RV-Archive.digest.vol-uf
October 17, 2009 - December 02, 2009
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robin
>
>
>
> RV-4 Sold
>
> RV-6A Sold
>
> RV-10 Flying
>
> RV-8A Engine hung
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SJ Cowl with Standard baffles |
Robin Marks wrote:
> Linn,
>
> If you plan on using a plenum with your standard Vans cowl
I am.
then I
> have no data for you but if you plan on installing a James Cowl & plenum
> then be forewarned that there are significant cooling issues for both
> the cylinders & oil that may be extremely time consuming to resolve
> while receiving no additional speed benefit. The issues stem from not
> having enough pressure on the upper deck driving down the cooling air to
> the lower section of the engine and out to bottom of the cowl. There are
> a number of us James/Plenum owners working on these cooling issues as
> well as trying to fly LOP. Because of the pressure issues flying LOP is
> all but impossible and we as a group are considering adding expensive &
> complicated Turbo Pressure rails to counteract the pressure issues plus
> a few other small fixes. None of us is able to fly LOP right out of the
> box like many if not most standard cowl/baffle builders.
I want the plenum so that ALL the cooling air goes through the cylinders
and oil cooler, not around them. Cowl seals are poor at best when new,
and go downhill fast with age.
>
> As you asked specifically about the Plenum I have to also say that
> it seems an airtight plenum is a requirement. No sloppy work can be
> allowed around here. With a well sealed plenum you have basically no
> access to the top of your engine w/o both removing the top cowl and then
> the plenum. It takes me a minute or two to remove my top cowl. Probably
> 15 minutes to remove and another 15 minutes to install the plenum. Plus
> what seems like a lot of additional wear & tear. I was considering an
> all aluminum plenum for my 8A with a hinged center column so I could
> have quicker access to the cylinders but after much thought I was
> soooooo much happier with my 4 & 6A and standard baffles. AKA the good
> old days. As I have already sold my 8A cowl and committed to buy the
> James cowl I was thinking of trying a James cowl w/o the plenum and
> wanted input from anyone that may have gone down this path before.
I'm aware of the access problem ..... but I tend to only want access to
the top of the engine during the conditional inspection ..... unless
something breaks.
>
> One last word for you Linn as a -10 builder. I am flying now with
> most of the construction behind me and a beautiful airplane to enjoy but
> the whole James Cowl & Plenum has been a huge mistake FOR ME and I am
> strongly considering replacing it with a Vans cowl. That is a drastic
> step for a flying (and painted) plane. I would never consider this if I
> could control my temps and fly LOP. I have not made a final decision so
> please take this as another data point before you commit one way or the
> other. Feel free to contact me off-list if you have further questions.
I will be in touch further on. Thanks for the comments.
Linn
>
>
>
> Robin
>
> Robin @ painttheweb.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2009 2:39 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: SJ Cowl with Standard baffles
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I plan on a plenum for my -10. What was so terrible about your
>
> experience???
>
> Linn
>
>
>
>
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
>
> > Is there anyone out there flying the Sam James Cowl but using standard
>
> > baffles in place of a plenum? If so can you please share your comments /
>
> > results?
>
> >
>
> > I have committed to the James cowl on my 8A but dont want to deal with
>
> > a Plenum (again).
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Thanks,
>
> >
>
> > Robin
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > RV-4 Sold
>
> >
>
> > RV-6A Sold
>
> >
>
> > RV-10 Flying
>
> >
>
> > RV-8A Engine hung
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > *
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > *
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
>
> Un/Subscription,
>
> Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>
> more:
>
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>
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>
> support!
>
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>
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> *
>
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> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Since the IO-390's a little bigger than the 0-320's and 0-360's traditionally used on the RVs, there have been reports of issues with oil temperatures climbing too high. Marc Ausman has some very interesting findings on his web site http://www.io-390.com regarding his experiences with the IO-390, his RV-7, and some various oil cooler installations he tried. Essentially, it boiled down to using a Steward Warner 10610R oil cooler to keep oil temperatures in a normal range. The problem with the 10610R, however, is that it is a LOT bigger than the stock Van's oil cooler. Mark had trouble fitting it on his RV-7 and I've got even less space on the RV-8.
So, once again, I found myself having the re-engineer to accommodate the IO-390
engine installation. The rear left baffle with the Van's supplied .040" doubler
is sufficiently rigid for the stock oil cooler, but the SW10610R is quite
a bit heavier and also about 1.5 times as wide. Initial fittings looked like
it was going to be a close fit if it would fit at all.
I spent the good part of two full days working on a new design for installing the
SW10610R. I came up with a .063" double that completely shadows the rear baffle
and also ties into the angle on the right of the oil cooler. I emulated
the flow baffles on the stock double by cutting the rear baffle hole slightly
large then bending them back and through the hole in the .063" doubler. I spent
a lot of time carefully measuring and cutting and filing the paired holes
and I'm extremely pleased with the fit and function. I riveted the rear baffle
and the .063" doubler with a matrix of 1/8" rivets at 1" spacing. Probably
went overboard here, but I have to say, it really stiffened up the structure,
so maybe it was worth it.
I orientated the oil cooler such that I was able to catch the mounting screw in
the back of rear cylinder. This will take a huge amount of load off the baffling
components and I'm really glad I noticed that I could use it with just a
little bit of shifting. I also added a 4" long piece of .063" angle cut down
on one side to the center rear baffle picking up the 1/4 mounting screw hole.
This also really tightened up the structure.
I had to file a large half-moon shape out of the right-rear mounting ear on the
oil cooler to clear the engine mount. It is not used structurally on the oil
cooler so no harm done. I opted to use all six mounting screw holes on the oil
cooler instead of the normal four. This also seems to stiffen up the installation.
The oil cooler is sufficiently mounted in toward the centerline such that there
are no clearance issues with the cowling, although there would have been if I
hadn't hogged out such a large half-moon from the oil cooler mount.
The best part of the installation is that the hose fittings are nearly in the stock
location, so I will be able to use the standard hose that come with the FWF
kit. Whew, for once, something works without modification.
All in all, I'm extremely pleased with the oil cooler installation. It is very
solidly mounted, still uses the stock hoses, and clears the cowling.
There are a few more pictures at (Logs 01-11):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972&log=90253&row=12
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | IO-390 Baffle Templates... |
Dear Listers,
I have created CAD drawings of the custom baffle pieces I made for the Lycoming
IO-390 installation on my RV-8 project. Other builder's utilizing the Lycoming
IO-390 in their RV-8 or RV-7 should be able to use these templates to greatly
speed up the baffling installation. Note that these templates also include
the cut-down for the top cowling installation. Builders may want to leave the
tops longer than the templates to assure they get a good fit to the cowling.
Attached are the low-res, non-scale JPGs of the templates for reference only.
The high resolution, full-scale PDFs can be downloaded from my RV-8 web site:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972&log=90450&row=2
The PDFs are meant to be printed 1:1 on 11x17 paper. Be sure to use the reference
dimensions in both the X and Y to verify that your printer is creating scale
diagrams.
Note these pieces worked on my installation, but they may or may not work on others.
No guarantees that they will fit any other installation.
There are many more pictures and descriptions of the installation on my RV-8 website:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/category.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972
Drop me an email if you decide to use these templates and let me know how they
worked!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Matt,
Nice work around and great pictures. I can't tell but it looks like you
used aluminum fittings on the oil cooler. If this is true you need to know
that they are very easy to gall. Dan C had this problem. Pacific Oil Cooler
was able to repair the damage. Just a head's up to try to keep you from
future problems. BTW the normal recommendation is to use steel fittings on
the oil cooler.
Don VS RV7 Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 9:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
Since the IO-390's a little bigger than the 0-320's and 0-360's
traditionally used on the RVs, there have been reports of issues with oil
temperatures climbing too high. Marc Ausman has some very interesting
findings on his web site http://www.io-390.com regarding his experiences
with the IO-390, his RV-7, and some various oil cooler installations he
tried. Essentially, it boiled down to using a Steward Warner 10610R oil
cooler to keep oil temperatures in a normal range. The problem with the
10610R, however, is that it is a LOT bigger than the stock Van's oil cooler.
Mark had trouble fitting it on his RV-7 and I've got even less space on the
RV-8.
So, once again, I found myself having the re-engineer to accommodate the
IO-390 engine installation. The rear left baffle with the Van's supplied
.040" doubler is sufficiently rigid for the stock oil cooler, but the
SW10610R is quite a bit heavier and also about 1.5 times as wide. Initial
fittings looked like it was going to be a close fit if it would fit at all.
I spent the good part of two full days working on a new design for
installing the SW10610R. I came up with a .063" double that completely
shadows the rear baffle and also ties into the angle on the right of the oil
cooler. I emulated the flow baffles on the stock double by cutting the rear
baffle hole slightly large then bending them back and through the hole in
the .063" doubler. I spent a lot of time carefully measuring and cutting
and filing the paired holes and I'm extremely pleased with the fit and
function. I riveted the rear baffle and the .063" doubler with a matrix of
1/8" rivets at 1" spacing. Probably went overboard here, but I have to say,
it really stiffened up the structure, so maybe it was worth it.
I orientated the oil cooler such that I was able to catch the mounting screw
in the back of rear cylinder. This will take a huge amount of load off the
baffling components and I'm really glad I noticed that I could use it with
just a little bit of shifting. I also added a 4" long piece of .063" angle
cut down on one side to the center rear baffle picking up the 1/4 mounting
screw hole. This also really tightened up the structure.
I had to file a large half-moon shape out of the right-rear mounting ear on
the oil cooler to clear the engine mount. It is not used structurally on
the oil cooler so no harm done. I opted to use all six mounting screw holes
on the oil cooler instead of the normal four. This also seems to stiffen up
the installation.
The oil cooler is sufficiently mounted in toward the centerline such that
there are no clearance issues with the cowling, although there would have
been if I hadn't hogged out such a large half-moon from the oil cooler
mount.
The best part of the installation is that the hose fittings are nearly in
the stock location, so I will be able to use the standard hose that come
with the FWF kit. Whew, for once, something works without modification.
All in all, I'm extremely pleased with the oil cooler installation. It is
very solidly mounted, still uses the stock hoses, and clears the cowling.
There are a few more pictures at (Logs 01-11):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&cate
gory=2972&log=90253&row=12
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Hi Don,
Thanks for the feedback. Right now I've just got the AN822-8D aluminum fittings
that Van's includes with the kit screwed into the oil cooler finger tight.
I just checked Van's site and didn't find any steel versions of the AN822-8D.
Is this something that Van's carries or is ACS a better bet? Do you happen to
have a part number?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
At 05:25 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Matt,
>Nice work around and great pictures. I can't tell but it looks like you
>used aluminum fittings on the oil cooler. If this is true you need to know
>that they are very easy to gall. Dan C had this problem. Pacific Oil Cooler
>was able to repair the damage. Just a head's up to try to keep you from
>future problems. BTW the normal recommendation is to use steel fittings on
>the oil cooler.
>Don VS RV7 Flying
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 9:37 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
>
>Since the IO-390's a little bigger than the 0-320's and 0-360's
>traditionally used on the RVs, there have been reports of issues with oil
>temperatures climbing too high. Marc Ausman has some very interesting
>findings on his web site http://www.io-390.com regarding his experiences
>with the IO-390, his RV-7, and some various oil cooler installations he
>tried. Essentially, it boiled down to using a Steward Warner 10610R oil
>cooler to keep oil temperatures in a normal range. The problem with the
>10610R, however, is that it is a LOT bigger than the stock Van's oil cooler.
>Mark had trouble fitting it on his RV-7 and I've got even less space on the
>RV-8.
>
>So, once again, I found myself having the re-engineer to accommodate the
>IO-390 engine installation. The rear left baffle with the Van's supplied
>.040" doubler is sufficiently rigid for the stock oil cooler, but the
>SW10610R is quite a bit heavier and also about 1.5 times as wide. Initial
>fittings looked like it was going to be a close fit if it would fit at all.
>
>I spent the good part of two full days working on a new design for
>installing the SW10610R. I came up with a .063" double that completely
>shadows the rear baffle and also ties into the angle on the right of the oil
>cooler. I emulated the flow baffles on the stock double by cutting the rear
>baffle hole slightly large then bending them back and through the hole in
>the .063" doubler. I spent a lot of time carefully measuring and cutting
>and filing the paired holes and I'm extremely pleased with the fit and
>function. I riveted the rear baffle and the .063" doubler with a matrix of
>1/8" rivets at 1" spacing. Probably went overboard here, but I have to say,
>it really stiffened up the structure, so maybe it was worth it.
>
>I orientated the oil cooler such that I was able to catch the mounting screw
>in the back of rear cylinder. This will take a huge amount of load off the
>baffling components and I'm really glad I noticed that I could use it with
>just a little bit of shifting. I also added a 4" long piece of .063" angle
>cut down on one side to the center rear baffle picking up the 1/4 mounting
>screw hole. This also really tightened up the structure.
>
>I had to file a large half-moon shape out of the right-rear mounting ear on
>the oil cooler to clear the engine mount. It is not used structurally on
>the oil cooler so no harm done. I opted to use all six mounting screw holes
>on the oil cooler instead of the normal four. This also seems to stiffen up
>the installation.
>
>The oil cooler is sufficiently mounted in toward the centerline such that
>there are no clearance issues with the cowling, although there would have
>been if I hadn't hogged out such a large half-moon from the oil cooler
>mount.
>
>The best part of the installation is that the hose fittings are nearly in
>the stock location, so I will be able to use the standard hose that come
>with the FWF kit. Whew, for once, something works without modification.
>
>All in all, I'm extremely pleased with the oil cooler installation. It is
>very solidly mounted, still uses the stock hoses, and clears the cowling.
>
>There are a few more pictures at (Logs 01-11):
>
>
>http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972&log=90253&row=12
>
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Greetings Listers,
I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and deciding
what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags do. The
directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle, but don't
mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just in the general
vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag that wants fresh
air?
I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The instruction
booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its design, it runs much
cooler that traditional automobile conversions do. Okay, great. But does
that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the front baffle for cooling?
If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good place to stick the cool air
on the alternator?
Thanks in advance for the feedback,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Matt,
I got them from Pacific Oil Cooler, http://www.oilcoolers.com/ . Van's does
not stock them as far as I know. ACS does but I do nort know the part #
Don VS RV& flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 7:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
Hi Don,
Thanks for the feedback. Right now I've just got the AN822-8D aluminum
fittings that Van's includes with the kit screwed into the oil cooler finger
tight. I just checked Van's site and didn't find any steel versions of the
AN822-8D. Is this something that Van's carries or is ACS a better bet? Do
you happen to have a part number?
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
At 05:25 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Matt,
>Nice work around and great pictures. I can't tell but it looks like you
>used aluminum fittings on the oil cooler. If this is true you need to know
>that they are very easy to gall. Dan C had this problem. Pacific Oil
Cooler
>was able to repair the damage. Just a head's up to try to keep you from
>future problems. BTW the normal recommendation is to use steel fittings on
>the oil cooler.
>Don VS RV7 Flying
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
>Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 9:37 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv7-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
>
>Since the IO-390's a little bigger than the 0-320's and 0-360's
>traditionally used on the RVs, there have been reports of issues with oil
>temperatures climbing too high. Marc Ausman has some very interesting
>findings on his web site http://www.io-390.com regarding his experiences
>with the IO-390, his RV-7, and some various oil cooler installations he
>tried. Essentially, it boiled down to using a Steward Warner 10610R oil
>cooler to keep oil temperatures in a normal range. The problem with the
>10610R, however, is that it is a LOT bigger than the stock Van's oil
cooler.
>Mark had trouble fitting it on his RV-7 and I've got even less space on the
>RV-8.
>
>So, once again, I found myself having the re-engineer to accommodate the
>IO-390 engine installation. The rear left baffle with the Van's supplied
>.040" doubler is sufficiently rigid for the stock oil cooler, but the
>SW10610R is quite a bit heavier and also about 1.5 times as wide. Initial
>fittings looked like it was going to be a close fit if it would fit at all.
>
>I spent the good part of two full days working on a new design for
>installing the SW10610R. I came up with a .063" double that completely
>shadows the rear baffle and also ties into the angle on the right of the
oil
>cooler. I emulated the flow baffles on the stock double by cutting the
rear
>baffle hole slightly large then bending them back and through the hole in
>the .063" doubler. I spent a lot of time carefully measuring and cutting
>and filing the paired holes and I'm extremely pleased with the fit and
>function. I riveted the rear baffle and the .063" doubler with a matrix of
>1/8" rivets at 1" spacing. Probably went overboard here, but I have to
say,
>it really stiffened up the structure, so maybe it was worth it.
>
>I orientated the oil cooler such that I was able to catch the mounting
screw
>in the back of rear cylinder. This will take a huge amount of load off the
>baffling components and I'm really glad I noticed that I could use it with
>just a little bit of shifting. I also added a 4" long piece of .063" angle
>cut down on one side to the center rear baffle picking up the 1/4 mounting
>screw hole. This also really tightened up the structure.
>
>I had to file a large half-moon shape out of the right-rear mounting ear on
>the oil cooler to clear the engine mount. It is not used structurally on
>the oil cooler so no harm done. I opted to use all six mounting screw
holes
>on the oil cooler instead of the normal four. This also seems to stiffen
up
>the installation.
>
>The oil cooler is sufficiently mounted in toward the centerline such that
>there are no clearance issues with the cowling, although there would have
>been if I hadn't hogged out such a large half-moon from the oil cooler
>mount.
>
>The best part of the installation is that the hose fittings are nearly in
>the stock location, so I will be able to use the standard hose that come
>with the FWF kit. Whew, for once, something works without modification.
>
>All in all, I'm extremely pleased with the oil cooler installation. It is
>very solidly mounted, still uses the stock hoses, and clears the cowling.
>
>There are a few more pictures at (Logs 01-11):
>
>
>http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&cat
egory=2972&log=90253&row=12
>
>
>Matt Dralle
>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8 Construction Blog
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
It would be AN822-8. The D is for Dural, i.e. aluminum. Normally -8 and
above size fittings are considered strong enough in aluminum for engine
installations. -6 and below use steel.
Regards,
Greg Young
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don
> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 10:12 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
>
>
> Matt,
> I got them from Pacific Oil Cooler,
> http://www.oilcoolers.com/ . Van's does not stock them as far
> as I know. ACS does but I do nort know the part # Don VS RV& flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 7:47 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. Right now I've just got the
> AN822-8D aluminum fittings that Van's includes with the kit
> screwed into the oil cooler finger tight. I just checked
> Van's site and didn't find any steel versions of the
> AN822-8D. Is this something that Van's carries or is ACS a
> better bet? Do you happen to have a part number?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
>
> At 05:25 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
> >
> >Matt,
> >Nice work around and great pictures. I can't tell but it looks like
> >you used aluminum fittings on the oil cooler. If this is
> true you need
> >to know that they are very easy to gall. Dan C had this problem.
> >Pacific Oil
> Cooler
> >was able to repair the damage. Just a head's up to try to keep you
> >from future problems. BTW the normal recommendation is to use steel
> >fittings on the oil cooler.
> >Don VS RV7 Flying
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Matt,
The letter D at the end of the AN822-8D part number specifies that the part is
made of aluminum [Dural alloy]. Simply omit the D [AN822-8] to obtain the same
part in steel. This rule applies to all AN hydraulic fittings.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an822.php
Charlie Kuss
PS Using straight or 45 degree fittings will improve oil flow to and from the cooler,
if space allows. 90 degree fittings should only be used when the less restrictive
straight [AN816-8] or 45 degree [AN823-8] fittings will not work.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an823.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an816.php
--- On Sun, 10/18/09, Matt Dralle wrote:
> From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, October 18, 2009, 10:47 PM
> Matt Dralle
>
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. Right now I've just got the
> AN822-8D aluminum fittings that Van's includes with the kit
> screwed into the oil cooler finger tight. I just
> checked Van's site and didn't find any steel versions of the
> AN822-8D. Is this something that Van's carries or is
> ACS a better bet? Do you happen to have a part
> number?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction
> Blog
>
>
> At 05:25 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
> >
> >Matt,
> >Nice work around and great pictures. I can't tell
> but it looks like you
> >used aluminum fittings on the oil cooler. If this
> is true you need to know
> >that they are very easy to gall. Dan C had this
> problem. Pacific Oil Cooler
> >was able to repair the damage. Just a head's up
> to try to keep you from
> >future problems. BTW the normal recommendation is
> to use steel fittings on
> >the oil cooler.
> >Don VS RV7 Flying
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]
> On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> >Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 9:37 AM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com;
> rv8-list(at)matronics.com;
> rv7-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For
> IO-390...
> >
> >Since the IO-390's a little bigger than the 0-320's and
> 0-360's
> >traditionally used on the RVs, there have been reports
> of issues with oil
> >temperatures climbing too high. Marc Ausman has
> some very interesting
> >findings on his web site http://www.io-390.com regarding his experiences
> >with the IO-390, his RV-7, and some various oil cooler
> installations he
> >tried. Essentially, it boiled down to using a
> Steward Warner 10610R oil
> >cooler to keep oil temperatures in a normal
> range. The problem with the
> >10610R, however, is that it is a LOT bigger than the
> stock Van's oil cooler.
> >Mark had trouble fitting it on his RV-7 and I've got
> even less space on the
> >RV-8.
> >
> >So, once again, I found myself having the re-engineer
> to accommodate the
> >IO-390 engine installation. The rear left baffle
> with the Van's supplied
> >.040" doubler is sufficiently rigid for the stock oil
> cooler, but the
> >SW10610R is quite a bit heavier and also about 1.5
> times as wide. Initial
> >fittings looked like it was going to be a close fit if
> it would fit at all.
> >
> >I spent the good part of two full days working on a new
> design for
> >installing the SW10610R. I came up with a .063"
> double that completely
> >shadows the rear baffle and also ties into the angle on
> the right of the oil
> >cooler. I emulated the flow baffles on the stock
> double by cutting the rear
> >baffle hole slightly large then bending them back and
> through the hole in
> >the .063" doubler. I spent a lot of time
> carefully measuring and cutting
> >and filing the paired holes and I'm extremely pleased
> with the fit and
> >function. I riveted the rear baffle and the .063"
> doubler with a matrix of
> >1/8" rivets at 1" spacing. Probably went
> overboard here, but I have to say,
> >it really stiffened up the structure, so maybe it was
> worth it.
> >
> >I orientated the oil cooler such that I was able to
> catch the mounting screw
> >in the back of rear cylinder. This will take a
> huge amount of load off the
> >baffling components and I'm really glad I noticed that
> I could use it with
> >just a little bit of shifting. I also added a 4"
> long piece of .063" angle
> >cut down on one side to the center rear baffle picking
> up the 1/4 mounting
> >screw hole. This also really tightened up the
> structure.
> >
> >I had to file a large half-moon shape out of the
> right-rear mounting ear on
> >the oil cooler to clear the engine mount. It is
> not used structurally on
> >the oil cooler so no harm done. I opted to use
> all six mounting screw holes
> >on the oil cooler instead of the normal four.
> This also seems to stiffen up
> >the installation.
> >
> >The oil cooler is sufficiently mounted in toward the
> centerline such that
> >there are no clearance issues with the cowling,
> although there would have
> >been if I hadn't hogged out such a large half-moon from
> the oil cooler
> >mount.
> >
> >The best part of the installation is that the hose
> fittings are nearly in
> >the stock location, so I will be able to use the
> standard hose that come
> >with the FWF kit. Whew, for once, something works
> without modification.
> >
> >All in all, I'm extremely pleased with the oil cooler
> installation. It is
> >very solidly mounted, still uses the stock hoses, and
> clears the cowling.
> >
> >There are a few more pictures at (Logs 01-11):
> >
> >
> >http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2972&log=90253&row=12
> >
> >
> >Matt Dralle
> >RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> >http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's All New RV-8
> Construction Blog
> >
>
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Reasons for steel Vs. aluminum fittings in the engine compartment
abound. The only credible one I've heard is that the steel will be in
place long after the aluminum fitting has disappeared due to fire. That
makes sense to me. However, I have found no FACTUAL information that
one type of fitting ever helped/caused a fire related incident. That
doesn't mean that the facts aren't out there .... it just means I
haven't found them. I will admit that I have had aluminum fittings in
my Pitts for 28 years .... they were lighter, plentiful, less cost
...... so I used them.
Linn
Don wrote:
>
> Matt,
> I got them from Pacific Oil Cooler, http://www.oilcoolers.com/ . Van's does
> not stock them as far as I know. ACS does but I do nort know the part #
> Don VS RV& flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 7:47 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. Right now I've just got the AN822-8D aluminum
> fittings that Van's includes with the kit screwed into the oil cooler finger
> tight. I just checked Van's site and didn't find any steel versions of the
> AN822-8D. Is this something that Van's carries or is ACS a better bet? Do
> you happen to have a part number?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <Bruce(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
I don't think steel is preferred for fire suppression. Steel is
preferred for vibration protection. The fatigue life of aluminum is
quite short. Common practice is to use steel on any fitting that hangs
off the engine.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
Reasons for steel Vs. aluminum fittings in the engine compartment
abound. The only credible one I've heard is that the steel will be in
place long after the aluminum fitting has disappeared due to fire. That
makes sense to me. However, I have found no FACTUAL information that
one type of fitting ever helped/caused a fire related incident. That
doesn't mean that the facts aren't out there .... it just means I
haven't found them. I will admit that I have had aluminum fittings in
my Pitts for 28 years .... they were lighter, plentiful, less cost
...... so I used them.
Linn
Don wrote:
>
> Matt,
> I got them from Pacific Oil Cooler, http://www.oilcoolers.com/ . Van's
does
> not stock them as far as I know. ACS does but I do nort know the part
#
> Don VS RV& flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 7:47 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. Right now I've just got the AN822-8D
aluminum
> fittings that Van's includes with the kit screwed into the oil cooler
finger
> tight. I just checked Van's site and didn't find any steel versions
of the
> AN822-8D. Is this something that Van's carries or is ACS a better
bet? Do
> you happen to have a part number?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390... |
Aluminum also galls very easily when tightened against steel.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Gray
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
I don't think steel is preferred for fire suppression. Steel is
preferred for vibration protection. The fatigue life of aluminum is
quite short. Common practice is to use steel on any fitting that hangs
off the engine.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 9:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
Reasons for steel Vs. aluminum fittings in the engine compartment
abound. The only credible one I've heard is that the steel will be in
place long after the aluminum fitting has disappeared due to fire. That
makes sense to me. However, I have found no FACTUAL information that
one type of fitting ever helped/caused a fire related incident. That
doesn't mean that the facts aren't out there .... it just means I
haven't found them. I will admit that I have had aluminum fittings in
my Pitts for 28 years .... they were lighter, plentiful, less cost
...... so I used them.
Linn
Don wrote:
>
> Matt,
> I got them from Pacific Oil Cooler, http://www.oilcoolers.com/ . Van's
does
> not stock them as far as I know. ACS does but I do nort know the part
#
> Don VS RV& flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 7:47 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oversized Oil Cooler Installation For IO-390...
>
>
> Hi Don,
>
> Thanks for the feedback. Right now I've just got the AN822-8D
aluminum
> fittings that Van's includes with the kit screwed into the oil cooler
finger
> tight. I just checked Van's site and didn't find any steel versions
of the
> AN822-8D. Is this something that Van's carries or is ACS a better
bet? Do
> you happen to have a part number?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Tru Trak Auto Pilot Servo |
I have a Tru Trak servo installed on my RV-7 elevator control and am
picking up a sudden large resistance to movement. After almost
disassembling my entire elevator system to find the "binding" I traced
the problem to the servo. There is of course an expected resistance
when moving the controls but I suddenly experienced a loud grinding
noise which was reminiscent of say a control surface rubbing over
corrugated conduit. I also found that the extra resistance was only
evident when the electrical connections were made (9 - pin plug
inserted) The same effect could be obtained when 4 of the 9 pins were
grounded against the side of the plug. Electrical current not applied.
This was not evident throughout construction and has only just
manifested itself. (now that I am ready for my maiden flight!) My
friends RV with identical setup does not have the resistance that I am
experiencing. Any thoughts anyone?
Trevor RV-7 Cape Town
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak Auto Pilot Servo |
Yes, pull the servo and send it in. You sure don't need the autopilot
on your maiden flight... Isn't the first instance of hearing of
issues with the servos....
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 20, 2009, at 6:27 PM, "Trevor" wrote:
> I have a Tru Trak servo installed on my RV-7 elevator control and am
> picking up a sudden large resistance to movement. After almost
> disassembling my entire elevator system to find the "binding" I
> traced the problem to the servo. There is of course an expected
> resistance when moving the controls but I suddenly experienced a
> loud grinding noise which was reminiscent of say a control surface
> rubbing over corrugated conduit. I also found that the extra
> resistance was only evident when the electrical connections were
> made (9 - pin plug inserted) The same effect could be obtained when
> 4 of the 9 pins were grounded against the side of the plug.
> Electrical current not applied. This was not evident throughout
> construction and has only just manifested itself. (now that I am
> ready for my maiden flight!) My friends RV with identical setup
> does not have the resistance that I am experiencing. Any thoughts
> anyone?
>
> Trevor RV-7 Cape Town
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak Auto Pilot Servo |
Disconnect the servo, remove/secure the pushrod and fly the
airplane.
Regards,
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za>
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 00:27:03
Subject: RV-List: Tru Trak Auto Pilot Servo
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak Auto Pilot Servo |
Hi Trevor,
Many builders have found interference with the F705 Bulkhead and the F789 Elevator
Push Rod assembly. The problem has been the bottom or lower side of the tube
rubbing on the bottom side of the cut out for the tube in the F705 Bulkhead
(lower side of the cut out)... I would check this closely.
Build on...
Darrell
--- On Tue, 10/20/09, Trevor wrote:
> From: Trevor <davist(at)xsinet.co.za>
> Subject: RV-List: Tru Trak Auto Pilot Servo
> To: "RV-List"
> Date: Tuesday, October 20, 2009, 5:27 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I have a Tru Trak servo
> installed on my RV-7
> elevator control and am picking up a sudden large
> resistance to movement.
> After almost disassembling my entire elevator system to
> find the "binding" I
> traced the problem to the servo. There is of course
> an
> expectedresistance when moving the controls but I
> suddenly experienced a
> loud grinding noise which was reminiscent of say a control
> surface rubbing over
> corrugated conduit. I also found that the extra
> resistance was only
> evident when the electrical connections were made (9 - pin
> plug inserted)
> The same effect could be obtained when 4 of the 9 pins were
> grounded against the
> side of the plug. Electrical current not
> applied. This was not
> evident throughout construction and has only just
> manifested itself. (now
> that I am ready for my maiden flight!) My friends RV
> with identical setup
> does not have the resistance that I am experiencing.
> Any thoughts
> anyone?
>
> Trevor RV-7 Cape
> Town
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's RV-9A Kit for sale. Amazing deal. |
| From: | "hirox" <hiro(at)consultant.com> |
I started construction in 2001, but do not fly any more, and offering it for sale.
Meticulously crafted, primed with zinc chromate. I have completed the Tail,
Wings, and most of the Empennage. I even purchased the finishing kit, but
have not worked on it for some time, and would be an enormous head start if
you are looking to fly soon.
Builder #90147. Provision for Tail light, Dual Brake, Dual Landing lights, Wingtip
with provision for position lights, Static Air, Slider Canopy, Dyna/cowl
for O-320, Spinner for Sensenich metal prop. Many of these options you can probably
still change at this point.
Currently, the Van's quickbuild price $30,200 and kit price is $20,220. I am offering
this kit for $19,000, firm. In addition, I will set aside $1,000 of the
payment aside for 12 months from date of purchase to pay for up to that amount
in parts which are missing (I have carefully kept track of everything so I
don't think this will be an issue).
Kit is located in Monterey, California. I was able to move it with a 15' moving truck. Pics available at http://img42.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=pc150115.jpg
Please contact me for any questions.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=268844#268844
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8A QB Kit - Sell Kit or Partner Wanted to help Complete |
Empennage COMPLETED (Interior - Acid Etched, Alodined and Mil Epoxy Primered) =
Meticulous workmanship. QB Wings and QB Fuselage have NOT been started. Everything
is in excellent condition and nothing is missing (Complete Kit)
Asking $19.5K. Currently Vans sells (above) - Empennage + QB Wings + QB Fuselage
for $25K (includes Crating Charges) and there is a long "Lead Time".
Ideally like to find a Builder (Partner) to work together to complete Project who
has space to build it or sell it.
Presently hangared in Chino, CA. Need to move ASAP !!
Garey Wittich (310) 392-1682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stucklen, Frederic W" <stucklfw(at)westinghouse.com> |
| Subject: | Front Gear Leg Bolt Hole Wear |
I posted this on the Van's Airforce site last week, but thought that it
might be a good idea to add it to this site as well. The type of locktite I
think was #609, but am not sure as the container label has worn off..
It's interesting to note that , while the front gear leg mounting holes
have worn, there haven't been any reported instances of the main gear leg m
ounting hole wearing.... This front gear fix probably should be used on all
new assemblies.....
Fred
Hi All,
I just got done repairing the front gear leg mount bolt hole on my RV-7A a
while back. There was a slight bit of wear due to the bolt either loosening
and/or the front fork being too tight, causing excessive torque on the gea
r leg during turns. In any case, there was a slight amount of rotation in t
he gear leg with the bolt loose, indicating that the bolt holes were slight
ly oblong...
Here's what I did to fix the problem. First I tied down the tail, and remov
ed the front gear leg. Next, I cleaned both the top mount area and the lowe
r mount area of any grease. I did the same to the gear leg, but re-greased
the lower mount area where it comes into contact with the mount. Then I app
lied permanent Lock-Tight to the inside of the upper mount area, and also c
oated the top mount area of the gear leg. The gear leg was then inserted ba
ck into the mount and the bolt partially re-inserted. (My bolt inserts from
the top. The firewall has an indentation for the nut. There is no hole in
the firewall for the bolt...).
Next I used a small amount of "Liquid Steel" into the worn areas of the gea
r leg mounting bolt holes. (Since there was very little wear, I did this in
stead of drilling out the mount/gear to a larger size bolt, or inserting a
taper pin.) The bolt was then torqued normally. I let the assembly dry befo
re testing it for any movement. Solid....
I've flown over 100 Hours after that fix was performed, and still have no m
ovement in the front gear leg upper mount area. I have checked it at every
oil change for any signs of movement....
With the history of issues in this area, it would seem prudent to do the fi
nal front gear leg assembly with Lock-Tight on the upper mount area. This w
ould prevent the re-occurring issue that we've seen in this area on the -A
RV models.... And I've seen it happen to every RV-XA that I've owned....
__________________
Fred Stucklen
RV-7A N924RV Flying
RV-6A N926RV 875 Hrs (Sold)
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs (Sold)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Karl Ahamer" <kahamer(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Front Gear Leg Bolt Hole Wear |
I used LOCTITE 680 on top and bottom area(nose gear) and no movement after
90 hours any more..
Karl
7A
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stucklen, Frederic
W
Sent: Thursday, 22 October 2009 10:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Front Gear Leg Bolt Hole Wear
I posted this on the Van's Airforce site last week, but thought that it
might be a good idea to add it to this site as well. The type of locktite I
think was #609, but am not sure as the container label has worn off..
It's interesting to note that , while the front gear leg mounting holes
have worn, there haven't been any reported instances of the main gear leg
mounting hole wearing.. This front gear fix probably should be used on all
new assemblies...
Fred
Hi All,
I just got done repairing the front gear leg mount bolt hole on my RV-7A a
while back. There was a slight bit of wear due to the bolt either loosening
and/or the front fork being too tight, causing excessive torque on the gear
leg during turns. In any case, there was a slight amount of rotation in the
gear leg with the bolt loose, indicating that the bolt holes were slightly
oblong...
Here's what I did to fix the problem. First I tied down the tail, and
removed the front gear leg. Next, I cleaned both the top mount area and the
lower mount area of any grease. I did the same to the gear leg, but
re-greased the lower mount area where it comes into contact with the mount.
Then I applied permanent Lock-Tight to the inside of the upper mount area,
and also coated the top mount area of the gear leg. The gear leg was then
inserted back into the mount and the bolt partially re-inserted. (My bolt
inserts from the top. The firewall has an indentation for the nut. There is
no hole in the firewall for the bolt...).
Next I used a small amount of "Liquid Steel" into the worn areas of the gear
leg mounting bolt holes. (Since there was very little wear, I did this
instead of drilling out the mount/gear to a larger size bolt, or inserting a
taper pin.) The bolt was then torqued normally. I let the assembly dry
before testing it for any movement. Solid....
I've flown over 100 Hours after that fix was performed, and still have no
movement in the front gear leg upper mount area. I have checked it at every
oil change for any signs of movement....
With the history of issues in this area, it would seem prudent to do the
final front gear leg assembly with Lock-Tight on the upper mount area. This
would prevent the re-occurring issue that we've seen in this area on the -A
RV models.... And I've seen it happen to every RV-XA that I've owned....
__________________
Fred Stucklen
RV-7A N924RV Flying
RV-6A N926RV 875 Hrs (Sold)
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs (Sold)
16:44:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Front Gear Leg Bolt Hole Wear |
Thanks Fred,
Could you give us some tech data on the "Liquid Steel" please?
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: Stucklen, Frederic W
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 7:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: Front Gear Leg Bolt Hole Wear
I posted this on the Van's Airforce site last week, but thought that i
t might be a good idea to add it to this site as well. The type of locktite
I think was #609, but am not sure as the container label has worn off..
It's interesting to note that , while the front gear leg mounting hole
s have worn, there haven't been any reported instances of the main gear leg
mounting hole wearing.. This front gear fix probably should be used on all
new assemblies...
Fred
Hi All,
I just got done repairing the front gear leg mount bolt hole on my RV-7A
a while back. There was a slight bit of wear due to the bolt either looseni
ng and/or the front fork being too tight, causing excessive torque on the g
ear leg during turns. In any case, there was a slight amount of rotation in
the gear leg with the bolt loose, indicating that the bolt holes were slig
htly oblong...
Here's what I did to fix the problem. First I tied down the tail, and rem
oved the front gear leg. Next, I cleaned both the top mount area and the lo
wer mount area of any grease. I did the same to the gear leg, but re-grease
d the lower mount area where it comes into contact with the mount. Then I a
pplied permanent Lock-Tight to the inside of the upper mount area, and also
coated the top mount area of the gear leg. The gear leg was then inserted
back into the mount and the bolt partially re-inserted. (My bolt inserts fr
om the top. The firewall has an indentation for the nut. There is no hole i
n the firewall for the bolt...).
Next I used a small amount of "Liquid Steel" into the worn areas of the g
ear leg mounting bolt holes. (Since there was very little wear, I did this
instead of drilling out the mount/gear to a larger size bolt, or inserting
a taper pin.) The bolt was then torqued normally. I let the assembly dry be
fore testing it for any movement. Solid....
I've flown over 100 Hours after that fix was performed, and still have no
movement in the front gear leg upper mount area. I have checked it at ever
y oil change for any signs of movement....
With the history of issues in this area, it would seem prudent to do the
final front gear leg assembly with Lock-Tight on the upper mount area. This
would prevent the re-occurring issue that we've seen in this area on the -
A RV models.... And I've seen it happen to every RV-XA that I've owned....
__________________
Fred Stucklen
RV-7A N924RV Flying
RV-6A N926RV 875 Hrs (Sold)
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs (Sold)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel line routing |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top of
the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large grommet.
I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high temperatures in there in
the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I was
going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it away
from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea. But now I'm
wondering....
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line routing |
I've done this with my 6A and SJ cowl/plenum and have two of these grommets.
Pictures seperately - and to others that ask for them......
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 24, 2009 10:54 AM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: fuel line routing
>
>I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top of
>the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large grommet.
>I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high temperatures in there in
>the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
>
>I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
>penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I was
>going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it away
>from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea. But now I'm
>wondering....
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel line routing |
At 07:54 AM 10/24/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top
of the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large
grommet.=C2 I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high
temperatures in there in the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
>
>I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I
was going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it
away from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea.=C2 But now
I'm wondering....
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
Hi Tom,
Attached are a couple of pictures of how I routed mine. I've got the
4-into-4 exhaust from Vetterman. The fuel from the TB to the distributor
doesn't even come close to the exhaust. I would assume that the grommet
comes with the Lycoming inter-baffle kit and is designed to handle the
temps in that region. If you hear otherwise from Bart or some other
authoritative source, be sure to post it to the List.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Final Finishing Touches To FWF...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | fuel line routing |
I wondered the same thing but was told the grommet I received from AFP was a high-temp
grommet designed for these high temps. 100+ hrs so far and no problems
yet.
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel line routing
I've done this with my 6A and SJ cowl/plenum and have two of these grommets.
Pictures seperately - and to others that ask for them......
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 24, 2009 10:54 AM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: fuel line routing
>
>I planned a route for the fire-sleeved fuel line to my AFP divider on top of
>the engine, which penetrates the cooling baffle through a large grommet.
>I'm wondering now if the grommet can take the high temperatures in there in
>the 10 minutes after engine shutdown.
>
>I note that when Bart L. delivered the engine to me he had the fuel line
>penetrating the intercylinder baffle through a grommet (he didn't know I was
>going to use a crossover exhaust, so I had to re-plumb it to keep it away
>from the exhaust) so I guess that's where I got the idea. But now I'm
>wondering....
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and deciding
what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags do. The
directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle, but don't
mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just in the general
vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag that wants fresh
air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The instruction
booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its design, it runs
much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do. Okay, great. But does
that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the front baffle for cooling?
If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good place to stick the cool air
on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came out
very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the surface.
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted *not*
to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would be off most
of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber pressure by
drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an area
that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will probably
prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back of the
enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of cooling for the
antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Matt Dralle wrote:
> At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>>
>> Greetings Listers,
>>
>> I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and deciding
what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags do.
The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle, but don't
mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just in the
general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag that wants
fresh air?
>>
>> I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The instruction
booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its design, it runs
much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do. Okay, great. But does
that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the front baffle for cooling?
If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good place to stick the cool
air on the alternator?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>>
>
>
> I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came out
very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the surface.
>
> I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted *not*
to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would be off
most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber pressure
by drilling yet another hole.
>
> I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an area
that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will probably
prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back of the
enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of cooling for
the antennas.
>
> Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
>
Hi Matt,
Sorry that you didn't get a response earlier. I can't offer much insight
on the mags, but the critical stuff in an alternator is typically under
the sheet metal on the back, or just inside the case on the back. Having
said that, I would determine which way the internal fan is trying to
move air through the alternator, & supply the cool air to assist the
flow, instead of fighting it. The quick&dirty way to check that is to
use a drill to spin up the alternator in the correct rotation & feel for
the air flow.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Hi Matt,
Beautiful work and pictures as always. Regarding the antennas: that area
during flight will not exceed 120 F IMHO. I believe that based on an extra
digital temp probe I move around my engine compartment for testing of
different areas. The tubes will work against you at shut down. Do you have
the opportunity to get an extra temperature probe stuck in there? You seem
like the kind of guy that would enjoy the extra data collection. And I know
you have lots of electronics aboard!
And regarding Alternator temps, my 70 amp never went above 160 F without
cooling tube, although I normally have one. And that is the peak after shut
down, peak in flight was 135 F without and 125 F with cooling tube.
Dale
RV6a
1245 hrs, O-360 A1A, dual electronic ignition, dual electric. GRT EFIS S200
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and
deciding what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags
do. The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle,
but don't mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just
in the general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag
that wants fresh air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The
instruction booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its
design, it runs much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do.
Okay, great. But does that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the
front baffle for cooling? If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good
place to stick the cool air on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came
out very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the
surface.
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted
*not* to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would
be off most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber
pressure by drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an
area that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will
probably prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back
of the enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of
cooling for the antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Matt, do you think water through the duct will hurt anything? Note sure you
will get a lot of water but you will get some pretty wet air if you fly in
the rain.
Just wondering?
Bill S
7a finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009 Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and
deciding what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags
do. The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle,
but don't mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just
in the general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag
that wants fresh air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The
instruction booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its
design, it runs much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do.
Okay, great. But does that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the
front baffle for cooling? If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good
place to stick the cool air on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead. The tubes came
out very nice. I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the
surface.
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator. I opted
*not* to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would
be off most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber
pressure by drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure. This seems like an
area that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics will
probably prefer to be cooled. There are a couple of small holes in the back
of the enclosure to allow the air to escape. Should provide plenty of
cooling for the antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Invitation! Lower Slobovia Garden Club's Pumpkin Drop, 2009 |
You're cordially invited to the "Lower Slobovia Garden Club" 3rd annual
Pumpkin Drop, starting at 11:00 AM on Saturday, November 7, 2009. Lunch
will be served at noon, and pumpkin drop demos begin around 2:00 PM.
Contact info for driving directions is on the attached flyer; nav info is at
http://www.airnav.com/airport/MS71
Y'all come!
Charlie & Tupper, for the Lower Slobovia Garden Club members
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
At 07:18 PM 10/24/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Matt, do you think water through the duct will hurt anything? Note sure you
>will get a lot of water but you will get some pretty wet air if you fly in
>the rain.
>
>Just wondering?
>
>Bill S
>7a finishing
Hi Bill,
Well, all five of the GPS antennas are meant to be mounted on the exterior of a
vehicle. This would put then in the normal rain and weather directly. Seems
that a little moist air would probably be alright. I'm a little concerned about
the area not drying out and causing corrosion or rust. But it seems like
the high temps should dry it out pretty quickly.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82882 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Finishing Up FWF...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Matt,
Just commenting on the blast tubes to your antenna tray:- It appears that
you intend for the tray to screw to the cowling when it's in place, or tha
t you intend to fix a cover to the top of the tray.- In either case, the
tray will be a dead space without an area for the incoming air from the bla
st tubes to exit.- In this case, the blast tube won't provide any cooling
air flow, just positive ram air pressure during flight.- As others have
pointed out, the tube may just create a conduit for heat soak to warm the a
ntennas after a hot shut down.- I would probably leave those tube off of
the antenna tray.
Skylor
RV-8 Under Construction
(for way too long!)
--- On Sat, 10/24/09, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
Date: Saturday, October 24, 2009, 3:28 PM
At 07:56 PM 10/18/2009- Sunday, you wrote:
>
>Greetings Listers,
>
>I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and
deciding what needs cooling and what doesn't.- I'm guessing the Slick Ma
gs do.- The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the b
affle, but don't mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag.
- Is just in the general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole
in the mag that wants fresh air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells.- The ins
truction booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its design,
it runs much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do.- Okay, g
reat.- But does that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the front
baffle for cooling?- If so, same question on the mags.- Where's a good
place to stick the cool air on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
I never got any responses to this post, so I forged ahead.- The tubes cam
e out very nice.- I ran a tube to the top of each mag about 1" above the
surface.
-
I opted to run a duct to the back of the primary 60a alternator.- I opted
*not* to run a duct to the 20a secondary alternator figuring that it would
be off most of the time and didn't warrant the reduction in baffle chamber
pressure by drilling yet another hole.
I did opt to run a duct to the GPS antenna enclosure.- This seems like an
area that will get very hot on a hot day, and the sensitive electronics wi
ll probably prefer to be cooled.- There are a couple of small holes in th
e back of the enclosure to allow the air to escape.- Should provide plent
y of cooling for the antennas.
Attached are a few pictures for those that might be interested.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Matt,
Many Lycomings have shrouds as well as blast tubes for the magnetos. I purchased
a pair of used magneto shrouds from a local certified engine shop. Heat and
vibration are the enemies of anything electrical, like magnetos and alternators.
To properly protect an ND alternator, you need to understand how the cooling fans
work. Your PlanePower ND alternator has two internal fans [mounted on the
rotor shaft, internal to the cases]. These fans draw air in from both the front
and the rear of the alternator case. This air is expelled through the slots
located around the middle circumference of the alternator.
Lycoming engines spin opposite to what most car engines rotate. Honda engines
rotate clockwise, as do our Lycomings. This means that an ND alternator off of
something other than a Honda, will have the fans running backwards. Planepower's
brag relates to the fact that it has the correct fan rotation for optimum
cooling [clockwise]. I would recommend that you either aim your blast tube towards
the rear of your alternator. An even better option would be to fabricate
a shroud for the rear of the alternator and install the blast tube to the shroud.
See attached photos of David Brand's very nice alternator shroud.
For folks using an ND alternator with internal fans which is NOT from a Honda,
aim the blast tube at the slots around the circumference of the middle of the
unit. Since the fans will be running in reverse, the air is being drawn in where
it should be expelled. I hope this helps.
Charlie Kuss
PS I'll try to take a photo of my magneto shrouds later today.
I'm looking over this cooling blast tube kit from Van's (DUCT CBT-5/8) and
deciding what needs cooling and what doesn't. I'm guessing the Slick Mags
do. The directions are pretty clear on how to mount the tube in the baffle,
but don't mention at all where to shoot the air in around the mag. Is just
in the general vacineity good enough, or is there a little hole in the mag
that wants fresh air?
>
>I've also got the PlanePower 60amp alternator that Van's sells. The
instruction booklet that comes with it brags about how, because of its
design, it runs much cooler that traditional automobile conversions do.
Okay, great. But does that mean that it still needs a blast tube off the
front baffle for cooling? If so, same question on the mags. Where's a good
place to stick the cool air on the alternator?
>
>Thanks in advance for the feedback,
>
>Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Charlie, do you know what aircraft the shrouds came from??? I've never
seen them! 'Course I'm no expert either! !
My little Grumman (AA-1B O-235) does have a cooling shroud ..... around
the oil screen ..... which has the temp probe ..... to get past the FAA
testing!
Linn
Charles Kuss wrote:
> Matt,
> Many Lycomings have shrouds as well as blast tubes for the magnetos.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Linn,
I'm not sure. Might have been off of a Piper Cherokee???
Charlie
--- On Sun, 10/25/09, Linn Walters wrote:
> From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, October 25, 2009, 12:51 PM
> Linn Walters
>
> Charlie, do you know what aircraft the shrouds came
> from??? I've never seen them! 'Course I'm no
> expert either! !
>
> My little Grumman (AA-1B O-235) does have a cooling shroud
> ..... around the oil screen ..... which has the temp
> probe ..... to get past the FAA testing!
> Linn
>
> Charles Kuss wrote:
> > Matt,
> > Many Lycomings have shrouds as well as blast
> tubes for the magnetos.
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Here are some photos I took of the magneto cooling shrouds.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
At 06:05 AM 10/26/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>Here are some photos I took of the magneto cooling shrouds.
>Charlie
Where do they fit on the mag exactly?
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> |
| Subject: | Wheelpants & Fairings |
I'm having one hell of a time figuring out how to best attach the wheel pan
ts on my -8A nosedragger. I can usually figure out what to do after reading
the directions several times and staring at the plans. In this case, I see
m to have developed a terminal brain fart. Spent a lot of time searching VA
F and builder sites, but have not yet found one that gets into the details
of pants attachment, although several sites provide options for pants and
fairing alignment.
Anyone have any words of wisdom - or good links? I have the hinges riveted
and the leg fairings on, am awaiting a Fairings-etc shipment, but am frozen
regarding cutting and drilling the pants.
One would think that anyone who figured out Vans baffle kit directions woul
d find the fairings a breeze - but not so. Thanks in advance.
Paul Valovich
Booger
N192NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Charlie....
Are the shrouds for a Slick or Bendix? If for Slick, where/how do they attach.
Curious Chris in Oregon
RV-8
Overhauling IO-360 A1B6
-----Original Message-----
>From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Oct 26, 2009 9:05 AM
>To: RV List
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
>
>Here are some photos I took of the magneto cooling shrouds.
>Charlie
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes... |
Chris,
These are for Bendix [now TCM] magnetos. The top of the magneto is held on with
5 machine screws. The mounting brackets nest between the heads of 4 of those
top screws and the top cap of the magneto.
Something similar could be fashioned for the Slick units. Making them out of composite
may allow a better fit with less work.
Charlie
--- On Tue, 10/27/09, Chris Stone wrote:
> From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling Blast Tubes...
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, October 27, 2009, 9:42 AM
> Chris Stone
>
> Charlie....
>
> Are the shrouds for a Slick or Bendix? If for Slick,
> where/how do they attach.
>
> Curious Chris in Oregon
> RV-8
> Overhauling IO-360 A1B6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
> >Sent: Oct 26, 2009 9:05 AM
> >To: RV List
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag & Alternator Cooling
> Blast Tubes...
> >
> >Here are some photos I took of the magneto cooling
> shrouds.
> >Charlie
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. There is NO advertising to support the Lists. You might have noticed the conspicuous lack of flashing banners and annoying pop-ups on the Matronics Email List email messages and web site pages such as the Matronics List Forums ( http://forums.matronics.com ), the List Wiki ( http://wiki.matronics.com), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), the List Browser ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of
days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all
of the bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution
counts!
Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with
the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided
by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and
have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/).
These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective
web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product
line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support
of the Lists again this year!!
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods
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a qualifying Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Using the firmer engine mounts. |
I only have 280 or so hrs on my 6a, but engine saging at least 3/8th
inch at prop. I can lift it up about 1/4 inch, so mounts need replacing
for sure. I have heard of the aerobatic mounts, Im told they can make
for more vibration, being stiffer. Think its counter productive to use
Vans as replacement, as these have relative low time. I dont realy do
much arebatics, but like to do up to 5g pulls. Would like coments from
anyone who has replaced mounts with the stiffer ones. Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Using the firmer engine mounts. |
The stiffer aerobatic mounts keep the engine from moving around during
violent maneuvers. Your mount sagging is plainly due to constant
pressure, not the transient pressure of aerobatics. My suggestion .....
because I'm cheap .... is to place washers under the lower mounts to
raise the engine back up. My experience says that once the mounts are
compressed and have some age on them ..... they quit sagging. At some
point you may want to swap the top ones with the bottom. Remember that
the harder the mounts, the more vibration is transferred to the airframe
with fatigue becoming a problem .... especially if you have mechanical
gyros.
Linn
charlie heathco wrote:
> I only have 280 or so hrs on my 6a, but engine saging at least 3/8th
> inch at prop. I can lift it up about 1/4 inch, so mounts need
> replacing for sure. I have heard of the aerobatic mounts, Im told they
> can make for more vibration, being stiffer. Think its counter
> productive to use Vans as replacement, as these have relative low
> time. I dont realy do much arebatics, but like to do up to 5g pulls.
> Would like coments from anyone who has replaced mounts with the
> stiffer ones. Charlie H
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "N616TB" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | Airing up the tires through the wheel pants. |
My Wheel pants have been installed on my airplane for less than a year and I
am already finding the disadvantage of checking/ filling the air in the
tires. I am sure there has been discussion of putting holes in the wheel
pants for access to the valve stem. Does anyone have any photos on their
building sites of where to put these holes, how big, and what if anything is
used to plug the holes? I would appreciate any feedback on this simple
thing.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6
Frankston, Texas
The pursuit of happiness is the chase of a lifetime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants. |
I purchased little snap in plugs at Home Depot. They carry sizes ranging
from 1/4" to over 1". I think mine are 7/8". The plugs come in plastic
and polished (stainless?) steel. I got the steel ones. Aircraft Spruce
also carries little hinged doors if you want to spend 20 bucks instead
of $2.
To locate the holes, all I did was measure the distance from the axle of
the wheel to the center of the valve stem, then drilled a 7/8" hole that
distance from the hole in the wheelpant where the bolt goes into the
axle nut. It was probably 2" or 2 1/4", but don't trust that
measurement - measure for yourself.
On mine, the hole is in the front half of the wheelpant, but I'm not
sure that's important.
Kyle Boatright
2001 RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: N616TB
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2009 8:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants.
My Wheel pants have been installed on my airplane for less than a year
and I am already finding the disadvantage of checking/ filling the air
in the tires. I am sure there has been discussion of putting holes in
the wheel pants for access to the valve stem. Does anyone have any
photos on their building sites of where to put these holes, how big, and
what if anything is used to plug the holes? I would appreciate any
feedback on this simple thing.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6
Frankston, Texas
The pursuit of happiness is the chase of a lifetime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Using the firmer engine mounts. |
I had the same issue, installed washers and it fixed the issue.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 1, 2009, at 8:34 AM, Linn Walters
wrote:
> The stiffer aerobatic mounts keep the engine from moving around
> during violent maneuvers. Your mount sagging is plainly due to
> constant pressure, not the transient pressure of aerobatics. My
> suggestion ..... because I'm cheap .... is to place washers under
> the lower mounts to raise the engine back up. My experience says
> that once the mounts are compressed and have some age on them .....
> they quit sagging. At some point you may want to swap the top ones
> with the bottom. Remember that the harder the mounts, the more
> vibration is transferred to the airframe with fatigue becoming a
> problem .... especially if you have mechanical gyros.
> Linn
>
>
> charlie heathco wrote:
>>
>> I only have 280 or so hrs on my 6a, but engine saging at least
>> 3/8th inch at prop. I can lift it up about 1/4 inch, so mounts need
>> replacing for sure. I have heard of the aerobatic mounts, Im told
>> they can make for more vibration, being stiffer. Think its counter
>> productive to use Vans as replacement, as these have relative low
>> time. I dont realy do much arebatics, but like to do up to 5g
>> pulls. Would like coments from anyone who has replaced mounts with
>> the stiffer ones. Charlie H
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | engine mount washers |
Thanks for the info re washers, now who is the math whiz that knows how
thick the washer should be to raise the front 3/8"? I heard mention of
cutting a slot to enable sliping behind mount, anyone done this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Myers" <jmyers(at)flyingmranch.us> |
| Subject: | Re: engine mount washers |
Kelly, Lynn, others,
This may be a dumb question, but wondering if everyone is talking the same
location for washers. I have seen washers mounted under isolation mounts
as it seems most are talking about but I have also seen 970's added under
the engine mount to firewall gussets. I have used both locations for
different purposes. One to reposition the isolation mount geometry and one
to reposition the whole mount and engine. I know of one occasion where the
spacer inside the mount was reduced in length to tighten up the isolation
mount. I would think they present different problems and or solutions. The
engine tends to change it's weight on the mounts during flight and moves
around a lot during cranking, shutdown and anything other than 1 G flight.
On the other hand the mount to firewall fit is more rigid and tends to stay
where you bolt it. However a loose bolt or lost washer at that location is
possibly more troublesome as the bolt size there may not be sufficient,
given the abuse that occurs when they are loose.
I also have a sagging engine and was planning on going with one or two 970's
between the mount and firewall, but also realize that in flight the engine
may not be sagging as much. It seems that most commenting on this thread
are putting a 970 washer under the isolation mount but I don't see how that
will tighten up the isolation mount without treating the internal spacer.
I don't do any negative G stuff (on purpose anyway) and generally never
exceed 3 to 3.5 G positive but the engine still moves around a lot with
gyroscopic actions as well as simple G loads. Is the concensus that short
of changing out the mounts, the best approach is to washer up the isolation
mounts? I know the best solution would probably be to replace the kit iso
mounts with Lord mounts but what is the consensus for next best solution.
John Myers with a little sag with a 360 on an 8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com |
| Subject: | Re: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants. |
To answer your-question-it is very simple, you need an access-hole (s
quare or round)
and a plug or cover. You just have to align it with the valve stem. You'll
use an air-chuck
with an extension. The most common access is round and one of those SNAP-IN
BUTTON COVERS-or PLUGS-(or hole plugs), in metal or plastic/nylon.
-
http://www.surplussales.com/MetalPlugs/MetalHolePlugs.html
-
http://www.widgetco.com/hole-plugs
-
http://www.surplussales.com/Rubber-Plastic/Plastic-1.html
-
You need to figure out what air tool you will use, for the geometry.
-
http://www.drillspot.com/products/41080/Dynaquip_AC45_Straight_Body_Air_Chu
ck
(this is best, with a length of brass tube as needed)
-
http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=JL5010N
(takes up a little more room with the side fitting)
-
Just a stripe of white paint where the air-stem is so you can align it with
the
hole in the wheel pants will make it easier. Also to check the air-pressure
,
you can use the same air-check to a quick disconnect. Than you just plug
in the AIR-GAGE into the quick disconnect. So you will need the following:
-
-Hole Plug
-Straight Air-Chuck
-Female quick disconnect
-Air-Gage with male quick disconnect
-Small length of brass tube with 1/4" NFPT (threaded ends)
(you can bend the brass pipe slightly than cut, than-thread if you want a
slight-angle)
(if you use an angle or dual air-chuck you will need at least a-1.25" hol
e)
-
My solution was to use good quality tubes, tires and nitrogen,-so I don't
have-
to deal with checking or filling them as often. However having access is a
good
idea. However to get half-back half- of my wheel pants off is-only a
handful of
Philips screws; it takes about a minute to remove or install. So I decided
against it.
-
Others make a square hole with a small hinged cover to make LOTS of room
so you can put in any old big dual chuck, with out having the tire rotated
-the tire
just the right spot.
-
-
>My Wheel pants have been installed on my airplane for less than a year and
I
>am already finding the disadvantage of checking/ filling the air in the
>tires.- I am sure there has been discussion of putting holes in the whee
l
>pants for access to the valve stem.- Does anyone have any photos on thei
r
>building sites of where to put these holes, how big, and what if anything
is
>used to plug the holes?- I would appreciate any feedback on this simple
>thing.=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine mount washers |
John Myers wrote:
>
> Kelly, Lynn, others,
>
> This may be a dumb question,
It'll be the first one!
but wondering if everyone is talking the
> same location for washers. I have seen washers mounted under isolation
> mounts as it seems most are talking about but I have also seen 970's
> added under the engine mount to firewall gussets. I have used both
> locations for different purposes. One to reposition the isolation mount
> geometry and one to reposition the whole mount and engine. I know of
> one occasion where the spacer inside the mount was reduced in length to
> tighten up the isolation mount. I would think they present different
> problems and or solutions. The engine tends to change it's weight on
> the mounts during flight and moves around a lot during cranking,
> shutdown and anything other than 1 G flight. On the other hand the mount
> to firewall fit is more rigid and tends to stay where you bolt it.
> However a loose bolt or lost washer at that location is possibly more
> troublesome as the bolt size there may not be sufficient, given the
> abuse that occurs when they are loose.
The mount bolts are not as accessible (like on the inside) as the
isolators, so I typically work on the isolators. Putting washers under
one or two of the airframe bolts also stresses the steel mount. Just MHO.
>
> I also have a sagging engine and was planning on going with one or two
> 970's between the mount and firewall, but also realize that in flight
> the engine may not be sagging as much. It seems that most commenting on
> this thread are putting a 970 washer under the isolation mount but I
> don't see how that will tighten up the isolation mount without treating
> the internal spacer.
The washer goes forward of the isolator and the flat on the engine
mounting ears if you have the ring type isolator mounts. On mounts
where the isolator is cone shaped and sandwiches the mounting ear, then
the washer will be behind the isolator.
>
> I don't do any negative G stuff (on purpose anyway) and generally never
> exceed 3 to 3.5 G positive but the engine still moves around a lot with
> gyroscopic actions as well as simple G loads. Is the concensus that
> short of changing out the mounts, the best approach is to washer up the
> isolation mounts? I know the best solution would probably be to replace
> the kit iso mounts with Lord mounts but what is the consensus for next
> best solution.
>
> John Myers with a little sag with a 360 on an 8
I'd use the washer method before spending so much money on new
isolators. I've seen no difference in who makes them .... in my limited
experience. I think the consensus is ..... whatever you prefer. No
matter what route you take, the end result should be the same. Best of
luck.
Linn
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry2dt(at)aol.com |
Anyone within striking distance of Portland have a -6/6a fuselage jig I co
uld beg/borrow/steal or know someone who does?
Cheers,
Jerry Cochran
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants. |
For filling tires through wheel pants I used
KM713-16-064 -from aircraft spruce.
I also needed a tire valve extension
I got mine from Cleavland tool
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=VSE5
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
Home 204 287 8334
Cell 204 799 7062
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | November List Fund Raiser |
A couple of years ago I implemented an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for
the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes
a Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, he or she will
instantly cease to receive these Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month!
Its just that simple. Don't you wish PBS worked that way! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes
to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric
bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered
on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which
allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in
reliably and performance.
Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such
as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept
exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand
the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet
these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous
public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Knauf" <cknauf(at)comcast.net> |
It's time to move the fuselage to the airport and we're wondering if anyone
in the Twin Cities has a flatbed towing company they prefer or who has done
this before and understands the attention to detail and special handling
required.
Thanks,
Chris Knauf
RV-7, N707HK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount washer thickness calculation |
| From: | Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> |
You'll have to do some measuring to figure out the width of the washers,
but my schoolboy trig would have it that the thickness of the washers
would be given by:
Thickness required = 3/8" * Distance from top mounting bolts to bottom
mounting bolts/Distance from top mounting bolts to base of spinner.
This is based on the sine law. The triangle having the angle that
includes the 3/8" measurement and the triangle that includes the
required washer calculation would both have the same angle (sine).
Opposite over hypotenuse in both cases becomes the same value.
So, measure the distance from the firewall to the spinner and from the
top to the bottom mounting bolts and divide the smaller number by the
bigger one and use it to multiply by the height required (3/8", .375"
or .9525 millimeters).
Good luck,
Ian Brown, RV-9A Bromont, Quebec
> From: "charlie heathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
> Subject: RV-List: engine mount washers
>
> Thanks for the info re washers, now who is the math whiz that knows how
> thick the washer should be to raise the front 3/8"? I heard mention of
> cutting a slot to enable sliping behind mount, anyone done this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Chris,
I transported mine twice using a fellow pilot's flatbed trailer.
Wings, wheels, and engine mount were not attached. I was told that the engine
should not be attached as the road bounces would cause damage. Foam underneath,
straps and come-alongs to hold it in place - no issues.
I've got a few pictures - zap me direct....
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris Knauf <cknauf(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Nov 3, 2009 10:55 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: MSP towing
>
>It's time to move the fuselage to the airport and we're wondering if anyone
>in the Twin Cities has a flatbed towing company they prefer or who has done
>this before and understands the attention to detail and special handling
>required.
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chris Knauf
>
>RV-7, N707HK
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com> |
On Tue, 3 Nov 2009, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Chris,
>
> I transported mine twice using a fellow pilot's flatbed trailer.
> Wings, wheels, and engine mount were not attached. I was told that the engine
should not be attached as the road bounces would cause damage. Foam underneath,
straps and come-alongs to hold it in place - no issues.
>
> I've got a few pictures - zap me direct....
>
Just moved mine to a two-car garage, pictures at:
http://www.xmission.com/~bifft/plane/
went really easy.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 organizing new garage.
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
In my case, the engine was attached to the fuselage (along with the entire
empennage, canopy and landing gear) and it made it 30 miles to the airport
on a flat bed trailer. No sign of damage to the engine after 1600 hrs. over
the last 17 years.
Ivan Haecker -4 S. Cen. TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: MSP towing
>
> Chris,
>
> I transported mine twice using a fellow pilot's flatbed trailer.
> Wings, wheels, and engine mount were not attached. I was told that the
> engine should not be attached as the road bounces would cause damage.
> Foam underneath, straps and come-alongs to hold it in place - no issues.
>
> I've got a few pictures - zap me direct....
>
> Ralph
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Chris Knauf <cknauf(at)comcast.net>
>>Sent: Nov 3, 2009 10:55 AM
>>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: MSP towing
>>
>>It's time to move the fuselage to the airport and we're wondering if
>>anyone
>>in the Twin Cities has a flatbed towing company they prefer or who has
>>done
>>this before and understands the attention to detail and special handling
>>required.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Chris Knauf
>>
>>RV-7, N707HK
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | RV-8 photo in FAA Aviation news Nov/Dec 09 edition |
The FAA publishes a bimonthly Aviation News magazine that you've probably p
icked up at Sun N Fun or Air Venture. Anyway=2C the Nov edition shows an b
eautiful red=2C RV-8 (page 12).
You can find it at: http://www.faa.gov/news/aviation_news/2009/media/NovDe
c2009.pdf
(In full disclosure=2C I'm employed by the FAA and have authored several ar
ticles in the past.)
Marty Heller
RV-7 (Cowling and Baffling)
_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps=2C menus=2C and reviews organized in one place.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MFESRP&publ=WLHMTAG&cre
a=TEXT_MFESRP_Local_MapsMenu_Resturants_1x1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman(at)mts.net> |
I just hooked a trailer hitch to the tail of my
RV-8 and towed it on its own wheels.
The engine was attached,but no empenage or wings.
It worked great.The bearings got a bit hot,but no damage.
It's time to move the fuselage to the airport and we're wondering if anyone
in the Twin Cities has a flatbed towing company they prefer or who has done
this before and understands the attention to detail and special handling
required.
Thanks,
Chris Knauf
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> |
FWIW, when I moved my 9A fuselage with engine mounted I used a U-Haul
box van. The dimensions are slightly wider than the footprint of the 9A
but the doorway is slightly narrower. This meant getting the aircraft
up ramps to the almost-in position, and then doing a sideways jog to get
the wheel nuts past the door frame. It was a fairly short trip but I
had no problem moving it with the engine mounted - either during or
after. The engine/prop were sticking out of the open door!
If the mount is designed to withstand a hard landing I assume it's also
built to withstand similar stresses on a road trip.
By the way, if you try to do this, the typical U-Haul van comes with
only one ramp. I used a ladder with an assortment of boards on it for
the other main wheel, and friends to balance the nosewheel to the right
angle. A combination of a come-along and people turning the wheels by
hand managed to get it up the ramp nicely.
Ian Brown, C-GOHM, Bromont, QC
> From: "Chris Knauf" <cknauf(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: MSP towing
>
> It's time to move the fuselage to the airport and we're wondering if anyone
> in the Twin Cities has a flatbed towing company they prefer or who has done
> this before and understands the attention to detail and special handling
> required.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Knauf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | R&B Aircraft (Topeka) Feedback? |
| From: | J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
I'm thinking of having R&B Aircraft in Topeka paint my RV.
I'd appreciate feedback from anyone with experience with them.
"Jerry" Riffel
108 Hrs RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mick Muller" <mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 11/03/09 |
"Ralph E. Capen" SAID
>Chris,
>. I was told that the engine
>should not be attached as the road bounces would cause damage.
>Ralph
Wow, all that bouncing around taxiing on rough strips, t
hose multiple landings I often do,
the rollouts on gravel strips etc
must be doing a lot of damage is this theory is true!
Sometimes you can't believe everything you are told.
Mick the skeptic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
Just a quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser. The Matronics
Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are provided
for my your Contributions during this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email
Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Bell" <glennbell(at)cablelynx.com> |
| Subject: | compass location |
We are finalizing our panel design and are looking for the least
unacceptable location for a whiskey or vertical card compass. I have read
that they never work if panel mounted and some find the glare shield
location unacceptable. We will , hopefully , have the Dynon Skyview system
and a 430. It would be nice if the compass worked. If it is only going to
be for looks I guess it wouldn't matter where we put it..Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants. |
I had same problem. I solved it by purchasing the "Leak Proof" inner
tubes from Desser tire and rubber. I now find that I loose less than
one pound of air per month. I also went with the Goodyear custome 3
tire. No problems over the last 500 hours.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
----- Original Message -----
From: N616TB
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2009 7:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants.
My Wheel pants have been installed on my airplane for less than a year
and I am already finding the disadvantage of checking/ filling the air
in the tires. I am sure there has been discussion of putting holes in
the wheel pants for access to the valve stem. Does anyone have any
photos on their building sites of where to put these holes, how big, and
what if anything is used to plug the holes? I would appreciate any
feedback on this simple thing.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6
Frankston, Texas
The pursuit of happiness is the chase of a lifetime!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants. |
I drilled I believe a 1 inch hole in the side of the wheel pant and used
one of those metal covers that are used one the top of a Piper Cherokee wing
to cover the strut schrader valve. Then just get a valve core extension
screw it in and you are good to go. Worked fine.
Bill Mahoney
In a message dated 11/5/2009 11:03:52 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
martin(at)gbonline.com writes:
I had same problem. I solved it by purchasing the "Leak Proof" inner
tubes from Desser tire and rubber. I now find that I loose less than one pound
of air per month. I also went with the Goodyear custome 3 tire. No
problems over the last 500 hours.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
----- Original Message -----
From: _N616TB_ (mailto:n616tb(at)btsapps.com)
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2009 7:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Airing up the tires through the wheel pants.
My Wheel pants have been installed on my airplane for less than a year and
I am already finding the disadvantage of checking/ filling the air in the
tires. I am sure there has been discussion of putting holes in the wheel
pants for access to the valve stem. Does anyone have any photos on their
building sites of where to put these holes, how big, and what if anything is
used to plug the holes? I would appreciate any feedback on this simple
thing.
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6
Frankston, Texas
The pursuit of happiness is the chase of a lifetime!
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?
RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
(http://www.aeroelectric.com/)
(http://www.buildersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compass location |
I bought a Pegasus from AC Spruce. I moved it around on the completed
panel which was powered at the time. I found an area on the right side
of the panel where there was no interferance and mounted the compas
there. It seems to be working well 1.5 yes later.
Good luck
Dave
Sent from my iPhone with fat fingers
On Nov 5, 2009, at 3:08 AM, Glenn Bell wrote:
> We are finalizing our panel design and are looking for the least
> unacceptable location for a whiskey or vertical card compass. I have
> read that they never work if panel mounted and some find the glare
> shield location unacceptable. We will , hopefully , have the Dynon
> Skyview system and a 430. It would be nice if the compass worked.
> If it is only going to be for looks I guess it wouldn=99t matter
where
> we put it..Thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: compass location |
Glenn Bell wrote:
> We are finalizing our panel design and are looking for the least
> unacceptable location for a whiskey or vertical card compass. I have read
> that they never work if panel mounted and some find the glare shield
> location unacceptable. We will , hopefully , have the Dynon Skyview system
> and a 430. It would be nice if the compass worked. If it is only going to
> be for looks I guess it wouldn't matter where we put it..Thanks
>
Just wondering why you are installing a compass. The Dynon satisfies the
requirement to have a magnetic heading indicator.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Walter" <dale1rv6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 11/03/09 |
I think only half the idea was expressed. The real concern would be to mount
the engine on a temp basis, with bolts to the firewall NOT torqued properly.
Then it could bounce around and hammer the mount area. Similar lesson to the
story of the canopy that was not secured. Same could happen if wings were
not properly secured.
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mick Muller
Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2009 9:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 11/03/09
"Ralph E. Capen" SAID
>Chris,
>. I was told that the engine
>should not be attached as the road bounces would cause damage.
>Ralph
Wow, all that bouncing around taxiing on rough strips, t
hose multiple landings I often do,
the rollouts on gravel strips etc
must be doing a lot of damage is this theory is true!
Sometimes you can't believe everything you are told.
Mick the skeptic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Apollo GX-60 with a Dynon?? |
Has anyone flown with a Dynon EFIS & Apollo GX60 (for IFR)? If so, is it
a reasonable combination? Is the HS34 required or advisable, and can the
Dynon serve as the CDI for approaches?
I'm not yet instrument rated & *if* I can get around to getting the
rating, I'll still be a big enough coward to only use it to get up
through and back down through a layer to good conditions. It's hard to
justify the money for a 430W when there's a good chance I'll never use
its real power, & GX60's can be had for a much more tolerable price.
Thanks for any insight,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Air in fuel lines |
Hi all:
Been having a lot of trouble with a rough idle problem on my Fuel Injected
0-360 parallel valve engine. I've been going through several tests trying
to locate the source of the problem but so far no joy. One suggestion that
I have received concerns air getting into the fuel lines. It seems a little
far fetched that air could get in through a fitting that is not leaking fuel
but I'm running out of ideas so I'll go through and tighten all my fittings
to see if that helps.
But, that leaves one other possibility and that's air getting in through the
fuel selector valve. I'm using the Van's fuel selector that came with my
RV-6 kit. It sat in its little brown bag on the shelf in my shop for several
years before it got used but seems to working fine. It's not hard to move
the selector and its not leaking, at least externally.
Anyone experience leaking of this valve or any issue with that might let air
into the fuel lines through it? Any ideas on how I might test the valve to
see if it's leaking air into the system?
I'm using the Van's high pressure pump setup that puts the pump ahead of the
selector valve so there will be some suction at the valve. I'm running out
of ideas and thinking about switching to a carb. Hate to do that but can't
find anything wrong after working on it for the last year, maddening.
Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund
Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Apollo GX-60 with a Dynon?? |
Charlie=2C
We have been flying with a Dynon D-10 and the Apollo GX55 for about 4 years
now without any problems at all. Very stable platform for instrument appr
oaches.
I hope that helps
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
> Date: Fri=2C 6 Nov 2009 19:55:02 -0600
> From: ceengland(at)bellsouth.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Apollo GX-60 with a Dynon??
>
>
> Has anyone flown with a Dynon EFIS & Apollo GX60 (for IFR)? If so=2C is i
t
> a reasonable combination? Is the HS34 required or advisable=2C and can th
e
> Dynon serve as the CDI for approaches?
>
> I'm not yet instrument rated & *if* I can get around to getting the
> rating=2C I'll still be a big enough coward to only use it to get up
> through and back down through a layer to good conditions. It's hard to
> justify the money for a 430W when there's a good chance I'll never use
> its real power=2C & GX60's can be had for a much more tolerable price.
>
> Thanks for any insight=2C
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Find the right PC with Windows 7 and Windows Live.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Swaney <swaneymj(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Apollo GX-60 with a Dynon?? |
Charlie,
Garmin is in essence no longer going to support for the GX 50/55/50/65
series. They are offering a $2000 trade-in on those units through the
end of the year for a 430W, etc.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Apollo GX-60 with a Dynon?? |
Mark Swaney wrote:
>
> Charlie,
> Garmin is in essence no longer going to support for the GX 50/55/50/65
> series. They are offering a $2000 trade-in on those units through the
> end of the year for a 430W, etc.
> Mark
Hmmm...
Thanks to everyone for their answers. This is starting to look like when
the surgeon came out & told the family, "The operation was a success,
but the patient died."
What does the discontinuation of support really mean? No repairs, no IFR
legal database updates, etc, or just no new software updates?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Apollo GX-60 with a Dynon?? |
There are no replacement display panels. When the panel dies the unit is
nothing but a spare parts unit. Garmin chose to not acquire any spares
beyond what they got when they bought the company.
Charlie England wrote:
>
> Mark Swaney wrote:
>>
>> Charlie,
>> Garmin is in essence no longer going to support for the GX 50/55/50/65
>> series. They are offering a $2000 trade-in on those units through the
>> end of the year for a 430W, etc.
>> Mark
>
> Hmmm...
>
>
> Thanks to everyone for their answers. This is starting to look like when
> the surgeon came out & told the family, "The operation was a success,
> but the patient died."
>
> What does the discontinuation of support really mean? No repairs, no IFR
> legal database updates, etc, or just no new software updates?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for
the Lists.
Won't you take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)? As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least - if not a whole lot more - valuable as a building/flying/recreating/entertainment
tool as your typical magazine subscription!
Please take minute and assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is
fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore CA 94551-0347
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Phase I testing done! |
Saturday afternoon I finished my hours and test plan - actually went over my required
hours in order to get the Vx and Vy numbers.
Sunday, I took my first trip 'out-of-the-box' and went to Soup on Sunday at Campbell
field. Lots of planes there and plenty of RV's. A USCG C-130 came by and
did a low pass (for a C-130 anyway) over the field. Hot dog, soda and a cupcake
for a stuffing of the donation box.
Next will be to give my wife Alane her ride as the first passenger (she had a prior
committment Sunday and couldn't make 9VG) - then we'll be doing some VFR
travelling and I get to start work on my IFR ticket.
Let the (more) fun begin,
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR @ N06 43.8 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Stringham <fstringham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Phase I testing done! |
Congrats on another milestone.............Bravo Zulu (well Done)
Frank @ 1L8 ...RV7A... N74BZ .... Flying
> Date: Mon=2C 9 Nov 2009 08:16:01 -0500
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Phase I testing done!
>
>
> Saturday afternoon I finished my hours and test plan - actually went over
my required hours in order to get the Vx and Vy numbers.
>
> Sunday=2C I took my first trip 'out-of-the-box' and went to Soup on Sunda
y at Campbell field. Lots of planes there and plenty of RV's. A USCG C-130
came by and did a low pass (for a C-130 anyway) over the field. Hot dog=2C
soda and a cupcake for a stuffing of the donation box.
>
> Next will be to give my wife Alane her ride as the first passenger (she h
ad a prior committment Sunday and couldn't make 9VG) - then we'll be doing
some VFR travelling and I get to start work on my IFR ticket.
>
> Let the (more) fun begin=2C
>
> Ralph Capen
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 43.8 hrs
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:24:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I tried but got an error and I do not wish to re enter my credit card
information.
Sorry!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
At 03:52 PM 11/10/2009 Tuesday, you wrote:
>In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:24:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time, dralle(at)matronics.com
writes:
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>I tried but got an error and I do not wish to re enter my credit card information.
>
>Sorry!
The log indicates that you didn't enter all of the card information on the contribution
page. This was likely the expiration date or the name on the card.
Please give it another try and be certain that you've filled in all of the necessary
fields.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Matt accepts checks!
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:24:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I tried but got an error and I do not wish to re enter my credit card
information.
Sorry!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | an interesting site to exploret; |
A friend with considerable years and experience in the aircraft industry
has this new website up and running.
http://hunteraeronautical.com
How about some feedback?
Jim in Kelowna
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
Database version: 6.13670
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. There
are some very nice incentive gifts to choose from as well!
Please make your Contribution today:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: an interesting site to exploret; |
| From: | "n395v" <Bearcat(at)bearcataviation.com> |
They have misspelled Harmon Rocket
--------
Milt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=272298#272298
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: an interesting site to exploret; |
Jim wrote:
> A friend with considerable years and experience in the aircraft
> industry has this new website up and running.
> http://hunteraeronautical.com
>
> How about some feedback?
>
> Jim in Kelowna
Feedback on your email?
It's Spam. And written to be deceptive & misleading, like most of the
emails from ripoff artists are written.
Why not just be up front & say that your friend has some new aviation
products we might be interested in?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
| From: | Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Terry,
But Matt has not put his mailing address on these requests. No
place to send the check.!
writes:
Matt accepts checks!
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:24:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I tried but got an error and I do not wish to re enter my credit card
information.
Sorry!
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
____________________________________________________________
One Up the Competition
Earn your MBA from Post University. Free textbooks for new students!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: an interesting site to exploret; |
The RV8 cargo pod picture doesn't show anything. The 'enlarged' picture
is the same size as the small one.
Constructive criticism,
John Morgensen
Jim wrote:
> A friend with considerable years and experience in the aircraft
> industry has this new website up and running.
> http://hunteraeronautical.com
>
> How about some feedback?
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
> *
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
> Database version: 6.13670
> http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
> <http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/>
> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: an interesting site to exploret; |
Jim wrote:
> A friend with considerable years and experience in the aircraft
> industry has this new website up and running.
> http://hunteraeronautical.com
>
> How about some feedback?
>
> Jim in Kelowna
Due to the lack of details, photos and pricing.......vaporware???? :-)
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: an interesting site to exploret; |
Harmon Rocket is the correct spelling, not Harman.
Tom
Harmon Rocket II N-561FS
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 9:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: an interesting site to exploret;
A friend with considerable years and experience in the aircraft
industry has this new website up and running.
http://hunteraeronautical.com
How about some feedback?
Jim in Kelowna
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
Database version: 6.13670
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
signature database 4594 (20091111) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
The postal mailing address for the fund raiser is listed towards the bottom of
the contribution web page:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
But, here it is as well:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551-0347
USA
Thank you in advance for your contribution!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
At 06:25 AM 11/11/2009 Wednesday, you wrote:
>Thanks Terry,
> But Matt has not put his mailing address on these requests. No place to
send the check.!
>
>
>Matt accepts checks!
>
>
>
>Terry
>
>
>
>
>
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rquinn1(at)aol.com
>Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:53 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
>
>In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:24:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time, dralle(at)matronics.com
writes:
>
>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>I tried but got an error and I do not wish to re enter my credit card information.
>
>Sorry!
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Larry,
I hadn't looked at the site to see this year, but here is the address I have
been sending my donations to over the years:
Matt G. Dralle
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Mac Donald
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Thanks Terry,
But Matt has not put his mailing address on these requests. No place
to send the check.!
writes:
Matt accepts checks!
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:24:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I tried but got an error and I do not wish to re enter my credit card
information.
Sorry!
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
===================================
oelectric.com
com">www.buildersbooks.com
omebuilthelp.com
www.matronics.com/contribution
===================================
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
===================================
ronics.com
===================================
____________________________________________________________
One Up the Competition
<http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2142/c?cp=e4Yh8_9JzXXakd-p58DIQgAAJ1DOX
6m7NtFYSFKPhB8gxgzbAAQAAAAFAAAAAPYo7D4AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABIhWQAAAAA=>
Earn your MBA from Post University. Free textbooks for new students!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | an interesting site to exploret; |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
The site looks very slick & professional however the content is quite
lacking. I agree with others about additional DETAILED images and text.
Having been around the RV community for some time I have seen many
accessories developed for these planes all using generally the same
development model. Someone has an idea and discusses it with the RV List
and/or Vans Airforce for feedback and further development. Now maybe I
missed something but items as significant as Wing Modifications (High
Lift Wing) and Winglest are such significant changes to an important
component like a the major lifting body cause visitors to disbelieve
their value if there is no history, documentation, detailed images
(including design, construction & installation) and data supporting the
benefits of these modifications. The few images of Winglets shows
commercial units. While the people behind the site may have some
connection to these units there is no comfort in this knowledge when the
site is lacking for the items the RV communit.
Robin
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 9:22 PM
Subject: RV-List: an interesting site to exploret;
A friend with considerable years and experience in the aircraft industry
has this new website up and running.
http://hunteraeronautical.com
How about some feedback?
Jim in Kelowna
E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.448)
Database version: 6.13670
http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
<http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Airplane Parts For Sale" <araw(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Parts for sale from failed project |
Hi Everyone,
Here is a list of items for sale from a failed project. If you need any of
this, email me directly with an offer. Some of these parts may be listed
elsewhere and are subject to prior sale.
Lycoming O-360-A1A, rebuilt by Mattituck with millennium cylinder upgrade,
new slicks
McCauley Blackmac new 3-blade propeller, designed for use with above engine
Woodward propeller governor for above, rebuilt
Sky-tec starter for above, installed and run for 3 months before the
airplane was grounded for repairs
Inter-av alternator conversion, installed and run for 3 months before the
airplane was grounded for repairs
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: SELECTOR VALVE AIR LEAKS. |
____________________________________
From: 144tomjones(at)gmail.com
CC: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: 11/11/2009 4:33:15 P.M. Pacific Standard Time
Subj: SELECTOR VALVE AIR LEAKS.
Dean,
Jess Meyers of Belted Air Power discovered this many years ago: If the
pump is sucking fuel through the valve (not pushing) it can pull air past the
"O" ring seals around the selector valve shaft. Fuel will not necessarily
leak from the valve, in fact it seldom if ever does in this type of
situation, but it will surely pull air into the fuel! This is just like having
a
pin hole in a soda straw and trying to suck soda from a bottle, it will
induce air bubbles from the atmosphere into the straw causing loss of vacuum
and dilution of the soda with air.
This same phenomena occurs in fuel with even worse effects. The fuel draw
is reduced to the point of inadequate fuel to the injectors or
carburetor, possible vapor lock, and or foaming in the carburetor bowl causing
the
float to rise to a false level limiting the fuel flow through the needle
valve and possibly completely shutting off the needle valve. Any of these
occurrences can cause fuel starvation and is only exacerbated by turning on of
a second or booster pump as it only sucks in more air! And yet it may
show good fuel pressure!
Watch the accident reports and see how many times an engine failed and
when checked afterwards there was fuel in the system, but it just stopped
running. We hear of reports where the pilot experienced a rough running engine
and took the proper action to turn on a boost pump only to have the
engine run even worse or stop all together.
Jess has been putting this notice out for many years but unfortunately few
seem to understand it well enough to heed the warning.
Tom Jones, Big Reliable V6 Power
(http://www.incredimail.com/?id=603341&rui=114156207)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
| From: | Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com> |
Thanks Terry,
I think thats the one.
Larry
writes:
Larry,
I hadnt looked at the site to see this year, but here is the address I
have been sending my donations to over the years:
Matt G. Dralle
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Mac Donald
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 6:26 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Thanks Terry,
But Matt has not put his mailing address on these requests. No
place to send the check.!
writes:
Matt accepts checks!
Terry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
In a message dated 11/7/2009 1:24:57 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I tried but got an error and I do not wish to re enter my credit card
information.
Sorry!
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
===================================
oelectric.com
com">www.buildersbooks.com
omebuilthelp.com
www.matronics.com/contribution
===================================
tp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
===================================
ronics.com
===================================
____________________________________________________________
One Up the Competition
Earn your MBA from Post University. Free textbooks for new students!
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
____________________________________________________________
Doctorate Degrees Online
Boost your career with an online doctoral degree. Enroll today!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=DWkBLOigwUDfAP-55D0W_QAAJ1DOX6m7NtFYSFKPhB8gxgzbAAQAAAAFAAAAAPurNz8AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAyOQAAAAA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | bleeding brakes? |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I will soon need to pour some brake fluid into my RV-6A and, I presume, to
bleed the brakes. I've never done this on a car, let alone a plane. Can
some one direct me to a web page that explains the process?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bleeding brakes? |
No website, but my best advice would be to get someone from your local
EAA chapter (you should already be a member!!!) to help you do it the
first time. It's easy to end up with spongy brakes.
Lacking that, the simple and best way is to use a squeeze-type oil can
and force fluid through the bleed fitting on the brake cylinder. An
adapter with a short piece of hose on the master cylinder will allow you
to catch overflow in a container. Bleed one side, then the other.
Linn
thomas sargent wrote:
> I will soon need to pour some brake fluid into my RV-6A and, I presume,
> to bleed the brakes. I've never done this on a car, let alone a plane.
> Can some one direct me to a web page that explains the process?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlos Hernandez <carlosh(at)structuralaz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bleeding brakes? |
Here you go.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33493&highlight=brake+bleeding
Carlos in AZ
thomas sargent wrote:
> I will soon need to pour some brake fluid into my RV-6A and, I
> presume, to bleed the brakes. I've never done this on a car, let
> alone a plane. Can some one direct me to a web page that explains the
> process?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
> *
>
>
> *
--
Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Structural Engineers Company
2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3
Chandler, AZ 85224
Phone: 480.968.8600
Fax: 480.968.8608
www.sec-engr.com
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged.
This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or
organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or
an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby
notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and
its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is
prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please
immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email
from your system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | trimming wheel fairing tire opening |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I am concerned that the opening for the tire in my wheel fairings might not
be large enough, or perhaps I should say high enough. It seems to me that
if your tire goes flat, the wheel fairing should be trimmed high enough so
that the bottom of the fairing doesn't touch the ground. Otherwise the
weight of the plane will be on the fairing rather than the tire.
Is this an excessive amount of trimming? I'm sure some of you had the
experience of opening the hangar and finding a flat. How did your fairings
come through the experience and how high do you have them trimmed?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Some Very Nice Comments... |
Dear Listers,
I've been getting some really nice comments from Listers along with their List
Support Contributions. I've shared some of them below. Please read them over
and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums.
Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation
of these services.
There are lots of sweet gifts available, so browse the extensive selection and
pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
----------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists -----------
Few things in life bring more usefulness than the List. This
is worth every penny!
Stephen T.
I have enjoyed the list for way too many years, but continue
to get closer to flying my project with the help of listers.
C.L.
Thanks for this List. It's been a great source of encouragement
and information.
Arden A.
Great service!
Gerald T.
It's always interesting reading the lists and I've gotten some
good help from the issues and answers there.
Steve T.
Been a member of the List for 12 years. Keep up the good work.
John H.
Great Site!
Harry M.
Great source of information...
Martin H.
Thanks for providing this great service!
Jeff P.
I continue to get and give information through these lists.
Ralph C.
This is a wonderful resource!
Warren H.
This is what inernet was meant for, sharing information and
experience. Michael W.
Thanks for making such a good list!
Fred D.
Thanks for running a great service!
Michael F.
I really appreciate it.
Dan H.
Thanks for the great service.
Michael L.
Thanks for maintaining this great resource.
John C.
Your sites have been a great resourses and an introduction
to many competent aircraft designers and fabricators.
Jon M.
Thanks for all that you do to maintain the Matronics forums
and for the personal help that you have been to me in
answering my questions regarding the use of the forums.
William B.
[The List] helped me get flying, fly off my test hours and
make my systems better. Ralph C.
The Universe is a better place because of you.
Eric J.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ciolino" <johnciolino(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | bleeding brakes? |
There was a recent thread (yesterday) on Vans Air force about brake
bleeding complete with pictures. Take a look and I think it will answer
your questions.
John Ciolino
RV-8 with 18 hours
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 5:36 PM
Subject: RV-List: bleeding brakes?
I will soon need to pour some brake fluid into my RV-6A and, I presume,
to bleed the brakes. I've never done this on a car, let alone a plane.
Can some one direct me to a web page that explains the process?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | trimming wheel fairing tire opening |
Its all up to you Tom=2C but I would think that setting the pants up so hig
h as to protect them from a flat tire would take away some of their effecti
veness. The more tire you can cover=2C the more they will help you go fast
. Mine are pretty low=2C and I have damaged them twice. Once from a tire
stem malfunction during inflation=2C and once taxiing from a hard surface t
o grass=2C the height of the taxiway was just a little high compared to the
grass. All I can say is think about where you will be using your plane an
d set the pant height accordingly.
Paul
RV8
Date: Thu=2C 12 Nov 2009 17:20:06 -0700
Subject: RV-List: trimming wheel fairing tire opening
From: sarg314(at)gmail.com
I am concerned that the opening for the tire in my wheel fairings might not
be large enough=2C or perhaps I should say high enough. It seems to me th
at if your tire goes flat=2C the wheel fairing should be trimmed high enoug
h so that the bottom of the fairing doesn't touch the ground. Otherwise the
weight of the plane will be on the fairing rather than the tire.
Is this an excessive amount of trimming? I'm sure some of you had the expe
rience of opening the hangar and finding a flat. How did your fairings com
e through the experience and how high do you have them trimmed?
Thanks=2C
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dag adamson <dag_adamson(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Right Fuel Line and Rudder Cables - Rv-8A |
Just performing an inspection and found that the rudder cables were rubbing
against the right fuel line that runs to the fuel selector.- While there
is clearance when the cables are slack when they are taught, the cables ar
e acting like a saw in to the fuel line.
-
Chilling.=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door... |
Dear Listers,
I was surfing around on the http://www.mykitlog.com recently and saw where someone had installed an hydraulic strut for holding the front baggage door open on the RV-8 similar to what you see on a hatch-back. I'll be darned if I can remember who that was now. I'd like to do something similar and it would be helpful to know the specs and installation points on the strut.
Anyone?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Contributions Down By 21%... |
Dear Listers,
As of today, contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind
last year at this time by 21%. I have a fund raiser each year simply to cover
my operating costs for the Lists. I *do not* accept any advertising income
to support the Lists and rely solely on the contributions of members to keep the
expenses paid.
I run all of my own servers and they are housed here locally, and the Internet
connection is a commercial-grade, T1 connection with public address space. I
also maintain a full backup system that does nightly backups of all List-related
data so that in the event of a server crash or worse, all of the Lists and
the many years of List archive data could be restored onto a new server in a matter
of hours.
All of this costs a fair amount of money, not to mention a significant amount of
my personal time as well. I have a Fund Raiser each year to cover these costs
and I ask that members that feel they receive a benefit from my investments,
make a modest contribution each year to support the continued operation and
upgrade of these services.
If you enjoy the Lists, please make a contribution today. I also offer some incentive
gifts for larger contribution levels. At the Contribution Web Wite, you
can use a credit card, Paypal, or personal check to show your support for the
continuation of these services:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Huft" <rv8tor(at)lazy8.net> |
| Subject: | Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door... |
Here is one for you, Matt.
http://www.lazy8.net/hinges.htm
john
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, November 15, 2009 5:09 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hydraulic Strut For RV-8 Baggage Door...
Dear Listers,
I was surfing around on the http://www.mykitlog.com recently and saw where
someone had installed an hydraulic strut for holding the front baggage door
open on the RV-8 similar to what you see on a hatch-back. I'll be darned if
I can remember who that was now. I'd like to do something similar and it
would be helpful to know the specs and installation points on the strut.
Anyone?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "plaurence" <peterlaurence6(at)gmail.com> |
Airplane is on wheels. All parts have been etched, chromic converted (
Alodined) and primed with two part epoxy strontium chromate .
Needed to complete:
Engine, (I have a fixed pitch prop) canopy, avionics and paint. Wings and
empennage have been fitted.
For more details call
P Laurence
786 210 4868
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Oil cooler attachment bolts |
I have a SW 8406R oil cooler on my IO360B1F6 in my RV6A.
Temps are fine - even on hot summer days.
Three of the attachment bolts go through both sets of oil cooler flanges (and in
to the back of the #4 baffle plate) with an aluminum tube providing support
between the flanges. One of the bolts only goes through the 'forward' oil cooler
flange and in to the baffle - per Vans oil cooler installation instructions.
I would like to add a Reiff Oil-Cooler-Heater on the side with the single bolt
going through only one flange. It gets cold here on the DelMarVa peninsula in
the winter. In order to do that, I would need to make the other bolt on that
side go only through the 'forward' flange as well.
Does anyone know any reason that I shouldn't do this? Maybe you need pictures
to figure out my description. I'll try to take some them to show.
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Matronic lists and Replies |
The two recent message below illustrate a setup problem with the list.
Clicking the Reply button on your email viewer usually replies only to the
original message sender. If you want to reply to the list you click Reply
All. But the Matronics lists are set up to always reply to the list, even if
you click Reply. I wish this behavior would be changed to the more common
behavior.
--> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Godfrey Lucas"
Dear Matt,
Apologies I have been meaning to do it - busy!!!!
Can I please contribute $25.00 please.
Credit card is VISA
[cut]
Norm
I am replying directly to you rather than the list
[cut]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronic lists and Replies |
The Matronics Lists are configured that way intentionally. I have experimented
with a standard reply going back to just the sender (traditional email mode),
but the problem is that most people don't reply-all back to the List. Too many
threads die out prematurely when the List is configured to reply only to the
sender.
Unfortunately (I guess), you don't need a license to use email... :-)
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
At 10:59 AM 11/16/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>
>The two recent message below illustrate a setup problem with the list.
>Clicking the Reply button on your email viewer usually replies only to the
>original message sender. If you want to reply to the list you click Reply
>All. But the Matronics lists are set up to always reply to the list, even if
>you click Reply. I wish this behavior would be changed to the more common
>behavior.
>
>--> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Godfrey Lucas"
>
>Dear Matt,
>
>Apologies I have been meaning to do it - busy!!!!
>
>Can I please contribute $25.00 please.
>
>Credit card is VISA
>[cut]
>Norm
>I am replying directly to you rather than the list
>[cut]
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronic lists and Replies |
I think Matt has it right! The default behavior is to the list and it
takes a little effort to reply directly to the sender.
John Morgensen
Grumman AA1B 150hp - For Sale
RV4 - Purchased flying
RV9A - wiring
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> The Matronics Lists are configured that way intentionally. I have experimented
with a standard reply going back to just the sender (traditional email mode),
but the problem is that most people don't reply-all back to the List. Too
many threads die out prematurely when the List is configured to reply only to
the sender.
>
> Unfortunately (I guess), you don't need a license to use email... :-)
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Admin
>
>
> At 10:59 AM 11/16/2009 Monday, you wrote:
>
>>
>> The two recent message below illustrate a setup problem with the list.
>> Clicking the Reply button on your email viewer usually replies only to the
>> original message sender. If you want to reply to the list you click Reply
>> All. But the Matronics lists are set up to always reply to the list, even if
>> you click Reply. I wish this behavior would be changed to the more common
>> behavior.
>>
>> --> LycomingEngines-List message posted by: "Godfrey Lucas"
>>
>> Dear Matt,
>>
>> Apologies I have been meaning to do it - busy!!!!
>>
>> Can I please contribute $25.00 please.
>>
>> Credit card is VISA
>> [cut]
>> Norm
>> I am replying directly to you rather than the list
>> [cut]
>>
>>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronic lists and Replies |
Ralph Finch wrote:
>
> The two recent message below illustrate a setup problem with the list.
> Clicking the Reply button on your email viewer usually replies only to the
> original message sender. If you want to reply to the list you click Reply
> All. But the Matronics lists are set up to always reply to the list, even if
> you click Reply. I wish this behavior would be changed to the more common
> behavior.
>
Hi Ralph,
Every list I've ever subscribed to has replies going to the list by
default. Think about it; the email came from the list, not the
individual that originally wrote it. Since the email came from the list,
'reply' goes back to the list.
Completely different environment from a regular email.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Norman Hunger <norman96(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | LED Interior Lights |
Hi everybody, I'm looking for suggestions on interior LED lighting.
I'm after some small fixtures to light the floor and luggage areas.
Also looking for some kind of LED strip light to do the panel. Any
ideas on sources?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Nov 17-09 - 10
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LED Interior Lights |
| From: | jhnstniii(at)aol.com |
Norman--Check out www.aircraftextras.com for electroluminescent lighting
strips. I remember your name from the list years ago. Glad you're back
on the project. It's looking good.
LeRoy Johnston RV-6A N176LD "Esperanza" 240+ hrs. Ohio
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger <norman96(at)telus.net>
Sent: Tue, Nov 17, 2009 8:51 pm
Subject: RV-List: LED Interior Lights
Hi everybody, I'm looking for suggestions on interior LED lighting. I'm af
ter some small fixtures to light the floor and luggage areas. Also looking
for some kind of LED strip light to do the panel. Any ideas on sources?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Nov 17-09 - 10
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hadley Heinrichs <rvhad(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Interior Lights |
Pep Boys!
________________________________
From: Norman Hunger <norman96(at)telus.net>
Sent: Tue, November 17, 2009 7:51:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: LED Interior Lights
Hi everybody, I'm looking for suggestions on interior LED lighting. I'm after some
small fixtures to light the floor and luggage areas. Also looking for some
kind of LED strip light to do the panel. Any ideas on sources?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Nov 17-09 - 10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Interior Lights |
I got a strip of led lights from ACS. Used double sided tape under the glare shield
and wired it to the dimmer for the post lights. Works great.
FLEXIBLE LED INSTRUMENT LIGHTS - WITH CIGARETTE LIGHTER AND DIMMER
Mike Divan
N64GH - RV6 (flying)
http://n64gh.blogspot.com/
FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
Remember it is the Soldier, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Coast Guard that guarantee
your freedom NOT the "community organizer"!
________________________________
From: Hadley Heinrichs <rvhad(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tue, November 17, 2009 6:46:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Interior Lights
Pep Boys!
________________________________
From: Norman Hunger <norman96(at)telus.net>
Sent: Tue, November 17, 2009 7:51:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: LED Interior Lights
Hi everybody, I'm looking for suggestions on interior LED lighting. I'm after some
small fixtures to light the floor and luggage areas. Also looking for some
kind of LED strip light to do the panel. Any ideas on sources?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Nov 17-09 - 10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Nelson <david.nelson(at)pobox.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Interior Lights |
Hi Norman,
I'm planning on installing 2x (one for the pilot and one for the passenger) of
these to the channel between the rollbar and rear bulkhead (tip-up). Each head
has a pair of red and white LEDS that'll be controlled by a locally small
switch to select either red or white.
http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledlights.htm
Regards,
/\/elson
On Tue, 17 Nov 2009, Norman Hunger wrote:
> Hi everybody, I'm looking for suggestions on interior LED lighting. I'm after
> some small fixtures to light the floor and luggage areas. Also looking for
> some kind of LED strip light to do the panel. Any ideas on sources?
>
> Thanks,
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
> Nov 17-09 - 10
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's My Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?" and that's a good question.
Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables. It provides
for the very expensive, commercial-grade T1 Internet connection used on
the List insuring maximum performance and minimal contention when accessing List
services. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling
the highest performance possible for services such as the Archive Search
Engine, List Browser, and Forums. It pays for narly 20 years (yeah, I really
said *20* years) worth of online archive data available for instant random search
and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and
maintaining the custom applications that power this List Service such as the List
Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
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It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many aspects of these valuable
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of the best investments you can make in your Sport...
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Work Bench Cover |
Guys, on some of the RV websites I've noticed work benches covered with som
e sort of protective cover, which
I'm assuming is there to prevent scratches on metal parts. I would apprecia
te any input as to what is used and
where to get it.
Thanks,=C2-=C2-=C2- Walt Shipley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)JohnDeere.com> |
| Subject: | Work Bench Cover |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Work Bench Cover |
Walt,
I don't have a web page. I use carpeting scraps to prevent scratching of aluminum
sheet parts. I usually place this on the work bench just prior to removing
the plastic coating. This is usually for the dimpling process.
I simply go to my local carpet supplier and check out the dumpster behind his
shop. Another material you can use is cork sheet. This is used under carpeting
& laminate flooring. Home Depot carries it, in case you can't find any in the
dumpster! :-)
Charlie Kuss
--- On Wed, 11/18/09, rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> From: rveighta(at)comcast.net <rveighta(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Work Bench Cover
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, November 18, 2009, 7:43 AM
> #yiv2001607845 p
> {margin:0;}Guys,
> on some of the RV websites I've noticed work benches
> covered with some sort of protective cover, which
> I'm assuming is there to prevent scratches on metal
> parts. I would appreciate any input as to what is used
> and
> where to get it.
>
> Thanks, Walt Shipley
>
>
>
> provided
> Admin.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Interior Lights |
www.Superbrightleds.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Hadley Heinrichs
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Interior Lights
Pep Boys!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Norman Hunger <norman96(at)telus.net>
To: RV List
Sent: Tue, November 17, 2009 7:51:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: LED Interior Lights
Hi everybody, I'm looking for suggestions on interior LED lighting.
I'm after some small fixtures to light the floor and luggage areas. Also
looking for some kind of LED strip light to do the panel. Any ideas on
sources?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Nov 17-09 - 10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Interior Lights |
Strip light LEDs in white and colors. Attach to underside of glareshield and windscreen
bow.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17362+OP
Chris Stone
RV-8
Newberg, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: Norman Hunger
Sent: Nov 17, 2009 8:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: LED Interior Lights
Hi everybody, I'm looking for suggestions on interior LED lighting. I'm after some
small fixtures to light the floor and luggage areas. Also looking for some
kind of LED strip light to do the panel. Any ideas on sources?
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Nov 17-09 - 10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Panama Red wrote:
>
> I think I might have missed something. Why are so many RVs having brake
> fires, requiring the redesign of the entire brake system?
I don't think you've missed anything. And there aren't 'many' RVs
having problems. All it takes is a few. Then add those Long EZs,
Velocities etc. that basically started the plastic line implementation
.... and now you have a few more.
From what I know, the problem arises when there's a long taxi with a
crosswind .... the brakes get hot, the plastic gets soft, and it
ruptures. Have you just dodged the bullet? Who knows. All I know is
that it's a weak spot, and I'm going to fix mine.
>
> I have been flying my RV for 8 years with the brakes built exactly to
> the plans. Just wondering, should I ground my RV and redesign the
> entire brake system?
I really think that decision is up to you. Do you like to gamble???
BTW, I've already replaced the plastic brake line between the pass and
pilot side. I don't understand why, on the high pressure side, he uses
plastic from the pass side, then flex (that one I understand) to the
firewall, then hard alum to the gear leg and then plastic to the brake
cylinder.
Linn
>
> Bob
> RV 6 "Wicked Witch of the West"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | elevator trim, manual vs electric |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I am doing final assembly on a 6A. I've never had the trim cable fully
installed before and am running into various problems that have me
reconsidering things.
The manual trim has the advantage that it is not electric - no wiring, no
dependence on the electrical system. I also like the very positive
connection from my hand to the trim tab. But, (I'm guessing here) the
electric looks like it's a lot easier to install. It's probably also a lot
lighter. Though, I've heard lots of stories about the servo's running away.
Have any of you converted from manual trim to electric? Is the electric
easier to install/live with?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
Tom,
I went with the Gretz relocated electric trim from day one. Control is on a hat
switch on the stick grip. During my initial transition training, I practiced
controlling the elevator with the trim in the opposite direction (probably ought
to practice that again as it was quite a while ago).
My only disappointment has been the little displays - I've had to replace them
a couple of time as one of the internal LED's quit.
No other issues,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Nov 18, 2009 12:19 PM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
>
>I am doing final assembly on a 6A. I've never had the trim cable fully
>installed before and am running into various problems that have me
>reconsidering things.
>
>The manual trim has the advantage that it is not electric - no wiring, no
>dependence on the electrical system. I also like the very positive
>connection from my hand to the trim tab. But, (I'm guessing here) the
>electric looks like it's a lot easier to install. It's probably also a lot
>lighter. Though, I've heard lots of stories about the servo's running away.
>
>Have any of you converted from manual trim to electric? Is the electric
>easier to install/live with?
>
>--
>Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Hi Dave
Yes, I did install the thicker rotors on my RV-6A. I really love the solid
feel I now have. Since they are twice the mass, the same amount of heat
energy only raises the rotor temperature approx 1/2 of the thinner rotors -
helps keeps the seals from cooking as well as helping to prevent temps high
enough to set off the brake fluid.
Aircraft Spruce at one time (and may still) offered a thicker rotor kit
#199-93 assembly. However, at the time it was close to $350 and I decided
to see if I could do better (did!).
The Cleveland/parker part number for the thicker rotor disc is 164-09900.
However, I used the Rappco part RA 164-09900 from Chief Aircraft for $84.00
each
http://www.chiefaircraft.com/airsec/Aircraft/Brakes/BrakeDiscs.html
That was the expense 2 * 84 = $168 for both rotors, the rest of the fittings
I made in my shop. There were the 1/8" pad spacer described below and the
longer aluminum bushings to stand off the wheel pant. At the time I made
up some new wheel pant brackets out of SS since I had lost one on the burnt
up wheel pant.
Now some of the more recent RVs (such as the 8s) have a slightly different
brake set up due to the plate gear rod - so this may not apply to them.
Otherwise, pretty straight forward.
You do have to have a 1/8" (0.125") shim plate to place between the two pad
holders to compensate for the thicker rotor for each wheel. If you buy them
they cost about the same as the rotors, the cheapest I could find were
$84.00 EACH - which I though absurd given the rotors only cost $85 each. So
I made mine out of 6061-T6 1/8" aluminum plate/sheet. They will have to be
curved on the underside (axle edge) to match the curvature of the rotor -
but not a big job. The most critical thing (and not that hard) is to make
certain the holes in the plate match the pad holes - you don't want the
spacer binding. Took me approx 30 minutes to make both. I anodize them
for corrosion resistance.
Also, I had to lengthen the aluminum tubes used to stand off the wheel pant
attachment bracket by approx 1/8" otherwise the thicker rotor wanted to rub
on the bracket. Again, no biggie.
I also switched to stainless steel braided Teflon brake lines, they give the
brakes a much more solid feel and much less likely to rupture. I personally
will never go back to the aluminum lines myself - but that is just my
personal viewpoint, thousands are flying with them.
Hope this helps
Ed
http://www.andersonee.com
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
http://www.flyrotary.com/
http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dave.gribble(at)mchsi.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: Brake Fire wasRV-List: Brakes
Hi Ed - thanks for posting.... can you post the part number / source /
approximate $$ of the thicker rotors?
Thanks again,
dave
-------------- Original message ----------------------
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 3267 (20080714) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rveighta(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
Tom, I built an RV-8A with manual trim and an RV-8 with electric trim, and
for me I'd go with the manual trim if I had it to do over in
another plane. Two reasons: first the manual cable seemed easier to install
=C2- and secondly and most important, the manual trim
allowed me to precisely adjust trim for any speed. With the electric, preci
se trim at cruise speeds was dang near impossible.
Just my 2 cents.....
Walt Shipley
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 12:19:05 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
I am doing final assembly on a 6A. I've never had the trim cable fully inst
alled before and am running into various problems that have me reconsiderin
g things.
The manual trim has the advantage that it is not electric - no wiring, no d
ependence on the electrical system.=C2- I also like the very positive con
nection from my hand to the trim tab.=C2- But, (I'm guessing here) the el
ectric looks like it's a lot easier to install.=C2- It's probably also a
lot lighter.=C2- Though, I've heard lots of stories about the servo's run
ning away.
Have any of you converted from manual trim to electric?=C2- Is the electr
ic easier to install/live with?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Utsey" <randy(at)djdist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
Tom, I have 260 hrs on my manual trim RV-7 and would do it again as the
trim is so precise and sensitive and it can't break (or not very
likely)! 1/4" adjustments at the trim knob are all that is required
when you are nearing cruise speed and altitude.
Randy Utsey
RV-7 / N55CU
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
Tom, I built an RV-8A with manual trim and an RV-8 with electric trim,
and for me I'd go with the manual trim if I had it to do over in
another plane. Two reasons: first the manual cable seemed easier to
install and secondly and most important, the manual trim
allowed me to precisely adjust trim for any speed. With the electric,
precise trim at cruise speeds was dang near impossible.
Just my 2 cents.....
Walt Shipley
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
To: "rv-list"
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 12:19:05 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
Eastern
Subject: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
I am doing final assembly on a 6A. I've never had the trim cable fully
installed before and am running into various problems that have me
reconsidering things.
The manual trim has the advantage that it is not electric - no wiring,
no dependence on the electrical system. I also like the very positive
connection from my hand to the trim tab. But, (I'm guessing here) the
electric looks like it's a lot easier to install. It's probably also a
lot lighter. Though, I've heard lots of stories about the servo's
running away.
Have any of you converted from manual trim to electric? Is the
electric easier to install/live with?
--
Tom Sargent
_blank>www.aeroelectric.com
/" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com
=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
p://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
| From: | larygagnon(at)aol.com |
Tom,
I've done both and I prefer the manual. The electric is very sensitive
at cruise but works well in the pattern. I've seen various devices to ch
ange the speed of the servo depending on your airspeed but they are expe
nsive and add complexity. I'll take the weight penalty of the manual. Do
n't forget the size of the mount on the trim tab is different from manual
to electric.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG
-----Original Message
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Nov 18, 2009 12:19 pm
Subject: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
I am doing final assembly on a 6A. I've never had the trim cable fully ins
talled before and am running into various problems that have me reconsider
ing things.
The manual trim has the advantage that it is not electric - no wiring, no
dependence on the electrical system. I also like the very positive conne
ction from my hand to the trim tab. But, (I'm guessing here) the electric
looks like it's a lot easier to install. It's probably also a lot lighte
r. Though, I've heard lots of stories about the servo's running away.
Have any of you converted from manual trim to electric? Is the electric
easier to install/live with?
--
Tom Sargent
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Work Bench Cover |
Walt, I have used the light weight rubber mats you can get at Fleet
Farm or Home Depot, however, pine table tops are just fine or whatever
material you have available. I'm moving my project to the hangar this
week and making a few more tables. Good luck!
Jim Fogarty
RV9a Building
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 6:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Work Bench Cover
Guys, on some of the RV websites I've noticed work benches covered
with some sort of protective cover, which
I'm assuming is there to prevent scratches on metal parts. I would
appreciate any input as to what is used and
where to get it.
Thanks, Walt Shipley
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Work Bench Cover |
Try short mesh carpet (I think they call it berber). That's what I use
and it works great.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc.
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Work Bench Cover
Walt, I have used the light weight rubber mats you can get at Fleet
Farm or Home Depot, however, pine table tops are just fine or whatever
material you have available. I'm moving my project to the hangar this
week and making a few more tables. Good luck!
Jim Fogarty
RV9a Building
----- Original Message -----
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 6:43 AM
Subject: RV-List: Work Bench Cover
Guys, on some of the RV websites I've noticed work benches covered
with some sort of protective cover, which
I'm assuming is there to prevent scratches on metal parts. I would
appreciate any input as to what is used and
where to get it.
Thanks, Walt Shipley
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href='3D"http://www.aeroelectric.com"'>www.aeroelectric.com
href='3D"http://www.buildersbooks.com"'>www.buildersbooks.com
href='3D"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"'>www.homebuilthelp.com
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"'>http://www.matronics.c
om/contribution
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href='3D"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"'>http://www.matron
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
href='3D"http://forums.matronics.com"'>http://forums.matronics.com
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
11/18/09 01:50:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
This is a tough trade off analysis, and a lot of it is purely
subjective; Here's my take.
Cost: the manual is far cheaper
Installation: I believe the Installation is slightly easier on the
electric but shoe horning that servo in to the elevator is not easy.
If the Gretz version is still available, it makes the electric way
easier.
weight: The electric is far lighter.
Space: The manual takes up a bit of space in the cockpit so the
electric gets the nod.
Feel: This is very subjective to say the least. For my money the
manual has a far better feel and preciseness. To add to the bargain
you can see what you got for take off or go around. Easier to set,
and quicker too. Most pilots don't like the lack of feed back from
the electric servo and its slowness. You can get various speed
changers and gain switchers. Bottom line is most pilots who have
flown with electric trim before can get accustomed to the
shortcomings. I did.
Safety: Probably the most debated issue. Surely "runaway trim" is a
possibility with the electric. It is not a possibility with the manual.
I know lots of folks will come after me for saying this, but I don't
think it is a significant problem in an RV-6A. First of all most of
the dark and stormy night horror stories are about big airplanes with
stabilizer trim. On the B-52 it was a real threat. The huge
hydraulic motors could drive the huge stabilizer very quickly to a
position far beyond you ability to overcome the pitch force with the
puny elevator. With elevator trim in the RV 6A. you do not lose
elevator effectiveness when the trim tab takes off. For example if
the trim runs away to full down (tab up) and you counter it with up
elevator, then your effective elevator power is actually more than if
the tab were elsewhere.
I have tested many times and the elevator force required to overcome
full up trim on take off is easily manageable. I don't know how fast
you can go and still control it with our using both hands but I
believe it is do able. I leave it to Kevin Horton to do this test for
us.
As for me I installed a pullable circuit breaker for the trim power
which is easily accessible. It has never been used in flight.
I went with the electric and have had several failures, all broken
wires. I replaced most of the wires with mil spec 22 ga and solved
that problem. These failures would cause me to lose trim altogether.
Basically an inconvenience in the RV-6A.
Good luck on your choice.. I like both systems, but went with the
electric and have no regrets. My little servo has 2400 hours on it
and still works. I used the matronics speed controller and ordered a
new improved one after the old one was ten years old, got rained on,
and became intermittent. When pulling it out to switch I found a
loose connection so it is still in the plane (with a rain guard) and I
have a spare if you want to make an offer. ; ).
LET THE flames begin on my rant about runaway trim. I would surely
like to hear from someone who has experienced it with an RV-6.
Denis
On Nov 18, 2009, at 10:19 , thomas sargent wrote:
> I am doing final assembly on a 6A. I've never had the trim cable
> fully installed before and am running into various problems that
> have me reconsidering things.
>
> The manual trim has the advantage that it is not electric - no
> wiring, no dependence on the electrical system. I also like the
> very positive connection from my hand to the trim tab. But, (I'm
> guessing here) the electric looks like it's a lot easier to
> install. It's probably also a lot lighter. Though, I've heard lots
> of stories about the servo's running away.
>
> Have any of you converted from manual trim to electric? Is the
> electric easier to install/live with?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon or Marge" <gcomfo(at)tc3net.com> |
| Subject: | Work Bench Cover |
Subject: RV-List: Work Bench Cover
Guys, on some of the RV websites I've noticed work benches covered with
some
sort of protective cover, which
I'm assuming is there to prevent scratches on metal parts. I would
appreciate any input as to what is used and
where to get it.
Thanks, Walt Shipley
Old timers have used and I continue to use a corrugated cardboard bench
cover. It's cheap, usually free, and heavier versions make a good
surface
for working on. The smooth surface does not retain particulates and a
brushing followed by a bare handed wipe makes a clean enough area that
you
can slide aluminum around without scratching it. Gordon Comfort,
N363GC.
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Work Bench Cover |
Walt,
Try kitchen drawer liner from Big Lots, perforated- foam rubber,- brigh
t, soft and non slip.
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
N497GS reserved
Carlsbad, NM
--- On Wed, 11/18/09, rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net <rveighta(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Work Bench Cover
Date: Wednesday, November 18, 2009, 5:43 AM
#yiv1329106890 p {margin:0;}
Guys, on some of the RV websites I've noticed work benches covered with som
e sort of protective cover, which
I'm assuming is there to prevent scratches on metal parts. I would apprecia
te any input as to what is used and
where to get it.
-
Thanks,--- Walt Shipley
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Work Bench Cover |
I built the EAA chapter 1000 work tables. About the same time, I found
these 2X5' mats at Woodcrafters. They are thick rubber, made for standing
on. Perfect fit for the benches. Firm but totally protect aluminum.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8
San Ramon
In a message dated 11/18/2009 5:50:36 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
chaskuss(at)yahoo.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Kuss
Walt,
I don't have a web page. I use carpeting scraps to prevent scratching of
aluminum sheet parts. I usually place this on the work bench just prior to
removing the plastic coating. This is usually for the dimpling process.
I simply go to my local carpet supplier and check out the dumpster behind
his shop. Another material you can use is cork sheet. This is used under
carpeting & laminate flooring. Home Depot carries it, in case you can't find
any in the dumpster! :-)
Charlie Kuss
--- On Wed, 11/18/09, rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote:
> From: rveighta(at)comcast.net <rveighta(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Work Bench Cover
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, November 18, 2009, 7:43 AM
> #yiv2001607845 p
> {margin:0;}Guys,
> on some of the RV websites I've noticed work benches
> covered with some sort of protective cover, which
> I'm assuming is there to prevent scratches on metal
> parts. I would appreciate any input as to what is used
> and
> where to get it.
>
> Thanks, Walt Shipley
>
>
>
> provided
> Admin.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
On my flying RV6
Manual aileron trim = love it
Electric Elevator trim = HATE IT!
If I ever finish my RV7 both will be manual
Mike Divan
N64GH - RV6 (flying)
http://n64gh.blogspot.com/
FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS!
Remember it is the Soldier, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Coast Guard that guarantee
your freedom NOT the "community organizer"!
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | elevator trim, manual vs electric |
Can you explain further? Please?
RF
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Divan
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
On my flying RV6
Manual aileron trim = love it
Electric Elevator trim = HATE IT!
If I ever finish my RV7 both will be manual
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
I have 2000 plus hours on my RV8 with the electric trim on aeleron and
elevater. I installed a 4 position top hat switch on the top of the
control stick for easy operation. The only mod was to install a speed
reducer on the elevator trim motor. It was an easy install. The speed
reducer is necessaary on the elevator inorder to fine tune elevator
cruise position. The aeleron trim allows me to use all of the fuel from
each tank at one time on long trips . It is nice to know exactly when a
tank is out on a long trip. I did not use tabs for the trim. I cut
sections from the trailing edge and made new pieces that are hinged as a
part of the aeleron /eleator. Nothing sticks out.
It takes time to do this, but i found it well worth the effort.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
IO-390
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 11:19 AM
Subject: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
I am doing final assembly on a 6A. I've never had the trim cable fully
installed before and am running into various problems that have me
reconsidering things.
The manual trim has the advantage that it is not electric - no wiring,
no dependence on the electrical system. I also like the very positive
connection from my hand to the trim tab. But, (I'm guessing here) the
electric looks like it's a lot easier to install. It's probably also a
lot lighter. Though, I've heard lots of stories about the servo's
running away.
Have any of you converted from manual trim to electric? Is the
electric easier to install/live with?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
Well, Vans eliminated the choice for the RV-10. Electric elevator trim only.
Mike Divan wrote:
> On my flying RV6
> Manual aileron trim = love it
> Electric Elevator trim = HATE IT!
> If I ever finish my RV7 both will be manual
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim, manual vs electric |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for all the useful responses on the trim issue. I guess the easiest
thing for me to do is to stick with the manual trim. I'm most of the way
down that road, so I will continue in that direction.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
| From: | Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com> |
Hi, My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking for the
PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy or rent
this cable...does anyone have one??
Thanks,
Tom Wright 203-551-0746
PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any included
attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 U.S.C.
2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is confidential and intended
only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review, dissemination,
distribution, copying or other use of this information by or to anyone other than
the
intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication
in
error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from your system.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
I'm interested in this - just in case.
I have a LASAR system in my 6A and knock on wood it's currently fine.
I would be willing to build a cable if someone has the pinouts...
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com>
>Sent: Nov 19, 2009 11:52 AM
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
>
>Hi, My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking for the
>PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy or rent
>this cable...does anyone have one??
>
>Thanks,
>Tom Wright 203-551-0746
>
>PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any included
>attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 U.S.C.
> 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is confidential and intended
>only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review, dissemination,
>distribution, copying or other use of this information by or to anyone other than
the
>intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication
in
>error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from your system.
>Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | elevator trim, manual vs electric |
I have manual trim and am not flying yet. But one thing it kinda hoses up is
wiring runs. One of the holes on the left side of the tunnel in my RV-7a is
dedicated to a big manual trim cable (and also an ELT wiring run. ) I don't
have much electrical stuff in the plane but the hole right side of the
tunnel is full up with two strobe cables, a strobe power cable, a nav light
cable, and an ELT instrument panel light cable. I could sure use some more
room back there.
and I havne't even run any antenna cables yet.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph Finch
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
Can you explain further? Please?
RF
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Divan
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 5:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator trim, manual vs electric
On my flying RV6
Manual aileron trim = love it
Electric Elevator trim = HATE IT!
If I ever finish my RV7 both will be manual
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
| From: | Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com> |
It has to be fairly simple...8 pins. I could build one also if I just had
the pin outs. BTW, I have put 300 hours on my RV-8 and it has worked great
but it (LASAR) suddenly quit in cruise flight...everything is connected and
the LASAR rep says to get the cable and readout the diagnostic. Cable is
ridiculous at $160. I wish I could rent one...then I would make my own.
On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 12:47 PM, Ralph E. Capen wro
te:
>
> I'm interested in this - just in case.
>
> I have a LASAR system in my 6A and knock on wood it's currently fine.
>
> I would be willing to build a cable if someone has the pinouts...
>
> Ralph Capen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com>
> >Sent: Nov 19, 2009 11:52 AM
> >To: RV List
> >Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
> >
> >Hi, My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking for t
he
> >PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy or re
nt
> >this cable...does anyone have one??
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Tom Wright 203-551-0746
> >
> >PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any
> included
> >attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18
> U.S.C.
> >=A7=A7 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is confiden
tial
> and intended
> >only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review,
> dissemination,
> >distribution, copying or other use of this information by or to anyone
> other than the
> >intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received this
> communication in
> >error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from your
> system.
> >Thank you.
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any incl
uded
attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18
U.S.C.
=A7=A7 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is confident
ial and intended
only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review, disseminati
on,
distribution, copying or other use of this information by or to anyone ot
her than the
intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received this comm
unication in
error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from your sys
tem.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
I hate to suggest the obvious, but have you asked the LASAR folks for
the pinout of the cable???
Linn
Tom Wright wrote:
> It has to be fairly simple...8 pins. I could build one also if I just
> had the pin outs. BTW, I have put 300 hours on my RV-8 and it has
> worked great but it (LASAR) suddenly quit in cruise flight...everything
> is connected and the LASAR rep says to get the cable and readout the
> diagnostic. Cable is ridiculous at $160. I wish I could rent
> one...then I would make my own.
>
> On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 12:47 PM, Ralph E. Capen > wrote:
>
> >
>
> I'm interested in this - just in case.
>
> I have a LASAR system in my 6A and knock on wood it's currently fine.
>
> I would be willing to build a cable if someone has the pinouts...
>
> Ralph Capen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com <mailto:tomw(at)charterops.com>>
> >Sent: Nov 19, 2009 11:52 AM
> >To: RV List >
> >Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
> >
> >Hi, My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking
> for the
> >PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy
> or rent
> >this cable...does anyone have one??
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Tom Wright 203-551-0746
> >
> >PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in
> any included
> >attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy
> Act, 18 U.S.C.
> > 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is
> confidential and intended
> >only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review,
> dissemination,
> >distribution, copying or other use of this information by or to
> anyone other than the
> >intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received
> this communication in
> >error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from
> your system.
> >Thank you.
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> le, List Admin.
> ==========
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
>
>
>
>
> PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any included
> attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 U.S.C.
> 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is confidential and intended
> only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review, dissemination,
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than the
> intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication
in
> error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from your system.
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
| From: | Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com> |
Actually no...great idea, i just assumed they wouldn't provide it but of
course it never hurts to ask.
On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 2:59 PM, Linn Walters wr
ote:
>
> I hate to suggest the obvious, but have you asked the LASAR folks for the
> pinout of the cable???
> Linn
>
> Tom Wright wrote:
>
>> It has to be fairly simple...8 pins. I could build one also if I just h
ad
>> the pin outs. BTW, I have put 300 hours on my RV-8 and it has worked gr
eat
>> but it (LASAR) suddenly quit in cruise flight...everything is connected
and
>> the LASAR rep says to get the cable and readout the diagnostic. Cable i
s
>> ridiculous at $160. I wish I could rent one...then I would make my own.
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 12:47 PM, Ralph E. Capen > recapen(at)earthlink.net>> wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>>
>> I'm interested in this - just in case.
>>
>> I have a LASAR system in my 6A and knock on wood it's currently fine.
>>
>> I would be willing to build a cable if someone has the pinouts...
>>
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com <mailto:tomw(at)charterops.com>>
>> >Sent: Nov 19, 2009 11:52 AM
>> >To: RV List >
>> >Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
>> >
>> >Hi, My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking
>> for the
>> >PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy
>> or rent
>> >this cable...does anyone have one??
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Tom Wright 203-551-0746
>> >
>> >PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in
>> any included
>> >attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy
>> Act, 18 U.S.C.
>> >=A7=A7 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is
>>
>> confidential and intended
>> >only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review,
>> dissemination,
>> >distribution, copying or other use of this information by or to
>> anyone other than the
>> >intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received
>> this communication in
>> >error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from
>> your system.
>> >Thank you.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
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=A7=A7 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is confident
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| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
Good idea - I was going to look in my reference documentation first. I just started
thinking about this from the original post....
Need an afternoon coffee
-----Original Message-----
>From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Nov 19, 2009 2:59 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
>
>
>I hate to suggest the obvious, but have you asked the LASAR folks for
>the pinout of the cable???
>Linn
>
>Tom Wright wrote:
>> It has to be fairly simple...8 pins. I could build one also if I just
>> had the pin outs. BTW, I have put 300 hours on my RV-8 and it has
>> worked great but it (LASAR) suddenly quit in cruise flight...everything
>> is connected and the LASAR rep says to get the cable and readout the
>> diagnostic. Cable is ridiculous at $160. I wish I could rent
>> one...then I would make my own.
>>
>> On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 12:47 PM, Ralph E. Capen > > wrote:
>>
>> >
>>
>> I'm interested in this - just in case.
>>
>> I have a LASAR system in my 6A and knock on wood it's currently fine.
>>
>> I would be willing to build a cable if someone has the pinouts...
>>
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> >From: Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com <mailto:tomw(at)charterops.com>>
>> >Sent: Nov 19, 2009 11:52 AM
>> >To: RV List >
>> >Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
>> >
>> >Hi, My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking
>> for the
>> >PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy
>> or rent
>> >this cable...does anyone have one??
>> >
>> >Thanks,
>> >Tom Wright 203-551-0746
>> >
>> >PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in
>> any included
>> >attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy
>> Act, 18 U.S.C.
>> > 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition, it is
>> confidential and intended
>> >only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review,
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>> >intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received
>> this communication in
>> >error, please notify us immediately and delete this message from
>> your system.
>> >Thank you.
>>
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>>
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>> ==========
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
Just a note to the guys located in SoCAL.
I have the PC to LASAR controller box cable=2C the T100 tool kit=2C all the
factory manuals=2C a current subscription to the manuals=2C the LASAR timi
ng light=2C a spare controller box (O-360 w/o CHT)=2C and three spare LASAR
mags (one has 25-hours [w/sensor]=2C the other two ~ 500 hours[1-w/sensor
=2C 1-w/o sensor).
NO I will not ship the cable. I also have never used it.
I purchased the cable from Bart at AeroSport Power in Kamloops=2C BC. He an
d Sue will give you some of the best prices on LASAR parts/equipment.
Gary A. Sobek
A&P
DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C334+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA (hangared KCCB)
http://www.rvdar.com
Date: Thu=2C 19 Nov 2009 11:52:54 -0500
Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
From: tomw(at)charterops.com
Hi=2C My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking for th
e PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy or ren
t this cable...does anyone have one??
Thanks=2C
Tom Wright 203-551-0746
PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any includ
ed
attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act=2C 18
U.S.C.
=A7=A7 2510-2521=2C and is legally privileged. In addition=2C it is confide
ntial and intended
only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review=2C disseminati
on=2C
distribution=2C copying or other use of this information by or to anyone ot
her than the
intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received this commun
ication in
error=2C please notify us immediately and delete this message from your sys
tem.
Thank you.
_________________________________________________________________
Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:
WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen:112009v2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
Gary,
Are you willing to give us the pinout?
----- Original Message -----
From: RV6 Flyer
To: RV List
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 8:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
Just a note to the guys located in SoCAL.
I have the PC to LASAR controller box cable, the T100 tool kit, all
the factory manuals, a current subscription to the manuals, the LASAR
timing light, a spare controller box (O-360 w/o CHT), and three spare
LASAR mags (one has 25-hours [w/sensor], the other two ~ 500
hours[1-w/sensor, 1-w/o sensor).
NO I will not ship the cable. I also have never used it.
I purchased the cable from Bart at AeroSport Power in Kamloops, BC. He
and Sue will give you some of the best prices on LASAR parts/equipment.
Gary A. Sobek
A&P
DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,334+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA (hangared KCCB)
http://www.rvdar.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 11:52:54 -0500
Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
From: tomw(at)charterops.com
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Hi, My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has failed. I am looking for
the PC to LASAR box cable to run troubleshooting. I would like to buy
or rent this cable...does anyone have one??
Thanks,
Tom Wright 203-551-0746
PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any
includedattachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C.=A7=A7 2510-2521, and is legally privileged. In addition,
it is confidential and intendedonly for the use of the recipient(s)
named above. The review, dissemination,distribution, copying or other
use of this information by or to anyone other than theintended recipient
is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication inerror,
please notify us immediately and delete this message from your
system.Thank you.www.buildersbooks-->
http://forums.matronics.co================
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Windows 7: It works the way you want. Learn more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | PC to LASAR ignition test cable. |
There is no pin out that I can find in the documentation. They want to SELL
you the cable. I have not tried to reverse engineer it and my time is wor
th more than the cost of the cable to reverse engineer it.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C334+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: PC to LASAR ignition test cable.
Date: Thu=2C 19 Nov 2009 21:13:41 -0500
Gary=2C
Are you willing to give us the
pinout?
----- Original Message -----
From:
RV6
Flyer
To: RV List
Sent: Thursday=2C November 19=2C 2009 8:41
PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: PC to LASAR
ignition test cable.
Just a note to the guys located in SoCAL.
I have
the PC to LASAR controller box cable=2C the T100 tool kit=2C all the fact
ory
manuals=2C a current subscription to the manuals=2C the LASAR timing ligh
t=2C a
spare controller box (O-360 w/o CHT)=2C and three spare LASAR mags (one h
as
25-hours [w/sensor]=2C the other two ~ 500 hours[1-w/sensor=2C 1-w/o
sensor).
NO I will not ship the cable. I also have never used
it.
I purchased the cable from Bart at AeroSport Power in Kamloops=2C BC.
He and Sue will give you some of the best prices on LASAR
parts/equipment.
Gary A. Sobek
A&P
DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6
N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C334+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
(hangared KCCB)
http://www.rvdar.com
Date: Thu=2C 19 Nov 2009 11:52:54 -0500
Subject: RV-List: PC to LASAR
ignition test cable.
From: tomw(at)charterops.com
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Hi=2C My IO-360 has a LASAR ignition that has
failed. I am looking for the PC to LASAR box cable to run
troubleshooting. I would like to buy or rent this cable...does anyone
have one??
Thanks=2C
Tom Wright 203-551-0746
PRIVACY NOTICE: The information contained in this e-mail (and in any includ
ed
attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act=2C 18
U.S.C.
=A7=A7 2510-2521=2C and is legally privileged. In addition=2C it is confide
ntial and intended
only for the use of the recipient(s) named above. The review=2C disseminati
on=2C
distribution=2C copying or other use of this information by or to anyone ot
her than the
intended recipient is strictly prohibited. If you have received this commun
ication in
error=2C please notify us immediately and delete this message from your sys
tem.
Thank you.
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href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
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Bing brings you maps=2C menus=2C and reviews organized in one place.
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| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left; Still Trailing Last Year... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few more days left of this year's List Fund Raiser! Response
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> |
For those of you who wonder why the list is so long, and whether you can
do anything to help reduce it, consider deleting most or all of the text
of the message you are replying to. It would really help not to have to
read someone else's privacy statement six times. Ideally, just keep the
line or two of text relevant to what you are replying to.
Respectfully,
Ian Brown, RV-9A, Bromont, Quebec
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw:LASAR cabling to computer |
Here's what I got from Joe Logie at Champaero - they now support the product line.
-----Forwarded Message-----
>From: JoeLogie(at)champaero.com
>Sent: Nov 20, 2009 8:45 AM
>To: "Ralph E. Capen"
>Subject: Re: Fw: RE: LASAR cabling to computer
>
>Ralph, Sorry, should have read the whole e-mail stream first! Slick
>recommends not leaving anything connected to the controller during flight
>to preclude any "antenna effect" possibly interfering with the
>micro-processor.
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Ralph E. Capen [mailto:recapen(at)earthlink.net]
>>Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 6:51 PM
>>To: TRANS Unison Piston Product Support (Unison, Non-Unison)
>>Subject: Fw: LASAR cabling to computer
>>
>>Tried to send this to Joe - but it bounced.
>>
>>Can anyone there help me?
>>
>>I'm looking for pinout diagrams for the RS232 cable connecting the LASAR
>>controller to a computer for diagnostics....
>>
>>Ralph Capen
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>>To: "Logie, Joe (Unison, US)"
>>Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2009 6:28 PM
>>Subject: LASAR cabling to computer
>>
>>
>>> Is there a diagram with the pinouts?
>>>
>>> If not, can you give them to me?
>>>
>>> I would like to make a cable with a disconnect at the firewall in case
>>I
>>> need to do troubleshooting.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ralph
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