RV-Archive.digest.vol-un
July 01, 2010 - July 26, 2010
dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
1) I could put a short saw horse under the wing tie down and then put a
hydraulic jack on it and lift the side of the airplane up by this point. If
I just gently lift the plane by hand at this point, it seems like that's an
awful lot of weight to be lifting that far out on the wing. Can the spars
really handle this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Point |
Hey Matt,
I use two entirely different methods to jack up my RV-8 and both systems wo
rk very well. The first method uses a commonly available bottle jack from H
arbor Freight. Many builders before me have made their own version of a win
g jack based upon the HF bottle jack and my interpretation-is no exceptio
n. Investing-just a few hours work using off the shelf parts, the Harbor
Freight bottle jack be quickly transformed into a-very useful wing jack.
http://tinyurl.com/7eb5ed
The second method I use is the "Handy Jack."- Using leverage, it too-is
a quick and very easy way to lift an RV8-wheel clear of the floor.
-
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp//html/products_pics.html#RVJACK
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R
RV-8 N308R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lubing The Tail Wheel Fork Bearing... |
Matt,
I suggest you try/use Molykote G-n paste. It is a molybdenum disulfide paste
(much higher moly content than a moly containing grease) that is especially
good for sliding friction and the minimal back and forth movement of the
tail wheel gear. It will stay in place better and reduces the "stick -
slip" you get when using a grease when there is minimal movement of the
shaft in the bushing.
Apply a good film to the bearing, shaft and locking pin with your fingers or
by brush after cleaning the parts.
BTW I use G-n paste on the friction washers and bushing on the front wheel
of my 6A. It does a much better job of allowing a smooth "brake out" of the
front wheel fork when steering yet maintains the necessary brake out force
important to a free swiveling front wheel.
Link to G-n paste
http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/products/details.aspx?prod=01889877&type=PROD
There is also a link on this page to find a distributor in your area. It is
available in an 80 gram tube which should be enough for several applications
over the years.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 11:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lubing The Tail Wheel Fork Bearing...
>
>
> How the heck do you lube the bronze bearing on the tailwheel fork short of
> taking the giant nut off. I lubed it up good during initial assembly,
> then at about 40 hours, it started to kind of stick, so I dissembled and
> lubed it again. Now at 70 its doing it again. I foolishly put a Zerk
> fitting in the body of the thing, thinking that next time I could just
> shoot some lube in there. Great idea except that it doesn't work for such
> a tight fit.
>
> Is there some "super lube" you can get that will last forever? I've used
> both graphite wheel bearing grease and Aeroshell #6 grease.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Point |
Rick,
Did you make any kind of stabilizing frame for the bottle jack or use them
as purchased? Would be interested in pictures or description if you made
stabilizer.
I too have a set of the HF bottle jacks. A "pocket" was created on the top
of the shaft to fit the plastic screw in buttons in the tie down fixtures
( from Van's) Did this with a large counter sink tool. This makes a secure
point at the wing. But, I am always a little concerned about the jack
tipping while jacking or if I bump the airplane while on the jacks - even
with the other wheel chocked.
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Jacking Point
Hey Matt,
I use two entirely different methods to jack up my RV-8 and both systems
work very well. The first method uses a commonly available bottle jack from
Harbor Freight. Many builders before me have made their own version of a
wing jack based upon the HF bottle jack and my interpretation is no
exception. Investing just a few hours work using off the shelf parts, the
Harbor Freight bottle jack be quickly transformed into a very useful wing
jack.
http://tinyurl.com/7eb5ed
The second method I use is the "Handy Jack." Using leverage, it too is a
quick and very easy way to lift an RV8 wheel clear of the floor.
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp//html/products_pics.html#RVJACK
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R
RV-8 N308R
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Point |
| From: | "Rick Galati" <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
Dale Ensing wrote:
> Rick,
> Did you make any kind of stabilizing frame for the bottle jack or use them
> as purchased? Would be interested in pictures or description if you made
> stabilizer.
Dale,
I made up the jack in about 4 hours using a 2'X2'X3/4" precut piece of plywood
as its base, two 3-1/2" band clamps and one 10' stick of 1/2" electrical conduit
all purchased from Home Depot. In practice I find the jack to be very stable.
Perhaps it helps that the ball joint I fashioned from a spare tie-down ring
is allowed a small degree of movement within its socket on the jack itself and
that allows the ball to find its own center under load while lifting the wing.
Rick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303245#303245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob <Deerlake(at)bresnan.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Point |
I didn't see it mentioned in this thread. Avery makes this:
http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx and it's what I used
when changing tires on my RV. After seeing what happens to an airplane
wing when it falls off the jack (no, not me. It was a Bonanza), I
thought this method made a lot of sense and it worked very well.
Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Point |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 7:41 AM, Bob wrote:
>
> I didn't see it mentioned in this thread. Avery makes this:
> http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx and it's what I used
> when changing tires on my RV. After seeing what happens to an airplane wing
> when it falls off the jack (no, not me. It was a Bonanza), I thought this
> method made a lot of sense and it worked very well.
>
> Bob Skinner
>
>
But then how do you get the wheel off?
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Point |
| From: | Kevin Horton <khorton01(at)rogers.com> |
On 2010-07-01, at 10:41 , Bob wrote:
>
> I didn't see it mentioned in this thread. Avery makes this: http://www.averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx and it's what I used when changing tires on my RV. After seeing what happens to an airplane wing when it falls off the jack (no, not me. It was a Bonanza), I thought this method made a lot of sense and it worked very well.
That won't work in Matt's RV-8, as it doesn't have hollow axles.
--
Kevin Horton
RV-8
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
SNIP >>>>>>>How the heck do you lube the bronze bearing on the tailwheel fork short
of taking the giant nut off. I lubed it up good during initial assembly,
then at about 40 hours, it started to kind of stick, so I dissembled and lubed
it again.
Now at 70 its doing it again. I foolishly put a Zerk fitting in the body of the
thing, thinking that next time I could just shoot some lube in there. Great
idea except that it doesn't work for such a tight fit.
Is there some "super lube" you can get that will last forever? I've used both
graphite wheel bearing grease and Aeroshell #6 grease.
Thanks!
Matt<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=66&zenid=7p0ddvhbkde4177qjrc2gtdru1
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Flyboy Accessories
3963 Caborn Road
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
1-888-8FLYBOY
1-888-835-9269
www.flyboyaccessories.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cknauf(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Airventure tickets |
We decided not to attend OSH this year, but not before buying our online ti
ckets. =C2- I have two daily member and spouse tickets that are nonrefund
able but completely transferrable. =C2- I have $92 into them but would pa
rt with them for $50.=C2- Reply to cknauf(at)comcast.net .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Jacking Point |
For my RV8=2C I have the handy jack from avery. Works great and nothing is
in the way when taking the wheel off. http://www.averytools.com/p-913-the
-handy-jack-eldorado-aviation.aspx
Paul Rice
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Jacking Point
> From: khorton01(at)rogers.com
> Date: Thu=2C 1 Jul 2010 12:35:44 -0400
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> On 2010-07-01=2C at 10:41 =2C Bob wrote:
>
> >
> > I didn't see it mentioned in this thread. Avery makes this: http://www.
averytools.com/p-181-rv-jack-stand.aspx and it's what I used when changing
tires on my RV. After seeing what happens to an airplane wing when it falls
off the jack (no=2C not me. It was a Bonanza)=2C I thought this method mad
e a lot of sense and it worked very well.
>
>
> That won't work in Matt's RV-8=2C as it doesn't have hollow axles.
> --
> Kevin Horton
> RV-8
> Ottawa=2C Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cknauf(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Airventure tickets - SOLD |
Tickets are sold.=C2- Thanks for your interest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier(at)usi.edu> |
| Subject: | tailwheel lube and maintenance |
SNIP>>>>>>A little wear and the zerk fitting will do just fine. Patience,
grasshopper(s).
Linn<<<<<<| Date: | Jul 02, 2010 |
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailwheel lube and maintenance |
No apologies necessary Vince. I was only addressing the greasing of the
shaft. I've found that the locking mechanism works better with graphite
instead of grease. As you said, keep it clean and lubed (whatever
method you use) and it'll work perfectly.
Linn
Frazier, Vincent A wrote:
>
> SNIP>>>>>>A little wear and the zerk fitting will do just fine. Patience,
> grasshopper(s).
> Linn<<<<<<
> I hate to argue online, but Linn is incorrect on this one. Regardless of how
furiously you pump grease into that zerk it will NEVER properly lube the locking
pin, nor will it effectively remove the dirt and grit that has accumulated
in the mechanism. Since the rotation of the shaft is actually quite minimal
and the locking pin function is what makes this system tick, it behooves the users
to keep the pin area properly maintained, cleaned, and lubed. Do that and
you'll minimize any steering problems.
>
> My apologies to Linn for disagreeing.
>
> Vince Frazier
> Flyboy Accessories
> 3963 Caborn Road
> Mount Vernon, IN 47620
> 812-464-1839
> 1-888-8FLYBOY
> 1-888-835-9269
> www.flyboyaccessories.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Highest Quality...? |
Well, if I'd of been paying attention, I could have rotated them and easily gotten
another 70 from them probably. But, I just got the new Goodyear Flight Custom
III's installed last night and then went out and shot some landings. WHAT
A DIFFERENCE! The GY's are 10 times the quality of the stock one's. The sidewalls
are definately far more rigid and the tread is thicker. The rubber seems
a lot "harder" too.
I noticed that the old ones had a "flat spot" when I was removing them. I just
thought "rough" was the way the RV's were suppose to ride. Now the plane really
rolls smoothly. It also seems to track down the runway much better. Wheel
landings are a thing of beauty, and I've almost got that three-point licked.
I was happy to note that my brakes barely look used! Since the brake incident
and subsequent replacement of the wheels and brakes, I have been ever vigilant
about staying off the brakes. I try to taxi like I don't have brakes. Guess
its paying off!
Yeah, I've been flying a LOT! I just can't seem to not head out to the hanger
after work and fly around. My Chevron av-gas bill was $2700 last month! I just
can't believe how nice the RV-8 is to fly. What a joy.
For those that are still slaving away, *keep at it*! It is worth all of the time
you invest in it...
Best,
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor...
At 02:42 PM 6/28/2010 Monday, you wrote:
>Matt,
>The Van's tires are worn out after only 70 hours? And how in the world did you
put 70 hours on it already? You have been doing some serious flying! I've
got 84 on my originals and I've still got another 20-30 hours left in them. But,
they are not high quality tires.
>I'm ready to order new tires and tubes so I've talked to a number of other RV
owners asking their advice. I've always liked Michelin, but the RV guys near
me all recommend using the Goodyear Flight Custom III. They tell me the sidewalls
are much stiffer and thread is deeper and overall the tire is longer lasting.
Also, many local guys recommended the Michelin Airstop tubes. They tell
me they have no air leaks with the Airstop tubes. With my original tubes, I
have to air up the tires every 6 weeks. The Goodyears have kevlar in the sidewalls
which apparently stiffens the sidewall.
>So, I'm ordering a set of GY tires and Michelin tubes.
>FYI.
>Stan Sutterfield
><http://www.rv-8a.net>www.rv-8a.net
>Its almost time for a new set of tires on the 'ol RV-8. What are the very best
>tires for the RV wheels? I'd like something that will last a little longer than
>70 hours.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Update On RV-8 Princeton Fuel Probe Installation... |
At 05:40 PM 6/28/2010 Monday, you wrote:
>
>On 06/21/2010 12:00 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>>All that
>>matters at this point is that they are both working and are exceptionally accurate
in
>>the 15-0 gallon range which is where it counts.
>
>...and you just *might* owe Princeton an apology for what I *seem* to remember
as some pretty heavy bad-mouthing in your last few posts. But w/o actually going
back into the archives, I may be wrong...
>
>Regards, J.
>
>Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jabiru 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb
>restoring the Johnston Special
>http://cleco.ca
I might have been a little rough on Princeton initially, but considering how annoyed
I was at that prospect of having to replace them, I think I held back pretty
well: :-)
Reference:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=69954 and
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=69999 and
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=71281
Just having to remove them to adjust the probe tip so that it wasn't touching the
bottom of the tank was a major ordeal. Since in a QB you can see into the
tank when installing them, they should be pre-bent to make sure they don't touch
or have an insulative piece of plastic on the tip.
And why the first three calibrations didn't take is completely baffling. I almost
didn't try to calibrate again for the forth time, but I was just so demoralized
at having to remove them and try to fit floats in, that I just gave the
calibration one more try. Whew, glad I did.
Anyway, I wanted to clear the air and that's why I posted my extended pirep on
the successful calibration finally. I sent the same report to Princeton, GRT,
and the GRT-EFIS forum as well.
I've got about 20 hours on them now since the successful calibration. They remain
about as accurate as I reported. They still give kind of wonky readings when
the tanks are full sometimes. The lower the fuel level, the more accurate
they seem to be. That being said, based on comparisons with the FuelChec DX
flow meter, I wouldn't trust the level probes more than about +- 1.5 gallons or
so (within 3 gallons of actual). But, that's good enough I suppose. I still
rely on the flow meter's fuel "remanding" mostly as it has proved to be reliable
to within .5 gallons or better.
BTW, the FuelChec DX has a really cool feature called the "Switch Tanks" warning.
You set it to the amount of fuel burn you want to keep your tank levels balanced.
For example, I have mine sent to 3 gallons. Every three gallons of fuel
burn, the FuelChec flashes a warning indicating its time to switch tanks.
I've found this really keeps the fuel balanced across the tanks. Its also an
excellent reminder every 20 minutes or so to check the fuel levels.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "j. davis" <jd(at)lawsonimaging.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Update On RV-8 Princeton Fuel Probe Installation... |
On 07/03/2010 12:59 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> I might have been a little rough on Princeton initially, but considering how
annoyed I
> was at that prospect of having to replace them, I think I held back pretty well:
:-)
Hey, Matt...
Glad it all worked out for you!
I've been extremely happy with Princeton senders in two home-builts now, was kind
of
scratching my head at your (and a couple of other's) posts expressing unhappiness
with them.
And believe me, I totally understand your ummm... disappointment at the prospect
of
replacing them! Again, glad all's well.
--
Regards, J.
Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jabiru 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb
restoring the Johnston Special
http://cleco.ca
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| J. Davis, M.Sc. | (computer science) |
| *NIX consulting, SysAdmin | email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+
I made wine out of raisins so I wouldn't have to wait for
it to age.
--- Steven Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
N811WT got its airworthiness certificate today. It only took 12 years.
The DAR was actually pretty throrough. He made me start up the engine and
run it for 5 minutes so he could satisfy himself that the engine started
easily and the engine instruments work. Surprised me. Anyway, I'm legal.
Now I have to call the test pilot and get a few hours of dual and I'm good
to go. Woo Hoo!
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete & Delee <4680(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Jeppesen Database Updates |
Has anyone found a current Jeppesen Database Update for a Lowrance 2000C?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: airworthiness |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Congrats, Tom.
Just rolled past 777 hours on the tach here...
Bill Boyd
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 7:17 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
> N811WT got its airworthiness certificate today. It only took 12 years.
>
> The DAR was actually pretty throrough. He made me start up the engine and
> run it for 5 minutes so he could satisfy himself that the engine started
> easily and the engine instruments work. Surprised me. Anyway, I'm legal.
> Now I have to call the test pilot and get a few hours of dual and I'm good
> to go. Woo Hoo!
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)johndeere.com> |
Woo Hoo indeed! CONGRATULATIONS TOM! Welcome to the club. You're going to love
it!
Paul A. Fisher
RV-7A N18PF - ~100 hours in 11 months.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 18:17
Subject: RV-List: airworthiness
N811WT got its airworthiness certificate today. It only took 12 years.
The DAR was actually pretty throrough. He made me start up the engine and run
it for 5 minutes so he could satisfy himself that the engine started easily and
the engine instruments work. Surprised me. Anyway, I'm legal.
Now I have to call the test pilot and get a few hours of dual and I'm good to go.
Woo Hoo!
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Jeppesen Database Updates |
| From: | Chris Hand <chris_hand(at)comcast.net> |
I updated mine (2000C) a few months ago off the lei-extras web site. Was $35 for
the one time update and the instructions are on the web site.
Chris
On Jul 3, 2010, at 5:44 PM, Pete & Delee <4680(at)att.net> wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a current Jeppesen Database Update for a Lowrance 2000C?
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airworthiness |
Tom, congratulations.
It took me a while, too.
On Jul 3, 2010, at 5:17 , thomas sargent wrote:
> N811WT got its airworthiness certificate today. It only took 12
> years.
>
> The DAR was actually pretty throrough. He made me start up the
> engine and run it for 5 minutes so he could satisfy himself that the
> engine started easily and the engine instruments work. Surprised
> me. Anyway, I'm legal. Now I have to call the test pilot and get a
> few hours of dual and I'm good to go. Woo Hoo!
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop Governor Cable Bracket |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
Can anyone tell me if the Van's bracket VA-153-PC will fit on a PCU5000X governor?
The info on the Van's Web Store site says it will fit an MT or a Hartzell
governor. I have acquired an old bracket of unknown heritage from a neighbor and
the three screw holes are just a bit off from the holes on my PCU governor.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303696#303696
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
I'm happy to report that my second wheel pant installation on the RV-8 is coming
out very nice. With the Grove gear (I guess), I'm finding that I have to add
a large cutout to clear the rear brake caliper. I didn't do this on the first
set and found that it put undue stress on the whole pant assembly. Now I just
have to figure out how to make a "blister" to cover it. Anyone know of a
premade fiberglass blister about 2.25" wide that I could just epoxy to the pant?
Anyway, here's my real question. Has anyone used these little doors on the sides
of their RV wheelpants to access the valve stem for checking the pressure?
Drilling a 1" hole sounds like just the right amount of work to me at this point...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/accessdoors.php
.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PaulR" <prose(at)panhandle.rr.com> |
I've been using Kitlog so my friends and family could follow my very slow build.
I've recently purchased a new computer and reloaded the software and the backup
file from my old computer to the new one. The problem is, I can't seem to
update the online version. It says that it connects, but after hours, never
finishes. New computer is running Windows 7 Home Premium if that makes any difference.
I've emailed support but it's a holiday and I thought maybe someone
here had some experience. I'm not much of an IT guy so I need a little help.
Thanks
--------
Paul Rose
N417PR (res)
RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303739#303739
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv6n(at)optonline.net |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
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in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I don't know the answer, but I'm sure Matt Dralle, who owns KitLog and
so generously provides this list, and participates here, either knows
precisely what you need, or knows who on his staff does.
On 7/4/2010 5:05 PM, PaulR wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "PaulR"
>
> I've been using Kitlog so my friends and family could follow my very slow build.
I've recently purchased a new computer and reloaded the software and the
backup file from my old computer to the new one. The problem is, I can't seem
to update the online version. It says that it connects, but after hours, never
finishes. New computer is running Windows 7 Home Premium if that makes any
difference. I've emailed support but it's a holiday and I thought maybe someone
here had some experience. I'm not much of an IT guy so I need a little help.
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Paul Rose
> N417PR (res)
> RV-9A
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303739#303739
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jsflyrv(at)verizon.net> |
Have you tried running in windows xp compatibility mode?
PaulR wrote:
>
> I've been using Kitlog so my friends and family could follow my very slow build.
I've recently purchased a new computer and reloaded the software and the
backup file from my old computer to the new one. The problem is, I can't seem
to update the online version. It says that it connects, but after hours, never
finishes. New computer is running Windows 7 Home Premium if that makes any
difference. I've emailed support but it's a holiday and I thought maybe someone
here had some experience. I'm not much of an IT guy so I need a little help.
>
> Thanks
>
> --------
> Paul Rose
> N417PR (res)
> RV-9A
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303739#303739
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Matt,
I bought a set. Threw them in the trash. They are cheep flimsy pieces of
crap that do not fully close nor ever close the same way. Always out of
alignment. Plastic or metel plugs work much better and are very cheep.
:owes of hpme depot XA department has them.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 4:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
I'm happy to report that my second wheel pant installation on the RV-8 is
coming out very nice. With the Grove gear (I guess), I'm finding that I
have to add a large cutout to clear the rear brake caliper. I didn't do
this on the first set and found that it put undue stress on the whole pant
assembly. Now I just have to figure out how to make a "blister" to cover
it. Anyone know of a premade fiberglass blister about 2.25" wide that I
could just epoxy to the pant?
Anyway, here's my real question. Has anyone used these little doors on the
sides of their RV wheelpants to access the valve stem for checking the
pressure? Drilling a 1" hole sounds like just the right amount of work to
me at this point...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/accessdoors.php
.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Don" <dsvs(at)ca.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Matt,
Blow up a balloon and tape it to the inside of the wheelpant. Push the
amount you need thru the hole and tape it in place. Buile the blister over
the balloon and when finished pop the balloon and remove. Much faster and
easier than clay.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 4:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
I'm happy to report that my second wheel pant installation on the RV-8 is
coming out very nice. With the Grove gear (I guess), I'm finding that I
have to add a large cutout to clear the rear brake caliper. I didn't do
this on the first set and found that it put undue stress on the whole pant
assembly. Now I just have to figure out how to make a "blister" to cover
it. Anyone know of a premade fiberglass blister about 2.25" wide that I
could just epoxy to the pant?
Anyway, here's my real question. Has anyone used these little doors on the
sides of their RV wheelpants to access the valve stem for checking the
pressure? Drilling a 1" hole sounds like just the right amount of work to
me at this point...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/accessdoors.php
.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skylor Piper <skylor4(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Matt,
Even with the stock Van's gear legs I had to make a "blister" to clear the brake
caliper. I simply formed the blister on top of the wheel pants with modeling
clay, glassed over the clay, the ground out the original pant material and clay
with a die grinder. Voil, caliper clearance.
As far as the valve stem goes, I just used Michelin airstop tubes that seem to
hold air pressure very well. Your mileage may vary.
Skylor
RV-8
Just Completed Phase 1
Sent from my iPhone.
On Jul 4, 2010, at 7:22 PM, rv6n(at)optonline.net wrote:
> It is very easy to make your own blister. Cover the surrounding area with clear
packing tape or electric tape first, pack modeling clay or play-do over the
area you want the blister and shape it with a knife, spoon or spatula, lay it
over with the fiberglass and let it harden. Peel the new blister off, clean
out the clay and now glass the blister in place where it belongs. It will take
less time than waiting for something off the shelf to be found.
>
> As for access to the valve stem, drill the hole and use a plastic or metal hole
plug available at your local hardware store.
>
> Bob Bales
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Matt Dralle
> Date: Sunday, July 4, 2010 8:36 pm
> Subject: RV-List: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com
>
> >
> > I'm happy to report that my second wheel pant installation on
> > the RV-8 is coming out very nice. With the Grove gear (I
> > guess), I'm finding that I have to add a large cutout to clear
> > the rear brake caliper. I didn't do this on the first set and
> > found that it put undue stress on the whole pant assembly. Now
> > I just have to figure out how to make a "blister" to cover it.
> > Anyone know of a premade fiberglass blister about 2.25" wide
> > that I could just epoxy to the pant?
> >
> > Anyway, here's my real question. Has anyone used these little
> > doors on the sides of their RV wheelpants to access the valve
> > stem for checking the pressure? Drilling a 1" hole sounds like
> > just the right amount of work to me at this point...
> >
> > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/accessdoors.php
> >
> > .
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> > Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Galati <rick6a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
I installed and use camloc doors and they work as advertised. It is a clean installation,
close tight and look professional. I purchased mine from B&B, a perennial
vendor at the FlyMart for either $5 or $7.50 each. The only problem is
you must find and have the tire valve lined up correctly with the opening in
order to insert the valve extension but other than than, sure saves a lot of time
because you don't have to remove a wheel pant just to add air to the tire.
It is best to make some sort of permanent mark on the tire for that reason.
I much prefer a genuine aircraft part to cheesy and common SS plugs available
at hardware and big box stores best used to do what they were designed to do...plug
open holes in commercial and residential electric boxes. Personal opinion,
YMMV.
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R
RV-8 N308R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph & Maria Finch" <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com> |
Paul, sounds like a firewall problem. Check settings in Windows Firewall:
Start button -> Control Panel -> Windows Firewall
I use Windows 7 Home Premium and use Kitlog with no problems.
Ralph Finch
Davis, California
RV-9A QB-SA
__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 5251 (20100704) __________
The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I did the same. Worked great.
http://blog.bowenaero.com/?p=29
__
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Jul 5, 2010 7:17 AM, "Rick Galati" wrote:
I installed and use camloc doors and they work as advertised. It is a clean
installation, close tight and look professional. I purchased mine from B&B,
a perennial vendor at the FlyMart for either $5 or $7.50 each. The only
problem is you must find and have the tire valve lined up correctly with the
opening in order to insert the valve extension but other than than, sure
saves a lot of time because you don't have to remove a wheel pant just to
add air to the tire. It is best to make some sort of permanent mark on the
tire for that reason. I much prefer a genuine aircraft part to cheesy and
common SS plugs available at hardware and big box stores best used to do
what they were designed to do...plug open holes in commercial and
residential electric boxes. Personal opinion, YMMV.
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R
RV-8 N308R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Matt:
Save your money=2C a little weight=2C and time on making access to air the
tires. Just remove the front half of the wheel pant. This allow you access
to INSPECT the brakes every time you air the tires.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C382+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inb
ox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Matt=2C
I have them on my 8=2C the work=2C but it really is not enough room to see
what you are doing. A more important thing to note is that the valve exten
sion I have got cross threaded part way on and air started to leak out and
I couldn't get it off. The wheel pant contacted the ground as the tire got
lower and cracked out one of the mounting holes. Now I just remove the fr
ont half of the pant to add air.
Good Luck=2C
Paul
> From: dsvs(at)ca.rr.com
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
> Date: Sun=2C 4 Jul 2010 23:52:16 -0700
>
>
> Matt=2C
> I bought a set. Threw them in the trash. They are cheep flimsy pieces of
> crap that do not fully close nor ever close the same way. Always out of
> alignment. Plastic or metel plugs work much better and are very cheep.
> :owes of hpme depot XA department has them.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Sunday=2C July 04=2C 2010 4:24 PM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv7-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv8-list@matronics
.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
>
>
> I'm happy to report that my second wheel pant installation on the RV-8 is
> coming out very nice. With the Grove gear (I guess)=2C I'm finding that I
> have to add a large cutout to clear the rear brake caliper. I didn't do
> this on the first set and found that it put undue stress on the whole pan
t
> assembly. Now I just have to figure out how to make a "blister" to cover
> it. Anyone know of a premade fiberglass blister about 2.25" wide that I
> could just epoxy to the pant?
>
> Anyway=2C here's my real question. Has anyone used these little doors on
the
> sides of their RV wheelpants to access the valve stem for checking the
> pressure? Drilling a 1" hole sounds like just the right amount of work to
> me at this point...
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/accessdoors.php
>
> .
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Blog
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Enjoying The Fruits of 2500 Hours of Labor!
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Matt,
The easy solution is to use 7/8" or 1" snap plugs from the electrical
section of your local hardware store. They come in plastic or steel, and
cost ~$1.00 ea, so if you lose one, you can replace it for nearly
nothing. If you want, you can even paint the steel ones, although they
are polished when you get 'em. They just snap in and out, so you don't
have to rivet anything to the wheel pant and worry about the rivets
working in the fiberglass over time.
IIRC, the distance from the wheel axle to the air valve is ~2", but you
should check that before you go drilling any holes.
Kyle Boatright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Kyle Boatright wrote:
> Matt,
>
> The easy solution is to use 7/8" or 1" snap plugs from the electrical
> section of your local hardware store. They come in plastic or steel,
> and cost ~$1.00 ea, so if you lose one, you can replace it for nearly
> nothing. If you want, you can even paint the steel ones, although they
> are polished when you get 'em. They just snap in and out, so you
> don't have to rivet anything to the wheel pant and worry about the
> rivets working in the fiberglass over time.
But you do have to worry about the goof plugs tearing up that hole in
the fiberglass. My Pitts has plugs in the wings where you access the
flying/landing wires ..... kinda like a inspection plate but about 1"
dia or so with a screw in the middle to clamp the plug down. It'll be
what I use. I put the 90 degree stem tubes in and will use the
extension to air 'em up.
Linn
>
> IIRC, the distance from the wheel axle to the air valve is ~2", but
> you should check that before you go drilling any holes.
>
> Kyle Boatright
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PaulR" <prose(at)panhandle.rr.com> |
So Ralph,
What should the firewall settings be? Remember, I'm not to much of an IT guy.
I still believe in phones with cords connected to them.
Thanks
Paul
--------
Paul Rose
N417PR (res)
RV-9A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303863#303863
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: Hartzell extended hub prop, Precision fuel injection, |
front induction sump
On 7/4/2010 11:15 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> I have for sale a nearly new Hartzell HC-M2YR-1BF extended hub prop.
> Also available, a used governor & high pressure line for this prop.
> This is the prop that fit's James' 'long' cowl without the need for an
> extension. The prop was installed new on a Mustang II, and removed
> when the builder retired the airframe with around 100 hrs on the prop
> (he didn't want to worry about liability when he quit flying the plane).
>
> I also have available a sump & intake tubes for a parallel valve O-360
> that is set up for a forward facing servo. It's a sump from an A-1x
> series engine that originally had a rear induction, modified by a
> certified engine shop for a forward facing injector. The sump & intake
> tubes will fit an unmodified Rv-x motor mount (unlike the 'C' series
> sumps). The servo mount position appears to be within fractions of an
> inch of the OEM Lyc forward facing servo, based on comparing pics of
> the OEM part to this one.
>
> Additionally, I have a Precision EX5VA1 fuel injection system,
> complete from the firewall to the heads, including the flex lines with
> firesleeve, high pressure pump, servo, distribution block, injector
> lines, and injectors. This system came off an RV-7 with less than 10
> hours (wrecked). This system is 'as new', if it was still in the
> packing, you couldn't tell it had ever been installed.
>
> If you're interested in any of these items, email me or give me a call
> at 601-879-9596 & we can discuss price (prices will be very reasonable).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
Correction: the prop's model number is HC-M2YR-1BF.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
I agree with Gary IF you have a good inner tube that holds air reasonably w
ell. With Van's supplied tubes it was a one-a-week deal. Too often to remov
e the wheel pant front in my opinion.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: RV6 Flyer
To: RV List
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
Matt:
Save your money, a little weight, and time on making access to air the ti
res. Just remove the front half of the wheel pant. This allow you access to
INSPECT the brakes every time you air the tires.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,382+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inb
ox. Learn more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete & Delee <4680(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jeppesen Database Updates |
On 7/3/2010 7:46 PM, Chris Hand wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris Hand
>
> I updated mine (2000C) a few months ago off the lei-extras web site. Was $35
for the one time update and the instructions are on the web site.
>
> Chris
>
> On Jul 3, 2010, at 5:44 PM, Pete& Delee<4680(at)att.net> wrote:
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Pete& Delee<4680(at)att.net>
>>
>> Has anyone found a current Jeppesen Database Update for a Lowrance 2000C?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
I just talked to Lowrance Tech. Support and they told me their latest
update is April and they are talking to Jeppesen for current updateds.
He had no idea how long it will take if it will happen at all.
NOT A GOOD SIGN!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
I took the wheelpant install several steps further on my Rocket, to make it
far, far easier to do routine maintenance on the brakes/tires. I used Van's
wheelpants since I have larger 380x150x5 tires, and fabricated 304 stainless
brackets. The inner brackets are oriented vertically so that the attach
points fall under the overlapping seams of the wheelpants--one doesn't have
to crawl into an awkward position to attach the aft screws...also the
bracket attach screws become completely hidden when the front half of the is
in place. I reinforced the wheelpants with a bit of carbon fiber to stiffen
things up on the inboard sides. Since the front half of the wheelpant is
now no longer structural as it doesn't attach to the support brackets
directly, I was able to use the small SK27 Skybolt camlocs, and installed
five of them around the circumference. The front of the wheelpant comes on
in 5 seconds or less, and can have the whole wheelpant off in under 30
seconds. No fooling around with doors, air extensions, and rolling the
airplane around to fill the tires...cleaner installation that turned out
much stronger than the stock setup.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Mon, Jul 5, 2010 at 9:44 AM, RV6 Flyer wrote:
> Matt:
>
> Save your money, a little weight, and time on making access to air the
> tires. Just remove the front half of the wheel pant. This allow you access
> to INSPECT the brakes every time you air the tires.
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 2,382+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
> inbox. Learn more.<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
Hey Bob,
How about a picture of your wheel pants. This sounds like a really nice
project.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:08:07 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rocketbob(at)gmail.com writes:
I took the wheelpant install several steps further on my Rocket, to make
it far, far easier to do routine maintenance on the brakes/tires. I used
Van's wheelpants since I have larger 380x150x5 tires, and fabricated 304
stainless brackets. The inner brackets are oriented vertically so that the
attach points fall under the overlapping seams of the wheelpants--one doesn't
have to crawl into an awkward position to attach the aft screws...also the
bracket attach screws become completely hidden when the front half of the
is in place. I reinforced the wheelpants with a bit of carbon fiber to
stiffen things up on the inboard sides. Since the front half of the wheelpant
is now no longer structural as it doesn't attach to the support brackets
directly, I was able to use the small SK27 Skybolt camlocs, and installed five
of them around the circumference. The front of the wheelpant comes on in
5 seconds or less, and can have the whole wheelpant off in under 30
seconds. No fooling around with doors, air extensions, and rolling the airplane
around to fill the tires...cleaner installation that turned out much
stronger than the stock setup.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Mon, Jul 5, 2010 at 9:44 AM, RV6 Flyer <_rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com_
(mailto:rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com) > wrote:
Matt:
Save your money, a little weight, and time on making access to air the
tires. Just remove the front half of the wheel pant. This allow you access to
INSPECT the brakes every time you air the tires.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,382+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
____________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
inbox. _Learn more._
(http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1)
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
The Michelin tubes that I have do not leak. I added a couple of pounds of
air on Sunday July 4=2C 2010. According to my logbook=2C last time I adde
d was July 10=2C 2009.
They tubes that Van supplied me needed air once a month.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C382+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
From: densing(at)carolina.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
Date: Tue=2C 6 Jul 2010 07:16:55 -0400
I agree with Gary IF you have a good inner tube that holds
air reasonably well. With Van's supplied tubes it was a one-a-week deal. To
o
often to remove the wheel pant front in my opinion.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From:
RV6
Flyer
To: RV List
Sent: Monday=2C July 05=2C 2010 9:44 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Wheelpants Part
Duex - Air Access Door & Misc...
Matt:
Save your money=2C a little weight=2C and time on
making access to air the tires. Just remove the front half of the wheel p
ant.
This allow you access to INSPECT the brakes every time you air the tires.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C382+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your i
nbox.
Learn more.
//www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
ics.com
matronics.com/contribution
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inbox
.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
I seem to remember that there is lister based in Salida, CO. If you are
still on the list, please reply off-list. I recently passed through the
area and I am looking for info regarding the local area. Thanks.
Ivan Haecker -4 1620 hrs. S. Cen. TX
baremetl(at)gvtc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tracy Crook <tracy(at)rotaryaviation.com> |
Ivan,
I don't live there full time but I do spend several months a year at my
place about 30 mi South of Salida. Love the area. What kind of info you
looking for?
Tracy Crook -4 1800 hrs -8 30 hrs.
On Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 8:32 PM, H. Ivan Haecker wrote:
> I seem to remember that there is lister based in Salida, CO. If you are
> still on the list, please reply off-list. I recently passed through the area
> and I am looking for info regarding the local area. Thanks.
>
> Ivan Haecker -4 1620 hrs. S. Cen. TX
> baremetl(at)gvtc.com
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H. Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com> |
Tracy,
I'm looking for a place to spend summers when I retire (two or three
years, I hope). I have lots of questions about flying activity in the
area, common weather conditions, hangar availability, etc. Probably more
questions than everybody on the list wants to hear about. I'd love to
discuss them, but probably better off list. Thanks for your interest.
Ivan Haecker
----- Original Message -----
From: Tracy Crook
To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Salida, CO
Ivan,
I don't live there full time but I do spend several months a year at
my place about 30 mi South of Salida. Love the area. What kind of info
you looking for?
Tracy Crook -4 1800 hrs -8 30 hrs.
On Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 8:32 PM, H. Ivan Haecker
wrote:
I seem to remember that there is lister based in Salida, CO. If you
are still on the list, please reply off-list. I recently passed through
the area and I am looking for info regarding the local area. Thanks.
Ivan Haecker -4 1620 hrs. S. Cen. TX
baremetl(at)gvtc.com
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim hurd" <hurd(at)gvtc.com> |
I've reduced the asking price on my 6A to $52K. It's a 0360A1A
constant-speed slider with 542 hours on factory-new (when built in 1999)
FWF. Hangared near San Antonio.
Won't take up space here...details and pix on B-stormers and TAP online.
Email or call for more info. Jim 830/537-3508
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pete & Delee <4680(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Jeppesen Database Updates |
Here is the official word:
On 7/6/2010 10:17 AM, Pete & Delee wrote:Thank you for your inquiry.
Unfortunately the Jeppesen download site is experiencing technical
difficulties and will be offline approximately 8-10 weeks or until
further notice. We apologize for any inconvenience this has caused.
Please let us know if we may be of further assistance.
Regards,
Barbara
LEI Extras
Division of Navico Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Michael, when I get a moment I will take some pics...just bugs me to see
that people are putting blisters on stock installations while I was able to
get the wheelpants to cover 380x150x5 tires and double-puck Grove brakes,
and have room to spare...through just a small bit of outside-of-the-box
thinking. It would be easy-peasy to do with the RV8 gear.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 3:03 PM, wrote:
> Hey Bob,
>
> How about a picture of your wheel pants. This sounds like a really nice
> project.
>
> Regards,
>
> Michael Wynn
> RV 8 Finishing
> San Ramon, CA
>
> In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:08:07 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> rocketbob(at)gmail.com writes:
>
> I took the wheelpant install several steps further on my Rocket, to make it
> far, far easier to do routine maintenance on the brakes/tires. I used Van's
> wheelpants since I have larger 380x150x5 tires, and fabricated 304 stainless
> brackets. The inner brackets are oriented vertically so that the attach
> points fall under the overlapping seams of the wheelpants--one doesn't have
> to crawl into an awkward position to attach the aft screws...also the
> bracket attach screws become completely hidden when the front half of the is
> in place. I reinforced the wheelpants with a bit of carbon fiber to stiffen
> things up on the inboard sides. Since the front half of the wheelpant is
> now no longer structural as it doesn't attach to the support brackets
> directly, I was able to use the small SK27 Skybolt camlocs, and installed
> five of them around the circumference. The front of the wheelpant comes on
> in 5 seconds or less, and can have the whole wheelpant off in under 30
> seconds. No fooling around with doors, air extensions, and rolling the
> airplane around to fill the tires...cleaner installation that turned out
> much stronger than the stock setup.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
> On Mon, Jul 5, 2010 at 9:44 AM, RV6 Flyer wrote:
>
>> Matt:
>>
>> Save your money, a little weight, and time on making access to air the
>> tires. Just remove the front half of the wheel pant. This allow you access
>> to INSPECT the brakes every time you air the tires.
>>
>>
>> Gary A. Sobek
>> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>> 2,382+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
>> inbox. Learn more.<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1>
>>
>> *
>>
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> ===================================
> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ===================================
> ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
> ===================================
> tp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 4rcsimmons(at)comcast.net |
http://secretosdelalmacen.com.ar/home.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cheathco" <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Dont click on the URL on last msg in Mon night |
Only one msg yhesterday, came in just before midnight, only has a URL
adr. It takes you to a malisious site. Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wheelpants Part Duex - Air Access Door & Misc... |
| From: | "Bob J." <rocketbob(at)gmail.com> |
Here are the pics guys.
http://picasaweb.google.com/rocketbob/WheelpantPics?authkey=Gv1sRgCLil3-T8krfg2AE&feat=directlink
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 10:55 PM, Bob J. wrote:
> Hi Michael, when I get a moment I will take some pics...just bugs me to see
> that people are putting blisters on stock installations while I was able to
> get the wheelpants to cover 380x150x5 tires and double-puck Grove brakes,
> and have room to spare...through just a small bit of outside-of-the-box
> thinking. It would be easy-peasy to do with the RV8 gear.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
> On Tue, Jul 6, 2010 at 3:03 PM, wrote:
>
>> Hey Bob,
>>
>> How about a picture of your wheel pants. This sounds like a really nice
>> project.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Michael Wynn
>> RV 8 Finishing
>> San Ramon, CA
>>
>> In a message dated 7/6/2010 11:08:07 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
>> rocketbob(at)gmail.com writes:
>>
>> I took the wheelpant install several steps further on my Rocket, to make
>> it far, far easier to do routine maintenance on the brakes/tires. I used
>> Van's wheelpants since I have larger 380x150x5 tires, and fabricated 304
>> stainless brackets. The inner brackets are oriented vertically so that the
>> attach points fall under the overlapping seams of the wheelpants--one
>> doesn't have to crawl into an awkward position to attach the aft
>> screws...also the bracket attach screws become completely hidden when the
>> front half of the is in place. I reinforced the wheelpants with a bit of
>> carbon fiber to stiffen things up on the inboard sides. Since the front
>> half of the wheelpant is now no longer structural as it doesn't attach to
>> the support brackets directly, I was able to use the small SK27 Skybolt
>> camlocs, and installed five of them around the circumference. The front of
>> the wheelpant comes on in 5 seconds or less, and can have the whole
>> wheelpant off in under 30 seconds. No fooling around with doors, air
>> extensions, and rolling the airplane around to fill the tires...cleaner
>> installation that turned out much stronger than the stock setup.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Bob Japundza
>> RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 5, 2010 at 9:44 AM, RV6 Flyer wrote:
>>
>>> Matt:
>>>
>>> Save your money, a little weight, and time on making access to air the
>>> tires. Just remove the front half of the wheel pant. This allow you access
>>> to INSPECT the brakes every time you air the tires.
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary A. Sobek
>>> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>>> 2,382+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>> Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your
>>> inbox. Learn more.<http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>> ===================================
>> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> ===================================
>> ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> ===================================
>> tp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bolton" <list(at)therv7.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: RV7 Emp, QB Wings, QB Fuse - North Carolina |
See my listing on VAF:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=60219
RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, qb wings and qb fuse. Kit is located in
Denver, N.C. More photos can be found on my website www.therv7.com.
Asking $23,000. Thanks for looking.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | 4rcsimmons(at)comcast.net |
http://ecutrip.the-best-web-sites.com/web/about.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wade Roe" <wroe1(at)dbtech.net> |
It's about time to start researching the options for liability/hull insurance for
my RV-7. I currently carry Avemco on another plane. Does anyone have recommendations
to share regarding the best value for the RV's?
Thanks!
Wade Roe
EAA 557
RV-7 final touches
Aeronca 7-AC flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance |
| From: | cbrxxdrv(at)aol.com |
Nationair
877-475-5860
They speak RV.
Sal
N898SC
Lakeland FL
N2504E 7ac ......ready for cover
-----Original Message-----
From: Wade Roe <wroe1(at)dbtech.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 15, 2010 2:16 pm
Subject: RV-List: RV insurance
It's about time to start researching the options for liability/hull insura
nce
for my RV-7. I currently carry Avemco on another plane. Does anyone have
recommendations to share regarding the best value for the RV's?
Thanks!
Wade Roe
EAA 557
RV-7 final touches
Aeronca 7-AC flying
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Utsey" <randy(at)djdist.com> |
Try Jenny Estes @ Nationair - jestes(at)nationair.com / 877-475-5860
Randy Utsey
randy(at)djdist.com
www.djdist.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wade Roe
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 2:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV insurance
It's about time to start researching the options for liability/hull insurance for
my RV-7. I currently carry Avemco on another plane. Does anyone have recommendations
to share regarding the best value for the RV's?
Thanks!
Wade Roe
EAA 557
RV-7 final touches
Aeronca 7-AC flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Just got two quotes from Jenny Estes for my 7. Usual coverage including
first flight, 100k hull, etc. $1,800 from Chartis and $2,100 from Global.
They have been doing my builders risk and it has been very reasonable. Great
service and follow-up from Jenny.
Bill S
7a flying next month
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Utsey
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 1:29 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV insurance
Try Jenny Estes @ Nationair - jestes(at)nationair.com / 877-475-5860
Randy Utsey
randy(at)djdist.com
www.djdist.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wade Roe
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 2:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV insurance
It's about time to start researching the options for liability/hull
insurance for my RV-7. I currently carry Avemco on another plane. Does
anyone have recommendations to share regarding the best value for the RV's?
Thanks!
Wade Roe
EAA 557
RV-7 final touches
Aeronca 7-AC flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV insurance |
I would say that, if you have AIG, drop them and go Global. JMO.
-GV
In a message dated 7/15/2010 11:20:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wroe1(at)dbtech.net writes:
It's about time to start researching the options for liability/hull
insurance for my RV-7. I currently carry Avemco on another plane. Does anyone
have recommendations to share regarding the best value for the RV's?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Bolton" <list(at)therv7.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: RV7 Emp w/QB Wings + QB Fuse - North Carolina |
I'm sending this again. I don't think the first time worked (I never got
the email).
Listing on VAF:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=60219
RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, qb wings and qb fuse. Kit is located in
Denver, N.C. More photos can be found on my website www.therv7.com.
Asking $23,000. May be willing to sell the tail seperate from the
wing/fuse if needed. Thanks for looking.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: For Sale: RV7 Emp w/QB Wings + QB Fuse - North Carolina |
I got it the first time. Too bad I am already building a 9A...
Dick Tasker
Tim Bolton wrote:
> I'm sending this again. I don't think the first time worked (I never
> got the email).
> Listing on VAF:
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=60219
> RV-7 with a tip-up canopy, qb wings and qb fuse. Kit is located in
> Denver, N.C. More photos can be found on my website www.therv7.com
> <http://www.therv7.com>. Asking $23,000. May be willing to sell the
> tail seperate from the wing/fuse if needed. Thanks for looking.
> Tim
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Test pilot Joe Shetterly took N811WT off this morning about 7am and stayed
close to Ryan Field for about an hour. I was expecting the usual cooling
problems, but Joe says the cylinder head temps in my Aerosport Power rebuilt
IO-360-B2B stayed below 400 F and the oil temp was at 210, and this is in
Tucson in the summer time. Stall clean was 45 knots - right on Van's
numbers. I made a fiberglass cooling plenum for the thing, maybe that has
had some benefit. At this point I really don't know. It hasn't seemed to
cause a problem at least.
Only squawk was that when he throttled back to 1700 rpm after half an hour
of high cruise operation, the engine loped for a while. He described it as
the typical fuel injected engine loping. Boost pump made no difference.
After a few minutes it settled down and was running smooth when he was in
the pattern. Perhaps that will settle down as the engine breaks-in? I'll
talk to Bart at Aerosport about it.
I haven't flown it yet. I get my transition training on tuesday and
wednesday in an RV-7A at Gillespie Field in San Diego, so I will probably
fly next Friday.
I couldn't have done it without The List!
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A with air under the tires after a mere 12 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Orear <jorear(at)new.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N811WT flies! |
Tom:
Like you, I have been on the list for what seems an eternity, and have
noted your posts over the years. Just want to wish you congrats after
a long build time and wish you the best during phase I testing and
beyond.
Well Done!
Best Regards.
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
On Jul 17, 2010, at 2:13 PM, thomas sargent wrote:
> Test pilot Joe Shetterly took N811WT off this morning about 7am and
> stayed close to Ryan Field for about an hour. I was expecting the
> usual cooling problems, but Joe says the cylinder head temps in my
> Aerosport Power rebuilt IO-360-B2B stayed below 400 F and the oil
> temp was at 210, and this is in Tucson in the summer time. Stall
> clean was 45 knots - right on Van's numbers. I made a fiberglass
> cooling plenum for the thing, maybe that has had some benefit. At
> this point I really don't know. It hasn't seemed to cause a problem
> at least.
>
> Only squawk was that when he throttled back to 1700 rpm after half
> an hour of high cruise operation, the engine loped for a while. He
> described it as the typical fuel injected engine loping. Boost pump
> made no difference. After a few minutes it settled down and was
> running smooth when he was in the pattern. Perhaps that will settle
> down as the engine breaks-in? I'll talk to Bart at Aerosport about it.
>
> I haven't flown it yet. I get my transition training on tuesday and
> wednesday in an RV-7A at Gillespie Field in San Diego, so I will
> probably fly next Friday.
>
> I couldn't have done it without The List!
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A with air under the tires after a mere 12 years.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: N811WT flies! |
Congrats - now the real fun begins.
One of the things I did with my AFP injection system was to reduce the
size of the restrictors from .028 to .024 - I then added one land of
idle mixture adjustment. Mine's an IO360B1F6 with 9.2:1 pistons so
YMMV. You might need a cooling shroud on your fuel pump with fresh air
from the cooling plenum - that should help your running temp on the fuel
pump. I have since balanced the injectors so the all peak within .1gph
- adds to the smoothness.
Break-in and 'regular' oil will drop the temps too.
The list is a treasure trove....
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR @ N06 75hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 3:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: N811WT flies!
Test pilot Joe Shetterly took N811WT off this morning about 7am and
stayed close to Ryan Field for about an hour. I was expecting the usual
cooling problems, but Joe says the cylinder head temps in my Aerosport
Power rebuilt IO-360-B2B stayed below 400 F and the oil temp was at 210,
and this is in Tucson in the summer time. Stall clean was 45 knots -
right on Van's numbers. I made a fiberglass cooling plenum for the
thing, maybe that has had some benefit. At this point I really don't
know. It hasn't seemed to cause a problem at least.
Only squawk was that when he throttled back to 1700 rpm after half an
hour of high cruise operation, the engine loped for a while. He
described it as the typical fuel injected engine loping. Boost pump made
no difference. After a few minutes it settled down and was running
smooth when he was in the pattern. Perhaps that will settle down as the
engine breaks-in? I'll talk to Bart at Aerosport about it.
I haven't flown it yet. I get my transition training on tuesday and
wednesday in an RV-7A at Gillespie Field in San Diego, so I will
probably fly next Friday.
I couldn't have done it without The List!
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A with air under the tires after a mere 12 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "emrath" <emrath(at)comcast.net> |
Congratulations Tom! Having spend 12.5 years, I too know what "waiting" is
all about. My project, RV-6A N826ME, flew for the first time on May 5th
and just completed Phase 1 testing. It's been so hot and humid here in TN
that I only flew in the mornings and then, usually no longer than 90 min.
each time. The test area starts to seem pretty small towards the end. Good
luck with your project.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Subject: RV-List: N811WT flies!
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Test pilot Joe Shetterly took N811WT off this morning about 7am and stayed
close to Ryan Field for about an hour. I was expecting the usual cooling
problems, but Joe says the cylinder head temps in my Aerosport Power rebuilt
IO-360-B2B stayed below 400 F and the oil temp was at 210, and this is in
Tucson in the summer time. Stall clean was 45 knots - right on Van's
numbers. I made a fiberglass cooling plenum for the thing, maybe that has
had some benefit. At this point I really don't know. It hasn't seemed to
cause a problem at least.
Only squawk was that when he throttled back to 1700 rpm after half an hour
of high cruise operation, the engine loped for a while. He described it as
the typical fuel injected engine loping. Boost pump made no difference.
After a few minutes it settled down and was running smooth when he was in
the pattern. Perhaps that will settle down as the engine breaks-in? I'll
talk to Bart at Aerosport about it.
I haven't flown it yet. I get my transition training on tuesday and
wednesday in an RV-7A at Gillespie Field in San Diego, so I will probably
fly next Friday.
I couldn't have done it without The List!
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A with air under the tires after a mere 12 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Tom=2C
CONGRATULLATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (sold)
RV-9A building
Date: Sat=2C 17 Jul 2010 12:13:59 -0700
Subject: RV-List: N811WT flies!
From: sarg314(at)gmail.com
Test pilot Joe Shetterly took N811WT off this morning about 7am and stayed
close to Ryan Field for about an hour. I was expecting the usual cooling p
roblems=2C but Joe says the cylinder head temps in my Aerosport Power rebui
lt IO-360-B2B stayed below 400 F and the oil temp was at 210=2C and this is
in Tucson in the summer time. Stall clean was 45 knots - right on Van's n
umbers. I made a fiberglass cooling plenum for the thing=2C maybe that has
had some benefit. At this point I really don't know. It hasn't seemed to
cause a problem at least.
I couldn't have done it without The List!
--
Tom Sargent=2C RV-6A with air under the tires after a mere 12 years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | N826ME - First Flight |
Hi Marty=2C
I apologize for missing your first flight annoucement. First flights are a
significant life accomplishment!
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!!!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (sold)
RV-9A (building)
> From: emrath(at)comcast.net
> My project=2C RV-6A N826ME=2C flew for the first time on May 5th
> and just completed Phase 1 testing. It's been so hot and humid here in TN
> that I only flew in the mornings and then=2C usually no longer than 90 mi
n.
> each time. The test area starts to seem pretty small towards the end. Goo
d
> luck with your project.
> Marty in Brentwood TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N811WT flies! |
Congratulations, Tom!!! Well, done!
Post some pictures of your RV-6A. Instrument panel and in the air too!
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Working on Replacement Wheel Pants & Oil Door
At 12:13 PM 7/17/2010 Saturday, you wrote:
>Test pilot Joe Shetterly took N811WT off this morning about 7am and stayed close
to Ryan Field for about an hour. I was expecting the usual cooling problems,
but Joe says the cylinder head temps in my Aerosport Power rebuilt IO-360-B2B
stayed below 400 F and the oil temp was at 210, and this is in Tucson in the
summer time. Stall clean was 45 knots - right on Van's numbers. I made a fiberglass
cooling plenum for the thing, maybe that has had some benefit. At this
point I really don't know. It hasn't seemed to cause a problem at least.
>
>Only squawk was that when he throttled back to 1700 rpm after half an hour of
high cruise operation, the engine loped for a while. He described it as the typical
fuel injected engine loping. Boost pump made no difference. After a few
minutes it settled down and was running smooth when he was in the pattern.
Perhaps that will settle down as the engine breaks-in? I'll talk to Bart at Aerosport
about it.
>
>I haven't flown it yet. I get my transition training on tuesday and wednesday
in an RV-7A at Gillespie Field in San Diego, so I will probably fly next Friday.
>
>I couldn't have done it without The List!
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A with air under the tires after a mere 12 years.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | How to get to several rivets? |
I have just (almost) completed riveting the forward top skin on my RV9A
Slider. However, I am at a loss as to how to rivet these three
locations on each side. The back side of the rivets are buried under
the railing and none of the bucking bars I have will reach any of them.
What has everyone done to set these rivets?
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: How to get to several rivets? |
At 08:04 PM 7/18/2010 Sunday, Richard E. Tasker wrote:
>I have just (almost) completed riveting the forward top skin on my RV9A Slider.
However, I am at a loss as to how to rivet these three locations on each side.
The back side of the rivets are buried under the railing and none of the
bucking bars I have will reach any of them. What has everyone done to set these
rivets?
Hi Richard,
Use some CherryMax CR3214! Done.
Here's a write up I did on using these on my RV-8 Project:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8%26project=638%26category=2973%26log=94469%26row=192
and
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8%26&project=638%26category=2973%26log=94470%26row=191
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Redoing Wheelpants & Oil Door...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to get to several rivets? (w/ Links That Work!) |
--> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
At 08:04 PM 7/18/2010 Sunday, Richard E. Tasker wrote:
>I have just (almost) completed riveting the forward top skin on my RV9A Slider.
However, I am at a loss as to how to rivet these three locations on each side.
The back side of the rivets are buried under the railing and none of the
bucking bars I have will reach any of them. What has everyone done to set these
rivets?
Hi Richard,
Use some CherryMax CR3214! Done.
Here's a write up I did on using these on my RV-8 Project:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=94469&row=192
and
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=94470&row=191
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: Redoing Wheelpants & Oil Door...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV9-List: Re: How to get to several rivets? (w/ Links That |
Work!)
Thanks, Matt. I knew there was probably some sort of pulled solution
but didn't know what.
I will order some tonight and then the forward top skin will be done!
Dick Tasker
Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
> --> RV9-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
> At 08:04 PM 7/18/2010 Sunday, Richard E. Tasker wrote:
>
>> I have just (almost) completed riveting the forward top skin on my RV9A Slider.
However, I am at a loss as to how to rivet these three locations on each
side. The back side of the rivets are buried under the railing and none of the
bucking bars I have will reach any of them. What has everyone done to set these
rivets?
>>
> Hi Richard,
>
> Use some CherryMax CR3214! Done.
>
> Here's a write up I did on using these on my RV-8 Project:
>
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=94469&row=192
>
> and
>
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log=94470&row=191
>
>
> Matt Dralle
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: Redoing Wheelpants& Oil Door...
>
>
>
--
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Labels |
>Hi Matt,
>
>I live in Livermore and I'm building an RV10. I contacted Chris at Everon Graphics
in Livermore about a silkscreen for my instrument panel. He said that he
worked on some labels for you and thought that I might like to follow the same
approach. But I didn't really understand how it worked.
>
>I have heard of an approach in which text is printed on a large sheet of plastic
that is cut to match the outline and cut-outs of the panel. The entire sheet
is adhesively applied to the entire panel. The plastic is available in a choice
of colors; the panel does not get painted.
>
>Alternatively, some builders will have text printed on a sheet of plastic, cut
the sheet into little pieces that are adhesively applied to the panel, and possibly
spray a clear coat. The plastic might have a color, or might be clear.
>
>Can you tell me which approach you used? Are you happy with the results? Any
problems working with Chris (he seems a bit slow to return my phone calls)?
>
>Dave Head
Hi Dave!
Here's my recommendation. Have your completed instrument panel power coated medium-gloss
black. This will give the labels a really good surface to bond too.
I power coated my panel a textured black, and the labels don't like to stick
to that texture nearly as well as a gloss.
Use a good CAD program to layout your instrument panel in 100% exact scale. Be
exact on the placement of instruments and holes. I had my panel CNC cut, so
I already had a CAD diagram to start with that had a very accurate instruemnt
and hole layout.
Take the CAD layout of the instruments and holes, and over lay on a separate layer
all of the silkscreening you want. Use a nice BOLD found. Make sure that
all of your various lettering is all laid out straight using guides in the CAD
program.
Now, print out the whole panel with the labels. If you don't have a wide format
plotter, you can tile the prints and then ScotchTape them together. If you
want, you can email the file and I can plot it out for you and then meet you out
at my hanger sometime.
Using the printout, cut it out, and then tape it to your real panel and sit in
the plane in the normal position. Make sure that you can read all of the labeling
and that it really says what you want it to say. Remember, when you're labeling,
LESS-IS-MORE, so don't get too wordy, but be specific. Also remember
that some instruments may stick out from the panel and might obscure the view
of the label from the normal seating postion.
If you have a stick grip with buttons, you can also add a caricature of the stick
grip with button labels and put this on the panel too. See attached.
Once you're happy with your layout, - and don't be afraid to do a number of iterations
of CAD-Plot-Cut-Fit - output your CAD drawing in a high-resolution PDF.
Use perhaps 2000 dpi or more. You can email this file Chris at Everon Graphics
and he will create the mat-finish label from it directly. Creating the label
is a four layer process and there will be white layer, a black layer, textured
top layer, and a sticky back layer. If you give your power coated panel
to Chris, he will apply the label and cut out all the holes for you. That will
cost extra, however. Chris did a very nice job on my panel and I would recommend
it.
You can also create CAD drawings for all the other little labels around the plane.
I made labels for the cabin lights, alt air, cabin heat, etc. Chris has
a nice die cut machine for cutting out these rectangular sized labels.
Chris can also do full-color labels as well. These cost quite a bit more, but
would be really cool. I just didn't have anything that really screamed out color,
so I went with the black-n-white, in keeping with the rest of my interior.
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: New Wheelpants & Oil Door...
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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62
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.837920
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.852560
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VERTEX
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62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.881600
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.907040
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VERTEX
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
10
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
10
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.696320
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.704240
20
3.990960
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.713840
20
3.983040
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VERTEX
8
0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.726800
20
3.976800
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VERTEX
8
0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.803600
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3.953520
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.839120
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3.940800
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.864080
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.896960
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.912080
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.934160
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.955280
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.964880
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3.844080
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.974480
20
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.995120
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3.776880
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.007600
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3.740400
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.014560
20
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.018400
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3.689760
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SEQEND
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CONTINUOUS
66
1
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.037360
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
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0
VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.032800
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.046960
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.071680
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.085120
20
3.801120
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.090880
20
3.783360
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.100000
20
3.745440
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.106480
20
3.701760
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.115120
20
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.122320
20
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.135040
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.137680
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
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2.137200
20
3.168240
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.134800
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3.141360
0
VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.130480
20
3.118080
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.127360
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3.107280
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.123520
20
3.097200
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.113920
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.101920
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3.063360
0
VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.088000
20
3.050160
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.072880
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3.039360
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.056560
20
3.030720
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
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VERTEX
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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CONTINUOUS
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1.894800
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
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1.904160
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3.002640
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
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1.980000
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2.995440
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.040000
20
2.987760
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.065920
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.088240
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VERTEX
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0
62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.098320
20
2.971200
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.107440
20
2.965920
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.115840
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2.959920
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.123520
20
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.130240
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2.945040
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.141520
20
2.927280
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.149920
20
2.907840
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.155920
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VERTEX
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62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.159760
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VERTEX
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62
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.162640
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2.838480
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.165280
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2.797680
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
2.168880
20
2.774640
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.171520
20
2.766720
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
2.176560
20
2.759760
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
2.182320
20
2.756880
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.193360
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2.756160
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CONTINUOUS
10
2.199840
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2.756880
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SEQEND
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POLYLINE
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.786560
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62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.794000
20
3.773520
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.801440
20
3.777840
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.808880
20
3.783120
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VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.812480
20
3.786240
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.816320
20
3.789840
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.820160
20
3.793680
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VERTEX
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62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.824000
20
3.798000
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0
62
7
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CONTINUOUS
10
1.831920
20
3.807360
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VERTEX
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0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.839360
20
3.816720
0
VERTEX
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0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.846800
20
3.825600
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.853760
20
3.833280
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.860720
20
3.839760
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.867200
20
3.845280
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.873440
20
3.850320
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.879680
20
3.854640
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.885680
20
3.858480
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.891680
20
3.862080
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.897680
20
3.865440
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.903680
20
3.868320
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.909440
20
3.870720
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.914960
20
3.872880
0
VERTEX
8
0
62
7
6
CONTINUOUS
10
1.920000
20
3.874320
July 01, 2010 - July 26, 2010
RV-Archive.digest.vol-un