RV-Archive.digest.vol-vo
April 27, 2012 - August 02, 2012
RV-Archive.digest.vol-vo
April 27, 2012 - August 02, 2012
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BtyAM3HRsYB4B565z2oAeQsZMix8xrmScwSKozyeAMZ5OM4HSvaP2TlkHi+//dJFEumuAoPfzY+u
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nnvu6n1b9mgJd/E+3MckSRW1rNIkUO4BjtClyCMfx4wOgAHQZKJPqc5LH7oHrRTSr7jscAdcEZoo
KP/Z
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2012
From: av8r(at)tir.com
Subject: Cobham (was S-Tec) 55x system
Has anyone used this system with the AIU1 analog interface? I am trying to interface
an EFIS system design to it and even though we have NDA's in place with
Cobham I am still not getting the information I need.
The same goes for their rack mounted radios and stand alone GPS-WAAS. It is hard
to know how to specify the hardware when I can't even know how many inputs and
outputs there, much less without knowing the data structures.
Thanks in advance,
George Meier
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2012
Subject: Tungsten Bucking Bar Pre-Order Sale ends Sunday
From: Steven T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Thanks to those that have pre-ordered tungsten bucking bars. I just wanted
to let everyone know that the bars are currently in shipment and will be
arriving at our facility on Monday.
Pre-order pricing will continue through the weekend, and then on Monday
pricing will go to our normal everyday low price. (Our goal is to have the
best tungsten bucking bar prices out there)
If you are interested in ordering, please go to
http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/Tungsten%20Bucking%20Bars.html
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at
steve(at)aircraftspecialty.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2012
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: First Saturday Fly-Ins at KEHR
Our EAA Chapter's Saturday Fly-ins, known as EAA 21 Club, were such a
roaring success the past two years - We are going to do it again.
We will be preparing Hamburgers, Brats and NATHANS FAMOUS Hot Dogs for
all that fly in.
Just as New York's 21 Club has become known as the HAPPENING PLACE to be
and be seen, EAA 21 Club is the place to be on the first Saturday of
each month.
When: May 5, June 2, July 7, August 4, September 1, October 6, 2012
10:00 AM till 2:00 PM Central time.
Where: Henderson Kentucky City-County Airport (KEHR)
If KEHR is VFR then we will be cooking the best Gourmet Burgers,
Brats and Dogs this side of Sporty's.
EAA 21 Club is expanding. Watch for the announcement about our new
Third Saturday Fly-Ins at EVV
http://www.eaa21.org
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Fuel vent modification
Date: Apr 29, 2012
Here is a simple way to keep mud-dabbers from clogging your fuel vent.
I
think more than one RV has collapsed a fuel tank from a clogged vent.
Take a few inches of 3/8=94 aluminum tubing, cut one end at 45 degrees
or so,
then JB Weld on a piece of aluminum window screen material. Once the JB
Weld is cured, clean up the edge on a ScotchBrite wheel or similar. Do
a =BE=94
cut in the other end for a hose clamp, then slide this over the now
somewhat
shortened standard =BC=94 vent tubing. Have the =BC=94 tubing extend
well past
where the clamp goes.
Carl
RV-8A (800 hours)
RV-10 (FSDO comes to inspect May 23rd)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Ciolino" <JohnCiolino(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RE: RV8-List: Fuel vent modification
Date: Apr 30, 2012
An alternate method: flare the end of the tube, cut a circular patch of
flexible fiberglass screening and make radial cuts leaving center =BC=94
uncut.
The cuts will allow you to wrap the screen around the tube overlapping
the
cut pieces. Secure the screen with a piece of shrink tubing.
Easy to do, lasts a long time (2 years so far on my -8) but can be
easily
replaced if necessary.
John Ciolino
RV-8
N894Y
From: owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:54 PM
rv-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV8-List: Fuel vent modification
Here is a simple way to keep mud-dabbers from clogging your fuel vent.
I
think more than one RV has collapsed a fuel tank from a clogged vent.
Take a few inches of 3/8=94 aluminum tubing, cut one end at 45 degrees
or so,
then JB Weld on a piece of aluminum window screen material. Once the JB
Weld is cured, clean up the edge on a ScotchBrite wheel or similar. Do
a =BE=94
cut in the other end for a hose clamp, then slide this over the now
somewhat
shortened standard =BC=94 vent tubing. Have the =BC=94 tubing extend
well past
where the clamp goes.
Carl
RV-8A (800 hours)
RV-10 (FSDO comes to inspect May 23rd)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R Reid" <rgreid(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Clogged Fuel Vents
Date: May 01, 2012
I'm located in Chino and the guy in the hangar across from me worked up a
"Remove Before Flight" flag with a clip that fits into and covers the vents
and pitot tube. He calls it the Mud Safe and it is specifically designed to
keep the mud dabbers out of the various lines. Really easy to use and don't
fall out on the ramp.
Richard Reid
RV-8 N805RM
Cell 562-756-5188
BA 949-724-9444
________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2012
Subject: Re: Clogged Fuel Vents
Hi Richard,
Got a photo?
Thanks,
Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
In a message dated 5/1/2012 9:34:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rgreid(at)earthlink.net writes:
I=99m located in Chino and the guy in the hangar across from me work
ed up a =9C
Remove Before Flight=9D flag with a clip that fits into and covers t
he vents
and pitot tube. He calls it the Mud Safe and it is specifically designed
to keep the mud dabbers out of the various lines. Really easy to use and
don=99t fall out on the ramp.
Richard Reid
RV-8 N805RM
Cell 562-756-5188
BA 949-724-9444
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Clogged Fuel Vents
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Date: May 01, 2012
Do you have some pictures you can post?
Matt
-
Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 170+ Hours TTSN
R Reid wrote:
>I'm located in Chino and the guy in the hangar across from me worked up
>a
>"Remove Before Flight" flag with a clip that fits into and covers the
>vents
>and pitot tube. He calls it the Mud Safe and it is specifically
>designed to
>keep the mud dabbers out of the various lines. Really easy to use and
>don't
>fall out on the ramp.
>
>
>
>
>
>Richard Reid
>RV-8 N805RM
>
>Cell 562-756-5188
>
>BA 949-724-9444
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Clogged Fuel Vents
Date: May 01, 2012
TXkgUlYtNkEgYnVpbGRlciB1c2VkIHRoZSBibHVlIG1ldGFsIDkwIGRlZ3JlZSB0aHJlYWRlZCBm
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: Drain holes on RV-9A
Date: May 08, 2012
Gentlemen,
I=99ve been looking thorough the archives and find nothing
relating to fuselage drain holes on RVs. How are you handling rain
water that enters tri-gear RVs?
Thanks...
Joe Connell
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Drain holes on RV-9A
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Date: May 08, 2012
The plans call for drain hole right behind each bulkhead. I can't remember f
or sure but I think I drill 1/8 holes.
Sent from my Verizon iPhone
On May 8, 2012, at 6:45 AM, wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> I=99ve been looking thorough the archives and find nothing relating t
o fuselage drain holes on RVs. How are you handling rain water that enters t
ri-gear RVs?
>
> Thanks...
>
> Joe Connell
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2012
Subject: Simplified Slider Removal
From: "MikeRV6-A" <mikerv6a@ao-cs.com>
I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
I shortened the sliding canopy rear anchor assemblies (C665 and C677)
at left and right to leave a gap between these anchors and the rear of
the canopy roller tracks (C657), so that the canopy can slide aft by
about an extra 15/16". This is sufficient to permit lifting the canopy
rollers clear of the track for removal. I added a quick-release pin at
each side to stop the canopy travel at the normal distance. The
quick-release pins are installed in added plastic blocks that are
mounted alongside the new gaps, so that removal of the pins opens the
gaps for removal of the canopy. See picture.
Mike Linse, RV-6A slow-build, Corvallis, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2012
Subject: Re: Drain holes on RV-9A
From: Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com>
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Simplified Slider Removal
Date: May 08, 2012
That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How strong
is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When the
canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
holder.
Jeff Luckey
RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeRV6-A
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
I shortened the sliding canopy rear anchor assemblies (C665 and C677)
at left and right to leave a gap between these anchors and the rear of
the canopy roller tracks (C657), so that the canopy can slide aft by
about an extra 15/16". This is sufficient to permit lifting the canopy
rollers clear of the track for removal. I added a quick-release pin at
each side to stop the canopy travel at the normal distance. The
quick-release pins are installed in added plastic blocks that are
mounted alongside the new gaps, so that removal of the pins opens the
gaps for removal of the canopy. See picture.
Mike Linse, RV-6A slow-build, Corvallis, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2012
From: "MikeRV6-A" <mikerv6a@ao-cs.com>
Subject: Simplified Slider Removal
Hi Jeff
I did consider the slammed-canopy question.
The plastic blocks are acetal, AKA delrin, and they are very strong,
although not as strong as aluminum parts of similar dimensions. I
tested by mounting a prototype block in a vise, with a bolt in place
of the quick-release pin, and I hit the "pin" with a hammer repeatedly
with increasing force until the block broke. It took a considerable
blow to break the plastic. A slammed-open canopy would be landing
against two blocks, and there is some small compliance in the canopy
that might make such an event a bit softer than a hammer blow.
Aluminum blocks would be about the same machining task, and stronger.
Plastic blocks could be made with a more purely rectangular shape,
with the result that they would be much harder to break. If I ever
break one, that might be my response.
I have found this arrangement very convenient during my canopy and
cockpit work, and it's a change that's relatively easy to do in a
finished plane.
Mike Linse
> That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
> I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How
> strong
> is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When
> the
> canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
> holder.
>
> Jeff Luckey
> RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MikeRV6-A
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
> Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>
> I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
> the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
-remainder of original msg trimmed-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Danielson <johnd(at)wlcwyo.com>
Date: May 08, 2012
Subject: Simplified Slider Removal
I did pretty much the same thing to my RV-6 back in 2002. I used a piece of aluminum
angle that I used as a stop.
I drilled a hole thru the angle and tapped the structure below and used a screw
to fasten the angle in place.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeRV6-A
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 3:23 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
Hi Jeff
I did consider the slammed-canopy question.
The plastic blocks are acetal, AKA delrin, and they are very strong,
although not as strong as aluminum parts of similar dimensions. I
tested by mounting a prototype block in a vise, with a bolt in place
of the quick-release pin, and I hit the "pin" with a hammer repeatedly
with increasing force until the block broke. It took a considerable
blow to break the plastic. A slammed-open canopy would be landing
against two blocks, and there is some small compliance in the canopy
that might make such an event a bit softer than a hammer blow.
Aluminum blocks would be about the same machining task, and stronger.
Plastic blocks could be made with a more purely rectangular shape,
with the result that they would be much harder to break. If I ever
break one, that might be my response.
I have found this arrangement very convenient during my canopy and
cockpit work, and it's a change that's relatively easy to do in a
finished plane.
Mike Linse
> That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
> I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How
> strong
> is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When
> the
> canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
> holder.
>
> Jeff Luckey
> RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MikeRV6-A
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
> Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>
> I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
> the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
-remainder of original msg trimmed-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Simplified Slider Removal
Date: May 09, 2012
How does the canopy get slammed open? Why?
I've been flying with my slider for 10+ years, never has it been slammed
open!
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 4:36 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>
> That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
>
> I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How
> strong
> is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When
> the
> canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
> holder.
>
>
> Jeff Luckey
> RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeRV6-A
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>
> I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
> the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
> I shortened the sliding canopy rear anchor assemblies (C665 and C677)
> at left and right to leave a gap between these anchors and the rear of
> the canopy roller tracks (C657), so that the canopy can slide aft by
> about an extra 15/16". This is sufficient to permit lifting the canopy
> rollers clear of the track for removal. I added a quick-release pin at
> each side to stop the canopy travel at the normal distance. The
> quick-release pins are installed in added plastic blocks that are
> mounted alongside the new gaps, so that removal of the pins opens the
> gaps for removal of the canopy. See picture.
>
> Mike Linse, RV-6A slow-build, Corvallis, OR
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2012
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Simplified slider removal
I can't see the photo's, and am not perfectly clear on all the objectives of this
design mod, but my choice was to replace the bolt that holds the roller in
the frame with a quick release pin. Not only is the canopy quick and easy to
remove, but it can be done in flight, if need be...
Glen Matejcek
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Simplified Slider Removal
From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Date: May 09, 2012
I had the same question in my mind. In eight years I have not experienced that.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 9, 2012, at 7:29, "Panama Red" wrote:
>
> How does the canopy get slammed open? Why?
>
> I've been flying with my slider for 10+ years, never has it been slammed open!
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 4:36 PM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>
>
>>
>> That is pretty cool but let me play devil's advocate for a minute:
>>
>> I wonder about the strength of the plastic used to hold the pin. How strong
>> is that stuff and would aluminum be a better choice for durability? When the
>> canopy gets "slammed" open it would put a lot of force on the pin & its
>> holder.
>>
>>
>> Jeff Luckey
>> RV-7A, slow build, starting wings
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeRV6-A
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 09:30
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Simplified Slider Removal
>>
>> I wanted to find a way to simplify the task of removal of
>> the sliding canopy. The picture shows the details.
>> I shortened the sliding canopy rear anchor assemblies (C665 and C677)
>> at left and right to leave a gap between these anchors and the rear of
>> the canopy roller tracks (C657), so that the canopy can slide aft by
>> about an extra 15/16". This is sufficient to permit lifting the canopy
>> rollers clear of the track for removal. I added a quick-release pin at
>> each side to stop the canopy travel at the normal distance. The
>> quick-release pins are installed in added plastic blocks that are
>> mounted alongside the new gaps, so that removal of the pins opens the
>> gaps for removal of the canopy. See picture.
>>
>> Mike Linse, RV-6A slow-build, Corvallis, OR
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a(at)cox.net>
Subject: Engine Quit
Date: May 11, 2012
OK I need some help on where to start looking. Sorry for a long post
but don't know how to say it without leaving important stuff out. About
a month ago I lost power on takeoff. It didn't quit completely so
thanks to some throttle blips and altitude I made the "impossible turn"
and got the plane back on the ground and taxied normally to the hangar.
First we checked the fuel system, doing fuel flows every conceivable way
we knew how. Even tied the tail down and ran one in a "climb out
attitude". All flows seemed to be normal.
The next thing was to download the Dynon data log. In looking that over
it became apparent at the time of the incident I was producing 62 Amps
and 20+ Volts. This would last for a few seconds and drop to a more
normal range then spike again it did it several times. It appeared that
the spikes were when the engine wasn't running.
The next was checking the P and E mags. Brad, at E-Mag, after hearing
my story suggested I send them in. They found the circuit board in the
P-Mag wasn't reliable. Both mags had been subjected to very high temps,
according to Brad this could have been from the engine oil temp or the
high amperage. I learned that I had the blast tubes aimed incorrectly.
They have been rebuilt and are now both P-Mags.
The alternator, Van's Nippon Denso, was bench checked twice by two
separate shops. Everything was normal.
The plane was reassembled and test run. Everything seemed normal until
I ran high RPM, 2000+. As soon as the RPMs climbed the Dynon showed the
amps climbed right up to 60 and voltage up to 20. The engine kept
running on the ground but to say the least I am not enthusiastic trying
to fly it with these same conditions.
Where do I go from here?
Jim Thorne
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul Rice <rice737(at)msn.com>
Subject: Engine Quit
Date: May 11, 2012
Just an amateur thought here. Did you look at the battery? I've always k
ind of thought of it as a shock absorber for the alternator. Are the conne
ctions good/clean=2C is the battery shorting out? I don't have any experie
nce with the P mags so I don't know how they would come into play. Good lu
ckFrom: rv7a(at)cox.net
Subject: RV-List: Engine Quit
Date: Fri=2C 11 May 2012 14:58:49 -0700
OK I need
some help on where to start looking.
Sorry for a long post but don=92t know how to say it without leaving
important stuff out. About a month
ago I lost power on takeoff. It
didn=92t quit completely so thanks to some throttle blips and altitude I ma
de the
=93impossible turn=94 and got the plane back on the ground and taxied norma
lly to
the hangar.
First we
checked the fuel system=2C doing fuel flows every conceivable way we knew h
ow.
Even tied the tail down and ran one in a =93climb out attitude=94. All flo
ws seemed to be normal.
The next
thing was to download the Dynon data log.
In looking that over it became apparent at the time of the incident I was
producing 62 Amps and 20+ Volts.
This would last for a few seconds and drop to a more normal range then
spike again it did it several times.
It appeared that the spikes were when the engine wasn=92t running.
The next was
checking the P and E mags. Brad=2C at
E-Mag=2C after hearing my story suggested I send them in. They found the c
ircuit board in the
P-Mag wasn=92t reliable. Both mags
had been subjected to very high temps=2C according to Brad this could have
been
from the engine oil temp or the high amperage. I learned that I had the bla
st
tubes aimed incorrectly. They have been rebuilt and are now both
P-Mags.
The
alternator=2C Van=92s Nippon Denso=2C was bench checked twice by two separa
te
shops. Everything was normal.
The plane was
reassembled and test run.
Everything seemed normal until I ran high RPM=2C 2000+. As soon as the RPMs
climbed the Dynon showed the amps climbed right up to 60 and voltage up to
20. The engine kept running on the
ground but to say the least I am not enthusiastic trying to fly it with the
se
same conditions.
Where do I go
from here?
Jim
Thorne
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Burns" <burnsm(at)suddenlink.net>
Date: May 11, 2012
Subject: Re: Engine Quit
Jim,
I'd start by verifying the high voltage.
If it really does go to 20 that is bad.
Replace the alternator.
Mark
Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Jim Thorne <rv7a(at)cox.net>
Sent: Fri, May 11, 2012 21:58:49 GMT+00:00
Subject: RV-List: Engine Quit
OK I need some help on where to start looking. Sorry for a long post but
don't know how to say it without leaving important stuff out. About a month
ago I lost power on takeoff. It didn't quit completely so thanks to some
throttle blips and altitude I made the "impossible turn" and got the plane
back on the ground and taxied normally to the hangar.
First we checked the fuel system, doing fuel flows every conceivable way we
knew how. Even tied the tail down and ran one in a "climb out attitude".
All flows seemed to be normal.
The next thing was to download the Dynon data log. In looking that over it
became apparent at the time of the incident I was producing 62 Amps and 20+
Volts. This would last for a few seconds and drop to a more normal range
then spike again it did it several times. It appeared that the spikes were
when the engine wasn't running.
The next was checking the P and E mags. Brad, at E-Mag, after hearing my
story suggested I send them in. They found the circuit board in the P-Mag
wasn't reliable. Both mags had been subjected to very high temps, according
to Brad this could have been from the engine oil temp or the high amperage.
I learned that I had the blast tubes aimed incorrectly. They have been
rebuilt and are now both P-Mags.
The alternator, Van's Nippon Denso, was bench checked twice by two separate
shops. Everything was normal.
The plane was reassembled and test run. Everything seemed normal until I
ran high RPM, 2000+. As soon as the RPMs climbed the Dynon showed the amps
climbed right up to 60 and voltage up to 20. The engine kept running on the
ground but to say the least I am not enthusiastic trying to fly it with
these same conditions.
Where do I go from here?
Jim Thorne
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine Quit
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net>
Date: May 11, 2012
Just thinking. Maybe try a different alternator.
Sent from my Verizon iPhone
On May 11, 2012, at 4:58 PM, "Jim Thorne" wrote:
> OK I need some help on where to start looking. Sorry for a long post but d
on=99t know how to say it without leaving important stuff out. About a
month ago I lost power on takeoff. It didn=99t quit completely so th
anks to some throttle blips and altitude I made the =9Cimpossible turn
=9D and got the plane back on the ground and taxied normally to the ha
ngar.
>
> First we checked the fuel system, doing fuel flows every conceivable way w
e knew how. Even tied the tail down and ran one in a =9Cclimb out atti
tude=9D. All flows seemed to be normal.
>
> The next thing was to download the Dynon data log. In looking that over i
t became apparent at the time of the incident I was producing 62 Amps and 20
+ Volts. This would last for a few seconds and drop to a more normal range t
hen spike again it did it several times. It appeared that the spikes were w
hen the engine wasn=99t running.
>
> The next was checking the P and E mags. Brad, at E-Mag, after hearing my s
tory suggested I send them in. They found the circuit board in the P-Mag wa
sn=99t reliable. Both mags had been subjected to very high temps, acc
ording to Brad this could have been from the engine oil temp or the high amp
erage. I learned that I had the blast tubes aimed incorrectly. They have bee
n rebuilt and are now both P-Mags.
>
> The alternator, Van=99s Nippon Denso, was bench checked twice by two
separate shops. Everything was normal.
>
> The plane was reassembled and test run. Everything seemed normal until I r
an high RPM, 2000+. As soon as the RPMs climbed the Dynon showed the amps cl
imbed right up to 60 and voltage up to 20. The engine kept running on the g
round but to say the least I am not enthusiastic trying to fly it with these
same conditions.
>
> Where do I go from here?
>
> Jim Thorne
>
> RV7A
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Engine Quit
Date: May 11, 2012
Jim,
When checking the alternator, was the regulator also checked? This has some
classic symptoms of regulator failure. If the voltage is getting that high
there is definitely something wrong w/ the regulator.
In your research, did you find that the mags would likely stop making sparks
when exposed to that level of over-voltage?
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thorne
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 14:59
Subject: RV-List: Engine Quit
OK I need some help on where to start looking. Sorry for a long post but
don't know how to say it without leaving important stuff out. About a month
ago I lost power on takeoff. It didn't quit completely so thanks to some
throttle blips and altitude I made the "impossible turn" and got the plane
back on the ground and taxied normally to the hangar.
First we checked the fuel system, doing fuel flows every conceivable way we
knew how. Even tied the tail down and ran one in a "climb out attitude".
All flows seemed to be normal.
The next thing was to download the Dynon data log. In looking that over it
became apparent at the time of the incident I was producing 62 Amps and 20+
Volts. This would last for a few seconds and drop to a more normal range
then spike again it did it several times. It appeared that the spikes were
when the engine wasn't running.
The next was checking the P and E mags. Brad, at E-Mag, after hearing my
story suggested I send them in. They found the circuit board in the P-Mag
wasn't reliable. Both mags had been subjected to very high temps, according
to Brad this could have been from the engine oil temp or the high amperage.
I learned that I had the blast tubes aimed incorrectly. They have been
rebuilt and are now both P-Mags.
The alternator, Van's Nippon Denso, was bench checked twice by two separate
shops. Everything was normal.
The plane was reassembled and test run. Everything seemed normal until I
ran high RPM, 2000+. As soon as the RPMs climbed the Dynon showed the amps
climbed right up to 60 and voltage up to 20. The engine kept running on the
ground but to say the least I am not enthusiastic trying to fly it with
these same conditions.
Where do I go from here?
Jim Thorne
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Engine Quit
Date: May 11, 2012
Only the alternator can put out this much power - the pMags are tiny in
comparison. Hopefully you have not damaged them with the excessive voltage.
Disconnect the alternator and do a run up. If normal this confirms the
alternator as the problem. I had a Nippon Denso alternator slowly go bad on
my 8A - same problem, high voltage. I replaced it with a Plane Power
alternator. This is a much better product and I recommend it. When you
replace, make sure you have proper alternator ground and a clean source
voltage connection.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Rice
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 6:22 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Engine Quit
Just an amateur thought here. Did you look at the battery? I've always
kind of thought of it as a shock absorber for the alternator. Are the
connections good/clean, is the battery shorting out? I don't have any
experience with the P mags so I don't know how they would come into play.
Good luck
_____
From: rv7a(at)cox.net
Subject: RV-List: Engine Quit
Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 14:58:49 -0700
OK I need some help on where to start looking. Sorry for a long post but
don't know how to say it without leaving important stuff out. About a month
ago I lost power on takeoff. It didn't quit completely so thanks to some
throttle blips and altitude I made the "impossible turn" and got the plane
back on the ground and taxied normally to the hangar.
First we checked the fuel system, doing fuel flows every conceivable way we
knew how. Even tied the tail down and ran one in a "climb out attitude".
All flows seemed to be normal.
The next thing was to download the Dynon data log. In looking that over it
became apparent at the time of the incident I was producing 62 Amps and 20+
Volts. This would last for a few seconds and drop to a more normal range
then spike again it did it several times. It appeared that the spikes were
when the engine wasn't running.
The next was checking the P and E mags. Brad, at E-Mag, after hearing my
story suggested I send them in. They found the circuit board in the P-Mag
wasn't reliable. Both mags had been subjected to very high temps, according
to Brad this could have been from the engine oil temp or the high amperage.
I learned that I had the blast tubes aimed incorrectly. They have been
rebuilt and are now both P-Mags.
The alternator, Van's Nippon Denso, was bench checked twice by two separate
shops. Everything was normal.
The plane was reassembled and test run. Everything seemed normal until I
ran high RPM, 2000+. As soon as the RPMs climbed the Dynon showed the amps
climbed right up to 60 and voltage up to 20. The engine kept running on the
ground but to say the least I am not enthusiastic trying to fly it with
these same conditions.
Where do I go from here?
Jim Thorne
RV7A
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Quit
Date: May 11, 2012
Jim, one thing you don't want to overlook. Check the next time you run
the engine that the starter is not engaging the flywheel. I have heard
(don't know how valid) that a engaged/stuck starter can act as a
generator. I would presume the starter/flywheel might show some
physical evidence if that occurred. I know pretty long shot - but,
wouldn't hurt to check.
The Pmags have an internal generator that can easily produce 20 volts -
however, I am certain it could not sustain 60 amps - probably no more
than 3-4 amps. In any case, there is a diode in the Pmag that should
prevent your aircraft system from ever seeing the Pmag internally
generator voltage.
Check your Pmag manual for more information.
Ed
Edward L. Anderson
Anderson Electronic Enterprises LLC
305 Reefton Road
Weddington, NC 28104
http://www.andersonee.com
http://www.eicommander.com
From: Jim Thorne
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2012 5:58 PM
Subject: RV-List: Engine Quit
OK I need some help on where to start looking. Sorry for a long post
but don't know how to say it without leaving important stuff out. About
a month ago I lost power on takeoff. It didn't quit completely so
thanks to some throttle blips and altitude I made the "impossible turn"
and got the plane back on the ground and taxied normally to the hangar.
First we checked the fuel system, doing fuel flows every conceivable way
we knew how. Even tied the tail down and ran one in a "climb out
attitude". All flows seemed to be normal.
The next thing was to download the Dynon data log. In looking that over
it became apparent at the time of the incident I was producing 62 Amps
and 20+ Volts. This would last for a few seconds and drop to a more
normal range then spike again it did it several times. It appeared that
the spikes were when the engine wasn't running.
The next was checking the P and E mags. Brad, at E-Mag, after hearing
my story suggested I send them in. They found the circuit board in the
P-Mag wasn't reliable. Both mags had been subjected to very high temps,
according to Brad this could have been from the engine oil temp or the
high amperage. I learned that I had the blast tubes aimed incorrectly.
They have been rebuilt and are now both P-Mags.
The alternator, Van's Nippon Denso, was bench checked twice by two
separate shops. Everything was normal.
The plane was reassembled and test run. Everything seemed normal until
I ran high RPM, 2000+. As soon as the RPMs climbed the Dynon showed the
amps climbed right up to 60 and voltage up to 20. The engine kept
running on the ground but to say the least I am not enthusiastic trying
to fly it with these same conditions.
Where do I go from here?
Jim Thorne
RV7A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2012
From: Reuven Silberman <pilots2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Quit
I would agree with Jim here.=C2- Check the regulator.=C2- An alternator
basically puts out 100% of its rated power when it is up=C2-operating sp
eed and the regulator chokes it down to manageable levels.=C2- If you hav
e one of the old style regulators with the coils and points - junk it and p
ick up a solid state one.=C2-=C2- Many of the newer alternators have in
ternal regualtors and to check them out I would take it=C2-to an automoti
ve electrical shop and have them run it on a tester.=0A=C2-=0AReuven=0A
=0AEnjoy life now=0AIt has an expiration date.=0A =0A=0A___________________
_____________=0A From: Jeff Luckey <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>=0ATo: rv-list@matr
onics.com =0ASent: Friday, May 11, 2012 3:42 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV-List: Eng
ine Quit=0A =0A=0A =0AJim, =0A=C2- =0AWhen checking the alternator, was
the regulator=0Aalso checked?=C2- This has some classic symptoms of regul
ator failure. =C2-If the=0Avoltage is getting that high there is definite
ly something wrong w/ the=0Aregulator. =0A=C2- =0AIn your research, did y
ou find that the=0Amags would likely stop making sparks when exposed to tha
t level of over-voltage? =0A=C2- =0A=0A________________________________
=0A =0AFrom:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-serve
r(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Thorne=0ASent: Friday, May 11, 2012 14:59
=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RV-List: Engine Quit =0A=C2- =0A
OK I need some help on where to=0Astart looking.=C2- Sorry for a long pos
t but don=99t know how to say it=0Awithout leaving important stuff ou
t.=C2- About a month ago I lost power on=0Atakeoff.=C2- It didn
=99t quit completely so thanks to some throttle blips and=0Aaltitude I made
the =9Cimpossible turn=9D and got the plane back on the=0Agrou
nd and taxied normally to the hangar. =0AFirst we checked the fuel system,
=0Adoing fuel flows every conceivable way we knew how. Even tied the tail d
own and=0Aran one in a =9Cclimb out attitude=9D.=C2- All flow
s seemed to be normal. =0AThe next thing was to download the=0ADynon data l
og.=C2- In looking that over it became apparent at the time of the=0Ainci
dent I was producing 62 Amps and 20+ Volts.=C2- This would last for a few
=0Aseconds and drop to a more normal range then spike again it did it sever
al=0Atimes.=C2- It appeared that the spikes were when the engine wasn
=99t running.=C2- =0AThe next was checking the P and E=0Amags.=C2-
Brad, at E-Mag, after hearing my story suggested I send them in.=C2- They
=0Afound the circuit board in the P-Mag wasn=99t reliable.=C2- Both
mags had been=0Asubjected to very high temps, according to Brad this could
have been from the=0Aengine oil temp or the high amperage. I learned that
I had the blast tubes=0Aaimed incorrectly. They have been rebuilt and are n
ow both P-Mags. =0AThe alternator, Van=99s Nippon=0ADenso, was bench
checked twice by two separate shops.=C2- Everything was normal.=C2-
=0AThe plane was reassembled and test=0Arun.=C2- Everything seemed normal
until I ran high RPM, 2000+. As soon as the RPMs=0Aclimbed the Dynon showe
d the amps climbed right up to 60 and voltage up to 20.=C2-=0AThe engine
kept running on the ground but to say the least I am not=0Aenthusiastic try
ing to fly it with these same conditions. =0AWhere do I go from here? =0AJi
m Thorne =0ARV7A =0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/contributio
===============
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: May 12, 2012
Subject: Re: Engine Quit
It sounds to me like the sense lead to the regulator is intermittent. The
fault may be internal to the regulator, or it may be a loose or broken
wire. I think on the Vans alternator hookup that one of the wires going into
the back of the alternator would be that lead. It may connect directly to
the field supply near the connector going into the alternator. At any
rate, carefully check that wiring by tugging on the wire while you have a
voltmeter connected and the alternator and master switches on, but disconnected
from the alternator.
If no problem is found with the wiring, replace the regulator (inside the
alternator), or replace the alternator and regulator -- regardless of what a
bench test shows. There isn't as much vibration on the bench as there is
on the Lycoming!
If the sense lead opens up the alternator may go "full field", or it may
not -- depending on whether there is a fail safe internal circuit to pick up
another sense point. (GM regulators have this safety feature. Not sure
about Nippondenso.)
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Lightsquared files for bankruptcy
Date: May 14, 2012
http://dealbook.nytimes.com/2012/05/14/falcones-lightsquared-files-for-bank
ruptcy/?nl=afternoonupdate&emc=edit_au_20120514
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Jig Stiffeners?
Date: May 19, 2012
Hey guys,
Its been nearly 12 years since I built the elevators and rudder for my
RV-6. I recently damaged my right elevator and need to replace the
skin and stiffeners. My feeble memory seems to recall I made a small
jig that greatly sped up shaping and drilling the stiffeners, but I
cannot recall how the jig was made and/or how it was used. Can anybody
help?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2012
From: Reuven Silberman <pilots2(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Exit Fairing
Cooling is an art, science, and black magic all rolled into one.- If your
looking for efficient cooling read LoPersit or Lazlo Pazmany's stuff.- Y
ou can also-Google aircraft piston engine cooling and you will get pages
of stuff.=0A-=0AIf you having problems with one cyl- look from the top
down between the cooling fins in and around the spark plug and top the the
cyl and clean out all the casting slag.- =0A-=0AReuven Silberman--
=0A=0AEnjoy life now=0AIt has an expiration date.=0A =0A=0A________________
________________=0A From: Kevin Horton <khorton02(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: "rv-list
(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Saturday, May 19, 2012 5:4
9 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Exit Fairing=0A =0A--> RV-List message posted
by: Kevin Horton =0A=0AA smooth, rounded ramp like th
at should lead to a decrease in CHTs, in theory.- But, the devil is in th
e details.- I can't tell from the picture, but is it possible that the bo
ttom of that fairing extends down far enough to decrease the exit area from
what it would be if the fairing was not installed?- If so, it is quite p
ossible that you have less air flowing than before, and thus may see an inc
rease in CHTs.- Normally, if there is less air flowing, there should be l
ess cooling drag, and a speed increase.- But, the decrease in air flow, w
ith the same frontal area from the part of the cowling that is dropped down
where the exhaust pipes exit, would give extra wake drag which may cancel
out the decrease in cooling drag.=0A=0AIdeally, the rounded radius would en
d on a tangent to the bottom of the fuselage.- If the radius keeps going
so there is a sharp corner where it meets the bottom of the fuselage, there
May be some flow separation behind the radius, leading to extra drag.=0A
=0AKevin Horton=0A=0ASent from my iPad=0A=0AOn 2012-05-19, at 11:30 AM, mr.
gsun(at)gmail.com wrote:=0A=0A> Hey RV posters,- - In my never ending ques
t for another ounce of velocity, I installed a cooling air exit fairing at
the bottom of the firewall in my RV-7.- - IO-360.- 4 into 2 Vetterman
Exhaust pipes.- The idea is to straighten the exiting cooling airflow t
o more closely align with the slipstream.- It was one of those easy to i
nstall mods that an experienced RV builder told me about.=0A> =0A> It is a
curved piece of aluminum about 4" diameter and approximately 10" long.- T
he lower surface is in line with the bottom of the fuselage.- A photo is
attached.=0A> =0A> The question is:- Has anyone installed this sort of th
ing before?- Did you get the same ZERO results?- Did it cause increased
CHTs?- My #3 continues to be too hot but I can't tell if it was affected
by this mod.- Haven't decided if it is worth removing it.=0A> =0A> Do no
=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: EAA Fly-In, Pancake Breakfast & Spot Landing Contest
Date: May 20, 2012
There are so few west coast RV Fly-In's that I need to take advantage of th
em when they happen. Yesterday I flew to the EAA Chapter 1469 RV Fly-In and
pancake breakfast with a Spot Landing contest. The attendance was a bit un
derwhelming (see below):
Yup, that is right...I was the only RV there. The good news is I absolutely
DESTROYED the competition on the spot landing contest. No one even close!
Robin "lonely" Marks
[Description: C:\Users\Robin\Desktop\EAA Fly In.jpg]
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2012
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: EAA Fly-In, Pancake Breakfast & Spot Landing Contest
Did you take first, second and third? ;)
Ace
On 5-20-2012 18:32, Robin Marks wrote:
>
> There are so few west coast RV Fly-In's that I need to take advantage
> of them when they happen. Yesterday I flew to the EAA Chapter 1469 RV
> Fly-In and pancake breakfast with a Spot Landing contest. The
> attendance was a bit underwhelming (see below):
>
> Yup, that is right...I was the only RV there. The good news is I
> absolutely DESTROYED the competition on the spot landing contest. No
> one even close!
>
> Robin "lonely" Marks
>
> Description: C:\Users\Robin\Desktop\EAA Fly In.jpg
>
--
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 20, 2012
Subject: RV Camaraderie
Greetings,
A few weeks back I was at the Chino Wings of Fame Airshow. On start up my
long time discontinued plastic sump finally exploded as they tend to do.
(probably a decent reason to discontinue them although at 735 hrs I had
pretty good luck)
Thanks to the help of a group of RV enthusiasts based in and around Socal I
had a sump retrofit kit a few hours after the incident. As one spectator
put it, even if you lived next to aircraft spruce you wouldn't have had it
any sooner. The part was graciously loaned to me by Gary Sobek. Brad
Peacock, in a flight of 4, flew over to Cable airport to pick the part up.
Around 11 PM, with the help of many, the plane was back together and ready
for action and after a great nights sleep provided graciously provided by
Brad Peacock and his wonderful wife, I was able to get home.
The attitude of the RV group at Chino wasn't "who's this knucklehead still
riding around with a plastic sump?" The attitude was "what can we do to get
you home ASAP?"
So 16 hrs of down time, 8 of which were sleep!
You just can't buy this kind of kinship.
The epilogue of this is that Superior Airparts is out of bankruptcy, back
making money again, and they replaced the sump free of charge with a
complete all aluminum retro fit kit which I passed along to Mr. Sobek.
Many thanks to you all!
Bill
N84WJ, 738 hrs
http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2012
From: N8RV(at)gte.net
Subject: The Original RV-1 Midwest Barnstorming Tour
Richard VanGrunsven's original RV-1 -- yes, the grandaddy of all of our
RVs -- is about to begin its Midwest Barnstorming Tour across the
I-80/90 corridor. One week from today -- Memorial Day, May 28th -- "The
One" will cross over from Canada and clear customs at Toledo Executive
Airport (TDZ) in the morning.
The Toledo EAA chapter has some events planned for the day (including
food, naturally), and then the RV-1 will continue its cross-country tour
with a stop at the Mishawaka Pilots' Club (3C1) in Elkhart, IN for fuel
and an overnight stop.
Next on the tour is Marshall County Airport (C75) in Lacon, IL (near
Peoria), then on to Omar Bradley (MBY) in Moberly, MO, on May 29th.
If you'd like to see a very significant piece of RV history -- and
indeed, aviation history -- with your very eyes, please plan to
fly/drive/hitchhike to one of the Barnstorming Tour stops and spend a
little time with fellow RVers and enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime
opportunity. The RV-1 will end its tour at the EAA Museum in Oshkosh
later this year.
For more information, please go to www.rv-1.org.
-- Don McNamara
N8RV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: The Original RV-1 Midwest Barnstorming Tour
Date: May 21, 2012
I got to see the plane when it stopped at Dogwood (VA42). We'll worth the t
ime to see if you can - if nothing else than to grasp how far the current Va
n's offerings have evolved.
Carl
On May 21, 2012, at 10:00 AM, N8RV(at)gte.net wrote:
> Richard VanGrunsven's original RV-1 -- yes, the grandaddy of all of our RV
s -- is about to begin its Midwest Barnstorming Tour across the I-80/90 corr
idor. One week from today -- Memorial Day, May 28th -- "The One" will cross
over from Canada and clear customs at Toledo Executive Airport (TDZ) in the
morning.
>
> The Toledo EAA chapter has some events planned for the day (including food
, naturally), and then the RV-1 will continue its cross-country tour with a s
top at the Mishawaka Pilots' Club (3C1) in Elkhart, IN for fuel and an overn
ight stop.
>
> Next on the tour is Marshall County Airport (C75) in Lacon, IL (near Peori
a), then on to Omar Bradley (MBY) in Moberly, MO, on May 29th.
>
> If you'd like to see a very significant piece of RV history -- and indeed,
aviation history -- with your very eyes, please plan to fly/drive/hitchhike
to one of the Barnstorming Tour stops and spend a little time with fellow R
Vers and enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. The RV-1 will end its t
our at the EAA Museum in Oshkosh later this year.
>
> For more information, please go to www.rv-1.org.
>
> -- Don McNamara
> N8RV
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ernie Amadio" <eamadio(at)cogeco.ca>
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
Date: May 23, 2012
I have just experienced an unusual but potentialy dangerous incident
with the filtered air box from Vans.It is instaled on my Starduster Too
with an O-360 Lyc. The instal is as per the instructions and drawings
that came with it including the fiberglass scoop.
On a short XC, at some point, the carb heat hose from the exhaust muff
seperated from the flange on the hot air box, it lay on the top of the
box pointed at the carb body less than 4 inches away, pumping hot air
directly onto the carb.
On landing the engine was cutting out and barley made it off the run way
before quitting. THE ENGINE REFUSED TO RESTART.
On investigation the hose was found seperated as described, and
re-attached. After sitting for an hour with the cowls open into the
wind, it started on the second blade and we were on owr way with no
further problems.
Whether the hose clamp came loose on its own or I had failed to
sufficiently tighten it I don't know ,however, it is now tight and
saftey wired and routinley checked at every preflight.
For your information and consideration.
Ernie Amadio
RV-6 Slow build
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
Date: May 24, 2012
Another potential problem is the air filter wearing through the bottom of
the air box. Over time, the fiberglass will be weakened to the point where
the bottom of the air box falls out. I've had to re-fiberglass this area to
strengthen the air box....
Fred Stucklen
RV-7A N924RV Flying
RV-6A N926RV (Sold after 875 Hrs.)
RV-6A N925RV (Sold after 2008 Hrs.)
From: "Ernie Amadio" <eamadio(at)cogeco.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Vans Filtered air box
I have just experienced an unusual but potentialy dangerous incident with
the filtered air box from Vans.It is instaled on my Starduster Too with an
O-360 Lyc. The instal is as per the instructions and drawings that came with
it including the fiberglass scoop.
On a short XC, at some point, the carb heat hose from the exhaust muff
seperated from the flange on the hot air box, it lay on the top of the box
pointed at the carb body less than 4 inches away, pumping hot air directly
onto the carb.
On landing the engine was cutting out and barley made it off the run way
before quitting. THE ENGINE REFUSED TO RESTART.
On investigation the hose was found seperated as described, and re-attached.
After sitting for an hour with the cowls open into the wind, it started on
the second blade and we were on owr way with no further problems.
Whether the hose clamp came loose on its own or I had failed to sufficiently
tighten it I don't know ,however, it is now tight and saftey wired and
routinley checked at every preflight.
For your information and consideration.
Ernie Amadio
RV-6 Slow build
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
Date: May 24, 2012
I added a piece of .032 aluminum in the bottom of the airbox to solve the wear
problem. The aluminum also makes the alternate air door fitting in the bottom
(fuel injected engines) easier.
The other problem I had with the airbox is two top plates cracked at the mounting
holes, the cracks going all the way to the edge. I fixed this problem by adding
a .025 piece of aluminum angle between the forward most lower air box bolt
and a bolt in the case of the engine. This vertical brace eliminates the airbox
flexing problem.
Carl
On May 24, 2012, at 7:47 AM, "Fred Stucklen" wrote:
>
> Another potential problem is the air filter wearing through the bottom of
> the air box. Over time, the fiberglass will be weakened to the point where
> the bottom of the air box falls out. I've had to re-fiberglass this area to
> strengthen the air box....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-7A N924RV Flying
> RV-6A N926RV (Sold after 875 Hrs.)
> RV-6A N925RV (Sold after 2008 Hrs.)
>
>
> From: "Ernie Amadio" <eamadio(at)cogeco.ca>
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Vans Filtered air box
>
> I have just experienced an unusual but potentialy dangerous incident with
> the filtered air box from Vans.It is instaled on my Starduster Too with an
> O-360 Lyc. The instal is as per the instructions and drawings that came with
> it including the fiberglass scoop.
>
> On a short XC, at some point, the carb heat hose from the exhaust muff
> seperated from the flange on the hot air box, it lay on the top of the box
> pointed at the carb body less than 4 inches away, pumping hot air directly
> onto the carb.
>
> On landing the engine was cutting out and barley made it off the run way
> before quitting. THE ENGINE REFUSED TO RESTART.
>
> On investigation the hose was found seperated as described, and re-attached.
> After sitting for an hour with the cowls open into the wind, it started on
> the second blade and we were on owr way with no further problems.
>
> Whether the hose clamp came loose on its own or I had failed to sufficiently
> tighten it I don't know ,however, it is now tight and saftey wired and
> routinley checked at every preflight.
>
> For your information and consideration.
>
> Ernie Amadio
> RV-6 Slow build
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: May 24, 2012
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
Tom Berge and Doug Weiler report that switching to a cork gasket rather than
a paper one of between the upper plate on the servo/carb helps alleviate the
cracking problem.
Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Thu, May 24, 2012 12:18:44 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Vans Filtered air box
I added a piece of .032 aluminum in the bottom of the airbox to solve the
wear problem. The aluminum also makes the alternate air door fitting in the
bottom (fuel injected engines) easier.
The other problem I had with the airbox is two top plates cracked at the
mounting holes, the cracks going all the way to the edge. I fixed this
problem by adding a .025 piece of aluminum angle between the forward most
lower air box bolt and a bolt in the case of the engine. This vertical
brace eliminates the airbox flexing problem.
Carl
On May 24, 2012, at 7:47 AM, "Fred Stucklen" wrote:
>
> Another potential problem is the air filter wearing through the bottom of
> the air box. Over time, the fiberglass will be weakened to the point
where
> the bottom of the air box falls out. I've had to re-fiberglass this area
to
> strengthen the air box....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-7A N924RV Flying
> RV-6A N926RV (Sold after 875 Hrs.)
> RV-6A N925RV (Sold after 2008 Hrs.)
>
>
> From: "Ernie Amadio" <eamadio(at)cogeco.ca>
> Subject: RV-List: Re:Vans Filtered air box
>
> I have just experienced an unusual but potentialy dangerous incident with
> the filtered air box from Vans.It is instaled on my Starduster Too with an
> O-360 Lyc. The instal is as per the instructions and drawings that came
with
> it including the fiberglass scoop.
>
> On a short XC, at some point, the carb heat hose from the exhaust muff
> seperated from the flange on the hot air box, it lay on the top of the box
> pointed at the carb body less than 4 inches away, pumping hot air directly
> onto the carb.
>
> On landing the engine was cutting out and barley made it off the run way
> before quitting. THE ENGINE REFUSED TO RESTART.
>
> On investigation the hose was found seperated as described, and
re-attached.
> After sitting for an hour with the cowls open into the wind, it started on
> the second blade and we were on owr way with no further problems.
>
> Whether the hose clamp came loose on its own or I had failed to
sufficiently
> tighten it I don't know ,however, it is now tight and saftey wired and
> routinley checked at every preflight.
>
> For your information and consideration.
>
> Ernie Amadio
> RV-6 Slow build
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Date: May 24, 2012
Note: Please excuse the long post. I didn't have time to write a short
one.
The FAB has fascinated me over the past 20 years. It seems to work
really well. It is a "different" design so it has puzzled me at times.
Here are some observations:
First there are different models which behave and wear differently. the
O 320 one is deeper than the O 360 one, and is suspended differently. I
have the O 360 one and have had no cracks? Most folks do get cracks
over time, yet I have 2700+ on mine with none. One observation is that
I added a plate to the bottom of my FAB to alleviate the rapid wear I
was getting between the filter element and the fiberglass bottom. I
speculate that this stiffened up the whole thing plus gave me a better
seal for the filter.
Second observation is that the filters shrink! It seems that after a
few years/hundreds of hours the filter element shrinks in all
directions. I noticed it was no longer snug around the circumference
and did not pull up tight against the top and bottom. My observation is
that perhaps my tight seal for the FAB also reduced flexing and
vibration?
Conclusions I have made:
Always check the FAB and clean/re-oil the filter each 100 hours.
Inspect it carefully for cracks and looseness.
Put a plate in the bottom (O-360 model)
Replace the filter when it gets loose.
The bonus for this attention is cleaner air for your Lycoming. I am a
superstitious fellow and think it is one of the most important factors
if you want long engine life. I don't know that for sure. I am a
novice at this, having only owned one Lycoming in my life, but it seems
logical to me. As a footnote I should mention that on the first
occasion of finding a loose filter I noted an increase in silicone on my
oil analysis.
Denis Walsh
denis.walsh(at)comcast.net
On 24May, 2012, at 6:39 , bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Tom Berge and Doug Weiler report that switching to a cork gasket
rather than a paper one of between the upper plate on the servo/carb
helps alleviate the cracking problem.
>
> Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless
>
>
> -----Original message-----
> From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
> Sent: Thu, May 24, 2012 12:18:44 GMT+00:00
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Vans Filtered air box
>
>
> I added a piece of .032 aluminum in the bottom of the airbox to solve
the wear problem. The aluminum also makes the alternate air door fitting
in the bottom (fuel injected engines) easier.
>
> The other problem I had with the airbox is two top plates cracked at
the mounting holes, the cracks going all the way to the edge. I fixed
this problem by adding a .025 piece of aluminum angle between the
forward most lower air box bolt and a bolt in the case of the engine.
This vertical brace eliminates the airbox flexing problem.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
> On May 24, 2012, at 7:47 AM, "Fred Stucklen" wrote:
>
> >
> > Another potential problem is the air filter wearing through the
bottom of
> > the air box. Over time, the fiberglass will be weakened to the point
where
> > the bottom of the air box falls out. I've had to re-fiberglass this
area to
> > strengthen the air box....
> >
> > Fred Stucklen
> > RV-7A N924RV Flying
> > RV-6A N926RV (Sold after 875 Hrs.)
> > RV-6A N925RV (Sold after 2008 Hrs.)
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
Date: May 24, 2012
I forgot to mention the shrinking filter issue. Over 10 years with the 8A I
found the filter goes from an oval cylinder to an oval cone (the bottom bec
oming the smaller end of the cone). I suspect the clamping action is the is
sue. On the RV-10 I added four small pieces of aluminum (90 degree bend) to
the bottom plate that fit the filter inside diameter. Hopefully this will h
elp the filter keep it's shape a little longer.
For the RV-10 I also put in a larger filter. If you invert the plate so tha
t the flange goes over the edge of the fiberglass it fits the taller K&N fil
ter (model E-100 I think but not sure).
Carl
On May 24, 2012, at 9:12 AM, Denis Walsh wrote:
> Note: Please excuse the long post. I didn't have time to write a short o
ne.
>
>
> The FAB has fascinated me over the past 20 years. It seems to work really
well. It is a "different" design so it has puzzled me at times. Here are
some observations:
>
> First there are different models which behave and wear differently. the O
320 one is deeper than the O 360 one, and is suspended differently. I have
the O 360 one and have had no cracks? Most folks do get cracks over time, y
et I have 2700+ on mine with none. One observation is that I added a plate t
o the bottom of my FAB to alleviate the rapid wear I was getting between the
filter element and the fiberglass bottom. I speculate that this stiffened u
p the whole thing plus gave me a better seal for the filter.
>
> Second observation is that the filters shrink! It seems that after a few y
ears/hundreds of hours the filter element shrinks in all directions. I noti
ced it was no longer snug around the circumference and did not pull up tight
against the top and bottom. My observation is that perhaps my tight seal f
or the FAB also reduced flexing and vibration?
>
> Conclusions I have made:
>
> Always check the FAB and clean/re-oil the filter each 100 hours. Inspect i
t carefully for cracks and looseness.
>
> Put a plate in the bottom (O-360 model)
>
> Replace the filter when it gets loose.
>
> The bonus for this attention is cleaner air for your Lycoming. I am a sup
erstitious fellow and think it is one of the most important factors if you w
ant long engine life. I don't know that for sure. I am a novice at this, h
aving only owned one Lycoming in my life, but it seems logical to me. As a
footnote I should mention that on the first occasion of finding a loose fil
ter I noted an increase in silicone on my oil analysis.
>
>
>
> Denis Walsh
> denis.walsh(at)comcast.net
>
>
>
> On 24May, 2012, at 6:39 , bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Tom Berge and Doug Weiler report that switching to a cork gasket rather t
han a paper one of between the upper plate on the servo/carb helps alleviate
the cracking problem.
>>
>> Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless
>>
>>
>> -----Original message-----
>> From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
>> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>> Sent: Thu, May 24, 2012 12:18:44 GMT+00:00
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Vans Filtered air box
>>
>>
>> I added a piece of .032 aluminum in the bottom of the airbox to solve the
wear problem. The aluminum also makes the alternate air door fitting in the
bottom (fuel injected engines) easier.
>>
>> The other problem I had with the airbox is two top plates cracked at the m
ounting holes, the cracks going all the way to the edge. I fixed this proble
m by adding a .025 piece of aluminum angle between the forward most lower ai
r box bolt and a bolt in the case of the engine. This vertical brace elimina
tes the airbox flexing problem.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>> On May 24, 2012, at 7:47 AM, "Fred Stucklen" wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Another potential problem is the air filter wearing through the bottom o
f
>> > the air box. Over time, the fiberglass will be weakened to the point wh
ere
>> > the bottom of the air box falls out. I've had to re-fiberglass this are
a to
>> > strengthen the air box....
>> >
>> > Fred Stucklen
>> > RV-7A N924RV Flying
>> > RV-6A N926RV (Sold after 875 Hrs.)
>> > RV-6A N925RV (Sold after 2008 Hrs.)
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Date: May 24, 2012
Where do think the silicone is coming from...do you have some RTV sealant in
or around the airbox that is coming loose and and being ingested?
Dale Ensing
Sent from my iPad
On May 24, 2012, at 9:12 AM, Denis Walsh wrote:
> Note: Please excuse the long post. I didn't have time to write a short o
ne.
>
>
> The FAB has fascinated me over the past 20 years. It seems to work really
well. It is a "different" design so it has puzzled me at times. Here are
some observations:
>
> First there are different models which behave and wear differently. the O
320 one is deeper than the O 360 one, and is suspended differently. I have
the O 360 one and have had no cracks? Most folks do get cracks over time, y
et I have 2700+ on mine with none. One observation is that I added a plate t
o the bottom of my FAB to alleviate the rapid wear I was getting between the
filter element and the fiberglass bottom. I speculate that this stiffened u
p the whole thing plus gave me a better seal for the filter.
>
> Second observation is that the filters shrink! It seems that after a few y
ears/hundreds of hours the filter element shrinks in all directions. I noti
ced it was no longer snug around the circumference and did not pull up tight
against the top and bottom. My observation is that perhaps my tight seal f
or the FAB also reduced flexing and vibration?
>
> Conclusions I have made:
>
> Always check the FAB and clean/re-oil the filter each 100 hours. Inspect i
t carefully for cracks and looseness.
>
> Put a plate in the bottom (O-360 model)
>
> Replace the filter when it gets loose.
>
> The bonus for this attention is cleaner air for your Lycoming. I am a sup
erstitious fellow and think it is one of the most important factors if you w
ant long engine life. I don't know that for sure. I am a novice at this, h
aving only owned one Lycoming in my life, but it seems logical to me. As a
footnote I should mention that on the first occasion of finding a loose fil
ter I noted an increase in silicone on my oil analysis.
>
>
>
> Denis Walsh
> denis.walsh(at)comcast.net
>
>
>
> On 24May, 2012, at 6:39 , bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Tom Berge and Doug Weiler report that switching to a cork gasket rather t
han a paper one of between the upper plate on the servo/carb helps alleviate
the cracking problem.
>>
>> Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless
>>
>>
>> -----Original message-----
>> From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
>> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>> Sent: Thu, May 24, 2012 12:18:44 GMT+00:00
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Vans Filtered air box
>>
>>
>> I added a piece of .032 aluminum in the bottom of the airbox to solve the
wear problem. The aluminum also makes the alternate air door fitting in the
bottom (fuel injected engines) easier.
>>
>> The other problem I had with the airbox is two top plates cracked at the m
ounting holes, the cracks going all the way to the edge. I fixed this proble
m by adding a .025 piece of aluminum angle between the forward most lower ai
r box bolt and a bolt in the case of the engine. This vertical brace elimina
tes the airbox flexing problem.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>> On May 24, 2012, at 7:47 AM, "Fred Stucklen" wrote:
>>
>> >
>> > Another potential problem is the air filter wearing through the bottom o
f
>> > the air box. Over time, the fiberglass will be weakened to the point wh
ere
>> > the bottom of the air box falls out. I've had to re-fiberglass this are
a to
>> > strengthen the air box....
>> >
>> > Fred Stucklen
>> > RV-7A N924RV Flying
>> > RV-6A N926RV (Sold after 875 Hrs.)
>> > RV-6A N925RV (Sold after 2008 Hrs.)
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
Date: May 24, 2012
From: "George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ" <Neal.George(at)hurlburt.af.mil>
I suspect that was a typo.
Silica is one of the elements reported in oil analysis. Silica accompanied by
elevated wear metals can be an indicator of induction system issues - poor or
inadequate filtration, induction leaks, contamination.
neal
-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Dale Ensing
Where do think the silicone is coming from...do you have some RTV sealant in or
around the airbox that is coming loose and and being ingested?
Dale Ensing
On May 24, 2012, at 9:12 AM, Denis Walsh wrote:
As a footnote I should mention that on the first occasion of finding a loose filter
I noted an increase in silicone on my oil analysis.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re:Vans Filtered air box
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Date: May 24, 2012
I suspect it was a brain spasm of some sort! Thank you for the kind diagnosis.
Neal is correct, I was wrong.
Whatever the right name for the substance is: it is lab speak for "dirt", thus
it is an indicator of a leak or failure in your air filtration system, which
Capt George described very well below. In my case there were no other elevated
readings, so I was able to replace the filter quickly and have noted no signs
of undue wear in the engine.
It is still showing good analysis, some years after that first loose filter, with
good differential press check, etc, at 2,750 hrs(Tach). I feel pretty good
about that and would like to think it is because I take such good care of it.
It is more likely because I have always run it hard and frequently.
Denis Walsh (USAF, ret)
denis.walsh(at)comcast.net
On 24May, 2012, at 1:05 , George, Neal Capt 505 TRS/DOJ wrote:
>
> I suspect that was a typo.
>
> Silica is one of the elements reported in oil analysis. Silica accompanied by
elevated wear metals can be an indicator of induction system issues - poor or
inadequate filtration, induction leaks, contamination.
>
> neal
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 30, 2012
Subject: "Found it"
From: MLE <rv6awingman(at)gmail.com>
Joe,
Thanks for posting this. I've a 496 in my RV-6A that has always given me a
periodic hiss in my headset and while I posted a note about it a couple
years back no one seemed to have similar issues. I'll have to try this fix
and see what happens. I might try shutting off the weather antenna first
and see what impact that has on the headset noise. I have the forest of
tabs firewall ground that everything in my panel connects to so a ground
loop shouldn't be the issue.
Marty
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Found it!
From: "user9253" <fran4sew(at)banyanol.com>
Dan B,
The avionics package for my RV-12 came with a ground loop isolator that is
connected
in series with the Garmin 496 audio output. The instructions say to use
the isolator if XM weather option is installed. I found a similar looking
device
on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLATOR-3-5-APPLICATIONS/dp/B001EAQTRI
Perhaps this is the same device that you found.
Joe
--------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: New engraving product line
From: Steve T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Date: May 30, 2012
We are excited to announce the newest in our product lineup. We now offer d
ata plate and fuel cap engraving.
http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/engraving.html
We have aimed to make our site extremely easy to use. Please feel free to t
ake a look at our engraving options. In addition to extremely competitive p
ricing, we have an interactive application that makes it easy to select your
engraving style and your text and order your engraving right from the comfo
rt of your computer.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me atsteve@aircraftsp
ecialty.com
Please keep watching as we continue to update our product lineup.
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2012
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: First Saturday Fly-Ins at KEHR, Henderson, KY
Our EAA 21 Club Fly-Ins now include Saturday Matinee at the Movies.
This month watch "Strategic Air Command" at 1:00 pm, with free popcorn,
in the air-conditioned FBO conference room
We will be preparing Hamburgers, Brats and NATHANS FAMOUS Hot Dogs for
all that fly in.
Just as New York's 21 Club has become known as the HAPPENING PLACE to be
and be seen, EAA 21 Club is the place to be on the first Saturday of
each month.
When: June 2, July 7, August 4, September 1, October 6, 2012
10:00 AM till 2:00 PM Central time.
Where: Henderson Kentucky City-County Airport (KEHR)
If KEHR is VFR then we will be cooking the best Gourmet Burgers,
Brats and Dogs this side of Sporty's.
EAA 21 Club is expanding. Watch for the announcement about our new
Third Saturday Fly-Ins at EVV
Be sure to stop by our web site for information about Evansville's World
Class Air Show June 9th and 10th, 2012
http://www.eaa21.org
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 31, 2012
From: George Inman <ghinman(at)mts.net>
Subject: Van's Rudder - Brake Pedals
Has anyone had problems with Van's break/rudder pedals?
They are too narrow for some of the shoes I wear,and
mine are size 10.I don't know how the guys with size 12 make out.
Trying to land a tail-dragger on pavement in a X-wind
is no time to have problems applying brake!!
--
George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net
204 287 8334
204 799 7062
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Van's Rudder - Brake Pedals
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Jun 01, 2012
My rudder pedals are each 5" wide - I am staggered your shoes could be wider than
that.
Perhaps your airplane is non standard.
Doug
On 01/06/2012, at 3:41 AM, George Inman wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone had problems with Van's break/rudder pedals?
> They are too narrow for some of the shoes I wear,and
> mine are size 10.I don't know how the guys with size 12 make out.
> Trying to land a tail-dragger on pavement in a X-wind
> is no time to have problems applying brake!!
>
> --
> George H. Inman
> ghinman(at)mts.net
> 204 287 8334
> 204 799 7062
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 04, 2012
Subject: Re: N614EF
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQpfLT3CoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqAgLSBUaGUgUlYt
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PT09PT09Cl8tPcKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoCAtIExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdl
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cy5jb20vY29udHJpYnV0aW9uCl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09CgoKCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Shirley Harding" <rv6vhasf(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: N614EF
Date: Jun 04, 2012
Congratulations Bob - it was worth the wait, wasn't it!
Shirley
RV6 flying
RV 12 about half done
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: N614EF
Date: Jun 04, 2012
Bob=2C
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (Sold)
> Date: Sun=2C 3 Jun 2012 21:36:09 -0500
> Subject: RV-List: N614EF
>
> Almost 11 years after I started on it=2C and 10 days shy of the 70th
> anniversary of the wedding date for which it's named=2C N614EF flew today
=2C
> thanks to Tom Berge.
>
> Regards=2C
>
> Bob Collins
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can perform
the tests.
Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make the logbook
entry.
Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have already
built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and verified the altitude
goung to the transponder is correct.
Thoughts please,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: Avionics-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static
certifications
A common misconception. Yes you built your aircraft. That does not make
you a "manufacturer" in the terms of these regulations.
You need the transponder certified by someone with a repair station
license. There is no certification of the pitot system, only the static
system. The only reason the pitot is connected to the test is to protect
your airspeed indicator from an excessive pressure difference with the
static port.
You can leak test your static system if you ever need to open it between
the required certifications, and that is legal, but the certification
must be done by an appropriately rated repair station.
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
On 6/8/2012 6:46 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> --> Avionics-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>
> In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can perform
the tests.
>
> Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make the
logbook entry.
>
> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have already
built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and verified the
altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>
> Thoughts please,
> Ralph
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Date: Jun 08, 2012
Negative.
You must use a certified repair station. Only a Manufacturer that has been
approved as a Production Facility by the FAA will be able to do their own
transponder check if they were authorized by the FAA to do it. Did you bui
ld a TC (Type Certificated) aircraft in a facility approved to build in acc
ordance with the design approved in the TC by the FAA?
Manufacturer on your Registration (8050-3) may have your name but it only m
eans that you are the builder.
Note on your Special Airworthiness Certificate (8130-7)=2C Manufacturer is
listed as N/A.
Gary A. Sobek
A&P / DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C780+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA
> Date: Fri=2C 8 Jun 2012 09:46:52 -0400
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com=3B rv-list(at)matronics.com=3B aeroelectric-
list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>
>
> In reading 91.411 and 91.413=2C it says the manufacturer of the airplane
can perform the tests.
>
> Since I built my 6A=2C I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and mak
e the logbook entry.
>
> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have al
ready built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and verif
ied the altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>
> Thoughts please=2C
> Ralph
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Avionics-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Thanks - I figured there would be some weasel-wording in there.
Since I have already done most of the tests, I have a high confidence level in
taking it to a 'certified' shop.
Good scoop!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>Sent: Jun 8, 2012 10:22 AM
>To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Avionics-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>
>--> Avionics-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
>
>A common misconception. Yes you built your aircraft. That does not make
>you a "manufacturer" in the terms of these regulations.
>You need the transponder certified by someone with a repair station
>license. There is no certification of the pitot system, only the static
>system. The only reason the pitot is connected to the test is to protect
>your airspeed indicator from an excessive pressure difference with the
>static port.
>You can leak test your static system if you ever need to open it between
>the required certifications, and that is legal, but the certification
>must be done by an appropriately rated repair station.
>Kelly McMullen
>A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
>
>On 6/8/2012 6:46 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>> --> Avionics-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>>
>> In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can perform
the tests.
>>
>> Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make the
logbook entry.
>>
>> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have already
built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and verified the
altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>>
>> Thoughts please,
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>-----
>No virus found in this message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Thanks Gary!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: RV6 Flyer
>Sent: Jun 8, 2012 10:42 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>
>
>Negative.
>
>You must use a certified repair station. Only a Manufacturer that has been approved
as a Production Facility by the FAA will be able to do their own transponder
check if they were authorized by the FAA to do it. Did you build a TC (Type
Certificated) aircraft in a facility approved to build in accordance with the
design approved in the TC by the FAA?
>
>Manufacturer on your Registration (8050-3) may have your name but it only means
that you are the builder.
>
>Note on your Special Airworthiness Certificate (8130-7), Manufacturer is listed
as N/A.
>
>Gary A. Sobek
>A&P / DAR
>"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>2,780+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>
>
>> Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2012 09:46:52 -0400
>> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
>> To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com; aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>>
>>
>> In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can perform
the tests.
>>
>> Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make the
logbook entry.
>>
>> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have already
built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and verified the
altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>>
>> Thoughts =======================
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Date: Jun 08, 2012
Gary is correct in the fact that unless you have a TC, you are not a "Mfgr"
in the eyes of the FAA.
Not only that, but your "test equipment" must be calibrated to certain
approved standards and be certified as currently in calibration. It's also
not as simple as verifying the codes and altitude readout in the
transponder. You have to test the output frequency and a +/- range
variation (+/- 3mHz), the suppression system, receiver sensitivity, peak
output power, altitude readout, codes, etc.. If it's a Mode S, you have to
add in the Diversity test, the reply address, uplink formats, all call,
squitter output for ES, and more.
It typically only costs $75-$125 to have it done the right way (and only
about 15 minutes of time), so no reason to be pennywise on this particular
part of the plane.
Just my 2 cents as usual,
Stein
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Negative.
You must use a certified repair station. Only a Manufacturer that has been
approved as a Production Facility by the FAA will be able to do their own
transponder check if they were authorized by the FAA to do it. Did you
build a TC (Type Certificated) aircraft in a facility approved to build in
accordance with the design approved in the TC by the FAA?
Manufacturer on your Registration (8050-3) may have your name but it only
means that you are the builder.
Note on your Special Airworthiness Certificate (8130-7), Manufacturer is
listed as N/A.
Gary A. Sobek
A&P / DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,780+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2012 09:46:52 -0400
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>
>
> In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can
perform the tests.
>
> Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make
the logbook entry.
>
> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have
already built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and
verified the altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>
> Thoughts =======================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jun 08, 2012
Excellent input, Stein! You are a valuable asset to this list.
I would like to add another non-technical, non regulatory view:
I have never witnessed or even heard of anyone being cited for not
having a transponder check by the FAA. I have never seen it asked for
on an Airworthiness inspection. I could say the same for the ELT and
for several other critical things.
So if you are looking for something to "get away with", this is a good
candidate.
I, like Stein, consider it penny wise to skip this check. I add further
that it is stupid and unsafe. In today's flying environment both FAA
controllers and many many of our fellow aviators rely immensely on the
transponder output to keep traffic separated!!
So wake up guys!! Even though you only see a blinking light once in a
while, the accurate operation of your transponder is critical to your
safety and to all those with in collision distance.
Denis Walsh
denis.walsh(at)comcast.net
On 8Jun, 2012, at 9:57 , Stein Bruch wrote:
> Gary is correct in the fact that unless you have a TC, you are not a
=93Mfgr=94 in the eyes of the FAA.
>
> Not only that, but your =93test equipment=94 must be calibrated to
certain approved standards and be certified as currently in calibration.
It=92s also not as simple as verifying the codes and altitude readout
in the transponder. You have to test the output frequency and a +/-
range variation (+/- 3mHz), the suppression system, receiver
sensitivity, peak output power, altitude readout, codes, etc.. If it=92s
a Mode S, you have to add in the Diversity test, the reply address,
uplink formats, all call, squitter output for ES, and more.
>
> It typically only costs $75-$125 to have it done the right way (and
only about 15 minutes of time), so no reason to be pennywise on this
particular part of the plane.
>
> Just my 2 cents as usual,
>
> Stein
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Date: Jun 08, 2012
I wish it was $75-$125. I just shelled out $650 for two planes and they
both passed right off the bat.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Gary is correct in the fact that unless you have a TC, you are not a "Mfgr"
in the eyes of the FAA.
Not only that, but your "test equipment" must be calibrated to certain
approved standards and be certified as currently in calibration. It's also
not as simple as verifying the codes and altitude readout in the
transponder. You have to test the output frequency and a +/- range
variation (+/- 3mHz), the suppression system, receiver sensitivity, peak
output power, altitude readout, codes, etc.. If it's a Mode S, you have to
add in the Diversity test, the reply address, uplink formats, all call,
squitter output for ES, and more.
It typically only costs $75-$125 to have it done the right way (and only
about 15 minutes of time), so no reason to be pennywise on this particular
part of the plane.
Just my 2 cents as usual,
Stein
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Negative.
You must use a certified repair station. Only a Manufacturer that has been
approved as a Production Facility by the FAA will be able to do their own
transponder check if they were authorized by the FAA to do it. Did you
build a TC (Type Certificated) aircraft in a facility approved to build in
accordance with the design approved in the TC by the FAA?
Manufacturer on your Registration (8050-3) may have your name but it only
means that you are the builder.
Note on your Special Airworthiness Certificate (8130-7), Manufacturer is
listed as N/A.
Gary A. Sobek
A&P / DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,780+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2012 09:46:52 -0400
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com;
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>
>
> In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane can
perform the tests.
>
> Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and make
the logbook entry.
>
> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have
already built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and
verified the altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>
> Thoughts =======================
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bigdog(at)bentwing.com" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Date: Jun 08, 2012
I heard prices around here of $275-$350. On further checking I found that's
for an IFR certification. The VFR check is ~$90. I think the big differenc
e is for the altimeter check.
Regards,
Greg Young
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 2:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
I wish it was $75-$125. I just shelled out $650 for two planes and they bo
th passed right off the bat.
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com>
Date: Jun 08, 2012
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
I had the transponder in my experimental checked last fall... We wait
to get several other planes needing an inspection done and schedule the
mobile avionics guy from Idaho Falls to travel over and do them all in o
ne day.. Transponder check was 95.00. Static Pitot test was 30.00...
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certification
s
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2012 15:30:18 -0400
I wish it was $75-$125. I just shelled out $650 for two planes and they
both passed right off the bat.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 11:58 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certification
s
Gary is correct in the fact that unless you have a TC, you are not a =93
Mfgr=94 in the eyes of the FAA.
Not only that, but your =93test equipment=94 must be calibrated to certa
in approved standards and be certified as currently in calibration. It=92
s also not as simple as verifying the codes and altitude readout in the
transponder. You have to test the output frequency and a +/- range vari
ation (+/- 3mHz), the suppression system, receiver sensitivity, peak out
put power, altitude readout, codes, etc.. If it=92s a Mode S, you have
to add in the Diversity test, the reply address, uplink formats, all cal
l, squitter output for ES, and more.
It typically only costs $75-$125 to have it done the right way (and only
about 15 minutes of time), so no reason to be pennywise on this particu
lar part of the plane.
Just my 2 cents as usual,
Stein
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@ma
tronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certification
s
Negative.
You must use a certified repair station. Only a Manufacturer that has b
een approved as a Production Facility by the FAA will be able to do thei
r own transponder check if they were authorized by the FAA to do it. Di
d you build a TC (Type Certificated) aircraft in a facility approved to
build in accordance with the design approved in the TC by the FAA?
Manufacturer on your Registration (8050-3) may have your name but it onl
y means that you are the builder.
Note on your Special Airworthiness Certificate (8130-7), Manufacturer is
listed as N/A.
Gary A. Sobek
A&P / DAR
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,780+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2012 09:46:52 -0400
> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net
> To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com; aeroelectric-l
ist(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
>
>
>
> In reading 91.411 and 91.413, it says the manufacturer of the airplane
can perform the tests.
>
> Since I built my 6A, I'm thinking that I cando the tests myself and ma
ke the logbook entry.
>
> Testing the transponder codes might be the difficult part - but I have
already built the test equipment and tested the Pitot-static system and
verified the altitude goung to the transponder is correct.
>
> Thoughts =====================
==
>
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.co
m http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contrib
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
========================
=======
____________________________________________________________
53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3241/4fd25fbaa1d10a51dfst05vuc
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Jun 08, 2012
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Date: Jun 08, 2012
Good point - I had IFR checks done.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bigdog(at)bentwing.com
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 4:18 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
I heard prices around here of $275-$350. On further checking I found that's
for an IFR certification. The VFR check is ~$90. I think the big difference
is for the altimeter check.
Regards,
Greg Young
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 2:30 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
I wish it was $75-$125. I just shelled out $650 for two planes and they
both passed right off the bat.
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 08, 2012
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Are you saying that they require you to produce your logbooks?
Ed
On 6/8/2012 1:50 PM, RV6 Flyer wrote:
> IF you have a card for formation flight and are flying in wavered
> airspace at an airshow, you will be checked for transponder and ELT
> Checks. ELT check should be logged. Check 91.207(d) for what needs
> checked and recorded for you ELT.
>
> Gary
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 8, 2012, at 12:26 PM, "Denis Walsh" > wrote:
>
>> Excellent input, Stein! You are a valuable asset to this list.
>>
>> I would like to add another non-technical, non regulatory view:
>>
>> I have never witnessed or even heard of anyone being cited for not
>> having a transponder check by the FAA. I have never seen it asked
>> for on an Airworthiness inspection. I could say the same for the ELT
>> and for several other critical things.
>>
>> So if you are looking for something to "get away with", this is a
>> good candidate.
>>
>> I, like Stein, consider it penny wise to skip this check. I add
>> further that it is stupid and unsafe. In today's flying environment
>> both FAA controllers and many many of our fellow aviators rely
>> immensely on the transponder output to keep traffic separated!!
>>
>> So wake up guys!! Even though you only see a blinking light once in a
>> while, the accurate operation of your transponder is critical to your
>> safety and to all those with in collision distance.
>>
>>
>> Denis Walsh
>> denis.walsh(at)comcast.net
>>
>>
>>
>> On 8Jun, 2012, at 9:57 , Stein Bruch wrote:
>>
>>> Gary is correct in the fact that unless you have a TC, you are not a
>>> Mfgr in the eyes of the FAA.
>>> Not only that, but your test equipment must be calibrated to
>>> certain approved standards and be certified as currently in
>>> calibration. Its also not as simple as verifying the codes and
>>> altitude readout in the transponder. You have to test the output
>>> frequency and a +/- range variation (+/- 3mHz), the suppression
>>> system, receiver sensitivity, peak output power, altitude readout,
>>> codes, etc.. If its a Mode S, you have to add in the Diversity
>>> test, the reply address, uplink formats, all call, squitter output
>>> for ES, and more.
>>> It typically only costs $75-$125 to have it done the right way (and
>>> only about 15 minutes of time), so no reason to be pennywise on this
>>> particular part of the plane.
>>> Just my 2 cents as usual,
>>> Stein
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
> ~,gM4Gqz.'8ER&j)EK j',.+-
> 5h,x
zfb+bz.r.+-R*m
> !y:0ZwEhy!!i0fr(Z(Tm
> 'ojj+ERM $NEC&z
> j(lVj^Yfr(mfr(*'gJ+^8L+i1m)j|-&j',rr&*'i0fr((nb{nrfl==
________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Date: Jun 09, 2012
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Jun 09, 2012
I don't know that it's worth "trying to get away with" anything these days, a
nd having a transponder be INOP in any way could cause you many headaches. A
s you probably already heard, the FAA is now on both our backs and ATC's too
, to report all infractions even minor. They're even being heavy handed to a
degree. You miss some radio calls while flying under ATC control, you're b
usted, your Mode C stops working, you're busted. You drift on assigned alti
tude a little and now they aren't ALLOWED to give you the leeway and just ch
ew you out and grumble until you move out of their sector...or say "say alti
tude" as a clue. These days, if you're flying in the system or controlling i
t, you're being watched and if you mess up even a little you may have some r
eal 'splainin' to do and it can cost you hassles or suspensions. So I guess
I'd rather get the check and KNoW my transponder and altimeter pass. I'll t
ag below my post, two from the Lancair list recently. They had a couple of i
nteresting incidents that showed the new kinder FAA's attitude.
see below, Tim
Wish I were dealing with such a compassionate FAA office. I've been communi
cating for 4 weeks with ORL FAA regarding a lost comm episode in my 360. I w
as IFR and lost comm (IFR flight, maintained clearance, route, altitude, etc
.). When I realized the radio had gone quiet I started calling for radio ch
ecks and using comm 2. Consulted charts, reached the next controller (on Co
mm 1) and resumed normal flight (ending with instrument approach into my hom
e airport).
FAA is all worked up because of 23 minutes of lost comm. I recognize it's n
ot a short amount of time, but they are indicating they will take administra
tive action. I'm frustrated because I feel like I did everything right. 23
minutes of lost comm was probably 15 to 18 minutes of silence before I star
ted trying radio checks and consulting the charts.
The next week I flew the same route and timed every gap of "silence". It wa
s the Sunday that Sun-N-Fun let out and I still had 13 minutes of silence wi
th one controller (this was in FL). But the ORL FAA inspector is very worke
d up that my lost comm was over 20 minutes So BEWARE and make sure
your radios have good reception!
And I'm still not sure why I lost comm. The reception has never been great i
n my little bird (internal antennas), but the only reasonable explanation is
that my wife, who often uses the volume control on the headset cord so she c
an take a little cat-nap, accidentally adjusted my volume to zero, then adju
sted it back up after we were out of ATC's transmitter range. She could hav
e confused the two controls (they both are tucked into the center armrest).
So beware of the possible risks. The FAA may or may not be compassionate.
Matt
From: <bronnenmeier(at)GROBSYSTEMS.COM>Reply-To: Lancair List <lml@lancaironlin
e.net>Date: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 9:52 AMTo: Lancair List
Subject: [LML] ensure your transponder works
Dear subscribers
Last week I flew from my home airport in Ohio to the Linden Airport
(KLDJ - about 10 miles south of Newark). I flew into this airport IFR
before and I recall the controller asking me if I could finish my flight
VFR because of all the traffic in this area. This time I decided not to
bother anybody and go VFR from the start since the weather was fine.
I had a Garmin 320 transponder and the amber light was happily flashing
all the way to New York. What I did not know was that the transponder
failed and was not sending out a signal....
When I landed the airport stuff came up immediately and told me to call
NY FAA. They filed then a Mode C violation and told me not to move the
plane without permission.
After I hung up with them I got a call from our front desk at my home
airport. Homeland security called them while I was still in the air and
asked about this airplane that departed from this airport. Fortunately
the girl knew me and gave them the right answers. I got a weather
briefing before I left. I don't know if this helped. I haven't heard
from Homeland Security so far...
When I wanted to move the 4P away from the fuel pump my starter died. I
had to stay the night and order a new starter overnight. The folks from
the Linden airport let me use their hangar because of my emergency
situation for free. Tom Madden from AOG aircraft services helped me with
ordering the starter, flew my transponder to another airport for bench
check, found me a used Garmin 327 transponder replacement, worked with
me on the installation of the starter, let me use all his tools and
charged me in the end 600$ !!! - what a positive experience in this
whole mess!!
After explaining the FAA that the old transponder failed and I had a
replacement in place I got permission to leave Linden the next day. The
new transponder works and everybody can see me again. The FAA indicated
that since I have a work order for testing the old transponder (Tom
Madden's recommendation) they will drop my charges.
I would have never guessed that you can get yourself in so much trouble
by just flying VFR.....
Ralf
On Jun 8, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Denis Walsh wrote:
> Excellent input, Stein! You are a valuable asset to this list.
>
> I would like to add another non-technical, non regulatory view:
>
> I have never witnessed or even heard of anyone being cited for not having a
transponder check by the FAA. I have never seen it asked for on an Airwort
hiness inspection. I could say the same for the ELT and for several other c
ritical things.
>
> So if you are looking for something to "get away with", this is a good can
didate.
>
> I, like Stein, consider it penny wise to skip this check. I add further t
hat it is stupid and unsafe. In today's flying environment both FAA control
lers and many many of our fellow aviators rely immensely on the transponder o
utput to keep traffic separated!!
>
> So wake up guys!! Even though you only see a blinking light once in a whil
e, the accurate operation of your transponder is critical to your safety and
to all those with in collision distance.
>
>
> Denis Walsh
> denis.walsh(at)comcast.net
>
>
>
> On 8Jun, 2012, at 9:57 , Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>> Gary is correct in the fact that unless you have a TC, you are not a
=9CMfgr=9D in the eyes of the FAA.
>>
>> Not only that, but your =9Ctest equipment=9D must be calibrat
ed to certain approved standards and be certified as currently in calibratio
n. It=99s also not as simple as verifying the codes and altitude read
out in the transponder. You have to test the output frequency and a +/- ran
ge variation (+/- 3mHz), the suppression system, receiver sensitivity, peak o
utput power, altitude readout, codes, etc.. If it=99s a Mode S, you h
ave to add in the Diversity test, the reply address, uplink formats, all cal
l, squitter output for ES, and more.
>>
>> It typically only costs $75-$125 to have it done the right way (and only a
bout 15 minutes of time), so no reason to be pennywise on this particular pa
rt of the plane.
>>
>> Just my 2 cents as usual,
>>
>> Stein
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 09, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Bi-ennial transponder/encoder/static certifications
Even with the proper checks, transponders seem to be a source of no end
of grief. Flew a trip last fall, all VFR, but went through SLC Class B
with clearance, after they had much trouble getting correct code to
display. (apparently it was showing with 1200 code instead of assigned
code). So on my way back I first called SLC center and they had no
problem with my transponder. On hand off to SLC approach they had same
issue as before. I learned they have a brand new radar installation,
which may explain why it saw something different from the Center's long
range radar. As soon as I got home, had transponder checked. (yes it was
in its first year after a certification). Sure enough, some portion of
the transponder had drifted a little out of alignment, got it fixed and
recertified. (and filed the work order in case I got any inquiry).
I know our local FAAST Team is bracing for a bunch of referrals to deal
with minor infractions. I can't see ATC or FSDO living with this policy
too long, because of the increased workload.
On 6/9/2012 6:22 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
> I don't know that it's worth "trying to get away with" anything these
> days, and having a transponder be INOP in any way could cause you many
> headaches. As you probably already heard, the FAA is now on both our
> backs and ATC's too, to report all infractions even minor. They're
> even being heavy handed to a degree. You miss some radio calls while
> flying under ATC control, you're busted, your Mode C stops working,
> you're busted. You drift on assigned altitude a little and now they
> aren't ALLOWED to give you the leeway and just chew you out and
> grumble until you move out of their sector...or say "say altitude" as
> a clue. These days, if you're flying in the system or controlling it,
> you're being watched and if you mess up even a little you may have
> some real 'splainin' to do and it can cost you hassles or suspensions.
> So I guess I'd rather get the check and KNoW my transponder and
> altimeter pass. I'll tag below my post, two from the Lancair list
> recently. They had a couple of interesting incidents that showed the
> new kinder FAA's attitude.
>
> see below, Tim
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Parts for sale
Date: Jun 11, 2012
All,
Cleaning off the shelf now that the plane is flying. A few things I'd like
to sell:
1. Niagara 20006A oil cooler (Van's part #EA OIL COOLER 20006A). New
in the box from Van's, still in bubble wrap. Van's price $393.50. My price
$300 plus shipping.
2. Throttle/Mixture cable bracket (Van's part # VA-182-PC KIT). New in
the bag. Van's price $23.50, my price $18 plus shipping.
3. Throttle cable (Van's part # CT BLK THROTTLE 47.5), Fitted once but
then removed. Van's price $62.50, my price $45 plus shipping.
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
Subject: rough running during taxi after landing
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
This is a question for all of you who have AirFlow Performance fuel
injection, as I do on mt RV-6A. When I start up and taxi around prior to
take off, I have no problem, even in warm Arizona weather. However, after
I've been flying and return to land, taxiing is a problem. The engine runs
very unevenly and almost stops completely some times.
The guys at AFP, and I think they are right, say it is fuel vaporizing in
the skinny stainless steel lines that go from the spider to the injector
nozzles. "These planes do that." I notice on a warm day when I hit the
brakes to slow down for a turn, it always gets worse, as though the slight
decrease in air moving through the cowl aggravates the vaporization.
Turning on the boost pump has no effect.
I should mention that I have a fiberglass cooling plenum which means there
is a bit less enclosed volume over the engine than there would be if I'd
use the stock baffling scheme that has the airseal fabric pressing against
the top of the cowl.
I one time had the thing stop completely as I was turning off the runway
and heard the tower advise the next aircraft to go around. Embarassing,
but at least, I can always restart the engine quickly. If the fuel flow is
a bit higher than you'd use for taxi, the engine smooths out - also
consistent with fuel vaporization.
Does anybody else have this same problem?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A N811WT
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
From: scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
Same problem here, its fuel boiling in the injector lines. Call AFP and ord
er he smallest injector jets, this will raise the line pressure thus the bo
iling point. Also set your system to an extra rich idle-mixture just for
this occasion. Mine really acts up on left turns.......go figure.=0A=0A=0AS
cott RV-8a=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: thomas sarge
nt =0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Wedne
sday, June 13, 2012 11:15 AM=0ASubject: RV-List: rough running during taxi
after landing=0A=0A=0AThis is a question for all of you who have AirFlow Pe
rformance fuel injection, as I do on mt RV-6A.- When I start up and taxi
around prior to take off, I have no problem, even in warm Arizona weather.
- However, after I've been flying and return to land, taxiing is a proble
m.- The engine runs very unevenly and almost stops completely some times.
- =0A=0AThe guys at AFP, and I think they are right, say it is fuel vapor
izing in the skinny stainless steel lines that go from the spider to the in
jector nozzles.- "These planes do that."- I notice on a warm day when I
hit the brakes to slow down for a turn, it always gets worse, as though th
e slight decrease in air moving through the cowl aggravates the vaporizatio
n.- Turning on the boost pump has no effect.=0A=0AI should mention that I
have a fiberglass cooling plenum which means there is a bit less enclosed
volume over the engine than there would be if I'd use the stock baffling sc
heme that has the airseal fabric pressing against the top of the cowl.-
=0A=0AI one time had the thing stop completely as I was turning off the run
way and heard the tower advise the next aircraft to go around.- Embarassi
ng, but at least, I can always restart the engine quickly.- If the fuel f
low is a bit higher than you'd use for taxi, the engine smooths out - also
consistent with fuel vaporization.=0A=0ADoes anybody else have this same pr
====
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Scott:
Yes! Left turns are definitely worse.
On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 12:05 PM, scott bilinski wrote:
> Same problem here, its fuel boiling in the injector lines. Call AFP and
> order he smallest injector jets, this will raise the line pressure thus the
> boiling point. Also set your system to an extra rich idle mixture just for
> this occasion. Mine really acts up on left turns.......go figure.
>
> Scott RV-8a
>
> **
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
Tom,
I had a sorta-similar problem - mine was more restart related though.
I would land - taxi - refuel - and have trouble restarting...even after using the
purge valve...and it would run a bit rough...
I changed my injector restrictors from the stock .028 to .024 which helped a lot
- and allows the boost pump to manage the stumbling at idle after the restart.
My next step will be (already have the part) to put a cooling shroud on the
mechanical pump....I already know it will be a PITB to install.
I have the SamJames plenum and cowl along with the AFP injection - mine is updraft
as I have a Vetterman dual crossover with mufflers and heater-boxes.
Haven't had these kinds of issues since and I am quite happy with the results.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jun 13, 2012 2:15 PM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: rough running during taxi after landing
>
>This is a question for all of you who have AirFlow Performance fuel
>injection, as I do on mt RV-6A. When I start up and taxi around prior to
>take off, I have no problem, even in warm Arizona weather. However, after
>I've been flying and return to land, taxiing is a problem. The engine runs
>very unevenly and almost stops completely some times.
>
>The guys at AFP, and I think they are right, say it is fuel vaporizing in
>the skinny stainless steel lines that go from the spider to the injector
>nozzles. "These planes do that." I notice on a warm day when I hit the
>brakes to slow down for a turn, it always gets worse, as though the slight
>decrease in air moving through the cowl aggravates the vaporization.
>Turning on the boost pump has no effect.
>
>I should mention that I have a fiberglass cooling plenum which means there
>is a bit less enclosed volume over the engine than there would be if I'd
>use the stock baffling scheme that has the airseal fabric pressing against
>the top of the cowl.
>
>I one time had the thing stop completely as I was turning off the runway
>and heard the tower advise the next aircraft to go around. Embarassing,
>but at least, I can always restart the engine quickly. If the fuel flow is
>a bit higher than you'd use for taxi, the engine smooths out - also
>consistent with fuel vaporization.
>
>Does anybody else have this same problem?
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A N811WT
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Ralph:
I have changed the nozzles from 0.28 to 0.024 and it did improve the
problem. The engine even produced notably more horse power, presumably due
to better fuel atomization. Scott has me wondering if I shouldn't go to a
still smaller nozzle size. My annual is in July, maybe I should get a set.
On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 12:32 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> I had a sorta-similar problem - mine was more restart related though.
>
> I would land - taxi - refuel - and have trouble restarting...even after
> using the purge valve...and it would run a bit rough...
> I changed my injector restrictors from the stock .028 to .024 which helped
> a lot - and allows the boost pump to manage the stumbling at idle after the
> restart. My next step will be (already have the part) to put a cooling
> shroud on the mechanical pump....I already know it will be a PITB to
> install.
>
> I have the SamJames plenum and cowl along with the AFP injection - mine is
> updraft as I have a Vetterman dual crossover with mufflers and heater-boxes.
>
> Haven't had these kinds of issues since and I am quite happy with the
> results.
>
> Ralph
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
Tom,
Do you have the SJ cowl and plenum or did you go plenum only?
With my setup, I am experiencing some balance problems with my injection system
from front to rear when I try to run Lean-of-peak (LOP). AFP has recommended
that I install turbo-style injector vent rails to balance the vent-pressure at
the base of each injector. Another item that I have the parts for and will
do in the future.
Collect all the performance data you can - in case you decide to go with .022's.
I think .022 is the smallest size available.
Have you run the flaw balance tests yet for LOP operations? What do you have for
an engine monitor? Mine is an AFS3400sEE - I get data captured at one second
intervals for all of my flights.
Keep us informed - I'll let you know what I did...and want to know your results
as well.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jun 13, 2012 3:45 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: rough running during taxi after landing
>
>Ralph:
>I have changed the nozzles from 0.28 to 0.024 and it did improve the
>problem. The engine even produced notably more horse power, presumably due
>to better fuel atomization. Scott has me wondering if I shouldn't go to a
>still smaller nozzle size. My annual is in July, maybe I should get a set.
>
>On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 12:32 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> I had a sorta-similar problem - mine was more restart related though.
>>
>> I would land - taxi - refuel - and have trouble restarting...even after
>> using the purge valve...and it would run a bit rough...
>> I changed my injector restrictors from the stock .028 to .024 which helped
>> a lot - and allows the boost pump to manage the stumbling at idle after the
>> restart. My next step will be (already have the part) to put a cooling
>> shroud on the mechanical pump....I already know it will be a PITB to
>> install.
>>
>> I have the SamJames plenum and cowl along with the AFP injection - mine is
>> updraft as I have a Vetterman dual crossover with mufflers and heater-boxes.
>>
>> Haven't had these kinds of issues since and I am quite happy with the
>> results.
>>
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Ralph:
I don't have the Sam James stuff. I have a stock cowl with a cooling plenum
I built myself. I haven't done any flow testing. If I get to altitude and
lean it most of the way (say 9.5gph at 8500 ft and 2400 rpm) and let things
stabilize for a few minutes, then I can lean it. I have an old VM1000 and
use it's leaning mode. It looks for peak egt as I slowly lean it. It
usually ends up at 8.0 or 8.5 gph when leaned to 50deg. rich of peak an
2400 - 2450rpm.
My cyl. head temps are pretty even. The VM1000 temp. bar graph shows cyl.
2,3, and 4 at the same level and cyl #1 one notch lower than the rest. So
I think that means my fuel flow is pretty even to all the cylinders.
On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 1:06 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> Do you have the SJ cowl and plenum or did you go plenum only?
> With my setup, I am experiencing some balance problems with my injection
> system from front to rear when I try to run Lean-of-peak (LOP). AFP has
> recommended that I install turbo-style injector vent rails to balance the
> vent-pressure at the base of each injector. Another item that I have the
> parts for and will do in the future.
>
> Collect all the performance data you can - in case you decide to go with
> .022's. I think .022 is the smallest size available.
>
> Have you run the flaw balance tests yet for LOP operations? What do you
> have for an engine monitor? Mine is an AFS3400sEE - I get data captured at
> one second intervals for all of my flights.
>
> Keep us informed - I'll let you know what I did...and want to know your
> results as well.
>
> Ralph
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
>From that - it sounds like you're in pretty good shape.
If you want to get to the really finer points of LOP, you'll need to record fuel
flows and egts for when each cylinder peaks. Then, you'll be able to determine
if the flow rates are within .1gph of each other...(that's where mine are).
Good luck,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jun 13, 2012 4:53 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: rough running during taxi after landing
>
>Ralph:
>I don't have the Sam James stuff. I have a stock cowl with a cooling plenum
>I built myself. I haven't done any flow testing. If I get to altitude and
>lean it most of the way (say 9.5gph at 8500 ft and 2400 rpm) and let things
>stabilize for a few minutes, then I can lean it. I have an old VM1000 and
>use it's leaning mode. It looks for peak egt as I slowly lean it. It
>usually ends up at 8.0 or 8.5 gph when leaned to 50deg. rich of peak an
>2400 - 2450rpm.
>
>My cyl. head temps are pretty even. The VM1000 temp. bar graph shows cyl.
>2,3, and 4 at the same level and cyl #1 one notch lower than the rest. So
>I think that means my fuel flow is pretty even to all the cylinders.
>
>On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 1:06 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> Do you have the SJ cowl and plenum or did you go plenum only?
>> With my setup, I am experiencing some balance problems with my injection
>> system from front to rear when I try to run Lean-of-peak (LOP). AFP has
>> recommended that I install turbo-style injector vent rails to balance the
>> vent-pressure at the base of each injector. Another item that I have the
>> parts for and will do in the future.
>>
>> Collect all the performance data you can - in case you decide to go with
>> .022's. I think .022 is the smallest size available.
>>
>> Have you run the flaw balance tests yet for LOP operations? What do you
>> have for an engine monitor? Mine is an AFS3400sEE - I get data captured at
>> one second intervals for all of my flights.
>>
>> Keep us informed - I'll let you know what I did...and want to know your
>> results as well.
>>
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>--
>Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 13, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Several unrelated questions
At 03:32 PM 6/13/2012 Wednesday, you wrote:
>Am laying out the electrical/avionics systems wiring and keep dropping into "don't
know" holes. Maybe I can tap into some expertise? All comments thankfully
received. Hope I can pay it forward someday.
>
>1. Originally settled on the ACK E-04 ELT, but now looking hard at the Ameri-King
AK451-2D. Similar price and appears more "antenna installation" friendly.
Planning on the Front Seatback Support location I've seen other builders use
for the antenna mount. At 15 long, it appears that I might even be able to
install the whip without canopy interference but not sure about that. Probably
go with the rubber ducky.
>
>2. Would appreciate any VP-X installation photos that might be available. I've
got a tentative location identified, but it appears a bit tight.
>
>3. Dynon Skyview: My glass panel planning BDS included a dedicated EMS. I still
prefer that. I like the idea of a dedicated engine display. I'm considering
the MGL mini-EMS. However, it's tough to justify the extra expense even
though there is space on the panel.
>Maybe it's just years of flying experience with separated flight and engine steam
gauges. I'll be day/night VFR if that's any significance.
>
>4. Really embarrassing. I want to check the trim servo, but haven't figured
out the RayCo wiring diagram. Individual servo wires are not identified. A continuity
check didn't help. Thought that the white wires would be +12V with
one of the 3 wires going to the indicator providing the ground. Doesn't seem
to work that way. Curses, foiled again.
>
>Stan Loer
>RV-8 QB
Hi Stan,
Here's a few pictures of how I did my VP-200 Control Unit installation. VP-x Control
Unit should be similar.
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=67193&row=157
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=75674&row=77
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77065&row=71
And here's some pictures of how I mounted my "Ameri-King AK-451 ELT w/ GPS Input"
including antenna:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77846&row=50
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77847&row=49
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77848&row=48
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2971&log=77849&row=47
Best regards,
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 100+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: rough running during taxi after landing
Date: Jun 14, 2012
YEP. Exact same problem.
Keep the boost pump on and the RPMs above 1000. Install a fuel pump
cooling shroud.
On hot days, the problem does not go away, just have to learn to manage
it.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: thomas sargent
To: rv-list
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 2:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: rough running during taxi after landing
This is a question for all of you who have AirFlow Performance fuel
injection, as I do on mt RV-6A. When I start up and taxi around prior
to take off, I have no problem, even in warm Arizona weather. However,
after I've been flying and return to land, taxiing is a problem. The
engine runs very unevenly and almost stops completely some times.
The guys at AFP, and I think they are right, say it is fuel vaporizing
in the skinny stainless steel lines that go from the spider to the
injector nozzles. "These planes do that." I notice on a warm day when
I hit the brakes to slow down for a turn, it always gets worse, as
though the slight decrease in air moving through the cowl aggravates the
vaporization. Turning on the boost pump has no effect.
I should mention that I have a fiberglass cooling plenum which means
there is a bit less enclosed volume over the engine than there would be
if I'd use the stock baffling scheme that has the airseal fabric
pressing against the top of the cowl.
I one time had the thing stop completely as I was turning off the
runway and heard the tower advise the next aircraft to go around.
Embarassing, but at least, I can always restart the engine quickly. If
the fuel flow is a bit higher than you'd use for taxi, the engine
smooths out - also consistent with fuel vaporization.
Does anybody else have this same problem?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A N811WT
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charlie" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fw: Boogie-Woogie
Date: Jun 23, 2012
From: Cheryl Ogborn
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 10:05 PM
Kordisch ; Mary Kordisch ; Judy Brandenburg
Subject: Fw: FW: Boogie-Woogie
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Clippinger
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 7:38 PM
Subject: Fw: FW: Boogie-Woogie
"OUTSTANDING"
" LET'ER ROLL REV. LET'ER ROLL " !=98=BA
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: roger smith <rogerretasmith(at)yahoo.com>
; bob thomas ; Roger
Bartz ; Pete Funk ; joe Gross
; rich feddersen
; dennis sturnberg
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 5:13 AM
Subject: Fw: FW: Boogie-Woogie
Enjoy
----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Wally Erspamer <wally(at)ozarkmountains.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 10:26 PM
Subject: Fw: FW: Boogie-Woogie
ANYBODY But Obama in 2012!
----- Original Message -----
From: GAry Mark
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 8:09 PM
Subject: Fwd: FW: Boogie-Woogie
Boogie-Woogie
DO YOU REMEMBER?
If you can take your eyes off her, the
male dancer is super . . . never moves his shoulders compared to what
his feet and knees are doing. And the top of his head stays at the same
height no matter what.
This is a pianist from Switzerland who
plays some of the best Boogie-Woogie anywhere. He is so popular over
there, they hold a week-long Boogie-Woogie contest every year and all
the best players in the world are invited. In this video he is joined by
2 amazing dancers... The male dancer even has a haircut from the
forties.
Turn up the volume, watch and give it a
listen! If you experience any trouble tapping your foot to the beat, you
had better hurry and schedule an appointment with your physician.
FOR THOSE WHO DON'T REMEMBER, THIS IS
HOW THE BOOGIE-WOOGIE IS SUPPOSED TO BE DONE!
BOOGIEWOOGIE.wmv
--
Gary M
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jun 26, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Backplate For Comant CI-105
I just ordered two Comant CI-105 transponder antennas from PacificCoast. I could
swear that the last time I ordered this antenna (about 2008) that it came with
an aluminum backplate. Perhaps 1.5" x 5" with holes
prepunched for the BNC and two stud posts. Both of the antennas I just received
have a cork gasket, but neither has the metal backplate. Am I crazy?
Matt
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 100+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV8-List: Backplate For Comant CI-105
Date: Jun 26, 2012
No backplate on the one I ordered either. I made one out of .032 aluminum.
Carl
On Jun 26, 2012, at 1:11 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>
>
> I just ordered two Comant CI-105 transponder antennas from PacificCoast. I could
swear that the last time I ordered this antenna (about 2008) that it came
with an aluminum backplate. Perhaps 1.5" x 5" with holes
> prepunched for the BNC and two stud posts. Both of the antennas I just received
have a cork gasket, but neither has the metal backplate. Am I crazy?
>
> Matt
>
>
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 100+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Backplate For Comant CI-105
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jun 26, 2012
Matt-
Maybe, but who am I to judge. ;o)
IIRC you are correct though. They have probably have "valued engineered"
the product now and increased their profit margin a little.
Just make some. If you need some stock I probably have a bunch in my hanga
r.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
-list
Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 10:12 am
Subject: RV-List: Backplate For Comant CI-105
just ordered two Comant CI-105 transponder antennas from PacificCoast. I
ould swear that the last time I ordered this antenna (about 2008) that it c
ame
ith an aluminum backplate. Perhaps 1.5" x 5" with holes
repunched for the BNC and two stud posts. Both of the antennas I just rece
ived
ave a cork gasket, but neither has the metal backplate. Am I crazy?
Matt
-
att Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
ttp://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
ttp://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
ttp://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
tatus: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
ttp://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
tatus: 100+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mod
e
-========================
-= - The RV-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
-
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-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Prop strike - by a hangar door
Date: Jun 29, 2012
Here's my scenario:
We had a tornado at my local airport - looks like the sliding hangar door
was pushed in to the prop (MT 3 blade Hydraulic CS) of my plane. It was in
the hangar at the time - not running - just sitting there innocently in its
chocks. The first look -see didn't reveal any obvious damage - closer
inspection made a difference. I can see damage to the spinner and the lower
two blades wobble not so nicely as compared to the rock solid top one.
At a minimum, I'm thinking the prop gets rebuilt.
I'm concerned about impact damage to the front of the engine. What could
have been damaged? Would it be worth my while to have someone put a dial
indicator to the prop flange? What would be your suggestion to determine if
it needs to be torn apart and measured? I haven't tried rotating it through
yet - in case I could make things worse.
Full inspection tomorrow - this was just what came from the first look
through.
Your thoughts please,
Ralph Capen
410-430-1344
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: #3 overheating
From: Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au>
Date: Jul 04, 2012
I wonder do you have a heat muff on the exhaust that might be be impeding th
e air from exiting beneath cylinder #3? I have a marginal issue on my rv6 a
nd am suspecting the muff and the scat tubing may be interfering with the ai
rflow exit. I simply keep the running on the ground to a minimum and climb o
ut at 110 to 120 kts. At some stage I will remove the muff at scat tubing t
o test my theory.
Doug Gray
Sent from my iPad
On 03/07/2012, at 4:17 PM, mr.gsun(at)gmail.com wrote:
> RV-List,
>
> I've had issues with overheating on my 2004 RV7, IO 360 with about 560 hou
rs. I had the cowl off for other reasons and did the "coke bottle test" and
measured the fuel coming out of the injectors with just the electric boost p
ump on and the mixure & throttle full in.
>
> At 28 psi as registered on my Skyview system, I got:
> #1 110 ml in one minute
> #2 115 ml in one minute
> #3 108 ml in one minute
> #4 112 ml in one minute
>
> I had cleaned the injectors by soaking them in Hoppe's cleaner as per Lyco
ming instructions less than 8 months ago and the spray pattern was identical
in all four.
> So I swapped #3 (the lowest) for #2 (the highest) thinking that if I ran t
he overheating cylinder a bit richer, my problem would be solved. I soaked t
hem again, inspected and dried them before installation.
>
> Does this seem reasonable?
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Overheating
Date: Jul 04, 2012
Maybe it would be a good idea, if you really care about the results of the
coke bottle test, just to repeat it several times. You need to bracket the
variability in the results themselves before you decide whether you care
about a 5ml difference from one to another. I'd be willing to bet most of
the list running a four cylinder engine would read highest temps on #3
anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 05, 2012
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: First Saturday Fly-Ins at KEHR, Henderson, KY
Our EAA 21 Club Fly-Ins now include Saturday Matinee at the Movies, with
free popcorn, in the air-conditioned FBO conference room
We will be preparing Hamburgers, Brats and NATHANS FAMOUS Hot Dogs for
all that fly in.
Just as New York's 21 Club has become known as the HAPPENING PLACE to be
and be seen, EAA 21 Club is the place to be on the first Saturday of
each month.
When: July 7, August 4, September 1, October 6, 2012
10:00 AM till 2:00 PM Central time.
Where: Henderson Kentucky City-County Airport (KEHR)
If KEHR is VFR then we will be cooking the best Gourmet Burgers,
Brats and Dogs this side of Sporty's.
EAA 21 Club is expanding. Watch for the announcement about our new
Third Saturday Fly-Ins at EVV
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H. Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Biannual Check Ride
Date: Jul 05, 2012
Anyone know for sure if a CFI who doesn't have a tailwheel endorsement
can give me a check ride in my rv-4?
Thanks,
Ivan Haecker
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 06, 2012
From: Scott <acepilot(at)bloomer.net>
Subject: Re: Biannual Check Ride
You are pilot in command during a BFR (as long as your medical is
current and your last BFR is not yet expired) so I don't see why he
couldn't sign you off. He is just checking that you can safely operate
the plane.
On 7-6-2012 02:23, H. Ivan Haecker wrote:
> Anyone know for sure if a CFI who doesn't have a tailwheel endorsement
> can give me a check ride in my rv-4?
> Thanks,
> Ivan Haecker
> *
>
>
> *
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: Biannual Check Ride
Date: Jul 05, 2012
Hi Ivan,
"Check ride" is a vague and troublesome term. In this case, "Flight Review"
is the term to use.
My understanding is: If you are legal to act as PIC in the airplane and are
doing so, the CFI does not need a tailwheel endorsement (or even a current
medical) to provide a flight review. Otherwise; the CFI must act as PIC (and
have a medical, tailwheel endorsement, etc.).
Jon
http://jdfinley.com
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of H. Ivan Haecker
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 8:24 PM
Subject: RV-List: Biannual Check Ride
Anyone know for sure if a CFI who doesn't have a tailwheel endorsement can
give me a check ride in my rv-4?
Thanks,
Ivan Haecker
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "H. Ivan Haecker" <baremetl(at)gvtc.com>
Subject: Re: Biannual Check Ride
Date: Jul 06, 2012
Jon,
You're right about the terminology. I just couldn't come up with the
correct jargon when I posted. Thanks for the clarification and the
opinion. I'll be taking my flight review this weekend and maybe I can
give the guy some tailwheel "instruction" in exchange. Haha
And Scott, I don't know how much rv-4 time you may have, but after 1700+
hrs. in mine, I am sure you won't be disappointed in yours. And you are
right on in thinking "Gotta fly or gonna die!".
Thanks both of you for responding.
Ivan
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 07, 2012
Subject: screen in sump?
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove, clean,
inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil
suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't confuse this
with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine because
that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen in the sump
and if so how do I get to it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: screen in sump?
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 08, 2012
The Lycoming O-360 series suction screen is accessed by removing a hex head
ed cap plug on the rear near the bottom of the sump. In the PC-106 Parts C
atalog please ref Figure 25 Find No. 21.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jul 7, 2012 11:14 pm
Subject: RV-List: screen in sump?
The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove, clean, ins
pect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil suctio
n sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't confuse this with the
engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine because that was
replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen in the sump and if s
o how do I get to it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
-= - The RV-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: screen in sump?
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Tom,
When you do find it (other post had a good description), remember to
replace the crush gasket, I buy oil filters, crush gaskets and Oil
analysis kits in matching batches =93 usually 6-pack as the oil
filters come that way at a discount.
If you still can=99t find it let me know and I=99ll get a
picture for you
Ralph
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 2:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: screen in sump?
The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove, clean,
inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil
suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't confuse this
with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine
because that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen
in the sump and if so how do I get to it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Schmidt <jeschmidt(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 07/07/12
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Tom:
A guy from Lycoming showed up to our EAA chapter 25 meeting a few months ag
o=2C and described the screen in the sump. He said that an incredible numbe
r of homebuilders are ignoring this screen=2C to the detriment of the life
of their engines. You are wise to ask.
I found this through a simple Google search.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/archive/index.php?t-29848.html
Look at Page 6-2=2C part number 14=2C Screen=2C Oil Suction
http://www.expaircraft.com/PDF/IPC.pdf
best=2C John Schmidt St. Paul=2C MN RV6 N218PJ (the Forever Project). EAA 2
50021
>
> 1. 11:14 PM - screen in sump? (thomas sargent)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 ____________________________
_________
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: screen in sump?
> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>
> The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove=2C clean
=2C
> inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil
> suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine=2C so don't confuse thi
s
> with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine because
> that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen in the su
mp
> and if so how do I get to it?
>
> Thanks=2C
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: screen in sump?
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Ralph,
What size is the crush gasket? I=99m putting an Aircraft Spruce
order together and I may as well get some now.
Thanks,
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 7:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: screen in sump?
Tom,
When you do find it (other post had a good description), remember to
replace the crush gasket, I buy oil filters, crush gaskets and Oil
analysis kits in matching batches =93 usually 6-pack as the oil
filters come that way at a discount.
If you still can=99t find it let me know and I=99ll get a
picture for you
Ralph
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 2:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: screen in sump?
The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove, clean,
inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil
suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't confuse this
with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine
because that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen
in the sump and if so how do I get to it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: screen in sump?
From the referenced thread,
"STD-111 Gasket, 1 in ID x 1 1/4 in ID x 3/32 Annular.
I believe it might also have an AN 900 number...
A whole 58 cents from AERO.....:)
http://www.aeroinstock.com/products/GASKET/5598/48371/product_detail/index.html
..also cross references to a MS35769-21 on the AERO site....
But, if it's 1.00 inch ID (and the plug has a 1.0 diam thread) then the
correct cross-reference is MS35769-16 or the older AN900-16 number - and
is a whole 39 cents from Aircraft Spruce."
On 7/8/2012 6:09 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> Ralph,
>
> What size is the crush gasket? Im putting an Aircraft Spruce order
> together and I may as well get some now.
>
> Thanks,
> Carl
>
> *From:*owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Ralph E. Capen
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 7:54 AM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV-List: screen in sump?
>
> Tom,
>
> When you do find it (other post had a good description), remember to
> replace the crush gasket, I buy oil filters, crush gaskets and Oil
> analysis kits in matching batches usually 6-pack as the oil filters
> come that way at a discount.
>
> If you still cant find it let me know and Ill get a picture for you
>
> Ralph
>
> *From:*owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *thomas sargent
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 2:14 AM
> *To:* rv-list
> *Subject:* RV-List: screen in sump?
>
> The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove,
> clean, inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is
> the oil suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't
> confuse this with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in
> the engine because that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there
> another screen in the sump and if so how do I get to it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
> * *
> * *
> * *
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> * *
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> * *
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> * *
> * *
> * *
> * *
> **
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List*
> **
> **
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
> **
> **
> **
> **
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
> **
> * *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Gentlemen:
My RV-A is nearly ready for its first flight. I cannot medically fly
the plane and another pilot(s) will be flying off the 40 hours.
Do any of you have a waiver for other pilots to sign when they fly your
RV? My wife and I are nervous about this...
Thanks...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Subject: Re: screen in sump?
From: Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com>
Tom:
On a Lyc 360 it's a metal, reuseable, "finger" filter - accessed by
removing a hex-head cap (the filter will come out with the cap) on the back
of the engine, right side and down low - not the easiest thing to get at
and difficult to safety wire when reinstalling - helps to temporarily
remove SCAT tubing connecting the right side heat muff to the heater box -
clean it with solvent - be careful puttting it back in - it's easily
crushed if you don't fully seat it before tightening the cap. Hope this
helps!
Cheers,
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A - N307TB
320 hours since
1st flight on 8/4/09
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> From the referenced thread,
> "STD-111 Gasket, 1 in ID x 1 1/4 in ID x 3/32 Annular.
>
> I believe it might also have an AN 900 number...
>
> A whole 58 cents from AERO.....:)
>
> http://www.aeroinstock.com/**products/GASKET/5598/48371/**
> product_detail/index.html<http://www.aeroinstock.com/products/GASKET/5598
/48371/product_detail/index.html>
>
> ..also cross references to a MS35769-21 on the AERO site....
>
> But, if it's 1.00 inch ID (and the plug has a 1.0 diam thread) then the
> correct cross-reference is MS35769-16 or the older AN900-16 number - and
is
> a whole 39 cents from Aircraft Spruce."
>
>
> On 7/8/2012 6:09 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
>>
>> Ralph,
>>
>> What size is the crush gasket? I=92m putting an Aircraft Spruce order
>> together and I may as well get some now.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Carl
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv-list-server@**matronics.com[mailto:
>> owner-rv-list-server@**matronics.com ]
>> *On Behalf Of *Ralph E. Capen
>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 7:54 AM
>> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RE: RV-List: screen in sump?
>>
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> When you do find it (other post had a good description), remember to
>> replace the crush gasket, I buy oil filters, crush gaskets and Oil
>> analysis kits in matching batches ' usually 6-pack as the oil filters
come
>> that way at a discount.
>>
>> If you still can=92t find it let me know and I=92ll get a picture for yo
u=85
>>
>> Ralph
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv-list-server@**matronics.com> owner-rv-list-server@**matronics.com >
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@**matronics.com]
>> *On Behalf Of *thomas sargent
>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 2:14 AM
>> *To:* rv-list
>> *Subject:* RV-List: screen in sump?
>>
>>
>> The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove, clean,
>> inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil
>> suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't confuse this
>> with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine becaus
e
>> that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen in the s
ump
>> and if so how do I get to it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> --
>> Tom Sargent
>>
>> * *
>> * *
>> * *
>> *http://www.matronics.com/**Navigator?RV-List*
Navigator?RV-List*>
>> * *
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>> * *
>> *http://www.matronics.com/**contribution*
ibution*>
>> * *
>> * *
>> * *
>> * *
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/**Navigator?RV-List*
Navigator?RV-List*>
>> **
>> **
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> **
>> *http://www.matronics.com/**contribution*
ibution*>
>> **
>> * *
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
=====**===================
===========**=
nics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
=====**===================
===========**=
=====**===================
===========**=
com/contribution>
=====**===================
===========**=
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us>
Subject: Re: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Go to the AOPA web site...they have as fairly good one that you can
download.
----- Original Message -----
From: jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com
To: RV-List
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 9:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
Gentlemen:
My RV-A is nearly ready for its first flight. I cannot medically fly
the plane and another pilot(s) will be flying off the 40 hours.
Do any of you have a waiver for other pilots to sign when they fly
your RV? My wife and I are nervous about this...
Thanks...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Subject: Re:RV-list: screen in sump?
From: MLE <rv6awingman(at)gmail.com>
Tom,
On my 0-360 A1A there is a screen on the bottom rear of the sump, held in
by a bolt that is safety tied to the case. Behind that bolt is a finger
screen. This is not to be confused with the oil filter.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Subject: RV-List: screen in sump?
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove, clean,
inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil
suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't confuse this
with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine because
that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen in the sump
and if so how do I get to it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich(at)dcscorp.com>
Subject: Re: screen in sump?
Date: Jul 08, 2012
On my IO-360 facing forward it's the safety wired cap on the right side of
the sump. Getting to it and re-safety wiring it is a PITA.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
Date: Jul 08, 2012
It's common to add another pilot on to your insurance policy. Talk with
your agent about it, or contact Sky Smith for some help making this
decision:
http://skysmith.com/
From: JohnF
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
Go to the AOPA web site...they have as fairly good one that you can
download.
----- Original Message -----
From: jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com
To: RV-List
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 9:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
Gentlemen:
My RV-A is nearly ready for its first flight. I cannot medically fly
the plane and another pilot(s) will be flying off the 40 hours.
Do any of you have a waiver for other pilots to sign when they fly
your RV? My wife and I are nervous about this...
Thanks...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: screen in sump?
Date: Jul 08, 2012
AN900-16 AN GASKETS MS35769-21
Is what I ordered...
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 9:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: screen in sump?
Ralph,
What size is the crush gasket? I=99m putting an Aircraft Spruce
order together and I may as well get some now.
Thanks,
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 7:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: screen in sump?
Tom,
When you do find it (other post had a good description), remember to
replace the crush gasket, I buy oil filters, crush gaskets and Oil
analysis kits in matching batches =93 usually 6-pack as the oil
filters come that way at a discount.
If you still can=99t find it let me know and I=99ll get a
picture for you
Ralph
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 2:14 AM
Subject: RV-List: screen in sump?
The checklist I am using for my annual inspections says "remove, clean,
inspect oil suction screen in sump". Where in an Lyc. O-360 is the oil
suction sump? I have an oil filter on the engine, so don't confuse this
with the engine oil screen. There is no oil screen in the engine
because that was replaced with the oil filter. Is there another screen
in the sump and if so how do I get to it?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Subject: Re: screen in sump?
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Thanks for the responses. I ordered the lyc. parts manual.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 08, 2012
Subject: pitot system leaks
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I tested the pitot system (using the water in a U-shaped tube method) in my
RV-6A today and found it leaking fairly badly. Tightening up the various
fittings helped. I'm always afraid of over-tightening those plastic
fittings. That improved things but it still leaks down the airspeed
indicator from about 106 to 100 knots in a couple of minutes. I assume it
should be able to hold constant for many minutes?
Do people ever use any kind of sealant on these fittings? A thin film of
oil on the sealing surfaces perhaps?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 09, 2012
First of all, what types of fittings are you using? The best ones have int
imate sealing surfaces or ferrules.
What is the nature of the sealing surfaces? They should be smooth and cont
iguous.
Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the outside? Insid
e must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 9:21 pm
Subject: RV-List: pitot system leaks
I tested the pitot system (using the water in a U-shaped tube method) in my
RV-6A today and found it leaking fairly badly. Tightening up the various
fittings helped. I'm always afraid of over-tightening those plastic fittin
gs. That improved things but it still leaks down the airspeed indicator fr
om about 106 to 100 knots in a couple of minutes. I assume it should be ab
le to hold constant for many minutes?
Do people ever use any kind of sealant on these fittings? A thin film of oi
l on the sealing surfaces perhaps?
--
Tom Sargent
-= - The RV-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 09, 2012
Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the outside? Insid
e must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
Sorry, this should have been completed as: Outside must be absolutely flaw
less and slick to seal with O-ring fittings and a little DC4 couldn't hurt.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: vanremog <vanremog(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 11:18 pm
Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
First of all, what types of fittings are you using? The best ones have int
imate sealing surfaces or ferrules.
What is the nature of the sealing surfaces? They should be smooth and cont
iguous.
Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the outside? Insid
e must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 9:21 pm
Subject: RV-List: pitot system leaks
I tested the pitot system (using the water in a U-shaped tube method) in my
RV-6A today and found it leaking fairly badly. Tightening up the various
fittings helped. I'm always afraid of over-tightening those plastic fittin
gs. That improved things but it still leaks down the airspeed indicator fr
om about 106 to 100 knots in a couple of minutes. I assume it should be ab
le to hold constant for many minutes?
Do people ever use any kind of sealant on these fittings? A thin film of oi
l on the sealing surfaces perhaps?
--
Tom Sargent
t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
://forums.matronics.com
lank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-= - The RV-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
Date: Jul 09, 2012
The leak spec for the static system is to draw a vacuum to indicate 1000' ab
ove elevation and hold. The altimeter should not drop more than 100' in one
minute.
After chasing my tail to find a static leak on my 8A, I finally checked each
instrument separately with the panel on the bench. I found the face plate o
n the air speed indicator to be the source of the leak (the static port on t
he air speed indicator just connects to the case). To do this ASI leak test
, connect your manometer to a "T", then a line to both the pitot and static c
onnectors.
A simple field fix is to use a very small amount for RTV around the glass pe
rimeter. The more elaborate fix is to send it to an avionics shop - but tha
t will most likely be more expensive than just replacing the ASI.
Carl
On Jul 9, 2012, at 2:21 AM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the outside? Insi
de must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
> Sorry, this should have been completed as: Outside must be absolutely fla
wless and slick to seal with O-ring fittings and a little DC4 couldn't hurt.
>
> -GV
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vanremog <vanremog(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list
> Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 11:18 pm
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
>
> First of all, what types of fittings are you using? The best ones have in
timate sealing surfaces or ferrules.
> What is the nature of the sealing surfaces? They should be smooth and con
tiguous.
>
> Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the outside? Insi
de must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
>
>
> -GV
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv-list
> Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 9:21 pm
> Subject: RV-List: pitot system leaks
>
> I tested the pitot system (using the water in a U-shaped tube method) in m
y RV-6A today and found it leaking fairly badly. Tightening up the various f
ittings helped. I'm always afraid of over-tightening those plastic fittings
. That improved things but it still leaks down the airspeed indicator from a
bout 106 to 100 knots in a couple of minutes. I assume it should be able to
hold constant for many minutes?
>
> Do people ever use any kind of sealant on these fittings? A thin film of o
il on the sealing surfaces perhaps?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
>
> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2012
Subject: Re: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
From: "jfogarty tds.net" <jfogarty(at)tds.net>
Joe, Call your agent and check on higher limits of liability insurance,
also, make sure they understand that it is someone other than you flying
off the first 40 hours. Also, check into an Umbrella policy through your
personal lines agent. Good luck.
Jim Fogarty
Breezy Point, MN
RV-9A building
On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 10:22 AM, JohnF wrote:
> **
> Go to the AOPA web site...they have as fairly good one that you can
> download.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com
> *To:* RV-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 9:04 AM
> *Subject:* RV-List: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> My RV-A is nearly ready for its first flight. I cannot medically fly the
> plane and another pilot(s) will be flying off the 40 hours.
>
> Do any of you have a waiver for other pilots to sign when they fly your
> RV? My wife and I are nervous about this...
>
> Thanks...
>
> Joe Connell
> Stewartville, MN
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2012
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
The pitot system follows the plans. Van's pitot tube with aluminum fitting
to AL tubing which then mates to poly tubing which then connects to
instruments using nyloseal fittings. I could tighten many of the nyloseal
fittings with my fingers - so I did. I suspect the leaks are at the point
where the fittings screw into the instruments.
On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 3:51 AM, Carl Froehlich
wrote:
> The leak spec for the static system is to draw a vacuum to indicate 1000'
> above elevation and hold. The altimeter should not drop more than 100' in
> one minute.
>
> After chasing my tail to find a static leak on my 8A, I finally checked
> each instrument separately with the panel on the bench. I found the face
> plate on the air speed indicator to be the source of the leak (the static
> port on the air speed indicator just connects to the case). To do this ASI
> leak test, connect your manometer to a "T", then a line to both the pitot
> and static connectors.
>
> A simple field fix is to use a very small amount for RTV around the glass
> perimeter. The more elaborate fix is to send it to an avionics shop - but
> that will most likely be more expensive than just replacing the ASI.
>
> Carl
>
> On Jul 9, 2012, at 2:21 AM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the outside?
> Inside must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
>
> Sorry, this should have been completed as: Outside must be absolutely
> flawless and slick to seal with O-ring fittings and a little DC4 couldn't
> hurt.
>
> -GV
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vanremog <vanremog(at)aol.com>
> To: rv-list
> Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 11:18 pm
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
>
> First of all, what types of fittings are you using? The best ones have
> intimate sealing surfaces or ferrules.
> What is the nature of the sealing surfaces? They should be smooth and
> contiguous.
>
> Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the outside?
> Inside must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
>
>
> -GV
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv-list
> Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 9:21 pm
> Subject: RV-List: pitot system leaks
>
> I tested the pitot system (using the water in a U-shaped tube method) in
> my RV-6A today and found it leaking fairly badly. Tightening up the
> various fittings helped. I'm always afraid of over-tightening those
> plastic fittings. That improved things but it still leaks down the
> airspeed indicator from about 106 to 100 knots in a couple of minutes. I
> assume it should be able to hold constant for many minutes?
>
> Do people ever use any kind of sealant on these fittings? A thin film of
> oil on the sealing surfaces perhaps?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
> *
>
> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> p://forums.matronics.com
> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
> ==================================
> /www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ===================================cs.com
> ===================================matronics.com/contribution
> ==================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 09, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
The pitot system does not need to be as leak free as the static system.
Small leaks have little effect on the airspeed indication. It operates
at very low pressure, a few inches of water. The static system is the
only one that needs to meet the standard below.
Kelly
On 7/9/2012 8:44 AM, thomas sargent wrote:
> The pitot system follows the plans. Van's pitot tube with aluminum
> fitting to AL tubing which then mates to poly tubing which then
> connects to instruments using nyloseal fittings. I could tighten many
> of the nyloseal fittings with my fingers - so I did. I suspect the
> leaks are at the point where the fittings screw into the instruments.
>
> On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 3:51 AM, Carl Froehlich
> > wrote:
>
> The leak spec for the static system is to draw a vacuum to
> indicate 1000' above elevation and hold. The altimeter should not
> drop more than 100' in one minute.
>
> After chasing my tail to find a static leak on my 8A, I finally
> checked each instrument separately with the panel on the bench. I
> found the face plate on the air speed indicator to be the source
> of the leak (the static port on the air speed indicator just
> connects to the case). To do this ASI leak test, connect your
> manometer to a "T", then a line to both the pitot and static
> connectors.
>
> A simple field fix is to use a very small amount for RTV around
> the glass perimeter. The more elaborate fix is to send it to an
> avionics shop - but that will most likely be more expensive than
> just replacing the ASI.
>
> Carl
>
> On Jul 9, 2012, at 2:21 AM, vanremog(at)aol.com
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the
>> outside? Inside must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
>>
>> Sorry, this should have been completed as: Outside must be
>> absolutely flawless and slick to seal with O-ring fittings and a
>> little DC4 couldn't hurt.
>> -GV
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: vanremog <vanremog(at)aol.com <mailto:vanremog(at)aol.com>>
>> To: rv-list >
>> Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 11:18 pm
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
>>
>> First of all, what types of fittings are you using? The best
>> ones have intimate sealing surfaces or ferrules.
>> What is the nature of the sealing surfaces? They should be
>> smooth and contiguous.
>> Are you sealing to the inside diameter of the tubing or the
>> outside? Inside must mate with beaded or multi barbed fittings.
>> -GV
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com <mailto:sarg314(at)gmail.com>>
>> To: rv-list >
>> Sent: Sun, Jul 8, 2012 9:21 pm
>> Subject: RV-List: pitot system leaks
>>
>> I tested the pitot system (using the water in a U-shaped tube
>> method) in my RV-6A today and found it leaking fairly badly.
>> Tightening up the various fittings helped. I'm always afraid of
>> over-tightening those plastic fittings. That improved things but
>> it still leaks down the airspeed indicator from about 106 to 100
>> knots in a couple of minutes. I assume it should be able to hold
>> constant for many minutes?
>>
>> Do people ever use any kind of sealant on these fittings? A thin
>> film of oil on the sealing surfaces perhaps?
>>
>> --
>> Tom Sargent
>> *
>>
>> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> p://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>> t=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> p://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>> *
>>
>> =========
>> /www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
>> =========
>> cs.com <http://cs.com>
>> =========
>> matronics.com/contribution <http://matronics.com/contribution>
>> =========
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2012
Subject: Re: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
From: Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com>
Joe:
Three years ago, as the time neared for first flight on my RV-7A, I asked a
friend, an RV three-timer, who had mentored me through a 6.5 year building
process, to do the first flight. I called my insurance carrier and added
him to my policy by name - it was a no-brainer - he had thousands of hours
in RVs - I had ten - putting him on my policy added not a cent to the
premium - first flight was routine and without incident - I took over from
there - just be sure whoever is doing the first flight for you is a cool
head - well experienced in RVs - call your insurance carrier - they'll want
all sorts of info - total hours, hours in RVs - ratings - etc - add
him/her to your policy by name - it's done all the time - not a big deal at
all - good luck with the first flight - hope you get your medical back soon
Cheers,
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A - N307TB
320 hours since first
flight on 8/4/09
On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 10:00 AM, jfogarty tds.net wrote:
> Joe, Call your agent and check on higher limits of liability insurance,
> also, make sure they understand that it is someone other than you flying
> off the first 40 hours. Also, check into an Umbrella policy through your
> personal lines agent. Good luck.
>
> Jim Fogarty
> Breezy Point, MN
> RV-9A building
>
> On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 10:22 AM, JohnF wrote:
>
>> **
>> Go to the AOPA web site...they have as fairly good one that you can
>> download.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com
>> *To:* RV-List
>> *Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 9:04 AM
>> *Subject:* RV-List: Waiver for another pilot flying my plane
>>
>> Gentlemen:
>>
>> My RV-A is nearly ready for its first flight. I cannot medically fly the
>> plane and another pilot(s) will be flying off the 40 hours.
>>
>> Do any of you have a waiver for other pilots to sign when they fly your
>> RV? My wife and I are nervous about this...
>>
>> Thanks...
>>
>> Joe Connell
>> Stewartville, MN
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>>
>> *
>>
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2012
Subject: Fuel cap and data plate engraving
From: Aircraft Specialty <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Just wanted to let everyone know that we are now fully up and running from
an engraving standpoint. We have the capability to do Usher Fuel Caps,
Andair Fuel Caps, and also the Newton Style "Deluxe" caps that Van's sells.
Our prices are extremely competitive and we make it easy to design your cap
online. If you don't see a style you like, or would like to do something
custom, please contact me and I will absolutely work with you to make your
caps however you like.
You can see our engraving options at
www.aircraftspecialty.com/engraving.html
Attached are pictures of engraved caps.
Steve
Aircraft Specialty
www.aircraftspecialty.com
www.kitplanehoses.com
www.kitplanemods.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 10, 2012
Subject: testing static system
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I've read a lot about static system tests, but how do you do it exactly? I
assume I tape up one static port and then attach ... what to the other
one? How do I temporarily bond a vinyl tube to a static port with no
leaks? RTV?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: testing static system
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Jul 11, 2012
Window mastic works well.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 10, 2012 11:15 pm
Subject: RV-List: testing static system
I've read a lot about static system tests, but how do you do it exactly? I
assume I tape up one static port and then attach ... what to the other one
? How do I temporarily bond a vinyl tube to a static port with no leaks?
RTV?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: testing static system
I put a test fitting in mine that I connect one of those JC Whitney brake bleeder
vacuum gizmos to.
I tape over both static fittings....
-----Original Message-----
From: thomas sargent
Sent: Jul 11, 2012 2:10 AM
Subject: RV-List: testing static system
I've read a lot about static system tests, but how do you do it exactly? I assume
I tape up one static port and then attach ... what to the other one? How
do I temporarily bond a vinyl tube to a static port with no leaks? RTV?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: testing static system
Date: Jul 11, 2012
Tom,
The best way to test the static system is by using a small automotive hand
vacuum pump (like the ones used to test carburetors). Sears used to carry
these as well as most of the auto parts stores. The vacuum pump comes with a
variety of fittings, including a suction cup that can be put directly over
the static port. Tape the opposite side static port off first, then apply a
suction (not over 1000' indicated on the altimeter) to the other side. The
static system should be able to hold the altitude within 100' for over a
minute.
One of the problems you might run into is suction leakage from around the
static port - between the static port and the skin. I had to apply a
silicone seal on the inside of the skin to avoid this issue.
All other leaks can usually be found around other fittings within the
static system. When I can't get a leak-free system, I find that breaking the
static line such that I isolate the rear of the aircraft from the front
area, it's easier to isolate the problem to specific areas.
Fred Stucklen
RV-7A N924RV 740 Hrs Flying
RV-6A N926RV 875 Hrs sold
RV-6A N925RV 2008 Hrs Sold
Time:
Subject:
testing static system
From:
thomas sargent
I've read a lot about static system tests, but how do you do it
exactly? I
assume I tape up one static port and then attach ... what to the other
one? How do I temporarily bond a vinyl tube to a static port with no
leaks? RTV?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: testing static system
From: Kevin Horton <khorton02(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2012
How do you verify that your test fitting doesn't leak when it is not in use?
Kevin Horton
On 2012-07-11, at 07:22 , Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> I put a test fitting in mine that I connect one of those JC Whitney brake bleeder
vacuum gizmos to.
>
> I tape over both static fittings....
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: thomas sargent
> Sent: Jul 11, 2012 2:10 AM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: testing static system
>
> I've read a lot about static system tests, but how do you do it exactly? I assume
I tape up one static port and then attach ... what to the other one? How
do I temporarily bond a vinyl tube to a static port with no leaks? RTV?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: testing static system
Keep several things in mind. You do not want to pull more than 1000 ft
on your altimeter. Lowering the pressure on the static side without
similar reduction to the pitot puts a pressure on the airspeed
indicator. Also, other than ensuring you have a leak free system, you
cannot certify the static system. You will need to have the system
certified if you want to fly anywhere an encoder is required, like Class
B or controlled airspace above 10,000 ft. It takes a shop with a repair
station license to certify your transponder, encoder and static system.
Doubly so if you want to fly IFR. One of those few items you can't do
for yourself on a homebuilt.
On 7/11/2012 4:40 AM, Fred Stucklen wrote:
>
> Tom,
>
> The best way to test the static system is by using a small automotive
> hand vacuum pump (like the ones used to test carburetors). Sears used
> to carry these as well as most of the auto parts stores. The vacuum
> pump comes with a variety of fittings, including a suction cup that
> can be put directly over the static port. Tape the opposite side
> static port off first, then apply a suction (not over 1000 indicated
> on the altimeter) to the other side. The static system should be able
> to hold the altitude within 100 for over a minute.
>
> One of the problems you might run into is suction leakage from around
> the static port between the static port and the skin. I had to apply
> a silicone seal on the inside of the skin to avoid this issue.
>
> All other leaks can usually be found around other fittings within the
> static system. When I cant get a leak-free system, I find that
> breaking the static line such that I isolate the rear of the aircraft
> from the front area, its easier to isolate the problem to specific areas.
>
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 11, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: testing static system
When I get the official check, they don't use the test port - as they have their
own procedure...I didn't know that when I put the test port in.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Kevin Horton <khorton02(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jul 11, 2012 8:51 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: testing static system
>
>
>How do you verify that your test fitting doesn't leak when it is not in use?
>
>Kevin Horton
>
>On 2012-07-11, at 07:22 , Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>> I put a test fitting in mine that I connect one of those JC Whitney brake bleeder
vacuum gizmos to.
>>
>> I tape over both static fittings....
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: thomas sargent
>> Sent: Jul 11, 2012 2:10 AM
>> To: rv-list
>> Subject: RV-List: testing static system
>>
>> I've read a lot about static system tests, but how do you do it exactly? I
assume I tape up one static port and then attach ... what to the other one? How
do I temporarily bond a vinyl tube to a static port with no leaks? RTV?
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engraving clarification
From: Steve T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2012
I have received many inquiries and I just wanted to clarify that the Usher c
aps we engrave are the standard caps that Vans uses on all their models. In
addition, we can do Andair caps and also the Newton deluxe caps that vans s
ells.
If there are any other types, we are happy to accommodate you. It may add a
few days to the turnaround as we will need to make a custom
Holder but will do this at no additional cost to our customers.
Have a great afternoon.
Hope to meet some of you at Oshkosh!
Steve
Www.aircraftspecialty.com
Www.kitplanemods.com
Www.kitplanehoses.com
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Glitch that affected some customers
From: Steve T <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 11, 2012
To those of you who placed orders for fuel cap engraving, thank you!
For those that tried and experienced a technical glitch, the problem has been resolved
and ordering is again available.
Have a great day
Steve :)
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2012
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Lyc cylinder service shop?
Can anyone recommend a cylinder shop that will basically do a valve job
on a cylinder? I've got cylinders that are basically in great shape with
good (mid 70's) compression, but I suspect worn valve guides. I've
already got them off the motor, so I'd like to just get the top topped,
if you know what I mean.
A shop in the southeast would be a plus (less shipping time/expense).
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Lyc cylinder service shop?
Zepyr in Zephyrhills FL is one. There also is Tri something or other in NC.
On 7/12/2012 7:25 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a cylinder shop that will basically do a valve
> job on a cylinder? I've got cylinders that are basically in great
> shape with good (mid 70's) compression, but I suspect worn valve
> guides. I've already got them off the motor, so I'd like to just get
> the top topped, if you know what I mean.
>
> A shop in the southeast would be a plus (less shipping time/expense).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Lyc cylinder service shop?
Date: Jul 12, 2012
Try Zephyr engines in Zephyr Hills, FL.
Good people and a good reputation.
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie England
To: RV list
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2012 10:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lyc cylinder service shop?
Can anyone recommend a cylinder shop that will basically do a valve
job on a cylinder? I've got cylinders that are basically in great shape
with good (mid 70's) compression, but I suspect worn valve guides. I've
already got them off the motor, so I'd like to just get the top topped,
if you know what I mean.
A shop in the southeast would be a plus (less shipping time/expense).
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 12, 2012
Subject: Re: Lyc cylinder service shop?
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
I think the shop at BUY could do it.
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Jul 12, 2012 10:27 PM, "Charlie England" wrote:
> Can anyone recommend a cylinder shop that will basically do a valve job
> on a cylinder? I've got cylinders that are basically in great shape with
> good (mid 70's) compression, but I suspect worn valve guides. I've already
> got them off the motor, so I'd like to just get the top topped, if you know
> what I mean.
>
> A shop in the southeast would be a plus (less shipping time/expense).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ellis H McGaughy <Ellis.H.McGaughy(at)usa.dupont.com>
Subject: Plastic Brake Lines
Date: Jul 13, 2012
Any real world experience with Vans plastic brake lines? One thing is
for sure, they are light and cheap. I am just wondering about
connection leaks and longevity.
Thanks
Ellis.
RV-7a fuse
Sent from my iPad
This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail,
in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by
return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly
and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does
not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance
of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the
use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for
transfers of data to third parties.
Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean
http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 13, 2012
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic Brake Lines
Howdy Ellis,
I had the plastic ones from the reservoir to the master cylinders and
had several instances of leakage over the course of some years. This is
on the no pressure side. I re-did my reservoir lines with flex hoses and
that is the sure fire leak cure. The brass fittings work better than the
nylon ones, but I still wound up with leaks over time.
Using the plastic lines for the high pressure side is for sure going to
leak at some point. Whatever you do, don't use plastic all the way to
the calipers. It gets hot down there and you'll wind up with a leak and
a fire. My advice is to use flex lines everywhere there is movement and
the aluminum lines where you can. I went with -3 flex lines for an even
harder pedal feel. Bonaco will make them for you with clear plastic
sheath on for abrasion protection. Ask for Brett @ 909-985-3429. You can
get -3 hoses premade (no sheath) at Pegasus Racing and other sources as
well.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
On 7/13/2012 10:54 AM, Ellis H McGaughy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ellis H McGaughy
>
>
> Any real world experience with Vans plastic brake lines? One thing is
> for sure, they are light and cheap. I am just wondering about
> connection leaks and longevity.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ellis.
> RV-7a fuse
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
> information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
> applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
> formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail,
> in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by
> return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly
> and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does
> not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance
> of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the
> use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for
> transfers of data to third parties.
>
> Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean
>
> http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 13, 2012
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic Brake Lines
On 07/13/2012 12:54 PM, Ellis H McGaughy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ellis H McGaughy
>
>
> Any real world experience with Vans plastic brake lines? One thing is
> for sure, they are light and cheap. I am just wondering about
> connection leaks and longevity.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ellis.
> RV-7a fuse
>
IIRC, the 1st -4 that I bought had plastic lines, & I never had a
problem. The plane had ~700 hrs on it when I sold it. But I'm based on a
long grass strip, so I have a bit of help with stopping.
I've heard stories of heavy brake use melting the lines followed in some
cases by fire. Of course, I also have a friend who had an aluminum line
fatigue & blow a hole in the line inside the pant, causing a fire.
The -4 I'm flying now has aluminum lines in Van's stock configuration.
No problems with the lines with over 1100 hrs on the plane.
Don't know if that helps much....
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charlie" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Gps alternates
Date: Jul 13, 2012
My 296 is no longer tracking correctly at times, I am ready to upgrade.
Only thing I have against newer garmins is the small screen size. I had
ipad with foreflight for a while, but it wont drive my digitrac, and
overheats in cockpit and shuts off anyway. Anybody happy with another
type they are usingthat drives autopilot? Charlie H 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Gps alternates
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jul 13, 2012
Garmin 696
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 13, 2012, at 2:57 PM, "charlie" wrote:
> My 296 is no longer tracking correctly at times, I am ready to upgrade. On
ly thing I have against newer garmins is the small screen size. I had ipad w
ith foreflight for a while, but it wont drive my digitrac, and overheats in c
ockpit and shuts off anyway. Anybody happy with another type they are usingt
hat drives autopilot? Charlie H 6A
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Plastic Brake Lines
Date: Jul 13, 2012
10 years using the stock Van=92s plastic lines on the low pressure side
in my
8A (per plan). No leaks. I did use the brass ferrule on the fittings
and
recommend using them. The high pressure side is =BC=94 aluminum tubing
per
plans.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2012 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plastic Brake Lines
Howdy Ellis,
I had the plastic ones from the reservoir to the master cylinders and
had
several instances of leakage over the course of some years. This is on
the
no pressure side. I re-did my reservoir lines with flex hoses and that
is
the sure fire leak cure. The brass fittings work better than the nylon
ones,
but I still wound up with leaks over time.
Using the plastic lines for the high pressure side is for sure going to
leak
at some point. Whatever you do, don't use plastic all the way to the
calipers. It gets hot down there and you'll wind up with a leak and a
fire.
My advice is to use flex lines everywhere there is movement and the
aluminum
lines where you can. I went with -3 flex lines for an even harder pedal
feel. Bonaco will make them for you with clear plastic sheath on for
abrasion protection. Ask for Brett @ 909-985-3429. You can get -3 hoses
premade (no sheath) at Pegasus Racing and other sources as well.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
On 7/13/2012 10:54 AM, Ellis H McGaughy wrote:
Any real world experience with Vans plastic brake lines? One thing
is
for sure, they are light and cheap. I am just wondering about
connection leaks and longevity.
Thanks
Ellis.
RV-7a fuse
Sent from my iPad
This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail,
in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by
return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly
and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does
not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance
of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the
use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for
transfers of data to third parties.
Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean
http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 13, 2012
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Lyc cylinder service shop?
OK, that's 2 for Zephyr & one for the one at BUY. I'll try to check with
both.
Not any in Memphis or New Orleans are there? That's close enough to
create an excuse to drive/play. :-) (From Jackson MS)
How about an online copy of the Lyc parts catalog for the old narrow
deck O-320's? I've found 2 or 3 versions for the wide deck 320's, but
none so far for my O-320 B2A.
Thanks again,
Charlie
'Save the date': 1st Saturday in November is the Slobovia Pumpkin Drop
here at MS71.
On 07/12/2012 09:40 PM, Larry Bowen wrote:
>
> I think the shop at BUY could do it.
>
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> On Jul 12, 2012 10:27 PM, "Charlie England" > wrote:
>
> Can anyone recommend a cylinder shop that will basically do a
> valve job on a cylinder? I've got cylinders that are basically in
> great shape with good (mid 70's) compression, but I suspect worn
> valve guides. I've already got them off the motor, so I'd like to
> just get the top topped, if you know what I mean.
>
> A shop in the southeast would be a plus (less shipping time/expense).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic Brake Lines
Date: Jul 14, 2012
I originally installed Van's plastic lines for the passengers brakes (inside
cockpit) per the then convention for an Rv-6A back in 1994. I replaced them
before ever flying, when I tugged on a supposedly secured connection and
the line pulled out - yes, the kernel was installed. I replace them with
regular hose brake lines.
As you know, Charlie, I had a brake fire in which I almost lost the
aircraft - but, that incident was associated with an apparent fatigue brake
in the loop of aluminum around the lower landing gear to absorb the flexing
as the brake caliper road in and out. After that, I replace the gear lines
with stainless steel Teflon brake lines. I personally recommend going with
the -4 ss Teflon line brake lines. They certainly cost more and are a bit
heavier - but, peace of mind is worth it.
Ed
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2012 2:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Plastic Brake Lines
>
> On 07/13/2012 12:54 PM, Ellis H McGaughy wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Ellis H
>> McGaughy
>>
>>
>> Any real world experience with Vans plastic brake lines? One thing is
>> for sure, they are light and cheap. I am just wondering about
>> connection leaks and longevity.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ellis.
>> RV-7a fuse
>>
> IIRC, the 1st -4 that I bought had plastic lines, & I never had a problem.
> The plane had ~700 hrs on it when I sold it. But I'm based on a long grass
> strip, so I have a bit of help with stopping.
>
> I've heard stories of heavy brake use melting the lines followed in some
> cases by fire. Of course, I also have a friend who had an aluminum line
> fatigue & blow a hole in the line inside the pant, causing a fire.
>
> The -4 I'm flying now has aluminum lines in Van's stock configuration. No
> problems with the lines with over 1100 hrs on the plane.
>
> Don't know if that helps much....
>
> Charlie
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Warren Brecheisen" <n146wb(at)cfu.net>
Subject: Pro Seal Solvent
Date: Jul 14, 2012
Does anyone know of a cleaner or solvent that is readily available that will
cut Pro Seal?
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2012
Subject: Re: Pro Seal Solvent
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Try MEK.
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Jul 14, 2012 8:07 AM, "Warren Brecheisen" wrote:
> Does anyone know of a cleaner or solvent that is readily available that
> will cut Pro Seal?****
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pro Seal Solvent
From: Jeff Orear <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Date: Jul 14, 2012
I had very good results with xylol. You should be able to find it in most h
ardware stores.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A. N782P
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 14, 2012, at 7:16 AM, Larry Bowen wrote:
> Try MEK.
>
> Larry Bowen
> Larry(at)BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
> On Jul 14, 2012 8:07 AM, "Warren Brecheisen" wrote:
> Does anyone know of a cleaner or solvent that is readily available that wi
ll cut Pro Seal?
>
>
>
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2012
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal Solvent
On 07/14/2012 07:05 AM, Warren Brecheisen wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a cleaner or solvent that is readily available
> that will cut Pro Seal?
>
>
A lot of people (including me) use MEK, but IIRC, Flamemaster recommends
Toluene (Methyl Benzene).
http://www.flamemaster.com/index.html
That's the solvent in the sealant.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 14, 2012
Subject: Re: Urgent: EAA Members - Action!
Regulatory Advocacy to me is the most important thing EAA does, by that I
mean protecting our ability to build homebuilt aircraft with the least
encumbrances possible.
I guess the thing I'm most concerned about is, would the new management of
EAA take as seriously the threat to homebuilding that was presented when
the FAA was reviewing the 51% rule?
My guess is probably not, as demonstrated by the loss of the ability for
instructors to charge for instruction in their own homebuilts by being an
EAA member, instructing an EAA member.
It used to be that anyone who was an EAA member, instructor and owned a
homebuilt could charge for instruction but that loophole in the rules
quietly expired. Now an instructor has to go through a lengthy letter of
deviation authority process which is not standardized across the FSDOs.
There used to be a guy in Florida that you could get a private multi engine
ticket in an Aircam... not anymore.
I think that I'm throwing my lot in with these guys.
Bill
N84WJ, RV-8, 791hrs.
rv-8.blogspot.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Urgent: EAA Members - Action!
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
Hi Jason,
Thank you for your time in Afganistan and for sacrificing a good
portion of your life for those of us here typing e-mails.
Pascal hit a few key area, but there are a few more that should be
brought up as well.
The EAA debate has been a long time coming. It actually goes all the
way back to Paul Poberezny when there was a movement to remove him.
But in the past 3-4 years, the frustration with EAA has reached the
boiling point for many members.
Long story short, since Rod Hightower has taken over the organization
the charter and image of EAA has made a dramatic shift away from their
core values. The EAA has become focused on being the next AOPA
politcally and they're focused on the money that can be made through
AirVenture. I think it's great that AirVenture represents a strong
revenue stream for the organization. But the organization has become
focused on milking that stream and the memership community has paid
the price. If 100% of the members disappeared tomorrow, the EAA would
still exist based on the airshow. So the members are now second class
citizens in the organization.
Our efforts to participate in this years election were blocked by EAA
by being unresponsive and ignoring our requests for a simple ballot to
participate. This is a right that is entitled to the membership
community within the bylaws. But this right has not been made
available to the membership. As a result, the EAA holds nearly all of
the membership votes. It's like the fox in the hen house in some
regards.
I love the EAA. I am passionate about it. I am a lifetime member. I
have served as a chapter VP and President. As I sit here right now,
I'm wearing a red AirVenture 2009 polo. I love the legacy EAA
culture, I love the EAA brand. I really do care a lot about EAA.
Since Rod Hightower has taken over the organization, the EAA has seen
nearly 50 employees walk out the door from the toxic environment that
Rod has created. These are important people like Charlie Becker, Adam
Smith, Barry Elk, etc. Just yesterday, they lost HG Frautschy who is
an Executive Director who has spent 22 years as an employee of the
organization. The EAA culture as we know it is under attack from
within.
You might know Dick Kohler, he has taught a number of EAA SportAir
workshops and he is passionate about EAA. You should read his
comments at this link because he pretty much captures the environment
that Rod has created.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=675101&postcount=122
Additional information can be found at this link containing comments
from EAA Board Members who have resigned. Here is a key comment if
you don't go read the entire link.
===========
As Mike Dale put it was time for the Board to "grow up and start
having the CEO work for the Board". I cannot be part of a rubber stamp
Board whose prime loyalty is to the Founder and President rather than
EAA members.
===========
http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?do=main.textpost&id=7d613991-adcb-426a-a210-5b7ee4112049
I hope you will consider supporting our effort. We won't have enough
votes to change this election, but we will have enough to put a shot
across the bow of EAA's leadership.
Thanks,
Phil
>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Urgent: EAA Members - Action!
> From: Phillip Perry <philperry9(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> Hi Jason,
>
> Thank you for your time in Afganistan and for sacrificing a good
> portion of your life for those of us here typing e-mails.
>
> Pascal hit a few key area, but there are a few more that should be
> brought up as well.
>
> The EAA debate has been a long time coming. It actually goes all the
> way back to Paul Poberezny when there was a movement to remove him.
> But in the past 3-4 years, the frustration with EAA has reached the
> boiling point for many members.
>
> Long story short, since Rod Hightower has taken over the organization
> the charter and image of EAA has made a dramatic shift away from their
> core values. The EAA has become focused on being the next AOPA
> politcally and they're focused on the money that can be made through
> AirVenture. I think it's great that AirVenture represents a strong
> revenue stream for the organization. But the organization has become
> focused on milking that stream and the memership community has paid
> the price. If 100% of the members disappeared tomorrow, the EAA would
> still exist based on the airshow. So the members are now second class
> citizens in the organization.
>
> Our efforts to participate in this years election were blocked by EAA
> by being unresponsive and ignoring our requests for a simple ballot to
> participate. This is a right that is entitled to the membership
> community within the bylaws. But this right has not been made
> available to the membership. As a result, the EAA holds nearly all of
> the membership votes. It's like the fox in the hen house in some
> regards.
>
> I love the EAA. I am passionate about it. I am a lifetime member. I
> have served as a chapter VP and President. As I sit here right now,
> I'm wearing a red AirVenture 2009 polo. I love the legacy EAA
> culture, I love the EAA brand. I really do care a lot about EAA.
>
> Since Rod Hightower has taken over the organization, the EAA has seen
> nearly 50 employees walk out the door from the toxic environment that
> Rod has created. These are important people like Charlie Becker, Adam
> Smith, Barry Elk, etc. Just yesterday, they lost HG Frautschy who is
> an Executive Director who has spent 22 years as an employee of the
> organization. The EAA culture as we know it is under attack from
> within.
>
> You might know Dick Kohler, he has taught a number of EAA SportAir
> workshops and he is passionate about EAA. You should read his
> comments at this link because he pretty much captures the environment
> that Rod has created.
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=675101&postcount=122
>
> Additional information can be found at this link containing comments
> from EAA Board Members who have resigned. Here is a key comment if
> you don't go read the entire link.
>
> ===========
> As Mike Dale put it was time for the Board to "grow up and start
> having the CEO work for the Board". I cannot be part of a rubber stamp
> Board whose prime loyalty is to the Founder and President rather than
> EAA members.
> ===========
>
> http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?do=main.textpost&id=7d613991-adcb-426a-a210-5b7ee4112049
>
>
> I hope you will consider supporting our effort. We won't have enough
> votes to change this election, but we will have enough to put a shot
> across the bow of EAA's leadership.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
> On 7/13/12, Pascal wrote:
> > Jason;
> > First off, that you for the sacrifice to leave the comforts and safety of
> > the US for our battle in Afghanistan. Its hard, been there, not
> Afghinstan
> > but another operation in 1990-1991. Thank you for your service!
> > I think you ask a very good question. Phil may not be able to answer it
> > completely but my initial thought is the folks writing articles for Sport
> > aviation are ex flying magazine writers who have no idea of what
> building a
> > plane is about, there was a meeting and their has been that combined
> > effort of AOPA and EAA to represent us with Lsa and other general flying
> > issues, good idea, sure! I would like to see the EAA fight for
> homebuilders
> > and not general aviation however.
> > My corporation does the same thing EAA does. Phil just wants members to
> have
> > more say on who is voted in versus the big kahuna at EAA himself.
> >
> > From: Jason Wodack
> > Sent: Friday, July 13, 2012 1:11 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Urgent: EAA Members - Action!
> >
> > Phil,
> > I've been in Afghanistan for the last year, and therefore out of the loop
> > for a while. I was just curious about what I was missing that has caused
> > such a reaction.
> >
> > I've seen claims of EAA not supporting home builders, and since I'm
> about to
> > start on an RV-10 at the end of this deployment, that concerns me. I was
> > hoping you(or someone) could bring me up to speed on what I have missed,
> and
> > what the issues are that we are having.
> >
> > I admire your convition, and your willingness to take action. I do n't
> want
> > to seem like I'm challenging you, but I do want to be well informed
> before I
> > make a decision,
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jason
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 2:44 AM, Phillip Perry
> > wrote:
> >
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > If many of you follow =VAF=, you're probably aware that there is a
> > campaign within the EAA Membership community to participate in the
> upcoming
> > election of the EAA Board of Directors. We figured that instead of just
> > complaining, we should actually participate in the democratic elections.
> >
> > This simply idea led to more than 1 month of stone walling from the
> EAA.
> > Still to this day, they have not provided a simple document that allows
> > their members to participate in the election. So we copied their
> language
> > that assigns the proxy rights to Rod Hightower and changed the name on
> it to
> > reflect me. The EAA has admitted that this is a document that they can't
> > turn down at the elections in a few weeks.
> >
> > In the past there were 3 choices for EAA members to participate in the
> > election:
> >
> > 1) They could choose not to participate.
> > 2) They could show up in person to cast their vote at the annual
> business
> > meeting.
> > 3) They could assign their vote to Rod Hightower. (This is a check
> box on
> > your annual renewal)
> >
> >
> > Long story short, the elections would look like 13 votes for some
> members
> > and 16,000 votes for those that Hightower wanted. So they ended up being
> > appointments and not elections by the members.
> >
> > I am receiving proxy forms from all over the globe and if you are
> > frustrated with the EAA, I would appreciate it if you would do that same
> > thing. The form can be found at this link.
> >
> >
> > http://dl.dropbox.com/u/26343935/EAA%20Member%20Proxy%20Statement.pdf
> >
> >
> > You can send me a scanned copy or the original to:
> >
> > Phillip W. Perry
> > C/O David Carr
> > 1100 W Monroe St
> > Austin, TX 78704
> >
> >
> > Here are the votes we will be placing and the justification for
> selecting
> > them:
> >
> >
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=678549&postcount=68
> >
> >
> > Today the EAA retaliated against their members and sent out a link
> asking
> > them to assign proxy votes to Rod Hightower. Please don't give total
> > control of EAA to the current membership and choose to put control of the
> > EAA back in the hands of the membership. Here's some details on that
> > message:
> >
> > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=679285
> >
> >
> > Please don't assign your proxy to the EAA Leadership, and if you feel
> > compelled I would be honored to carry your proxy vote forward at the
> > business meeting at AirVenture. This is the first time (that I'm aware
> of)
> > in the history of EAA that the members have found a way to legitimately
> > participate.
> >
> > We need to get this word out to everyone who supports the effort ASAP.
> So
> > if you agree, please highlight this proxy effort and share the message on
> > every message board you can before some unknowing soul gives his vote to
> Rod
> > Hightower and his buddies.
> >
> > We are going to be continuing this effort going into 2013 too and can
> use
> > your support and even you active participation.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Phil Perry
> >
> > RV-10 #40750
> > EAA Lifetime Member
> >
> >
> > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> > tp://forums.matronics.com
> > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 14, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal Solvent
Ding, ding. We have a winner!
If you are just cleaning up, MEK is okay with all the precautions about
skin protection, not inhaling it, etc.
If you want to thin the sealant, toluene is correct.
If you just want a brushable consistency, get the A compound instead of
the B compound..it already has the correct amount of toluene in it.
A compound is better for covering rivet heads and as a topcoat over B
compound than using thinned B compound. Less likely to get air bubbles
and pin holes.
Kelly
Veteran of stripping and resealing Mooney fuel tanks
On 7/14/2012 6:49 AM, Charlie England wrote:
> On 07/14/2012 07:05 AM, Warren Brecheisen wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone know of a cleaner or solvent that is readily available
>> that will cut Pro Seal?
>>
>>
> A lot of people (including me) use MEK, but IIRC, Flamemaster
> recommends Toluene (Methyl Benzene).
>
> http://www.flamemaster.com/index.html
>
> That's the solvent in the sealant.
>
> Charlie
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Ensing" <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RV flyover
Date: Jul 14, 2012
Three RV-3s doing the flyover during the national anthym at the NASCAR
truck race in Newton Iowa to night!! COOL!
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2012
From: Tim Lewis <TimRVator(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal Solvent
I've heard good things about Polygone. Apparently it's made for this
purpose.
www.rpm-technology.com
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
Warren Brecheisen said the following on 7/14/2012 8:05 AM:
>
> Does anyone know of a cleaner or solvent that is readily available
> that will cut Pro Seal?
>
> * *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Proseal Solvent
Date: Jul 15, 2012
For those in Canada where MEK is hard to find lacquer thinner contains MEK
and Toluene. It makes the Proseal runny enough you can pour it in the
filler cap to fix leaks, and it sets up nice and hard. Apparently MEK is a
key ingredient in manufacturing crystal meth or something so it's not
readily available.
Ian Brown, Bromont, QC
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Pro Seal Solvent
Polygone is for removing cured pro-seal, available in gel and liquid
formulations. It breaks down the chemistry of the pro-seal and is used
to clean out a tank before resealing. It is NOT a thinner, and should
only be used where you want to remove cured sealant, not just a cleanup.
On 7/15/2012 4:44 AM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> I've heard good things about Polygone. Apparently it's made for this
> purpose.
>
> www.rpm-technology.com
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2012
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
My -4 (purchased) has the right master cylinder installed inverted,
which makes it impossible to bleed without removing it's mounting screws
& temporarily flipping it 'right side up'.
I can't find the plans set to see if this is the required mounting
position. Do most of you have both master cylinders installed rods-up,
or is my mounting according to plans? I'm suspecting clearance issues.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au>
Date: Jul 16, 2012
Subject: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
Hi Charlie,
Mine are both rod end up and I believe that this is the way its listed in t
he plans, I did have to play around with mountings and make them fit proper
ly but this was only a minor adjustment with a file.
Cheers
John Morrissey
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Monday, 16 July 2012 10:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
My -4 (purchased) has the right master cylinder installed inverted, which m
akes it impossible to bleed without removing it's mounting screws & tempora
rily flipping it 'right side up'.
I can't find the plans set to see if this is the required mounting positio
n. Do most of you have both master cylinders installed rods-up, or is my mo
unting according to plans? I'm suspecting clearance issues.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 15, 2012
From: Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
Thanks, John. That's encouraging news. I'll work on that issue before
proceeding with the other issues.
Charlie
On 07/15/2012 07:21 PM, John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au wrote:
>
> Hi Charlie,
>
> Mine are both rod end up and I believe that this is the way its listed
> in the plans, I did have to play around with mountings and make them
> fit properly but this was only a minor adjustment with a file.
>
> Cheers
>
> John Morrissey
>
> *From:*owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Charlie England
> *Sent:* Monday, 16 July 2012 10:02 AM
> *To:* RV list
> *Subject:* RV-List: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
>
> My -4 (purchased) has the right master cylinder installed inverted,
> which makes it impossible to bleed without removing it's mounting
> screws & temporarily flipping it 'right side up'.
> I can't find the plans set to see if this is the required mounting
> position. Do most of you have both master cylinders installed rods-up,
> or is my mounting according to plans? I'm suspecting clearance issues.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
> * *
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dan" <dkol2003(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
Date: Jul 16, 2012
Charlie,
That is the way they are designed . If you do a search on VAF you will find
a few threads on how to bleed them top down without having to flip the
cylinders. I have done it once and it seemed to work fairly well.
Regards,
Dan
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 9:32 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
My -4 (purchased) has the right master cylinder installed inverted, which
makes it impossible to bleed without removing it's mounting screws &
temporarily flipping it 'right side up'.
I can't find the plans set to see if this is the required mounting
position. Do most of you have both master cylinders installed rods-up, or is
my mounting according to plans? I'm suspecting clearance issues.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
From: <John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au>
Date: Jul 16, 2012
Subject: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
Hi Charlie,
Go to this link and you will see a few photos of Jerry Isler's installation
. I pretty much copied this arrangement. Works well so far!
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=30510
Cheers
john
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Monday, 16 July 2012 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
Thanks, John. That's encouraging news. I'll work on that issue before proce
eding with the other issues.
Charlie
On 07/15/2012 07:21 PM, John.Morrissey(at)csiro.au wrote:
Hi Charlie,
Mine are both rod end up and I believe that this is the way its listed in t
he plans, I did have to play around with mountings and make them fit proper
ly but this was only a minor adjustment with a file.
Cheers
John Morrissey
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matron
ics.com> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie E
ngland
Sent: Monday, 16 July 2012 10:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Brakes question for RV-4 owners
My -4 (purchased) has the right master cylinder installed inverted, which m
akes it impossible to bleed without removing it's mounting screws & tempora
rily flipping it 'right side up'.
I can't find the plans set to see if this is the required mounting positio
n. Do most of you have both master cylinders installed rods-up, or is my mo
unting according to plans? I'm suspecting clearance issues.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 16, 2012
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I am still getting no where in testing my static system (or the static
system leaks horribly). Does the connection to the VSI have to be sealed
off before testing?
I tried bonding a vinyl tube (perpendicular) to a piece of heavy clear
plastic packing tape with GE silicone sealer. I cut a hole in the tape to
open it to the tube and then pressed that onto the fuselage with the
opening over the static port. I put a piece of packing tape over the other
static port and sucked on the tube. I could get the altimeter and VSI to
respond OK, but couldn't hold a deflection at all. I had to keep sucking a
lot of air thru the tube. Air might have been leaking around the rivet
that forms the static port where it penetrates the fuselage. When I stick
the tape+tube down to a flat smooth metal surface, it seems to seal well.
Some one said they used a veterinary syringe to draw a vacuum. How did you
get that to seal to the static port? The opening in the port is 1/16". All
of the syringes I have are significantly larger than that.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
From: Kevin Horton <khorton02(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 16, 2012
On 2012-07-16, at 11:39 , thomas sargent wrote:
> I am still getting no where in testing my static system (or the static system
leaks horribly). Does the connection to the VSI have to be sealed off before
testing?
>
> I tried bonding a vinyl tube (perpendicular) to a piece of heavy clear plastic
packing tape with GE silicone sealer. I cut a hole in the tape to open it to
the tube and then pressed that onto the fuselage with the opening over the static
port. I put a piece of packing tape over the other static port and sucked
on the tube. I could get the altimeter and VSI to respond OK, but couldn't
hold a deflection at all. I had to keep sucking a lot of air thru the tube.
Air might have been leaking around the rivet that forms the static port where
it penetrates the fuselage. When I stick the tape+tube down to a flat smooth
metal surface, it seems to seal well.
>
> Some one said they used a veterinary syringe to draw a vacuum. How did you get
that to seal to the static port? The opening in the port is 1/16". All of the
syringes I have are significantly larger than that.
>
>
There is no need to seal off the VSI. But any of the pitot-static flight instruments
could have a leak.
It may be easiest to go at this piecemeal, only testing a small part of your system
at a time so you can narrow down where the leak might be. You could disconnect
and plug the forward end of the static line that comes from the rear fuselage
to the instrument panel. Then see if you still have a leak. Then try
a leak check on just the instrument panel portion of the system to see if that
part is OK.
--
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: pitot system leaks
Date: Jul 17, 2012
The vertical velocity indicator needs to be clamped or blocked. That
instrument has a =9Ccalibrated=9D leak in it. It=99s
the difference between the calibrated leak and pressure coming from the
static port as the plane ascends or descends that cause the needle to
deflect. As the plane continues to ascend or descent there will
continue to be a pressure differential. Once the plane levels off the
static pressure becomes constant. The calibrated leak will then slowly
match the static pressure and the needle will slowly return to zero. If
there is no calibrated leak, the VSI would act like an altimeter...
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I am still getting no where in testing my static system (or the static
system leaks horribly). Does the connection to the VSI have to be sealed
off before testing?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
From: Kevin Horton <khorton02(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 17, 2012
The "calibrated leak" in the VSI is internal to the VSI. It is not a leak between
the VSI and ambient pressure. The only way air can get into or out of a serviceable
VSI is at the connection to the static system.
There is no need to disconnect the VSI to do a static system leak check. I just
had my system checked by an avionics shop a few weeks ago. It passed with zero
leaks, without disconnecting anything.
Kevin Horton
On 2012-07-17, at 10:38 , wrote:
> The vertical velocity indicator needs to be clamped or blocked. That instrument
has a calibrated leak in it. Its the difference between the calibrated leak
and pressure coming from the static port as the plane ascends or descends that
cause the needle to deflect. As the plane continues to ascend or descent
there will continue to be a pressure differential. Once the plane levels off
the static pressure becomes constant. The calibrated leak will then slowly match
the static pressure and the needle will slowly return to zero. If there is
no calibrated leak, the VSI would act like an altimeter...
>
> Joe Connell
> Stewartville, MN
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>
> I am still getting no where in testing my static system (or the static
> system leaks horribly). Does the connection to the VSI have to be sealed
> off before testing?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: pitot system leaks
From: Brian Alley <n320wt(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Jul 17, 2012
Good point, static system instruments AI, Alt and VSI are closed systems. Otherwise
they would not work in a pressurized aircraft. There should not be anything
disconnect during calibration, but troubleshooting a problem is a different
situation!
Sent from my iPhone
Brian Alley
carbonfibercomposites.net
304-395-4932
On Jul 17, 2012, at 11:08 AM, Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> The "calibrated leak" in the VSI is internal to the VSI. It is not a leak between
the VSI and ambient pressure. The only way air can get into or out of a
serviceable VSI is at the connection to the static system.
>
> There is no need to disconnect the VSI to do a static system leak check. I just
had my system checked by an avionics shop a few weeks ago. It passed with
zero leaks, without disconnecting anything.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
>
> On 2012-07-17, at 10:38 , wrote:
>
>> The vertical velocity indicator needs to be clamped or blocked. That instrument
has a calibrated leak in it. Its the difference between the calibrated leak
and pressure coming from the static port as the plane ascends or descends
that cause the needle to deflect. As the plane continues to ascend or descent
there will continue to be a pressure differential. Once the plane levels off
the static pressure becomes constant. The calibrated leak will then slowly match
the static pressure and the needle will slowly return to zero. If there
is no calibrated leak, the VSI would act like an altimeter...
>>
>> Joe Connell
>> Stewartville, MN
>>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
>> From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>>
>> I am still getting no where in testing my static system (or the static
>> system leaks horribly). Does the connection to the VSI have to be sealed
>> off before testing?
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: pitot system leaks
Date: Jul 18, 2012
=9CUpon further review=9D I now realize my VSI analysis was
in error. Sorry about the bad scoop I was giving out, guys...
Joe
Subject: Re: RV-List: pitot system leaks
From: Kevin Horton <khorton02(at)gmail.com>
The "calibrated leak" in the VSI is internal to the VSI. It is not a
leak between
the VSI and ambient pressure. The only way air can get into or out of a
serviceable
VSI is at the connection to the static system.
There is no need to disconnect the VSI to do a static system leak check.
I just
had my system checked by an avionics shop a few weeks ago. It passed
with zero
leaks, without disconnecting anything.
Kevin Horton
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charlie" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: 696/296 power/data cable accessory
Date: Jul 18, 2012
I am planning to buy a 696 and was wondering if any one on here knows
weather my 296 power data cable will fit the 696 or willl I have to buy
one?? Charlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bigdog(at)bentwing.com" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com>
Subject: 696/296 power/data cable accessory
Date: Jul 18, 2012
Sorry, you'll need a new one for the 696. The 796 is even worse - there's n
o plug. The equivalent to the power data cable is a mounting bracket with a
cable having bare ends. I think/hope I was smart when I wired my 396 cable
. I used mating DB9 connectors from the power data cable to the aircraft.
Hopefully there are equivalent wires in the 796 cable and all I need to do
is get the pin-out correct. I haven't gone panel diving yet but hope it wor
ks as intended.
Regards,
Greg Young
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro
nics.com] On Behalf Of charlie
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 5:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: 696/296 power/data cable accessory
I am planning to buy a 696 and was wondering if any one on here knows weath
er my 296 power data cable will fit the 696 or willl I have to buy one?? Ch
arlie H
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott R. Shook" <scott(at)n696js.com>
Subject: Aircraft Part Fell From Sky
Date: Jul 20, 2012
Listers:
This Part fell off of some type of aircraft and punched a hole in a friends
roof out in Gold Canyon, AZ.
Can anyone help identify this?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aircraft Part Fell From Sky
From: Tracy <rwstracy(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 21, 2012
Just a guess: Part of a de-icing boot?
Tracy Crook
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 20, 2012, at 8:25 PM, "Scott R. Shook" wrote:
> Listers:
>
> This Part fell off of some type of aircraft and punched a hole in a friends
> roof out in Gold Canyon, AZ.
>
> Can anyone help identify this?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Jacking A model tail
My 6A is having its engine and prop worked on due to a tornado driving the hangar
door in to my plane.
Meanwhile, with the engine out - I can take care of some of the things on my to-do
list that have been pre-empted by flying.
Re-doing my maingearleg fairings and main wheel pants are at the top of the list.
With the engine out, it is currently resting on a sawhorsebelow one of the
tail-cone bulkheads.
My question: Can I get one of those tripod jacks like I have for jacking the wing
and use it on the tail tie-down point? This will allow me to 'three-point'
the plane while I measure and re-fit.
Thanks,
Ralph
N822AR @ N06 "Patience" - and glad he paid for insurance....
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 21, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Vans Oil cooler shutter instructions
Anyone have a PDF of Vans oil cooler shutter instructions? I seem to have lost
mine....
Another item on my list while the plane is not flyable?
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Jacking A model tail
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Jul 21, 2012
Typically a tail stand is used for holding up the tail. Go to www.aircraftjacks.com and look up tail stand under products....
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 21, 2012, at 12:47 PM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
> My 6A is having its engine and prop worked on due to a tornado driving the hangar
door in to my plane.
>
> Meanwhile, with the engine out - I can take care of some of the things on my
to-do list that have been pre-empted by flying.
>
> Re-doing my maingearleg fairings and main wheel pants are at the top of the list.
With the engine out, it is currently resting on a sawhorsebelow one of the
tail-cone bulkheads.
>
> My question: Can I get one of those tripod jacks like I have for jacking the
wing and use it on the tail tie-down point? This will allow me to 'three-point'
the plane while I measure and re-fit.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> N822AR @ N06 "Patience" - and glad he paid for insurance....
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jconnell(at)fmwildblue.com>
Subject: Jacking A model tail
Date: Jul 22, 2012
Another possibility is to remove your tail tie-down eye and replace it
with threaded rod with matching threads. Drill a hole in the sawhorse,
and insert the bolt in the hole. You could add a nut and washers to the
end to adjust it up or down...
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Jacking A model tail
My 6A is having its engine and prop worked on due to a tornado driving
the hangar
door in to my plane.
Meanwhile, with the engine out - I can take care of some of the things
on my to-do
list that have been pre-empted by flying.
Re-doing my maingearleg fairings and main wheel pants are at the top of
the list.
With the engine out, it is currently resting on a sawhorsebelow one of
the
tail-cone bulkheads.
My question: Can I get one of those tripod jacks like I have for jacking
the wing
and use it on the tail tie-down point? This will allow me to
'three-point'
the plane while I measure and re-fit.
Thanks,
Ralph
N822AR @ N06 "Patience" - and glad he paid for insurance....
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 22, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: ADS600-B vs. Transponder Antenna Locations...
Dear Listers,
The manual for the NavWorx ADS600-B says that the normal transponder antenna and
the UAT antenna "MUST be at least 5 feet apart". On an RV-8, that presents
somewhat of a problem. Realistically, the farthest forward you can mount a transponder
fin is just behind the main spar under the aileron pushrods. 5 feet
back from that point is right under the rear-mounted battery box! That means
that the next realistic place is right behind the elevator bellcrank and behind
bulkhead F-808. The coax w/ TNC connector on one end that comes with the ADS600-B
is just long enough to make it to the forward position. I was thinking
of mounting the transponder antenna (Garmin GTX-237) in the aft position as
described above and using RG-400.
But that's pretty far back for a transponder antenna. I've never seen one mounted
there before. Any reason why I wouldn't want to mount it there?
The only other option would be to mount it out on the wing somewhere to maintain
the 5' separation. But that's even goofier, it seems to me...
Thoughts?
Thanks,
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 110+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2012
Subject: Oshkosh Rocket builders and pilot informal meeting
From: Vince Frazier <vincefrazier(at)gmail.com>
Guys,
Earlier I posted a note about meeting with any and all interested
Rocketeers. We will meet at 10am on Tuesday, July 24th at the Homebuilt
Cafe. Please ignore any earlier remarks about using the Theater in Woods
as a back-up.
****error**** or if they kick us out, we can easily either go sit in the
shade at Paul's Woods, or walk a bit farther to meet in the Theater in the
Woods. ****error*****
Sorry guys, my bad, the Homebuilt Cafe is NOT near the theater in the
woods. We WILL meet at the Homebuilt Cafe as advertised! The Homebuilt
Cafe is near the GREEN TOWER landmark, which is visible from nearly
everywhere along the flight line. See you there!!!!
http://www.airventure.org/images/av12_visitormap.jpg
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Flyboy Accessories
3963 Caborn Road North
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839
1-888-8FLYBOY
1-888-835-9269
www.flyboyaccessories.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2012
From: Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 40-ship formation at Oshkosh -- Looking for participants
Hi people.
I'm doing an hour radio for EAA Radio this week from 12-1 each day through Sunday
focusing on homebuilders (EAA Radio is volunteers; it is not an arm of EAA,
fyi). I hope you get a chance to listen online or through the flightline radio
app.
Today, for example, we'll talk to homebuilders who are part of the designer of the Synergy project, Jack Beck and Marmy Clason (I wrote about them here http://rvbuildershotline.com/articles/2008/leap_of_faith/leap_of_faith.html), Chad Jensen, the EAA homebuilder community manager, and Alex Cuellar, his dad, Alejandro, and some of the RVers who made a wish come true for a young man with an illness. I hope you'll listen and take the survey.
I've got a few open segments this week and I'm hoping to hook up with some of the
Team RV people but I'm not sure the best way to find them at Oshkosh. I'd like
to tape an interview on formation flying and what goes into putting on the
display that we'll see this week.
So I'm hoping they'll see this message and give me a call at 651-470-6371 (I'm
in Camp Scholler) and we can hook up somewhere.
Also, I want to do a segment on why projects don't get finished by interviewing
several homebuilders who faced obstacles and how they overcame them (that would
be everybody, right?). Maybe we can get together briefly at the RV get together
tonight. Anyway, if you're interested in that sort of thing, it's pretty
painless, give me a call.
Here's the link to listen. Also you can submit comments during the show by text
message.
http://www.airventure.org/radio/
Many thanks!
Bob Collins
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 40-ship formation at Oshkosh -- Looking for participants
From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Date: Jul 23, 2012
Bob, you can try Ron Schreck at 704 798-5307 if you haven't heard from TEAM R
V.
Dale Ensing
On Jul 23, 2012, at 10:08 AM, Bob Collins wrote:
> Hi people.
>
> I'm doing an hour radio for EAA Radio this week from 12-1 each day through
Sunday focusing on homebuilders (EAA Radio is volunteers; it is not an arm o
f EAA, fyi). I hope you get a chance to listen online or through the flight
line radio app.
>
> Today, for example, we'll talk to homebuilders who are part of the designe
r of the Synergy project, Jack Beck and Marmy Clason (I wrote about them he
re http://rvbuildershotline.com/articles/2008/leap_of_faith/leap_of_faith.ht
ml), Chad Jensen, the EAA homebuilder community manager, and Alex Cuellar, h
is dad, Alejandro, and some of the RVers who made a wish come true for a you
ng man with an illness. I hope you'll listen and take the survey.
>
> I've got a few open segments this week and I'm hoping to hook up with some
of the Team RV people but I'm not sure the best way to find them at Oshkosh
. I'd like to tape an interview on formation flying and what goes into putti
ng on the display that we'll see this week.
>
> So I'm hoping they'll see this message and give me a call at 651-470-6371 (
I'm in Camp Scholler) and we can hook up somewhere.
>
> Also, I want to do a segment on why projects don't get finished by intervi
ewing several homebuilders who faced obstacles and how they overcame them (t
hat would be everybody, right?). Maybe we can get together briefly at the RV
get together tonight. Anyway, if you're interested in that sort of thing, i
t's pretty painless, give me a call.
>
> Here's the link to listen. Also you can submit comments during the show by
text message.
>
> http://www.airventure.org/radio/
>
> Many thanks!
>
> Bob Collins
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 23, 2012
Subject: AV8OR days numbered?
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
Some one told me that Bendix King is discontinuing the AV8OR GPS. Has any
one heard any thing about this, or is ti an unfounded rumer?
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: AV8OR days numbered?
From: GERALD LOYD <gwloyd(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Jul 23, 2012
I talked to them about that today at Oshkosh. They have some in inventory.
When they are gone its over. They were offering them for $150.00 today.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 23, 2012, at 5:26 PM, "thomas sargent" wrote:
> Some one told me that Bendix King is discontinuing the AV8OR GPS. Has any
one heard any thing about this, or is ti an unfounded rumer?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2012
From: Bob Bales <rbales(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Vans Oil cooler shutter instructions
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Fw: [rvsqn] This is all we need...
Here's a lesson to us all - if someone asks for a ride.....
-----Forwarded Message-----
From: Matthew Law
Sent: Jul 24, 2012 7:44 AM
Subject: [rvsqn] This is all we need...
I suppose it was only a matter of time before the journos decided to have a go
at us and our movements:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-18969889
Matt.
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 24, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Vans Oil cooler shutter instructions
Thanks Bob - I'll have to wait till I get home to open the atachment.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Bales <rbales(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Jul 24, 2012 12:44 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans Oil cooler shutter instructions
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ralph Finch <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jul 24, 2012
Subject: Re: Fw: [rvsqn] This is all we need...
It was an international flight apparently, imagine the fuss here in the USA
if someone flew a light plane from Mexico to the US and landed without
passing Customs or Immigration. You might have F-16s or the local Law
Enforcement to greet you.
On Tue, Jul 24, 2012 at 9:49 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> Here's a lesson to us all - if someone asks for a ride.....
>
> -----Forwarded Message-----
> From: Matthew Law
> Sent: Jul 24, 2012 7:44 AM
> To: "rvsqn(at)yahoogroups.com"
> Subject: [rvsqn] This is all we need...
>
>
> I suppose it was only a matter of time before the journos decided to have
> a go at us and our movements:
>
>
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-18969889
>
>
> Matt.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "charlie" <cheathco(at)cox.net>
Subject: Power/data cble.
Date: Jul 25, 2012
I bought a used 696 yesterday. I don=99t think it has a power/data
cable accessory. I heard about someone cutting the end off the cig
lighter power cable and splicing it in to ships power and driving
autopilot.. Anyone here have any experience/knowledge if this will work?
I wont need the standard as I now have my 296 wired in to ships power
and driving my trutrak. I know my 296 cable wont fit the 696.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Power/data cble.
Date: Jul 25, 2012
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 26, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Looking for cowles aircraft
Looking for the folks that made the RV HI JACK tool. The instructions have Cowles
aircraft Independence, OR on them along with a phone number that rings without
answer.....
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2012
Subject: fuel valve
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
In doing my annual inspection, when I was running the engine to warm up the
oil for an oil change, I tried to stop the engine by turning the fuel
selector valve to OFF. It continued running without slowing down for what
seemed like a long time (probably 1/2 to 1 minute) until I got tired of
waiting and turned off the purge valve (AFP fuel injection) which stopped
it immediately. The fuel flow gauge showed a steady 1.4 - 1.5 gph.
Did I just not wait long enough or is the fuel valve worn out? It's the
valve that Van supplied with the kit and otherwise shows no problems,
doesn't feel worn, etc.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: fuel valve
I think you did not wait long enough....and the purge valve is right up there next
to the injectors for an immediate cut-off. Residual fuel could still be pressurised
by the mechanical pump and keep the engine running for a couple of
minutes....mine ran for a while with the selector in the off position....while
I was still creating my startup checklists...
-----Original Message-----
>From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Jul 30, 2012 11:48 AM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: fuel valve
>
>In doing my annual inspection, when I was running the engine to warm up the
>oil for an oil change, I tried to stop the engine by turning the fuel
>selector valve to OFF. It continued running without slowing down for what
>seemed like a long time (probably 1/2 to 1 minute) until I got tired of
>waiting and turned off the purge valve (AFP fuel injection) which stopped
>it immediately. The fuel flow gauge showed a steady 1.4 - 1.5 gph.
>
>Did I just not wait long enough or is the fuel valve worn out? It's the
>valve that Van supplied with the kit and otherwise shows no problems,
>doesn't feel worn, etc.
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 30, 2012
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: fuel valve
On Mon, 30 Jul 2012, thomas sargent wrote:
> In doing my annual inspection, when I was running the engine to warm up the
> oil for an oil change, I tried to stop the engine by turning the fuel
> selector valve to OFF. It continued running without slowing down for what
> seemed like a long time (probably 1/2 to 1 minute) until I got tired of
> waiting and turned off the purge valve (AFP fuel injection) which stopped
> it immediately. The fuel flow gauge showed a steady 1.4 - 1.5 gph.
>
> Did I just not wait long enough or is the fuel valve worn out? It's the
> valve that Van supplied with the kit and otherwise shows no problems,
> doesn't feel worn, etc.
>
The engine can run for quite a while on the fuel in the lines and the
gasocolator, especially at idle. I once meant to switch tanks and
switched the fuel off in flight, it took about 30 seconds before the
engine stopped. Did start right back up again when I switched the fuel
back on.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 Planning panel
1/4 Starduster II N23UT down for engine overhaul
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Riveting to a paintesd surface
I am getting ready to add a doubler plate for an antenna I will be installing on
the underside of my fuselage.
It is already painted.
My initial thoughts were to rivet as though the paint was not there and paint the
rivets after. Not concerned about electrical bonding of the ground plane as
I will be taking care of that inside the fuselage.
Will the paint affect the compression strength of the rivets?
Thoughts please,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jul 31, 2012
From: Brian Huffaker <bifft(at)xmission.com>
Subject: Re: Riveting to a paintesd surface
On Tue, 31 Jul 2012, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to add a doubler plate for an antenna I will be
>installing on the underside of my fuselage.
> It is already painted.
>
> My initial thoughts were to rivet as though the paint was not there and
>paint the rivets after. Not concerned about electrical bonding of the
>ground plane as I will be taking care of that inside the fuselage.
>
> Will the paint affect the compression strength of the rivets?
I doubt it would be significant. Don't most of us rivit primed parts?
Not much different between that and paint.
Brian Huffaker, DSWL (bifft(at)xmission.com)
RV-8A 80091 planning panel
1/4 Starduster II N23UT flying
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Riveting to a paintesd surface
Date: Jul 31, 2012
Or, don't rivet. You can use the antenna mounting hardware to hold the doubler
plate in, and add an adhesive between the inside of the skin and the doubler
plate.
WRT electrical bonding, remember the objective is to achieve an RF ground, not
necessarily a DC ground. Doing as I suggest above will provide the RF ground.
Carl
On Jul 31, 2012, at 12:21 PM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote:
>
> I am getting ready to add a doubler plate for an antenna I will be installing
on the underside of my fuselage.
> It is already painted.
>
> My initial thoughts were to rivet as though the paint was not there and paint
the rivets after. Not concerned about electrical bonding of the ground plane
as I will be taking care of that inside the fuselage.
>
> Will the paint affect the compression strength of the rivets?
>
> Thoughts please,
> Ralph
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
Date: Aug 02, 2012
I bought pre packaged oil sample kits from Van's which are provided
by Aviation Laboratories in Kenner, LA. I've sent regular oil samples
to them for the last four years. However, I got no response to the
sample I sent in March of this year. I queried them by email a couple
of months later and got no response.
Does anybody know if they are still in business?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
I think they were at OSH....I bought some stuff from them.
Tim
On 8/2/2012 8:33 AM, Charles Brame wrote:
>
> I bought pre packaged oil sample kits from Van's which are provided by
> Aviation Laboratories in Kenner, LA. I've sent regular oil samples to
> them for the last four years. However, I got no response to the sample I
> sent in March of this year. I queried them by email a couple of months
> later and got no response.
>
> Does anybody know if they are still in business?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 02, 2012
Just use Blackstone Labs and be done with it.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 6:35 am
Subject: RV-List: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
I bought pre packaged oil sample kits from Van's which are provided
by Aviation Laboratories in Kenner, LA. I've sent regular oil samples
to them for the last four years. However, I got no response to the
sample I sent in March of this year. I queried them by email a couple
of months later and got no response.
Does anybody know if they are still in business?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
I use Analystsinc.com. They were the best price I
could find. I paid $9.25/kit and that included free
return postage. Without postage it's $7/kit in lots
of 10.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/maintenance/20060601/index.html
Tim
On 8/2/2012 10:52 AM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> Just use Blackstone Labs and be done with it.
> -GV