RV-Archive.digest.vol-ue
September 15, 2009 - October 17, 2009
> Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
> I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
> =C2-
> Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly
> appreciated.
> =C2-
> Thanks,
> =C2-
> Walt Shipley
>
>
>
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
>
>
>
>
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=C2-=C2- =C2- =C2-
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) |
I used cowl louvers on my 7A with the oil cooler that Van supplied
(io 360) and I am going to have to block part of the oil cooler off
this fall to raise the temps a bit --even on the hottest days going
across the dessert the temps seldom get above 190 on take off and in
the low 180s in cruse. Cylinder temps have stayed below 350 usually
around 330 F. I'm not sure I needed the louvers -- but they look great.
Dave @ RAL
125 hours
On Sep 15, 2009, at 5:28 AM, N395V wrote:
>
> You can get the louvers here.......
>
> http://www.averytools.com/
>
> --------
> Milt
> 2003 F1 Rocket
> 2006 Radial Rocket
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263110#263110
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
Matt,
Seems like I've been working on the baffles for years - but its been severa
l months! It's a slow tedious process. - Tonight I'm going to rivet the air
seal fabric and declare victory.
I'm building an RV-8A with a new Aerosport IO-360. The thing that bothered
me most during the baffle saga was the amount of metal material I had to r
emove in order to get the 3/8-1/2 inch baffle to cowl clnc. And the difficu
lty I had getting the cowl to fit over the oil cooler (standard Vans) corne
r. I'd estimate I removed a third of the metal is some areas.
As I got closer I used a zillion large paper clips set next to each other a
ll around the baffles to get final shape / clnc. Basically, set a zillion p
aper clips, attach - or place the cowl where baffle interference prevents a
ttachment - cowl, mark 3/8-1/2 inch from top of paper clips on baffles, rem
ove baffles, trim baffles - usually in 1/8 inch increments, reattach baffle
s - and repeat ad infinitum.
After getting the final shape, I worked with the airseal fabric - 1 inch be
low and 1 =BD inches above baffle contour. Drilled and clecoed airseal fabr
ic to baffle - then fiddled with corners - including lacing - to get the be
st seal possible.
I went through my adjective vocabulary many, many times.
A related question for the assembled expertise: I have one Lightspeed and o
ne mag. Are blast tubes needed - or can I leave a small gap along the botto
m of the rear baffles to provide some airflow aft of the baffles?
Paul Valovich
N192NM Reserved - again
Ridgecrest, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Hesitation -Oil temps |
I have an RV-6A with an IO-320 and initially was plagued by very high
(240=B0+) oil temps. I tried a variety of solutions without help,
including adding louvers to the bottom of the cowl, opening up the
cowl air exit area, changing Vernatherms, changing oil pressure
settings, checking timing, etc. Nothing helped. I was convinced my
rebuilt engine had the wrong bearing inserts and so we (my engine
builder and I) pulled the engine and tore it down. Bottom line was all
of the internal engine specs were well within tolerance with no signs
of overheating or stress. Reassembled and reinstalled, the high oil
temps remained.
My oil cooler was a Van's Niagara mounted on the firewall and fed by a
3 inch scat tube with air taken from behind cylinder number three. I
changed to a larger, more efficient (and much more expensive) Stewart
Warner cooler from ACS and fed it with a 4 inch scat tube. (can't
remember the nomenclature, but if anybody is interested, I'll look it
up.) Problem solved. Now, even on a 100=B0+ day, climbing out with a hot
engine, I rarely see more than 200=B0 oil temps. In cruise my oil temps
are a consistent 179=B0 even at low altitudes, at high rpm, on a hot
day.
One other solution - My AFP fuel injection has a fuel control metering
jet that provides additional fuel at full throttle to help keep CHTs
cool. Changing the metering jet to the next available size larger
dropped my CHTs by about 50=B0 during the climb and also helped keep the
oil temps cool.
I'm considering covering the cowl louvers over to see if that makes
any difference now.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
--------------------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt,
=C2-
I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil
temps in
the 180's?=C2- I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a Hartzell
con
stant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed ignition.=C2- On a
wa
rm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise.=C2- The only time I see 180 is
in
the winter.=C2- My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the baffle.=C2-
I
t has a 1" C-Channel stand off=C2-and is well sealed to the
baffle.=C2-
I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
evidenced b
y=C2-CHT's in the low to mid 300's.=C2- I even cut about two inches
off
the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit.=C2- How did you get
18
0's?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Kellems <kellemsm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Waterproofing RV-4's |
I had the same problem with an RV4...I-also tightly wrapped the wax paper
on the forward deck. - then put clear silicone on the wax paper thick enou
gh to squeeze out with the canopy-closed.- Waited overnight, peeled the
wax paper off of the silicone-and trimmed the excess with box cutter fro
nt and inside.- Worked quite well. I was able to-hose-the plane down
without leaks afterward. And, was not noticable.
Mike Kellems
RV3 74TX
Tough Times don't last - Tough People do!!
--- On Mon, 9/14/09, Paul Besing wrote:
From: Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Waterproofing RV-4's
Date: Monday, September 14, 2009, 7:29 PM
Jeff, I had the same problem with mine.- What I did was cut off the front
of the fiberglass fairing that laps up on the forward skin.- Then I cove
red the forward skin, very tightly, with wax paper (or use a mold release a
s long as it doesn't hurt the paint.)- Then I adjusted the canopy to clos
e very tightly.- Glassed a new fairing on top of the old one, overlapping
the front skin in an arc fashion.- Let it cure closed.- Then trimmed t
o fit, and put a seal from Ace Hardware underneath.- Flew IMC quite a bit
without any more leaking.
Paul Besing
From: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2009 9:39:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Waterproofing RV-4's
My RV-4 can't fly through rain.- It leaks terribly the forward edge of th
e tip over canopy.- I've tried various seals, the latest being a V-shaped
seal.- Does anyone know how to really waterproof the RV-4?
-
Jeff Bertsch
Houston
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps |
My carbureted 6-A O-360-A1A Hartzell C/S suffered hi oil and cylinder
head temps on the hotter days that required reducing climb rates to
avoid over heating.
I went out and bought some louvers then just before installing them I
was advised to contact my engine builder regarding carburetor main jet
sizes and their effect on engine temps.
The main jet size was increased and the engine now runs comfortably cool
at what ever climb rate is required. OATs well above 35 degrees Celsius
are no longer a problem.
I'm pleased that the louvers and their associated drag are no longer
required.
I slept in one of those damned hotels, ....It did nothing to improve my
expertise on the ins and outs of upper and lower cowling air flow rates
and their effect on engine temps and associated drag etc.
It just seemed to me that if other RV6-A types can run cool without the
added louvers then so should mine.
In this case The "KISS" principle might well be the right approach,
Jim in Kelowna
P.S. Jerry did you decide to stay on the lists for a while yet
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Brame
To: RV List
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 8:41 AM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps
I have an RV-6A with an IO-320 and initially was plagued by very high
(240=B0+) oil temps. I tried a variety of solutions without help,
including adding louvers to the bottom of the cowl, opening up the cowl
air exit area, changing Vernatherms, changing oil pressure settings,
checking timing, etc. Nothing helped. I was convinced my rebuilt engine
had the wrong bearing inserts and so we (my engine builder and I) pulled
the engine and tore it down. Bottom line was all of the internal engine
specs were well within tolerance with no signs of overheating or stress.
Reassembled and reinstalled, the high oil temps remained.
My oil cooler was a Van's Niagara mounted on the firewall and fed by a
3 inch scat tube with air taken from behind cylinder number three. I
changed to a larger, more efficient (and much more expensive) Stewart
Warner cooler from ACS and fed it with a 4 inch scat tube. (can't
remember the nomenclature, but if anybody is interested, I'll look it
up.) Problem solved. Now, even on a 100=B0+ day, climbing out with a hot
engine, I rarely see more than 200=B0 oil temps. In cruise my oil temps
are a consistent 179=B0 even at low altitudes, at high rpm, on a hot
day.
One other solution - My AFP fuel injection has a fuel control metering
jet that provides additional fuel at full throttle to help keep CHTs
cool. Changing the metering jet to the next available size larger
dropped my CHTs by about 50=B0 during the climb and also helped keep the
oil temps cool.
I'm considering covering the cowl louvers over to see if that makes
any difference now.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
--------------------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt,
=C2-
I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil
temps in
the 180's?=C2- I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a
Hartzell con
stant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed ignition.=C2- On
a wa
rm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise.=C2- The only time I see 180
is in
the winter.=C2- My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the
baffle.=C2- I
t has a 1" C-Channel stand off=C2-and is well sealed to the
baffle.=C2-
I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
evidenced b
y=C2-CHT's in the low to mid 300's.=C2- I even cut about two
inches off
the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit.=C2- How did you
get 18
0's?????
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.088).
http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.088).
http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation |
| From: | "khorton" <kevin01(at)kilohotel.com> |
rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine hesitancy or "stumble"
that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM range
of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during run-up.
In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
> is warm.
>
Fuel injected Lycomings quite commonly run rough at idle if the engine is hot,
as the fuel vaporizes in the fuel injection lines from the "spider" to the fuel
injectors (it may be vaporizing in the spider too, so simply insulating the
injection lines might not be an adequate test). They run OK at higher power,
as the pressure in the spider and those lines increases as the fuel flow increases.
At higher power the fuel pressure is high enough to keep the fuel from
vaporizing.
If this is the cause of your rough running, you might be able to improve things
by switching to fuel injection nozzles from Air Flow Performance. They sell
nozzles with many different diameters. Smaller nozzles require higher line pressure
to get the same fuel flow, so this reduces the chances of fuel vaporizing
at idle. If you go down this road, you need to be sure you are still getting
enough fuel flow at take-off power. I don't know if you can just install
these smaller nozzles and go flying, or if the fuel injection servo needs to
be set up on a flow bench. Don at AFP would know.
--------
Kevin Horton RV-8
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263218#263218
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re:RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation) |
I beleive I bought mine from avey, only used one of them though. Mark
Rose RV8A 175hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 4:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re:RV-List Cowl Louvers (was engine hesitation)
Vince, one of the other listers asked me where I got my louvers but I
can't remember his name. I believe however that he has stopped
making them. If any on the list knows where to get them now, please
advise.
Also, if you go with the louvers, you will need some way to block them
off in cold weather. An electric mac servo might be a good
approach. Right now I just use metal covers when the weather turns
cold.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
To: "RV List Matronics"
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 9:57:37 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
I was looking at the louvers also. I was holding that option as a
last resort but it looks like I may have to go that way by next summer.
Thanks for the info.
Vince
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 23:54:17 +0000
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Vince, I too had temps above 200 F on warm days. That was before I
installed louvered vents in the lower cowl. Now I have the reverse
problem;
hard to get the oil temps up on cold days.
Walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
To: "RV List Matronics"
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
Eastern
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
Walt,
I know that it is off the subject but how did you end up with oil
temps in the 180's? I also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a
Hartzell constant speed prop, I have one mag and one lightspeed
ignition. On a warm day I will see 205 - 210 in cruise. The only time
I see 180 is in the winter. My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the
baffle. It has a 1" C-Channel stand off and is well sealed to the
baffle. I have cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
evidenced by CHT's in the low to mid 300's. I even cut about two inches
off the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit. How did you get
180's?????
Vince
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:56:45 +0000
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine
hesitancy or "stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an
RPM range of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during
run-up. In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
is warm.
I have talked to some very knowledgable folks and have tried several
things: (1) Reset the idle mixture, (2) removed and cleaned the
servo finger screen, (3) removed the nozzles and placed them in a cup
of acetone, which was then placed in a sonic cleaner for about
an hour. After the nozzles were reinstalled, I test flew the plane and
the stumble was gone. However, a subsequent test flight revealed
that although the engine was running much smoother, an occasional
stumble was still there.
Additional facts:
Oil temps are normal (around 180 deg F)
Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Walt Shipley
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wgill10(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation |
Installing a cooling shroud for the mechanical fuel pump should help accord
ing to Don at AFP. I have not done this yet, but intend to do so. I have a
Lycoming IO-390 with AFP fuel injection and the engine stumble has been a c
ommon occurrence following most summer flights or after engine start with l
ong ilde periods such as OSH taxi for departure. The engine stumble also oc
curs when fuel flow is very low (loitering with fuel flow at less than 6.8
gal/hr). There is NO hesitation during power application (take-off).
Bill
RV-7
500 hours since 11/2007
----- Original Message -----
From: "khorton" <kevin01(at)kilohotel.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 15, 2009 7:18:23 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: RV-List: Re: Engine Hesitation
rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which =C2-exhibits an engine hesita
ncy or "stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM
range of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during ru
n-up. In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
> is warm. =C2-
>
Fuel injected Lycomings quite commonly run rough at idle if the engine is h
ot, as the fuel vaporizes in the fuel injection lines from the "spider" to
the fuel injectors (it may be vaporizing in the spider too, so simply insul
ating the injection lines might not be an adequate test). =C2-They run OK
at higher power, as the pressure in the spider and those lines increases a
s the fuel flow increases. =C2-At higher power the fuel pressure is high
enough to keep the fuel from vaporizing.
If this is the cause of your rough running, you might be able to improve th
ings by switching to fuel injection nozzles from Air Flow Performance. =C2
-They sell nozzles with many different diameters. =C2-Smaller nozzles r
equire higher line pressure to get the same fuel flow, so this reduces the
chances of fuel vaporizing at idle. =C2- =C2-If you go down this road,
you need to be sure you are still getting enough fuel flow at take-off powe
r. =C2-I don't know if you can just install these smaller nozzles and go
flying, or if the fuel injection servo needs to be set up on a flow bench.
=C2-Don at AFP would know.
--------
Kevin Horton =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- RV-8
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263218#263218
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | halbenjamin(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 09/14/09 |
Interesting you should mention this Walt:
I have a similar problem with my RV-6A. A little history, the airplane was
signed off about a year ago and the first flight was right after
Thanksgiving. It ended with a dead engine during landing when over the
runway. Richening the mixture made it only slightly better so I began a 5
month quest to figure out why the engine didn't want to idle. I had some
feedback from people who said my problem was that I chose to use a wood prop
on an 0-360 engine WITH fuel injection. I was a bit skeptical and also had
feedback about checking for an intake leak so I went searching for a
possible problem there. I did find an intake leak, the hose clamp on the
number 1 cylinder intake tube at the sump. I tightened the hose clamp there
and also the intake tube bolts at the cylinder head (they weren't leaking
but were not at the correct torque). That helped only a little and didn't
cure the problem of the engine not wanting to idle when hot.
So I took up the advice of the "get a metal prop" crowd and bought a FP
Sensenich. It added lots of inertia (40 pounds vs wood at 15 pounds), which
would keep the engine turning over long enough to grab some throttle when it
wanted to quit but, it was a $2100.00 experiment that did NOT fix the
problem. So, I did what I should have done in the first place and checked
EVERYTHING in the fuel and ignition systems for problems. To make a long
story short, I discovered a sticky flow divider in the fuel injection
system. I talked to Don Rivera at Airflow Performance (mfgr of my injection
system) and he had me return the flow divider for repair. Once repaired, I
was able to lean the mixture to the proper fuel flow at idle and the engine
ran great, no stumbling or wanting to quit at idle with the metal prop. Don
did warn me that these systems will NOT always idle like a car and, that
engine stumbling would probably occur occasionally, especially when taxiing
after landing on a hot day.
After the flow divider was fixed I was always curious if the wood prop would
work now that the engine ran properly but didn't have the energy to do the
swap. Then, when Sensenich sent me a service letter requesting I return the
metal prop for radiographic inspection, I reinstalled the wood prop and have
been flying with it for a while. I also am experiencing a bit of a stumble
when taxiing back to the hangar after I land very similar to what you are
describing. I attribute it to what Don told me when he repaired my flow
divider. These FI systems are continuous flow types operated by atmospheric
pressure with no fuel returned to the tank during operation. The flow
divider and capillary tubes get hot because the engine is hot after you land
and the slow speed means cool air is NOT flowing over these parts (and the
fuel flow rate through the system is much lower). All that heat goes into
those stainless lines and the flow divider which, causes the occasional
bubble in the fuel which, results in the engine stumble you are
experiencing.
When I hear the engine stumbling I give a bit of throttle, what I don't like
is that I sometimes forget to retard the throttle and end up dragging the
brakes. Since I have the metal prop back in my possession now I'll
re-install it next time I have the cowling off but, for now, I like the
light weight and smoothness of the wood prop so I've been very happy flying
with it.
How long have you had this problem? If it wasn't a problem before and only
started giving you trouble recently (after several tens or hundreds of hours
of trouble free flying) then I'd say the intake leak is the most likely
suspect. If you just installed the prop and it has been giving you problems
from day one, then it may very well be what I describe above and you'll just
have to live with it. It's been an interesting education for me and I'm
just happy to be able to pass on my experiences now that everything is
working on my airplane. Let me know what you find out.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Finally finishing Phase I
-------------Original Message-------------------
>From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
>Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
>I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine hesitancy or
>"stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose. This problem shows up
>when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM range of 750-1300. In
>flight there is no evidence of a stumble, and no stumble at initial start
>up, taxiing out for take off or during run-up. In other words, the engine
>only exhibits this behavior when it is warm....
>
>Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Initial Baffle-To-Top-Cowling Fit... |
I just wanted to thank everyone for the great feedback on this baffling cut-down
procedure. I'm glad to hear that it wasn't just my installation!! :-)
I'll post some more pictures when I get things hacked down to size and that oil
cooler mounted.
Hey, check out my newly registered URL for my RV-8 Building site:
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Baffling and Oil Cooler...
At 07:00 PM 9/14/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>The RV-8's cowling done and fits like a glove. I started the baffling last night
and its coming along nicely. The fit on the sides and back are very good
considering the IO-390 installation (and the use of the IO-360 baffle kit). The
front baffling is completely different, however, and I'm slogging through the
custom fitting.
>
>But here's my question. I decided to put the top cowling on top of the baffling
that I've got installed so far and I was shocked that the baffling appears
to be a good 1 to 1.5" too tall!! Is this because of the IO-390 or is that just
where Van's expects you to start in your "cutting-it-down-to-size" phase?
That's a lot of snipping and fitting and snipping and fitting. I was expecting
to have to trim some, but not over a inch...
>
>Also, it looks like the over-sized oil cooler is going to fit nicely on the rear
baffle with only a little "modification". But I'm not sure if the back, upper
corner is going to clear the cowling. Since the cowling is sitting over a
inch high right now, I've got no way to really trial fit the oil cooler and check
for cowling clearance until I trim the baffling down. Worst-case I could
put a blister on the cowling for the rear, upper flange of the oil cooler, I
suppose, but that's kind of hokey. There is room to move the oil cooler in towards
the centerline about 1", but then the mount will no longer line up with
the flange on the outboard edge and will require more modifications.
>
>Thoughts...?
>
>Attached are some pics. ( Digest viewers check http://forums.matronics.com ).
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com
>Baffling and Oil Cooler...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps |
fuel is cool literally, that is the problem setting io's without the right gear.
As we all know if you lean them out they will burnup. if we can get away from
the "lowlead" it would be nice to be able to run o2 sensors.
rick
--- On Tue, 9/15/09, Jim wrote:
> From: Jim <jjewell(at)telus.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Hesitation -Oil temps
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, September 15, 2009, 2:20 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> My carbureted
> 6-A O-360-A1A Hartzell
> C/Ssuffered hi oil and cylinder head temps on the
> hotter days that
> required reducing climb rates to avoid over heating.
>
> I went out and bought some
> louvers then just before
> installing them I was advised to contact my engine builder
> regarding carburetor
> main jet sizes and their effect on engine
> temps.
> The mainjet size was
> increased and the engine
> now runs comfortably cool at what ever climb rate is
> required. OATs well above
> 35 degrees Celsius are no longer a problem.
>
> I'm pleased that the
> louvers and their associated
> drag are no longer required.
> I slept in one of those
> damned hotels, ....It did
> nothing to improve my expertise on the ins and outs of
> upper and lower cowling
> air flow rates and their effect on engine temps and
> associated drag
> etc.
> It just seemed to me that
> if other RV6-A types can
> run cool without the added louvers then so should
> mine.
>
> In this case The
> "KISS" principle might well be the
> right approach,
>
> Jim in
> Kelowna
>
> P.S. Jerry did you
> decide to stay on the
> lists for a while yet
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From:
> Charles Brame
>
> To: RV List
>
> Sent: Tuesday,
> September 15, 2009 8:41
> AM
> Subject: RV-List:
> Engine Hesitation -Oil
> temps
>
>
> I have an RV-6A with an IO-320 and initially was
> plagued by very
> high(240+)oil temps. I tried a variety of
> solutions without help,
> including adding louvers to the bottom of the cowl,
> opening up the cowl air
> exit area, changing Vernatherms, changing oil pressure
> settings, checking
> timing, etc. Nothing helped. I was convinced my rebuilt
> engine had the wrong
> bearing inserts and so we (my engine builder and I)
> pulled the engine and tore
> it down. Bottom line was all of the internal engine specs
> were well within
> tolerance with no signs of overheating or stress.
> Reassembled and reinstalled,
> the high oil temps remained.
>
>
> My oil cooler was a Van's Niagara mounted on the
> firewall and fed by a 3
> inch scat tube with air taken from behind cylinder number
> three. I changed to
> a larger, more efficient (and much more expensive)
> Stewart Warner cooler from
> ACS and fed it with a 4 inch scat tube. (can't
> remember the nomenclature, but
> if anybody is interested, I'll look it up.) Problem
> solved. Now, even on a
> 100+ day, climbing out with a hot engine, I rarely see
> more than 200 oil
> temps. In cruise my oil temps are a consistent179
> even at low
> altitudes, at high rpm, on a hot day.
>
>
> One other solution - My AFP fuel injection has a
> fuel control metering
> jetthat provides additional fuel at full throttle
> to help keep CHTs
> cool.Changing the metering jet to the next
> available size larger dropped
> my CHTs by about 50 during the climb and also helped
> keep the oil temps
> cool.
>
>
> I'm considering covering the cowl louvers over
> to see if that makes any
> difference now.
>
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> -----
> Original Message -----
> From:From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent(at)hotmail.com>
> Sent:
> Monday, September 14, 2009 6:28:47 PM GMT -05:00
> US/Canada
> Eastern
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine
> Hesitation
>
> Walt,
> =C2-
> I know that it is off the
> subject but how did you end up with oil temps in
> the 180's?=C2- I
> also have an RV-8A with an IO-360-A1A and a Hartzell con
> stant speed prop,
> I have one mag and one lightspeed ignition.=C2- On a wa
> rm day I will see
> 205 - 210 in cruise.=C2- The only time I see 180 is
> in
> the
> winter.=C2- My oil cooler is located behind #4 on the
> baffle.=C2- I
> t has a
> 1" C-Channel stand off=C2-and is well sealed to the
> baffle.=C2-
> I have
> cleaned up as much as I can, the baffle seal is good as
> evidenced
> b
> y=C2-CHT's in the low to mid 300's.=C2- I even cut
> about two inches
> off
> the bottom of the cowl to open up the exit a bit.=C2- How
> did you get
> 18
> 0's?????
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
> Checked by
> PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.088).
> http://www.pctools.com/fr
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
| From: | Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> |
Hello List,
I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an overheating
engine. On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will rise to 500 degrees
F briefly and then settle down to about 375 in the cruise. This is on
cylinder # 3, with the other cylinders being 20 degrees or more cooler.
The engine came off a Cessna 172 and runs very well.
The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the area of
this cylinder. (it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
Is this temperature abnormal?
Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to increase
airspeed but I makes it take longer to get to cooler air.
Ian Brown,
Bromont, QC
RV-9A C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
Ian,
Suggest climbing @ 100 knots minimum. Don't overheat trying to get to coole
r air which may not be that much cooler in the summer time.
This is kind of like going faster to get to a gas station quicker when you
are low on fuel. The fuel burn rate will go up in the attempt to not run ou
t of gas.
just my 2 cents worth of advise.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out
Hello List,
I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an overheating e
ngine. On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will rise to 500 degrees F br
iefly and then settle down to about 375 in the cruise. This is on cylinder
# 3, with the other cylinders being 20 degrees or more cooler. The engine
came off a Cessna 172 and runs very well.
The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the area of th
is cylinder. (it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
Is this temperature abnormal?
Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to increase
airspeed but I makes it take longer to get to cooler air.
Ian Brown,
Bromont, QC
RV-9A C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
That seems awfully hot! I am no A&P so I don't remember the maximum allowed, as
stated in the Lycoming manual, but I have my EFIS set to red-line at 400 degrees
for my O-360. They often get to that temp on take-off on a hot day but I
have never allowed them to get as high as yours are. I have been told that
the cylinders start to get soft at 450 deg. I too had been flying a slow climb-out
to keep the temps. down. Many builders have experienced the same problem
and have installed various versions of a small baffle in front of # 1 cylinder
in order to divert cooler air further back. If you do an archive search you
will probably find a lot of discussions of potential problems and solutions.
I intend to install the small baffle if I ever get to fly again.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian
Date: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 9:26 am
Subject: RV-List: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out
> Hello List,
> I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an
> overheatingengine. On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will
> rise to 500 degrees
> F briefly and then settle down to about 375 in the cruise. This
> is on
> cylinder # 3, with the other cylinders being 20 degrees or more
> cooler.The engine came off a Cessna 172 and runs very well.
>
> The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the
> area of
> this cylinder. (it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
>
> Is this temperature abnormal?
> Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
> For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to
> increaseairspeed but I makes it take longer to get to cooler
> air.
>
> Ian Brown,
> Bromont, QC
> RV-9A C-GOHM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Knicholas2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
I had the same problem with my 0-320 E2D that came out of a Cessna 172.
Not only would the CHTs get dangerously high, but the engine would
occasionally "hic-up". Very scary when you are in the clouds at 8000 feet.
As it turns out, the air intake dynamics in a C172 called for a much
leaner running carb than that needed for the high air flow RV. I want to
give proper credit here, as my help came from Mr. Bart Lalonde (spelling?)
from a British Columbia engine rebuilder whose name escapes me right now...
(Sorry Bart!)
With Bart's help, he shipped me a different carb jet that allows the
engine to run more rich. It only took me a couple of hours of work and the
difference was amazing. Now my CHT's rarely go above 450 even on a hot day.
Plus, the annoying "hic-up" went away.
I hope this helps.
Kim Nicholas
Auburn, WA
RV9A 350 hours.
In a message dated 9/16/2009 6:19:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ixb(at)videotron.ca writes:
Hello List,
I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an overheating
engine. On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will rise to 500 degrees F
briefly and then settle down to about 375 in the cruise. This is on cylinder
# 3, with the other cylinders being 20 degrees or more cooler. The engine
came off a Cessna 172 and runs very well.
The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the area of
this cylinder. (it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
Is this temperature abnormal?
Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to increase
airspeed but I makes it take longer to get to cooler air.
Ian Brown,
Bromont, QC
RV-9A C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
Ian,
That is way too hot. Reduce your climb out angle to 110 which should put
the nose right on the horizon anyway for visibility. Then you need to find
what is needed to cool it down. I went over all my baffle install to find
any leaks or blow by areas. There were a couple of small ones but nothing
major. Then I found in the front where the air inlet ramps are the air
could get around and into the low pressure side. I blocked those off. I
then added the louvers to the bottom and had some more success. To this
point it has been cumulative success to get my climb out temps to around
420. I was never much above 450 and 500 is probably doing damage to your
engine.
My airplane is an RV-6 with O-360 A1A normally aspirated, constant speed
prop. As was previously mentioned, there is lots of reading in the Archives
about this stuff but I would do my best not to let it get that hot any more.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out
Hello List,
I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an overheating
engine. On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will rise to 500 degrees F
briefly and then settle down to about 375 in the cruise. This is on
cylinder # 3, with the other cylinders being 20 degrees or more cooler. The
engine came off a Cessna 172 and runs very well.
The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the area of this
cylinder. (it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
Is this temperature abnormal?
Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to increase
airspeed but I makes it take longer to get to cooler air.
Ian Brown,
Bromont, QC
RV-9A C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
Bart is with Aero Sport Power in Kamloops BC.
1-250-376-6213
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out
I had the same problem with my 0-320 E2D that came out of a Cessna 172. Not
only would the CHTs get dangerously high, but the engine would occasionally
"hic-up". Very scary when you are in the clouds at 8000 feet.
As it turns out, the air intake dynamics in a C172 called for a much leaner
running carb than that needed for the high air flow RV. I want to give
proper credit here, as my help came from Mr. Bart Lalonde (spelling?) from
a British Columbia engine rebuilder whose name escapes me right now...
(Sorry Bart!)
With Bart's help, he shipped me a different carb jet that allows the engine
to run more rich. It only took me a couple of hours of work and the
difference was amazing. Now my CHT's rarely go above 450 even on a hot day.
Plus, the annoying "hic-up" went away.
I hope this helps.
Kim Nicholas
Auburn, WA
RV9A 350 hours.
In a message dated 9/16/2009 6:19:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ixb(at)videotron.ca writes:
Hello List,
I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an overheating
engine. On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will rise to 500 degrees F
briefly and then settle down to about 375 in the cruise. This is on
cylinder # 3, with the other cylinders being 20 degrees or more cooler. The
engine came off a Cessna 172 and runs very well.
The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the area of this
cylinder. (it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
Is this temperature abnormal?
Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to increase
airspeed but I makes it take longer to get to cooler air.
Ian Brown,
Bromont, QC
RV-9A C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
An air dam infront of the #1 cylinder is often needed particularly with the older
baffle kits Mine os about 3/4 " high and runs from the ramp base to cover
the lower edge of the exposed fins on the #1 cylinder head. I had to experiment
several times with the height of the "air dam" until the temperature of the
#1&3 cyliners was balanced.
Dave@RAL
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 16, 2009, at 8:24 AM, "Tim Bryan" wrote:
Ian,
That is way too hot. Reduce your climb out angle to 110 which should put the nose
right on the horizon anyway for visibility. Then you need to find what is
needed to cool it down. I went over all my baffle install to find any leaks
or blow by areas. There were a couple of small ones but nothing major. Then
I found in the front where the air inlet ramps are the air could get around and
into the low pressure side. I blocked those off. I then added the louvers
to the bottom and had some more success. To this point it has been cumulative
success to get my climb out temps to around 420. I was never much above 450
and 500 is probably doing damage to your engine.
My airplane is an RV-6 with O-360 A1A normally aspirated, constant speed prop.
As was previously mentioned, there is lots of reading in the Archives about this
stuff but I would do my best not to let it get that hot any more.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out
Hello List,
I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an overheating engine.
On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will rise to 500 degrees F briefly and
then settle down to about 375 in the cruise. This is on cylinder # 3, with the
other cylinders being 20 degrees or more cooler. The engine came off a Cessna
172 and runs very well.
The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the area of this cylinder.
(it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
Is this temperature abnormal?
Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to increase airspeed
but I makes it take longer to get to cooler air.
Ian Brown,
Bromont, QC
RV-9A C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Veld <jcveld(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | OLD RV-6 stuff for sale |
I'm no longer working on this project and I need to get rid of it!...
in Kalamazoo, MI.
I would prefer to have it picked up as opposed to crating/shipping....
These are from before pre-punched kits..
I have an Old tail kit thats 90% assembled.... but I needed to fix
some stuff that i'm not happy with... $300.00
Partially assembled wing kit with Phlogiston spars... all sheet metal
parts are there, may be a hardware shortage... but i have the control,
fuel, and air line hardware including a flop tube... also have plans/
manual, & some rvators....... asking $1500.00
BOTH KITS $1650.00
It's all been in the basement awhile and needs cleaning up, but it's
all structurally sound....
reply via email jcveld(at)mac.com or phone 269 267-2509..... john
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test |
| From: | Tracy Crook <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com> |
Thanks for all the encouragement guys. Here's an update on the testing.
Been thinking over what to do about the cooling on the 20B rotary powered
RV-8. The indications are that I'm getting too much pressure under the cowl
but that was only a guess. Without doing a number of time consuming
pressure surveys or chopping up the cowl there was no way to be sure it was
not something else like too small oil cooler and radiator, inlet diffusers
not working as well as I had hoped, inlet shape not right (they had very
sharp lips which might be causing separation) or some other unknown.
Time is limited before I leave on vacation and I really needed to know the
answer before I do. So, last night I made the decision to fly the -8 one
more time - This time Without the cowl on. Wish there was someone around to
get a pix, must have looked pretty strange.
Secured anything that might get blown loose with tie wraps and did the
deed. Whoo Hoo! Oil temp 147, coolant temp 161. This on a hot day (92 deg
OAT). With the cowl on, they never went below 200 and hovered around 210
most of the time at low throttle. They went up rapidly with more throttle.
Obvious conclusion is that I need a better path for the air to leave the
cowl. Have read with interest the results of some Lycoming RVs with high
oil temps that fixed the problem with louvers (on bottom?) of cowl. Some
say they worked great, others had less than good results so not sure that is
the answer but ordered a set if nothing else occurs to me.
The airplane felt a little draggier , down about 15 MPH at the low throttle
setting I used for test so this should be a worst case test. The wheel
pants and main gear intersection fairings are also off. Did some brief
full throttle climbs and temps stayed under control, oil never exceeding 160
F. Climb is awesome with a deck angle so high it was uncomfortable. Was
looking hard at temps so did not note the ROC but it was more than anything
else I've flown. My 13B powered RV-4 goes 2500 FPM on a standard day.
Tracy Crook
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Davis <rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | rv-8 Canopy latch |
RV-8 Builders
I have a few of the RV-8 Canopy Latches left. I am unable to
manufacture any more.
When these are gone, these are gone. I would like to close out this
project, so am
offering them at the special close out price of $20 + $2 S&H.
For full details on this device, see http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/
journal/rv8-latch.html
Best regards
Bill Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my two cent
s in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a hot day.
Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair of louvers
in=C2-it as well. =C2-Same results, oil temps went down
dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting the oil tem
ps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work for you.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy Crook <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com> |
Excellent! Direct before & after results with all else being the same is
the best kind of data.
I'd be interested in exactly where you mounted the louvers. I've been
assuming that on an RV-8 they would go on either side of the cooling duct
'trough' on the lower cowl. Is that where you put them? I'm assuming you
used a pair of the Avery type louvers?
I'll be happy to deal with the low temperatures in winter.
Tracy Crook
On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:51 PM, wrote:
> I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my two
> cents in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
>
> high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a hot day.
> Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
>
> an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair of louvers
> in it as well. Same results, oil temps went down
>
> dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting the oil
> temps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
>
> blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
>
>
> So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work for you.
>
>
> Walt
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
Tracy,
Have you seen the stuff on the CAFE web site?
http://cafefoundation.org/v2/main_home.php
Click the 'research' tab, then 'cafe reports', then 'local flow I, II, &
III.
II discusses louvers & 'bluff bodies'.
Charlie
Tracy Crook wrote:
> Excellent! Direct before & after results with all else being the same
> is the best kind of data.
>
> I'd be interested in exactly where you mounted the louvers. I've been
> assuming that on an RV-8 they would go on either side of the cooling
> duct 'trough' on the lower cowl. Is that where you put them? I'm
> assuming you used a pair of the Avery type louvers?
>
> I'll be happy to deal with the low temperatures in winter.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:51 PM, > wrote:
>
> I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my
> two cents in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
>
> high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a
> hot day. Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
>
> an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair
> of louvers in it as well. Same results, oil temps went down
>
> dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting
> the oil temps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
>
> blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
>
>
>
> So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work
> for you.
>
>
>
> Walt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
| From: | jhnstniii(at)aol.com |
Ian--In addition to the other suggested fixes, you may consider moving the upper
ramp in front of #1 forward.??The flow through the inlet in front of #1 is pinched
because the right cylinder bank is forward of the left cylinder bank.?
You'd have to cut it out, trim it, and re-glass it farther forward.? Put your
hand into?each inlet and you will see what I mean.?
LeRoy Johnston/David White?RV6-A "Esperanza" 220 hrs.???
-----Original Message-----
From: Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2009 8:59 am
Subject: RV-List: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out
Hello List,
I have about 45 hours on my RV-9A and I've been tracking an overheating engine.??
On climb out, at about 90kts the CHT will rise to 500 degrees F briefly and
then settle down to about 375 in the cruise.? This is on cylinder # 3, with the
other cylinders being 20 degrees or more cooler.? The engine came off a Cessna
172 and runs very well.
The baffling is standard, and it seals well, especially in the area of this cylinder.?
(it's the simplest area of the baffles to check too).
Is this temperature abnormal?
Does anyone have experience with the same problem?
For the moment I've just been reducing the angle of my climb to increase airspeed
but I makes it take longer to get to cooler air.
Ian Brown,
Bromont, QC
RV-9A C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation |
I'm wading through a whole slew of emails after a trip, so this may be
co vered. But .....
Clean out your shop-vac really good, and hook the hose up to blow, not
suck. Place the hose in the intake and seal with some rags. Turn on
the vacuum (that's now a pump!) and spray liberally around the intake
system with soapy water.
Linn
rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Mike, I'm not sure what you mean by checking for an intake leak. How do
> you go about doing that?
>
>
>
> Walt
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
> To: "rv list"
> Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 10:21:26 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
> Walt,
>
> have you tried checking for an intake leak. It can cause exactly what
> you are talking about.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:56:45 +0000
> From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Hesitation
>
> I have a Lycoming IO-360 in my RV8A which exhibits an engine hesitancy
> or "stumble" that is proving very difficult to diagnose.
> This problem shows up when taxiing back in after a flight, and in an RPM
> range of 750-1300. In flight there is no evidence of a stumble,
> and no stumble at initial start up, taxiing out for take off or during
> run-up. In other words, the engine only exhibits this behavior when it
> is warm.
>
> I have talked to some very knowledgable folks and have tried several
> things: (1) Reset the idle mixture, (2) removed and cleaned the
> servo finger screen, (3) removed the nozzles and placed them in a cup of
> acetone, which was then placed in a sonic cleaner for about
> an hour. After the nozzles were reinstalled, I test flew the plane and
> the stumble was gone. However, a subsequent test flight revealed
> that although the engine was running much smoother, an occasional
> stumble was still there.
>
> Additional facts:
>
> Oil temps are normal (around 180 deg F)
> Compression test is normal (all cylinders mid 70's)
> I'm using a Catto 3 blade prop
>
> Any and all suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley
>
> *
>
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
> 3D============================================
>
> *
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Li/' target='_new'>Sign up now.
>
> *
>
> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Engine Hesitation - Update |
Guys, I really appreciate the outpouring of advice I received concerning my
engine "hesitation" problem. I've been
on this list since 1998 and seen some flame wars that almost consumed us, b
ut somehow we always seem to
get our bearings and get back to providing building advice to those in need
.
To recap, I have an IO-360 B4A engine in my RV8A that exhibits a "hesitatio
n" or "stumble" after taxiing in from
a flight on warm days (doesn't happen in winter). My gut feeling from the b
eginning was that this had to be due
to fuel vaporization, but being unsure, I tried a number of things to corre
ct the problem:
(1) Reset idle mixture
(2) Removed and cleaned injection nozzles in a sonic cleaner
(3) Experimented with tie wrapping insulation on the lines from the flow di
vider
(4) Oiled the fuel selector valve
(5) Cleaned and gapped sparkplugs
(6) Checked for air induction leak using soapy water then starter fluid
None of the above action has corrected the problem, although after celaning
the injectors the stumbles seemed
to occur less often.
Yesterday, as a result of an email by Kevin Horton, I called Don Rivera (re
ally nice guy and very knowledgable) at
Airflow Performance. I described my symptoms and right away he said the fue
l in the flow divider and capillary lines
was boiling due to the lack of adequate airflow under the cowl after landin
g. He recommended I go to=C2- smaller
diameter nozzles which would increase the pressure and reduce the possibili
ty of vaporization. After some
calculation, Don decided on the best size nozzle ( I believe it was .022"),
and I ordered the nozzles ($40/ea).
I should have the new nozzles by tomorrow afternoon or Monday. I'll install
them and let you know how this works
out. I should point out that Don does NOT guarantee the problem will be ent
irely gone. But he said it should
greatly improve engine smoothness. We shall see.......
Thanks again for all your help, guys!
Walt Shipley
Chuckey, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine Hesitation - Update |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
Good news.
Is there an expected trade off? Otherwise why not go with the smaller
from the start?
On 9/17/09, rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>
> Guys, I really appreciate the outpouring of advice I received concerning my
> engine "hesitation" problem. I've been
>
> on this list since 1998 and seen some flame wars that almost consumed us,
> but somehow we always seem to
>
> get our bearings and get back to providing building advice to those in need.
>
>
> To recap, I have an IO-360 B4A engine in my RV8A that exhibits a
> "hesitation" or "stumble" after taxiing in from
>
> a flight on warm days (doesn't happen in winter). My gut feeling from the
> beginning was that this had to be due
>
> to fuel vaporization, but being unsure, I tried a number of things to
> correct the problem:
>
>
> (1) Reset idle mixture
>
> (2) Removed and cleaned injection nozzles in a sonic cleaner
>
> (3) Experimented with tie wrapping insulation on the lines from the flow
> divider
>
> (4) Oiled the fuel selector valve
>
> (5) Cleaned and gapped sparkplugs
>
> (6) Checked for air induction leak using soapy water then starter fluid
>
>
> None of the above action has corrected the problem, although after celaning
> the injectors the stumbles seemed
>
> to occur less often.
>
>
> Yesterday, as a result of an email by Kevin Horton, I called Don Rivera
> (really nice guy and very knowledgable) at
>
> Airflow Performance. I described my symptoms and right away he said the fuel
> in the flow divider and capillary lines
>
> was boiling due to the lack of adequate airflow under the cowl after
> landing. He recommended I go to smaller
>
> diameter nozzles which would increase the pressure and reduce the
> possibility of vaporization. After some
>
> calculation, Don decided on the best size nozzle ( I believe it was .022"),
> and I ordered the nozzles ($40/ea).
>
>
> I should have the new nozzles by tomorrow afternoon or Monday. I'll install
> them and let you know how this works
>
> out. I should point out that Don does NOT guarantee the problem will be
> entirely gone. But he said it should
>
> greatly improve engine smoothness. We shall see.......
>
>
> Thanks again for all your help, guys!
>
>
> Walt Shipley
>
> Chuckey, TN
>
--
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
The sides might be better. I heard a report (I think it was an RV-10) that
had bottom mounted louvers that did not help much but moving to the side
did. The theory was that high AOA on climb pressurized the bottom of the
cowling preventing the louvers from being as effective as they were in level
flight. Something to consider.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Louvers
Excellent! Direct before & after results with all else being the same is
the best kind of data.
I'd be interested in exactly where you mounted the louvers. I've been
assuming that on an RV-8 they would go on either side of the cooling duct
'trough' on the lower cowl. Is that where you put them? I'm assuming you
used a pair of the Avery type louvers?
I'll be happy to deal with the low temperatures in winter.
Tracy Crook
On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:51 PM, wrote:
I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my two cents
in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a hot day.
Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair of louvers
in it as well. Same results, oil temps went down
dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting the oil
temps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work for you.
Walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Danielson <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
I had a problem with higher oil temps back in 2002.
I installed vortex generators at the aft end of the cowl opening.
This did wonders for my oil temp. and have never had any problems since.
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Louvers
Tracy,
Have you seen the stuff on the CAFE web site?
http://cafefoundation.org/v2/main_home.php
Click the 'research' tab, then 'cafe reports', then 'local flow I, II, &
III.
II discusses louvers & 'bluff bodies'.
Charlie
Tracy Crook wrote:
> Excellent! Direct before & after results with all else being the same
> is the best kind of data.
>
> I'd be interested in exactly where you mounted the louvers. I've been
> assuming that on an RV-8 they would go on either side of the cooling
> duct 'trough' on the lower cowl. Is that where you put them? I'm
> assuming you used a pair of the Avery type louvers?
>
> I'll be happy to deal with the low temperatures in winter.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:51 PM, > wrote:
>
> I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my
> two cents in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
>
> high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a
> hot day. Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
>
> an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair
> of louvers in it as well. Same results, oil temps went down
>
> dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting
> the oil temps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
>
> blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
>
>
>
> So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work
> for you.
>
>
>
> Walt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tailgummer(at)aol.com |
Ingenious, John! Did these have any effect on your CHT's?
John D'Onofrio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy Crook <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com> |
I thought the higher pressure on bottom of cowl might be a problem as well.
Latest test would seem to verify that. I keep changing my mind about what
to try first and settled on hinging the -8 cooling exit ramp on the bottom
cowl and make it a movable cowl flap. I cut the ramp out starting about 15
inches in front of the aft edge. Before doing the movable flap I did a
test flight with the big gaping hole (about 13 X 15") in the bottom cowl
just to see what would happen. It ran about 15 degrees cooler than the
stock cowl opening but nothing like the 60 deg. drop I got with the cowl
off.
Checked out the CAFE data that Charlie suggested and have a few ideas from
there I want to try as well.
Tracy
On Thu, Sep 17, 2009 at 2:23 PM, Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com> wrote:
> The sides might be better. I heard a report (I think it was an RV-10)
> that had bottom mounted louvers that did not help much but moving to the
> side did. The theory was that high AOA on climb pressurized the bottom of
> the cowling preventing the louvers from being as effective as they were in
> level flight. Something to consider.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tracy Crook
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 16, 2009 8:17 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Louvers
>
> Excellent! Direct before & after results with all else being the same is
> the best kind of data.
>
> I'd be interested in exactly where you mounted the louvers. I've been
> assuming that on an RV-8 they would go on either side of the cooling duct
> 'trough' on the lower cowl. Is that where you put them? I'm assuming you
> used a pair of the Avery type louvers?
>
> I'll be happy to deal with the low temperatures in winter.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:51 PM, wrote:
>
>> I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my two
>> cents in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
>>
>> high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a hot
>> day. Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
>>
>> an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair of
>> louvers in it as well. Same results, oil temps went down
>>
>> dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting the oil
>> temps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
>>
>> blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
>>
>>
>>
>> So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work for you.
>>
>>
>>
>> Walt
>>
>> **
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
John, could you give some details, maybe pix of those V G's? Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 14:22
Subject: RE: RV-List: Louvers
I had a problem with higher oil temps back in 2002.
I installed vortex generators at the aft end of the cowl opening.
This did wonders for my oil temp. and have never had any problems since.
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Louvers
Tracy,
Have you seen the stuff on the CAFE web site?
http://cafefoundation.org/v2/main_home.php
Click the 'research' tab, then 'cafe reports', then 'local flow I, II, &
III.
II discusses louvers & 'bluff bodies'.
Charlie
Tracy Crook wrote:
> Excellent! Direct before & after results with all else being the same
> is the best kind of data.
>
> I'd be interested in exactly where you mounted the louvers. I've been
> assuming that on an RV-8 they would go on either side of the cooling
> duct 'trough' on the lower cowl. Is that where you put them? I'm
> assuming you used a pair of the Avery type louvers?
>
> I'll be happy to deal with the low temperatures in winter.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:51 PM, > wrote:
>
> I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my
> two cents in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
>
> high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a
> hot day. Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
>
> an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair
> of louvers in it as well. Same results, oil temps went down
>
> dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting
> the oil temps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
>
> blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
>
>
> So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work
> for you.
>
>
> Walt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Woodward vs McCauley Governor Height |
Does anybody know if the Woodward governor is shorter than the McCauley governor?
I've got a McCauley on my IO-390 and was doing the left front floor baffle
last night and with the cutout for the governor, there isn't enough room for
the big, square fiberglass intake hole between the governor and the left sidewall.
Its something like 1/4" to 1/2" too narrow and that *doesn't* take into
account any mounting flange space. I'm wondering if the Woodward governor is
shorter by a 1/2" or so which will make this all work. Basically, I don't see
how I'm going to get the McCauley to work at this point.
Anybody have any height specs on the Woodward governor? Basically from the boss
mount to the top of the arm would be helpful.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Danielson <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
As I recall, they did not have any effect on the CHT's, but I could be wron
g.
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Tailgummer(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Louvers
Ingenious, John! Did these have any effect on your CHT's?
John D'Onofrio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Danielson <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
I am sorry I don't have a photo.
All that I did was take some left over 0.020 aluminum angle and cut it about 1.25"
long with an angle cut on one side.
I placed these at the aft end of the cowl (right before the exhaust) at about a
45 deg angle, about 1/2" apart at the leading edge of the vortex generators.
I only placed a total of 4 of these on the bottom of the cowl.
Looks like:
Aft end of cowl
_______________________
\ / \ /
\ / \ /
Hope this helps.
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of charlie heathco
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Louvers
John, could you give some details, maybe pix of those V G's? Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Danielson" <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 14:22
Subject: RE: RV-List: Louvers
I had a problem with higher oil temps back in 2002.
I installed vortex generators at the aft end of the cowl opening.
This did wonders for my oil temp. and have never had any problems since.
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Louvers
Tracy,
Have you seen the stuff on the CAFE web site?
http://cafefoundation.org/v2/main_home.php
Click the 'research' tab, then 'cafe reports', then 'local flow I, II, &
III.
II discusses louvers & 'bluff bodies'.
Charlie
Tracy Crook wrote:
> Excellent! Direct before & after results with all else being the same
> is the best kind of data.
>
> I'd be interested in exactly where you mounted the louvers. I've been
> assuming that on an RV-8 they would go on either side of the cooling
> duct 'trough' on the lower cowl. Is that where you put them? I'm
> assuming you used a pair of the Avery type louvers?
>
> I'll be happy to deal with the low temperatures in winter.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
> On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 8:51 PM, > wrote:
>
> I guess I started the latest thread on louvers, so let me throw my
> two cents in: I installed them on my 8A after experiencing
>
> high oil temps. Prior to the louvers, I was running 225 or so on a
> hot day. Now, I rarely see in excess of 190. So, then I built
>
> an RV8 and having similar temperature issues, I installed a pair
> of louvers in it as well. Same results, oil temps went down
>
> dramatically. The only problem with both the planes was getting
> the oil temps HIGH enough in winter (I solved that by making
>
> blanks to install between the inside of the cowl and the louvers).
>
>
> So, I can only say what worked for me. Maybe louvers won't work
> for you.
>
>
> Walt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | IO-360 Snorkel Induction Installation Plans... |
Dear Listers,
I must just be totally missing it, but I've gone through all of my prints twice
now and I cannot find anywhere where the installation of the Induction Snorkel
for the horizontal intake is described or even shown. I'm guessing its got
to be an "OP" drawing of some sort. I would also assume that there would be some
written instructions, but I'm not finding these either.
I'm just not sure what I'm looking for at this point. Can somebody help a brother
out...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Snorkel Induction Installation Plans... |
At 07:55 PM 9/18/2009 Friday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I must just be totally missing it, but I've gone through all of my prints twice
now and I cannot find anywhere where the installation of the Induction Snorkel
for the horizontal intake is described or even shown. I'm guessing its got
to be an "OP" drawing of some sort. I would also assume that there would be
some written instructions, but I'm not finding these either.
>
>I'm just not sure what I'm looking for at this point. Can somebody help a brother
out...
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>Engine Baffling...
Ah, can I get a "what, what!?"... All of the goodies were tucked inside of the
K&N filter box that comes with the FAB-HORIZ INDUCTION-1 kit including the plans,
instructions, and all the bits and pieces! Those Van's shipping people must
be squirrels... $205 for a replacement snorkel I just noticed in the Van's
catalog; guess I'd better do this right the first time...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
There's a REASON they call it "engine BAFFLING"...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: IO-360 Snorkel Induction Installation Plans... |
Matt,
I think you are correct in assuming it is an OP drawing for the horizontal induction.
I don't recall ever seeing plans for anything except the vertical induction.
I suppose it is time to call Van's
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Dralle
Date: Friday, September 18, 2009 11:06 pm
Subject: RV-List: IO-360 Snorkel Induction Installation Plans...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I must just be totally missing it, but I've gone through all of
> my prints twice now and I cannot find anywhere where the
> installation of the Induction Snorkel for the horizontal intake
> is described or even shown. I'm guessing its got to be an "OP"
> drawing of some sort. I would also assume that there would be
> some written instructions, but I'm not finding these either.
>
> I'm just not sure what I'm looking for at this point. Can
> somebody help a brother out...
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> Engine Baffling...
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
Dear Listers,
Van's turned me on to a bracket for the RV-10 called the CB-1002-H which is a bracket
for mounting the governor control cable on front mounted governors.
Does anyone have some good pictures of how this bracket is installed? Maybe even
a scan of the baffling installation OP sheet where the RV-10 baffling is described?
Since the IO-390 has a front mounted governor similar to the IO-540 used on the
RV-10, some of these baffling pieces seem to work.
Any docs you could provide would be most appreciated!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: O-320 Overheating on Climb Out |
| From: | "camdaddy" <proscllc(at)yahoo.com> |
I've got a Lycoming manual that states 460 is the absolute hottest CHTs should
ever be. I've had the same high temps on my 0-320 E2D #3 during hard climbs.
Never higher than 435, but I like to keep it below 400 and can easily do that
in cruise or by step climbing carefully.
Dave Anders has done extensive work regarding this. One of the main issues here
is the inside-the-cowl downstream air flow. I have my heater muff and scat
tubing blocking clean exit flow out of the cowl. I will soon clean this up and
expect good results from that.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263803#263803
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Loop problem |
| From: | "camdaddy" <proscllc(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey, Charlie. I wonder how your loops have been progressing?
When I got my first acro training in an Extra 300L, the military instructors drilled
into me to get a feel in my butt for 3 and 4 Gs. In a couple days I knew
what they meant and could sense when I was loading the plane to those levels.
In my RV that feeling was a little different and I had to re-learn what 3Gs and
4Gs felt like. Now, that along with a sense for the elapsed time I'm taking
to get to the top lets me know how the loop will look.
I also placed a piece of pinstripe tape on the inside of my canopy at eye level
on my left to act as my horizon marker. It's not as good as a wingtip sighting
device, but it's a good low-tech solution that's better than nothing. Once
I lose sight of the horizon up front, I turn my head left to watch my wing.
The tape will tell me when I'm nearing the top and it's time to look "up" and
unload the plane.
One other thing I did that helped me... I did a bunch of Split- Ss. I would slow
the plane to just above stall speed, roll it over, and pull a Split-S. This
gave me a good feel for how my loops would finish.
-Cam
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263805#263805
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gear lef fairing scribe lines |
| From: | "bcollinsmn" <bob(at)rvbuildershotline.com> |
Waiting for the skim coat on the last of my emp fairings (top of the rudder, pictures here - http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/2009/09/few-tips.html) to cure, I figured I'd start working on the gear leg fairings. Winter is coming and fiberglass epoxy and 10 below temps don't work so well in an unheated hangar.
As usual, I ran into a problem right at the beginning. It references cutting out
the template and using the molded scribe line to locate it on the fairing.
For the life of me, I cannot find anything on either of the gear leg fairings that
looks like a scribe line.
What's the secret here?
Bob Collins
RV-7A
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A - Running wires
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job: http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263879#263879
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear lef fairing scribe lines |
| From: | peter laurence <peterlaurence6(at)gmail.com> |
Bob,
I just did the gear led fairings for a friend's RV7A.No scribe lines that I
could see!
Peter Laurence
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 7:12 PM, bcollinsmn wrote:
>
> Waiting for the skim coat on the last of my emp fairings (top of the
> rudder, pictures here -
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/2009/09/few-tips.html) to cure, I figured
> I'd start working on the gear leg fairings. Winter is coming and fiberglass
> epoxy and 10 below temps don't work so well in an unheated hangar.
>
> As usual, I ran into a problem right at the beginning. It references
> cutting out the template and using the molded scribe line to locate it on
> the fairing.
>
> For the life of me, I cannot find anything on either of the gear leg
> fairings that looks like a scribe line.
>
> What's the secret here?
>
> Bob Collins
> RV-7A
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> RV-7A - Running wires
> http://rvbuildershotline.com
> Day job:
> http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263879#263879
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: Gear lef fairing scribe lines |
>From what I remember when I did this, the scribe lines were nearly invisible.
They were there but very fine and almost impossible to see.
Bob Bales
RV6
N954RB
----- Original Message -----
From: bcollinsmn
Date: Saturday, September 19, 2009 7:20 pm
Subject: RV-List: Gear lef fairing scribe lines
>
> Waiting for the skim coat on the last of my emp fairings (top of
> the rudder, pictures here -
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/2009/09/few-tips.html) to cure,
> I figured I'd start working on the gear leg fairings. Winter is
> coming and fiberglass epoxy and 10 below temps don't work so
> well in an unheated hangar.
>
> As usual, I ran into a problem right at the beginning. It
> references cutting out the template and using the molded scribe
> line to locate it on the fairing.
>
> For the life of me, I cannot find anything on either of the gear
> leg fairings that looks like a scribe line.
>
> What's the secret here?
>
> Bob Collins
> RV-7A
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> RV-7A - Running wires
> http://rvbuildershotline.com
> Day job:
> http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263879#263879
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Gear lef fairing scribe lines |
Did you use the templates on DWG C3 ( I think it was C3, might've been
C2).
Apparently you line it up with a scribe line, find the line for your
model,
and use that to trim.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of peter laurence
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear lef fairing scribe lines
Bob,
I just did the gear led fairings for a friend's RV7A.No scribe lines
that I
could see!
Peter Laurence
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 7:12 PM, bcollinsmn
wrote:
Waiting for the skim coat on the last of my emp fairings (top of the
rudder,
pictures here - http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/2009/09/few-tips.html)
to
cure, I figured I'd start working on the gear leg fairings. Winter is
coming
and fiberglass epoxy and 10 below temps don't work so well in an
unheated
hangar.
As usual, I ran into a problem right at the beginning. It references
cutting
out the template and using the molded scribe line to locate it on the
fairing.
For the life of me, I cannot find anything on either of the gear leg
fairings that looks like a scribe line.
What's the secret here?
Bob Collins
RV-7A
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
RV-7A - Running wires
http://rvbuildershotline.com
Day job:
http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263879#263879
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Gear lef fairing scribe lines |
Bob, I scratched my head on this too. I ended up just centering the paper
template on the fairings (end to end) and cut both ends to the template.
Mine turned out great.
BTW, not sure if you are using Van's intersection fairings but I bought the
fairings from Fairings Etc. and they were perfect!
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6n(at)optonline.net
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear lef fairing scribe lines
>From what I remember when I did this, the scribe lines were nearly
invisible. They were there but very fine and almost impossible to see.
Bob Bales
RV6
N954RB
----- Original Message -----
From: bcollinsmn
Date: Saturday, September 19, 2009 7:20 pm
Subject: RV-List: Gear lef fairing scribe lines
>
> Waiting for the skim coat on the last of my emp fairings (top of
> the rudder, pictures here -
> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/2009/09/few-tips.html) to cure,
> I figured I'd start working on the gear leg fairings. Winter is
> coming and fiberglass epoxy and 10 below temps don't work so
> well in an unheated hangar.
>
> As usual, I ran into a problem right at the beginning. It
> references cutting out the template and using the molded scribe
> line to locate it on the fairing.
>
> For the life of me, I cannot find anything on either of the gear
> leg fairings that looks like a scribe line.
>
> What's the secret here?
>
> Bob Collins
> RV-7A
>
> --------
> Bob Collins
> St. Paul, Minn.
> RV-7A - Running wires
> http://rvbuildershotline.com
> Day job:
> http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263879#263879
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Jefferson City MO fly-in |
8:00 AM - 5:00 PM 09/26/09
The Jefferson City Airport Fly-in on Sept. 26 is a wonderful event for
pilots and families in the Missouri region!
Free pancake breakfast from 8:00-9:30, followed by free flights for kids,
weather and interest permitting (Young Eagles program, ages 8-17).
Contact: Bill Elliott, EAA Chapter 429 Pres. | myotis(at)embarqmail.com
<http://www.flyincalendar.com/link.cfm?mailto:myotis@embarqmail.com> |
573-291-5093
http://eaa429.org/
<http://www.flyincalendar.com/link.cfm?http://eaa429.org/>
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Loop problem |
Thanks for the pointers Cam. It has been raining here most every day past 2
wks, havent been up. Im suprised to hear that the plane will roll going that
slow, would seem like could easily slip into a spin. Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: "camdaddy" <proscllc(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 07:42
Subject: RV-List: Re: Loop problem
Hey, Charlie. I wonder how your loops have been progressing?
When I got my first acro training in an Extra 300L, the military instructors
drilled into me to get a feel in my butt for 3 and 4 Gs. In a couple days I
knew what they meant and could sense when I was loading the plane to those
levels.
In my RV that feeling was a little different and I had to re-learn what 3Gs
and 4Gs felt like. Now, that along with a sense for the elapsed time I'm
taking to get to the top lets me know how the loop will look.
I also placed a piece of pinstripe tape on the inside of my canopy at eye
level on my left to act as my horizon marker. It's not as good as a wingtip
sighting device, but it's a good low-tech solution that's better than
nothing. Once I lose sight of the horizon up front, I turn my head left to
watch my wing. The tape will tell me when I'm nearing the top and it's time
to look "up" and unload the plane.
One other thing I did that helped me... I did a bunch of Split- Ss. I would
slow the plane to just above stall speed, roll it over, and pull a Split-S.
This gave me a good feel for how my loops would finish.
-Cam
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263805#263805
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear lef fairing scribe lines |
| From: | peter laurence <peterlaurence6(at)gmail.com> |
I cut the template and positioned it were I thought it should go. However,
there are six RVs within a few hundred feet of my hanger, and I was able to
pull the pants and intersection fairings off and make a few measurements.
Peter
On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 8:34 PM, Bob Collins wrote:
> Did you use the templates on DWG C3 ( I think it was C3, might've been
> C2). Apparently you line it up with a scribe line, find the line for your
> model, and use that to trim.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *peter laurence
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 19, 2009 6:58 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Gear lef fairing scribe lines
>
> Bob,
> I just did the gear led fairings for a friend's RV7A.No scribe lines that I
> could see!
>
> Peter Laurence
>
> On Sat, Sep 19, 2009 at 7:12 PM, bcollinsmn wrote:
>
>>
>> Waiting for the skim coat on the last of my emp fairings (top of the
>> rudder, pictures here -
>> http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/2009/09/few-tips.html) to cure, I
>> figured I'd start working on the gear leg fairings. Winter is coming and
>> fiberglass epoxy and 10 below temps don't work so well in an unheated
>> hangar.
>>
>> As usual, I ran into a problem right at the beginning. It references
>> cutting out the template and using the molded scribe line to locate it on
>> the fairing.
>>
>> For the life of me, I cannot find anything on either of the gear leg
>> fairings that looks like a scribe line.
>>
>> What's the secret here?
>>
>> Bob Collins
>> RV-7A
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Collins
>> St. Paul, Minn.
>> RV-7A - Running wires
>> http://rvbuildershotline.com
>> Day job:
>> http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263879#263879
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Loop problem |
| From: | "camdaddy" <proscllc(at)yahoo.com> |
It will roll over just fine. It's slow... kinda wallows over, but not bad. Don't
let it get too slow and it CAN'T spin b/c for a spin to happen it needs yaw
to couple with the stall. Keep the bubble centered and the plane unloaded (stick-wise,
I mean, not cargo-wise)... you'll be fine.
In fact, I have to really work to get my -4 to spin. It will do it, but I have
to hold pro-spin inputs for awhile. Once it spins and I am done, I give the
PARE recovery inputs and it pops right out without hesitation. Even with a back
seat passenger. The side-by-side RVs I've flown seem to want to spin easier
than the -4s I've flown. But I wouldn't be concerned about them being "stubborn"
in the spin.
But do only what you're comfortable with and listen to that all-important "little
voice". ...and keep me posted.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263915#263915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Loop problem |
Ok, I am itchi8ng to get up, maybe a window some time tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: "camdaddy" <proscllc(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 21:47
Subject: RV-List: Re: Loop problem
It will roll over just fine. It's slow... kinda wallows over, but not bad.
Don't let it get too slow and it CAN'T spin b/c for a spin to happen it
needs yaw to couple with the stall. Keep the bubble centered and the plane
unloaded (stick-wise, I mean, not cargo-wise)... you'll be fine.
In fact, I have to really work to get my -4 to spin. It will do it, but I
have to hold pro-spin inputs for awhile. Once it spins and I am done, I
give the PARE recovery inputs and it pops right out without hesitation.
Even with a back seat passenger. The side-by-side RVs I've flown seem to
want to spin easier than the -4s I've flown. But I wouldn't be concerned
about them being "stubborn" in the spin.
But do only what you're comfortable with and listen to that all-important
"little voice". ...and keep me posted.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263915#263915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Loop problem |
I would suggest at least a starting altitude of 4,000 AGL for your
introductory split S. 5,000 ft would be even safer.
Dale
RV6a 1230 hrs GRT S200 0-360 Hartzell
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of charlie heathco
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Loop problem
Ok, I am itchi8ng to get up, maybe a window some time tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: "camdaddy" <proscllc(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 21:47
Subject: RV-List: Re: Loop problem
It will roll over just fine. It's slow... kinda wallows over, but not bad.
Don't let it get too slow and it CAN'T spin b/c for a spin to happen it
needs yaw to couple with the stall. Keep the bubble centered and the plane
unloaded (stick-wise, I mean, not cargo-wise)... you'll be fine.
In fact, I have to really work to get my -4 to spin. It will do it, but I
have to hold pro-spin inputs for awhile. Once it spins and I am done, I
give the PARE recovery inputs and it pops right out without hesitation.
Even with a back seat passenger. The side-by-side RVs I've flown seem to
want to spin easier than the -4s I've flown. But I wouldn't be concerned
about them being "stubborn" in the spin.
But do only what you're comfortable with and listen to that all-important
"little voice". ...and keep me posted.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263915#263915
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Loop problem |
| From: | jvanlaak(at)aol.com |
Two suggestions:
First, you may find that making a level, coordinated roll just above stall is actually
quite difficult.??Instead, consider?starting at a more "normal" speed
like 80 and lifting the nose 20 degrees before rolling you end up with the same
condition - inverted at about 60 - with more control authority and less adverse
yaw.? The nose wants to fall quickly at low speeds even when "unloaded" especially
as you go through knife edge.? Raising the nose give you the room for
that to occur before seeing the horizon inverted to confirm you in fact got through
180 degrees of roll.? Otherwise you could find the windshield full of ground
and no idea how far you rolled and what direction is the shortest one to
right side up.
Second, pay attention to CG.? One of the most common mistakes in aviation is to
neglect the effect of cg on stalling and spinning characteristics.? When you
read somebody telling how hard a Cessna 172 is to stall you see that they only
attempt the maneuver with the back seat empty (I think by POH restriction).?
But if they happened to inadvertently stall with the seats and baggage area full
they would find an entirely different result.? In the case of RVs, the empty
CGs vary wildly depending on engine and especially prop (a CSP versus wood prop
is huge) and of course the tandems can change greatly with who is sitting
where.
Explore spinning and other new maneuvers with a forward CG and lots of altitude.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: charlie heathco <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 19, 2009 11:47 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Loop problem
Ok, I am itchi8ng to get up, maybe a window some time tomorrow
----- Original Message -----
From: "camdaddy" <proscllc(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 21:47
Subject: RV-List: Re: Loop problem
It will roll over just fine. It's slow... kinda wallows over, but not bad.
Don't let it get too slow and it CAN'T spin b/c for a spin to happen it
needs yaw to couple with the stall. Keep the bubble centered and the plane
unloaded (stick-wise, I mean, not cargo-wise)... you'll be fine.
In fact, I have to really work to get my -4 to spin. It will do it, but I
have to hold pro-spin inputs for awhile. Once it spins and I am done, I
give the PARE recovery inputs and it pops right out without hesitation.
Even with a back seat passenger. The side-by-side RVs I've flown seem to
want to spin easier than the -4s I've flown. But I wouldn't be concerned
about them being "stubborn" in the spin.
But do only what you're comfortable with and listen to that all-important
"little voice". ...and keep me posted.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=263915#263915
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...? |
Thank you for the info, Bill.
Looks like the McCauley governor is over 1" taller than the PCU5000. That would
explain why I've been having issues with interference with the intake. I came
up with a bracket yesterday after 5 tries that seems to work pretty well.
On the good side, I'm now getting full throw on the governor and there is no binding
whatsoever. In fact, its so free that the spring always pulls it to High
RPM setting if I don't have the drag-lock on the throttle quadrant at least
a little tight. Both of these are improvements over the Van's bracket. On the
downside, the pushrod is just barely clearing the intake's upper inboard corner.
I haven't actually mounted the intake yet, so its still too soon to tell
the full impact.
Speaking of the intake, when I push it into place, its bumping into the main mounting
screw busing on the alternator. I've got the standard 60a internally regulated
unit from Van's. I'm estimating that I'm going to have to put about
a 1/4" deep "channel" into the top right side of the fiberglass intake to get
it to fit up onto the throttle body. I wonder what impact that will have on the
designed "airflow" of the intake...? There is also a strut that came with
the alternator that goes from the front of the alternator bracket to a mounting
ear on the starter. There's no way this will fit on with the fiberglass intake
in place. I wonder if I can leave it off? I've got the Skytec Inline starter
and I already had to cut one of the unused lower mounting ears off of it
because it completely interfered with the intake.
Man, there sure are a lot of "issues" getting the front part of this IO-390 installed...
Is it really that much different in the front than the IO-360? I've
read a couple of places where the IO-390 is "a bolt in replacement for the IO-360".
Well, yeah, it bolts on, but the front mounted governor and slightly
different placement of the alternator and starter make for a lot of custom modifications.
Buyer beware.
I'll post some pictures of my governor bracket later today if I decide its really
going to work.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling and Intake...
At 06:46 PM 9/19/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>Hello Matt,
>
>
>
>The dimensions are indicated in the in the link below. It took three attempts
to get the correct prop governor drive ratio and you can certainly use my name
to get specs from the latest unit they shipped to me -- excellent folks to deal
with. I purchased the governor from Aero Technoligies for $1235...will provide
a scanned invoice detailing P/N & S/N, if interested. A friend with a recently
first-light RV-7A (BPE 390) purchased a governor from same source (& price)
-- no issues whatsoever using.
>
><http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x_spec.pdf>http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x_spec.pdf
>
>As for using stainless steel bracket...it was the strongest with the least weight
and no drawing was produced. It was trial & error method when it came to deciding
where to drill the holes -- will explain further should you wish to discuss...913-271-0988.
>
>I hope you found the info on Marc's site helpfull as he really hopes that the
info will be helpful to other 390 owners. BTW, I really love this engine...very
smooth, powerful and FAST. You will be very happy. Allen has several hours in
my plane and hopefully provided his experience.
>
>Have a great weekend,
>
>Bill
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To: rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 12:24:29 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
>Subject: RV7-List: Re: CB-1002-H Governor Bracket Installation Photos...?
>
>--> RV7-List message posted by: "Matt Dralle"
>
>Hi Bill,
>
>Do you have a 3D drawing of the bracket you made? Why did you choose steel instead
of aluminum?
>
>Your governor looks a lot shorter than the McCauley. Do you have a 3D drawing
of it, by chance? What is the exact model number? What's the height from the
boss to the control arm? Where'd you get it from?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com
>
>
>wgill10(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> Hello Matt,
>>
>> I didn't use this bracket...made my own. If interested, Go to Marc's site (www.IO-390.com (http://www.IO-390.com)) and see what I did for the governor bracket and front baffles for the front mounted governor pad. Additionally, I could send some higher resolution pictures...just let me know. I have NEVER had any high temp issues...a very fast airplane as well.
>>
>> FAB Air box: http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/AFP_Servo.html (http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/AFP_Servo.html)
>> Prop Gov Cable/bracket: http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Prop_Gov.html (http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Prop_Gov.html)
>> Baffles: http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Baffles_2.html (http://www.io-390.com/IO-390.com/Baffles_2.html)
>>
>> Good luck,
>>
>> Bill
>> RV-7 N151WP
>> BPE IO-390 w/AFP
>>
>>
>> ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor... |
I just discovered something very interesting. The gear ratio is different between
a Front mounted governor and a Rear mounted governor - .947 to 1 (front) vs.
.866 to 1 (rear). So that means that the McCauley governor that I have that
I originally purchased for use with and O-360 won't even work with the IO-390.
This page from the PCU5000 web site is very informative:
http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x.htm
It details the various ratios and what not.
I also found a PDF on the dimensions of the MT governor that Van's sells:
http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/manuals/e-1048.pdf
This MT governor is also 1" shorter than the McCauley governor similar to the PCU5000:
http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x_spec.pdf
In this picture of the PCU5000:
http://www.pcu5000.com/index_i/hmpg_pic.gif
the PCU5000 shows an auxiliary control arm that might be very helpful in pushing
the control cable out of the way of the fiberglass intake. Although, I think
that just moving the control arm in by 1" compared to the McCauley is going
to be plenty.
At any rate, I've ordered a PCU5000X number "P-520-029/A-947" for my RV-8/IO-390
combination so hopefully I can move forward on this project...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Engine Baffling...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Matching Powder Coating on Van's product |
Listers,
Does anyone have a spray can or two of Cardinal A-4108-GR230 the don't need
and would be interested in selling? It appears I'd have to purchase 12
cans from Cardinal which is way more than I need. The touch-up from Van's is
not sufficient for my needs. Alternatively, does anyone know of another
paint source that might be a close match to the color?
Marty in Nashville TN
RV-6A about done painting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
This is for the guys that are as cheap as me (I won't pay for the local
channels on satellite).
Many years ago Kevin Horton clued me in on the need for a raised static
port on the 1st RV that I owned. I was able to add it to the existing
a/c by cutting the head off an aluminum pop rivet & gluing it over the
existing flush port. For the -7, I took a look at some 3/16" pop rivets
I have on hand. The diameter works for 1/4" polyethylene tubing, but I
didn't like the size of the hole with after the stem was removed. (We've
got mud daubers here in MS that will plug virtually any size opening.)
So, I dug through a jar of random 'floor sweeping' rivets I acquired
somewhere. A universal head 3/16" looked good, if I could get a hole
through the center. My neighbor has a lathe, but I decided to try my
drill press 1st. I used a 1/16" bit & put the rivet in block with a hole
just bigger than its shank. A little Boelube & taking my time got me a
hole through the middle of the rivet. I did have to hold the rivet head
with my fingers to keep it from spinning. (Professional Scrounger at
work; don't try this at home, etc) The item in the photo is my
prototype; the working article is a bit longer to better hold the tubing.
Oh, and by using a bit of carefully applied heat from a heat gun, you
can put a 90 degree bend in polyethylene tubing to get it heading in the
right direction after it leaves the rivet.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matching Powder Coating on Van's product |
Vans color match (light grey powdercoat) is a srandard color from PPG
- DCC92783 Pearl Gray
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2009, at 8:59 PM, "emrath" wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Does anyone have a spray can or two of Cardinal A-4108-GR230 the
> don't need
> and would be interested in selling? It appears I'd have to
> purchase 12
> cans from Cardinal which is way more than I need. The touch-up from
> Van's is
> not sufficient for my needs. Alternatively, does anyone know of
> another
> paint source that might be a close match to the color?
>
> Marty in Nashville TN
> RV-6A about done painting.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Painting The Baffling... |
Dear Listers,
I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces in keeping
with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing that the
pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra fitting that's
necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run through a surfacer first
because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is really going to
look.
I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat required
can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling? Its not
really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what effects will
the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's probably a high-temp
power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing temp, and that
get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph... Power coating the
baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can you chrome
2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matching Powder Coating on Van's product |
Tractor Supply Co. Ford Tractor Gray matched very nicely for me, they sell it
in a rattle can.
Darrell
--- On Sun, 9/20/09, emrath wrote:
> From: emrath <emrath(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Matching Powder Coating on Van's product
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, September 20, 2009, 7:59 PM
> "emrath"
>
> Listers,
> Does anyone have a spray can or two of Cardinal
> A-4108-GR230 the don't need
> and would be interested in selling? It appears
> I'd have to purchase 12
> cans from Cardinal which is way more than I need. The
> touch-up from Van's is
> not sufficient for my needs. Alternatively, does
> anyone know of another
> paint source that might be a close match to the color?
>
> Marty in Nashville TN
> RV-6A about done painting.
>
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hadley Heinrichs <rvhad(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test |
Tracy,
you might want to use a cowl flap to pull more air out...look on the EGG site for
specs. the volume of air increased by 80%, brought the numbers down if i recall
properly.
cheers,
Had
________________________________
From: Tracy Crook <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 3:41:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test
Thanks for all the encouragement guys. Here's an update on the testing.
Been thinking over what to do about the cooling on the 20B rotary
powered RV-8. The indications are that I'm getting too much pressure
under the cowl but that was only a guess. Without doing a number of
time consuming pressure surveys or chopping up the cowl there was no
way to be sure it was not something else like too small oil cooler and
radiator, inlet diffusers not working as well as I had hoped, inlet
shape not right (they had very sharp lips which might be causing
separation) or some other unknown.
Time is limited before I leave on vacation and I really needed to know
the answer before I do. So, last night I made the decision to fly the
-8 one more time - This time Without the cowl on. Wish there was someone around
to get a pix, must have looked pretty strange.
Secured anything that might get blown loose with tie wraps and did the
deed. Whoo Hoo! Oil temp 147, coolant temp 161. This on a hot day (92
deg OAT). With the cowl on, they never went below 200 and hovered around 210 most
of the time at low throttle. They went up rapidly with more throttle.
Obvious conclusion is that I need a better path for the air
to leave the cowl. Have read with interest the results of some
Lycoming RVs with high oil temps that fixed the problem with louvers (on
bottom?) of cowl. Some say they worked great, others had less than good
results so not sure that is the answer but ordered a set if nothing
else occurs to me.
The airplane felt a little draggier , down about 15 MPH at the low
throttle setting I used for test so this should be a worst case test.
The wheel pants and main gear intersection fairings are also off. Did
some brief full throttle climbs and temps stayed under control, oil
never exceeding 160 F. Climb is awesome with a deck angle so high it
was uncomfortable. Was looking hard at temps so did not note the ROC
but it was more than anything else I've flown. My 13B powered RV-4
goes 2500 FPM on a standard day.
Tracy Crook
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wgill10(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor... |
Hello Matt,
I installed the offset arm as well, but found that I needed an additional 0
.5 inch offset -- fabicated from .5 inch aluminum stock. You might find the
attached photos helpful.
Best regards,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 2:03:30 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: RV-List: Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor...
I just discovered something very interesting. =C2-The gear ratio is diffe
rent between a Front mounted governor and a Rear mounted governor - .947 to
1 (front) vs. .866 to 1 (rear). =C2-So that means that the McCauley gove
rnor that I have that I originally purchased for use with and O-360 won't e
ven work with the IO-390. =C2-This page from the PCU5000 web site is very
informative:
=C2-=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x.htm
It details the various ratios and what not.
I also found a PDF on the dimensions of the MT governor that Van's sells:
=C2-=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-http://www.mt-propeller.com/pdf/manuals/e-
1048.pdf
This MT governor is also 1" shorter than the McCauley governor similar to t
he PCU5000:
=C2-=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x_spec.pdf
In this picture of the PCU5000:
=C2-=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-http://www.pcu5000.com/index_i/hmpg_pic.gi
f
the PCU5000 shows an auxiliary control arm that might be very helpful in pu
shing the control cable out of the way of the fiberglass intake. =C2-Alth
ough, I think that just moving the control arm in by 1" compared to the McC
auley is going to be plenty.
At any rate, I've ordered a PCU5000X number "P-520-029/A-947" for my RV-8/I
O-390 combination so hopefully I can move forward on this project...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Engine Baffling...
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
Matt,
Due to the weather the baffling sees I chose to use paint. With an eye
towards keeping weigh down I put on just enough to cover.
Aside from the heating issue powder coating tend to be thicker than spay
paint. Also I think the spray paint can be touched up easier.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
;
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 8:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Painting The Baffling...
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces
> in keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing
> that the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra
> fitting that's necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run
> through a surfacer first because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good
> anodizing is really going to look.
>
> I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat
> required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling?
> Its not really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what
> effects will the engine compartment heat have on the power coating?
> There's probably a high-temp power coat, but it would likely require a
> higher curing temp, and that get's us back to the first sentence of this
> paragraph... Power coating the baffling would definitely look pretty
> cool.
>
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can
> you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
>
> Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com
> FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
>
>
> Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.090).
> http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.0.0.19 - 10.004.090).
http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard McBride <rick.mcbride(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
Matt,
I powder coated the baffling on my -8 and after 500 hours and five
years have had absolutely no problem. I don't recall but I'm pretty
sure it was not a high-temp coating.
Rick McBride
On Sep 20, 2009, at 11:02 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling
> pieces in keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But
> I'm noticing that the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during
> all of this extra fitting that's necessary for the IO-390. Since
> the pieces can't be run through a surfacer first because of the
> bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is really going to look.
>
> I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the
> curing heat required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter
> for the baffling? Its not really structural, per say. And if power
> coating is alright, what effects will the engine compartment heat
> have on the power coating? There's probably a high-temp power coat,
> but it would likely require a higher curing temp, and that get's us
> back to the first sentence of this paragraph... Power coating the
> baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
>
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super
> cool. Can you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to
> power coating?
>
> Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com
> FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
| From: | peter laurence <peterlaurence6(at)gmail.com> |
Matt,
My two cents.
If you really need to paint---
I would etch, chromic convert ( "Alodine"). Shoot a two part epoxy primer,
and paint.
You did do this for the whole plane did you not?
This should be good for 2000 Hours.
Peter
> Dear Listers,
>
> I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces
> in keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing
> that the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra
> fitting that's necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run
> through a surfacer first because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good
> anodizing is really going to look.
>
> I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat
> required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling?
> Its not really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what
> effects will the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's
> probably a high-temp power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing
> temp, and that get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph...
> Power coating the baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
>
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can
> you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
>
> Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com
> FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matching Powder Coating on Van's product |
| From: | Marty Santic <marty.santic(at)gmail.com> |
It is also listed as an item in Van's Accessories Catalog.
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 9:16 PM, Michael Kraus
wrote:
>
> Vans color match (light grey powdercoat) is a srandard color from PPG -
> DCC92783 Pearl Gray
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 20, 2009, at 8:59 PM, "emrath" wrote:
>
>>
>> Listers,
>> Does anyone have a spray can or two of Cardinal A-4108-GR230 the don't
>> need
>> and would be interested in selling? It appears I'd have to purchase 12
>> cans from Cardinal which is way more than I need. The touch-up from Van's
>> is
>> not sufficient for my needs. Alternatively, does anyone know of another
>> paint source that might be a close match to the color?
>>
>> Marty in Nashville TN
>> RV-6A about done painting.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Marty Santic ----- W9EAA
My RV-12 (Light Sport Aircraft) Build Log -
http://www.martysrv12.blogspot.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Painting the Baffling... |
Matt,
I paid $60 and had my baffling powder coated black.? I had the shop just add my
parts to another job they were doing to keep the costs down.? Five years later
and no cracks and?no scratches.? The powder coating really looks good on those
parts.? I don't think the heat treat is a big concern.
Rick Grenwis
RV-6A Denver, CO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Daus" <dauscj(at)nb.net> |
| Subject: | Painting The Baffling... |
Matt,
There are some low e (low energy) powders on the market that will cure at
less than 300 deg F. So at these temps is should not artificially age your
aluminum. The powder manufactures will recommend you not exceed these temps
in the field though. I have powdered many parts that exceed these temps and
never had any issues except exhaust systems and even with them only the 1st
couple of inches fail. If you have any other questions about powdercaoting I
will do my best to answer. I have been powdercoating for about 10 years
professionally.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 11:02 PM
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Painting The Baffling...
Dear Listers,
I had been planning on black anodizing the various engine baffling pieces in
keeping with my black-n-chrome theme under the hood. But I'm noticing that
the pieces are getting pretty scratched up during all of this extra fitting
that's necessary for the IO-390. Since the pieces can't be run through a
surfacer first because of the bends, I'm rethinking how good anodizing is
really going to look.
I know we're not suppose to power coat the 2024-T3 because the curing heat
required can un-T3 the 2024, but does it really matter for the baffling?
Its not really structural, per say. And if power coating is alright, what
effects will the engine compartment heat have on the power coating? There's
probably a high-temp power coat, but it would likely require a higher curing
temp, and that get's us back to the first sentence of this paragraph...
Power coating the baffling would definitely look pretty cool.
Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would look super cool. Can
you chrome 2024-T3? How much would that cost compared to power coating?
Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test |
| From: | Tracy Crook <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com> |
I have cut out the bottom of the cooling exit ramp, Installed a hinge at
forward edge and filled in the sides of the ramp to form a cowl flap. It
helped a little but not the final solution. Also tried the VGs on trailing
edge of cooling exit but saw very little effect.
Question for you guys who installed the louvers. Did you install them on
the bottom of the cooling exit ramp or on either side of it?
Tracy Crook
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 11:14 PM, Hadley Heinrichs wrote:
> Tracy,
>
> you might want to use a cowl flap to pull more air out...look on the EGG
> site for specs. the volume of air increased by 80%, brought the numbers
> down if i recall properly.
>
> cheers,
>
> Had
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Tracy Crook
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 16, 2009 3:41:41 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test
>
> Thanks for all the encouragement guys. Here's an update on the testing.
>
> Been thinking over what to do about the cooling on the 20B rotary powered
> RV-8. The indications are that I'm getting too much pressure under the cowl
> but that was only a guess. Without doing a number of time consuming
> pressure surveys or chopping up the cowl there was no way to be sure it was
> not something else like too small oil cooler and radiator, inlet diffusers
> not working as well as I had hoped, inlet shape not right (they had very
> sharp lips which might be causing separation) or some other unknown.
>
> Time is limited before I leave on vacation and I really needed to know the
> answer before I do. So, last night I made the decision to fly the -8 one
> more time - This time Without the cowl on. Wish there was someone around to
> get a pix, must have looked pretty strange.
>
> Secured anything that might get blown loose with tie wraps and did the
> deed. Whoo Hoo! Oil temp 147, coolant temp 161. This on a hot day (92 deg
> OAT). With the cowl on, they never went below 200 and hovered around 210
> most of the time at low throttle. They went up rapidly with more throttle.
>
> Obvious conclusion is that I need a better path for the air to leave the
> cowl. Have read with interest the results of some Lycoming RVs with high
> oil temps that fixed the problem with louvers (on bottom?) of cowl. Some
> say they worked great, others had less than good results so not sure that is
> the answer but ordered a set if nothing else occurs to me.
>
> The airplane felt a little draggier , down about 15 MPH at the low
> throttle setting I used for test so this should be a worst case test. The
> wheel pants and main gear intersection fairings are also off. Did some
> brief full throttle climbs and temps stayed under control, oil never
> exceeding 160 F. Climb is awesome with a deck angle so high it was
> uncomfortable. Was looking hard at temps so did not note the ROC but it was
> more than anything else I've flown. My 13B powered RV-4 goes 2500 FPM on a
> standard day.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test |
Tracy, I installed my cooling louvers on each side of the exit ramp.
Walt Shipley
From: "Tracy Crook" <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 1:01:56 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test
I have cut out the bottom of the cooling exit ramp, Installed a hinge at fo
rward edge and filled in the sides of the ramp to form a cowl flap.=C2- I
t helped a little but not the final solution.=C2- Also tried the VGs on t
railing edge of cooling exit but saw very little effect.
Question for you guys who installed the louvers.=C2- Did you install them
on the bottom of the cooling exit ramp or on either side of it?=C2-
Tracy Crook
On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 11:14 PM, Hadley Heinrichs < rvhad(at)yahoo.com > wrot
e:
Tracy,
you might want to use a cowl flap to pull more air out...look on the EGG si
te for specs.=C2- the volume of air increased by 80%, brought the numbers
down if i recall properly.
cheers,
Had
From: Tracy Crook < tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com >
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 3:41:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Rotary powered RV-8 Cooling test
Thanks for all the encouragement guys. Here's an update on the testing.
Been thinking over what to do about the cooling on the 20B rotary powered R
V-8.=C2- The indications are that I'm getting too much pressure under the
cowl but that was only a guess.=C2- Without doing a number of time consu
ming pressure surveys or chopping up the cowl there was no way to be sure i
t was not something else like too small oil cooler and radiator,=C2- inle
t diffusers not working as well as I had hoped, inlet shape not right (they
had very sharp lips which might be causing separation) or some other unkno
wn.
Time is limited before I leave on vacation and I really needed to know the
answer before I do.=C2- So, last night I made the decision to fly the -8
one more time - This time Without the cowl on.=C2- Wish there was someone
around to get a pix, must have looked pretty strange.
=C2-Secured anything that might get blown loose with tie wraps and did th
e deed.=C2- Whoo Hoo! Oil temp 147, coolant temp 161.=C2- This on a hot
day (92 deg OAT). With the cowl on, they never went below 200 and hovered
around 210 most of the time at low throttle. They went up rapidly with more
throttle.
=C2-=C2- Obvious conclusion is that I need a better path for the air to
leave the cowl.=C2-=C2- Have read with interest the results of some Ly
coming RVs with high oil temps that fixed the problem with louvers (on bott
om?) of cowl.=C2- Some say they worked great, others had less than good r
esults so not sure that is the answer but ordered a set if nothing else occ
urs to me.
The airplane felt a little draggier ,=C2- down about 15 MPH at the low th
rottle setting I used for test so this should be a worst case test.=C2- T
he wheel pants and main gear intersection fairings are also off.=C2-=C2
- Did some brief full throttle climbs and temps stayed under control, oil
never exceeding 160 F.=C2- Climb is awesome with a deck angle so high it
was uncomfortable.=C2- Was looking hard at temps so did not note the ROC
but it was more than anything else I've flown.=C2- My 13B powered=C2-
RV-4 goes 2500 FPM on a standard day.
Tracy Crook
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp://forums.matroni
cs.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Fwd: Engine Hesitation - Case Closed |
Gang,=C2- I got this answer back from Gus Funnell at Van's regarding my e
ngine hesitation problem. This, in
addition to my response from Don Rivera at Airflow, makes me believe this i
s a common occurrence. I don't
plan on pursuing it further....
Walt Shipley
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "Gus Funnell" <gusf(at)vansaircraft.com>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 1:13:09 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: Engine Hesitation
Erratic idle is common with FI engines in RVs on hot days. A pump shroud
may help, but not much, as there is little airflow through the cowl at taxi
speeds to cool down a heat soaked engine/pump.
Vans
On 21 Sep 2009 at 15:18, rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Hi, I have an IO-360 B4A in my RV-8A that exhibits "stumbling" at
> idle when I'm taxiing in from a
> flight on a warm day. I'm guessing
> this is caused by fuel vaporization somewhere in the fuel system.
>
> I have already contacted Don Rivera at Airflow Performance and
> obtained a set of four nozzles
> that have a smaller orifice than
> standard, with the theory that the increased pressure would prevent
> the stumbling or at least
> improve engine smoothness.Since
> installation of the new nozzles, the engine does run smoother, but
> the occasional stumble is still
> there.
>
> My question is this - is this pretty normal for fuel injected RV'S?
> Also, is the cooling shroud you
> sell for the fuel pump effective in
> eliminating the engine stumbling ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Walt Shipley RV-8A 80877
> Chuckey, TN
>
>
>
>
****E-MAIL PRIVILEGED INFORMATION****
(applicable to any email sent from Van's Aircraft, Inc.
or any employee of Van's Aircraft, Inc.)
This email message is for the sole use of the
intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential
and privileged information. Any unauthorized
review, use, disclosure or distribution is
prohibited. =C2-If you are not the intended
recipient, please contact the sender by reply
email and destroy all copies of the original
message. =C2-If you are the intended recipient,
please be advised that the content of this message
is subject to access, review and disclosure by the
sender's Email System Administrator.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg fairing scribe lines |
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
The answer on the scribe lines on gear leg fairings comes from Ken Scott at Van's:
Some fairings have them, some don't. I think it depends on the condition of the
mold when they are laid up. It really doesn't make much difference, as it turns
out. Trim the fairing to fit between the fuse and the wheel pant. As long
as it's symmetrical between sides, it will work.
The inter. fairings can cover whatever space you leave.
--------
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264184#264184
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Veld <jcveld(at)mac.com> |
I have designed and built air control louvers that attach to the air
exit side of the oil cooler. it requires about 1.5" of clearance to
install. is designed to be actuated via a vernier push/pull control. I
am no longer working on an RV, but these louvers have flown (with a
337 field approval) on a C17s and a Mooney, both with Lyc. O-360
power. If you are interested in info including performance info &
pics, email me off list. jcveld(at)mac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor... |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Great pictures, Bill; thank you!
I just ordered a PCU5000 with the extension arm and the clockwise rotation (clockwise
to increase pitch).
What length control cable did you use?
If you had made your bracket stick out a little farther, could you have gotten
away with not using the extra bushing on the control arm?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Engine Baffling & Governor Installation...
--------
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264215#264215
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
| Subject: | Painting Baffles |
I am finishing my baffles and have put a primer coat (SEMS Self Etching Gre
y) on the metal and decided to leave it at that and not paint. Has anyone d
one this? If so, how did it hold up?
Paul Valovich
RV-8A N192NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | RV Newsletter was Gear leg fairing scribe lines |
Bob...
If you are working on the fairings you must be nearing the final stage of completion!
Is the RV Newsletter dead and burried?
Curious in Oregon...
C. Stone
RV-8 eventually
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Sep 21, 2009 3:08 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Gear leg fairing scribe lines
>
>
>The answer on the scribe lines on gear leg fairings comes from Ken Scott at Van's:
>
>Some fairings have them, some don't. I think it depends on the condition of the
mold when they are laid up. It really doesn't make much difference, as it
turns out. Trim the fairing to fit between the fuse and the wheel pant. As long
as it's symmetrical between sides, it will work.
>The inter. fairings can cover whatever space you leave.
>
>
>--------
>Bob Collins
>St. Paul, Minn.
>Letters from Flyover Country
>http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264184#264184
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wgill10(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor... |
Hello Matt,
I purchased a 72" cable from Spruce (special order, 3.5" stroke). A 68" cab
le would have been perfect, but more special order fees were required. Sinc
e I have a -7 without side controls, your application will likely be differ
ent.
Best regards,
Bill
RV-7 N151WP
Lee's Summit, MO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 5:00:40 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: RV-List: Re: Front Mounted Governor vs. Rear Mounted Governor...
Great pictures, Bill; thank you!
I just ordered a PCU5000 with the extension arm and the clockwise rotation
(clockwise to increase pitch).
What length control cable did you use?
If you had made your bracket stick out a little farther, could you have got
ten away with not using the extra bushing on the control arm?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Engine Baffling & Governor Installation...
--------
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=264215#264215
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection Plate |
Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the forward
coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area? If so I'd
love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc? Please contact me
off-line.
Thanks.... for the help.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
| From: | Ollie Washburn <ollies7s(at)gmail.com> |
Many RVs have the cut-outs. Some with 2 and some with 4 like mine.
Ollie
On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 10:21 AM, David Schaefer wrote:
> Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the forward
> coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area? If so I'd
> love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc? Please contact me
> off-line.
>
> Thanks.... for the help.
>
>
> David W. Schaefer
> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> www.n142ds.com
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Painting Baffles |
| From: | peter laurence <peterlaurence6(at)gmail.com> |
There are Rvs at my field that with bare metal baffles. A couple of them are
over ten years old and the baffles look fine.
BTW, I retrieved a scrap piece of flap that was in my back yard exposed to
the elements(Miami Beach).Buffed it up a bit and and was good as new.
Now, Had that flap been primed and painted without ectching and chromic
converting, filliform
corrosion would have been the menu for the day!
Peter Laurence
On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 9:30 AM, Valovich, Paul wrote:
> I am finishing my baffles and have put a primer coat (SEMS Self Etching
> Grey) on the metal and decided to leave it at that and not paint. Has anyone
> done this? If so, how did it hold up?
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> RV-8A N192NM
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RV Newsletter was Gear leg fairing scribe lines |
Yes, I am working on the "final stage of completion," Chris. Of course, I've
been working on the stage for several years, now. (g)
Seriously, if I had a bunch of money and a lot more time, I'd be flying by
next year some time. But I'm thinking 2011 is probably more realistic.
Somewhere along the 8-year build in which I started out as a cut-corners
kind of guy, I became a bit of a perfectionist.
Yes, the RV Builder's Hotline is -- basically -- dead and buried (although
the archives and all the articles will stay up). Once Yahoo started bouncing
back because of sp*m, it just created a nightmare of work trying to get each
mailing out to 2,000 people. But the real problem is that a lot of content
that was spread all over the universe, has migrated to VAF so the reason for
its existence disappeared.
I still write an occasional article but I just put it on the blog
(http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com).
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 8:34 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV Newsletter was Gear leg fairing scribe lines
Bob...
If you are working on the fairings you must be nearing the final stage of
completion!
Is the RV Newsletter dead and burried?
Curious in Oregon...
C. Stone
RV-8 eventually
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
Dan Checkoway did this but all his pictures and website are gone.
Mark Rose 8A 137MR
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 7:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the
forward coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area?
If so I'd love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc?
Please contact me off-line.
Thanks.... for the help.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Hi All!
I'm building an RV-9A and I've decided that I want to go with an IO-320 (vertical
induction) engine which will probably be purchased from Aerosport in BC (I'm
located in Canada). This engine uses the Precision AirmotiveSilver HawkEX fuel
injection system which, from what I'm told, has no fuel vapor return lines.
This seems like a nice feature as that means that I wouldn't have to poke another
set of holes in my tanks.
Unfortunetly in all the time I've spent researching and gathering information on
how to hook it all up, I've been finding that there is an amazing lack of information
on how one would go about installing it. I asked Aerosport if they had
any information on how the system would be plumbed in and they said I should
go talk to Precision. I went and spoke with Precision and they told me that
that would be dictated by the engine manufacturer and I should go talk to them.
I'm stuck. Van's has apparently never installed a vertical induction fuel injected
engine on any of their planes so they won't even begin to speculate. The
Van's Airforce site was no help (which was surprising) as well as a couple of
dozen builder websites which didn't help either.
Is anyone here using a setup like that? Would anyone here have a diagram as to
how this system would be put together?
Thanks!
__________________________________________________________________
Make your browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new Internet Explorer 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bryan" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection Plate |
David,
Why offline? This would be of particular interest to me and probably
others. Anyone responding to this, please post online. Thanks a bunch. I
just hate crawling under the panel to get to stuff. Not sure how bad the
access panels would look, but maybe not bad.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Schaefer
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 9:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the forward
coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area? If so I'd
love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc? Please contact me
off-line.
Thanks.... for the help.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Inspection Plate |
Just a note, Vans strongly discourages this mod as it weakens the entire
structure. This is part of the "crumple zone" in the event of a crash and
weakening the area could compromise pilot and passenger safety.
Bret Smith
EAA Technical Advisor
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Dan Checkoway did this but all his pictures and website are gone.
Mark Rose 8A 137MR
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 7:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the forward
coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area? If so I'd
love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc? Please contact me
off-line.
Thanks.... for the help.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
While we did not use the precision fuel injection system we did install an
IO-320 in our RV-9A using the airflow performance FI system. Sorry I don't
have any pictures but I can tell you that we basically used the Van's RV-7
A fuel injection system drawing. The exception was the fuel return line co
ming from the purge valve mounted to the flow divider. We had to install a
return line from the flow purge valve to the left tank fuel line just prior
to the selector valve. Easy to do and the only special consideration is t
hat we purge and start on the right tank. Any questions drop me a line.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
> Date: Tue=2C 22 Sep 2009 16:49:27 -0700
> From: squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca
> Subject: RV-List: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram??
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Hi All!
>
> I'm building an RV-9A and I've decided that I want to go with an IO-320 (
vertical induction) engine which will probably be purchased from Aerosport
in BC (I'm located in Canada). This engine uses the Precision Airmotive Si
lver Hawk EX fuel injection system which=2C from what I'm told=2C has no fu
el vapor return lines. This seems like a nice feature as that means that I
wouldn't have to poke another set of holes in my tanks.
>
> Unfortunetly in all the time I've spent researching and gathering informa
tion on how to hook it all up=2C I've been finding that there is an amazing
lack of information on how one would go about installing it. I asked Aero
sport if they had any information on how the system would be plumbed in and
they said I should go talk to Precision. I went and spoke with Precision
and they told me that that would be dictated by the engine manufacturer and
I should go talk to them. I'm stuck. Van's has apparently never installe
d a vertical induction fuel injected engine on any of their planes so they
won't even begin to speculate. The Van's Airforce site was no help (which
was surprising) as well as a couple of dozen builder websites which didn't
help either.
>
> Is anyone here using a setup like that? Would anyone here have a diagram
as to how this system would be put together?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Make your browsing faster=2C safer=2C and easier with the new Internet Ex
plorer=AE 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.
yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Not sure what a vertical induction would look like, as the injected type
certificated versions of Lycoming I am familiar with all had Precision
horizontal induction, and have no provisions for any return line. Any
reason you couldn't specify a horizontal induction sump for your engine?
I would look to what the Twin Comanche used with the IO-320.
Mike Robertson wrote:
> While we did not use the precision fuel injection system we did install
> an IO-320 in our RV-9A using the airflow performance FI system. Sorry I
> don't have any pictures but I can tell you that we basically used the
> Van's RV-7A fuel injection system drawing. The exception was the fuel
> return line coming from the purge valve mounted to the flow divider. We
> had to install a return line from the flow purge valve to the left tank
> fuel line just prior to the selector valve. Easy to do and the only
> special consideration is that we purge and start on the right tank. Any
> questions drop me a line.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
>
> > Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:49:27 -0700
> > From: squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca
> > Subject: RV-List: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram??
> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > Hi All!
> >
> > I'm building an RV-9A and I've decided that I want to go with an
> IO-320 (vertical induction) engine which will probably be purchased from
> Aerosport in BC (I'm located in Canada). This engine uses the Precision
> Airmotive Silver Hawk EX fuel injection system which, from what I'm
> told, has no fuel vapor return lines. This seems like a nice feature as
> that means that I wouldn't have to poke another set of holes in my tanks.
> >
> > Unfortunetly in all the time I've spent researching and gathering
> information on how to hook it all up, I've been finding that there is an
> amazing lack of information on how one would go about installing it. I
> asked Aerosport if they had any information on how the system would be
> plumbed in and they said I should go talk to Precision. I went and
> spoke with Precision and they told me that that would be dictated by the
> engine manufacturer and I should go talk to them. I'm stuck. Van's has
> apparently never installed a vertical induction fuel injected engine on
> any of their planes so they won't even begin to speculate. The Van's
> Airforce site was no help (which was surprising) as well as a couple of
> dozen builder websites which didn't help either.
> >
> > Is anyone here using a setup like that? Would anyone here have a
> diagram as to how this system would be put together?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________________________
> > Make your browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new Internet
> Explorer 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at
> http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplor======================
> &g==============
> >
> >
> >
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmai='_new'>Sign up now.
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Mark Olson in Canada is getting a new power plant 320 for his RV4 which is fuel
injected. He had a Precision set-up he removed from his old 320... he was also
wanting to sell the system as his new 320 comes with a new FI system. You may
tray and track him down.
Darrell
--- On Tue, 9/22/09, Mike De Lange wrote:
> From: Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca>
> Subject: RV-List: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram??
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, September 22, 2009, 6:49 PM
> Mike De Lange
>
> Hi All!
>
> I'm building an RV-9A and I've decided that I want to go
> with an IO-320 (vertical induction) engine which will
> probably be purchased from Aerosport in BC (I'm located in
> Canada). This engine uses the Precision AirmotiveSilver
> HawkEX fuel injection system which, from what I'm told,
> has no fuel vapor return lines. This seems like a nice
> feature as that means that I wouldn't have to poke another
> set of holes in my tanks.
>
> Unfortunetly in all the time I've spent researching and
> gathering information on how to hook it all up, I've been
> finding that there is an amazing lack of information on how
> one would go about installing it. I asked Aerosport if
> they had any information on how the system would be plumbed
> in and they said I should go talk to Precision. I went and
> spoke with Precision and they told me that that would be
> dictated by the engine manufacturer and I should go talk to
> them. I'm stuck. Van's has apparently never installed a
> vertical induction fuel injected engine on any of their
> planes so they won't even begin to speculate. The Van's
> Airforce site was no help (which was surprising) as well as
> a couple of dozen builder websites which didn't help
> either.
>
> Is anyone here using a setup like that? Would anyone here
> have a diagram as to how this system would be put together?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Make your browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new
> Internet Explorer 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for
> Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/
>
>
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> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection Plate |
An inspection plate done right should not weaken the structure at all. It
could stiffen the structure in a way that was detrimental to the crumple
zone mentioned, but it should not make it weaker. And of course it makes the
plane slightly heavier.
I did it on my stalled 8A project and could come up with some photos if no
one else has any available.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Seattle
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 4:39 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Just a note, Vans strongly discourages this mod as it weakens the entire
structure. This is part of the "crumple zone" in the event of a crash and
weakening the area could compromise pilot and passenger safety.
Bret Smith
EAA Technical Advisor
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Dan Checkoway did this but all his pictures and website are gone.
Mark Rose 8A 137MR
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 7:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the forward
coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area? If so I'd
love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc? Please contact me
off-line.
Thanks.... for the help.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
This is just nonsense. The installation of access panels merely needs to
be done in such a way as to not appreciably weaken OR strengthen the
structure in that region, as it needs to deform in a predictable way. Th
is
assumes that the original monocoque structure was in fact designed exactl
y as
Van's claims and that adequate testing has proven that the crumple zones
collectively behave well in compression at a given crash speed. That the
y
performed this testing and optimized it in the design seem a stretch to
me. I
personally would err on the side of making the mod slightly more robust
rather than slightly weaker than the original area.
I think that after many years Van's people have grown weary of answering
the zillion questions about the myriad modifications possible and so "jus
t
make it work", "if you really needed it, we would have designed it in" an
d
"we discourage making any modifications" yada yada become the most
effective way to end further legitimate discussion.
I would follow prudent access panel suggestions presented in the Tony
Bingelis books and I believe that as long as the area looks approximately
as
robust as the original, it would be acceptable. This is not a wing spar
repair. Keep in mind that there are similar access panels in the undersi
de of
the wing skins at mid-span and these are in a much more critical failure
area.
N1GV (RV-6A Flying 930TTAE Silicon Valley, CA)
In a message dated 9/22/2009 5:11:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
smithhb(at)tds.net writes:
Just a note, Vans strongly discourages this mod as it weakens the entire
structure. This is part of the =9Ccrumple zone=9D in the even
t of a crash and
weakening the area could compromise pilot and passenger safety.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jakent(at)unison.ie" <jakent(at)unison.ie> |
| Subject: | RE: IO-320 Fuel System pictures |
Mike, take a quick look at <
http://www.techass.com/csimpson/rv4/rv4eng.html >
Not a RV-9, I know, but might give you the general idea?
John Kent RV-4 EI-DIY flying..
From: Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: RV-List: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram??
Hi All!
I'm building an RV-9A and I've decided that I want to go with an IO-320
(vertical
induction) engine which will probably be purchased from Aerosport in BC (I'm
located in Canada). This engine uses the Precision AirmotiveSilver HawkEX
fuel
injection system which, from what I'm told, has no fuel vapor return lines.
This seems like a nice feature as that means that I wouldn't have to poke
another
set of holes in my tanks.
Unfortunetly in all the time I've spent researching and gathering
information on
how to hook it all up, I've been finding that there is an amazing lack of
information
on how one would go about installing it. I asked Aerosport if they had
any information on how the system would be plumbed in and they said I should
go talk to Precision. I went and spoke with Precision and they told me that
that would be dictated by the engine manufacturer and I should go talk to
them.
I'm stuck. Van's has apparently never installed a vertical induction fuel
injected
engine on any of their planes so they won't even begin to speculate. The
Van's Airforce site was no help (which was surprising) as well as a couple
of
dozen builder websites which didn't help either.
Is anyone here using a setup like that? Would anyone here have a diagram as
to
how this system would be put together?
Thanks!
--------------------------------------------------------------------
myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft Windows and Linux web and application
hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
Yes I did. Yes it did leak but not after using a sealant just recently,
I picked it up at the auto parts store it was not RTV but is something
that does not harden, I put a small amount around it and installed it.
Washed the aircraft (the only time I noticed it leak) an it did not leak.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009AugDecFlying.htm
David Schaefer wrote:
> Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the
> forward coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that
> area? If so I'd love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak
> etc? Please contact me off-line.
>
> Thanks.... for the help.
>
>
>
> David W. Schaefer
> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
> www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | : IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
| From: | James H Nelson <rv9jim(at)juno.com> |
Mike,
I have the IO360 and I wouldn't trade my fuel sysytem from AFP
for a system that does not have the "purge " valve. It lets you have
cool fuel on hot restarts and when shutting down, it "stops" the fuel
from letting the engine "run" on for a bit. I put my return line back to
the fuel line that comes from the right tank between the gear leg and the
fuel selector valve. this lets you pump the hot fuel back to the right
tank wile puttling cool fuel from my left tank. Works great.
Jim
____________________________________________________________
Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYczwqK6xkYeYq9T0r1ZusWUakOPPTVQF3tZ3kOEVETRUbMON7S/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
Tim ...
I agree with your position. Replies are helpful to all listers and a good
reason to share them.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Inspection Plate
David,
Why offline? This would be of particular interest to me and probably
others. Anyone responding to this, please post online. Thanks a bunch. I
just hate crawling under the panel to get to stuff. Not sure how bad the
access panels would look, but maybe not bad.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 Flying
N616TB over 120 hours now
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Schaefer
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 9:21 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the
forward coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area? If
so I'd love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc? Please
contact me off-line.
Thanks.... for the help.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Well, I have been operating an IO-360-A1A in a Mooney for over 10 years
with no need for purge valve complexity, no issue for hot starts, no
issue for shutdown. If an engine tries to run on there is something
wrong with it. KISS. No need to add parts to solve non-problems.
James H Nelson wrote:
>
> Mike,
> I have the IO360 and I wouldn't trade my fuel sysytem from AFP
> for a system that does not have the "purge " valve. It lets you have
> cool fuel on hot restarts and when shutting down, it "stops" the fuel
> from letting the engine "run" on for a bit. I put my return line back to
> the fuel line that comes from the right tank between the gear leg and the
> fuel selector valve. this lets you pump the hot fuel back to the right
> tank wile puttling cool fuel from my left tank. Works great.
>
> Jim
> ____________________________________________________________
> Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYczwqK6xkYeYq9T0r1ZusWUakOPPTVQF3tZ3kOEVETRUbMON7S/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
Hi David,
See entries dated 6/26/04 on this page: http://rv7-a.com/tipup_canopy_2.htm
Would I do it again? Yes. Doesn't leak either.
> Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the
> forward coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that
> area? If so I'd love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak
> etc? Please contact me off-line.
>
> Thanks.... for the help.
>
>
> David W. Schaefer
> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT
> EFIS
> www.n142ds.com
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection Plate |
Hi Walter,
I see you made yours with the panels laid out flat. I've done flat access
panels before, but haven't tried doing yet on this piece that will be
installed with the panel curved. So you just did yours laid out flat?
No problems with that? I had figured that, if I did it flat (MUCH easier
than trying to do it in place curved), the panel and the sheet would bend
differently and result in opening the gap between the panel and the opening.
Not an issue for you?
brian
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection Plate
Hi David,
See entries dated 6/26/04 on this page: http://rv7-a.com/tipup_canopy_2.htm
Would I do it again? Yes. Doesn't leak either.
Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the forward
coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that area? If so I'd
love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak etc? Please contact me
off-line.
Thanks.... for the help.
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.rv7-a.com - flying
05:52:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight Frye <dwight(at)openweave.org> |
| Subject: | Re: : IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
As a note ... Airflow Performance is in the process of making a new
version of their system available which does not require a purge
valve and/or return line. I believe it is bolt-compatible with the
Precision as well, but Don Rivera (Airflow owner, and FI guru) is who
you should talk to for details.
Like Jim I did not run the purge line all the way back to the tanks,
but just back to the feed line from the right tank. It is simple and
has proven to be effective.
As for me, I _like_ the functionality that the purge valve provides in
the system and have found the additional plumbing to be trivial. But
for those who really don't want the purge valve and line ... Don now
will have an option for you to run with.
-- Dwight
FYI: I am not affiliated with Airflow in any way except as someone who
has received absolutely superb customer service.
On Wed Sep 23 07:49:29 2009, James H Nelson wrote :
>
>Mike,
> I have the IO360 and I wouldn't trade my fuel sysytem from AFP
>for a system that does not have the "purge " valve. It lets you have
>cool fuel on hot restarts and when shutting down, it "stops" the fuel
>from letting the engine "run" on for a bit. I put my return line back to
>the fuel line that comes from the right tank between the gear leg and the
>fuel selector valve. this lets you pump the hot fuel back to the right
>tank wile puttling cool fuel from my left tank. Works great.
>
>Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Walter Tondu <walter(at)tondu.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
The area in which I located the panels is very flat and so it
did not have any impact. If you build 4 inspection panels as
some have done (two additional panels outboard) then that
*might* be an issue in which case you would want to measure
and drill with the skin in-place.
On Sep 23, 2009, at 9:44 AM, Brian Meyette wrote:
> Hi Walter,
> I see you made yours with the panels laid out flat. I've done flat
> access panels before, but haven't tried doing yet on this piece that
> will be installed with the panel curved. So you just did yours
> laid out flat? No problems with that? I had figured that, if I
> did it flat (MUCH easier than trying to do it in place curved), the
> panel and the sheet would bend differently and result in opening the
> gap between the panel and the opening. Not an issue for you?
> brian
--
Walter Tondu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection Plate |
For my 8A, I think I remember that I had some material trimmed off the
forward top skin that had exactly the right curve in it, or possibly I
rolled the curve myself. Either way, it fit the curved surface quite well.
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection Plate
The area in which I located the panels is very flat and so it
did not have any impact. If you build 4 inspection panels as
some have done (two additional panels outboard) then that
*might* be an issue in which case you would want to measure
and drill with the skin in-place.
On Sep 23, 2009, at 9:44 AM, Brian Meyette wrote:
Hi Walter,
I see you made yours with the panels laid out flat. I've done flat access
panels before, but haven't tried doing yet on this piece that will be
installed with the panel curved. So you just did yours laid out flat?
No problems with that? I had figured that, if I did it flat (MUCH easier
than trying to do it in place curved), the panel and the sheet would bend
differently and result in opening the gap between the panel and the opening.
Not an issue for you?
brian
--
Walter Tondu
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=38
Above are some notes on access panels I did on the RV-8. No memorable
problems with water leaks in during washing or flying. Otherwise is was
hangered or covered. I may do the same on the RV-7 tip-up....not sure yet.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 4:05 PM, Terry Watson wrote:
> For my 8A, I think I remember that I had some material trimmed off the
> forward top skin that had exactly the right curve in it, or possibly I
> rolled the curve myself. Either way, it fit the curved surface quite well.
>
>
> Terry
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Walter Tondu
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:42 AM
>
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Inspection Plate
>
>
> The area in which I located the panels is very flat and so it
>
> did not have any impact. If you build 4 inspection panels as
>
> some have done (two additional panels outboard) then that
>
> *might* be an issue in which case you would want to measure
>
> and drill with the skin in-place.
>
>
> On Sep 23, 2009, at 9:44 AM, Brian Meyette wrote:
>
>
> Hi Walter,
>
> I see you made yours with the panels laid out flat. I've done flat access
> panels before, but haven't tried doing yet on this piece that will be
> installed with the panel curved. So you just did yours laid out flat?
> No problems with that? I had figured that, if I did it flat (MUCH easier
> than trying to do it in place curved), the panel and the sheet would bend
> differently and result in opening the gap between the panel and the
> opening. Not an issue for you?
>
> brian
>
>
> --
>
> Walter Tondu
>
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Painting Baffles |
I too have painted my engine baffles as well as an aluminum plenum I
designed. I alodined (sp) first, then used the same primer I used on the fuselage
and followed with a finish topcoat (all matching Van's motor mount). Even
with all that heat in there, the paint is holding up perfectly after 420
hours. I sometimes show my airplane with the top engine cowling off and
painted baffles look so much better than unfinished (and always scratched)
aluminum.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 - Reserve Grand Champion, Best Metal, Best Low Wing, Outstanding
Workmanship and other awards.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Mike,
Here's a couple of items to think about. I have picked up Precision's
interactive CD titled "Maintaining the RSA Fuel Injection System, a Video
tape from them titled the same, and several informative PDF's from
Precision's Web site such as the "operating and Performance Data" and "Price
and Information Catalog". I also picked up somewhere the RSA-5 and RSA-10
Fuel Injection Systems "Operations and Service Manual" from Bendix, Energy
Controls Division. All of which helped me to understand the system.
I purchased a 0-360 Lycoming used with a Bendix FI system, no purge line
required, but it had been removed from the engine. The servo fits just like
the carb on the engine bottom but the mixture arm interfered with the FAB on
my RV-6A. I purchased a 0.75" spacer from Mr. Bowhay on this list years ago
before he died and still I had to cut into the flange on the top side of the
FAB. One could of course modify the top of the FAB to accommodate, so this
was a tricky area. Also, the original installation did not run the fuel
like to the distribution spider between the cylinders and I had to modify
mind to do so. I'm just finishing painting and have not started the engine,
but hope to do so very soon and find out if all works. Otherwise, it was
not more difficult that a carb would have been to install.
Marty in Brentwood TN
RV-6A painting.
From: Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: RV-List: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram??
Hi All!
I'm building an RV-9A and I've decided that I want to go with an IO-320
(vertical
induction) engine which will probably be purchased from Aerosport in BC (I'm
located in Canada). This engine uses the Precision AirmotiveSilver HawkEX
fuel injection system which, from what I'm told, has no fuel vapor return
lines. This seems like a nice feature as that means that I wouldn't have to
poke another set of holes in my tanks.
Unfortunetly in all the time I've spent researching and gathering
information on how to hook it all up, I've been finding that there is an
amazing lack of information on how one would go about installing it. I asked
Aerosport if they had any information on how the system would be plumbed in
and they said I should go talk to Precision. I went and spoke with Precision
and they told me that that would be dictated by the engine manufacturer and
I should go talk to them. I'm stuck. Van's has apparently never installed a
vertical induction fuel injected engine on any of their planes so they won't
even begin to speculate. The Van's Airforce site was no help (which was
surprising) as well as a couple of dozen builder websites which didn't help
either.
Is anyone here using a setup like that? Would anyone here have a diagram as
to how this system would be put together?
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Inspection Plate |
That sure looks familiar, Larry. I think I must have copied yours.
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection Plate
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=38
Above are some notes on access panels I did on the RV-8. No memorable
problems with water leaks in during washing or flying. Otherwise is was
hangered or covered. I may do the same on the RV-7 tip-up....not sure yet.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Wed, Sep 23, 2009 at 4:05 PM, Terry Watson wrote:
For my 8A, I think I remember that I had some material trimmed off the
forward top skin that had exactly the right curve in it, or possibly I
rolled the curve myself. Either way, it fit the curved surface quite well.
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Walter Tondu
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inspection Plate
The area in which I located the panels is very flat and so it
did not have any impact. If you build 4 inspection panels as
some have done (two additional panels outboard) then that
*might* be an issue in which case you would want to measure
and drill with the skin in-place.
On Sep 23, 2009, at 9:44 AM, Brian Meyette wrote:
Hi Walter,
I see you made yours with the panels laid out flat. I've done flat access
panels before, but haven't tried doing yet on this piece that will be
installed with the panel curved. So you just did yours laid out flat?
No problems with that? I had figured that, if I did it flat (MUCH easier
than trying to do it in place curved), the panel and the sheet would bend
differently and result in opening the gap between the panel and the opening.
Not an issue for you?
brian
--
Walter Tondu
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
a>http://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inspection Plate |
The only way I knew that mine leaked was because I have the brain box
for my engine monitor under one of those and after I washed the aircraft
my engine monitor would not work properly until it dried out. I never
saw any water so it was very little. After sealing, it no longer leaks.
They are very need on my plane, and glad I did it.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009AugDecFlying.htm
Bobby Hester wrote:
> Yes I did. Yes it did leak but not after using a sealant just
> recently, I picked it up at the auto parts store it was not RTV but is
> something that does not harden, I put a small amount around it and
> installed it. Washed the aircraft (the only time I noticed it leak) an
> it did not leak.
> ----
> Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site:
> http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009AugDecFlying.htm
>
>
>
>
> David Schaefer wrote:
>> Has anyone in the 6 or 7 community cut 'inspection' plates into the
>> forward coweling just ahead of the windshield for access to that
>> area? If so I'd love to see pictures, how you did it, does it leak
>> etc? Please contact me off-line.
>>
>> Thanks.... for the help.
>>
>>
>>
>> David W. Schaefer
>> RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
>> TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
>> www.n142ds.com <http://www.n142ds.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Thanks to everyone who replied - it was very much appreciated and every bit of
information helps at this point. I ended up spending almost an hour on the phone
with Bart from Aerosport yesterday and he helped me hash out the system and
answered every question I had. Yea - I was over-thinking and over-complicating
the whole system.
Mike
__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite
sites. Download it now
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
| From: | Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> |
My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler we've
noticed significant amounts of air coming in through the control stick
holes and also out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball vents.
The Van's drawing calls for the removal of the fourth hole on the
mounting (the one you would catch your leg on) and this seems to result
in a slightly open joint, especially under air pressure. What have
others done about both problems. I realize putting a boot over the
stick will help that area, but unfortunately I just bought nice looking
automotive gear shift boots that have lots of fancy little holes in
them! Any ideas for what material would be light, flexible and
draughtproof??
Beautiful flying day!
Ian Brown
Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
I solved the leaking Van's air vent by replacing them with the beautifully machined
aluminum vents that screw together and clamp that leaky bottom corner joint
airtight. The leak around the control stick requires boots around the aileron
push rods at the fuselage side and an airtight stick boot. Those two things
solved 90% of the cold air leaks in my RV-6 slider. Now my wife just complains
about the slight draft on the back of her neck from the rear canopy slide. I
haven't bothered to work on that yet.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 616 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian" <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 10:37:50 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV-List: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A
My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler we've noticed
significant amounts of air coming in through the control stick holes and also
out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball vents. The Van's drawing calls
for the removal of the fourth hole on the mounting (the one you would catch
your leg on) and this seems to result in a slightly open joint, especially under
air pressure. What have others done about both problems. I realize putting
a boot over the stick will help that area, but unfortunately I just bought nice
looking automotive gear shift boots that have lots of fancy little holes in
them! Any ideas for what material would be light, flexible and draughtproof??
Beautiful flying day!
Ian Brown
Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
Hi Ian,
For the push-rod boots:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/cold.html#boots
For the air-vents, I bought a set (very nice metal ones) from Stein Air:
http://www.steinair.com/eyeballvents.htm
Regards,
/\/elson
~~ Lately my memory seems to be like a steel trap .... without any spring. ~~
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009, Ian wrote:
> My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler we've noticed
significant amounts of air coming in through the control stick holes and also
out of the edges of the mounting
> of the eyeball vents. The Van's drawing calls for the removal of the fourth
hole on the mounting (the one you would catch your leg on) and this seems to
result in a slightly open joint,
> especially under air pressure. What have others done about both problems.
I realize putting a boot over the stick will help that area, but unfortunately
I just bought nice looking automotive
> gear shift boots that have lots of fancy little holes in them! Any ideas for
what material would be light, flexible and draughtproof??
>
> Beautiful flying day!
> Ian Brown
> Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
Ian wrote:
> My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler we've
> noticed significant amounts of air coming in through the control stick
> holes and also out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball vents.
> The Van's drawing calls for the removal of the fourth hole on the
> mounting (the one you would catch your leg on) and this seems to result
> in a slightly open joint, especially under air pressure. What have
> others done about both problems. I realize putting a boot over the
> stick will help that area, but unfortunately I just bought nice looking
> automotive gear shift boots that have lots of fancy little holes in
> them! Any ideas for what material would be light, flexible and
> draughtproof??
Get ripstop nylon from a fabric store. Comes in lots of colors! You
can also order stick covers and aileron pushrod covers from most
experimental interior suppliers.
Linn
>
> Beautiful flying day!
> Ian Brown
> Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Tasker <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
The main source of air coming up through your control stick area comes
in from the wings. An aileron boot such as Flightline Interiors sells
would go a long way to removing that as a source of cold. You could
also make your own if you are good with a sewing machine. Just use
coated nylon or similar and make a cone shaped assembly that attached to
your aileron pushrod and the edges of the holes in the sidewall.
See http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/products/construction/default.asp
Dick Tasker
Ian wrote:
> My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler
> we've noticed significant amounts of air coming in through the control
> stick holes and also out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball
> vents. The Van's drawing calls for the removal of the fourth hole on
> the mounting (the one you would catch your leg on) and this seems to
> result in a slightly open joint, especially under air pressure. What
> have others done about both problems. I realize putting a boot over
> the stick will help that area, but unfortunately I just bought nice
> looking automotive gear shift boots that have lots of fancy little
> holes in them! Any ideas for what material would be light, flexible
> and draughtproof??
>
> Beautiful flying day!
> Ian Brown
> Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
try Abby at FLightline Interiors for aileron rod boots
http://www.flightlineinteriors.com/
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 1:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A
My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler we've
noticed significant amounts of air coming in through the control stick holes
and also out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball vents. The Van's
drawing calls for the removal of the fourth hole on the mounting (the one
you would catch your leg on) and this seems to result in a slightly open
joint, especially under air pressure. What have others done about both
problems. I realize putting a boot over the stick will help that area, but
unfortunately I just bought nice looking automotive gear shift boots that
have lots of fancy little holes in them! Any ideas for what material would
be light, flexible and draughtproof??
Beautiful flying day!
Ian Brown
Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
05:52:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting The Baffling... |
Matt,
I've never chromed baffling. However, I used to own a motorcycle shop. I did a
LOT of custom work for folks. Aluminum can be chrome plated. That said, it's
not really a good idea. The coefficient of expansion differs quite a bit between
aluminum and chromium. This means that the chrome will tend to flake off over
time if the parts are exposed to temperature extremes. My experience shows
that cold, rather than heat is the real problem. High humidity and cold makes
it even worse. Chrome will also become a maintenance headache if you live or fly
[low altitude] near salt water.
I will second Peter Laurence's earlier suggestion to Alodine, epoxy prime and
paint (polyurethane) the baffle parts. Lots of RV guys here have done it with
excellent results. They even paint the crankcases, sump and accessory cover like
that. Alodine improves the adhesion of the primer to the aluminum. Just my
2 cents.
Charlie Kuss
> Has anyone ever chromed their baffling? That would
> look super cool. Can you chrome 2024-T3? How
> much would that cost compared to power coating?
>
> Am I fussing too much under the hood? ;-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com
> FWF Baffling, Intake, and Governor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Howdy-
Does anyone on the list know what material is used for the tail wheel springs?
TIA-
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Pardue <n5lp(at)warpdriveonline.com> |
Per the drawings - 6150 steel, heat treated and tempered to 42-44
Rockwell "C" hardness.
Larry
On Sep 24, 2009, at 3:35 PM, glen matejcek wrote:
>
> Howdy-
>
> Does anyone on the list know what material is used for the tail
> wheel springs?
>
> TIA-
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Larry- my plans do not have that info.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Say--can you summarize what you learned and what you will do?
Ralph Finch
Davis, California
RV-9A QB-SA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike De Lange
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 6:05 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram??
Thanks to everyone who replied - it was very much appreciated and every bit
of information helps at this point. I ended up spending almost an hour on
the phone with Bart from Aerosport yesterday and he helped me hash out the
system and answered every question I had. Yea - I was over-thinking and
over-complicating the whole system.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
rainproof poncho material in olive drab is what I used for the pushrod
boots to the fuselage wall. The stickboots are DJs. Very little airflow when
you do the pushrod boots.
In a message dated 9/24/2009 10:54:55 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
ixb(at)videotron.ca writes:
My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler we've
noticed significant amounts of air coming in through the control stick holes
and also out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball vents. The
Van's drawing calls for the removal of the fourth hole on the mounting (the one
you would catch your leg on) and this seems to result in a slightly open
joint, especially under air pressure. What have others done about both
problems. I realize putting a boot over the stick will help that area, but
unfortunately I just bought nice looking automotive gear shift boots that
have lots of fancy little holes in them! Any ideas for what material would
be light, flexible and draughtproof??
Beautiful flying day!
Ian Brown
Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
The thing I do re air inlets is put a strip of duct tape over the inlet
Never had one blow off. Its aboujt time to do that again. (pull of when
warms up) Charlie H
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 13:35
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A
Ian wrote:
> My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler we've
> noticed significant amounts of air coming in through the control stick
> holes and also out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball vents.
> The Van's drawing calls for the removal of the fourth hole on the
> mounting (the one you would catch your leg on) and this seems to result
> in a slightly open joint, especially under air pressure. What have
> others done about both problems. I realize putting a boot over the
> stick will help that area, but unfortunately I just bought nice looking
> automotive gear shift boots that have lots of fancy little holes in
> them! Any ideas for what material would be light, flexible and
> draughtproof??
Get ripstop nylon from a fabric store. Comes in lots of colors! You
can also order stick covers and aileron pushrod covers from most
experimental interior suppliers.
Linn
>
> Beautiful flying day!
> Ian Brown
> Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Brake drag follow up |
I gave the changing o-ring job to my local A&P, he changed the ring, but
said everything was clean and seemed to be fine. He thought the looped
alum brake line was cousing the claiper to cock on pins slightly,
recomended putting short flex instead. That would require opening the
gear leg fairing to put a fiting on the line. Anybody done this??
Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drag follow up |
I have flex line running from the fuse floor to the caliper.
-----Original Message-----
>From: charlie heathco <cheathco(at)cox.net>
>Sent: Sep 25, 2009 8:50 AM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Brake drag follow up
>
>I gave the changing o-ring job to my local A&P, he changed the ring, but said
everything was clean and seemed to be fine. He thought the looped alum brake line
was cousing the claiper to cock on pins slightly, recomended putting short
flex instead. That would require opening the gear leg fairing to put a fiting
on the line. Anybody done this?? Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake drag follow up |
Charlie ..... IMHO the loop should give enough freedom for the brake
cylinder pins to slide in their holes. I've seen direct connections
.... without the loop work really well ..... My Pitts and Traumahawk has
a direct connection without any issues. The only concern I have with
going to flex is the bulk of the hose ..... which may give you other
issues. I think if the cylinder was cocking that you'd see some odd
wear on the pads.
Linn
charlie heathco wrote:
> I gave the changing o-ring job to my local A&P, he changed the ring, but
> said everything was clean and seemed to be fine. He thought the looped
> alum brake line was cousing the claiper to cock on pins slightly,
> recomended putting short flex instead. That would require opening the
> gear leg fairing to put a fiting on the line. Anybody done this?? Charlie H
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | how do you back up an A model RV? |
Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a trigear RV
to move backwards in other than a straight line?
I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV backwards out
of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load. When I
tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn; the nosewheel
castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I eventually got it to
move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel castering stops and letting the
wheel swing around so it was castering backwards.
But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings, they aren't
going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do people back up
their completed planes? Just plan to move only in straight lines?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
I have a tow bar that I got from Bogert.....
Makes it easier - but not easy!
I've seen folks that can push theirs around and drive the nosewheel backwards -
but
I think that would require the breakout force be too low.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Meyette <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Sep 25, 2009 4:38 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
>
>Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a trigear RV
>to move backwards in other than a straight line?
>
>I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV backwards out
>of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load. When I
>tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn; the nosewheel
>castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I eventually got it to
>move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel castering stops and letting the
>wheel swing around so it was castering backwards.
>
>But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings, they aren't
>going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do people back up
>their completed planes? Just plan to move only in straight lines?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Haven't done it on my RV yet, but back when I was flying Cessnas I would
hold the tail down to get the nose wheel off the ground and then roll it
where ever I wanted. Easy to do with my 8A so far, but I don't have the
engine on yet.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 fitting canopy latch.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | how do you back up an A model RV? |
Brian,
It's not hard. I back mine up into the hanger each time. Practice a few
more times and you will get the hang of it. Remember low tire air pressure
does not help. The other thing is don't have "helpers" on the wing or tail.
They don't help. Hold the prop near the root and move the nose as needed to
keep the wheel tracking as desired.
When I made the plane I built a tow bar to steer the nose wheel, but then
found it is not needed.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (500 hrs)
RV-10 (fuselage)
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Meyette
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 4:38 PM
Subject: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a trigear RV
to move backwards in other than a straight line?
I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV backwards out
of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load. When I
tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn; the nosewheel
castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I eventually got it to
move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel castering stops and letting the
wheel swing around so it was castering backwards.
But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings, they aren't
going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do people back up
their completed planes? Just plan to move only in straight lines?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
1. Use a tow handle on the front wheel and steer while pushing.
or
2. Sit on the horizontal elevator to raise the front wheel off the ground.
Either way works.
john
Brian Meyette wrote:
> Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a
> trigear RV to move backwards in other than a straight line?
>
> I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV
> backwards out of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under
> load. When I tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't
> turn; the nosewheel castered until it hit the stop, then I was
> stuck. I eventually got it to move as I wanted it to by removing the
> wheel castering stops and letting the wheel swing around so it was
> castering backwards.
>
> But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings,
> they aren't going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do
> people back up their completed planes? Just plan to move only in
> straight lines?
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
There are several ways to do it fairly easily if you are on pavement,
and I am sure others will cover it..
My warning to you is to be very careful if you removed the stops!
This could set you up for a prop strike if you happen to have the
wheel ass backwards when the prop comes around.
Denis
On Sep 25, 2009, at 3:27 , John Morgensen wrote:
> 1. Use a tow handle on the front wheel and steer while pushing.
>
> or
>
> 2. Sit on the horizontal elevator to raise the front wheel off the
> ground.
>
> Either way works.
> john
>
> Brian Meyette wrote:
>>
>> Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a
>> trigear RV to move backwards in other than a straight line?
>>
>> I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV
>> backwards out of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs
>> under load. When I tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it
>> wouldn't turn; the nosewheel castered until it hit the stop, then I
>> was stuck. I eventually got it to move as I wanted it to by
>> removing the wheel castering stops and letting the wheel swing
>> around so it was castering backwards.
>>
>> But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings,
>> they aren't going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How
>> do people back up their completed planes? Just plan to move only
>> in straight lines?
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hadley Heinrichs <rvhad(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Brian,
just finished my wheel pants...use a tow bar. make sure you order the one that
is the proper size for the vans hole you drill. about 5/8" i think, double check.
spruce has them..DO NOT ORDER THE UNIVERSAL ONE like i did, it will not
fit without cutting and maybe welding. modifying mine is on my list.
great that your STI is getting closer. i did many hours of research last night.
mine is NOT an STI it is a WRX...
http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s11/type_7/engine/engine_assembly/
my number EJ255BXTBB, the EJ257 is the STI series. ours has a different piston
and different heads and may be 8.4 to 1, the other differences were turbo and
peripherals.
important to know if you change pistons etc.
mine just needs supercharger setup and new computer install. then she is ready.
cheers,
Had
________________________________
From: Brian Meyette <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 3:38:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
Here's
an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a trigear RV
to move backwards in other than a straight line?
I just
finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV backwards out of
its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load. When I
tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn; the nosewheel
castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I eventually got
it to move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel castering stops and letting
the wheel swing around so it was castering backwards.
But if
someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings, they aren't going
to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do people back up their
completed planes? Just plan to move only in straight
lines?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Someone said:
" I've seen folks that can push theirs around and drive the nose wheel
backwards"
Do not try this when the aircraft is considered airworthy.
When the Allen screw stops are removed from the top of the nose wheel fork
allowing the nose wheel to rotate 360 degrees, the nose wheel can get into
the prop arc. Sooner or later it will happen. With the engine not running
some paint damage, fiberglass damage, prop damage and some level of injury
to your pride are all quite possible.
Should this Prop nose fork interference happen with the engine running the
result will at the very least spoil a nose wheel, a prop and the whole of
the rest of your day!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
Database version: 6.13350
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Ennis <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
If you plan on backing up on grass, a tow bar is the easiest way to go. By the
way, we need to be very careful pushing down on the hor. stabilizers. Most mechanics
can tell stories about damage to the mounting hardware and adjacent airframe
brackets..... if you must raise the front by pushing on the back, try to
push on the fuselage ahead of the vert stab....or at the very least 1 person
on each side on the hor. stab. The uneven loading and the bending moment on the
fasteners and mounting brackets can do some damage.
C. Ennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Meyette <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Date: Friday, September 25, 2009 16:49
Subject: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
> Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How
> do you get a trigear RV
> to move backwards in other than a straight line?
>
> I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV
> backwards out
> of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under
> load. When I
> tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn;
> the nosewheel
> castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I
> eventually got it to
> move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel castering stops and
> letting the
> wheel swing around so it was castering
> backwards.
>
> But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings,
> they aren't
> going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do
> people back up
> their completed planes? Just plan to move only in
> straight lines?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Actually its very easy. First dont have any help they will just turn the ai
rcraft to one side Second make sure there is the correct amount of resistan
ce when turning the front wheel. It takes a little practice, but not much,
just go slow and push in the direction the wheel is pointing. I have never
had any problems (for 6 years) backing up our 8a unless the wind is really
blowing, then it takes 2.
Scott
=0ARV-8a
=0A
--- On Fri, 9/25/09, Brian Meyette wrote:
From: Brian Meyette <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
Date: Friday, September 25, 2009, 1:38 PM
=0A=0A=0AHere's =0Aan odd question I've never seen before.-- How do you
get a trigear RV =0Ato move backwards in other than a straight line?=0A-
=0AI just =0Afinished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my-RV back
wards out of =0Aits corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load.
-- When I =0Atried to make a turn while pushing-it back, it wouldn't
turn; the nosewheel =0Acastered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck.-
- I eventually got =0Ait to move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel
castering stops and letting =0Athe wheel swing around so it was castering b
ackwards.--- =0A=0A-=0ABut if =0Asomeone's got a completed plane, w
ith nosewheel fairings, they-aren't going =0Ato take off the fairing to r
emove the stops.- How do people back up their =0Acompleted planes?--
Just plan to move only in straight =0Alines?=0A=0A=0A
Actually its very easy=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
I think you need one of two things ..... a towbar, or slow down as you
push back while you bump the nose left/right as needed. At our Grumman
conventions we have a contest ..... push an AA-1 backwards through a
winding path made of cones .... shortest time wins.
Before you take the stops out ..... make sure the wheel pants won't end
up in the prop arc. The little Grummans will .... and have.
Linn
Brian Meyette wrote:
> Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a
> trigear RV to move backwards in other than a straight line?
>
> I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV backwards
> out of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load.
> When I tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn; the
> nosewheel castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I
> eventually got it to move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel
> castering stops and letting the wheel swing around so it was castering
> backwards.
>
> But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings,
> they aren't going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do
> people back up their completed planes? Just plan to move only in
> straight lines?
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
That's easy: Convert it to a tailwheel configuration...
:-)
Matt
At 01:38 PM 9/25/2009 Friday, you wrote:
>Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a trigear RV to
move backwards in other than a straight line?
>
>I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV backwards out of
its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load. When I tried to
make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn; the nosewheel castered
until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I eventually got it to move as I wanted
it to by removing the wheel castering stops and letting the wheel swing around
so it was castering backwards.
>
>But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings, they aren't going
to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do people back up their
completed planes? Just plan to move only in straight lines?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Tow Bar
Here is the one I use:
http://store.wagaero.com/product_info.php?products_id=8119
I also order and installed this:
*RVa Tow Pin Kit
*
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009AugDecFlying.htm
Brian Meyette wrote:
> Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a
> trigear RV to move backwards in other than a straight line?
>
> I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV
> backwards out of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under
> load. When I tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't
> turn; the nosewheel castered until it hit the stop, then I was
> stuck. I eventually got it to move as I wanted it to by removing the
> wheel castering stops and letting the wheel swing around so it was
> castering backwards.
>
> But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings,
> they aren't going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do
> people back up their completed planes? Just plan to move only in
> straight lines?
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
Forgot to add the website, scroll to the bottom:
http://www.bogert-av.com/whats_new.php
--
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009AugDecFlying.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram?? |
Sure can - I'm actually working on a general system overview diagram that should
be able to describe it better than I ever could in words. Once I finish it I'll
post it on the list here.
Mike
----- Original Message ----
From: Ralph Finch <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us>
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 9:32:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: IO-320 Fuel System Diagram??
Say--can you summarize what you learned and what you will do?
Ralph Finch
Davis, California
RV-9A QB-SA
__________________________________________________________________
Make your browsing faster, safer, and easier with the new Internet Explorer 8. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | how do you back up an A model RV? |
yes, I noticed this and turned it around before starting the engine run
the prop tip was very close to the tire before I turned it back where it
shoudl be
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Denis Walsh
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 6:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
There are several ways to do it fairly easily if you are on pavement, and I
am sure others will cover it..
My warning to you is to be very careful if you removed the stops! This
could set you up for a prop strike if you happen to have the wheel ass
backwards when the prop comes around.
Denis
On Sep 25, 2009, at 3:27 , John Morgensen wrote:
1. Use a tow handle on the front wheel and steer while pushing.
or
2. Sit on the horizontal elevator to raise the front wheel off the ground.
Either way works.
john
Brian Meyette wrote:
Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a trigear RV
to move backwards in other than a straight line?
I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV backwards out
of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under load. When I
tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't turn; the nosewheel
castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck. I eventually got it to
move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel castering stops and letting the
wheel swing around so it was castering backwards.
But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings, they aren't
going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do people back up
their completed planes? Just plan to move only in straight lines?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
05:51:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Well, I would love to do that for an RV-10, but Van's is not about to
provide any support for such a beast, and I doubt the tail structure is
stressed for a tail wheel, and it would be a bitch to try to remount the
main gear mounts.
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> That's easy: Convert it to a tailwheel configuration...
>
> :-)
>
> Matt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
At first I used tow bar, then got to where I could back it including
turning.U put hands on the air intake holes, and push left to turn it
right. It take practice and go real slow at first, caution, do not let
anyone help. :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Meyette
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 15:38
Subject: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
Here's an odd question I've never seen before. How do you get a
trigear RV to move backwards in other than a straight line?
I just finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push my RV
backwards out of its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under
load. When I tried to make a turn while pushing it back, it wouldn't
turn; the nosewheel castered until it hit the stop, then I was stuck.
I eventually got it to move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel
castering stops and letting the wheel swing around so it was castering
backwards.
But if someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel fairings, they
aren't going to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do people
back up their completed planes? Just plan to move only in straight
lines?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
OMG... Get a rope!
--- On Fri, 9/25/09, Brian Meyette wrote:
> From: Brian Meyette <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, September 25, 2009, 3:38 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Here's
> an odd question I've never seen before. How
> do you get a trigear RV
> to move backwards in other than a straight
> line?
>
> I just
> finished installing my prop, and I wanted to push
> myRV backwards out of
> its corner in the hangar to do some engine runs under
> load. When I
> tried to make a turn while pushingit back, it
> wouldn't turn; the nosewheel
> castered until it hit the stop, then I was
> stuck. I eventually got
> it to move as I wanted it to by removing the wheel
> castering stops and letting
> the wheel swing around so it was castering
> backwards.
>
>
> But if
> someone's got a completed plane, with nosewheel
> fairings, theyaren't going
> to take off the fairing to remove the stops. How do
> people back up their
> completed planes? Just plan to move only in
> straight
> lines?
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
The one I was referring to did not remove his stops (and mine have not been
removed either) - he was able to push his plane in such a way as to steer
the nosewheel.
It wasn't me....I take my towbar with me in case I have to push mine
backwards.....I haven't learned the trick yet....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
>
> Someone said:
>
> " I've seen folks that can push theirs around and drive the nose wheel
> backwards"
>
> Do not try this when the aircraft is considered airworthy.
> When the Allen screw stops are removed from the top of the nose wheel fork
> allowing the nose wheel to rotate 360 degrees, the nose wheel can get into
> the prop arc. Sooner or later it will happen. With the engine not running
> some paint damage, fiberglass damage, prop damage and some level of injury
> to your pride are all quite possible.
> Should this Prop nose fork interference happen with the engine running the
> result will at the very least spoil a nose wheel, a prop and the whole of
> the rest of your day!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, September 25, 2009 1:52 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
> Database version: 6.13350
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> The one I was referring to did not remove his stops (and mine have not
> been removed either) - he was able to push his plane in such a way as to
> steer the nosewheel.
>
> It wasn't me....I take my towbar with me in case I have to push mine
> backwards.....I haven't learned the trick yet....
The only 'trick' is to push the nose in the direction that the wheel
pant is pointing. If the wheel pant isn't pointing in the right
direction, move the nose left/right until it is ..... then push in the
direction that the wheel pant is pointing. Pushing in any other
direction will make the nose gear pivot ..... making you start all over.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: how do you back up an A model RV? |
Thanks - I'll try it.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Sep 26, 2009 8:41 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: how do you back up an A model RV?
>
>
>Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>> The one I was referring to did not remove his stops (and mine have not
>> been removed either) - he was able to push his plane in such a way as to
>> steer the nosewheel.
>>
>> It wasn't me....I take my towbar with me in case I have to push mine
>> backwards.....I haven't learned the trick yet....
>The only 'trick' is to push the nose in the direction that the wheel
>pant is pointing. If the wheel pant isn't pointing in the right
>direction, move the nose left/right until it is ..... then push in the
>direction that the wheel pant is pointing. Pushing in any other
>direction will make the nose gear pivot ..... making you start all over.
>Linn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | oiling the air filter? |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I was just about to mount my FAB for what I hope is the last time, and
noticed on the air filter it says "oil before using". What does this mean?
Am I supposed to actually soak the filter with oil? What kind of oil?
Reminds me of my old, old VW beetle that used a straw-like material soaked
with oil to filter the air.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: oiling the air filter? |
Tom, order some K&N oil from vans,=C2- page 17 of the catalog. It's calle
d a=C2- "Recharge Kit.".
Walt Shipley
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 8:26:15 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV-List: oiling the air filter?
I was just about to mount my FAB for what I hope is the last time, and noti
ced on the air filter it says "oil before using". =C2-What does this mean
? =C2-Am I supposed to actually soak the filter with oil? =C2-What kind
of oil?
Reminds me of my old, old VW beetle that used a straw-like material soaked
with oil to filter the air.
--
Tom Sargent
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oiling the air filter? |
rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
> Tom, order some K&N oil from vans, page 17 of the catalog. It's
> called a "Recharge Kit.".
Or buy it at well-stocked auto parts stores.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oiling the air filter? |
From Aircraft Spruce
K&N RECHARGER FILTER
SERVICE KIT
P/N 08-00722 *$10.25*
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/neworderform.php?cmd=add&p=08-00722&q=1>
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/wishlist.php?action=add&p=08-00722&q=1>
K&N FilterChargers use a specially formulated oil to attract and
suspend dirt to the cotton-gauze filtration surface. Over time, dirt
accumulates on the filter and airflow can be reduced. This is where the
K&N ReCharger Filter Care Service Kit comes to the rescue. Included are
a cleaning solution and dirt-attracting oil, both of which are
formulated specifically for K&N's cotton-gauze filter media.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Check out the latest on my website at:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/2009AugDecFlying.htm
thomas sargent wrote:
> I was just about to mount my FAB for what I hope is the last time, and
> noticed on the air filter it says "oil before using". What does this
> mean? Am I supposed to actually soak the filter with oil? What kind
> of oil?
>
> Reminds me of my old, old VW beetle that used a straw-like material
> soaked with oil to filter the air.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: oiling the air filter? |
Also, do not "soak" the filter or you will have oil dripping out it into your bottom
cowl for weeks. Apply the oil sparingly to all the folds and let it penetrate
for awhile, then check for bare spots and go over them again. You can get
the K&N oil in a spray can at most automotive supply stores and that makes it
much easier to coat the element thoroughly without over doing it. Just a tip
learned the hard way.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 619 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 5:47:03 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV-List: oiling the air filter?
Tom, order some K&N oil from vans, page 17 of the catalog. It's called a "Recharge
Kit.".
Walt Shipley
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 8:26:15 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV-List: oiling the air filter?
I was just about to mount my FAB for what I hope is the last time, and noticed
on the air filter it says "oil before using". What does this mean? Am I supposed
to actually soak the filter with oil? What kind of oil?
Reminds me of my old, old VW beetle that used a straw-like material soaked with
oil to filter the air.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | oiling the air filter? |
Check out the K&N website for info on how to oil and also clean the
filter. Most Auto parts houses will have the oil from K&N for a much
better price than /Van=99s .
Don Van Santen RV7 flying
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 5:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: oiling the air filter?
I was just about to mount my FAB for what I hope is the last time, and
noticed on the air filter it says "oil before using". What does this
mean? Am I supposed to actually soak the filter with oil? What kind of
oil?
Reminds me of my old, old VW beetle that used a straw-like material
soaked with oil to filter the air.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | how do you back up an A model RV? |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Oh, how I long for the days of pushing around a 2 place RV. The -10 is beginning
to take more than I got, especially when pulling up slight inclines to start.
Can't father time come with a free Power Tug.
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oiling the air filter? |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the info. I just bought the K&N recharge kit at Checker Auto
parts for $12.
On Sat, Sep 26, 2009 at 6:27 PM, Don wrote:
> Check out the K&N website for info on how to oil and also clean the
> filter. Most Auto parts houses will have the oil from K&N for a much bet
ter
> price than /Van=99s .
>
> Don Van Santen RV7 flying
>
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PeterHunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
Yes, coned shaped boots on the aileron pushrods where the pushrods exit the
fuselage into the wing are very important to cutting down cold drafts. I
made mine out of sail cloth material available at the local sailing/marine
store. Use a pipe clamp to hold the small end of the cone to the pushrod and
make a large donut ring to hold the large end to the fuselage opening to the
wing. The flexible cone collapses/expands like an accordion when the
pushrods are moved.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Fuel System Diagram |
Hi All,
Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for those who are interested.
It's for an IO-320 with the Precision Airmotive fuel injection system. It's
very simple - a lot more simplistic than I thought the whole system would be.
I still haven't decided if I'm going with the Van's boost pump kit or the one
from Andair yet. Any suggestions? :)
Mike
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
My plans are similar but I don't understand the benefit of the gas collator.
John Morgensen
RV4 - Flying
RV9A - wiring
Grumman AA1B-150 For Sale
Mike De Lange wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for those who are interested.
It's for an IO-320 with the Precision Airmotive fuel injection system. It's
very simple - a lot more simplistic than I thought the whole system would be.
I still haven't decided if I'm going with the Van's boost pump kit or the
one from Andair yet. Any suggestions? :)
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Davis <rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Hi Mike,
I suggest that you eliminate the gascolator. It is totally
unnecessary and a real source of potential leaks.
It cannot be the lowest point in the system, the lowest points are
the tank drains, and the filter will take care
of any debris. Personally, I would put the flow transducer inside
the firewall down stream of
the boost pump. This gives you a better chance to get a straight run
up stream of it, helps to eliminate
bubbles. This set-up has worked well for me through 4 RV's
Bill
On Sep 28, 2009, at 9:23 AM, Mike De Lange wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for those who are
> interested. It's for an IO-320 with the Precision Airmotive fuel
> injection system. It's very simple - a lot more simplistic than I
> thought the whole system would be. I still haven't decided if I'm
> going with the Van's boost pump kit or the one from Andair yet.
> Any suggestions? :)
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
| From: | peter laurence <peterlaurence6(at)gmail.com> |
Mike,
I made my fuel manifold for my RV9A. Bought an Auto racing pump, which in
my opinion is as good as Van's. I picked up the check valve and the pressure
valve at Sun N Fun a couple of years ago.I think the AN fittings ended up
costing more that the rest of the components.
However, After seeing Andair's pump, I going going with it and eliminating
all those fittings and parts.
Peter
On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 9:23 AM, Mike De Lange wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for those who are
> interested. It's for an IO-320 with the Precision Airmotive fuel injection
> system. It's very simple - a lot more simplistic than I thought the whole
> system would be. I still haven't decided if I'm going with the Van's boost
> pump kit or the one from Andair yet. Any suggestions? :)
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Replacing Canopy - Bucktails? |
| From: | J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
Well, my canopy cracked - and I'm now replacing it.
What have folks done with the bucktails inside the canopy frame? Each of the
canopy frame sides, top and back pieces are closed so the bucktails fall
inside when you drill off the canopy. I'm thinking of drilling another hole
in each piece so I can get the bucktails out. Otherwise it'll sound like
maracas with all the bucktails shaking around.
Thoughts?
"Jerry" 106 hrs on RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <rgf(at)dcn.davis.ca.us> |
| Subject: | Fuel System Diagram |
Thanks for this, I hope to be at this stage in a year...or two. Or longer,
well, I hope to be there.
Ralph Finch
Davis, California
RV-9A QB-SA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike De Lange
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 6:23 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel System Diagram
Hi All,
Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for those who are
interested. It's for an IO-320 with the Precision Airmotive fuel injection
system. It's very simple - a lot more simplistic than I thought the whole
system would be. I still haven't decided if I'm going with the Van's boost
pump kit or the one from Andair yet. Any suggestions? :)
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Edwards <flyboyedwards(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | wiring in a music input |
I have an Icom IC-A200 radio with a sigtronics SPA-400. I would like to wir
e in an input jack for an Ipod. Can anyone advise on how to do this? I don'
t have a jack for the Ipod yet, because I don't know which one to pick.
-
The airplane is all complete, and the wiring in done. I'd just like to add
the input.
Any wiring guru's out there?
-
Thanks in advance,
Jason Edwards
RV-4 N28EW
Richland Center, Wisconsin.=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wiring in a music input |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
You know that's not stereo, Jason. The SPA-400 is mono and you'd have to
get a RES-401 to go stereo, or upgrade to their SCI-S4...or, move over to PS
Engineering and get their PM-3000 model. Did you want to stay mono?
John J
On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 6:34 PM, Jason Edwards wrote:
> I have an Icom IC-A200 radio with a sigtronics SPA-400. I would like to
> wire in an input jack for an Ipod. Can anyone advise on how to do this? I
> don't have a jack for the Ipod yet, because I don't know which one to pick.
>
> The airplane is all complete, and the wiring in done. I'd just like to add
> the input.
> Any wiring guru's out there?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jason Edwards
> RV-4 N28EW
> Richland Center, Wisconsin.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Mike De Lange wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for those who are interested.
It's for an IO-320 with the Precision Airmotive fuel injection system. It's
very simple - a lot more simplistic than I thought the whole system would be.
I still haven't decided if I'm going with the Van's boost pump kit or the
one from Andair yet. Any suggestions? :)
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
Uh... I know that the Andair pump is bound to be perfect (at around 600
American dollars), but the specs say 16gph @ 25psi. Any good running
180-200hp Lyc will flow more than that at sea level full power.....
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Replacing Canopy - Bucktails? |
Tilt the frame to gather them together. Squirt some epoxy or other glue thru
the nearest hole. Let dry and carry on.
Regards,
Greg Young
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J Riffel
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 7:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Replacing Canopy - Bucktails?
Well, my canopy cracked - and I'm now replacing it.
What have folks done with the bucktails inside the canopy frame? Each of the
canopy frame sides, top and back pieces are closed so the bucktails fall
inside when you drill off the canopy. I'm thinking of drilling another hole
in each piece so I can get the bucktails out. Otherwise it'll sound like
maracas with all the bucktails shaking around.
Thoughts?
"Jerry" 106 hrs on RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
I'm always baffled by this same misleading statement that has been trotted
out on the RV List time and time again. Read my lips, "a gascolator
doesn't have to be the lowest point in the system in order to do its job".
Where did this crazy idea come from? Look at a gascolator closely and
pretend you understand the physics of a heavier and more viscous fluid (water)
settling out by gravity with the help of a screen tight enough to let the
lighter less viscous fluid (fuel) preferentially float/flow thru. All a
gascolator needs to work is to be installed correctly (with the bowl facing
down and the curtis valve accesible for draining).
You don't have to shake a rattle, do a chant or pray.
It's science.
-GV
In a message dated 9/28/2009 10:12:53 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com writes:
I suggest that you eliminate the gascolator. It is totally
unnecessary and a real source of potential leaks.
It cannot be the lowest point in the system, the lowest points are
the tank drains, and the filter will take care
of any debris.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stan VanGrunsven" <stan(at)vangrunsven.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A |
Hi Ian,
When we first flew the 6-A, in early spring, it leaked something awful.
When the first passenger flew, his jacket sleeve was being tugged at by
the air leaking OUT at the upper rail where we had not sealed the slider
canopy. What I'm saying is that the low pressure over the wing was
pulling air out of the cabin from every available hole. When we sealed
the canopy sides above the wing most of the other areas were much more
managable. We used some "V" seal with the opening blocking the
direction of flow which is Out above the wing and IN along the rear
skirt. Some other type seals also work, like "P" seals where the "bulb"
is flexable enough move in the direction of air flow and get pushed
against skirt or skin.
I hope this helps; many builders have never dealt with this area first.
Best wishes,
Stan VanGrunsven RV-6A April 1998
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2009 10:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Leaky air inlets on RV-9A
My RV-9A is starting to chill my wife! As the weather gets cooler
we've noticed significant amounts of air coming in through the control
stick holes and also out of the edges of the mounting of the eyeball
vents. The Van's drawing calls for the removal of the fourth hole on
the mounting (the one you would catch your leg on) and this seems to
result in a slightly open joint, especially under air pressure. What
have others done about both problems. I realize putting a boot over
the stick will help that area, but unfortunately I just bought nice
looking automotive gear shift boots that have lots of fancy little holes
in them! Any ideas for what material would be light, flexible and
draughtproof??
Beautiful flying day!
Ian Brown
Bromont, QC, C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
My 200 hp IO 360 Mooney flows about 16.8 to 17.5 on takeoff depending on
temperature and how close to sea level elevation. 16 gph capacity would
be more than enough for 160 hp IO320.
Charlie England wrote:
>
> Mike De Lange wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for those who are
>> interested. It's for an IO-320 with the Precision Airmotive fuel
>> injection system. It's very simple - a lot more simplistic than I
>> thought the whole system would be. I still haven't decided if I'm
>> going with the Van's boost pump kit or the one from Andair yet. Any
>> suggestions? :)
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________________________
>> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
> Uh... I know that the Andair pump is bound to be perfect (at around 600
> American dollars), but the specs say 16gph @ 25psi. Any good running
> 180-200hp Lyc will flow more than that at sea level full power.....
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
And you are going to guarantee that an engine pump designed to generate
25 psi isn't going to have enough suction to lift the
gascolator(designed for low pressure carb systems) valve off its seat
and suck air??? Why do you need another water separator when the tanks
should do the job at the quick drains?
Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> I'm always baffled by this same misleading statement that has been
> trotted out on the RV List time and time again. Read my lips, "a
> gascolator doesn't have to be the lowest point in the system in order to
> do its job".
>
> Where did this crazy idea come from? Look at a gascolator closely and
> pretend you understand the physics of a heavier and more viscous fluid
> (water) settling out by gravity with the help of a screen tight enough
> to let the lighter less viscous fluid (fuel) preferentially float/flow
> thru. All a gascolator needs to work is to be installed correctly (with
> the bowl facing down and the curtis valve accesible for draining).
>
> You don't have to shake a rattle, do a chant or pray.
>
> It's science.
>
> -GV
>
> In a message dated 9/28/2009 10:12:53 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com writes:
>
> I suggest that you eliminate the gascolator. It is totally
> unnecessary and a real source of potential leaks.
> It cannot be the lowest point in the system, the lowest points are
> the tank drains, and the filter will take care
> of any debris.
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Mike,
Most folks don't use a gascolator on a fuel injected engine. Unless you plan to
use an Andair gascolator, most others are NOT designed for the sealing surfaces
to withstand the 25 psi of a fuel injected system. That means you'll probably
have fuel leaks with the electric pump turned on.
I would suggest that you do one of three things.
#1 Simply eliminate the gascolator
#2 Swap places between your gascolator and the 6ILA fuel filter.
#3 Install a gascolator [or 4ILA fuel filter] in each wing root and eliminate the
fuel filter and gascolator in the positions shown in your diagram. The 4ILA
is a slightly smaller version of the 6ILA fuel filter. It is easier to fit into
the wing root area. The Flow Ezy 6ILA is sold by both Vans and Airflow Performance.
RV-9A builder Chris Heitman's company, Pegasus Auto Racing carries the
4ILA filter. See
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3469
Charlie Kuss
> Mike De Lange wrote:
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram for
> those who are interested. It's for an IO-320 with the
> Precision Airmotive fuel injection system. It's very
> simple - a lot more simplistic than I thought the whole
> system would be. I still haven't decided if I'm going
> with the Van's boost pump kit or the one from Andair
> yet. Any suggestions? :)
> >
> >
> > Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring in a music input |
Jason,
Another option for a stereo intercom is the Flightcom 403LSA. See
http://www.flightcom.net/intercoms/403lsa-intercom.php
Charlie Kuss
--- On Mon, 9/28/09, Jason Edwards wrote:
> From: Jason Edwards <flyboyedwards(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: wiring in a music input
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, September 28, 2009, 9:34 PM
> I
> have an Icom IC-A200 radio with a sigtronics SPA-400. I
> would like to wire in an input jack for an Ipod. Can anyone
> advise on how to do this? I don't have a jack for the
> Ipod yet, because I don't know which one to pick.
>
> The airplane is all complete, and the wiring in done.
> I'd just like to add the input.
> Any wiring guru's out there?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jason Edwards
> RV-4 N28EW
> Richland Center, Wisconsin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Mike,
I would strongly suggest you read the post on the VAF WWW site by Don Rivera [owner
of Airflow Performance] at the link below. See
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=354763&postcount=4
The entire thread can be found below
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=47463
Charlie Kuss
--- On Tue, 9/29/09, Charles Kuss wrote:
> From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel System Diagram
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, September 29, 2009, 5:35 AM
> Mike,
> Most folks don't use a gascolator on a fuel injected
> engine. Unless you plan to use an Andair gascolator, most
> others are NOT designed for the sealing surfaces to
> withstand the 25 psi of a fuel injected system. That means
> you'll probably have fuel leaks with the electric pump
> turned on.
> I would suggest that you do one of three things.
> #1 Simply eliminate the gascolator
> #2 Swap places between your gascolator and the 6ILA fuel
> filter.
> #3 Install a gascolator [or 4ILA fuel filter] in each wing
> root and eliminate the fuel filter and gascolator in the
> positions shown in your diagram. The 4ILA is a slightly
> smaller version of the 6ILA fuel filter. It is easier to fit
> into the wing root area. The Flow Ezy 6ILA is sold by both
> Vans and Airflow Performance. RV-9A builder Chris Heitman's
> company, Pegasus Auto Racing carries the 4ILA filter. See
>
> http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3469
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
> > Mike De Lange wrote:
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > Here's a preliminary fuel system overview diagram
> for
> > those who are interested. It's for an IO-320 with
> the
> > Precision Airmotive fuel injection system. It's
> very
> > simple - a lot more simplistic than I thought the
> whole
> > system would be. I still haven't decided if I'm
> going
> > with the Van's boost pump kit or the one from Andair
> > yet. Any suggestions? :)
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ronburnett(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring in a music input |
I bought the Softcom Stereo Icom and it comes with a wiring harness for just over
$200. Not yet flying but it is almost installed.
Ron Burnett
RV-6A finishing
Do not archieve
---- Charles Kuss wrote:
============
Jason,
Another option for a stereo intercom is the Flightcom 403LSA. See
http://www.flightcom.net/intercoms/403lsa-intercom.php
Charlie Kuss
--- On Mon, 9/28/09, Jason Edwards wrote:
> From: Jason Edwards <flyboyedwards(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: RV-List: wiring in a music input
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Monday, September 28, 2009, 9:34 PM
> I
> have an Icom IC-A200 radio with a sigtronics SPA-400. I
> would like to wire in an input jack for an Ipod. Can anyone
> advise on how to do this? I don't have a jack for the
> Ipod yet, because I don't know which one to pick.
>
> The airplane is all complete, and the wiring in done.
> I'd just like to add the input.
> Any wiring guru's out there?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jason Edwards
> RV-4 N28EW
> Richland Center, Wisconsin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
>Why do you need another water separator when the tanks
>should do the job at the quick drains?
Although one can argue they "should" do the job, I have drained quite a bit of
trash and water out of gascolators over the years. Especially from planes with
flush fuel caps. Throw in some acro to stir things up, and now there is water
in the fuel injection system.
To each his own, but my money (and rear end) is on the simple physics of a gascolator.
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
> To each his own, but my money (and rear end) is on the simple physics of a
> gascolator.
Simple physics of the gascolator may get one killed while in sustained
inverted flight!
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike De Lange <squishyoleo(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
I've heard good points and bad about the usage of a gascolator from many people.
But regardless of what I may think about it one way or the other, here in Canada
it's law to install one so I really have no choice.
As for the placement of the fuel flow transducer, if your boost pump is off does
that affect your fuel flow reading at all? I can see the benefit of putting
it where you suggest since it also eliminates another run through the firewall.
Mike
----- Original Message ----
From: William Davis <rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 1:03:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel System Diagram
Hi Mike,
I suggest that you eliminate the gascolator. It is totally unnecessary and a real
source of potential leaks.
It cannot be the lowest point in the system, the lowest points are the tank drains,
and the filter will take care
of any debris. Personally, I would put the flow transducer inside the firewall
down stream of
the boost pump. This gives you a better chance to get a straight run up stream
of it, helps to eliminate
bubbles. This set-up has worked well for me through 4 RV's
Bill
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Davis <rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Mike,
If you gotta have that thing, then figure out some way to mount it
upstream of the boost pump. The boost pump being on or off
will not affect the fuel flow reading other than a momentary blip
when it goes on.
Bill
On Sep 29, 2009, at 12:28 PM, Mike De Lange wrote:
>
> I've heard good points and bad about the usage of a gascolator from
> many people. But regardless of what I may think about it one way
> or the other, here in Canada it's law to install one so I really
> have no choice.
>
> As for the placement of the fuel flow transducer, if your boost
> pump is off does that affect your fuel flow reading at all? I can
> see the benefit of putting it where you suggest since it also
> eliminates another run through the firewall.
>
> Mike
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: William Davis <rvpilot(at)embarqmail.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 1:03:09 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel System Diagram
>
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> I suggest that you eliminate the gascolator. It is totally
> unnecessary and a real source of potential leaks.
> It cannot be the lowest point in the system, the lowest points are
> the tank drains, and the filter will take care
> of any debris. Personally, I would put the flow transducer inside
> the firewall down stream of
> the boost pump. This gives you a better chance to get a straight
> run up stream of it, helps to eliminate
> bubbles. This set-up has worked well for me through 4 RV's
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Bob-
Please explain how this would occur provided that the device were properly
installed and purged of water before flight.
-GV
In a message dated 9/29/2009 9:28:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
panamared505(at)brier.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Panama Red"
> To each his own, but my money (and rear end) is on the simple physics of
a
> gascolator.
Simple physics of the gascolator may get one killed while in sustained
inverted flight!
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Tip-up Canopy Lift Lock |
If you have a tip-up canopy on your RV, there is a lock that can
attached to the gas strut. It prevents the canopy from slamming shut
from wind gusts or prop wash. To lower the canopy, slide the locking
rod away from the body of the gas cylinder.
It's available from Advance Auto Parts for $8.49, Part number 8200.
Google "pylon lift lock" or check the following link...
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_LIFT-L
OCK-Pylon_6070434-P_N3608_A%7CGRP2037
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Plexiglass - remove and re-install - RV-9A Tip-up |
Guys,
I need to replace the skin on the tip-up canopy on my RV-9A. I may also
have to replace the front canopy weldment assembly. The Plexiglas has
already been fiber glassed in front.
Has anyone been able to remove the Plexiglas and re-install it again? A
local RV builder has replaced his cracked Plexiglas by using a thin,
narrow sharpened putty knife between the fiberglass fairing and the
skin. He also use a Dremel grinder to expose the front clips holding
the Plexiglas.
ANY suggestions would be very welcome...
Thanks.
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Bob-
Please explain how this would occur provided that the device were
properly installed and purged of water before flight.
-GV
In a message dated 9/29/2009 9:28:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
panamared505(at)brier.net writes:
> To each his own, but my money (and rear end) is on the simple
physics of a
> gascolator.
Simple physics of the gascolator may get one killed while in
sustained
inverted flight!
Bob
I agree if properly installed and the entire fuel system is purged of
water prior to flight. So then what is the purpose of a gascolator?
In my fuel injected system and most others that I know of, there is a
very fine fuel filter prior to the high pressure boost pump, to protect
the boost pump. Therefore if one had a gascolator after the fuel
filter, the gascolator would not filter out any large debris. On the
other hand, if one did not have a fuel filter prior to the cascolator
the possible debris caught by the gascolator may then end up back in the
fuel flow once gravity is reversed in reference to the gascolator
(inverted flight).
I assume, but may be wrong, if the gascolator did collect water while
upright, then wouldn't this water then enter the fuel system while
inverted? I have always thought that the force that made the gascolator
work was gravity, reverse gravity and it does not work? How many pilots
are able to do an engine restart while inverted? The obvious answer is
to roll upright and attempt to start the engine, but trust me, when the
engine quits while inverted, it gets real exciting, especially if one is
foolish enough to be at a critically low altitude.
In my 30 years of flying, I have only found water in the fuel once.
That was after I left the RV out in the rain with the fuel caps removed
from the tank (a long story). I keep looking for water in my tanks,
especially since I hanger my RV with tanks 1/4 to 1/2 full.
Disappointed am I, that l find no water in the tanks. I have found the
entire outside of the aircraft wet from sweat/humidity on rainy days
while in the hanger. I have often opined that the RV would be dryer if
I parked it in the rain rather than in the hanger! But still no water
in the fuel tanks!
Back to the original question, if there is no water in the fuel system
and the fuel filter eliminates all the fuel debris in the system, what
is the purpose of the gascolator?
Bob
RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexiglass - remove and re-install - RV-9A Tip-up |
Joe, Look at your pictures online, Chapter 100, everything looks good,
however, I don't see a photo of the tip-up. Want is the problem with
the skin?
Jim
RV9a building
----- Original Message -----
From: Joe & Jan Connell
To: RV-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 8:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Plexiglass - remove and re-install - RV-9A Tip-up
Guys,
I need to replace the skin on the tip-up canopy on my RV-9A. I may
also have to replace the front canopy weldment assembly. The Plexiglas
has already been fiber glassed in front.
Has anyone been able to remove the Plexiglas and re-install it again?
A local RV builder has replaced his cracked Plexiglas by using a thin,
narrow sharpened putty knife between the fiberglass fairing and the
skin. He also use a Dremel grinder to expose the front clips holding
the Plexiglas.
ANY suggestions would be very welcome...
Thanks.
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: was Fuel System Diagram, now gascolator redux |
>> To each his own, but my money (and rear end) is on the simple physics of
a
>> gascolator.
>
>Simple physics of the gascolator may get one killed while in sustained
>inverted flight!
>
>Bob
>RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
I'd sure like to know what you are basing that commentary on. Each of the
5 or so Decathlons we ran through our aerobatic program lo those many years
ago had a gascolator, and we spent a significant amount of time inverted
with each student. Never once had a problem with any of them. The
gascolators, that is...
WRT to the pressure issue and the potential for leaks, mine is located in
the left wing root and is plumbed between the selector valve and the boost
pump. This makes for easy and convenient draining through a hole in the
bottom of the wing gap seal / fairing. It also keeps it away from the
engine compartment heat, as well as the possibility of shearing it off the
bottom of the firewall in a forced / crash landing.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roger Embree <rembree(at)sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Panama Red wrote:
>
> Bob-
>
> Please explain how this would occur provided that the device were
> properly installed and purged of water before flight.
>
> -GV
>
> In a message dated 9/29/2009 9:28:37 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> panamared505(at)brier.net writes:
>
> >
>
>> To each his own, but my money (and rear end) is on the simple
> physics of a
>> gascolator.
>
> Simple physics of the gascolator may get one killed while in
> sustained
> inverted flight!
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> I agree if properly installed and the entire fuel system is purged of
> water prior to flight. So then what is the purpose of a gascolator?
>
>
>
> In my fuel injected system and most others that I know of, there is a
> very fine fuel filter prior to the high pressure boost pump, to
> protect the boost pump. Therefore if one had a gascolator after the
> fuel filter, the gascolator would not filter out any large debris. On
> the other hand, if one did not have a fuel filter prior to the
> cascolator the possible debris caught by the gascolator may then end
> up back in the fuel flow once gravity is reversed in reference to the
> gascolator (inverted flight).
>
>
>
> I assume, but may be wrong, if the gascolator did collect water while
> upright, then wouldn't this water then enter the fuel system while
> inverted? I have always thought that the force that made the
> gascolator work was gravity, reverse gravity and it does not work?
> How many pilots are able to do an engine restart while inverted? The
> obvious answer is to roll upright and attempt to start the engine, but
> trust me, when the engine quits while inverted, it gets real exciting,
> especially if one is foolish enough to be at a critically low altitude.
>
>
>
> In my 30 years of flying, I have only found water in the fuel once.
> That was after I left the RV out in the rain with the fuel caps
> removed from the tank (a long story). I keep looking for water in my
> tanks, especially since I hanger my RV with tanks 1/4 to 1/2 full.
> Disappointed am I, that l find no water in the tanks. I have found
> the entire outside of the aircraft wet from sweat/humidity on rainy
> days while in the hanger. I have often opined that the RV would be
> dryer if I parked it in the rain rather than in the hanger! But still
> no water in the fuel tanks!
>
>
>
> Back to the original question, if there is no water in the fuel system
> and the fuel filter eliminates all the fuel debris in the system, what
> is the purpose of the gascolator?
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> RV6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
>
We had this discussion a long time ago.
Rain does not have to be the source of the water. Water that is
dissolved in gasoline forms ice crystals when exposed to very cold
temperatures. It is difficult to remove all of the ice crystals through
the drains, and not possible if they form while flying. Small ice
crystals will plug filters but not gascolators. Gary Legare experimented
with putting water in a filter and freezing it. He said that he was
still able to flow fuel through the frozen filter but that was not a
true model of ice crystals being deposited on the surface of a filter.
Forgetting about acro or any other unusual circumstances, very cold
temperatures equals the need for a gascolator.
Roger Embree
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Diagram |
Bob-
>I assume, but may be wrong, if the gascolator did collect water while
>upright, then wouldn't this water then enter the fuel system while
>inverted?
Nope. The last gascolator I was in had a screen that would protect against
that, as well as the outflow port being configured as a bit of a standpipe
when inverted.
> but trust me, when the
>engine quits while inverted, it gets real exciting....
That was a standard training exercise.
>In my 30 years of flying, I have only found water in the fuel once.
Sounds like you've been in the enviable position of only flying airplanes
that've been hangared.
>Back to the original question, if there is no water in the fuel system
>and the fuel filter eliminates all the fuel debris in the system, what
>is the purpose of the gascolator?
To the first part, water can be laying along the juncture of ribs and the
bottom skin. It won't always readily move to the sump, and you can tap
clear samples on preflight and still have water and other trash in the
tanks. Acro, or even the vibration of normal flight can cause it to
migrate to the pick ups. This was a documented issue with certain
certificated aircraft, especially one with flush fuel caps.
To the second part, the filter doesn't eliminate the debris, it collects it
at one non-drainable point. I can't imagine a scenario where there'd be
enough trash to plug a filter, but water is another story.
Most people will never experience power loss due to contaminants, but it
has happened. Most people won't experience a spar failure, but I still
prefer to wear a parachute while flying acro. To each his own, as long as
an objective risk analysis has been made.
glen matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Edwards <flyboyedwards(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wiring in a music input |
John,
At this point, I guess mono would be fine. I'd like to upgrade to stereo, b
ut I'm trying to work out a few bugs in the airplane first.
The Icom has audio inputs, but I'm not sure if that's where I should hook u
p, or somehow go to the intercom.
-
I just bought the plane, and it's a nice ship. I just have to work out the
bugs..............and then add the creature comforts. Just thought I'd do t
he research, and maybe get the terminal wired into it now.
Thanks for the help so far,
Jason.
--- On Mon, 9/28/09, John Jessen wrote:
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: wiring in a music input
Date: Monday, September 28, 2009, 9:09 PM
You know that's not stereo, Jason.- The SPA-400 is mono and you'd have to
get a RES-401 to go stereo, or upgrade to their SCI-S4...or, move over to
PS Engineering and get their PM-3000 model.- Did you want to stay mono?
-
John J
On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 6:34 PM, Jason Edwards wr
ote:
I have an Icom IC-A200 radio with a sigtronics SPA-400. I would like to wir
e in an input jack for an Ipod. Can anyone advise on how to do this? I don'
t have a jack for the Ipod yet, because I don't know which one to pick.
-
The airplane is all complete, and the wiring in done. I'd just like to add
the input.
Any wiring guru's out there?
-
Thanks in advance,
Jason Edwards
RV-4 N28EW
Richland Center, Wisconsin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hartzell BA Prop vs. Composite Prop |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
It's time to drop the dollars on a prop for my 8A project. Has anyone
seen a real performance comparison between the two blade Hartzell
Blended Airfoil prop and the two blade Hartzell Composite Prop? (Both
74").
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell BA Prop vs. Composite Prop |
After doing multiple runs on multiple days in my RV-4 with the new Hartzel
l
composite two blade propeller I have found the following:
RV-4
180HP IO-360 with one PMAG
Pilot Only
Altitude 5,000 ft
2500 RPM
Full throttle 24.9=9D Manifold
50 deg ROP
Fuel flow 11.3 GPH
I used the autopilot to fly a ground track N, E, S, W for 2 to 3 minutes
per leg and then put the data in the NTPS spread sheet to calculate the
TAS.
Result = 178.8 KTS
I have replaced the composite prop with a new Hartzell D-Twist Scimitar
metal prop and should have a comparison next week.
Just for fun I decided to do the same test in my RV-10 with the Hartzell
three blade composite prop. I only made one flight to test the numbers an
d
will repeat it a number of times to verify the results.
RV-10
IO-540 with one Light Speed Ignition
Pilot Only
Altitude 5,000 ft
2500 RPM
Full throttle 25.2=9D Manifold
Result = 176.3 KTS
Rob Hickman
N401RH RV-4 180HP
N402RH RV-10 260HP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Side Cowl Pin Size... |
Dear Listers,
I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and came out very
nice. I was able to get the seams all around very nice and tight.
Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top cowl firewall
pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in nicely and I've got no
complaints.
However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling pieces, the plans
call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using an undersized pin. I am
able to get the side pins in and out with a drill but its a lot of work, especially
going in, and it just seems like this is going to wear out the hinges after
a while.
In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of hinges in the three-foot
lengths required for the cowling sides. There are two, 3' long AN257-P3
pieces and two, 3' long that seems to be steel instead
of aluminium like the AN257-P3. The pin inside of these steel hinges is about
2/3 the size of the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my logical thinking
lead me to think that you're suppose just use the pins from the steel hinges on
the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I reading this right? Or
is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel hinges? I don't know what
else to do with them.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
Snorkel Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and counting)...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Side Cowl Pin Size... |
Matt:
I used the regular hinge pins (not undersized). If you taper them on
the tips and dampen a rag slightly with ps 2 oil and then wipe the
hinge pin, it will be easier to push into place. It gets easier after
a few hours of flight. The first few times it works better with two
people -- one pushing and the other tapping along the path of the pin
with the heal of his hand as the pin passes through.
Good luck
dave@RAL 125 hrs 7A
On Oct 2, 2009, at 6:54 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and
> came out very nice. I was able to get the seams all around very
> nice and tight.
>
> Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top
> cowl firewall pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in
> nicely and I've got no complaints.
>
> However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling
> pieces, the plans call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using
> an undersized pin. I am able to get the side pins in and out with a
> drill but its a lot of work, especially going in, and it just seems
> like this is going to wear out the hinges after a while.
>
> In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of
> hinges in the three-foot lengths required for the cowling sides.
> There are two, 3' long AN257-P3 pieces and two, 3' long of hinge> that seems to be steel instead of aluminium like the AN257-
> P3. The pin inside of these steel hinges is about 2/3 the size of
> the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my logical thinking lead me to
> think that you're suppose just use the pins from the steel hinges on
> the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I reading this
> right? Or is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel
> hinges? I don't know what else to do with them.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
> Snorkel Intake Installation & Governor Recabling (1700 hours and
> counting)...
> <2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation Complete
> (8).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And Installation
> Complete (9).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting And
> Installation Complete (11).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling Fitting
> And Installation Complete (1).jpg><2009.09.15 - RV-8 - Cowling
> Fitting And Installation Complete (2).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <chasb(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Side Cowl Pin Size |
On my RV-6, all of the hinge pins are normal sized except the top firewall hinge.
All of my pins fit easily except the same side pins that you are having problems
with. As noted in follow on messages, the pins initially fit very tight
but after a few hours of flying, they become loose and easy to install. However,
a couple of suggestions:
Make sure all the eyelets in both the top and bottom cowl hinges are perfectly
straight. Insert the pin in only the top cowl side hinge and check for ease of
installation. Carefully adjust any eyelet that causes even the slightest binding.
Repeat for both hinges on top and bottom cowl. You can also polish the hinge
pins using a ScotchBrite pad. Oil the pins as suggested by others or use a
graphite powder.
Good luck.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Side Cowl Pin Size...
Dear Listers,
I'm happy to report that the cowling on the 'ol RV-8 is complete and came out
very
nice. I was able to get the seams all around very nice and tight.
Here's my question. On the bottom cowl firewall pins and the top cowl firewall
pins, the plans call out undersized pins. These go in nicely and I've got no
complaints.
However, on the side pins that join the top and bottom cowling pieces, the plans
call out an AN257-P3 hinge and don't mention using an undersized pin. I am
able to get the side pins in and out with a drill but its a lot of work,
especially
going in, and it just seems like this is going to wear out the hinges after
a while.
In the kit, I noticed that Van's shipped two different types of hinges in the
three-foot
lengths required for the cowling sides. There are two, 3' long AN257-P3
pieces and two, 3' long that seems to be steel instead
of aluminium like the AN257-P3. The pin inside of these steel hinges is about
2/3 the size of the pin in the AN257-P3 hinges. So, my logical thinking
lead me to think that you're suppose just use the pins from the steel hinges on
the sides for easier pin insertion/extraction. Am I reading this right? Or
is it just a coincidence that they sent the steel hinges? I don't know what
else to do with them.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Paint (not primer:-) ) for the cabin |
Well, it's time to glue the canopy & back glass in my tipup -7, & I need
to paint the interior before the back glass gets glued in. For a variety
of reasons, I used NAPA 7220 self-etch primer prior to assembly on all
parts that show, in the baggage area and cockpit. Can anyone recommend a
tough paint for the interior that will work over the 7220?
Desired features are: sticks to 7220, tough, ease of application, and
high probability of survival during/after application (not necessarily
in that order).
I'll probably go with just paint & upholstered seats, & will use a very
light gray since exterior color has not yet been selected. I thought
about one of the automotive 'trunk' paints, but don't want a speckled look.
Anyone been there/done that with some recommendations?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint (not primer:-) ) for the cabin |
I just finished using Sherwin Williams water-based JetFlex on top of
7220. I did lots of adhesion tests and absolutely no problem. There
are a new quirks (using a larger diameter nozzle for your gun and
cleaning with water and then MEK). You can read more about my
experience in our September newsletter:
http://www.mnwing.org/Sept2009.pdf
or contact me off list.
Doug Weiler
pres., MN Wing
Charlie England wrote:
>
> Well, it's time to glue the canopy & back glass in my tipup -7, & I
> need to paint the interior before the back glass gets glued in. For a
> variety of reasons, I used NAPA 7220 self-etch primer prior to
> assembly on all parts that show, in the baggage area and cockpit. Can
> anyone recommend a tough paint for the interior that will work over
> the 7220?
>
> Desired features are: sticks to 7220, tough, ease of application, and
> high probability of survival during/after application (not necessarily
> in that order).
>
> I'll probably go with just paint & upholstered seats, & will use a
> very light gray since exterior color has not yet been selected. I
> thought about one of the automotive 'trunk' paints, but don't want a
> speckled look.
>
> Anyone been there/done that with some recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Calling all Airflow Performance FI users |
If you have an AFP Fuel Injection System on your 0-320, 0-360 engine with
wood or metal prop I'd like to talk to you. Other than adjusting the idle
mixture and throttle stop on the fuel controller, if you have had any
problems whatsoever, ANY PROBLEMS, then I would like to hear about them (and
the solution if any). If it is ok, could you please email me your phone
number so I can chat with you? I don't really want to go into the why here.
Suffice to say that my airplane just went through its first annual condition
inspection, has very few hours on it and I'm very unhappy about the reason
for that. Thanks for your time and help.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Tarpon Sprgs, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Calling all Airflow Performance FI users |
Dean=2C
You know that Joe's plane is a O-320 with the AFP fuel injeciton system. W
e've spoken before. If you still have my number give me a call.
Mike Robertson
> From: dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Calling all Airflow Performance FI users
> Date: Sun=2C 4 Oct 2009 20:59:02 -0400
>
on.net>
>
> If you have an AFP Fuel Injection System on your 0-320=2C 0-360 engine wi
th
> wood or metal prop I'd like to talk to you. Other than adjusting the idle
> mixture and throttle stop on the fuel controller=2C if you have had any
> problems whatsoever=2C ANY PROBLEMS=2C then I would like to hear about th
em (and
> the solution if any). If it is ok=2C could you please email me your phone
> number so I can chat with you? I don't really want to go into the why her
e.
> Suffice to say that my airplane just went through its first annual condit
ion
> inspection=2C has very few hours on it and I'm very unhappy about the rea
son
> for that. Thanks for your time and help.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Tarpon Sprgs=2C FL
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Pichon <deanpichon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Calling all Airflow Performance FI users |
Hi Dean=2C
I have an AFP fuel injection system in my RV-4. I have run it for 8 years
and almost 500 hours. The only issue I have ever had was that I cracked a
number of airbox mounting plates=2C but I believe that was I cowl interface
problem that I have solved. Of course=2C I just complied with the servici
ce bulletin on the aluminum nipple.
I would be interested to learn about your concerns.
Regards=2C
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Bolton=2C MA
> From: dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Calling all Airflow Performance FI users
> Date: Sun=2C 4 Oct 2009 20:59:02 -0400
>
on.net>
>
> If you have an AFP Fuel Injection System on your 0-320=2C 0-360 engine wi
th
> wood or metal prop I'd like to talk to you. Other than adjusting the idle
> mixture and throttle stop on the fuel controller=2C if you have had any
> problems whatsoever=2C ANY PROBLEMS=2C then I would like to hear about th
em (and
> the solution if any). If it is ok=2C could you please email me your phone
> number so I can chat with you? I don't really want to go into the why her
e.
> Suffice to say that my airplane just went through its first annual condit
ion
> inspection=2C has very few hours on it and I'm very unhappy about the rea
son
> for that. Thanks for your time and help.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Tarpon Sprgs=2C FL
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
=0A
_________________________________________________________________=0A
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Cable Routing With Front Mounted Governor... |
Dear Listers,
I thought I'd share my experience installing the control cable on my IO-390 with
a front mounted governor. I was quite perplexed with this task because the
intake snorkel takes up most of the left baffle floor and there's not a lot of
room for running a control cable for the governor down through the same area.
A special bracket would unquestionably be required.
Since the McCauley governor I had was for a rear mount and not a front mount it had the wrong gear ratio (.866 to 1 rear vs .947 to 1 front), I had to order a replacement. A couple of Listers turned me onto the PCU5000 http://www.pcu5000.com/ which is similar in size and mounting to the MT that Van's sells but seems to have less problems with oil flow. I ordered it with the 947:1 gear ratio for the front mounted boss on the IO-390 and with a CLOCKWISE control rotation which means that the control arm turning clockwise *increases* the pitch. The part number for the PCU5000 mounted on an IO-390 is P-520-029/A-947 which can be found on their application chart here: http://www.pcu5000.com/pcu5000x.htm
I scratched my head for quite a while trying to figure out an elegant way of attaching
the control cable. I made no less than three complicated brackets out
of .063 trying to get the cable to come up from the bottom through the left floor.
They mostly worked, but I just wasn't that happy with the operation and
the fact that I would have drill a hole in the floor for the cable.
Then I started playing around with the standard VA-153-PC governor bracket and
discovered that by drilling two new holes in the bracket in just the right location,
I could run the control cable back over the engine and through the rear
baffle. The best part is that the control action is really smooth and I'm getting
full Max-to-Min travel!!
To orientate the bracket, I removed two screws from the governor at 12 o'clock
and 2 o'clock positions. I placed the bracket on the governor and then rotated
it counter-clockwise until it just hit the screw at the 10 o'clock position.
I marked the two stock hole locations from the bracket onto the governor with
a sharpie. I then took the rest of the screws out and with the cap on the work
bench I put the bracket on the cap and realigned it with the two marks I had
made earlier. Then, from the INSIDE of the cap, I marked the actual cap mounting
holes onto the bracket with a sharpie. Over to the drill press to drill
the two new marks on the bracket with a #19 drill and then reassemble the whole
thing. As you can see from the photos, the alignment came out perfect.
The control cable I'm using is the standard length RV-10 prop governor cable and,
at least for the RV-8, is the perfect size.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cable Routing With Front Mounted Governor... |
| From: | "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
Matt, very nice and clean!
If I have to replace my existing governor I may just go with your solution.
BTW, those fuel lines are somehwat flexible. If you buy them new they are straight
and you must bend them. So, if needed for clearance, you could loosen the
adel clamp on the pushrod tube and bend the line down a bit.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=266950#266950
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 912 for sale |
| From: | "Keithc" <keith(at)intev.ca> |
I have a Rotax 912 (80hp) for sale. It was purchased for my series 4 project but
the project has been sold and the engine is now available. It has 1490 hrs SMOH.
It came out of a certified A/C(Katana).Very well looked after. I don't recall
receiving logs with it. I was not concerned at the time of purchase as the
logs were not needed for a home built. The compressions were 76/80,76/80,74/80,76/80
at time of removal. $5700.00 cdn. I am located in Cambridge Ontario.
Keith 519-240-3064 keith(at)intev.ca[b][/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267035#267035
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-8A QB FOR SALE - w/ or w/o New Engine & Prop |
Van's RV-8A Quick Build - EVERYTHING needed to complete except a couple
instrument gauges. All control surfaces completed, wings completed, fuselage
has canopy fitted and ready to rivet, some firewall forward complete (all
firewall forward parts included), on wheels, BRAND NEW 0-360-A2A, zero-time
from Aerosport Power with 1 magneto and 1 LightSpeed electronic ignition.
BRAND NEW Sensenich aluminum propeller. Way too much to document, call or
email - SERIOUS INQUIRES ONLY. Located at Palmyra,WI (88C). See website for
more detail - incredible price!
http://wenzelsoftware.dyndns.org/wenzelsoftware/0-360-A2A/RV8A_For_Sale.htm
Todd Wenzel
todd.wenzel@wenzel-software.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
Had someone call my attention to what looks like the engine sagging
about 1/4" to maybe a little more. (spinner not aligned with the cowel
circle) Cant say I remmber if it ever ws aligned completly. Anyway had a
sugesstion to get new mounts, particulary special made for aerobatics
that are stiffer. Haent pulled cowel yet. Anolther 6A friend told me he
had taken washers and cut a slot to slip them into the mounts which
raised the front to make spinner even with cowel circle. Anyone delt
with this and what do you suggest? Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine mounts |
A pretty typical problem with RV's... I have aerobatic mounts on my
-4 and had the same problem. I installed washers between the engine
and lower engine mounts on mine to fix the issue, others I believe
have shimmed up the engine mount to firewall. Probably check the
archives on this one, should be lots of info.
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 11, 2009, at 11:15 PM, "charlie heathco"
wrote:
> Had someone call my attention to what looks like the engine sagging
> about 1/4" to maybe a little more. (spinner not aligned with the
> cowel circle) Cant say I remmber if it ever ws aligned completly.
> Anyway had a sugesstion to get new mounts, particulary special made
> for aerobatics that are stiffer. Haent pulled cowel yet. Anolther 6A
> friend told me he had taken washers and cut a slot to slip them into
> the mounts which raised the front to make spinner even with cowel
> circle. Anyone delt with this and what do you suggest? Charlie H
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hill" <krhill325(at)dishmail.net> |
| Subject: | Vetterman exhaust for sale |
I have a Vetterman Exhaust for sale, with approximately 300 hrs of use. It
fits a RV-4, O-320.
It is in excellent condition, with no cracks and the joints flex fine. It
is drilled for EGT probes.
I am asking $325 including shipping to the continental US only. I can send
pictures if you are
interested. Thought I would let the RV list know before I go to eBay.
Ken Hill
RV-9A
Ten Mile, TN
865 399-4104
krhill325(at)dishmail.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Email Address - Dick Martin |
Anyone got a good email address for Dick Martin?
Please email me off-line.
Thanks...
David W. Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm"
TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | For sale: set of RV4 seat cushions |
For Sale: Set of RV4 Seat cushions
________________________________
Front seat and back seat cushions, detachable booster cushion for front seat, cut
out for stick clearance, storage pocket for back seat
Color: light grey velvet, burgundy tweed
Confor/Space/Temp Foam layer - Very comfortable
Very clean, No stains. This was my spare set.
Professionally built
$670 (new $980)
http://tinyurl.com/yklk99x
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au> |
| Subject: | For sale: set of RV4 seat cushions |
Hi Emmanuelle,
Do you have pictures? Are you willing to ship to Australia?
Cheers
John Morrissey
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Emmanuelle Richard
Sent: Wednesday, 14 October 2009 12:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: For sale: set of RV4 seat cushions
For Sale: Set of RV4 Seat cushions
________________________________
Front seat and back seat cushions, detachable booster cushion for front sea
t, cut out for stick clearance, storage pocket for back seat
Color: light grey velvet, burgundy tweed
Confor/Space/Temp Foam layer - Very comfortable
Very clean, No stains. This was my spare set.
Professionally built
$670 (new $980)
http://tinyurl.com/yklk99x
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | For sale: set of RV4 seat cushions |
Hi John,
Yes, there are pictures. The link: http://tinyurl.com/yklk99x shows the set. I also sent you additional pictures directly to your email.
I can send the cushions to Australia as long as you pay for the shipping. It shouldn't
be too bad as the cushions only weight around 20lb total.
Best regards,
Emma
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lycoming fuel pump |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Can some one refresh my memory about the 3rd fitting on my fuel pump. It's
for some sort of overflow as I recall. How is this usually handled?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming fuel pump |
Hi Tom
The third fitting is meant to be an overflow outlet.
Should the pump fail and begin leaking internally the leaking fuel should
exit the pump through the required fitting and its attached hose instead
of leaking into the crank case. The vent exit hose/tube should be mounted
on the bottom of the firewall well outboard of the exhaust outlet area. It
should exit the fuel out into the slipstream.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 11:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming fuel pump
Can some one refresh my memory about the 3rd fitting on my fuel pump.
It's for some sort of overflow as I recall. How is this usually handled?
--
Tom Sargent
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
Database version: 6.13480
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
Database version: 6.13480
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming fuel pump |
Hey Tom=2C
If I understand what you are talking about=2C it is just and vent/overflow
line that needs to be ducted back to the firewall and then out the bottom o
f the aircraft with a small diameter tube. Keep it away from the exhaust p
ipes. It should be on your plans. I think it is there to vent fuel overbo
ard if the diaphragms in the pump fail.
Paul
RV8
Flying Siren
Date: Wed=2C 14 Oct 2009 23:13:45 -0700
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming fuel pump
From: sarg314(at)gmail.com
Can some one refresh my memory about the 3rd fitting on my fuel pump. It's
for some sort of overflow as I recall. How is this usually handled?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce B. Bell" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain |
The copper line on the fuel pump overflow plug came loose at the solder
joint. No blame my fault! But has anyone come up with another idea that
works on the RV-4 fuel pump. As you know it is very close to the left foot
well. I used AN fittings and AL line to run the line out the bottom of the
cowl. Plastic line would have been more flexible.
Bruce Bell
RV-4 N23BB 85 hours!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain |
Bruce B. Bell wrote:
>
> The copper line on the fuel pump overflow plug came loose at the solder
> joint. No blame my fault! But has anyone come up with another idea that
> works on the RV-4 fuel pump. As you know it is very close to the left
> foot well. I used AN fittings and AL line to run the line out the bottom
> of the cowl. Plastic line would have been more flexible.
> Bruce Bell
> RV-4 N23BB 85 hours!
>
The RV-6 doesn't the clearance problem of the -4, but I used a 90 degree
NPT fitting with a barb on the end of it (auto parts store) to attach a
length of automotive fuel hose.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce B. Bell" <brucebell74(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain |
Thanks Sam! BBB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Engine Fuel Pump Drain
>
> Bruce B. Bell wrote:
>>
>>
>> The copper line on the fuel pump overflow plug came loose at the solder
>> joint. No blame my fault! But has anyone come up with another idea that
>> works on the RV-4 fuel pump. As you know it is very close to the left
>> foot well. I used AN fittings and AL line to run the line out the bottom
>> of the cowl. Plastic line would have been more flexible.
>> Bruce Bell
>> RV-4 N23BB 85 hours!
>>
>
> The RV-6 doesn't the clearance problem of the -4, but I used a 90 degree
> NPT fitting with a barb on the end of it (auto parts store) to attach a
> length of automotive fuel hose.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I'll be starting my engine for the first time pretty soon. I was wondering
if is necessary to do anything to get the air out of the hoses that carry
fuel and oil to the fuel and oil pressure transducers.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air in lines. |
Tom, I don't know if it's necessary, but before starting a new engine or
one that's sat for a few years I pull the plugs at the nose end of the
oil gallery and pump oil in there. Next I pull one plug from each
cylinder and crank for 15 seconds, wait 30 seconds and crank for 15 secs
.... until I get oil pressure.
Crack the fitting on the carb and run the aux pump until you get fuel.
Set everything for start and have at it.
Now, if you're just worried about air in the sensor lines ..... don't.
The air will make the reading 'spongy', but in short order .... pressure
is pressure. Depending on where you have the fuel pressure sensor
hooked up, the air will dampen pulses from the mechanical pump that will
destroy sensors or gauges over time.
Linn
thomas sargent wrote:
> I'll be starting my engine for the first time pretty soon. I was
> wondering if is necessary to do anything to get the air out of the hoses
> that carry fuel and oil to the fuel and oil pressure transducers.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer" <cdschieffer(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Condition inspection form |
I am beginning my first annual condition inspection in my RV-7A, o-360 with
CSP. I am looking for other options for a condition inspection process or
form that might improve the quality and efficiency of the process. Anyone
have any thoughts/processes to share?
Thanks ,
Chuck Schieffer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Condition inspection form |
this is a great outline to start from. delete what is not required and
add what is needed.
Tom Gummo
N-561FS Harmon Rocket
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck & Deanna Schieffer
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 2:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Condition inspection form
I am beginning my first annual condition inspection in my RV-7A, o-360
with CSP. I am looking for other options for a condition inspection
process or form that might improve the quality and efficiency of the
process. Anyone have any thoughts/processes to share?
Thanks ,
Chuck Schieffer
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 4515 (20091016) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Orear <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Condition inspection form |
Chuck:
Try this: Annual Inspection Checklist Template
It is from the vansairforce.net site that Doug Reeves runs. It is the
template that I have adapted to use for my annual condition
inspections and works quite well.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI
On Oct 16, 2009, at 4:15 PM, Chuck & Deanna Schieffer wrote:
> I am beginning my first annual condition inspection in my RV-7A,
> o-360 with CSP. I am looking for other options for a condition
> inspection process or form that might improve the quality and
> efficiency of the process. Anyone have any thoughts/processes to
> share?
> Thanks ,
> Chuck Schieffer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Condition inspection form |
Found this on VAF. Hope it is of some help
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=36093
Mike Divan
N64GH - RV6 (flying)
http://n64gh.blogspot.com/
FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
Remember it is the Soldier, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Coast Guard that guarantee
your freedom NOT the "community organizer"!
________________________________
From: Chuck & Deanna Schieffer <cdschieffer(at)msn.com>
Sent: Fri, October 16, 2009 2:15:41 PM
Subject: RV-List: Condition inspection form
I am beginning my first annual condition inspection in my
RV-7A, o-360 with CSP. I am looking for other options for a condition
inspection process or form that might improve the quality and efficiency of the
process. Anyone have any thoughts/processes to share?
Thanks ,
Chuck Schieffer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Condition inspection form |
Attached is a copy of the FAA Appendix D to Part 43
But I am also going to start using the excel spreadsheet that Tom posted
also
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
Chuck & Deanna Schieffer wrote:
>
> I am beginning my first annual condition inspection in my RV-7A, o-360
> with CSP. I am looking for other options for a condition inspection
> process or form that might improve the quality and efficiency of the
> process. Anyone have any thoughts/processes to share?
>
> Thanks ,
>
> Chuck Schieffer
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SJ Cowl with Standard baffles |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Is there anyone out there flying the Sam James Cowl but using standard
baffles in place of a plenum? If so can you please share your comments /
results?
I have committed to the James cowl on my 8A but don't want to deal with
a Plenum (again).
Thanks,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Flying
RV-8A Engine hung
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | SJ Cowl with Standard baffles |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Linn,
If you plan on using a plenum with your standard Vans cowl then I
have no data for you but if you plan on installing a James Cowl & plenum
then be forewarned that there are significant cooling issues for both
the cylinders & oil that may be extremely time consuming to resolve
while receiving no additional speed benefit. The issues stem from not
having enough pressure on the upper deck driving down the cooling air to
the lower section of the engine and out to bottom of the cowl. There are
a number of us James/Plenum owners working on these cooling issues as
well as trying to fly LOP. Because of the pressure issues flying LOP is
all but impossible and we as a group are considering adding expensive &
complicated Turbo Pressure rails to counteract the pressure issues plus
a few other small fixes. None of us is able to fly LOP right out of the
box like many if not most standard cowl/baffle builders.
As you asked specifically about the Plenum I have to also say that
it seems an airtight plenum is a requirement. No sloppy work can be
allowed around here. With a well sealed plenum you have basically no
access to the top of your engine w/o both removing the top cowl and then
the plenum. It takes me a minute or two to remove my top cowl. Probably
15 minutes to remove and another 15 minutes to install the plenum. Plus
what seems like a lot of additional wear & tear. I was considering an
all aluminum plenum for my 8A with a hinged center column so I could
have quicker access to the cylinders but after much thought I was
soooooo much happier with my 4 & 6A and standard baffles. AKA the good
old days. As I have already sold my 8A cowl and committed to buy the
James cowl I was thinking of trying a James cowl w/o the plenum and
wanted input from anyone that may have gone down this path before.
One last word for you Linn as a -10 builder. I am flying now with
most of the construction behind me and a beautiful airplane to enjoy but
the whole James Cowl & Plenum has been a huge mistake FOR ME and I am
strongly considering replacing it with a Vans cowl. That is a drastic
step for a flying (and painted) plane. I would never consider this if I
could control my temps and fly LOP. I have not made a final decision so
please take this as another data point before you commit one way or the
other. Feel free to contact me off-list if you have further questions.
Robin
Robin @ painttheweb.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: SJ Cowl with Standard baffles
I plan on a plenum for my -10. What was so terrible about your
experience???
Linn
Robin Marks wrote:
> Is there anyone out there flying the Sam James Cowl but using standard
> baffles in place of a plenum? If so can you please share your comments
/
> results?
>
> I have committed to the James cowl on my 8A but don't want to deal
with
> a Plenum (again).
>
>
September 15, 2009 - October 17, 2009
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ue