RV-Archive.digest.vol-ty
March 03, 2009 - April 15, 2009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | RE:Builder's Insurance |
That's been my experience, Sam.
USAA suggested I attempt something anatomically impossible...not verbatim,
of course, but close enough.
Neal George
RV-7 N8ZG
Marty Helller wrote:
> You also might want to check if your home owner's policy would cover
> it. Mine did and I switched from a 'named brand' aviation insurer.
Interesting. Every time this subject has come up in the past (a bunch of
times in the last decade or so I've been watching) it has been stated
that homeowners insurers would not get near *anything* associated with
aviation.
Would you mind sharing how your project is listed on your homeowners
coverage?
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Dean <billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE:Builder's Insurance |
Sure----------------rite over thar!!!:)
________________________________
From: "eddyfernan(at)aol.com" <eddyfernan(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 3, 2009 10:34:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RE:Builder's Insurance
Peter,
I used Sky Smith Insurance for builders ins. and then changed over to liability
ins. with them also.
www.skysmith.com
Eddy Fernandez
RV9A
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Laurence <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org>
Sent: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 11:23 am
Subject: RV-List: RE:Builder's Insurance
Can anyone point to a company for builder's insurance?
Peter
RV9A
Fuse
________________________________
Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio
Toolbar!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | windsaloft(at)rmisp.com |
| Subject: | Please change my email address |
This windsaloft(at)rmisp.com account has been unreliable.
Please change your files to read
twatson(at)farallones.org (my work email) or
svdelphinus(at)gmail.com (my home email)
or both.
Thanks!
Terri
208-569-1108 cell
307-332-9233 land
call if you have questions!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE:Builder's Insurance |
Be carefull about homeowners insurance. Mine pays $.50 a pound, so for my
IO 360 which weights about 280 pounds, they will reimburse me for about
$140.00. Good deal is they also pay the same rate for firewood, trash, etc.
Bob
RV6
"Wicked Witch of the West"
>
> Marty Helller wrote:
>> You also might want to check if your home owner's policy would cover
>> it. Mine did and I switched from a 'named brand' aviation insurer.
>
> Interesting. Every time this subject has come up in the past (a bunch of
> times in the last decade or so I've been watching) it has been stated
> that homeowners insurers would not get near *anything* associated with
> aviation.
________________________________________________________________________________
Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead of Van's VIP mounts?
If so, Can you give me "good price" source?
Peter
RV9A
Fuse
--------
Peter Laurence
RV9A Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233206#233206
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
Call Jesse Robinson at AERO. He had the best price 6 months ago.
Bret Smith
RV-9A "FWF"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "plaurence" <plaurence@the-beach.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
> Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead of Van's VIP mounts?
> If so, Can you give me "good price" source?
>
> Peter
> RV9A
> Fuse
>
> --------
> Peter Laurence
> RV9A Fuse
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233206#233206
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
Hi Peter,
When I was looking in May '08, www.skygeek.com had the best price.
Regards,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
On Wed, 4 Mar 2009, plaurence wrote:
>
> Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead of Van's VIP mounts?
> If so, Can you give me "good price" source?
>
> Peter
> RV9A
> Fuse
>
> --------
> Peter Laurence
> RV9A Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233206#233206
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | TCW new product announcement |
Fellow RV builders,
Once again it is time for TCW Technologies to announce the availability
of a new product. We have designed a small control module called
SmartStart. It simplifies the installation and operation of push
button or control stick starting of the aircraft engine starter.
SmartStart provides an arming switch input and an interlock input and 1
minute timer during which a momentary switch may activate the engine
starter. The arming switch may be hidden to improve theft resistance
of the aircraft, the 1 minute timer helps prevent inadvertent starter
activation. The interlock switch may be coupled to a door or canopy
switch. SmartStart directly drives standard starter contactors and
is all electronic.
All the details are on our web site: www.tcwtech.com
Best regards,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org> |
Thanks Bret
FYI They are no longer stocking Lord Mounts. They are now carring Barry.
Peter Laurence
RV-9A Fuse/FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
Call Jesse Robinson at AERO. He had the best price 6 months ago.
Bret Smith
RV-9A "FWF"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "plaurence" <plaurence@the-beach.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
> Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead of Van's VIP mounts?
> If so, Can you give me "good price" source?
>
> Peter
> RV9A
> Fuse
>
> --------
> Peter Laurence
> RV9A Fuse
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=233206#233206
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
What is the difference in performance and cost?
(Brown truck is suppose to delivery the Van's mounts today...)
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Thu, Mar 5, 2009 at 9:34 AM, Peter Laurence wrote:
>
> Thanks Bret
>
> FYI They are no longer stocking Lord Mounts. They are now carring Barry.
> Peter Laurence
> RV-9A Fuse/FWF
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:43 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
>
> Call Jesse Robinson at AERO. He had the best price 6 months ago.
>
> Bret Smith
> RV-9A "FWF"
> Blue Ridge, GA
> www.FlightInnovations.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "plaurence" <plaurence@the-beach.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:00 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead of Van's VIP mounts?
> > If so, Can you give me "good price" source?
> >
> > Peter
> > RV9A
> > Fuse
> >
> > --------
> > Peter Laurence
> > RV9A Fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
Larry,
I can't say from experience yet but the Lord mounts are known for not
allowing engine sag. I think they cost around $140 apiece and don't
know how much the Barry mounts (Vans) cost.
Bret Smith
RV-9A "FWF"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
What is the difference in performance and cost?
(Brown truck is suppose to delivery the Van's mounts today...)
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Thu, Mar 5, 2009 at 9:34 AM, Peter Laurence
wrote:
Thanks Bret
FYI They are no longer stocking Lord Mounts. They are now carring
Barry.
Peter Laurence
RV-9A Fuse/FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:43 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
Call Jesse Robinson at AERO. He had the best price 6 months ago.
Bret Smith
RV-9A "FWF"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "plaurence" <plaurence@the-beach.net>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lord Mounts
<plaurence@the-beach.net>
>
> Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead of Van's VIP
mounts?
> If so, Can you give me "good price" source?
>
> Peter
> RV9A
> Fuse
>
> --------
> Peter Laurence
> RV9A Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I was also told that the Lord mounts would not sag as much as the Barry mou
nts from Van's. Now, ten years later, I can not see that the Barry mounts h
ave compressed beyond the oinriginal set after hanging the engine.
Perhaps the Lord mounts do a better job of isolating engine vibration.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Bret Smith
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
Larry,
I can't say from experience yet but the Lord mounts are known for not all
owing engine sag. I think they cost around $140 apiece and don't know how
much the Barry mounts (Vans) cost.
Bret Smith
RV-9A "FWF"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bowen
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 9:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
What is the difference in performance and cost?
(Brown truck is suppose to delivery the Van's mounts today...)
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Thu, Mar 5, 2009 at 9:34 AM, Peter Laurence w
rote:
>
Thanks Bret
FYI They are no longer stocking Lord Mounts. They are now carring Ba
rry.
Peter Laurence
RV-9A Fuse/FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:43 PM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
Call Jesse Robinson at AERO. He had the best price 6 months ago.
Bret Smith
RV-9A "FWF"
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "plaurence" <plaurence@the-beach.net>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
>
> Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead of Van's VIP mount
s?
> If so, Can you give me "good price" source?
>
> Peter
> RV9A
> Fuse
>
> --------
> Peter Laurence
> RV9A Fuse
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
Bret and listers,
Vans doesn't sell the Barry brand. They carry VIP, Vibration Isolation Products
brand.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Thu, 3/5/09, Bret Smith wrote:
> From: Bret Smith <smithhb(at)tds.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, March 5, 2009, 10:31 AM
> Larry,
>
> I can't say from experience yet but the Lord mounts are
> known for not allowing engine sag. I think they cost around
> $140 apiece and don't know how much the Barry mounts
> (Vans) cost.
>
> Bret Smith
> RV-9A "FWF"
> Blue Ridge, GA
> www.FlightInnovations.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Bowen
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 9:55 AM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
>
> What is the difference in performance and cost?
>
> (Brown truck is suppose to delivery the Van's mounts
> today...)
>
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 5, 2009 at 9:34 AM, Peter Laurence
> wrote:
>
> Laurence"
>
> Thanks Bret
>
> FYI They are no longer stocking Lord Mounts. They are
> now carring Barry.
> Peter Laurence
> RV-9A Fuse/FWF
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf
> Of Bret Smith
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:43 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
> Smith"
>
> Call Jesse Robinson at AERO. He had the best price 6
> months ago.
>
> Bret Smith
> RV-9A "FWF"
> Blue Ridge, GA
> www.FlightInnovations.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "plaurence"
> <plaurence@the-beach.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 3:00 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Lord Mounts
>
>
> "plaurence" <plaurence@the-beach.net>
> >
> > Has anyone recently installed lord mount instead
> of Van's VIP mounts?
> > If so, Can you give me "good price"
> source?
> >
> > Peter
> > RV9A
> > Fuse
> >
> > --------
> > Peter Laurence
> > RV9A Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | windsaloft(at)rmisp.com |
| Subject: | Terri away for a bit |
I'll be out of email contact until around 16 November. Will get to this email
at that time! Thanks
Terri
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <jmsj(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: i39, Richmond, Madison Flyin this Saturday |
I just checked the weather for our area for today and tomorrow. You can
expect winds of 15-25mph, per the latest report I've seen. Around here,
that means one should be prepared for winds gusts of over 30mph because
that's how our days are, lately. Right now, it's blowing 18-24; and, it's
just 7:30AM. I'm not trying to scare anyone off from the event because it's
a good one. I just want to alert you to the fact that you can expect some
turbulance in the area because we have knobs just south of I39 that can stir
it up, a bit. The terrain at the airport also drops off on the west side of
the field, which can promote some of the same. Just be prepared for some
rocking and rolling. Because I'm not as assertive in my flying as many of
you, and don't want to test my skills and insurance with winds over 30mph,
I'll probably drive over there, if I get to come. It's just an hour's drive
for me.
Have a great day! Tomorrow looks like it will be a good one.
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE:Builder's Insurance- USAA no longer covering |
One thing about this web blog=3B it forces one to do their homework.
- After the quizzing=2C I doubled check my paper.... and found no words to
that affect. So=2C I called USAA to ensure I had coverage.... they said yes
=2C it's right here in our notes...but that was a mistake on our part...you
r coverage is now cancelled...we'll connect you to Falcon Insurance....
...and back I will be (once they straighten out the huricane relocation req
't).
Marty
(Hadn't finished the RV-7 since Wednesday's email)
> From: panamared505(at)brier.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE:Builder's Insurance
> Date: Wed=2C 4 Mar 2009 04:54:38 -0800
>
>
> Be carefull about homeowners insurance. Mine pays $.50 a pound=2C so for
my
> IO 360 which weights about 280 pounds=2C they will reimburse me for about
> $140.00. Good deal is they also pay the same rate for firewood=2C trash
=2C etc.
>
> Bob
> RV6
> "Wicked Witch of the West"
> >
> > Marty Helller wrote:
> >> You also might want to check if your home owner's policy would cover
> >> it. Mine did and I switched from a 'named brand' aviation insurer.
> >
> > Interesting. Every time this subject has come up in the past (a bunch o
f
> > times in the last decade or so I've been watching) it has been stated
> > that homeowners insurers would not get near *anything* associated with
> > aviation.
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_03200
9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Sears" <jmsj(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: i39, Richmond, Madison Flyin this Saturday |
Last minute Weather Channel update still shows winds from the SSW at
15-25mph. Yesterday, I also heard a prediction for winds with gusting over
30mph from a local radio station. This would be more normal, given Weather
Channel's prediction.
The temps will be in the mid 70F range, though. Should be a nice day, other
than the wind. Be careful out there.
At DVK, which is about 28 miles west of I39, the wind was from 210 at 8kts
and clear below 12000 at 6:00AM.
I hope this helps.
Jim Sears in KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com> |
Folks, I have a 50X50 hangar for rent. Columbia SC area. Whiteplains
airpark, SC99. If anyone is interested please let me know. Would handle
3
RV's easily and probably 4. 47 foot Hydroswing door. Hangar 1.5 years o
ld.
Very nice airpark and hangar.......don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
-- Wilbur
Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Richmond FlyIn pictures |
I didn't take a lot of pictures but here they are
http://picasaweb.google.com/bobbyhesterKY/RichmondFlyInPictures09#
--
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009JanJulyFlying.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
Does anyone on this list collect airplane stamps? I have two perfect
condition 20 stamp sheets of 32 cent "Classic American Aircraft" stamps
issued in 1996. They were in my 91 year old mother's desk.
Before I tear them apart to send in bill payments using 11 cents more of
makeup stamps, are there any stamp collectors out there who would cry if
I did so?
Pete Cowper
RV8 #81139
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Don't do it Pete, don't do it....just lay the stamps down and back away.
Seriously, I don't collect stamps but if noboby is interested...and somebody HAS
TO BE, I'll buy them for the 42 cents of the current postage just as a novelty
item.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pete Cowper
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 5:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Airplane Stamps
Does anyone on this list collect airplane stamps? I have two perfect
condition 20 stamp sheets of 32 cent "Classic American Aircraft" stamps
issued in 1996. They were in my 91 year old mother's desk.
Before I tear them apart to send in bill payments using 11 cents more of
makeup stamps, are there any stamp collectors out there who would cry if
I did so?
Pete Cowper
RV8 #81139
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airplane Stamps |
Pete, My wife is a collector and while her catalog is a couple of years old,
it shows the value of the full sheet was $12 a few years ago, and probably
more like $15 or so now. I have a framed sheet of those hanging in my
hangar. It would be a shame to tear the sheet up...some collector would be
glad to have them.;
\
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Cowper" <pcowper(at)webtv.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Airplane Stamps
>
> Does anyone on this list collect airplane stamps? I have two perfect
> condition 20 stamp sheets of 32 cent "Classic American Aircraft" stamps
> issued in 1996. They were in my 91 year old mother's desk.
>
> Before I tear them apart to send in bill payments using 11 cents more of
> makeup stamps, are there any stamp collectors out there who would cry if
> I did so?
>
> Pete Cowper
> RV8 #81139
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airplane Stamps |
| From: | "Larry Bowen" <Larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Though not an official stamp collector, I like the framing idea. Pete, I would
give you fair value for them. What is your price?
Larry
------Original Message------
From: John Fasching
Sender: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Airplane Stamps
Sent: Mar 8, 2009 18:53
Pete, My wife is a collector and while her catalog is a couple of years old,
it shows the value of the full sheet was $12 a few years ago, and probably
more like $15 or so now. I have a framed sheet of those hanging in my
hangar. It would be a shame to tear the sheet up...some collector would be
glad to have them.;
\
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Cowper" <pcowper(at)webtv.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Airplane Stamps
>
> Does anyone on this list collect airplane stamps? I have two perfect
> condition 20 stamp sheets of 32 cent "Classic American Aircraft" stamps
> issued in 1996. They were in my 91 year old mother's desk.
>
> Before I tear them apart to send in bill payments using 11 cents more of
> makeup stamps, are there any stamp collectors out there who would cry if
> I did so?
>
> Pete Cowper
> RV8 #81139
>
>
>
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airplane Stamps |
I will take one of the sheets for whatever the reasonable market value
is. Or face value if you want to sell them for that ;-) .
Dick Tasker
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
> Does anyone on this list collect airplane stamps? I have two perfect
> condition 20 stamp sheets of 32 cent "Classic American Aircraft" stamps
> issued in 1996. They were in my 91 year old mother's desk.
>
> Before I tear them apart to send in bill payments using 11 cents more of
> makeup stamps, are there any stamp collectors out there who would cry if
> I did so?
>
> Pete Cowper
> RV8 #81139
>
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Hanger in Nashville Area |
Folkes, I have a 42'Wx34'Dx12'bi-fold door for rent in the Nashvville Area.
MQY- Smyrna TN. If interestered, overnight or otherwise, please contact me
directly. Hanger is insulated, has electric and water service.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV6A finishing.
Subject: RV-List: Hangar for rent
From: Donald Nowakowski <nowakod(at)us.ibm.com>
Folks, I have a 50X50 hangar for rent. Columbia SC area. Whiteplains
airpark, SC99. If anyone is interested please let me know. Would handle 3
RV's easily and probably 4. 47 foot Hydroswing door. Hangar 1.5 years o ld.
Very nice airpark and hangar.......don
Don Nowakowski , Equipment Engineering Tech
Telephone (802)288-3359,
"More than anything else the sensation
is one of perfect peace mingled with
an excitement that strains every nerve
to the utmost, if you can conceive of such
a combination."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pilot certificate with English proficiency statement needed to |
fly abroad
| From: | jhnstniii(at)aol.com |
Listers--I just got back from?flight instructor refresher?training and we were?informed
that in order to use your US pilot certificate abroad, you need the new
kind with the?statement on it that you are proficient in English.? We were
advised that we have until the end of March 2009 to get on the FAA web site and
order a replacement certificate with this language on it. The cost is two dollars
($2.00),?payable by credit card.? I just did it.? In case you are interested,
here's how you do it:???
Go to www.faa.gov
Click on:
Licenses and certificates.
Airmen certification.
Order a replacement certificate.
Enter your info and register if you don't already have an account.
Assuming you're establishing your account for the first time, go to your e-mail
account and?retrieve your new password.?
Click on the link to go back to the FAA site.??
Log in to airmen services using your new password.
Put as your reason for ordering a replacement certificate: "English proficiency."
Go through the credit card payment screens and pay.
Wait for your replacement certificate (it will be the plastic kind) to arrive in
the mail, they say in two weeks.
?
Hope this is useful to you.?
You will need this to fly?in Canada, for example.? Not sure what you do after the
end of this month if you don't do this before then and you want to fly to Canada,
or Mexico etc.??
?
--LeRoy Johnston? N176LD RV-6A "Esperanza" 130+ hours flying (Ohio)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator - Elev Trim Tab Skin (E-619) and Elev Counterbalance |
Skin (E-713)
Greetings:
Ref: RV-8A (RV-7 is the same = Drawing 4)
Looked on Matronics, but found no answers to these questions
Question 1:
When building the Elev Trim Tab Skin it says: 1) bend the Skin with the wooden
brake, 2) bend the 2 metal "tabs" that are at each end, 3) match drill the Trim
Tab Horns (E-717 and E-718) to the Skin. So far no problem, BUT now how do
you then dimple the Skin where the E-718 (INBOARD Trim Tab Horn) goes as the 2
rivets for it are approx 1/8" from the bent Skin Tab ????? One of the 2 rivets
is also near the bent trailing edge which makes it impossible to get at.
Question 2:
Instructions say to "bevel the inboard and aft edges of the Counterbalance Skin
(E-713) locally where the Counterbalance Skin overlaps the (Elev) Spar and Rib
flanges to provide a smooth transition between the Counterbalance Skin and the
Elevator Skin." This does not make sense. I can see "beveling" the Elev Skin
"at the point" where the Counterbalance Skin goes UNDER the Elev Skin to make
a smooth transition. Am I missing something ???
Appreciate your help,
Garey Wittich RV-8A Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator - Elev Trim Tab Skin (E-619) and Elev Counterbalance |
Skin (E-713)
To your first question. Some of the holes need to be dimpled with a
pop-rivet dimple die set. If you bent the tabs so they are flush with
the edge of the unbent skin, there is adequate space for the dimple die.
Just did mine a few weeks ago. You are lucky you only have one to
do...the 10 has two trim tabs, that are interchangeable with the single
tab on the 9.
Kelly
RV-10
Tail cone
Garey Wittich wrote:
>
>
> Greetings:
>
> Ref: RV-8A (RV-7 is the same = Drawing 4)
>
> Looked on Matronics, but found no answers to these questions
>
> Question 1:
> When building the Elev Trim Tab Skin it says: 1) bend the Skin with the wooden
brake, 2) bend the 2 metal "tabs" that are at each end, 3) match drill the Trim
Tab Horns (E-717 and E-718) to the Skin. So far no problem, BUT now how do
you then dimple the Skin where the E-718 (INBOARD Trim Tab Horn) goes as the
2 rivets for it are approx 1/8" from the bent Skin Tab ????? One of the 2 rivets
is also near the bent trailing edge which makes it impossible to get at.
>
> Question 2:
> Instructions say to "bevel the inboard and aft edges of the Counterbalance Skin
(E-713) locally where the Counterbalance Skin overlaps the (Elev) Spar and
Rib flanges to provide a smooth transition between the Counterbalance Skin and
the Elevator Skin." This does not make sense. I can see "beveling" the Elev
Skin "at the point" where the Counterbalance Skin goes UNDER the Elev Skin to
make a smooth transition. Am I missing something ???
>
> Appreciate your help,
>
> Garey Wittich RV-8A Santa Monica, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator - Elev Trim Tab Skin (E-619) and Elev Counterbalance |
Skin (E-713)
| From: | Greg Green <gpgreen(at)gmail.com> |
Question 2: the bevel provides a ramp that the elevator skin will sit on so
there isn't a step. When the rivets are in the elevator skin will get sucked
down on to the ramp. The ramp only needs to be above the spar and the rib.
You are right that the ramp could be in the elevator skin instead, but the
counterbalance skin is where I put the ramp as the instructions say.
I looked through my pictures hoping I had one of the bevel, but no luck. You
can't really see it after it is put together. It is the same situation on
the rudder with it's counterbalance skin.
I just did the rivets on the trim tab horn a few weeks ago. Don't remember
having any trouble. I used the hand squeezer.
On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 9:21 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> To your first question. Some of the holes need to be dimpled with a
> pop-rivet dimple die set. If you bent the tabs so they are flush with the
> edge of the unbent skin, there is adequate space for the dimple die. Just
> did mine a few weeks ago. You are lucky you only have one to do...the 10 has
> two trim tabs, that are interchangeable with the single tab on the 9.
> Kelly
> RV-10
> Tail cone
>
>
> Garey Wittich wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Greetings:
>>
>> Ref: RV-8A (RV-7 is the same = Drawing 4)
>>
>> Looked on Matronics, but found no answers to these questions
>>
>> Question 1:
>> When building the Elev Trim Tab Skin it says: 1) bend the Skin with the
>> wooden brake, 2) bend the 2 metal "tabs" that are at each end, 3) match
>> drill the Trim Tab Horns (E-717 and E-718) to the Skin. So far no problem,
>> BUT now how do you then dimple the Skin where the E-718 (INBOARD Trim Tab
>> Horn) goes as the 2 rivets for it are approx 1/8" from the bent Skin Tab
>> ????? One of the 2 rivets is also near the bent trailing edge which makes
>> it impossible to get at.
>>
>> Question 2:
>> Instructions say to "bevel the inboard and aft edges of the Counterbalance
>> Skin (E-713) locally where the Counterbalance Skin overlaps the (Elev) Spar
>> and Rib flanges to provide a smooth transition between the Counterbalance
>> Skin and the Elevator Skin." This does not make sense. I can see
>> "beveling" the Elev Skin "at the point" where the Counterbalance Skin goes
>> UNDER the Elev Skin to make a smooth transition. Am I missing something
>> ???
>>
>> Appreciate your help,
>>
>> Garey Wittich RV-8A Santa Monica, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
>
>
--
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mauri" <maurv8(at)compuplus.net> |
| Subject: | Collins VHF comm |
Dose anyone have a wiring diagram for a Collins 251-VHF comm.?
Mauri Morin
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. J. Mendes Pereira" <mendper(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Collins VHF comm |
I have this Pinout sheet, if it's any help...
Ant=BA
----- Original Message -----
From: Mauri
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 11:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: Collins VHF comm
Dose anyone have a wiring diagram for a Collins 251-VHF comm.?
Mauri Morin
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: Airplane Stamps |
I am sending a sheet of the Classic Airplane Stamps to the first two who
replied to me, Chuck and Neal.
Thanks for the poster who confirmed that they are probably only valued
at $15 or so, since I didn't really want anything but appreciative homes
for them . . . but can rest easily knowing they won't get flogged on
e-bay.
Pete Cowper
RV8 #81139 (mounting tail to fuselage)
Visalia, California
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
I have a Valcom Radio for sale. Includes wire harness and tray.
Asking $450, OBO.
Please e-mail me off list at Johnd(at)wlcwyo.com
John L. Danielson
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8 with Grove Brake Reservoirs question |
| From: | "rv8builder" <rv8builder(at)earthlink.net> |
I have a RV-8 under construction and have installed the Grove brake reservoir on
each brake master cylinder. It should be noted that I have the 'In-Flight'
adjustable rudder pedals. With the pedals at the full forward position, the brake
reservoirs do hit the firewall when the pedals are deflected. Has anyone
come up with a way to mount the Grove reservoirs in this situation with out the
reservoir hitting the firewall? Or do I have to just bit the bullet and install
the leaky nylon tubing!
Thanks in advance,
Dale
--------
Dale
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=234561#234561
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 with Grove Brake Reservoirs question |
At 12:07 PM 3/14/2009 Saturday, rv8builder wrote:
>
>I have a RV-8 under construction and have installed the Grove brake reservoir
on each brake master cylinder. It should be noted that I have the 'In-Flight'
adjustable rudder pedals. With the pedals at the full forward position, the
brake reservoirs do hit the firewall when the pedals are deflected. Has anyone
come up with a way to mount the Grove reservoirs in this situation with out
the reservoir hitting the firewall? Or do I have to just bit the bullet and install
the leaky nylon tubing!
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Dale
>
>--------
>Dale
Hey Dale,
I grappled with the same issues. Here's what I ended up doing. It think its going
to work out pretty well.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67091&row=69
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67025&row=46
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=2973&log=67026&row=45
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res)
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Lind <davelind(at)frontiernet.net> |
Anyone with a flying RV-3 near Quincy, Ca? (ID 2O1, Plumas County).
Please call Dave at (530) 284-1433
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump |
Do you mean fuel SELECTOR?
Ron Lee
>
> My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
> with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump |
bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
> with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
>
> I hate to think I have to buy a new one... does any one know a way to
> loosing it up? Oil? I see posting for new pums, they call the
> Alder I believe... the price too much for me..
>
> Then what happen, you have to change all the lines, or it would be
> same as the one from Van's? I do not want to have to
> change anything on the fuel lines...
>
> Suggtestions or info., will be appreciate it....lMaybe the best is to
> buy one again from Van's no? it did not last four years.....
>
>
> Bert
>
If you mean the fuel selector, & you don't want to switch to the new
nylon core version, try adding some 'fuel lube' or the currently
available replacement for it.
You might find that if you pull the core from the one you have, there
will be enough fuel lube left in the valve (below the actual tapered
surfaces) to re-coat the tapered portion. It doesn't take much.
I don't know if this would work for a -6A, but on my -4 I discovered
that with less than 1/2 fuel in the tanks I could remove the valve core
without draining the tanks.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump |
If you're referring to the fuel selector valve:
Buy a new one from Van's for $48.- There have been some RV accidents caus
ed by the old style valves seizing up mid-position, or the selector handle
stripping free because of the stiffness in the valve.- I recall that in a
t least one of these accidents, the owner was well aware of the fact that t
he valve had become tight over time, yet continued to fly the plane.- DON
'T MESS AROUND!!! GROUND THE PLANE UNTIL YOU REPLACE THE VALVE.- IT'S NOT
WORTH THE RISK!!!
Skylor
RV-8 Under Construction
--- On Sat, 3/14/09, Charlie England wrote:
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: on Fuel Pump
Date: Saturday, March 14, 2009, 9:03 PM
bert murillo wrote:
>
> Hi:
>
> My fuel pump is getting harder to turn.. Have the original that came
> with the kit from Van's, for my rv6a.
>
> I hate to think I have to buy a new one... does any one know a way to
> loosing it up? Oil? I see posting for new pums, they call the
> Alder I believe... the price too much for me..
>
> Then what happen, you have to change all the lines, or it would be
> same as the one from Van's? I do not want to have to
> change anything on the fuel lines...
>
> Suggtestions or info., will be appreciate it....lMaybe the best is to
> buy one again from Van's no? it did not last four years.....
>
>
> Bert
>
If you mean the fuel selector, & you don't want to switch to the new
nylon core version, try adding some 'fuel lube' or the currently
available replacement for it.
You might find that if you pull the core from the one you have, there
will be enough fuel lube left in the valve (below the actual tapered
surfaces) to re-coat the tapered portion. It doesn't take much.
I don't know if this would work for a -6A, but on my -4 I discovered
that with less than 1/2 fuel in the tanks I could remove the valve core
without draining the tanks.
Charlie
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
I agree with Denis. I had the old valve. Every year I had to do the "lube
maintenance" on it with the 'Fuel Proof' grease (available from Aircraft Spruce.
1 can will last you 2000 years). Last year I did some major airframe updates
and the Van's valve was one of them. Cheap, excellent fix.
Jim
**************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a
recession.
(http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
| From: | mr.gsun(at)gmail.com |
How do I tell which valve is in my 2003 RV7?
On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 4:14 AM, wrote:
> I agree with Denis. I had the old valve. Every year I had to do the "lube
> maintenance" on it with the 'Fuel Proof' grease (available from Aircraft
> Spruce. 1 can will last you 2000 years). Last year I did some major airframe
> updates and the Van's valve was one of them. Cheap, excellent fix.
>
> Jim
>
> ------------------------------
> Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession<http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002>
> .
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
I made my first flight in my RV-6 back in 1997 and had upgraded to the new
valve before I flew. Van started shipping the new nylon cone valve in all
new kits before I made my first flight.
I remember upgrading to the new nylon cone valve after this 1993 fatal acci
dent before I made my first flight.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X13868&key=1
The valve was not the cause of the accident but I knew the pilot / builder.
>From the NTSB report:
Examination of the fuel selector revealed that it was not fire damaged.
The selector handle was noted to be broken and in transit between the
right fuel tank and the engine feed line.
The OLD valve did not have a POSITIVE DETENT when moving between positions.
The NEW NYLON cone valve does have positive detent in each position. If y
our valve shipped with the kit has a positive detent=2C it is the nylon con
e. If it does not have a positive detent=2C then it is the old brass cone v
alve. If you do not know what a postive detent feels like=2C take the valv
e apart and inspect the cone. The brass cone is brass colored. The nylon co
ne is white colored.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C201+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
Date: Sun=2C 15 Mar 2009 07:51:27 -0800
Subject: Re: RV-List: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?)
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com
How do I tell which valve is in my 2003 RV7?
On Sun=2C Mar 15=2C 2009 at 4:14 AM=2C wrote:
I agree with Denis. I had the old valve. Every year I had to do the "lube
maintenance" on it with the 'Fuel Proof' grease (available from Aircraft Sp
ruce.
1 can will last you 2000 years). Last year I did some major airframe update
s and
the Van's valve was one of them. Cheap=2C excellent fix.
Jim
Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99 Groups: Create an online spot for your favorite groups to m
eet.
http://windowslive.com/online/groups?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_groups_032009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
I may have one of those newer valves I never used. I know where it is and I
will inspect it. If the one I have is the newer one, you are welcome to it.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 11:47 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?)
I made my first flight in my RV-6 back in 1997 and had upgraded to the new
valve before I flew. Van started shipping the new nylon cone valve in all
new kits before I made my first flight.
I remember upgrading to the new nylon cone valve after this 1993 fatal
accident before I made my first flight.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001211X13868&key=1
The valve was not the cause of the accident but I knew the pilot / builder.
>From the NTSB report:
Examination of the fuel selector revealed that it was not fire damaged. The
selector handle was noted to be broken and in transit between the right fuel
tank and the engine feed line.
The OLD valve did not have a POSITIVE DETENT when moving between positions.
The NEW NYLON cone valve does have positive detent in each position. If
your valve shipped with the kit has a positive detent, it is the nylon cone.
If it does not have a positive detent, then it is the old brass cone valve.
If you do not know what a postive detent feels like, take the valve apart
and inspect the cone. The brass cone is brass colored. The nylon cone is
white colored.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,201+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
_____
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 07:51:27 -0800
Subject: Re: RV-List: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?)
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com
How do I tell which valve is in my 2003 RV7?
On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 4:14 AM, wrote:
I agree with Denis. I had the old valve. Every year I had to do the "lube
maintenance" on it with the 'Fuel Proof' grease (available from Aircraft
Spruce. 1 can will last you 2000 years). Last year I did some major airframe
updates and the Van's valve was one of them. Cheap, excellent fix.
Jim
_____
Worried about job security? Check
<http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare0000000
2> out the 5 safest jobs in a recession.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Esten Spears" <ewspears(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?=22We_Love_RV's=22_Invitational_Luncheon_April_18th_2009_a?= |
=?iso-8859-1?Q?t_Leeward_Air_Ranch?
The Leeward Air Ranch RVators are having their Annual "We Love RV's"
Invitational Luncheon April 18th at Leeward Air Ranch, (FD04), near
Ocala, FL. April 18th is the weekend before Sun n Fun. We expect a lot
of out of state RV's since we are only 67NM North of Lakeland (LAL). We
are tentatively setting the 19th as a rain date.
This gathering is by invitation only. If you think you can make it,
Please email:RVators(at)Gmail.com with your name and number of people that
will attend with you (wife, kids, or friends), what RV or other plane
you will be arriving in, or note if driving (car/motorcycle).
We will email you back with an Invitation including flying, driving, and
Event Information.
Please inform any other RV Enthusiasts you know about our Gathering and
have them email us with the info requested for their personal invitation
(name added to invitee list).
The many RVators at Leeward Air Ranch hope you can make it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pcowper(at)webtv.net (Pete Cowper) |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
Periodic lubrication of the fuel selector valve appears to be necessary
to prevent failure. Using an improper grease can still allow corrosion
to cause the selector valve to fail..
An example is the John Denver crash. The fuel selector valve in John
Denver's Long-Eze failed leaving him unable to switch to his other tank
which had about 45 minutes of remaining fuel. During post-crash NTSB
testing the valve flowed fine from the empty tank but would not flow
from the other tank with the remaining fuel where the valve was pointed.
Before his last flight a witness who worked the fuel truck at the
Monterey FBO watched him starting his engine. It cranked first without
starting, then John Denver reached around to the bulkhead behind his
shoulder and turned the fuel selector valve and resumed cranking and the
engine caught. He intended to do practice touch and goes and purposely
did not want full tanks. When one tank ran out he tried to switch tanks
and being unsuccessful in restarting the engine he unfortunately did not
quit troubleshooting and "fly the airplane."
The valve used in John Denver's plane had failed hundreds of times in
other planes over the years due to improper maintenance. Expert A&P
witnesses confirmed that no instruction on proper lubricants had ever
been issued. The company agreed to belatedly send out a maintenance
notice specifying the proper type of lubricant to service their fuel
selector valve as part of their settlement with the Denver family. Be
sure to confirm what lubricant should be used on your particular fuel
selector valve.
Checking both tank levels before flight doesn't help if you can't get to
he fuel. A lesson learned is to switch tanks before running one tank so
low you don't have enough fuel to make it to the next airport with fuel
if you can't get to your fuller tank.
Pete Cowper
RV8 #81139
Lawyer-Pilots Bar Association Member
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
>Periodic lubrication of the fuel selector valve appears to be necessary
>to prevent failure. Using an improper grease can still allow corrosion
>to cause the selector valve to fail..
>
>An example is the John Denver crash. The fuel selector valve in John
>Denver's Long-Eze failed leaving him unable to switch to his other tank
>which had about 45 minutes of remaining fuel.
>
I do not believe you are stating all of the fact sir, while the
investgators could not move the valve after the crash
it was not a failed valve that caused the crash. It was Mr Denvers
inability to reach the valve at the location
where it was mounted that caused the crash, even when he added vice
grips to the valve he still could not reach
without physically turning his body which in turn caused aggresive
control inputs. It was testified that the valve worked
although stiff with good dentents before the crash.
To blindly blame the valve I guess is a lawyer tactic.
Jerry
PROBABLE CAUSE
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause
of this accident was the pilot's diversion of attention from the
operation of the airplane and his inadvertent application of right
rudder that resulted in the loss of airplane control while attempting to
manipulate the fuel selector handle. Also, the Board determines that the
pilot's inadequate preflight planning and preparations, specifically his
failure to refuel the airplane, was causal. The Board determines that
the builder's decision to locate the unmarked fuel selector handle in a
hard-to-access position, unmarked fuel quantity sight gauges, inadequate
transition training by the pilot, and his lack of total experience in
this type of airplane were factors in this acccident.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
| From: | John Cox <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Thanks Jerry. I too took exception to the inference of a stuck valve rather
than the facts as I had read them years ago. It is a good thing to review
builder planning and sound maintenance practices.
Facts should always win out over speculation and inference. Nice work.
John Cox
From: Jerry Springer
Sent: Mon 3/16/2009 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?)
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
>Periodic lubrication of the fuel selector valve appears to be necessary
>to prevent failure. Using an improper grease can still allow corrosion
>to cause the selector valve to fail..
>
>An example is the John Denver crash. The fuel selector valve in John
>Denver's Long-Eze failed leaving him unable to switch to his other tank
>which had about 45 minutes of remaining fuel.
>
I do not believe you are stating all of the fact sir, while the
investgators could not move the valve after the crash
it was not a failed valve that caused the crash. It was Mr Denvers
inability to reach the valve at the location
where it was mounted that caused the crash, even when he added vice
grips to the valve he still could not reach
without physically turning his body which in turn caused aggresive
control inputs. It was testified that the valve worked
although stiff with good dentents before the crash.
To blindly blame the valve I guess is a lawyer tactic.
Jerry
PROBABLE CAUSE
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause
of this accident was the pilot's diversion of attention from the
operation of the airplane and his inadvertent application of right
rudder that resulted in the loss of airplane control while attempting to
manipulate the fuel selector handle. Also, the Board determines that the
pilot's inadequate preflight planning and preparations, specifically his
failure to refuel the airplane, was causal. The Board determines that
the builder's decision to locate the unmarked fuel selector handle in a
hard-to-access position, unmarked fuel quantity sight gauges, inadequate
transition training by the pilot, and his lack of total experience in
this type of airplane were factors in this acccident.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
So what is the proper maintenance procedure and grease for these fuel
valves?
If you say "grease it" be clearer. Do you have to physically remove the
rotating
part?
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
All, I have a friend who is building a Rocket with a sliding canopy and is in need
of a metal shrinker. If anyone has a shrinker they want to sell, rent or loan,
please contact Greg Stone at: gvstone(at)embarqmail.com
Walt Shipley RV8A, RV8 (sold)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
Just as a side note: I have used Van's Brass ball selector for over 10
years. There is no question it can be very stiff to operate - even at best.
I have noticed that if I fly with 100 LL the valve operates nicely and
without excessive force required. However, if I fly with a tank or two of
automobile gasoline, the valve will become very hard to rotate.
I suspect that the lubricating quality of the lead in the 100LL may help it
turn easier and of course after a couple of tanks of no-lead auto gasoline
the lead is washed off the brass ball.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
http://www.andersonee.com
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
http://www.flyrotary.com/
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Springer
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?)
Pete Cowper wrote:
>
>Periodic lubrication of the fuel selector valve appears to be necessary
>to prevent failure. Using an improper grease can still allow corrosion
>to cause the selector valve to fail..
>
>An example is the John Denver crash. The fuel selector valve in John
>Denver's Long-Eze failed leaving him unable to switch to his other tank
>which had about 45 minutes of remaining fuel.
>
I do not believe you are stating all of the fact sir, while the
investgators could not move the valve after the crash
it was not a failed valve that caused the crash. It was Mr Denvers
inability to reach the valve at the location
where it was mounted that caused the crash, even when he added vice
grips to the valve he still could not reach
without physically turning his body which in turn caused aggresive
control inputs. It was testified that the valve worked
although stiff with good dentents before the crash.
To blindly blame the valve I guess is a lawyer tactic.
Jerry
PROBABLE CAUSE
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause
of this accident was the pilot's diversion of attention from the
operation of the airplane and his inadvertent application of right
rudder that resulted in the loss of airplane control while attempting to
manipulate the fuel selector handle. Also, the Board determines that the
pilot's inadequate preflight planning and preparations, specifically his
failure to refuel the airplane, was causal. The Board determines that
the builder's decision to locate the unmarked fuel selector handle in a
hard-to-access position, unmarked fuel quantity sight gauges, inadequate
transition training by the pilot, and his lack of total experience in
this type of airplane were factors in this acccident.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3267 (20080714) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3267 (20080714) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A project for sale, Seattle |
RV-8A project, $75,000
Terry Watson
19537 - 55th Avenue NE
Lake Forest Park, WA 98155
(206) 365-2657
RV-8A #80729 slow build project near Seattle; 2500 hours and over $95,000
invested over 11 years. Estimate 90% plus complete
. Tail complete, fitted to fuselage & removed for storage
. Wings complete except bottom skins and wingtips
. Fuselage complete except as noted below
. Engine installed, electrical in progress
Engine: New Aero Sport Power IO-360-B1B
. 1 Lightspeed Plasma II ignition installed on right side
. 1 Slick mag installed on left side
. Airflow performance fuel injection installed
. Engine installed on airframe with plumbing, baffles, engine & prop
controls complete
. Oil cooler with louvered air control installed
. Custom louvered alternate air source installed in filtered air box
Controls
. Rear seat throttle & rudder pedals installed
. Front seat Infinity stick grip on custom shortened and bent stick
installed
. Alternate air, oil filter air flow, and fuel cut-off controls
installed
. Throttle, mixture, and prop controls installed
. Cabin heat & control installed
. Electric trim & flaps installed
. Deluxe throttle quadrant installed
. Ground adjustable front rudder pedals installed
. Andair fuel valve installed
Propeller
. New Whirlwind 200RV still in shipping crate
. Prop control servo, oil line & controls installed
Avionics & Instruments
. Blue Mountain Avionics EFIS/one with remote keypad with
magnetometer, GPS antenna, & engine sensors installed
Approach Systems Pro G rev. C avionics hub installed
. TruTrak Pictorial Pilot wing leveler autopilot; servo installed
. Treo Avionics EZ series altitude control autopilot; servo installed
. Garmin 340 comm panel still in box
. 2.25" airspeed with RV-8 markings
. 2.25" backup altimeter
. 2.25" Vertical Velocity Indicator
. Trim indicators
. AoA Sport angle of attack, custom mount on top of panel
. Fuel low level warning system partially installed
. Hinged instrument panel to allow access behind panel (final panel
not yet cut)
Wings
. Complete except bottom skin & wing tips
. Landing and taxi lights installed
. Capacitive sensors in fuel tanks
. Flop tube in right tank; standard pickup left tank
. Heated pitot tube
. Angle of Attack sensors installed
. Old style wing tips not yet installed
. Wing root mounted Andair gascolator/filter installed
. Wings have not been fit to fuselage
Fuselage
. Complete except front top skin left off for wiring so baggage door
has not been started
. Front top skin fitted to fuselage and has avionics access ports each
side between panel and baggage compartment bulkhead. Access also provided
through baggage compartment bulkhead
. Canopy complete with Sikaflex & rivets. Skirts and latch complete;
windscreen not installed
. Cowl fitted with hinge pins on sides, twist lock fittings at
firewall
Interior
. No seats or upholstery, except aluminum supports
. Rear floorboards fitted but not riveted
. Front & rear baggage compartments complete
. Hooker harnesses not yet installed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
One O-360-A4M for sale, as removed from a 1979 Piper Archer.
1880 since major overhaul, 4007 total time.
Carb, starter, fuel pump, mags, and harness included.
Removed for high time and 50/70 compression on one cylinder, leaking from
the exhaust valve.
All logs since new. No damage history. No prop strike.
It's currently on the airplane and can be run but, will be removed in the
next few days for replacement.
Asking $6750/Best Offer. FOB Watsonville, CA
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
Ron Lee wrote:
> So what is the proper maintenance procedure and grease for these fuel
> valves?
>
> If you say "grease it" be clearer. Do you have to physically remove
> the rotating
> part?
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
Short answer: yes.
I can't address 'proper maintenance procedure', but when mine started to
get tight enough to worry me, I removed the 'core' (rotating part) &
found a match head sized bit of the lubricant still on the bottom of the
core between the taper & the threads. I spread it on the taper, placed
the core back in the housing & rotated it a few times to spread the
lubricant, & reassembled the valve.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | KC - Prescott, AZ |
| From: | David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
Heading to Prescott, AZ next month from KC. Anyone have any suggetions
about a nice place to stop for fuel etc. somewhere around ABQ? The proposed
route looks like it goes South West towards Wichita then West towards ABQ
and on into Prescott. Any of you that may live in the NM area have any
suggestions?
Thanks...
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KC - Prescott, AZ |
St. John's, Az.. 1 hr. s. west of ABQ.. in flight path to
Prescott...Cheapest fuel... Loaner car to go into small town for food...
Sheldon RV6A
----- Original Message -----
From: David Schaefer
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 7:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: KC - Prescott, AZ
Heading to Prescott, AZ next month from KC. Anyone have any
suggetions about a nice place to stop for fuel etc. somewhere around
ABQ? The proposed route looks like it goes South West towards Wichita
then West towards ABQ and on into Prescott. Any of you that may live in
the NM area have any suggestions?
Thanks...
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: on Fuel Pump (fuel selector valve?) |
With auto fuel I use Marvel Mystery Oil, no problems turing the selector.
Bob
RV6 'Wicked Witch of the West
>
> I suspect that the lubricating quality of the lead in the 100LL may help
> it
> turn easier and of course after a couple of tanks of no-lead auto gasoline
> the lead is washed off the brass ball.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Composite Class for RV-10s May 9-10 2009 |
AirCrafters will be holding our "Composites for RV-10s" class again May 9 &
10 (Saturday and Sunday), 2009.
More information is available here:
http://www.aircraftersllc.com/seminars.htm
We will cover all of the composite parts, including the fitting of a cabin
top. The class consists of equal parts lecture and hands-on work. Wear old
clothes!
Although the cabin top and doors are specific to RV-10s, the class is a good
primer for any aircraft-related composite work.
Please email or call if you would like us to fit your top during the
class--no charge!
(This will be our fifth top fitting)
Again, rides will be available in our RV-10, weather permitting.
Class size is limited to 15 builders. Cost is $350. We get a lot of very
positive feedback, so sign up early!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
My 6 is finally out of the fuse jig! If anyone still needs a good laminated
plywood jig for free, please email me off list. I'm at LL10, Naperville,
IL. (Chicago area).
Stewart Willoughby StooDDS(at)aol.com
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or
less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 8MB cards for GX60 |
I had the opportunity to pick up an 8MB card which is supposed to be
compatible with my GX60. It is originally designed (like the 4MB cards) to
work in a Cisco router.
My Jeppesen skybound adapter won't recognize it. Any suggestions?
I'll probably call Jeppesen Tech support in the AM. I already know that the
card works with my GX60 as I have put an older database on it, plugged it
in, passed the diagnostics, and flown successfully.
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 7.5 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 8MB cards for GX60 |
How did you get an OLDER database on the card without using the Jeppesen Sk
ybound adapter?
Yes the original 2 Meg cards will not hold the data required on the new upd
ates but the 4 Meg cards for the Cisco Router will.
I have used about a half-dozen different 4-Meg cards without problem. This
is the first time that I have heard of anyone using an 8-Meg card.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C201+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
> Date: Sun=2C 22 Mar 2009 08:34:56 -0400
>
>
> I had the opportunity to pick up an 8MB card which is supposed to be
> compatible with my GX60. It is originally designed (like the 4MB cards)
to
> work in a Cisco router.
>
> My Jeppesen skybound adapter won't recognize it. Any suggestions?
> I'll probably call Jeppesen Tech support in the AM. I already know that
the
> card works with my GX60 as I have put an older database on it=2C plugged
it
> in=2C passed the diagnostics=2C and flown successfully.
>
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 7.5 hrs
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_03200
9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8MB cards for GX60 |
I have an OmniDrive flash card reader that came with software to create
an 'image' of the card which can be written to another card.
This allows me to carry a backup and the last cycles databases with me
in the event of something that I don't understand about these kind of
devices.......
I remember reading (somewhere and I wish I could find it) that the GX60
is advertised to support 2, 4, and 8 MB cards and I know it will read
the 8MB card with the 4MB image on it without any issues. The skybound
adapter seems to be my limitation right now as it will not acknowledge
the presence of the 8MB card.
Really not an issue as the current database uses just a bit more than
the space on the original 2MB card - we shouldn't need to upgrade to an
8MB card for a good long while....
Just trying to figure out if anyone's already done it (maybe that's
where I read it....here!......ya ya that's the ticket).
----- Original Message -----
From: RV6 Flyer
To: RV List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
How did you get an OLDER database on the card without using the
Jeppesen Skybound adapter?
Yes the original 2 Meg cards will not hold the data required on the
new updates but the 4 Meg cards for the Cisco Router will.
I have used about a half-dozen different 4-Meg cards without problem.
This is the first time that I have heard of anyone using an 8-Meg card.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,201+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
> Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 08:34:56 -0400
>
>
> I had the opportunity to pick up an 8MB card which is supposed to be
> compatible with my GX60. It is originally designed (like the 4MB
cards) to
> work in a Cisco router.
>
> My Jeppesen skybound adapter won't recognize it. Any suggestions?
> I'll probably call Jeppesen Tech support in the AM. I already know
that the
> card works with my GX60 as I have put an older database on it,
plugged it
> in, passed the diagnostics, and flown successfully.
>
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 7.5 hrs
&==========
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
Find out more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 8MB cards for GX60 |
There is an ini or .sys file that Sky bound checks fo
r valid cards. I had to mess with it before to get
around some errors. You might try adding the 8Mb to the
appropriate entry. Should be in the Sky bound folder.
Greg Young
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:34:06
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 8MB cards for GX60 |
I also purchased the 8mb card... Turns out that these are HC which are not backward
compatible with the original SD card readers/writers.
Chris Stone
RV-8
-----Original Message-----
>From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
>Sent: Mar 22, 2009 9:02 AM
>To: RV List
>Subject: RE: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
>
>
>How did you get an OLDER database on the card without using the Jeppesen Skybound
adapter?
>
>Yes the original 2 Meg cards will not hold the data required on the new updates
but the 4 Meg cards for the Cisco Router will.
>
>I have used about a half-dozen different 4-Meg cards without problem. This is
the first time that I have heard of anyone using an 8-Meg card.
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>
>2,201+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>
>
>> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
>> Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 08:34:56 -0400
>>
>>
>> I had the opportunity to pick up an 8MB card which is supposed to be
>> compatible with my GX60. It is originally designed (like the 4MB cards) to
>> work in a Cisco router.
>>
>> My Jeppesen skybound adapter won't recognize it. Any suggestions?
>> I'll probably call Jeppesen Tech support in the AM. I already know that the
>> card works with my GX60 as I have put an older database on it, plugged it
>> in, passed the diagnostics, and flown successfully.
>>
>> Ralph
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 7.5 hrs
>>
>>
>===========
>===========
>===========
>===========
>>
>>
>>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Hotmail is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
>http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_032009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gregg Costabile" <gcostabile(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Motor |
Had my starter fail this week and had a ton of help from the Chapter 108 EAA
gang trying to get me airborne again. Had my starter side-by-side with a
loaner and found both starters have nine tooth pinion gears. However, the
pinion gear diameter for my starter was about 3 inches, while the pinion
gear diameter for the loaner was about 2.5 inches (as measured with
calipers). If you have the starters side-by-side the difference in diameter
is easily visible. My engine has a 122 tooth gear ring. So we should be
able to conclude the 149 tooth gear ring configuration requires a starter
with about a 2.5 inch diameter pinion gear, while the 122 tooth gear ring
requires a starter with about a 3 inch diameter pinion gear. Hope this
helps.
Gregg Costabile
RV-6, 1201 hours
O-320-A1A, fixed pitch Aymar Demuth
Match:
#24
Message:
#117833
From:
"H.Ivan Haecker"
Subject:
Starter Motor
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=148325720?KEYS=1
49_&_starter?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=24?SERIAL=1048461877?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>
Date:
Feb 12, 2005
I need to know how to tell if a particular 12 volt Prestolite starter motor
is
used with a 122 or a 149 tooth ring gear. The motor in question has 9 teeth
on
its drive gear and is stamped with the following:
A/E P/N 2041
Part No. MZ4222R
For the future, does anyone know how to tell which ring gear matches a
starter
by looking solely at the drive gear?
Thanks,
Ivan Haecker -4 1175 hrs. S. Cen. TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 8MB cards for GX60 |
Greg,
Any more info would be appreciated and worth the wait.....
I dug through my folders looking for .sys and .ini files - did find a
couple but none had what looked like a section that would differentiate
between 2, 4, and 8 MB cards.
Thanks,
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: gyoung@cs-sol.com
To: RV List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
There is an ini or .sys file that Sky bound checks for valid cards. I
had to mess with it before to get around some errors. You might try
adding the 8Mb to the appropriate entry. Should be in the Sky bound
folder.
Greg Young
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "Ralph E. Capen"
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:34:06 -0400
To:
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
I have an OmniDrive flash card reader that came = with software
to create an 'image' of the card which can be written to =
another card.
This allows me to carry a backup and the last = cycles
databases with me in the event of something that I don't understand =
about these kind of devices.......
I remember reading (somewhere and I wish I could = find it)
that the GX60 is advertised to support 2, 4, and 8 MB cards and I know
= it will read the 8MB card with the 4MB image on it without any
issues. The = skybound adapter seems to be my limitation right now as
it will not = acknowledge the presence of the 8MB card.
Really not an issue as the current database uses = just a bit
more than the space on the original 2MB card - we shouldn't need to =
upgrade to an 8MB card for a good long while....
Just trying to figure out if anyone's already = done it (maybe
that's where I read it....here!......ya ya that's the ticket).
----- Original Message -----
From: RV6 Flyer
To: RV List
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 = 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: 8MB cards = for GX60
How did you get an OLDER database on the card without = using
the Jeppesen Skybound adapter?
Yes the original 2 Meg cards will = not hold the data
required on the new updates but the 4 Meg cards for the Cisco =
Router will.
I have used about a half-dozen different 4-Meg = cards
without problem. This is the first time that I have heard of anyone =
using an 8-Meg card.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 = Hartzell,
2,201+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
> Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 08:34:56 -0400
>
> = --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>
> I had the opportunity = to pick up an 8MB card which is
supposed to be
> compatible with my = GX60. It is originally designed (like
the 4MB cards) to
> work in a Cisco router.
>
> My Jeppesen skybound adapter won't recognize = it. Any
suggestions?
> I'll probably call Jeppesen Tech support in the = AM. I
already know that the
> card works with my GX60 as I have put = an older database
on it, plugged it
> in, passed the diagnostics, and = flown successfully.
>
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 7.5 hrs =
&=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
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Find out more.
href=3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronic
s.= com/Navigator?RV-List
href=3D"http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href=3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com
/c=
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D =B7~=89=B2,=03pr=89=AC=D3}=03=A2z=C1=AE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Motor |
Greg,
Thanks for the info. I never did find the answer to my question from 4
years ago until now. In fact, I had totally forgotten the whole affair.
I finally just bolted the starter I had on the engine and the gears
seemed to mesh so I went with that and had no problems. But thanks to
you, I now know how to tell the difference.
Ivan Haecker -4 1546 hrs. S. Cen. TX
----- Original Message -----
From: Gregg Costabile
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 1:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Starter Motor
Had my starter fail this week and had a ton of help from the Chapter
108 EAA gang trying to get me airborne again. Had my starter
side-by-side with a loaner and found both starters have nine tooth
pinion gears. However, the pinion gear diameter for my starter was
about 3 inches, while the pinion gear diameter for the loaner was about
2.5 inches (as measured with calipers). If you have the starters
side-by-side the difference in diameter is easily visible. My engine
has a 122 tooth gear ring. So we should be able to conclude the 149
tooth gear ring configuration requires a starter with about a 2.5 inch
diameter pinion gear, while the 122 tooth gear ring requires a starter
with about a 3 inch diameter pinion gear. Hope this helps.
Gregg Costabile
RV-6, 1201 hours
O-320-A1A, fixed pitch Aymar Demuth
Match:
#24
Message:
#117833
From:
"H.Ivan Haecker"
Subject:
Starter Motor
Date:
Feb 12, 2005
I need to know how to tell if a particular 12 volt Prestolite starter
motor isused with a 122 or a 149 tooth ring gear. The motor in question
has 9 teeth onits drive gear and is stamped with the following:A/E P/N
2041Part No. MZ4222R For the future, does anyone know how to tell which
ring gear matches a starterby looking solely at the drive
gear?Thanks,Ivan Haecker -4 1175 hrs. S. Cen. TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 8MB cards for GX60 |
The file is Services.ini in the Skybound2 folder. The entries are like:
DUPS12 = 2MB,4MB
represent a subscription type and the card sizes that are valid. I let my
subscription lapse while my plane was down and have not re-upped as yet so I
can't reconstruct how I deduced which entry to change. IIRC you can see some
details on the card using the Read IID menu selection. The subscription type
may be in the subscription dropdown. Worst case you can try adding ",8MB" to
all the ones that don't have it. You can edit it with Notepad. Just be sure
to back up the file first. But if they have updated the software
dramatically since I subscribed then the above may not apply.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
Greg,
Any more info would be appreciated and worth the wait.....
I dug through my folders looking for .sys and .ini files - did find a couple
but none had what looked like a section that would differentiate between 2,
4, and 8 MB cards.
Thanks,
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: gyoung@cs-sol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
There is an ini or .sys file that Sky bound checks for valid cards. I had to
mess with it before to get around some errors. You might try adding the 8Mb
to the appropriate entry. Should be in the Sky bound folder.
Greg Young
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
_____
From: "Ralph E. Capen"
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:34:06 -0400
Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
I have an OmniDrive flash card reader that came = with software to create
an 'image' of the card which can be written to = another card.
This allows me to carry a backup and the last = cycles databases with me
in the event of something that I don't understand = about these kind of
devices.......
I remember reading (somewhere and I wish I could = find it) that the GX60
is advertised to support 2, 4, and 8 MB cards and I know = it will read
the 8MB card with the 4MB image on it without any issues. The = skybound
adapter seems to be my limitation right now as it will not = acknowledge
the presence of the 8MB card.
Really not an issue as the current database uses = just a bit more than
the space on the original 2MB card - we shouldn't need to = upgrade to an
8MB card for a good long while....
Just trying to figure out if anyone's already = done it (maybe that's
where I read it....here!......ya ya that's the ticket).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 8MB cards for GX60 |
Thanks - I'll start digging.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>Sent: Mar 23, 2009 1:29 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
>
>The file is Services.ini in the Skybound2 folder. The entries are like:
>DUPS12 = 2MB,4MB
>represent a subscription type and the card sizes that are valid. I let my
>subscription lapse while my plane was down and have not re-upped as yet so I
>can't reconstruct how I deduced which entry to change. IIRC you can see some
>details on the card using the Read IID menu selection. The subscription type
>may be in the subscription dropdown. Worst case you can try adding ",8MB" to
>all the ones that don't have it. You can edit it with Notepad. Just be sure
>to back up the file first. But if they have updated the software
>dramatically since I subscribed then the above may not apply.
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young
>
>
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 8:10 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
>
>
>Greg,
>
>Any more info would be appreciated and worth the wait.....
>
>I dug through my folders looking for .sys and .ini files - did find a couple
>but none had what looked like a section that would differentiate between 2,
>4, and 8 MB cards.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: gyoung@cs-sol.com
>To: RV List
>Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 2:30 PM
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
>
>There is an ini or .sys file that Sky bound checks for valid cards. I had to
>mess with it before to get around some errors. You might try adding the 8Mb
>to the appropriate entry. Should be in the Sky bound folder.
>Greg Young
>
>
>Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
>
>
> _____
>
>From: "Ralph E. Capen"
>Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:34:06 -0400
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 8MB cards for GX60
>
>
>I have an OmniDrive flash card reader that came = with software to create
>an 'image' of the card which can be written to = another card.
>
>This allows me to carry a backup and the last = cycles databases with me
>in the event of something that I don't understand = about these kind of
>devices.......
>
>I remember reading (somewhere and I wish I could = find it) that the GX60
>is advertised to support 2, 4, and 8 MB cards and I know = it will read
>the 8MB card with the 4MB image on it without any issues. The = skybound
>adapter seems to be my limitation right now as it will not = acknowledge
>the presence of the 8MB card.
>
>Really not an issue as the current database uses = just a bit more than
>the space on the original 2MB card - we shouldn't need to = upgrade to an
>8MB card for a good long while....
>
>Just trying to figure out if anyone's already = done it (maybe that's
>where I read it....here!......ya ya that's the ticket).
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Sources for seat cushions for an RV-9A |
Fellow Builders,
I'm at the point in building where I need to buy seat cushions for my
RV-9A. Can you point me to any additional sources besides those
appearing below? (I'm in cost-containment mode...)
Thanks...
Joe Connell
507-281-5092
Flightline Interiors
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
George & Becki Orndorff
http://www.fly-gbi.com/
Cleaveland Tools
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/
Oregon Aero
http://www.oregonaero.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D Paul Deits <pdeits(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for seat cushions for an RV-9A |
Classic Aurora Oregon
On Mar 23, 2009, at 2:10 PM, Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Fellow Builders,
>
> I'm at the point in building where I need to buy seat cushions for
> my RV-9A. Can you point me to any additional sources besides those
> appearing below? (I'm in cost-containment mode...)
>
> Thanks...
>
> Joe Connell
> 507-281-5092
>
> Flightline Interiors
> http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
>
> George & Becki Orndorff
> http://www.fly-gbi.com/
>
> Cleaveland Tools
> http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/
>
> Oregon Aero
> http://www.oregonaero.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sources for seat cushions for an RV-9A |
Well, you cannot go wrong with Flightline Interiors...her work is
prompt, reasonable, and absolutely perfect.
John Rv 6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe & Jan Connell
To: RV-List
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 3:10 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sources for seat cushions for an RV-9A
Fellow Builders,
I'm at the point in building where I need to buy seat cushions for my
RV-9A. Can you point me to any additional sources besides those
appearing below? (I'm in cost-containment mode...)
Thanks...
Joe Connell
507-281-5092
Flightline Interiors
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
George & Becki Orndorff
http://www.fly-gbi.com/
Cleaveland Tools
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/
Oregon Aero
http://www.oregonaero.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RC Allen RCA2600 ADI |
| From: | "marklevy" <markwlevy(at)gmail.com> |
Has anyone yet seen/touched/installed one of these new electronic horizons? Aircraft
Spruce have them online for $2500.
Would like to hear from an early adopter before I plunk down my cash.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236145#236145
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI |
marklevy wrote:
>
> Has anyone yet seen/touched/installed one of these new electronic
> horizons? Aircraft Spruce have them online for $2500.
>
> Would like to hear from an early adopter before I plunk down my cash.
Have you considered a Dynon EFIS? All the features of the entire 6-pack
for less money than the RC Allen device.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI |
No experience with their "new" horizon, but I've had very poor experience
with their "old" electrical driven gyro horizon. It fails in less than 100
hours and I 've had it rebuilt several times with the same poor results.
I'm skeptical of their products as they do not stand behind them.
Garry Stout
----- Original Message -----
From: "marklevy" <markwlevy(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 6:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI
>
> Has anyone yet seen/touched/installed one of these new electronic
> horizons? Aircraft Spruce have them online for $2500.
>
> Would like to hear from an early adopter before I plunk down my cash.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236145#236145
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI |
Garry=0A=0ANo experience with them but I was looking at it today when I was
down at ACS. It caught my eye as I am thinking about replacing my vacuum h
orizon and DG. But sitting just to the left is the Dynon EFIS D10A for 2095
.00. Add battery back up, OAT probe, remote compass, pitot heated with AOA
and it comes to arround 2834. So for about 334 more you get =0A=0A=0A
=A2 Attitude Indicator=0A=A2 Airspeed Indicator =0A=A2 Altimete
r=0A=A2 Turn Rate =0A=A2 Clock/Timer=0A=A2 G-MeterVoltmet
er=0A=A2 Vertical Speed Indicator=0A=A2 Turn Coordinator/Ball
=0A=A2 Angle-of-Attack (w/optional Dynon AOA pitot)=0A=A2 Seria
l altitude encoder output to your transponder=0A=A2 Gyro-Stabilized C
ompass Heading=0A=A2 HSI=0A=0ASo I stoped looking at the "new electro
nic horizon" and started playing with the Dynon and figuring out howmany OT
's I need.=0A=0AJust a thought.=0A=0A Mike Divan=0AN64GH - RV6 (flying) =0A
http://n64gh.blogspot.com/=0AFREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDI
ER FOR YOURS!=0ARemember it is the Solder, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Cost
Guard that guarantee your freedom NOT the "community organizer"!=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Garry <garrys(at)tampabay.rr
.com>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 5:17:03
PM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI=0A=0A--> RV-List message p
osted by: "Garry" =0A=0ANo experience with their "n
ew" horizon, but I've had very poor experience =0Awith their "old" electric
al driven gyro horizon. It fails in less than 100 =0Ahours and I 've had i
t rebuilt several times with the same poor results. =0AI'm skeptical of the
ir products as they do not stand behind them.=0A=0AGarry Stout=0A=0A=0A----
- Original Message ----- =0AFrom: "marklevy" <markwlevy(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: <r
v-list(at)matronics.com>=0ASent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 6:12 PM=0ASubject:
klevy" =0A>=0A> Has anyone yet seen/touched/installed
one of these new electronic =0A> horizons? Aircraft Spruce have them online
for $2500.=0A>=0A> Would like to hear from an early adopter before I plunk
down my cash.=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> Read this topic online here:=0A>=0A> htt
p://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236145#236145=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A
=========================0A
==0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ??? |
Greetings:
What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes in the
Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jakent(at)unison.ie" <jakent(at)unison.ie> |
| Subject: | RE:Filler for unwanted rivet holes. |
Garey, if the skin is not already riveted on you could try slightly
countersinking both sides of the hole, then using your rivet cutter to cut
off a length of rivet shank a few gnat's whiskers longer than the thickness
of the skin and using a back-riveting plate and mushroom or back-riveting
set to drive the stub in the hole - not too enthusiastically - you don't
want to stretch the skin. A little work with a sanding pad or scotchbrite
and the repair will be hardly noticed.
John Kent EI-DIY.
"What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
in the
Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA"
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web.com - Microsoft Exchange solutions from a leading provider -
http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI |
On the the other hand.........
I have an RC Allen electrical gyro horizon that I purchased as a "rebuilt"
unit over ten years ago and it is still going strong.
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI
>
> No experience with their "new" horizon, but I've had very poor experience
> with their "old" electrical driven gyro horizon. It fails in less than
> 100 hours and I 've had it rebuilt several times with the same poor
> results. I'm skeptical of their products as they do not stand behind them.
>
> Garry Stout
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "marklevy" <markwlevy(at)gmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 6:12 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI
>
>
>>
>> Has anyone yet seen/touched/installed one of these new electronic
>> horizons? Aircraft Spruce have them online for $2500.
>>
>> Would like to hear from an early adopter before I plunk down my cash.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236145#236145
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV4 Rear Rudder Pedals Kit |
Dear Listers,
I need to be pointed to the RV gent who makes the RV4 rear c/p rudder kit. It's
the one with the simple bent 1/2" rod shaped like a square U and uses light
weight chain attached to the rudder cable.
Thanks ...
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV4 Rear Rudder Pedals Kit |
Dear Listers,
I need to be pointed to the RV gent who makes the RV4 rear c/p rudder kit. It's
the one with the simple bent 1/2" rod shaped like a square U and uses light
weight chain attached to the rudder cable.
Thanks ...
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV4 Rear Rudder Pedals Kit |
Dear Listers,
I need to be pointed to the RV gent who makes the RV4 rear c/p rudder kit. It's
the one with the simple bent 1/2" rod shaped like a square U and uses light
weight chain attached to the rudder cable.
Thanks ...
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE:Filler for unwanted rivet holes. |
I have done similar to what John says on a 3/32" hole in 0.032 skin. Counte
r sunk both sides and then set a 3/32" rivet. Once set=2C I used a RIVET SH
AVER to cut away the excess. Done correctly=2C it is almost impossible to
tell that a repair has been made.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C201+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> From: jakent(at)unison.ie
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RE:Filler for unwanted rivet holes.
> Date: Thu=2C 26 Mar 2009 07:38:10 -0400
>
>
> Garey=2C if the skin is not already riveted on you could try slightly
> countersinking both sides of the hole=2C then using your rivet cutter to
cut
> off a length of rivet shank a few gnat's whiskers longer than the thickne
ss
> of the skin and using a back-riveting plate and mushroom or back-riveting
> set to drive the stub in the hole - not too enthusiastically - you don't
> want to stretch the skin. A little work with a sanding pad or scotchbrite
> and the repair will be hardly noticed.
> John Kent EI-DIY.
>
>
> "What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted hol
es
> in the
> Skin=2C where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>
> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>
> Thanks=2C Garey Wittich Santa Monica=2C CA"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
> mail2web.com - Microsoft=AE Exchange solutions from a leading provider -
> http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_03200
9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE:Filler for unwanted rivet holes. |
You can go one better and set a NAS 1097 reduced head rivet in a smaller
countersunk hole, if it's not already dimpled full size.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
RV6 Flyer wrote:
> I have done similar to what John says on a 3/32" hole in 0.032 skin.
> Counter sunk both sides and then set a 3/32" rivet. Once set, I used a
> RIVET SHAVER to cut away the excess. Done correctly, it is almost
> impossible to tell that a repair has been made.
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 2,201+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>
>
> > From: jakent(at)unison.ie
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: RE:Filler for unwanted rivet holes.
> > Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 07:38:10 -0400
> >
> >
> > Garey, if the skin is not already riveted on you could try slightly
> > countersinking both sides of the hole, then using your rivet cutter
> to cut
> > off a length of rivet shank a few gnat's whiskers longer than the
> thickness
> > of the skin and using a back-riveting plate and mushroom or
> back-riveting
> > set to drive the stub in the hole - not too enthusiastically - you don't
> > want to stretch the skin. A little work with a sanding pad or
> scotchbrite
> > and the repair will be hardly noticed.
> > John Kent EI-DIY.
> >
> >
> > "What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of
> unwanted holes
> > in the
> > Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
> >
> > Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
> >
> > Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------
> > mail2web.com - Microsoft Exchange solutions from a leading provider -
> > http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Hotmail is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast. Find
> out more.
> <http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_032009>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Filler for "Unwanted" Rivet Holes ??? |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
I have had good luck with superfil, and also flox. (probably flox is better
but I have used both). Skuff and prep the inside, tape over the outside, be
generous with the filler so it can grip the inside surface.
Has held for 350 hrs., but who knows, could pop out tomorrow.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Wed, Mar 25, 2009 at 10:02 PM, Garey Wittich
wrote:
>
>
> Greetings:
>
> What material have you Builders used to fill in a couple of unwanted holes
> in the Skin, where a rivet can NOT be placed to plug the hole ????
>
> Is Super-Fil a possible solution ????
>
> Thanks, Garey Wittich Santa Monica, CA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hangar at Manassas, VA (HEF) ? |
| From: | Randy Garrett <rgarrett7(at)gmail.com> |
I'm looking for an RV builder to share a beautiful new hangar with
insulation, heat, electricity at HEF. $300 per
month.
Randy
RV-6A
800+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Generation 3 Ignition |
Hello Dave,
All mags should be inspected @ the recommended time interval. Example, I
have inspected Slick mags with 400hrs on them and they were excellent
for the G3i system modification. Depending on what fails in the mag, in
some scenarios, the electronic will back -up the mag and continue to
fire just fine. During run-up, a system off, normal (L-R) mag drop is
recommended to revel any potential ignition problems. We do the mag
modification here and inspections/ repairs. Since the spark plug gap is
slightly larger than the stock (.018") recommendation. New total air gap
being increased to .020" - .026" the secondary voltage range to ionize
the spark adds roughly .2 - .5kv to the overall window. It is the
synchronized multiple discharge that make the G3i systems performs so
well. Here is a link to Larry Vettermans/ Vettermans Exhaust website
scroll down to Hartzell Blended Airfoil vs Whirlwind 200RV Series props
on my RV-7A..Larry Vetterman for info. on his test findings or give him
a call.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Leikam
To: Generation 3 Ignition
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus
Do the mags still need overhaul at 500 hours? What does the system do
in the case of a mag failure?
I plan to order a stock IO-540 from Van's Aircraft in a few weeks.
Can I send you the mags for conversion?
Is the spark voltage energy increased over standard mag voltage? So
far your system sounds very good however I have not been able to get
much feedback in the field about it. How many systems do you have
flying? Thanks for taking the barrage of questions!!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 #40496
N89DA (Reserved)
Muskego, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation 3 Ignition
To: daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
Cc: G3i
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would be the
closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many benefits
to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product has the
best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run half a
ignition system to still have mag redundancy. Its doesn't require
back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical
system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component
fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still
continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems
together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the install manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com>
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by
> (daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com) on Wednesday, March 25, 2009 at 21:56:57
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> name2: Dave
> Last name: Leikam
> address: S79W16389 Woods Rd
> city2: Muskego
> state2: WI
> zip: 53150
> phone number: 414-807-5499
> email2: daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or Electroair and
others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until I saw
your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others? Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Generation 3 Ignition |
Hello Dave,
All mags should be inspected @ the recommended time interval. Example,
I have inspected Slick mags with 400hrs on them and they were excellent
for the G3i system modification. Depending on what fails in the mag, in
some scenarios, the electronic will back -up the mag and continue to
fire just fine. During run-up, a system off, normal (L-R) mag drop is
recommended to revel any potential ignition problems. We do the mag
modification here and inspections/ repairs. Since the spark plug gap is
slightly larger than the stock (.018") recommendation. New total air gap
being increased to .020" - .026" the secondary voltage range to ionize
the spark adds roughly .2 - .5kv to the overall window. It is the
synchronized multiple discharge that make the G3i systems performs so
well. Here is a link to Larry Vettermans/ Vettermans Exhaust website
scroll down to Hartzell Blended Airfoil vs Whirlwind 200RV Series props
on my RV-7A..Larry Vetterman for info. on his test findings or give him
a call.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: FormContactus
Do the mags still need overhaul at 500 hours? What does the system
do in the case of a mag failure?
I plan to order a stock IO-540 from Van's Aircraft in a few weeks.
Can I send you the mags for conversion?
Is the spark voltage energy increased over standard mag voltage? So
far your system sounds very good however I have not been able to get
much feedback in the field about it. How many systems do you have
flying? Thanks for taking the barrage of questions!!
Dave
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would be
the closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many
benefits to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product
has the best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run
half a ignition system to still have mag redundancy. Its doesn't require
back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical
system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component
fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still
continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems
together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the install manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or Electroair
and others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until I
saw your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others? Thanks.
>
> Dave
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RC Allen RCA2600 ADI |
| From: | "marklevy" <markwlevy(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the feedback guys. I posted on the RV forum, as it has a huge database
of experience. The ADI is, however for my YAK50, and I don't want an EFIS as
it would not be in keeping with the rest of the panel.
I know that the electro mechanical RC Allen horizons don't fare well in high vibration
installations (the YAK's usual environment) but this is a solid state
unit.
I was also looking at the TruTrak ADI, but was put off by its use of processed
Vertical speed data to provide pitch info, and its inability to show roll beyond
30 degrees.
Has anyone had experience with this bit of kit? How does it handle continuous acro?
Mike; any feedback from the avionics shop on the quality of the RCA2600?
Appreciate the help.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=236510#236510
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Fasching" <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com> |
Can you private message me regarding your experience with Partain
shipping your kits...particularly in regard to communications with them,
delays, and any other perteninet infor in confidence. Thank you
John
n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kit Shipments |
A lot of info on this subject on the VAF forum. Here are just three
examples pulled up by the forum Search engine:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=40172&highlight=Partain
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=40001&highlight=Partain
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=26969&highlight=Partain
Sam Buchanan
=========================
John Fasching wrote:
> Can you private message me regarding your experience with Partain
> shipping your kits...particularly in regard to communications with
> them, delays, and any other perteninet infor in confidence. Thank you
>
>
> John n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Cordner" <davcor(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Generation 3 Ignition |
Thomas
Do you have some ".bcc" list going? Interesting email, I learned a
couple things, but I don't think it was intended for me?
Dave Cordner
davcor(at)comcast.net
btw, my son got the nova/396 running... had to re-adj the valves to get
it to start.
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation 3 ignition
To: Dave Leikam
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 6:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Generation 3 Ignition
Hello Dave,
All mags should be inspected @ the recommended time interval.
Example, I have inspected Slick mags with 400hrs on them and they were
excellent for the G3i system modification. Depending on what fails in
the mag, in some scenarios, the electronic will back -up the mag and
continue to fire just fine. During run-up, a system off, normal (L-R)
mag drop is recommended to revel any potential ignition problems. We do
the mag modification here and inspections/ repairs. Since the spark plug
gap is slightly larger than the stock (.018") recommendation. New total
air gap being increased to .020" - .026" the secondary voltage range to
ionize the spark adds roughly .2 - .5kv to the overall window. It is the
synchronized multiple discharge that make the G3i systems performs so
well. Here is a link to Larry Vettermans/ Vettermans Exhaust website
scroll down to Hartzell Blended Airfoil vs Whirlwind 200RV Series props
on my RV-7A..Larry Vetterman for info. on his test findings or give him
a call.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: FormContactus
Do the mags still need overhaul at 500 hours? What does the
system do in the case of a mag failure?
I plan to order a stock IO-540 from Van's Aircraft in a few weeks.
Can I send you the mags for conversion?
Is the spark voltage energy increased over standard mag voltage?
So far your system sounds very good however I have not been able to get
much feedback in the field about it. How many systems do you have
flying? Thanks for taking the barrage of questions!!
Dave
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would be
the closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many
benefits to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product
has the best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run
half a ignition system to still have mag redundancy. Its doesn't require
back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical
system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component
fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still
continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems
together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the install manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or Electroair
and others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until I
saw your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others? Thanks.
>
> Dave
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
Hello Dave,
Yes, with the G3i system, the Multiple Spark Discharge is energized
while starting, thus taking place of the Slick Start/ Bendix Shower of
Sparks. Also, both mags are energize while starting.
Yes, a single system runs both (L&R) magnetos.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 10:04 AM
Subject: G3I for IO540
Does your system eliminate the Slickstart requirement? Does a single
system cover both mags?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Rocket-List: Generation 3 Ignition |
Hello John,
The total mag height should not be increased, the coil stud terminal is
.500". Usally the height of the ignition harness or p-leads looming
around is the problem.
Are your Bendix 20-series or 1200 's mags, if there 20-series do they
have the flat top steel cover? I've attached a pic of Larry Vetterman's
flat top mag installed with the coil terminal stud. If you go to the
www.g3ignition.com a look @ the G3i pdf install manual, there are more
examples and mods.
The G3i system will eliminate the shower of sparks. It will receive the
retard contacts signal while cranking and will retard/energize both mags
@ start-up. (Drawing # 2 in manual)
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: Generation 3 Ignition
Dear Thomas,
I have been following the string of communication on Rocket List...
I'm interested in adding your system.
My Rocket is equipped with non-impulse type mags and Bendix "Shower of
Sparks" ignition. Also, does your mod increase mag depth in any way ?
I have minimum space between mag (head and wiring) and the firewall.
Thanks for any info you might give.
In a message dated 3/28/2009 6:06:56 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
mail(at)g3ignition.com writes:
Hello Dave,
All mags should be inspected @ the recommended time interval.
Example, I have inspected Slick mags with 400hrs on them and they were
excellent for the G3i system modification. Depending on what fails in
the mag, in some scenarios, the electronic will back -up the mag and
continue to fire just fine. During run-up, a system off, normal (L-R)
mag drop is recommended to revel any potential ignition problems. We do
the mag modification here and inspections/ repairs. Since the spark plug
gap is slightly larger than the stock (.018") recommendation. New total
air gap being increased to .020" - .026" the secondary voltage range to
ionize the spark adds roughly .2 - .5kv to the overall window. It is the
synchronized multiple discharge that make the G3i systems performs so
well. Here is a link to Larry Vettermans/ Vettermans Exhaust website
scroll down to Hartzell Blended Airfoil vs Whirlwind 200RV Series props
on my RV-7A.Larry Vetterman for info. on his test findings or
give him a call.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kit Shipments |
Hi John,
-
I used Partains to ship a qb RV7 fuse.- Couldn't have been better.- Dur
ing the ordering process they communicated well via email and phone.- Enr
oute, the driver gave me updates via his cell phone.- At the house, he kn
ew exactly how to take care of an airplane in unloading.- I offered him c
offee and brownies.- It was late, and I wish I would have offered him a s
hower and bed.- I guess some guys have tipped the driver like twenty buck
s or so.
Oh, the price was right also.- Had I known they also deliver finish kits
etc. I would have used them again.-
-
Steve
--- On Sat, 3/28/09, John Fasching wrote:
From: John Fasching <n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Kit Shipments
Date: Saturday, March 28, 2009, 12:30 PM
Can you private message me regarding your experience with Partain shipping
your kits...particularly in regard to communications with them, delays, and
any other perteninet infor in confidence. Thank you
-
John
-n1cxo320(at)salidaco.com
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim |
| From: | "Terry McCurry" <tmccurry(at)greenwoodcpw.com> |
Hello List, Recently I purchased a RV 4 that was completed in 1988 by
another builder. The aircraft has as electric trim in the left wing tip
which does not work at this time. I have confirmed that the switch is
sending power (12vdc) out to the servo motor but nothing happens.
Checking the leads from the motor with an ohm meter indicates an open
circuit. My problem is that I can see rivets in the wing tip where the
trim motor is mounted but there is no assess panel to service the motor.
Has anyone got any ideas that might be a solution which would work
other than removing the wing tip?
Thanks
TM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim |
How is the trim actuated? Is there a tab on the trailing edge or is there a built-in
tab in the trailing edge? Can you get to the 'other' ends of the wiring?
Are there two or five wires? (two being for motor only and five giving you
a position indicator)
Is there a landing/taxi light in the leading edge? That might provide access the
the area forward of the spar. For the area aft of the spar, removing the tip
is the only option that I can dream of.
I made my tips removable as my strobe power packs are out there. If there's stuff
out there that might (ever) need to be worked on, I would figure out a way
to make the tips maintenance oriented.
Just my .02 worth,
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 8.3 hrs
-----Original Message-----
>From: Terry McCurry <tmccurry(at)greenwoodcpw.com>
>Sent: Mar 30, 2009 3:55 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim
>
>Hello List, Recently I purchased a RV 4 that was completed in 1988 by
>another builder. The aircraft has as electric trim in the left wing tip
>which does not work at this time. I have confirmed that the switch is
>sending power (12vdc) out to the servo motor but nothing happens.
>Checking the leads from the motor with an ohm meter indicates an open
>circuit. My problem is that I can see rivets in the wing tip where the
>trim motor is mounted but there is no assess panel to service the motor.
>Has anyone got any ideas that might be a solution which would work
>other than removing the wing tip?
>
>Thanks
>
>TM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim |
You can cut your own hole and then make an access panel. But, even
then, I find in the long run you will end up taking the wingtip off
anyway.
I know everyone has a different perspective, but I have been flying for
7 years with no manual or electric trim. I have the manual trim, but I
have not installed it. I don't see any real benefit for the amount of
work involved.
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry McCurry
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 12:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim
Hello List, Recently I purchased a RV 4 that was completed in 1988 by
another builder. The aircraft has as electric trim in the left wing tip
which does not work at this time. I have confirmed that the switch is
sending power (12vdc) out to the servo motor but nothing happens.
Checking the leads from the motor with an ohm meter indicates an open
circuit. My problem is that I can see rivets in the wing tip where the
trim motor is mounted but there is no assess panel to service the motor.
Has anyone got any ideas that might be a solution which would work
other than removing the wing tip?
Thanks
TM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty at Lakes & Leisure Realty" <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim |
Is the servo attached with rivets and a rod attached to the aileron, or is
everything on the inside of the aileron? Is there an inspection plate
somewhere along the aft edge of the wing? Do you know the previous owner of
the plane and/or the original builder? If you remove the tip, you could
use platenuts or a piano hinge to reinstall the tip. Others have cut an
opening in the tip and then reinstalled the fiberglass with platenuts. This
may be a good way to get into the wing and the worst case is you need a new
tip or fiberglass repair. Just my 2 cents.
Jim
RV9a building
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim
>
> How is the trim actuated? Is there a tab on the trailing edge or is there
> a built-in tab in the trailing edge? Can you get to the 'other' ends of
> the wiring? Are there two or five wires? (two being for motor only and
> five giving you a position indicator)
>
> Is there a landing/taxi light in the leading edge? That might provide
> access the the area forward of the spar. For the area aft of the spar,
> removing the tip is the only option that I can dream of.
>
> I made my tips removable as my strobe power packs are out there. If
> there's stuff out there that might (ever) need to be worked on, I would
> figure out a way to make the tips maintenance oriented.
>
> Just my .02 worth,
>
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 8.3 hrs
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Terry McCurry <tmccurry(at)greenwoodcpw.com>
>>Sent: Mar 30, 2009 3:55 PM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: RV 4 Electric Aileron Trim
>>
>>Hello List, Recently I purchased a RV 4 that was completed in 1988 by
>>another builder. The aircraft has as electric trim in the left wing tip
>>which does not work at this time. I have confirmed that the switch is
>>sending power (12vdc) out to the servo motor but nothing happens.
>>Checking the leads from the motor with an ohm meter indicates an open
>>circuit. My problem is that I can see rivets in the wing tip where the
>>trim motor is mounted but there is no assess panel to service the motor.
>>Has anyone got any ideas that might be a solution which would work
>>other than removing the wing tip?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>TM
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
Hello Glen,
Yes, The G3i system will work with the Bendix dual mag. Since the
internals electrics are the same as the Bendix1200 series magnetos, and
I have done a few of the 1200 series. I personally have not done a
Bendix dual mag modification yet. It would be a good candidate though.
We will have many various types of magnetos that will be modified,
including the Bendix dual mag. at our AirVenture booth this year on
display.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:17 AM
Subject: dual mags
I see no mention of Bendix dual mag systems. Can your system be
installed on a dual mag?
Glen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Re: timing advance |
Hello Dave,
Well first off, we all know the aircraft engine is of large
displacement, which has a very small rpm window of operation, and to top
it off also, it has very poor air/fuel atomization with a huge
combustion chamber. So, how? Well the fuel economy and extra hp comes
from the Multiple Spark Discharge (MSD). When the first firing event of
the MSD takes place, a flame front is created. As this flame front is
burning in the combustion chamber, there is a swirling turbulence that
takes place. Drawing unburned air/fuel mixture passed the spark plugs.
This is where the MSD come into play. The second and third firing event
then ignites this air/fuel mixture, which creates a quicker complete
burn of the air/fuel mixture as the piston passes through TDC. The MSD
spark is not hotter and doesn't need to be, that is why we do not use
huge spark plug air gaps. As the saying goes, screwing a 75 watt light
bulb into a 300 watt socket the bulb is not going to burn any brighter.
The others all claim to get their advantage from timing advance along
with hotter spark. The key word in the sentence is "spark" that's
singular. With one spark you need more time to get that complete
combustion since it is so slow. The only way is to ramp up (advance)
the timing close to the verge of detonation, and also deliver a hotter
spark hoping that it will have a better chance (only chance) of
ignition. With these timing advances, the cylinder pressures go up
tremendously as the piston travels towards and over TDC. This creates
more ware on engine internals from these pressures. As for a =BD and =BD
mag/electronic advance ignition system.. For example, the electronics
are firing @, let's say 35 degrees and the mag is set at 25 degrees.
Since the combustion has already started, that mag is now confronted
with firing though an incredible amount of cylinder pressure, if it can
at all. I have seen mag failure on the =BD and =BD systems. I hope this
helps some, these will be some of the topics spoken in great detail @
our booth at AirVenture this year.
Sincerely,
Thomas S.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus timing advance
So you are saying there is negligible benefit to advancing timing
greater than 25 degrees BTDC below 12,500 pressure altitude and only a
1% advantage above? Where then does the fuel economy and extra hp you
see with your system come from? The hotter spark? I am really trying
to understand all the different systems out there and yours seems to be
the easiest to install, and I like the mag back-up. But the others all
claim to get their advantage from timing advance along with hotter
spark. I'll be frank, I am torn between your system and Electroair. I
would use a single mag and the Electroair system. Sell me on yours.
Thanks!!
Dave
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus timing advance
Hello Dave,
The G3i system dose not have a timing advance built in. A timing
control module can be added which will give you a adjustable timing
window of 15 degrees from base timing angle. We found in flight
testing/research working with different timing angles, the benefits of
economy and performance of running more than a couple of degrees higher
than the stock manufacture timing setting were not all that beneficial
below 12K. And less than 1% @ altitudes above 12,500ft and less than
60% power. All performance and economy specs.show are @ the stock engine
manufacturer timing angle.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 11:29 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus
Does your system advance timing?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would be
the closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many
benefits to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product
has the best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run
half a ignition system to still have mag redunecy. Its doesn't require
back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical
system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component
fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still
continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems
together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the insall manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or Electroair
and others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until I
saw your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others? Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: timing advance |
I have to protest the allegation that conditions in the combustion
chamber would cause early failure of a magneto. BTW, Before installing
my 2nd (dual) electronic ignition I put 900 hours on a slick mag (while
running the Electroair), working perfect at the time of removal. Proper
use of the Electroair or Lightspeed systems reduces CHTs and increases
horsepower. There are many well educated pilots on this forum. Your
system may be good, but please stick to the facts.
Dale
RV6a
0-360 Electroair / Lightspeed, dual electric sys
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation 3 Ignition
To: Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 10:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: timing advance
Hello Dave,
Well first off, we all know the aircraft engine is of large
displacement, which has a very small rpm window of operation, and to top
it off also, it has very poor air/fuel atomization with a huge
combustion chamber. So, how? Well the fuel economy and extra hp comes
from the Multiple Spark Discharge (MSD). When the first firing event of
the MSD takes place, a flame front is created. As this flame front is
burning in the combustion chamber, there is a swirling turbulence that
takes place. Drawing unburned air/fuel mixture passed the spark plugs.
This is where the MSD come into play. The second and third firing event
then ignites this air/fuel mixture, which creates a quicker complete
burn of the air/fuel mixture as the piston passes through TDC. The MSD
spark is not hotter and doesn't need to be, that is why we do not use
huge spark plug air gaps. As the saying goes, screwing a 75 watt light
bulb into a 300 watt socket the bulb is not going to burn any brighter.
The others all claim to get their advantage from timing advance along
with hotter spark. The key word in the sentence is "spark" that's
singular. With one spark you need more time to get that complete
combustion since it is so slow. The only way is to ramp up (advance)
the timing close to the verge of detonation, and also deliver a hotter
spark hoping that it will have a better chance (only chance) of
ignition. With these timing advances, the cylinder pressures go up
tremendously as the piston travels towards and over TDC. This creates
more ware on engine internals from these pressures. As for a =BD and =BD
mag/electronic advance ignition system.. For example, the electronics
are firing @, let's say 35 degrees and the mag is set at 25 degrees.
Since the combustion has already started, that mag is now confronted
with firing though an incredible amount of cylinder pressure, if it can
at all. I have seen mag failure on the =BD and =BD systems. I hope this
helps some, these will be some of the topics spoken in great detail @
our booth at AirVenture this year.
Sincerely,
Thomas S.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus timing advance
So you are saying there is negligible benefit to advancing timing
greater than 25 degrees BTDC below 12,500 pressure altitude and only a
1% advantage above? Where then does the fuel economy and extra hp you
see with your system come from? The hotter spark? I am really trying
to understand all the different systems out there and yours seems to be
the easiest to install, and I like the mag back-up. But the others all
claim to get their advantage from timing advance along with hotter
spark. I'll be frank, I am torn between your system and Electroair. I
would use a single mag and the Electroair system. Sell me on yours.
Thanks!!
Dave
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus timing advance
Hello Dave,
The G3i system dose not have a timing advance built in. A timing
control module can be added which will give you a adjustable timing
window of 15 degrees from base timing angle. We found in flight
testing/research working with different timing angles, the benefits of
economy and performance of running more than a couple of degrees higher
than the stock manufacture timing setting were not all that beneficial
below 12K. And less than 1% @ altitudes above 12,500ft and less than
60% power. All performance and economy specs.show are @ the stock engine
manufacturer timing angle.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 11:29 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus
Does your system advance timing?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR would
be the closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are many
benefits to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our product
has the best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have to run
half a ignition system to still have mag redunecy. Its doesn't require
back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft electrical
system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition component
fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to still
continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition systems
together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the insall manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or
Electroair and others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair until
I saw your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others?
Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
| Subject: | Re: timing advance |
Hello Dale,
Thank for the reply, this is a great topic and has been going around the
lunchroom many times and at my chapter meetings as well as others.
Definitely do not want to step on any toes or slam other ignition
systems. This is just experience and information that I and others have
gathered over the years. The mags that I have inspected that were 1/2
and 1/2 that had failed, the failure was in the distributor block with
severe carbon tracking, resulting in miss-fire. However, I've have seen
that in the typical normal 2 mag set-up as well. The cylinder pressure
does increase when there is a earlier firing event before the mag
firing. However, this is NOT going to guarantee of an early magneto
failure though. The mag just has to work harder to ionize the spark
that's all. Now if there was already an existing problem. It would
definitely increase the chance of earlier failure of that mag/component.
Sincerely,
Thomas S.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 9:11 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: RV-List: Re: timing advance
I have to protest the allegation that conditions in the combustion
chamber would cause early failure of a magneto. BTW, Before installing
my 2nd (dual) electronic ignition I put 900 hours on a slick mag (while
running the Electroair), working perfect at the time of removal. Proper
use of the Electroair or Lightspeed systems reduces CHTs and increases
horsepower. There are many well educated pilots on this forum. Your
system may be good, but please stick to the facts.
Dale
RV6a
0-360 Electroair / Lightspeed, dual electric sys
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation 3 Ignition
To: Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 10:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: timing advance
Hello Dave,
Well first off, we all know the aircraft engine is of large
displacement, which has a very small rpm window of operation, and to top
it off also, it has very poor air/fuel atomization with a huge
combustion chamber. So, how? Well the fuel economy and extra hp comes
from the Multiple Spark Discharge (MSD). When the first firing event of
the MSD takes place, a flame front is created. As this flame front is
burning in the combustion chamber, there is a swirling turbulence that
takes place. Drawing unburned air/fuel mixture passed the spark plugs.
This is where the MSD come into play. The second and third firing event
then ignites this air/fuel mixture, which creates a quicker complete
burn of the air/fuel mixture as the piston passes through TDC. The MSD
spark is not hotter and doesn't need to be, that is why we do not use
huge spark plug air gaps. As the saying goes, screwing a 75 watt light
bulb into a 300 watt socket the bulb is not going to burn any brighter.
The others all claim to get their advantage from timing advance along
with hotter spark. The key word in the sentence is "spark" that's
singular. With one spark you need more time to get that complete
combustion since it is so slow. The only way is to ramp up (advance)
the timing close to the verge of detonation, and also deliver a hotter
spark hoping that it will have a better chance (only chance) of
ignition. With these timing advances, the cylinder pressures go up
tremendously as the piston travels towards and over TDC. This creates
more ware on engine internals from these pressures. As for a =BD and =BD
mag/electronic advance ignition system.. For example, the electronics
are firing @, let's say 35 degrees and the mag is set at 25 degrees.
Since the combustion has already started, that mag is now confronted
with firing though an incredible amount of cylinder pressure, if it can
at all. I have seen mag failure on the =BD and =BD systems. I hope this
helps some, these will be some of the topics spoken in great detail @
our booth at AirVenture this year.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus timing advance
So you are saying there is negligible benefit to advancing timing
greater than 25 degrees BTDC below 12,500 pressure altitude and only a
1% advantage above? Where then does the fuel economy and extra hp you
see with your system come from? The hotter spark? I am really trying
to understand all the different systems out there and yours seems to be
the easiest to install, and I like the mag back-up. But the others all
claim to get their advantage from timing advance along with hotter
spark. I'll be frank, I am torn between your system and Electroair. I
would use a single mag and the Electroair system. Sell me on yours.
Thanks!!
Dave
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2009 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus timing advance
Hello Dave,
The G3i system dose not have a timing advance built in. A timing
control module can be added which will give you a adjustable timing
window of 15 degrees from base timing angle. We found in flight
testing/research working with different timing angles, the benefits of
economy and performance of running more than a couple of degrees higher
than the stock manufacture timing setting were not all that beneficial
below 12K. And less than 1% @ altitudes above 12,500ft and less than
60% power. All performance and economy specs.show are @ the stock engine
manufacturer timing angle.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 11:29 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: FormContactus
Does your system advance timing?
Dave
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: FormContactus
Hello Dave,
Well, there is really no comparison, Slick/Unison LASAR
would be the closest since it still has the mag redundancy. There are
many benefits to electronic ignitions systems out there, however our
product has the best fall back on redundancy available. You don't have
to run half a ignition system to still have mag redunecy. Its doesn't
require back-up batteries to still operate if you lose the aircraft
electrical system, and/or if a sensor or some other electronic ignition
component fails, the G3i system reverts back to the original magnetos to
still continue ignition firing. The G3i system fires both ignition
systems together in perfect sync. which produces engine smoothness and
performance/economy gains. Fuel economy gains are realistically are from
8% to 14%. On static dynamotor test pulls, 2% - 5% has been record in
pounds of thrust @ 100% power. On starting the G3i provides multiple
spark to both L&R ignitions instantly in sync. making starting much
easier. Does not need 3 crankshaft revolutions to see a signal on when
to fire. Installation is straight forward and easily done. Please ck out
our website on the insall manual or give us a call about our product.
We will be in KOSH Airventure booth 1148 this year also.
Thank you for you inquiry.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:56 PM
Subject: FormContactus
> hearabout: matronics RV-10 list
> question: How does your system compare to LASAR or
Electroair and others?
> I am building an RV-10. I was considering Electroair
until I saw your product.
> Ease of install? Any better performance than others?
Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> RV-10
> Submit32: Submit
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: timing advance |
Hi Thomas,
And thank you for further info. Compliments to you for taking my opinion
in a positive way. Will be watching to learn more.
Best of luck,
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation 3 Ignition
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2009 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: timing advance
Hello Dale,
Thank for the reply, this is a great topic and has been going around
the lunchroom many times and at my chapter meetings as well as others.
Definitely do not want to step on any toes or slam other ignition
systems. This is just experience and information that I and others have
gathered over the years. The mags that I have inspected that were 1/2
and 1/2 that had failed, the failure was in the distributor block with
severe carbon tracking, resulting in miss-fire. However, I've have seen
that in the typical normal 2 mag set-up as well. The cylinder pressure
does increase when there is a earlier firing event before the mag
firing. However, this is NOT going to guarantee of an early magneto
failure though. The mag just has to work harder to ionize the spark
that's all. Now if there was already an existing problem. It would
definitely increase the chance of earlier failure of that mag/component.
Sincerely,
Thomas S.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 9:11 PM
Subject: ***SPAM***Re: RV-List: Re: timing advance
I have to protest the allegation that conditions in the combustion
chamber would cause early failure of a magneto. BTW, Before installing
my 2nd (dual) electronic ignition I put 900 hours on a slick mag (while
running the Electroair), working perfect at the time of removal. Proper
use of the Electroair or Lightspeed systems reduces CHTs and increases
horsepower. There are many well educated pilots on this forum. Your
system may be good, but please stick to the facts.
Dale
RV6a
0-360 Electroair / Lightspeed, dual electric sys
----- Original Message -----
From: Generation 3 Ignition
To: Dave Leikam
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 10:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: timing advance
Hello Dave,
Well first off, we all know the aircraft engine is of large
displacement, which has a very small rpm window of operation, and to top
it off also, it has very poor air/fuel atomization with a huge
combustion chamber. So, how? Well the fuel economy and extra hp comes
from the Multiple Spark Discharge (MSD). When the first firing event of
the MSD takes place, a flame front is created. As this flame front is
burning in the combustion chamber, there is a swirling turbulence that
takes place. Drawing unburned air/fuel mixture passed the spark plugs.
This is where the MSD come into play. The second and third firing event
then ignites this air/fuel mixture, which creates a quicker complete
burn of the air/fuel mixture as the piston passes through TDC. The MSD
spark is not hotter and doesn't need to be, that is why we do not use
huge spark plug air gaps. As the saying goes, screwing a 75 watt light
bulb into a 300 watt socket the bulb is not going to burn any brighter.
The others all claim to get their advantage from timing advance along
with hotter spark. The key word in the sentence is "spark" that's
singular. With one spark you need more time to get that complete
combustion since it is so slow. The only way is to ramp up (advance)
the timing close to the verge of detonation, and also deliver a hotter
spark hoping that it will have a better chance (only chance) of
ignition. With these timing advances, the cylinder pressures go up
tremendously as the piston travels towards and over TDC. This creates
more ware on engine internals from these pressures. As for a =BD and =BD
mag/electronic advance ignition system.. For example, the electronics
are firing @, let's say 35 degrees and the mag is set at 25 degrees.
Since the combustion has already started, that mag is now confronted
with firing though an incredible amount of cylinder pressure, if it can
at all. I have seen mag failure on the =BD and =BD systems. I hope this
helps some, these will be some of the topics spoken in great detail @
our booth at AirVenture this year.
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Mounting A Rear Throttle Quad In An RV-8... |
Maybe everyone but me found this easy to figure out, but then again maybe not.
I just finished mounting a two lever, round-y top, Dayton Murdock throttle quadrant
in the rear of the RV-8. I think it came out really nice, so I thought
I'd share. Exactly how to do it didn't seem that intuitive at first. I really
wanted a matching throttle quadrant to the front, rather than just the single
stock Van's kit.
I'm going with throttle and prop controls in the rear (no mixture) since there
isn't enough room for a three-control quadrant like in the front. Having a prop
control in the rear in liew of the mixture seems like it makes way more sense
to me.
BTW, as far as I know, Van's only sells the flat-top quadrants. There is a round-y
top version as well that is available from Aircraft Spruce. The round-y
top version of the three-lever quadrant fits WAY better in the stock mount in
the front of the RV-8. I mean WAY better.
Here's a link to my RV-8 construction site, specifically on the rear throttle quad
mount:
Page 1:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=0&log=76158&row=2
Page 2:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=dralle&project=638&category=0&log=76159&row=1
Happy building!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 / N998RV (res)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anyone got a couple of RV fuel caps for sale? |
| From: | "ACTIVE NZ - Andrew" <andrew(at)nzactive.com> |
Don't need to be new, can replace the 'O' rings....they're for my RV-4,
but I think most RV caps will fit, yeah? Will pay anything reasonable...
Feel free to email me off-list lostpianoplayer(at)hotmail.com
Thank you
Andrew Fairfax
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone got a couple of RV fuel caps for sale? |
ACTIVE NZ - Andrew wrote:
> Don't need to be new, can replace the 'O' rings....they're for my RV-4,
> but I think most RV caps will fit, yeah? Will pay anything reasonable...
>
> Feel free to email me off-list lostpianoplayer(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thank you
>
> Andrew Fairfax
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238679519-14-12&browse=am&product=fuel-cap
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | new RV-7A web site domain |
my starband domain will be going away as fast as i make it happen
the new URL for my builder's web site is
www.meyette.us/RV-7Ahome.htm
please update your bookmarks
brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel tank/burn questions |
| From: | "ACTIVE NZ - Andrew" <andrew(at)nzactive.com> |
Guys, thanks for all the kind responses re fuel caps. It's all sorted.
I have some questions which may sound nuts, but which are better asked
here than figured out in the air:
1. Has anyone heard of (early) RV-4 tanks of less than 16 gallons
capacity? I ran a tank dry today, by mistake, switched over and
landed...and when I refuelled, it only took 12.5 gallons. I've got
aerobatic baffles, so it takes a while for the fuel to settle in, but I
took my time, and 12.5 it was. I then flew on that tank for exactly an
hour (2 x 30 mins) and it ran dry AGAIN, which leads me to ask...
2. Is a fuel burn of 16 gallons an hour, WOT, 5000 feet, and leaned ROP
reasonable? I was definitely leaned out, albeit conservatively. (Don't
have the instrumentation to support LOP running). Sounds crazy to me.
Anyone care to tell me what reasonable burns in an 0-360 at altitude,
FP, might be?
3. Anything y'all can think of that might reduce the effective volume of
a fuel tank? (A leak, I thought....but can't see one - and that doesn't
explain the fact that the tank took 12.5 gallons after having been
conclusively established as empty, and unseable fuel drained.)
4. OK, now it gets really weird. Anyone ever hear of fuel caps being
"sucked" out of the wing, in flight? This happened to me y/day, and
again (other wing) 2 days prior. I am aware it sounds bizarre. The RV is
just coming off long term sitting around, cos I mainly fly my beloved
Harmon Rocket, and I wonder if it's possible that caps could get old,
and not "spread" when the lever is snapped flush with the top of the
wing.
All comments from those more experienced in RVs than me would be
welcomed. Me and my RV are just getting to know each other again, after
a long time of being unfaithful to her, in the Rocket :)
Cheers
Andrew
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 3:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone got a couple of RV fuel caps for sale?
ACTIVE NZ - Andrew wrote:
> Don't need to be new, can replace the 'O' rings....they're for my
> RV-4, but I think most RV caps will fit, yeah? Will pay anything
reasonable...
>
> Feel free to email me off-list lostpianoplayer(at)hotmail.com
>
> Thank you
>
> Andrew Fairfax
>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238679519-14-12&b
rowse=am&product=fuel-cap
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank/burn questions |
Andrew, I'm going to answer even though I'm not an experienced RVer just
yet. I am just now coming off a fuel related incident in my Pitts with
an O-360 in it. I don't believe you can eat up 16 gal of gas in an
hour. I get somewhere between 10 and 11 and hour when I'm WOT doing
aerobatics.
However things you said may point to your possible problem: If you can
suck the caps out, then you can suck fuel out too. I'd replace the
O-rings and/or adjust the cap so the caps are really tight ..... to the
point where it's hard to open. But what do I know???
Linn
ACTIVE NZ - Andrew wrote:
>
> Guys, thanks for all the kind responses re fuel caps. It's all sorted.
>
> I have some questions which may sound nuts, but which are better asked
> here than figured out in the air:
>
> 1. Has anyone heard of (early) RV-4 tanks of less than 16 gallons
> capacity? I ran a tank dry today, by mistake, switched over and
> landed...and when I refuelled, it only took 12.5 gallons. I've got
> aerobatic baffles, so it takes a while for the fuel to settle in, but I
> took my time, and 12.5 it was. I then flew on that tank for exactly an
> hour (2 x 30 mins) and it ran dry AGAIN, which leads me to ask...
>
> 2. Is a fuel burn of 16 gallons an hour, WOT, 5000 feet, and leaned ROP
> reasonable? I was definitely leaned out, albeit conservatively. (Don't
> have the instrumentation to support LOP running). Sounds crazy to me.
> Anyone care to tell me what reasonable burns in an 0-360 at altitude,
> FP, might be?
>
> 3. Anything y'all can think of that might reduce the effective volume of
> a fuel tank? (A leak, I thought....but can't see one - and that doesn't
> explain the fact that the tank took 12.5 gallons after having been
> conclusively established as empty, and unseable fuel drained.)
>
> 4. OK, now it gets really weird. Anyone ever hear of fuel caps being
> "sucked" out of the wing, in flight? This happened to me y/day, and
> again (other wing) 2 days prior. I am aware it sounds bizarre. The RV is
> just coming off long term sitting around, cos I mainly fly my beloved
> Harmon Rocket, and I wonder if it's possible that caps could get old,
> and not "spread" when the lever is snapped flush with the top of the
> wing.
>
> All comments from those more experienced in RVs than me would be
> welcomed. Me and my RV are just getting to know each other again, after
> a long time of being unfaithful to her, in the Rocket :)
>
> Cheers
>
> Andrew
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank/burn questions |
I've not heard of smaller fuel tanks - I thought the -4 and the -6 had similar
configurations....so much for what I know...
I'm breaking in a new IO360B1F6 (180hp) in my 6A with 19 gal tanks and I see 16
gph fuel flows on my engine monitor - I'm running 25.5 squared for the break-in
period. I haven't done much leaning at all as I have been doing most of my
flying at 3000' and below. The total fill up matches what the engine monitor
says.
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 8.3 hrs
-----Original Message-----
>From: ACTIVE NZ - Andrew <andrew(at)nzactive.com>
>Sent: Apr 3, 2009 3:57 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank/burn questions
>
>
>Guys, thanks for all the kind responses re fuel caps. It's all sorted.
>
>I have some questions which may sound nuts, but which are better asked
>here than figured out in the air:
>
>1. Has anyone heard of (early) RV-4 tanks of less than 16 gallons
>capacity? I ran a tank dry today, by mistake, switched over and
>landed...and when I refuelled, it only took 12.5 gallons. I've got
>aerobatic baffles, so it takes a while for the fuel to settle in, but I
>took my time, and 12.5 it was. I then flew on that tank for exactly an
>hour (2 x 30 mins) and it ran dry AGAIN, which leads me to ask...
>
>2. Is a fuel burn of 16 gallons an hour, WOT, 5000 feet, and leaned ROP
>reasonable? I was definitely leaned out, albeit conservatively. (Don't
>have the instrumentation to support LOP running). Sounds crazy to me.
>Anyone care to tell me what reasonable burns in an 0-360 at altitude,
>FP, might be?
>
>3. Anything y'all can think of that might reduce the effective volume of
>a fuel tank? (A leak, I thought....but can't see one - and that doesn't
>explain the fact that the tank took 12.5 gallons after having been
>conclusively established as empty, and unseable fuel drained.)
>
>4. OK, now it gets really weird. Anyone ever hear of fuel caps being
>"sucked" out of the wing, in flight? This happened to me y/day, and
>again (other wing) 2 days prior. I am aware it sounds bizarre. The RV is
>just coming off long term sitting around, cos I mainly fly my beloved
>Harmon Rocket, and I wonder if it's possible that caps could get old,
>and not "spread" when the lever is snapped flush with the top of the
>wing.
>
>All comments from those more experienced in RVs than me would be
>welcomed. Me and my RV are just getting to know each other again, after
>a long time of being unfaithful to her, in the Rocket :)
>
>Cheers
>
>Andrew
>
>
>________________________________________________________________________
>________________________________________________________________________
>____________________________________________________________
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
>Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 3:01 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone got a couple of RV fuel caps for sale?
>
>
>ACTIVE NZ - Andrew wrote:
>> Don't need to be new, can replace the 'O' rings....they're for my
>> RV-4, but I think most RV caps will fit, yeah? Will pay anything
>reasonable...
>>
>> Feel free to email me off-list lostpianoplayer(at)hotmail.com
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>> Andrew Fairfax
>>
>
>
>http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238679519-14-12&b
>rowse=am&product=fuel-cap
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank/burn questions |
On 3 Apr 2009, at 03:57, ACTIVE NZ - Andrew wrote:
> >
>
> Guys, thanks for all the kind responses re fuel caps. It's all sorted.
>
> I have some questions which may sound nuts, but which are better asked
> here than figured out in the air:
>
> 1. Has anyone heard of (early) RV-4 tanks of less than 16 gallons
> capacity? I ran a tank dry today, by mistake, switched over and
> landed...and when I refuelled, it only took 12.5 gallons. I've got
> aerobatic baffles, so it takes a while for the fuel to settle in,
> but I
> took my time, and 12.5 it was. I then flew on that tank for exactly an
> hour (2 x 30 mins) and it ran dry AGAIN, which leads me to ask...
>
> 2. Is a fuel burn of 16 gallons an hour, WOT, 5000 feet, and leaned
> ROP
> reasonable? I was definitely leaned out, albeit conservatively. (Don't
> have the instrumentation to support LOP running). Sounds crazy to me.
> Anyone care to tell me what reasonable burns in an 0-360 at altitude,
> FP, might be?
>
> 3. Anything y'all can think of that might reduce the effective
> volume of
> a fuel tank? (A leak, I thought....but can't see one - and that
> doesn't
> explain the fact that the tank took 12.5 gallons after having been
> conclusively established as empty, and unseable fuel drained.)
>
> 4. OK, now it gets really weird. Anyone ever hear of fuel caps being
> "sucked" out of the wing, in flight? This happened to me y/day, and
> again (other wing) 2 days prior. I am aware it sounds bizarre. The
> RV is
> just coming off long term sitting around, cos I mainly fly my beloved
> Harmon Rocket, and I wonder if it's possible that caps could get old,
> and not "spread" when the lever is snapped flush with the top of the
> wing.
>
> All comments from those more experienced in RVs than me would be
> welcomed. Me and my RV are just getting to know each other again,
> after
> a long time of being unfaithful to her, in the Rocket :)
Andrew,
Assuming the fuel tanks were built according to the plans, the tank
capacity should be pretty close to 16 USG. But, there are possible
fuel pickup issues that could cause the fuel pickup to suck air wile
there is still a lot of fuel left in the tank. Possible fuel pickup
issues are:
1. inverted fuel pickup hung up inside tank, such that it its end is
no longer at the lowest point,
2. inverted fuel pickup unscrewed at the elbow inside the forward
inboard end of the tank,
3. normal fuel pickup rotated so that its end is well above the bottom
of the tank, or
4. normal fuel pickup tube broken off.
See http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-23.pdf
In all the above cases, you would be able to drain several gallons
from the tank drain after a fuel starvation event.
One other possible cause is a fuel vent blockage that hinders the air
from entering the tank to replace the fuel that is being sucked out.
Ensure the fuel vents are completely clear.
If you can drain only a minimal amount of fuel from the drain after a
fuel starvation event, and an unusually low quantity is required to
fill the tank up, maybe there is a large quantity of solid matter in
the tank. It would be wise to remove the inspection cover on the
inboard end of the tank to do an inspection. Also inspect all fuel
filters for contamination.
Good luck,
--
Kevin Horton (Grounded)
RV-8 (Flight Test Phase)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank/burn questions |
Some of the questions have already been answered but I still would like to
throw my two cents in.
The fuel caps are kept in place by the expansion of the large 'O' ring. Th
at 'O' ring will get hard over time and not expand properly. With the low
pressure over the top of the wing in flight=2C the fuel cap and fuel can de
finitely be sucked right out of the fuel tank (been there=2C done that once
already). O-360 f normal fuel flow for 5000=2C properly leaned=2C should
be somewhere in the vicinity of 8.5 - 9.2 gallons. Obviously=2C leaning te
chniques will have quite a bit of influence on this. Also=2C whether or no
t you have any electronic ignition installed will have a bearing. With ele
ctronic ignition the fuel flow is somewhat lower.
As to the capacity of the tank=2C I totally agree with Kevin Horton. You r
eally need to pull the in-board inspection plate and take a look.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank/burn questions
> Date: Fri=2C 3 Apr 2009 20:57:23 +1300
> From: andrew(at)nzactive.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Guys=2C thanks for all the kind responses re fuel caps. It's all sorted.
>
> I have some questions which may sound nuts=2C but which are better asked
> here than figured out in the air:
>
> 1. Has anyone heard of (early) RV-4 tanks of less than 16 gallons
> capacity? I ran a tank dry today=2C by mistake=2C switched over and
> landed...and when I refuelled=2C it only took 12.5 gallons. I've got
> aerobatic baffles=2C so it takes a while for the fuel to settle in=2C but
I
> took my time=2C and 12.5 it was. I then flew on that tank for exactly an
> hour (2 x 30 mins) and it ran dry AGAIN=2C which leads me to ask...
>
> 2. Is a fuel burn of 16 gallons an hour=2C WOT=2C 5000 feet=2C and leaned
ROP
> reasonable? I was definitely leaned out=2C albeit conservatively. (Don't
> have the instrumentation to support LOP running). Sounds crazy to me.
> Anyone care to tell me what reasonable burns in an 0-360 at altitude=2C
> FP=2C might be?
>
> 3. Anything y'all can think of that might reduce the effective volume of
> a fuel tank? (A leak=2C I thought....but can't see one - and that doesn't
> explain the fact that the tank took 12.5 gallons after having been
> conclusively established as empty=2C and unseable fuel drained.)
>
> 4. OK=2C now it gets really weird. Anyone ever hear of fuel caps being
> "sucked" out of the wing=2C in flight? This happened to me y/day=2C and
> again (other wing) 2 days prior. I am aware it sounds bizarre. The RV is
> just coming off long term sitting around=2C cos I mainly fly my beloved
> Harmon Rocket=2C and I wonder if it's possible that caps could get old=2C
> and not "spread" when the lever is snapped flush with the top of the
> wing.
>
> All comments from those more experienced in RVs than me would be
> welcomed. Me and my RV are just getting to know each other again=2C after
> a long time of being unfaithful to her=2C in the Rocket :)
>
> Cheers
>
> Andrew
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ____________________________________________________________
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
> Sent: Friday=2C April 03=2C 2009 3:01 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone got a couple of RV fuel caps for sale?
>
>
> ACTIVE NZ - Andrew wrote:
> > Don't need to be new=2C can replace the 'O' rings....they're for my
> > RV-4=2C but I think most RV caps will fit=2C yeah? Will pay anything
> reasonable...
> >
> > Feel free to email me off-list lostpianoplayer(at)hotmail.com
> >
> > Thank you
> >
> > Andrew Fairfax
> >
>
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1238679519-14-12&
b
> rowse=am&product=fuel-cap
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with Internet Ex
plorer 8.
http://ie8.msn.com/microsoft/internet-explorer-8/en-us/ie8.aspx?ocid=B037
MSN55C0701A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank/burn questions |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
> it only took 12.5 gallons.
Kevin's response covers the options. Key question is if you can drain
fuel from the 'dry' tank.
If you have a fuel gauge, what does it read?
Does the alternate tank have the same issue?
Consider: (16 - 12.5) leaves 3.5 gallons in the tank. 3.5 gal is about
25% full scale on the Vans fuel gauge that is reasonably accurate at
this level, so you are most likely sucking air when fuel is about 25% up
the inboard tank rib. My money is on a loose/cracked/damaged fuel
pickup.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank/burn questions |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
>
>
> > it only took 12.5 gallons.
Wait a minute - are you in New Zealand? 12.5 Imp Gallons * 1.2 => 15
USG
You might also be losing fuel - check tank & gascolator drains under
pressure, perhaps through the poorly sealed caps.
Seems to me you are being punished for flirting with a Rocket!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wire splicing technique |
I've been using a wire splicing technique that I think works very well. As
part of doing a bunch more splicing recently, when I added my SDS ECU into
my STi engine wiring harness, I took pics & just created a new page that
shows the products and techniques used. Any feedback from it, please let
me know.
www.meyette.us/crimping.htm
hope it's helpful,
brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael" <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire splicing technique |
Just use environmental splices that we use in all of our installs that
require corrosion proof areas.
http://www.edmo.com/index.php?module=products&func=display&prod_id=
18889&disp=desc&cat_id=440
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Meyette
To: Brian Meyette
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 1:35 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wire splicing technique
I've been using a wire splicing technique that I think works very
well. As part of doing a bunch more splicing recently, when I added my
SDS ECU into my STi engine wiring harness, I took pics & just created a
new page that shows the products and techniques used. Any feedback
from it, please let me know.
www.meyette.us/crimping.htm
hope it's helpful,
brian
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire splicing technique |
Brian Meyette wrote:
> I've been using a wire splicing technique that I think works very
> well. As part of doing a bunch more splicing recently, when I added
> my SDS ECU into my STi engine wiring harness, I took pics & just
> created a new page that shows the products and techniques used. Any
> feedback from it, please let me know.
Excellent! The only thing I can add is that you can get round lacing
cord (so you don't have to keep 'untwisting' the flat cord) ...... look
for 'rib stitch' cord .... used to stitch the fabric to wing ribs.
Linn
> www.meyette.us/crimping.htm <http://www.meyette.us/crimping.htm>
> hope it's helpful,
> brian
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank/burn questions |
first of all my money is with Doug's Imperial answer.
As to cap sucking. My six has blown (had sucked) off a couple tank
caps over the years. I now carry a spare with me. In my case they
were left loose, either by the fueler or by me.
The good news is that in coordinated flight and reasonable attitudes
and speeds, the fuel quits drooling after only a half gallon or so.
I should add that I have also fliight checked another fascinating
condition, which is having the fuel cap slightly cocked in the
receptacle, but latched snug. This can also result in fuel going
overboard, due to the aforementioned low pressure area over the cap.
Again the fuel drool stops after a short time in coordinated flight,
most likely because of the fortuitous dihedral of the Van's wing.
Denis
On Apr 3, 2009, at 2:24 , Doug Gray wrote:
>>
>>> it only took 12.5 gallons.
>
> Wait a minute - are you in New Zealand? 12.5 Imp Gallons * 1.2 =>
> 15 USG
>
> You might also be losing fuel - check tank & gascolator drains under
> pressure, perhaps through the poorly sealed caps.
>
> Seems to me you are being punished for flirting with a Rocket!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Clarification on fuel tank issue |
| From: | "ACTIVE NZ - Andrew" <andrew(at)nzactive.com> |
Thx for all the input...much appreciated.
Yep, I'm in NZ. We work in litres, but I translated to US gallons (not
imperial).
Yep, I'm probably being punished for flirting with a Rocket, but it's
been a wicked flirtation :) And my Rocket has given me >500 trouble free
hours till first major problem -now AOG, hence dusting off RV-4.
On the other hand, I've had the RV4 for about 10 years, and have had
more problems than I care to count, including TWO full, to-the-ground,
engine failures. We're pretty sure the cause was carb icing, (plenty of
fuel in tanks and carb bowl, mags OK, etc etc) and new carb heat system
now installed. I mention this, in case it's relevant to current case.
Fuel gauges are U/S, so no reading available. Don't know about
alternative tank yet - will be investigating shortly.
To be clear, I DID drain remaing fuel after the fuel starvation event,
through fuel tank drain, and it was less than half a gallon at the very
most - that tank was EMPTY. And it took 50 liters, taking several
minutes cos of the aero baffles, which I guesstimated to 12.5 gallons.
Just looked it up - 50 litres is actually a shade over US 13 gallons.
I guess I'll inspecting the interior of the tank, although this all
seems inexplicable at the mo. And, NB, even with only taking 13 gallons,
not 16, it sounds like she shouldn't have burned anything like that in
an hour??
Will investigate all the suggestions given. Feel free to email me, on or
off-list, if this cluster of symptoms lights up any sudden Eureka
moments.
andrew
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Gray
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank/burn questions
it only took 12.5 gallons.
Kevin's response covers the options. Key question is if you can drain
fuel from the 'dry' tank.
If you have a fuel gauge, what does it read?
Does the alternate tank have the same issue?
Consider: (16 - 12.5) leaves 3.5 gallons in the tank. 3.5 gal is about
25% full scale on the Vans fuel gauge that is reasonably accurate at
this level, so you are most likely sucking air when fuel is about 25% up
the inboard tank rib. My money is on a loose/cracked/damaged fuel
pickup.
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Clarification on fuel tank issue |
Actually it is easy to put 13 gal through an O-360 per hour at WOT if
you are not leaned aggressively.
What RPM are you seeing at 5000 ft at WOT? My RV-6 with an O-360 fixed
pitch well easily burn 10
GPH @ 2500 rpm if not leaned heavily. I have been flying it just a
couple months short of 20 years so
have a pretty good idea of fuel burn :)
ACTIVE NZ - Andrew wrote:
> Thx for all the input...much appreciated.
>
> Yep, I'm in NZ. We work in litres, but I translated to US gallons (not
> imperial).
>
> Yep, I'm probably being punished for flirting with a Rocket, but it's
> been a wicked flirtation :) And my Rocket has given me >500 trouble
> free hours till first major problem -now AOG, hence dusting off RV-4.
>
> On the other hand, I've had the RV4 for about 10 years, and have had
> more problems than I care to count, including TWO full, to-the-ground,
> engine failures. We're pretty sure the cause was carb icing, (plenty
> of fuel in tanks and carb bowl, mags OK, etc etc) and new carb heat
> system now installed. I mention this, in case it's relevant to current
> case.
>
> Fuel gauges are U/S, so no reading available. Don't know about
> alternative tank yet - will be investigating shortly.
>
> To be clear, I DID drain remaing fuel after the fuel starvation event,
> through fuel tank drain, and it was less than half a gallon at the
> very most - that tank was EMPTY. And it took 50 liters, taking several
> minutes cos of the aero baffles, which I guesstimated to 12.5 gallons.
> Just looked it up - 50 litres is actually a shade over US 13 gallons.
>
> I guess I'll inspecting the interior of the tank, although this
> all seems inexplicable at the mo. And, NB, even with only taking 13
> gallons, not 16, it sounds like she shouldn't have burned anything
> like that in an hour??
>
> Will investigate all the suggestions given. Feel free to email me, on
> or off-list, if this cluster of symptoms lights up any sudden Eureka
> moments.
>
>
> andrew
>
> **
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Doug Gray
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 04, 2009 9:15 AM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Fuel tank/burn questions
>
>> it only took 12.5 gallons.
> Kevin's response covers the options. Key question is if you can drain
> fuel from the 'dry' tank.
>
> If you have a fuel gauge, what does it read?
> Does the alternate tank have the same issue?
>
> Consider: (16 - 12.5) leaves 3.5 gallons in the tank. 3.5 gal is about
> 25% full scale on the Vans fuel gauge that is reasonably accurate at
> this level, so you are most likely sucking air when fuel is about 25%
> up the inboard tank rib. My money is on a loose/cracked/damaged fuel
> pickup.
>
> Doug
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | bolting wings on RV-6A |
I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is
done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100
little things and it will fly.
The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on
them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in
place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right
where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most
inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side
of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The
misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or
even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those holes in the
weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and
slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re-
install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16
drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right
angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is
this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes
in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?
--
Almost There....
RV-6A N811WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
thomas sargent wrote:
>
> I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is
> done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
> painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100
> little things and it will fly.
>
> The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on
> them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in
> place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right
> where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most
> inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side
> of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The
> misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or
> even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those holes in the
> weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
>
> I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and
> slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then
> re-install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16
> drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right
> angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is
> this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes
> in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?
>
> --
> Almost There....
> RV-6A N811WT
Call Van's.
or
Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on them
to start through the weldment?
or
Call Van's.
(hint, hint)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Orear <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
I had similar trouble. I just carefully used a reamer and all was
well. Congrats on getting things buttoned up!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
On Apr 4, 2009, at 7:13 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
>
> I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system
> is done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
> painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100
> little things and it will fly.
>
> The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on
> them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins
> in place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge -
> right where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the
> most inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the
> aft side of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the
> weldment. The misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the
> bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those
> holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
>
> I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and
> slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then
> re-install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a
> 3/16 drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a
> right angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the
> weldment. Is this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to
> damage the holes in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong
> tree entirely?
>
> --
> Almost There....
> RV-6A N811WT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
Charlie:
Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you
suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it
work.
>
> Call Van's.
> or
> Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on
> them to start through the weldment?
> or
> Call Van's.
> (hint, hint)
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | bolting wings on RV-6A |
Thomas, when I encountered a similar problem, I took my rivet gun and put
the pressure on about 40 psi and put a flat head on it. I found that the
small amplitude, but high frequency vibration worked the bolts through very
easily. Might give it a try.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com
http://www.andersonee.com
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
http://www.flyrotary.com/
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A
Charlie:
Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you
suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it
work.
>
> Call Van's.
> or
> Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on
> them to start through the weldment?
> or
> Call Van's.
> (hint, hint)
>
> Charlie
>
>
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3267 (20080714) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3267 (20080714) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | bolting wings on RV-6A |
| From: | "John Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Use a brass (never steel) drift against the bolt shaft to remove
it/them. Heat the receiver to 200-250 degrees using a Heat/Shrink gun
for about 20 minutes prior to REINSERTION. Place the attachment bolts
in a plastic sandwich bag inside a small six pack cooler with industrial
grade dry ice for at least four hours. The attachment is a "Close
Tolerance" fit. We use liquid nitrogen at work, but unless your girl
friend works for a dermatology clinic on Sunday that will be a stretch
for most builders. Our heat gun can do a constant 950degrees and
beyond. Don't know the wattage of Harbor Freight units.
Patience is a virtue. Good Luck. If they do not go in with less force
you will begin galling of the fastener shaft, scoring and removal of the
cadmium plating. It is easy to read attachment bolts that have been
force fitted during Tech Inspections. Hopefully you used a ream of the
correct size to prep the receiver.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A
Charlie:
Yes, of course, but I can't call Van's until Monday. I Tried what you
suggest about applying pressure while turning, but couldn't make it
work.
>
> Call Van's.
> or
> Can you get them in by turning them while putting some pressure on
> them to start through the weldment?
> or
> Call Van's.
> (hint, hint)
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on landing. I have
tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures and
varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get the shimmy
on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my landing speed.
On
take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going to
shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
**************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a
recession.
(http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Have you verified that the tire is balanced and not out of round?
Have someone competent observe the tire upon landing. The
difference between shimmy and out of round/out of balance is
obvious.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
You may want to use the Matco axle for the nose gear. That way you can
pre-load the bearings just enough - letting the wheel spin easily, but still
fully torque the axle nut.
Here is the link
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
Get the wheel balance weights from them as well.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 10:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on landing. I
have tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures
and varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get
the shimmy on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my landing
speed. On take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going to
shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
_____
Worried about job security? Check
<http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare0000000
3> out the 5 safest jobs in a recession.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
| From: | bert murillo <bertrv6(at)gmail.com> |
Thomas:
I do not recall, when I built mine, that I could not draw the bolts
in...I know they are very\
tight, but as you they are all close tolerance bolts for ovious reasons...
I would \ not enlarge any holes, I suggest calling Vans, and get a
second opinion, before
going forward,,.
If I recalled, I think I use a heavy, long piece of wood, cut
specifically to fit thru the space,
and then with a heavy hammer, I was able insert the bolts completely,
but I am doing this
by memory, after 6 years....of course they have to be perfectly
aligned, a very little dab of
vaseline, only on thefirst thre or four threads, would help, be sure
to clean them after, before
the nut...
Hope give you some ideas.
good luck.
bert
rv6a
do noat archive
On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 8:13 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
>
> I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is done,
> the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all painted. I just
> have to screw it all together, take care of 100 little things and it will
> fly.
>
> The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on them) and
> the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in place EXCEPT for
> the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right where the gear leg
> penetrates the fuselage. These are the most inaccessible holes. Inserting
> bolts in these holes from the aft side of the spar go thru pretty easily and
> stop hard at the weldment. The misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't
> get the bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those
> holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
>
> I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and slightly
> enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re-install. I
> hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16 drill bit will slide
> thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right angle drill I could just
> drill out those holes in the weldment. Is this an acceptable practice, or
> is it too likely to damage the holes in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking
> up the wrong tree entirely?
>
> --
> Almost There....
> RV-6A N811WT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
--- On Sun, 4/5/09, Rick Galati wrote:
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: bolting wings on RV-6A
Date: Sunday, April 5, 2009, 5:31 AM
Tom,
-
I'd sure be reluctant to ream the holes. The landing gear weldments are att
ached to the spar mostly with AD3 bolts, NOT-close tolerance bolts.- Th
e fact is, at some point you did drill those holes through the weldments so
at least during that drill out operation the holes lined up.- Note exact
ly which holes don't line up-prompting you to post a message. Then start
the installation process all over by removing the fasteners attaching the w
eldment, including the ones on the fuselage side. When the weldment is comp
letely free,-reinstall it by inserting the first bolt through a hole that
does not now line up. Then, strategically insert a number of the bolts-a
nd/or drift pins into a number of holes-along the weldment leaving-all
loose.- Just barely start a nut on the first thread or two of- the bolt
s and do not run any of then down until you are sure the mismatch has been
worked out.-
-
Rick Galati- RV-6A- "Darla!"
RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | bolting wings on RV-6A |
Thomas;
If I understand you correctly, these are not the close tolerance bolts in
the center section. If you end up removing the weldment from the plane, you
can have the holes welded shut, then re-assemble and re-drill the holes
using a drill guide and appropriate reamer.
How are you supporting the ship while you mount the wings?
Marty
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A
I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is
done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100
little things and it will fly.
The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on
them) and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in
place EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right
where the gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most
inaccessible holes. Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side
of the spar go thru pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The
misalignment isn't real obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or
even drive a tapered pin thru. So, I guess those holes in the
weldment need to be enlarged very slightly.
I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and
slightly enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re-
install. I hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16
drill bit will slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right
angle drill I could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is
this an acceptable practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes
in the aluminum spar? Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?
--
Almost There....
RV-6A N811WT
Marty
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Kim,
I found that once I upgraded the nose wheel fork on my 6A
per the SB the nose wheel shimmy was much worse (never had a problem
before). I think there might be something in the geometry that makes it
more prone to shimmy. Because I was going on 6 years with the same nose
wheel I decided to replace the tire and at the same time have it
balanced. It made a big difference in the shimmy. I don't believe my old
tire was out of round but probably out of balance. I concur with Carl
that upgrading to the Matco axel is an additional improvement that
should help and for $50.00 it's a no brainer. I have one on my -10 and
plan to put one on my 8A.
BTW this is something you want to resolve soon as when the
shimmy is bad it can really damage the wheel pants quickly.
Good luck
Robin
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
You may want to use the Matco axle for the nose gear. That way you can
pre-load the bearings just enough - letting the wheel spin easily, but
still fully torque the axle nut.
Here is the link
http://www.matcomfg.com/AXLEASSEMBLYA24125INCH-idv-3657-1.html
Get the wheel balance weights from them as well.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (450 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 10:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on
landing. I have tried various torque settings on the axel, different
tire pressures and varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel
"pivot". I still get the shimmy on landing - note that it does not
occur on takeoff, and I have intentionally allowed my take off speed on
the runway to exceed my landing speed. On take off it does not shimmy,
only on landing.
Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going
to shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
________________________________
Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession
<http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00
0
00003> .
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/03/09 17:54:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hand" <chris_hand(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
How do you have the plane supported while doing this?
I had similar problems but was trying to put the remaining bolts in while
the plane was on the gear with only the side bolts and some of the
weldment/spar bolts installed. I was able to resolve by taking the weight
off that main gear when installing those bolts which allowed just enough
shifting of the weldment to allow the holes to line up as originally drilled
a number of years earlier. There was a difference in hole alignment with
weight on the gear as opposed to upside down in the jig without even the
wheels on when the weldments were drilled to the spar.
With the wheel in the air, the methods described in earlier replies worked
for me (turning and/or pressing in).
Chris
RV-6A, almost done with phase I
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 5:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: bolting wings on RV-6A
>
> I am bolting on the wings for the last time - the electrical system is
> done, the engine installed, the fiberglass done and it's even all
> painted. I just have to screw it all together, take care of 100 little
> things and it will fly.
>
> The left gear weldment has about 75% of the bolts in (no nuts on them)
> and the rest of the holes in the weldment have locator pins in place
> EXCEPT for the two outboard AN3 bolts at the lower edge - right where the
> gear leg penetrates the fuselage. These are the most inaccessible holes.
> Inserting bolts in these holes from the aft side of the spar go thru
> pretty easily and stop hard at the weldment. The misalignment isn't real
> obvious, but I can't get the bolts thru or even drive a tapered pin thru.
> So, I guess those holes in the weldment need to be enlarged very
> slightly.
>
> I could take all the bolts and pins out, remove the weldment and slightly
> enlarge or elongate those 2 holes in the weldment and then re- install. I
> hate to do all that over again. I noticed that a 3/16 drill bit will
> slide thru the holes in the spar easily. With a right angle drill I
> could just drill out those holes in the weldment. Is this an acceptable
> practice, or is it too likely to damage the holes in the aluminum spar?
> Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?
>
> --
> Almost There....
> RV-6A N811WT
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
Marty:
Yes, you are correct. That would work and be the best from an
engineering standpoint. A lot of time and work, though. I think it's
so close already that I'll try a couple other things first.
The ship is supported on the right side by the landing gear installed
with a wooden "false spar" and on the left with a saw horse under the
bottom edge of the fire wall and another under the left rear wing spar
attach point. The left wing is supported by a saw horse out near the
wing tip with a padded, hinged piece on it. It's all freshly painted,
so I have to take care to protect the paint.
On Apr 5, 2009, at 7:16 AM, Emrath wrote:
>
> Thomas;
>
> If I understand you correctly, these are not the close tolerance
> bolts in
> the center section. If you end up removing the weldment from the
> plane, you
> can have the holes welded shut, then re-assemble and re-drill the
> holes
> using a drill guide and appropriate reamer.
> How are you supporting the ship while you mount the wings?
> Marty
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
Sending this again - it went just to Rick and I intended it for the
whole list.
Rick:
The gear weldments were delivered to me with almost all the holes
already drilled. I drilled (or drilled out - it's been years and I
don't remember) some of the holes that go thru the side of the
fuselage, but none that go thru the spar. The holes for the 2 AN3
bolts I wrote my post about can only be drilled from the rear when the
spar is drilled, so these were done by Van's.
I have never understood why the gear weldment holes all line up so
poorly. It's as though they drilled them in the steel parts and THEN
welded the steel parts together to make the weldment and it warped a
bit. I have had to "adjust" nearly all the AN3 holes in the weldment,
as I understand most RV-6A builders have. I've had several
conversations with van's about this in the past. They just told me to
get a small rat-tail file and make them fit. I have never put the 2
AN3 bolts in question in before, so these 2 holes didn't get "fixed".
The method you describe is reasonable and may work, although it would
be time consuming; there's lots of different bolt install sequences
and there may be some that work better . Adjusting the loading on the
gear may shift it slightly too.
I've been at this for 11 years already. I managed to use up that many
calendars by doing things in very time consuming ways. Being this
close to the end I'd rather not give up any ground unless I absolutely
have to.
On Apr 5, 2009, at 3:31 AM, Rick Galati wrote:
> Tom,
>
> I'd sure be reluctant to ream the holes. The landing gear weldments
> are attached to the spar mostly with AD3 bolts, NOT close tolerance
> bolts. The fact is, at some point you did drill those holes through
> the weldments so at least during that drill out operation the holes
> lined up. Note exactly which holes don't line up prompting you to
> post a message. Then start the installation process all over by
> removing the fasteners attaching the weldment, including the ones on
> the fuselage side. When the weldment is completely free, reinstall
> it by inserting the first bolt through a hole that does not now line
> up. Then, strategically insert a number of the bolts and/or drift
> pins into a number of holes along the weldment leaving all loose.
> Just barely start a nut on the first thread or two of the bolts and
> do not run any of then down until you are sure the mismatch has been
> worked out.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla!"
> RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bolting wings on RV-6A |
Chris:
The wheel is dangling in the air, by only about 1/2", but it's
dangling. The plane's up on saw horses as I described in my last
post. I can put some load on it by shoving a wedge under the wheel.
It also occurred to me that I could deflate the tire, put a thick
board under it and then re-inflate to some degree to adjust the amount
of load it's bearing. I think I'll experiment with that this afternoon.
On Apr 5, 2009, at 9:42 AM, Chris Hand wrote:
>
> How do you have the plane supported while doing this?
> I had similar problems but was trying to put the remaining bolts in
> while the plane was on the gear with only the side bolts and some of
> the weldment/spar bolts installed. I was able to resolve by taking
> the weight off that main gear when installing those bolts which
> allowed just enough shifting of the weldment to allow the holes to
> line up as originally drilled a number of years earlier. There was
> a difference in hole alignment with weight on the gear as opposed to
> upside down in the jig without even the wheels on when the weldments
> were drilled to the spar.
> With the wheel in the air, the methods described in earlier replies
> worked for me (turning and/or pressing in).
>
> Chris
> RV-6A, almost done with phase I
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
I have had exactly the same nose wheel shimmy that you describe. The
shimmy was the result of more than one problem.
I originally had a vertical nose shimmy confirmed by outside
observers. It only occurred after landing. I checked for out of round
and balance and both were perfect. I found that the nose wheel itself
would not spin more than a quarter turn regardless of the torque
setting on the axle bolt. After nose wheel touchdown after landing,
the tight wheel caused the strut to flex aft and rebound, which lifted
the wheel back off the runway. Once off the ground it quickly stopped
spinning and the action repeated itself causing the vertical shimmy
until I slowed considerably. I switched from Van's supplied nose wheel
to a Grove wheel that would spin freely regardless of axle torque.
That solved the vertical shimmy problem.
However, I still occasionally had a lateral shimmy at taxi speeds.
Tightening the strut/fork pivot bolt beyond Van's recommendations
helped, but did not completely solve the problem and the shimmy
gradually got worse. I found that even with the axle bolt torqued to
the max, the nose wheel still had a slight amount of lateral play on
the axle. The answer to that was carefully grinding about a sixteenth
inch off the sleeve between the hubs of the Grove wheel. The wheel now
has zero lateral play and still turns freely.
Lastly, I found that the nose strut itself was rotating in the motor
mount sleeve. The rotation amounted to nearly a quarter of an inch
lateral play at the bottom of the tire. The retaining bolt at the top
of the strut was not tight enough and the NAS bolt had wallowed out
the motor mount holes. A temporary fix was to add a couple of washers
to the bolt and tighten it beyond torque recommendations. So far, that
stopped the shimmy.
The loose strut obviously added to the increased shimmy problems. At
some future time, I'll have to take action to repair the oversized
hole. I suspect that the hole enlargement was caused by the vibration
of the strut which was caused by the other shimmy inducing problems.
Recommendations:
Replace Van's supplied nose wheel with a Grove wheel.
Ensure no lateral play of the nose wheel on the axle.
Ensure the nose wheel will spin a couple of turns easily.
Increase the torque on the strut/fork pivot bolt.
Check for the slightest rotation of the nose strut at the motor mount.
Check the nose strut bolt torque (and continue to check frequently.)
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on
landing. I have
tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures
and
varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get
the shimmy
on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my
landing speed.
On
take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is
going to
shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
Gentlemen:
I have an RV-9A with and Aero Sport 160 hp O-320 with a Sensenich fixed
pitch prop and a 2 1/4 spacer. Today I hung the prop and spacer on the
engine and torqued the 7/16ths bolts to 40 ft lbs.
I raised the nose strut and rested it on a block to keep the nose from
moving. The top spark plugs were removed.
I set up a heavy camera tripod and attached a probe to touch the aft
edge of the prop about 3 inches from the end of the prop. I've rotated
the prop a number of times and the deviation between the two blades is
.02 inches.
Am I in the ball park on this? I could rotate the spacer 180 degrees to
the prop and try again. I could rotate the prop and spacer in relation
to the engine. Is it normal to be able to get the tracking closer?
Suggestions are welcome - I need to get this squared away before I
proceed too far with the spinner.
Many thanks...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A N95JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " Bruce Bell" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
Question! What does it do at the very tip of the prop? Try that! BBB
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe & Jan Connell
To: RV-List
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 3:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking
Gentlemen:
I have an RV-9A with and Aero Sport 160 hp O-320 with a Sensenich
fixed pitch prop and a 2 1/4 spacer. Today I hung the prop and spacer
on the engine and torqued the 7/16ths bolts to 40 ft lbs.
I raised the nose strut and rested it on a block to keep the nose from
moving. The top spark plugs were removed.
I set up a heavy camera tripod and attached a probe to touch the aft
edge of the prop about 3 inches from the end of the prop. I've rotated
the prop a number of times and the deviation between the two blades is
.02 inches.
Am I in the ball park on this? I could rotate the spacer 180 degrees
to the prop and try again. I could rotate the prop and spacer in
relation to the engine. Is it normal to be able to get the tracking
closer?
Suggestions are welcome - I need to get this squared away before I
proceed too far with the spinner.
Many thanks...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A N95JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Gentlemen:
>
1/16" or less and you are good to go.
> I have an RV-9A with and Aero Sport 160 hp O-320 with a Sensenich
> fixed pitch prop and a 2 1/4 spacer. Today I hung the prop and spacer
> on the engine and torqued the 7/16ths bolts to 40 ft lbs.
>
> I raised the nose strut and rested it on a block to keep the nose from
> moving. The top spark plugs were removed.
>
> I set up a heavy camera tripod and attached a probe to touch the aft
> edge of the prop about 3 inches from the end of the prop. I've
> rotated the prop a number of times and the deviation between the two
> blades is .02 inches.
>
> Am I in the ball park on this? I could rotate the spacer 180 degrees
> to the prop and try again. I could rotate the prop and spacer in
> relation to the engine. Is it normal to be able to get the tracking
> closer?
>
> Suggestions are welcome - I need to get this squared away before I
> proceed too far with the spinner.
>
> Many thanks...
>
> Joe Connell
> Stewartville, MN
> RV-9A N95JJ
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Charles Brame wrote:
> I have had exactly the same nose wheel shimmy that you describe. The
> shimmy was the result of more than one problem.
>
> I originally had a vertical nose shimmy
Maybe we can call this 'bounce' to differentiate with shimmy?
> confirmed by outside observers. It only occurred after landing. I
> checked for out of round and balance and both were perfect. I found
> that the nose wheel itself would not spin more than a quarter turn
> regardless of the torque setting on the axle bolt. After nose wheel
> touchdown after landing, the tight wheel caused the strut to flex aft
> and rebound, which lifted the wheel back off the runway. Once off the
> ground it quickly stopped spinning and the action repeated itself
> causing the vertical shimmy until I slowed considerably. I switched
> from Van's supplied nose wheel to a Grove wheel that would spin freely
> regardless of axle torque. That solved the vertical shimmy problem.
>
> However, I still occasionally had a lateral shimmy
True shimmy.
> at taxi speeds. Tightening the strut/fork pivot bolt beyond Van's
> recommendations helped, but did not completely solve the problem and
> the shimmy gradually got worse.
This will happen while the new belleville washers 'wear in' ....... I
guess shimmy would help lessen the wear-in time! :-P
> I found that even with the axle bolt torqued to the max, the nose
> wheel still had a slight amount of lateral play on the axle. The
> answer to that was carefully grinding about a sixteenth inch off the
> sleeve between the hubs of the Grove wheel. The wheel now has zero
> lateral play and still turns freely.
>
> Lastly, I found that the nose strut itself was rotating in the motor
> mount sleeve. The rotation amounted to nearly a quarter of an inch
> lateral play at the bottom of the tire. The retaining bolt at the top
> of the strut was not tight enough and the NAS bolt had wallowed out
> the motor mount holes. A temporary fix was to add a couple of washers
> to the bolt and tighten it beyond torque recommendations. So far, that
> stopped the shimmy.
Boring out the strut/mount for the next size bolt would be a better
'repair'. With the elongated holes, the strut will move back and forth
over time making things worse.
> The loose strut obviously added to the increased shimmy problems. At
> some future time, I'll have to take action to repair the oversized
> hole. I suspect that the hole enlargement was caused by the vibration
> of the strut which was caused by the other shimmy inducing problems.
I think you're right.
> Recommendations:
>
> Replace Van's supplied nose wheel with a Grove wheel
The new axle/hub should do also.
> Ensure no lateral play of the nose wheel on the axle.
> Ensure the nose wheel will spin a couple of turns easily.
This is contrary to what I've been told. 1/2 turn is sufficient
pre-load on the bearings. Otherwise the wheel tends to vibrate (may
take some time) as it slows down.
> Increase the torque on the strut/fork pivot bolt.
> Check for the slightest rotation of the nose strut at the motor mount.
> Check the nose strut bolt torque (and continue to check frequently.)
All good items!
Linn
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
> From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com <mailto:Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
>
> I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
>
> This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
> bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on
> landing. I have
>
> tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures and
> varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get
> the shimmy
>
> on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
> intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my
> landing speed.
> On
> take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
>
> Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is
> going to
> shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Auburn, WA
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Linn,
Just curious why you haven't considered using a taper pin (bolt) at the top of
the nose wheel strut. Several folks with the little wheel at the proper end have
had problems with the tail wheel spring working loose at the anti-rotation
bolt (the set up looks like the nose wheel strut only slightly smaller) and corrected
this by reaming the mount hole and installing a taper pin.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 565 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 5:20:50 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
Charles Brame wrote:
I have had exactly the same nose wheel shimmy that you describe. The shimmy was
the result of more than one problem.
I originally had a vertical nose shimmy Maybe we can call this 'bounce' to differentiate
with shimmy?
confirmed by outside observers. It only occurred after landing. I checked for out
of round and balance and both were perfect. I found that the nose wheel itself
would not spin more than a quarter turn regardless of the torque setting on
the axle bolt. After nose wheel touchdown after landing, the tight wheel caused
the strut to flex aft and rebound, which lifted the wheel back off the runway.
Once off the ground it quickly stopped spinning and the action repeated itself
causing the vertical shimmy until I slowed considerably. I switched from
Van's supplied nose wheel to a Grove wheel that would spin freely regardless
of axle torque. That solved the vertical shimmy problem.
However, I still occasionally had a lateral shimmy True shimmy.
at taxi speeds. Tightening the strut/fork pivot bolt beyond Van's recommendations
helped, but did not completely solve the problem and the shimmy gradually got
worse. This will happen while the new belleville washers 'wear in' .......
I guess shimmy would help lessen the wear-in time! :-P
I found that even with the axle bolt torqued to the max, the nose wheel still had
a slight amount of lateral play on the axle. The answer to that was carefully
grinding about a sixteenth inch off the sleeve between the hubs of the Grove
wheel. The wheel now has zero lateral play and still turns freely.
Lastly, I found that the nose strut itself was rotating in the motor mount sleeve.
The rotation amounted to nearly a quarter of an inch lateral play at the bottom
of the tire. The retaining bolt at the top of the strut was not tight enough
and the NAS bolt had wallowed out the motor mount holes. A temporary fix
was to add a couple of washers to the bolt and tighten it beyond torque recommendations.
So far, that stopped the shimmy.
Boring out the strut/mount for the next size bolt would be a better 'repair'. With
the elongated holes, the strut will move back and forth over time making things
worse.
The loose strut obviously added to the increased shimmy problems. At some future
time, I'll have to take action to repair the oversized hole. I suspect that
the hole enlargement was caused by the vibration of the strut which was caused
by the other shimmy inducing problems.
I think you're right.
Recommendations:
Replace Van's supplied nose wheel with a Grove wheel The new axle/hub should do
also.
Ensure no lateral play of the nose wheel on the axle.
Ensure the nose wheel will spin a couple of turns easily. This is contrary to what
I've been told. 1/2 turn is sufficient pre-load on the bearings. Otherwise
the wheel tends to vibrate (may take some time) as it slows down.
Increase the torque on the strut/fork pivot bolt.
Check for the slightest rotation of the nose strut at the motor mount.
Check the nose strut bolt torque (and continue to check frequently.) All good items!
Linn
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------
From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on landing. I have
tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures and
varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still get the shimmy
on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my landing speed.
On
take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is going to
shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A
Auburn, WA href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
This is as good a run down as I have seen. I have around 4000
landings on my 6A, and can verify all these observations. I, too am
inclined to think the new fork assembly is more prone to shake. I too
like the matco assembly, but am sticking with my old original
Cleveland wheel and axle as furnished in 1994 or so.
I have three things to add:
1. Sometimes just increasing or decreasing the nose tire pressure
will help.
2. VERY IMPORTANT to get an observers notes. Frequently the problem
is main wheel shake, which can start the nose going, or vice versa.
3. Regarding the "upper bolt hogging out the holes at top of strut
mount" problem. Most RVs I have seen eventually develop this
problem. My latest quick fix seems to be working quite well. Got a
fender washer with the right size hole. Put it in a vice and beat it
into a curved radius to match the weldment where the strut goes
through. Installed a new bolt with the big ass curved washer under
the head. torqued it down. \\
I made the curvature a little more than matching to get a springy
fit. Voila I now have a new hole at the top which has a very snug fit
(the washer hole shrunk a little laterally when bent), and the
rotational slop is gone..
Hoping it will last a year or so, then I can replace the washer and/or
install another on the bottom.
On Apr 5, 2009, at 2:17 , Charles Brame wrote:
> I have had exactly the same nose wheel shimmy that you describe. The
> shimmy was the result of more than one problem.
>
> I originally had a vertical nose shimmy confirmed by outside
> observers. It only occurred after landing. I checked for out of
> round and balance and both were perfect. I found that the nose wheel
> itself would not spin more than a quarter turn regardless of the
> torque setting on the axle bolt. After nose wheel touchdown after
> landing, the tight wheel caused the strut to flex aft and rebound,
> which lifted the wheel back off the runway. Once off the ground it
> quickly stopped spinning and the action repeated itself causing the
> vertical shimmy until I slowed considerably. I switched from Van's
> supplied nose wheel to a Grove wheel that would spin freely
> regardless of axle torque. That solved the vertical shimmy problem.
>
> However, I still occasionally had a lateral shimmy at taxi speeds.
> Tightening the strut/fork pivot bolt beyond Van's recommendations
> helped, but did not completely solve the problem and the shimmy
> gradually got worse. I found that even with the axle bolt torqued to
> the max, the nose wheel still had a slight amount of lateral play on
> the axle. The answer to that was carefully grinding about a
> sixteenth inch off the sleeve between the hubs of the Grove wheel.
> The wheel now has zero lateral play and still turns freely.
>
> Lastly, I found that the nose strut itself was rotating in the motor
> mount sleeve. The rotation amounted to nearly a quarter of an inch
> lateral play at the bottom of the tire. The retaining bolt at the
> top of the strut was not tight enough and the NAS bolt had wallowed
> out the motor mount holes. A temporary fix was to add a couple of
> washers to the bolt and tighten it beyond torque recommendations. So
> far, that stopped the shimmy.
>
> The loose strut obviously added to the increased shimmy problems. At
> some future time, I'll have to take action to repair the oversized
> hole. I suspect that the hole enlargement was caused by the
> vibration of the strut which was caused by the other shimmy inducing
> problems.
>
> Recommendations:
>
> Replace Van's supplied nose wheel with a Grove wheel.
> Ensure no lateral play of the nose wheel on the axle.
> Ensure the nose wheel will spin a couple of turns easily.
> Increase the torque on the strut/fork pivot bolt.
> Check for the slightest rotation of the nose strut at the motor mount.
> Check the nose strut bolt torque (and continue to check frequently.)
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
> ----------------------------------------
>
>
> From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com
> Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
>
> I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some
> help.
>
> This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's
> service
> bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on
> landing. I have
>
> tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire
> pressures and
> varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still
> get the shimmy
>
> on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
> intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my
> landing speed.
> On
> take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
>
> Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is
> going to
> shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A
> Auburn, WA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Well, I really didn't think of that ...... and the choice would be
determined by the amount of damage in the wallowed out holes and if
they're different on either side. You could ream from the larger hole
side and not 'waste' any more tube area on the smaller side with the
tapered approach where the standard bolt size increases by 1/16th. And
the fact that I have a drill set/bolts instead of the tapered
reamer/pins would probably drive my decision. Reaming with a straight
reamer would mean that the tapered pin would only align one side of the
tube and cut the torsional strength in half. If I'm missing something
here, please let me know.
Linn
> Linn,
>
> Just curious why you haven't considered using a taper pin (bolt) at
> the top of the nose wheel strut. Several folks with the little wheel
> at the proper end have had problems with the tail wheel spring working
> loose at the anti-rotation bolt (the set up looks like the nose wheel
> strut only slightly smaller) and corrected this by reaming the mount
> hole and installing a taper pin.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 565 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Since I haven't got to the gear on the RV-10 (and I'm not an RV repeat
offender) I gather that there's only one bolt to pin the nose gear. My
Grumman (AA-1B) which uses the same strut/socket attachment has two
bolts. The Grummans don't have an issue with the attachment ...... but
the assembly method requires the strut and socket to be liberally coated
with zinc chromate and installed wet. It could be this 'glue' that
makes the biggest difference.
Linn
Denis Walsh wrote:
> This is as good a run down as I have seen. I have around 4000
> landings on my 6A, and can verify all these observations. I, too am
> inclined to think the new fork assembly is more prone to shake. I too
> like the matco assembly, but am sticking with my old original
> Cleveland wheel and axle as furnished in 1994 or so.
>
> I have three things to add:
>
> 1. Sometimes just increasing or decreasing the nose tire pressure
> will help.
>
> 2. VERY IMPORTANT to get an observers notes. Frequently the problem
> is main wheel shake, which can start the nose going, or vice versa.
>
> 3. Regarding the "upper bolt hogging out the holes at top of strut
> mount" problem. Most RVs I have seen eventually develop this
> problem. My latest quick fix seems to be working quite well. Got a
> fender washer with the right size hole. Put it in a vice and beat it
> into a curved radius to match the weldment where the strut goes
> through. Installed a new bolt with the big ass curved washer under
> the head. torqued it down. \\
>
> I made the curvature a little more than matching to get a springy fit.
> Voila I now have a new hole at the top which has a very snug fit (the
> washer hole shrunk a little laterally when bent), and the rotational
> slop is gone..
>
> Hoping it will last a year or so, then I can replace the washer and/or
> install another on the bottom.
> On Apr 5, 2009, at 2:17 , Charles Brame wrote:
>
>> I have had exactly the same nose wheel shimmy that you describe. The
>> shimmy was the result of more than one problem.
>>
>> I originally had a vertical nose shimmy confirmed by outside
>> observers. It only occurred after landing. I checked for out of round
>> and balance and both were perfect. I found that the nose wheel itself
>> would not spin more than a quarter turn regardless of the torque
>> setting on the axle bolt. After nose wheel touchdown after landing,
>> the tight wheel caused the strut to flex aft and rebound, which
>> lifted the wheel back off the runway. Once off the ground it quickly
>> stopped spinning and the action repeated itself causing the vertical
>> shimmy until I slowed considerably. I switched from Van's supplied
>> nose wheel to a Grove wheel that would spin freely regardless of axle
>> torque. That solved the vertical shimmy problem.
>>
>> However, I still occasionally had a lateral shimmy at taxi speeds.
>> Tightening the strut/fork pivot bolt beyond Van's recommendations
>> helped, but did not completely solve the problem and the shimmy
>> gradually got worse. I found that even with the axle bolt torqued to
>> the max, the nose wheel still had a slight amount of lateral play on
>> the axle. The answer to that was carefully grinding about a sixteenth
>> inch off the sleeve between the hubs of the Grove wheel. The wheel
>> now has zero lateral play and still turns freely.
>>
>> Lastly, I found that the nose strut itself was rotating in the motor
>> mount sleeve. The rotation amounted to nearly a quarter of an inch
>> lateral play at the bottom of the tire. The retaining bolt at the top
>> of the strut was not tight enough and the NAS bolt had wallowed out
>> the motor mount holes. A temporary fix was to add a couple of washers
>> to the bolt and tighten it beyond torque recommendations. So far,
>> that stopped the shimmy.
>>
>> The loose strut obviously added to the increased shimmy problems. At
>> some future time, I'll have to take action to repair the oversized
>> hole. I suspect that the hole enlargement was caused by the vibration
>> of the strut which was caused by the other shimmy inducing problems.
>>
>> Recommendations:
>>
>> Replace Van's supplied nose wheel with a Grove wheel.
>> Ensure no lateral play of the nose wheel on the axle.
>> Ensure the nose wheel will spin a couple of turns easily.
>> Increase the torque on the strut/fork pivot bolt.
>> Check for the slightest rotation of the nose strut at the motor mount.
>> Check the nose strut bolt torque (and continue to check frequently.)
>>
>> Charlie Brame
>> RV-6A N11CB
>> San Antonio
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Knicholas2(at)aol.com <mailto:Knicholas2(at)aol.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
>>
>> I know this has been discussed in the archives, but I need some help.
>>
>> This winter I replace the nose wheel fork on my RV9A per Van's service
>> bulletin. Since the install, I have a bad nose wheel shimmy on
>> landing. I have
>>
>> tried various torque settings on the axel, different tire pressures
>> and
>> varied the break-out pressure on the nose wheel "pivot". I still
>> get the shimmy
>>
>> on landing - note that it does not occur on takeoff, and I have
>> intentionally allowed my take off speed on the runway to exceed my
>> landing speed.
>> On
>> take off it does not shimmy, only on landing.
>>
>> Does anyone have any helpful ideas? I feel like the nose wheel is
>> going to
>> shake right off of the plane, and it is no fun.
>>
>> Kim Nicholas
>> RV9A
>> Auburn, WA
>> *
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <kahamer(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
The nose gear leg of my 7A was able to rotate slightly at the engine mount
end.
Tightening the bolt would fix the problem for a few landings.
I ended up using LOCTITE 680(and the bolt of course) on the upper and lower
socket and no problem after 90 landings.
Would have to use a heat gun if the leg has to come off again...
Don't know if anyone else has tried this before.
Regards
Karl 7A 60hours
Near Sydney/Australia
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
10:54:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fluctuating oil pressure during prop braking. |
| From: | "bluesidedown" <mbick(at)carolina.rr.com> |
My oil pressure is fluctuating considerably when prop braking and I think it is
because of my prop governor but I am not sure. Now the oil pressure is 80 lbs
at full throttle and only drops to 50 (at) 800 rpm when fully warmed up and on
the ground is as strong and steady as you could want. Even fast taxing back
and forth is is fine. But when I am flying what happens is when I pull back the
throttle the oil pressure fluctuates considerably. It only happens in the air
when I pull back the throttle and the prop is braking and only after the temperature
reaches 200. Now on the ground I can't reproduce it and all is normal,
only in the air when the prop braking can I reproduce it. Another thing I noticed
is that it will not go to 2700 but only about 2600 and I adjusted it out
but no effect. On the ground when I cycle the prop the pressure drops from 80
to 60 or so.
The engine is an AEIO-360-A1E with a front mounted Hartzell governor and the prop
is a new Whirlwind 200c.
Any ideas? Anyone have a oil flow diagram for A Lycoming?
Thanks
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237959#237959
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating oil pressure during prop braking. |
On 6 Apr 2009, at 08:16, bluesidedown wrote:
> My oil pressure is fluctuating considerably when prop braking and I
> think it is because of my prop governor but I am not sure. Now the
> oil pressure is 80 lbs at full throttle and only drops to 50 (at)
> 800 rpm when fully warmed up and on the ground is as strong and
> steady as you could want. Even fast taxing back and forth is is
> fine. But when I am flying what happens is when I pull back the
> throttle the oil pressure fluctuates considerably. It only happens
> in the air when I pull back the throttle and the prop is braking and
> only after the temperature reaches 200. Now on the ground I can't
> reproduce it and all is normal, only in the air when the prop
> braking can I reproduce it. Another thing I noticed is that it will
> not go to 2700 but only about 2600 and I adjusted it out but no
> effect. On the ground when I cycle the prop the pressure drops from
> 80 to 60 or so.
>
> The engine is an AEIO-360-A1E with a front mounted Hartzell governor
> and the prop is a new Whirlwind 200c.
>
> Any ideas? Anyone have a oil flow diagram for A Lycoming?
Mike,
Is this an aerobatic prop that goes to coarse pitch if the oil
pressure drops, or a normal prop that goes to fine pitch with no oil
pressure?
Is your positive g oil pickup at the very back of the oil sump? If
so, when the prop is braking, the oil may be moving far enough forward
in the oil sump so the oil pickup is starting to suck some air. Try
running with more oil in the sump. The inverted oil system oil
separator should keep the engine from losing too much oil through the
breather.
If this is a normal prop, be very, very careful. I've got an IO-360-
A1B6 with a Christen inverted oil system in my RV-8. I too was seeing
occasional oil pressure fluctuations when I pulled the power back, but
I increased the oil quantity in the sump, and believed the issue was
resolved. Then one day I pulled the back sharply at 200 kt in a
descent, and all hell broke lose. The oil pressure plummeted, the
prop went to full fine pitch and the rpm hit almost 4000. I pulled
the nose up, and the oil pressure came back up, and the rpm came back
down. I followed the Lycoming and Hartzell overspeed recommendations
- I had Aero Sport Power do an engine inspection + replace connecting
rod bolts and crankshaft counterweight bushings. I replaced the
Christen oil pickup with one from Raven Aircraft that has the pickup
nearer the middle of the sump. I scrapped the prop and bought a new
aerobatic prop and prop governor. This was a very expensive episode,
plus the aircraft was on the ground for about four months.
I have since learned from several sources in the aerobatic community
that the long oil sump on the IO-360-A series Lycomings in combination
with the Christen oil pickup is known to have issues in steep
descents, or when the power is pulled sharply back. Not a huge
problem with an aerobatic prop, but a real big deal with a normal
prop. Be careful.
--
Kevin Horton (Grounded)
RV-8 (Flight Test Phase)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
I am not sure, but I think 40ft punds is too much??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael" <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating oil pressure during prop braking. |
How did you try to adjust it to get 2700 rpm? Just FYI 180 is the target oil
temp, 200 is fine but it would be better to try to get it to 180.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 5:59 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fluctuating oil pressure during prop braking.
>
> On 6 Apr 2009, at 08:16, bluesidedown wrote:
>
>> My oil pressure is fluctuating considerably when prop braking and I
>> think it is because of my prop governor but I am not sure. Now the oil
>> pressure is 80 lbs at full throttle and only drops to 50 (at) 800 rpm
>> when fully warmed up and on the ground is as strong and steady as you
>> could want. Even fast taxing back and forth is is fine. But when I am
>> flying what happens is when I pull back the throttle the oil pressure
>> fluctuates considerably. It only happens in the air when I pull back the
>> throttle and the prop is braking and only after the temperature reaches
>> 200. Now on the ground I can't reproduce it and all is normal, only in
>> the air when the prop braking can I reproduce it. Another thing I
>> noticed is that it will not go to 2700 but only about 2600 and I
>> adjusted it out but no effect. On the ground when I cycle the prop the
>> pressure drops from 80 to 60 or so.
>>
>> The engine is an AEIO-360-A1E with a front mounted Hartzell governor and
>> the prop is a new Whirlwind 200c.
>>
>> Any ideas? Anyone have a oil flow diagram for A Lycoming?
>
> Mike,
>
> Is this an aerobatic prop that goes to coarse pitch if the oil pressure
> drops, or a normal prop that goes to fine pitch with no oil pressure?
>
> Is your positive g oil pickup at the very back of the oil sump? If so,
> when the prop is braking, the oil may be moving far enough forward in the
> oil sump so the oil pickup is starting to suck some air. Try running
> with more oil in the sump. The inverted oil system oil separator should
> keep the engine from losing too much oil through the breather.
>
> If this is a normal prop, be very, very careful. I've got an IO-360- A1B6
> with a Christen inverted oil system in my RV-8. I too was seeing
> occasional oil pressure fluctuations when I pulled the power back, but I
> increased the oil quantity in the sump, and believed the issue was
> resolved. Then one day I pulled the back sharply at 200 kt in a descent,
> and all hell broke lose. The oil pressure plummeted, the prop went to
> full fine pitch and the rpm hit almost 4000. I pulled the nose up, and
> the oil pressure came back up, and the rpm came back down. I followed
> the Lycoming and Hartzell overspeed recommendations - I had Aero Sport
> Power do an engine inspection + replace connecting rod bolts and
> crankshaft counterweight bushings. I replaced the Christen oil pickup
> with one from Raven Aircraft that has the pickup nearer the middle of the
> sump. I scrapped the prop and bought a new aerobatic prop and prop
> governor. This was a very expensive episode, plus the aircraft was on
> the ground for about four months.
>
> I have since learned from several sources in the aerobatic community that
> the long oil sump on the IO-360-A series Lycomings in combination with
> the Christen oil pickup is known to have issues in steep descents, or
> when the power is pulled sharply back. Not a huge problem with an
> aerobatic prop, but a real big deal with a normal prop. Be careful.
>
> --
> Kevin Horton (Grounded)
> RV-8 (Flight Test Phase)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
Joe and Jan, Here is a good guy to check with, Doug Shears, A&P/Vibe
Tech, Propbalancing.com, 5 Como Ave., St. Paul, MN. Check him out
online. He was at our last MNWing Van's Air Force meeting at Lake Elmo.
Jim
RV9a Building
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe & Jan Connell
To: RV-List
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 3:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking
Gentlemen:
I have an RV-9A with and Aero Sport 160 hp O-320 with a Sensenich
fixed pitch prop and a 2 1/4 spacer. Today I hung the prop and spacer
on the engine and torqued the 7/16ths bolts to 40 ft lbs.
I raised the nose strut and rested it on a block to keep the nose from
moving. The top spark plugs were removed.
I set up a heavy camera tripod and attached a probe to touch the aft
edge of the prop about 3 inches from the end of the prop. I've rotated
the prop a number of times and the deviation between the two blades is
.02 inches.
Am I in the ball park on this? I could rotate the spacer 180 degrees
to the prop and try again. I could rotate the prop and spacer in
relation to the engine. Is it normal to be able to get the tracking
closer?
Suggestions are welcome - I need to get this squared away before I
proceed too far with the spinner.
Many thanks...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A N95JJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Linn,
Of course there would be no advantage to using a taper pin in a straight re
amed hole.=C2- You need a taper reamer.=C2- Archives should turn up mor
e info on this and references to sources for the pins and reamers.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 565 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 9:04:10 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nose wheel shimmy
Well, I really didn't think of that ...... and the choice would be determin
ed by the amount of damage in the wallowed out holes and if they're differe
nt on either side.=C2- You could ream from the larger hole side and not '
waste' any more tube area on the smaller side with the tapered approach whe
re the standard bolt size increases by 1/16th.=C2- And the fact that I ha
ve a drill set/bolts instead of the tapered reamer/pins would probably driv
e my decision.=C2- Reaming with a straight reamer would mean that the tap
ered pin would only align one side of the tube and cut the torsional streng
th in half.=C2- If I'm missing something here, please let me know.
Linn
Linn,
Just curious why you haven't considered using a taper pin (bolt) at the top
of the nose wheel strut.=C2- Several folks with the little wheel at the
proper end have had problems with the tail wheel spring working loose at th
e anti-rotation bolt (the set up looks like the nose wheel strut only sligh
tly smaller) and corrected this by reaming the mount hole and installing a
taper pin.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 565 hours
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Enjoy a better life! |
| From: | cfranz1021(at)aol.com |
Hi,
Hope you everything goes well.I find a good company to buy electronic products
recently.
Now it is under sales promotion.they provide the attractive service and price to
customers,
It is really a good chance for shopping. Just grasp the opportunity, Now or never!
When you are free, please visit www.Diorsw.com?.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fluctuating oil pressure during prop braking. |
Mike,
I am going to send you a diagram of the oiling system off list. I'm also going
to send you a photo of a special tool you can easily make yourself to check for
possible air leaks in the system between the governor and the prop. The photo
I'm sending is of the tool I made. These should help you troubleshoot your
problem.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Mon, 4/6/09, bluesidedown wrote:
> From: bluesidedown <mbick(at)carolina.rr.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Fluctuating oil pressure during prop braking.
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, April 6, 2009, 8:16 AM
>
>
> My oil pressure is fluctuating considerably when prop
> braking and I think it is because of my prop governor but I
> am not sure. Now the oil pressure is 80 lbs at full throttle
> and only drops to 50 (at) 800 rpm when fully warmed up and
> on the ground is as strong and steady as you could want.
> Even fast taxing back and forth is is fine. But when I am
> flying what happens is when I pull back the throttle the oil
> pressure fluctuates considerably. It only happens in the air
> when I pull back the throttle and the prop is braking and
> only after the temperature reaches 200. Now on the ground I
> can't reproduce it and all is normal, only in the air
> when the prop braking can I reproduce it. Another thing I
> noticed is that it will not go to 2700 but only about 2600
> and I adjusted it out but no effect. On the ground when I
> cycle the prop the pressure drops from 80 to 60 or so.
>
> The engine is an AEIO-360-A1E with a front mounted Hartzell
> governor and the prop is a new Whirlwind 200c.
>
> Any ideas? Anyone have a oil flow diagram for A Lycoming?
>
> Thanks
> Mike
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237959#237959
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel tank/burn question - UPDATE |
| From: | "ACTIVE NZ - Andrew" <andrew(at)nzactive.com> |
Thanks for all the responses, guys. I've conclusive established that my
LH tank takes 52 litres (13 gals) from EMPTY. I'm gonna check the other
tank shortly. I've investigated leakage possibilities, but it doesn't
seem to leak. (Topped off both, took off on good tank, flew round for a
while, landed, "bad" tank still full. I'm going to have a look at the
innards of the tank, but Jerry's point that burning 13 gals per hour is
not unlikely on an 0.360, WOT at 2700 rpm, reassures me a bit. I'm
considering all suggestions that were made, and ruling 'em out one by
one. I appreciate all the help, and the many offers of fuel caps. Thanks
y'all
Andrew Fairfax (NZ)
PS John, the "sucking of the caps off, in flight, means just what it
sounds like. I think the "low pressure" explanation makes sense - with
old (dry) caps, they don't "spread" properly, are not secure, and pop,
they're gone. Am gonna be careful about keeping seals lubricated from
now on, and yes, carry a spare. And try not to fly over people :)
Andrew Fairfax | CEO | ACTIVE NEW ZEALAND AND ACTIVE SOUTH AMERICA
PO Box 972 | Queenstown, New Zealand 9300 | +64.3.441.2045
Free phone Numbers | 1.800.661.9073 (US & Canada) | 0808.234.7780 (UK)
Fax Numbers | +64-3-409-0119 (NZ) | 1-603-251-1051 (US & Canada)
www.activenewzealand.com
| www.activesouthamerica.com
Just so you know, to reduce email traffic and in the interests of peace,
love &harmony, if emails to me need no ACTION, just a "thanks", "got it"
etc, please presume I've been appropriately polite, even if I don't
reply directly. Likewise, if my email doesn't require a substantive
response, it's fine with me if you don't respond. If you have sent me an
email, and it's important, and there's a long delay in my response, feel
free to resend, but do know that I do get all my emails. It's just that,
um, there's sometimes quite a line-up of the wee fellas :)
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel tank/burn questions
first of all my money is with Doug's Imperial answer.
As to cap sucking. My six has blown (had sucked) off a couple tank caps
over the years. I now carry a spare with me. In my case they were left
loose, either by the fueler or by me.
The good news is that in coordinated flight and reasonable attitudes and
speeds, the fuel quits drooling after only a half gallon or so.
I should add that I have also fliight checked another fascinating
condition, which is having the fuel cap slightly cocked in the
receptacle, but latched snug. This can also result in fuel going
overboard, due to the aforementioned low pressure area over the cap.
Again the fuel drool stops after a short time in coordinated flight,
most likely because of the fortuitous dihedral of the Van's wing.
Denis
On Apr 3, 2009, at 2:24 , Doug Gray wrote:
it only took 12.5 gallons.
Wait a minute - are you in New Zealand? 12.5 Imp Gallons * 1.2
=> 15 USG
You might also be losing fuel - check tank & gascolator drains
under pressure, perhaps through the poorly sealed caps.
Seems to me you are being punished for flirting with a Rocket!
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
o
ntribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
The info I have from Sensenich is:
3/8 inch 23 to 25 lb-ft
7/16 inch 40 to 45 lb-ft
1/2 inch 60 to 65 lb-ft
Source is http://www.sensenich.com/new/70cminst.htm
Joe
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking
I am not sure, but I think 40ft punds is too much??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
With regard to repairing a wallowed out bolt hole in the top of the
nose gear strut: Is there any way to drill, taper, or ream the hole
without pulling the engine?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Engine mount bolts |
Hey All=2C
I've been flying my RV8 for about 2 years now and it seems that the engine
has sagged just a little more than I had planned. I would like to shim it
up by putting a spacer/washer between the engine and the Lord mount.
As I am not near my plane right now=2C would anybody know the bolt size tha
t comes with the Vans mounts=2C Dynofocal on a TMX IO360=2C so I can order
one just a bit longer to accommodate the spacer.
Thanks in advance=2C
Paul Rice
RV8 Flying Siren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Misc finishing/elec parts and wood prop for sale. |
Since I've finished my airplane, I have some leftover finishing and
electrical components available, as well as a Sterba wood prop with Van's
install kit. Contact me via email for a list of available items.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Flying 16 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Yes, but it's not easy. I did our 6 with an angle drill, for the
undersize hole, and then drove the taper ream with an air powered
ratchet. I took off some of the exhaust system for better access. It was
still a difficult reach and took me most of 2 days. It was worth it
though. The nose gear leg really wiggled before and is rock solid now.
Aircraft spruce has the taper pins and stuff.
Have fun with it.
Ed Holyoke
Charles Brame wrote:
>
> With regard to repairing a wallowed out bolt hole in the top of the
> nose gear strut: Is there any way to drill, taper, or ream the hole
> without pulling the engine?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
I thought the discussion started with torquing the bolts on a wood prop. The table
you site is for an aluminum prop.
Rick
--- On Tue, 4/7/09, Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> From: Joe & Jan Connell <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking
> To: "RV-List"
> Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2009, 11:27 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The info I have from Sensenich is:
>
> 3/8
> inch
>
> 23 to 25 lb-ft
> 7/16
> inch
> 40
> to 45 lb-ft
> 1/2
> inch
>
> 60 to 65 lb-ft
>
> Source is http://www.sensenich.com/new/70cminst.htm
>
>
> Joe
>
>
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List:
> Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking
>
> I am not sure, but I think 40ft punds
> is too much??
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Generation 3 Ignition" <mail(at)g3ignition.com> |
Hello Carl,
The G3i timing characteristics is a fixed timing event, there is no
timing curve, Not needed. For example, IO-540-C4B5, Lycoming calls for
25 degrees BTDC. This is where you would set your mags at. The first
Multiple Spark Discharged would be at 25 degrees BTDC, and continue for
20 degrees of crankshaft rotation. Timing control modules can be
interfaced for a adjustable 15 degree window, depending on your
requirements and variations,turbo/supercharged, etc. The G3i
Installation Manual, drawings (section 8) shows the timing control
module interfaced. link: http://g3ignition.com/G3Iinstall.pdf
Thanks,
Thomas S.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 7:23 AM
Subject: G3I for IO540
Tom,
Please let me know how the timing characteristics of this ignition
with the IO-540, and what engine parameters are used in setting the
timing curve.
Thanks,
Carl
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 8:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: G3I for IO540
Hello Dave,
Yes, with the G3i system, the Multiple Spark Discharge is energized
while starting, thus taking place of the Slick Start/ Bendix Shower of
Sparks. Also, both mags are energize while starting.
Yes, a single system runs both (L&R) magnetos.
Sincerely,
Thomas Shpakow
Interfacing Aircraft Magnetos
Electronic Multiple Spark Technology
GENERATION 3 IGNITION
2331 W. Hampden Ave. 130
Englewood, CO. 80110
T 303-781-9449
C 303-906-6846
F 303-806-5120
www.g3ignition.com
mail(at)g3ignition.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2009 10:04 AM
Subject: G3I for IO540
Does your system eliminate the Slickstart requirement? Does a single
system cover both mags?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel shimmy |
With regard to a wallowed out bolt hole in the top of the nose wheel
strut:
A couple of my compatriots suggested tack welding the lower bushing to
the motor mount in about three places. The welds would prohibit any
rotation of the strut while not affecting the vertical movement of the
strut. It would not allow removal of the gear strut without grinding
the welds off, but removal of the nose strut is seldom required, if
ever.
Any comments, pros or cons?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel shimmy |
Not sure what the heat from the welding would do to the temper of the
strut. Just a thought. The other thought is that you might want to
remove the strut to check for corrosion (rust) since failure of the
strut would be pricey.
Linn
Charles Brame wrote:
>
> With regard to a wallowed out bolt hole in the top of the nose wheel
> strut:
>
> A couple of my compatriots suggested tack welding the lower bushing to
> the motor mount in about three places. The welds would prohibit any
> rotation of the strut while not affecting the vertical movement of the
> strut. It would not allow removal of the gear strut without grinding
> the welds off, but removal of the nose strut is seldom required, if ever.
>
> Any comments, pros or cons?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: ACK new ELT update |
Direct from the ACK website, for those of you like me waiting for their
qual to complete.
ACK E-04 406MHz ELT RELEASE UPDATE 3/04/2009
We have been pushed back by the COSPAS/SARSAT military electronics proving
grounds again. We were re-scheduled for March 9th back in February, and now
we have just been re-scheduled again. Here is the quote from the lab we
received today.
"We are having difficulties in getting our test equipment back to working
order. Mid-March is not possible for us to support your testing. Right
now it looks more like mid-April. We will keep you posted."
Besides this hold-up we are currently finished with the environmental
testing and data submittal packet for the TSO approval on our lithium battery
pack for the 406MHz ELT. We are at the final stages of TSO testing for the
complete ELT. The last phase consisting of COSPAS/SARSAT testing at the U.S.
ARMY electronic proving grounds is now expected to be complete by the end
of April. The U.S. ARMY lab will submit a application for COSPAS/SARSAT
approval. After that we are ready to submit the final TSO application to the
FAA which they have 30 days to approve or reject. We expect to be in
production and shipping product by May of 2009. Our apologies for any
inconvenience.
The retrofit kit for replacing the old ACK E-01 ELT installed in your plane
will be $560.
N1GV (RV-6A, Flying 912hrs, O-360-A1A, C/S, Silicon Valley)
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10
or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking |
Hi Rick,
Sorry for the confusion - I should have stated the Sensenich is
aluminum.
Joe
From: Richard Lundin <rlundin46(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting Sensenich prop tracking
I thought the discussion started with torquing the bolts on a wood prop.
The table
you site is for an aluminum prop.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta <rveighta(at)earthlink.net> |
All, a friend just informed me that an RV8 went down near Ft. Meyers, FL, killing
the
pilot and seriously injuring the passenger. Anyone have any further info?
Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
Maybe this is it:
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 88WG
Make/Model: EXP
Description: RV6A
Date: 04/04/2009
Time: 1842
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Unknown
LOCATION
City: ENGLEWOOD State: FL Country: US
DESCRIPTION
AIRCRAFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES, THERE WERE TWO PERSONS ON
BOARD, ONE WAS FATALLY INJURED, ONE SUSTAINED SERIOUS INJURIES, NEAR
ENGLEWOOD, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:56 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 CRASH
>
> All, a friend just informed me that an RV8 went down near Ft. Meyers, FL,
> killing the
> pilot and seriously injuring the passenger. Anyone have any further info?
>
> Walt Shipley
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
http://www.news-press.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID 0990405006
My sympathy to them, their families and friends.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 CRASH
>
> Maybe this is it:
>
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 88WG
> Make/Model: EXP
> Description: RV6A
> Date: 04/04/2009
> Time: 1842
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Unknown
>
> LOCATION
> City: ENGLEWOOD State: FL Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> AIRCRAFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES, THERE WERE TWO PERSONS ON
> BOARD, ONE WAS FATALLY INJURED, ONE SUSTAINED SERIOUS INJURIES, NEAR
> ENGLEWOOD, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:56 AM
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 CRASH
>
>
>>
>> All, a friend just informed me that an RV8 went down near Ft. Meyers, FL,
>> killing the
>> pilot and seriously injuring the passenger. Anyone have any further info?
>>
>> Walt Shipley
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david cook <davercook1501(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers
His name is Don Gaynor, and it was an RV-6. He crashed in Englewood Fl. Eyewitness
said he performed a loop over an assembly of people and did not come out of
it. Must have been to low. He was a founding member of EAA chapter 1285 in Venice
Fl. Him and his wife ,Wendy, run the parts mart at Sun-n Fun. He will be
greatly missed.
David R. Cook
N815DC RV-6
Flying
________________________________
From: Dale Walter <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 5:56:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 CRASH
http://www.news-press.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID 0990405006
My sympathy to them, their families and friends.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 CRASH
>
> Maybe this is it:
>
> IDENTIFICATION
> Regis#: 88WG
> Make/Model: EXP
> Description: RV6A
> Date: 04/04/2009
> Time: 1842
>
> Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Fatal Mid Air: N Missing: N
> Damage: Unknown
>
> LOCATION
> City: ENGLEWOOD State: FL Country: US
>
> DESCRIPTION
> AIRCRAFT CRASHED UNDER UNKNOWN CIRCUMSTANCES, THERE WERE TWO PERSONS ON
> BOARD, ONE WAS FATALLY INJURED, ONE SUSTAINED SERIOUS INJURIES, NEAR
> ENGLEWOOD, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "rveighta" <rveighta(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 8:56 AM
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 CRASH
>
>
>>
>> All, a friend just informed me that an RV8 went down near Ft. Meyers, FL,
>> killing the
>> pilot and seriously injuring the passenger. Anyone have any further info?
>>
>> Walt Shipley
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture |
Greetings:
Back in 2000 a builder recommended a 3M product "IIRC" = silver colored windshield
sealant, rubbery, can paint over.
Can not find this 3M Product on the Internet and his E-mail address in no longer
valid.
Does anybody have info on this Product or a valid 3M Product Number ???
Is there an equivalent to this product ??? What did you use ???
Thanks, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davidbf(at)centurytel.net |
| Subject: | windshield sealant |
The product I used was clear, paintable, rubbery, came in a tube and is called
Lexel, I believe. I found it at Ace hardware, the only place I could find it
then. Don't know about a 3M product though.
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Greetings:
Back in 2000 a builder recommended a 3M product "IIRC" = silver colored windshield
sealant, rubbery, can paint over.
Can not find this 3M Product on the Internet and his E-mail address in no longer
valid.
Does anybody have info on this Product or a valid 3M Product Number ???
Is there an equivalent to this product ??? What did you use ???
Thanks, Garey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture |
JB weld is a good product for that application.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garey Wittich" <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 11:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
>
>
> Greetings:
>
> Back in 2000 a builder recommended a 3M product "IIRC" = silver colored
> windshield sealant, rubbery, can paint over.
>
> Can not find this 3M Product on the Internet and his E-mail address in no
> longer valid.
>
> Does anybody have info on this Product or a valid 3M Product Number ???
>
> Is there an equivalent to this product ??? What did you use ???
>
> Thanks, Garey
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | the key behind studs |
Are there any A&P's on this list that can anyone advise me why the ends of
four new studs appear to be the same and yet are not? The shorter threaded
end screws into the hole easily, while the longer threaded end does not go
in easily or accept nuts by finger tightening.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <n8zg(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | the key behind studs |
Marty -
Studs are designed to be an interference fit. Put a little lube on the fat
end and jam two nuts together on the loose end. Use a wrench to drive them
to the desired depth. Remove the nuts and install the appliance.
Neal
================
Are there any A&P's on this list that can anyone advise me why the ends of
four new studs appear to be the same and yet are not? The shorter threaded
end screws into the hole easily, while the longer threaded end does not go
in easily or accept nuts by finger tightening.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A finishing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the key behind studs |
Marty,
Studs are threaded differently. The 'cut' is what is different. The
shorter end usually goes into the case, whereas the longer end attaches
something and uses regular nuts. Also you may find that the thread on the
short end is coarse thread and the long end is fine thread though both may
be 1/4x20. Also the short end thread cut is made in a way to 'bite' into
the mounting hole so that it does not easily back out when you remove
whatever it is that the stud is holding, ie carb, exhaust flange, fuel pump,
etc. If you have an engine/parts manual or rebuild book it will list the
proper stud with appropriate Lycoming parts #. The parts # will then tell
you what kind of threads that you are dealing with. What studs are you
dealing with and on what engine? You must use the correct studs for each
application.
Hope that this helps,
Mike H 9A/8A SOLD
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 10:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: the key behind studs
>
> Are there any A&P's on this list that can anyone advise me why the ends of
> four new studs appear to be the same and yet are not? The shorter
> threaded
> end screws into the hole easily, while the longer threaded end does not go
> in easily or accept nuts by finger tightening.
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A finishing.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture |
An award winning RV builder (Rod Bower)
http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/Photos/RV8/default.htm gave me a
great tip for this and appearances as well. he uses a diluted mixture of
Pro Seal, wipes it around all of his rivet lines to partially fill any
creases/voids and irregularities around the rivet head and the
skin/dimple. Said it only took him a couple of hours to do his RV8.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> JB weld is a good product for that application.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the key behind studs |
Well, you don't say where these studs go, but from the description I'm
thinking they're intake or exhaust studs???
Those studs have different thread counts on each end ..... and may be of
different diameter on each end depending on your engine.
And there's the possibility that they really are different studs ......
and got mixed up at the suppliers ...... the right bin right next to the
wrong bin when stocked.
Linn
Emrath wrote:
>
> Are there any A&P's on this list that can anyone advise me why the ends of
> four new studs appear to be the same and yet are not? The shorter threaded
> end screws into the hole easily, while the longer threaded end does not go
> in easily or accept nuts by finger tightening.
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A finishing.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture |
Hi Deems
Do you know what he used to dilute the pro-seal?
Cheers
Les Kearney
RV10 # 40643 - some assembly required
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: April-12-09 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
An award winning RV builder (Rod Bower)
http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/Photos/RV8/default.htm gave me a
great tip for this and appearances as well. he uses a diluted mixture of
Pro Seal, wipes it around all of his rivet lines to partially fill any
creases/voids and irregularities around the rivet head and the
skin/dimple. Said it only took him a couple of hours to do his RV8.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
> JB weld is a good product for that application.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture |
Les,
The manufacturer recommends thinning be done with Toluene, although many builders
have used MEK successfully. Lacquer thinner is about 92% Toluene. I've used
it many times to thin ProSeal, when straight Toluene was not available.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sun, 4/12/09, Les Kearney wrote:
> From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 2009, 2:09 PM
>
>
> Hi Deems
>
> Do you know what he used to dilute the pro-seal?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> RV10 # 40643 - some assembly required
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Deems Davis
> Sent: April-12-09 9:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal
> out moisture
>
>
>
> An award winning RV builder (Rod Bower)
> http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/Photos/RV8/default.htm
> gave me a
> great tip for this and appearances as well. he uses a
> diluted mixture of
> Pro Seal, wipes it around all of his rivet lines to
> partially fill any
> creases/voids and irregularities around the rivet head and
> the
> skin/dimple. Said it only took him a couple of hours to do
> his RV8.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Kyle Boatright wrote:
> Boatright"
> >
> > JB weld is a good product for that application.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture |
I'm not 100% sure, but when I was doing the tanks, the best solvent for
ProSeal was MEK, it doesn't evaporate as quickly as Acetone, and if I
recall correctly it seems to cut the pro seal a little better.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Deems
>
> Do you know what he used to dilute the pro-seal?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> RV10 # 40643 - some assembly required
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: April-12-09 9:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
>
>
> An award winning RV builder (Rod Bower)
> http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/Photos/RV8/default.htm gave me a
> great tip for this and appearances as well. he uses a diluted mixture of
> Pro Seal, wipes it around all of his rivet lines to partially fill any
> creases/voids and irregularities around the rivet head and the
> skin/dimple. Said it only took him a couple of hours to do his RV8.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>>
>> JB weld is a good product for that application.
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes |
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
1. 08:05 PM - Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
(Garey Wittich)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
Greetings:
Back in 2000 a builder recommended a 3M product "IIRC" = silver
colored windshield
sealant, rubbery, can paint over.
Can not find this 3M Product on the Internet and his E-mail address in
no longer
valid.
Does anybody have info on this Product or a valid 3M Product Number ???
Is there an equivalent to this product ??? What did you use ???
Thanks, Garey
Garey,
Use ProSeal. Wipe the excess off with a bit of acetone.
Or go to any auto body supply house and tell them you want a tube of
paintable sealant. They can fix you up.
Vince
www.flyboyaccessories.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes |
> Greetings:
>
> Back in 2000 a builder recommended a 3M product "IIRC" = silver colored windshield
sealant, rubbery, can paint over.
>
> Can not find this 3M Product on the Internet and his E-mail
> address in no longer valid.
>
> Does anybody have info on this Product or a valid 3M Product Number ???
>
> Is there an equivalent to this product ??? What did you use ???
>
> Thanks, Garey
>
>
> Garey,
>
> Use ProSeal. Wipe the excess off with a bit of acetone.
>
> Or go to any auto body supply house and tell them you want
> a tube of paintable sealant. They can fix you up.
>
> Vince
> www.flyboyaccessories.com
Gary,
I've never heard of the silver windshield sealant you refer to. The sealant that
Vince referred to is called 3M Drip Check Sealer. Auto body shops use it to
seal sheet metal seams. It's paintable and easy to use.
Charlie Kuss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture |
Hi Deems et all
Thanks for the info.
Cheers
Les
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: April-12-09 2:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
I'm not 100% sure, but when I was doing the tanks, the best solvent for
ProSeal was MEK, it doesn't evaporate as quickly as Acetone, and if I
recall correctly it seems to cut the pro seal a little better.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi Deems
>
> Do you know what he used to dilute the pro-seal?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les Kearney
> RV10 # 40643 - some assembly required
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: April-12-09 9:42 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fill MK319BS Rivet Head holes to seal out moisture
>
>
> An award winning RV builder (Rod Bower)
> http://www.ramairforhomebuilts.com/Photos/RV8/default.htm gave me a
> great tip for this and appearances as well. he uses a diluted mixture of
> Pro Seal, wipes it around all of his rivet lines to partially fill any
> creases/voids and irregularities around the rivet head and the
> skin/dimple. Said it only took him a couple of hours to do his RV8.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Kyle Boatright wrote:
>
>>
>> JB weld is a good product for that application.
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
Low-level acro. What are we doing to ourselves?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
NTSB Identification: CEN09LA236
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Saturday, April 04, 2009 in Brookshire, TX
Aircraft: ARGENCE RV-8, registration: N89EA
Injuries: 1 Serious.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors.
Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
completed.
On April 4, 2009, about 1440 central daylight time, a single-engine Argence
RV-8 airplane, N89EA, was destroyed during impact with trees following a r
oll during climb-out from the Mikeska Field Airport (1XA4), Brookshire, Tex
as. The airline transport pilot, sole occupant, sustained serious injuries.
The airplane was registered to and operated by the pilot. Visual meteorolo
gical conditions prevailed and no flight plan was filed for the 14 Code of
Federal Regulations Part 91 personal flight.
According to several eyewitnesses, the accident airplane departed third in
a flight of four airplanes. The pilot of the first airplane was observed do
ing a roll on climb-out. The second airplane climbed-out normally. As the t
hird and accident airplane was on climb-out the airplane was observed to do
a roll. Witnesses reported that as the airplane's wings rolled back to a l
evel attitude, the airplane impacted into trees and subsequently the ground
. The pilot exited the airplane unassisted, but was later airlifted to a ho
spital.
The pilot had not been interviewed at the time of this report. It is not kn
own if the roll was intentional or not.
An inspector from the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) responded to th
e accident site, and later reported that the airplane had been destroyed by
a post crash fire.
At 1453, the weather observation facility at the Sugar Land Regional Airpor
t (SGR), near Houston, Texas, located 24 nautical miles southeast from the
site of the accident, was reporting the wind from 170 degrees at 12 knots,
visibility 10 statute miles, a broken ceiling at 4,300 feet and at 6,000 fe
et, temperature 79 degrees Fahrenheit, dew point 63 degrees Fahrenheit, and
a barometric pressure setting of 29.76 inches of Mercury.
Index for Apr2009<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/AccList.asp?month=4&year 0
9> | Index of months<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/Month.asp>
---------------------------------------------------------------
NTSB Identification: ERA09LA229
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Saturday, April 04, 2009 in Englewood, FL
Aircraft: Gaynor Donald J RV6A, registration: N88WG
Injuries: 1 Fatal, 1 Serious.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors.
Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been
completed.
On April 4, 2009, about 1435 eastern daylight time, a Donald J. Gaynor expe
rimental amateur built RV-6A, N88WG, registered to and operated by a privat
e individual, crashed into trees in Englewood, Florida. The certificated pr
ivate pilot was killed, the passenger received serious injuries, and the ai
rplane sustained substantial damage. The flight was operated as a personal
flight under the provisions of 14 Code of Federal Regulations Part 91, and
no flight plan was filed. Visual meteorological conditions prevailed at the
time of the accident. The flight departed from the Venice Municipal Airpor
t (VNC), Venice, Florida, at an undetermined time.
Witnesses at a local gathering referred to as the "Redneck Roundup," stated
that a white single engine airplane flew over their heads at what they est
imated to be 300 feet and then the airplane did what some witnesses referre
d to as a "barrel roll" and others referred to as a "loop." The airplane di
sappeared from sight. Organizers of the roundup stated that there was no ai
r show scheduled to be performed at the gathering.
Examination of the airplane by a Federal Aviation Administration inspector
found that the airplane had collided with trees in a heavily wooded area. T
he wings and cockpit canopy had separated from the airplane. There was an i
solated area of fire damage near the instrument panel and under the accesso
ry section of the engine consistent with a postimpact fire.
The airplane has been recovered from the accident site for further examinat
ion.
Index for Apr2009<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/AccList.asp?month=4&year 0
9> | Index of months<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/Month.asp>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Filling MK319BS Rivet Head holes |
Greetings:
Way back in 2000 a builder recommended a 3M product "IIRC" = silver colored windshield
sealant, rubbery, can be painted over.
Can not find this 3M Product on the Internet and his E-mail address is no longer
valid.
Does anyone have info on this Product or a valid 3M Product Number ????
What product have you builders used ????
Thanks, Garey Wittich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
I recall tha several pilots were killed dring the war doing rolls on
takeoff. charle H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Watson" <mansionrw(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's |
Low level acrobatics.
Rule number 1. Don't do it.
Rule number 2. Don't do it on impulse.
Rule number 3. Don't ever, ever, ever try at low altitude that which
you
have not perfected 100 times at altitude.
Rule number 4. When you are upside down and in trouble, push. Push
harder.
It may not feel "right" but do it anyway.
An old fighter pilot who does not hold an ATP rating,
Dick Watson, Isle of Palms (Charleston), SC, 843-886-4533
RV list:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&
Chapter
09-04-13&Archive=RV
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Subject: Crashing RV's
Low-level acro. What are we doing to ourselves?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
------------------------------------ NTSB Identification: CEN09LA236 14
CFR
Part 91: General Aviation Accident occurred Saturday, April 04, 2009 in
Brookshire, TX Aircraft: ARGENCE RV-8, registration: N89EA Injuries: 1
Serious. This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may
contain
errors. Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final
report
has been completed. On April 4, 2009, about 1440 central daylight time,
a
single-engine Argence RV-8 airplane, N89EA, was destroyed during impact
with
trees following a r oll during climb-out from the Mikeska Field Airport
(1XA4), Brookshire, Tex as. The airline transport pilot, sole occupant,
sustained serious injuries. The airplane was registered to and operated
by
the pilot. Visual meteorolo gical conditions prevailed and no flight
plan
was filed for the 14 Code of Federal Regulations Part 91 personal
flight.
According to several eyewitnesses, the accident airplane departed third
in a
flight of four airplanes. The pilot of the first airplane was observed
do
ing a roll on climb-out. The second airplane climbed-out normally. As
the t
hird and accident airplane was on climb-out the airplane was observed to
do
a roll. Witnesses reported that as the airplane's wings rolled back to a
l
evel attitude, the airplane impacted into trees and subsequently the
ground
. The pilot exited the airplane unassisted, but was later airlifted to a
ho
spital. The pilot had not been interviewed at the time of this report.
It is
not kn own if the roll was intentional or not. An inspector from the
Federal
Aviation Administration (FAA) responded to th e accident site, and later
reported that the airplane had been destroyed by a post crash fire. At
1453,
the weather observation facility at the Sugar Land Regional Airpor t
(SGR),
near Houston, Texas, located 24 nautical miles southeast from the site
of
the accident, was reporting the wind from 170 degrees at 12 knots,
visibility 10 statute miles, a broken ceiling at 4,300 feet and at 6,000
fe
et, temperature 79 degrees Fahrenheit, dew point 63 degrees Fahrenheit,
and
a barometric pressure setting of 29.76 inches of Mercury. Index for
Apr2009<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/AccList.asp?month=4&year 0 9> | Index
of
months<" target=otherpageshttp://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/Month.asp>
<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/Month.asp>
--------------------------------------------------------------- NTSB
Identification: ERA09LA229 14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation Accident
occurred Saturday, April 04, 2009 in Englewood, FL Aircraft: Gaynor
Donald J
RV6A, registration: N88WG Injuries: 1 Fatal, 1 Serious. This is
preliminary
information, subject to change, and may contain errors. Any errors in
this
report will be corrected when the final report has been completed. On
April
4, 2009, about 1435 eastern daylight time, a Donald J. Gaynor expe
rimental
amateur built RV-6A, N88WG, registered to and operated by a privat e
individual, crashed into trees in Englewood, Florida. The certificated
pr
ivate pilot was killed, the passenger received serious injuries, and the
ai
rplane sustained substantial damage. The flight was operated as a
personal
flight under the provisions of 14 Code of Federal Regulations Part 91,
and
no flight plan was filed. Visual meteorological conditions prevailed at
the
time of the accident. The flight departed from the Venice Municipal
Airpor t
(VNC), Venice, Florida, at an undetermined time. Witnesses at a local
gathering referred to as the "Redneck Roundup," stated that a white
single
engine airplane flew over their heads at what they est imated to be 300
feet
and then the airplane did what some witnesses referre d to as a "barrel
roll" and others referred to as a "loop." The airplane di sappeared from
sight. Organizers of the roundup stated that there was no ai r show
scheduled to be performed at the gathering. Examination of the airplane
by a
Federal Aviation Administration inspector found that the airplane had
collided with trees in a heavily wooded area. T he wings and cockpit
canopy
had separated from the airplane. There was an i solated area of fire
damage
near the instrument panel and under the accesso ry section of the engine
consistent with a postimpact fire. The airplane has been recovered from
the
accident site for further examinat ion. Index for
Apr2009<http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/AccList.asp?month=4&year 0 9> | Index
of
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| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick Watson
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's
Low level acrobatics.
Rule number 1. Don't do it.
Rule number 2. Don't do it on impulse.
Rule number 3. Don't ever, ever, ever try at low altitude that which
you
have not perfected 100 times at altitude.
Rule number 4. When you are upside down and in trouble, push. Push
harder.
It may not feel "right" but do it anyway.
An old fighter pilot who does not hold an ATP rating,
Dick Watson, Isle of Palms (Charleston), SC, 843-886-4533
RV list:
Dick:
Hear, hear. Many pilot who have done aileron rolls have not recognized
the
vertical space they have used in the process. These are not well flown
slow
rolls with negative G when inverted. A poorly done aileron roll can use
a
lot of vertical space and it is possible to fall out of one if not
properly
set up and at insufficient airspeed.
Gordon Comfort N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's |
Toward the end of my training in the T-37 at Williams AFB, Arizona in late
'64 or early '65, my instructor and I were returning from the practice area
when he, (Capt. Monte O. Lillard), said "I guess I had better show you how
to do a low altitude aileron roll so you don't kill yourself the first time
you try it. Tighten your shoulder harness." I remember thinking "Why the
hell out I want to do a low altitude aileron roll?", but with uncommon
judgment, I didn't say it out loud. I cinched up the lap belt and the
shoulder harness and braced myself for whatever it was that he was going to
do. Wham! We were upside down with my helmet slammed against the canopy and
the cockpit filled with dust and debris and then just as quickly back right
side up. Of course Capt. Lillard had rolled us over and with full aileron
deflection while rapidly pushing the stick forward to keep us from losing
altitude, then pulled the stick back again as we continued over to upright.
I still remember two things about that little maneuver: first, how violent
it was, and second, we didn't seem to lose any altitude. I don't remember
what the g meter registered for negative g's, but it was obviously more than
I had expected.
Just to be clear, we were at altitude when he did this.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick Watson
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's
Low level acrobatics.
Rule number 1. Don't do it.
Rule number 2. Don't do it on impulse.
Rule number 3. Don't ever, ever, ever try at low altitude that which you
have not perfected 100 times at altitude.
Rule number 4. When you are upside down and in trouble, push. Push harder.
It may not feel "right" but do it anyway.
An old fighter pilot who does not hold an ATP rating,
Dick Watson, Isle of Palms (Charleston), SC, 843-886-4533
RV list:
Dick:
Hear, hear. Many pilot who have done aileron rolls have not recognized the
vertical space they have used in the process. These are not well flown slow
rolls with negative G when inverted. A poorly done aileron roll can use a
lot of vertical space and it is possible to fall out of one if not properly
set up and at insufficient airspeed.
Gordon Comfort N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Cantrell" <kcflyrv(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's |
Whether you're doing loops or rolls in any airplane, always check your
altitude before and after your maneuver.(Obviously, check your entry speed
too) If you're doing it right, you won't lose 10'. Make it part of your
practice. Also keep in mind that you must compensate for the extra wait if
you have a passenger in your RV. When you do a loop, you must remember to
release the back pressure once you've past vertical on your way up and let
it gain the needed altitude. ( I like to use about a half G going over the
top) You don't need to pull a lot of G's either. I never pull more than 3.5
G's - ever! Most of us don't have inverted systems in our RVs so we do
aileron rolls instead of "slow rolls". If you release the back pressure when
rolling inverted,(half G) you won't have to pull up as much at entry and you
will and you'll have a better chance of finishing at the same altitude you
started. When you practice, always do it at altitude and think each maneuver
out thoroughly ahead of time. RV's are clean and pick up speed super fast
when the nose is below the horizon. When you find yourself nose low and
inverted, roll out rather than split-S out! All the above are just my
opinions. I also think the 4 Rules are right on target and they might just
save a life!
Ken Cantrell
RV-6 - 815 hrs.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon or Marge
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 5:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick Watson
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Crashing RV'sCrashing RV's
Low level acrobatics.
Rule number 1. Don't do it.
Rule number 2. Don't do it on impulse.
Rule number 3. Don't ever, ever, ever try at low altitude that which you
have not perfected 100 times at altitude.
Rule number 4. When you are upside down and in trouble, push. Push harder.
It may not feel "right" but do it anyway.
An old fighter pilot who does not hold an ATP rating,
Dick Watson, Isle of Palms (Charleston), SC, 843-886-4533
RV list:
Dick:
Hear, hear. Many pilot who have done aileron rolls have not recognized the
vertical space they have used in the process. These are not well flown slow
rolls with negative G when inverted. A poorly done aileron roll can use a
lot of vertical space and it is possible to fall out of one if not properly
set up and at insufficient airspeed.
Gordon Comfort N363GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crashing RV's |
Re: RV-List: Crashing RV'sCrashing RV'sLet's quit killing ourselves.
One dead. Two seriously injured.
Ron Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Broken Canopy Corner |
| From: | mr.gsun(at)gmail.com |
Hi, Listers,
I just broke a 4" sliver of the corner of my RV7 tipup canopy off. After
uttering the appropriate words and feeling really mad about the whole thing,
I made some metal modifications on the passenger seatback that was hitting
the corner each time it was closed with the seatback in a forward position.
That won't happen again!
Anyway, now I want to cement the corner piece back on with as much of an
invisible weld as possible. I purchased some "Weld-on" canopy repair that
came with a little syringe application bottle. It sure looks like the
typical PVC glue although it says specifically made for acrylic, plexiglass
etc. I'm a little worried that it may not be quite the best material out
there.
Any advice? I'd like to make as good of a repair as I can without removing
the canopy from the frame.
Thanks in advance......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Point" <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken Canopy Corner |
Weld-on #3 is the best stuff for glueing canopy material. It has been
used by many others (me included) in your situation.
If you still have some scrap left over from your canopy, try making a
few test coupons first. You'll find that the glued joint is almost as
strong as the original material.
Jeff Point
RV-6 w/ cracked canopy
Milwaukee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken Canopy Corner |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
I went one further and fixed the defect then covered the repair with a
'targa strip'. Seems worth the trouble and now makes a really nice seal.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Jeff Point wrote:
> Weld-on #3 is the best stuff for glueing canopy material. It has been
> used by many others (me included) in your situation.
>
> If you still have some scrap left over from your canopy, try making a few
> test coupons first. You'll find that the glued joint is almost as strong as
> the original material.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 w/ cracked canopy
> Milwaukee
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel cap engraving? |
| From: | J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone got any good references (reasonably priced) to get my fuel caps
engraved? The local trophy shop could only do "scratch" engraving which I
thought might not wear too well.
I'd prefer someone in the DFW area - but mailorder is acceptable.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap engraving? |
Great looking caps and excellent customer service from this company.
http://www.rvengraving.com/
David Maib
RV-10 N380DM
On Apr 15, 2009, at 9:31 PM, J Riffel wrote:
Anyone got any good references (reasonably priced) to get my fuel
caps engraved? The local trophy shop could only do "scratch"
engraving which I thought might not wear too well.
I'd prefer someone in the DFW area - but mailorder is acceptable.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken Canopy Corner |
| From: | mr.gsun(at)gmail.com |
What's a Targa Strip? Pics?
March 03, 2009 - April 15, 2009
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ty