RV-Archive.digest.vol-ui
December 18, 2009 - January 31, 2010
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Humphrey" <mike109g6(at)insideconnect.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming Fiberglass |
Regular auto primer. Be careful what you use though depending on what
your final color paint is going to be, ie imron, epoxy, waterbased, etc.
check for compatibility.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: Valovich, Paul
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 5:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Priming Fiberglass
I have completed fitting the canopy skirts, cowl, wheel pants and
fairing for my -8A. I plan to delay painting until after the plane
accumulates some hours. I was going to apply primer to the fiberglass -
Sems Self-Etching grey - the same stuff I used on the metal.
However, a VAF poster said that self-etching primer is not to be used
on fiberglass. When I then asked for an alternative, I received limited
response.
How valid is the assertion that selfetching primer doesn't work on
fiberglass. I did apply a single coat to my canopy skirts over a year
ago and they seem fine. And can anyone recommend a Sems alternative?
Paul Valovich
Ridgecrest, CA
N192NM Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Gray" <bgray(at)glasair.org> |
| Subject: | Priming Fiberglass |
Hold on a minute here. If the parts are made with vinyl ester resin, use
a polyester primer. If made with epoxy resin, use an epoxy primer. Do
the final primer coat with whatever primer your paint manufacturer
recommends. DO NOT SAND OFF ALL THE GEL COAT.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Humphrey
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 1:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Priming Fiberglass
Regular auto primer. Be careful what you use though depending on what
your final color paint is going to be, ie imron, epoxy, waterbased, etc.
check for compatibility.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: Valovich, <mailto:pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com> Paul
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2009 5:55 PM
Subject: RV-List: Priming Fiberglass
I have completed fitting the canopy skirts, cowl, wheel pants and
fairing for my -8A. I plan to delay painting until after the plane
accumulates some hours. I was going to apply primer to the fiberglass -
Sems Self-Etching grey - the same stuff I used on the metal.
However, a VAF poster said that self-etching primer is not to be used on
fiberglass. When I then asked for an alternative, I received limited
response.
How valid is the assertion that selfetching primer doesn't work on
fiberglass. I did apply a single coat to my canopy skirts over a year
ago and they seem fine. And can anyone recommend a Sems alternative?
Paul Valovich
Ridgecrest, CA
N192NM Reserved
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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Priming Fiberglass |
Yes. The primer that you use on the metal should also be applied over the f
iberglass primer before you paint. There will be a color miss match if ther
e is a different color primer under the final paint. Most color coats requ
ire that the primer be shot within 24-hours before the color coat else sand
ing is necessary.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C338+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: bgray(at)glasair.org
Subject: RE: RV-List: Priming Fiberglass
Date: Fri=2C 18 Dec 2009 01:50:06 -0500
Hold on
a minute here. If the parts are made with vinyl ester resin=2C use a polyes
ter
primer. If made with epoxy resin=2C use an epoxy primer. Do the final prime
r coat
with whatever primer your paint manufacturer recommends. DO NOT SAND OFF AL
L
THE GEL COAT.
Bruce
www.Glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Mike Humphrey
Sent: Friday=2C December 18=2C 2009
1:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Priming
Fiberglass
Regular auto primer. Be
careful what you use though depending on what your final color paint is goi
ng
to be=2C ie imron=2C epoxy=2C waterbased=2C etc. check for compatibility.
Mike H
----- Original Message -----
From: Valovich=2C
Paul
Sent: Thursday=2C
December 17=2C 2009 5:55 PM
Subject: RV-List:
Priming Fiberglass
I have completed fitting the canopy skirts=2C cowl=2C
wheel pants and fairing for my -8A. I plan to delay painting until after th
e
plane accumulates some hours. I was going to apply primer to the fiberglass
' Sems Self-Etching grey ' the same stuff I used on the metal.
However=2C a VAF poster said that self-etching primer is
not to be used on fiberglass. When I then asked for an alternative=2C I rec
eived
limited response.
How valid is the assertion that selfetching primer
doesn=92t work on fiberglass. I did apply a single coat to my canopy skirts
over a year ago and they seem fine. And can anyone recommend a Sems
alternative?
Paul Valovich
Ridgecrest=2C CA
N192NM Reserved
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spring
clip. There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so the
thing is pretty easily removable. My problem is that it wobbles slightly.
I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 layer of
scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousandths
undersize. Still it's easy to feel. Even when the pilot stick is moved I
can feel the passenger stick rattling around.
Does any one have any suggestions for securing this?
Thanks
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | where to put fire extinguisher |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher yet. Is there a
"standard" spot for this in an RV-6A? Looking for an easy (=quick)
installation idea.
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: where to put fire extinguisher |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
How about under the cowl with a remote pull pin? Just kidding. Or maybe
not.
I had a small Halon bottle lying loose in my custom panel glove box, until
the day my wife shut the door on it with some loose object (probably a CD
player) in front of the discharge button. Hissing noise and "smoke" in
flight made me think a 2 gauge cable had shorted to ground for a second. We
laughed later. A lot later.
Bill /Stormy / 6A
On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 11:40 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
> I just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher yet. Is there a
> "standard" spot for this in an RV-6A? Looking for an easy (=quick)
> installation idea.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: passenger stick |
On 12/19/2009 10:38 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
> I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spring
> clip. There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so the
> thing is pretty easily removable. My problem is that it wobbles slightly.
> I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 layer of
> scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousandths
> undersize. Still it's easy to feel. Even when the pilot stick is moved I
> can feel the passenger stick rattling around.
> Does any one have any suggestions for securing this?
>
> Thanks
Deform the end of the stick just enough to make it less "round". That
should make it a friction fit in the socket.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: passenger stick |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Tom, I replaced the supplied steel tube with hardware store aluminum, for
weight savings and because the steel stick caused my panel mounted compass
to go nuts. A spiral wrap of black electrician's tape (not overlapping)
makes for a snug fit. I removed the stick-mounted pax PTT switch when I
made the change, and did not realize until a long time after, that with my
current intercom wiring and no passenger PTT switch, when I key the mic and
let the pax talk on the comm, all anyone hears is dead air. Drat! They
have to use my headset to talk to the other members of the flight, and
that's not going to happen! Project for a rainy day, I guess.
I did the spring clip/clevis pin thing at
first, too, but decided it was totally unnecessary. I leave the stick out
unless I intend to offer the pax some stick time. Makes ingress and egress
for beefier thighs much more comfortable and assures I have full aileron
deflection available.
Bill
On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 11:38 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
> I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spring
> clip. There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so the
> thing is pretty easily removable. My problem is that it wobbles slightly.
> I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 layer of
> scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousandths
> undersize. Still it's easy to feel. Even when the pilot stick is moved I
> can feel the passenger stick rattling around.
> Does any one have any suggestions for securing this?
>
> Thanks
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BOB L WATSON <bob194bn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: where to put fire extinguisher |
I-- mounted mine-between seats that way piolot or passenger has acces
s to extinguisher=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: th
omas sargent =0ATo: rv-list =0ASe
nt: Sat, December 19, 2009 8:40:16 AM=0ASubject: RV-List: where to put fire
extinguisher=0A=0AI just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher y
et. -Is there a "standard" spot for this in an RV-6A? -Looking for an e
asy (=quick) installation idea. =0A=0AThanks,=0A=0A-- =0ATom Sargent=0A
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net> |
Why not tape off the stick above the joint and hit the area that slides in the
joint with a light coat of your favorite spray paint. If it is still not snug
enough, hit it with another coat.
Bret Smith
RV-9A N16BL
Blue Ridge, GA
www.FlightInnovations.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 3:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: passenger stick
On 12/19/2009 10:38 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
> I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spring
> clip. There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so the
> thing is pretty easily removable. My problem is that it wobbles slightly.
> I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 layer of
> scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousandths
> undersize. Still it's easy to feel. Even when the pilot stick is moved I
> can feel the passenger stick rattling around.
> Does any one have any suggestions for securing this?
>
> Thanks
Deform the end of the stick just enough to make it less "round". That
should make it a friction fit in the socket.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: where to put fire extinguisher |
On 12/19/2009 10:40 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
> I just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher yet. Is there a
> "standard" spot for this in an RV-6A? Looking for an easy (=quick)
> installation idea.
>
> Thanks,
>
In my RV-6, the extinguisher is mounted on the floor just in front of
the fuel valve.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BOB L WATSON <bob194bn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: passenger stick |
Tom when i-built my 9-a painted stick and sanded down to friction fit in
scoket-very- tight, but can be removed in flight and replaced in flight
no pins needed.=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: thomas
sargent =0ATo: rv-list =0ASent:
Sat, December 19, 2009 8:38:11 AM=0ASubject: RV-List: passenger stick=0A=0A
I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spring
clip. -There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so th
e thing is pretty easily removable. -My problem is that it wobbles slight
ly. -I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 la
yer of scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousa
ndths undersize. Still it's easy to feel. -Even when the pilot stick is m
oved I can feel the passenger stick rattling around. - =0ADoes any one ha
ve any suggestions for securing this?=0A=0AThanks=0A-- =0ATom Sargent, RV-6
=========================0A
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: where to put fire extinguisher |
How about on the spar cover where it's just behind your legs and handy
..... under the cowl won't help with a brake fire.
Linn
Bill Boyd wrote:
> How about under the cowl with a remote pull pin? Just kidding. Or
> maybe not.
>
> I had a small Halon bottle lying loose in my custom panel glove box,
> until the day my wife shut the door on it with some loose object
> (probably a CD player) in front of the discharge button. Hissing
> noise and "smoke" in flight made me think a 2 gauge cable had shorted
> to ground for a second. We laughed later. A lot later.
>
> Bill /Stormy / 6A
>
> On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 11:40 AM, thomas sargent > wrote:
>
> I just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher yet. Is
> there a "standard" spot for this in an RV-6A? Looking for an easy
> (=quick) installation idea.
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
> *
>
> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: passenger stick |
One or two more coats of paint on the stick..maybe?
Dale Ensing
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 11:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: passenger stick
I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spri
ng clip. There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so th
e thing is pretty easily removable. My problem is that it wobbles slightly
I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 layer
of scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousandth
s undersize. Still it's easy to feel. Even when the pilot stick is moved I
can feel the passenger stick rattling around.
Does any one have any suggestions for securing this?
Thanks
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: where to put fire extinguisher |
Tom
I have mine between the seat bottom cushions. It's a little too long to lay
flat on the floor between the flap drive enclosure and the tapered portion
of the seat bottom. But, a little sheet aluminum fabrication made a bracke
t to fit.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Boyd
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: where to put fire extinguisher
How about under the cowl with a remote pull pin? Just kidding. Or maybe
not.
I had a small Halon bottle lying loose in my custom panel glove box, unti
l the day my wife shut the door on it with some loose object (probably a CD
player) in front of the discharge button. Hissing noise and "smoke" in fl
ight made me think a 2 gauge cable had shorted to ground for a second. We
laughed later. A lot later.
Bill /Stormy / 6A
On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 11:40 AM, thomas sargent wrot
e:
I just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher yet. Is there a
"standard" spot for this in an RV-6A? Looking for an easy (=quick) inst
allation idea.
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: passenger stick |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Tom:
My pax side stick fits tightly and requires considerable effort to remove.
That notwithstanding, I secured it with an AN3 bolt & nyloc nut - but of
course it's not conveniently removed - takes about 10 minutes and can only
be done on the ground. Some builders use a pin with a ring on one end and
a spring clip on the other. Others simply set it in place (friction fit)
and hope it doesn't come out at some inopportune moment; it has happend.
I'd say, better safe now than sorry later. Secure it - with a pin or bolt -
doesn't cost much and only takes a few minutes. I've been giving my wife
lessons and if there is any way for that stick to come out accidentally -
she'd find it.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A, N307TB
Nearly 70 hours flight time since
first flight on 08/04/09 at 7B2 (Northampton, MA)
On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 4:15 PM, BOB L WATSON wrote:
> Tom when i built my 9-a painted stick and sanded down to friction fit in
> scoket very tight, but can be removed in flight and replaced in flight no
> pins needed.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* thomas sargent
> *To:* rv-list
> *Sent:* Sat, December 19, 2009 8:38:11 AM
> *Subject:* RV-List: passenger stick
>
> I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spring
> clip. There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so the
> thing is pretty easily removable. My problem is that it wobbles slightly.
> I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 layer of
> scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousandths
> undersize. Still it's easy to feel. Even when the pilot stick is moved I
> can feel the passenger stick rattling around.
> Does any one have any suggestions for securing this?
>
> Thanks
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
>
> *www.aeroelectric.com
> omebuiltHELP <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>*
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | where to put fire extinguisher |
In my RV-6=2C I mounted mine on the F-638 Seat Back Brace of the Passenger
Seat. I used the bracket that it came with and made some Velcro straps to h
elp hold it in plus make it easy to remove. While in flight=2C I can reach
over and pull it off. No bending or twisting.
I copied this idea off of Bill Flahrty RV-6 when I saw it in July 1998 at 2
G3 (now KVVS). It has held up well for almost 12-years and over 2=2C000 ho
urs of flying.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C338+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
Date: Sat=2C 19 Dec 2009 09:40:16 -0700
Subject: RV-List: where to put fire extinguisher
From: sarg314(at)gmail.com
I just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher yet. Is there a "st
andard" spot for this in an RV-6A? Looking for an easy (=quick) installa
tion idea.
Thanks=2C
--
Tom Sargent
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick(at)cox.net> |
i put some parts for sale on my blog.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278198#278198
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stick fit and Extinguisher Location |
| From: | Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> |
Wasn't there an accident with a friction fit stick? I think Van's
recommends a bolt and nut through the passenger stick, just in case a
right seat pilot tries to take over during a hard landing and the bounce
causes the stick to come away in his/her hand.
My vote for the best location for the extinguisher is just forward of
the fuel valve, on the tunnel cover. To me, the best location is
wherever you find it most reachable, especially at the moment you're
most likely to need it. I figured it was much more important to be able
to get to it in flight, so behind either of the seats was a no-no if I'm
also trying to control the aircraft. It also depends on the size!
Mine's one of those small halon jobbies! Regulations here in Canada
stipulate a metal bracket rather than plastic.
Ian Brown, RV-9A, C-GOHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re:rv-list: where to put fire extinguisher |
How about on the side wall next to the seat cushion. Of course the pax
would not be able to reach it if needed. Also, what type of extingisher is
best, the Halon models or a std A,B,C type model?
Marty Emrath
RV-6A finishing
Subject: RV-List: where to put fire extinguisher
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I just realized I haven't mounted my fire extinguisher yet. Is there a
"standard" spot for this in an RV-6A? Looking for an easy (=quick)
installation idea.
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stick fit and Extinguisher Location |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Oh, and never make the pilot's stick friction-fit :-)
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 11:09 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
> Sounds like a built-in safety feature to me: if a passenger ever tried to
> wrestle me for control of the plane during landing, I'd _want_ their stick
> to pop out in their hand - just before I pulled his ejection handle.
>
> Seriously, there is a failure mode here that I had not considered: stick
> pops up and out of socket for some very strange reason, remains captive by
> the stick boot, end falls down into the stick cut-out in the seat pan,
> restricting movement of the push tubes, pilot holds pressure in a panic
> preventing the pinched passenger stick from being extricated. Lots of
> things have to go wrong here to make this happen. But I have always been
> paranoid about small objects like cameras or water bottles being dropped
> into the control stick cut-out. Even with the boot and the stick in place,
> it's a potential control blockage/jam. Be very careful how you and your
> passenger handle loose objects in your laps in flight.
>
> Stormy
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 9:21 AM, Ian wrote:
>
>> Wasn't there an accident with a friction fit stick? I think Van's
>> recommends a bolt and nut through the passenger stick, just in case a right
>> seat pilot tries to take over during a hard landing and the bounce causes
>> the stick to come away in his/her hand.
>>
>> My vote for the best location for the extinguisher is just forward of the
>> fuel valve, on the tunnel cover. To me, the best location is wherever you
>> find it most reachable, especially at the moment you're most likely to need
>> it. I figured it was much more important to be able to get to it in flight,
>> so behind either of the seats was a no-no if I'm also trying to control the
>> aircraft. It also depends on the size! Mine's one of those small halon
>> jobbies! Regulations here in Canada stipulate a metal bracket rather than
>> plastic.
>>
>> Ian Brown, RV-9A, C-GOHM
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stick fit and Extinguisher Location |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Sounds like a built-in safety feature to me: if a passenger ever tried to
wrestle me for control of the plane during landing, I'd _want_ their stick
to pop out in their hand - just before I pulled his ejection handle.
Seriously, there is a failure mode here that I had not considered: stick
pops up and out of socket for some very strange reason, remains captive by
the stick boot, end falls down into the stick cut-out in the seat pan,
restricting movement of the push tubes, pilot holds pressure in a panic
preventing the pinched passenger stick from being extricated. Lots of
things have to go wrong here to make this happen. But I have always been
paranoid about small objects like cameras or water bottles being dropped
into the control stick cut-out. Even with the boot and the stick in place,
it's a potential control blockage/jam. Be very careful how you and your
passenger handle loose objects in your laps in flight.
Stormy
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 9:21 AM, Ian wrote:
> Wasn't there an accident with a friction fit stick? I think Van's
> recommends a bolt and nut through the passenger stick, just in case a right
> seat pilot tries to take over during a hard landing and the bounce causes
> the stick to come away in his/her hand.
>
> My vote for the best location for the extinguisher is just forward of the
> fuel valve, on the tunnel cover. To me, the best location is wherever you
> find it most reachable, especially at the moment you're most likely to need
> it. I figured it was much more important to be able to get to it in flight,
> so behind either of the seats was a no-no if I'm also trying to control the
> aircraft. It also depends on the size! Mine's one of those small halon
> jobbies! Regulations here in Canada stipulate a metal bracket rather than
> plastic.
>
> Ian Brown, RV-9A, C-GOHM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Gretz GA-1000 heated pitot for sale |
New in the box. $325 ($100 below list). I decided to go with a different
pitot install.
Carl Froehlich
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | peterhunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: where to put fire extinguisher |
I put mine under my knees mounted horizontally on the forward side of the
main spar. It is easy to reach between my knees, very secure in its holder,
yet out of the way.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, Reserve Grand champion and more
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2009 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2009 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and its time that I publish this year's List of Contributors. Its
the people on this list that directly make the Email Lists and Forums possible.
Their generous
contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running.
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I also want to thank Bob, Jon, Andy, and John for their generous support through
the supply of great gifts this year!! These guys have some great products and
I encourage you to visit their respective web sites:
Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - www.aeroelectric.com
Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - www.homebuilthelp.com
Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - www.buildersbooks.com
John Caldwell - HowToCrimp - www.howtocrimp.com
And finally, I'm proud to present The 2009 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2009.html
Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Danielson <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
Check out the attached PDF. This is the mod I did to my passenger stick.
Do not fly without having the stick attached someway.
I had forgotten to attach my passenger stick and while letting the passenge
r perform some stalls, the stick came out.
Good thing I was following along with my hand on my stick.
You should have seen the look on his face when the stick came out.
Priceless
John L. Danielson
________________________________
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 9:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: passenger stick
I put a 1/4" pin thru my passenger side stick (RV-6A) secured with a spring
clip. There's a small connector on the cable from the stick grip, so the
thing is pretty easily removable. My problem is that it wobbles slightly.
I tried putting a little scotch tape on it to fill the gap, but 1 layer of
scotch tape on the tube is too much. So it must be just a few thousandths
undersize. Still it's easy to feel. Even when the pilot stick is moved I c
an feel the passenger stick rattling around.
Does any one have any suggestions for securing this?
Thanks
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
rsbooks.com>
m>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: where to put fire extinguisher |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Pete:
Didn't that interfere with your left tank fuel line? Did you attach it to
the spar itself? So, the fire ext. mount would have to be removed to take
out the wing? (Not an criticism, just trying to understand how you mounted
it).
On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 1:57 PM, wrote:
> I put mine under my knees mounted horizontally on the forward side of the
> main spar. It is easy to reach between my knees, very secure in its holder,
> yet out of the way.
>
> Pete in Clearwater
>
> RV-6, Reserve Grand champion and more
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | peterhunt1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Placement of fire extinguisher |
Concerning my mounting my fire extinguisher horizontally onto the forward
side of my spar below my knees, Thomas wrote:
Pete:
Didn't that interfere with your left tank fuel line? Did you attach it to
the spar itself? So, the fire ext. mount would have to be removed to take
out the wing? (Not an criticism, just trying to understand how you mounted
it).
No interference with the left tank fuel line as my fuel line runs along the
base of the front of the spar about a quarter inch above the floor. The
forward height of the spar is at least 8 to 10 inches with plenty of room for
the extinguisher (mounted horizontally) well above the fuel line. I used
the spar bolts to hold the mounting bracket which came with the extinguisher.
Actually the spar height is so high I also designed and mounted (above the
extinguisher) a 16 inch wide and five inch high open top pouch in which I
carry my handheld radio, suntan lotion, etc. I made a similar pouch (only a
little higher) for the passenger side also mounted in front of the spar. All
easy to reach without unfastening the shoulder harness. The pouches are
made of leather and fastened to the front of the spar with Velcro. I sewed an
elastic strip into the top forward edge of each pouch to keep things (like
water bottles) a little more secure.
And yes, Thomas, I would have to remove the extinguisher mount if I ever
had to take the wing off.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, full day night IFR with Garmins 530 and 396
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: passenger stick |
| From: | "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Install the removable passenger stick using an AN3 bolt & nyloc nut. Tightening
the bolt will remove all backlash. Your insurance company, kids and wife will
thank you (in that order).
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278705#278705
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | red goo on firesleeve |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I was reminded today of the red goo that folks use to close up the exposed
bit of insulation in firesleeve at the ends of their hoses. What is this
stuff and where can I get it? Would red RTV work as well, or is it too
viscous?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: red goo on firesleeve |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
You can thin the RTV. See here:
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=39
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 11:39 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
> I was reminded today of the red goo that folks use to close up the exposed
> bit of insulation in firesleeve at the ends of their hoses. What is this
> stuff and where can I get it? Would red RTV work as well, or is it too
> viscous?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | red goo on firesleeve |
RTV is not very good at stopping the spread of fire. 3M makes a product
called fire seal or some name similar to that. It comes in the same
tube as caulking so you can apply it with your normal caulking gun.
Both Lowes and Home Depot stock it in their aviation departments.
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 8:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: red goo on firesleeve
I was reminded today of the red goo that folks use to close up the
exposed bit of insulation in firesleeve at the ends of their hoses.
What is this stuff and where can I get it? Would red RTV work as well,
or is it too viscous?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | red goo on firesleeve |
Ignore my last post. The RTV is fine for sealing firesleve ends. If
yopu need to seal an opening for wire pass thooughs the previously
mentioned fire seal is better. When heated it expands and forms an even
better seal. Over heated RTV will run. Not a problem on firesleve ends
but a major problem if it leaves an opening that fire can pss through.
Don VS
RV& flying
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 8:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: red goo on firesleeve
I was reminded today of the red goo that folks use to close up the
exposed bit of insulation in firesleeve at the ends of their hoses.
What is this stuff and where can I get it? Would red RTV work as well,
or is it too viscous?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Flap motor brushes |
"Well, now I've gone and done it!" Flap motor installed but I decided I
would see what folks were talking about with flap motor/gearbox grease
causing problems. While trying to put the motor back together I managed to
break one of the carbon brushes trying to get it back in its little hole!
$389 for whole flap motor assembly, $89.00 for replacement motor from Allied
Electronics
(http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3880012), no luck
on just the brush holder and brushes so far.
Anyone else had to replace the brush holder and brushes or complete flap
motor?
Can I get away with replacing just the motor?
Thanks,
Allen Fulmer
RV7 Finishing wiring
Alexander City, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: red goo on firesleeve |
| From: | "n395v" <Bearcat(at)bearcataviation.com> |
Aircraft Spruce sells firesleeve "end dip" in 1 qt cans part number 5027. It is
expensive but worth it.
It's primary purpose is to coat the inner fibrous lining from the end to a point
past the clamp to keep oils, gas etc from being soaked up by the fibrous material.
It needs to be thin and "wickable" to do this thus the term dip.
You do not want a length of firesleeve full of oil.
--------
Milt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=279081#279081
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
Allen,
The motor doesn't look like the exact same thing. It may be functionally, but
I would be wary of the size. Also, I think that the little gear on the end will
be your biggest problem.
If the motors are enough alike, you can take the brush assy from the new motor
and use it on the original....just a thought.
I've had to clean mine already too - so I know what a bugger it can be.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Allen Fulmer <afulmer(at)charter.net>
>Sent: Dec 29, 2009 8:49 AM
>To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics."
>Subject: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
>
>"Well, now I've gone and done it!" Flap motor installed but I decided I
>would see what folks were talking about with flap motor/gearbox grease
>causing problems. While trying to put the motor back together I managed to
>break one of the carbon brushes trying to get it back in its little hole!
>$389 for whole flap motor assembly, $89.00 for replacement motor from Allied
>Electronics
>(http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3880012), no luck
>on just the brush holder and brushes so far.
>
>
>
>Anyone else had to replace the brush holder and brushes or complete flap
>motor?
>
>
>
>Can I get away with replacing just the motor?
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>
>Allen Fulmer
>
>RV7 Finishing wiring
>
>Alexander City, AL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
I've heard that Home Depot has brushes, but never looked for them. If
the brushes aren't an exact match, they can be carefully sanded to size
..... carefully, as you well know!!! Good luck, and let us know how it
turns out.
Linn
Allen Fulmer wrote:
>
> "Well, now I've gone and done it!" Flap motor installed but I decided
> I would see what folks were talking about with flap motor/gearbox
> grease causing problems. While trying to put the motor back together
> I managed to break one of the carbon brushes trying to get it back in
> its little hole! $389 for whole flap motor assembly, $89.00 for
> replacement motor from Allied Electronics
> (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3880012), no
> luck on just the brush holder and brushes so far.
>
>
>
> Anyone else had to replace the brush holder and brushes or complete
> flap motor?
>
>
>
> Can I get away with replacing just the motor?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Allen Fulmer
>
> RV7 Finishing wiring
>
> Alexander City, AL
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
Allen,
Stan Gould posted about this in May of last year. I saved the info and will send
you a copy off list.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Tue, 12/29/09, Allen Fulmer wrote:
> From: Allen Fulmer <afulmer(at)charter.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
> To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics."
> Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 8:49 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Well, now Ive gone and done
> it!
> Flap motor installed but I decided I would see what folks
> were talking about
> with flap motor/gearbox grease causing problems.
> While trying to put the
> motor back together I managed to break one of the carbon
> brushes trying to get
> it back in its little hole! $389 for whole flap motor
> assembly, $89.00
> for replacement motor from Allied Electronics (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3880012),
> no luck on just the brush holder and brushes so
> far.
>
>
>
>
> Anyone else had to replace the brush holder
> and brushes or complete flap motor?
>
>
>
>
> Can I get away with replacing just the
> motor?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
> Allen Fulmer
>
> RV7 Finishing wiring
>
> Alexander City, AL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> provided
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
Hey Charlie, how about posting that info to the list as well. A lot of us w
ould like to have it just in case.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 648 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 10:19:45 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
Allen,
Stan Gould posted about this in May of last year. I saved the info and will
send you a copy off list.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Tue, 12/29/09, Allen Fulmer wrote:
> From: Allen Fulmer <afulmer(at)charter.net>
> Subject: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
> To: "Rv-List(at)Matronics."
> Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 8:49 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> =9CWell, now I=99ve gone and done
> it!=9D
> Flap motor installed but I decided I would see what folks
> were talking about
> with flap motor/gearbox grease causing problems.
> While trying to put the
> motor back together I managed to break one of the carbon
> brushes trying to get
> it back in its little hole! $389 for whole flap motor
> assembly, $89.00
> for replacement motor from Allied Electronics (http://www.alliedelec.com/
search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3880012),
> no luck on just the brush holder and brushes so
> far.
>
>
>
>
> Anyone else had to replace the brush holder
> and brushes or complete flap motor?
>
>
>
>
> Can I get away with replacing just the
> motor?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
> Allen Fulmer
>
> RV7 Finishing wiring
>
> Alexander City, AL
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> provided
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
No can do. It involves photos, which won't post. I actually saved it all as a pdf
file, which won't post either. I'll send you a copy off list.
Charlie
--- On Tue, 12/29/09, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net <HCRV6(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 6:58 PM
> #yiv83213696 p
> {margin:0;}Hey
> Charlie, how about posting that info to the list as
> well. A lot of us would like to have it just in case.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 648 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 10:19:45 AM GMT -08:00
> US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
>
>
>
> Allen,
> Stan Gould posted about this in May of last year. I
> saved the info and will send you a copy off list.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> --- On Tue, 12/29/09, Allen Fulmer
> wrote:
>
> > From: Allen Fulmer <afulmer(at)charter.net>
> > Subject: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
> > To: "Rv-List@Matronics."
>
> > Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 8:49 AM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Well, now Ive gone and done
> > it!
> > Flap motor installed but I decided I would see what
> folks
> > were talking about
> > with flap motor/gearbox grease causing
> problems.
> > While trying to put the
> > motor back together I managed to break one of the
> carbon
> > brushes trying to get
> > it back in its little hole! $389 for whole flap
> motor
> > assembly, $89.00
> > for replacement motor from Allied Electronics
> (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3880012),
> > no luck on just the brush holder and brushes so
> > far.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone else had to replace the brush holder
> > and brushes or complete flap motor?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Can I get away with replacing just the
> > motor?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Allen Fulmer
> >
> > RV7 Finishing wiring
> >
> > Alexander City, AL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > provided
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> provided
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
Harry,
Here is some of the info. There is actually an early and a late flap motor. Vans
changed vendors in 2002. The whole story on that can be found here.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/flap_motor.pdf
You can find lots of info on the flap motors here
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=5824&highlight=Flap+motor+brushes
Charlie
--- On Tue, 12/29/09, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net <HCRV6(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 6:58 PM
> #yiv601653149 p
> {margin:0;}Hey
> Charlie, how about posting that info to the list as
> well. A lot of us would like to have it just in case.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 648 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 10:19:45 AM GMT -08:00
> US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
>
>
>
> Allen,
> Stan Gould posted about this in May of last year. I
> saved the info and will send you a copy off list.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> --- On Tue, 12/29/09, Allen Fulmer
> wrote:
>
> > From: Allen Fulmer <afulmer(at)charter.net>
> > Subject: RV-List: Flap motor brushes
> > To: "Rv-List@Matronics."
>
> > Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 8:49 AM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Well, now Ive gone and done
> > it!
> > Flap motor installed but I decided I would see what
> folks
> > were talking about
> > with flap motor/gearbox grease causing
> problems.
> > While trying to put the
> > motor back together I managed to break one of the
> carbon
> > brushes trying to get
> > it back in its little hole! $389 for whole flap
> motor
> > assembly, $89.00
> > for replacement motor from Allied Electronics
> (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3880012),
> > no luck on just the brush holder and brushes so
> > far.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone else had to replace the brush holder
> > and brushes or complete flap motor?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Can I get away with replacing just the
> > motor?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Allen Fulmer
> >
> > RV7 Finishing wiring
> >
> > Alexander City, AL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > provided
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> provided
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
Here is the info I mentioned earlier.=0ACharlie=0A - - - =0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap motor brushes |
Thanks Charlie! ....
Allen, I've had really good luck replacing motor brushes by making a
tube of thin plastic ..... 6 mil stuff from the hardware store .... and
wrapping it around the commutator and then sliding the brush assembly
down over the plastic tube. Keeps the brushes from hitting the end of
the commutator and breaking.
Take it slow and rock the brush assembly a little while using a thin
pick to push the brushes into their pockets while sliding the assembly
over the commutator.
Linn
Charles Kuss wrote:
> Here is the info I mentioned earlier. Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | peterhunt1(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Flap Motor Replacement |
Let me see if I can help cut to the chase and post for the archives a less
expensive flap motor replacement solution. When my flap motor failed and I
wanted to replace only the motor, not the worm gear shaft too, I called
Vans. Vans only sells the motor and worm gear as a unit for $300+. However,
Vans was kind enough to put me on to Usher Enterprises (phone 503-992-0015).
They sold me a new motor without the worm gear for $110. Their motor is a
perfect match, bolts up exactly as does Van's motor and works beautifully.
Further, I had the old Vans motor unit (built before 2002) which did not have
the Vans name stamped into the worm gear shaft as do the new units. The
Usher Enterprises flap motor works on both the old and new Vans worm gear
units. When you call Usher Enterprises you may simply ask for "the motor which
operates the flaps on Van's aircraft," they will know what you are talking
about, or ask for Dean and tell him Pete sent you.
I also suggest that when you install the motor you use a tie wrap to hold
the electrical wires tight to the motor body so when the wires vibrate during
flight (as they will) the vibration is not transmitted to the end of the
wires where these wires enter the motor housing.
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6, numerous awards, full day/night IFR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Motor Replacement |
Pete,
Does the Usher motor have an oil/grease seal where the armature shaft comes out
of the motor? A seal here would prevent the grease in the gearbox from entering.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Wed, 12/30/09, peterhunt1(at)aol.com wrote:
> From: peterhunt1(at)aol.com <peterhunt1(at)aol.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Flap Motor Replacement
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:03 PM
>
>
>
>
> Let me see if I can help cut to the chase and post for
> the archives a less expensive flap motor replacement
> solution. When my flap motor failed and I wanted to
> replace only the motor, not the worm gear shaft too, I
> called Vans. Vans only sells the motor and worm gear
> as a unit for $300+. However, Vans was kind enough to
> put me on to Usher Enterprises (phone 503-992-0015).
> They sold me a new motor without the worm gear for
> $110.Their motoris a perfect match, bolts
> up exactly as does Van's motorand works
> beautifully. Further, I had the old Vans motor
> unit(built before 2002) which did not have the Vans
> name stamped into the worm gear shaft as do the new
> units. The Usher Enterprises flap motor works on both
> the old and new Vans worm gear units. When you call
> Usher Enterprises you may simply ask for "the motor
> which operates the flapson Van's aircraft,"
> they will know what you are talking about, or ask for Dean
> and tell him Pete sent you.
>
> I also suggest that when you install the motor
> youuse a tie wrap to hold the electrical wires tight
> to the motor body so when the wires vibrate during flight
> (as they will) the vibration is not transmitted tothe
> end of the wires where these wires enter the motor
> housing.
>
> Pete in Clearwater
> RV-6, numerous awards, full day/night IFR
>
>
>
> provided
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spark plugs and cooling baffles |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found that the
cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the aft, top
plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK, there just isn't
room between the socket and the cooling baffle to get the ratchet wrench or
even just a simple breaker bar on the socket. Now, I don't have a real
aircraft spark plug socket, just a 7/8" Home Depot socket, so maybe the real
thing is a bit shorter? I should mention that since I made a cooling plenum
for my engine, my baffles are 1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be
without the plenum. So, there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an access
hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will ordering a
spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hamer" <s.hamer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
I had the same problem with the Autolite plugs that came with my engine.
The Champion plugs are a bit shorter and will allow a socket and
ratchet to fit in there. That's what worked for me.
Steve Hamer
RV-6 flying
Apple Valley, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 2:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: spark plugs and cooling baffles
I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found
that the cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the
aft, top plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK,
there just isn't room between the socket and the cooling baffle to get
the ratchet wrench or even just a simple breaker bar on the socket.
Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark plug socket, just a 7/8" Home
Depot socket, so maybe the real thing is a bit shorter? I should
mention that since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my baffles are
1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the plenum. So,
there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an
access hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will
ordering a spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Gill" <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
Tom,
This is very common problem with RV's as well as certified ships. The
top of an aircraft plug socket is a 7/8 inch hex and well suited for a
wrench or socket. Simply use a crow-feet wrench on the socket hex and
you should be fine.
Bill
RV-7 N151WP
Lee's Summit, MO
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 4:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: spark plugs and cooling baffles
I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found
that the cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the
aft, top plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK,
there just isn't room between the socket and the cooling baffle to get
the ratchet wrench or even just a simple breaker bar on the socket.
Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark plug socket, just a 7/8" Home
Depot socket, so maybe the real thing is a bit shorter? I should
mention that since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my baffles are
1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the plenum. So,
there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an
access hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will
ordering a spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
Or do as I did and buy an offset box wrench, Craftsman makes a good one, and use
that on those aft two plugs. I rotate plugs every fifty hours and never have
a problem using this wrench. Oh yes, I did have to do a little grinding so that
that the wrench fits deeper into the cylinder fins because the hex on my Champion
plugs is lower than the hex on the Autolites.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 650 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 2, 2010 2:51:45 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV-List: spark plugs and cooling baffles
I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found that the cooling
baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the aft, top plugs (on
3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK, there just isn't room between
the socket and the cooling baffle to get the ratchet wrench or even just a simple
breaker bar on the socket. Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark plug
socket, just a 7/8" Home Depot socket, so maybe the real thing is a bit shorter?
I should mention that since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my baffles
are 1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the plenum. So, there's
no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an access hole in
the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will ordering a spark plug
socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
The newer (OK, newer than my circa 1999 baffles) come with punched
openings in the baffle sides which provide a pass through for a socket
extension. You could do something similar and use snap-in plugs to
provide access.
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 5:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: spark plugs and cooling baffles
I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found
that the cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the
aft, top plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK,
there just isn't room between the socket and the cooling baffle to get
the ratchet wrench or even just a simple breaker bar on the socket.
Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark plug socket, just a 7/8" Home
Depot socket, so maybe the real thing is a bit shorter? I should
mention that since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my baffles are
1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the plenum. So,
there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an
access hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will
ordering a spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Charles Ennis" <c.ennis(at)insightbb.com> |
Several months ago there was a discussion on the list concerning
certified engines and the application of AD's issued for them..The
following came from the FlyBaby forum and was written by Harry Fenton.
Its subject is "Autogas STC" but it addresses a few issues which could
be helpful to builders and those already flying. At any rate the year is
young and we might as wall start it off with a "hot" topic.
Charlie Ennis RV-6A flying in northern Ky.
Actually, there is a legal aspect to running auto fuel, even in an
homebuilt
aircraft. The auto fuel STC's have two components- engine and airframe.
Obviously, if the airframe is experimental and the STC for the airframe
does
not apply. However, if you intend to keep the C-85-12 operating as an
FAA
approved engine, then the FAA would require that an STC be applied to
the
engine to keep it legal.
There are rules for Experimental aircraft operation which are often
misunderstood (or ignored). A primary misconception is that anything
attached to an experimental airframe is FREE of any rules or compliance
to
FAA regulations- WRONG! While liberties can be taken, the aircraft
always
has to be operated in a safe manner consistent with FAA airworthiness
regulations. In particular, most amateur built aircraft use FAA approved
components of some sort- primarily engines. If the engine is to be
continued in operation as a certified component, then AD compliance and
STC
compliance is required, despite the installation of the component in an
experimental airframe.
The FAA requires compliance to TC specs because parts which migrate from
certificated aircraft to amateur built aircraft often migrate back into
the
certified world. Case in point, the Fly Baby is often worth more dead
than
alive. The engine, brakes, and instruments can often be parted out for
more
than the value of the aircraft in a complete, flying condition. So, the
FAA
wants TC'd components to be maintained accordingly to ensure some
reasonable
chance that parts are airworthy when re-installed on a certified
aircraft.
A certified engine can be converted to an uncertified status. The engine
data plate is removed, an entry made in the logbook stating that the
data
plate was removed and that the engine has been maintained from that
point
forward to amateur or experimental standards. This action would legally
allow you to burn anything you want in the engine, including auto fuel.
If
the engine is sold at some point, then the buyer can inspect the engine
and
re-attach the data plate. So, if you don't want to buy the the STC, then
this action keeps the paperwork legal.
There are a couple of advantages to keeping the engine conforming to
Type
Certificated regulations. The value of the engine is more if sold at a
later date and the flight restrictions during initial test flights are
less
when using a Type Certificated engine. If the data plate is removed,
even
if the engine is a Continental, then it is treated just like a converted
lawnmower engine in the eyes of the FAA, and flight test hours are
increased.
Granted, this is really splitting some fine hairs. The only time the FAA
will discover that auto fuel has been run in an engine with no STC is
during
the investigation after the crash. In reality, paperwork or no
paperwork,
the engine will generally run fine on auto fuel. Just be aware that
there
are some legal fish hooks, and you can get snagged under the right set
of
circumstances.
Harry
Back to top
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
Tom,
If you have the room, use a universal and an extension. If the universal won't
fit, use a "wobble" extension. Wobble extensions act as a sort of mini universal.
The extension can be tipped up to 15 degrees to clear obstructions.
Snap On [high end], Harbor Freight [low end] and everyone in between offers these
extensions. They really are a "must have" for anyone's tool box. See the links
below.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=67459&group_ID=241&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31203
Charlie Kuss
--- On Sat, 1/2/10, thomas sargent wrote:
> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: spark plugs and cooling baffles
> To: "rv-list"
> Date: Saturday, January 2, 2010, 5:51 PM
> I just tried to put plugs in my engine
> (IO-360-B2B) today and found that the cooling baffles make
> it impossible to get a deep socket on the aft, top plugs (on
> 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK, there just
> isn't room between the socket and the cooling baffle to
> get the ratchet wrench or even just a simple breaker bar on
> the socket. Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark
> plug socket, just a 7/8" Home Depot socket, so maybe
> the real thing is a bit shorter? I should mention that
> since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my baffles are
> 1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the
> plenum. So, there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
>
> Every one must run into this same problem.
> Will I have to hack an access hole in the baffles to get a
> socket extension in there? Or will ordering a spark plug
> socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
>
> Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be
> easy.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
I have also used a box wrench for the rear top plugs. After a couple
of years I switched to REM 37BY which are an authorized sub for the O
360. they are are a little shorter on the outside and will just barely
allow the plug wrench on my standard baffles circa 1996.
On Jan 2, 2010, at 7:07 PM, Kyle Boatright wrote:
> The newer (OK, newer than my circa 1999 baffles) come with punched
openings in the baffle sides which provide a pass through for a socket
extension. You could do something similar and use snap-in plugs to
provide access.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: thomas sargent
> To: rv-list
> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 5:51 PM
> Subject: RV-List: spark plugs and cooling baffles
>
> I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found
that the cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the
aft, top plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK,
there just isn't room between the socket and the cooling baffle to get
the ratchet wrench or even just a simple breaker bar on the socket.
Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark plug socket, just a 7/8" Home
Depot socket, so maybe the real thing is a bit shorter? I should
mention that since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my baffles are
1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the plenum. So,
there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
>
> Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an
access hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will
ordering a spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
>
> Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
When I pulled the plugs on buddies RV9A I used an aircraft spark plug
socket which was a 3/8" drive and a 6" wobble extension with a ratchet.
That combo worked fine!
I have auto plugs up my uppers so things are different on mine, easier.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
thomas sargent wrote:
> I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found
> that the cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on
> the aft, top plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on
> OK, there just isn't room between the socket and the cooling baffle to
> get the ratchet wrench or even just a simple breaker bar on the
> socket. Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark plug socket, just a
> 7/8" Home Depot socket, so maybe the real thing is a bit shorter? I
> should mention that since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my
> baffles are 1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the
> plenum. So, there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
>
> Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an
> access hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or
> will ordering a spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
>
> Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
I have Vans baffle kit interfacing to a SJ plenum. I put the socket on
the plug - then put the extension on the socket. My plenum sits low
enough for this to work. It wouldn't work with the extension already on
the socket.
Ralph
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 5:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: spark plugs and cooling baffles
I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found
that the cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the
aft, top plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK,
there just isn't room between the socket and the cooling baffle to get
the ratchet wrench or even just a simple breaker bar on the socket.
Now, I don't have a real aircraft spark plug socket, just a 7/8" Home
Depot socket, so maybe the real thing is a bit shorter? I should
mention that since I made a cooling plenum for my engine, my baffles are
1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be without the plenum. So,
there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an
access hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will
ordering a spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Tom:
I have an RV-7A but the RV-6 should be the same. You will have to cut an
access hole in the baffle in order to get into the socket with an extension.
The hole then gets covered over with a piece of .032 aluminum, secured with
a nutplate and 8-32 screw.
Keep at it - it took my wife and me 6 1/2 years, but it's well worth it;
these are incredible flying machines.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A - N307TB
76 hours since first flight on 8/4/09
at Northampton Airport (7B2), MA
On Sat, Jan 2, 2010 at 5:51 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
> I just tried to put plugs in my engine (IO-360-B2B) today and found that
> the cooling baffles make it impossible to get a deep socket on the aft, top
> plugs (on 3 and 4). Actually, I can get the socket on OK, there just isn't
> room between the socket and the cooling baffle to get the ratchet wrench or
> even just a simple breaker bar on the socket. Now, I don't have a real
> aircraft spark plug socket, just a 7/8" Home Depot socket, so maybe the real
> thing is a bit shorter? I should mention that since I made a cooling plenum
> for my engine, my baffles are 1 or 1.5 inches shorter than they would be
> without the plenum. So, there's no problem on cyl. 1 and 2.
>
> Every one must run into this same problem. Will I have to hack an access
> hole in the baffles to get a socket extension in there? Or will ordering a
> spark plug socket from Aircraft Spruce solve my problem?
>
> Gee, I thought putting in the plugs would be easy.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A final assembly.
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plugs and cooling baffles |
Tom
Another way to cover the holes would be to extend the baffle material
downwards to cover the hole. 1/2" larger should work fine - the
pressure will keep it covering the hole in flight
regards
Trevor RV-7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold in
the winter.
My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil temp
in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT ranges.
We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fixed
block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit controllable
unit.
Thanks in advance!
Ralph Capen
N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done with the first annual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
Ralph,
I mounted the oil cooler shutter on the baffle-mounted oil cooler, and another
as an alternate air bypass on the bottom of the air cleaner. I have photos of
the air filter one but not the oil cooler. I could get photos without too much
trouble if you need them.
Here is a link to the photos of the air filter shutter installation: http://tcwatson.zenfolio.com/p288537335/e31f70275
It hasn't flown yet but I think the shutters will work well in both locations.
Terry
RV-8A #80729 stalled in the shop
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 2:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold in
the winter.
My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil temp
in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT ranges.
We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fixed
block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit controllable
unit.
Thanks in advance!
Ralph Capen
N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done with the first annual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's oil cooler shutter |
Just flew back from California to Topeka, Ks.- Outside departure temp was
19 when I left Topeka and arrival temp was 12.- I flew at 10,500 and 9,5
00 over the rockies.- My oat temp was never above 28 F however the sensor
is in the cabin air inlet area and I'm told it reads high due to the engin
e heat.- But, I was able to very the oil temp between 160 and 180 the ent
ire way.- It works!- If you want some pix I'll send them (they're still
in the camera).- Installation was easy as was the cable routing.- I wo
uld do it again in a heart beat.- And, no. I'm not going to mention the t
emperature in Southern California!!!=0A=0ASteve Stucky=0ARV-7=0A=0A=0A_____
___________________________=0AFrom: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
=0ATo: rv-list ; lycoming engine list =0ASent: Mon, January 4, 2010 4:03:14 PM=0ASubject: R
E. Capen" =0A=0AAnyone have one of these on their b
affle behind the #4 cylinder?=0A=0AWould like to see pictures - hear your s
tory.=0A=0AMy Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp ru
ns too cold in the winter.=0A=0AMy IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me
a straight-line 185F degree oil temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won
't make 150F in the lower OAT ranges.=0A=0AWe get some weird temperature ra
nges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fixed block-off plate inside my pl
enum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit controllable unit.=0A=0AThanks
in advance!=0ARalph Capen=0AN822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done wit
=========================0A
======================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Demo Ride in RV-7A or 9A / Buy RV-7A or 9A |
Greetings & Happy New Year:
Anybody will to give me a "Demo Ride" in their RV-7A or 9A ???? Willing to pay
for your gas. I am located next to Santa Monica Airport (KSMO)
Looking to buy a "completed" RV-7A or 9A (assuming I fit in one - as 6' 5"" )
Do you know of one for sale ??
Thanks, Garey Witich ( CFI, MEI ) Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold in
the winter.
My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil temp
in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT ranges.
We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fixed
block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit controllable
unit.
Thanks in advance!
Ralph Capen
N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done with the first annual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
ralph=2C
Check the van's catelog. They have a oil cooler door that works from the c
ockpit. They call it the oil cooler vent and/or oil shutter. It works qui
te well.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
> Date: Mon=2C 4 Jan 2010 17:03:14 -0500
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B lycomingengines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
>
>
> Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
>
> Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
>
> My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too co
ld in the winter.
>
> My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oi
l temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT
ranges.
>
> We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a
fixed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockp
it controllable unit.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ralph Capen
> N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done with the first annual.
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's oil cooler shutter |
I have the van's oil cooler shutter and this weekend with it completely
closed with OAT of 20 degrees I was only getting between 140-150 degrees
oil temp on a one hour flight. I'll see if I can find my pictures. I
take it completely off in the hot months and usually see about 170-190.
XP-O360 regular baffles shutter in frt of oil cooler.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
steve wrote:
> Just flew back from California to Topeka, Ks. Outside departure temp
> was 19 when I left Topeka and arrival temp was 12. I flew at 10,500
> and 9,500 over the rockies. My oat temp was never above 28 F however
> the sensor is in the cabin air inlet area and I'm told it reads high
> due to the engine heat. But, I was able to very the oil temp between
> 160 and 180 the entire way. It works! If you want some pix I'll send
> them (they're still in the camera). Installation was easy as was the
> cable routing. I would do it again in a heart beat. And, no. I'm not
> going to mention the temperature in Southern California!!!
> Steve Stucky
> RV-7
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Ralph E. Capen
> *To:* rv-list ; lycoming engine list
>
> *Sent:* Mon, January 4, 2010 4:03:14 PM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
>
> >
>
> Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
>
> Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
>
> My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too
> cold in the winter.
>
> My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree
> oil temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the
> lower OAT ranges.
>
> We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so
> a fixed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like
> this cockpit controllable unit.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ralph Capen
> N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done withntent also available
> via the -Matt Drall===========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's oil cooler shutter |
I found my pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/bobbyhesterKY/OilCoolerShutter#
I have the van's oil cooler shutter and this weekend with it completely
closed with OAT of 20 degrees I was only getting between 140-150 degrees
oil temp on a one hour flight. I'll see if I can find my pictures. I
take it completely off in the hot months and usually see about 170-190.
XP-O360 regular baffles shutter in frt of oil cooler.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
>
> Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
>
> My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold in
the winter.
>
> My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil temp
in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT ranges.
>
> We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fixed
block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit controllable
unit.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ralph Capen
> N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done with the first annual.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | luis(at)cristabelle.net |
I'm piecing together a set of tools. What do you all think of this setup?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
Louis,
Do yourself a huge favor and purchase a good quality drill with a teasing t
rigger from Avery or Cleveland Tool if you are serious about building an RV
.=C2- You will regret the money you spend on cut rate tools.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 650 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: luis(at)cristabelle.net
Sent: Monday, January 4, 2010 6:19:42 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV-List: Gathering Tools
I'm piecing together a set of tools. =C2- What do you all think of this s
etup?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=38009661905
2#ht_1475wt_941
===========
===========
MS -
===========
e -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2--Matt Dralle, List Admin.
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
| From: | Matt Redmond <mdredmond(at)gmail.com> |
Louis,
That set is already up to $139. For not a lot more you could pick up a nice
Sioux drill from Avery, Cleaveland or Brown (I think I paid $185 for mine
[Brown Tool]).
Then go to Pan American Tool and get the bits, stops and countersink cage if
you're looking for the best prices (same quality - everyone else resells Pan
American's stuff).
If you're looking for the best service, neither Avery nor Cleaveland can be
beat. I usually spend a little more with these two even if I can get it
cheaper elsewhere. There's a lot to be said for keeping these nice folks in
business.
On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 8:19 PM, wrote:
>
> I'm piecing together a set of tools. What do you all think of this setup?
>
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
I'd pass. Get a numbered drill bit set from cleveland. You will need all the
bits you can get, and you will need many numbered bits besides #30 and #40. The
good set is not cheap, about $200, but if you always put them back they will
last you forever. Then get packages of #30's and #40's. You will need long
bits of those as well. Plus the drill and all of those bits, countersink cage,
etc is too cheap (yes, there is such a thing) You do more drilling than anything
else on the airplane. Don't skimp on the drill or bits.
Also, FWIW, I did not use the drill stops after I got used to drilling. Too time
consuming and a pain to change when you are burning through bits. If you are
in a tight spot and are worried about hitting something, then change to a bit
with the drill stop.
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: "luis(at)cristabelle.net" <luis(at)cristabelle.net>
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 7:19:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gathering Tools
I'm piecing together a set of tools. What do you all think of this setup?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luis Rodriguez <luis(at)cristabelle.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
I'm gonna bite the bullet and just get the Planetools.com kit. Too
much of a PIA to get all the stuff right by piecing together a set.
Thanks all for setting my head straight.
Luis.
On Jan 5, 2010, at 3:24 PM, Paul Besing wrote:
> I'd pass. Get a numbered drill bit set from cleveland. You will
> need all the bits you can get, and you will need many numbered bits
> besides #30 and #40. The good set is not cheap, about $200, but if
> you always put them back they will last you forever. Then get
> packages of #30's and #40's. You will need long bits of those as
> well. Plus the drill and all of those bits, countersink cage, etc
> is too cheap (yes, there is such a thing) You do more drilling than
> anything else on the airplane. Don't skimp on the drill or bits.
>
> Also, FWIW, I did not use the drill stops after I got used to
> drilling. Too time consuming and a pain to change when you are
> burning through bits. If you are in a tight spot and are worried
> about hitting something, then change to a bit with the drill stop.
>
> Paul Besing
>
> From: "luis(at)cristabelle.net" <luis(at)cristabelle.net>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 7:19:42 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Gathering Tools
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Bell" <glennbell(at)cablelynx.com> |
I went through the plans and ordered several of all the bit sizes called
for.there really aren't all that many sizes that you really need.you will
need many 30s and 40s.also the 12 inch 30 and 40 are very handy.12 is common
as is 19. There are several others that I cant recall right offhand. I
would also invest in a good 90 degree adaptor that uses the threaded
bits..The avery bits are very good.
Remember, each and every 3/32 rivet hole has to be sized with a 40 and
every 1/8 with a 30.that is a lot of holes..Also a drill bit size guide is
invaluable.it is impossible to tell the smaller bits apart without one.
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gathering Tools
I'd pass. Get a numbered drill bit set from cleveland. You will need all
the bits you can get, and you will need many numbered bits besides #30 and
#40. The good set is not cheap, about $200, but if you always put them back
they will last you forever. Then get packages of #30's and #40's. You will
need long bits of those as well. Plus the drill and all of those bits,
countersink cage, etc is too cheap (yes, there is such a thing) You do more
drilling than anything else on the airplane. Don't skimp on the drill or
bits.
Also, FWIW, I did not use the drill stops after I got used to drilling. Too
time consuming and a pain to change when you are burning through bits. If
you are in a tight spot and are worried about hitting something, then change
to a bit with the drill stop.
Paul Besing
_____
From: "luis(at)cristabelle.net" <luis(at)cristabelle.net>
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 7:19:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gathering Tools
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Gathering Tools - countersink cage |
It pays to get more than one countersink cage. Set up up for 1/8"=2C anoth
er for 3/32" so you don't spend lots of time changing out the heads and the
n having to re-calibrate the depth.
Usually at big fly-ins=2C especially SNF=2C or AirVenture=2C you can find u
sed countersink cages for $10 ea.....
If you're not heading that way=2C I'm sure you know someone who is....
Marty
RV-7=3B Baffling and Cowling (still)
Date: Tue=2C 5 Jan 2010 13:15:50 -0600
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gathering Tools
From: mdredmond(at)gmail.com
Louis=2C
That set is already up to $139. For not a lot more you could pick up a nic
e Sioux drill from Avery=2C Cleaveland or Brown (I think I paid $185 for mi
ne [Brown Tool]).
Then go to Pan American Tool and get the bits=2C stops and countersink cage
if you're looking for the best prices (same quality - everyone else resell
s Pan American's stuff).
If you're looking for the best service=2C neither Avery nor Cleaveland can
be beat. I usually spend a little more with these two even if I can get it
cheaper elsewhere. There's a lot to be said for keeping these nice folks
in business.
On Mon=2C Jan 4=2C 2010 at 8:19 PM=2C wrote:
I'm piecing together a set of tools. What do you all think of this setup?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=38009661905
2#ht_1475wt_941
The RV-List Email Forum - hare=2C and much much more:
or?RV-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
ef="http://forums.matronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matroni
cs.com
Matt Dralle=2C List Admin.
====
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
Amen, bro! I support Avery exclusively. I have no doubt Cleaveland is
just as good. I just started with Avery, had great customer service and
stuck with them! :)
Matt Redmond wrote:
>
>
> If you're looking for the best service, neither Avery nor Cleaveland
> can be beat. I usually spend a little more with these two even if I
> can get it cheaper elsewhere. There's a lot to be said for keeping
> these nice folks in business.
>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
| From: | Matt Redmond <mdredmond(at)gmail.com> |
My first experience with Avery was after I bought a pneumatic squeezer on
eBay. It worked well enough but I wanted an adjustable set holder on it.
Ordered one from Avery and it didn't fit my (early model) squeezer. So I
drove down to T67 (20 mi from me) and Bob spent about a half an hour getting
me fixed up. Then he and I did some dimpling and riveting because I'd never
done it before. Great guy - great family.
I've also had excellent and friendly service from Cleaveland. As an
example, when I was afraid some Cleaveland dimple dies made substandard
dimples (turned out that was NOT the case), DJ mentioned replacing my
elevator skin if it turned out to be the dies.
I can't speak for PlaneTools but they might be fine too. I know Avery and
Cleaveland are.
On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 4:47 PM, Scott wrote:
>
> Amen, bro! I support Avery exclusively. I have no doubt Cleaveland is
> just as good. I just started with Avery, had great customer service and
> stuck with them! :)
>
>
> Matt Redmond wrote:
>
>>
>> If you're looking for the best service, neither Avery nor Cleaveland can
>> be beat. I usually spend a little more with these two even if I can get it
>> cheaper elsewhere. There's a lot to be said for keeping these nice folks in
>> business.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
| From: | Matt Redmond <mdredmond(at)gmail.com> |
Make that stabilizer skin, not elevator skin. Significantly more expensive
part.
On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 5:49 PM, Matt Redmond wrote:
> My first experience with Avery was after I bought a pneumatic squeezer on
> eBay. It worked well enough but I wanted an adjustable set holder on it.
> Ordered one from Avery and it didn't fit my (early model) squeezer. So I
> drove down to T67 (20 mi from me) and Bob spent about a half an hour getting
> me fixed up. Then he and I did some dimpling and riveting because I'd never
> done it before. Great guy - great family.
>
> I've also had excellent and friendly service from Cleaveland. As an
> example, when I was afraid some Cleaveland dimple dies made substandard
> dimples (turned out that was NOT the case), DJ mentioned replacing my
> elevator skin if it turned out to be the dies.
>
> I can't speak for PlaneTools but they might be fine too. I know Avery and
> Cleaveland are.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 4:47 PM, Scott wrote:
>
>>
>> Amen, bro! I support Avery exclusively. I have no doubt Cleaveland is
>> just as good. I just started with Avery, had great customer service and
>> stuck with them! :)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt Redmond wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> If you're looking for the best service, neither Avery nor Cleaveland can
>>> be beat. I usually spend a little more with these two even if I can get it
>>> cheaper elsewhere. There's a lot to be said for keeping these nice folks in
>>> business.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Scott
>> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
>> Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4
>> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
Steve=2C I take it your not using the shutter style oil cooler set-up. If p
ossible when the photo's are available try to host them and post a link for
us to learn from. TIA=2C Bruce
RV-8
Date: Mon=2C 4 Jan 2010 17:13:35 -0800
From: steve282s(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Just flew back from California to Topeka=2C Ks. Outside departure temp was
19 when I left Topeka and arrival temp was 12. I flew at 10=2C500 and 9
=2C500 over the rockies. My oat temp was never above 28 F however the sens
or is in the cabin air inlet area and I'm told it reads high due to the eng
ine heat. But=2C I was able to very the oil temp between 160 and 180 the e
ntire way. It works! If you want some pix I'll send them (they're still i
n the camera). Installation was easy as was the cable routing. I would do
it again in a heart beat. And=2C no. I'm not going to mention the tempera
ture in Southern California!!!
Steve Stucky
RV-7
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
s-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Mon=2C January 4=2C 2010 4:03:14 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold
in the winter.
My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil
temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT ra
nges.
We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fi
xed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit
controllable unit.
Thanks in advance!
Ralph Capen
N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done withntent also available via th
e -Matt Drall===========
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph & Maria Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com> |
> What do you all think of this setup?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
Yuck.
You will be sure to be frustrated with the cheap junk. The Harbor Freight-like
quality is OK for a few seldom used items, but for your main tools, get quality
stuff. Think about it, your airplane build final cost is anywhere from $30K
to $80K including kit, engine, accessories, and instruments + avionics...and
you're trying to save a few hundred with cheap tools?
I have an Excel worksheet, now a couple years old, of recommended tools and suppliers
from one of the well-known building trainers. I won't post it publically
because the list started with them (I put it into Excel), but will email to
those interested. The prices and links are now somewhat old but the items still
relevant.
Ralph Finch
Davis, California
RV-9A QB-SA
__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database
4746 (20100105) __________
The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russell parr <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com> |
y
How are you?
Tell you a good news=2C my friend found a good web site www.eitems
ky.com=2C they are mainly electronic products=2C low prices=2C you may need
. Such as cameras=2C mobile phones=2C PS3 game consoles=2C LCD TVs=2C noteb
ook computers=2C iPhone=2C motorcycle car is the most popular thing=2C thei
r project is entirely consistent with the original quality=2C but if you wa
nt to
To this end=2C the wholesale busines=2C please do not hesitate to contact t
hem.
Their website: www.eitemsky.com
E-mail: eitemsky(at)eitemsky.com
Schumacher: eitemsky(at)hotmail.com
I hope you will enjoy more preferential
C
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luis <luis(at)cristabelle.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
I'm leaning toward the Cleavland Tool Kit. I'll add:
extra scotch brite pads/wheels
extra 150 clecos
quick change yoke pins
thin nose yoke
On Jan 5, 2010, at 6:50 PM, Matt Redmond wrote:
> Make that stabilizer skin, not elevator skin. Significantly more
> expensive part.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 5:49 PM, Matt Redmond
> wrote:
> My first experience with Avery was after I bought a pneumatic
> squeezer on eBay. It worked well enough but I wanted an adjustable
> set holder on it. Ordered one from Avery and it didn't fit my
> (early model) squeezer. So I drove down to T67 (20 mi from me) and
> Bob spent about a half an hour getting me fixed up. Then he and I
> did some dimpling and riveting because I'd never done it before.
> Great guy - great family.
>
> I've also had excellent and friendly service from Cleaveland. As an
> example, when I was afraid some Cleaveland dimple dies made
> substandard dimples (turned out that was NOT the case), DJ mentioned
> replacing my elevator skin if it turned out to be the dies.
>
> I can't speak for PlaneTools but they might be fine too. I know
> Avery and Cleaveland are.
>
>
> On Tue, Jan 5, 2010 at 4:47 PM, Scott wrote:
>
> Amen, bro! I support Avery exclusively. I have no doubt Cleaveland
> is just as good. I just started with Avery, had great customer
> service and stuck with them! :)
>
>
> Matt Redmond wrote:
>
> If you're looking for the best service, neither Avery nor
> Cleaveland can be beat. I usually spend a little more with these
> two even if I can get it cheaper elsewhere. There's a lot to be
> said for keeping these nice folks in business.
>
>
> --
> Scott
> http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
> Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4
> Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
> cription,
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ronics.com/" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ====
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com> |
Without trying to start more 'primer type' wars=2C all the posts I've read
stated the same thing about buying quaility tools.
The one 'blastphomeous' part I'll sugest is getting a good=2C fast=2C elect
ic drill (spinning 1700 or better).
Yes=2C they are bigger=2C bulkier=2C and heavy than an air drill=3B but you
don't need to wait for the compressor to re-charge. I got that Blazing Fl
ash of the Obvious (BFO) tip from this forum=2C where the author quoted=2C
'and I never looked back.' and I agree.
Four other tips:
- Roto-zip for a die grinder (same reason)
- Good quality dimple dies=3B else you'll buy many lower cost ones
- TALCO squeezer and accesories=3B It's worth its 'lack of weight' for the
gold you spend on it.
- 90 degree threaded drill set as already mentioned--very pricey for what
they are=3B but very=2C very helpful.
FWIW
Marty
RV-7 (Baffling and Cowling)
> From: ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Gathering Tools
> Date: Tue=2C 5 Jan 2010 16:37:25 -0800
>
il.com>
>
> > What do you all think of this setup?
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3800966
19052#ht_1475wt_941
>
> Yuck.
>
> You will be sure to be frustrated with the cheap junk. The Harbor Freight
-like quality is OK for a few seldom used items=2C but for your main tools
=2C get quality stuff. Think about it=2C your airplane build final cost is
anywhere from $30K to $80K including kit=2C engine=2C accessories=2C and in
struments + avionics...and you're trying to save a few hundred with cheap t
ools?
>
> I have an Excel worksheet=2C now a couple years old=2C of recommended too
ls and suppliers from one of the well-known building trainers. I won't post
it publically because the list started with them (I put it into Excel)=2C
but will email to those interested. The prices and links are now somewhat o
ld but the items still relevant.
>
> Ralph Finch
> Davis=2C California
> RV-9A QB-SA
>
>
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security=2C version of virus signa
ture database 4746 (20100105) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
| From: | glennbell(at)cablelynx.com |
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aXZlIEhvdG1haWwgRnJlZS4NCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's oil cooler shutter |
I'm using the shutter style add-on from Vans that fits between the baffle b
ehind cyl #4 and the oil cooler.- The shutter deflection is then operated
via an automotive choke style cable mounted near the instrument panel.-
I'll try to get the pix posted today.- But, I'm old, retired, tired, and
this is hard.=0A=0Asteve=0A282S VariEze=0A283S RV7=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________
______________________=0AFrom: BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>=0ATo: M
atronics =0ASent: Tue, January 5, 2010 6:21:44 PM=0A
Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter=0A=0ASteve, I take it your n
ot using the shutter style oil cooler set-up. If possible when the photo's
are available try to host them and post a link for us to learn from. TIA, B
ruce=0ARV-8=0A-=0A________________________________=0ADate: Mon, 4 Jan 201
oil cooler shutter=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com; lycomingengines-list@matron
ics.com=0A=0A=0AJust flew back from California to Topeka, Ks.- Outside de
parture temp was 19 when I left Topeka and arrival temp was 12.- I flew a
t 10,500 and 9,500 over the rockies.- My oat temp was never above 28 F ho
wever the sensor is in the cabin air inlet area and I'm told it reads high
due to the engine heat.- But, I was able to very the oil temp between 160
and 180 the entire way.- It works!- If you want some pix I'll send the
m (they're still in the camera).- Installation was easy as was the cable
routing.- I would do it again in a heart beat.- And, no. I'm not going
to mention the temperature in Southern California!!!=0A=0ASteve Stucky=0ARV
-7=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Ralph E. Capen <recapen
(at)earthlink.net>=0ATo: rv-list ; lycoming engine list
=0ASent: Mon, January 4, 2010 4:03:14
PM=0ASubject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter=0A=0A--> RV-List message po
sted by: "Ralph E. Capen" =0A=0AAnyone have one of t
hese on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?=0A=0AWould like to see picture
s - hear your story.=0A=0AMy Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good -
my oil temp runs too cold in the winter.=0A=0AMy IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R c
ooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil temp in the summer (OAT over
65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT ranges.=0A=0AWe get some weird
temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fixed block-off pla
te inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit controllable uni
t.=0A=0AThanks in advance!=0ARalph Capen=0AN822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs -
almost done withntent also available via the - - - - - - -
- - -Matt Drall=============0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AHotmail: Powerful Free email wi
====0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
| From: | Steven Reynard <sreynard13(at)gmail.com> |
Besides, you need something to mix your two part epoxy primer. ;)
A good plug-in model is also good. The wait for the battery to
recharge can really slow ya down. I need to get a new battery. . . .
The only time you have too many quality tools is when you don't have
enough room left to use them. :0
Steve Reynard
RV-7A Wings
On Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 4:12 AM, Marty Helller wrote:
> Without trying to start more 'primer type' wars, all the posts I've read
> stated the same thing about buying quaility tools.
>
> The one 'blastphomeous' part I'll sugest is getting a good, fast, electic
> drill (spinning 1700 or better).
> Yes, they are bigger, bulkier, and heavy than an air drill; but you don't
> need to wait for the compressor to re-charge. I got that Blazing Flash of
> the Obvious (BFO) tip from thisforum, where the author quoted, 'and I never
> looked back.' and I agree.
>
. . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
Ditto on the lithium ion drill (Makita expensive but great). One more
tool to the mix -- a small lithium ion hand screw driver (was
available at Costco for about $17) to help in putting in all of the
screws in the cover plates and floor boards. I agree that either
Cleveland or Avery RV tool kits are a great value.
dave
RV 7A (135 hours)
On Jan 6, 2010, at 4:58 AM, glennbell(at)cablelynx.com wrote:
> I have to agree. I used a skil 18 volt lithium ion. With spare
> battery it worked great. Easy to control with plenty of power. No
> noise nor chuck key to keep up with either.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
> From: Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com>
> Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 12:12:34 +0000
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Gathering Tools
>
> Without trying to start more 'primer type' wars=2C all the posts
> I've read = stated the same thing about buying quaility tools. =3B
> =3B
> The one 'blastphomeous' part I'll sugest is getting a good=2C
> fast=2C elect= ic drill (spinning 1700 or better).
> Yes=2C they are bigger=2C bulkier=2C and heavy than an air drill=3B
> but you= don't need to wait for the compressor to re-charge. =3B I
> got that Bla= zing Flash of the Obvious (BFO) tip from this
> =3Bforum=2C where the aut= hor quoted=2C 'and I never looked back.'
> and I agree. =3B
>
> Four =3Bother tips:
> - Roto-zip for a die grinder (same reason)
> - Good quality dimple dies=3B else you'll buy many lower cost ones
> - =3BTALCO squeezer and accesories=3B It's worth its 'lack of
> weight' f= or the gold you spend on it.
> - =3B 90 degree threaded drill set as a= lready mentioned--very
> pricey for what they are=3B but very=2C =3B very= helpful.
> =3B
> FWIW
> =3B
> Marty
> RV-7 (Baffling and Cowling)
> =3B
> =3B
> =3B
>
> =3B
>
> >=3B From: ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com
> >=3B To: rv-list@matronics.= com
> >=3B Subject: RE: RV-List: Gathering Tools
> >=3B Date: Tue=2C = 5 Jan 2010 16:37:25 -0800
> >=3B
> >=3B -->=3B RV-List message pos= ted by: "Ralph &=3B Maria Finch" <=3Bralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com
> >=3B>=3B
> >=3B >=3B What do you all think of this setup?
> >=3B &= gt=3B http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&=3Bitem=
> =380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
> >=3B
> >=3B Yuck.
> >=3B
> >= =3B You will be sure to be frustrated with the cheap junk. The
> Harbor Freig= ht-like quality is OK for a few seldom used items=2C
> but for your main tool= s=2C get quality stuff. Think about it=2C
> your airplane build final cost is= anywhere from $30K to $80K
> including kit=2C engine=2C accessories=2C and i= nstruments +
> avionics...and you're trying to save a few hundred with cheap = tools?
> >=3B
> >=3B I have an Excel worksheet=2C now a couple years= old=2C of
> recommended tools and suppliers from one of the well-known build=
> ing trainers. I won't post it publically because the list started
> with them= (I put it into Excel)=2C but will email to those
> interested. The prices an= d links are now somewhat old but the
> items still relevant.
> >=3B
> &g= t=3B Ralph Finch
> >=3B Davis=2C California
> >=3B RV-9A QB-SA
> >= =3B
> >=3B
> >=3B
> >=3B
> >=3B __________ Information from= ESET Smart Security=2C version of
> virus signature database 4746 (20100105)= __________
> >=3B
> >=3B The message was checked by ESET Smart Secu= ==
> >=3B
> >=3B
> >=3B
>
> Your = E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
> Sign up now.
>
>
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
> _-
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
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> =
> 3D
> =
> 3D
> ======================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Danielson <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com> |
There are times a corded electric drill comes in handy. Just be careful dra
gging that cord across sharp aluminum edges.
John L. Danielson
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of David Cudney
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gathering Tools
Ditto on the lithium ion drill (Makita expensive but great). One more tool
to the mix -- a small lithium ion hand screw driver (was available at Cost
co for about $17) to help in putting in all of the screws in the cover pla
tes and floor boards. I agree that either Cleveland or Avery RV tool kits
are a great value.
dave
RV 7A (135 hours)
On Jan 6, 2010, at 4:58 AM, glennbell(at)cablelynx.com wrote:
I have to agree. I used a skil 18 volt lithium ion. With spare battery it w
orked great. Easy to control with plenty of power. No noise nor chuck key t
o keep up with either.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________
From: Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com<mailto:marty_away(at)hotmail.com>>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 12:12:34 +0000
Subject: RE: RV-List: Gathering Tools
Without trying to start more 'primer type' wars=2C all the posts I've rea
d = stated the same thing about buying quaility tools. =3B
=3B
The one 'blastphomeous' part I'll sugest is getting a good=2C fast=2C e
lect= ic drill (spinning 1700 or better).
Yes=2C they are bigger=2C bulkier=2C and heavy than an air drill=3B
but you= don't need to wait for the compressor to re-charge. =3B I got
that Bla= zing Flash of the Obvious (BFO) tip from this =3Bforum=2C
where the aut= hor quoted=2C 'and I never looked back.' and I agree.
=3B
Four =3Bother tips:
- Roto-zip for a die grinder (same reason)
- Good quality dimple dies=3B else you'll buy many lower cost ones
- =3BTALCO squeezer and accesories=3B It's worth its 'lack of weight' f
= or the gold you spend on it.
- =3B 90 degree threaded drill set as a= lready mentioned--very pricey
for what they are=3B but very=2C =3B very= helpful.
=3Bralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>=3B>=3B
>=3B >=3B What do you all think of this setup?
>=3B &= gt=3B http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIte
m&=3Bitem= =3D380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
>=3B
>=3B Yuck.
>=3B
>= =3B You will be sure to be frustrated with the cheap junk. The Harbo
r Freig= ht-like quality is OK for a few seldom used items=2C but for y
our main tool= s=2C get quality stuff. Think about it=2C your airplan
e build final cost is= anywhere from $30K to $80K including kit=2C engi
ne=2C accessories=2C and i= nstruments + avionics...and you're trying
to save a few hundred with cheap = tools?
>=3B
>=3B I have an Excel worksheet=2C now a couple years= old=2C of rec
ommended tools and suppliers from one of the well-known build= ing traine
rs. I won't post it publically because the list started with them= (I put
it into Excel)=2C but will email to those interested. The prices an= d
links are now somewhat old but the items still relevant.
>=3B
&g= t=3B Ralph Finch
>=3B Davis=2C California
>=3B RV-9A QB-SA
>= =3B
>=3B
>=3B
>=3B
>=3B __________ Information from= ESET Smart Security=2C version of v
irus signature database 4746 (20100105)= __________
>=3B
>=3B The message was checked by ESET Smart Secu= =3D=3D=3D
>=3B
>=3B
>=3B
________________________________
Your = E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign up
now. =<3D'http:/=>
<3D'http:/=>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List<3D>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <terry(at)tcwatson.com> |
Way, Way back when I was starting to build my 8A I remember reading that one
of the reasons for using an air-powered drill when working with aluminum
sheet was to avoid electrocuting yourself when the edge of a sheet cut
through the cord of your electric drill. That was before battery powered
drills. The other reason was to get the high speed that was appropriate for
drilling the aluminum sheet. I suppose a GFI (ground fault interrupter?)
circuit or the modern-day equivalent might solve the first problem.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven Reynard
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gathering Tools
Besides, you need something to mix your two part epoxy primer. ;)
A good plug-in model is also good. The wait for the battery to
recharge can really slow ya down. I need to get a new battery. . . .
The only time you have too many quality tools is when you don't have
enough room left to use them. :0
Steve Reynard
RV-7A Wings
On Wed, Jan 6, 2010 at 4:12 AM, Marty Helller
wrote:
> Without trying to start more 'primer type' wars, all the posts I've read
> stated the same thing about buying quaility tools.
>
> The one 'blastphomeous' part I'll sugest is getting a good, fast, electic
> drill (spinning 1700 or better).
> Yes, they are bigger, bulkier, and heavy than an air drill; but you don't
> need to wait for the compressor to re-charge. I got that Blazing Flash of
> the Obvious (BFO) tip from thisforum, where the author quoted, 'and I
never
> looked back.' and I agree.
>
. . .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Swayze <swayze(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
I looked at this package on eBay. You will want a drill that has an
old-fashioned adjustable chuck. Those drill bits with the hex ends
that fit in the quick change drill will be expensive to replace. I
agree with the previous posts about getting quality tools. That said,
however, I saved a lot of money on a number of tools that you have to
have but don't use that often by buying used or looking on eBay. For
example, I picked up a right-angle drill for about $50 that I know
would have cost me several hundred if I bought it new. It's an
awesome tool and it works great. You have to have one of these
eventually, but you don't need a brand new one. It's not used that
often. There are other examples as well.
I have had extremely good service and can't say enough about my
experiences with Avery Tools, Cleveland, PlaneTools, and some others as well.
At 06:19 PM 1/4/2010, you wrote:
>
>I'm piecing together a set of tools. What do you all think of this setup?
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
Here is a good drill that I bought and it's on sale right now!
*http://tinyurl.com/yzl2jh4*
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
David Cudney wrote:
> Ditto on the lithium ion drill (Makita expensive but great). One more
> tool to the mix -- a small lithium ion hand screw driver (was
> available at Costco for about $17) to help in putting in all of the
> screws in the cover plates and floor boards. I agree that either
> Cleveland or Avery RV tool kits are a great value.
>
> dave
> RV 7A (135 hours)
>
> On Jan 6, 2010, at 4:58 AM, glennbell(at)cablelynx.com
> wrote:
>
>> I have to agree. I used a skil 18 volt lithium ion. With spare
>> battery it worked great. Easy to control with plenty of power. No
>> noise nor chuck key to keep up with either.
>>
>> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From: *Marty Helller <marty_away(at)hotmail.com
>> >
>> *Date: *Wed, 6 Jan 2010 12:12:34 +0000
>> *To: *>
>> *Subject: *RE: RV-List: Gathering Tools
>>
>> Without trying to start more 'primer type' wars=2C all the posts I've
>> read = stated the same thing about buying quaility tools. =3B
>> =3B
>> The one 'blastphomeous' part I'll sugest is getting a good=2C fast=2C
>> elect= ic drill (spinning 1700 or better).
>> Yes=2C they are bigger=2C bulkier=2C and heavy than an air drill=3B
>> but you= don't need to wait for the compressor to re-charge. =3B I
>> got that Bla= zing Flash of the Obvious (BFO) tip from
>> this =3Bforum=2C where the aut= hor quoted=2C 'and I never looked
>> back.' and I agree. =3B
>>
>> Four =3Bother tips:
>> - Roto-zip for a die grinder (same reason)
>> - Good quality dimple dies=3B else you'll buy many lower cost ones
>> - =3BTALCO squeezer and accesories=3B It's worth its 'lack of weight'
>> f= or the gold you spend on it.
>> - =3B 90 degree threaded drill set as a= lready mentioned--very
>> pricey for what they are=3B but very=2C =3B very= helpful.
>> =3B
>> FWIW
>> =3B
>> Marty
>> RV-7 (Baffling and Cowling)
>> =3B
>> =3B
>> =3B
>>
>> =3B
>>
>> >=3B From: ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com <mailto:ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>
>> >=3B To: rv-list@matronics.= com
>> >=3B Subject: RE: RV-List: Gathering Tools
>> >=3B Date: Tue=2C = 5 Jan 2010 16:37:25 -0800
>> >=3B
>> >=3B -->=3B RV-List message pos= ted by: "Ralph &=3B Maria Finch"
>> <=3Bralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com
>> >=3B>=3B
>> >=3B >=3B What do you all think of this setup?
>> >=3B &=
>> gt=3B http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&=3Bitem=
>> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&=3Bitem=> =380096619052#ht_1475wt_941
>> >=3B
>> >=3B Yuck.
>> >=3B
>> >= =3B You will be sure to be frustrated with the cheap junk. The
>> Harbor Freig= ht-like quality is OK for a few seldom used items=2C
>> but for your main tool= s=2C get quality stuff. Think about it=2C
>> your airplane build final cost is= anywhere from $30K to $80K
>> including kit=2C engine=2C accessories=2C and i= nstruments +
>> avionics...and you're trying to save a few hundred with cheap = tools?
>> >=3B
>> >=3B I have an Excel worksheet=2C now a couple years= old=2C of
>> recommended tools and suppliers from one of the well-known build= ing
>> trainers. I won't post it publically because the list started with
>> them= (I put it into Excel)=2C but will email to those interested.
>> The prices an= d links are now somewhat old but the items still relevant.
>> >=3B
>> &g= t=3B Ralph Finch
>> >=3B Davis=2C California
>> >=3B RV-9A QB-SA
>> >= =3B
>> >=3B
>> >=3B
>> >=3B
>> >=3B __________ Information from= ESET Smart Security=2C version of
>> virus signature database 4746 (20100105)= __________
>> >=3B
>> >=3B The message was checked by ESET Smart Secu= ==
>> >=3B
>> >=3B
>> >=3B
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Your = E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign
>> up now. = <3D%27http:/=>
>> *
>>
>> 3D============================================
>> face="3D"courier" new,courier"="">* <3D%27http:/=>*http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List <3D%22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List%22>
>> 3D============================================
>> href="3D"http://forums.matronics.com"">http://forums.matronics.com
>> 3D============================================
>> href="3D"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> 3D============================================
>>
>> *
>> *
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More on Tools (moron tools?) |
| From: | fiveonepw(at)aol.com |
>From the FWIW dept. if ya don't mind a bit of reading, see:
?
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/?q=tools
?
Worked for me, and most applies to the new kits as well...
?
Mark Phillips, RV-6A "Mojo" 550+ hrs and she's STILL a good girl!
8-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RICHARD MILLER <rickpegser(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering Tools |
With twenty years of sheet metal experience. i have bought every tool in the book.
used counter sink cages are a decent deal off ebay along with 90 degree drills
at worse they will need bearings. Get a pneumatic squeeze you are going to
want one. with a quick trip to the welder you can modify the dimpling frame
to accept the squeeze.
About drills, a good pneumatic 3/8 chuck high speed is what you want. and a electric
1/2 slow speed
die grinders, these are harbor freight items. just include an in-line oilier and
they will live long beyond this project.
clecos you can never have too many.
A good setup shop/ with easy access will save you years off the build time.
insulate your compressor/ you and your neighbors will appreciate it.
rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's oil cooler shutter |
Hi Ralph,=0A=0AFinally some pix.- Let me know if they don't come through.
- I'll move it away from Yahoo.- Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of t
he shutter before installation, but it is about 3/8 in thick and same width
and length as the cooler.- You mate it up to the cooler then, using the
cooler as a drill guide,-drill through the shutter for the mounting holes
.- Stick the bolts through the cooler and the shutter and then bolt that
assy to the baffle.- The control cable mounts to an arm that swings (airc
raft) left and right to vary the shutter air opening.- It mounts to this
arm via a collar and set screw the same as the carb heat set up.- Be cert
ain you have upper cowl clearance before final assembly.- As you can see
from the photos, the shutter, when fully opened still blocks a portion of t
he air into the cooler.- I have NOT determined if or how much effect this
will have on summer activities.- I suspect it will have some effect.-
If that is the case,
removing the shutter is as simple as removing and reinstalling four bolts.
- Shouldn't even have to remove the oil lines. -The hard part is messin
g with the cowl.- I guess, just do it at oil change.- The acuator cable
is also from Vans.- It's the standard cable they use for carb heat and c
abin heat.- I side mounted my throttle quadrant forward of the left arm r
est - ala Dan Checkoway.- The push pull knob is then attached to the smal
l bracket that secures the engine control-cables prior to entering the qu
adrant --just below the left airvent eyeball.- Winter time flying works
great.- Jury still out on the hot summer Kansas days.- =0ACongrats on
Patience (love the name).- Fly safe.=0A=0ASteve Stucky=0AVariEze 282S=0AR
V-7 283S (Wake Turbulence)-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________________________
_=0AFrom: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>=0ATo: rv-list <rv-list@mat
ronics.com>; lycoming engine list =0ASe
nt: Mon, January 4, 2010 3:07:49 PM=0ASubject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler sh
nk.net>=0A=0AAnyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinde
r?=0A=0AWould like to see pictures - hear your story.=0A=0AMy Vernatherm an
d oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold in the winter.
=0A=0AMy IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degre
e oil temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower
OAT ranges.=0A=0AWe get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa
peninsula so a fixed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense -
like this cockpit controllable unit.=0A=0AThanks in advance!=0ARalph Capen
=0AN822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done with the first annual.=0A=0A
==============0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's oil cooler shutter |
Hi Bruce,=0A=0AFinally some pix.- Let me know if they don't come through.
- I'll move it away from Yahoo.- Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of t
he shutter before installation, but it is about 3/8 in thick and same width
and length as the cooler.- You mate it up to the cooler then, using the
cooler as a drill guide,-drill through the shutter for the mounting holes
.- Stick the bolts through the cooler and the shutter and then bolt that
assy to the baffle.- The control cable mounts to an arm that swings (airc
raft) left and right to vary the shutter air opening.- It mounts to this
arm via a collar and set screw the same as the carb heat set up.- Be cert
ain you have upper cowl clearance before final assembly.- As you can see
from the photos, the shutter, when fully opened still blocks a portion of t
he air into the cooler.- I have NOT determined if or how much effect this
will have on summer activities.- I suspect it will have some effect.-
If that is the case,
removing the shutter is as simple as removing and reinstalling four bolts.
- Shouldn't even have to remove the oil lines. -The hard part is messin
g with the cowl.- I guess, just do it at oil change.- The acuator cable
is also from Vans.- It's the standard cable they use for carb heat and c
abin heat.- I side mounted my throttle quadrant forward of the left arm r
est - ala Dan Checkoway.- The push pull knob is then attached to the smal
l bracket that secures the engine control-cables prior to entering the qu
adrant --just below the left airvent eyeball.- Winter time flying works
great.- Jury still out on the hot summer Kansas days.- On the 7, the o
il cooler mounts on the baffle behind cyl #7.- Not sure of your cooler se
tup on the 8. My friends 8 is mounted on the lower left air entrance.- I
guess it's just a matter of routing the control cable differantly.- Email
me if you have questions.=0A=0A=0Aps--I tried to get this to the list
but I doubt it made it, so sending it to you and a couple others.=0A=0AStev
e Stucky=0AVariEze 282S=0ARV-7 283S (Wake Turbulence)-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A____
____________________________=0AFrom: BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com>
=0ATo: Matronics =0ASent: Tue, January 5, 2010 6:21:
44 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter=0A=0ASteve, I take i
t your not using the shutter style oil cooler set-up. If possible when the
photo's are available try to host them and post a link for us to learn from
. TIA, Bruce=0ARV-8=0A-=0A________________________________=0ADate: Mon, 4
: Van's oil cooler shutter=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com; lycomingengines-lis
t(at)matronics.com=0A=0A=0AJust flew back from California to Topeka, Ks.- Ou
tside departure temp was 19 when I left Topeka and arrival temp was 12.-
I flew at 10,500 and 9,500 over the rockies.- My oat temp was never above
28 F however the sensor is in the cabin air inlet area and I'm told it rea
ds high due to the engine heat.- But, I was able to very the oil temp bet
ween 160 and 180 the entire way.- It works!- If you want some pix I'll
send them (they're still in the camera).- Installation was easy as was th
e cable routing.- I would do it again in a heart beat.- And, no. I'm no
t going to mention the temperature in Southern California!!!=0A=0ASteve Stu
cky=0ARV-7=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Ralph E. Capen
=0ATo: rv-list ; lycoming eng
ine list =0ASent: Mon, January 4, 2010
4:03:14 PM=0ASubject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter=0A=0A--> RV-List me
ssage posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" =0A=0AAnyone have
one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?=0A=0AWould like to see
pictures - hear your story.=0A=0AMy Vernatherm and oil temp sender are bot
h good - my oil temp runs too cold in the winter.=0A=0AMy IO360B1F6 with SW
8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil temp in the summer (
OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT ranges.=0A=0AWe get so
me weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a fixed block
-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this cockpit controll
able unit.=0A=0AThanks in advance!=0ARalph Capen=0AN822AR (Patience) @ N06
47hrs - almost done withntent also available via the - - - - -
- - - - -Matt Drall=============0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AHotmail: Powerful Free em
======0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Bell" <glennbell(at)cablelynx.com> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
Just a little off topic. I will be ready to measure for hoses this weekend
and intend to use the aeroquip 666 teflon hoses for both fuel and oil..i
have planned to uses hoses with the integrated firesleeve.two
questions..first, is the firesleeve absolutely the right thing to do. I have
seen a lot of installations without it..Second, is there another source for
these hoses besides spruce ie cheaper..
Back on topic.we installed the sw double pass filter and are thinking we may
need to restrict airflow in the winter too..we were considering the somewhat
less sophisticated duct tape alternative..
Thanks
8A
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Hi Ralph,
Finally some pix. Let me know if they don't come through. I'll move it
away from Yahoo. Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of the shutter before
installation, but it is about 3/8 in thick and same width and length as the
cooler. You mate it up to the cooler then, using the cooler as a drill
guide, drill through the shutter for the mounting holes. Stick the bolts
through the cooler and the shutter and then bolt that assy to the baffle.
The control cable mounts to an arm that swings (aircraft) left and right to
vary the shutter air opening. It mounts to this arm via a collar and set
screw the same as the carb heat set up. Be certain you have upper cowl
clearance before final assembly. As you can see from the photos, the
shutter, when fully opened still blocks a portion of the air into the
cooler. I have NOT determined if or how much effect this will have on
summer activities. I suspect it will have some effect. If that is the
case, removing the shutter is as simple as removing and reinstalling four
bolts. Shouldn't even have to remove the oil lines. The hard part is
messing with the cowl. I guess, just do it at oil change. The acuator
cable is also from Vans. It's the standard cable they use for carb heat and
cabin heat. I side mounted my throttle quadrant forward of the left arm
rest - ala Dan Checkoway. The push pull knob is then attached to the small
bracket that secures the engine control cables prior to entering the
quadrant - just below the left airvent eyeball. Winter time flying works
great. Jury still out on the hot summer Kansas days.
Congrats on Patience (love the name). Fly safe.
Steve Stucky
VariEze 282S
RV-7 283S (Wake Turbulence)
_____
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 3:07:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold
in the winter.
My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil
temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT
ranges.
We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a
fixed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this
cockpit controllable unit.
Thanks in advance!
Ralph Capen
N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done withalso available via the Web
bsp; -Matt Dralle, ==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
This looks like a nice way to control oil cooler air flow for those mounting
coolers someplace other than the rear baffle:
4" version
http://www.nonstopaviation.com/rv10-controller-cooler-p-14566.html?osCsid=bc
77b7d1ef861c7cd83d92c5a28010dc
3" version http://www.nonstopaviation.com/controller-cooler-p-14592.html
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Bell
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 11:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Just a little off topic. I will be ready to measure for hoses this weekend
and intend to use the aeroquip 666 teflon hoses for both fuel and oil..i
have planned to uses hoses with the integrated firesleeve.two
questions..first, is the firesleeve absolutely the right thing to do. I have
seen a lot of installations without it..Second, is there another source for
these hoses besides spruce ie cheaper..
Back on topic.we installed the sw double pass filter and are thinking we may
need to restrict airflow in the winter too..we were considering the somewhat
less sophisticated duct tape alternative..
Thanks
8A
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Hi Ralph,
Finally some pix. Let me know if they don't come through. I'll move it
away from Yahoo. Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of the shutter before
installation, but it is about 3/8 in thick and same width and length as the
cooler. You mate it up to the cooler then, using the cooler as a drill
guide, drill through the shutter for the mounting holes. Stick the bolts
through the cooler and the shutter and then bolt that assy to the baffle.
The control cable mounts to an arm that swings (aircraft) left and right to
vary the shutter air opening. It mounts to this arm via a collar and set
screw the same as the carb heat set up. Be certain you have upper cowl
clearance before final assembly. As you can see from the photos, the
shutter, when fully opened still blocks a portion of the air into the
cooler. I have NOT determined if or how much effect this will have on
summer activities. I suspect it will have some effect. If that is the
case, removing the shutter is as simple as removing and reinstalling four
bolts. Shouldn't even have to remove the oil lines. The hard part is
messing with the cowl. I guess, just do it at oil change. The acuator
cable is also from Vans. It's the standard cable they use for carb heat and
cabin heat. I side mounted my throttle quadrant forward of the left arm
rest - ala Dan Checkoway. The push pull knob is then attached to the small
bracket that secures the engine control cables prior to entering the
quadrant - just below the left airvent eyeball. Winter time flying works
great. Jury still out on the hot summer Kansas days.
Congrats on Patience (love the name). Fly safe.
Steve Stucky
VariEze 282S
RV-7 283S (Wake Turbulence)
_____
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 3:07:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold
in the winter.
My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil
temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT
ranges.
We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a
fixed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this
cockpit controllable unit.
Thanks in advance!
Ralph Capen
N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done withalso available via the Web
bsp; -Matt Dralle, ==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Bell" <glennbell(at)cablelynx.com> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
Sorry.cooler..not filter..
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Bell
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Just a little off topic. I will be ready to measure for hoses this weekend
and intend to use the aeroquip 666 teflon hoses for both fuel and oil..i
have planned to uses hoses with the integrated firesleeve.two
questions..first, is the firesleeve absolutely the right thing to do. I have
seen a lot of installations without it..Second, is there another source for
these hoses besides spruce ie cheaper..
Back on topic.we installed the sw double pass filter and are thinking we may
need to restrict airflow in the winter too..we were considering the somewhat
less sophisticated duct tape alternative..
Thanks
8A
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Hi Ralph,
Finally some pix. Let me know if they don't come through. I'll move it
away from Yahoo. Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of the shutter before
installation, but it is about 3/8 in thick and same width and length as the
cooler. You mate it up to the cooler then, using the cooler as a drill
guide, drill through the shutter for the mounting holes. Stick the bolts
through the cooler and the shutter and then bolt that assy to the baffle.
The control cable mounts to an arm that swings (aircraft) left and right to
vary the shutter air opening. It mounts to this arm via a collar and set
screw the same as the carb heat set up. Be certain you have upper cowl
clearance before final assembly. As you can see from the photos, the
shutter, when fully opened still blocks a portion of the air into the
cooler. I have NOT determined if or how much effect this will have on
summer activities. I suspect it will have some effect. If that is the
case, removing the shutter is as simple as removing and reinstalling four
bolts. Shouldn't even have to remove the oil lines. The hard part is
messing with the cowl. I guess, just do it at oil change. The acuator
cable is also from Vans. It's the standard cable they use for carb heat and
cabin heat. I side mounted my throttle quadrant forward of the left arm
rest - ala Dan Checkoway. The push pull knob is then attached to the small
bracket that secures the engine control cables prior to entering the
quadrant - just below the left airvent eyeball. Winter time flying works
great. Jury still out on the hot summer Kansas days.
Congrats on Patience (love the name). Fly safe.
Steve Stucky
VariEze 282S
RV-7 283S (Wake Turbulence)
_____
From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 3:07:49 PM
Subject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold
in the winter.
My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil
temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT
ranges.
We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a
fixed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this
cockpit controllable unit.
Thanks in advance!
Ralph Capen
N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done withalso available via the Web
bsp; -Matt Dralle, ==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Van's oil cooler shutter |
You can get the hoses with integrated fire sleeve in brown or blue from Heber Aircraft in Torrance CA http://www.herberaircraft.com. They treat every order as an AOG so you will get very fast service. I used them for all my oil and fuel lines.
Don VS
RV7 flying
---- Glenn Bell wrote:
> Just a little off topic. I will be ready to measure for hoses this weekend
> and intend to use the aeroquip 666 teflon hoses for both fuel and oil..i
> have planned to uses hoses with the integrated firesleeve.two
> questions..first, is the firesleeve absolutely the right thing to do. I have
> seen a lot of installations without it..Second, is there another source for
> these hoses besides spruce ie cheaper..
>
> Back on topic.we installed the sw double pass filter and are thinking we may
> need to restrict airflow in the winter too..we were considering the somewhat
> less sophisticated duct tape alternative..
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> 8A
>
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:02 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
>
>
>
> Hi Ralph,
>
>
>
> Finally some pix. Let me know if they don't come through. I'll move it
> away from Yahoo. Unfortunately I didn't take a pic of the shutter before
> installation, but it is about 3/8 in thick and same width and length as the
> cooler. You mate it up to the cooler then, using the cooler as a drill
> guide, drill through the shutter for the mounting holes. Stick the bolts
> through the cooler and the shutter and then bolt that assy to the baffle.
> The control cable mounts to an arm that swings (aircraft) left and right to
> vary the shutter air opening. It mounts to this arm via a collar and set
> screw the same as the carb heat set up. Be certain you have upper cowl
> clearance before final assembly. As you can see from the photos, the
> shutter, when fully opened still blocks a portion of the air into the
> cooler. I have NOT determined if or how much effect this will have on
> summer activities. I suspect it will have some effect. If that is the
> case, removing the shutter is as simple as removing and reinstalling four
> bolts. Shouldn't even have to remove the oil lines. The hard part is
> messing with the cowl. I guess, just do it at oil change. The acuator
> cable is also from Vans. It's the standard cable they use for carb heat and
> cabin heat. I side mounted my throttle quadrant forward of the left arm
> rest - ala Dan Checkoway. The push pull knob is then attached to the small
> bracket that secures the engine control cables prior to entering the
> quadrant - just below the left airvent eyeball. Winter time flying works
> great. Jury still out on the hot summer Kansas days.
>
> Congrats on Patience (love the name). Fly safe.
>
>
>
> Steve Stucky
>
> VariEze 282S
>
> RV-7 283S (Wake Turbulence)
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: Ralph E. Capen <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> To: rv-list ; lycoming engine list
>
> Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 3:07:49 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Van's oil cooler shutter
>
>
> Anyone have one of these on their baffle behind the #4 cylinder?
>
> Would like to see pictures - hear your story.
>
> My Vernatherm and oil temp sender are both good - my oil temp runs too cold
> in the winter.
>
> My IO360B1F6 with SW 8406R cooler gives me a straight-line 185F degree oil
> temp in the summer (OAT over 65F) - but won't make 150F in the lower OAT
> ranges.
>
> We get some weird temperature ranges here on the DelMarVa peninsula so a
> fixed block-off plate inside my plenum doesn't make sense - like this
> cockpit controllable unit.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Ralph Capen
> N822AR (Patience) @ N06 47hrs - almost done withalso available via the Web
> bsp; -Matt Dralle, ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Anderson" <mregoan(at)hispeed.ch> |
| Subject: | Any Australian RV-10's out there? |
Hi all,
I'm new to the forum and am about to start the empennage. Still
experimenting on the training project, and hoping the aircraft is going to
look a lot better J
I'm planning a trip out to Australia next week and wondering if there are
any flying RV-10's in Perth or Melbourne I could take a look at, in search
of inspiration and guidance?
Best wishes to all for the new year.
Gordon Anderson
RV-10 #41015
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MGL Odyssey/Voyager |
Anyone in Florida using the MGL Odyssey or Voyager?I've installed the Odyssey in
a Lancair and have some issues. I would appreciate some help.
Thanks
--------
Peter Laurence
RV9A Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280934#280934
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MGL Odyssey/Voyager |
I'm in the installation phase of my Odyssey's .... what
issues?
There's also a forum at stratomaster_users_group(at)yahoogroups.com
where there is a wealth if knowledge.
Linn
plaurence wrote:
>
> Anyone in Florida using the MGL Odyssey or Voyager?I've installed the Odyssey
in a Lancair and have some issues. I would appreciate some help.
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Peter Laurence
> RV9A Fuse
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280934#280934
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern Darley,II" <vern(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 01/10/10 |
On Jan 11, 2010, at 2:59 AM, RV-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest
> formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked
> Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII
> version
> of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-01-10&Archive=RV
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-01-10&Archive=RV
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 01/10/10: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 12:14 PM - MGL Odyssey/Voyager (plaurence)
> 2. 03:48 PM - Re: MGL Odyssey/Voyager (Linn Walters)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: MGL Odyssey/Voyager
> From: "plaurence" <plaurence@the-beach.net>
>
>
> Anyone in Florida using the MGL Odyssey or Voyager?I've installed
> the Odyssey in
> a Lancair and have some issues. I would appreciate some help.
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Peter Laurence
> RV9A Fuse
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280934#280934
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: MGL Odyssey/Voyager
>
>
> I'm in the installation phase of my Odyssey's .... what
> issues?
> There's also a forum at stratomaster_users_group(at)yahoogroups.com
> where there is a wealth if knowledge.
> Linn
>
> plaurence wrote:
>>
>> Anyone in Florida using the MGL Odyssey or Voyager?I've installed
>> the Odyssey
> in a Lancair and have some issues. I would appreciate some help.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> --------
>> Peter Laurence
>> RV9A Fuse
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=280934#280934
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Vern Darley
RV-6A N680V / RV-10QB
Falcon RV Squadron
KFFC Hanger D-30
Peachtree City, GA
www.falconrv.com
770 310-7169
EAA Technical Counselor #5142
EAA Flight Advisor #486336
ATP/CFI/A&P/DAR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | detecting fuel leaks |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Yesterday I put a couple gallons of avgas in my left tank (for the first
time), closed the AFP purge valve, selected left tank, unscrewed the drain
valve from the right tank and switched on my AFP boost pump, also for the
first time. The fuel did what it was supposed to. It got sucked out of the
left tank through the whole system and into the right tank and dribbled out
into a bucket. I blew a quart or so through it just to try to remove the
years of dust and debris. So far so good.
I didn't see any leaks, but there is a lot of fttings to check. I am
surprised at how quickly avgas evaporates. A small drop of gas at a hose
fitting might evaporate before I could get around to looking for it. Is
there anything that can be wrapped around a joint that would leave a
telltale of some sort if it got wet with avgas? A sort of litmus paper for
gas instead of acid?
I hope to start the engine this weekend and fly within a few weeks after
that.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: detecting fuel leaks |
Tom, put a piece of paper towel under the fittings and close
off the return line to the tank so you can build up some
pressure ..... shouldn't take long for a blue stain to
appear on the paper towel if it's leaking.
Linn
thomas sargent wrote:
> Yesterday I put a couple gallons of avgas in my left tank (for the first
> time), closed the AFP purge valve, selected left tank, unscrewed the
> drain valve from the right tank and switched on my AFP boost pump, also
> for the first time. The fuel did what it was supposed to. It got
> sucked out of the left tank through the whole system and into the right
> tank and dribbled out into a bucket. I blew a quart or so through it
> just to try to remove the years of dust and debris. So far so good.
>
> I didn't see any leaks, but there is a lot of fttings to check. I am
> surprised at how quickly avgas evaporates. A small drop of gas at a
> hose fitting might evaporate before I could get around to looking for
> it. Is there anything that can be wrapped around a joint that would
> leave a telltale of some sort if it got wet with avgas? A sort of
> litmus paper for gas instead of acid?
>
> I hope to start the engine this weekend and fly within a few weeks after
> that.
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: detecting fuel leaks |
Yes, talc or talcum powder will work. The dye in the av gas will stain the powder.
Charlie Kuss
--- On Mon, 1/11/10, thomas sargent wrote:
> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: detecting fuel leaks
> To: "rv-list"
> Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 3:51 PM
> Yesterday I put a couple gallons of avgas
> in my left tank (for the first time), closed the AFP purge
> valve, selected left tank, unscrewed the drain valve from
> the right tank and switched on my AFP boost pump, also for
> the first time. The fuel did what it was supposed to. It
> got sucked out of the left tank through the whole system and
> into the right tank and dribbled out into a bucket. I blew
> a quart or so through it just to try to remove the years of
> dust and debris. So far so good.
>
>
> I didn't see any leaks, but there is a lot of fttings
> to check. I am surprised at how quickly avgas
> evaporates. A small drop of gas at a hose fitting might
> evaporate before I could get around to looking for it. Is
> there anything that can be wrapped around a joint that would
> leave a telltale of some sort if it got wet with avgas? A
> sort of litmus paper for gas instead of acid?
>
>
> I hope to start the engine this weekend and fly within a
> few weeks after that.
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John D." <altoq(at)cebridge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: detecting fuel leaks |
Tatgac
Use spray on type foot power ( Desinex, etc ). Its mostly talcum and works
good, also lubricates Teflon Hemi joints. Developer for Die penetrant also
does good job of detecting leaks.
John D
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Charles Kuss" <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: detecting fuel leaks
>
> Yes, talc or talcum powder will work. The dye in the av gas will stain the
> powder.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> --- On Mon, 1/11/10, thomas sargent wrote:
>
>> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: detecting fuel leaks
>> To: "rv-list"
>> Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 3:51 PM
>> Yesterday I put a couple gallons of avgas
>> in my left tank (for the first time), closed the AFP purge
>> valve, selected left tank, unscrewed the drain valve from
>> the right tank and switched on my AFP boost pump, also for
>> the first time. The fuel did what it was supposed to. It
>> got sucked out of the left tank through the whole system and
>> into the right tank and dribbled out into a bucket. I blew
>> a quart or so through it just to try to remove the years of
>> dust and debris. So far so good.
>>
>>
>> I didn't see any leaks, but there is a lot of fttings
>> to check. I am surprised at how quickly avgas
>> evaporates. A small drop of gas at a hose fitting might
>> evaporate before I could get around to looking for it. Is
>> there anything that can be wrapped around a joint that would
>> leave a telltale of some sort if it got wet with avgas? A
>> sort of litmus paper for gas instead of acid?
>>
>>
>> I hope to start the engine this weekend and fly within a
>> few weeks after that.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
IIRC, the es-pc680 battery install kit for the -6/7/9 includes a steel
battery tray. It would seem that a frame of aluminum angle would be
strong enough & lighter. Does anyone know if steel is really needed, or
am I wrong about the weight issue?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
It is very thin and does not weight much. Van's directions are to cut 8
large lightening holes in it.
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
Charlie England wrote:
>
> IIRC, the es-pc680 battery install kit for the -6/7/9 includes a steel
> battery tray. It would seem that a frame of aluminum angle would be
> strong enough & lighter. Does anyone know if steel is really needed,
> or am I wrong about the weight issue?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
There was some discussion on the VAF forum a while back describing why
it might be better not to cut the holes. Seems that have been some
instances of a PC680 expanding just enough to protrude into the holes
enough to make the battery very difficult to remove. Saving an ounce or
two might not be worth the hassle.
Sam Buchanan
===============
On 1/17/2010 8:01 PM, Bobby Hester wrote:
>
> It is very thin and does not weight much. Van's directions are to cut 8
> large lightening holes in it.
>
> ----
> Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
> Visit my web site:
> http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
>
>
> Charlie England wrote:
>>
>> IIRC, the es-pc680 battery install kit for the -6/7/9 includes a steel
>> battery tray. It would seem that a frame of aluminum angle would be
>> strong enough & lighter. Does anyone know if steel is really needed,
>> or am I wrong about the weight issue?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
Makes sense. But is there a pressing reason to use steel? I don't mind
fabricating an aluminum frame, & that's $50 I could spend somewhere else.
Charlie
On 1/17/2010 8:51 PM, Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> There was some discussion on the VAF forum a while back describing why
> it might be better not to cut the holes. Seems that have been some
> instances of a PC680 expanding just enough to protrude into the holes
> enough to make the battery very difficult to remove. Saving an ounce
> or two might not be worth the hassle.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> ===============
>
> On 1/17/2010 8:01 PM, Bobby Hester wrote:
>>
>>
>> It is very thin and does not weight much. Van's directions are to cut 8
>> large lightening holes in it.
>>
>> ----
>> Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
>> Visit my web site:
>> http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
>>
>>
>>
>> Charlie England wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> IIRC, the es-pc680 battery install kit for the -6/7/9 includes a steel
>>> battery tray. It would seem that a frame of aluminum angle would be
>>> strong enough & lighter. Does anyone know if steel is really needed,
>>> or am I wrong about the weight issue?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
I just replaced my PC680. I found that with the help of the holes I
was able to remove and install the new battery easily by poking my
fingers through the holes to help lift the battery out. Also I was
able to do it with only the top cowling removed --love those
lightening holes!!
dave
On Jan 17, 2010, at 6:51 PM, Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
> There was some discussion on the VAF forum a while back describing
> why it might be better not to cut the holes. Seems that have been
> some instances of a PC680 expanding just enough to protrude into the
> holes enough to make the battery very difficult to remove. Saving an
> ounce or two might not be worth the hassle.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> ===============
>
> On 1/17/2010 8:01 PM, Bobby Hester wrote:
>> >
>>
>> It is very thin and does not weight much. Van's directions are to
>> cut 8
>> large lightening holes in it.
>>
>> ----
>> Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
>> Visit my web site:
>> http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
>>
>>
>>
>> Charlie England wrote:
>>> >
>>>
>>> IIRC, the es-pc680 battery install kit for the -6/7/9 includes a
>>> steel
>>> battery tray. It would seem that a frame of aluminum angle would be
>>> strong enough & lighter. Does anyone know if steel is really needed,
>>> or am I wrong about the weight issue?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Charlie
>>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Steube" <at6c(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
Charlie,
Weight is not a problem. I don't recall which one I used but next time you
come down to this end of the runway you can look at mine.
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 7:05 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray??
IIRC, the es-pc680 battery install kit for the -6/7/9 includes a steel
battery tray. It would seem that a frame of aluminum angle would be
strong enough & lighter. Does anyone know if steel is really needed, or
am I wrong about the weight issue?
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)starband.net> |
Hi all,
I just had to comment on a milestone in my project.
I have been working on a very slow build RV-6 for more years than I care to
mention and progress has been slow and at times nonexistent.
But finally, after a very productive couple of weeks, I have both fuel tanks
pro-sealed. This is after many years of procrastination and fretting over
the task. It feels good to achieve these steps even if it does take years
to get there. In the end you wonder why you put it off so long.
Messy-absolutely. Hard-not really! The idea of doing it was the worst
thing.
I have always monitored this list and the topics discussed over the years
and it has helped to keep me informed and interested in my project.
Now-on to the Fuselage!
Dave Bergh
RV-6
Mountain Home, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv7aodyssey(at)aol.com |
Dave,
It took me 9 long years, I am flying now and it was all worth it. Hang
in there the end will come.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph & Maria Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com> |
I just came across a web site with a trick Ernest Hemmingway used for
writing.but it could be used for any long project.
http://www.secondactive.com/2009/08/boost-your-productivity-with-hemingways.
html
"The best way is always to stop when you are going good and when you know
what will happen next. If you do that every day . you will never be stuck.
Always stop while you are going good and don't think about it or worry about
it until you start to write the next day. That way your subconscious will
work on it all the time. But if you think about it consciously or worry
about it you will kill it and your brain will be tired before you start."
Ralph Finch
Davis, California
RV-9A QB-SA
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bergh
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 12:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Milestone
Hi all,
I just had to comment on a milestone in my project.
I have been working on a very slow build RV-6 for more years than I care to
mention and progress has been slow and at times nonexistent.
But finally, after a very productive couple of weeks, I have both fuel tanks
pro-sealed. This is after many years of procrastination and fretting over
the task. It feels good to achieve these steps even if it does take years
to get there. In the end you wonder why you put it off so long.
Messy-absolutely. Hard-not really! The idea of doing it was the worst
thing.
I have always monitored this list and the topics discussed over the years
and it has helped to keep me informed and interested in my project.
Now-on to the Fuselage!
Dave Bergh
RV-6
Mountain Home, ID
__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 4784 (20100118) __________
The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
Dave, I just ordered my finishing kit, I should have done it the day
after Thanksgiving, procrastination is our real enemy. I have been
thinking about the engine and I should have just went ahead and ordered
the finishing kit. I think if I spent more time on the project and less
time on worrying, I would be much better off! Grad on the fuel tanks,
it is a milestone.
Jim Fogarty
RV9a building
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Bergh
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 2:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Milestone
Hi all,
I just had to comment on a milestone in my project.
I have been working on a very slow build RV-6 for more years than I
care to mention and progress has been slow and at times nonexistent.
But finally, after a very productive couple of weeks, I have both fuel
tanks pro-sealed. This is after many years of procrastination and
fretting over the task. It feels good to achieve these steps even if it
does take years to get there. In the end you wonder why you put it off
so long. Messy-absolutely. Hard-not really! The idea of doing it was
the worst thing.
I have always monitored this list and the topics discussed over the
years and it has helped to keep me informed and interested in my
project.
Now-on to the Fuselage!
Dave Bergh
RV-6
Mountain Home, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com |
How about 16 years, Dave? My RV-6A is in the finishing stages now, wiring
and canopy to go. If I could really focus I might have it flying by next
fall.
By the way, I grew up in Caldwell. How is the weather? I am currently in
AZ.
George Stanley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)starband.net> |
You got me by a few years (3 to be exact)!
Weather is warmer (50 degrees F.) but windy today.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Milestone
How about 16 years, Dave? My RV-6A is in the finishing stages now, wiring
and canopy to go. If I could really focus I might have it flying by next
fall.
By the way, I grew up in Caldwell. How is the weather? I am currently in
AZ.
George Stanley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
DAVE:
CONGRATULATIONS RE COMPLETION OF THE FUEL TANKS - THAT'S A BIG ONE. IT TOOK
MY WIFE AND ME SIX WEEKS TO DO BOTH TANKS. STAY WITH IT. ONE LITTLE SUB
ELEMENT AT A TIME AND, BEFORE YOU KNOW IT, THEY COME TOGETHER INTO AN
AIRPLANE. IT TOOK US 6.5 YEARS TO GET IT FLYING AND ANOTHER 5+ MONTHS TO
FINISH OFF THE FAIRINGS. IT'S DONE NOW AND FLYING BEAUTIFULLY.
GOOD BUILDING!
DAN BERGERON
N307TB
83 HOURS SINCE FIRST FLIGHT ON 8/4/09
On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 3:25 PM, Dave Bergh wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I just had to comment on a milestone in my project.
>
> I have been working on a very slow build RV-6 for more years than I care to
> mention and progress has been slow and at times nonexistent.
>
> But finally, after a very productive couple of weeks, I have both fuel
> tanks pro-sealed. This is after many years of procrastination and fretting
> over the task. It feels good to achieve these steps even if it does take
> years to get there. In the end you wonder why you put it off so long.
> Messy-absolutely. Hard-not really! The idea of doing it was the worst
> thing.
>
> I have always monitored this list and the topics discussed over the years
> and it has helped to keep me informed and interested in my project.
>
> Now-on to the Fuselage!
>
>
> Dave Bergh
>
> RV-6
>
> Mountain Home, ID
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Nellis <mike(at)bmnellis.com> |
I'm right there with you guys, first kit delivery (non pre-punched) in
1996. Working on the roll-bar....well, "working" is a loose term. Life
got in the way.
Mike
>
> You got me by a few years (3 to be exact)!
>
> Weather is warmer (50 degrees F.) but windy today.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *wndwlkr1228(at)aol.com
> *Sent:* Monday, January 18, 2010 4:54 PM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Milestone
>
>
>
> How about 16 years, Dave? My RV-6A is in the finishing stages now,
> wiring and canopy to go. If I could really focus I might have it
> flying by next fall.
>
>
>
> By the way, I grew up in Caldwell. How is the weather? I am
> currently in AZ.
>
>
>
> George Stanley
>
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)starband.net> |
Thanks Dan!
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Bergeron
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Milestone
DAVE:
CONGRATULATIONS RE COMPLETION OF THE FUEL TANKS - THAT'S A BIG ONE. IT TOOK
MY
Dave Bergh
RV-6
Mountain Home, ID
==== t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Yikes! Started the engine on N811WT yesterday (with a lot of assistance
from Roy Russell).
Left mag works good, Lightspeed Ignition may not be timed right, but it does
run on on it. The engine instruments all seem to work, the alternator
works, no obvious leaks.
Hope to be flying in a few weeks.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine start! |
Tom,
I know that feeling - work out the couple bugs...congrats - you're real close!
It's well worth it,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jan 19, 2010 11:07 AM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: engine start!
>
>Yikes! Started the engine on N811WT yesterday (with a lot of assistance
>from Roy Russell).
>
>Left mag works good, Lightspeed Ignition may not be timed right, but it does
>run on on it. The engine instruments all seem to work, the alternator
>works, no obvious leaks.
>
>Hope to be flying in a few weeks.
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Utsey" <randy(at)djdist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine start! |
Good job! My first start was nothing but backfires!
Randy Utsey
RV-7
Charlotte, NC
800-585-4126
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine start!
>
> Tom,
>
> I know that feeling - work out the couple bugs...congrats - you're real
> close!
>
> It's well worth it,
> Ralph
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>>Sent: Jan 19, 2010 11:07 AM
>>To: rv-list
>>Subject: RV-List: engine start!
>>
>>Yikes! Started the engine on N811WT yesterday (with a lot of assistance
>>from Roy Russell).
>>
>>Left mag works good, Lightspeed Ignition may not be timed right, but it
>>does
>>run on on it. The engine instruments all seem to work, the alternator
>>works, no obvious leaks.
>>
>>Hope to be flying in a few weeks.
>>
>>--
>>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray?? |
Thanks; I'll head down when I get the chance. I'm actually more
concerned with the $50 cost for the kit. I need to look a what the
individual components cost.
Charlie
On 1/18/2010 7:15 AM, George Steube wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "George Steube"
>
> Charlie,
> Weight is not a problem. I don't recall which one I used but next time you
> come down to this end of the runway you can look at mine.
> George
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 7:05 PM
> To: RV list
> Subject: RV-List: Fwd: steel PC680 battery tray??
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England
>
> IIRC, the es-pc680 battery install kit for the -6/7/9 includes a steel
> battery tray. It would seem that a frame of aluminum angle would be
> strong enough& lighter. Does anyone know if steel is really needed, or
> am I wrong about the weight issue?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BRUCE GRAY <brucerv84us(at)hotmail.com> |
Wanted to ask for a friend in Belgium that is building an 8 if Doug Bell/Sr
. are still in the fork business. I know it has been some time since I've s
een discussions on this topic=2C 2 yrs. I think. The RV8 I believe will ope
rate off a grass field but I think he's looking for clearence as the rest o
f us have.
Any leads or info would be great so I could forward this to him. If the Bel
l's are out of the business is there any others doing aftermarkets right no
w?
TIA=2C
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
Super Slow Build
_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Callender" <tcallender(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine start! |
Tom, A great milestone!!! Congrats...Good job
Tom C
RV9 N793JT (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 11:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: engine start!
Yikes! Started the engine on N811WT yesterday (with a lot of
assistance from Roy Russell).
Left mag works good, Lightspeed Ignition may not be timed right, but
it does run on on it. The engine instruments all seem to work, the
alternator works, no obvious leaks.
Hope to be flying in a few weeks.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/19/10 17:49:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel Fork |
| From: | "N38CW" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net> |
Check post #234...
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=5361&page=24
and this post for another option...
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=5361
--------
Bill Settle
RV-8 Wings (Still)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282416#282416
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP
Wanted to ask for a friend in Belgium that is building an 8 if Doug Bell/Sr
. are still in the fork business. I know it has been some time since I've s
een discussions on this topic=2C 2 yrs. I think. The RV8 I believe will ope
rate off a grass field but I think he's looking for clearence as the rest o
f us have.
Any leads or info would be great so I could forward this to him. If the Bel
l's are out of the business is there any others doing aftermarkets right no
Bruce Gray
SNIP
I'm sure that Doug is still in business. He makes a very nice tailwheel. Your
RV will handle MUCH better with either Doug's tailwheel or one of ours.
Please be aware that we also make a great tailwheel of a slightly different style.
It will give the extra clearance needed and handles better than the RV tailwheel,
particularly when you've got a rear seat passenger. Our tailwheel fork
will retrofit any RV full swivel tailwheel in about 5 minutes. We've shipped
over 300 units all over the world. No problems. We have units in stock and
ready to ship today.
Our tailwheel fork is made from 4130 steel and is the same width and weight as
the RV fork for no extra drag or extra weight. Our tailwheel fork will fit a
Van's tailwheel pant and still retain the full swiveling capability. Others aren't
designed for that. Details are online or email us for more info.
We also have hundreds of other RV related items on our web store. Please check it out. www.flyboyaccessories.com
Vince Frazier
Flyboy Accessories
3963 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
1-888-8FLYBOY
1-888-835-9269
www.flyboyaccessories.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Carter" <dcarter(at)datarecall.net> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel fork-Bell fork still available |
>From 8 Feb 09, re Bell's tailwheel fork:
David,
Thanks for the reply,
One of the original guys who ordered and installed the fork did a pretty
thorough analysis of the change in aoa and the vision over the nose etc.
Dan Checkoway built a 7 and has a very good website that you can look at if
you have not already visited it.
Do a search on his site for Bell Tail wheel and you will find it.
Unless I hear back from you then, I will remove you from the order list. IF
you would like to stay on the list and simply have me check in with you in
several months.I can do that to.
Dan's site analysis http://www.rvproject.com/20060309.html
Doug
From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter11(at)clearwire.net] On Behalf Of David
Carter
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 11:47 PM
Subject: Re: Bell Tail wheel fork
Thanks, Doug. I think I'll pass on this batch. I really like the
increased clearance from lips.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Bell
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 10:04 PM
Subject: RE: Bell Tail wheel fork
David,
Dad's fork is a very quick and simple retro fit to Van's original fork that
is on the current kits he ships.
You simply remove your top nylon lock nut, and your steering chains or arm
and then drop your fork out of the tail spring adapter.
As you do this you hold the small locking square key and spring that are in
your current fork. You put those in Dad's, grease it and replace it in your
adapter.
It is a 10 minute retro fit.
Look over the attached pics and you will see pretty clear that it will
seriously increase your clearance for hanger rails, runway cracks, etc.
Let me know if you still want one in this shipment. If you would like to
wait awhile, I can check back with you as well.
Thanks
DOug
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 1:59 AM
Subject: RV-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 01/20/10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel fork-Bell fork still available |
Dan's web site has been gone for awhile. Don't know his reasons, maybe
too much traffic, he took it down, and got most of the archive sites to
pull it as well.
David Carter wrote:
>
>
>> From 8 Feb 09, re Bell's tailwheel fork:
>
> David,
>
> Thanks for the reply,
>
> One of the original guys who ordered and installed the fork did a
> pretty thorough analysis of the change in aoa and the vision over the
> nose etc.
>
> Dan Checkoway built a 7 and has a very good website that you can look
> at if you have not already visited it.
>
> Do a search on his site for Bell Tail wheel and you will find it.
>
> Unless I hear back from you then, I will remove you from the order
> list. IF you would like to stay on the list and simply have me check
> in with you in several months.I can do that to.
>
> Dan's site analysis http://www.rvproject.com/20060309.html
>
>
> Doug
>
>
> From: David Carter [mailto:dcarter11(at)clearwire.net] On Behalf Of David
> Carter
> Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 11:47 PM
> To: Doug Bell
> Subject: Re: Bell Tail wheel fork
>
> Thanks, Doug. I think I'll pass on this batch. I really like the
> increased clearance from lips.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Doug Bell
>
> To: David Carter
>
> Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 10:04 PM
>
> Subject: RE: Bell Tail wheel fork
>
> David,
>
> Dad's fork is a very quick and simple retro fit to Van's original fork
> that is on the current kits he ships.
>
> You simply remove your top nylon lock nut, and your steering chains or
> arm and then drop your fork out of the tail spring adapter.
>
> As you do this you hold the small locking square key and spring that
> are in your current fork. You put those in Dad's, grease it and
> replace it in your adapter.
>
> It is a 10 minute retro fit.
>
> Look over the attached pics and you will see pretty clear that it will
> seriously increase your clearance for hanger rails, runway cracks, etc.
>
> Let me know if you still want one in this shipment. If you would like
> to wait awhile, I can check back with you as well.
>
> Thanks
>
> DOug
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
> To: "RV-List Digest List"
> Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 1:59 AM
> Subject: RV-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 01/20/10
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel fork-Bell fork still available |
>
> One of the original guys who ordered and installed the fork did a pretty
> thorough analysis of the change in aoa and the vision over the nose etc.
>
> Dan Checkoway built a 7 and has a very good website that you can look at
> if you have not already visited it.
>
> Do a search on his site for Bell Tail wheel and you will find it.
Dan Checkoway's web site is no longer available.
Sam Buchanan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel fork-Bell fork still available |
On 1/21/2010 9:24 AM, Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
>>
>> One of the original guys who ordered and installed the fork did a pretty
>> thorough analysis of the change in aoa and the vision over the nose etc.
>>
>> Dan Checkoway built a 7 and has a very good website that you can look at
>> if you have not already visited it.
>>
>> Do a search on his site for Bell Tail wheel and you will find it.
>
>
> Dan Checkoway's web site is no longer available.
>
> Sam Buchanan
I might add that I installed a Bell tailwheel fork on my RV-6 shortly
after they came available and have been very pleased with it. The angle
of attack change is slight, but the increased ability over the Vans
design to handle abrupt changes in pavement (potholes) is considerable.
The fork fit the Vans mount perfectly with no mods necessary to get it
to function perfectly. I think it looks better, too. :-)
Highly recommended.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Alternator charging rate |
Is there any way to adjust the output of Van's (60Amp) alternator?
During flight my battery is reading 16.5 V and 14.8-15 V at rest.
I do not have any overvoltage protection and am worried that this might
"cook" the battery. Has anyone experienced this problem and what
remedies.
Trevor RV-7
Cape Town South Africa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator charging rate |
Might want to look at your voltage gage--at rest battery should be
about 12.6 (I don't know how you could get a battery to read higher
than this) and charging voltage about 13.8-14 volts--use another
voltage meter to check. Your alternator may be fine.
dave
On Jan 21, 2010, at 8:03 AM, Trevor wrote:
> Is there any way to adjust the output of Van's (60Amp) alternator?
> During flight my battery is reading 16.5 V and 14.8-15 V at rest.
> I do not have any overvoltage protection and am worried that this
> might "cook" the battery. Has anyone experienced this problem and
> what remedies.
>
> Trevor RV-7
> Cape Town South Africa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator charging rate |
Depending on what voltage regulator you have, it may be adjustable....
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 21, 2010, at 12:30 PM, David Cudney wrote:
> Might want to look at your voltage gage--at rest battery should be
> about 12.6 (I don't know how you could get a battery to read higher
> than this) and charging voltage about 13.8-14 volts--use another
> voltage meter to check. Your alternator may be fine.
>
> dave
>
>
> On Jan 21, 2010, at 8:03 AM, Trevor wrote:
>
>> Is there any way to adjust the output of Van's (60Amp) alternator?
>> During flight my battery is reading 16.5 V and 14.8-15 V at rest.
>> I do not have any overvoltage protection and am worried that this
>> might "cook" the battery. Has anyone experienced this problem and
>> what remedies.
>>
>> Trevor RV-7
>> Cape Town South Africa
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com> |
I too wonder why Dan shut his web site down, it was the best one out
there for detail and great info?
Mark Rose MR137 RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Besing <pbesing(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel fork-Bell fork still available |
Second Sam's recommendation..it's a metal work of art and all around smoother operation.
Paul Besing
________________________________
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc(at)hiwaay.net>
Sent: Thu, January 21, 2010 8:47:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel fork-Bell fork still available
On 1/21/2010 9:24 AM, Sam Buchanan wrote:
>
>
>>
>> One of the original guys who ordered and installed the fork did a pretty
>> thorough analysis of the change in aoa and the vision over the nose etc.
>>
>> Dan Checkoway built a 7 and has a very good website that you can look at
>> if you have not already visited it.
>>
>> Do a search on his site for Bell Tail wheel and you will find it.
>
>
> Dan Checkoway's web site is no longer available.
>
> Sam Buchanan
I might add that I installed a Bell tailwheel fork on my RV-6 shortly
after they came available and have been very pleased with it. The angle
of attack change is slight, but the increased ability over the Vans
design to handle abrupt changes in pavement (potholes) is considerable.
The fork fit the Vans mount perfectly with no mods necessary to get it
to function perfectly. I think it looks better, too. :-)
Highly recommended.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> |
He posted at the time he wasn't comfortable with people taking liberties
with his time. I think he also wanted to move on with other aspects of his
life.
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
av8er2fly(at)peoplepc.com
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 7:37 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wonder why?
I too wonder why Dan shut his web site down, it was the best one out there
for detail and great info?
Mark Rose MR137 RV8A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Hey RV'ers,
I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been working so hard on
the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine, Interior, Wiring, Avionics,
and canopy are all complete. Basically all I've got left is some fiberglass around
the windscreen, and a few other odds and ends and its time to move it out
to the hanger for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current pictures
just for fun.
Test flight in March...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin G3X EIS & Auto Pilot |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
As a heads up on the 20th Garmin announced the EIS component of the G3X
including sensors would be available in February. They further announced
an integrated Autopilot interface when mated to the TruTrak GX (not on
TruTrak's website that I can find). As Garmin says:
TruTrak GX Pilot autopilot has been designed to integrate seamlessly
with the G3X, will enjoy advanced autopilot features that can be
operated right from the PFD. Using controls and status indications
derived from Garmin's certified GFC 700, the G3X autopilot interface
implements sophisticated flight control modes including altitude
preselect and capture, heading hold, GPS navigation with turn
anticipation, and coupled VNAV descents. When used in conjunction with a
GNS 430W or 530W, the G3X can also fly coupled holding patterns,
procedure turns, and WAAS approaches.
Cool!
More basic info:
The basic G3X system is available at a starting street price of $9,995
and includes a GDU 370 glass display, GSU 73 ADAHRS and engine interface
unit, GMU 44 magnetometer and GTP 59 air temperature probe. The G3X
engine sensor kits for Lycoming, Continental, Rotax and Jabiru engines
are sold separately. A software update that adds EIS and autopilot
features is expected to be available for free from www.garmin.com in
February 2010.
Someone on the list was concerned that Garmin may not offer their ADS-b
package for the G3X. Garmin stated in their press release Wednesday:
"Regardless of the type of aircraft a customer operates, they should
never have to sacrifice features or services that enhance situational
awareness, improve safety of flight"
Ok, marketing 101 but as I always thought why would they turn down
$9,000 by not making the new ADS-b available on the G3X?
Robin
BTW, I guess I feel compelled to say I have no ties to Garmin other than
my G900x, 396, Nuvi 200 & 205, Golf GPS and a Garmin T-Shirt I
occasionally use when changing my Aeroshell.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Matt:
You should be very proud, nice work! I really like the interior look.
Dick Sipp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Great job Matt.. That plane is looking super. !!!!
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
m
Subject: RV-List: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8...
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 21:45:54 -0800
Hey RV'ers,
I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been working so
hard on the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine, Interior, Wirin
g, Avionics, and canopy are all complete. Basically all I've got left i
s some fiberglass around the windscreen, and a few other odds and ends a
nd its time to move it out to the hanger for final assembly! I thought
I'd share a few current pictures just for fun.
Test flight in March...?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
____________________________________________________________
Love Spell
Click here to light up your life with a love spell!
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wAAAAA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bergh" <dbergh(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Matt,
That is some beautiful work on everything - love the headrest display for
the PX.
Those seats look very nice as well-what's the story on them?
Dave Bergh
RV-6 Slowwwww build
Mtn Home, ID
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
And where's the steam gauges? ;)
Dave Bergh wrote:
>
> Matt,
>
> That is some beautiful work on everything - love the headrest display
> for the PX.
>
> Those seats look very nice as well-whats the story on them?
>
> Dave Bergh
>
> RV-6 Slowwwww build
>
> Mtn Home, ID
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
--
Scott
http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/
Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4
Gotta Fly or Gonna Die
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | New product introduction: TCW Technologies |
Fellow RV builders,
TCW Technologies, is pleased to introduce our newest product, Integrated
Back-up Battery System (IBBS).
IBBS is a complete back-up battery solution for powering critical
electronics such as EFIS, GPS, Autopilots and Engine monitors. The IBBS
product combines a rechargeable ni-mh battery, a smart charger circuit
and the transfer switch in a single enclosure that is easy to install
and only 1/2 the weight of a comparable lead acid battery.
The IBBS provides about 1 hour of back-up endurance for typical EFIS and
GPS systems; additionally, it includes surge suppression and allows
systems to operational before and during engine cranking.
The IBBS system is very easy to install and eliminates other field
installed components such as transfer contactors and diodes.
The IBBS product has been tested by Garmin for use with their G3x series
of products.
For all the details please visit our web site: www.tcwtech.com
Thanks,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC.
rv-10 40176
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
On 22 Jan 2010, at 00:45, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Hey RV'ers,
>
> I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been
> working so hard on the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine,
> Interior, Wiring, Avionics, and canopy are all complete. Basically
> all I've got left is some fiberglass around the windscreen, and a
> few other odds and ends and its time to move it out to the hanger
> for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current pictures just
> for fun.
>
> Test flight in March...?
Looks beautiful! The empty weight is likely to be a pretty scary
number though. Oh well.
What is the round thing on the outside of the left aft side of the
canopy skirt?
Good luck with all the final details. You'll be amazed at the number
of little things that crawl out of the woodwork as you shoot for the
first flight. There will be depressingly long periods when the list
of things to do keeps getting longer, even though you are completing
items at a furious rate.
--
Kevin Horton
RV-8
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
It is a combination of textured black power coat and a matching epoxy spray. The
parts that were removable and non-structural, I powder coated. Everything
else got the epoxy spray.
For the exact paint part numbers and types, contact Kraig Maas at Maas Brothers
Powder Coating. Kraig's super and really did an awesome job on all of the parts.
http://maasbrothersinc.com/
I dragged the whole fuselage down to his shop for spraying the inside:
The Trip There:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=94482&row=100
The Spraying:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=94686&row=83
The Trip Back:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=0&log=94818&row=76
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
At 09:19 AM 1/22/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>Matt,
>
>Beautiful work. I love the color you choose for your interior. Can you tell me
more about it? It appears to be a hammered look. I looked around your site
but couldn't find any info on it. I'm building a -7 and I'm about ready to start
painting my interior. I hope mine turns out as nice as yours.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tim Bolton
>Denver, NC
>
>RV-7 (#72696)
>www.TheRV7.com (site no longer updated, would rather work on the plane)
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To: ; ;
>Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 12:45 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8...
>
>
>>
>>Hey RV'ers,
>>
>>I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been working so hard
on the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine, Interior, Wiring, Avionics,
and canopy are all complete. Basically all I've got left is some fiberglass
around the windscreen, and a few other odds and ends and its time to move it
out to the hanger for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current pictures
just for fun.
>>
>>Test flight in March...?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
>>Final Assembly...
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
"Steam Gauges"? I don't need no 'stinking steam gauges!!! ;-)
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
At 03:26 PM 1/22/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>
>And where's the steam gauges? ;)
>
>
>Dave Bergh wrote:
>>
>>Matt,
>>
>>That is some beautiful work on everything - love the headrest display for the
PX.
>>
>>Those seats look very nice as well-whats the story on them?
>>
>>Dave Bergh
>>
>>RV-6 Slowwwww build
>>
>>Mtn Home, ID
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
At 12:20 PM 1/22/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>Matt,
>That is some beautiful work on everything - love the headrest display for the
PX.
>Those seats look very nice as well-whats the story on them?
>
>Dave Bergh
>RV-6 Slowwwww build
>Mtn Home, ID
The all-leather/Comferfoam seats are from Classic Aero ( http://www.classic.aero ). There was quite a bit of custom work on the front seat. I documented the whole process here:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/category.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=4395
Luke at Classic was really great to work with. They turned out some REALLY nice
stuff for me. I would highly recommend them!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
At 04:03 PM 1/22/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>
>On 22 Jan 2010, at 00:45, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>>Hey RV'ers,
>>
>>I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been
>>working so hard on the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine,
>>Interior, Wiring, Avionics, and canopy are all complete. Basically
>>all I've got left is some fiberglass around the windscreen, and a
>>few other odds and ends and its time to move it out to the hanger
>>for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current pictures just
>>for fun.
>>
>>Test flight in March...?
>
>Looks beautiful! The empty weight is likely to be a pretty scary
>number though. Oh well.
>
>What is the round thing on the outside of the left aft side of the
>canopy skirt?
>
>Good luck with all the final details. You'll be amazed at the number
>of little things that crawl out of the woodwork as you shoot for the
>first flight. There will be depressingly long periods when the list
>of things to do keeps getting longer, even though you are completing
>items at a furious rate.
>
>--
>Kevin Horton
>RV-8
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Yeah, I'm pretty scared to put it on the scale, too. I've got everything but the
kitchen sink in there. Good thing I got a big motor! :-)
The roundy thing on the left side panel is the custom canopy lock. It came out
really nice and really works good. Here's some documentation on the installation
(6 log entries):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=75155&row=223
Yeah, I'm sure there's going to be about 1000 more things to do before I fly.
My time estimates are usually always off by 100%. So, maybe not March, but more
like, May. Either way, still lots of great flying weather!! Maybe Van's Homecoming
this year!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Well, you'll get there!! I've put about 2200 hours in on the RV-8 project in about
the last 18 months... I started it about mid-June of 08. Its a QB.
I've been dreaming about flying my own RV for 21 years now since I first started
the RV-4 project way back in 1988!! I was one of the youngest people to be
building an RV back then. Now, not so much... ;-)
That first flight will definitely be a very special occasion...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
At 12:16 PM 1/22/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>--> RV7-List message posted by: Bruce Swayze
>
>Matt,
>
>I'm VERY impressed with all the interior installations. Great job!
>
>Now I realize more than ever just how much work I have ahead of me. Thanks for
the inspiration.
>
>At 09:45 PM 1/21/2010, you wrote:
>
>>Hey RV'ers,
>>
>>I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been working so hard
on the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the Engine, Interior, Wiring, Avionics,
and canopy are all complete. Basically all I've got left is some fiberglass
around the windscreen, and a few other odds and ends and its time to move it
out to the hanger for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current pictures
just for fun.
>>
>>Test flight in March...?
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>RV-8 #82880 N998RV
>>http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
>>Final Assembly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Trevor" <davist(at)xsinet.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternator charging rate |
Thanks to those who responded to my Voltage question. Turns out it was
a gauge problem - don't know how it went out but have managed to
re-adjust gauge. Reads 12.8V fully charged at the battery
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Kraus
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator charging rate
Depending on what voltage regulator you have, it may be adjustable....
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 21, 2010, at 12:30 PM, David Cudney wrote:
Might want to look at your voltage gage--at rest battery should be
about 12.6 (I don't know how you could get a battery to read higher than
this) and charging voltage about 13.8-14 volts--use another voltage
meter to check. Your alternator may be fine.
dave
On Jan 21, 2010, at 8:03 AM, Trevor wrote:
Is there any way to adjust the output of Van's (60Amp) alternator?
During flight my battery is reading 16.5 V and 14.8-15 V at rest.
I do not have any overvoltage protection and am worried that this
might "cook" the battery. Has anyone experienced this problem and what
remedies.
Trevor RV-7
Cape Town South Africa
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill shook <billshook2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Matte,
What are the internals of that lock made from?- Being a cabinet lock, if
I'm reading it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior use...meaning
it may rust when wet.- You can probably keep it lubricated enough to fun
ction but you may end up with a rust mark down your paint job if you get in
to some moisture a few times too many.- Have you gone over it with a magn
et?
Just curious.
Bill
-4 finally moving again
--- On Sat, 1/23/10, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8...
Date: Saturday, January 23, 2010, 1:47 AM
At 04:03 PM 1/22/2010- Friday, you wrote:
>
>On 22 Jan 2010, at 00:45, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>>Hey RV'ers,
>>
>>I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've been-
>>working so hard on the RV-8!- I'm happy to report that the Engine,-
>>Interior, Wiring, Avionics, and canopy are all complete.- Basically-
>>all I've got left is some fiberglass around the windscreen, and a-
>>few other odds and ends and its time to move it out to the hanger-
>>for final assembly!- I thought I'd share a few current pictures just-
>>for fun.
>>
>>Test flight in March...?
>
>Looks beautiful!- The empty weight is likely to be a pretty scary-
>number though.- Oh well.
>
>What is the round thing on the outside of the left aft side of the-
>canopy skirt?
>
>Good luck with all the final details.- You'll be amazed at the number-
>of little things that crawl out of the woodwork as you shoot for the-
>first flight.- There will be depressingly long periods when the list-
>of things to do keeps getting longer, even though you are completing-
>items at a furious rate.
>
>--
>Kevin Horton
>RV-8
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Yeah, I'm pretty scared to put it on the scale, too.- I've got everything
but the kitchen sink in there.- Good thing I got a big motor!- :-)
The roundy thing on the left side panel is the custom canopy lock.- It ca
me out really nice and really works good.- Here's some documentation on t
he installation (6 log entries):
- - - - http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsR
V8&project=638&category=2973&log=75155&row=223
Yeah, I'm sure there's going to be about 1000 more things to do before I fl
y.- My time estimates are usually always off by 100%.- So, maybe not Ma
rch, but more like, May.- Either way, still lots of great flying weather!
!- Maybe Van's Homecoming this year!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
Since I'm deep into wiring, there's some things I do to make life
easier. I thought I'd share them. Wiring up my intercom I used some 4
wire shielded for each position. Stripping the insulation off the
braided ground is tough. My 'hint' is to use a razor blade just pressed
on the insulation .... don't 'saw' .... and bend the wire to break the
insulation all the way around. Keeps the braid intact.
The next 'hint' is to use an insulator from a full-size alligator clip
to capture the insulation and pull it off. You might have to flex the
insulation to break it loose from the braid.
There's also a nice EAA video on dealing with shielded wire.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of Mr. |
RV-8...)
Well, it appears to genuine, imitation brass on the outside... ;-) You make a
good point, Bill. I'm pretty sure its probably just steel inside. But it sure
does work perfect at locking the canopy!!
I'm gonna just have to not fly in the rain. I'm really worried about the front
baggage door and the fact that I've got all of the electrical system (VP-200
CU) mounted right under the door. You know, I have to question the wisdom of
cutting a huge hole in the fuselage right on top of the fuselage there. There
might as well just be a big funnel on top to guide the rain in.
What are RV-8 flyers experiences with water coming in the front baggage door?
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
At 08:33 PM 1/23/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>Matte,
>
>What are the internals of that lock made from? Being a cabinet lock, if I'm reading
it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior use...meaning it may
rust when wet. You can probably keep it lubricated enough to function but you
may end up with a rust mark down your paint job if you get into some moisture
a few times too many. Have you gone over it with a magnet?
>
>Just curious.
>
>Bill
>-4 finally moving again
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status |
Of Mr. RV-8...)
I have ser. no. 2 RV8 and have flown approx. 2000 hours in every kind of
weather lncluding a lot of rain etc. It sits outside at OSH and other fly
ins during rain. I have never experienced any rain leaking inside of the
front baggage compartment.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
The fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 12:06 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Rain & RV-8 Front Baggage Door (was: Current Status Of
Mr. RV-8...)
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
> Well, it appears to genuine, imitation brass on the outside... ;-) You
> make a good point, Bill. I'm pretty sure its probably just steel inside.
> But it sure does work perfect at locking the canopy!!
>
> I'm gonna just have to not fly in the rain. I'm really worried about the
> front baggage door and the fact that I've got all of the electrical system
> (VP-200 CU) mounted right under the door. You know, I have to question
> the wisdom of cutting a huge hole in the fuselage right on top of the
> fuselage there. There might as well just be a big funnel on top to guide
> the rain in.
>
> What are RV-8 flyers experiences with water coming in the front baggage
> door?
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
> Final Assembly...
>
>
> At 08:33 PM 1/23/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>>Matte,
>>
>>What are the internals of that lock made from? Being a cabinet lock, if
>>I'm reading it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior
>>use...meaning it may rust when wet. You can probably keep it lubricated
>>enough to function but you may end up with a rust mark down your paint job
>>if you get into some moisture a few times too many. Have you gone over it
>>with a magnet?
>>
>>Just curious.
>>
>>Bill
>>-4 finally moving again
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Martin" <martin(at)gbonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8... |
Bill et al,
I own a hardware store and large lock and key business. The lock type
used on the baggage door is known in the industry as a Vending machine
lock. Any good hardware store or locksmith will have these locks. They
come in a variety of sizes and lengths. The cheap ones are made of die
cast material (avoid these) the good ones are usually brass (chrome or
nickel plated). You will require one with a 180 degree rotation and cam
that is capable of operating 2 rods simultaneously in oposite
directions into holes in the side of the baggage compartment. The locks
can be configured so that it is only possible to remove the key in the
locked position which will prevent flying with the door not secured.
Good luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: bill shook
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8...
Matte,
What are the internals of that lock made from? Being a cabinet
lock, if I'm reading it correctly, it's probably intended for Interior
use...meaning it may rust when wet. You can probably keep it lubricated
enough to function but you may end up with a rust mark down your paint
job if you get into some moisture a few times too many. Have you gone
over it with a magnet?
Just curious.
Bill
-4 finally moving again
--- On Sat, 1/23/10, Matt Dralle wrote:
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Current Status Of Mr. RV-8...
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, January 23, 2010, 1:47 AM
At 04:03 PM 1/22/2010 Friday, you wrote:
>
>On 22 Jan 2010, at 00:45, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>>
>>Hey RV'ers,
>>
>>I've been a little quiet lately on the List because I've
been
>>working so hard on the RV-8! I'm happy to report that the
Engine,
>>Interior, Wiring, Avionics, and canopy are all complete.
Basically
>>all I've got left is some fiberglass around the windscreen,
and a
>>few other odds and ends and its time to move it out to the
hanger
>>for final assembly! I thought I'd share a few current
pictures just
>>for fun.
>>
>>Test flight in March...?
>
>Looks beautiful! The empty weight is likely to be a pretty
scary
>number though. Oh well.
>
>What is the round thing on the outside of the left aft side
of the
>canopy skirt?
>
>Good luck with all the final details. You'll be amazed at
the number
>of little things that crawl out of the woodwork as you shoot
for the
>first flight. There will be depressingly long periods when
the list
>of things to do keeps getting longer, even though you are
completing
>items at a furious rate.
>
>--
>Kevin Horton
>RV-8
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Yeah, I'm pretty scared to put it on the scale, too. I've got
everything but the kitchen sink in there. Good thing I got a big motor!
:-)
The roundy thing on the left side panel is the custom canopy
lock. It came out really nice and really works good. Here's some
documentation on the installation (6 log entries):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=6
38&category=2973&log=75155&row=223
Yeah, I'm sure there's going to be about 1000 more things to
do before I fly. My time estimates are usually always off by 100%. So,
maybe not March, but more like, May. Either way, still lots of great
flying weather!! Maybe Van's Homecoming this year!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com Tons Of Construction Photos
Final Assembly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks- and I
was just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't worth it, I
will forgo installation.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
Tom,
If you are referring to the spring loaded aileron trim that installs under and
between the seats my answer is a resounding yes, it works great and I use it constantly.
I can't speak for how many have it installed but I can highly recommend
that you do install it.
It took me a few flight hours to get the tension set just right so that it's fairly
easy to adjust and doesn't creep, but I haven't had to touch the tension
adjustment for over four years and more than 600 hours
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 653 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 11:57:25 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: RV-List: aileron trim
Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks- and I was
just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't worth it, I will
forgo installation.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
I have a combination of Van's manual trim with a Ray Allen servo mounted in my
left wing. It actuates directly on the aileron bellcrank and works very well.
Accessible for maintenance through the stock panel.
Keep plugging....
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 - finished my first conditional and back to flying again.
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jan 26, 2010 2:57 PM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: aileron trim
>
>Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
>
>My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks- and I
>was just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't worth it, I
>will forgo installation.
>
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
It works well and is very much worth it.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (525 hrs)
RV-10 (systems install)
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 2:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: aileron trim
Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks-
and I was just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't
worth it, I will forgo installation.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Utsey" <randy(at)djdist.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
Tom, you will use this a lot. My RV-7 needs aileron trim depending on
if I am solo or with a co-pilot and also as you burn fuel from side to
side.
Randy Utsey
D.J. Distributing Co.
1429 Bryant St.
Charlotte, NC 28208
800-585-4126
Please note new e-mail address!
randy(at)djdist.com
www.djdist.com
----- Original Message -----
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron trim
Tom,
If you are referring to the spring loaded aileron trim that installs
under and between the seats my answer is a resounding yes, it works
great and I use it constantly. I can't speak for how many have it
installed but I can highly recommend that you do install it.
It took me a few flight hours to get the tension set just right so
that it's fairly easy to adjust and doesn't creep, but I haven't had to
touch the tension adjustment for over four years and more than 600 hours
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 653 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas sargent" <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
To: "rv-list"
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 11:57:25 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada
Pacific
Subject: RV-List: aileron trim
Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks-
and I was just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't
worth it, I will forgo installation.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
Hi Tom,
I installed my Van's aileron trim AFTER my first few flights to first
deal with the possible heavy wing and avoid the trim system from
confusing that. And, after dealing with the permanent rudder trim. Once
those adjustments were made, I installed the aileron trim. It is simple
and worked well for me. It mainly served to adjust for fuel burn
unbalance. By alternating tanks periodically, I kept that balance pretty
well but used the aileron trim when needed for finer tuning. I consider
it was very worthwhile.
Good luck.
Richard Dudley
RV-6A sold
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 2:57 PM
Subject: RV-List: aileron trim
Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks-
and I was just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't
worth it, I will forgo installation.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jason Edwards <flyboyedwards(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
Sarg,
I bought my 4 flying. When I saw the spring loaded trim, I kinda giggled...
........then I tried it...WOW. Much like the rest of Van's ingenious inventi
ons........this one is great!
Very simple, very effective.
Jason Edwards
Flying RV-4 "Dream Chaser"
Richland Center, WI.
--- On Tue, 1/26/10, thomas sargent wrote:
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: aileron trim
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 2010, 1:57 PM
Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?-
My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks- and I
was just about to install it.- If the consensus is that it isn't worth i
t, I will forgo installation.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dane Sheahen <fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for a Hangar Naples Florida |
I am going to Naples Florida for the month of March and wondering if anybody had
any extra hangar space for a RV8. Or maybe you might know someone at Naples
APF or at Marco Island airport.
Please call or write
Dane Sheahen
847-373-0028
fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Tom:
I installed electric aileron trim in my RV-7A. Yes - it does work and yes I
would install it again. I find it useful trimming for imbalances due to
differences in fuel quantities. On the one occasion when I've used my tip
tanks I burned off the four gallons in the left tip tank, and with four
gallons in the right tip tank there was a noticeable tendency for the right
wing to drop (4 gals X 6 lbs = 24 lbs). It trimmed out easily. This is not
so much of an issue when you're using only the main tanks.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A N307TB
88 hours since first flight on 8/4/09
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 2:57 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
> Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
>
> My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks- and I
> was just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't worth it, I
> will forgo installation.
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | davist(at)xsinet.co.za |
Hi Tom
I installed aileron trims on both my RV-6 as well as my RV-7. They
definetely are a must, however Van's changed the orientation of the
installation from the -6 to the -7 and I found the position, orientation
(lever points to which wing you want lowered) and feel to the -6 was far
better than what is on the plans for the -7. The good news is that it is
easy to change - just invert it and move it higher up on the rib, taking
care to check for freedom of movement, both for controls and trim.
Chances are if you are building the -6 the drawings will still be the old
ones but if you are only ordering it now, I suppose you will be getting
the new drawings.
Trevor RV-7
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 2:57 PM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: aileron trim
>
>
> Does the Van's aileron trim work? Do most planes have it installed?
>
> My plane isn't flying yet - I hope to have 1st flight in a few weeks- and
> I was just about to install it. If the consensus is that it isn't worth
> it, I will forgo installation.
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, pretty close to flying
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for all the responses on this. Looks like the aileron trim is one of
the things every one agrees on. I'll start installing it tonight.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | aileron trim - a NO vote |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
Ok, I will chime in. I bought the trim for my RV-6 and installed it but
have long since removed it. First it was very difficult to position
correctly. following the placement in the directions caused an interference
with the control column. I found another place a couple of inches away that
would not cause the same interference... but it caused a different
interference. I finally got it to work in a third location. But even
there, it makes the seat pans more difficult the remove and install. More
importantly, it takes up space that I step on to get in and out of the plane
without stepping on the seats (the area between the seats). That is also
the area that I like to keep cell phones and cameras and sandwiches while in
flight. The trim handle could easily tear the upholstery if not careful, is
a little awkward to reach if there is a bunch of stuff there, and can be
bumped by loose gear or seats.
So I removed mine and found that it is not really needed at all, I am sorry
that I now have those 3 holes in my seat pans. Any trim inbalance is
so lightly corrected by hand that it is almost not noticeable. After wing
incidence, fuel balance is the single largest factor in affecting trim and
it is constantly changing. So if you want the plane to fly straight with
hands off, you will need to make constant adjustments to the aileron trim.
Even then, you won't be flying straight for more than a minute BEST case.
Instead, I just balance my fuel enough to get it pretty close and use the
single axis autopilot for hands off flight. I use the Trio, works great and
will keep you on heading all day even if the fuel load is out of balance.
If you are installing an autopilot (which IMHO is a must for IFR and highly
recommended even in a VFR aircraft) then forget about the aileron trim.
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 7:52 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
> Thanks for all the responses on this. Looks like the aileron trim is one
> of the things every one agrees on. I'll start installing it tonight.
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim - a NO vote |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
I second Dave's comments. Roll trim requirements do change significantly
with passenger weight and fuel burn, but the stick forces needed are light.
If it were an either-or decision, the Trio autopilot would win hands-down
as the better fix. I have the electric two-axis trim - and glad it's there,
but the single axis autopilot will all but negate any need for roll trim.
Just keep the roll moment roughly balanced with fuel burn and you're good
to go, with or without the A/P.
Having said that, I find the RV much more attention-demanding in pitch than
in roll, such that the altitude hold is more help to me than the roll-axis
A/P. I have both Trio units, but the altitude hold is the bigger labor
saver.
-Bill B. RV-6A
On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 12:41 PM, David Leonard wrote:
> Ok, I will chime in. I bought the trim for my RV-6 and installed it but
> have long since removed it. First it was very difficult to position
> correctly. following the placement in the directions caused an interference
> with the control column. I found another place a couple of inches away that
> would not cause the same interference... but it caused a different
> interference. I finally got it to work in a third location. But even
> there, it makes the seat pans more difficult the remove and install. More
> importantly, it takes up space that I step on to get in and out of the plane
> without stepping on the seats (the area between the seats). That is also
> the area that I like to keep cell phones and cameras and sandwiches while in
> flight. The trim handle could easily tear the upholstery if not careful, is
> a little awkward to reach if there is a bunch of stuff there, and can be
> bumped by loose gear or seats.
>
> So I removed mine and found that it is not really needed at all, I am sorry
> that I now have those 3 holes in my seat pans. Any trim inbalance is
> so lightly corrected by hand that it is almost not noticeable. After wing
> incidence, fuel balance is the single largest factor in affecting trim and
> it is constantly changing. So if you want the plane to fly straight with
> hands off, you will need to make constant adjustments to the aileron trim.
> Even then, you won't be flying straight for more than a minute BEST case.
>
> Instead, I just balance my fuel enough to get it pretty close and use the
> single axis autopilot for hands off flight. I use the Trio, works great and
> will keep you on heading all day even if the fuel load is out of balance.
> If you are installing an autopilot (which IMHO is a must for IFR and highly
> recommended even in a VFR aircraft) then forget about the aileron trim.
>
> David Leonard
>
> Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
> http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
> http://RotaryRoster.net
>
> On Wed, Jan 27, 2010 at 7:52 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the responses on this. Looks like the aileron trim is one
>> of the things every one agrees on. I'll start installing it tonight.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
>>
>> *
>>
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> ttp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pitch vs. roll, was: aileron trim - a NO vote |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
> Having said that, I find the RV much more attention-demanding in pitch than
> in roll, such that the altitude hold is more help to me than the roll-axis
> A/P. I have both Trio units, but the altitude hold is the bigger labor
> saver.
>
> -Bill B. RV-6A
>
Interesting, I think you are right "attention-demanding", but let me expand
for the benefit of those anxiously awaiting the first flights of their RVs
IMHO, the 'trimability' is much better in pitch than in roll, but holding
altitude is much more attention-demanding. Let me explain.
With regard to flight in VMC, VFR:
Using the stock manual pitch trim, it is fairly easy to trim to pretty much
level flight - enough to go several minutes or more without more than a
couple hundred feet of altitude change. With the stock manual aileron trim,
several minutes of hands off flight will have you well away from desired
heading.
However, while hand flying it is easy to unconsciously maintain roll
attitude and rough heading - you don't think about it at all. Maintaining
altitude, depending on how close you want to stick to your target, requires
more or less constant vigilance. It is very easy for an RV to drift up or
down a couple hundred feet in a short period of time with very few sensory
cues other than reference to the altimeter. i.e. while pitch variations are
easier to trim out, but they are more difficult to unconsciously detect. I
think this is what Bill means by attention-demanding.
The situation changes with hand flying in IMC:
Now you remove the obvious visual cues of the horizon and IMHO roll attitude
and heading become significantly more attention demanding than than pitch
attitude and altitude. Perhaps that is because I removed my aileron trim
long before I ever flew my RV in IMC so I am comparing a system with trim,
to one without trim.
Anyway, I hope the discussion helped you to make the aileron trim decision..
And Hmmm, maybe it is time for me to think about bucking up for that
altitude hold... :-)
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fly RV6" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
Well not everyone. I was going to post but it looked like I was to be
the odd man out. If I had it to do again, I wouldn=99t bother
since I never use it and see no point it is just complexity in that
tight area I don=99t need. Maybe I am a sloppy flier but my plane
seem to be level regardless. Of course I manage my fuel beginning from
the left tank and then switch every 30 minutes. I can=99t tell
any difference with two in the plane or alone. Sounds like a best bet
to install for you though since so many others agree it is worth it.
I just thought I would throw that out cause I am sure it will start some
conversation on here. I hold the control stick between two fingers near
my legs once at a safe altitude and find very fine control with light
input that way. Maybe I just correct for it; don=99t know.
Tim
RV-6
N616TB
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron trim
Thanks for all the responses on this. Looks like the aileron trim is
one of the things every one agrees on. I'll start installing it
tonight.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron trim |
I agree with you Tim. I have it but rarely use it because of usually using
the AP when flying in a straight line to a destination.
Dale
RV6A
N118DE
----- Original Message -----
From: Fly RV6
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 5:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: aileron trim
Well not everyone. I was going to post but it looked like I was to be th
e odd man out. If I had it to do again, I wouldn=99t bother since I
never use it and see no point it is just complexity in that tight area I do
n=99t need. Maybe I am a sloppy flier but my plane seem to be level
regardless. Of course I manage my fuel beginning from the left tank and th
en switch every 30 minutes. I can=99t tell any difference with two i
n the plane or alone. Sounds like a best bet to install for you though sin
ce so many others agree it is worth it.
I just thought I would throw that out cause I am sure it will start some
conversation on here. I hold the control stick between two fingers near my
legs once at a safe altitude and find very fine control with light input t
hat way. Maybe I just correct for it; don=99t know.
Tim
RV-6
N616TB
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 9:53 AM
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron trim
Thanks for all the responses on this. Looks like the aileron trim is one
of the things every one agrees on. I'll start installing it tonight.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, final assembly.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp
://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | roll trim/aileron trim |
Hi gang,
It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would
like to add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim
control on the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the
left to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in
magnitude as the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much
aileron pinching I did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right
more often than to the left. Now, this was not always the case. My
first flight across the continent never showed a trim problem. After
this 2400 mile trip (16 flying hours over two days) someone pointed
out that my left main gear leg fairing was split open at the back.
Signs of blood and guts, as well as a small dent in the leading edge
of the fairing pointed to a small bird strike. A relatively easy
repair was completed and the fairing was re-installed. That's when
the problem started. But I didn't realize I had a problem for several
months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my fairing repair as
the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never really aligned
the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual Inspection, my
mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old
string trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't
match the crud marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The
plane was now a much more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few
experiments. I twisted the fairing a little bit, took it back into
the air. Twisted it past center in the other direction, took it into
the air. The results were that a small twist or misalignment was like
having an off-center rudder under the engine. Boy, does this affect
roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll trim for good ( It did work
well, but I was in new territory with my aileron misaligned). So, my
point is: for those of you just into your first flights, check your
fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs and squeezing ailerons.
P.S.
I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the
shit hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My
feeling is that all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on
serious trips - even if you never turn it on. When turned off, I
hardly notice my "well balanced" RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: roll trim/aileron trim |
First flighter,
Here is another suggestion I learned from somewhere or someone before my
first flight of my RV-6A. Make your first flight and other early flights
WITHOUT your gear leg fairings or wheel fairings. Do your rudder trim
adjustments and heavy wing adjustments BEFORE mounting your leg or wheel
farinigs or installing your aileron trim. Then, you will know what effects
result from leg or wheel fairings. You will also learn how much airspeed
improvement you get from those fairings. My results were like 20 mph gain
(per 3 heading gps measurements) after mounting those fairings.
Happy first flights!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6A
---- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
> Hi gang,
>
> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like to
> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>
> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control on
> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>
> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the left
> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as
> the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I
> did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the
> left. Now, this was not always the case. My first flight across the
> continent never showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16
> flying hours over two days) someone pointed out that my left main gear leg
> fairing was split open at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as a
> small dent in the leading edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird
> strike. A relatively easy repair was completed and the fairing was
> re-installed. That's when the problem started. But I didn't realize I had
> a problem for several months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my
> fairing repair as the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never
> really aligned the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual Inspection,
> my mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old string
> trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't match the crud
> marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The plane was now a much
> more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few experiments. I twisted the
> fairing a little bit, took it back into the air. Twisted it past center in
> the other direction, took it into the air. The results were that a small
> twist or misalignment was like having an off-center rudder under the
> engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll trim
> for good ( It did work well, but I was in new territory with my aileron
> misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you just into your first
> flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs
> and squeezing ailerons.
>
> P.S.
> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is that
> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if
> you never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well balanced"
> RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | In-flight Entertainment & LCD Screens... |
Dear listers,
I've received quite a few emails asking about my entertainment installation in
the RV-8 project and specifically the components I used and how I installed them.
The links and text below documents the selection and process pretty well
and so I thought I'd pass it along to the Lists.
The front headrest with the monitor in it is the standard headrest I got from Classic
Aero for use with the Aviator seats. I made some serious modifications
to it however, and then sent it back to them for leather upholstering. It came
out really nice and isn't too heavy. I documented the whole process in my
blog in extreme detail here:
Initial installation using the white plastic shells (10 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73410&row=91
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73411&row=90
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73412&row=89
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73413&row=88
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73414&row=87
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73415&row=86
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73415&row=86
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73416&row=85
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73417&row=84
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=73418&row=83
Installation redo with new and significantly improved black shells (5 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77846&row=48
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77847&row=47
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77848&row=46
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77849&row=45
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77850&row=44
Final installation with Leather upholstery completed (4 logs):
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=4395&log=86106&row=5
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=4395&log=86107&row=4
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'427&row=2
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'427&row=2
On the main instrument panel, I'm using a Kenwood DNX8120 entertainment system
with a 7" LCD touch screen. The DNX8120 has been replaced by the DNX9140 which
is very similar:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=67178&row=159
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/eXcelon/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/DNX9140
The rear screen is slaved to the DNX8120 though an AV controller that comes with
the screen. The rear LCD screen is also 7", but not a touch screen. Its a
Kenwood model number LZ-702IR:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/Mobile_Video/LZ-702IR
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7134_Kenwood+LZ-702IR.html
The rear view cam is also a Kenwood unit and integrates with the DNX very nicely:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/eXcelon/Mobile_Video_n_Navigation/CCD-2000
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com
Finishing up...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Re: roll trim/aileron trim |
Louis, That is a great post. Thanks for give us another side to the story
of roll trim/aileron trim/roll yaw. I apprecate your knowledge.
Jim
RV9a building, MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
> Hi gang,
>
> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like to
> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>
> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control on
> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>
> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the left
> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as
> the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I
> did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the
> left. Now, this was not always the case. My first flight across the
> continent never showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16
> flying hours over two days) someone pointed out that my left main gear leg
> fairing was split open at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as a
> small dent in the leading edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird
> strike. A relatively easy repair was completed and the fairing was
> re-installed. That's when the problem started. But I didn't realize I had
> a problem for several months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my
> fairing repair as the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never
> really aligned the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual Inspection,
> my mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old string
> trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't match the crud
> marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The plane was now a much
> more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few experiments. I twisted the
> fairing a little bit, took it back into the air. Twisted it past center in
> the other direction, took it into the air. The results were that a small
> twist or misalignment was like having an off-center rudder under the
> engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll trim
> for good ( It did work well, but I was in new territory with my aileron
> misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you just into your first
> flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs
> and squeezing ailerons.
>
> P.S.
> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is that
> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if
> you never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well balanced"
> RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwpetrus(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/28/2010 9:55:39 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jfogarty(at)tds.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc."
Louis, That is a great post. Thanks for give us another side to the
story
of roll trim/aileron trim/roll yaw. I apprecate your knowledge.
Jim
RV9a building, MN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
> Hi gang,
>
> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like
to
> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>
> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control
on
> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>
> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the
left
> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as
> the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I
> did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the
> left. Now, this was not always the case. My first flight across the
> continent never showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16
> flying hours over two days) someone pointed out that my left main gear
leg
> fairing was split open at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as
a
> small dent in the leading edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird
> strike. A relatively easy repair was completed and the fairing was
> re-installed. That's when the problem started. But I didn't realize I
had
> a problem for several months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my
> fairing repair as the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never
> really aligned the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual
Inspection,
> my mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old
string
> trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't match the
crud
> marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The plane was now a
much
> more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few experiments. I twisted
the
> fairing a little bit, took it back into the air. Twisted it past center
in
> the other direction, took it into the air. The results were that a small
> twist or misalignment was like having an off-center rudder under the
> engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll
trim
> for good ( It did work well, but I was in new territory with my aileron
> misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you just into your first
> flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs
> and squeezing ailerons.
>
> P.S.
> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is
that
> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if
> you never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well
balanced"
> RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com> |
| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the
top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts
to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I
have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined
hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use
a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've
considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge
segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a
bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the
pin stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
It's been 12 years since the build, but I recall sanding the hinge pins for
a long time before they slid in easily enough - 400, 600 grit carbide paper
and then emery cloth - lengthwise, by hand. No need to chuck it in a lathe
and maintain perfect roundness - probably a good way to lose a body part. I
think I crowned the openings of some of the troublesome hinge eyes with a
small abrasive Dremel burr, too.
Bill B
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
> and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
> each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
> electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
> hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
> drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
> running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a
> bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
> stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: roll trim/aileron trim |
| From: | Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com> |
Good Morning All:
Nice to be discussing RV issues.
First flight of my RV-7A, was 8/4/09. The tach went over 90 hours
yesterday. Thus far all "issues" have been minor and easily dealth with.
If you're a "newbie" to homebuilding the most important thing before you
even begin is to find yourself a good mentor, someone who has "been there -
done that." I was lucky - I got the best. (I'm doubly lucky I guess - I
have a wife who loves to fly in small airplanes.)
Re aileron trim - a comment based entirely on my own experience.
1. I have electric aileron trim - it's not expensive; installation is easy;
it does not get in the way; it's not heavy; it works. Yes - I'd do it
again.
2. Do not install wheel pants and gear leg fairings prior to first flight,
it will only complicate things.
3. Without the pants and fairings installed, I had a heavy left wing,
attributable, I think, to a barely noticeable (You can feel it with your
fingers more than you can see it.) airfoil difference between the two wings.
Solution: I bonded a plastic "rudder trim tab," part # 9883, $13.50, from
Avery Tools, to the bottom, outboard trailing edge of the right aileron. It
moves the right aileron up ever so slightly (You can't even see the
difference in flight.), keeping the right wing down where it belongs.
Problem solved.
4. I optimized my plane for cross-country flying and installed Jon
Johanssen, 9.5 gal tip tanks. I've only used them once so far but noticed
that with four gallons burned off out of one tank there was a noticeable
tendency for the plane to dip toward the opposite wing; a 24 lb weight
differential on the end of a long lever does have an effect. It trimmed out
easily with the aileron trim.
5. I have a Grand Rapids Technology single AHARS, dual screen system, an all
Garmin avionics stack (The 480 is on top - (not user friendly but, when you
learn how to use it, the capablity is phenomenal.)) and a Tru Trak a/p
slaved to the Garmin. Virtually all my flights since the 40 test hours were
flown off have been x/c, and, with an RV - an a/p makes all the difference
in the world on a long flight. I flew several of my first x/c flights with
the a/p turned off (Yes - I'm a slow learner.) and found, once I learned how
to use it, that the a/p makes all the difference in the world in terms of
fatigue, ease of navigation, enjoyment, communication, and, most
importantly, safety. (I'm instrument rated (not current at the moment) and
intend to use this airplane for instrument flying - some might disagree but,
I feel an a/p is essential with an RV in the clouds.)
6. I used the string method when lining up my leg fairings and wheel pants.
I put the main gear fairings on first and noticed the ball was a bit out of
the cage. I had to adjust them several times, using the eyeball method, with
test flights in between, before getting it right. The nose gear fairing was
no problem. The wheel pants and upper intersection fairings took me three
or four days to install but came out fine. Take your time and measure
everything repeatedly. (Dad's old plumb-bob came in handy. (Think about
that folks - probably the oldest precision instrument on the planet being
used to build an airplane)).
7. I Typically cruise at 2300 RPM, leaned to 50 degrees LOP. The
difference in airspeed at that power setting w/ vs w/o fairings and pants is
between 14 and 16 knots.
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A, N307TB, Spero II
90 hours since 8/4/09
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 10:52 AM, Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc.
wrote:
>
>
> Louis, That is a great post. Thanks for give us another side to the story
> of roll trim/aileron trim/roll yaw. I apprecate your knowledge.
>
> Jim
> RV9a building, MN
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 6:21 PM
> Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
>
>>
>> Hi gang,
>>
>> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like to
>> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>>
>> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control on
>> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>>
>> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the left
>> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as the
>> right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I did, my
>> honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the left. Now,
>> this was not always the case. My first flight across the continent never
>> showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16 flying hours over two
>> days) someone pointed out that my left main gear leg fairing was split open
>> at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as a small dent in the leading
>> edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird strike. A relatively easy repair
>> was completed and the fairing was re-installed. That's when the problem
>> started. But I didn't realize I had a problem for several months. When I
>> did, I certainly didn't think of my fairing repair as the culprit!! Where
>> is this all going? Well, I never really aligned the fairing perfectly, and
>> after my first Anual Inspection, my mechanic asked me how to align the
>> fairings. Well I did the old string trick, and noticed that the tabs on the
>> left fairing didn't match the crud marks left on the leg prior to removal.
>> Voila! The plane was now a much more balanced machine. So I decided to do a
>> few experiments. I twisted the fairing a little bit, took it back into the
>> air. Twisted it past center in the other direction, took it into the air.
>> The results were that a small twist or misalignment was like having an
>> off-center rudder under the engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance.
>> I removed Van's roll trim for good ( It did work well, but I was in new
>> territory with my aileron misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you
>> just into your first flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending
>> rudder trim tabs and squeezing ailerons.
>>
>> P.S.
>> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
>> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is that
>> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if you
>> never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well balanced" RV-4
>> when the tank are uneven.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Louis I Willig
>> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
>> Penn Valley, PA 19072
>> 610 668-4964
>> RV-4, N180PF
>> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Bell" <glennbell(at)cablelynx.com> |
| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Why don't you try putting some coarse valve lapping compound on each of the
eyes and running the .090 through them with a drill with the halves in
position.say a minute or so.then clean all the coarse off .which will take a
while .then repeat with fine compound.get hinges and .090 good and clean.and
lube everything and see if that doesn't help.I found that it took very very
little misalignement to cause a big problem.plus it cleaned out the epoxy
that somehow found its way onto the hinges.
The coarse alone leaves a matte finish and they will still be a little
stiff..the fine polishes it up.I suspect that a third reaming with rubbing
compound would make them slicker but I didn't find that to be necessary.
I haven't heard of anyone else doing this so there may be some reason not
to..but I didn't see anything wrong with it..
Of course I wouldn't do this untl I was absolutely sure/positive/convinced
that the eyes were as aligned as I could get them.
I never considered this to be a short cut.just the final finish to eliminate
"high spots"
ner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe & Jan Connell
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 11:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit?
If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Glenn Bell" <glennbell(at)cablelynx.com> |
| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Just add to my previous post that I also crowned them with my dremel and the
carbide burr that I bought at OSH this year..i just had to get that in..
Btw the compound reduced the pin dia by less than .002
Bell
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Boyd
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 1:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
It's been 12 years since the build, but I recall sanding the hinge pins for
a long time before they slid in easily enough - 400, 600 grit carbide paper
and then emery cloth - lengthwise, by hand. No need to chuck it in a lathe
and maintain perfect roundness - probably a good way to lose a body part. I
think I crowned the openings of some of the troublesome hinge eyes with a
small abrasive Dremel burr, too.
Bill B
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell
wrote:
Gentlemen,
My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
hoped it would loosen a bit.
I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a bit?
If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
stock?
More suggestions are welcome...
Joe Connell
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Is this a flying plane or are you still building? If you are still
building and you can get it together, I would not do anything until
you have flown the plane for a good month or so. The heat cycles on
the cowl fiberglass really help align things and it makes the pins
much easier to remove. I had the same issue on my -4 and a -10 and
after a few flights I was able to get them in and out by hand.
YMMV
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 28, 2010, at 12:33 PM, "Joe & Jan Connell" wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join
> the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive
> efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable
> binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out
> of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still
> use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've
> considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the
> hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things
> loosened a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you
> able to obtain the pin stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fly RV6" <n616tb(at)btsapps.com> |
| Subject: | roll trim/aileron trim |
I agree. I flew for months without the leg or wheel fairings. Finally got
all the minor tweaks to the ailerons and rudder tab to get the plane flying
straight and level. OK, that only took a few flights but it took longer to
really have a feel for the feel and speed of the plane. Then when putting
the wheel fairings and gear fairings on I knew for sure when they were
straight. Improvement in speed but no other adverse affect. I can fly
straight and level without the auto pilot but I rarely go anywhere without
using it.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Dudley
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
First flighter,
Here is another suggestion I learned from somewhere or someone before my
first flight of my RV-6A. Make your first flight and other early flights
WITHOUT your gear leg fairings or wheel fairings. Do your rudder trim
adjustments and heavy wing adjustments BEFORE mounting your leg or wheel
farinigs or installing your aileron trim. Then, you will know what effects
result from leg or wheel fairings. You will also learn how much airspeed
improvement you get from those fairings. My results were like 20 mph gain
(per 3 heading gps measurements) after mounting those fairings.
Happy first flights!!
Richard Dudley
RV-6A
---- Original Message -----
From: "Louis Willig" <larywil(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: roll trim/aileron trim
>
> Hi gang,
>
> It's good to see some real RV-list questions and answers. I would like to
> add a very relevant piece of info to this subject.
>
> Years ago, there were numerous discussions regarding roll trim control on
> the RV series. I learned a lot ( and forgot some of it)
>
> On my second RV-4, I found that I was constantly pushing over to the left
> to compensate for a heavy wing. This, of course changed in magnitude as
> the right tank was depleted. But, no matter how much aileron pinching I
> did, my honey always wanted to lean to the right more often than to the
> left. Now, this was not always the case. My first flight across the
> continent never showed a trim problem. After this 2400 mile trip (16
> flying hours over two days) someone pointed out that my left main gear leg
> fairing was split open at the back. Signs of blood and guts, as well as a
> small dent in the leading edge of the fairing pointed to a small bird
> strike. A relatively easy repair was completed and the fairing was
> re-installed. That's when the problem started. But I didn't realize I had
> a problem for several months. When I did, I certainly didn't think of my
> fairing repair as the culprit!! Where is this all going? Well, I never
> really aligned the fairing perfectly, and after my first Anual Inspection,
> my mechanic asked me how to align the fairings. Well I did the old string
> trick, and noticed that the tabs on the left fairing didn't match the crud
> marks left on the leg prior to removal. Voila! The plane was now a much
> more balanced machine. So I decided to do a few experiments. I twisted the
> fairing a little bit, took it back into the air. Twisted it past center in
> the other direction, took it into the air. The results were that a small
> twist or misalignment was like having an off-center rudder under the
> engine. Boy, does this affect roll/yaw balance. I removed Van's roll trim
> for good ( It did work well, but I was in new territory with my aileron
> misaligned). So, my point is: for those of you just into your first
> flights, check your fairings' alignment before bending rudder trim tabs
> and squeezing ailerons.
>
> P.S.
> I added a Digitrak a few months later to give me a break (when the shit
> hits the fan), but not to control a bad roll condition. My feeling is that
> all RV's should have an A/P if you are going on serious trips - even if
> you never turn it on. When turned off, I hardly notice my "well balanced"
> RV-4 when the tank are uneven.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <Deerlake(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Joe,
If you don't mind a "blast from the past" (retired RV builder), I like
the idea of reducing the diameter and smoothing the hinge pin. My main
interest was always to make sure the aluminum hinge material lasted as
long as possible because it would be such a mess to replace. You can
always buy some new hinge pin with the cad plating intact if things get
sloppy. That never happened on my RV6 in 475 hours.
On my RV6 and the ones I helped others build, I chucked the hinge pin in
an air drill, removed all of the cad plating, polished with red and gray
Scotchbrite, degreased the pins and lubed with "MolyCoat "G" a
*Molybdenum disulfide* product---very lightly,less than a "match head's"
worth for both pins. I then ran the pin in with a drill to transfer the
moly to the aluminum loops. I thought this would be much better than
oil as having oil drain on a surface to be painted would be bad. Avoid
silicon for the same reason. After a few runs with the drill, I was
able to easily install and remove the pins by hand. (This is with RV6's
only. I have no experience with the nine.)
Make sure you haven't grabbed the pins anywhere along the length and
raised "burrs" as this will do a job on the interior of the soft
aluminum hinge loops.
Although I still read the list, I don't post because I haven't kept up
on the "latest & greatest". I think I've helped on around 8 or 9 RVs
and a couple of Glastars, the latest being a RV6A over in Spearfish,
S.D. which was finished a year or so ago.
Bob Skinner
Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join
> the top and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive
> efforts to align each segment of the hinges there is considerable
> binding. I have to use an electric drill to move the pin in and out
> of the combined hinge. I had hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still
> use a drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've
> considered running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the
> hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened
> a bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain
> the pin stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
| From: | Peter Laurence <peterlaurence6(at)gmail.com> |
I had the same problem on my 9A even though I was very careful in the
installation. I took each hinge segment and opened them slightly where need.
It took a while but it worked out well.
Peter
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Joe & Jan Connell wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> My RV-9A uses Van's standard hinges with the .090 hinge pin to join the top
> and bottom halves of the engine cowling. Despite extensive efforts to align
> each segment of the hinges there is considerable binding. I have to use an
> electric drill to move the pin in and out of the combined hinge. I had
> hoped it would loosen a bit.
>
> I'm stalemated on how to anchor the end of the pin when I must still use a
> drill to remove the hinge pin. I've even used Boelube. I've considered
> running a 12" #40 drill (.098) through both ends of the hinge segments.
>
> Has anyone used a hinge pin small than the .090 until things loosened a
> bit? If so, what size did you use and where were you able to obtain the pin
> stock?
>
> More suggestions are welcome...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which |
model?
| From: | J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com> |
Brett,
I initially planned to install an O-360 in my RV7A because I'd flown behind
them in my two previous airplanes and been happy with them.
After talking to a lot of folks, I changed my mind and went with an IO-360
w/ a constant speed prop. Yes it cost more - but this was the only plane I
was ever going to build. While the RV6/7 flys fine on a 320 (a friend has
one - and he wishes he'd gone w/ a 360), most have 360s. When you fly with
other RVs (and you will), you'll have difficulty keeping up w/ a 320. And
when you (or your family) sells, it'll be more difficult with a 320.
With an IO you'll get better fuel distribution and (maybe) more even CHTs.
With a reasonable EIS (a MUST HAVE - mine's a Grand Rapids 4000), you'll be
able to fly Lean Of Peak - which I understand is not recommended with just
carburation. My RV7A will cruise 160+kts at about 8.5-9 gph. I haven't ran
the numbers, but I'd guess being able to run LOP over a couple years will
pay back the IO up-cost in fuel savings.
I shopped for engines/props - a LOT. I chose AeroSport
http://www.aerosportpower.com/prices.htm#NewEngines after a friend mentioned
them - and I talked w/ Bart and Sue at OSH. Ask around - they KNOW their
stuff and their reputation is Very Good. Their prices are more than
competitive - but most of all, their warranty is better than
Vans/Matt./Lyc./etc. (it starts with 1st flight - not some period after the
engine ships). They did what they promised - and were more than helpful thru
the install (They no-charge shipped an extra throttle lever when I had cowl
clearance issues and worked thru some fuel injection servo re-plumbing as
well as my ECI cylinder recall).
I chose 2 PMags with the automotive plugs option after a lot of shopping -
and I'm delighted with the choice. (they've been flawless; checkout the cost
of plugs! - and timing takes 2 minutes!). AeroSport adjusted the price since
I wasn't using the included mags. I recommend that you Stay Away from vacuum
pumps!
As you know, making choices is the most difficult part of building (other
than coming up with the $$s). I've re-done some of the choices I made along
the way - everyone does. But it's REAL expensive to change your mind on the
engine/prop. Choose wisely.
Good Luck - and keep plugging.
"Jerry" Riffel
RV7A: 120+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
| From: | Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> |
Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Joe,
My RV-9A gave me exactly the same grief and still does, putting in the
cowl hinge pins. Four tips that I seem to have eased the situation a
lot for me without changing the diameter of the pins are:
1. If you make a hardwood stick, about 12" long with a hole in one end
to receive the bent over end of the hinge pin, you can get much better
purchase on a sticky hinge pin by holding the pin against the stick.
It also helps when removing it too. I'm assuming you bent over the last
1/2" per the plans.
2. Do a visual check of exactly where it's binding and try to gently
ease those hinge segments over in the right direction. Don't use
something that will crush the inner diameter of the hinge (my
experience), or maybe fill the hole with a piece of pin before you start
trying to move it. It's time consuming, checking, removing the cowl,
bending, blah blah.
3. Taper the starting end of the pin off centre, then when you're
trying to find the hole in the next segment you can rotate the pin to
fish for the hole.
4. On my 9A it works best to put the side pins half way in, then align
and only start the firewall pins, and then finish off inserting the side
pins. My pins on the firewall also benefit from a push with my pusher
stick.
After 55 hours removing and replacing the cowl is getting easier and
quicker. The pins do seem to loosen a bit, but developing a routine
that works for you helps too, especially if, like me, you usually have
to do it on your own.
Ian Brown, Bromont, QC, C-GOHM RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wade Roe" <wroe1(at)dbtech.net> |
| Subject: | Binding in Engine Cowl hinges |
Gentleman,
I just completed the cowling on my 7 and encountered the same issue
(slight misalignment/epoxy interference). My solution was to take a
long piece of the .090 pin material and flute one end like a drill bit.
I did this by hand on my bench grinding. This doesn=99t need to
perfect just a semi-sharp helix. I then matched up the top and bottom
cowl as if I were going to assemble with the hinge pin. Then I chucked
my .090 fluted pin in my cordless drill and ran it in and out through
the hinge eyes of my cowling. Continue cycle full depth until the
desired fit is achieved. A drop or two of oil goes a long way. Fine
lapping compound could also be used if needed.
Hope this helps!
Wade Roe
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 11:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Binding in Engine Cowl hinges
Joe,
My RV-9A gave me exactly the same grief and still does, putting in the
cowl hinge pins. Four tips that I seem to have eased the situation a
lot for me without changing the diameter of the pins are:
1. If you make a hardwood stick, about 12" long with a hole in one end
to receive the bent over end of the hinge pin, you can get much better
purchase on a sticky hinge pin by holding the pin against the stick.
It also helps when removing it too. I'm assuming you bent over the last
1/2" per the plans.
2. Do a visual check of exactly where it's binding and try to gently
ease those hinge segments over in the right direction. Don't use
something that will crush the inner diameter of the hinge (my
experience), or maybe fill the hole with a piece of pin before you start
trying to move it. It's time consuming, checking, removing the cowl,
bending, blah blah.
3. Taper the starting end of the pin off centre, then when you're
trying to find the hole in the next segment you can rotate the pin to
fish for the hole.
4. On my 9A it works best to put the side pins half way in, then align
and only start the firewall pins, and then finish off inserting the side
pins. My pins on the firewall also benefit from a push with my pusher
stick.
After 55 hours removing and replacing the cowl is getting easier and
quicker. The pins do seem to loosen a bit, but developing a routine
that works for you helps too, especially if, like me, you usually have
to do it on your own.
Ian Brown, Bromont, QC, C-GOHM RV-9A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Stewart System **Discount** |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
EAA Special of the week .....
20% Off Stewart System paints, primers.
Ends Feb 25th
Just a heads up for those in need now. I am restoring a Champ and it is a
pretty big savings since it includes the fabric too.
Check out the EAA web Site or The Stewart site.
Sal
RV 8
7AC
Lakeland FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, |
which model?
Either a 320 or a 360 can burn car gas - it depends on the compression
ratio. A 150hp O-320 (low compression) can run on unleaded regular and a
160hp can run on premium. The real issue is ethanol being added
everywhere you look. Recently, my trusty Indian reservation gas station
started adding ethanol. I talked to the tribe's gas stations manager and
he confirmed that they are not obligated to buy the ethanol-gas blend
but it is cheaper. We discussed the possibility of providing Premium
non-ethanol gas as a way to cater to the aircraft and boat people.
Side note: The ethanol destroys the gas station's underground fiberglass
tanks!
John Morgensen
RV4 - Purchased flying
RV9A - Soon
Scott wrote:
>
> But the O-320s can burn car gas :) I'm planning on an O-320 in my RV-4.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which model? |
What is the world coming to . Several RV related topics and all
responses civil.
I favor the Lycoming 180 HP for the RV 4,6,7, and 8. My vote is for
the o-360A1A which is the carb version. While I agree with the theory
that you should be able to lean better with fuel injection, frankly I
have not seen any noticeable difference on trips between FI and carb
O-360s on vans airplanes. Very subjective.. Maybe i just lean more
than they do?
What I can say is the FI engines do not go faster or take off
shorter, or climb better I am referring to the 180HP Lycs and
clones. The only clear advantage for fuel injection on RVs with the
180 HP that I see is freedom from carb ice. HOWEVER, I have found it
very difficult to verify instances of carb ice in RVs who fly VFR.
Personally I have had none in my 2400 hours of flying my RV-6A from
Alaska to Florida and a few points in between. BUT I would never say
never. I am cautious and that is how I got so old in this business.
The operators handbook for my 180HP shows the same horsepower ratings
and, in fact if you study the unreadable fuel consumption charts it
shows the carb version with slightly less fuel flow at same horsepower!
Over the past few years I have experimented with various settings for
cruise and here is what I use: 7.2 GPH at 2400 RPM and 10.5 to 13.5
on the altitude. This yields between 160 and 165 KTAS. Climb to that
altitude is expensive and slower, so the trip fuel burn is usually
around 8GPH overall. Should add I have a hartzell constant speed, old
version.
You will find it is very very difficult to compare performance with
another RV pilot. You can't even get past the first input: What are
you using for flight time? Not to mention TAS vs GS or an
uncalibrated fuel flow instrument, etc etc. The comparison I use is
where we fly formation and compare fuel slips at the end of the trip.
EVEN THEN, you will find some folks vary the way they top off from one
fill up to the next.
So for me, the lower initial cost, lower complexity, simpler system
sways the decision to the Carb 180 HP. Personally I think there is a
slight safety edge to the carb, with its lower fuel pressure system
and no plumbing on top of the engine.
I can't comment with any authority on the starting characteristics,
but subjectively, I note it looks easier to hot start a carb version,
but I have seen it screwed up on both systems. Most people would say
the carb is easier to start hot and cold.
I do not operate above 18,000 MSL, but suspect that might be an area
where the fuel injection would operate better. I can say the carb
still works great at 17,500.
Last: I feel anyone who can build an airplane can overhaul a carb and
adjust the float level. No so with the fuel injection system.
Post script. I have not covered all the factors to be used for
comparison. Also there is more detail to some of my comparisons. One
example is weight. The O-360 is heavier than the O320, but only
marginally so. The 200HP and 210 HP versions are quite a bit
heavier. The 180 is right in the middle and offers a great CG with
awesome performance.
>
Denis RV-6A
N133DW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which |
model?
I have been flying my RV-6 with O-320 for the past 12-years. I have a par
allel valve 360 core sitting in my hangar that I plan to built up as an IO-
360 Constant Speed prop when I get around to it.
I am putting the 180 HP FI in when I get around to it because I did not do
it when I built the airplane.
12+ years flying all over North America most of the time with other RVs has
shown me that the 360 will use less fuel than the 320 when flying the same
cruise speeds and will go FASTER than the 320 when you wish to burn more f
uel. Using the data from the FAA TCDS for both Lycoming engines shows that
there is only 10 pounds difference in weight between the 320 and 360. An
increase in 10 pounds to gain 20 HP and less pounds of fuel per HP produced
sounds good to me. IF you look at the TCDS for the Superior Vantage 360
=2C it has the same bore=2C stroke=2C and compression as the Lycoming and i
t was certificated on auto fuel and 100 LL.
SEE TCDS E00001SC for info on the Superior Air Parts engine.
--- insert from E00001SC ---
Motor Gasoline (R+M/2) (See Note 7)
ASTM D4814=2C Min Octane 91 (no alcohol)
--- snip ---
NOTE 7. .
Experience has shown that there is a higher probability of vapor locking on
aircraft=2C especially on those equipped with fuel injected reciprocating
engines when operating with high volatility fuels such as motor gasoline. A
ircraft fuel system designs for the powerplant installation of these engine
s may need to incorporate special design features or enhanced cooling to ac
commodate operation with high volatility fuels such as motor gasoline. The
aircraft fuel system hot weather testing requirements of FAR 23.961 must be
successfully accomplished for each aircraft powerplant installation design
of these engines (both carbureted and fuel injected) to obtain approval fo
r operation with motor gasoline.(Ref: AC 23.1521-1B).
...END...
--- end insert from E00001SC ---
The Parallel valve 360 is the way to go. There is not much difference in N
EW price of fuel injection vs carb or 320 vs 360 but the electric boost pum
p does cost more for the FI engine. Both the Carb and FI can run LEAN OF P
EAK but the FI can run leaner of peak than the carb. Leaner of peak will b
e lower fuel flow but from experience I can say for a fact that lower fuel
flow means lower air speed. You need the fuel to make the HP and get the s
peed. Not such thing as free HP.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C241+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing First Look! |
Dear Listers,
I've been working hard on the front, fixed fairing around the windscreen this week.
Literally, I've been dreading this job more than ANY other on this project.
Tonight I sanded though the first layer of electrical tape and in one little
spot the second layer started to come up, so I had to pull all of the electrical
tape off and so I was able to check out the actual fiberglass fairing after
two days of sanding! Yahoo! It came out nearly perfect!! Not bad for creating
a fairing out of nothing! The process described in the manual really
does work amazingly well. I followed it to the tee up to this point.
Now I have to retape everything, add a layer of resin mixed with filler, then final
sand the whole thing. Should be pretty straight forward, but a couple of
days worth of work.
Almost done...
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which |
model?
Very well said......I must add that on paper a FI engine beats a carbed engine
when it comes to economy especially after balancing the injectors. I am fuel injected,
W/elect ingnition, and I have NEVER flown with another RV that used the
same or less fuel. I am as much as 1.5 GPH less or as little as .5 GPH less,
but I have ALWAYS been less. many of these trips have been over 1k miles one
way. I am not saying your wrong but if you factor in ALL the variables, well
in my opinion you just cant compare one plane to another because they are ALL
different even when they are "the same".........if that makes sense.
Scott
RV-8a
________________________________
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Fri, January 29, 2010 6:02:30 PM
Subject: RV-List: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which model?
What is the world coming to . Several RV related topics and all responses civil.
I favor the Lycoming 180 HP for the RV 4,6,7, and 8. My vote is for the o-360A1A
which is the carb version. While I agree with the theory that you should
be able to lean better with fuel injection, frankly I have not seen any noticeable
difference on trips between FI and carb O-360s on vans airplanes. Very subjective..
Maybe i just lean more than they do?
What I can say is the FI engines do not go faster or take off shorter, or climb
better I am referring to the 180HP Lycs and clones. The only clear advantage
for fuel injection on RVs with the 180 HP that I see is freedom from carb
ice. HOWEVER, I have found it very difficult to verify instances of carb ice
in RVs who fly VFR. Personally I have had none in my 2400 hours of flying my
RV-6A from Alaska to Florida and a few points in between. BUT I would never
say never. I am cautious and that is how I got so old in this business.
The operators handbook for my 180HP shows the same horsepower ratings and, in fact
if you study the unreadable fuel consumption charts it shows the carb version
with slightly less fuel flow at same horsepower!
Over the past few years I have experimented with various settings for cruise and
here is what I use: 7.2 GPH at 2400 RPM and 10.5 to 13.5 on the altitude.
This yields between 160 and 165 KTAS. Climb to that altitude is expensive and
slower, so the trip fuel burn is usually around 8GPH overall. Should add I
have a hartzell constant speed, old version.
You will find it is very very difficult to compare performance with another RV
pilot. You can't even get past the first input: What are you using for flight
time? Not to mention TAS vs GS or an uncalibrated fuel flow instrument, etc
etc. The comparison I use is where we fly formation and compare fuel slips at
the end of the trip. EVEN THEN, you will find some folks vary the way they
top off from one fill up to the next.
So for me, the lower initial cost, lower complexity, simpler system sways the decision
to the Carb 180 HP. Personally I think there is a slight safety edge
to the carb, with its lower fuel pressure system and no plumbing on top of the
engine.
I can't comment with any authority on the starting characteristics, but subjectively,
I note it looks easier to hot start a carb version, but I have seen it
screwed up on both systems. Most people would say the carb is easier to start
hot and cold.
I do not operate above 18,000 MSL, but suspect that might be an area where the
fuel injection would operate better. I can say the carb still works great at
17,500.
Last: I feel anyone who can build an airplane can overhaul a carb and adjust the
float level. No so with the fuel injection system.
Post script. I have not covered all the factors to be used for comparison. Also
there is more detail to some of my comparisons. One example is weight. The
O-360 is heavier than the O320, but only marginally so. The 200HP and 210 HP
versions are quite a bit heavier. The 180 is right in the middle and offers
a great CG with awesome performance.
>
Denis RV-6A
N133DW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Van's Airforce Sweatshirts |
>Does anyone have any of the old style Van's sweatshirts they want to
>part with. These are the ones with the re, black, white and blue
>RV-4 insignea ( blue print-to-flying)? OR does anyone have a source
>of the heat transfer paper that was used to make these shirts? Any
>help will be rewarded.
Louis I Willig
1640 Oakwood Dr.
Penn Valley, PA 19072
610 668-4964
RV-4, N180PF
190HP IO-360, C/S prop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's Airforce Sweatshirts |
Maybe you can get info about getting sweatshirts printed they sale
t-shirts, caps, and patches
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1264886809-390-231&browse=gifts&product=vaf
----
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site:
http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm
Louis Willig wrote:
>
>
>> Does anyone have any of the old style Van's sweatshirts they want to
>> part with. These are the ones with the re, black, white and blue RV-4
>> insignea ( blue print-to-flying)? OR does anyone have a source of the
>> heat transfer paper that was used to make these shirts? Any help will
>> be rewarded.
>
>
> Louis I Willig
> 1640 Oakwood Dr.
> Penn Valley, PA 19072
> 610 668-4964
> RV-4, N180PF
> 190HP IO-360, C/S prop
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Dear Listers,
I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear leg today.
I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and installation looks pretty
straightforward.
But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically the front-to-back
fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two perfect. No
problems there.
The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back. The rear
part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a little bit
higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower in other spots.
If it was higher all the way around, it would be a no-brainer to just sand
it down. But the high/low is problematic. The low spots are generally caused
by the screws and the high spots between the screws.
Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have a "perfect"
transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its going to be
a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to look any different
once its painted.
Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple of weeks
trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Matt, You can super glue washers to the inside of the front piece so that
the screws do not compress the lip into the low position. After that sant
the rest even.
Don VS RV7 flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 3:31 PM
Subject: RV-List: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit...
Dear Listers,
I'm adding the little fairings between the main wheel pants and the gear leg
today. I'm using the premade fairing from Farings Etc and installation
looks pretty straightforward.
But I'm really on the fence about the main wheel pants and specifically the
front-to-back fit. I have the gap all the way around between the two
perfect. No problems there.
The issue is with the unevenness of the thickness of the front to back. The
rear part has the flange that holds the plate nuts. The shoulder is a
little bit higher in some spots than the front part and a little be lower in
other spots. If it was higher all the way around, it would be a no-brainer
to just sand it down. But the high/low is problematic. The low spots are
generally caused by the screws and the high spots between the screws.
Yeah, I could fill and sand and fill and sand so that *maybe* I would have a
"perfect" transition front to back. But maybe not. I'm thinking its going
to be a huge amount of work that, in the end, isn't really going to look any
different once its painted.
Should I just embrace the transition as-is and move on? Or spend a couple
of weeks trying to fill and sand in hopes of a better look?
Attached are a couple of pics of what it looks like currently.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Re: Input Needed on Engine Selection: 0-320 vs. 0-360?, which |
model?
Howdy-
You might consider one of Bart's O/IO 375's. It has the same footprint as
an IO-360, but you can get 195 hp out of it with car gas or another 10 or
15 hp (I forget which) if you go higher compression and 100LL.
The way he flow matches the injectors, one should be able to operate the IO
version significantly leaner than with a typical carb installation. The IO
would also allow sustained inverted flight, for those who like that sort of
thing :-P
Just one more data point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <jjewell(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Front & Back Wheel Pant Fit... |
Had the same when doing mine a few years ago. Spent about four days filling
and sanding for that right fit. Looking at them now it was worth the effort.
Hang in there Matt, my guess is you'll like the outcome.
Yes building an OBAM aircraft is "a huge amount of work" but you knew that
when you signed on.
I'm Sure you'll be proud of the extra effort.
Keep at it, not far now,
Jim in Kelowna RV6-A C-GIIG for sale (No license)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
December 18, 2009 - January 31, 2010
RV-Archive.digest.vol-ui