RV-Archive.digest.vol-tz

April 15, 2009 - May 28, 2009



      
      On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 5:50 PM, David Leonard  wrote:
      
      > I went one further and fixed the defect then covered the repair with a
      > 'targa strip'.  Seems worth the trouble and now makes a really nice seal.
      >
      > --
      > David Leonard
      >
      > Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
      > http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
      > http://RotaryRoster.net 
      >
      > On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Jeff Point wrote:
      >
      >>  Weld-on #3 is the best stuff for glueing canopy material.  It has been
      >> used by many others (me included) in your situation.
      >>
      >> If you still have some scrap left over from your canopy, try making a few
      >> test coupons first.  You'll find that the glued joint is almost as strong as
      >> the original material.
      >>
      >> Jeff Point
      >> RV-6 w/ cracked canopy
      >> Milwaukee
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> *
      >>
      >> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
      >> ttp://forums.matronics.com
      >> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >> *
      >>
      >>
      >
      >
      > --
      > David Leonard
      >
      > Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
      > <http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net>http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
      > <http://RotaryRoster.net>http://RotaryRoster.net
      >
      > *
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael" <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel cap engraving?
Date: Apr 15, 2009
http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/fuel_caps.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: J Riffel To: rv-list Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 6:31 PM Subject: RV-List: Fuel cap engraving? Anyone got any good references (reasonably priced) to get my fuel caps engraved? The local trophy shop could only do "scratch" engraving which I thought might not wear too well. I'd prefer someone in the DFW area - but mailorder is acceptable. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael" <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel cap engraving?
Date: Apr 15, 2009
http://www.rvengraving.com/index.htm?source=rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: J Riffel To: rv-list Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 6:31 PM Subject: RV-List: Fuel cap engraving? Anyone got any good references (reasonably priced) to get my fuel caps engraved? The local trophy shop could only do "scratch" engraving which I thought might not wear too well. I'd prefer someone in the DFW area - but mailorder is acceptable. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What Ignition to buy?
From: "straight-n-level" <2ghostly(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 17, 2009
Hello, Im new to this forum stuff, Wow, lots of good info. My question is I want to make the transition to an electronic ignition system. I have been sniffing around and looking at the different systems available for the experimental category. I have Slick mags now on my IO-360, and they seem to be working just fine. Im curious on pro and cons of the the after market electronic ignitions. I would just like to make a more educated decision on what to purchase, if I do. Looking for expertise or guidance with the different types to choose from? Thanks for your insight, T. Mitchell Straight-n-Level Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239773#239773 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: What Ignition to buy?
Date: Apr 17, 2009
Hey, Where is the fun in Straight and Level?? :-) GummiBear Upside down on almost every flight. Harmon Rocket II - N561FS ----- Original Message ----- From: "straight-n-level" <2ghostly(at)gmail.com> Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 3:38 PM Subject: RV-List: What Ignition to buy? > > Hello, > I?Tm new to this forum stuff, Wow, lots of good info. My question is I > want to make the transition to an electronic ignition system. I have been > sniffing around and looking at the different systems available for the > experimental category. I have Slick mags now on my IO-360, and they seem > to be working just fine. I?Tm curious on pro and cons of the the after > market electronic ignitions. I would just like to make a more educated > decision on what to purchase, if I do. Looking for expertise or guidance > with the different types to choose from? > > Thanks for your insight, > > T. Mitchell > Straight-n-Level > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239773#239773 > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus > signature database 4017 (20090417) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 17, 2009
Subject: Re: What Ignition to buy?
I replaced my FADEC system last year with dual Light Speed Plasma IIIs and I love them. You might give them a look. Klaus is very good to work with and offers great customer service. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS www.n142ds.com On Fri, Apr 17, 2009 at 5:38 PM, straight-n-level <2ghostly(at)gmail.com>wrote : > > Hello, > I=92m new to this forum stuff, Wow, lots of good info. My question is I w ant > to make the transition to an electronic ignition system. I have been > sniffing around and looking at the different systems available for the > experimental category. I have Slick mags now on my IO-360, and they seem to > be working just fine. I=92m curious on pro and cons of the the after mark et > electronic ignitions. I would just like to make a more educated decision on > what to purchase, if I do. Looking for expertise or guidance with the > different types to choose from? > > Thanks for your insight, > > T. Mitchell > Straight-n-Level > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239773#239773 > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2009
From: MikeNellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: What Ignition to buy?
I''m curious why you did that? > I replaced my FADEC system last year............. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 17, 2009
Subject: wing root bolt interference
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I am bolting on the right wing on an RV-6A quick build for final assembly. The second NAS 3/8" close tolerance bolt out from the center on the top will hit hit a floor rib. I slipped a hardware store bolt in there and it has about 3/16" clearance between the forward edge of the floor rib and the aft surface of the steel splice plate. Am I supposed to install this bolt backwards or chop away the offending portion of the rib? Even if I install the bolt with head aft instead of forward, it would be very difficult and probably do a lot of violence to the rib. The edge of the rib isn't squarely aligned with the bolt center, but it's pretty close. The rib would have had to be installed about 1/2" further outboard to not be an issue. I could chop out the offending portion of the rib and then rivet in a patch later. What do they expect me to do here? -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hand" <chris_hand(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: wing root bolt interference
Date: Apr 18, 2009
Tom, Mine wasn't a quick build but if I recall correctly, those ribs were notched top and bottom to allow room for the bolt. I don't have pictures with me that show the top bolts but if you look closely at the pictures on my web site, you can see where the notch at the bottom of the rib allowed room and I believe it was the same at the top of the spar: http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg7 .htm You can see in the pictures that I installed most of the bolts with nut on forward side (was easier for me to torque properly and I expect easier to check torque later) but where those ribs interfered, I went the other way around because I couldn't get the bolt in straight from the back. I think it was just the center two floor ribs I had that problem with. Chris RV-6A ----- Original Message ----- From: thomas sargent To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 10:49 PM Subject: RV-List: wing root bolt interference I am bolting on the right wing on an RV-6A quick build for final assembly. The second NAS 3/8" close tolerance bolt out from the center on the top will hit hit a floor rib. I slipped a hardware store bolt in there and it has about 3/16" clearance between the forward edge of the floor rib and the aft surface of the steel splice plate. Am I supposed to install this bolt backwards or chop away the offending portion of the rib? Even if I install the bolt with head aft instead of forward, it would be very difficult and probably do a lot of violence to the rib. The edge of the rib isn't squarely aligned with the bolt center, but it's pretty close. The rib would have had to be installed about 1/2" further outboard to not be an issue. I could chop out the offending portion of the rib and then rivet in a patch later. What do they expect me to do here? -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Where is the fun in straight and level?
Date: Apr 18, 2009
> Where is the fun in Straight and Level?? :-) > > GummiBear > Upside down on almost every flight. > Harmon Rocket II - N561FS Bahamas, Key West, swim with manatees, Page AZ, Devil's Tower, Mount Rushmore, Catalina Island, Yosemite, Carlsbad Caverns, Meteor Crater, Monument Valley, Death Valley, Saguaro NP, plus many more.....all without going upside down. Ron Lee ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2009
From: <ronburnett(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: wing root bolt interference
I remember having to drill a hole in the F699 bracket to allow access for a wrench and the bolt itself and I may have shortened that angle alum rib just in front of the spar to allow the bolt to fit and I may have even ground off part of the head of the bolt that faced the rib, but the plane is at the hangar so i can't check. Ron Burnett RV-6A finishing H-4 Eggenfellner Subaru St. Charles, MO ---- thomas sargent wrote: ============ I am bolting on the right wing on an RV-6A quick build for final assembly. The second NAS 3/8" close tolerance bolt out from the center on the top will hit hit a floor rib. I slipped a hardware store bolt in there and it has about 3/16" clearance between the forward edge of the floor rib and the aft surface of the steel splice plate. Am I supposed to install this bolt backwards or chop away the offending portion of the rib? Even if I install the bolt with head aft instead of forward, it would be very difficult and probably do a lot of violence to the rib. The edge of the rib isn't squarely aligned with the bolt center, but it's pretty close. The rib would have had to be installed about 1/2" further outboard to not be an issue. I could chop out the offending portion of the rib and then rivet in a patch later. What do they expect me to do here? -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2009
Subject: What Ignition to buy?
From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
I flew my RV7A for the 1st time 12/12/08 (after 4 yrs) and have about 55 hrs on it. I chose a AeroSport IO-360 and decided on 2 PMags for ignition. I also have an old '65 Mooney w/ Slicks (for comparison). I chose the PMags because: 1. It's electronic ignition - which I believe delivers better ignition than mags 2. The "P"mag version eliminates the need for a backup battery/generator/alternator a. I put 2 PMags on for redundancy (for the engine to stop all of the following would have to fail: alternator, battery, and BOTH internal PMag generators - which was good enough for me) 3. They allow me to use $2 auto plugs vs $20 aviation plugs (required their inserts/harness at reasonable extra charge) 4. The timing process takes less than 20 seconds and requires no equipment (you turn on power, set #1 on TDC and blow in the vacuum line a couple times) (My FAVORITE BENEFIT after timing my Mooney Mags) a. A friend had another electronic ignition that failed on an Alaska trip and had to call back to Texas and get his special timing box sent. 5. There is no tricky mounting (just bolt them on where the mags go) in any orientation. 6. They deliver a tachometer signal for my GrandRapids EIS 7. Because they don't have wear issues, the long term maintenance issues seem small (if there are any) 8. They're priced competitively Issues: 1. None- they started right up the 1st time and have run flawlessly. Concerns: 1. They're experimental so we might be working thru problems together a. Their approach/concept seemed like a 'better idea' to me than their competitors b. I met the folks at OSH and visited their shop here in Texas and felt I could trust/work with them; besides the benefits seem to outweigh the concern (for me) c. I've gone thru a sofware update (before 1st start) and the magnet attachment change (at about 10 hrs). They were great during the process. 2. They've had some issues on the software side and hardware side a. They've been open about problems and addressed them quickly - and seem to have been stable for quite a while 3. The process to hand-prop the engine is a little clumsy - but I haven't spent enough time thinking about how to address it (I had a battery go down/out during my fly off hours - thank goodness a friend was able to fly a battery and tools to me - BTW: Carry Tools!) I'll probably talk to them at OSH this year 4. My engine temps have been on the high side so I changed them to use the alternate internal "curve" (put a jumper on 2 terminals) - and I'm not sure what I believe yet whether the PMags, new engine or both are affecting temps ... or whether it's an issue 5. Not really a Concern, but I'm not that fond of the plug on the unit that you put wires into. It works fine - but I'm not sure what the long-term vibration will do to the wires at the plug. You'll probably want to read the posts on Matronics and VansAirforce about ignitions - and Pmags. Some aren't happy. I am. "Jerry" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Donald Harker" <dpharker(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis
Date: Apr 18, 2009
Looking for 5 hours transition training in a "A" model RV to meet insurance company requirements Anybody know of anybody local to northern Illinois, southern Wisconsin Thanks Don Harker N767DH ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net>
Subject: RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis
Date: Apr 18, 2009
Check out Tom Irlbek, Minnesota RV builders group. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Donald Harker Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 2:56 PM Subject: RV-List: RV-7A Transition Training in IL, Wis Looking for 5 hours transition training in a "A" model RV to meet insurance company requirements Anybody know of anybody local to northern Illinois, southern Wisconsin Thanks Don Harker N767DH ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What Ignition to buy?
From: "straight-n-level" <2ghostly(at)gmail.com>
Date: Apr 19, 2009
Wow, A person could write a book on this topic. Thank you for all the insight and your experiences with the different types of electronic ignition systems. This information from the end user is great. I got a little info. /sensory over loaded, but Im ok. I have been reading up more on the different ignition system web sights also. I like how some systems offer the option of the auto spark plug conversion. Looks like this is common with most of the systems and a good way to go. They all seem to advance the timing. Im not really clear on why and when with such a small rpm operation window. Is it certain throttle settings, under take-off for more power? I do understand most of the reasoning though from being involved with automobile repair/technology. Here it is mostly for its fuel economy and drivability, stop and go. Thank you all, and I really appreciate all this information to help me make an educated choice. Sincerely, T. Mitchell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240065#240065 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: What Ignition to buy?
Date: Apr 19, 2009
On 19 Apr 2009, at 08:02, straight-n-level wrote: > A person could write a book on this topic. Thank you for all the > insight and your experiences with the different types of electronic > ignition systems. This information from the end user is great. I got > a little info. /sensory over loaded, but Im ok. I have been > reading up more on the different ignition system web sights also. I > like how some systems offer the option of the auto spark plug > conversion. Looks like this is common with most of the systems and a > good way to go. They all seem to advance the timing. Im not > really clear on why and when with such a small rpm operation window. > Is it certain throttle settings, under take-off for more power? I do > understand most of the reasoning though from being involved with > automobile repair/technology. Here it is mostly for its fuel economy > and drivability, stop and go. Thank you all, and I really appreciate > all this information to help me make an educated choice. At high manifold pressure, like during takeoff or climb, there is risk of detonation if the timing is too far advanced. under these conditions, all electronic ignition systems, E-mag/P-mag, Unison Laser, etc will set the timing at about the same place it would be with a mag. Thus there is probably very little, if any, advantage from these systems at high power. But, at lower MP, even at high rpm, like high altitude cruise, the timing can be advanced another 20 or so degrees, with no risk of detonation. All these other systems sense MP, and they advance the timing as a function of MP and rpm, to achieve more power for a given fuel flow. -- Kevin Horton (Grounded) RV-8 (Flight Test Phase) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2009
Subject: What Ignition to buy?
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
As far as elelctronic ignition goes I really like the lightspeed but the mag hole driven solutions may be mature enough to consider. I have been running dual lightspeed from the get go. I have a friend who crosses ocean in single engine planes, he has been running one of the mag hole brands on his Lancair and says he likes them. With that said I have also seen a lot of flap on various lists about them having problems: http://www.cozybuilders.org/Emagair_Warning/ The huge advantage of the mag hole solutions is the easy install and not worrying about any additional wiring for power and sensors. Lightspeed requires sensors to be mounted either on the front of the engine or in one mag hole and it also derives power from your electrical system so the install is a bit more involved especially if you go with dual electronic ignition since then you need a second battery. So, in summation if I was shopping around for ignition I'd give the emag and pmag solutions a good look. By look I mean talking to guys who run the system rather than guys selling it! There are even some others that "overlay" your mag system, one of those makes sparks continually through like 30 degrees crank rotation but I don't know anything about them other than thinking that they sound like the worst of both worlds: heavy failure prone mags with vagaries of a new system. the 30 degree thing sounds like snake oil too. The reason to go to electronic would be getting away from the 4-700 hr MTBF of mags. Getting away from expensive plugs, 10% better economy, ease of running lean of peak, and easy starting from a hot spark is nice too. The overlay solutions are non starters since you don't get rid of the least reliable part of your engine. Bill Judge N84WJ, RV-8 350 hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2009
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: What Ignition to buy?
Bill Judge wrote: > There are even some others that "overlay" your mag system, one of those > makes sparks continually through like 30 degrees crank rotation but I don't > know anything about them other than thinking that they sound like the worst > of both worlds: heavy failure prone mags with vagaries of a new system. the > 30 degree thing sounds like snake oil too. > > The reason to go to electronic would be getting away from the 4-700 hr MTBF > of mags. Getting away from expensive plugs, 10% better economy, ease of > running lean of peak, and easy starting from a hot spark is nice too. The > overlay solutions are non starters since you don't get rid of the least > reliable part of your engine. I find the "overlay" idea to be an intriguing option. One is the G3i system: http://www.g3ignition.com/index.html It is based on the MSD ignition module which has a field history of at least a couple of decades in the high performance car and boat communities. Spreading the spark out over many degrees of crank rotation is a major feature of the MSD and well-proven. I like how you get the advantages of a solid-state ignition along with automatic and complete magneto backup if the electronic module goes off line for some reason. Taking a peek at the internals of the mags every 500 hours isn't a major issue for me. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2009
Subject: PMag CHT data?
From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
I'm curious what CHTs others w/ EMag/PMags are getting. This is what I get: MAP 23.2 RPM 2400 at 5300' and getting CHTs of 356, 394, 373, 398 with about 58 hrs on a new IO360. EGTs are 1392, 1423, 1415, 1393. Thanks in advance. "Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "richard sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: PMag CHT data?
Date: Apr 19, 2009
Jerry: Which RV are you flying? Dick Sipp ----- Original Message ----- From: J Riffel To: rv-list Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 10:07 PM Subject: RV-List: PMag CHT data? I'm curious what CHTs others w/ EMag/PMags are getting. This is what I get: MAP 23.2 RPM 2400 at 5300' and getting CHTs of 356, 394, 373, 398 with about 58 hrs on a new IO360. EGTs are 1392, 1423, 1415, 1393. Thanks in advance. "Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: MX20 vertical stripes
Folks, I am about 11 hours in to my flyoff hours for my RV6A and have found what I think is an alternator-based electrical anomaly. When I operate my radio stack from battery power (on the ground) - everythings fine. When I operate my radio stack from alternator power, I get single pixel wide vertical colored stripes on my MX20 display. The stripes don't change with RPM - they just show up when I turn the unit on and annoy me. I still need to determine if it is the B&C 60 or the B&C SD20 making the stripes appear. I'm guessing that it's the 60 since the 20 is a backup that doesn't kick in while the 60 is running. This should be an easy test though as I have individual control of each alternator..... I'll verify good grounds and bonds next weekend. I did not install any additional grounds/bonds/shielding other than what was specified in the install manual and wiring diagrams. I'll be sending this to the Garmin tech support folks to see what they say too - but I'm fairly certain that I can get good scoop here. Thanks, Ralph RV6A N822AR @ N06 10.7hrs in to the fly-off period ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: MX20 vertical stripes
Date: Apr 20, 2009
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
Ralph, I have the same thing with an MX20. I figured it was a connector problem on the side of the display and totally unrelated to anything else. Mine had gotten progressively worse...more stripes, to the point that I was contemplating upgrading to the MX200...then it went away for a couple week, then a couple stripes came back. I still believe it is a side connector issue, but then I don't know much of anything about it, so don't take my advice to the bank and try to cash it. I'm just living with it until it gets worse. Curious. What is you hypothesis how the stripes could be related to the regulator or other electrical component? Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:42 AM Subject: RV-List: MX20 vertical stripes Folks, I am about 11 hours in to my flyoff hours for my RV6A and have found what I think is an alternator-based electrical anomaly. When I operate my radio stack from battery power (on the ground) - everythings fine. When I operate my radio stack from alternator power, I get single pixel wide vertical colored stripes on my MX20 display. The stripes don't change with RPM - they just show up when I turn the unit on and annoy me. I still need to determine if it is the B&C 60 or the B&C SD20 making the stripes appear. I'm guessing that it's the 60 since the 20 is a backup that doesn't kick in while the 60 is running. This should be an easy test though as I have individual control of each alternator..... I'll verify good grounds and bonds next weekend. I did not install any additional grounds/bonds/shielding other than what was specified in the install manual and wiring diagrams. I'll be sending this to the Garmin tech support folks to see what they say too - but I'm fairly certain that I can get good scoop here. Thanks, Ralph RV6A N822AR @ N06 10.7hrs in to the fly-off period ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: MX20 vertical stripes
Here's where some of that 'education and recreation' comes in.... What is meant by "across the alternator output"? Would one leg of the capacitor be attached to the "B" lead (fat output wire) and the other leg to ground for each of the two alternators? Where would "another one inside the panel" go? Power lead to the affected device and ground? Thanks, Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: wa8vwy2(at)bellsouth.net >Sent: Apr 20, 2009 9:08 AM >To: RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com >Subject: Re: [RV Builders] MX20 vertical stripes > >Sounds like RF from the alternator - can come from sparking of the brushes on the field's slip rings. You might want to try a 50 volt, 10 uF ceramic capacitor, leaded version, and put it across the alternator output as close to the alternator as possible. You could also put another one somewhere inside the panel. Check www.digikey.com for the part # 445-2903-ND will cost about $11 for five of them, with shipping included. > >-------------- Original message from "Ralph E. Capen" : -------------- > > >Folks, > >I am about 11 hours in to my flyoff hours for my RV6A and have found what I think is an alternator-based electrical anomaly. > >When I operate my radio stack from battery power (on the ground) - everythings fine. >When I operate my radio stack from alternator power, I get single pixel wide vertical colored stripes on my MX20 display. The stripes don't change with RPM - they just show up when I turn the unit on and annoy me. > >I still need to determine if it is the B&C 60 or the B&C SD20 making the stripes appear. I'm guessing that it's the 60 since the 20 is a backup that doesn't kick in while the 60 is running. This should be an easy test though as I have individual control of each alternator..... > >I'll verify good grounds and bonds next weekend. I did not install any additional grounds/bonds/shielding other than what was specified in the install manual and wiring diagrams. > >I'll be sending this to the Garmin tech support folks to see what they say too - but I'm fairly certain that I can get good scoop here. > >Thanks, >Ralph >RV6A N822AR @ N06 10.7hrs in to the fly-off period > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: MX20 vertical stripes
Chuck, No hypothesis on how the effect comes in - I have only seen it with the alternator running and then turning the unit on. I probably need to try and check it out with either or no alternators producing output - as it could still be generated by ignition..... Honestly - I don't know.... But I'll let folks know how it ends - when it ends...... Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Chuck Jensen <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> >Sent: Apr 20, 2009 9:10 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: MX20 vertical stripes > > >Ralph, > >I have the same thing with an MX20. I figured it was a connector problem on the side of the display and totally unrelated to anything else. Mine had gotten progressively worse...more stripes, to the point that I was contemplating upgrading to the MX200...then it went away for a couple week, then a couple stripes came back. I still believe it is a side connector issue, but then I don't know much of anything about it, so don't take my advice to the bank and try to cash it. > >I'm just living with it until it gets worse. Curious. What is you hypothesis how the stripes could be related to the regulator or other electrical component? > >Chuck Jensen > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen >Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:42 AM >To: Aeroelectric-list; rv-list >Subject: RV-List: MX20 vertical stripes > > >Folks, > >I am about 11 hours in to my flyoff hours for my RV6A and have found what I think is an alternator-based electrical anomaly. > >When I operate my radio stack from battery power (on the ground) - everythings fine. >When I operate my radio stack from alternator power, I get single pixel wide vertical colored stripes on my MX20 display. The stripes don't change with RPM - they just show up when I turn the unit on and annoy me. > >I still need to determine if it is the B&C 60 or the B&C SD20 making the stripes appear. I'm guessing that it's the 60 since the 20 is a backup that doesn't kick in while the 60 is running. This should be an easy test though as I have individual control of each alternator..... > >I'll verify good grounds and bonds next weekend. I did not install any additional grounds/bonds/shielding other than what was specified in the install manual and wiring diagrams. > >I'll be sending this to the Garmin tech support folks to see what they say too - but I'm fairly certain that I can get good scoop here. > >Thanks, >Ralph >RV6A N822AR @ N06 10.7hrs in to the fly-off period > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Date: Apr 20, 2009
Subject: Re: Where is the fun in straight and level?
Do it - just 'cause you can! During my 30 year navy career (mostly A-4's and A-7's) I developed the habi t / goal of going inverted at least once per flight - for no other reason t han to celebrate the luck and joy of being up there. I also tried to do at least one 4 g turn. Sometimes logic has nothing to do with it - although many will argue in the tactical arena, situational awareness is much better being inverted lookin g down! Booger RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2009
Subject: RV9-A for sale
From: James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com>
Must sell RV9-A, $92,000 St. Petersburg, Fl., Through Phase One completed, Slider canopy, Dual GRT Horizon l (vertical mounted), TruTrac Flight syst. (Pictoral pilot) wing level and altitude hold. A200 ICOM, Garmin 330 transponder with TIS, Garmin 396 gps, lots of other things. I built this for my personal retirement love bird. Completed info is available for everything and all the paper work and drawings. If your are interested and at S&F this coming week, PIE is only 60 miles to St. Petersburg to see it in detail. Jim Nelson N15JN ____________________________________________________________ Live your dreams. Click here to find information on becoming a lawyer. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOPOH15JaYPwPVUsDpqxdddo237jll4ZYn7MDhdR3U6pFNPa9Rox6/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2009
From: Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Where is the fun in straight and level?
A story about straight and level. An F-16 pilot came across a lone C-130 and formed up on the 130. They talked a bit and the 16 pilot says "bet you can't top this". With that said, the 16 pilot began to tear up the sky doing loops, rolls and flying inverted. When he finished, the 130 pilot says "I can beat that". The 16 pilot waited but nothing happened for about 10 minutes. The plane did nothing but fly straight and level. The 130 pilot came back on the radio and said "what did you think of that?" The 16 pilot said "you did nothing but fly straight and level". The 130 pilot said "I sure did do something. I went to the can and took a dump, made a cup of coffee and talked to my loadmaster. Beat that!" Dave --- On Mon, 4/20/09, Valovich, Paul wrote: > From: Valovich, Paul <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Where is the fun in straight and level? > To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" > Date: Monday, April 20, 2009, 12:20 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Do it just cause you > can! > > > > During my 30 year navy career (mostly > A-4s and A-7s) > I developed the habit / goal of going inverted at least > once per flight > for no other reason than to celebrate the luck and joy of > being up there. I > also tried to do at least one 4 g turn. > > > > Sometimes logic has nothing to do with > it although many > will argue in the tactical arena, situational awareness is > much better being > inverted looking down! > > Booger > > RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again) > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: william hilling <f.1.rocket(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Where is the fun in straight and level?
Date: Apr 20, 2009
Is that why Van's sells RV-9's ? > Date: Mon=2C 20 Apr 2009 15:20:17 -0700 > From: truflite(at)yahoo.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Where is the fun in straight and level? > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > > A story about straight and level. > > An F-16 pilot came across a lone C-130 and formed up on the 130. They tal ked a bit and the 16 pilot says "bet you can't top this". With that said=2C the 16 pilot began to tear up the sky doing loops=2C rolls and flying inve rted. When he finished=2C the 130 pilot says "I can beat that". The 16 pilo t waited but nothing happened for about 10 minutes. The plane did nothing b ut fly straight and level. The 130 pilot came back on the radio and said "w hat did you think of that?" The 16 pilot said "you did nothing but fly stra ight and level". The 130 pilot said "I sure did do something. I went to the can and took a dump=2C made a cup of coffee and talked to my loadmaster. B eat that!" > > Dave > > > --- On Mon=2C 4/20/09=2C Valovich=2C Paul wrote: > > > From: Valovich=2C Paul <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Where is the fun in straight and level? > > To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" > > Date: Monday=2C April 20=2C 2009=2C 12:20 PM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Do it ' just =91cause you > > can! > > > > > > > > During my 30 year navy career (mostly > > A-4=92s and A-7=92s) > > I developed the habit / goal of going inverted at least > > once per flight ' > > for no other reason than to celebrate the luck and joy of > > being up there. I > > also tried to do at least one 4 g turn. > > > > > > > > Sometimes logic has nothing to do with > > it ' although many > > will argue in the tactical arena=2C situational awareness is > > much better being > > inverted looking down! > > > > Booger > > > > RV-8A N192NM Reserved (again) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_allup_1a_explore_042009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2009
Subject: DynaVibe prop Balancer
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Fellow RV drivers: does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic prop balancing test set? http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some other experimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble getting my prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to many interested parties in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need to know that it does the job. Thanks Bill N84WJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MIKE JEFFERSON <grumman1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: DynaVibe prop Balancer
Date: Apr 21, 2009
You may want to go to e-bay and check out an EVA 2 electronic vibration ani lizer=2C got mine for 450.00=2C new thay run 1600.00 they are used in the a uto ind. works like a champ=2C Michael P. Jefferson Date: Tue=2C 21 Apr 2009 20:05:18 -0400 Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer From: bjudge(at)gmail.com Fellow RV drivers: does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic prop b alancing test set? http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some other e xperimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble getting my prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to many interested parties in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need to know that it does the job. Thanks Bill N84WJ _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2009
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: DynaVibe prop Balancer
How do you use the EVA2 to determine where to place weights on the spinner to balance the prop? Trial and error or is there something that I don't understand about this analyzer (probably) that would tell you this? Dick Tasker MIKE JEFFERSON wrote: > You may want to go to e-bay and check out an EVA 2 electronic > vibration anilizer, got mine for 450.00, new thay run 1600.00 they are > used in the auto ind. > works like a champ, > Michael P. Jefferson > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:05:18 -0400 > Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > From: bjudge(at)gmail.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Fellow RV drivers: > does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic > prop balancing test set? > > http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp > > They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some > other experimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble > getting my prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to > many interested parties in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need > to know that it does the job. > > Thanks > Bill > N84WJ > > * > > p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > ronics.com > ww.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Windows Live Hotmail:more than just e-mail. Check it out. > <http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009> > * > > > * -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 22, 2009
Subject: Re: DynaVibe prop Balancer
This link has a pretty good explanation of the principles involved in dynamic prop balancing. _http://lists.kjsl.com/pipermail/beech-owners/2003-February/019466.html_ (http://lists.kjsl.com/pipermail/beech-owners/2003-February/019466.html) N1GV (RV-6A Flying 920TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) In a message dated 4/21/2009 9:09:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, retasker(at)optonline.net writes: How do you use the EVA2 to determine where to place weights on the spinner to balance the prop? Trial and error or is there something that I don't understand about this analyzer (probably) that would tell you this? **************Big savings on Dell XPS Laptops and Desktops! eclick.net%2Fclk%3B214133109%3B36002181%3Bk) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Daus" <dauscj(at)nb.net>
Subject: DynaVibe prop Balancer
Date: Apr 22, 2009
Mike, I am interested in the vibration analyzer you had mentioned about. I am trying to think it through and was wondering how you locate the rotational location to place or remove the weight needed to balance the object you are working on? I have not found any that have a strobe light included. Does your kit have one or is there a different way obtaining this information? Thank you! Chuck _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MIKE JEFFERSON Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2009 10:11 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer You may want to go to e-bay and check out an EVA 2 electronic vibration anilizer, got mine for 450.00, new thay run 1600.00 they are used in the auto ind. works like a champ, Michael P. Jefferson _____ Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:05:18 -0400 Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer From: bjudge(at)gmail.com Fellow RV drivers: does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic prop balancing test set? http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some other experimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble getting my prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to many interested parties in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need to know that it does the job. Thanks Bill N84WJ p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution _____ Windows LiveT HotmailR:.more than just e-mail. Check it out. <http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MIKE JEFFERSON <grumman1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: DynaVibe prop Balancer
Date: Apr 22, 2009
the strobe light consist of only a timming light=2C been using one for abou t 12 years (EVA) Michael P. Jefferson N9805U From: dauscj(at)nb.net Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer Date: Wed=2C 22 Apr 2009 07:21:16 -0400 Mike=2C I am interested in the vibration analyzer you had mentioned about. I am t rying to think it through and was wondering how you locate the rotational l ocation to place or remove the weight needed to balance the object you are working on? I have not found any that have a strobe light included. Does yo ur kit have one or is there a different way obtaining this information? Thank you! Chuck From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of MIKE JEFFERSON Sent: Tuesday=2C April 21=2C 2009 10:11 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer You may want to go to e-bay and check out an EVA 2 electronic vibration ani lizer=2C got mine for 450.00=2C new thay run 1600.00 they are used in the a uto ind. works like a champ=2C Michael P. Jefferson Date: Tue=2C 21 Apr 2009 20:05:18 -0400 Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer From: bjudge(at)gmail.com Fellow RV drivers: does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic prop b alancing test set? http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some other e xperimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble getting my prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to many interested parties in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need to know that it does the job. Thanks Bill N84WJ p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail. Check it out. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.co m/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_ Updates2_042009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2009
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: DynaVibe prop Balancer
Our EAA chapter has an electronic prop balance, EAA 105. Not sure if it's a Dynavibe. Email Randy Lervold randy(at)romeolima.com He will be able to provide details. Chris Stone -----Original Message----- >From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com> >Sent: Apr 21, 2009 8:05 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > >Fellow RV drivers: >does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic prop >balancing test set? > >http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp > >They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some other >experimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble getting my prop >balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to many interested parties >in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need to know that it does the job. > >Thanks >Bill >N84WJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2009
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: DynaVibe prop Balancer
Thanks, but that is really not the information I need. I already know the principles and how one does it in practice. I just don't know enough about the EVA2 to know if it can be used like the description. Possibly it has an output for a strobe and can be used exactly as the description you referenced. If not, it could be used in a trial and error approach. Check the balance. Add a little weight somewhere and see if the balance improves or degrades. Adjust weights appropriately. Fairly easy, but much easier with a synchronized strobe. Dick Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > This link has a pretty good explanation of the principles involved in > dynamic prop balancing. > > http://lists.kjsl.com/pipermail/beech-owners/2003-February/019466.html > > N1GV (RV-6A Flying 920TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) > > In a message dated 4/21/2009 9:09:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > retasker(at)optonline.net writes: > > How do you use the EVA2 to determine where to place weights on the > spinner to balance the prop? Trial and error or is there > something that > I don't understand about this analyzer (probably) that would tell > you this? > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2009
From: Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: DynaVibe prop Balancer
So the EVA2 has an output for synchronizing with a strobe? Thanks, Dick MIKE JEFFERSON wrote: > the strobe light consist of only a timming light, been using one for > about 12 years (EVA) > Michael P. Jefferson > N9805U > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > From: dauscj(at)nb.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 07:21:16 -0400 > > Mike, > > I am interested in the vibration analyzer you had mentioned about. I > am trying to think it through and was wondering how you locate the > rotational location to place or remove the weight needed to balance > the object you are working on? I have not found any that have a strobe > light included. Does your kit have one or is there a different way > obtaining this information? > > Thank you! > > Chuck > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *MIKE JEFFERSON > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 21, 2009 10:11 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > > You may want to go to e-bay and check out an EVA 2 electronic > vibration anilizer, got mine for 450.00, new thay run 1600.00 they are > used in the auto ind. > works like a champ, > Michael P. Jefferson > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:05:18 -0400 > Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > From: bjudge(at)gmail.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Fellow RV drivers: > does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic > prop balancing test set? > > http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp > > They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some > other experimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble > getting my prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to > many interested parties in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need > to know that it does the job. > > Thanks > Bill > N84WJ > > * > > p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > ronics.com > ww.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Windows Live Hotmail:more than just e-mail. Check it out. > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c > * > * > > > * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Rediscover Hotmail: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox. > Check it out. > <http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Updates2_042009> > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MIKE JEFFERSON <grumman1(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: DynaVibe prop Balancer
Date: Apr 22, 2009
You bet=2C I will look to see if i still have my owners manual and try to r un off a copy=2C > Date: Wed=2C 22 Apr 2009 10:28:51 -0400 > From: retasker(at)optonline.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > > > So the EVA2 has an output for synchronizing with a strobe? > > Thanks=2C Dick > > MIKE JEFFERSON wrote: > > the strobe light consist of only a timming light=2C been using one for > > about 12 years (EVA) > > Michael P. Jefferson > > N9805U > > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- - > > From: dauscj(at)nb.net > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > > Date: Wed=2C 22 Apr 2009 07:21:16 -0400 > > > > Mike=2C > > > > I am interested in the vibration analyzer you had mentioned about. I > > am trying to think it through and was wondering how you locate the > > rotational location to place or remove the weight needed to balance > > the object you are working on? I have not found any that have a strobe > > light included. Does your kit have one or is there a different way > > obtaining this information? > > > > Thank you! > > > > Chuck > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- - > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *MIKE JEFFERS ON > > *Sent:* Tuesday=2C April 21=2C 2009 10:11 PM > > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > > *Subject:* RE: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > > > > You may want to go to e-bay and check out an EVA 2 electronic > > vibration anilizer=2C got mine for 450.00=2C new thay run 1600.00 they are > > used in the auto ind. > > works like a champ=2C > > Michael P. Jefferson > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- - > > Date: Tue=2C 21 Apr 2009 20:05:18 -0400 > > Subject: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer > > From: bjudge(at)gmail.com > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > > Fellow RV drivers: > > does anyone have any first hand experience with the DynaVibe dynamic > > prop balancing test set? > > > > http://www.rpxtech.com/rpxweb/Dynavibe.asp > > > > They are $1500 I'm kicking around the idea of throwing in with some > > other experimental owners and getting one. I've had some trouble > > getting my prop balanced locally and for $1500 it wouldn't take to > > many interested parties in my EAA Chapter to justify it. I just need > > to know that it does the job. > > > > Thanks > > Bill > > N84WJ > > > > * > > > > p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > > ronics.com > > ww.matronics.com/contribution > > > > * > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- - > > Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail. Check it out. > > * > > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV-List > > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com /c > > * > > * > > > > > > * > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- - > > Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox. > > Check it out. > > <http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Redisc over_Updates2_042009> > > > > * > > > > > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99 Hotmail=AE:=85more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_more_042009 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us>
Subject: DynaVibe prop Balancer
Date: Apr 22, 2009
A typical dynamic balancer will place an accelerometer on the engine and a small reflective timing tape on the prop along with a cheap light detector. The outputs are sent to the balancer which using equations of vibration will figure out where and how much weight to place on the spinner backplate. No strobe involved, and certainly no trial and error: it's all deterministic. Once the weight is placed, it's measured once again to check the improvement and job done. Our RV club a year ago had a great presentation by a fellow who measures the acceleration (vibration) both fore and aft, not just in the front. Apparently this does a better job. The principles of dynamic balancing are not quantum chromodynamics and the equipment should be inexpensive, so no reason why these things should cost huge amounts. RF -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Tasker Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 7:28 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: DynaVibe prop Balancer Thanks, but that is really not the information I need. I already know the principles and how one does it in practice. I just don't know enough about the EVA2 to know if it can be used like the description. Possibly it has an output for a strobe and can be used exactly as the description you referenced. If not, it could be used in a trial and error approach. Check the balance. Add a little weight somewhere and see if the balance improves or degrades. Adjust weights appropriately. Fairly easy, but much easier with a synchronized strobe. Dick Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: > This link has a pretty good explanation of the principles involved in > dynamic prop balancing. > > http://lists.kjsl.com/pipermail/beech-owners/2003-February/019466.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2009
From: <wstucklen1(at)cox.net>
Subject: Step Crack
Well it's happened to me after just 164 Hrs of flying! The right side step is cracked almost 2/3 of the way around with just a little bit of metal holding it together on the outside edge. Looks like I'll have to break it off the rest of the way or it will fall off during my flight to/from Lakeland tomorrow or back North on Friday (Daytona to Hartford CT). I don't think it's repairable so I've ordered a new one from Van's. They seemed to think that others having this problem have beefed up the steps to keep it from repeating in the future....... Fred Stucklen RV-7A N924RV 164 Hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Step Crack
Date: Apr 22, 2009
Befre you break it off, read this http://tinyurl.com/decbxh Ron Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:06 PM Subject: RV-List: Step Crack > > Well it's happened to me after just 164 Hrs of flying! The right side step > is cracked almost 2/3 of the way around with just a little bit of metal > holding it together on the outside edge. Looks like I'll have to break it > off the rest of the way or it will fall off during my flight to/from > Lakeland tomorrow or back North on Friday (Daytona to Hartford CT). I > don't think it's repairable so I've ordered a new one from Van's. They > seemed to think that others having this problem have beefed up the steps > to keep it from repeating in the future....... > > Fred Stucklen > RV-7A N924RV 164 Hrs > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 22, 2009
Subject: Re: Step Crack
Fred- Mine appear to be still good after 920 hrs TTAE. What is the "Bubba Factor" usually for your passengers? N1GV (RV-6A Flying 920TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) In a message dated 4/22/2009 3:09:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, wstucklen1(at)cox.net writes: Well it's happened to me after just 164 Hrs of flying! The right side step is cracked almost 2/3 of the way around with just a little bit of metal holding it together on the outside edge. **************Big savings on Dell XPS Laptops and Desktops! eclick.net%2Fclk%3B214133109%3B36002181%3Bk) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Step Crack
Date: Apr 22, 2009
After discovering that mine was cracked two years ago --- 2/3 of the way around also, I drilled the rivets out, took it down to my local professional welder. He looked it over and said he'd advise against using any reinforcements like gussets, etc. He rewelded it. I had it powder coated again and it's been just fine since. Based on my experience, I'd have it rewelded. Match drilling all those holes would be a bitch. Maybe you should think about wrapping a reinforcement around the break like, damn I hate to say this, duct tape to keep it from moving and getting any worse or falling off in flight, until you get home??? Chuck ------------------------------------------------- From: <wstucklen1(at)cox.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 3:06 PM Subject: RV-List: Step Crack > > Well it's happened to me after just 164 Hrs of flying! The right side step > is cracked almost 2/3 of the way around with just a little bit of metal > holding it together on the outside edge. Looks like I'll have to break it > off the rest of the way or it will fall off during my flight to/from > Lakeland tomorrow or back North on Friday (Daytona to Hartford CT). I > don't think it's repairable so I've ordered a new one from Van's. They > seemed to think that others having this problem have beefed up the steps > to keep it from repeating in the future....... > > Fred Stucklen > RV-7A N924RV 164 Hrs > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re prop balance
Date: Apr 23, 2009
I read about half of the exedddingly vebose write up re balancing. Ataching wights to spiner is nuts. I had myh cherokee balanced in lawrencwille ga and then when I bought my 6a I took it to the same guys airport and had it done. Relatively cheep. $175. bolts with washers in the flywheel was used. Then when I changed engines where I now live, Fayetteville, Ar, I had a significant vibration, using same prop. I found some guys in Mountainview who balanced same way, only took several washers, and was $250, well orth it. You only need to do it once unless a change is made. It goes without saying of course, that the entire mass is balanced, not just the prop. Charles Heathco ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & fairings have now been removed & stored. I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any rework would likely have to happen anyway. Anyone see any major issues with this idea? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
Date: Apr 23, 2009
Sounds like a lot of work. A straight 7 right? Consider hoisting the tail from the ceiling, it will bring the engine end down nicely. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 2:37 PM Subject: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & fairings have now been removed & stored. I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any rework would likely have to happen anyway. Anyone see any major issues with this idea? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vince Himsl" <vshimsl(at)live.com>
Subject: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
Date: Apr 23, 2009
Yes-Hanging the engine twice, mounting the gear legs twice, mounting the fuselage to the dolly twice...you get the idea. Leave the fuselage as it is, raise the tail to level the fuselage (see pic), throw in a bunch of cushions (I like small plastic boat bumpers and cheap Wal-Mart blue camping matt foam) and move on. You could build a bench that runs the length of your fuselage as I did, but you may find, as I did, that a small ladder that you can easily move is more effective. Even with the dolly, I doubt you will escape the extreme pleasure of being upside down, on your back with a flash light in your teeth, under the panel and trying to figure out a connector (or fitting) that is located right between the effective ranges of your bifocals. Don't do any step in this project more than necessary! Vince-n8432-hanger-june08.jpg My RV-8 a year ago Regards, Vince H. RV8 N8432 - Taxi tests & Preparing for final inspection -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: April 23, 2009 1:37 PM Subject: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & fairings have now been removed & stored. I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any rework would likely have to happen anyway. Anyone see any major issues with this idea? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2009
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Step Crack
Scott wrote: > > I was going to say that, but I bit my lip. Never seen a -4 with a > cracked step! ;) I recently put a right-side step on my -6, hope it doesn't crack........ By the way, shortening the step three inches made it a perfect fit for the RV-6. I cut three inches out of the down tube, MIGed a piece of 4130 tubing into the leading edge of the tube, and welded it back together. After dressing the welds, it looks like it was designed for the taildragger. :-) Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Step Crack
Date: Apr 24, 2009
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk90658(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
Date: Apr 24, 2009
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2009
Subject: Re: Step Crack
From: David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com>
Sigh, Sam. Way to ruin a perfectly good taildragger excuse. Dave Leonard On Thu, Apr 23, 2009 at 6:43 PM, Sam Buchanan wrote: > > Scott wrote: > >> >> I was going to say that, but I bit my lip. Never seen a -4 with a cracked >> step! ;) >> > > I recently put a right-side step on my -6, hope it doesn't crack........ > > By the way, shortening the step three inches made it a perfect fit for the > RV-6. I cut three inches out of the down tube, MIGed a piece of 4130 tubing > into the leading edge of the tube, and welded it back together. After > dressing the welds, it looks like it was designed for the taildragger. :-) > > Sam Buchanan > > -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net http://RotaryRoster.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2009
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
Charlie... I have tried it both ways. The first RV-8 we built was set on it's gear as soon as the fuse was skinned. It was a nightmare climbing in and out of hundreds of times during the course of finishing. RV-8 no. two is currently on a four wheel dolly. I lifted it on to saw horses to fit the wings. After removal returned to the dolly. Easier to get in and out of for wiring, plumping and cockpit work. (sticks, floors, etc.). Easy to reach everything for forward fuse skinning and canopy installation. Also very easy to fit up vert and horz stabs, rudder and elevs. Easy to flip inverted for gear fit-up. Having tried it both ways, the dolly is the way to go... of course if you are interested in a brutal physical exercise program put it on the gear as soon as possible! Chris Stone RV-8 Newberg, OR -----Original Message----- >From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >Sent: Apr 23, 2009 4:36 PM >To: RV list >Subject: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? > > >Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the >motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those >odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & >fairings have now been removed & stored. > >I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. >Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. > >Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse >to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This >is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the >ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it >overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any >rework would likely have to happen anyway. > >Anyone see any major issues with this idea? > >Thanks, > >Charlie > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
That's how I'm thinking, too. Did you go ahead & fit the engine, or did you put it back on the gear for that? Chris Stone wrote: > > Charlie... > > I have tried it both ways. The first RV-8 we built was set on it's gear as soon as the fuse was skinned. It was a nightmare climbing in and out of hundreds of times during the course of finishing. RV-8 no. two is currently on a four wheel dolly. I lifted it on to saw horses to fit the wings. After removal returned to the dolly. Easier to get in and out of for wiring, plumping and cockpit work. (sticks, floors, etc.). Easy to reach everything for forward fuse skinning and canopy installation. Also very easy to fit up vert and horz stabs, rudder and elevs. Easy to flip inverted for gear fit-up. Having tried it both ways, the dolly is the way to go... of course if you are interested in a brutal physical exercise program put it on the gear as soon as possible! > > Chris Stone > RV-8 > Newberg, OR > > -----Original Message----- > >> From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >> Sent: Apr 23, 2009 4:36 PM >> To: RV list >> Subject: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? >> >> >> Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the >> motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those >> odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & >> fairings have now been removed & stored. >> >> I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. >> Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. >> >> Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse >> to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This >> is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the >> ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it >> overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any >> rework would likely have to happen anyway. >> >> Anyone see any major issues with this idea? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Charlie >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
Date: Apr 25, 2009
Hi Charlie- I had a somewhat similar scenario, but with some logistical constraints that made things perhaps a bit more deviant ;-) The short version is that I had to delay hanging the engine significantly. For whatever it might be worth to you, I fit my engine mount and then removed it. I fit the gear legs, wings, and tail, removed them, and did all the systems work with the fuse right close to the ground. (I had mounted large casters to the wooden false spars from the QB crate) I also made a firewall mock up out of heavy plywood backed up with 2x3's. I laid out the locations of the supporting structure from the back side of the firewall with sharpies. The engine mount was attached to the mock up, this assembly was attached to the engine, a cheap harbor freight engine stand was attached to the back of the mock up, and then the whole thing was stood up on it's wheels. This allowed me to fill the engine with preservative and rotate it to slosh it thoroughly until it was needed. It also allowed me to lay out the firewall mounted systems and penetrations without having the engine in place. Once the fuse was back on it's gear, in a different location, the engine and mount were put on the fuselage. Cowl fitting took place afterwards. This process worked very well in my situation, but of course YMMV- glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> > Subject: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? > > > Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the > motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those > odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & > fairings have now been removed & stored. > > I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. > Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. > > Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse > to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This > is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the > ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it > overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any > rework would likely have to happen anyway. > > Anyone see any major issues with this idea? > > Thanks, > > Charlie > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: new avionics or good deals at SNF?
Anyone who's monitoring from SNF or just back that can share info on new avionics products or hot deals? I couldn't go this year & it was planned as my year to buy an efis & autopilot. Dynon is my current leader for VFR price/features. Any better deals at SNF? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: wing root bolt interference
Date: Apr 25, 2009
I'm replying to this just to close out this thread. The rib in question is the F619R floor rib. In th quick builds of this era (around 1999) the rib was in the wrong place. It was a mistake. Ken at Van's told me to just cut away the part that was interfering. -- Tom S., RV-6A. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2009
Subject: Re: new avionics or good deals at SNF?
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I was there Tues & Wed, I didn't see any earth shaking avionics news. I did notice crowds were light and dynon's next gen stuff was not at their booth. I didn't speak to them, so I don't know why. On 4/25/09, Charlie England wrote: > > Anyone who's monitoring from SNF or just back that can share info on new > avionics products or hot deals? I couldn't go this year & it was planned > as my year to buy an efis & autopilot. > > Dynon is my current leader for VFR price/features. Any better deals at SNF? > > Thanks, > > Charlie > > -- -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: automotive ignition parts on a Lyc??
I have seen at least a couple of ignition setups using Delco or Chrysler sensors & 'wasted spark' ignition modules functioning on Lycs. The setups I've seen were based on two concepts. One had the pickups mounted at the crank (flywheel) & timing could be mechanically adjusted by moving the pickups using a cable. The other actually put the pickup in the case of one of the mags. Neither setup required the toothed wheel & computer of more modern ignition systems. Unfortunately, I can't find any info on either system now in my computer. (The stuff I saw was over 10 years ago & might have been prior to saving everything on a hard drive, or might have disappeared in a crash.) Anyone have any info or links they could share? Thanks, Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2009
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
All the engine & related systems installation FWF are easiest done with the fuse on the gear. The height is just right for access to everything. I'll qualify that, I'm 6'2"... Chris Stone -----Original Message----- >From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >Sent: Apr 24, 2009 8:14 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? > > >That's how I'm thinking, too. Did you go ahead & fit the engine, or did >you put it back on the gear for that? > >Chris Stone wrote: >> >> Charlie... >> >> I have tried it both ways. The first RV-8 we built was set on it's gear as soon as the fuse was skinned. It was a nightmare climbing in and out of hundreds of times during the course of finishing. RV-8 no. two is currently on a four wheel dolly. I lifted it on to saw horses to fit the wings. After removal returned to the dolly. Easier to get in and out of for wiring, plumping and cockpit work. (sticks, floors, etc.). Easy to reach everything for forward fuse skinning and canopy installation. Also very easy to fit up vert and horz stabs, rudder and elevs. Easy to flip inverted for gear fit-up. Having tried it both ways, the dolly is the way to go... of course if you are interested in a brutal physical exercise program put it on the gear as soon as possible! >> >> Chris Stone >> RV-8 >> Newberg, OR >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >>> From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >>> Sent: Apr 23, 2009 4:36 PM >>> To: RV list >>> Subject: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? >>> >>> >>> Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the >>> motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those >>> odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & >>> fairings have now been removed & stored. >>> >>> I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. >>> Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. >>> >>> Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse >>> to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This >>> is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the >>> ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it >>> overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any >>> rework would likely have to happen anyway. >>> >>> Anyone see any major issues with this idea? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Charlie >>> >>> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2009
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net>
Subject: Re: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
Well, I am 5' 10" and I agree. Dick Tasker Chris Stone wrote: > > All the engine & related systems installation FWF are easiest done with the fuse on the gear. The height is just right for access to everything. I'll qualify that, I'm 6'2"... > > Chris Stone > > -----Original Message----- > >> From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >> Sent: Apr 24, 2009 8:14 PM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? >> >> >> That's how I'm thinking, too. Did you go ahead & fit the engine, or did >> you put it back on the gear for that? >> >> Chris Stone wrote: >> >>> >>> Charlie... >>> >>> I have tried it both ways. The first RV-8 we built was set on it's gear as soon as the fuse was skinned. It was a nightmare climbing in and out of hundreds of times during the course of finishing. RV-8 no. two is currently on a four wheel dolly. I lifted it on to saw horses to fit the wings. After removal returned to the dolly. Easier to get in and out of for wiring, plumping and cockpit work. (sticks, floors, etc.). Easy to reach everything for forward fuse skinning and canopy installation. Also very easy to fit up vert and horz stabs, rudder and elevs. Easy to flip inverted for gear fit-up. Having tried it both ways, the dolly is the way to go... of course if you are interested in a brutal physical exercise program put it on the gear as soon as possible! >>> >>> Chris Stone >>> RV-8 >>> Newberg, OR >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> >>> >>>> From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> >>>> Sent: Apr 23, 2009 4:36 PM >>>> To: RV list >>>> Subject: RV-List: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly? >>>> >>>> >>>> Being somewhat of a deviant in some (not all) areas, I've installed the >>>> motor mount, gear legs, wheels, leg fairings, and pants to get all those >>>> odds & ends properly aligned without the wings in the way. Pants & >>>> fairings have now been removed & stored. >>>> >>>> I haven't yet riveted on any of the fuse top skins, front or rear. >>>> Wings/tail have not yet been fitted to the fuselage. >>>> >>>> Now I'm contemplating the removal of the gear legs & returning the fuse >>>> to its dolly to do the engine/cowl fitting, plumbing, wiring, etc. This >>>> is with the idea that work will be easier with the fuse closer to the >>>> ground. I'll eventually need to 'unhang' the engine to have it >>>> overhauled (waiting until the last moment for that expense), so any >>>> rework would likely have to happen anyway. >>>> >>>> Anyone see any major issues with this idea? >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> >>>> Charlie >>>> >>>> >>>> >> >> >> >> > > > -- Please Note: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced. -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 26, 2009
Subject: Re: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
I built a tail dragger and put the motor mount on once the fuselage was skinned. Then I used a short piece of concrete reinforcing rod to fashion two very short legs. The reinforcing rod had just the right diameter so I could tape the end and fit it snugly into the motor mount. I set the base of the temporary legs into a wood beam and screwed six small swivel wheels onto the bottom. You must keep the temporary legs short so you can get into and out of the fuselage easily and so working on the engine and wiring later places the engine below chest level where it is more easily accessed. The swivel wheels enabled me to wheel the airplane around the shop in any direction quite easily. Pete in Clearwater RV-6 "Best Metal - Homebuilt" 2009 Sun 'n Fun **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy ir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=A prilfooter426NO62) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: -7: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com wrote: > I built a tail dragger and put the motor mount on once the fuselage > was skinned. Then I used a short piece of concrete reinforcing rod to > fashion two very short legs. The reinforcing rod had just the right > diameter so I could tape the end and fit it snugly into the motor > mount. I set the base of the temporary legs into a wood beam and > screwed six small swivel wheels onto the bottom. You must keep the > temporary legs short so you can get into and out of the fuselage > easily and so working on the engine and wiring later places the > engine below chest level where it is more easily accessed. The swivel > wheels enabled me to wheel the airplane around the shop in any > direction quite easily. > > Pete in Clearwater > RV-6 "Best Metal - Homebuilt" 2009 Sun 'n Fun Thanks Pete; that's what I was thinking of doing. No problems with working on the sides or bottom of the engine? Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: N14ZM pics
Date: Apr 27, 2009
From: Danny <vft(at)aol.com>
Here are some pics of N14ZM. http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: Branson - PLK
Date: Apr 27, 2009
Hi listers, My wife and I will be arriving for a vacation to Branson this next Saturday May 2nd and will stay a week. It was our intent to land at the new BBG but apparently that is not going to be an option. I am told our next best location is PLK - Taney County Airport. I am not sure how far this is from downtown Branson but also wondering about safety, security, and such at this airport. Does anybody have any info regarding this location? My RV-6 has a canopy cover and tie downs so I think it would be OK outside for a week stay. Are there any RV builders at this airport currently? Thanks for any info. Tim Bryan RV-6 Flying N616TBover 120 hours now ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: N14ZM pics
Date: Apr 27, 2009
Nothing there at the website listed below. ----- Original Message ----- From: Danny To: rv-list(at)matronics.com ; rocket-list(at)matronics.com ; kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: N14ZM pics Here are some pics of N14ZM. http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img4/2589/12408050311 g8.smil Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go shopping in your closet instead! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N14ZM pics
Date: Apr 27, 2009
From: Danny <vft(at)aol.com>
I just tried it and it worked ok. Sometimes it takes awhile to load. Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL -----Original Message----- From: Garry <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> Sent: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 2:11 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: N14ZM pics Nothing there at the website listed below. ----- Original Message ----- From: Danny Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: N14ZM pics Here are some pics of N14ZM. http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go shopping in your closet instead! href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2009
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: N14ZM pics
Keep trying. It took me 3 tries before the slide show loaded and ran. Nice plane! john Garry wrote: > Nothing there at the website listed below. > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Danny > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com ; > rocket-list(at)matronics.com ; > kitfox-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Monday, April 27, 2009 10:45 AM > *Subject:* RV-List: N14ZM pics > > Here are some pics of N14ZM. > > http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil > > Danny Melnik > F1 N14ZM > Rocket Factory > Melbourne, FL > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Hilditch" <wmjack1(at)t3cs.net>
Subject: N14ZM pics
Date: Apr 27, 2009
It's there. You just have to load (takes a while, be patient.) _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garry Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 2:12 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: N14ZM pics Nothing there at the website listed below. ----- Original Message ----- From: Danny <mailto:vft(at)aol.com> kitfox-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: N14ZM pics Here are some pics of N14ZM. http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL _____ Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go <http://www.stylelist.com/spring-fashion/spring-style/shopping-in-your-closet?nc id=emlweusstyl00000001> shopping in your closet instead! href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navig ator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2009
From: Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: N14ZM pics
I hit refresh once and it came up. Nice plane! Mike Divan N64GH - RV6 (flying) http://n64gh.blogspot.com/ FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS! Remember it is the Solder, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Cost Guard that guarantee your freedom NOT the "community organizer"! ________________________________ From: Garry <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 11:11:41 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: N14ZM pics Nothing there at the website listed below. ----- Original Message ----- From: Danny Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: N14ZM pics Here are some pics of N14ZM. http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL ________________________________ Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go shopping in your closet instead! href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Stan Jones <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: N14ZM pics
Date: Apr 28, 2009
Great paint job. What's behind that three blade CS prop On 28/04/2009, at 2:45 AM, Danny wrote: > Here are some pics of N14ZM. > > http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php? > id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil > > Danny Melnik > F1 N14ZM > Rocket Factory > Melbourne, FL > > Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go shopping in your closet > instead! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: N14ZM pics
Date: Apr 27, 2009
From: Danny <vft(at)aol.com>
Behind the prop is a 275 hp Monty Barrett built IO-540:) Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL -----Original Message----- From: Stan Jones <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> Sent: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 6:45 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: N14ZM pics Great paint job. ?What's behind that three blade CS prop On 28/04/2009, at 2:45 AM, Danny wrote: Here are some pics of N14ZM. http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil Danny Melnik F1 N14ZM Rocket Factory Melbourne, FL Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go shopping in your closet instead! href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Stan Jones <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: N14ZM pics
Date: Apr 28, 2009
Krikey !!! On 28/04/2009, at 11:06 AM, Danny wrote: > Behind the prop is a 275 hp Monty Barrett built IO-540:) > > Danny Melnik > F1 N14ZM > Rocket Factory > Melbourne, FL > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Stan Jones <stan.jones(at)xtra.co.nz> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 6:45 pm > Subject: Re: RV-List: N14ZM pics > > Great paint job. What's behind that three blade CS prop > On 28/04/2009, at 2:45 AM, Danny wrote: > >> Here are some pics of N14ZM. >> >> http://img4.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php? >> id=img4/2589/12408050311g8.smil >> >> Danny Melnik >> F1 N14ZM >> Rocket Factory >> Melbourne, FL >> >> Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go shopping in your closet >> instead! >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http:// >> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// >> www.matronics.com/contribution >> > > > Can't afford a new spring wardrobe? Go shopping in your closet > instead! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2009
From: steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Branson - PLK
Hi Tim, I live in Topeka, Ks. and have flown into PLK in my VariEze several times. - I've never had trouble with security.- There are usually 10 to 20 pla nes on the field depending on dates.- Rental cars are available or if all you want is a burger, borrow their courtesy car.- The approach from the north brings you in over Branson which gives you a great preview of the cit y.- It's a kick to fly-into this airport.- Check Airnav or aeroplanne r for details.- Fave shows are Pierce Arrow and the Oakridge Boys (when t heir in town). - Steve --- On Mon, 4/27/09, Tim Bryan wrote: From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> Subject: RV-List: Branson - PLK Date: Monday, April 27, 2009, 9:56 AM Hi listers, My wife and I will be arriving for a vacation to Branson this next Saturday May 2nd and will stay a week.- It was our intent to land at the new BBG b ut apparently that is not going to be an option.- I am told our next best location is PLK - Taney County Airport.- I am not sure how far this is fr om downtown Branson but also wondering about safety, security, and such at thi s airport.- Does anybody have any info regarding this location?- My RV-6 has a canopy cover and tie downs so I think it would be OK outside for a week stay.- Are there any RV builders at this airport currently? Thanks for any info. Tim Bryan RV-6 Flying N616TB-over 120 hours now le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Stuebner" <david.stuebner(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: F712 lower rivets on a QB -7
Date: Apr 28, 2009
I am trying to rivet the aft bulkhead, F712. How do you buck the lower-foward 4 rivets on an -7 QB, when you have to work around the tail spring mount (WD409)? There is no mention in the plans about using blind rivets. If you were to go with blind rivets, which type? Is there some magic way to make the spring mount disapear temporarily? Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Branson - PLK
Date: Apr 28, 2009
morning, I am based at fayetteville ar, have flown into that airort once, looks very well cared for. If you land on the westerly, you will be flying very low over the main hyway and aproach is at end of very high embankment. When I came in I had a pretty stiff X-wind but runway very good. little spooky to be low over cars and looking at that embankment. Charlie H ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Branson - PLK
Date: Apr 28, 2009
Been there several times in RV-6A. One of my favorite airports. Never any problems with security or safety. They did have a tie down fee, and high price gas. It is much closer to downtown than the new airport. I have not been there for a year or so since my favorite sister moved! When I arrived from the west (Denver) I always came over the town and lakes, very scenic. Almost always a cross wind. Denis On Apr 27, 2009, at 8:54 , steve wrote: > Hi Tim, > I live in Topeka, Ks. and have flown into PLK in my VariEze several > times. I've never had trouble with security. There are usually 10 > to 20 planes on the field depending on dates. Rental cars are > available or if all you want is a burger, borrow their courtesy > car. The approach from the north brings you in over Branson which > gives you a great preview of the city. It's a kick to fly into this > airport. Check Airnav or aeroplanner for details. Fave shows are > Pierce Arrow and the Oakridge Boys (when their in town). > > Steve > > --- On Mon, 4/27/09, Tim Bryan wrote: > > From: Tim Bryan <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> > Subject: RV-List: Branson - PLK > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, April 27, 2009, 9:56 AM > > > Hi listers, > > My wife and I will be arriving for a vacation to Branson this next > Saturday > May 2nd and will stay a week. It was our intent to land at the new > BBG but > apparently that is not going to be an option. I am told our next best > location is PLK - Taney County Airport. I am not sure how far this > is from > downtown Branson but also wondering about safety, security, and such > at this > airport. Does anybody have any info regarding this location? My > RV-6 has a > canopy cover and tie downs so I think it would be OK outside for a > week > stay. Are there any RV builders at this airport currently? > Thanks for any info. > > Tim Bryan > RV-6 Flying > N616TB over 120 hours vigator?RV-List" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > --> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 04/27/09
Date: Apr 28, 2009
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> Subject: RV-List: Branson - PLK Hi listers, My wife and I will be arriving for a vacation to Branson this next Saturday May 2nd and will stay a week. It was our intent to land at the new BBG but apparently that is not going to be an option. I am told our next best location is PLK - Taney County Airport. I am not sure how far this is from downtown Branson but also wondering about safety, security, and such at this airport. Does anybody have any info regarding this location? My RV-6 has a canopy cover and tie downs so I think it would be OK outside for a week stay. Are there any RV builders at this airport currently? Thanks for any info. Tim Bryan RV-6 Flying N616TBover 120 hours now Tim, My family lives in Branson and PLK is A-OK to fly into. Security should be fine as there isn't any access to this hilltop airport except through the front gate unless you're an army Ranger. There is an interesting collection of 20 -30 airplanes in the large hangar somewhat nearest the center of the airport. If the door is open, take a peak to see if you can get an invite inside. Make sure you don't run outta gas. It'd be a helluva bad place to find an alternate as it is all trees and hills! Also, don't land short. You'll see why. Vince Frazier www.flyboyaccessories.com RV goodies, tools, & more! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Hilger" <rvsixer(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Branson - PLK
Date: Apr 28, 2009
It was our intent to land at the new BBG but > apparently that is not going to be an option. Why can't you land at BBG? Mike Hilger RV-6 N207AM, 880 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PeterHunt1(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2009
Subject: RE: Hang the engine with fuselage still on a dolly?
PeterHunt1(at)aol.com initially wrote: > I built a tail dragger and put the motor mount on once the fuselage > was skinned. Then I used a short piece of concrete reinforcing rod to > fashion two very short legs. The reinforcing rod had just the right > diameter so I could tape the end and fit it snugly into the motor > mount. I set the base of the temporary legs into a wood beam and > screwed six small swivel wheels onto the bottom. You must keep the > temporary legs short so you can get into and out of the fuselage > easily and so working on the engine and wiring later places the > engine below chest level where it is more easily accessed. The swivel > wheels enabled me to wheel the airplane around the shop in any > direction quite easily. > > Pete in Clearwater > RV-6 "Best Metal - Homebuilt" 2009 Sun 'n Fun Charlie asked: Thanks Pete; that's what I was thinking of doing. No problems with working on the sides or bottom of the engine? Charlie Pete responds: Charlie, no problems with working on the sides or bottom of the engine or even getting under the fuselage. The bottom of the engine was two feet off the deck and the top a comfortable 3.5 feet off the deck. What I found important was to get the area behind the fire wall and in front of the panel down to a comfortable, chest level, working height. You will be doing a lot of wiring work in there and you don't want it too high or you will be constantly looking for a step or block to stand on. Also you'll want the engine cowling at chest level to facilitate cutting and fitting it. Now, I just went to the garage and found the temporary gear legs I had used. They are 27 inches long and made out of reinforcing rod. Mine were slightly too small in diameter so I pushed pieces of PVC pipe over the tops and wrapped electrical tape to give a slightly snug fit into the motor mount (remember I built a tail dragger). Adding four inches for the beam across the bottom ends and another four for the casters and the height was perfect. I am 5' 10". I left it that way until the airplane was ready for the trip to the airport (I built it in my living room). Then I just lifted it by the motor lift and installed the gear legs and wheels. Pete in Clearwater RV-6 "Best Metal - Homebuilt" 2009 Sun 'n Fun (also 2006, 2007 and 2008 SnF award winner) **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! ilExcScore428NO62) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: Branson - PLK
Date: Apr 28, 2009
The airport doesn't officially open until Monday following the airshow. They had previously said they would do everything they could to have it available for GA landings. On the website this week it says "Fly-In traffic will not be permitted to the Branson Airport (BBG), but two nearby airfields will be available. Space is limited so please contact the following airports for details". And lists PLK as one of them and HRO at Boone County as the other. It seems a bit off to me but not knowing the logistics, how could I say. Tim Bryan RV-6 Flying N616TBover 120 hours now > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Hilger > Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 6:07 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Branson - PLK > > > > It was our intent to land at the new BBG but > > apparently that is not going to be an option. > > Why can't you land at BBG? > > Mike Hilger > RV-6 N207AM, 880 hours > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: lifting the plane
Date: Apr 29, 2009
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
SNIP Then I just lifted it by the motor lift and installed the gear legs and wheels.SNIP I know that lots of people lift by the engine case lifting eye, but it's much better to use the engine mount and appropriate nylon strap to lift the whole fuselage! You'd not want to get your lift a bit off balance and crack your engine case! Vince ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Subject: Oxygen
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com
Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)Glasair.org>
Subject: Oxygen
Date: Apr 30, 2009
It used to be that there were different grades of oxygen based on their moisture content (Aviation oxygen being the driest). That's no longer the case. The way the oxygen is now manufactured, results in all oxygen being in the dry category. Oxygen is oxygen, so you may fill your portable bottle from your large welding bottle with little worry. Bruce WWW.Glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mr.gsun(at)gmail.com Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:52 AM Subject: RV-List: Oxygen Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Any RV'ers In Montvale, TN (TN87)
Folks, Looking to visit my sister in Marysville after getting my 40 hrs flown off. I think getting in to Montvale might be easier than McGhee-Tyson. Montvale is listed as a private airpark. Ralph Capen RV6A N822AR @ N06 12.1 hrs on 40 - planning ahead ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael" <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Welding O2 is NOT the same as ABO..aviators breathing oxygen. ABO is much drier to make sure there is no moisture to freeze at altitude. Find a maintenance shop to fill it for you......tip the mechanic and he will fill it in 5 min. ----- Original Message ----- From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 6:52 AM Subject: RV-List: Oxygen Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oxygen
From: Michael W Stewart <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com>
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Yes you can. You just need the appropriate line. Its a mountain high TR-875. http://mstewart.net/super8/o2/index.htm Enjoy From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Date: 04/30/2009 10:23 AM Subject: RV-List: Oxygen Sent by: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV drivers.-- I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my RV7.- The medical folks take forever because they are u sed to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of threads.- The g as suppliers and welding gas shops don't want to talk to me at all.- The FBO that fills it is not convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. My question is:- Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank dir ectly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bot tle that way?- (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway)-- They ha ve no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding sh op says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Yes, many people have this setup. N1GV (RV-6A Flying 920TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) In a message dated 4/30/2009 6:56:13 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mr.gsun(at)gmail.com writes: My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? **************Big savings on Dell XPS Laptops and click.net%2Fclk%3B214102108%3B35952091%3Bs) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Yes, you can buy an adapter. Bought mine from Aerox, about $35. I was told the only difference between the welding and medical oxygen is the cleanliness of the tanks, not the oxygen. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 30, 2009, at 9:52 AM, mr.gsun(at)gmail.com wrote: > Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV > drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled > for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever > because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a > different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops > don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not > convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. > > My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank > directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and > fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank > anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and > the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. > > Comments? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Date: Apr 30, 2009
WARNING! WARNING! The O2 filled by the welding shops is NOT filtered to remove CO and CO2! Check with local dive shops that fill scuba tanks. Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com ----- Original Message ----- From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:52 AM Subject: RV-List: Oxygen Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Any RV'ers In Montvale, TN (TN87)
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Ralph, McGee-Tyson is easy to get in to by both plane and car. The controllers there are pretty nice too. Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:22 AM Subject: RV-List: Any RV'ers In Montvale, TN (TN87) > > Folks, > > Looking to visit my sister in Marysville after getting my 40 hrs flown > off. I think getting in to Montvale might be easier than McGhee-Tyson. > Montvale is listed as a private airpark. > > Ralph Capen > RV6A N822AR @ N06 12.1 hrs on 40 - planning ahead > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Any RV'ers In Montvale, TN (TN87)
They probably have rental cars there too....Thanks -----Original Message----- >From: Bret Smith <smithhb(at)tds.net> >Sent: Apr 30, 2009 11:17 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Any RV'ers In Montvale, TN (TN87) > > >Ralph, > >McGee-Tyson is easy to get in to by both plane and car. The controllers >there are pretty nice too. > >Bret Smith >RV-9A N16BL >Blue Ridge, GA >www.FlightInnovations.com > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> >To: "rv-list" >Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 10:22 AM >Subject: RV-List: Any RV'ers In Montvale, TN (TN87) > > >> >> Folks, >> >> Looking to visit my sister in Marysville after getting my 40 hrs flown >> off. I think getting in to Montvale might be easier than McGhee-Tyson. >> Montvale is listed as a private airpark. >> >> Ralph Capen >> RV6A N822AR @ N06 12.1 hrs on 40 - planning ahead >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2009
From: Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
You are going to get people telling you "welding" O2 is different than Aviation or medical O2. I doubt that is correct. I know someone that works at an O2 plant and they fill the medical and welding bottles from the same source. They make O2 to one standard. The only difference is when you buy "medical" O2 you get something that tells you it meets standard "X" with the other O2 you just get your O2. Make your own informed choice but I and many others breath "welding" O2 and are not dead yet. Heck the air here in Los Angeles is probably more harmful than anything you get out of a welders tank. Just one opinion though. You can probably save a few bucks by going to your local welding supply place to get your fittings instead of "aviation" fittings. Tank your tank down there tell them what you want to do and in a few minutes you will probabily walk out with what you need and save shipping. Mike Divan N64GH - RV6 (flying) http://n64gh.blogspot.com/ FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS! Remember it is the Solder, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Cost Guard that guarantee your freedom NOT the "community organizer"! ________________________________ From: "mr.gsun(at)gmail.com" <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 6:52:13 AM Subject: RV-List: Oxygen Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)Glasair.org>
Subject: Oxygen
Date: Apr 30, 2009
SCUBA is compressed air, NOT O2. Bruce WWW.Glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 11:11 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Oxygen WARNING! WARNING! The O2 filled by the welding shops is NOT filtered to remove CO and CO2! Check with local dive shops that fill scuba tanks. Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com ----- Original Message ----- From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:52 AM Subject: RV-List: Oxygen Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. Comments? href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2009
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
I still have post-it notes on my toolbox drawers... :-) john Michael W Stewart wrote: > > Yes you can. > You just need the appropriate line. > Its a mountain high TR-875. > http://mstewart.net/super8/o2/index.htm > > Enjoy > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike <g4mech(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Date: Apr 30, 2009
All of this to save money..... Typical GA. Sent from my iPhone Mikey On Apr 30, 2009, at 8:59 AM, "Bruce Gray" wrote: > SCUBA is compressed air, NOT O2. > > > Bruce > WWW.Glasair.org > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > ] On Behalf Of Bret Smith > Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 11:11 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oxygen > > > WARNING! WARNING! > > > The O2 filled by the welding shops is NOT filtered to remove CO and > CO2! Check with local dive shops that fill scuba tanks. > > > Bret Smith > RV-9A N16BL > Blue Ridge, GA > www.FlightInnovations.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:52 AM > > Subject: RV-List: Oxygen > > > Here's a question for you experienced DIY, experimental RV > drivers. I'm having hassles getting my little oxygen bottle filled > for cross country flights in my RV7. The medical folks take forever > because they are used to swapping out bottles and mine has a > different type of threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops > don't want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not > convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. > > My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my little tank > directly to my large oxygen bottle on my Oxy-acetelyne torch set and > fill my bottle that way? (Up to the pressure of my large tank > anyway) They have no problem filling/swapping that tank for me and > the guy at the welding shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. > > Comments? > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http:// > www.matronics.com/c > > > - The RV-List Email Forum - > --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > --> http://forums.matronics.com > - List Contribution Web Site - > Thank you for your generous support! > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tailgummer(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Subject: Re: Oxygen
See John Deakin's article: "getting high on welder's oxygen" _http://www.warmkessel.com/jr/flying/td/jd/13.jsp_ (http://www.warmkessel.com/jr/flying/td/jd/13.jsp) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2009
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Aviation Consumer had an article in their February 2004 issue on this. As another listed posted, they found that ALL oxygen is generated to the same standard now. It's cheaper for the manufacturers that way. The Aviation Consumer article details how to re-fill your oxygen cylinders at home. If you are a subscriber to Aviation Consumer, you can go online and do a search for this article. It's titled ROLL YOUR OWN OXYGEN. Charlie Kuss --- On Thu, 4/30/09, Bret Smith wrote: > From: Bret Smith <smithhb(at)tds.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oxygen > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, April 30, 2009, 11:10 AM > WARNING! WARNING! > > The O2 filled by the welding shops is NOT filtered to > remove CO and CO2! Check with local dive shops that fill > scuba tanks. > > Bret Smith > RV-9A N16BL > Blue Ridge, GA > www.FlightInnovations.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:52 AM > Subject: RV-List: Oxygen > > > Here's a question for you experienced DIY, > experimental RV drivers. I'm having hassles getting my > little oxygen bottle filled for cross country flights in my > RV7. The medical folks take forever because they are used > to swapping out bottles and mine has a different type of > threads. The gas suppliers and welding gas shops don't > want to talk to me at all. The FBO that fills it is not > convenient and wants $50 just to hook it up. > > My question is: Can I get the fittings to connect my > little tank directly to my large oxygen bottle on my > Oxy-acetelyne torch set and fill my bottle that way? (Up to > the pressure of my large tank anyway) They have no problem > filling/swapping that tank for me and the guy at the welding > shop says the oxygen is the same anyway. > > Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Apr 30, 2009
Subject: Oxygen
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Date: May 01, 2009
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Well,when I went to the biggest welding supply source here in indy, we had this same conversation. Turns out he supplies all the hospitals, all the welding supply houses, all the FBO's in the area from the same tank. He is the top of the food chain. Perhaps the mom-n-pop supplier on the corner doesn't have the QC or knowledge or cajones to provide what we need, but the O2 does come from one source, and is produced to the most stringent spec. Sent from the mothership in an undisclosed location ;-) Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
Date: May 01, 2009
>> Not when it comes to my safety >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> Mikey I have to agree with safety, I would not weld with any welding oxygen that contained anything but pure oxygen. Since I fly with the welds I produce, I don't want any contanimated welds. Sent from my desktop PC Bob RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West" DR-107 "Wicked Witch" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lance Sorensen <lancej(at)charter.net>
Subject: Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
Date: May 01, 2009
For Sale: Barely used, like new Avery C214 style pneumatic rivet squeezer, no yoke. $350 including shipping. lancej(at)charter.net. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oxygen
From: "az_gila" <gilalex(at)earthlink.net>
Date: May 02, 2009
Bruce(at)Glasair.org wrote: > SCUBA is compressed air, NOT O2. > > Bruce > WWW.Glasair.org > > -- True for "scuba", but they do use other gas combinations. In Tucson, they seem to be the only place - other than the expen$ive FBOs - that will refill my tank. A lot of the industrial/medical gas places only want to swap bottles, not actually refill yours. Try your local dive shop for Oxygen tank refills. And interestingly, they even said their bottles are labeled "Aviators Breathing Oxygen". Prices quoted were very reasonable and they could even get my old bottle hydro tested for $20 or so. As a glider pilot though, I've had Oxygen refills from many sites in the West, and they all use welding oxygen. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=242406#242406 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2009
From: rv6n(at)optonline.net
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
Dear RVers This might sound ridiculous but does anyone know if it is possible to co nvert a registered RV6 to fly within the LSA guidelines=3F I know it mi ght take mountains of changes but I am just wondering if it is at all po ssible=2E Some of the obstacles to overcome would include addressing th e the weight=2C I think that might be possible by stripping out all the niceties and getting back to only what is basic=2E Another way to reduc e the weight is by doing what one of the LSA companies do which is to ju st say that the baggage capacity is now only xx instead of what it is ac tually capable of=2E The next concern is speed at full power=2E With t he existing O-360 this might be difficult=2E One LSA company uses a gro und adjustable prop to limit the max speed of their airplane=2C so I am sure that would help=2E Eliminating the good looking wheel pants could add some drag too=2E Some props have RPM restrictions which must be adhe red to willingly=2E Can the operating limitations specify a maximum spe ed of 120 kts or an RPM that limits the speed to 120 kts=2E Some LSAs h ave a higher RPM for a maximum number of minutes for take-off and then a reduced RPM thereafter=2E How could the clean stall speed be reduced t o 52 MPH=3F Would the lighter weight and maybe some vortex generators a ccomplish that=3F From what I have read=2C no plane can be flown as an LSA unless it has always been able to fly within the parameters of one=2C so=2C is it possible to de-register my RV6=2C surrender the data plate and re-register it as a plane that is capable of flying within the LSA p arameters=2E Maybe I am crazy for wondering about this but I am not interested in bui lding another plane =2Cthe market has been too soft for selling at a rea sonable price and I don=27t want to spend =24125=2C000 for an LSA=2E I am sure I am not the only one with a medical problem that has wondered t his=2C so is this doable or just a foolish wish=2E Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2009
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: converting an RV to LSA
Convert it by selling it and building Van's light sport (RV12), and, have money left over! Scott --- On Sat, 5/2/09, rv6n(at)optonline.net wrote: > From: rv6n(at)optonline.net <rv6n(at)optonline.net> > Subject: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" > Date: Saturday, May 2, 2009, 7:08 PM > > Dear RVers > > This might sound ridiculousbut does anyone know > if it is possible to convert a registered RV6 to fly within > the LSAguidelines? I know it might take > mountains of changes but I am just wondering if it is at all > possible. Some of the obstaclesto overcome > wouldinclude addressing the the weight, I think that > might be possible by stripping out all the niceties and > getting back to only what is basic. Another way to > reduce the weightis by doing what one of the > LSAcompanies do which is to just say that the baggage > capacity is now only xx instead of what it is actually > capable of. The next concern is speed at full > power. With the existing O-360 this might be > difficult. One LSAcompany uses a ground > adjustable prop to limit the max speed of their airplane, so > I am sure that would help. Eliminating the good > looking wheel pants could add some drag too. Some props have > RPM restrictions which must be adheredto > willingly. Can the operating limitations specify a > maximum speed of 120 ktsor an RPM that limits the > speed to 120 kts. Some LSAshave a higher RPM for > a maximum number of minutesfor take-off and then a > reduced RPM thereafter. How could the clean stall > speed be reduced to 52 MPH? Would the lighter weight > and maybe some vortex generators accomplish that? From > what I have read, no plane can be flown as an > LSAunless it has always been able to fly within the > parameters ofone, so, is it possible to de-register my > RV6, surrender the data plateand re-register it as a > plane that is capable of flying within the > LSAparameters. > > Maybe I am crazy for wondering about this but I am not > interested in building another plane ,the market has been > too soft for selling at a reasonable priceand I > don't want to spend $125,000 for an LSA. I am sure > I am not the only one with a medical problem that has > wondered this, so is this doableor just a foolish > wish. > > Bob > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: converting an RV to LSA
rv6n(at)optonline.net wrote: > Dear RVers > > This might sound ridiculous but does anyone know if it is possible to > convert a registered RV6 to fly within the LSA guidelines? I know it > might take mountains of changes but I am just wondering if it is at > all possible. Some of the obstacles to overcome would include > addressing the the weight, I think that might be possible by stripping > out all the niceties and getting back to only what is basic. Another > way to reduce the weight is by doing what one of the LSA companies do > which is to just say that the baggage capacity is now only xx instead > of what it is actually capable of. The next concern is speed at full > power. With the existing O-360 this might be difficult. One > LSA company uses a ground adjustable prop to limit the max speed of > their airplane, so I am sure that would help. Eliminating the good > looking wheel pants could add some drag too. Some props have RPM > restrictions which must be adhered to willingly. Can the operating > limitations specify a maximum speed of 120 kts or an RPM that limits > the speed to 120 kts. Some LSAs have a higher RPM for a maximum > number of minutes for take-off and then a reduced RPM thereafter. How > could the clean stall speed be reduced to 52 MPH? Would the lighter > weight and maybe some vortex generators accomplish that? From what I > have read, no plane can be flown as an LSA unless it has always been > able to fly within the parameters of one, so, is it possible to > de-register my RV6, surrender the data plate and re-register it as a > plane that is capable of flying within the LSA parameters. > > Maybe I am crazy for wondering about this but I am not interested in > building another plane ,the market has been too soft for selling at a > reasonable price and I don't want to spend $125,000 for an LSA. I am > sure I am not the only one with a medical problem that has wondered > this, so is this doable or just a foolish wish. > > Bob Bob, I think it will be pretty much impossible to achieve LSA requirements for a lot of different reasons (most already mentioned), but it has been done a couple of times with new-registration RV-9's. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2009
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: converting an RV to LSA
MacDonald Doug wrote: > > > Bob, I'm no expert (being from Canada ie:no LSA here) but from what I > understand, once an aircraft has had a registered gross weight of > over 1320 lbs, it can never be an LSA no matter what you do to it. This is correct. Sam Buchanan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
Date: May 03, 2009
The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. The long answer is twofold. Once your aircraft has been given a gross weig ht over 1320 you can't go back. The next answer is that once an aircraft i s certificated in a class it can't be changed over to LSA. Why?....Because it does not have to. If the aircraft in question meets the definition of a n LSA aircraft per FAR 1 then the aircraft may be operated under the LSA ru les irregardless of the aircracft certification category=2C Experimental=2C Standard=2C whatever. Mike Robertson Das Fed Date: Sun=2C 3 May 2009 02:08:49 +0000 From: rv6n(at)optonline.net Subject: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA Dear RVers This might sound ridiculous but does anyone know if it is possible to conve rt a registered RV6 to fly within the LSA guidelines? I know it might take mountains of changes but I am just wondering if it is at all possible. So me of the obstacles to overcome would include addressing the the weight=2C I think that might be possible by stripping out all the niceties and gettin g back to only what is basic. Another way to reduce the weight is by doing what one of the LSA companies do which is to just say that the baggage cap acity is now only xx instead of what it is actually capable of. The next c oncern is speed at full power. With the existing O-360 this might be diffi cult. One LSA company uses a ground adjustable prop to limit the max speed of their airplane=2C so I am sure that would help. Eliminating the good l ooking wheel pants could add some drag too. Some props have RPM restriction s which must be adhered to willingly. Can the operating limitations specif y a maximum speed of 120 kts or an RPM that limits the speed to 120 kts. S ome LSAs have a higher RPM for a maximum number of minutes for take-off and then a reduced RPM thereafter. How could the clean stall speed be reduced to 52 MPH? Would the lighter weight and maybe some vortex generators acco mplish that? From what I have read=2C no plane can be flown as an LSA unle ss it has always been able to fly within the parameters of one=2C so=2C is it possible to de-register my RV6=2C surrender the data plate and re-regist er it as a plane that is capable of flying within the LSA parameters. Maybe I am crazy for wondering about this but I am not interested in buildi ng another plane =2Cthe market has been too soft for selling at a reasonabl e price and I don't want to spend $125=2C000 for an LSA. I am sure I am no t the only one with a medical problem that has wondered this=2C so is this doable or just a foolish wish. Bob _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto rial_Storage1_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2009
From: rv6n(at)optonline.net
Subject: Re: converting an RV to LSA
Dear Mike=2C I was speaking with the people selling the Paradise LSA from Brazil and they said that in Brazil they have their plane certified as a four seate r with a gross weight in excess of 1700 lbs=2E In order to certify it L SA in the USA they removed the two rear seats and declared the baggage c apacity to be less=2E Is this something totally different=3F Is it poss ible to de register the RV and apply all over again=3F I suppose it is time to moth-ball the RV=2E Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From=3A Mike Robertson Date=3A Sunday=2C May 3=2C 2009 12=3A53 pm Subject=3A RE=3A RV-List=3A converting an RV to LSA To=3A rv list =3E =3E The simple answer to your questino is =27NO=27=2E =3E =3E =3E =3E The long answer is twofold=2E Once your aircraft has been given a =3E gross weight over 1320 you can=27t go back=2E The next answer is =3E that once an aircraft is certificated in a class it can=27t be =3E changed over to LSA=2E Why=3F=2E=2E=2E=2EBecause it does not have to =2E If =3E the aircraft in question meets the definition of an LSA aircraft =3E per FAR 1 then the aircraft may be operated under the LSA rules =3E irregardless of the aircracft certification category=2C =3E Experimental=2C Standard=2C whatever=2E =3E =3E =3E =3E Mike Robertson =3E =3E Das Fed =3E =3E =3E =3E From=3A rv6n=40optonline=2Enet =3E Subject=3A RV-List=3A converting an RV to LSA =3E To=3A rv-list=40matronics=2Ecom =3E =3E =3E =3E Dear RVers =3E =3E This might sound ridiculous but does anyone know if it is =3E possible to convert a registered RV6 to fly within the LSA =3E guidelines=3F I know it might take mountains of changes but I am =3E just wondering if it is at all possible=2E Some of the obstacles =3E to overcome would include addressing the the weight=2C I think =3E that might be possible by stripping out all the niceties and =3E getting back to only what is basic=2E Another way to reduce the =3E weight is by doing what one of the LSA companies do which is to =3E just say that the baggage capacity is now only xx instead of =3E what it is actually capable of=2E The next concern is speed at =3E full power=2E With the existing O-360 this might be difficult=2E =3E One LSA company uses a ground adjustable prop to limit the max =3E speed of their airplane=2C so I am sure that would help=2E =3E Eliminating the good looking wheel pants could add some drag =3E too=2E Some props have RPM restrictions which must be adhered to =3E willingly=2E Can the operating limitations specify a maximum =3E speed of 120 kts or an RPM that limits the speed to 120 kts=2E =3E Some LSAs have a higher RPM for a maximum number of minutes for =3E take-off and then a reduced RPM thereafter=2E How could the clean =3E stall speed be reduced to 52 MPH=3F Would the lighter weight and =3E maybe some vortex generators accomplish that=3F From what I have =3E read=2C no plane can be flown as an LSA unless it has always been =3E able to fly within the parameters of one=2C so=2C is it possible to =3E de-register my RV6=2C surrender the data plate and re-register it =3E as a plane that is capable of flying within the LSA parameters=2E =3E =3E Maybe I am crazy for wondering about this but I am not =3E interested in building another plane =2Cthe market has been too =3E soft for selling at a reasonable price and I don=27t want to spend =3E =24125=2C000 for an LSA=2E I am sure I am not the only one with a =3E medical problem that has wondered this=2C so is this doable or =3E just a foolish wish=2E =3E =3E Bob =3E =5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F =5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F =5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F=5F =3E Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage lim its=2E =3E http=3A//windowslive=2Ecom/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage=3Focid=TXT=5FT AGLM=5FWL=5FHM=5FTutorial=5FStorage1=5F052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2009
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
At 12:36 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: >The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. > >gross weight over 1320 you can't go back.> Mike, I know it is not *very* easy, but can't you make some "minor" change in your airframe, power plant, or prop and then declare that the aircraft no longer has the ability to carry 1320 + lbs? Then apply for the "self conducted" 5 hour re-certification. Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
Date: May 03, 2009
Again - NO. However, if you did all that before you ever got the airplane certified then it may be possible. This is no different than trying to change a fat ercoupe or fat chief that were to heavy for LSA...or a C-120/140. You simply can't go backwards with the paperwork, even if you can with the physical plane. There are a lot of planes that could be "lightened", but that in itself won't work because the paperwork at one time said your plane had a higher gross weight. I think it's pretty clear in my opinion. I would put my efforts into just building an LSA the first time. My 2 cents as usual. Cheers, Stein >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Louis Willig >Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 2:07 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > > >At 12:36 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: >>The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. >> >>>gross weight over 1320 you can't go back.> > >Mike, > >I know it is not *very* easy, but can't you make some "minor" change >in your airframe, power plant, or prop and then declare that the >aircraft no longer has the ability to carry 1320 + lbs? Then apply >for the "self conducted" 5 hour re-certification. > > >Louis I Willig >1640 Oakwood Dr. >Penn Valley, PA 19072 >610 668-4964 >RV-4, N180PF >190HP IO-360, C/S prop > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: converting an RV to LSA
SteinAir, Inc. wrote: > > Again - NO. snip > > I think it's pretty clear in my opinion. I would put my efforts into just > building an LSA the first time. And you could build your RV very light, the way you want it. You could probably remove the data plate from the engine, put a smaller carb on it, ...... to derate the engine ..... and have it meet all the LSA requirements ...... and then fix the problems later after certification and the phase 1 testing. And you'd end up with the same airplane in the LSA category. Far more work than you really want, I guess, but still easier than making the present plane fit the category. Turning in the airworthiness certificate, making the changes to make the airplane legal LSA and re-certifying it may work. Stranger things have happened. Linn > > My 2 cents as usual. > > Cheers, > Stein > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Louis Willig >> Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 2:07 PM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RE: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA >> >> >> >> At 12:36 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: >>> The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. >>> >>> >> gross weight over 1320 you can't go back.> >> Mike, >> >> I know it is not *very* easy, but can't you make some "minor" change >> in your airframe, power plant, or prop and then declare that the >> aircraft no longer has the ability to carry 1320 + lbs? Then apply >> for the "self conducted" 5 hour re-certification. >> >> >> >> >> >> Louis I Willig >> 1640 Oakwood Dr. >> Penn Valley, PA 19072 >> 610 668-4964 >> RV-4, N180PF >> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2009
From: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oxygen
- I suggest one purchase a new 244cu ft or a 300cu ft.cylinder, or more for c ascade filling,-then paint or stamp your name on the cylinder then insist (eccentric request so fake a tic) on getting your marked cylinder back if your are worried about contamination. Sherman Butler RV-7a Wings N497GS reserved Carlsbad, NM --- On Sat, 5/2/09, Tim Olson wrote: Welders are also very concerned with purity of gasses or their welds will be contaminated or weak. So everyone has a huge concern for gas purity.- Thay may have been why they decided to go to single-source filling.- Like I said before though, there are some situations where they will pull a vacuum on a cylinder before filling it, to empty it first.- So they may do this for some medical/aviation O2, hence that may be why they just want to swap you.- But, if you're always filling it with pure O2 you have no worries. Additionally, one thing you should try to do is never run your bottle completely empty.- Keeping 100psi in it at all times will ensure that no contamination gets in. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter Laurence" <dr.laurence(at)mbdi.org>
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
Date: May 04, 2009
Bob, My 2 cents If you want to fly an LSA and stay with a vans, buy a RV9A. This plane can be certified LSA with an. appropriate engine/prop. Peter _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6n(at)optonline.net Sent: Saturday, May 02, 2009 10:09 PM Subject: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA Dear RVers This might sound ridiculous but does anyone know if it is possible to convert a registered RV6 to fly within the LSA guidelines? I know it might take mountains of changes but I am just wondering if it is at all possible. Some of the obstacles to overcome would include addressing the the weight, I think that might be possible by stripping out all the niceties and getting back to only what is basic. Another way to reduce the weight is by doing what one of the LSA companies do which is to just say that the baggage capacity is now only xx instead of what it is actually capable of. The next concern is speed at full power. With the existing O-360 this might be difficult. One LSA company uses a ground adjustable prop to limit the max speed of their airplane, so I am sure that would help. Eliminating the good looking wheel pants could add some drag too. Some props have RPM restrictions which must be adhered to willingly. Can the operating limitations specify a maximum speed of 120 kts or an RPM that limits the speed to 120 kts. Some LSAs have a higher RPM for a maximum number of minutes for take-off and then a reduced RPM thereafter. How could the clean stall speed be reduced to 52 MPH? Would the lighter weight and maybe some vortex generators accomplish that? From what I have read, no plane can be flown as an LSA unless it has always been able to fly within the parameters of one, so, is it possible to de-register my RV6, surrender the data plate and re-register it as a plane that is capable of flying within the LSA parameters. Maybe I am crazy for wondering about this but I am not interested in building another plane ,the market has been too soft for selling at a reasonable price and I don't want to spend $125,000 for an LSA. I am sure I am not the only one with a medical problem that has wondered this, so is this doable or just a foolish wish. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
Date: May 04, 2009
Answer #1 is yes=2C they can do that as they are the manufacturer and it is for brand new aircraft that have never received an airworthiness certifica te. Answer #2 is NO=2C sorry. The FAA keeps track of the serial number as well as the 'N' number. Mike Robertson Das Fed Date: Sun=2C 3 May 2009 17:48:26 +0000 From: rv6n(at)optonline.net Subject: Re: RE: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA Dear Mike=2C I was speaking with the people selling the Paradise LSA from Brazil and the y said that in Brazil they have their plane certified as a four seater with a gross weight in excess of 1700 lbs. In order to certify it LSA in the U SA they removed the two rear seats and declared the baggage capacity to be less. Is this something totally different? Is it possible to de register t he RV and apply all over again? I suppose it is time to moth-ball the RV. Thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Robertson Date: Sunday=2C May 3=2C 2009 12:53 pm Subject: RE: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > > The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. > > > > The long answer is twofold. Once your aircraft has been given a > gross weight over 1320 you can't go back. The next answer is > that once an aircraft is certificated in a class it can't be > changed over to LSA. Why?....Because it does not have to. If > the aircraft in question meets the definition of an LSA aircraft > per FAR 1 then the aircraft may be operated under the LSA rules > irregardless of the aircracft certification category=2C > Experimental=2C Standard=2C whatever. > > > > Mike Robertson > > Das Fed > > > > Date: Sun=2C 3 May 2009 02:08:49 +0000 > From: rv6n(at)optonline.net > Subject: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > > Dear RVers > > This might sound ridiculous but does anyone know if it is > possible to convert a registered RV6 to fly within the LSA > guidelines? I know it might take mountains of changes but I am > just wondering if it is at all possible. Some of the obstacles > to overcome would include addressing the the weight=2C I think > that might be possible by stripping out all the niceties and > getting back to only what is basic. Another way to reduce the > weight is by doing what one of the LSA companies do which is to > just say that the baggage capacity is now only xx instead of > what it is actually capable of. The next concern is speed at > full power. With the existing O-360 this might be difficult. > One LSA company uses a ground adjustable prop to limit the max > speed of their airplane=2C so I am sure that would help. > Eliminating the good looking wheel pants could add some drag > too. Some props have RPM restrictions which must be adhered to > willingly. Can the operating limitations specify a maximum > speed of 120 kts or an RPM that limits the speed to 120 kts. > Some LSAs have a higher RPM for a maximum number of minutes for > take-off and then a reduced RPM thereafter. How could the clean > stall speed be reduced to 52 MPH? Would the lighter weight and > maybe some vortex generators accomplish that? From what I have > read=2C no plane can be flown as an LSA unless it has always been > able to fly within the parameters of one=2C so=2C is it possible to > de-register my RV6=2C surrender the data plate and re-register it > as a plane that is capable of flying within the LSA parameters. > > Maybe I am crazy for wondering about this but I am not > interested in building another plane =2Cthe market has been too > soft for selling at a reasonable price and I don't want to spend > $125=2C000 for an LSA. I am sure I am not the only one with a > medical problem that has wondered this=2C so is this doable or > just a foolish wish. > > Bob > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits. > http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tu torial_Storage1_052009 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail=AE goes with you. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutor ial_Mobile1_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)Hotmail.com>
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
Date: May 04, 2009
Unfortunately no. The opening statement in FAR 1 for a light-sport aircraf t states "Light-sport aircraft means an aircraft=2C other than a helicopter or powered-lift that=2C since its original certification=2C has continued to meet the following:". There are several standard category aircraft that this hurt. A prime examp le is the Ercoupe. The 'C' model meets light-sport weights but the 'D' mod el does not. Numerous 'C' models were converted to 'D' models. Now they w ant to go back to being a 'C' model but they can't because of this wording. Mike Robertson Das Fed > Date: Sun=2C 3 May 2009 15:06:54 -0400 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > From: larywil(at)comcast.net > Subject: RE: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > > > At 12:36 PM 5/3/2009=2C you wrote: > >The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. > > > > >gross weight over 1320 you can't go back.> > > Mike=2C > > I know it is not *very* easy=2C but can't you make some "minor" change > in your airframe=2C power plant=2C or prop and then declare that the > aircraft no longer has the ability to carry 1320 + lbs? Then apply > for the "self conducted" 5 hour re-certification. > > > > > > Louis I Willig > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > Penn Valley=2C PA 19072 > 610 668-4964 > RV-4=2C N180PF > 190HP IO-360=2C C/S prop > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: converting an RV to LSA
Date: May 04, 2009
If you had an existing RV, with an airworthiness certificate, you would probably need to make quite a few modifications before you could legitimately claim it met LSA specs. What if, after making these changes, the manufacturer (you) decided that the changes were substantial enough that this was really a new design. After assembling the modified amateur-built components from the old aircraft, the manufacturer installs a new data plate, with a new model and serial number, and with a gross weight of 1320 lb. Bingo - a potential LSA, assuming flight tests show it meets LSA specs. Why wouldn't this work? Kevin Horton On 4 May 2009, at 13:06, Mike Robertson wrote: > Unfortunately no. The opening statement in FAR 1 for a light-sport > aircraft states "Light-sport aircraft means an aircraft, other than > a helicopter or powered-lift that, since its original certification, > has continued to meet the following:". > > There are several standard category aircraft that this hurt. A > prime example is the Ercoupe. The 'C' model meets light-sport > weights but the 'D' model does not. Numerous 'C' models were > converted to 'D' models. Now they want to go back to being a 'C' > model but they can't because of this wording. > > Mike Robertson > Das Fed > > > Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 15:06:54 -0400 > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > From: larywil(at)comcast.net > > Subject: RE: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > > > > > > At 12:36 PM 5/3/2009, you wrote: > > >The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. > > > > > > > >gross weight over 1320 you can't go back.> > > > > Mike, > > > > I know it is not *very* easy, but can't you make some "minor" change > > in your airframe, power plant, or prop and then declare that the > > aircraft no longer has the ability to carry 1320 + lbs? Then apply > > for the "self conducted" 5 hour re-certification. > > > > > > > > > > > > Louis I Willig > > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > > Penn Valley, PA 19072 > > 610 668-4964 > > RV-4, N180PF > >= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, > &g= > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: converting an RV to LSA
Date: May 04, 2009
It might. there are a couple of RV-9A's in Florida that are LSA qualified. Mike Robertson > From: khorton01(at)rogers.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > Date: Mon=2C 4 May 2009 14:36:15 -0400 > > > If you had an existing RV=2C with an airworthiness certificate=2C you > would probably need to make quite a few modifications before you could > legitimately claim it met LSA specs. What if=2C after making these > changes=2C the manufacturer (you) decided that the changes were > substantial enough that this was really a new design. After > assembling the modified amateur-built components from the old > aircraft=2C the manufacturer installs a new data plate=2C with a new mode l > and serial number=2C and with a gross weight of 1320 lb. Bingo - a > potential LSA=2C assuming flight tests show it meets LSA specs. > > Why wouldn't this work? > > Kevin Horton > > > On 4 May 2009=2C at 13:06=2C Mike Robertson wrote: > > > Unfortunately no. The opening statement in FAR 1 for a light-sport > > aircraft states "Light-sport aircraft means an aircraft=2C other than > > a helicopter or powered-lift that=2C since its original certification =2C > > has continued to meet the following:". > > > > There are several standard category aircraft that this hurt. A > > prime example is the Ercoupe. The 'C' model meets light-sport > > weights but the 'D' model does not. Numerous 'C' models were > > converted to 'D' models. Now they want to go back to being a 'C' > > model but they can't because of this wording. > > > > Mike Robertson > > Das Fed > > > > > Date: Sun=2C 3 May 2009 15:06:54 -0400 > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > From: larywil(at)comcast.net > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: converting an RV to LSA > > > > > > > > > At 12:36 PM 5/3/2009=2C you wrote: > > > >The simple answer to your questino is 'NO'. > > > > > > > > > > >gross weight over 1320 you can't go back.> > > > > > > Mike=2C > > > > > > I know it is not *very* easy=2C but can't you make some "minor" chang e > > > in your airframe=2C power plant=2C or prop and then declare that the > > > aircraft no longer has the ability to carry 1320 + lbs? Then apply > > > for the "self conducted" 5 hour re-certification. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Louis I Willig > > > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > > > Penn Valley=2C PA 19072 > > > 610 668-4964 > > > RV-4=2C N180PF > > >= Archive Search & Download=2C 7-Day Browse=2C Chat=2C FAQ=2C > > &g= > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail=AE has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut orial_WhatsNew1_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Hurd" <hurd(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: RV6A Strange Odor
Date: May 04, 2009
Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in 6A(500hr TT, hangared, south Texas) have noticed stong odor right at liftoff. Something between dead rat and burned pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oil. It comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at zero G. Fades at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No other aircraft anomalies observed. There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil filler door. Detailed engine inspection revealed no bird nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or other usual suspects. No wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and wheel pants. Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing habits have been ruled out ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV6A Strange Odor
At 02:24 PM 5/4/2009 Monday, you wrote: >Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in 6A(500hr TT, hangared, south Texas) have noticed stong odor right at liftoff. Something between dead rat and burned pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oil. It comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at zero G. Fades at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No other aircraft anomalies observed. > >There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil filler door. Detailed engine inspection revealed no bird nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or other usual suspects. No wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and wheel pants. > >Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing habits have been ruled out Burnt toast? Sure you're not having a stroke... ;-) Matt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2009
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV6A Strange Odor
You might want to shine a flashlight up your exhaust stacks. You might have a crematorium going on in one of them. :-( Stick a coat hanger up to verify that there are no obstructions. Charlie Kuss --- On Mon, 5/4/09, Jim Hurd wrote: > From: Jim Hurd <hurd(at)gvtc.com> > Subject: RV-List: RV6A Strange Odor > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, May 4, 2009, 5:24 PM > Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in > 6A(500hr TT, hangared, south Texas) have noticed stong odor > right at liftoff. Something between dead rat and burned > pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oil. It > comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at > zero G. Fades at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No > other aircraft anomalies observed. > > There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil > filler door. Detailed engine inspection revealed no bird > nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or other usual suspects. No > wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin > heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and > wheel pants. > > Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a > similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing > habits have been ruled out ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au>
Date: May 05, 2009
Subject: RV6A Strange Odor
Have a look in your wheel pants ________________________________ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Hurd Sent: Tuesday, 5 May 2009 7:24 AM Subject: RV-List: RV6A Strange Odor Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in 6A(500hr TT, hangar ed, south Texas) have noticed stong odor right at liftoff. Something betwe en dead rat and burned pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oi l. It comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at zero G. Fa des at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No other aircraft anomalies observed. There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil filler door. Detai led engine inspection revealed no bird nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or ot her usual suspects. No wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and wheel p ants. Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing habits have been ruled out ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: RV6A Strange Odor
Date: May 04, 2009
Matt A few years ago I found hazelnut shells on the floor of my Piper Cherokee. I never could figure out where they came from. Fast forward a year or two and I found that *something* made a nest in the insulation behind the panel. I only found it when I replaced the stock 1966 Piper insulation with something newer. Bottom line is to check carefully behind the panel. I had been on my back under the panel(as was my avionics shop) several times and had never seen the nest. Cheers Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: May-04-09 3:38 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Strange Odor At 02:24 PM 5/4/2009 Monday, you wrote: >Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in 6A(500hr TT, hangared, south Texas) have noticed stong odor right at liftoff. Something between dead rat and burned pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oil. It comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at zero G. Fades at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No other aircraft anomalies observed. > >There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil filler door. Detailed engine inspection revealed no bird nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or other usual suspects. No wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and wheel pants. > >Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing habits have been ruled out Burnt toast? Sure you're not having a stroke... ;-) Matt ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2009
Subject: Re: RV6A Strange Odor
From: Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com>
Jim, I know of a guy that let his plane sit thru the winter in Rochester N.Y. and then in the spring took the plane for a spin. Shortly into the flight he smelled something burning. He brought the plane back and on inspection he found that Chipmunks had hidden their nuts in the heater shroud at the muffler. HTH Larry Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in 6A(500hr TT, hangared, south Texas) have noticed stong odor right at liftoff. Something between dead rat and burned pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oil. It comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at zero G. Fades at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No other aircraft anomalies observed. There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil filler door. Detailed engine inspection revealed no bird nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or other usual suspects. No wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and wheel pants. Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing habits have been ruled out ____________________________________________________________ Click to learn about options trading and get the latest information. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIzQYPsbj9WJ8VIm85k6ZxPGFzIN0evX3nvk6md8gx89l9auiRf0U/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tailgummer(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2009
Subject: Re: RV6A Strange Odor
Ouch! In a message dated 5/5/2009 7:41:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, lm4(at)juno.com writes: Jim, I know of a guy that let his plane sit thru the winter in Rochester N.Y. and then in the spring took the plane for a spin. Shortly into the flight he smelled something burning. He brought the plane back and on inspection he found that Chipmunks had hidden their nuts in the heater shroud at the muffler. HTH Larry (mailto:hurd(at)gvtc.com) > writes: Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in 6A(500hr TT, hangared, south Texas) have noticed stong odor right at liftoff. Something between dead rat and burned pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oil. It comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at zero G. Fades at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No other aircraft anomalies observed. There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil filler door. Detailed engine inspection revealed no bird nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or other usual suspects. No wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and wheel pants. Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing habits have been ruled out =================================== tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ==================================== ronics.com ==================================== www.matronics.com/contribution ==================================== ____________________________________________________________ _Click to learn about options trading and get the latest information._ (http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/fc/BLSrjpTIzQYPsbj9WJ8VIm85k6ZxPGFzIN0 evX3nvk6md8gx89l9auiRf0U/) (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: fiberglass fairings
Date: May 06, 2009
Drill two or three holes through the fairing and through the wheel pants. Hold fairings in place with clecoes. Glass the fairing onto the pant. Fill the holes and file everything smooth. Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB San Antonio ----------------------------------------------------- From: maurice murillo <maurice609(at)live.com> Subject: RV-List: fiberglass fairings Hi: any one has photos off the isntallation of the wheel fairings? I bought t he set from Van's=2C which one must do a lot of sanding and fiberglass=2C on them. They are fitted and finished now. What is the best way to hold them in place? Has any one used Velcro? Cou ld that work? Appreciate photos comments maurice ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2009
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: RV9- Light Sport
Bill Pagan wrote: > Anybody know what engine they're using in the RV9 LSA? > > Bill Pagan > There is one on Barnstormers: http://www.barnstormers.com/cat.php?PHPSESSID=daf826da51100049ce84db554f45a01c john ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV4WGH(at)aol.com
Date: May 06, 2009
Subject: INSTALLING WHEEL PANTS
In a message dated 5/6/2009 2:02:51 A.M. Central Daylight Time, rv-list(at)matronics.com writes: I would follow the plans. Don't suggest velcro. Wally Hunt Rockford, IL RV-4 Finishing Kit ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ From: maurice murillo <maurice609(at)live.com> Subject: RV-List: fiberglass fairings Hi: any one has photos off the isntallation of the wheel fairings? I bought t he set from Van's=2C which one must do a lot of sanding and fiberglass=2C on them. They are fitted and finished now. What is the best way to hold them in place? Has any one used Velcro? Cou ld that work? Appreciate photos comments maurice rv6a do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009 ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== ======================== =========== **************Big savings on Dell=99s most popular laptops. Now star ting at $449! =http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2009
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: RV9- Light Sport
John Morgensen wrote: > Bill Pagan wrote: >> Anybody know what engine they're using in the RV9 LSA? >> >> Bill Pagan >> > There is one on Barnstormers: > > http://www.barnstormers.com/cat.php?PHPSESSID=daf826da51100049ce84db554f45a01c > > john I thought the link would take you directly to the add in barnstormers. Look in Experimental->Van's RV. The adds are posted newest first and the one I found was posted April 21. The plane has an O-235. john ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2009
Subject: Re: RV9- Light Sport
From: Ollie Washburn <ollies7s(at)gmail.com>
The one at south lakeland has Lyc 0-235 Ollie On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 8:35 AM, John Morgensen wrote: > Bill Pagan wrote: > > Anybody know what engine they're using in the RV9 LSA? > > Bill Pagan > > There is one on Barnstormers: > > http://www.barnstormers.com/cat.php?PHPSESSID=daf826da51100049ce84db554f45a01c > > john > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV9- Light Sport
Date: May 06, 2009
They're using the Rotax 912S engine. 100 HP. Garry Stout ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Pagan To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 7:32 AM Subject: RV-List: RV9- Light Sport Anybody know what engine they're using in the RV9 LSA? Bill Pagan ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV9- Light Sport
Date: May 06, 2009
Ollie is correct. I was thinking the RV-12A which uses the Rotax. Yes, the Lakeland based Jay Kurtz RV-9A light sport uses an 0-235 engine. Garry Stout ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ollie Washburn" <ollies7s(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 9:57 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9- Light Sport > > The one at south lakeland has Lyc 0-235 > Ollie > > > On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 8:35 AM, John Morgensen wrote: >> Bill Pagan wrote: >> >> Anybody know what engine they're using in the RV9 LSA? >> >> Bill Pagan >> >> There is one on Barnstormers: >> >> http://www.barnstormers.com/cat.php?PHPSESSID=daf826da51100049ce84db554f45a01c >> >> john >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Hurd" <hurd(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: RV6A Strange Odor
Date: May 06, 2009
Larry MacDonald is the default winner of the "Strange Odor Contest." Larry's guess was chipmunk MRE's in the heater shroud. In fact, the odor was emanating from the carcass of a very large moth which had crawled several feet down 1" scat tubing to the very bottom of the cabin heat shroud around the exhaust. I found the well-done moth after a complete disassembly of the muff. Thanks to all for suggestions. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Mac Donald To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 9:33 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A Strange Odor Jim, I know of a guy that let his plane sit thru the winter in Rochester N.Y. and then in the spring took the plane for a spin. Shortly into the flight he smelled something burning. He brought the plane back and on inspection he found that Chipmunks had hidden their nuts in the heater shroud at the muffler. HTH Larry Hope somebody can help out here... Last two flights in 6A(500hr TT, hangared, south Texas) have noticed stong odor right at liftoff. Something between dead rat and burned pizza. Definitely organic, not wiring, rubber or oil. It comes and goes during flight, maybe a little stronger at zero G. Fades at touchdown, completely gone by shutdown. No other aircraft anomalies observed. There is a faint odor similar to burnt toast at the oil filler door. Detailed engine inspection revealed no bird nests, dirt-dauber dormitories or other usual suspects. No wires or hoses anywhere near hot parts. Nothing in cabin heat or fresh air scat tubing. Next to check: tail cone and wheel pants. Would sure like to hear from anyone who has solved a similar problem. And yes, the pilot's diet and bathing habits have been ruled out tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ronics.com www.matronics.com/contribution ____________________________________________________________ Click to learn about options trading and get the latest information. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 06, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Carpet Pattern Ideas For RV-8 Foot wells...
Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the passenger foot wells on their RV-8? Specifically how they integrated it with the cabin area carpet piece. I'm thinking of just a square hole cut out around the parameter of the foot well, then adding some sort of insert into the foot well itself. That's a lot of weird angles, though. Thanks! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 Ah, Carpet Pattern Making... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com>
Subject: Making carpet stick to the floor insulation
Date: May 07, 2009
While Matt brings up carpet it reminds me of the issue I am having. I have the white Styrofoam *Looking* insulation on the floor of my RV6 up front. We have glued the carpet down three times and it only lasts until the next passenger who can't seem to get out efficiently manages with their legs to get it all loose again. I originally tried two sided tape, then I used contact cement in the corners and spots in the middle and lastly I sprayed adhesive over the entire area and back of carpet. It came out right away every time. On the left seat side it isn't a problem as I can get out without pushing with my feet forward like that. Anybody else had this problem, or if you didn't; what did you use? Tim Bryan RV-6 Flying N616TBover 120 hours now ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: footwell carpet
Date: May 07, 2009
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
SNIP Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted the passenger foot wells on their RV-8? SNIP Nonskid wing walk material works well in many areas of the cabin floor. It's light and doesn't hold dirt, water, or vomit. The non-gritty stuff works best. I have a painted floor in my plane, non-skid applied where needed, and I like it. Very low maintenance. I have also seen very nice carpet jobs where the hole around the footwell has been serged to stop fraying. Vince Frazier Flyboy Accessories 3963 Caborn Road Mount Vernon, IN 47620 812-464-1839 1-888-8FLYBOY 1-888-835-9269 www.flyboyaccessories.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)iflyrv10.com>
Subject: Re: Making carpet stick to the floor insulation
Date: May 07, 2009
Tim, I've found the best way is similar to what they do in the marine industry. stainless snaps pop riveted to the floor pan and female snaps crimped onto the carpet. snap in and out without any movement. about 3 bucks worth of hardware. a local (marine / custom auto) upholstery shop should have everything on hand. steve dinieri iflyrv10.com -------------------------------------------------- From: "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 7:52 AM Subject: RV-List: Making carpet stick to the floor insulation > > While Matt brings up carpet it reminds me of the issue I am having. I > have > the white Styrofoam *Looking* insulation on the floor of my RV6 up front. > We have glued the carpet down three times and it only lasts until the next > passenger who can't seem to get out efficiently manages with their legs to > get it all loose again. I originally tried two sided tape, then I used > contact cement in the corners and spots in the middle and lastly I sprayed > adhesive over the entire area and back of carpet. It came out right away > every time. On the left seat side it isn't a problem as I can get out > without pushing with my feet forward like that. > > Anybody else had this problem, or if you didn't; what did you use? > > Tim Bryan > RV-6 Flying > N616TB over 120 hours now > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2009
From: Richard Seiders <seiders(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Making carpet stick to the floor insulation
I used Home Depot rubber mat (interlocking type) for 6A floor. Cut it to fit between the floor stiffener angles. It's noise reducing, vibration reducing, looks great , and holds itself on the floor without any help. Still looks great after 600 hrs of use. 52 AM 5/7/2009, you wrote: > >While Matt brings up carpet it reminds me of the issue I am having. I have >the white Styrofoam *Looking* insulation on the floor of my RV6 up front. >We have glued the carpet down three times and it only lasts until the next >passenger who can't seem to get out efficiently manages with their legs to >get it all loose again. I originally tried two sided tape, then I used >contact cement in the corners and spots in the middle and lastly I sprayed >adhesive over the entire area and back of carpet. It came out right away >every time. On the left seat side it isn't a problem as I can get out >without pushing with my feet forward like that. > >Anybody else had this problem, or if you didn't; what did you use? > >Tim Bryan >RV-6 Flying >N616TB over 120 hours now > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2009
Subject: Re: footwell carpet
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I'll second that. I got some rubbery wing walk material from the MAC servo people and used in the foot wells. Worked great. -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 9:43 AM, Frazier, Vincent A wrote: > > SNIP Does anyone have some ideas and/or pictures of how they carpeted > the passenger > foot wells on their RV-8? SNIP > > Nonskid wing walk material works well in many areas of the cabin floor. > It's light and doesn't hold dirt, water, or vomit. The non-gritty stuff > works best. > > I have a painted floor in my plane, non-skid applied where needed, and I > like it. Very low maintenance. > > I have also seen very nice carpet jobs where the hole around the > footwell has been serged to stop fraying. > > > Vince Frazier > Flyboy Accessories > 3963 Caborn Road > Mount Vernon, IN 47620 > 812-464-1839 > 1-888-8FLYBOY > 1-888-835-9269 > www.flyboyaccessories.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: A bit of corrosion...
Date: May 07, 2009
Hi all, I got some aluminum cleaner on one of my elevator skins accidently (see attached) and didn't notice it was there until it left some corrosion on the skin. I'm just getting to the tailcone, so it is going to be a while before I was going to paint (I'm planning to paint after the fly-off period so it will be a couple of years) Is this something I need to worry about? Should I clean it off, and if so, what should I use and how to ensure I don't make it worse? One other thing I thought of is to use the corrosion protection that I am using and put that on the outside of the skins. I am using Sanchem 6100 and they say you don't have to put the sealer on top of it if you are going to paint, and that you don't have to paint or prime immediately. If any of you are using the Sanchem stuff what are your recommendations? Thanks, James -- #40400 RV-10 finishing up elevators/trim tabs http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2009
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A bit of corrosion...
James, Polish the corrosion off of the affected areas, using your 2" Roloc ScotchBrite discs. Use the fine (blue) discs to do this. Once you have cleaned the area, reapply the Sanchem to the area you cleaned. Charlie Kuss --- On Thu, 5/7/09, James Ochs wrote: > From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> > Subject: RV-List: A bit of corrosion... > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 4:36 PM > Hi all, > > I got some aluminum cleaner on one of my elevator skins > accidently (see attached) and didn't notice it was there > until it left some corrosion on the skin. I'm just > getting to the tailcone, so it is going to be a while before > I was going to paint (I'm planning to paint after the > fly-off period so it will be a couple of years) Is this > something I need to worry about? Should I clean it off, and > if so, what should I use and how to ensure I don't make > it worse? > > One other thing I thought of is to use the corrosion > protection that I am using and put that on the outside of > the skins. I am using Sanchem 6100 and they say you > don't have to put the sealer on top of it if you are > going to paint, and that you don't have to paint or > prime immediately. If any of you are using the Sanchem > stuff what are your recommendations? > > > Thanks, > James > > -- #40400 > RV-10 finishing up elevators/trim tabs > http://www.froody.org/heartofgold/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: maurice murillo <maurice609(at)live.com>
Subject: RE: fiberglass fairings
Date: May 08, 2009
Charles: Thanks for the info. maurice From: chasb(at)satx.rr.com Subject: fiberglass fairings Date: Wed=2C 6 May 2009 02:31:43 -0500 CC: maurice609(at)live.com Drill two or three holes through the fairing and through the wheel pants. H old fairings in place with clecoes. Glass the fairing onto the pant. Fill t he holes and file everything smooth. Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB San Antonio ----------------------------------------------------- From: maurice murillo <maurice609(at)live.com> Subject: RV-List: fiberglass fairings Hi: any one has photos off the isntallation of the wheel fairings? I bought t he set from Van's=2C which one must do a lot of sanding and fiberglass= 2C on them. They are fitted and finished now. What is the best way to hold them in place? Has any one used Velcro? Cou ld that work? Appreciate photos comments maurice _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail=AE has ever-growing storage! Don=92t worry about storage limits. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tuto rial_Storage1_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer(at)internet49.com>
Subject: RV10 Tail Kit for Sale
Date: May 08, 2009
I'm posting this for a local RV-6 pilot who is unable to complete his RV10 project. The project is located at Calaveras Airport San Andreas, CA. (KCPU) --Larry Mersek RV-6, flying RV10 Tail Kit for sale. Vertical and rudder are built. The horizontal is drilled to fit, dimpled, countersunk, and has been clecoed together before. It is ready for primer and priced at $2500. Marc at (209) 609-1947. fieldbaren(at)volcano.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Grenwis(at)aol.com
Date: May 08, 2009
Subject: Triennial Aircraft Registration Report
I just received a Triennial Aircraft Registration Report via snail mail from the FAA. What is this? Is this the new user fee that makes me re-register every three years so I can pay a fee? Rick **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! =May5509AvgfooterNO115) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Triennial Aircraft Registration Report
Date: May 08, 2009
I got one a short bit ago too. Mine said something to the effect of if this info is correct you don't need to do anything. The fact that you got it and it didn't go back to the FAA as undeliverable verifies the address. Unless your is a different one than what I got....no fees involved - yet...... ----- Original Message ----- From: Grenwis(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 5:39 PM Subject: RV-List: Triennial Aircraft Registration Report I just received a Triennial Aircraft Registration Report via snail mail from the FAA. What is this? Is this the new user fee that makes me re-register every three years so I can pay a fee? Rick ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- A Good Credit Score is 700 or67171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc= 668072%26hmpgID=115%26bcd=May5509AvgfooterNO115>See yours in just 2 easy steps! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Triennial Aircraft Registration Report
Grenwis(at)aol.com wrote: > I just received a Triennial Aircraft Registration Report via snail > mail from the FAA. What is this? Is this the new user fee that makes > me re-register every three years so I can pay a fee? > Rick Somebody smart once said that you should never assume the explanation is a conspiracy when incompetence will do. They just want verification that the plane hasn't changed hands without them knowing about it, just in case you sold it to some 'Turrist' or 'Dope Runner'. Can't have somebody runnin' a hunnert pounds of Pot into the side of some building, now can we? (Of course, they'll tell you it's to keep everyone informed about Safety issues, but we know better, right?) Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Triennial Aircraft Registration Report
Date: May 08, 2009
One thing you want to ensure does not happen to is what (almost) happened to me. The FAA at some point in the last 5 or so years apparently got pressured (presumably by the states) to put the county you reside in as part of your registration - No, they did not ask. They took your mailing ZIP code and inferred that was where you kept your aircraft. It turns out my mailing ZIP code is also that of an adjacent town in the adjoining (can you say HIGH TAX ) county. Well, that information got sent to the HIGH TAX county tax department and they had been hounding me for Taxes for the last three years - despite my repeated statement and residential address that neither I nor any of my property had ever been resident in that county. This went back and forth with them beginning to make threats. Finally, I went to the FAA web site and found that the FAA had placed my aircraft in the wrong county. I got that corrected finally and the nice folks in the HIGH TAX county were kind enough to take it upon themselves to inform the Tax folks in my county. To make a long story short the HIGH TAX county wanted something like $5000 in taxes while the folks in my county only wanted around $100 per year on a declining value piece of property. So I can't recall if the triannual form has your county on it - but I would check the registration at the FAA to make certain they have it correct (or incorrect if that is you preference {:>) Ed Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com <http://www.andersonee.com> http://www.andersonee.com <http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html http://www.flyrotary.com/ <http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm <http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html> _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Grenwis(at)aol.com Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 5:40 PM Subject: RV-List: Triennial Aircraft Registration Report I just received a Triennial Aircraft Registration Report via snail mail from the FAA. What is this? Is this the new user fee that makes me re-register every three years so I can pay a fee? Rick _____ A Good Credit Score is 700 or67171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072% 26hmpgID=115%26bcd=May5509AvgfooterNO115>See yours in just 2 easy steps! __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3267 (20080714) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly
Date: May 08, 2009
Poor ring seating due to glazing has me preparing to re-install the freshly redone top end. I have an older Lycoming engine overhaul manual but the info in it is not specific to my engine. I am seeking information regarding re-installation of pistons, rings and cylinders on my O-360-A1A narrow deck engine. I'm hoping someone might be able to send me the pertinent pages or paragraphs from a Lycoming or Superior engine assembly manual. Also I need the information section on how to establish the correct valve clearance by swapping out push rods. A reference to a web page would work fine as well. Jim in Kelowna (250) 861-8706 Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (5.0.1.1 - 10.100.128). http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly
If you have the roughly 1974 vintage Lycoming overhaul manual it IS the current manual!!! Of course then you have to wade through the 2000 or so service bulletins, letters and instructions that they have issued since to modify said manual. Incredibly, the FAA hasn't made Lycoming do an update incorporating all those service directives in almost 40 years. Jim wrote: > > > Poor ring seating due to glazing has me preparing to re-install the > freshly redone top end. > I have an older Lycoming engine overhaul manual but the info in it is > not specific to my engine. > > I am seeking information regarding re-installation of pistons, > rings and cylinders on my O-360-A1A narrow deck engine. > I'm hoping someone might be able to send me the pertinent pages or > paragraphs from a Lycoming or Superior engine assembly manual. > Also I need the information section on how to establish the correct > valve clearance by swapping out push rods. > A reference to a web page would work fine as well. > > > Jim in Kelowna (250) 861-8706 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2009
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly
Kelly, -You are incorrect regarding the 1974 version of Lycoming's Direct Drive Engine Overhaul Manual # 60294-7 being current. Since 1974, Lycoming as per iodically updated the manual. Each update added a higher "dash" number afte r the 7. The current revision of the manual is 60294-7-12. The latest revis ion was released in July 2008. That said, you can simply obtain the various update pages to bring an older manual up to date. -Lycoming created the manual in a "loose leaf" design, to allow it to be updated by simply replacing outdated pages or adding new pages, as needed. Jim, -You need Service Instruction 1060J to determine the proper method to det ermine dry tappet clearance and which push rods you will need. I'll send th is document to you, off list. Kelly is correct that you need various Servic e Instruction and Service Bulletin documents, IN ADDITION TO the overhaul m anual. Some of the SIs needed are mentioned in the overhaul manual. Charlie Kuss If you have the roughly 1974 vintage Lycoming overhaul manual it IS the current manual!!! Of course then you have to wade through the 2000 or so service bulletins, letters and instructions that they have issued since to modify said manual. Incredibly, the FAA hasn't made Lycoming do an update incorporating all those service directives in almost 40 years. Jim wrote: Poor ring seating due to glazing has me preparing to re-install the freshly redone top end. I have an older Lycoming engine overhaul manual but the info in it is not specific to my engine. - I am seeking information regarding re-installation of pistons, rings-and cylinders on my O-360-A1A narrow deck engine. I'm hoping someone might be able to send- me the pertinent pages or paragraphs from a Lycoming or-Superior-engine assembly manual. Also I need the information section on how to establish the correct valve clearance by swapping out push rods. A reference to a web page would work fine as well. - - Jim in Kelowna (250) 861-8706 - =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly
"The latest revision was released in July 2008.": Interesting. As of Fall 2001( last time I needed to O/H my engine), the 1974 version 60294-7 -7 was what was on then current official Advantext Lycoming 4 cyl CD. Them lawyers must have got busy to do 5 revisions in the last 7 years. It is about time, although I doubt they have changed much besides adding info for roller cams. Charles Kuss wrote: > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly
Date: May 09, 2009
Jim: All the Superior Engine manuals are on line at: http://www.superiorairparts.com/vantageManuals.asp Do not know how they differ from the Lycoming manuals. I am not sure if the manual tells you how to collapse the lifter using a to othpick. Kind of hard to explain on line. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C220+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA From: jjewell(at)telus.net Subject: RV-List: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly Date: Fri=2C 8 May 2009 16:34:33 -0700 Poor ring seating due to glazing has me preparing to re-install the freshly redone top end. I have an older Lycoming engine overhaul manual but the info in it is not specific to my engine. I am seeking information regarding re-installation of pistons=2C rings and cylinders on my O-360-A1A narrow deck engine. I'm hoping someone might be able to send me the pertinent pages or paragraphs from a Lycoming or Superior engine assembly manual. Also I need the information section on how to establish the correct valve clearance by swapping out push rods. A reference to a web page would work fine as well. Jim in Kelowna (250) 861-8706 _________________________________________________________________ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail=AE. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut orial_QuickAdd1_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2009
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly
Revision 60294-7-9 was released in June 2002. The rest came in the ensuing years. Most changed only a few pages. Charlie --- On Fri, 5/8/09, Kelly McMullen wrote: From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: O-360-A1A cylinder assembly Date: Friday, May 8, 2009, 10:44 PM "The latest revision was released in July 2008.": Interesting. As of Fall 2001( last time I needed to O/H my engine), the 1974 version 60294-7 -7 was what was on then current- official Advantext Lycoming 4 cyl CD. Them lawyers must have got busy to do 5 revisions in the last 7 years. It is about time, although I doubt they have changed much besides adding info for roller cams. Charles Kuss wrote: -- =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: re- glazed cylinder
Date: May 09, 2009
I just received an email asking how I knew that the cylinders on my O- 360 had become glazed. I promptly lost the email in the fog of a too early morning. Send again please. Jim in Kelowna Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (5.0.1.1 - 10.100.128). http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
Fellow Builders, I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder (Commant shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount them to the bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I think this is something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are people's thoughts on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something like 6"x8"? I'd rather not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have the skin end up deformed over time. Thanks in advance. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82882 N998RV Laying Out Carpet in CAD... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-8 Side Consoles
Date: May 09, 2009
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Can anyone refer me to photos of side consoles for an RV-8/A. I remember seeing builders modify the side brackets for more surface area and maybe even a slightly different angle to mount switches, breakers or ??? Any photos would be appreciated. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jerry2DT(at)aol.com
Date: May 09, 2009
Subject: Oregon Mogas & HB3177
Folks, Seems there is a bit of light at the end of the tunnel for Oregon Mogas users. HB3177 proposes to remove Ethanol from 91 octane mogas, if the Guv signs it, that is. The bill is here: _http://www.leg.state.or.us/09reg/measpdf/hb3100.dir/hb3177.intro.pdf_ (http://www.leg.state.or.us/09reg/measpdf/hb3100.dir/hb3177.intro.pdf) Seems boaters, classic car folks, hot rodders, as well as our own efforts have made a diff. So Oregon pilots, please call or email your legislators or Guv Kulongoski and support passage of HB3177 whether you use mogas or not. Thanks, Jerry Cochran **************Remember Mom this Mother's Day! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000006) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
Date: May 09, 2009
I used doublers for both my belly mounted antennae and have 600+ problem free hours. Cracking was my main worry, with the antenna wiggling in the prop slipstream. Also, I'm aware of cracking on antenna mounts on spam cans, so I figured what the heck. I would guess my doublers extend an inch or two beyond the perimeter of the antenna bases, if that helps. I also think I used a skim of proseal between those doublers and the skin. Of course, I'd probably never have seen a crack anyway, but ya never know. Kyle Boatright 2001 RV-6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 1:46 PM Subject: RV-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... > > > Fellow Builders, > > I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder > (Commant shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount > them to the bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I > think this is something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are > people's thoughts on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something > like 6"x8"? I'd rather not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have > the skin end up deformed over time. > > Thanks in advance. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82882 N998RV > Laying Out Carpet in CAD... > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Side Consoles
Hi Robin, I suspect I'm the guilty party. I'll email you photos, off list. Charlie Kuss RV-8A wiring --- On Sat, 5/9/09, Robin Marks wrote: > From: Robin Marks <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> > Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Side Consoles > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, May 9, 2009, 2:07 PM > > > Can anyone refer me to photos of side consoles for an > RV-8/A. I remember > seeing builders modify the side brackets for more surface > area and maybe > even a slightly different angle to mount switches, breakers > or ??? Any > photos would be appreciated. > > Robin > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips...
Dear Listers, I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background. Just thought I'd pass on my efforts. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Button Labeling For Infinity Stick Grips...
Dear Listers, I've been pondering for a while how to "label" the various button functions of the Infinity stick grips I have wired up in the front and back of the RV-8. I spent some time today with the 'ol CAD program making a caricature drawing of the Infinity stick grip and buttons and adding some labeling. My plan is to silk screen the attached layout right to the instrument panel in the front, and to a small metal piece for the back. The cockpit and instrument panel will be black, so the diagram should pop nicely on that background. Just thought I'd pass on my efforts. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 Laying Out Carpet Patterns In CAD... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
Date: May 09, 2009
I put a .032 doubler on my bent whip mounting skin - want pictures? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 1:46 PM Subject: RV-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... > > > Fellow Builders, > > I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder > (Commant shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount > them to the bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I > think this is something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are > people's thoughts on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something > like 6"x8"? I'd rather not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have > the skin end up deformed over time. > > Thanks in advance. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82882 N998RV > Laying Out Carpet in CAD... > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge
Date: May 09, 2009
From: leschampmd(at)aol.com
I am building the wing of an RV-7A and need help on?fastening the outboard leading edge ribs to the main spar. The job is obviously 2-man work, but how how those of you who have built this wing fastened those ribs to the spars? have you managed to use AN470-4 rivets and if so, how did you accomplish this? I ask the question because there is no room for a?double offset cupped set to fit a rivet head. Have you used a special tool or modified the set? Have you used "pop" rived instead of solid ones? If, what rivets? Thanks, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
Of course! Thank you! Post them. Matt Dralle At 07:00 PM 5/9/2009 Saturday, you wrote: > >I put a .032 doubler on my bent whip mounting skin - want pictures? > >----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> >To: ; >Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 1:46 PM >Subject: RV-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... > > >> >> >>Fellow Builders, >> >>I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder (Commant shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount them to the bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I think this is something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are people's thoughts on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something like 6"x8"? I'd rather not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have the skin end up deformed over time. >> >>Thanks in advance. >> >>Matt Dralle >>RV-8 #82882 N998RV >>Laying Out Carpet in CAD... >> >> >> >> > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
Date: May 09, 2009
Matt, I just posted a bunch of pictures IAW the instructions on the main website and copied you..... Hope they help, Ralph Capen RV6A N822AR @ N06 12.1 hours on the 40.......yeeeeehaaaaaw ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 10:24 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... > > Of course! > > Thank you! Post them. > > Matt Dralle > > > At 07:00 PM 5/9/2009 Saturday, you wrote: >> >>I put a .032 doubler on my bent whip mounting skin - want pictures? >> >>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> >>To: ; >>Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 1:46 PM >>Subject: RV-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... >> >> >>> >>> >>>Fellow Builders, >>> >>>I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder >>>(Commant shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount >>>them to the bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. >>>I think this is something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what >>>are people's thoughts on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece >>>something like 6"x8"? I'd rather not, but on the other hand, I don't >>>want to have the skin end up deformed over time. >>> >>>Thanks in advance. >>> >>>Matt Dralle >>>RV-8 #82882 N998RV >>>Laying Out Carpet in CAD... >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
Subject: Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob(at)gmail.com>
While we're on the subject, anyone have a picture of their "V" nav/gs antenna install on the bottom of the fuselage, near the rear of the tailcone? I'm not sure where to mount it and bring the wires in. On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 7:24 PM, Matt Dralle wrote: > > Of course! > > Thank you! Post them. > > Matt Dralle > > > At 07:00 PM 5/9/2009 Saturday, you wrote: > > > >I put a .032 doubler on my bent whip mounting skin - want pictures? > > > >----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> > >To: ; > >Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 1:46 PM > >Subject: RV-List: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin... > > > > > >> > >> > >>Fellow Builders, > >> > >>I'm getting ready to mount the COM (Commant bent whips) and Transponder > (Commant shark fin) antennas on the bottom of the RV-8. I plan to mount > them to the bottom fuselage skin right behind the aileron torque tubes. I > think this is something like .040" skin and its pretty rigid, but what are > people's thoughts on adding a skin doubler, perhaps a .032 piece something > like 6"x8"? I'd rather not, but on the other hand, I don't want to have the > skin end up deformed over time. > >> > >>Thanks in advance. > >> > >>Matt Dralle > >>RV-8 #82882 N998RV > >>Laying Out Carpet in CAD... > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Wings Woodinville, WA (near Seattle) http://kochman.net/N819K ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge
leschampmd(at)aol.com wrote: > I am building the wing of an RV-7A and need help on fastening the > outboard leading edge ribs to the main spar. The job is obviously > 2-man work, but how how those of you who have built this wing fastened > those ribs to the spars? have you managed to use AN470-4 rivets and if > so, how did you accomplish this? I ask the question because there is > no room for a double offset cupped set to fit a rivet head. Have you > used a special tool or modified the set? Have you used "pop" rived > instead of solid ones? If, what rivets? > Thanks, > Bill I had rotten luck with offset sets. It's been a while since I did it, but if I remember correctly, I used a long straight set & warped the rib to the side slightly. The combination made room for the gun. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mounting Antennas On Bottom Fuselage Skin...
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: May 09, 2009
Here is my installation on the RV-10. Doubler on the inside. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=243369#243369 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0718_735.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2009
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Side Consoles
- I decided to concentrate many of the electrical circuits into an enclosed -right side console on my RV-8. -I incorporated-various ideas-from other RV builders and was also-inspired by military aircraft configuratio ns. The result was-a modification that is my personal effort-designed i n part to free up some precious real estate space on the instrument panel b ut I was also interested in cosmetic appeal.-I made the right side consol e-hinged for improved open access.- It contains almost all the circuit breakers and key switch functions such as-boost pump and various light ci rcuits.- The console also includes the ELT remote indicator, intercom and Hobbs meter.- In addition,-I mounted the flap relay deck-and a termi nal board for use with the-pilot and passenger Infinity joystick grips- behind the console using dimpled screw holes through the side skin to attac h the components.-Also hidden from view behind the console-is the MK-11 1 speed controller for the-elevator trim and the relay for the-aileron trim fu nction.- I mounted those components on the gear tower.- I am pleased wi th the way it-all turned out. - [IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/33pdlkn.jpg[/IMG] - - - ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2009
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge
Bill, I found that doing this job per Vans instructions to be pure idiocy! It's impossible for anyone (I'm 6'4" with long arms) to be able to accurately buck the rivets for the ribs in the center. I decided to use a different method. I back riveted these rivets in. I fabricated a special, heavy bucking bar for this. This tool was designed to solve a difficult riveting problem on RV-7, RV-8/A & RV-9A models. On these models, the leading edge assembly is built in a cradle. It is then attached to the wing main spar by riveting the skins and rear flanges of the ribs to the main spar. Setting the 1/8" rivets between the inner L/E ribs and the main spar is extremely difficult to do well. I solved this by fabricating a large "Tim Allen" bucking bar. With this bar, these rivets can be "back riveted" in place. I inserted the rivets from the front (top as viewed in the jig) to the rear of the wing cord. This is opposite of how Van has you set these rivets. I placed the "Tim Allen" bucking bar with the 1/8" universal set on top of the rivet. I then pressed down on the bucking bar. Fellow RV builder Eric Hensen set the shop heads from below (the rear) using the Avery back riveting set (part # 4580) Since making this tool (about half an hour with a band saw and drill press) I've found numerous other areas to use it on my 8A. It is basically a piece of cold rolled steel 2" X 2" X 5" with 3 holes to insert your universal rivet sets in. I placed the holes so that I could move the rivet set around. This makes it easier to use the tool to set the end rivets on the leading edge ribs. I did cut a slight notch in the bar so that it would clear the "flange" around the lightening holes in the ribs. This notch allows me to hold the bar perfectly parallel to the rib web while using it. These 3 holes are there to insert an 1/8" reduced size universal (Avery #1608) squeezer set in. (the ones you use in your Avery squeezer & C tool) The notch is 3/8" deep and 4" long. The 3 holes for the squeezer sets go in the un-notched area. The holes are 3/16" diameter. Make them deep enough to insert the squeezer sets. Locate them so that the edge of the "reduced diameter" 1/8" universal set comes even with the edge(s) of the bar. Make the cut out area 4" long by 3/8" deep at the top end, away from the holes for the set. The 2 holes on the ends are to allow you to reach the rivets on the edges of the leading edge ribs. I wanted a lot of mass, so that the bar would keep the manufactured head tight against the W-809 rib flange during the back riveting process. To reach the 2 innermost ribs, you won't be able to exert a lot of downward force with your arm muscles. The extra weight (it's 3 pounds) really helps. I also found this bar great for riveting the main ribs to the rear spar. I was able to install the manufactured heads against the wing main rib flanges (keeping the manufactured head against the thinner material) rather than against the rear spar. This method has 4 advantages as I see it. #1)This method all but eliminates the chance (near certainty) of "tipping" the shop head of the rivets being set on the inner ribs. Using Van's method, the bucker can not see either the tail of the rivet or the surface of the bucking bar being held against it. He is trying to hold the bucking bar at almost arm's length to set the 2 center ribs. Many early RV-8 builders complained of it being extremely difficult to set these rivets without "tipping" them. #2) Since you back rivet these rivets, the person using the gun can actually watch the shop head being formed. This makes it much easier to get excellent results. #3)This method puts the manufactured head against the leading edge rib flange. This follows Mil-Spec recommendations. Van's method puts the shop head here where it is very hard to see (read impossible) while setting the rivet. #4)Place some duct tape on the web of the main rib while back riveting these rivets. This will prevent any damage if the back rivet set slips. Charlie Kuss --- On Sat, 5/9/09, leschampmd(at)aol.com wrote: > From: leschampmd(at)aol.com <leschampmd(at)aol.com> > Subject: RV-List: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, May 9, 2009, 9:59 PM > I am building the wing of an RV-7A and need help > on?fastening the outboard leading edge ribs to the main > spar. The job is obviously 2-man work, but how how those of > you who have built this wing fastened those ribs to the > spars? have you managed to use AN470-4 rivets and if so, how > did you accomplish this? I ask the question because there is > no room for a?double offset cupped set to fit a rivet head. > Have you used a special tool or modified the set? Have you > used "pop" rived instead of solid ones? If, what > rivets? > Thanks, > Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2009
From: Jerald King <kinje3(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Antenna Mounting
Comant's intallation guide is available online: http://www.comant.com/Uploads/installationpdf/Antenna%20Installation%20Guide.pdf Jerald King RV8 in progess ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Side Consoles
At 11:07 AM 5/9/2009 Saturday, you wrote: > >Can anyone refer me to photos of side consoles for an RV-8/A. I remember >seeing builders modify the side brackets for more surface area and maybe >even a slightly different angle to mount switches, breakers or ??? Any >photos would be appreciated. > >Robin Hi Robin, I didn't "expand" on the surface area available on the right hand console of the RV-8, but I did make pretty good use of what is available. Attached are a few pictures of what I've got. The Vertical Power VP-200 does most of the Switching and Circuit breaker leg work, so I really only needed to add switches for the Emergency Bypass functionality giving me redundant connections to the battery if the VP-200 fails in flight. I also added a kill switch for the Auto Pilot and Rear Grip switches. If you guys haven't checked out the Vertical Power systems, I would highly recommend you give them a look. http://www.verticalpower.com/ Very nice system that greatly simplifies the wiring installation. Exceptionally high quality product and support. A+ Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV Laying Out Carpet in CAD... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jim Gray <n747jg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-8 Side Consoles
Date: May 11, 2009
Robin, I have lots of pictures of side consoles in my RV-8 (and a few opinions on what should go where, ha). After 75 hours of flight time, I have no complaints at all about placement, maintainability, or operation of any of the switches, etc. If you would like more pictures of construction, or information, let me know. Jim Gray n747jg(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge
Date: May 11, 2009
From: leschampmd(at)aol.com
Karl Ahamer - thanks for your suggestion to secure the leading edge on the RV-& wing. It certainly sounds much easier than Vans's method. Another question - did you use platenuts and #6 screws on each of the 5 holes, rib to spar? Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Karl Ahamer" <kahamer(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: RE: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge
Date: May 12, 2009
Hi Bill, Can't remember if I used them on all 5 holes,but some might be doable with rivets... I thought there are only 3 rivets per rib to main spar,but its been a few years now. Karl _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of leschampmd(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, 12 May 2009 6:03 AM Subject: RV-List: RE: Securing an RV-7 outboard leading edge Karl Ahamer - thanks for your suggestion to secure the leading edge on the RV-& wing. It certainly sounds much easier than Vans's method. Another question - did you use platenuts and #6 screws on each of the 5 holes, rib to spar? Bill _____ We found the real 'Hotel California' and the 'Seinfeld' diner. What will you find? Explore <http://www.whereitsat.com/?ncid=emlwenew00000001> WhereItsAt.com. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 07:02:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Jones" <kmjone2(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Wonky Ammeter Redux
Date: May 11, 2009
Hello Folks, I have a problem that is very similar to the Aeroelectric Connection issue of the same subject from 2001. I've got a Vans -40,0+40 ammeter (load meter) connected to a 40mV shunt wired exactly (minus the fuselinks) as Figure Z-13 in the Connection. I also have a 10mV shunt wired to read the aux SD-8 alternator loads. The signal wires from the two shunts are controlled by a switch on the panel. Main is wired to show negative, aux is positive ammeter deflection. The following is my scenario: 1. Ground operation with engine off; power supplied to main alternator feed through a radio shack 13.8V 3A supply. 2. Ammeter power is on the E-Bus, with alternate feed switch off. 3. Power supply is providing ~3A and I measure 3.8mV across the shunt. Shunt voltage to ground is 13.08V. 4. Instrument reads ~3.5mV at the sense wire connections 5. Instrument power voltage is ~12.2 volts 6. Ammeter shows full-scale discharge (negative). If I turn power supply off, this doesn't change??? If I switch on the E-Bus alternate feed, the ammeter returns to zero. Instrument voltage increases to 12.6V. If I power the alternate alternator feed, ammeter shows slight positive deflection, but nothing near the 35% deflection expected. How robust are the Vans ammeters and should I invest in a new one or re-wire the system? Why would opening the E-Bus alternate path cause a change in ammeter reading? Many thanks. KJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: UV Smooth Prime
Date: May 12, 2009
I have an un-opened quart of UV Smooth Prime with cross link and syringe, if anyone would like this let me know. I'd like $30 for the kit plus shipping and I'll through in the remaining can and cross link that should have 1/4 left. Marty in Brentwood TN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2009
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: UV Smooth Prime
Is it fairly new? I had a can that went bad. I would be interested and could fly to an airport to pick it up. I'm out of town and won't be back till this weekend. ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Check out the latest on my website at: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009JanJulyFlying.htm Emrath wrote: > > I have an un-opened quart of UV Smooth Prime with cross link and syringe, > if anyone would like this let me know. I'd like $30 for the kit plus > shipping and I'll through in the remaining can and cross link that should > have 1/4 left. > > Marty in Brentwood TN > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: UV Smooth Prime
Date: May 13, 2009
Thanks to all who responded, the UV Smooth Prime has been sold. Marty in Brentwood TN From: "Emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV-List: UV Smooth Prime I have an un-opened quart of UV Smooth Prime with cross link and syringe, if anyone would like this let me know. I'd like $30 for the kit plus shipping and I'll through in the remaining can and cross link that should have 1/4 left. Marty in Brentwood TN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jef Vervoort" <jef.vervoortw(at)telenet.be>
Subject: Fuel injection servo & IO320
Date: May 14, 2009
Hi, I'm puzzling with the mounting of the Silver Hawk EX-5VA1 on my Lycoming XIO-320-D1A with vertical induction. How is the servo to be mounted: the throttle lever/arm on the left ( P1) side or the other way around? The fuel inlet has been prepared by the company on the same side as the throttle arm. And how to route the fuel lines? Vans instructions on installing the FAB explains under "VA-131Q-1 installation" that the box should be adapted ( cut away a part); the photo shows the mixture arm on the left side, I think. Could someone, who has been there, enlighten me please. Jef Vervoort, 91031. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wonky Ammeter Redux
Date: May 14, 2009
From: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com>
Kevin, I'm confused about how you've got the ammeter wired to read both alternators, especially your comment that one is wired to show pos, the other neg. If you could provide a diagram of the shunts, switch, and ammeter, it would help (me at least). My suspicion is that this is where the problem may lie. Dennis Glaeser -------------------------------------------------- From: Kevin Jones Hello Folks, I have a problem that is very similar to the Aeroelectric Connection issue of the same subject from 2001. I've got a Vans -40,0+40 ammeter (load meter) connected to a 40mV shunt wired exactly (minus the fuselinks) as Figure Z-13 in the Connection. I also have a 10mV shunt wired to read the aux SD-8 alternator loads. The signal wires from the two shunts are controlled by a switch on the panel. Main is wired to show negative, aux is positive ammeter deflection. The following is my scenario: 1. Ground operation with engine off; power supplied to main alternator feed through a radio shack 13.8V 3A supply. 2. Ammeter power is on the E-Bus, with alternate feed switch off. 3. Power supply is providing ~3A and I measure 3.8mV across the shunt. Shunt voltage to ground is 13.08V. 4. Instrument reads ~3.5mV at the sense wire connections 5. Instrument power voltage is ~12.2 volts 6. Ammeter shows full-scale discharge (negative). If I turn power supply off, this doesn't change??? If I switch on the E-Bus alternate feed, the ammeter returns to zero. Instrument voltage increases to 12.6V. If I power the alternate alternator feed, ammeter shows slight positive deflection, but nothing near the 35% deflection expected. How robust are the Vans ammeters and should I invest in a new one or re-wire the system? Why would opening the E-Bus alternate path cause a change in ammeter reading? Many thanks. KJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Jones" <kmjone2(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wonky Ammeter Redux
Date: May 15, 2009
Hello Dennis, Each shunt is connected to a double pole (2-5) switch (see attached). I select the source for the display to read only one at a time. I swapped the leads across one (main alternator) of the shunts to get it to read negative. I'll stick '5' and '10' numbers on the face of the ammeter for the aux alternator indicatioin. I'll check that the output equals the voltage drop across each shunt, but it should be pretty straight forward. Your thoughts? KJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser(at)eds.com> Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 1:49 PM Subject: RV-List: Re: Wonky Ammeter Redux > > > Kevin, > > I'm confused about how you've got the ammeter wired to read both > alternators, especially your comment that one is wired to show pos, the > other neg. If you could provide a diagram of the shunts, switch, and > ammeter, it would help (me at least). My suspicion is that this is > where the problem may lie. > > Dennis Glaeser > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: Kevin Jones > Hello Folks, > > I have a problem that is very similar to the Aeroelectric Connection > issue of the same subject from 2001. I've got a Vans -40,0+40 ammeter > (load meter) connected to a 40mV shunt wired exactly (minus the > fuselinks) as Figure Z-13 in the Connection. I also have a 10mV shunt > wired to read the aux SD-8 alternator loads. The signal wires from the > two shunts are controlled by a switch on the panel. Main is wired to > show negative, aux is positive ammeter deflection. The following is my > scenario: > > 1. Ground operation with engine off; power supplied to main alternator > feed through a radio shack 13.8V 3A supply. > 2. Ammeter power is on the E-Bus, with alternate feed switch off. > 3. Power supply is providing ~3A and I measure 3.8mV across the shunt. > Shunt voltage to ground is 13.08V. > 4. Instrument reads ~3.5mV at the sense wire connections > 5. Instrument power voltage is ~12.2 volts > 6. Ammeter shows full-scale discharge (negative). If I turn power > supply off, this doesn't change??? > > If I switch on the E-Bus alternate feed, the ammeter returns to zero. > Instrument voltage increases to 12.6V. > > If I power the alternate alternator feed, ammeter shows slight positive > deflection, but nothing near the 35% deflection expected. > > How robust are the Vans ammeters and should I invest in a new one or > re-wire the system? Why would opening the E-Bus alternate path cause a > change in ammeter reading? > > Many thanks. > > KJ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6(at)att.net>
Subject: Flight Bag Tag, Hat Badge, and Key Ring
Date: May 16, 2009
Here is an image of a badge set I lasered in blue/white which is a great combination. The middle badge has a hat pin on the back for attaching to your favorite flying cap. Great for fly-ins. If interested in a set for your RV, email legacylaser(at)att.net for information sheet. Thanks, Jerry Calvert RV-6 N296JC ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: MX11 PIN-OUT or NARCO COM11 PIN-OUT or an EXTRACT FROM
THE INSTALL MANUAL
Date: May 16, 2009
Dear Listers, I'm needing the above subject info to scout-out the reason my MX11 VHF cannot be heard loud and clear. It's the same radio as the Narco Com11 so they say. The radio transmissions are received "loud and clear". The intercom is crystal clear front and back seats. Radio checks reveal "you're loud and clear" but they sound like they are coming through a mile long pipe .... clear but very weak. The Avionics Place at Rockford airport is getting good response on their bench with their test equipment for both xmit/receive. The problem is in the aircraft wiring somewhere. Any ideas, hunches, experiences that solved such a problem? Can anyone email an extract of the install manual? My thanks to all on this List, Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall?
What's the common notion on carpeting the cabin side of the firewall? I often see aluminium foil backed insulation on the backside of firewalls, but I'm not sure I've seen carpet. Cars have it, but what about aircraft? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV Still Laying Out Carpet In CAD... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A. J. Mendes Pereira" <mendper(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: MX11 PIN-OUT or NARCO COM11 PIN-OUT or an EXTRACT FROM
THE INSTALL MANUAL
Date: May 17, 2009
Here's the 11's pin-out; 'hope it helps... Take care AJ ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Grimmonpre To: RV-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 1:19 AM Subject: RV-List: MX11 PIN-OUT or NARCO COM11 PIN-OUT or an EXTRACT FROM THE INSTALL MANUAL Dear Listers, I'm needing the above subject info to scout-out the reason my MX11 VHF cannot be heard loud and clear. It's the same radio as the Narco Com11 so they say. The radio transmissions are received "loud and clear". The intercom is crystal clear front and back seats. Radio checks reveal "you're loud and clear" but they sound like they are coming through a mile long pipe .... clear but very weak. The Avionics Place at Rockford airport is getting good response on their bench with their test equipment for both xmit/receive. The problem is in the aircraft wiring somewhere. Any ideas, hunches, experiences that solved such a problem? Can anyone email an extract of the install manual? My thanks to all on this List, Jerry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall?
Date: May 17, 2009
I make carpet for a living (OK, I'm an engineer for the world's largest carpet manufacturer)... I don't think carpet is suitable for that application. There is the potential for too much heat, too close. Carpet isn't designed for the temperatures you would get on the cockpit side of a firewall where there is a fire on the other side. Besides, carpet is heavy. If you're looking for insulation against noise and heat, you'll do better with a purpose designed product. Just my $0.02. Kyle Boatright ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 11:44 PM Subject: RV-List: Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall? > > > What's the common notion on carpeting the cabin side of the firewall? I > often see aluminium foil backed insulation on the backside of firewalls, > but I'm not sure I've seen carpet. Cars have it, but what about aircraft? > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > Still Laying Out Carpet In CAD... > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Subject: Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall?
Date: May 17, 2009
A number of certified aircraft use an insulated blanket on the firewall. They have to contend with the flammability requirements for firewall materials. The burn specs for material in contact with the firewall is different than materials used on sidewalls and seats. It's not super stringent, just a step up. Of course we don't technically have to follow that but it's something to consider when choosing the material, whether insulation or carpet. I'm sure there's wool carpeting out there that meets the firewall spec. That said, the challenge would be getting around all the firewall penetrations and structure. I think a lot of folks use the aluminum backed insulation to piece it together and secure it with aluminum tape. With carpet, you'd want it removable in the event of a brake fluid leak or such. If you're up to it there's no reason not to. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle > Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:44 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Carpeting The Cabin Side of Firewall? > > > > What's the common notion on carpeting the cabin side of the > firewall? I often see aluminium foil backed insulation on > the backside of firewalls, but I'm not sure I've seen carpet. > Cars have it, but what about aircraft? > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > Still Laying Out Carpet In CAD... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Who Flew Over KU
Date: May 17, 2009
From: fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com
I was at my daughter's graduation in the staduim at the University of Kansas today and 3 RVs with smoke did a formation fly over. I would like to say thank you ! I just really added to a perfect day. Dane Sheahen N838RV RV8a fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: firewall insulation
Date: May 18, 2009
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
> What's the common notion on carpeting the cabin side of the firewall? I > often see aluminium foil backed insulation on the backside of firewalls, > but I'm not sure I've seen carpet. Cars have it, but what about aircraft? > > Matt I wouldn't use carpet. Too heavy and susceptible to serious moisture problems if it gets wet, mold, mildew, and ridiculous weight gain. And it isn't meant to be a fire protection at all. We are using a closed cell, self adhesive, black foam that meets FAR burn specs on the cabin side of the firewall. It's not on the web store yet, but will soon be. We also have a non-fire rated, but otherwise similar foam on the store right now. Install and seal the edges with RTV (just in case the adhesive weakens) and you've got a nice tidy installation. On the forward side of the firewall we use a ceramic fabric, foil faced, also self adhesive that looks great and is very user friendly and inexpensive. It's rated for 1100 deg (foil) but the ceramic will take much more. Of course, you need to seal down the edges with silicone RTV, Proseal, foil tape, etc. While no one can claim complete fire resistance for any material, this stuff will go a LOOOONG way towards keeping your feet cool under normal ops, and give extra time if you do have a fire. Thanks, Vince Frazier www.flyboyaccessories.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2009
From: dan(at)rdan.com
Subject: RV8 QB kit for sale
I am selling my kit it is an 8 I have 255 hours into it constructed up to the brake lines, Good workmanship and logs asking $24,000 possible trade located in Seattle area Dan 425-754-0112 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: Removing White Vinyl Protective Material - Done!
Date: May 19, 2009
Guys, I've finally got all of the white vinyl removed! Here is a technique that helped a lot. From my local hardware store I bought a roll of foil tape with a very sticky adhesive. It's called Intertape #698. It looks like a roll of duct tape but is foil based. I did a quick wipe of the white vinyl using MEK to remove any oil. A strip of this tape was firmly pressed over the vinyl. The end of the tape is VERY slowly pulled away in a perpendicular direction from the vinyl. You will need a new single-edge razor blade to get the vinyl started to separate from the aluminum to remain attached to the foil tape. (Round the corners of the blade to reduce scratching.) Take a heat gun and apply a little heat to the skin, vinyl, and foil. You will find the vinyl adhesive will begin to lose some of its adhesion to the aluminum. You may have to occasionally use the razor to lift a section of vinyl that broke free of the foil. I was able to remove vinyl from 4 wings bays in about 90 minutes. The only purpose of the foil is to strengthen and keep the brittle vinyl in one piece while using the heat gun to soften the old vinyl adhesive. Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New line of DVDs for RVs
From: "BuckWynd" <buckwynd(at)aol.com>
Date: May 19, 2009
Just thought everyone would like to know about our new series of DVDs for RV builders and those who are just getting started. The first title is, appropriately enough, "RV Builder Basics: Getting Started." It's hosted by Les Bourne, whose RV-8 has won numerous awards at Oshkosh and Sun-n-Fun. More information at . Thanks! Buck Wyndham RV-8 N18XL (project) Northern Illinois Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244743#244743 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: May 20, 2009
Subject: Re: Mineral Bottom Int'l
Just out of curiosity, is anyone aware of any RVator having landed at the Private Strip known as Mineral Canyon, UT? N1GV (RV-6A Flying 920TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) **************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell =99s full line of laptops. =http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434 3%3Bf) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net>
Subject: Mineral Bottom Int'l
Date: May 20, 2009
I=99ve been there with my C185. The surface was very soft, and I would be afraid of the little RV tires sinking in. John From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vanremog(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 11:39 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Mineral Bottom Int'l Just out of curiosity, is anyone aware of any RVator having landed at the Private Strip known as Mineral Canyon, UT? N1GV (RV-6A Flying 920TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) _____ Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dell's full line of laptops. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ron Lee" <ronlee(at)pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: Mineral Bottom Int'l
Date: May 20, 2009
Several months ago I made some low passes over it. Too wet to make a T&G. The canyon north of it is great is to fly through. About 20 minutes worth, Useful info here: http://tinyurl.com/qqubn4 Ron Lee Just out of curiosity, is anyone aware of any RVator having landed at the Private Strip known as Mineral Canyon, UT? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Adjusting spark plug gap
I have the tool to measure the gaps and make the gap smaller - what are you using to make the gap bigger? I don't want to risk damaging the center electrode or ceeramic. I have some new plugs - fresh out of the box....their gaps are not consistent - some as low .015 and some as high as .025. I want to make them all the same..... The plugs are UREM37BY and the outer electrodes go up then in (holding the plug in your hand with the working end up - kinda like car plugs), as opposed to in then up (which I've seen in pictures - not on my plane). Thanks, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Adjusting spark plug gap
Date: May 21, 2009
I use a pair of small needlenose pliers with a 90 degree bend in them, very carefully. I use the regular tools for bending them in, since the danger to ceramic is greater. Am looking forward to getting some better ideas from the list! DW On May 21, 2009, at 6:16 , Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > > I have the tool to measure the gaps and make the gap smaller - what > are you using to make the gap bigger? I don't want to risk damaging > the center electrode or ceeramic. > > I have some new plugs - fresh out of the box....their gaps are not > consistent - some as low .015 and some as high as .025. I want to > make them all the same..... > > The plugs are UREM37BY and the outer electrodes go up then in > (holding the plug in your hand with the working end up - kinda like > car plugs), as opposed to in then up (which I've seen in pictures - > not on my plane). > > Thanks, > Ralph > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Adjusting spark plug gap
Leave the small gap where it is. It will erode to .016-.018 very shortly. Reduce the gap on the others to the specified .016-.018 range. Trying to bend for increased gap is asking for trouble. KM A&P/IA Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > I have the tool to measure the gaps and make the gap smaller - what are you using to make the gap bigger? I don't want to risk damaging the center electrode or ceeramic. > > I have some new plugs - fresh out of the box....their gaps are not consistent - some as low .015 and some as high as .025. I want to make them all the same..... > > The plugs are UREM37BY and the outer electrodes go up then in (holding the plug in your hand with the working end up - kinda like car plugs), as opposed to in then up (which I've seen in pictures - not on my plane). > > Thanks, > Ralph > > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Adjusting spark plug gap
Thanks Denis, I have a tool that I used on my car spark plugs - but haven't found the same thing for these Massive Electrode units. http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdfeel02.html are the car ones and they work fine for automotive plugs but the openings to adjust the gap outward are not big enough for aviation plug side electrodes. I'll check with my local A&P...... The search continues -----Original Message----- >From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> >Sent: May 21, 2009 8:56 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting spark plug gap > > >I use a pair of small needlenose pliers with a 90 degree bend in them, >very carefully. I use the regular tools for bending them in, since >the danger to ceramic is greater. > >Am looking forward to getting some better ideas from the list! > >DW >On May 21, 2009, at 6:16 , Ralph E. Capen wrote: > >> >> >> I have the tool to measure the gaps and make the gap smaller - what >> are you using to make the gap bigger? I don't want to risk damaging >> the center electrode or ceeramic. >> >> I have some new plugs - fresh out of the box....their gaps are not >> consistent - some as low .015 and some as high as .025. I want to >> make them all the same..... >> >> The plugs are UREM37BY and the outer electrodes go up then in >> (holding the plug in your hand with the working end up - kinda like >> car plugs), as opposed to in then up (which I've seen in pictures - >> not on my plane). >> >> Thanks, >> Ralph >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Adjusting spark plug gap
Kelly, I thought that there was the potential for messing something up - hence the question. I'm guessing that as long as the plug has some gap (they all did) to fire, the engine will run..... Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> >Sent: May 21, 2009 9:35 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting spark plug gap > > >Leave the small gap where it is. It will erode to .016-.018 very >shortly. Reduce the gap on the others to the specified .016-.018 range. >Trying to bend for increased gap is asking for trouble. >KM >A&P/IA > >Ralph E. Capen wrote: >> >> I have the tool to measure the gaps and make the gap smaller - what are you using to make the gap bigger? I don't want to risk damaging the center electrode or ceeramic. >> >> I have some new plugs - fresh out of the box....their gaps are not consistent - some as low .015 and some as high as .025. I want to make them all the same..... >> >> The plugs are UREM37BY and the outer electrodes go up then in (holding the plug in your hand with the working end up - kinda like car plugs), as opposed to in then up (which I've seen in pictures - not on my plane). >> >> Thanks, >> Ralph >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >-- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Adjusting spark plug gap
Correct, and your tightest gap is only .001 less than specified. Leave well enough alone and just deal with the plug(s) that are out of spec too wide. Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Kelly, > > I thought that there was the potential for messing something up - hence the question. > > I'm guessing that as long as the plug has some gap (they all did) to fire, the engine will run..... > > Ralph > > -----Original Message----- > >> From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> >> Sent: May 21, 2009 9:35 AM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Adjusting spark plug gap >> >> >> Leave the small gap where it is. It will erode to .016-.018 very >> shortly. Reduce the gap on the others to the specified .016-.018 range. >> Trying to bend for increased gap is asking for trouble. >> KM >> A&P/IA >> >> Ralph E. Capen wrote: >> >>> >>> I have the tool to measure the gaps and make the gap smaller - what are you using to make the gap bigger? I don't want to risk damaging the center electrode or ceeramic. >>> >>> I have some new plugs - fresh out of the box....their gaps are not consistent - some as low .015 and some as high as .025. I want to make them all the same..... >>> >>> The plugs are UREM37BY and the outer electrodes go up then in (holding the plug in your hand with the working end up - kinda like car plugs), as opposed to in then up (which I've seen in pictures - not on my plane). >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Ralph >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> -- >> >> >> >> >> > > > -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: david cook <davercook1501(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Leaking Tank How To
Hi All I want to help a friend with his leaking tank, I know about the green Loctite. My question is how to create the vacuum with out blowing us up. Any Magiver solutions out there. I'm a little concerned with using the vacuum cleaner. Its on a 9A and don't relish removing the tank. Thanks David R. Cook N815DC RV-6 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
First off, you don't need much vacuum, if at all. The green Loctite will wick into the hole on it's own. Second ..... well, if there's a good amount of airflow ..... don't seal up the hose in the filler neck at all ..... there will not be sufficient air/fuel ratio to ignite ..... which is where I think the 'blowing us up' comes from. But, if you're not comfortable doing the vacuum cleaner thingy ..... just don't. Safety should be your first consideration. I think collapsing the tank would be more concern than blowing it up! You could probably suck a little vacuum on the tank by attaching one of the vacuum brake bleeders to the tank vent line. Linn david cook wrote: > Hi All > I want to help a friend with his leaking tank, I know about the green > Loctite. My question is how to create the vacuum with out blowing us up. > Any Magiver solutions out there. I'm a little concerned with using the > vacuum cleaner. Its on a 9A and don't relish removing the tank. > Thanks > > David R. Cook > N815DC RV-6 > Flying > > > * > > > * > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
Date: May 21, 2009
From: lenleg(at)aol.com
Tell me about the Green Loctite ... automotive stores?? I have a small leak I would like to fix. Len -----Original Message----- From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Thu, 21 May 2009 12:12 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking Tank How To ? First off, you don't need much vacuum, if at all. The green Loctite will wick into the hole on it's own.? ? Second ..... well, if there's a good amount of airflow ..... don't seal up the hose in the filler neck at all ..... there will not be sufficient air/fuel ratio to ignite ..... which is where I think the 'blowing us up' comes from. But, if you're not comfortable doing the vacuum cleaner thingy ..... just don't. Safety should be your first consideration. I think collapsing the tank would be more concern than blowing it up!? ? You could probably suck a little vacuum on the tank by attaching one of the vacuum brake bleeders to the tank vent line.? ? Linn? ? david cook wrote:? > Hi All? > I want to help a friend with his leaking tank, I know about the green > Loctite. My question is how to create the vacuum with out blowing us up. > Any Magiver solutions out there. I'm a little concerned with using the > vacuum cleaner. Its on a 9A and don't relish removing the tank.? > Thanks? > > David R. Cook? > N815DC RV-6? > Flying? > > > *? > > > *? > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------? > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ? ? ? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: david cook <davercook1501(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
Yes I found it at NAPA David R. Cook N815DC RV-6 Flying ________________________________ From: "lenleg(at)aol.com" <lenleg(at)aol.com> Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 12:49:09 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking Tank How To Tell me about the Green Loctite ... automotive stores? I have a small leak I would like to fix. Len -----Original Message----- From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Thu, 21 May 2009 12:12 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking Tank How To First off, you don't need much vacuum, if at all. The green Loctite will wick into the hole on it's own. Second ..... well, if there's a good amount of airflow ..... don't seal up the hose in the filler neck at all ..... there will not be sufficient air/fuel ratio to ignite ..... which is where I think the 'blowing us up' comes from. But, if you're not comfortable doing the vacuum cleaner thingy ..... just don't. Safety should be your first consideration. I think collapsing the tank would be more concern than blowing it up! You could probably suck a little vacuum on the tank by attaching one of the vacuum brake bleeders to the tank vent line. Linn david cook wrote: > Hi All > I want to help a friend with his leaking tank, I know about the green > Loctite. My question is how to create the vacuum with out blowing us up. > Any Magiver solutions out there. I'm a little concerned with using the > vacuum cleaner. Its on a 9A and don't relish removing the tank. > Thanks > > David R. Cook > N815DC RV-6 > Flying > > > * > > > * > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
Hi Len, Lots of sources: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=green+loctite+609&aq=1&oq=green+loct&aqi=g4 Charlie lenleg(at)aol.com wrote: > Tell me about the Green Loctite ... automotive stores? I have a small > leak I would like to fix. > > Len > > > -----Original Message----- > From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thu, 21 May 2009 12:12 pm > Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking Tank How To > > > > > First off, you don't need much vacuum, if at all. The green Loctite > will wick into the hole on it's own. > > Second ..... well, if there's a good amount of airflow ..... don't > seal up the hose in the filler neck at all ..... there will not be > sufficient air/fuel ratio to ignite ..... which is where I think the > 'blowing us up' comes from. But, if you're not comfortable doing the > vacuum cleaner thingy ..... just don't. Safety should be your first > consideration. I think collapsing the tank would be more concern than > blowing it up! > > You could probably suck a little vacuum on the tank by attaching one > of the vacuum brake bleeders to the tank vent line. > > Linn > > david cook wrote: > > Hi All > > I want to help a friend with his leaking tank, I know about the > green > Loctite. My question is how to create the vacuum with out > blowing us up. > Any Magiver solutions out there. I'm a little > concerned with using the > vacuum cleaner. Its on a 9A and don't > relish removing the tank. > > Thanks > > > David R. Cook > > N815DC RV-6 > > Flying > > > > * > > > > * > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/> > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vincent Himsl <vshimsl(at)live.com>
Subject: Leaking Tank How To
Date: May 21, 2009
Hello=2C DO NOT use an electric vacuum cleaner. Use a modified nozzle and compressed air to generate a safe vacuum. BUT! I repaired my tanks without generating a vacuum at all... First=2C you can bypass removing the tanks only if you are absolutely sure =2C as in can see=2C that there are no leaks on the rear baffle. I removed mine but found none. Having said that=2C the leak(s) you are encountering are most likely around a rivet attaching the rear baffle=2C either along the top or along the bot tom of the tank. I had three on top of one tank=2C and one on the bottom of the other. All w ere repaired using Loctite Thread Blocker Green. To be precise my leaks too k over night to become visible and were around rivets attaching the rear ta nk baffle. The largest blue stain ring was about 1" diameter . Both tanks h ad passed the air/bubble test during construction. (Note to current builder s: use fuel to test your tanks). The leaks on top are relatively easy. Raise the airplane and/or remove or p referably fly off enough fuel so that gas isn't pushing out. Now place a dr op of Threadblocker Green (TG) on the rivet. Wearing a plastic glove simply press down on the bubble. Repeat this process several times. Finish up by putting a drop(s) on the leaking rivet and letting it sit overnight. TG onl y solidifies in the abscence of oxygen so you can easily wipe off the resid ue the next day. If the leak(s) are on the bottom you must drain the tank to remove the pres sure from the fuel pushing out and then use the procedure above. The idea is that pressure (and capillary action) from outside is just as ef fective=2C and much easier to apply=2C than vacuum from within. I repaired my leaks several weeks ago and inspecting the tanks daily=2C the leaks haven't returned. The rear tank baffle is problematic for first time builders as the directio ns say you need enough pro-seal to prevent leaks but not so much that you a lter the shape. I believe TG is the first step (going from simplest to painful) recommended by Van's Aircraft (check archives). The next is proseal outside=2C and then=2C brace yourself=2C removing the tanks=2C cutting acce ss holes in the baffle and then applying proseal from within. May the Threadblocker Green be with you! Regards=2C Vince H. RV-8 N8432 "Final Inspection June 6th!" Date: Thu=2C 21 May 2009 08:41:25 -0700 From: davercook1501(at)yahoo.com Subject: RV-List: Leaking Tank How To Hi All I want to help a friend with his leaking tank=2C I know about the green Loc tite. My question is how to create the vacuum with out blowing us up. Any M agiver solutions out there. I'm a little concerned with using the vacuum cl eaner. Its on a 9A and don't relish removing the tank. Thanks David R. Cook N815DC RV-6 Flying _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail=AE has a new way to see what's up with your friends. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tut orial_WhatsNew1_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Green Loctite per Charlie England
At 02:59 PM 5/21/2009, you wrote: > >Hi Len, > >Lots of sources: >http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=green+loctite+609&aq=1&oq=green+loct&aqi=g4 > >Charlie Charlie, When I Googled "green Loctite" I came up with Loctite 290 as well as Loctite 609. Soooo...which is the one we are talking about using to fix fuel tank leaks? Louis I Willig 1640 Oakwood Dr. Penn Valley, PA 19072 610 668-4964 RV-4, N180PF 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
lenleg(at)aol.com wrote: > Tell me about the Green Loctite ... automotive stores? Yup! If your favorite doesn't carry it .... look at other auto parts places. Linn I have a small > leak I would like to fix. > > Len > > > -----Original Message----- > From: linn <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thu, 21 May 2009 12:12 pm > Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaking Tank How To > > > > > First off, you don't need much vacuum, if at all. The green Loctite will > wick into the hole on it's own. > > Second ..... well, if there's a good amount of airflow ..... don't seal > up the hose in the filler neck at all ..... there will not be sufficient > air/fuel ratio to ignite ..... which is where I think the 'blowing us > up' comes from. But, if you're not comfortable doing the vacuum cleaner > thingy ..... just don't. Safety should be your first consideration. I > think collapsing the tank would be more concern than blowing it up! > > You could probably suck a little vacuum on the tank by attaching one of > the vacuum brake bleeders to the tank vent line. > > Linn > > david cook wrote: > > Hi All > > I want to help a friend with his leaking tank, I know about the green > > Loctite. My question is how to create the vacuum with out blowing us > up. > Any Magiver solutions out there. I'm a little concerned with using > the > vacuum cleaner. Its on a 9A and don't relish removing the tank. > > Thanks > > > David R. Cook > > N815DC RV-6 > > Flying > > > > * > > > > * > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/> > > > > > * > > > * > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Green Loctite per Charlie England
Oops! I should know better than to do this stuff in a hurry. I suspect my 1st link was in error. Try googling 'loctite wicking grade'. Here's the link to the 609 formula datasheet (wrong?): http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/609-EN.PDF and the 290: http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/290-EN.PDF 294 is a hi temp version, but the data sheet says it's not recommended for 'blind holes': http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/290-EN.PDF Charlie Louis Willig wrote: > > At 02:59 PM 5/21/2009, you wrote: >> >> Hi Len, >> >> Lots of sources: >> http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=green+loctite+609&aq=1&oq=green+loct&aqi=g4 >> >> >> Charlie > > Charlie, > When I Googled "green Loctite" I came up with Loctite 290 as well as > Loctite 609. Soooo...which is the one we are talking about using to > fix fuel tank leaks? > > > Louis I Willig > 1640 Oakwood Dr. > Penn Valley, PA 19072 > 610 668-4964 > RV-4, N180PF > 190HP IO-360, C/S prop ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Jack's Final Flight
Date: May 21, 2009
My friend Jack Starn, many of you knew him as KABONG, has passed away. He has been sick for a long time and his heart just gave up. He hasn't added his witty comments to the lists for the last several years but the old timers will remember his emails. For the new guys/gals on the list, Jack moved next door to me right after I got the tail kit for the RV-4. It quickly turned into a Harmon Rocket II, and Jack held the bucking bar for all 16,000 rivets (plus or minus a few). During the five years of building Jack got cancer and had to have his vocal cords removed and talked with a buzzer held against his neck. We had a few good years but he got sick again. They couldn't find out why he lost 85 pounds and just got weaker and weaker. Anyway, the email I sent to my EAA chapter is below. For you all who might remember Jack-KABONG, please sent a short note, you know just a line or two with a personal comment, and I will copy them to a letter I will give the family. The memorial sevice will be May 30th at 10:00 AM. Some RV guys/gals are attempting to set up a missing man fly-by to start the service. After the service, we will take him for his last plane ride. Tom "GummiBear" Gummo Harmon Rocket II N-561FS 350 hours Major USAF Retired, F-4G Instuctor Pilot http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html ************************************************************************* ***** Everybody, Jack took his final flight this morning, May 19, 2009 Last night, my wife cooked and we took the food up to the Starn's and had a nice evening with them. Jack was up walking around and we had a long talk about the Chino Air Show. He looked a lot better than his current normal. This morning I got a call and was told I had to come right away. When I arrived, he was with three football coaches from the school where he was "The Voice of the Ravens." He was unable to talk or raise his head and his breathing was labored. The hospice nurse said that he could hear us. The coaches prayed with him, sang a couple of songs and ended with a Raven cheer. I walked outside to call my folks who knew Jack and to cancel my trip to visit them this weekend. When his nephew came out and said it was all over. He was surround by family and friends. A couple hours later, the folks came to pick him up and we gathered on the front lawn to say Good-bye as they loaded him into the truck. The Air Force decided to say "Thank you for your service" and a plane from Edwards AFB broke the sound barrier overhead. So Jack was loaded with a sonic boom. As I get the details for his memorial service, I will send them to you. Please keep your thoughts and prayers for his family, Tom, Proud to say he was my friend. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com>
Subject: Jack's Final Flight
Date: May 21, 2009
Tom, Count me as one who remembers KABONG from the list. It's great the way shared interests and modern technology expose us to wonderful people we would otherwise have never known. Thank you for being his friend, and for letting us know that he left. I'm sure he would have appreciated that. Terry From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gummo Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 4:31 PM Subject: RV-List: Jack's Final Flight My friend Jack Starn, many of you knew him as KABONG, has passed away. He has been sick for a long time and his heart just gave up. He hasn't added his witty comments to the lists for the last several years but the old timers will remember his emails. For the new guys/gals on the list, Jack moved next door to me right after I got the tail kit for the RV-4. It quickly turned into a Harmon Rocket II, and Jack held the bucking bar for all 16,000 rivets (plus or minus a few). During the five years of building Jack got cancer and had to have his vocal cords removed and talked with a buzzer held against his neck. We had a few good years but he got sick again. They couldn't find out why he lost 85 pounds and just got weaker and weaker. Anyway, the email I sent to my EAA chapter is below. For you all who might remember Jack-KABONG, please sent a short note, you know just a line or two with a personal comment, and I will copy them to a letter I will give the family. The memorial sevice will be May 30th at 10:00 AM. Some RV guys/gals are attempting to set up a missing man fly-by to start the service. After the service, we will take him for his last plane ride. Tom "GummiBear" Gummo Harmon Rocket II N-561FS 350 hours Major USAF Retired, F-4G Instuctor Pilot http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html **************************************************************************** ** Everybody, Jack took his final flight this morning, May 19, 2009 Last night, my wife cooked and we took the food up to the Starn's and had a nice evening with them. Jack was up walking around and we had a long talk about the Chino Air Show. He looked a lot better than his current normal. This morning I got a call and was told I had to come right away. When I arrived, he was with three football coaches from the school where he was "The Voice of the Ravens." He was unable to talk or raise his head and his breathing was labored. The hospice nurse said that he could hear us. The coaches prayed with him, sang a couple of songs and ended with a Raven cheer. I walked outside to call my folks who knew Jack and to cancel my trip to visit them this weekend. When his nephew came out and said it was all over. He was surround by family and friends. A couple hours later, the folks came to pick him up and we gathered on the front lawn to say Good-bye as they loaded him into the truck. The Air Force decided to say "Thank you for your service" and a plane from Edwards AFB broke the sound barrier overhead. So Jack was loaded with a sonic boom. As I get the details for his memorial service, I will send them to you. Please keep your thoughts and prayers for his family, Tom, Proud to say he was my friend. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2009
From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net
Subject: Re: Jack's Final Flight
Hi Tom, I am truly sorry to hear about KABONG. I always got a big kick out of his posts & have wondered what became of him in the last few years. Please send may deepest condolences to his family. Thank you. Sincerely, Hal Benjamin Long Island, New York RV-4 ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Gummo Date: Thursday, May 21, 2009 7:51 pm Subject: RV-List: Jack's Final Flight > My friend Jack Starn, many of you knew him as KABONG, has passed > away. He has been sick for a long time and his heart just gave > up. He hasn't added his witty comments to the lists for the > last several years but the old timers will remember his emails. > > For the new guys/gals on the list, Jack moved next door to me > right after I got the tail kit for the RV-4. It quickly turned > into a Harmon Rocket II, and Jack held the bucking bar for all > 16,000 rivets (plus or minus a few). During the five years of > building Jack got cancer and had to have his vocal cords removed > and talked with a buzzer held against his neck. > > We had a few good years but he got sick again. They couldn't > find out why he lost 85 pounds and just got weaker and weaker. > > Anyway, the email I sent to my EAA chapter is below. > > For you all who might remember Jack-KABONG, please sent a short > note, you know just a line or two with a personal comment, and I > will copy them to a letter I will give the family. > > The memorial sevice will be May 30th at 10:00 AM. Some RV > guys/gals are attempting to set up a missing man fly-by to start > the service. After the service, we will take him for his last > plane ride. > > Tom "GummiBear" Gummo > Harmon Rocket II N-561FS 350 hours > Major USAF Retired, F-4G Instuctor Pilot > http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html > > ****************************************************************************** > Everybody, > > Jack took his final flight this morning, May 19, 2009 > > Last night, my wife cooked and we took the food up to the > Starn's and had a nice evening with them. Jack was up walking > around and we had a long talk about the Chino Air Show. He > looked a lot better than his current normal. > > This morning I got a call and was told I had to come right away. > When I arrived, he was with three football coaches from the > school where he was "The Voice of the Ravens." He was unable to > talk or raise his head and his breathing was labored. The > hospice nurse said that he could hear us. The coaches prayed > with him, sang a couple of songs and ended with a Raven cheer. > > I walked outside to call my folks who knew Jack and to cancel my > trip to visit them this weekend. When his nephew came out and > said it was all over. He was surround by family and friends. > > A couple hours later, the folks came to pick him up and we > gathered on the front lawn to say Good-bye as they loaded him > into the truck. > The Air Force decided to say "Thank you for your service" and a > plane from Edwards AFB broke the sound barrier overhead. So > Jack was loaded with a sonic boom. > > As I get the details for his memorial service, I will send them > to you. > > Please keep your thoughts and prayers for his family, > > Tom, > Proud to say he was my friend. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2009
Subject: Re: Jack's Final Flight
From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
I remember posts from KABONG. I hope that someone reads High Flight at his service. Mark > My friend Jack Starn, many of you knew him as KABONG, has passed away. He > has been sick for a long time and his heart just gave up. He hasn't added > his witty comments to the lists for the last several years but the old > timers will remember his emails. > > For the new guys/gals on the list, Jack moved next door to me right after > I got the tail kit for the RV-4. It quickly turned into a Harmon Rocket > II, and Jack held the bucking bar for all 16,000 rivets (plus or minus a > few). During the five years of building Jack got cancer and had to have > his vocal cords removed and talked with a buzzer held against his neck. > > We had a few good years but he got sick again. They couldn't find out why > he lost 85 pounds and just got weaker and weaker. > > Anyway, the email I sent to my EAA chapter is below. > > For you all who might remember Jack-KABONG, please sent a short note, you > know just a line or two with a personal comment, and I will copy them to a > letter I will give the family. > > The memorial sevice will be May 30th at 10:00 AM. Some RV guys/gals are > attempting to set up a missing man fly-by to start the service. After the > service, we will take him for his last plane ride. > > Tom "GummiBear" Gummo > Harmon Rocket II N-561FS 350 hours > Major USAF Retired, F-4G Instuctor Pilot > http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html > > ****************************************************************************** > Everybody, > > Jack took his final flight this morning, May 19, 2009 > > Last night, my wife cooked and we took the food up to the Starn's and had > a nice evening with them. Jack was up walking around and we had a long > talk about the Chino Air Show. He looked a lot better than his current > normal. > > This morning I got a call and was told I had to come right away. When I > arrived, he was with three football coaches from the school where he was > "The Voice of the Ravens." He was unable to talk or raise his head and > his breathing was labored. The hospice nurse said that he could hear us. > The coaches prayed with him, sang a couple of songs and ended with a Raven > cheer. > > I walked outside to call my folks who knew Jack and to cancel my trip to > visit them this weekend. When his nephew came out and said it was all > over. He was surround by family and friends. > > A couple hours later, the folks came to pick him up and we gathered on the > front lawn to say Good-bye as they loaded him into the truck. > The Air Force decided to say "Thank you for your service" and a plane from > Edwards AFB broke the sound barrier overhead. So Jack was loaded with a > sonic boom. > > As I get the details for his memorial service, I will send them to you. > > Please keep your thoughts and prayers for his family, > > Tom, > Proud to say he was my friend. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
Date: May 22, 2009
Loctite 290 is the same as Permatex 29000 and NAPA BK 7651148. (Drove a few miles to figure this out...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Date: May 22, 2009
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
For vacuum ....I have one of these older models for HVAC work ...and while I have not done this on the RV fuel tanks.... I am aware of the technique & done on home heating oil tank (less volatile??) repairs with vacuum cleaner...this probably will not collapse your tank as fast either... Thus for my $.02 FWIW ...if you have an air compressor and long hoses you can make vacuum from one of these without electric motors near by & present... Yup good old Harbor Freight.... Internet prices matched at our local store too... go see item 96677-7VGA, Air Vacuum Pump $14.99 and with R134A and R12 Connectors to boot....heck someday you may want to put AC in a RV and vacuum out the system prior to charge??? RV6 350 + TT Builder, Pilot. FJ2 **************Stay connected and tighten your budget with a great mobile device for under $50. Take a Peek! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Jack's Final Flight
Date: May 22, 2009
I remember reading his post, God Bless him and the men and women who will give him a great send off. It's great to have a group of wonderful friends to help his family in this time of sadness and sorrow. Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: halbenjamin(at)optonline.net To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 10:17 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Jack's Final Flight Hi Tom, I am truly sorry to hear about KABONG. I always got a big kick out of his posts & have wondered what became of him in the last few years. Please send may deepest condolences to his family. Thank you. Sincerely, Hal Benjamin Long Island, New York RV-4 ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Gummo Date: Thursday, May 21, 2009 7:51 pm Subject: RV-List: Jack's Final Flight To: Rocket List , RV List > My friend Jack Starn, many of you knew him as KABONG, has passed > away. He has been sick for a long time and his heart just gave > up. He hasn't added his witty comments to the lists for the > last several years but the old timers will remember his emails. > > For the new guys/gals on the list, Jack moved next door to me > right after I got the tail kit for the RV-4. It quickly turned > into a Harmon Rocket II, and Jack held the bucking bar for all > 16,000 rivets (plus or minus a few). During the five years of > building Jack got cancer and had to have his vocal cords removed > and talked with a buzzer held against his neck. > > We had a few good years but he got sick again. They couldn't > find out why he lost 85 pounds and just got weaker and weaker. > > Anyway, the email I sent to my EAA chapter is below. > > For you all who might remember Jack-KABONG, please sent a short > note, you know just a line or two with a personal comment, and I > will copy them to a letter I will give the family. > > The memorial sevice will be May 30th at 10:00 AM. Some RV > guys/gals are attempting to set up a missing man fly-by to start > the service. After the service, we will take him for his last > plane ride. > > Tom "GummiBear" Gummo > Harmon Rocket II N-561FS 350 hours > Major USAF Retired, F-4G Instuctor Pilot > http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html > > ************************************************************************* ***** > Everybody, > > Jack took his final flight this morning, May 19, 2009 > > Last night, my wife cooked and we took the food up to the > Starn's and had a nice evening with them. Jack was up walking > around and we had a long talk about the Chino Air Show. He > looked a lot better than his current normal. > > This morning I got a call and was told I had to come right away. > When I arrived, he was with three football coaches from the > school where he was "The Voice of the Ravens." He was unable to > talk or raise his head and his breathing was labored. The > hospice nurse said that he could hear us. The coaches prayed > with him, sang a couple of songs and ended with a Raven cheer. > > I walked outside to call my folks who knew Jack and to cancel my > trip to visit them this weekend. When his nephew came out and > said it was all over. He was surround by family and friends. > > A couple hours later, the folks came to pick him up and we > gathered on the front lawn to say Good-bye as they loaded him > into the truck. > The Air Force decided to say "Thank you for your service" and a > plane from Edwards AFB broke the sound barrier overhead. So > Jack was loaded with a sonic boom. > > As I get the details for his memorial service, I will send them > to you. > > Please keep your thoughts and prayers for his family, > > Tom, > Proud to say he was my friend. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
RV6160hp(at)aol.com wrote: > *For vacuum ....I have one of these older models for HVAC work ...and > while I have not done this on the RV fuel tanks.... I am aware of the > technique & done on home heating oil tank (less volatile??) repairs > with vacuum cleaner...this probably will not collapse your tank as > fast either...* > ** > *Thus for my $.02 FWIW ...if you have an air compressor and long hoses > you can make vacuum from one of these without electric motors near by > & present...* > ** > *Yup good old Harbor Freight.... Internet prices matched at our local > store too... go see item 96677-7VGA, **Air Vacuum Pump $14.99 and > with R134A and R12 Connectors to boot....heck someday you may want to > put AC in a RV and vacuum out the system prior to charge???* > ** > *RV6 350 + TT Builder, Pilot.* > *FJ2* You might want to ignore anything I say after I posted the wrong loctite #, but here goes: All you're looking for is a pressure differential & you don't really need it for that long. With a large syringe (no needle) & a sheet of soft rubber with a hole in the middle, you can put a drop of thread lock on the rivet, use the rubber sheet as a gasket, and pressurize the area using the syringe. Once the thread lock is forced into the gap, no pressure is needed. In fact, continued pressure/vacuum can actually re-open the gap. Does the description make sense? Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6160hp(at)aol.com
Date: May 22, 2009
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
Yup whole heatedly agreed...the vacuum I applied in the past on big "earl" tanks was to replace filters, fittings & lines without flow out from the tanks for a duration of repairs...I can understand fully your mention of we may just reopen the gap with constant vacuum applied... I easily can agree with your force a little via pressure (not vacuum now) into the leak area there from the outside, localized as you outlined below, it would be a better 1st attempt for leak repair....... In a message dated 5/22/2009 6:56:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, ceengland(at)bellsouth.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England RV6160hp(at)aol.com wrote: > *For vacuum ....I have one of these older models for HVAC work ...and > while I have not done this on the RV fuel tanks.... I am aware of the > technique & done on home heating oil tank (less volatile??) repairs > with vacuum cleaner...this probably will not collapse your tank as > fast either...* > ** > *Thus for my $.02 FWIW ...if you have an air compressor and long hoses > you can make vacuum from one of these without electric motors near by > & present...* > ** > *Yup good old Harbor Freight.... Internet prices matched at our local > store too... go see item 96677-7VGA, **Air Vacuum Pump $14.99 and > with R134A and R12 Connectors to boot....heck someday you may want to > put AC in a RV and vacuum out the system prior to charge???* > ** > *RV6 350 + TT Builder, Pilot.* > *FJ2* You might want to ignore anything I say after I posted the wrong loctite #, but here goes: All you're looking for is a pressure differential & you don't really need it for that long. With a large syringe (no needle) & a sheet of soft rubber with a hole in the middle, you can put a drop of thread lock on the rivet, use the rubber sheet as a gasket, and pressurize the area using the syringe. Once the thread lock is forced into the gap, no pressure is needed. In fact, continued pressure/vacuum can actually re-open the gap. Does the description make sense? Charlie **************Stay connected and tighten your budget with a great mobile device for under $50. Take a Peek! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
From: Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Date: May 22, 2009
Evan Johnson gave me some great advice, and I was able to fix a fairly large leak (despite the air pressure testing) by diluting Proseal with lacquer thinner, which contains MEK and some other ingredients. It did a great job, but it has to be run along the seams, on the inside of the tank, involving removing the tank. I did some comparison between using acetone and lacquer thinner and the latter did a much better job of making the Proseal adequately runny, but it dried to a nice firm consistency. Unfortunately, if you're trying to fix a baffle seal leak, rather than a rivet, you'll have to remove the tank to do this. The good news is that you can pour in the diluted Proseal via the filler and just patiently let it flow along to the other end and back a few times. You should not need to cut new holes if it's leaking along the baffle seam. As others suggested, the best way to test the tank is with Avgas since the staining helps localize the leaks, and on my data point of two tanks, the air test failed to localize a leak in one of them. Ian Brown RV-9A Bromont Quebec ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2009
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Leaking Tank How To
Ian wrote: > > Evan Johnson gave me some great advice, and I was able to fix a fairly > large leak (despite the air pressure testing) by diluting Proseal with > lacquer thinner, which contains MEK and some other ingredients. It did > a great job, but it has to be run along the seams, on the inside of the > tank, involving removing the tank. I did some comparison between using > acetone and lacquer thinner and the latter did a much better job of > making the Proseal adequately runny, but it dried to a nice firm > consistency. > > Unfortunately, if you're trying to fix a baffle seal leak, rather than a > rivet, you'll have to remove the tank to do this. The good news is that > you can pour in the diluted Proseal via the filler and just patiently > let it flow along to the other end and back a few times. You should not > need to cut new holes if it's leaking along the baffle seam. > > As others suggested, the best way to test the tank is with Avgas since > the staining helps localize the leaks, and on my data point of two > tanks, the air test failed to localize a leak in one of them. > > Ian Brown > RV-9A > Bromont > Quebec > I had a similar issue with an aux tank I added to the wing leading edge (laid the bead too far from the back baffle). I called Flamemaster (the brand of 'proseal' Van was supplying at the time) & asked for a pour able sealant that was compatible with the original sealant. IIRC, the product they recommended was CS3600; you can find the spec sheet here: http://www.flamemaster.com/sealants.html I've also (mis?)used it on the access cover as a gasket sealant for the cork gasket, & then painted it over the edges& over the screw heads after installing the cover. If anyone needs to order some, drop me a line & I'll go look at the can to be sure of the # before you order. :-) Lots of other interesting stuff on the page, including the CS3300 products. Charlie ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2009
Subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I got my nose gear back from Langair last week and remounted it and just set the nose wheel breakout force tonight. I then tried to drill the 1/8" holes for the large cotter pin that secures the big castle nut that holds the fork on. After an hour I am perhaps 1/3 of the way thru the wall of the nose gear. I'm using new drill bits and "tap magic" cutting fluid. I put a piece of tape on the chuck of the hand drill so I could see how fast it is turning. I think it is no more than 500 RPM. I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with the #40). The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The #30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow going. Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using drill bits I bought from Avery which work fine on aluminum and soft steel. Or perhaps a different type of cutting fluid? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org>
Subject: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
Date: May 23, 2009
All work and a dull drill make Jack a bored buy. Have you sharpened your bits? Bruce www.Glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 1:20 AM Subject: RV-List: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin I got my nose gear back from Langair last week and remounted it and just set the nose wheel breakout force tonight. I then tried to drill the 1/8" holes for the large cotter pin that secures the big castle nut that holds the fork on. After an hour I am perhaps 1/3 of the way thru the wall of the nose gear. I'm using new drill bits and "tap magic" cutting fluid. I put a piece of tape on the chuck of the hand drill so I could see how fast it is turning. I think it is no more than 500 RPM. I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with the #40). The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The #30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow going. Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using drill bits I bought from Avery which work fine on aluminum and soft steel. Or perhaps a different type of cutting fluid? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: May 23, 2009
Subject: Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
Try a TiN (Titanium Nitride) treated drill bit or carbide and go at slow speed with significant force. -N1GV (RV-6A Flying 922TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) In a message dated 5/22/2009 10:23:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, sarg314(at)gmail.com writes: Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using drill bits I bought from Avery which work fine on aluminum and soft steel. Or perhaps a different type of cutting fluid? **************A strong credit score is 700 or above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! cd=Maystrongfooter52309NO115) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2009
From: dan(at)rdan.com
Subject: RV8 QB kit for sale
RV8 Quick build kit for sale Fuselage, Wings and Empennage. Tail is done and hanging on the fuselage. completed per the plans up to bra kes and installing the landing gear legs. alking- $24,000 located in the Seatle area, Dan 425-754-0112 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2009
From: Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
I do metal machining on the side and was asked by a fellow RV builder to drill the hole through the top of the gear leg. I used a high speed steel drill bit, new, with lots of lubrication and got nowhere fast. I then bought a carbide tipped bit 1/64" smaller than required. This worked fine again with lots of lube, turning slow, slow, slow. Heat is the enemy here as the metal will work harden from the drilling heat. I then used a reamer to clean up the hole to the proper size. The reamer was wasted after the use. The result was a perfect fit. I would use a carbide tipped bit as it will "give" a little going through the hard metal (chatter). A full carbide bit could be used, but more care must be taken especially with the smaller size bits. Dave --- On Sat, 5/23/09, thomas sargent wrote: > From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> > Subject: RV-List: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Saturday, May 23, 2009, 1:19 AM > I got my nose gear back from Langair > last week and remounted it and just set the nose wheel > breakout force tonight. I then tried to drill the 1/8" > holes for the large cotter pin that secures the big castle > nut that holds the fork on. After an hour I am perhaps 1/3 > of the way thru the wall of the nose gear. I'm using > new drill bits and "tap magic" cutting fluid. I > put a piece of tape on the chuck of the hand drill so I > could see how fast it is turning. I think it is no more > than 500 RPM. I'm using a #30 and a #40 (Langair says > to make a dimple with the #30 then drill a pilot hole with > the #40). The #40 seems to make no progress at all. The > #30 at least produces some filings, but it's REALLY slow > going. > > > Is there a better type of drill bit to use? I'm using > drill bits I bought from Avery which work fine on aluminum > and soft steel. Or perhaps a different type of cutting > fluid? > > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly. > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2009
Subject: Re: drilling hole in nose gear for cotter pin
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I picked up a couple of carbide drills this morning. They went through easily. In fact it seems they cut best at about 300 rpm - that's where I got the best turnings, anyway. So carbide is the way to go on this. Thanks for all the responses. Now if I could just get all these wires hooked up the way they were back when everything worked .... -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gregg Costabile" <gcostabile(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: MX11 PIN-OUT or NARCO COM11 PIN-OUT or an EXTRACT FROM
THE INSTALL MANUAL
Date: May 24, 2009
A.J., did you send the pinouts under separate cover? I wasn't able to find the file or a link in your response. I have a similar problem with the MX11 and a PS Engineering 1000 intercom. The intercom is crystal clear. I can hear everyone talking to me. My transmissions are unreadable. A version of the pinout diagram found on the web has a hand written comment about a resistor and capacitor mod required to the radio's "computer board". Is this true? If so, does anyone have any more information on it? Jerry, any luck with yours yet? - Gregg C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "A. J. Mendes Pereira" <mendper(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: MX11 PIN-OUT or NARCO COM11 PIN-OUT or an EXTRACT FROM
THE INSTALL MANUAL
Date: May 24, 2009
Here you have it! ----- Original Message ----- From: Gregg Costabile To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 4:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: MX11 PIN-OUT or NARCO COM11 PIN-OUT or an EXTRACT FROM THE INSTALL MANUAL A.J., did you send the pinouts under separate cover? I wasn't able to find the file or a link in your response. I have a similar problem with the MX11 and a PS Engineering 1000 intercom. The intercom is crystal clear. I can hear everyone talking to me. My transmissions are unreadable. A version of the pinout diagram found on the web has a hand written comment about a resistor and capacitor mod required to the radio's "computer board". Is this true? If so, does anyone have any more information on it? Jerry, any luck with yours yet? - Gregg C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 25, 2009
From: david cook <davercook1501(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Help on leaking tank
All Thanks to everyone who replied to my question about getting vacuum to the tank to fix the leaking rivet . Will let you know results soon. Glad to know vacuum may not be necessary. Thanks David R. Cook N815DC RV-6 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: FW: Exhaust System for O-320
Date: May 25, 2009
Just checking to see if anyone knows of a Fuel Pump and an Exhaust system a vailable for and O-320-B2C. I thought I'd check the group first before goin g for the new stuff. If so=2C drop me a line. Thanks. R.C. _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com
Date: May 26, 2009
Subject: Re: FW: Exhaust System for O-320
Contact me off-list. I have a good, used exhaust system for an 0-320-E2D for sale. **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! MaystepsfooterNO62) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
Dear Listers, I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what kind of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose to use *more* than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the Cleveland box. There seems to be a fair amount of grease already there. What's the common notion on this? Thanks! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & Brakes... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Alternate RV-8 Gear Leg Alignment Proceedure
Dear Listers, I devised a different method for doing the initial gear leg alignment on the RV-8 this past weekend. When I flipped the fuselage back right side up and bolted the axles on, I was very pleased to find that both the left and right gear and axles are perfectly aligned without any shim. Best part was the procedure is pretty easy and doesn't take much "tinkering" around to get right. I bought two 8' long, 1.5" wide pieces of angle aluminium from the hardware store. The kind *without* the radius at the center. I used the bolt pattern from the wheel pant mount to drill two 1/4" holes in the center of each piece and then bolted them to the gear legs. I then measured precisely between the gear and came up with 65 11/16". I went back to Lowes and had them carefully cut a piece of 3/8" particle board to the 65 11/16" measurement and left the 48" side as is. Their gantry saw was off by about 1/16" in squareness but we flipped the board over and sliced just enough off to make it exactly the desired width. A measurement corner-to-corner showed that it was perfectly square. I took this perfectly parallel piece of board and put into the channel formed by the two pieces of aluminium angles between the gear legs. Its really easy at that point to see if the gear legs are parallel or not and just as easy to adjust them so they are. I added a couple of wood clamps and the whole thing was very stable and rigid and allowed for accurate drilling of all the holes. Once the fuselage was flipped back over, I used the same 8' long piece of angle to check the toe-in/toe-out of both axles and found them to be perfectly aligned. The angle really makes it easy to tell if they are in alignment. Anyway, I thought I pass this process along for other builders. It seems a lot easier and more accurate than using plumb bobs. I've attached a number of photos of the setup. Best regards, Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 Gear Mounted (whew), Wheels & Brakes Next... Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2009
From: "E Stone" <estone(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2009
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
I repacked in order to remove the red grease. I used one of the bearing packing tools. I ended up with a little more than was originally there. I made sure there was a bit on the felt where it contacts the spacer. YMMV Ralph RV6A N822AR 15hrs..... -----Original Message----- >From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> >Sent: May 27, 2009 3:51 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Packing The Wheel Bearings... > > >Dear Listers, > >I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what kind of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose to use *more* than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the Cleveland box. There seems to be a fair amount of grease already there. What's the common notion on this? > >Thanks! > >Matt Dralle >RV-8 #82880 N998RV >Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & Brakes... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2009
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
If they've sufficiently lubed between the rollers to pack it all in, and there is enough grease next to the seal and around it, you should be good to go. The thing you don't want to forget to do though is to oil the felt seals if you have felt seals. Definitely do that. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD Matt Dralle wrote: > Dear Listers, > > I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates > what kind of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether > you're suppose to use *more* than is already gooped in the bearing > when you open the Cleveland box. There seems to be a fair amount of > grease already there. What's the common notion on this? > > Thanks! > > Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV Gear Mounted (whew), Adding Wheels & > Brakes... > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 27, 2009
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Packing The Wheel Bearings...
From: Ed Gilroy <egilroy(at)gmail.com>
Matt: Having repacked, replaced bearings and races on my share of Cessnas, the answer is "it depends". Were the bearings packed with a bearing packer, what grease was used, and how long ago were they packed? If they came that way from Van's or another supplier, and sat in storage, you have no way of knowing, so I would wash it all out with solvent. Grease has a definite shelf life, I replace in service AeroShell packings every year and chuck the can after 24 months. Then repack them with a bearing packer ("Lisle" makes a nice one) and apply a goodly swipe to the races as well. Don't go overboard, this isn't one of those cases (like with duct tape) where a little is good, a whole lot is better, it just runs out and all over everything, when put in service. Keep the packer, you'll need it for your repacks at annual time. Ed On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 3:51 PM, Matt Dralle wrote: > > Dear Listers, > > I'm just about to put the wheels on the axles. The manual indicates what > kind of grease to use, but doesn't really indicate whether you're suppose to > use *more* than is already gooped in the bearing when you open the Cleveland


April 15, 2009 - May 28, 2009

RV-Archive.digest.vol-tz