RV-Archive.digest.vol-uk

March 10, 2010 - April 22, 2010



      >                            RV-List Digest Archive 
      >                                       --- 
      >                      Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 5 
      >            ---------------------------------------------------------- 
      > 
      > 
      > Today's Message Index: 
      > ---------------------- 
      > 
      >      1. 11:04 AM - UHMW tape yellowing  (Frazier, Vincent A) 
      >      2. 11:35 AM - John Ragozzino ?  (Brian Meyette) 
      >      3. 12:43 PM - Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal  (HCRV6(at)comcast.net) 
      >      4. 01:07 PM - Re: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal  > (Vanremog(at)aol.co
      m) 
      >      5. 01:11 PM - Re: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal  > (Vanremog(at)aol.co
      m) 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > ________________________________  Message 1  > _________________________
      ____________ 
      > 
      > 
      > From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> 
      > Subject: RV-List: UHMW tape yellowing 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > SNIP <<<<< 
      > The clear UHMW flap tape on my always-hangared ten year old 6A is 
      > yellowing and peeling at the edges.  Can this tape be removed without 
      > also taking off the aircraft-specific paint?  Sorry, I don't remember 
      > the brand of paint. 
      > 
      > I pulled it back in a couple of areas and it seemed to separate fine >
       but 
      > I would like to hear from someone who "has been there" before > attempti
      ng 
      > to remove it all. 
      > 
      > The present tape came from Vans and I would like to replace it with 
      > their reasonably-priced clear UHMW.  Otherwise I'll go shopping for 
      > white UHMW.               >>>>>SNIP 
      > 
      > We carry 4" wide 3M paint protection film that is perfect for this > pur
      pose.  It's 
      > reasonably priced, removable, and will never yellow.  $2.45/foot. 
      > 
      > http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?> main_page=product_i
      nfo&cPath=1&products_id=256 
      > 
      > Once again, it's removable up to at least 5 years later with NO mess. 
       > I use it 
      > on my Rocket around the fairings, flaps, etc.  And it will NOT yellow.
       > Ever. 
      > You'll find many uses for it.  Good stuff. 
      > 
      > Vince 
      > www.flyboyaccessories.com 
      > 
      > 
      > ________________________________  Message 2  > _________________________
      ____________ 
      > 
      > 
      > From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> 
      > Subject: RV-List: John Ragozzino ? 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > Hey - is John Ragozzino (RV-9 builder) on this list?   I'd like to ask
       > him a 
      > couple questions.    Please email me at 
      > 
      > Bmeyette at gmail dot net 
      > 
      > 
      > Thanks, 
      > Brian 
      > http://www.meyette.us/RV-7Ahome.htm 
      > 
      > 
      > ________________________________  Message 3  > _________________________
      ____________ 
      > 
      > 
      > From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net 
      > Subject: RV-List: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal 
      > 
      > I'm replacing the vacuum pump on my O-360 A1A and recall that someone >
       posted a 
      > reminder on the list not long ago that the vacuum pump oil seal should
       > be replaced 
      > at the same time. Does anyone have more information on that, like part
       > number, 
      > source, and how? 
      > 
      > Harry Crosby 
      > RV-6 N16CX, 665 hours 
      > 
      > ________________________________  Message 4  > _________________________
      ____________ 
      > 
      > 
      > From: Vanremog(at)aol.com 
      > Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal 
      > 
      > Rocketmeister- 
      > 
      > My catalog shows this part as STD-2217. 
      > 
      > Aviall probably has it. 
      > 
      > Good luck 
      > 
      > -GV 
      > 
      > 
      > In a message dated 3/5/2010 12:44:30 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
      > HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes: 
      > 
      > I'm replacing the vacuum pump  on my O-360 A1A and recall that someone
      
      > posted a reminder on the list not long  ago that the vacuum pump oil >
       seal should 
      > 
      > be replaced at the same time.   Does anyone have more information on >
       that, 
      > like part number, source, and  how? 
      > 
      > Harry Crosby 
      > RV-6 N16CX, 665 hours 
      > 
      > 
      > (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) 
      > (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) 
      > 
      > 
      > ________________________________  Message 5  > _________________________
      ____________ 
      > 
      > 
      > From: Vanremog(at)aol.com 
      > Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal 
      > 
      > Sac Sky Ranch has the item STD-2217. 
      > 
      > -GV 
      > 
      > 
      > In a message dated 3/5/2010 12:44:30 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, 
      > HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes: 
      > 
      > I'm replacing the vacuum pump  on my O-360 A1A and recall that someone
      
      > posted a reminder on the list not long  ago that the vacuum pump oil >
       seal should 
      > 
      > be replaced at the same time.   Does anyone have more information on >
       that, 
      > like part number, source, and  how? 
      > 
      > Harry Crosby 
      > RV-6 N16CX, 665 hours 
      > 
      > 
      > (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) 
      > (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      ========================
      ============ 
      ========================
      ============ 
      ========================
      ============ 
      ========================
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 10, 2010
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/05/10
Ron, Goo Gone is a citrus based product which will safely remove the adhesive from plastics. You can find it at most quality hardware stores. Home Depot carries it. You will find it in their paint isle, near the spray paints. FYI, another lister mentioned Goof Off. Be aware that there are 2 varieties of Goof Off. One of the two is mineral solvent based. The solvent based variety WILL damage the plastic, making it cloudy. Charlie Kuss --- On Tue, 3/9/10, ronald vandervort wrote: > From: ronald vandervort <ronvan(at)q.com> > Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/05/10 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, March 9, 2010, 2:01 PM > ronald vandervort > > My plastic wear strip is cracking and breaking up as well > on my flaps. When I pull off the pieces a sizable > residue of adhesive is left that needs to be removed. > Has anyone figured out what works to remove that adhesive? > Thanks, > Ron Vandervort RV-6 1470 hrs. always hangared too. > On Mar 6, 2010, at 12:58 AM, RV-List Digest Server wrote: > > > * > > > > > ================================================= > > Online Versions of Today's List Digest > Archive > > > ================================================= > > > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in > either of the > > two Web Links listed below. The .html file > includes the Digest formatted > > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features > Hyperlinked Indexes > > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes > the plain ASCII version > > of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic > text editor > > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > > > HTML Version: > > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV > > > > Text Version: > > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-03-05&Archive=RV > > > > > > > =============================================== > > EMail Version of Today's List Digest > Archive > > > =============================================== > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > RV-List Digest > Archive > > > > --- > > > Total Messages Posted Fri 03/05/10: 5 > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > Today's Message Index: > > ---------------------- > > > > 1. 11:04 AM - UHMW tape > yellowing (Frazier, Vincent A) > > 2. 11:35 AM - John Ragozzino > ? (Brian Meyette) > > 3. 12:43 PM - Lycoming vacuum pump > oil seal (HCRV6(at)comcast.net) > > 4. 01:07 PM - Re: Lycoming vacuum > pump oil seal (Vanremog(at)aol.com) > > 5. 01:11 PM - Re: Lycoming vacuum > pump oil seal (Vanremog(at)aol.com) > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > > > > From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> > > Subject: RV-List: UHMW tape yellowing > > > > > > > > SNIP <<<<< > > The clear UHMW flap tape on my always-hangared ten > year old 6A is > > yellowing and peeling at the edges. Can this > tape be removed without > > also taking off the aircraft-specific paint? > Sorry, I don't remember > > the brand of paint. > > > > I pulled it back in a couple of areas and it seemed to > separate fine but > > I would like to hear from someone who "has been there" > before attempting > > to remove it all. > > > > The present tape came from Vans and I would like to > replace it with > > their reasonably-priced clear UHMW. Otherwise > I'll go shopping for > > white UHMW. > >>>>>SNIP > > > > We carry 4" wide 3M paint protection film that is > perfect for this purpose. It's > > reasonably priced, removable, and will never > yellow. $2.45/foot. > > > > http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=256 > > > > Once again, it's removable up to at least 5 years > later with NO mess. I use it > > on my Rocket around the fairings, flaps, etc. > And it will NOT yellow. Ever. > > You'll find many uses for it. Good stuff. > > > > Vince > > www.flyboyaccessories.com > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > > > > From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com> > > Subject: RV-List: John Ragozzino ? > > > > > > > > Hey - is John Ragozzino (RV-9 builder) on this > list?I'd like to ask him a > > couple questions. Please email me at > > > > Bmeyette at gmail dot net > > > > > > Thanks, > > Brian > > http://www.meyette.us/RV-7Ahome.htm > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > > > > From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net > > Subject: RV-List: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal > > > > I'm replacing the vacuum pump on my O-360 A1A and > recall that someone posted a > > reminder on the list not long ago that the vacuum pump > oil seal should be replaced > > at the same time. Does anyone have more information on > that, like part number, > > source, and how? > > > > Harry Crosby > > RV-6 N16CX, 665 hours > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > > > > From: Vanremog(at)aol.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal > > > > Rocketmeister- > > > > My catalog shows this part as STD-2217. > > > > Aviall probably has it. > > > > Good luck > > > > -GV > > > > > > In a message dated 3/5/2010 12:44:30 P.M. Pacific > Standard Time, > > HCRV6(at)comcast.net > writes: > > > > I'm replacing the vacuum pump on my O-360 A1A > and recall that someone > > posted a reminder on the list not long ago that > the vacuum pump oil seal should > > > > be replaced at the same time.Does > anyone have more information on that, > > like part number, source, and how? > > > > Harry Crosby > > RV-6 N16CX, 665 hours > > > > > > (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) > > (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > > > > From: Vanremog(at)aol.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming vacuum pump oil seal > > > > Sac Sky Ranch has the item STD-2217. > > > > -GV > > > > > > In a message dated 3/5/2010 12:44:30 P.M. Pacific > Standard Time, > > HCRV6(at)comcast.net > writes: > > > > I'm replacing the vacuum pump on my O-360 A1A > and recall that someone > > posted a reminder on the list not long ago that > the vacuum pump oil seal should > > > > be replaced at the same time.Does > anyone have more information on that, > > like part number, source, and how? > > > > Harry Crosby > > RV-6 N16CX, 665 hours > > > > > > (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) > > (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Forum - > FAQ, > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > List Contribution Web Site - > -Matt > Dralle, List Admin. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FS: Bose Aviation Headset X
Date: Mar 10, 2010
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Listers - I have accumulated too many headsets. For Sale: Bose X with straight cord, GA plugs and battery pack in like-new condition. Original box and carry case. Asking $850, shipped CONUS Neal George Work - 850-884-7165 Cell - 850-218-4838 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2010
From: jimbean6(at)verizon.net
Subject: Slowing down the trim
We all know that the usual trim setup used in the RV's and others is very touchy. Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply intending to power the headsets with it. Foolish boy, that doesn't work. Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the trim indicator supply at 14 volts. Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good thing. I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9 volt supply but it does work. For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list on the back of the package. Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. It is in autocad format. Jim Bean jimbean6(at)verizon.net RV-8 81110 80 hours. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 13, 2010
Subject: seasoning brakes
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I have just taxied my RV-6A a little bit. The brakes don't seem to hold very well if I rev. up to, say 1200 or so, and I remembered reading somewhere about seasoning the brakes. I think I need to do that before I try a real run-up to 1700 - 1800 RPM, otherwise, it will be very hard to hold the plane with the brakes. Can some one tell me how to do that? Something about braking while taxiing? How much, how fast, etc.? Thanks, -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 14, 2010
Subject: Re: Slowing down the trim
PWM circuit is the proper way to do this without lowering motor torque, not a voltage regulator. Van's has proven servo controllers. -GV In a message dated 3/13/2010 12:24:04 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, jimbean6(at)verizon.net writes: Early in building my RV-8 I built and installed a 9 volt power supply intending to power the headsets with it. Foolish boy, that doesn't work. Since the 9 volts was already there I tried it on the trim motor, leaving the trim indicator supply at 14 volts. Everything has been working fine with the trim just running slower, a good thing. I realize that most people will not want to bother installing a separate 9 volt supply but it does work. For those interested the shack 5 amp regulator has a schematic and parts list on the back of the package. Contact me off-line for my trim schematic. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 14, 2010
Subject: Re: seasoning brakes
A little research yields the following Cleveland (assuming your brakes are stock) literature attached. -GV In a message dated 3/13/2010 10:27:51 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, sarg314(at)gmail.com writes: I have just taxied my RV-6A a little bit. The brakes don't seem to hold very well if I rev. up to, say 1200 or so, and I remembered reading somewhere about seasoning the brakes. I think I need to do that before I try a real run-up to 1700 - 1800 RPM, otherwise, it will be very hard to hold the plane with the brakes. Can some one tell me how to do that? Something about braking while taxiing? How much, how fast, etc.? Thanks, -- Tom Sargent (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Taxes
Date: Mar 16, 2010
I also lived in Oregon Chuck: All that Chris says is correct however, he leaves out the most important thing that you need to consider. Oregon has one of the most OUTRAGEOUS STATE INCOME TAXES in the country, 9% of every dollar you earn!!! NINE PERCENT!! Unless you are retired or have your own business, prepare to get raped by the state. I've lived all over the country and the only place else I've lived that comes close is Delaware at 7%. Most states that have income taxes average around 3%. I now live in Florida which has 6% SALES tax but NO state income tax. If you want warm weather year around but no rip offs from the big nanny states consider coming to the southeast. No mountains but otherwise nice people and low cost of living. Everyone who contemplates moving for a job should check on the income tax from the state where you plan to move. One can avoid most sales taxes if you don't buy big ticket items like cars but, if you work for someone other than yourself, there is NO WAY to avoid state income taxes. In Oregon that's nearly 10 cents out of every dollar that goes to the politicians to buy votes, absolutely a rip off. Also Oregon has very restrictive land use and environmental laws. The consequence of that is artificially higher housing prices and government confiscation of property when deemed necessary for conservation. Chris may not have heard of this but when I was there I heard of folks (with creeks running through their property) that had some of their land confiscated for the sake of preserving the creek!! If you want more of the same liberal politics that you have in CA then Oregon is the place for you, lots of bleeding heart politicians who want your land and money. The year after I left they enacted a 2% sur-charge on TOP of the income tax (that 11% total) for a few years to quash the budget deficit there. I was glad to leave and will never reside there again. I will be back to visit, in summer when the sun is out, temps are moderate and the mountains are majestic. But I'd choose Idaho or Utah if I absolutely HAVE to live in the mountains. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Flying, but finishing up some extraneous items --------------Original Message 2-------------- From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes Hello Chuck... We left 15 years ago. Never looked back. Oregon No sales tax No A/C tax A/C and pilot registration fee: $30/yr. Real property tax depends on county. Typ is 1.25-1.75% of assessed value of land+improvements. No personal property tax. Chris Stone RV-8 Oregon -----Original Message----- From: Chuck Weyant Subject: RV-List: Taxes We're moving out of California. Too many taxes/fees For those of you who live in NV, AZ, OR, Montana or NM what do you pay for: 1. Sales tax percent (if any) for airplanes purchases 2. Yearly fee/taxes for airplanes 3. Annual real estate property tax for personal residence and/or hanger Thanks, Chuck ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Taxes
Hi Dean, I had quite a laugh reading your e-mail. I currently live in Europe (second home is Coventy, GA). More than half of my salary goes to income tax, health care and retirement fund (which will give me only a few hundred Euros per month, when I retire with 67). Sales tax is 19 %. You don't want to know about fuel including Avgas. Restricted land use? A piece of land here is more than land plus house in the US... Oregon sounds like paradies... I guess, it's all a matter of perspective. Cheers Thilo -------- Original-Nachricht -------- > Von: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > An: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Betreff: RV-List: Taxes > > > > I also lived in Oregon Chuck: > > All that Chris says is correct however, he leaves out the most important > thing that you need to consider. Oregon has one of the most OUTRAGEOUS > STATE INCOME TAXES in the country, 9% of every dollar you earn!!! NINE > PERCENT!! Unless you are retired or have your own business, prepare to > get > raped by the state. I've lived all over the country and the only place > else > I've lived that comes close is Delaware at 7%. Most states that have > income > taxes average around 3%. I now live in Florida which has 6% SALES tax but > NO state income tax. If you want warm weather year around but no rip offs > from the big nanny states consider coming to the southeast. No mountains > but > otherwise nice people and low cost of living. > > Everyone who contemplates moving for a job should check on the income tax > from the state where you plan to move. One can avoid most sales taxes if > you don't buy big ticket items like cars but, if you work for someone > other > than yourself, there is NO WAY to avoid state income taxes. In Oregon > that's nearly 10 cents out of every dollar that goes to the politicians to > buy votes, absolutely a rip off. > > Also Oregon has very restrictive land use and environmental laws. The > consequence of that is artificially higher housing prices and government > confiscation of property when deemed necessary for conservation. Chris > may > not have heard of this but when I was there I heard of folks (with creeks > running through their property) that had some of their land confiscated > for > the sake of preserving the creek!! If you want more of the same liberal > politics that you have in CA then Oregon is the place for you, lots of > bleeding heart politicians who want your land and money. The year after I > left they enacted a 2% sur-charge on TOP of the income tax (that 11% > total) > for a few years to quash the budget deficit there. I was glad to leave > and > will never reside there again. I will be back to visit, in summer when > the > sun is out, temps are moderate and the mountains are majestic. But I'd > choose Idaho or Utah if I absolutely HAVE to live in the mountains. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > Flying, but finishing up some extraneous items > > > > --------------Original Message 2-------------- > From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes > > > Hello Chuck... > > We left 15 years ago. Never looked back. Oregon No sales tax No A/C tax > A/C and pilot registration fee: $30/yr. Real property tax depends on > county. Typ is 1.25-1.75% of assessed value of land+improvements. No > personal property tax. > > Chris Stone > RV-8 > Oregon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Chuck Weyant > > Subject: RV-List: Taxes > > We're moving out of California. Too many taxes/fees > For those of you who live in NV, AZ, OR, Montana > or NM what do you pay for: > 1. Sales tax percent (if any) for > airplanes purchases > 2. Yearly fee/taxes for airplanes > 3. Annual real estate property tax for > personal residence and/or hanger > > Thanks, > Chuck > > > > > -- GMX DSL: Internet, Telefon und Entertainment fr nur 19,99 EUR/mtl.! http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/dsl02 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Taxes
Hi Dean, I had quite a laugh reading your e-mail. I currently live in Europe (second home is Coventy, GA). More than half of my salary goes to income tax, health care and retirement fund (which will give me only a few hundred Euros per month, when I retire with 67). Sales tax is 19 %. You don't want to know about fuel including Avgas. Restricted land use? A piece of land here is more than land plus house in the US... Oregon sounds like paradies... I guess, it's all a matter of perspective. Cheers Thilo -------- Original-Nachricht -------- > Von: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > An: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Betreff: RV-List: Taxes > > > > I also lived in Oregon Chuck: > > All that Chris says is correct however, he leaves out the most important > thing that you need to consider. Oregon has one of the most OUTRAGEOUS > STATE INCOME TAXES in the country, 9% of every dollar you earn!!! NINE > PERCENT!! Unless you are retired or have your own business, prepare to > get > raped by the state. I've lived all over the country and the only place > else > I've lived that comes close is Delaware at 7%. Most states that have > income > taxes average around 3%. I now live in Florida which has 6% SALES tax but > NO state income tax. If you want warm weather year around but no rip offs > from the big nanny states consider coming to the southeast. No mountains > but > otherwise nice people and low cost of living. > > Everyone who contemplates moving for a job should check on the income tax > from the state where you plan to move. One can avoid most sales taxes if > you don't buy big ticket items like cars but, if you work for someone > other > than yourself, there is NO WAY to avoid state income taxes. In Oregon > that's nearly 10 cents out of every dollar that goes to the politicians to > buy votes, absolutely a rip off. > > Also Oregon has very restrictive land use and environmental laws. The > consequence of that is artificially higher housing prices and government > confiscation of property when deemed necessary for conservation. Chris > may > not have heard of this but when I was there I heard of folks (with creeks > running through their property) that had some of their land confiscated > for > the sake of preserving the creek!! If you want more of the same liberal > politics that you have in CA then Oregon is the place for you, lots of > bleeding heart politicians who want your land and money. The year after I > left they enacted a 2% sur-charge on TOP of the income tax (that 11% > total) > for a few years to quash the budget deficit there. I was glad to leave > and > will never reside there again. I will be back to visit, in summer when > the > sun is out, temps are moderate and the mountains are majestic. But I'd > choose Idaho or Utah if I absolutely HAVE to live in the mountains. > > Dean Psiropoulos > RV-6A N197DM > Flying, but finishing up some extraneous items > > > > --------------Original Message 2-------------- > From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes > > > Hello Chuck... > > We left 15 years ago. Never looked back. Oregon No sales tax No A/C tax > A/C and pilot registration fee: $30/yr. Real property tax depends on > county. Typ is 1.25-1.75% of assessed value of land+improvements. No > personal property tax. > > Chris Stone > RV-8 > Oregon > > -----Original Message----- > From: Chuck Weyant > > Subject: RV-List: Taxes > > We're moving out of California. Too many taxes/fees > For those of you who live in NV, AZ, OR, Montana > or NM what do you pay for: > 1. Sales tax percent (if any) for > airplanes purchases > 2. Yearly fee/taxes for airplanes > 3. Annual real estate property tax for > personal residence and/or hanger > > Thanks, > Chuck > > > > > -- GMX DSL: Internet, Telefon und Entertainment fr nur 19,99 EUR/mtl.! http://portal.gmx.net/de/go/dsl02 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Taxes
So what-is the most tax/avaition friendly states?=0A-Scott =0ARV-8a=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Thilo Kind <thilo.k ind(at)gmx.net>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed , March 17, 2010 5:58:02 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Taxes=0A=0A--> RV-List message posted by: "Thilo Kind" =0A=0AHi Dean,=0A=0AI h ad quite a laugh reading your e-mail. I currently live in Europe (second ho me is Coventy, GA). More than half of my salary goes to income tax, health care and retirement fund (which will give me only a few hundred Euros per m onth, when I retire with 67). Sales tax is 19 %. You don't want to know abo ut fuel including Avgas. Restricted land use?- A piece of land here is mo re than land plus house in the US... Oregon sounds like paradies...=0A=0AI guess, it's all a matter of perspective.=0A=0ACheers=0A=0AThilo=0A-------- Von: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" =0A> An: rv-list@matr "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> I also lived in Oregon Chuck:=0A> =0A> All that Chris says is correct however, he leaves out the most important=0A> thing that you need to consider.- Oreg on has one of the most OUTRAGEOUS=0A> STATE INCOME TAXES in the country, 9% of every dollar you earn!!! NINE=0A> PERCENT!!- Unless you are retired o r have your own business, prepare to=0A> get=0A> raped by the state.- I'v e lived all over the country and the only place=0A> else=0A> I've lived tha t comes close is Delaware at 7%.- Most states that have=0A> income=0A> ta xes average around 3%.- I now live in Florida which has 6% SALES tax but =0A> NO state income tax.- If you want warm weather year around but no ri p offs=0A> from the big nanny states consider coming to the southeast. No m ountains=0A> but=0A> otherwise nice people and low cost of living.=0A> =0A> Everyone who contemplates moving for a job should check on the income tax =0A> from the state where you plan to move.- One can avoid most sales tax es if=0A> you don't buy big ticket items like cars but, if you work for som eone=0A> other=0A> than yourself, there is NO WAY to avoid state income tax es.- In Oregon=0A> that's nearly 10 cents out of every dollar that goes t o the politicians to=0A> buy votes, absolutely a rip off.=0A> =0A> Also Ore gon has very restrictive land use and environmental laws.- The=0A> conseq uence of that is artificially higher housing prices and government=0A> conf iscation of property when deemed necessary for conservation.- Chris=0A> m ay=0A> not have heard of this but when I was there I heard of folks (with c reeks=0A> running through their property) that had some of their land confi scated=0A> for=0A> the sake of preserving the creek!! If you want more of t he same liberal=0A> politics that you have in CA then Oregon is the place f or you, lots of=0A> bleeding heart politicians who want your land and money . The year after I=0A> left they enacted a 2% sur-charge on TOP of the inco me tax (that 11%=0A> total)=0A> for a few years to quash the budget deficit there.- I was glad to leave=0A> and=0A> will never reside there again. - I will be back to visit, in summer when=0A> the=0A> sun is out, temps a re moderate and the mountains are majestic.- But I'd=0A> choose Idaho or Utah if I absolutely HAVE to live in the mountains.=0A> =0A> Dean Psiropoul os=0A> RV-6A N197DM=0A> Flying, but finishing up some extraneous items=0A> =0A>- - =0A> =0A> --------------Original Message 2--------------=0A> Fr om: Chris Stone =0A> Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes=0A > =0A> =0A> Hello Chuck...=0A> =0A> We left 15 years ago.- Never looked b ack.- Oregon No sales tax No A/C tax=0A> A/C and pilot registration fee: - $30/yr. Real property tax depends on=0A> county.- Typ is 1.25-1.75% o f assessed value of land+improvements. No=0A> personal property tax.=0A> =0A> Chris Stone=0A> RV-8=0A> Oregon=0A> =0A> -----Original Message-----=0A > From: Chuck Weyant =0A> =0A> Subject: RV-List: Taxes=0A> =0A> We're movin g out of California.- Too many taxes/fees=0A> For those of you who live i n NV, AZ, OR, Montana=0A> or NM what do you pay for:=0A> 1. Sales tax perce nt (if any) for=0A> airplanes purchases =0A> 2. Yearly fee/taxes for airpla nes=0A> 3. Annual real estate property tax for=0A> personal residence and/o r hanger=0A> =0A> Thanks,=0A> Chuck=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A=0A-- =0AGMX DSL: Internet, Telefon und Entertainment f=FCr nur 19,99 EUR/mtl.!=0Ahttp: ======================0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: d-burton(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Taxes
It will make a huge difference what your personal situation is. Are you working? Do you have substantial investments? Income? Own a home? A business? We all pay on average about 42% of our income in taxes each year. (Not income taxes. All taxes in total). Everybody in developed countries does. This comes as a big surprise to most people. You can look at your personal situation and find the best way to maximize your income and minimize your tax obligation. Just be careful that you don't figure out how to pay a tiny amount of tax at the expense of earning a tiny amount of money. What is important at the end of the day is what remains in your pocket... This article was written for retirees but can give you some things to think about and resources to do some additional research on different states: http://moneycentral.msn.com/content/retirementandwills/p45875.asp The other problem is that things don't stay the same forever. My state (Washington) which has the same budget problems most other states do at the moment has looked and the "wealthy" airplane owners who are not paying their "fair share" of taxes and is proposing to add a huge use tax to aircraft this year. Florida (where I have lived twice) is great and I'm considering living there again at least part time has incredibly low taxes. Unfortunately since taxes have been chopped to unsustainable levels, and there is not adequate revenue to support what little government services there are there, at some point in the near future things are likely to change dramatically for the worse. I think finding a place friendly to aviation with good flying weather may drive the decision. DavidB RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Mersek " <rv6flyer(at)hughes.net>
Subject: Calaveras Air Faire 2010
Date: Mar 17, 2010
The Calaveras Airport Fly-In and Open House is next month. Come help celebrate our annual Fly-in, we are looking forward to another great turn out of RV's! --Larry Mersek RV-6, KCPU Calaveras Airport "Air Fair 2010" Apr. 24-San Andreas, CA. Calaveras County Airport (KCPU)-Fly-In & Open House 8am-5pm. Aircraft static displays, $5 airplane rides, Music by Calaveras community band, Classic cars, Radio control aircraft exhibit, Breakfast by Lyons Club, Tri-Tip BBQ by EAA chapter 484. Kathy Zancanella: kz(at)mlode.com or Larry Mersek: rv6flyer(at)hughes.net Airport Info: (209) 736-2501 http://www.airnav.com/airport/KCPU EAA Motherlode chapter 484 website: www.EAA484.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Taxes
Date: Mar 17, 2010
David, Thanks so much for your words of wisdom. How right you are about not reducing ones income to avoid taxes. I am recently retired but have numerous modest investments (stocks, real estate, and two airplanes). I received some correspondence from a developer/pilot in Tennessee. TN is 49th in state taxes with Alaska (petroleum rich) being 50th. That is good. My wife and I spent some time in TN two years ago and loved it there. Don't know what it would be like to live there though. Well, we don't have to make a decision immediately, so will continue to gather more info. Again thanks for you words of wisdom. They're greatly appreciated, Chuck _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of d-burton(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:43 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes It will make a huge difference what your personal situation is. Are you working? Do you have substantial investments? Income? Own a home? A business? We all pay on average about 42% of our income in taxes each year. (Not income taxes. All taxes in total). Everybody in developed countries does. This comes as a big surprise to most people. You can look at your personal situation and find the best way to maximize your income and minimize your tax obligation. Just be careful that you don't figure out how to pay a tiny amount of tax at the expense of earning a tiny amount of money. What is important at the end of the day is what remains in your pocket... This article was written for retirees but can give you some things to think about and resources to do some additional research on different states: http://moneycentral.msn.com/content/retirementandwills/p45875.asp The other problem is that things don't stay the same forever. My state (Washington) which has the same budget problems most other states do at the moment has looked and the "wealthy" airplane owners who are not paying their "fair share" of taxes and is proposing to add a huge use tax to aircraft this year. Florida (where I have lived twice) is great and I'm considering living there again at least part time has incredibly low taxes. Unfortunately since taxes have been chopped to unsustainable levels, and there is not adequate revenue to support what little government services there are there, at some point in the near future things are likely to change dramatically for the worse. I think finding a place friendly to aviation with good flying weather may drive the decision. DavidB RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: rveighta(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Taxes
Chuck, I forwarded your first message to the developer of my airpark, Ted H ensley. Good to hear he responded to you. Like you I'm retired (DuPont), and have lived in about a dozen states plus five fore ign countries. And I like Tennessee the best. Why? Because it's has the lowest cost of living of any place I've been, the east ern part where I live has spectacular mountain views (5,000' peaks 4 miles from the runway), the people are friendly and we have a wide diversity of pilots here at the airpark. Most pilots are retired, but one is a medivac helo pilot and another flies for Delta. We have a stearman, two J-3's and several RV's (7A, 7, 9A and the tail section of an RV-12 which I'm building). Most of the pil ots are from other states - Florida, Mississippi, Virginia, New Jersey, Texas and one from California. Check out our website and see what you think. If I can be of any help, give me a shout...... Walt Shipley (423) 257-6566 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 6:51:59 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes David, Thanks so much for your words of wisdom.=C2- How right you are about not reducing ones income to avoid taxes.=C2- I am recently retired but have n umerous modest investments (stocks, real estate, and two airplanes).=C2- I received some correspondence from a developer/pilot in Tennessee.=C2- T N is 49 th in state taxes with Alaska (petroleum rich) being 50 th .=C2- That is good.=C2- My wife and I spent some time in TN two years ago and loved it there.=C2- Don=99t know what it would be like to live there though.=C2- Well, we don=99t have to make a decision immediately, so will continue to gather more info.=C2- Again thanks for you words of wisdom.=C2- They=99re greatly appreci ated, Chuck From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of d-burton(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:43 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes It will make a huge difference what your personal situation is.=C2- Are y ou working?=C2- Do you have substantial investments?=C2- Income? Own a home?=C2- A business? We all pay on average about 42% of our income in taxes each year.=C2- (No t income taxes.=C2- All taxes in total).=C2- Everybody in developed cou ntries does.=C2- This comes as a big surprise to most people. You can look at your personal situation and find the best way to maximize y our income and minimize your tax obligation.=C2- Just be careful that you don't figure out how to pay a tiny amount of tax at the expense of earning a tiny amount of money.=C2- What is important at the end of the day is w hat remains in your pocket...=C2- This article was written for retirees but can give you some things to think about and resources to do some additional research on different states: http://moneycentral.msn.com/content/retirementandwills/p45875.asp The other problem is that things don't stay the same forever.=C2- My stat e (Washington) which has the same budget problems most other states do at t he moment has looked and the "wealthy" airplane owners who are not paying t heir "fair share" of taxes and is proposing to add a huge use tax to aircra ft this year.=C2- Florida (where I have lived twice) is great and I'm considering living ther e again at least part time has incredibly low taxes.=C2- Unfortunately si nce taxes have been chopped to unsustainable levels, and there is not adequ ate revenue to support what little government services there are there, at some point in the near future things are likely to change dramatically for the worse.=C2-=C2- I think finding a place friendly to aviation with good flying weather may d rive the decision. DavidB RV6 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums. matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.mat ============== == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com>
Subject: Re: Taxes
I think this is an interesting thread. Walt, I can't seem to find any pointers to the park that you are talking about. Can you repost the website and or airport identifier? john rveighta(at)comcast.net wrote: > > Chuck, I forwarded your first message to the developer of my airpark, > Ted Hensley. Good to hear he responded to you. Like you > > I'm retired (DuPont), and have lived in about a dozen states plus five > foreign countries. And I like Tennessee the best. Why? > > Because it's has the lowest cost of living of any place I've been, the > eastern part where I live has spectacular mountain views (5,000' > > peaks 4 miles from the runway), the people are friendly and we have a > wide diversity of pilots here at the airpark. > > > > Most pilots are retired, but one is a medivac helo pilot and another > flies for Delta. We have a stearman, two J-3's and several RV's (7A, > > 7, 9A and the tail section of an RV-12 which I'm building). Most of > the pilots are from other states - Florida, Mississippi, Virginia, > > New Jersey, Texas and one from California. > > > > Check out our website and see what you think. If I can be of any help, > give me a shout...... > > > > Walt Shipley (423) 257-6566 > > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bret Smith" <smithhb(at)tds.net>
Subject: Taxes
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Chuck, I live in GA near the TN/NC border and keep my plane at Copperhill, TN (1A3). Beautiful country and close to both Chattanooga and Atlanta. Lots of Florida retirees here with hiking, camping and fly fishing streams everywhere. We have an active EAA Chapter nearby (www.eaa1211.org). Why not visit and stay with us to get a feel for the area. Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 6:52 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes David, Thanks so much for your words of wisdom. How right you are about not reducing ones income to avoid taxes. I am recently retired but have numerous modest investments (stocks, real estate, and two airplanes). I received some correspondence from a developer/pilot in Tennessee. TN is 49th in state taxes with Alaska (petroleum rich) being 50th. That is good. My wife and I spent some time in TN two years ago and loved it there. Don't know what it would be like to live there though. Well, we don't have to make a decision immediately, so will continue to gather more info. Again thanks for you words of wisdom. They're greatly appreciated, Chuck _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of d-burton(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:43 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes It will make a huge difference what your personal situation is. Are you working? Do you have substantial investments? Income? Own a home? A business? We all pay on average about 42% of our income in taxes each year. (Not income taxes. All taxes in total). Everybody in developed countries does. This comes as a big surprise to most people. You can look at your personal situation and find the best way to maximize your income and minimize your tax obligation. Just be careful that you don't figure out how to pay a tiny amount of tax at the expense of earning a tiny amount of money. What is important at the end of the day is what remains in your pocket... This article was written for retirees but can give you some things to think about and resources to do some additional research on different states: http://moneycentral.msn.com/content/retirementandwills/p45875.asp The other problem is that things don't stay the same forever. My state (Washington) which has the same budget problems most other states do at the moment has looked and the "wealthy" airplane owners who are not paying their "fair share" of taxes and is proposing to add a huge use tax to aircraft this year. Florida (where I have lived twice) is great and I'm considering living there again at least part time has incredibly low taxes. Unfortunately since taxes have been chopped to unsustainable levels, and there is not adequate revenue to support what little government services there are there, at some point in the near future things are likely to change dramatically for the worse. I think finding a place friendly to aviation with good flying weather may drive the decision. DavidB RV6 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Taxes
Date: Mar 17, 2010
Wooee. Thanks for the invite. Who knows, just might do that. How's taxes, etc., in GA? Chuck _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 6:16 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes Chuck, I live in GA near the TN/NC border and keep my plane at Copperhill, TN (1A3). Beautiful country and close to both Chattanooga and Atlanta. Lots of Florida retirees here with hiking, camping and fly fishing streams everywhere. We have an active EAA Chapter nearby (www.eaa1211.org). Why not visit and stay with us to get a feel for the area. Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 6:52 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes David, Thanks so much for your words of wisdom. How right you are about not reducing ones income to avoid taxes. I am recently retired but have numerous modest investments (stocks, real estate, and two airplanes). I received some correspondence from a developer/pilot in Tennessee. TN is 49th in state taxes with Alaska (petroleum rich) being 50th. That is good. My wife and I spent some time in TN two years ago and loved it there. Don't know what it would be like to live there though. Well, we don't have to make a decision immediately, so will continue to gather more info. Again thanks for you words of wisdom. They're greatly appreciated, Chuck _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of d-burton(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:43 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes It will make a huge difference what your personal situation is. Are you working? Do you have substantial investments? Income? Own a home? A business? We all pay on average about 42% of our income in taxes each year. (Not income taxes. All taxes in total). Everybody in developed countries does. This comes as a big surprise to most people. You can look at your personal situation and find the best way to maximize your income and minimize your tax obligation. Just be careful that you don't figure out how to pay a tiny amount of tax at the expense of earning a tiny amount of money. What is important at the end of the day is what remains in your pocket... This article was written for retirees but can give you some things to think about and resources to do some additional research on different states: http://moneycentral.msn.com/content/retirementandwills/p45875.asp The other problem is that things don't stay the same forever. My state (Washington) which has the same budget problems most other states do at the moment has looked and the "wealthy" airplane owners who are not paying their "fair share" of taxes and is proposing to add a huge use tax to aircraft this year. Florida (where I have lived twice) is great and I'm considering living there again at least part time has incredibly low taxes. Unfortunately since taxes have been chopped to unsustainable levels, and there is not adequate revenue to support what little government services there are there, at some point in the near future things are likely to change dramatically for the worse. I think finding a place friendly to aviation with good flying weather may drive the decision. DavidB RV6 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: EAA 21 Club Fly-In Lunch
**Our EAA Chapter is pleased to announce the opening of EAA 21 Club. We will be preparing Hamburgers, Brats and Hot Dogs for all that fly-in. Just as New York's 21 Club has become known as the HAPPENING PLACE to be and be seen, EAA 21 Club is the place to be on the first Saturday (with a couple of exceptions) each month. When: April 3, May 1, June 5, July 10, August 14, September 4, October 2 10:00 AM till 2:00 PM Central time Where: Henderson Kentucky City-County Airport (KEHR) If KEHR is VFR then we are grilling the best gourmet hamburgers, brats and hot dogs this side of Sporty's for all that fly or drive in.. Steve Eberhart Program Chairman EAA Chapter 21 Evansvile, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 17, 2010
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Taxes
How is the humidity in that area? I can handle moderately cold winters with light snow or humid summers but not both!=0A=0A Scott=0ARV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Bret Smith <smithhb(at)tds.n et>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, March 17, 2010 6:16:24 PM=0ASu bject: RE: RV-List: Taxes=0A=0A =0AChuck,=0A =0AI live in GA near the TN/NC border and keep my plane at=0ACopperhill, TN (1A3). Beautiful country and close to both Chattanooga and=0AAtlanta. Lots of Florida retirees here wi th hiking, camping and fly fishing=0Astreams everywhere. We have an active EAA Chapter nearby (www.eaa1211.org). Why not visit and stay with=0Aus to get a feel for the area.=0A =0A =0ABret Smith=0ARV-9A N16BL=0ABlue Ridge, GA=0Awww.FlightInnovations.com=0A =0A =0A =0AFrom:owner-rv-list-server@matr onics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant=0ASent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 6:52 PM=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.co m=0ASubject: RE: RV-List: Taxes=0A =0ADavid,=0AThanks so much for your word s of wisdom. How right you are=0Aabout not reducing ones income to avoid t axes. I am recently retired but=0Ahave numerous modest investments (stocks , real estate, and two=0Aairplanes). I received some correspondence from a developer/pilot in=0ATennessee. TN is 49th in state taxes with Alaska (pe troleum=0Arich) being 50th. That is good. =0A =0AMy wife and I spent some time in TN two years ago and loved it=0Athere. Don=99t know what it would be like to live there though. Well,=0Awe don=99t have to make a decision immediately, so will continue to gather more=0Ainfo. =0A =0AAg ain thanks for you words of wisdom. They=99re greatly=0Aappreciated, =0AChuck=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A =0AFrom:owner-rv-list -server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On=0ABeha lf Of d-burton(at)comcast.net=0ASent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:43 AM=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Taxes=0A =0AIt=0Awill make a huge difference what your personal situation is. Are you=0Aworking? Do yo u have substantial investments? Income? Own a=0Ahome? A business?=0A=0AWe all pay on average about 42% of our income in taxes each year. (Not=0Ainc ome taxes. All taxes in total). Everybody in developed countries=0Adoes. This comes as a big surprise to most people. =0A=0AYou can look at your pe rsonal situation and find the best way to maximize your=0Aincome and minimi ze your tax obligation. Just be careful that you don't=0Afigure out how to pay a tiny amount of tax at the expense of earning a tiny=0Aamount of mone y. What is important at the end of the day is what remains=0Ain your pocke t... =0A=0AThis article was written for retirees but can give you some thi ngs to think=0Aabout and resources to do some additional research on differ ent states:=0A=0Ahttp://moneycentral.msn.com/content/retirementandwills/p45 875.asp=0A=0AThe other problem is that things don't stay the same forever. My state=0A(Washington) which has the same budget problems most other stat es do at the=0Amoment has looked and the "wealthy" airplane owners who are not=0Apaying their "fair share" of taxes and is proposing to add a huge use =0Atax to aircraft this year. =0A=0AFlorida (where I have lived twice) is great and I'm considering living there=0Aagain at least part time has incre dibly low taxes. Unfortunately since=0Ataxes have been chopped to unsustai nable levels, and there is not adequate=0Arevenue to support what little go vernment services there are there, at some=0Apoint in the near future thing s are likely to change dramatically for the=0Aworse. =0A=0AI think findin g a place friendly to aviation with good flying weather may drive=0Athe dec ision. =0A=0ADavidB=0ARV6=0A =0A =0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Ahref="http:// forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matr onics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c=0A =0A =0Ahttp://www.m atronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.m =========================0A ==0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Taxes
From: "N38CW" <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Mar 18, 2010
I believe Walt resides here... http://www.hensleyairpark.com/index.html [quote="JohnInReno"]I think this is an interesting thread. Walt, I can't seem to find any pointers to the park that you are talking about. Can you repost the website and or airport identifier? john rveighta(at)comcast.net (rveighta(at)comcast.net) wrote: > p { margin: 0; } > Chuck, I forwarded your first message to the developer of my airpark, Ted Hensley. Good to hear he responded to you. Like you > I'm retired (DuPont), and have lived in about a dozen states plus five foreign countries. And I like Tennessee the best. Why? > Because it's has the lowest cost of living of any place I've been, the eastern part where I live has spectacular mountain views (5,000' > peaks 4 miles from the runway), the people are friendly and we have a wide diversity of pilots here at the airpark. > > Most pilots are retired, but one is a medivac helo pilot and another flies for Delta. We have a stearman, two J-3's and several RV's (7A, > 7, 9A and the tail section of an RV-12 which I'm building). Most of the pilots are from other states - Florida, Mississippi, Virginia, > New Jersey, Texas and one from California. > > Check out our website and see what you think. If I can be of any help, give me a shout...... > > Walt Shipley (423) 257-6566 > > > > > > [b] -------- Bill Settle RV-8 Wings (Still) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=290724#290724 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "cheathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: re places flyer frendly
Date: Mar 18, 2010
I live in Fayetteville, Ar. Flying weather here isnt the best, but far superior to the SE. I left Atl Ga area because flying weater was ger\nerally poor.(along with high crime rate and terrible trafic) Many mornings waioting till maybe 10 am to get vfr out of LZU. Haze so bad in summer, along with polution. Re tax in Doraville, was over $4000 on $150K. Flying weather very good I understand, in the western states, but I need trees and streams to be happy. Charles Heathco ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Comparison shopping, was taxes
Date: Mar 18, 2010
You know, this discussion is really interesting and valuable. Given the geographic, demographic, and talent diversity on this list, it seems like we should be able to pool info and experience for a spreadsheet that would allow folks to objectively look at the financial implications of aircraft ownership by state, pre- and post-retirement. If we have someone with the right savvy who would find that an interesting exercise, surely we have members that can fill in the appropriate rates for all 50 states. What an interesting planning tool that would be. Thoughts? glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Taxes
From: Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Date: Mar 18, 2010
It's amazing how taxes are considered 100% negative in the US. You should try living in a place that has very little infrastructure (paid for by what else - taxes) like Haiti. 9% income taxes sounds like a dream to me. Europeans, Canadians and many others reading these posts must wonder where the average American thinks the highways, defence, good government and all those other things come from if it's not from sharing part of what you earn/have earned in the past to pay for it. Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec (Still paying tax on my pension, and wishing the highways were better and that it didn't take five hours in the ER to be seen by a doctor!). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Taxes
I've been following this thread with a look into different perspectives. High taxes are one thing ...... but the aesthetics are also important as Ian alluded to. I live in FL. It's so flat that it must have been ironed when it was installed. But I like mountains! What am I doing in FL??? Well, for 95% of the time I can fly on any day of the week. Sure, we have thunderstorms, hurricanes and tornadoes, but they don't stick around for weeks at a time. It could be a little cooler in the summer, little less humidity, or a little warmer in the winter ..... but notice I said 'little'. Not unbearable. I grouse about taxes only because it's wasted by the Gov't. I don't have state income tax in FL, but I pay taxes on the following: Federal income tax fuel (1-2 pennies locally plus fed excise tax) county general fund library mosquito control recreational tax (for parks etc) schools .... actually three different ones, and I don't have kids in school!) fire control law enforcement roads & bridges ..... in addition to the fuel taxes above a water management district that I can't get rid of Fl inland navigation district (the intracoastal is right next door) sebastian inlet district ..... access to the ocean is not too far away environmental endangered lands .... four separate taxes South Brevard recreation district ..... in addition to the rec tax above solid waste collection solid waste disposal stormwater control fee emergency medical service (part of our fire department above!) local water management district ..... and the two others above Which all comes to less than 2% of my property assessed value ..... not a real big deal. My Fed taxes, however, run in the 30% region because I have the income to enjoy my high priced hobby. This does rankle me, because of the waste and bloat of government and the crappy politics that it pays for. Having said all this ..... sorry if I bore you .... I'm still a whole lot better off than those in a lot of other well-developed countries. I still feel fortunate. However I also feel that there are things that need changing ..... and so I gripe about them. I doubt if utopia exists anywhere in my country (USA, if you haven't a foggiest idea of where Florida is), but I'm kinda happy where I am. Now, don't get me wrong .... I don't want y'all to move here .... we have enough of a problem with 'snowbirds' and hangar space is limited. Now, back to building .... Linn Ian wrote: > It's amazing how taxes are considered 100% negative in the US. You > should try living in a place that has very little infrastructure (paid > for by what else - taxes) like Haiti. 9% income taxes sounds like a > dream to me. Europeans, Canadians and many others reading these > posts must wonder where the average American thinks the highways, > defence, good government and all those other things come from if it's > not from sharing part of what you earn/have earned in the past to pay > for it. > Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec (Still paying tax on my pension, and > wishing the highways were better and that it didn't take five hours in > the ER to be seen by a doctor!). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2010
From: Mike Divan <n343fd(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Taxes
It is REALLY hard not to launch on this one. I will confine my comment to - The reason taxes are considered 100% negative is the "rugged individualism" that founded this country and the silly thought that what you earn actually belongs to you and not the guy that wants to live off the fruit of his neighbors labor. It is our Constitution (wen followed) that allow us the freedom to work, build, fly and operate our wonderful little RV planes. Not Taxes. And speaking of RV planes - has any one retrofitted a EI engine monitor in a 6? Did the sub panel get in the way? Is the single unit OK or is the remote head a better choice? Plane is opened up for annual and I thought I would do a little up grade. Well depending on how much I owe in taxes on the 15th next month :) Mike Divan N64GH - RV6 (flying) http://n64gh.blogspot.com/ FREEDOM IS NOT FREE - THANK THE AMERICAN SOLDIER FOR YOURS! Remember it is the Soldier, Sailor, Airman, Marine and Coast Guard that guarantee your freedom NOT the "community organizer"! ________________________________ From: Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca> Sent: Thu, March 18, 2010 5:59:40 AM Subject: RV-List: Taxes It's amazing how taxes are considered 100% negative in the US. You should try living in a place that has very little infrastructure (paid for by what else - taxes) like Haiti. 9% income taxes sounds like a dream to me. Europeans, Canadians and many others reading these posts must wonder where the average American thinks the highways, defence, good government and all those other things come from if it's not from sharing part of what you earn/have earned in the past to pay for it. Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec (Still paying tax on my pension, and wishing the highways were better and that it didn't take five hours in the ER to be seen by a doctor!). ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 18, 2010
Subject: Re: Taxes
From: Ollie Washburn <ollies7s(at)gmail.com>
They missed our airpark (97FL) when the ironing was done. Ollie, Central FL On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > I've been following this thread with a look into different perspectives. > High taxes are one thing ...... but the aesthetics are also important as Ian > alluded to. I live in FL. It's so flat that it must have been ironed when > it was installed. But I like mountains! What am I doing in FL??? Well, > for 95% of the time I can fly on any day of the week. Sure, we have > thunderstorms, hurricanes and tornadoes, but they don't stick around for > weeks at a time. It could be a little cooler in the summer, little less > humidity, or a little warmer in the winter ..... but notice I said > 'little'. Not unbearable. > I grouse about taxes only because it's wasted by the Gov't. I don't have > state income tax in FL, but I pay taxes on the following: > > Federal income tax > fuel (1-2 pennies locally plus fed excise tax) > county general fund > library > mosquito control > recreational tax (for parks etc) > schools .... actually three different ones, and I don't have kids in > school!) > fire control > law enforcement > roads & bridges ..... in addition to the fuel taxes above > a water management district that I can't get rid of > Fl inland navigation district (the intracoastal is right next door) > sebastian inlet district ..... access to the ocean is not too far away > environmental endangered lands .... four separate taxes > South Brevard recreation district ..... in addition to the rec tax above > solid waste collection > solid waste disposal > stormwater control fee > emergency medical service (part of our fire department above!) > local water management district ..... and the two others above > > Which all comes to less than 2% of my property assessed value ..... not a > real big deal. > My Fed taxes, however, run in the 30% region because I have the income to > enjoy my high priced hobby. This does rankle me, because of the waste and > bloat of government and the crappy politics that it pays for. > Having said all this ..... sorry if I bore you .... I'm still a whole lot > better off than those in a lot of other well-developed countries. I still > feel fortunate. However I also feel that there are things that need > changing ..... and so I gripe about them. I doubt if utopia exists anywhere > in my country (USA, if you haven't a foggiest idea of where Florida is), but > I'm kinda happy where I am. > Now, don't get me wrong .... I don't want y'all to move here .... we have > enough of a problem with 'snowbirds' and hangar space is limited. > Now, back to building .... > Linn > > > Ian wrote: > > It's amazing how taxes are considered 100% negative in the US. You should > try living in a place that has very little infrastructure (paid for by what > else - taxes) like Haiti. 9% income taxes sounds like a dream to me. > Europeans, Canadians and many others reading these posts must wonder where > the average American thinks the highways, defence, good government and all > those other things come from if it's not from sharing part of what you > earn/have earned in the past to pay for it. > Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec (Still paying tax on my pension, and wishing the > highways were better and that it didn't take five hours in the ER to be seen > by a doctor!). > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: TaxesTaxesTaxesTaxes
Date: Mar 18, 2010
Chuck, I live near Nashville and hanger at KMQY Smyrna TN. Several RV's park there and there a lots in the area close by. Hanger space is a premium however. I can say that TN does not have a state income tax but they do have a Hall Tax that taxes interest and dividends at 6%, but there is a personal exemption and there are lots of types of interest income that are tax exempt (I'm not a tax advisor). Property taxes are lower than other places I've live. I do like the Chattanooga area and 1A3 may be something I should look at! Marty RV-6A just about ready for inspection. From: "Chuck Weyant" Subject: Taxes Wooee. Thanks for the invite. Who knows, just might do that. How's taxes, etc., in GA? Chuck _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bret Smith Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 6:16 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes Chuck, I live in GA near the TN/NC border and keep my plane at Copperhill, TN (1A3). Beautiful country and close to both Chattanooga and Atlanta. Lots of Florida retirees here with hiking, camping and fly fishing streams everywhere. We have an active EAA Chapter nearby (www.eaa1211.org). Why not visit and stay with us to get a feel for the area. Bret Smith RV-9A N16BL Blue Ridge, GA www.FlightInnovations.com From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 6:52 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes David, Thanks so much for your words of wisdom. How right you are about not reducing ones income to avoid taxes. I am recently retired but have numerous modest investments (stocks, real estate, and two airplanes). I received some correspondence from a developer/pilot in Tennessee. TN is 49th in state taxes with Alaska (petroleum rich) being 50th. That is good. My wife and I spent some time in TN two years ago and loved it there. Don't know what it would be like to live there though. Well, we don't have to make a decision immediately, so will continue to gather more info. Again thanks for you words of wisdom. They're greatly appreciated, Chuck _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of d-burton(at)comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:43 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Taxes It will make a huge difference what your personal situation is. Are you working? Do you have substantial investments? Income? Own a home? A business? We all pay on average about 42% of our income in taxes each year. (Not income taxes. All taxes in total). Everybody in developed countries does. This comes as a big surprise to most people. You can look at your personal situation and find the best way to maximize your income and minimize your tax obligation. Just be careful that you don't figure out how to pay a tiny amount of tax at the expense of earning a tiny amount of money. What is important at the end of the day is what remains in your pocket... This article was written for retirees but can give you some things to think about and resources to do some additional research on different states: http://moneycentral.msn.com/content/retirementandwills/p45875.asp The other problem is that things don't stay the same forever. My state (Washington) which has the same budget problems most other states do at the moment has looked and the "wealthy" airplane owners who are not paying their "fair share" of taxes and is proposing to add a huge use tax to aircraft this year. Florida (where I have lived twice) is great and I'm considering living there again at least part time has incredibly low taxes. Unfortunately since taxes have been chopped to unsustainable levels, and there is not adequate revenue to support what little government services there are there, at some point in the near future things are likely to change dramatically for the worse. I think finding a place friendly to aviation with good flying weather may drive the decision. DavidB RV6 href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Taxes
Date: Mar 18, 2010
OK, I can't resist. I see a lot of folks on here talking taxes who I KNOW worked for companies that got government contracts... otherrs who I know are living off a pension after working for government for 20 years (I don't so I'm still working), or got an education on the GI bill -- before which, by the way, it was unusual to own a home. The airports we fly in and out of ? Taxes. Look, I'm not that interested in getting into a stupid talk radio discussion on taxes. I'm sure ther'es plenty of waste in government spending just as there is in family spending. But our food supply is healthy, we can get anywhere we want in the world on a great infrastructure, our kids aren't crapping in the streets because there's no running water or sewer, the quality of life via parks and trails is outstanding, I got educated thanks to people who paid their taxes who realized that me being educated and productive was a valuable investment. We've got it good. Stop whining like a bunch of spoiled babies and come over and help me on the cowling. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 19, 2010
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Taxes
=C2- The bigger the government the more it costs and the less individual freedom. This country was founded as,=C2-and still is a republic. Our con stitution will win the battle=C2-in the end. =C2-=C2-=C2-I agree let's go flying and enjoy the summer because=C2 -come November the socialism in Washington will be only a memory. Off to the airport! =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Tom in Ohio=C2- ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 6:29:03 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes OK, I can't resist. I see a lot of folks on here talking taxes who I KNOW w orked for companies that got government contracts... otherrs who I know are living off a pension after working for government for 20 years (I don't so I'm still working), or got an education on the GI bill -- before which,=C2 - by the way, it was unusual to own a home. The airports we fly in and out of ? Taxes. Look, I'm not that interested in getting into a stupid talk radio discussio n on taxes. I'm sure ther'es plenty of waste in government spending just as there is in family spending. But our food supply is healthy, we can get an ywhere we want in the world on a great infrastructure, our kids aren't crap ping in the streets because there's no running water or sewer, the quality of life via parks and trails is outstanding, I got educated thanks to peopl e who paid their taxes who realized that me being educated and productive w as a valuable investment. We've got it good. Stop whining like a bunch of spoiled=C2-babies and com e over and help me on the cowling. ====== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph & Maria Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Taxes
Date: Mar 19, 2010
Me neither. So just as this thread is winding down, I'll post my thoughts to wind it up again. To keep it barely aircraft related I'll start with places to live to fly airplanes. I've traveled some and surely California, and Northern California where I am, is one of the best overall places for a pilot to live: great weather for 8 to 9 months of the year, little freezing weather unless you live far up the mountains, very few thunderstorms. The coast gets its stratus fog dependably, but I took my primary training decades ago in San Jose and don't recall it being a problem. The scenery is fantastic and with an RV you can reach the ocean, mountains, cities and desert within just 2 to 4 hours flight. To be sure the cost of living is high here, though not really from taxes. Housing in particular is higher than most places in the Union. Taxes are a bit complicated. Once you buy a property, your property taxes can only increase max at 2%/year, so if you don't move you gradually enjoy lower and lower property tax, relative to inflation. Businesses take advantage of this with very low property taxes using a legal scam: they create a small corporation and register the corp as the property owner. Should they want to sell to another business they merely change the directors of the corp. Since the property continues to be owned by the same corp the property value is not reassessed. Other taxes are higher, California has both sales and income tax. However I've seen statistics that place overall CA taxes in the middle of the states, presumably because of the long-term low property taxes. But are state taxes the biggest expense one has? I doubt it. For instance, the March 2010 Aviation Consumer magazine editorial reports that data/chart update costs for a GNS 480 and GMX 200 is $1300/year..for data that the government provides to the private companies like Garmin for free. OK, most RV'ers won't have that equipment, but the point is that by far most of my and others' expenses involve commercial products, not state taxes. So, most people griping about state taxes and saying they're going to move are actually unhappy about their social or political surroundings. By all means, don't stay in a place you're not happy living in. Me, I'm happy in N. California. I just got back from London and Barcelona. Great places both but every time I travel I am so grateful to return to California. I live in a university town with a local airport 10 minutes drive away. My airplanes buddies are a molecular research biologist, a civil engineer, a successful businessman, etc. All have extensively traveled and most speak a second language, as I do. I'd never find this overall aviation experience elsewhere, and I've never seriously consider living anywhere else. Ralph Finch Davis, California RV-9A QB-SA From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 3:29 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Taxes OK, I can't resist ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dropped price - RV6 For Sale
Date: Mar 20, 2010
From: rv6160hp(at)aol.com
OK so here it is...$48,000 Pursuing to sell this spring-summer...... 7 more years of sons college tuition and otherexpenses motivating the sale . Dropped price to $48,000 due to someinquiries as everyone wants to know ho w low will I go so there it is. Offering here it to everyone. I would gladly email or phone discuss candidly any & all details with anyo ne who would like ask. Regards David ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2010
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Dropped price - RV6 For Sale
On 3/20/2010 10:35 AM, rv6160hp(at)aol.com wrote: > OK so here it is...$48,000 > > Pursuing to sell this spring-summer...... > 7 more years of sons college tuition and other expenses motivating the > sale. > Dropped price to $48,000 due to some inquiries as everyone wants to > know how low will I go so there it is. > Offering here it to everyone. > > I would gladly email or phone discuss candidly any & all details with > anyone who would like ask. > > Regards > David It might be helpful to specify what you're selling, and include features, details, etc. There's a lot of stuff out there for sale; pretty tough for the market to remember every item. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 20, 2010
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: Dropped price - RV6 For Sale
It was in the pdf file that was attached to the original message.... Charlie England wrote: > It might be helpful to specify what you're selling, and include > features, details, etc. There's a lot of stuff out there for sale; > pretty tough for the market to remember every item. > > -- Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4 Gotta Fly or Gonna Die ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Dropped price - RV6 For Sale
Date: Mar 20, 2010
From: rv6160hp(at)aol.com
I am sorry there was an small PDF attachment... But perhaps some emails strip it so all may not see it ... I can send that PDF direct to those who email me their email address reque sting. Brief summary: Nov 1999 1st flight. RV6, Tip Up, 285 TTAF, 285 SNEW Prop metal Sensinich + B&C Starter and OEM mech fuel pump. Used Certified Lycoming 0320H2AD with 1785 SMOH (its - 1st with new cyls then I believe). Has data plaque cert installed, all the yellow tags & logs for engine too. No damage history, never been down or been a problem with it. KLX 135A Nav/Com- GPS moving map. Coupled to a NavAir A/P. Mode C KT76A Transponder. Day Night VFR, Aerobatic certified, although never used that way. Buzz words would include: Phlogistons Spar, Barnard CNC components through -out. Andair selector & gascolator, Vetterman Exhaust, Dj Laurtitsen interior, 5 point harness. Thanks David -----Original Message----- From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Sat, Mar 20, 2010 12:02 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropped price - RV6 For Sale On 3/20/2010 10:35 AM, rv6160hp(at)aol.com wrote: > OK so here it is...$48,000 > > Pursuing to sell this spring-summer...... > 7 more years of sons college tuition and other expenses motivating the > sale. > Dropped price to $48,000 due to some inquiries as everyone wants to > kn ow how low will I go so there it is. > Offering here it to everyone. > > I would gladly email or phone discuss candidly any & all details with > anyone who would like ask. > > Regards > David It might be helpful to specify what you're selling, and include features, details, etc. There's a lot of stuff out there for sale; pretty tough for the market to remember every item. ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: EPI 800 for Sale on Ebay
Date: Mar 23, 2010
Posting this on behalf of a friend for benefit of RV list members Neil Kruiswyk In case anyone is interested, I have a Vision Microsystems EPI-800 complete system for sale on eBay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vision-Microsystems-EPI-800-engine-monitor-gu ages_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eabe60656QQitemZ200452474454QQptZMotorsQ5fA viationQ5fPartsQ5fGear or search for EPI 800. Ed Anderson Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com <http://www.andersonee.com> http://www.andersonee.com <http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html http://www.flyrotary.com/ <http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW http://www.rotaryaviation.com/Rotorhead%20Truth.htm <http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2010
Subject: Petition to remove 3rd class medical for less that 6000 lbs Gross
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
FellowRV'ers: Dave Wartofsky,my local airport owner has put up a petition to allow for flying aircraft with max gross less than 6000 lbs with a drivers license as a medical. Think of light sport without all the slow and light. This would include all RV's. As you can imagine, owning a Functioning airport that is 10 miles from theWashingtonMonumentthe guy has a pretty good track record getting things pastgovernmentbureaucracy. If you check out his airports web page you'll see he isn't shy about it either. So, now on the docketto revitalize GA industry,and reduce impediments and economic impacts,a formal petition for rulemaking (with SecDot)to amend the 3rd class medical(not for commercial ops) only to be required for aircraft over 6,000 lbs(only when public threat is greater than any auto) Lots of logical analysis why. See petition online. A driver's license and BFR's (and insurance rates)will catch the old fogeysbefore they get dangerous to others. Dave is trying to get as many comments as possibleto force rulemaking action: Document http://www.regulations.gov/search/Regs/contentStreamer?objectId0000648099d311&disposition=attachment&contentType=pdf Petition for comment http://www.regulations.gov/search/Regs/home.html#submitComment?R0000648099d311 Goals: Revitalize GA Reduce impacts Logical step to economic recovery I put in comments as follows: " Mr. Wartofsky's argument for relaxation of the medical standards is sound. With light sport, the acknowledgement that small aircraft and cars require similar physical fitness standards for operation has been made and insurers have endorsed this acknowledgement. 6000 lbs max gross take off weight appropriately limits the damage one can do to both persons on the ground and the number of passengers that can be carried. Limiting to non commercial operations prevents any undue pressure to avoid loss of compensation from not flying. As regulators, you too can protect and expand our freedoms as much as our warfighters in Iraq and Afghanistan by removing encumbrances to the free will of the people. " So get going - FAA 2009-0481 These links avail onwww.potomac-airfield.com Thanks, Bill judge, RV-8, N84WJ 450 Hrs rv-8.blogspot.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 23, 2010
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: Petition to remove 3rd class medical for less that 6000
lbs Gross I wish him luck. I'd love to see something like this happen... Bill Judge wrote: > > Fellow RV'ers: > > Dave Wartofsky, my local airport owner has put up a petition to allow > for flying aircraft with max gross less than 6000 lbs with a drivers > license as a medical. Think of light sport without all the slow and > light. This would include all RV's. > > As you can imagine, owning a Functioning airport that is 10 miles from > the Washington Monument the guy has a pretty good track record getting > things past government bureaucracy. If you check out his airports web > page you'll see he isn't shy about it either. > > So, now on the docket to revitalize GA industry, and reduce > impediments and economic impacts, a formal petition for rulemaking > (with SecDot) to amend the 3rd class medical (not for commercial ops) > only to be required for aircraft over 6,000 lbs (only when public > threat is greater than any auto) > > Lots of logical analysis why. See petition online. A driver's license > and BFR's (and insurance rates) will catch the old fogeys before they > get dangerous to others. > > Dave is trying to get as many comments as possible to force rulemaking action: > > Document > http://www.regulations.gov/search/Regs/contentStreamer?objectId0000648099d311&disposition=attachment&contentType=pdf > > Petition for comment > http://www.regulations.gov/search/Regs/home.html#submitComment?R0000648099d311 > > Goals: > Revitalize GA > Reduce impacts > Logical step to economic recovery > > I put in comments as follows: > " > Mr. Wartofsky's argument for relaxation of the medical standards is > sound. With light sport, the acknowledgement that small aircraft and > cars require similar physical fitness standards for operation has been > made and insurers have endorsed this acknowledgement. 6000 lbs max > gross take off weight appropriately limits the damage one can do to > both persons on the ground and the number of passengers that can be > carried. Limiting to non commercial operations prevents any undue > pressure to avoid loss of compensation from not flying. As > regulators, you too can protect and expand our freedoms as much as our > warfighters in Iraq and Afghanistan by removing encumbrances to the > free will of the people. > " > > So get going - FAA 2009-0481 > > These links avail on www.potomac-airfield.com > > Thanks, > Bill judge, RV-8, N84WJ 450 Hrs > rv-8.blogspot.com > > > -- Scott http://corbenflyer.tripod.com/ Flying Corben Junior Ace - Building RV-4 Gotta Fly or Gonna Die ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 3rd class medical
Date: Mar 25, 2010
Fellow RVers: I hate to tell you this but the AOPA has already been there, only they petitioned to get rid of the medical requirement for private pilots (ie. Third class medical certificate would be no more). This was about 10-12 years ago and they almost succeeded. The FAA had the new rule up for comment and they actually were going implement it. Only problem was....comments from concerned citizens who were worried about pilots falling out of the sky on them. That was enough to kill the new rule and it was put on indefinite hold. So.....it's a nobel effort and I'm all for it but.....being society is getting more risk averse, not less and the government is getting more controlling, not less...I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for it to happen. It's worth a try though. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Flying in FL ________________________Original Message______________________________ Subject: Petition to remove 3rd class medical for less that 6000 lbs Gross From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com> FellowRV'ers: Dave Wartofsky,my local airport owner has put up a petition to allow for flying aircraft with max gross less than 6000 lbs with a drivers license as a medical. Think of light sport without all the slow and light. This would include all RV's. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 25, 2010
Subject: ADI II Improvements?
From: J Riffel <riffeljl(at)gmail.com>
I'm curious if others who have the ADI II feel as I do? I selected the ADI II because it gave me a LOT of function in one hole; maximizing my RV7A panel space utilization. My GNS430/ADI II combo is Absolutely Terrific! It does a Great Job of reducing my workload, flying routes and the approach course. I knew it wouldn't fly descents when I bought it - and thought it would be very simple to turn altitude hold off, reduce power and go down the glide slope. And I was right, it's pretty easy. But like any builder/engineer who typically wants to make things better, I've always wondered why my ADI II doesn't fly down the glide slope sent by my GNS430. The 430 is sending the info, the ADI is capable of climbing/descending (via the ALT knob). So why does it ignore the 430 glide slope signals? I've got to believe it'd be natural (terrific and simple?) upgrade that would seem to have a pretty good market. I'd certainly upgrade (for a reasonable $$), and can only assume others would too. Not only that, but it'd be a great safety net for my non-flying wife. I've tried to design a set of procedures for her if I became incapacitated during flight. I can create a checklist that describes how to push buttons on the autopilot & 430 - and she can do that. But flying the descent to the airport is where it really gets dicey for a non-pilot ... a deadly stall is all too probable. If the ADI II would fly an ILS / GPS glide slope, then all she has to do is push a few buttons to get down to the runway. Then if she pulls the power off and hits the brakes she'll probably get us both on the ground. But whatever happened on the ground would certainly be better than an arrival stall from x,000 feet ! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: TCW product availability
Date: Mar 25, 2010
Fellow builders, Our new product, Integrated Back-up Battery System (IBBS) is now available and in stock. This new product provides back-up power for critical electronics in one simple and easy to install package. IBBS combines a Ni-mh battery pack, charging and switching circuitry in one convenient package for easy installation that weighs 1/2 of lead acid battery solutions. IBBS has been designed to provide back-up power to EFIS, Engine monitors, GPS and Auto-pilot systems. For those going to Sun-n-Fun we will have a working demo of IBBS as well as all of the other TCW products for you to see first hand. All the details are available at: www.tcwtech.com Thanks, Bob Newman RV-10 40176 TCW Technologies, LLC. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Oshkosh RV Builders Family Reunion - Piece of Grass 2010
From: "bcollinsmn" <bob(at)rvbuildershotline.com>
Date: Mar 26, 2010
When is it too early to plan for the 6th sort-of annual RV get-together at Oshkosh? It's never too early. The now-traditional Wednesday evening get-together will repeat last year's theme of simplicity and grassroots "hanging around," although there's a rumor there'll be either a Hawaiian shirt or Spotted Cow theme. We're hoping to be able to buy enough campsites to give us room to stretch out. EAA has raised the per-day camping rates again, however. But we'll buy as many as we can with what people donate. All the details of this year's event can be found at: http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/ Note: I'm looking for RSVPs yet. That'll come in June. -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV-7A - Running wires http://rvbuildershotline.com Day job: http://minnesota.publicradio.org/collections/special/columns/news_cut/ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=291789#291789 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rquinn1(at)aol.com
Date: Mar 27, 2010
Subject: (no subject)
RVers has any one used the new Van's fuel tank sealant along with pro seal? We need to repair a fuel tank leak and we are considering just patching the old pro seal with the new sealant . Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rollie and Rod RV 6A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 27, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: (no subject)
I guess I don't know what Van's used to use. The Flamemaster sealant they currently sell has been around for at least since before Van's first aircraft, used in Mooneys and other wet wings. On 3/27/2010 5:34 PM, Rquinn1(at)aol.com wrote: > RVers has any one used the new Van's fuel tank sealant along with pro > seal? We need to repair a fuel tank leak and we are considering just > patching the old pro seal with the new sealant . > Any advice will be greatly appreciated. > Thanks > Rollie and Rod > RV 6A > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
Dear Listers, Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-( If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use? About all I could find on ACS was this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-) Feedback would be most appreciated. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 28, 2010
From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
I used-red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In serv ice for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. - [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray(at)glasair.org>
Subject: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
Date: Mar 28, 2010
I'd fly the airplane first to see if I had any cylinder temp problems. If I did then I would go with the RTV. Bruce www.Glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:58 PM Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
Date: Mar 28, 2010
Necessary? Maybe yes maybe no. If your engine runs hot=2C it is necessary. If your engine runs cold=2C maybe not. I used BLACK Permatex Silicone from PepBoys. My baffles are painted black and so is my engine. I know guys that have used bath tube or kitchen RTV. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C342+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 09:23:59 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list@matronics .com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > > Dear Listers=2C > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baff le-to-engine areas=2C what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolute ly necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installatio n. :-( > > If it is an absolute requirement=2C what are some suggestions on material to use? > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... =3B-) > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog > Moved to hanger=2C wings attached permanently.... > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...
Date: Mar 28, 2010
I also used red, high temp RTV---I sorta like the purdy red color. I also put louvers on the bottom of the lower cowl to aid in cooling --- probably was over kill as the engine runs very cool even in climb on hot days. dave On Mar 28, 2010, at 11:58 AM, Rick Galati wrote: > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Date: Mar 29, 2010
Subject: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures
SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-( If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use? SNIP ******************************************************************************************************* Air leaks = more drag. How fast do you want to go. I've got red silicone plugging every air leak that I can find and I've never, ever had anyone comment on how the silicone looks when I roar past them. It may not be pretty but it WORKS. FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot. For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings. Vince www.flyboyaccessories.com www.vincesrocket.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures
Be very careful what you seal up. #2 and #3 cylinders MUST have air on the intake port side, which is the side against the baffles. You need a minimum 1/8" gap between cylinder head and baffle there, probably 3/16 would be better. Lycoming does not cast any fins on the cylinder head on the intake port side. If you seal that, your cylinder will run 40-50 degrees hotter. It is a well known issue with Lycoming engines. Kelly A&P/IA On 3/29/2010 7:08 AM, Frazier, Vincent A wrote: > SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary? > FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot. > > For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm > The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings. > > Vince > www.flyboyaccessories.com > www.vincesrocket.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures
Another well-known issue is the flashing down between the fins around the spark plug. Take the flashlight (see Vince below) or a droplight and put below the cylinder and look down between the fins. A small needle file will clean up the flashing. I've also heard of people using a drywall cutting bit in there. Linn Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Be very careful what you seal up. #2 and #3 cylinders MUST have air on > the intake port side, which is the side against the baffles. You need > a minimum 1/8" gap between cylinder head and baffle there, probably > 3/16 would be better. Lycoming does not cast any fins on the cylinder > head on the intake port side. If you seal that, your cylinder will run > 40-50 degrees hotter. It is a well known issue with Lycoming engines. > Kelly > A&P/IA > On 3/29/2010 7:08 AM, Frazier, Vincent A wrote: > >> SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around >> the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is >> sealant absolutely necessary? > >> FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom >> aft edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is >> often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back >> under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet >> you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this >> is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot. >> >> For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see >> http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm >> The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings. >> >> Vince >> www.flyboyaccessories.com >> www.vincesrocket.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures
Date: Mar 29, 2010
For the 'would be' show quality builders, {[;-) With a little extra care and attention to detail using masking tape and an exacto blade the RTV can be done very neatly. I bought a roll of the blue silicone baffle seal material. It is extra cost but worth every dime spent. The blue automotive RTV gasket sealer color matches and bonds very well to the baffle seal material. Have a look at the Firewall forward section at; http://www3.telus.net/public/a6a36537/index.htm It only took a day or so to get all the blue stuff off the finger tips. I can supply close ups, Jim in Kelowna -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent A Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 7:08 AM Subject: RV-List: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-( If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use? SNIP **************************************************************************** *************************** Air leaks = more drag. How fast do you want to go. I've got red silicone plugging every air leak that I can find and I've never, ever had anyone comment on how the silicone looks when I roar past them. It may not be pretty but it WORKS. FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot. For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see http://www.vincesrocket..com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings. Vince www.flyboyaccessories.com www.vincesrocket.com ====== Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.14660) http://www.pctools.com/ ====== ====== Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.14660) http://www.pctools.com/ ====== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: Tony Speranza <asperanz(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10
- I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+ years...I have tried everything.- Stock RV cowling & exhaust installation: TMX-O360 180hp-with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag.- I can see CHT's in 430F rang e or much higher if I did NOT manage power.- Mixture & timing correct.- Openned up intake & exhaust areas.- Resealed w/silicone material (replac ed black stuff) - tight fit.- Plugged all the little holes w/red RTV.- Sealed & recontoured in-let ramps.- Spark plugs the coolest offered...I a m measureing with Dynon FlightDek 180 and-all TCs-match-exactly & agr ee with ambient temperature (0 to 100 F).- Everyone that looks at it says "looks good, shold cool OK?".- I am running out of ideas and would appre ciate any feedback or ideas.- Thanks...Tony --- On Mon, 3/29/10, RV-List Digest Server wrote: From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 Date: Monday, March 29, 2010, 2:59 AM * ======================== ---Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ======================== Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: - - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View =html&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV Text Version: - - http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View =txt&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV ====================== ---EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive ====================== - - - - ----------------------------------------------------- -------- - - - - - - - - - - - - ---RV-List Digest Arc hive - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --- - - - - - - - - - ---Total Messages Posted Sun 03/2 8/10: 5 - - - - ----------------------------------------------------- -------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- - ---1. 09:25 AM - Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Matt Dralle ) - ---2. 12:00 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Rick Ga lati) - ---3. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Bru ce Gray) - ---4. 12:25 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (RV6 Fly er) - ---5. 07:20 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles...- (Dav id Cudney) ________________________________- Message 1- __________________________ ___________ From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... Dear Listers, Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baffle -to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here?- Is sealant absolutely necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation.- :-( If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to use? About all I could find on ACS was this: -----http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-) Feedback would be most appreciated. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently.... ________________________________- Message 2- __________________________ ___________ From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... I used-red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In serv ice for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. - [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] ________________________________- Message 3- __________________________ ___________ From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray(at)glasair.org> Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... I'd fly the airplane first to see if I had any cylinder temp problems. If I did then I would go with the RTV. Bruce www.Glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:58 PM Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] ________________________________- Message 4- __________________________ ___________ From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... Necessary?- Maybe yes maybe no. If your engine runs hot=2C it is necess ary. If your engine runs cold=2C maybe not. I used BLACK Permatex Silicone from PepBoys.- My baffles are painted blac k and so is my engine.- I know guys that have used bath tube or kitchen RTV . Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C342+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 09:23:59 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list@matro nics .com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > > Dear Listers=2C > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baff le-to-engine areas=2C what is the recommendation here?- Is sealant abso lute ly necessary?- Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installat io n.- :-( > > If it is an absolute requirement=2C what are some suggestions on materi al to use? > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > -----http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... =3B-) > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog > Moved to hanger=2C wings attached permanently.... > > > > > --- -------- ------ --- - _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 ________________________________- Message 5- __________________________ ___________ From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... I also used red, high temp RTV---I sorta like the purdy red color.- I- also put louvers on the bottom of the lower cowl to aid in cooling ---- probably was over kill as the engine runs very cool even in climb on- hot days. dave On Mar 28, 2010, at 11:58 AM, Rick Galati wrote: > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In- > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > le, List Admin. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2010
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I had a similar setup and similar temps. Never really found a 'cure', I just managed it. Do you stay WOT during the climb? Have you looked into rejetting the carb? -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 3:31 AM, Tony Speranza wrote: > > I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+ years...I > have tried everything. Stock RV cowling & exhaust installation: TMX-O360 > 180hp with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag. I can see CHT's in 430F range or > much higher if I did NOT manage power. Mixture & timing correct. Openned > up intake & exhaust areas. Resealed w/silicone material (replaced black > stuff) - tight fit. Plugged all the little holes w/red RTV. Sealed & > recontoured in-let ramps. Spark plugs the coolest offered...I am measureing > with Dynon FlightDek 180 and all TCs match exactly & agree with ambient > temperature (0 to 100 F). Everyone that looks at it says "looks good, shold > cool OK?". I am running out of ideas and would appreciate any feedback or > ideas. Thanks...Tony > > --- On *Mon, 3/29/10, RV-List Digest Server *wrote: > > > From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 > To: "RV-List Digest List" > Date: Monday, March 29, 2010, 2:59 AM > > * > > ======================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ======================== > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV > > > ====================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ====================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sun 03/28/10: 5 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 09:25 AM - Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Matt Dralle) > 2. 12:00 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Rick Galati) > 3. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Bruce Gray) > 4. 12:25 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (RV6 Flyer) > 5. 07:20 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (David Cudney) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=dralle@matronics.com> > > > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > Dear Listers, > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the > baffle-to-engine > areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary? > Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-( > > If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on material to > use? > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-) > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog > Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently.... > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rick6a@yahoo.com> > > > Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > I used-red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In serv > ice for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > - > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray@glasair.org<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bgray@glasair.org> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > I'd fly the airplane first to see if I had any cylinder temp problems. > If I did then I would go with the RTV. > > Bruce > www.Glasair.org > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>] > On Behalf Of Rick Galati > Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:58 PM > Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv6_flyer@hotmail.com> > > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > Necessary? Maybe yes maybe no. If your engine runs hot=2C it is necessary. > If your engine runs cold=2C maybe not. > > I used BLACK Permatex Silicone from PepBoys. My baffles are painted black > and so is my engine. I know guys that have used bath tube or kitchen RTV. > > > Gary A. Sobek > > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C > > 2=2C342+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > > > > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 09:23:59 -0700 > > To: rv-list@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv-list@matronics.com>=3B > rv7-list@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv7-list@matronics.com>=3B > rv8-list@matronics > .com > > From: dralle@matronics.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=dralle@matronics.com> > > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > > > > > > Dear Listers=2C > > > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the baff > le-to-engine areas=2C what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolute > ly necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installatio > n. :-( > > > > If it is an absolute requirement=2C what are some suggestions on material > to use? > > > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... =3B-) > > > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > > > Matt Dralle > > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog > > Moved to hanger=2C wings attached permanently.... > > > > > ========== > ========== > ========== > ========== > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:O > N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: David Cudney <yenduc@me.com<http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=yenduc@me.com> > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > I also used red, high temp RTV---I sorta like the purdy red color. I > also put louvers on the bottom of the lower cowl to aid in cooling --- > probably was over kill as the engine runs very cool even in climb on > hot days. > > dave > > > On Mar 28, 2010, at 11:58 AM, Rick Galati wrote: > > > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In > > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]<======================= > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > http://forums.matronbsp; - List Contribution Web Site -http://www > ====================== > > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 29, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: high CHTs
Start with the simple things ..... check for flashing between the fins around the spark plug .... place a light underneath the head and look down between the fins. best done when it's almost dark. A needle file will clean up the flashing. Check the sealing around the nose of the engine. The intake air can also go forward and exit through the spinner/cowl gap. Use a piece of foam pipe insulation fitted inside the cowl lip ..... the first time you start the engine it'll trim the foam so glue it in well. airflow efficiency ...... the differential pressures across the engine need to be 6 1/2 " H2O for an O-360. Rig a manometer (Google manometer if you don't know) and go fly. Balancing the inlet Vs outlet can cut down cooling drag along with getting the temps down. Also Google 'lycoming manometer' for far more reading than you want. Let us know what you find out. Linn Take a good look at the baffle seal around the nose of the engine. I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+ years...I have tried everything. Stock RV cowling & exhaust installation: TMX-O360 180hp with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag. I can see CHT's in 430F range or much higher if I did NOT manage power. Mixture & timing correct. Openned up intake & exhaust areas. Resealed w/silicone material (replaced black stuff) - tight fit. Plugged all the little holes w/red RTV. Sealed & recontoured in-let ramps. Spark plugs the coolest offered...I am measureing with Dynon FlightDek 180 and all TCs match exactly & agree with ambient temperature (0 to 100 F). Everyone that looks at it says "looks good, shold cool OK?". I am running out of ideas and would appreciate any feedback or ideas. Thanks...Tony ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10
Date: Mar 29, 2010
After you have sealed as much as you can --If you still have a cooling problem you, might consider louvers. Particularly if you have yet to paint the plane. I was worried about cooling with my io 360 so I built in louvers when I built my plane. It runs almost too cool -- I have to block about 80% of the oil cooler in the winter in SoCAL. No problem with heat even on hot, summer days at gross weight and climbing. good luck dave On Mar 29, 2010, at 7:31 PM, Tony Speranza wrote: > > I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+ > years...I have tried everything. Stock RV cowling & exhaust > installation: TMX-O360 180hp with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag. I > can see CHT's in 430F range or much higher if I did NOT manage > power. Mixture & timing correct. Openned up intake & exhaust > areas. Resealed w/silicone material (replaced black stuff) - tight > fit. Plugged all the little holes w/red RTV. Sealed & recontoured > in-let ramps. Spark plugs the coolest offered...I am measureing > with Dynon FlightDek 180 and all TCs match exactly & agree with > ambient temperature (0 to 100 F). Everyone that looks at it says > "looks good, shold cool OK?". I am running out of ideas and would > appreciate any feedback or ideas. Thanks...Tony > > --- On Mon, 3/29/10, RV-List Digest Server > wrote: > > From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 > To: "RV-List Digest List" > Date: Monday, March 29, 2010, 2:59 AM > > * > > ======================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ======================== > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked > Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII > version > of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV > > > ====================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ====================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sun 03/28/10: 5 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 09:25 AM - Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Matt Dralle) > 2. 12:00 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Rick Galati) > 3. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Bruce > Gray) > 4. 12:25 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (RV6 Flyer) > 5. 07:20 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (David > Cudney) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > Dear Listers, > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around the > baffle-to-engine > areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely > necessary? > Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-( > > If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on > material to use? > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-) > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog > Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently.... > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> > Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > I used-red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In > serv > ice for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > - > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray(at)glasair.org> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > I'd fly the airplane first to see if I had any cylinder temp problems. > If I did then I would go with the RTV. > > Bruce > www.Glasair.org > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Galati > Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:58 PM > Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > Necessary? Maybe yes maybe no. If your engine runs hot=2C it is > necessary. > If your engine runs cold=2C maybe not. > > I used BLACK Permatex Silicone from PepBoys. My baffles are painted > black > and so is my engine. I know guys that have used bath tube or > kitchen RTV. > > > Gary A. Sobek > > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C > > 2=2C342+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > > > > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 09:23:59 -0700 > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8- > list@matronics > .com > > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > > > > > > Dear Listers=2C > > > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around > the baff > le-to-engine areas=2C what is the recommendation here? Is sealant > absolute > ly necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the > installatio > n. :-( > > > > If it is an absolute requirement=2C what are some suggestions on > material > to use? > > > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... =3B-) > > > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > > > Matt Dralle > > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's Construction Blog > > Moved to hanger=2C wings attached permanently.... > > > > > ========== > ========== > ========== > ========== > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more > from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:O > N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > I also used red, high temp RTV---I sorta like the purdy red color. I > also put louvers on the bottom of the lower cowl to aid in cooling --- > probably was over kill as the engine runs very cool even in climb on > hot days. > > dave > > > On Mar 28, 2010, at 11:58 AM, Rick Galati wrote: > > > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In > > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/ > IMG]<========================http://www.matronics.com/Navigator? > RV; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > http://forums.matronbsp; - List Contribution Web Site -http://www > ====================== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2010
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10
I have the same problem and have done all the things everyone has suggested. I Manage it, and have learned to live with it. Some have this problem and others do not, with the same setups. On hot day climb outs when it gets near 420 I level out and pull the throttle back until it get under 400 then continue the climb. It's usually only a problem during the hot summer days. ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm Tony Speranza wrote: > > I've been struggling with high cylinder head temperatures for 2+ > years...I have tried everything. Stock RV cowling & exhaust > installation: TMX-O360 180hp with Carb, Lightspeed & slick mag. I can > see CHT's in 430F range or much higher if I did NOT manage power. > Mixture & timing correct. Openned up intake & exhaust areas. > Resealed w/silicone material (replaced black stuff) - tight fit. > Plugged all the little holes w/red RTV. Sealed & recontoured in-let > ramps. Spark plugs the coolest offered...I am measureing with Dynon > FlightDek 180 and all TCs match exactly & agree with ambient > temperature (0 to 100 F). Everyone that looks at it says "looks good, > shold cool OK?". I am running out of ideas and would appreciate any > feedback or ideas. Thanks...Tony > > --- On *Mon, 3/29/10, RV-List Digest Server //* > wrote: > > > From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list(at)matronics.com> > Subject: RV-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 03/28/10 > To: "RV-List Digest List" > Date: Monday, March 29, 2010, 2:59 AM > > * > > ======================== > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ======================== > > Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest > formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked > Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII > version > of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV > <http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV> > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV > <http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-03-28&Archive=RV> > > > ====================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > ====================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > RV-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Sun 03/28/10: 5 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 09:25 AM - Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Matt Dralle) > 2. 12:00 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (Rick Galati) > 3. 12:24 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > (Bruce Gray) > 4. 12:25 PM - Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... (RV6 Flyer) > 5. 07:20 PM - Re: Re: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > (David Cudney) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=dralle@matronics.com>> > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > Dear Listers, > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around > the baffle-to-engine > areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely > necessary? > Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the installation. :-( > > If it is an absolute requirement, what are some suggestions on > material to use? > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... ;-) > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's > Construction Blog > Moved to hanger, wings attached permanently.... > > > ________________________________ Message 2 > _____________________________________ > > > From: Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rick6a@yahoo.com>> > Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > I used-red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies.- In > serv > ice for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > - > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > ________________________________ Message 3 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray(at)glasair.org > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bgray@glasair.org>> > Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > I'd fly the airplane first to see if I had any cylinder temp problems. > If I did then I would go with the RTV. > > Bruce > www.Glasair.org > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>] > On Behalf Of Rick Galati > Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:58 PM > Subject: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG] > > > ________________________________ Message 4 > _____________________________________ > > > From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > Necessary? Maybe yes maybe no. If your engine runs hot=2C it is > necessary. > If your engine runs cold=2C maybe not. > > I used BLACK Permatex Silicone from PepBoys. My baffles are > painted black > and so is my engine. I know guys that have used bath tube or > kitchen RTV. > > > Gary A. Sobek > > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C > > 2=2C342+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > > > > Date: Sun=2C 28 Mar 2010 09:23:59 -0700 > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv-list@matronics.com>=3B > rv7-list(at)matronics.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rv7-list@matronics.com>=3B > rv8-list@matronics > .com > > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=dralle@matronics.com> > > Subject: RV-List: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > > > > > > > Dear Listers=2C > > > > Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around > the baff > le-to-engine areas=2C what is the recommendation here? Is sealant > absolute > ly necessary? Adding a compound is going to really ugly-up the > installatio > n. :-( > > > > If it is an absolute requirement=2C what are some suggestions on > material > to use? > > > > About all I could find on ACS was this: > > > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/rtv.php > > > > At least it comes in Black to match my engine... =3B-) > > > > Feedback would be most appreciated. > > > > Matt Dralle > > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's > Construction Blog > > Moved to hanger=2C wings attached permanently.... > > > > > ========== > ========== > ========== > ========== > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more > from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:O > N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_2 > > ________________________________ Message 5 > _____________________________________ > > > From: David Cudney <yenduc(at)me.com > <http://us.mc566.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=yenduc@me.com>> > Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Sealing Around Engine Baffles... > > I also used red, high temp RTV---I sorta like the purdy red > color. I > also put louvers on the bottom of the lower cowl to aid in cooling > --- > probably was over kill as the engine runs very cool even in climb on > hot days. > > dave > > > On Mar 28, 2010, at 11:58 AM, Rick Galati wrote: > > > I used red (high temp) RTV to fill all the nooks and crannies. In > > service for several years, its hold is as tenacious as ever. > > > > > [IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2dkeu69.jpg[/IMG]<========================http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV; > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > http://forums.matronbsp; - List Contribution Web Site > -http://www====================== > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: cooling
David Cudney wrote: > After you have sealed as much as you can --If you still have a cooling > problem you, might consider louvers. Particularly if you have yet to > paint the plane. I was worried about cooling with my io 360 so I > built in louvers when I built my plane. It runs almost too cool -- I > have to block about 80% of the oil cooler in the winter in SoCAL. No > problem with heat even on hot, summer days at gross weight and climbing. > > good luck > dave IMHO, if the addition of louvers helps so much, then the cooling problem is either not enough exit area, or the airflow path is significantly turbulent. I'm sure that venturi effect helps suck the air out through the louvers, so some venturi work on the exit might help. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu>
Date: Mar 30, 2010
Subject: hot cylinder cures
Kelly, Great catch. Thanks for reminding me. I'll add that tip to the web page. I've caught that on several new RVs and it's really easy to fix. So easy, that I neglected to even list it on the web page. The easiest way to fix this is to simply remove the screw holding the baffle to the cylinder, take a regular washer and poke it in between the baffle and the front face of the #2 cylinder then put the screw back in the baffle to hold it in place. Do the same for the #3 rear face (or #5 on a 6 clylinder). Go fly and note the immediate temperature drop. Thx, Vince SNIP From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: baffle sealing and hot cylinder cures Be very careful what you seal up. #2 and #3 cylinders MUST have air on the intake port side, which is the side against the baffles. You need a minimum 1/8" gap between cylinder head and baffle there, probably 3/16 would be better. Lycoming does not cast any fins on the cylinder head on the intake port side. If you seal that, your cylinder will run 40-50 degrees hotter. It is a well known issue with Lycoming engines. Kelly A&P/IA On 3/29/2010 7:08 AM, Frazier, Vincent A wrote: > SNIP Regarding the requirement for sealing compound (silicon?) around > the baffle-to-engine areas, what is the recommendation here? Is sealant absolutely necessary? > FWIW, a very often overlooked, LARGE air leak occurs at the bottom aft > edge of the rear cylinders where they meet the case. There is often a huge, very hard to see hole there. Stick a flashlight back under and behind the cylinders and shine it up and forward. I'll bet you find a huge hole there. If nothing else, plug those! IMHO, this is a possible reason that many rear cylinders are unnecessarily hot. > > For other tips on curing hot cylinders please see > http://www.vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm > The top of the page is devoted to two common heat issues on Lycomings. > > Vince > www.flyboyaccessories.com > www.vincesrocket.com SNIP ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: High Cyl Head Temps with good baffles
From: Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Date: Mar 30, 2010
I had the same problem. Baffles looked great. Engine was fine otherwise. It was solved with a lister's help who referred me to Bart Lalonde at Aerosport Power. My problem was an inadequate main jet orifice. Temps dropped dramatically once I could supply a bit more fuel in the climb. Bart had me send him the jet and he reamed it out a little. Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec, RV-9A C-GOHM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: FAA Bill of Sale Form...
Listeres, How does the FAA Bill of Sale form work? Do I fill it out and mail it to Van's for signature, do they mail me one already filled out if I request it, or do I just put "Van's" under who I got it from and call it done? Also, under "value" what's the recommend amount? What the basic airframe kit from Van's cost? Man, I can't believe how many forms there are to register this thing... Thanks! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Forms And Final Touches Before Inspection... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Gray" <bgray(at)glasair.org>
Subject: FAA Bill of Sale Form...
Date: Mar 30, 2010
Vans should provide you with a properly executed FAA Bill of Sale. Bruce www.Glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 4:01 PM rv7-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: FAA Bill of Sale Form... Listeres, How does the FAA Bill of Sale form work? Do I fill it out and mail it to Van's for signature, do they mail me one already filled out if I request it, or do I just put "Van's" under who I got it from and call it done? Also, under "value" what's the recommend amount? What the basic airframe kit from Van's cost? Man, I can't believe how many forms there are to register this thing... Thanks! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Forms And Final Touches Before Inspection... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: FAA Bill of Sale Form...
Date: Mar 30, 2010
Phone Van's and ask them for the FAA Bill of Sale Form 8050-2. http://forms.faa.gov/forms/ac8050-2.pdf All you should need to do is write in the amount and the N number. Van's s hould have typed in everything else including signing it in ink. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C345+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Tue=2C 30 Mar 2010 13:01:03 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matronics .com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: FAA Bill of Sale Form... > > > > Listeres=2C > > How does the FAA Bill of Sale form work? Do I fill it out and mail it to Van's for signature=2C do they mail me one already filled out if I request it=2C or do I just put "Van's" under who I got it from and call it done? > > Also=2C under "value" what's the recommend amount? What the basic airfra me kit from Van's cost? > > Man=2C I can't believe how many forms there are to register this thing... > > Thanks! > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com > Forms And Final Touches Before Inspection... > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inb ox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2010
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: cooling
My guess is that he would not have had cooling problems to start with. I added louvers and they do not seem to have helped much. ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm Linn Walters wrote: > > David Cudney wrote: >> After you have sealed as much as you can --If you still have a >> cooling problem you, might consider louvers. Particularly if you have >> yet to paint the plane. I was worried about cooling with my io 360 >> so I built in louvers when I built my plane. It runs almost too >> cool -- I have to block about 80% of the oil cooler in the winter in >> SoCAL. No problem with heat even on hot, summer days at gross weight >> and climbing. >> >> good luck >> dave > IMHO, if the addition of louvers helps so much, then the cooling > problem is either not enough exit area, or the airflow path is > significantly turbulent. I'm sure that venturi effect helps suck the > air out through the louvers, so some venturi work on the exit might help. > Linn > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2010
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: High Cyl Head Temps with good baffles
Do you have a way to monitor your Gallons Per Hour? If so do you know what your putting through on take off? I see about 15 gph on take off climb. I did slightly enlarge my jet but did not want to go too far. ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm Ian wrote: > I had the same problem. Baffles looked great. Engine was fine > otherwise. It was solved with a lister's help who referred me to Bart > Lalonde at Aerosport Power. My problem was an inadequate main jet > orifice. Temps dropped dramatically once I could supply a bit more > fuel in the climb. Bart had me send him the jet and he reamed it out > a little. > > Ian Brown, Bromont, Quebec, RV-9A C-GOHM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 30, 2010
From: David White <dww0708(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: prop governor adaptor
does anyone on the list know where to procure one of these,,,?- Its a pro p governor adaptor for an external oil supply line.- Thank you in advance -------------- David ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: prop governor adaptor
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Slider locking mechanism
Folks, I am getting ready to install the locking mechanism on my 6A slider. The lock uses the same key as the ignition and the locking mechanisms came with the ignition switch set. I am trying to figure out where to install it as the side skirt bows out in the middle and the slider rail that the lock bar goes in to is straight front to back. Essentially, there are two installation points (foreward and aft) on each side. My slider frame is the later version with the square side rails and the slotted/holed-out skirt supports. It looks like the lock mechanism will barely fit through the holes. I also have a Meske Tip-up mod installed and am looking to modify a taxi-latch...the taxi latch may take up some of the forward space that the lock would need - causing me to consider installing the lock at the aft end of the side skirt. Anyone have personal preferences and reasons for them? Anyone have pictures of your installations...and willing to share. Thanks, Ralph Capen RV6A N822AR @ N06 55hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: prop governor adaptor
Date: Mar 31, 2010
From: "George, Neal E Capt USAF ACC 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
Mine came from Eagle Engines - http://www.americanpropeller.com/ neal -----Original Message----- does anyone on the list know where to procure one of these,,,? Its a prop governor adaptor for an external oil supply line. Thank you in advance David ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 11 Msgs - 03/30/10
From: Mark Frederick <f1boss(at)gmail.com>
"Do you have a way to monitor your Gallons Per Hour? If so do you know what your putting through on take off? I see about 15 gph on take off climb. I did slightly enlarge my jet but did not want to go too far." Rule of thumb applies here: 1 gal for every 10HP @ sea level @ full RPM @ std temp. If you have a 150HP engine, 15GPH is about right. Look for 18 on a 360 engine. Another check is to see if you can get 250 ROP at full rated power. If not, make the appropriate changes. I suspect more than a few cooling issues are actually fuel related. Carry on! Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
Subject: Re: Hot CHT and fuel flow
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
That rule of thumb is just a bit rich. My 200hp fuel injected IO-360 Lycoming flows about 17-18gph on takeoff with EGT and CHT where they should be....1200-1250 and 340, with a fuel flow unit on EI UBG-16. 16-17 gph should be plenty for 180hp engine. On 3/31/2010 5:32 AM, Mark Frederick wrote: > "Do you have a way to monitor your Gallons Per Hour? If so do you know > what your putting through on take off? I see about 15 gph on take off > climb. I did slightly enlarge my jet but did not want to go too far." > > Rule of thumb applies here: 1 gal for every 10HP @ sea level @ full RPM > @ std temp. If you have a 150HP engine, 15GPH is about right. Look for > 18 on a 360 engine. > > Another check is to see if you can get 250 ROP at full rated power. If > not, make the appropriate changes. > > I suspect more than a few cooling issues are actually fuel related. > > Carry on! > Mark > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 31, 2010
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: prop governor adaptor
Try Superior, there are still people working there. My Superior engine came with one. http://www.superiorairparts.com/ *Superior Air Parts, Inc.* 621 South Royal Lane, Suite 100 Coppell, TX 75019-3805 Phone: 972-829-4600 Fax : 972-829-4648 Email ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm David White wrote: > does anyone on the list know where to procure one of these,,,? Its a > prop governor adaptor for an external oil supply line. Thank you in > advance David > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 03/31/10
From: Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Date: Apr 01, 2010
I installed mine on forward with the lock just above the rail, mounted on the forward canopy side metalwork just aft of the roll bar.. I cut a slot in top of the slider rail that the locking tab turns down into for the locked position. Works fine for me. Ian Brown, RV-9A, C-GOHM Snippet "I am getting ready to install the locking mechanism on my 6A slider. The lock uses the same key as the ignition and the locking mechanisms came with the ignition switch set. I am trying to figure out where to install it as the side skirt bows out in the middle and the slider rail that the lock bar goes in to is straight front to back. Essentially, there are two installation points (foreward and aft) on each side." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2010
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 03/31/10
Here is a picture of mine, I've got two slots full shut and a little open for air circulation when parked out in the hot sun. ---- Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site: http://home.newwavecomm.net/bobbyhester/RVSite.htm > "I am getting ready to install the locking mechanism on my 6A slider. The lock > uses the same key as the ignition and the locking mechanisms came with the ignition > switch set. > > I am trying to figure out where to install it as the side skirt bows out in the > middle and the slider rail that the lock bar goes in to is straight front to > back. Essentially, there are two installation points (foreward and aft) on each > side." > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Something I didn't want to see
Date: Apr 01, 2010
Hello Gents Well today I had the misfortune to find a 6 inches crack on the right hand side of my RV-4 canopy...To say that I really did not need this will be an understatement as you can imagine.( Specially the second time ) How it cracked after been on the a/c for 9 years is beyond me. The a/c had been in storage for the winter inside my hangar.The only thing that I could imagine being the cause would be temperature' changes since the temperature has been going up & down fairly quickly in the last few days / week... That said, I'm sure I'm not the only one who had that nasty surprise and I would like to know if some of you guys decided to fix the crack rather than installing a new canopy? If so, how did you do it and did it last? Has anyone of you ever glued a canopy on an RV-4 rather than using pop rivets or screw to hold it in place, if yes how did you do it and if possible if you have pictures I could look at, to e-mailed them to me so I could used your experience to re-install ( # 1 solution so far ) the new canopy that I will probably ordered from Van's in the next few days?? Thanks in advance Bruno Dionne rv4(at)videotron.ca C-GDBH RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 01, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Something I didn't want to see
Bruno wrote: > Hello Gents > Well today I had the misfortune to find a 6 inches > crack on the right hand side of my RV-4 canopy...To say that I really > did not need this will be an understatement as you can imagine.( > Specially the second time ) > How it cracked after been on the a/c for 9 years is beyond me. Oh, that hurts. The canopy is acrylic, and the plasticisers will outgass over time making the canopy brittle. And it shrinks in this process. All it takes is a little stress and ...... > The a/c had been in storage for the winter inside my hangar.The only > thing that I could imagine being the cause would be temperature' > changes since the temperature has been going up & down fairly quickly > in the last few days / week... As the temp drops, the plastic shrinks ..... aggravating the problem. > > That said, I'm sure I'm not the only one who had that nasty surprise > and I would like to know if some of you guys decided to fix the crack > rather than installing a new canopy? If so, how did you do it and did > it last? Well, I'vee been there, done that. I hit my head on the canopy of my Pitts during an outside snap roll, and that caused a crack from where my head hit to the aft edge of the canopy. I was aligning the edges of the crack and ...... another crack from the crack point over my head to the back edge ..... about 6" from the original, letting me hold this big piece of my canopy in my hand. Not a good day. I went to a sign shop and bought a can of acrylic glue. It's like water. I fit the piece back into the canopy as best I could ..... it didn't fit real good because the stress was gone and the canopy relaxed a bit. Using a diabetic insulin syringe, I put a little of the glue along the crack .... it really wicks along and almost made the crack disappear Patience is golden here as excess glue will drip down the canopy .... and make more work. The edges that didn't meet up well were really noticeable, but the cracks weren't where I see them so I just polished out the crack to make it the best it could be. It's now a conversation piece when I go places. > > Has anyone of you ever glued a canopy on an RV-4 rather than using > pop rivets Pop rivets put major stress on the plastic!!! > or screw to hold it in place, Much better. Make the holes oversize to give the canopy room to 'float' as it ages to reduce stress when the canopy shrinks against the screw. > if yes how did you do it and if possible if you have pictures I could > look at, to e-mailed them to me so I could used your experience to > re-install ( # 1 solution so far ) the new canopy that I will probably > ordered from Van's in the next few days?? Can't help you there. I plan on using the same stuff that they use on car windshields now when I put the windows and windshield in my -10. Linn > > Thanks in advance > > Bruno Dionne > rv4(at)videotron.ca > C-GDBH RV-4 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Thilo Kind" <thilo.kind(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Something I didn't want to see
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Hi Bruno, Very sorry to hear about that. Sounds like a stress cracking caused by inherent stress in the canopy in conjunction with temperature changes, exposure to sunlight, and / or (most likely) use of detergents or solvents on the canopy. You can glue the crack using special glue for PMMA (acrylic sheet), but the crack will remain visible. Thilo _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruno Sent: Friday, April 02, 2010 04:19 Subject: RV-List: Something I didn't want to see Hello Gents Well today I had the misfortune to find a 6 inches crack on the right hand side of my RV-4 canopy...To say that I really did not need this will be an understatement as you can imagine.( Specially the second time ) How it cracked after been on the a/c for 9 years is beyond me. The a/c had been in storage for the winter inside my hangar.The only thing that I could imagine being the cause would be temperature' changes since the temperature has been going up & down fairly quickly in the last few days / week... That said, I'm sure I'm not the only one who had that nasty surprise and I would like to know if some of you guys decided to fix the crack rather than installing a new canopy? If so, how did you do it and did it last? Has anyone of you ever glued a canopy on an RV-4 rather than using pop rivets or screw to hold it in place, if yes how did you do it and if possible if you have pictures I could look at, to e-mailed them to me so I could used your experience to re-install ( # 1 solution so far ) the new canopy that I will probably ordered from Van's in the next few days?? Thanks in advance Bruno Dionne rv4(at)videotron.ca C-GDBH RV-4 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 08:32:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Something I didn't want to see
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Bruno, Ouch. That really sucks, especially just at the start of the flying season. You can probably fix the crack, as described below in a message that was originally posted by RV builder Noel Drew from South Africa. Good luck, Kevin > I can share your feelings on a canopy crack. My RV6 windscreen decided to > start a crack from the roll bar down some 6 inches that probably started > from somebody else resting too hard on the edge. This is an early 1/4 inch > windscreen that Van offered when the slider was first introduced and to the > best of my knowledge is no longer obtainable. > > I was considering my options when a glider pilot looked at it and said > "weld" it like the glider owners do. I suppose there is always a first time > for everything so I started seeking advice. > > I first located some liquid methyl methacrylate monomer that is the raw > material used in the manufacture of sheet plexiglas. It is not the glue > that is sometimes supplied nor is it solvent. It is called stabilised > monomer. Having stop drilled the crack, I cut a V shaped groove on the line > of the crack leaving a narrow gap at the bottom and about 3/16" wide at the > top. I located a thick needle for a hypodermic syringe and was able to lay > the viscous liquid monomer in the gap with tip of the needle submerged to > avoid bubbles. After somewhat of a learning curve I was able to generate a > reasonable weld. > > The problems you will encounter will be bubbles trapped in the liquid, a > flow of liquid down the slope of the windscreen, the monomer going solid in > the syringe, needle, and on the surface of the jar it is supplied in. I > should mention that the monomer will evaporate and shrink in the groove if > you do not get it to set quickly by exposing it to ultraviolet radiation. > At different times I used the sun (very quick) and a crack testing lamp from > the nearby engine shop. Less than a minute in Durban's sun will have it too > stiff to go anywhere while it will remain liquid for hours in the > ultraviolet free workshop. After a few false starts that were rectified by > starting over with the Dremel, the result looked like a metal weld with a > ridge of plexiglas on both sides. Careful shaving and sanding gave me a > surface that polished up very well after it had set properly. > > The end result is a line in my canopy that is smooth and transparent but it > deflects the light as is does not entirely match the colour or refractive > index of the original material. I am satisfied with the strength of the > join and now regard the repair as an honourable scar on my companion and a > satisfactory compromise to the huge task of replacing the windscreen. On 2010-04-01, at 22:19 , Bruno wrote: > Hello Gents > Well today I had the misfortune to find a 6 inches crack on the right hand side of my RV-4 canopy...To say that I really did not need this will be an understatement as you can imagine.( Specially the second time ) > How it cracked after been on the a/c for 9 years is beyond me. The a/c had been in storage for the winter inside my hangar.The only thing that I could imagine being the cause would be temperature' changes since the temperature has been going up & down fairly quickly in the last few days / week... > > That said, I'm sure I'm not the only one who had that nasty surprise and I would like to know if some of you guys decided to fix the crack rather than installing a new canopy? If so, how did you do it and did it last? > > Has anyone of you ever glued a canopy on an RV-4 rather than using pop rivets or screw to hold it in place, if yes how did you do it and if possible if you have pictures I could look at, to e-mailed them to me so I could used your experience to re-install ( # 1 solution so far ) the new canopy that I will probably ordered from Van's in the next few days?? > > Thanks in advance > > Bruno Dionne > rv4(at)videotron.ca > C-GDBH RV-4 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Something I didn't want to see
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Hi Bruno, Take a look at this: http://www.tapplastics.com/info/adhesives.php? Get some acrylic and do some practicing. We produce flawless near invisible joints using this process. Once you figure out the technique you can do a repair like this quickly. The liquid will melt the surface of the canopy if you allow it to dribble and run. Practice first. If the crack has drawn apart I would use the technique that Kevin suggested. Methyl Chloride is a dangerous carcinogen that people are far to careless with. Protect yourself while using it... DavidB From: Bruno Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 7:19 PM Subject: RV-List: Something I didn't want to see Hello Gents Well today I had the misfortune to find a 6 inches crack on the right hand side of my RV-4 canopy...To say that I really did not need this will be an understatement as you can imagine.( Specially the second time ) How it cracked after been on the a/c for 9 years is beyond me. The a/c had been in storage for the winter inside my hangar.The only thing that I could imagine being the cause would be temperature' changes since the temperature has been going up & down fairly quickly in the last few days / week... That said, I'm sure I'm not the only one who had that nasty surprise and I would like to know if some of you guys decided to fix the crack rather than installing a new canopy? If so, how did you do it and did it last? Has anyone of you ever glued a canopy on an RV-4 rather than using pop rivets or screw to hold it in place, if yes how did you do it and if possible if you have pictures I could look at, to e-mailed them to me so I could used your experience to re-install ( # 1 solution so far ) the new canopy that I will probably ordered from Van's in the next few days?? Thanks in advance Bruno Dionne rv4(at)videotron.ca C-GDBH RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Something I didn't want to see
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Hi Bruno- I'd suggest checking into Todd's canopies down in Ft. Lauderdale. Last I saw, his canopies were thicker, stronger, available in several tints, customizable, cheaper, and came with a guarantee. You can (used to be able to?) find an article on the RV wiki about gluing canopies. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2010
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Something I didn't want to see
Something to remember the canopy expands and contracts you must give it room to do so. I put my canopy on with screws. The screw was, lets say .150 diameter the hole in the canopy is ~.187. Somebody once said an RV-8 canopy lengthens 3/16 of an inch between 32F and 100F. Thats a bunch of stress if the canopy is not allowed to move......... Scott RV-8a ________________________________ From: Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca> Sent: Thu, April 1, 2010 7:19:05 PM Subject: RV-List: Something I didn't want to see Hello Gents Well today I had the misfortune to find a 6 inches crack on the right hand side of my RV-4 canopy...To say that I really did not need this will be an understatement as you can imagine.( Specially the second time ) How it cracked after been on the a/c for 9 years is beyond me. The a/c had been in storage for the winter inside my hangar.The only thing that I could imagine being the cause would be temperature' changes since the temperature has been going up & down fairly quickly in the last few days / week... That said, I'm sure I'm not the only one who had that nasty surprise and I would like to know if some of you guys decided to fix the crack rather than installing a new canopy? If so, how did you do it and did it last? Has anyone of you ever glued a canopy on an RV-4 rather than using pop rivets or screw to hold it in place, if yes how did you do it and if possible if you have pictures I could look at, to e-mailed them to me so I could used your experience to re-install ( # 1 solution so far ) the new canopy that I will probably ordered from Van's in the next few days?? Thanks in advance Bruno Dionne rv4(at)videotron.ca C-GDBH RV-4 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruno <rv4(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Cracked canopy
Date: Apr 02, 2010
Hello again Gents From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> : Something I didn't want to see -------------------------------- Thanks for the info Linn, greatly appreciated.. Today I talked with Jeff at Aero Plastics ( Van's supplier ) and he told me first to stop the crack by stop drilling it up to 3/16 of an inch otherwise the crack will keep on cracking ( seem like a big hole to me but he 's the pro ) Second: he told me to use a Solvent type called '' Well Done 3 '' which comes with a needle type applicator to help in putting the glue right in the crack. Third:: He told me to put a doubler on the bottom 3 inches of the crack and to bond it with Gorilla Super Glue so it could be kept closed... Is the above procedure something familiar to some of you and does it sounds like something you have done or will do ?? Thank you for your imputs.. Bruno Dionne rv4(at)videotron.ca ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Cracked canopy
Bruno wrote: > Hello again Gents > > From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net > > > : Something I didn't want to see > -------------------------------- > Thanks for the info Linn, greatly appreciated.. > > Today I talked with Jeff at Aero Plastics ( Van's supplier ) and he > told me first to stop the crack by stop drilling it up to 3/16 of an > inch otherwise the crack will keep on cracking ( seem like a big hole > to me but he 's the pro ) Well, as you said, he's the pro. I think you might have mis-understood about the 3/16" drill. You're right ...... that would be a big hole. Use a #40 (or smaller) drill ahead of the crack .... so that the crack points to the hole .... (not more than 3/16" away from the crack???) ..... so that the crack can propagate to the hole. Drilling at the end of the crack might cause the crack to propagate across the hole. > > */Second/*: he told me to use a Solvent type called '' Well Done 3 '' > which comes with a needle type applicator to help in putting the glue > right in the crack. Well, I can understand how you got there .... but its Weldon 3. > > */Third::/* He told me to put a doubler on the bottom 3 inches of the > crack and to bond it with Gorilla Super Glue so it could be kept closed... On my Pitts canopy I glued a thin piece of acrylic across the crack at the canopy edge using ..... either Weldon 3 or it's equivalent. My glue (actually just a solvent) didn't come with a needle-type applicator, so I used a insulin syringe. Pays to have diabetic friends. > > Is the above procedure something familiar to some of you and does it > sounds like something you have done or will do ?? Except for the 3/16" drill, it sounds like what I did ... or would do. Good luck, and let us know how you made out. Linn > > Thank you for your imputs.. > > Bruno Dionne > rv4(at)videotron.ca > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 02, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Cracked canopy
One thing I forgot to mention ..... buy a drill bit made for plastic. If you can't find a small plastic drill bit grind the cutting edge on a standard drill flat so it can't grab the plastic as it goes through ...... get rid of the chisel tip. Grind the point so it scrapes the plastic rather than cutting into it, and go slow with little pressure on the bit. Linn Bruno wrote: > Hello again Gents > > From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net > > > : Something I didn't want to see > -------------------------------- > Thanks for the info Linn, greatly appreciated.. > > Today I talked with Jeff at Aero Plastics ( Van's supplier ) and he > told me first to stop the crack by stop drilling it up to 3/16 of an > inch otherwise the crack will keep on cracking ( seem like a big hole > to me but he 's the pro ) > > */Second/*: he told me to use a Solvent type called '' Well Done 3 '' > which comes with a needle type applicator to help in putting the glue > right in the crack. > > */Third::/* He told me to put a doubler on the bottom 3 inches of the > crack and to bond it with Gorilla Super Glue so it could be kept closed... > > Is the above procedure something familiar to some of you and does it > sounds like something you have done or will do ?? > > Thank you for your imputs.. > > Bruno Dionne > rv4(at)videotron.ca > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 04, 2010
Subject: Re: VM1000 Oil Pressure Sender
I've troubleshot my installation and all seems good according to the Troubleshooting Guide from VM, but I am getting low readings from the oil pressure system all of a sudden. If any lister has a spare unused P/N 3010018 Oil Pressure Transducer, I would be interested in borrowing it to further confirm the problem. A new sender fetches a princely sum of $400, so I want to be sure. Thanks in advance. N1GV (RV-6A Flying 936TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 04, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders Won't Calibrate...
Dear Listers, I installed Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders in the left and right fuel tanks with Proseal (see attached). Last week I installed the wings permanently and today I torqued all of the fuel lines from the wings to the fuselage. I got 21 gallons in 5.25 gallon increments ready to calibrate the 5-set point Princeton probes today. They both powered up fine and started flashing the left light indicating the Empty set point. I pushed the button once per the calibration instructions to go to the 1/4 level. Instead of getting the #2 led flashing, I get the all three LEDs flashing sequence indicating that probe "Can't be calibrated"!!! From the installation manual: CAL Error (three flashing LEDs) - The probe failed to calibrate. Possible causes: water in the tank (NO), inner brass rod is shorted to the outside aluminum tube (PROBABLY), Alcohol in the fuel (NO), trying to calibrate full first instead of empty (NO), or the probe electronics have failed (MAYBE)." Yeah, you read all that right. The best part of this story is that I Prosealed these babies in, installed the wings, and now discover that both probes are defective or what even. How can this fricken be? Its too late in the game for this. Replacing these stupid probes is going to be a major pain not to mention the fact that likelihood of leaks are now going to be high. I just can't believe it. This is so frustrating. Why didn't the manual advise to check this long before now? Like before they were installed, during installation, and right after installation before the Proseal cured? Oh, did I mention BOTH are bad? How can this be... How disheartening. Please tell me I'm just mis-reading the calibration instructions...? I'm going to go out on a limb here and say avoid these piles of garbage... Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: VM1000 Oil Pressure Sender
Date: Apr 05, 2010
I'll look - I still have a few parts left from my original VM1000... ----- Original Message ----- From: Vanremog(at)aol.com To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 8:00 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000 Oil Pressure Sender I've troubleshot my installation and all seems good according to the Troubleshooting Guide from VM, but I am getting low readings from the oil pressure system all of a sudden. If any lister has a spare unused P/N 3010018 Oil Pressure Transducer, I would be interested in borrowing it to further confirm the problem. A new sender fetches a princely sum of $400, so I want to be sure. Thanks in advance. N1GV (RV-6A Flying 936TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: VM1000 Oil Pressure Sender
Gary, -I could- find only limited spec info for your transducer using a quick Google search. However, if it is a commonly used 10 to 180 ohm unit, you c an find a VDO replacement here. http://www.egauges.com/vdo_indS.asp?Sender=150PSI_10Bar&PN=360-430 This unit also covers 0 to 150 psi and is about 10% of the price of the 301 0018. Charlie Kuss --- On Sun, 4/4/10, Vanremog(at)aol.com wrote: From: Vanremog(at)aol.com <Vanremog(at)aol.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: VM1000 Oil Pressure Sender Date: Sunday, April 4, 2010, 8:00 PM =0A=0A =0A=0AI've troubleshot my installation and all seems good according to the =0ATroubleshooting Guide from VM, but I am getting low readings from the =0Aoil-pressure system-all of a sudden.- If any lister has a spa re =0Aunused P/N 3010018 Oil Pressure Transducer, I would be interested in borrowing =0Ait to further confirm the problem.=0A-=0AA new sender-fetc hes-a princely sum of $400, so I want to be =0Asure.=0A-=0AThanks in ad vance.=0A-=0AN1GV (RV-6A =0AFlying 936TTAE Silicon Valley, CA)=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Hello listers... Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to accept the mounting of the fuel controller to the front of the sump. Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune the system. Chris Stone RV-8 Oregon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: (UPDATE) Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders Won't Calibrate...
Dear Listers, I was able to get fairly good access to the fuel sender from under the airplane and so I removed the 5 screws with a right-angle electric screwdriver attachment and gently pulled the sender about 1" out. As I did this, I noticed that the tip of the probe seemed to touching the bottom of the fuel tank. Recall that the probe comes prebent in a "U" shape for RV installations. I thought that perhaps the tip of the probe touching the tank wasn't a good idea, so I gently twisted the fuel sender so as to slightly bend the tip of the probe up just a little bit. I pushed the sending back into the hole and put two screws in to hold it in normal position. I applied power and pressed the button down to get it into calibration mode. I got the one flashing LED indicating Empty set point as before. I pressed the button once again to get the 1/4 set point, and much to my surprise, I received to next sequence of two flashing lights!! So I tried the same procedure on the left tank and got the same results! Yahoo! When I pulled the sender from the tank, the Proseal 100% stuck to the metal tank and released from the sender. This worked out really well as it formed a nice gasket. I mixed up a batch of Proseal and applied it to the probe and then used new screws and reassembled both sides. After the reinstallation, I tested the power-on/first set point again and was pleased to see that it was still working! Yahoo! So, after the Proseal cures, I'll try the calibration with fuel again. Hopefully it will go through all 5 steps and I can just move on with this! I was all ready to replace the Princeton's with the standard S&W floats, but when I got to looking I realized that I had powered the Princeton's with +12v, and the floats require a 470 ohm to 4.8V. So, changing to the floats would require rewiring behind the panel and that's a whole lot of work I'm just not up for right now!! Hopefully the Princeton's will calibrate fully now and I'll be back on track! I'll post another update after my calibration escapade... Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog At 05:37 PM 4/4/2010 Sunday, Matt Dralle wrote: >Dear Listers, > >I installed Princeton 18-5B-5S Fuel Senders in the left and right fuel tanks with Proseal (see attached). Last week I installed the wings permanently and today I torqued all of the fuel lines from the wings to the fuselage. I got 21 gallons in 5.25 gallon increments ready to calibrate the 5-set point Princeton probes today. They both powered up fine and started flashing the left light indicating the Empty set point. I pushed the button once per the calibration instructions to go to the 1/4 level. Instead of getting the #2 led flashing, I get the all three LEDs flashing sequence indicating that probe "Can't be calibrated"!!! > > From the installation manual: CAL Error (three flashing LEDs) - The probe failed to calibrate. Possible causes: water in the tank (NO), inner brass rod is shorted to the outside aluminum tube (PROBABLY), Alcohol in the fuel (NO), trying to calibrate full first instead of empty (NO), or the probe electronics have failed (MAYBE)." Yeah, you read all that right. > >The best part of this story is that I Prosealed these babies in, installed the wings, and now discover that both probes are defective or what even. How can this fricken be? Its too late in the game for this. Replacing these stupid probes is going to be a major pain not to mention the fact that likelihood of leaks are now going to be high. I just can't believe it. This is so frustrating. Why didn't the manual advise to check this long before now? Like before they were installed, during installation, and right after installation before the Proseal cured? > >Oh, did I mention BOTH are bad? How can this be... How disheartening. Please tell me I'm just mis-reading the calibration instructions...? > >I'm going to go out on a limb here and say avoid these piles of garbage... > >Matt Dralle ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Chris, No it won't "de-tune" the system. The tuning is in the equal length of the intake runners of the system. Moving the servo from rear to front won't affect that. For great info on doing this, go to: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33171&page=3 & http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=41657&highlight=Converting+rear+servo+front & http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=11482&highlight=Converting+rear+servo+front Charlie Kuss --- On Tue, 4/6/10, Chris Stone wrote: > From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> > Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Tuesday, April 6, 2010, 9:32 AM > Chris Stone > > Hello listers... > > Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel > controller) to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the > sump boss to accept the mounting of the fuel controller to > the front of the sump. > > Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that > by switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will > detune the system. > > Chris Stone > RV-8 > Oregon > > Forum - > FAQ, > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > List Contribution Web Site - > -Matt > Dralle, List Admin. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg...
I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final registration cert from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your Airworthiness cert, or is the pink copy of the registration sufficient? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg...
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Apr 06, 2010
The EAA Amateur Built Certification Kit that leads you through all of the paperwork is an excellent resource. Step by step instructions for a very reasonable cost of $12.99. Follow all of the steps carefully and it will all go through without a hitch. It can be ordered by phone or online at EAA. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=293280#293280 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg...
Date: Apr 07, 2010
You need the HARD CARD from Oklahoma City. The PINK copy is NOT sufficient. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C345+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Tue=2C 6 Apr 2010 17:37:28 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list@matronics .com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg... > > > > I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final registratio n cert from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your Airworthiness cer t=2C or is the pink copy of the registration sufficient? > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log > Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight... > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 06, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar...
Thought I'd share a couple of pictures of the 'ol RV-8 project now that its moved to the hangar... Since these were taken the wings have been put on. Won't be long now!! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log Final Bits And Pieces... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Subject: Re: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar...
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Now, THAT'S Cool!! Congrats!! The hangar is also really something. What are those black boxes hanging from the ceiling behind the hangar doors? What kind of flooring is that? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)johndeere.com>
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Subject: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg...
Looks like you are still getting conflicting reports Matt! I got my AW cer tificate last August. My local FSDO (Des Moines Iowa) required me to have the final registration - not the pink copy. It may vary by FSDO, but the r ule here is as Gary describes below. Paul A. Fisher RV-7A N18PF ~80 hours (and happy spring has finally arrived!) From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 22:49 Subject: RE: RV-List: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg... You need the HARD CARD from Oklahoma City. The PINK copy is NOT sufficient. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,345+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar...
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Hi Matt=2C Congratulations=2C great to hear you are now in your hangar and look forwar d to hearing about your first flight (don't let up - it will be sooner than you think (not to many parts left on the shelves :-) Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A sold and working on RV-9A > Date: Tue=2C 6 Apr 2010 22:12:06 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matronics .com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar... > > > Thought I'd share a couple of pictures of the 'ol RV-8 project now that i ts moved to the hangar... Since these were taken the wings have been put on . > > Won't be long now!! > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log > Final Bits And Pieces... _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2010
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Charlie... Great info! Thank you. I am encouraged now that I have seen it done by others. chris -----Original Message----- >From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> >Sent: Apr 6, 2010 7:44 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > >Chris, > No it won't "de-tune" the system. The tuning is in the equal length of the intake runners of the system. Moving the servo from rear to front won't affect that. For great info on doing this, go to: > >http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=33171&page=3 > >& > >http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=41657&highlight=Converting+rear+servo+front > >& > >http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=11482&highlight=Converting+rear+servo+front > >Charlie Kuss > >--- On Tue, 4/6/10, Chris Stone wrote: > >> From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> >> Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Date: Tuesday, April 6, 2010, 9:32 AM >> Chris Stone >> >> Hello listers... >> >> Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel >> controller) to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the >> sump boss to accept the mounting of the fuel controller to >> the front of the sump. >> >> Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that >> by switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will >> detune the system. >> >> Chris Stone >> RV-8 >> Oregon >> >> Forum - >> FAQ, >> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >> List Contribution Web Site - >> -Matt >> Dralle, List Admin. >> >> >> >> > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar...
At 04:35 AM 4/7/2010 Wednesday, you wrote: > >Now, THAT'S Cool!! Congrats!! > >The hangar is also really something. What are those black boxes hanging from the ceiling behind the hangar doors? What kind of flooring is that? Thanks! Those black boxes are speakers! Gotta have tunes when you're working on the RV, don't you know! The floor is carpeted. It really makes working on the plane a lot nicer. I spent the good part of the past weekend working underneath the plane on my back and it was very comfortable. Highly recommend. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com>
Subject: IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Date: Apr 07, 2010
I used a C model sump on my 1st RV-6. I had the front boss milled and tapped for studs to mount an Airflow Performance servo. That was on a parallel valve O-360 so I had to adjust the intake tubes and provide spacers to get them to fit. That shouldn't be needed on an angle valve engine. The down side for my -6 was the sump sits farther aft than the A model sump and I had to modify my engine mount to get clearance. I elected to go with an A sump on my rebuild which also has tubes made for the parallel valve engine. I have the C model sump available if you or anyone else is interested. It has been modified to add the oil bosses (I've forgotten if it was 1 or 2) for a Christen inverted system. The sump is magnesium as are the added bosses. Rear has a cover plate and the front is setup for the AFP servo. Contact me off list if interested. Regards, Greg Young > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:32 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > > Hello listers... > > Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) > to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to > accept the mounting of the fuel controller to the front of the sump. > > Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by > switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune > the system. > > Chris Stone > RV-8 > Oregon > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <smitty(at)smittysrv.com>
Subject: Re: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar...
Date: Apr 07, 2010
OMG. Now I have "speaker envy"! Very nice! Smitty http://SmittysRV.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 11:07 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Mr RV-8 Moves To The Hangar... > > At 04:35 AM 4/7/2010 Wednesday, you wrote: >> >>Now, THAT'S Cool!! Congrats!! >> >>The hangar is also really something. What are those black boxes hanging >>from the ceiling behind the hangar doors? What kind of flooring is that? > > Thanks! > > Those black boxes are speakers! Gotta have tunes when you're working on > the RV, don't you know! > > The floor is carpeted. It really makes working on the plane a lot nicer. > I spent the good part of the past weekend working underneath the plane on > my back and it was very comfortable. Highly recommend. > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2010
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Greg, Thanks for the nugget! This confirms what Bart had said regarding interference with the engine mount. It appears that I will have an extra 'C' sump as I will be purchasing the 'A' sump and pipes. One question remains. Charlie posted a link to IDGs Picasa web album that shows a RV-8 engine installation with an IO-360 parallel valve with a 'C' sump machined to fit the fuel servo to the front. It appears there is clearance between the rear of the sump and the engine mount. http://picasaweb.google.com/intelligentdesigngroup/FirewallForward#5311619666248489490 Still head scratching... chris stone RV8 Oregon -----Original Message----- >From: Greg <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> >Sent: Apr 7, 2010 12:47 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > >I used a C model sump on my 1st RV-6. I had the front boss milled and tapped >for studs to mount an Airflow Performance servo. That was on a parallel >valve O-360 so I had to adjust the intake tubes and provide spacers to get >them to fit. That shouldn't be needed on an angle valve engine. The down >side for my -6 was the sump sits farther aft than the A model sump and I had >to modify my engine mount to get clearance. I elected to go with an A sump >on my rebuild which also has tubes made for the parallel valve engine. > >I have the C model sump available if you or anyone else is interested. It >has been modified to add the oil bosses (I've forgotten if it was 1 or 2) >for a Christen inverted system. The sump is magnesium as are the added >bosses. Rear has a cover plate and the front is setup for the AFP servo. >Contact me off list if interested. > >Regards, >Greg Young > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone >> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:32 AM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 >> >> >> Hello listers... >> >> Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) >> to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to >> accept the mounting of the fuel controller to the front of the sump. >> >> Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by >> switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune >> the system. >> >> Chris Stone >> RV-8 >> Oregon >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg...
At 05:37 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday, you wrote: > > >I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final registration cert from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your Airworthiness cert, or is the pink copy of the registration sufficient? > >Matt Dralle I found the following bit of information on the FAA web site regarding registrations and the use of the Pink copy. Here's an excerpt from the link that follows: "You can also check the Document Index to see if recently mailed registration documents have arrived at the Aircraft Registration Branch. Arrival of registration documents in the Registry enables confirmation that application for registration has been made and temporary (pink-copy) operating authority is in effect. Processing registration documents related to a change in aircraft ownership averages 16 working days after their receipt." http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/aircraft_certification/aircraft_registry/registration_status/ To me, this sounds like as soon as the FAA has received the registration and entered it into the system as indicated by an on line status search, you are allowed to use the Pink copy until the real copy arrives. I would then assume that Airworthiness could be applied for under the same conditions...? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com>
Subject: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Chris, It may work fine on an RV-8 since the mount is going to be different from the -6. On the -6 the sump did not touch the mount with new isolators. It had about 1/8 inch clearance. Considering sag over time and the normal movement I had the two offending tubes rewelded with a kink in them. Without the gear going into the mount the geometry change might provide the clearance. When I get home tonight I'll try to dig up the pictures showing the engine with the modified mount so you can compare it with Charlie's. Greg > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 2:49 PM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > > Greg, > > Thanks for the nugget! This confirms what Bart had said > regarding interference with the engine mount. It appears > that I will have an extra 'C' sump as I will be purchasing > the 'A' sump and pipes. > > One question remains. Charlie posted a link to IDGs Picasa > web album that shows a RV-8 engine installation with an > IO-360 parallel valve with a 'C' sump machined to fit the > fuel servo to the front. It appears there is clearance > between the rear of the sump and the engine mount. > > http://picasaweb.google.com/intelligentdesigngroup/FirewallFor > ward#5311619666248489490 > > Still head scratching... > > chris stone RV8 Oregon > > > -----Original Message----- > >From: Greg <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> > >Sent: Apr 7, 2010 12:47 PM > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RE: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > > > > >I used a C model sump on my 1st RV-6. I had the front boss > milled and > >tapped for studs to mount an Airflow Performance servo. That > was on a > >parallel valve O-360 so I had to adjust the intake tubes and provide > >spacers to get them to fit. That shouldn't be needed on an > angle valve > >engine. The down side for my -6 was the sump sits farther > aft than the > >A model sump and I had to modify my engine mount to get clearance. I > >elected to go with an A sump on my rebuild which also has > tubes made for the parallel valve engine. > > > >I have the C model sump available if you or anyone else is > interested. > >It has been modified to add the oil bosses (I've forgotten > if it was 1 > >or 2) for a Christen inverted system. The sump is magnesium > as are the > >added bosses. Rear has a cover plate and the front is setup > for the AFP servo. > >Contact me off list if interested. > > > >Regards, > >Greg Young > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 07, 2010
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Chris, For an RV8, the C style sump and intake tubes will work when converted for a forward facing servo. No modification of the engine mount is necessary. Mods are needed for RV6, RV7 & RV9 motor mounts. The C sump will not fit on any A [tricycle gear] model. The links I provided were to threads on the Vans Air Force site. As Greg stated, the intake tube spacers are only needed when using an angle valve sump and tubes on a parallel valve 360 engine. Charlie Kuss --- On Wed, 4/7/10, Chris Stone wrote: > From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> > Subject: RV-List: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Wednesday, April 7, 2010, 3:48 PM > Chris Stone > > Greg, > > Thanks for the nugget! This confirms what Bart had > said regarding interference with the engine mount. It > appears that I will have an extra 'C' sump as I will be > purchasing the 'A' sump and pipes. > > One question remains. Charlie posted a link to IDGs > Picasa web album that shows a RV-8 engine installation with > an IO-360 parallel valve with a 'C' sump machined to fit the > fuel servo to the front. It appears there is clearance > between the rear of the sump and the engine mount. > > http://picasaweb.google.com/intelligentdesigngroup/FirewallForward#5311619666248489490 > > Still head scratching... > > chris stone RV8 Oregon > > > -----Original Message----- > >From: Greg <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> > >Sent: Apr 7, 2010 12:47 PM > >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RE: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > > > > >I used a C model sump on my 1st RV-6. I had the front > boss milled and tapped > >for studs to mount an Airflow Performance servo. That > was on a parallel > >valve O-360 so I had to adjust the intake tubes and > provide spacers to get > >them to fit. That shouldn't be needed on an angle valve > engine. The down > >side for my -6 was the sump sits farther aft than the A > model sump and I had > >to modify my engine mount to get clearance. I elected > to go with an A sump > >on my rebuild which also has tubes made for the > parallel valve engine. > > > >I have the C model sump available if you or anyone else > is interested. It > >has been modified to add the oil bosses (I've forgotten > if it was 1 or 2) > >for a Christen inverted system. The sump is magnesium > as are the added > >bosses. Rear has a cover plate and the front is setup > for the AFP servo. > >Contact me off list if interested. > > > >Regards, > >Greg Young > > > > > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > > >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] > On Behalf Of Chris Stone > >> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:32 AM > >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > >> Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > >> > > >> > >> Hello listers... > >> > >> Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel > controller) > >> to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the > sump boss to > >> accept the mounting of the fuel controller to the > front of the sump. > >> > >> Since this is a tuned induction system I am > concerned that by > >> switching the inlet to the front of the sump it > will detune > >> the system. > >> > >> Chris Stone > >> RV-8 > >> Oregon > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Forum - > FAQ, > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > List Contribution Web Site - > -Matt > Dralle, List Admin. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg...
Date: Apr 07, 2010
Matt=2C The aircraft MUST be registered and you have the registration in hand befor e the airworthiness inspection can take place. Mike Robertson Das Fed > Date: Tue=2C 6 Apr 2010 17:37:28 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list@matronics .com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg... > > > > I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final registration cert from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your Airworthiness cert =2C or is the pink copy of the registration sufficient? > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com Matt's RV-8 Building Log > Final Bits - Inspection then Test Flight... > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg...
Date: Apr 08, 2010
Matt: You MUST have the registration from Oklahoma City before you apply for the application for airworthiness on an Amateur Built Aircraft. What you are re ading is for CERTIFICATED aircraft. Good luck trying to find a DAR that will do the aircraft without the 8050-3 Registration from Oklahoma City. I am one DAR that will not do the airwor thiness inspection without the final 8050-3 Registration from Oklahoma City . Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C345+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA Date: Wed=2C 7 Apr 2010 14:27:19 -0700 om From: dralle(at)matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Registration vs. Airworthiness - Chicken & The Egg... At 05:37 PM 4/6/2010 Tuesday=2C you wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle I've gotten some conflicting reports. Do you have your final registration cert from the FAA in hand before you can apply for your Airworthiness cert=2C or is the pink copy of the registration sufficient? Matt Dralle I found the following bit of information on the FAA web site regarding registrations and the use of the Pink copy. Here's an excerpt from the link that follows: "You can also check the Document Index to see if recently mailed registration documents have arrived at the Aircraft Registration Branch. Arrival of registration documents in the Registry enables confirmation that application for registration has been made and temporary (pink-copy) operating authority is in effect. Processing registration documents related to a change in aircraft ownership averages 16 working days after their receipt." http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/aircraft_certification/aircraft_re gistry/registration_status/ To me=2C this sounds like as soon as the FAA has received the registration and entered it into the system as indicated by an on line status search=2C you are allowed to use the Pink copy until the real copy arrives. I would then assume that Airworthiness could be applied for under the same conditions...? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hot mail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=P ID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 09, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Weight & Balance Spreadsheet
Dear Listers, I finally weighted the 'ol RV-8 last night. Gulp. As expected, pretty heavy. I did forget to fill it up with oil before I weighed, however, so I'll have to redo my weighing after I do that. In the meantime, I created a spreadsheet to calculate the Weight & Balance. The sheet calculates a number of common scenarios and allows for the user-entering of various parameters such as pilot weight and plane weights as well as the various arms. Its setup for an RV-8, but could very easily be modified for other models of RVs. After I finished it, I thought other builders might like to use it as well. It comes with no guarantees whatsoever. You can click on the link below to download either the PDF or the Excel spreadsheet: PDF Format: http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.pdf Excel Format: http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.xls Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Weight & Balance Spreadsheet (Matt Dralle)
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Thanks for sharing, Matt. glen matejcek aerobubba(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Subject: Re: Weight & Balance Spreadsheet
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com>
Why re-weight it? If you know the weight of the oil and the arm of the oil sump, just do the math. IMHO. Dale On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 8:20 PM, Matt Dralle wrote: > > > Dear Listers, > > I finally weighted the 'ol RV-8 last night. Gulp. As expected, pretty heavy. I did forget to fill it up with oil before I weighed, however, so I'll have to redo my weighing after I do that. > > In the meantime, I created a spreadsheet to calculate the Weight & Balance. The sheet calculates a number of common scenarios and allows for the user-entering of various parameters such as pilot weight and plane weights as well as the various arms. Its setup for an RV-8, but could very easily be modified for other models of RVs. After I finished it, I thought other builders might like to use it as well. It comes with no guarantees whatsoever. > > You can click on the link below to download either the PDF or the Excel spreadsheet: > > PDF Format: > > http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.pdf > > > Excel Format: > > http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-Version1.0-MattDralle.xls > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Tom Wright <tomw(at)charterops.com>
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Subject: Re: RE: Weight & Balance Spreadsheet (Matt Dralle)
Very nice. Thanks. Tom Wright On Sat, Apr 10, 2010 at 5:45 AM, glen matejcek wrote: > > Thanks for sharing, Matt. > > > glen matejcek > aerobubba(at)earthlink.net > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Weight & Balance Spreadsheet
Date: Apr 10, 2010
Matt: Great spreadsheet for your use and education. Excellent use of "Conditiona l Formatting". Be advised that the FAA only needs to see the following: Empty Weight calculations. Gross Weight CG Calculations. Most Forward CG Calculations. Most Aft CG Calculations. First Flight CG Calculations. All the above must be at or within CG limits. DO NOT show the FAA any calc ulations that are OUTSIDE limits. As the builder=2C you set the gross weig ht but it is advisable to follow the designers numbers. IF you end up with a gross weight that is greater than what the designer set=2C know that you are operating outside the design envelope. As you already know=2C you must carry a copy of the weight and balance in t he aircraft and make it available for any ASI that asks to see it. If you use the WORST CASE loading for the above conditions=2C you have a "Go - No Go" bracket for any flight. Yes it is still good to know EXACTLY the loadin g but for a "Ramp Check"=2C the above minimum is all the FAA needs to see t o verify that you are operating safely. The above will also print out neat ly on one piece of paper if you use both sides. I would like to advise that you only give the FAA exactly what they need. Giving more than is needed could open you up for a lot of extra questions f rom the inspector. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C346+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Fri=2C 9 Apr 2010 17:20:07 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list@matronics .com=3B rv10-list(at)matronics.com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Weight & Balance Spreadsheet > > > > Dear Listers=2C > > I finally weighted the 'ol RV-8 last night. Gulp. As expected=2C pretty heavy. I did forget to fill it up with oil before I weighed=2C however=2C so I'll have to redo my weighing after I do that. > > In the meantime=2C I created a spreadsheet to calculate the Weight & Bala nce. The sheet calculates a number of common scenarios and allows for the user-entering of various parameters such as pilot weight and plane weights as well as the various arms. Its setup for an RV-8=2C but could very easil y be modified for other models of RVs. After I finished it=2C I thought ot her builders might like to use it as well. It comes with no guarantees wha tsoever. > > You can click on the link below to download either the PDF or the Excel s preadsheet: > > PDF Format: > > http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-V ersion1.0-MattDralle.pdf > > > Excel Format: > > http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV8/WeightAndBalance/RV-8WeightAndBalance-V ersion1.0-MattDralle.xls > > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inbox . http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 10, 2010
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Anybody need an "Extra Hand" in building their RV ??
Greetings: I have time to help someone on their Project. I have completed building the RV-8A empennage ( Acid etched, Alodined and Mil Epoxy Primed the interior skins and assembled) and have run out of room to continue building. Have tools to help someone on their Project. I am a retired electrical engineer and have designed my own Electrical System for the RV. Also designed an "Pilot Aux Warning System" that monitors Vans analog engine gauges and provides a Warning for - "Low Fuel", "Hi Oil Temp", "Low Voltage", etc Spent many ours researching the best way to do things on Matronics from other Builders. Hoped to use this info on my Project, but ran out of room to build, thus hoping to share ideas and help someone on their "Project". Garey Wittich (CFI, MEI) Santa Monica, CA (310) 392-1682 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
Group, =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub... instead of bothering the now retired FBO. =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- The zerk fittings on the hub don't see m like they are the same as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indi cates a loose fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everyw here but in the fittings! =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Either my new gun is defective or....as I su spect it takes a special gun and fittings????? =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2- Any ideas??=C2- Thanks,=C2-Tom in Ohio=C2- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often Aeroshell #6. Kelly A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > Group, > > I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease > gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the > now retired FBO. > > The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same > as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose > fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but > in the fittings! > > Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a > special gun and fittings????? > > Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio > > * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
Kelly, I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is plugged or the new gun is defective? I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease....6&7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on Mobil 28. I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 pint between changes. Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the zerk fittings doesn't work. Thanks, Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often Aeroshell #6. Kelly A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > Group, > > I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease > gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the > now retired FBO. > > The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same > as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose > fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but > in the fittings! > > Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a > special gun and fittings????? > > Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio > > * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
While I would try another gun, I advise strongly against using a different brand grease unless the hub is torn down, inspected and resealed. "compatible" is one thing in a gear leg or similar, and entirely different in a prop hub with relatively large quantity of grease that is going to be mixed for a long period of time. Hartzell advises against mixing grease in any way. Your prop is not the place to be trying a new brand. On 4/11/2010 9:13 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Tom& Cathy Ervin > > Kelly, > I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is plugged or the new gun is defective? > I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease....6&7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on Mobil 28. I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 pint between changes. > Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the zerk fittings doesn't work. > Thanks, Tom in Ohio > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kelly McMullen"<kellym(at)aviating.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun& Fittings > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard > grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end > removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often > Aeroshell #6. > Kelly > A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom& Cathy Ervin wrote: > >> >> Group, >> >> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease >> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the >> now retired FBO. >> >> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same >> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose >> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but >> in the fittings! >> >> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a >> special gun and fittings????? >> >> Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio >> >> * * >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
Date: Apr 11, 2010
Not familiar with Mobil 28 grease. I do know that there is a TEMPERATURE co nstraint for AeroShell 7 when used with the Hartzell prop. You need to plac ard the panel that operation is not permitted below -40 outside air tempera ture. My Hartzell was shipped with AeroShell 6 but the West Coast prop sh op that did the overhaul used AeroShell 7. AeroShell 7 is fine for the flyi ng that I do on the "LEFT" Coast but would want the AeroShell 6 if I lived back in Pennsylvania were I grew up and learned to fly. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C346+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Sun=2C 11 Apr 2010 12:13:26 -0400 > From: tcervin(at)embarqmail.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings > > > Kelly=2C > I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is pl ugged or the new gun is defective? > I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease....6 &7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on Mobil 28 . I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 pint between ch anges. > Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the zer k fittings doesn't work. > Thanks=2C Tom in O hio > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday=2C April 11=2C 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings > > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard > grease gun hose. However=2C be certain to remove the second zerk from the > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end=2C with one on each end > removed.) If you do not do this=2C you will push grease through the seals > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often > Aeroshell #6. > Kelly > A&P/IA=2C KCHD in Aridzona > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM=2C Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > > > > Group=2C > > > > I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease > > gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the > > now retired FBO. > > > > The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same > > as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose > > fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but > > in the fittings! > > > > Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a > > special gun and fittings????? > > > > Any ideas?? Thanks=2C Tom in O hio > > > > * * > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
Date: Apr 11, 2010
My Hartzell manual says that 6 and 7 can be mixed but if you do=2C there is a do NOT OPERATE below -40 OAT limitation that goes with the AeroShell 7 g rease. AeroShell 6 does not have that limitation. I agree that I would not change brands of grease without a reseal. I would only use the grease that Hartzell lists in their manual. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C346+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Sun=2C 11 Apr 2010 09:18:18 -0700 > From: kellym(at)aviating.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings > > > While I would try another gun=2C I advise strongly against using a > different brand grease unless the hub is torn down=2C inspected and > resealed. "compatible" is one thing in a gear leg or similar=2C and > entirely different in a prop hub with relatively large quantity of > grease that is going to be mixed for a long period of time. Hartzell > advises against mixing grease in any way. Your prop is not the place to > be trying a new brand. > > > On 4/11/2010 9:13 AM=2C Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: Tom& Cathy Ervin > > > > Kelly=2C > > I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is plugged or the new gun is defective? > > I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease.. ..6&7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on Mobil 28. I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 pint between changes. > > Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the zerk fittings doesn't work. > > Thanks=2C Tom i n Ohio > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Kelly McMullen"<kellym(at)aviating.com> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Sent: Sunday=2C April 11=2C 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Easte rn > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun& Fittings > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen > > > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard > > grease gun hose. However=2C be certain to remove the second zerk from t he > > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end=2C with one on each e nd > > removed.) If you do not do this=2C you will push grease through the sea ls > > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same > > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often > > Aeroshell #6. > > Kelly > > A&P/IA=2C KCHD in Aridzona > > > > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM=2C Tom& Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > >> > >> Group=2C > >> > >> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease > >> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the > >> now retired FBO. > >> > >> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same > >> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose > >> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but > >> in the fittings! > >> > >> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a > >> special gun and fittings????? > >> > >> Any ideas?? Thanks=2C Tom in Ohio > >> > >> * * > >> > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inb ox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: "J. Mcculley" <mcculleyja(at)starpower.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
Is your Hartzell prop new from the factory? It should not be a problem if new---NOT a used prop wherein someone could have changed the fittings. Mine has worked perfectly for 7 years. Possibly someone changed the fittings, if yours is not new from Hartzell, OR there is a problem with your grease gun not being a standard configuration common to automotive grease guns. Be sure you remove the opposite-side grease fitting as described in Kelly's response below. Jim McCulley ====================================================================================== Kelly McMullen wrote: > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard > grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end > removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often > Aeroshell #6. > Kelly > A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: >> >> >> Group, >> >> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease >> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the >> now retired FBO. >> >> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same >> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose >> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but >> in the fittings! >> >> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a >> special gun and fittings????? >> >> Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio >> >> * * > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
Date: Apr 11, 2010
What a great set of responses. I can find nothing t disagree with so far. These are all great pieces of information and come from the manufacturer. Let me add one small bit of gossip. When my prop was overhauled the shop put AS 7 in it. When I asked why, since it had come with 6. His response; "it don't leak." So there is a trade off between 6 and 7. My assumption is that 6 is "thinner" and 7 is "thicker". I am very happy with the -40 degree restriction. I wouldn't want to try starting the Lyc or the pilot at that temp, much less fly. I do cycle the prop before take off, in the winter, to make sure it is not sluggish. On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:29 , RV6 Flyer wrote: > My Hartzell manual says that 6 and 7 can be mixed but if you do, > there is a do NOT OPERATE below -40 OAT limitation that goes with > the AeroShell 7 grease. AeroShell 6 does not have that limitation. > > I agree that I would not change brands of grease without a reseal. > I would only use the grease that Hartzell lists in their manual. > > > Gary A. Sobek > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, > 2,346+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA > > > > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 09:18:18 -0700 > > From: kellym(at)aviating.com > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings > > > > > > While I would try another gun, I advise strongly against using a > > different brand grease unless the hub is torn down, inspected and > > resealed. "compatible" is one thing in a gear leg or similar, and > > entirely different in a prop hub with relatively large quantity of > > grease that is going to be mixed for a long period of time. Hartzell > > advises against mixing grease in any way. Your prop is not the > place to > > be trying a new brand. > > > > > > On 4/11/2010 9:13 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > > > > > > Kelly, > > > I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is > plugged or the new gun is defective? > > > I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease.... > 6&7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on > Mobil 28. I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 > pint between changes. > > > Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the > zerk fittings doesn't work. > > > Thanks, Tom in Ohio > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Kelly McMullen"<kellym(at)aviating.com> > > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada > Eastern > > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun& Fittings > > > > > > > > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with > standard > > > grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk > from the > > > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on > each end > > > removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through > the seals > > > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using > the same > > > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > > > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to > use...often > > > Aeroshell #6. > > > Kelly > > > A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona > > > > > > > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom& Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > > > >> > > >> Group, > > >> > > >> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease > > >> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of > bothering the > > >> now retired FBO. > > >> > > >> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same > > >> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose > > >> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes > everywhere but > > >> in the fittings! > > >> > > >> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a > > >> special gun and fittings????? > > >> > > >> Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio > > >> > > >> * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements
Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing. But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output. In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out there like this. I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS? Thanks!! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)AOL.COM
Date: Apr 11, 2010
Subject: Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements
Matt- The Vision Microsystems did it on the VM1000 is they have a simple inductive pickup (their P/N 3010005 for the Slick mags) that screws into the vent cap location on the right mag and picks up the movement of the rotor. It's a little pricey though ($380). -GV In a message dated 4/11/2010 10:29:21 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dralle(at)matronics.com writes: Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing. But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output. In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out there like this. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
The end of the grease gun is adjustable for a tighter or looser fit, right? Maybe its too loose on the fitting. I stuck with the aeroshell 6, as was originally used when assembled. On 4/11/10, Denis Walsh wrote: > What a great set of responses. > > I can find nothing t disagree with so far. These are all great pieces > of information and come from the manufacturer. > > Let me add one small bit of gossip. When my prop was overhauled the > shop put AS 7 in it. When I asked why, since it had come with 6. His > response; "it don't leak." > > So there is a trade off between 6 and 7. My assumption is that 6 is > "thinner" and 7 is "thicker". I am very happy with the -40 degree > restriction. I wouldn't want to try starting the Lyc or the pilot at > that temp, much less fly. I do cycle the prop before take off, in > the winter, to make sure it is not sluggish. > On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:29 , RV6 Flyer wrote: > >> My Hartzell manual says that 6 and 7 can be mixed but if you do, >> there is a do NOT OPERATE below -40 OAT limitation that goes with >> the AeroShell 7 grease. AeroShell 6 does not have that limitation. >> >> I agree that I would not change brands of grease without a reseal. >> I would only use the grease that Hartzell lists in their manual. >> >> >> Gary A. Sobek >> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, >> 2,346+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA >> >> >> >> > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 09:18:18 -0700 >> > From: kellym(at)aviating.com >> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings >> > >> > >> > While I would try another gun, I advise strongly against using a >> > different brand grease unless the hub is torn down, inspected and >> > resealed. "compatible" is one thing in a gear leg or similar, and >> > entirely different in a prop hub with relatively large quantity of >> > grease that is going to be mixed for a long period of time. Hartzell >> > advises against mixing grease in any way. Your prop is not the >> place to >> > be trying a new brand. >> > >> > >> > On 4/11/2010 9:13 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: >> > > >> > >> > > >> > > Kelly, >> > > I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is >> plugged or the new gun is defective? >> > > I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease.... >> 6&7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on >> Mobil 28. I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 >> pint between changes. >> > > Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the >> zerk fittings doesn't work. >> > > Thanks, Tom in Ohio >> > > ----- Original Message ----- >> > > From: "Kelly McMullen"<kellym(at)aviating.com> >> > > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> > > Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada >> Eastern >> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun& Fittings >> > > >> > > >> > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with >> standard >> > > grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk >> from the >> > > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on >> each end >> > > removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through >> the seals >> > > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using >> the same >> > > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is >> > > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to >> use...often >> > > Aeroshell #6. >> > > Kelly >> > > A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona >> > > >> > > >> > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom& Cathy Ervin wrote: >> > > >> > >> >> > >> Group, >> > >> >> > >> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease >> > >> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of >> bothering the >> > >> now retired FBO. >> > >> >> > >> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same >> > >> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose >> > >> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes >> everywhere but >> > >> in the fittings! >> > >> >> > >> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a >> > >> special gun and fittings????? >> > >> >> > >> Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio >> > >> >> > >> * * > > -- -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements
Matt, You may recall that I provided a suggestion of using a Westach inductive sender when you asked this question on the GRT yahoo group over a year ago: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/message/6872 Skylor Sent from my iPhone. On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:26 AM, Matt Dralle wrote: Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing. But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output. In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out there like this. I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS? Thanks!! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements
Matt, You may recall that I provided a suggestion of using a Westach inductive sender when you asked this question on the GRT yahoo group over a year ago: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/message/6872 Skylor Sent from my iPhone. On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:26 AM, Matt Dralle wrote: Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing. But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output. In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out there like this. I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS? Thanks!! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements
Yes, I do remember that thread. In fact, I have those pickups installed, but I'm not getting any reading on the EIS-4000 with either one of them. I'm using the vent hole closest to the engine block. Have you successfully interfaced them to the EIS-4000? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight At 02:12 PM 4/11/2010 Sunday, you wrote: > >Matt, > >You may recall that I provided a suggestion of using a Westach inductive sender when you asked this question on the GRT yahoo group over a year ago: > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/message/6872 > >Skylor > >Sent from my iPhone. > >On Apr 11, 2010, at 10:26 AM, Matt Dralle wrote: > > >Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing. But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output. In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out there like this. > >I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS? > >Thanks!! > >Matt Dralle Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
Mobil 28 is used by the defense industry and exceeds all Hartzell recommend ations. =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2 -=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 12:24:53 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: RE: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings Not familiar with Mobil 28 grease. I do know that there is a TEMPERATURE co nstraint for AeroShell 7 when used with the Hartzell prop. You need to plac ard the panel that operation is not permitted below -40 outside air tempera ture.=C2-=C2- My Hartzell was shipped with AeroShell 6 but the West Coa st prop shop that did the overhaul used AeroShell 7. AeroShell 7 is fine fo r the flying that I do on the "LEFT" Coast but would want the AeroShell 6 i f I lived back in Pennsylvania were I grew up and learned to fly. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,346+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2010 12:13:26 -0400 > From: tcervin(at)embarqmail.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings > > > Kelly, > I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is plugged o r the new gun is defective? > I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease....6&7. She ll has been used in the past but I like the testing data on Mobil 28. I als o use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 pint between changes. > Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the zerk fitt ings doesn't work. > Thanks, Tom in Ohio > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings > > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard > grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end > removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often > Aeroshell #6. > Kelly > A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > > > > > > Group, > > > > I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease > > gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the > > now retired FBO. > > > > The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same > > as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose > > fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but > > in the fittings! > > > > Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a > > special gun and fittings????? > > > > Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio > > &=================== > > > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your =============== == ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
It was new from the factory. Tom in Ohio. ----- Original Message ----- From: "J. Mcculley" <mcculleyja(at)starpower.net> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 12:30:55 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings Is your Hartzell prop new from the factory? It should not be a problem if new---NOT a used prop wherein someone could have changed the fittings. Mine has worked perfectly for 7 years. Possibly someone changed the fittings, if yours is not new from Hartzell, OR there is a problem with your grease gun not being a standard configuration common to automotive grease guns. Be sure you remove the opposite-side grease fitting as described in Kelly's response below. Jim McCulley ====================================================================================== Kelly McMullen wrote: > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard > grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end > removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often > Aeroshell #6. > Kelly > A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: >> >> >> Group, >> >> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease >> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the >> now retired FBO. >> >> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same >> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose >> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but >> in the fittings! >> >> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a >> special gun and fittings????? >> >> Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio >> >> * * > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Tom & Cathy Ervin <tcervin(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
The gun was the problem! I had to replace the fitting on the end and now it works perfectly. I understand your concern with changing brands but my past experence with shell products have not been good.....won't use them. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 12:18:18 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings While I would try another gun, I advise strongly against using a different brand grease unless the hub is torn down, inspected and resealed. "compatible" is one thing in a gear leg or similar, and entirely different in a prop hub with relatively large quantity of grease that is going to be mixed for a long period of time. Hartzell advises against mixing grease in any way. Your prop is not the place to be trying a new brand. On 4/11/2010 9:13 AM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Tom& Cathy Ervin > > Kelly, > I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is plugged or the new gun is defective? > I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease....6&7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on Mobil 28. I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 pint between changes. > Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the zerk fittings doesn't work. > Thanks, Tom in Ohio > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kelly McMullen"<kellym(at)aviating.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun& Fittings > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen > > I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard > grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the > same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end > removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals > and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same > grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is > supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often > Aeroshell #6. > Kelly > A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona > > > On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom& Cathy Ervin wrote: > >> >> Group, >> >> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease >> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the >> now retired FBO. >> >> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same >> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose >> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but >> in the fittings! >> >> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a >> special gun and fittings????? >> >> Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio >> >> * * >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Hartzell Prop Grease gun & Fittings
The problem is you need to purge the Shell that is already in the hub. There is NOT a good way to do that. Mixing is taking a big risk. On 4/11/2010 2:49 PM, Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Tom& Cathy Ervin > > The gun was the problem! I had to replace the fitting on the end and now it works perfectly. > I understand your concern with changing brands but my past experence with shell products have not been good.....won't use them. > Tom in Ohio > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kelly McMullen"<kellym(at)aviating.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 12:18:18 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun& Fittings > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen > > While I would try another gun, I advise strongly against using a > different brand grease unless the hub is torn down, inspected and > resealed. "compatible" is one thing in a gear leg or similar, and > entirely different in a prop hub with relatively large quantity of > grease that is going to be mixed for a long period of time. Hartzell > advises against mixing grease in any way. Your prop is not the place to > be trying a new brand. > > > On 4/11/2010 9:13 AM, Tom& Cathy Ervin wrote: > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Tom& Cathy Ervin >> >> Kelly, >> I have done everything as you have listed....maybe a fitting is plugged or the new gun is defective? >> I am using Mobil 28 which is compatible with all Shell grease....6&7. Shell has been used in the past but I like the testing data on Mobil 28. I also use Exxon Elite oils and in 100 hrs I have added 1 pint between changes. >> Looks like I may be buying a better quality gun if cleaning the zerk fittings doesn't work. >> Thanks, Tom in Ohio >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Kelly McMullen"<kellym(at)aviating.com> >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 11:26:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hartzell Prop Grease gun& Fittings >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen >> >> I've not had an issue with zerk fittings on my Hartzell with standard >> grease gun hose. However, be certain to remove the second zerk from the >> same end of the hub(you should have 2 on each end, with one on each end >> removed.) If you do not do this, you will push grease through the seals >> and start your prop hub leaking. Also be certain you are using the same >> grease that the hub has been serviced with in the past. There is >> supposed to be a sticker on the hub as to which grease to use...often >> Aeroshell #6. >> Kelly >> A&P/IA, KCHD in Aridzona >> >> >> On 4/11/2010 7:42 AM, Tom& Cathy Ervin wrote: >> >> >>> Group, >>> >>> I thought I would break down and buy grease and a new grease >>> gun to annually grease my Hartzell prop hub...instead of bothering the >>> now retired FBO. >>> >>> The zerk fittings on the hub don't seem like they are the same >>> as automotive? The test fit against a new gun indicates a loose >>> fit....doesn't snap on like I'm used to??? Grease goes everywhere but >>> in the fittings! >>> >>> Either my new gun is defective or....as I suspect it takes a >>> special gun and fittings????? >>> >>> Any ideas?? Thanks, Tom in Ohio >>> >>> * * >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements
I sent my EIS 4000 back to Grand Rapids for updating to the latest firmware while my aircraft was down for paint. Looking at the new manual that came back with the updated unit, I see that it now has two rpm inputs, and it looks like it will automatically switch between them to pick the one that has a signal at any given time. This seems to be intended to solve exactly your problem. Open questions, which are maybe answered in the manual, but I forgot it at work, so I can't check now: 1. what happens if the two ignition systems that are connected to the two inputs require different pulse/revolution numbers? I don't recall seeing a way to define different pulse/revolution numbers for the two rpm inputs. 2. which rpm input does it use when both have a signal? I recommend you contact GRT. Perhaps you simply need to get your EIS updated. They turn them around pretty quickly, so you won't lose much time. Kevin Horton RV-8 Ottawa, Canada Matt Dralle wrote: > > > Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing. But that's pretty hoekey. Seems like someone should have come up with a simple prioritized switching circuit that would, say, always read the left mag p lead unless there wasn't a signal, then read the right mag P lead output. In my "spare time" maybe I'll make one if there isn't something already out there like this. > > I thought that once upon a time I saw an electronic gizmo you could screw into the standard tack drive that would give an electronic output. Anyone have a line on this device and whether its compatible with the GRT EIS? > > Thanks!! > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 11, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: First Engine Start - Lycoming IO-390 Purrrrrzzz!
Dear Listers, The first start on the new Lycoming IO-390 from AeroSport went great. No major issues to speak of. The exhaust bolts on the left rear cylinder were a little bit loose, the hall-effect RPM sensors in the mags didn't seem to work, and there was a small fuel leak coming from the fittings on one of the fuel pressure transducers. Other than that, WOW! What a powerful engine! In the video, I only got to about 1/3 throttle and it felt like it wanted to jump off the ground! Really strong sounding and the 4-into-4 Vetterman exhaust really gives the motor a throaty sound. All of the controls (throttle, mixture, and prop) worked as expected. Cycling the prop pitch worked great. Fuel flow was good and I tested feeds from both the left and right tanks. The left and right mags also checked out good as did the kill switch. AeroSport bench ran the engine for 11.5 hours at my request. This should get me well past the critical breakin period. The ease at which it started attests to that as well. Wow! That's all I've got to say! I can hardly wait to point this baby down the runway and "get 'er done"! In addition to the usual still-picture fair I normally attached to my log entries, I've now added YouTube videos as well! And - they're in full 1080p HDTV resolution too! When the YouTube player comes up, in the lower right hand corner it will say "360p" by default. Select the highest setting that works on your computer without stuttering (480p/720p/1080p). The HDTV versions are amazing clear. I can hardly wait to get some air-to-air shots. The cameras are Sony HDR-CX550V and HDR-XR550V units and sport 64GB of flash and a 240GB hard drive respectively. They record in full 1080 HD and Dolby digital 5.1 surround sound. I have the HDR-CX550V mounted on a head rest mount on the back of the pilot's seat and the HDR-XR550V is used for tripod or hand held action capture. The head rest mount is a little too low to see over my shoulder and I've got an extension ordered that should lift it well over the obstruction. I edited the various clips down using Adobe Premiere CS4, which is very nice, btw. HDTV Videos (Select the 480p, 720p, or 1080p HD Quality Versions!) First Engine Start http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK-dIxL9aJ8 Testing Fuel Flow Sender http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5NWP9W8pko Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 12, 2010
Subject: Re: First Engine Start - Lycoming IO-390 Purrrrrzzz!
I had the pleasure of being present at N998RV's startup and can attest to the healthy bark of the mighty IO-390. Matt's metal work and interior are nothing short of outstanding. She's going to be one sweet ride. If Matt goes ahead with the paint he has planned, he will not be able to sneak into any airport in the country. -GV In a message dated 4/11/2010 10:05:24 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dralle(at)matronics.com writes: Dear Listers, The first start on the new Lycoming IO-390 from AeroSport went great. No major issues to speak of. The exhaust bolts on the left rear cylinder were a little bit loose, the hall-effect RPM sensors in the mags didn't seem to work, and there was a small fuel leak coming from the fittings on one of the fuel pressure transducers. Other than that, WOW! What a powerful engine! In the video, I only got to about 1/3 throttle and it felt like it wanted to jump off the ground! Really strong sounding and the 4-into-4 Vetterman exhaust really gives the motor a throaty sound. All of the controls (throttle, mixture, and prop) worked as expected. Cycling the prop pitch worked great. Fuel flow was good and I tested feeds from both the left and right tanks. The left and right mags also checked out good as did the kill switch. AeroSport bench ran the engine for 11.5 hours at my request. This should get me well past the critical breakin period. The ease at which it started attests to that as well. Wow! That's all I've got to say! I can hardly wait to point this baby down the runway and "get 'er done"! In addition to the usual still-picture fair I normally attached to my log entries, I've now added YouTube videos as well! And - they're in full 1080p HDTV resolution too! When the YouTube player comes up, in the lower right hand corner it will say "360p" by default. Select the highest setting that works on your computer without stuttering (480p/720p/1080p). The HDTV versions are amazing clear. I can hardly wait to get some air-to-air shots. The cameras are Sony HDR-CX550V and HDR-XR550V units and sport 64GB of flash and a 240GB hard drive respectively. They record in full 1080 HD and Dolby digital 5.1 surround sound. I have the HDR-CX550V mounted on a head rest mount on the back of the pilot's seat and the HDR-XR550V is used for tripod or hand held action capture. The head rest mount is a little too low to see over my shoulder and I've got an extension ordered that should lift it well over the obstruction. I edited the various clips down using Adobe Premiere CS4, which is very nice, btw. HDTV Videos (Select the 480p, 720p, or 1080p HD Quality Versions!) First Engine Start http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QK-dIxL9aJ8 Testing Fuel Flow Sender http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5NWP9W8pko Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RPM Transducer
From: Ian <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Date: Apr 12, 2010
Matt, I believe the tranducer for RPM is IE VTACHGEN 2 from Van's and it works fine on my RV-9A straight off the tach port on the back of the engine. I have a Rocky Mountain micromonitor which accepts a similar pulse from the P-lead. It asks how many pulses per engine rotation in the setup so you could operate it on just one P-lead, or both. They instruct the builder to just put a capacitor in the lead to the instrument, which allows you to "y" the two leads/capacitors to one signal lead. Great video of first start. Ian Brown From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV-List: Circuit To Combine Mag P-Lead For RPM Measurements Has anyone found a device or circuit to pick off the output from the P leads on the left and right mags for feeding to an RPM measuring device such as the GRT EIS-4000? The EIS-4000 only has a single RPM input. The installation manual suggests installing a SPDT switch between the left/right mags and then to the input on the EIS-4000 for manually switching between the mags during drop testing." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Meyette" <bmeyette(at)gmail.com>
Subject: FS: RV-7A ~80% complete
Date: Apr 12, 2010
I've decided to sell my RV-7A project. It's just dragged on and on, and I've lost interest in completing it. I have more interest in just flying my Challenger II. Engine is Subaru WRX STi 2.5 L supercharged. All the bugs are worked out of the original Eggenfellner product. Most Eggenfellner-supplied components have been replaced; SDS ECU, custom radiators, new wiring harness, supercharger gearing. Engine runs great, and all it needs is probably some more fine-tuning of the SDS ECU. John Moody in Australia has been flying his awhile. Includes latest Gen3 rev 4 PSRU, installed. Includes MT7 electric prop, installed. Three EFIS systems installed - Blue Mountain "gold box" EFIS/One, GRT Horizon, and Dynon D10. Blue Mountain AP installed. GRT EIS installed Full Garmin stack trays installed & SL-30 included. Sandia TSOd encoder, Tipup canopy completed but not final-installed. Needs rear window installed, 1 panel each wing installed, top fuse panel behind window and fwd of canopy installed (left out for wiring access). No fiberglass work done. Includes Advanced Flight Systems AoA, wig-wag HID lights, bulletproof electrical system based on Bob Nuckolls' designs and Hyperion products, low fuel warning, low coolant warning, fuel pressure warning, electric flaps, electric trim, custom console, heater, Oregon Aero seats, Hooker harness, Show Planes Flaps Positioning System, Infinity Aerospace grips, cabin lighting, custom baggage compartment and other customizations (see my custom page http://www.meyette.us/custom.htm ). Includes finishing kit and all parts (except remaining Garmin components) to finish it. All gear mounted and brakes installed. Van's front gear leg SB installed. Panel complete, except Garmin wiring. Empennage is done & final-installed. Flaps & ailerons all done. Wings not installed. And much more - this is a list off the top of my head of some of the main components. Entire project very extensively documented at http://www.meyette.us/RV-7Ahome.htm No effort or expense spared in doing everything RIGHT. Only asking $55k for it - way less than cost and making the FWF essentially FREE. Will also trade for an RV-12 23:32:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ronald vandervort <ronvan(at)q.com>
Subject: Landing gear/engine mount cracks 1470 hrs RV-6
Date: Apr 12, 2010
1. Thanks to Charles Kuss for the info on how to remove the adhesive under flap wear strip. 2. Cracks in engine mount at loweroutboard firewall mount bosses: RV6 with 1470 hrs TT Called Van's; they said it has been happening on some aircraft and to get it welded in place within the next 50 hrs. They suggested adding a gusset plate that has been added to all RV7s. We pulled engine/gear assembly forward and clear of firewall and welded the cracks then added the gusset plate on both sides. This aircraft has been used for allot of training and has seen some hard landings.........although only found the cracks during this February annual condition inspection even though a couple of the hard landings had me looking closely about 400 hrs ago. The cracks were in the weld bead itself on the underside of the mount bolt boss. Landings will be monitored a bit more closely from here on out. Heh, heh! Ron Vandervort ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 14, 2010
Subject: Re: VM1000 Oil Pressure
All- In the spirit of documenting problems for posterity here is my story on a recent problem with the Oil Pressure circuit of the VM1000 system. The oil pressure system uses a transducer (50 mV full range 0-100 psig). During my last flight in cruise, I developed a low oil pressure reading. It was low across the board (both at cruise and idle). Taught to believe my gauges, I aborted the flight and cautiously returned to the field. I did normal troubleshooting by following the VM documentation and was unable to identify any significant anomalies in the wiring. I removed the oil pressure transducer (Vision Microsystems P/N 3010018, Honeywell M/N MM100PG1QA, Honeywell Data Instruments P/N 9302904) and connected it up on the bench to a 5 VDC supply voltage across pins 2 and 4 and screwed it into a manifold along with a 0-100 psig mechanical (steam) gauge. Playing with compressed air I was able to check the output of the transducer across pins 1 and 3 over the range 10-80 psi and all was smooth and well. This transducer is designed to put out 0.5mV/PSI, so 30 psig=15 mV, 40 psig mV and so on. I put it all back together and all is now well, so here is my analysis. The low output of this transducer system is okay as long as your terminals (in this case they are all Tin plated) are good and clean. After 12 years of being on the engine side of the firewall they may have oxidized a mite or gotten a little bit of oil on the terminals dropping a little bit of that already low mV. A gas tight connection is a good connection, but these are just slip-on quick-disconnect terminals. The more environmentally resistant Hirshmann connector equipped version of this transducer (change Honeywell M/N suffix from QA to HA) is probably much more resistant to this situation and is probably a good option going forward. I think that the newer VM systems ship with the Hirshmanns. My VM was bought back in 1996. Removal of the terminals burnished the connections removing the voltage drop and all is now functional. Probably would be a good idea to check and reseat these periodically. N1GV (RV-6A Flying 936TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: VM1000 Oil Pressure
Date: Apr 14, 2010
Oxidation is the scurge of connections. Maybe throwing a little dielectric grease into the terminals of the sensor probably wouldn't hurt, either. It might eliminate most upkeep, since it keeps the air off of them. As you may know already, it is considered an insulator, so it should not effect any readings, in fact it will help keep stuff off the terminals that might affect the readings, such as oil, water, etc. For ease of obtaining, it should be able to be found at most automotive outlets, most probably. Just a thought. Greg Fuchs ...hope to get back to the bird soon, from almost a 6-month break....time seems to fly even faster if not working on her _____________________ ... After 12 years of being on the engine side of the firewall they may have oxidized a mite or gotten a little bit of oil on the terminals dropping a little bit of that already low mV. A gas tight connection is a good connection, but these are just slip-on quick-disconnect terminals. The more environmentally resistant Hirshmann connector equipped version of this transducer (change Honeywell M/N suffix from QA to HA) is probably much more resistant to this situation and is probably a good option going forward. I think that the newer VM systems ship with the Hirshmanns. My VM was bought back in 1996. Removal of the terminals burnished the connections removing the voltage drop and all is now functional. Probably would be a good idea to check and reseat these periodically. N1GV (RV-6A Flying 936TTAE Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Builders at OAK and HWD
From: Parker Thomas <me(at)parkerthomas.com>
Date: Apr 15, 2010
Hi - Does anyone know of builders currently building at OAK or HWD? I'm hoping just to say hi. I've finished an 8 and rebuilt a 6 and just want to make sure I don't get too rusty while waiting for my kids to get big enough to help. Feel free to email me offline at me(at)parkerthomas.com. Thanks, Parker _________________________ RV-8 N626CT, IO-360, QB Fuse and SB Wings RV6A N421PT, 0-320 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 15, 2010
Subject: Re: Builders at OAK and HWD
From: Chris Colohan <rv10(at)colohan.com>
There are a few local EAA chapters in the area. I've joined EAA 338, and they seem like a good group of builders. I'm working on a 10 near KPAO. Chris On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 10:32 AM, Parker Thomas wrote: > > Hi - > > Does anyone know of builders currently building at OAK or HWD? I'm hoping > just to say hi. > > I've finished an 8 and rebuilt a 6 and just want to make sure I don't get > too rusty while waiting for my kids to get big enough to help. Feel free to > email me offline at me(at)parkerthomas.com. > > Thanks, > > Parker > > > _________________________ > RV-8 N626CT, IO-360, QB Fuse and SB Wings > RV6A N421PT, 0-320 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: Opening Cowl Hinge Sections - just a bit...
Date: Apr 15, 2010
Guys, It has been very difficult to pin the top and bottom cowl sections together. I have resorted to using a drill to "screw" music wire through the hinge sections. There were lots of good suggestions to try from other builders. One of them was opening the individual hinge sections just a bit for greater clearance for the pin. Today I took a spare piece of .090 music wire and flattened it for about an inch in length and about an inch from a tapered end. To do this I positioned the the wire on the anvil portion of a vice and struck it with a heavy hammer. I then ran the wire through the upper and lower hinge sections separately. I used an electric drill to rotate the wire while doing this. Rotate the wire to open the hinge - the top and bottom are opposite each other. I flattened the wire a second time to open the sections a bit more. No metal is removed from the sections - they just open up a bit. It really helped the process of joining the top and bottom sections. For what it's worth... Joe Connell RV-9A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Re: Opening Cowl Hinge Sections - just a bit...
Date: Apr 15, 2010
Have you flown the plane? I have found that after you run the engine through a few hot cycles, they insert much easier..... Sent from my iPhone On Apr 15, 2010, at 6:01 PM, "Joe & Jan Connell" wrote: > Guys, > > It has been very difficult to pin the top and bottom cowl sections > together. I have resorted to using a drill to "screw" music wire > through the hinge sections. There were lots of good suggestions to > try from other builders. One of them was opening the individual > hinge sections just a bit for greater clearance for the pin. > > Today I took a spare piece of .090 music wire and flattened it for > about an inch in length and about an inch from a tapered end. To do > this I positioned the the wire on the anvil portion of a vice and > struck it with a heavy hammer. I then ran the wire through the > upper and lower hinge sections separately. I used an electric drill > to rotate the wire while doing this. Rotate the wire to open the > hinge - the top and bottom are opposite each other. I flattened the > wire a second time to open the sections a bit more. No metal is > removed from the sections - they just open up a bit. > > It really helped the process of joining the top and bottom > sections. For what it's worth... > > Joe Connell > RV-9A > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: Opening Cowl Hinge Sections - just a bit...
Date: Apr 15, 2010
Builders, While fitting cowl halves I also found it difficult to insert the hinge wires. This worked for me: I stood the cowl halves up on the nose on some foam to minimizes damage and inserted the hinge wires from the firewall end until they resisted due to misaligned hinge segments. At each tight hinge segment I used a small ball peen hammer and a one eight inch drift punch to gently realign the individual segments this way and that until the hinge wire install freed up. The whole effort took about an hour and the end result allows the insertion of the hinge wires barehanded. To lube the wires I used A bar of ivory hand soap for the early installs. Doing so eliminated the need for oils and silicone lubes that might be a hassle during the later painting stages etc. I now re-lube with the soap about twice a year or when the wires start to feel a bit draggy. Good flight Greased landings, Jim in Kelowna (no license RV6-A for sale if you know any buyers) _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe & Jan Connell Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2010 3:02 PM Subject: RV-List: Opening Cowl Hinge Sections - just a bit... Guys, It has been very difficult to pin the top and bottom cowl sections together. I have resorted to using a drill to "screw" music wire through the hinge sections. There were lots of good suggestions to try from other builders. One of them was opening the individual hinge sections just a bit for greater clearance for the pin. Today I took a spare piece of .090 music wire and flattened it for about an inch in length and about an inch from a tapered end. To do this I positioned the the wire on the anvil portion of a vice and struck it with a heavy hammer. I then ran the wire through the upper and lower hinge sections separately. I used an electric drill to rotate the wire while doing this. Rotate the wire to open the hinge - the top and bottom are opposite each other. I flattened the wire a second time to open the sections a bit more. No metal is removed from the sections - they just open up a bit. It really helped the process of joining the top and bottom sections. For what it's worth... Joe Connell RV-9A http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution ====== Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.14790) http://www.pctools.com ======= ====== Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.14790) http://www.pctools.com/ ====== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: russell parr <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: =?iso-2022-jp?B?UkU6eGlua2VrZQ==?= =?iso-2022-jp?B?ICAgICAgICAgIA==?=
=?iso-2022-jp?B?ICAgICAgGyRCIXwbKEI=?
Date: Apr 17, 2010
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Date: Apr 18, 2010
From: Roger Smart <roger(at)smartdrive.com>
Subject: Lightspeed Ignition Module
Completing the firewall forward on a RV-8A O-360 4 cyl. I have one mag and one Lightspeed Plasma III. I am locating the Ignition Module would like some feedback on experiences from others. My concern is ignition noise in radios and interference with sensor wires. Mounting on the cold side of the firewall is difficult due to space unless I mount the module right behind the panel causing potential interference. Has anyone experienced noise or sensor interference problems and what did you do to solve them? Has anyone mounted the module on the hot side of the firewall? How did you protect against heat and moisture? Any problems with a hot side installation? Also the instructions has the power go straight from the battery or battery side of the master relay to a "pull-able" circuit breaker and allows the unit to be turned on and off with a standard mag p-lead type connection. "all Plasma II Plus and Plasma III CDI systems can be operated with a standard aircraft key switch. A "P"-Lead (wired to the output connector) is provided and should be connected to the key switch in the same way as the magneto "P"-Lead. There is no current drain on your battery when power is supplied via the input connector and the key switch is in the off position. A pull-able circuit breaker should still be installed in the positive power wire." Even though it states there is no power draw you still have a unprotected wire from the battery to the panel breaker that is hot 24/7 and unless you pull the breaker, the wire is hot all the way to the module even when parked. This just does not seem reasonable. I would like to know what others have done. Thanks, Roger Smart ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2010
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Lightspeed Ignition Module
Howdy Roger, We've got an early Plasma ignition on our 6A that I relocated as sort of a flat pack under the panel a few years back. There is no radio interference and no perceivable interference to any sensor wires. The high voltage is from the coils to the plugs and the coils are on the forward side of the firewall. I don't know if Klaus still calls for cooling air to the module. The early ones had some issues with a power transformer getting hot. Ours originally had a 3/8"ID hose from some rinky dink fan and ran hot to the touch. When I relocated it, I hogged the inlet out to 5/8" and hooked up a good avionics fan. Now it runs much cooler. We did have the transformer replaced at that time and it did look cooked. I'd be leery of putting on the hot side unless Klaus is OK with it. The reason for the breaker is that Klaus has some sort of overvoltage protection circuit in the ignition module that will short the power line if it exceeds some set figure. I guess the plan is to remove the high voltage before it can damage the ignition. Then, after the alternator is offline, you could reset it. If you have some sort of overvoltage protection already built in to your system, aeroelectric connection style for instance, this will never come up. It'll probably never come up, anyway, as alternator runaway is a pretty rare event. Still, I'd wire it as he drew it. Klaus doesn't want the line from the battery going through any other busses, fuses or other power distribution devices. People have managed to have both ignitions shut down by modifying this scheme without thinking it all the way through. The issue is providing the most reliable voltage source possible. Your concern about the unprotected hot wire is valid, but if the ignition unit actually does crowbar open the breaker, you'd rather it didn't also open a fuse or some other protective device where you can't reset it. If you are careful with how this wire is routed and supported, shorting out will not become an issue. The standard ignition/start switch is a potential single point of failure for both ignitions. Klaus made available the P-lead style on/off setup for the ignition because people wanted to use the standard mag switch, not because it is necessarily the best way to do it. Ours is wired with 2 toggle switches. For one thing, it removes power completely from the ignition, when switched off, for another, you know which ignition you are switching off during runup and for trouble shooting. The keyed mag switch can be a bit confusing when you are trying to figure out an ignition problem. If you are worried about unauthorized access to your plane, put on a throttle lock. Those keyed switches aren't very secure, anyway. A friend of mine just hunted through a drawer of old keys and we were able to start an airplane for which we had no key, the other day. Think all of your decisions about how to wire the ignition system through. Look at any possible way it could fail to keep the motor running. When you are satisfied that you've come up with the strongest possible design, then carefully implement it paying attention to protecting the wiring from vibration, abrasion, contamination, heat, loosening of connections, etc.. For more discussion of these issues (and other wiring related discussions), see the archives at the aeroelectric connection list on matronics.com. Pax, Ed Holyoke Roger Smart wrote: > > Completing the firewall forward on a RV-8A O-360 4 cyl. I have one mag > and one Lightspeed Plasma III. I am locating the Ignition Module > would like some feedback on experiences from others. My concern is > ignition noise in radios and interference with sensor wires. Mounting > on the cold side of the firewall is difficult due to space unless I > mount the module right behind the panel causing potential > interference. Has anyone experienced noise or sensor interference > problems and what did you do to solve them? Has anyone mounted the > module on the hot side of the firewall? How did you protect against > heat and moisture? Any problems with a hot side installation? > > > > Also the instructions has the power go straight from the battery or > battery side of the master relay to a "pull-able" circuit breaker and > allows the unit to be turned on and off with a standard mag p-lead > type connection. > > > > "all Plasma II Plus and Plasma III CDI systems can be operated with a > standard aircraft key switch. A "P"-Lead (wired to the output > connector) is provided and should be connected to the key switch in > the same way as the magneto "P"-Lead. There is no current drain on > your battery when power is supplied via the input connector and the > key switch is in the off position. A pull-able circuit breaker should > still be installed in the positive power wire." > > > > Even though it states there is no power draw you still have a > unprotected wire from the battery to the panel breaker that is hot > 24/7 and unless you pull the breaker, the wire is hot all the way to > the module even when parked. This just does not seem reasonable. I > would like to know what others have done. > > Thanks, Roger Smart > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2010
From: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lightspeed Ignition Module
As to the hot side of the firewall... Klaus emailed me and stated it should not be an issue. I mounted mine on the firewall with a 5/8" blast tube, al so a shroud to cover the unit were the blast tube mounts both ends open. I also put a temp sensor on the shroud, in flight runs about 79 degrees, land ing and taxi will get to 107 degrees which is much under the working 150 de grees Klaus states and the harsh testing of 200 degrees Klaus uses in the t est bed. Sitting in the sun on the ramp, you will see hotter temps on the b ox than the 107 degrees in taxi I'm seeing. =C2- -d- --- On Sun, 4/18/10, Roger Smart wrote: From: Roger Smart <roger(at)smartdrive.com> Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Ignition Module Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 11:06 AM Completing the firewall forward on a RV-8A O-360 4 cyl. I have one mag and one Lightspeed Plasma III.=C2- I am locating the Ignition Module would li ke some feedback on experiences from others.=C2- My concern is ignition n oise in radios and interference with sensor wires.=C2- Mounting on the co ld side of the firewall is difficult due to space unless I mount the module right behind the panel causing potential interference.=C2- =C2-Has any one experienced noise or sensor interference problems and what did you do t o solve them?=C2- Has anyone mounted the module on the hot side of the fi rewall? How did you protect against heat and moisture?=C2- Any problems w ith a hot side installation? =C2- Also the instructions has the power go straight from the battery or battery side of the master relay to a =9Cpull-able=9D circuit breaker and allows the unit to be turned on and off with a standard mag p-lead type connection.=C2- =C2- =9Call Plasma II Plus and Plasma III CDI systems can be operated with a standard aircraft key switch.=C2- A "P"-Lead (wired to the output conn ector) is provided and should be connected to the key switch in the same wa y as the magneto "P"-Lead. =C2-There is no current drain on your battery when power is supplied via the input connector and the key switch is in the off position.=C2- A pull-able circuit breaker should still be installed in the positive power wire.=9D =C2- Even though it states there is no power draw you still have a unprotected w ire from the battery to the panel breaker that is hot 24/7 and unless you p ull the breaker, the wire is hot all the way to the module even when parked .=C2- This just does not seem reasonable.=C2- I would like to know what others have done.=C2- =C2- Thanks, Roger Smart =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N122RL(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 19, 2010
Subject: Re: Lightspeed Ignition Module
I have had mine mounted on the hot side of the firewall without any blast tubes. Have had no problems in over 600 hrs. RV6A 160 hp. In a message dated 4/18/2010 10:18:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo.com writes: As to the hot side of the firewall... Klaus emailed me and stated it should not be an issue. I mounted mine on the firewall with a 5/8" blast tube, also a shroud to cover the unit were the blast tube mounts both ends open . I also put a temp sensor on the shroud, in flight runs about 79 degrees, landing and taxi will get to 107 degrees which is much under the working 150 degrees Klaus states and the harsh testing of 200 degrees Klaus uses in the test bed. Sitting in the sun on the ramp, you will see hotter temps on th e box than the 107 degrees in taxi I'm seeing. -d- --- On Sun, 4/18/10, Roger Smart wrote: From: Roger Smart <roger(at)smartdrive.com> Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Ignition Module Date: Sunday, April 18, 2010, 11:06 AM Completing the firewall forward on a RV-8A O-360 4 cyl. I have one mag an d one Lightspeed Plasma III. I am locating the Ignition Module would like some feedback on experiences from others. My concern is ignition noise in radios and interference with sensor wires. Mounting on the cold side of the firewall is difficult due to space unless I mount the module right behin d the panel causing potential interference. Has anyone experienced noise or sensor interference problems and what did you do to solve them? Has anyone mounted the module on the hot side of the firewall? How did you pr otect against heat and moisture? Any problems with a hot side installation? Also the instructions has the power go straight from the battery or battery side of the master relay to a =9Cpull-able=9D circuit breaker and allows the unit to be turned on and off with a standard mag p-lead type connecti on. =9Call Plasma II Plus and Plasma III CDI systems can be operated wi th a standard aircraft key switch. A "P"-Lead (wired to the output connector) is provided and should be connected to the key switch in the same way as the magneto "P"-Lead. There is no current drain on your battery when power is supplied via the input connector and the key switch is in the off positio n. A pull-able circuit breaker should still be installed in the positive pow er wire.=9D Even though it states there is no power draw you still have a unprotected wire from the battery to the panel breaker that is hot 24/7 and unless yo u pull the breaker, the wire is hot all the way to the module even when parked. This just does not seem reasonable. I would like to know what others have done. Thanks, Roger Smart =nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ======================== ============ (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) ======================== ============ ======================== ============ (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ======================== ============ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2010
Subject: Re: Lightspeed Ignition Module
From: Richard Martin <martinaerodrome(at)gmail.com>
Roger, I installed my ignition modules in the baggage compartment of my RV8 on the cockpit side. I now have well over 1000 hours of time on this installation with no problems of any type. Note: I have dual lightspeeds and a small standby battery that yields 3 hours of operation in the ev ent of power failure. I also sent my flywheel in to Klaus at Lightspeed and he installe d the trip magnets on his master jig for perfect placement. Good Luck Dick Martin RV8 N233m the fast one On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 11:06 AM, Roger Smart wrote: > Completing the firewall forward on a RV-8A O-360 4 cyl. I have one mag > and one Lightspeed Plasma III. I am locating the Ignition Module would l ike > some feedback on experiences from others. My concern is ignition noise i n > radios and interference with sensor wires. Mounting on the cold side of the > firewall is difficult due to space unless I mount the module right behind > the panel causing potential interference. Has anyone experienced noise > or sensor interference problems and what did you do to solve them? Has > anyone mounted the module on the hot side of the firewall? How did you > protect against heat and moisture? Any problems with a hot side > installation? > > > Also the instructions has the power go straight from the battery or batte ry > side of the master relay to a =93pull-able=94 circuit breaker and allows the > unit to be turned on and off with a standard mag p-lead type connection. > > > =93all Plasma II Plus and Plasma III CDI systems can be operated with a > standard aircraft key switch. A "P"-Lead (wired to the output connector) > is provided and should be connected to the key switch in the same way as the > magneto "P"-Lead. There is no current drain on your battery when power i s > supplied via the input connector and the key switch is in the off positio n. > A pull-able circuit breaker should still be installed in the positive pow er > wire.=94 > > > Even though it states there is no power draw you still have a unprotected > wire from the battery to the panel breaker that is hot 24/7 and unless yo u > pull the breaker, the wire is hot all the way to the module even when > parked. This just does not seem reasonable. I would like to know what > others have done. > > Thanks, Roger Smart > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: russell parr <rrparr12(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: hello J
Date: Apr 19, 2010
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Date: Apr 19, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
Dear Listers, Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that goes along under the left hand canopy rail. Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source? I'm assuming this will meet the requirement? Thanks! PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration this weekend. Cool? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2010
From: Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
Matt, cut the tubing, insert a 'T' with a short stub of tubing. Put a plug in the tube of a type that you can pull out easily if needed. Simple, light, and inexpensive. Linn Matt Dralle wrote: > Dear Listers, > > Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that goes along under the left hand canopy rail. > > Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source? > > I'm assuming this will meet the requirement? > > Thanks! > > PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration this weekend. Cool? > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Instrumentation Checkout - HDTV Video
Dear Listers, Last week I ran the IO-390 on the RV-8 for about 12 minutes and went though and checked all of the various systems and sensors. I talked though the each of the things as I was checking them in an HD video I edited of the session. Thought some might find it interesting... http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA . Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
At 03:53 PM 4/19/2010 Monday, you wrote: > >Matt, cut the tubing, insert a 'T' with a short stub of tubing. Put a plug in the tube of a type that you can pull out easily if needed. >Simple, light, and inexpensive. >Linn >Matt Dralle wrote: >>Dear Listers, >> >>Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that goes along under the left hand canopy rail. >> >>Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source? >> >>I'm assuming this will meet the requirement? >> >>Thanks! What a great idea, Linn! Thanks. Here's what I did tonight including a couple of pictures... I added a small "T" Nylon fitting in the 1/4" tube for static air just in front of the instrument panel under the left cockpit rail. I cut a short piece of 1/4" tubing and filled it with black RTV and then put a piece of heat shrink tubing over it to form a handle. The whole thing fits nicely under the cockpit rail and from the pilot's position is just barely visible, yet can be accessed easy. In the event that icing conditions occur, the fitting can be unscrewed and the plug removed for cabin venting. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
From: Larry Mac Donald <lm4(at)juno.com>
Date: Apr 20, 2010
Matt, The people who do pneumatics installations use a certain size tubing and with it comes plastic fittings that allow you to push the tubing into the fitting. When you do it ,the fitting, snaps into place and locks the two together. They also make t's and even a panel mount pneumatic toggle switch. HTH Larry On Apr 19, 2010, at 4:50 PM, Matt Dralle wrote: > > Dear Listers, > > Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that goes along under the left hand canopy rail. > > Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source? > > I'm assuming this will meet the requirement? > > Thanks! > > PS - Attached are a couple of pictures from Taxi-testing and Magnetometer calibration this weekend. Cool? > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight > <2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (1).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (2).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (6).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (8).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (11).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (15).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (24).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (25).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (26).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (27).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (33).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (36).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (37).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (39).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (40).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (48).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (52).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (58).jpg><2010.04.17 - RV-8 - Taxi Testing (60).jpg> ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 2000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bcda8823f091f1537st02duc ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
Date: Apr 20, 2010
Matt: Checkout the SafeAir alternate static port. Toward the bottom of this page. http://www.safeair1.com/PS_1.htm You should be able to make something like it if you do not wish to purchase theirs. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C346+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > On Apr 19=2C 2010=2C at 4:50 PM=2C Matt Dralle wrote: ---snip --- Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8=2C it looks l ike the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seem s like it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem stati c air tube that goes along under the left hand canopy rail. Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source? --- snip --- Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inb ox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 20, 2010
Subject: Re: Check Valve For Static System Cabin Venting...
Matt- Checkout SMC's product offerings. They have an office in San Jose. _http://www.smcusa.com/sections/products/fittings_tubings.asp_ (http://www.smcusa.com/sections/products/fittings_tubings.asp) -GV In a message dated 4/19/2010 8:03:53 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dralle(at)matronics.com writes: At 03:53 PM 4/19/2010 Monday, you wrote: > >Matt, cut the tubing, insert a 'T' with a short stub of tubing. Put a plug in the tube of a type that you can pull out easily if needed. >Simple, light, and inexpensive. >Linn >Matt Dralle wrote: >>Dear Listers, >> >>Looking at the requirements for IFR certification of the RV-8, it looks like the only thing I don't have is an "alternate static source". This seems like it would be as simple as adding a "T" valve in the 1/4 neoprem static air tube that goes along under the left hand canopy rail. >> >>Does anyone have any suggestions on something I could just cut the tube and stick in line with a little thumb screw to switch between the fuselage or cabin source? >> >>I'm assuming this will meet the requirement? >> >>Thanks! What a great idea, Linn! Thanks. Here's what I did tonight including a couple of pictures... I added a small "T" Nylon fitting in the 1/4" tube for static air just in front of the instrument panel under the left cockpit rail. I cut a short piece of 1/4" tubing and filled it with black RTV and then put a piece of heat shrink tubing over it to form a handle. The whole thing fits nicely under the cockpit rail and from the pilot's position is just barely visible, yet can be accessed easy. In the event that icing conditions occur, the fitting can be unscrewed and the plug removed for cabin venting. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR?
Dear Listers, I'm working with the local FSDO this week and had my airframe inspection on Monday will get my sign-off this Friday if all goes well. Looking over the requirements for IFR, it appears that I've got everything I need as far as equipment is concerned. I have a Garmin SL-30 for Com/Nav and a Garmin GTX-327 for Mode C transponder. All of the other equipment and functionality is provided by the GRT Horizon HX sytems including the encoder, attitude, airspeed, altitude, compass, etc, etc. I do not have any steam gauges or other flight instruments other than what is provided by GRT through an HX installation. My question is can my RV-8 be approved for IFR flight with this compliment of GRT HX specific instrumentation? Or, would I need to have a TSO'd encoder and/or other TSO'd pieces such as rate-of-turn, slip, sensitive altimeter, artificial horizon, direction gyro, etc? Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR?
Date: Apr 21, 2010
The FAA does not approve it=2C you do. Your Operating Limitations should have this Operating Limitation listed "Af ter completion of phase I flight testing=2C unless appropriately equipped for night and/or instrument flight in accordance with =A7 91.205=2C this ai rcraft is to be operated under VFR=2C day only." Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C346+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Tue=2C 20 Apr 2010 18:48:01 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv10-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list@matronic s.com=3B rv7-list(at)matronics.com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: TSO'd Instrumentation For IFR? > > > > Dear Listers=2C > > I'm working with the local FSDO this week and had my airframe inspection on Monday will get my sign-off this Friday if all goes well. Looking over the requirements for IFR=2C it appears that I've got everything I need as f ar as equipment is concerned. I have a Garmin SL-30 for Com/Nav and a Garm in GTX-327 for Mode C transponder. All of the other equipment and function ality is provided by the GRT Horizon HX sytems including the encoder=2C att itude=2C airspeed=2C altitude=2C compass=2C etc=2C etc. I do not have any steam gauges or other flight instruments other than what is provided by GRT through an HX installation. > > My question is can my RV-8 be approved for IFR flight with this complimen t of GRT HX specific instrumentation? Or=2C would I need to have a TSO'd e ncoder and/or other TSO'd pieces such as rate-of-turn=2C slip=2C sensitive altimeter=2C artificial horizon=2C direction gyro=2C etc? > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: Final Bits/Inspection/Test Flight > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with H otmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid= PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Date: Apr 21, 2010
Subject: CT A-740 Cables
Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing i ssues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is install ation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and the pa rking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much long er that required. Seems like I have two options: 1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length 2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter that the cable I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damaging the actual cable. Any ideas? Paul Valovich N192NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)johndeere.com>
Date: Apr 21, 2010
Subject: CT A-740 Cables
I cut mine. I grabbed the knob and pulled the center wire completely out. Then cut the outer material to length with a Dremel and a cut off wheel. Put the center wire back in and eventually trim it as required. Truth be t old, I actually cut it twice. Once a little long just to be sure it fit, t hen to final length. If you are uncomfortable, you could start by cutting just an inch or so off for practice, and then verify everything is alright before you attempt a c ut to a more precise length. - Paul From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 09:21 Subject: RV-List: CT A-740 Cables Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing i ssues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is install ation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and the pa rking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much long er that required. Seems like I have two options: 1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length 2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter that the cable I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damaging the actual cable. Any ideas? Paul Valovich N192NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Hanaway" <tomhanaway(at)comcast.net>
Subject: CT A-740 Cables
Date: Apr 21, 2010
Paul, Easy enough. It was a duh!!! moment for me when somebody showed me. Measure to make sure you have correct inner cable length. Pull on control knob to bring inner cable back past point in sheath that you want to cut. I just used wire snips but others prefer dremel or min-cutoff wheel. If not sure, cut a little longer than you think you need. You can always trim a little more using same procedure. 4 cables done. All work fine. Tom Hanaway _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Valovich, Paul Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 10:21 AM Subject: RV-List: CT A-740 Cables Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing issues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is installation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and the parking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much longer that required. Seems like I have two options: 1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length 2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter that the cable I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damaging the actual cable. Any ideas? Paul Valovich N192NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: CT A-740 Cables
Date: Apr 21, 2010
Use an abrasive cutoff wheel......... a Dremel type motor with a small whee l should do it or you can use an air powered motor with a larger wheel. Dale Ensing ----- Original Message ----- From: Valovich, Paul To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 10:21 AM Subject: RV-List: CT A-740 Cables Progress on my -8A is slow but steady - to the point where I'm addressing issues that were either postponed or lower priority. One of those is insta llation of CT A-740 control cables to operate the cabin heat valve and the parking brake valve. I purchased two cables from Vans, but both are much lo nger that required. Seems like I have two options::p> 1. Rig a loop to eliminate the extra length 2. Cut the cable to length - with the "spring" covering shorter tha t the cable I prefer (2) but am unsure exactly of the best way to cut without damagin g the actual cable. Any ideas? Paul Valovich N192NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6
Date: Apr 21, 2010
From: pittss1(at)aol.com
if the eng mount is modified the c1c sump will fit. its a secet weapon, sl ightly tuned, lighter weight and fwd mounted injector. free horsepower! i did this on a g202 - 200 hp with straight valve cylinders (to save weigh t) airflo injection ... 32" map on t/o ... sea level on a cool day. (monte barrett eng) mike -----Original Message----- From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wed, Apr 7, 2010 12:48 pm Subject: RV-List: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6 Greg, Thanks for the nugget! This confirms what Bart had said regarding interfe rence ith the engine mount. It appears that I will have an extra 'C' sump as I will e purchasing the 'A' sump and pipes. One question remains. Charlie posted a link to IDGs Picasa web album that shows RV-8 engine installation with an IO-360 parallel valve with a 'C' sump achined to fit the fuel servo to the front. It appears there is clearance etween the rear of the sump and the engine mount. http://picasaweb.google.com/intelligentdesigngroup/FirewallForward#5311619 666248489490 Still head scratching... chris stone RV8 Oregon ----Original Message----- From: Greg <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> Sent: Apr 7, 2010 12:47 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 I used a C model sump on my 1st RV-6. I had the front boss milled and tapp ed for studs to mount an Airflow Performance servo. That was on a parallel valve O-360 so I had to adjust the intake tubes and provide spacers to get them to fit. That shouldn't be needed on an angle valve engine. The down side for my -6 was the sump sits farther aft than the A model sump and I had to modify my engine mount to get clearance. I elected to go with an A sump on my rebuild which also has tubes made for the parallel valve engine. I have the C model sump available if you or anyone else is interested. It has been modified to add the oil bosses (I've forgotten if it was 1 or 2) for a Christen inverted system. The sump is magnesium as are the added bosses. Rear has a cover plate and the front is setup for the AFP servo. Contact me off list if interested. Regards, Greg Young > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:32 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > > Hello listers... > > Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) > to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to > accept the mounting of the fuel controller to the front of the sump. > > Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by > switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune > the system. > > Chris Stone > RV-8 > Oregon > > -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The RV-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Instrumentation Checkout Video (HDTV)...
Dear Listers, I wanted to check out the operation of all the various systems on the RV-8 now that the engine is running. For example, comparing the fuel flow and fuel pressure readings between the FuelChec DX and the GRT EFIS. I also wanted to run the engine up a little and make sure the CHT and EGT's were coming into a normal range and the all of the probes were working. Also, I wanted to see the oil pressure and temps in normal ranges after a bit of running. Finally, I wanted to check the engine RPM with the new TruTach II hand held optic tachometer. On April 13 2010 I hopped in the pilot's seat and fired up the IO-390 and went though some checks. I videoed the procedure and used the intercom to call out the various readings I was observing. If you select the 1080p version of the YouTube video, you can actually read most of the values right off the GRT EFIS displays! Towards the end of the video some music starts to play. This is coming from the Kenwood via the MP3 files on the 64GB thumb drive plugged into the panel via the PS3000 Intercom and is exactly what I'm hearing in the headphones. YouTube Video (Select higher resolutions 480p/760p/1080p for clearer picture): http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA PS - Video was edited with Adobe Premiere CS4 on a Windows Vista 64 system. Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2010
From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6
I just finished assembling my C1C6 with a forward facing fuel servo. All looks good. No interference with the engine mount on an RV-8. I made a 3/4 thick adapter plate to adapt the fuel servo to the sump. All ready to mount on airframe. Thanks to all who provided expertise... chris stone RV-8 Oregon if the eng mount is modified the c1c sump will fit. its a secet weapon, slightly tuned, lighter weight and fwd mounted injector. free horsepower! i did this on a g202 - 200 hp with straight valve cylinders (to save weight) airflo injection ... 32" map on t/o ... sea level on a cool day. (monte barrett eng) mike -----Original Message----- From: Chris Stone <rv8iator(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wed, Apr 7, 2010 12:48 pm Subject: RV-List: Sump fit IO360C1C6 to A1B6 Greg, Thanks for the nugget! This confirms what Bart had said regarding interference with the engine mount. It appears that I will have an extra 'C' sump as I will be purchasing the 'A' sump and pipes. One question remains. Charlie posted a link to IDGs Picasa web album that shows a RV-8 engine installation with an IO-360 parallel valve with a 'C' sump machined to fit the fuel servo to the front. It appears there is clearance between the rear of the sump and the engine mount. http://picasaweb.google.com/intelligentdesigngroup/FirewallForward#5311619666248489490 Still head scratching... chris stone RV8 Oregon -----Original Message----- >From: Greg <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> >Sent: Apr 7, 2010 12:47 PM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 > > >I used a C model sump on my 1st RV-6. I had the front boss milled and tapped >for studs to mount an Airflow Performance servo. That was on a parallel >valve O-360 so I had to adjust the intake tubes and provide spacers to get >them to fit. That shouldn't be needed on an angle valve engine. The down >side for my -6 was the sump sits farther aft than the A model sump and I had >to modify my engine mount to get clearance. I elected to go with an A sump >on my rebuild which also has tubes made for the parallel valve engine. > >I have the C model sump available if you or anyone else is interested. It >has been modified to add the oil bosses (I've forgotten if it was 1 or 2) >for a Christen inverted system. The sump is magnesium as are the added >bosses. Rear has a cover plate and the front is setup for the AFP servo. >Contact me off list if interested. > >Regards, >Greg Young > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Stone >> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 8:32 AM >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: IO360C1C6 to A1B6 >> >> >> Hello listers... >> >> Has anyone converted a Lyc IO360-C1C6 (rear fuel controller) >> to a A1B6 front fuel controller by machining the sump boss to >> accept the mounting of the fuel controller to the front of the sump. >> >> Since this is a tuned induction system I am concerned that by >> switching the inlet to the front of the sump it will detune >> the system. >> >> Chris Stone >> RV-8 >> Oregon >> >> > > =================================== et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List =================================== tp://forums.matronics.com =================================== _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution =================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Fogarty, Lakes & Leisure Realty, Inc." <jfogarty(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Instrumentation Checkout Video (HDTV)...
Date: Apr 22, 2010
Matt, That was great, thanks for sharing. I learn a lot just by watching the video. You do a great job. Thanks. Jim RV9a Building ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> ; Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 9:44 PM Subject: RV-List: Instrumentation Checkout Video (HDTV)... > > Dear Listers, > > I wanted to check out the operation of all the various systems on the RV-8 > now that the engine is running. For example, comparing the fuel flow and > fuel pressure readings between the FuelChec DX and the GRT EFIS. I also > wanted to run the engine up a little and make sure the CHT and EGT's were > coming into a normal range and the all of the probes were working. Also, > I wanted to see the oil pressure and temps in normal ranges after a bit of > running. Finally, I wanted to check the engine RPM with the new TruTach > II hand held optic tachometer. > > On April 13 2010 I hopped in the pilot's seat and fired up the IO-390 and > went though some checks. I videoed the procedure and used the intercom to > call out the various readings I was observing. If you select the 1080p > version of the YouTube video, you can actually read most of the values > right off the GRT EFIS displays! Towards the end of the video some music > starts to play. This is coming from the Kenwood via the MP3 files on the > 64GB thumb drive plugged into the panel via the PS3000 Intercom and is > exactly what I'm hearing in the headphones. > > YouTube Video (Select higher resolutions 480p/760p/1080p for clearer > picture): > > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8?v=-byMWhyTwjA > > PS - Video was edited with Adobe Premiere CS4 on a Windows Vista 64 > system. > > > Matt Dralle > RV-8 #82880 N998RV > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2010
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: N998RV Signed Off!
HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this afternoon, Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the obligatory entry was made in the aircraft's logbook. A special Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends from Livermore to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore. Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike Seager ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after that, its time to test fly! YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this close! How exciting! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell(at)telus.net>
Subject: N998RV Signed Off!
Date: Apr 22, 2010
I'm sure that I'm not alone in yelling !! CONGRATULATIONS!! Great flights and greased landings, Jim in Kelowna HOBBS Meter: 2452 Construction Hours Its official! RV-8 N998RV was officially signed off by the FAA this Airworthiness Certificate and Repairman Certificate and the obligatory entry was made in the aircraft's logbook. A special Phase 1 test-flight area was agreed upon and extends from Livermore to Stockton to Merced to Lost Banos and back to Livermore. Next week I go up to Oregon to get my Transition Training from Mike Seager ( http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/trainfly.htm ) and after that, its time to test fly! YAHOO!!! I can't believe its signed off and the test flight is this close! How exciting! Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: Final Bits / Inspection / Test Flight ====== Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.14830) http://www.pctools.com/ ======


March 10, 2010 - April 22, 2010

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