RV-Archive.digest.vol-vp

August 02, 2012 - December 29, 2012



      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
      > To: RV List 
      > Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 6:35 am
      > Subject: RV-List: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
      >
      >
      > I bought pre packaged oil sample kits from Van's which are provided
      > by  Aviation Laboratories in Kenner, LA. I've sent regular oil samples
      > to them for the last four years. However, I got no response to the
      > sample I sent in March of this year. I queried them by email a couple
      > of months later and got no response.
      >
      > Does anybody know if they are still in business?
      >
      > Charlie Brame
      > RV-6A  N11CB
      >
      >
      > t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
      > tp://forums.matronics.com
      > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2012
From: Arthur Glaser <artglaser(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
They are in business and were at Oshkosh.- I was not happy with a represe ntative =0Aand feel that he was=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________________________ ___=0AFrom: "vanremog(at)aol.com" <vanremog(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.c om=0ASent: Thu, August 2, 2012 11:11:51 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)=0A=0AJust use Blackstone Labs and be don e with it.=0A=0A-GV=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Charles Brame <cha sb(at)satx.rr.com>=0ATo: RV List =0ASent: Thu, Aug 2, 2 012 6:35 am=0ASubject: RV-List: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples) I bought pre =0Apackaged oil sample kits from Van's which are provided by Aviation =0ALaboratories in Kenner, LA. I've sent regular oil samples t o them for the last =0Afour years. However, I got no response to the samp le I sent in March of this =0Ayear. I queried them by email a couple of m onths later and got no response. =0ADoes anybody know if they are still in business? Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB =0At="_blank">http://www.matron ics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp://forums.matronics.com =0A_blank">http://www.m ===================== =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2012
From: Arthur Glaser <artglaser(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Arthur Glaser <artg laser(at)sbcglobal.net>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, August 2, 201 2 11:34:21 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil sam ples)=0A=0A=0AThey are in business and were at Oshkosh.- I was not happy with a representative =0Aand feel that he was not entirely up front with me .=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: "vanremog(at)aol.com" =0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thu, August 2, 2012 11:11:51 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samp les)=0A=0AJust use Blackstone Labs and be done with it.=0A=0A-GV=0A-----Ori ginal Message-----=0AFrom: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>=0ATo: RV List =0ASent: Thu, Aug 2, 2012 6:35 am=0ASubject: RV-List : Aviation Laboratories (engine oil samples)=0A=0A=0A--> RV-List message po sted by: Charles Brame I bought pre =0Apackaged oil sa mple kits from Van's which are provided by Aviation =0ALaboratories in K enner, LA. I've sent regular oil samples to them for the last =0Afour yea rs. However, I got no response to the sample I sent in March of this =0Ay ear. I queried them by email a couple of months later and got no response . =0ADoes anybody know if they are still in business? Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB =0At="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp:// forums.matronics.com =0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A=0A tor?RV-List" rel=nofollow =0Atarget=_blank>http://www.matronics. com/Naviga===================== ============== =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paul Bowmar <paul(at)bwbco.com>
Date: Aug 02, 2012
Subject: AVLABS
I sent a sample in to AVLABS on May 11 and still had not seen results. My engine is only 150 hrs and running great so I wasn't to concerned, but curious. I tried to log onto their report site several times and it said no record of engine SN. I thought there might be a glitch and haven't pursued it. Until now I see others having trouble. I just called them and the lady said they tried to email the results. I doubt that because she had my email correct. She said they received the sample june 11. A month in the mail??? I still have several AVLAB Kits but when those are gone I will switch. Tim, how expedient is Analysts, Inc? Any report on quality? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 02, 2012
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: AVLABS
Hi Paul, They've been very quick to get it back. From the time I drop it in the mailbox it's usually a week or week and a half and I get an email with their website link. I can log in and download a .pdf. Then a few days later I get it on paper in the mail, too. Attached is a .jpg with my most recent statements. Yes, I ran 60+ hours a couple times...but the Alaska trip didn't give me a good opportunity for oil change. Also, I had UV dye in the oil recently, and on one change use AVblend, and most used Camguard, and some were winter and some were summer, so there is a variety of conditions and differences. But, you can see the oil sample results and get some trends from them. I have reports going back further than this report. It used to be "ShellCare" but now is direct to them rather than thru Shell. No problems with them at all so far. I did blank out a couple of things on the report just to keep some trackable info off it like my address and any account type numbers, but you should be able to see what you want on the report. Tim On 8/2/2012 11:44 AM, Paul Bowmar wrote: > > I sent a sample in to AVLABS on May 11 and still had not seen > results. My engine is only 150 hrs and running great so I wasn't to > concerned, but curious. I tried to log onto their report site > several times and it said no record of engine SN. I thought there > might be a glitch and haven't pursued it. Until now I see others > having trouble. I just called them and the lady said they tried to > email the results. I doubt that because she had my email correct. > She said they received the sample june 11. A month in the mail??? I > still have several AVLAB Kits but when those are gone I will switch. > Tim, how expedient is Analysts, Inc? Any report on quality? > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 03, 2012
From: Steve Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com>
Subject: First Saturday Fly-Ins at KEHR, Henderson, KY
We will be preparing Hamburgers, Brats and NATHANS FAMOUS Hot Dogs for all that fly in. Just as New York's 21 Club has become known as the HAPPENING PLACE to be and be seen, EAA 21 Club is the place to be on the first Saturday of each month. When: July 7, August 4, September 1, October 6, 2012 10:00 AM till 2:00 PM Central time. Where: Henderson Kentucky City-County Airport (KEHR) If KEHR is VFR then we will be cooking the best Gourmet Burgers, Brats and Dogs this side of Sporty's. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2012
Subject: Andair Fuel Caps, New Engraving Products, Updated International
Shipping info for all RVers overseas, Kitplanehoses.com, and Secret Squirrel Department
From: Aircraft Specialty <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Good evening everyone. Hope you all had a great time at Oshkosh. For those of you who were unable to attend, I am sure you were there in spirit. We have been busy here at Aircraft Specialty, and wanted to announce a few things. 1. We are now a US Distributor for Andair Locking Fuel Caps. Andair is based in England, and makes extremely high quality caps. The best part is that they are retrofittable into the standard RV flange. This allows you to retrofit locking caps to your tank without having to make any modifications, other than to proseal the Andair flange inside the Van's flange. We also offer fuel cap engraving for the andair caps. The major advantage here is that since we are a distributor, we are able to engrave the caps onsite and then ship them out to you. This saves you the hassle of having to purchase caps and then send them out to be engraved. We are offering the Andair caps for *$154/set (plain), $194/set (engraved), and $199/set (engraved with color fill)*. These caps can be found at * www.aircraftspecialty.com/rvproducts.html* 2. We are also offering polishing of the standard Vans fuel caps at a very reasonable rate. If you go to *www.aircraftspecialty.com/engraving.html*, click on the fuel caps, and then click on "FOR INFORMATION ON USHER FUEL CAP POLISHING". You will see pictures of the difference between the polished and unpolished caps. This in an option we offer as an addition to our fuel cap engraving. *The cost is $30/set of two caps.* 3. Finally, we have updated our shipping rates for our international customers. We ship mostly via the Post Office, and you can expect to receive your items within 10 business days. Normally it goes quicker, but that is the maximum that it should take. You no longer have to call us for an international shipping quote. 4. Thanks to all of you that have purchased hoses from www.kitplanehoses.com. We appreciate it, and will continue to provide top quality fuel and brake hoses at very reasonable prices. I have received a lot of positive feedback about our ordering process, but wanted to open it up to you. If you have any suggestions on what would make ordering hoses easier or more convenient, please feel free to let me know. Also, for those of you who live overseas, this ordering is also available with accurate shipping quotes at *www.kitplanehoses.com* Feel free to contact me at * steve(at)aircraftspecialty.com* with comments. 5. We also wanted to let everyone know that we are currently working on a few very innovative products that will be reasonably priced and will greatly enhance your RV. We are always working on innovating new things, but want to make sure they are tested and perfect before we release them for sale. As always, if any of you have any ideas on something that you would absolutely like to have, we are happy to work with builders to develop new items that might benefit the RV community. Fly safe and thanks again for all your patronage. Steve Aircraft Specialty ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Andair Fuel Caps, New Engraving Products, Updated International
Shipping info for all RVers overseas, Kitplanehoses.com, and Secret Squirrel Department
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com
What is available for good looking alternate static port valve? Greg On Aug 6, 2012 7:09 PM, "Aircraft Specialty" wrote: > Good evening everyone. Hope you all had a great time at Oshkosh. For > those of you who were unable to attend, I am sure you were there in spirit. > > We have been busy here at Aircraft Specialty, and wanted to announce a few > things. > > 1. We are now a US Distributor for Andair Locking Fuel Caps. Andair is > based in England, and makes extremely high quality caps. The best part is > that they are retrofittable into the standard RV flange. This allows you > to retrofit locking caps to your tank without having to make any > modifications, other than to proseal the Andair flange inside the Van's > flange. We also offer fuel cap engraving for the andair caps. The major > advantage here is that since we are a distributor, we are able to engrave > the caps onsite and then ship them out to you. This saves you the hassle > of having to purchase caps and then send them out to be engraved. We are > offering the Andair caps for *$154/set (plain), $194/set (engraved), and > $199/set (engraved with color fill)*. These caps can be found at * > www.aircraftspecialty.com/rvproducts.html* > > 2. We are also offering polishing of the standard Vans fuel caps at a very > reasonable rate. If you go to *www.aircraftspecialty.com/engraving.html*, > click on the fuel caps, and then click on "FOR INFORMATION ON USHER FUEL > CAP POLISHING". You will see pictures of the difference between the > polished and unpolished caps. This in an option we offer as an addition to > our fuel cap engraving. *The cost is $30/set of two caps.* > > 3. Finally, we have updated our shipping rates for our international > customers. We ship mostly via the Post Office, and you can expect to > receive your items within 10 business days. Normally it goes quicker, but > that is the maximum that it should take. You no longer have to call us for > an international shipping quote. > > 4. Thanks to all of you that have purchased hoses from > www.kitplanehoses.com. We appreciate it, and will continue to provide > top quality fuel and brake hoses at very reasonable prices. I have > received a lot of positive feedback about our ordering process, but wanted > to open it up to you. If you have any suggestions on what would make > ordering hoses easier or more convenient, please feel free to let me know. > Also, for those of you who live overseas, this ordering is also available > with accurate shipping quotes at *www.kitplanehoses.com* Feel free to > contact me at *steve(at)aircraftspecialty.com* with comments. > > > 5. We also wanted to let everyone know that we are currently working on a > few very innovative products that will be reasonably priced and will > greatly enhance your RV. We are always working on innovating new things, > but want to make sure they are tested and perfect before we release them > for sale. As always, if any of you have any ideas on something that you > would absolutely like to have, we are happy to work with builders to > develop new items that might benefit the RV community. > > Fly safe and thanks again for all your patronage. > Steve > Aircraft Specialty > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Andair Fuel Caps, New Engraving Products, Updated International
Shipping info for all RVers overseas, Kitplanehoses.com, and Secret Squirrel Department
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2012
Check out the one Cessna uses. I bet they are pretty fond of it though. http://www.google.com/search?q=cessna+alternate+static+valve&hl=en&prmd =imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=BoAgUJmdF4j7iwLOoIFg& ved=0CF4QsAQ&biw=1559&bih=748 -GV -----Original Message----- From: mr.gsun <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> Sent: Mon, Aug 6, 2012 7:23 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: Andair Fuel Caps, New Engraving Products, Updated In ternational Shipping info for all RVers overseas, Kitplanehoses.com, and S ecret Squirrel Department What is available for good looking alternate static port valve? Greg On Aug 6, 2012 7:09 PM, "Aircraft Specialty" wrote: Good evening everyone. Hope you all had a great time at Oshkosh. For thos e of you who were unable to attend, I am sure you were there in spirit. We have been busy here at Aircraft Specialty, and wanted to announce a few things. 1. We are now a US Distributor for Andair Locking Fuel Caps. Andair is ba sed in England, and makes extremely high quality caps. The best part is th at they are retrofittable into the standard RV flange. This allows you to retrofit locking caps to your tank without having to make any modifications , other than to proseal the Andair flange inside the Van's flange. We also offer fuel cap engraving for the andair caps. The major advantage here is that since we are a distributor, we are able to engrave the caps onsite an d then ship them out to you. This saves you the hassle of having to purcha se caps and then send them out to be engraved. We are offering the Andair caps for $154/set (plain), $194/set (engraved), and $199/set (engraved with color fill). These caps can be found at www.aircraftspecialty.com/rvprodu cts.html 2. We are also offering polishing of the standard Vans fuel caps at a very reasonable rate. If you go to www.aircraftspecialty.com/engraving.html, cl ick on the fuel caps, and then click on "FOR INFORMATION ON USHER FUEL CAP POLISHING". You will see pictures of the difference between the polished a nd unpolished caps. This in an option we offer as an addition to our fuel cap engraving. The cost is $30/set of two caps. 3. Finally, we have updated our shipping rates for our international custom ers. We ship mostly via the Post Office, and you can expect to receive you r items within 10 business days. Normally it goes quicker, but that is the maximum that it should take. You no longer have to call us for an interna tional shipping quote. 4. Thanks to all of you that have purchased hoses from www.kitplanehoses.co m. We appreciate it, and will continue to provide top quality fuel and bra ke hoses at very reasonable prices. I have received a lot of positive feed back about our ordering process, but wanted to open it up to you. If you h ave any suggestions on what would make ordering hoses easier or more conven ient, please feel free to let me know. Also, for those of you who live ove rseas, this ordering is also available with accurate shipping quotes at www .kitplanehoses.com Feel free to contact me at steve(at)aircraftspecialty.com with comments. 5. We also wanted to let everyone know that we are currently working on a f ew very innovative products that will be reasonably priced and will greatly enhance your RV. We are always working on innovating new things, but want to make sure they are tested and perfect before we release them for sale. As always, if any of you have any ideas on something that you would absolu tely like to have, we are happy to work with builders to develop new items that might benefit the RV community. Fly safe and thanks again for all your patronage. Steve Aircraft Specialty t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Andair Fuel Caps, New Engraving Products, Updated International
Shipping info for all RVers overseas, Kitplanehoses.com, and Secret Squirrel Department
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 06, 2012
http://www.aircraftpartsandsalvage.com/cessna-alternate-static-source-valve -p-19809.html -GV -----Original Message----- From: mr.gsun <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> Sent: Mon, Aug 6, 2012 7:23 pm Subject: Re: RV-List: Andair Fuel Caps, New Engraving Products, Updated In ternational Shipping info for all RVers overseas, Kitplanehoses.com, and S ecret Squirrel Department What is available for good looking alternate static port valve? Greg On Aug 6, 2012 7:09 PM, "Aircraft Specialty" wrote: Good evening everyone. Hope you all had a great time at Oshkosh. For thos e of you who were unable to attend, I am sure you were there in spirit. We have been busy here at Aircraft Specialty, and wanted to announce a few things. 1. We are now a US Distributor for Andair Locking Fuel Caps. Andair is ba sed in England, and makes extremely high quality caps. The best part is th at they are retrofittable into the standard RV flange. This allows you to retrofit locking caps to your tank without having to make any modifications , other than to proseal the Andair flange inside the Van's flange. We also offer fuel cap engraving for the andair caps. The major advantage here is that since we are a distributor, we are able to engrave the caps onsite an d then ship them out to you. This saves you the hassle of having to purcha se caps and then send them out to be engraved. We are offering the Andair caps for $154/set (plain), $194/set (engraved), and $199/set (engraved with color fill). These caps can be found at www.aircraftspecialty.com/rvprodu cts.html 2. We are also offering polishing of the standard Vans fuel caps at a very reasonable rate. If you go to www.aircraftspecialty.com/engraving.html, cl ick on the fuel caps, and then click on "FOR INFORMATION ON USHER FUEL CAP POLISHING". You will see pictures of the difference between the polished a nd unpolished caps. This in an option we offer as an addition to our fuel cap engraving. The cost is $30/set of two caps. 3. Finally, we have updated our shipping rates for our international custom ers. We ship mostly via the Post Office, and you can expect to receive you r items within 10 business days. Normally it goes quicker, but that is the maximum that it should take. You no longer have to call us for an interna tional shipping quote. 4. Thanks to all of you that have purchased hoses from www.kitplanehoses.co m. We appreciate it, and will continue to provide top quality fuel and bra ke hoses at very reasonable prices. I have received a lot of positive feed back about our ordering process, but wanted to open it up to you. If you h ave any suggestions on what would make ordering hoses easier or more conven ient, please feel free to let me know. Also, for those of you who live ove rseas, this ordering is also available with accurate shipping quotes at www .kitplanehoses.com Feel free to contact me at steve(at)aircraftspecialty.com with comments. 5. We also wanted to let everyone know that we are currently working on a f ew very innovative products that will be reasonably priced and will greatly enhance your RV. We are always working on innovating new things, but want to make sure they are tested and perfect before we release them for sale. As always, if any of you have any ideas on something that you would absolu tely like to have, we are happy to work with builders to develop new items that might benefit the RV community. Fly safe and thanks again for all your patronage. Steve Aircraft Specialty t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 06, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Cork Gaskets For Comant CI122 VHF Antennas
Does anyone have a good source for the cork gaskets used with the Comant CI 122 VHF Com antennas? When I removed them from the old RV-8 fuselage, I must have put them in a very "safe" place and now I can't find them anywhere. Guess they're pretty safe. Anyway, I need to order a couple more but I checked the Chief, Pacific Coast Avionics, and ACS web pages and found the antennas but no references to just ordering the cork gaskets. <http://www.cobham.com/media/9104/ci%20122%20data%20sheet.pdf>http://www.cobham.com/media/9104/ci%20122%20data%20sheet.pdf Thanks for any tips... - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 80+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Warren Brecheisen" <n146wb(at)cfu.net>
Subject: Cork Gaskets For Comant CI122 VHF Antennas
Date: Aug 07, 2012
One can purchase cork gasket material and make the gasket. I just made a gasket for one of my fuel tank sensors. A utility knife and leather hole punch work well. Warren ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Cork Gaskets For Comant CI122 VHF Antennas
From: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)twc.com>
Date: Aug 07, 2012
I would contact the company that make the antenna, most likely they would send you one for free. Sent from my Verizon iPhone On Aug 6, 2012, at 10:19 PM, Matt Dralle wrote: > > > Does anyone have a good source for the cork gaskets used with the Comant CI 122 VHF Com antennas? When I removed them from the old RV-8 fuselage, I must have put them in a very "safe" place and now I can't find them anywhere. Guess they're pretty safe. Anyway, I need to order a couple more but I checked the Chief, Pacific Coast Avionics, and ACS web pages and found the antennas but no references to just ordering the cork gaskets. > > <http://www.cobham.com/media/9104/ci%20122%20data%20sheet.pdf>http://www.cobham.com/media/9104/ci%20122%20data%20sheet.pdf > > Thanks for any tips... > > > - > Matt Dralle > > RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... > > RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" > http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log > Status: 80+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Canopy Cover Discount Offered
From: "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 08, 2012
Our latest advertiser on RVairspace.com , Bruces Canopy Covers, is offering a 10% discount for our website users. Please check out the many links to Bruces, along with our other advertisers, on the website. To obtain your discount when ordering, enter coupon code rvairspace (all lower case). Thanks for looking! -------- Glenn Brasch RV-9A Finishing #90623, O-360 1953 Piper Tri-Pacer A-Star Medevac Driver Tucson, Arizona www.RVairspace.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380390#380390 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Primer
Date: Aug 13, 2012
I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage Pa rts. It's been a while=2C so I'd like to know what the majority of builders are using now=2C and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advanc e. R.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Primer
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 14, 2012
Oh boy, let the games begin... -GV -----Original Message----- From: R.C. Flyer <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Mon, Aug 13, 2012 10:32 pm Subject: RV-List: Primer I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage Pa rts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of builders a re using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advance. R.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Primer
Date: Aug 13, 2012
RC, I've been using the NAPA 7220 self-etching primer in spray cans. It sticks well, is tough, very convenient, & easy to use and apparently lots of RVers use it. (I've even seen it used in EAA how-to videos) It is a little pricey - about $10/can. However it does go on sale occasionally. I bought 3 cases at about $6/can when it was on sale at the Garden Grove Napa auto parts back in January. If you are vigilant you should be able to find it on sale. -Jeff Luckey RV-7A fuel tanks _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R.C. Flyer Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 22:31 Subject: RV-List: Primer I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage Parts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of builders are using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advance. R.C. No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
Subject: Re: Primer
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com>
Oh No. Not another primer war!! no not archive On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 1:30 AM, R.C. Flyer wrote: > I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage > Parts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of builders > are using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advance. > > R.C. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Primer
Date: Aug 14, 2012
I used a Sherwin Williams self-etching epoxy primer product that was excellent on aluminum. It is called G.B.P 988 and it produces quite a durable finish for those interior panels that you don't want to paint. It's sold in 16oz. spray cans or by the quart/gallon. Ian Brown, C-GOHM, RV-9A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
Subject: Lycoming Oil Line question
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com>
I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: MLWynn(at)aol.com
Date: Aug 14, 2012
Subject: Re: Lycoming Oil Line question
Hi Dale, Oddly enough, I have exactly the same setup, down to the propeller. I am a few months from the DAR. I understood from Mahlon that it stays were it is. I was unclear if I might want a constant speed prop at some point and ordered the engine that way. Be interested in what the actual experts say about this but as far as I know, Mattituck sent the engine in the correct configuration to run. Michael Wynn RV 8 Finishing San Ramon, CA In a message dated 8/14/2012 11:26:50 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Ellis I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Oil Line question
Dale, -Actually, leaving that line and the adapter for the governor on, will al low you to NOT have to remove the front plug from the crankshaft to pierce the rear plug. Piercing the rear plug [and replacing the front plug] is nor mally necessary to allow the pressurized oil in the crankshaft a place to g o [when not using a C/S prop] That pipe gives the pressurized oil a way bac k to the crankcase, without having to remove the front plug and pierce the rear. This will come in handy if you ever change your mind and decide to in stall a C/S prop. Charlie --- On Tue, 8/14/12, Dale Ellis wrote: From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com> Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Date: Tuesday, August 14, 2012, 2:24 PM I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank.- It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this.- This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
From: Bill Settle <billsettle(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Oil Line question
Hi Dale, Congratulations! This is my understanding as well. You remove the line and stick a plug in the hole if you are not going Constant Speed. Good Luck! Bill. ________________________________ From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com> Sent: Tue, August 14, 2012 2:29:16 PM Subject: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop governor would be mounted. It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of doing this. Dale DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Oil Line question
Date: Aug 14, 2012
A couple of thoughts. I started out with a FP prop on my 8A. After 350 hours I put on a Hartzell blended airfoil prop. The performance change was huge. If there is anyway you can go with a CS prop, do so. If you stay with the FP prop, you do want to remove and cap off the governor oil line. As discussed in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1435, to mount a FP prop you need to remove the forward crank oil seal and then pierce the rear crank oil seal. Once done you replace the forward crank oil seal (with a new one - available at Van's and other places). This to allow oil coming into the space between the oil seals from the journal bearing to have a path back to the sump. This prevents the forward seal being blown out from pressure buildup. Removing the pipe and capping off the ends just eliminates an oil path to this between the seals space. Save the pipe, it is very expensive and you may want to shift to a CS prop someday like I did. Reversing the process requires you to replace the rear seal. Not hard if you have the right tool. Real easy to damager the oil return tube if you don't have the right tool. No matter what however, follow the Service Instruction. I would expect your DAR to ask you if you did or not. http://www.lycoming.com/support/publications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1435.pdf Carl. On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Dale Ellis wrote: > > I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is > mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. > > I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. > > The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from > the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop > governor would be mounted. > > It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can > cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. > > What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of > doing this. > > Dale > DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Oil Line question
Carl, -I would suggest that you go to the Lycoming List post linked below. [It is the start of the thread]. Read this post. Scroll down and you will find links for each continuing post in that thread, so that you will understand that there is an ALTERNATIVE way of allowing the oil to drain back WITHOUT removal or puncturing either plug in the nose of the crankshaft. Start at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lycoming/message/7009 Charlie Kuss more than one way to skin a cat --- On Tue, 8/14/12, Carl Froehlich wrote: From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming Oil Line question Date: Tuesday, August 14, 2012, 5:21 PM A couple of thoughts.- I started out with a FP prop on my 8A.- After 35 0 hours I put on a Hartzell blended airfoil prop.- The performance change was huge.- If there is anyway you can go with a CS prop, do so. If you stay with the FP prop, you do want to remove and cap off the governo r oil line.- As discussed in the Lycoming Service Instruction 1435, to mo unt a FP prop you need to remove the forward crank oil seal and then pierce the rear crank oil seal.- Once done you replace the forward crank oil se al (with a new one - available at Van's and other places).- This to allow oil coming into the space between the oil seals from the journal bearing t o have a path back to the sump.- This prevents the forward seal being blo wn out from pressure buildup.- Removing the pipe and capping off the ends just eliminates an oil path to this between the seals space. Save the pipe, it is very expensive and you may want to shift to a CS prop someday like I did.- Reversing the process requires you to replace the re ar seal.- Not hard if you have the right tool.- Real easy to damage the oil return tube if you don't have the right tool. No matter what however, follow the Service Instruction.- I would expect y our DAR to ask you if you did or not.- http://www.lycoming.com/support/pu blications/service-instructions/pdfs/SI1435.pdf Carl. On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:24 PM, Dale Ellis wrote: > > I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank.- It is > mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. > > I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. > > The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from > the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop > governor would be mounted. > > It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can > cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. > > What or your thoughts on this.- This is the first that I have heard of > doing this. > > Dale > DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. > > > > le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
Subject: Re: Primer
From: Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com>
R.C. I used Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash Primer (P60 G 2) to prime my RV-7A - with satisfactory results. I used a cheap spray unit bought from Home Depot and practiced on parts only the bugs would ever see , e.g. wing ribs and inside skins. You can buy the stuff from any Sherwin - Williams paint store that specializes in sales to auto body repair shops, i.e., not to folks looking to repaint the kitchen or bedroom. It's a lot cheaper than spray cans - the cheapest way to go is simply not prime at all - but let's not get into that. Dan Bergeron RV-7A - N307TB 340 hours since first flight on 08/04/2009 On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Dale Ellis wrote: > > Oh No. Not another primer war!! > > no not archive > > On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 1:30 AM, R.C. Flyer wrote: > > I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage > > Parts. It's been a while, so I'd like to know what the majority of > builders > > are using now, and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in > advance. > > > > R.C. > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Primer
Date: Aug 14, 2012
Thanks to all who replied. I will investigate you suggestions an go for wha t works. your assistance is appreciated. R.C. Date: Tue=2C 14 Aug 2012 18:46:42 -0400 Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer From: dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com R.C. I used Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash Primer (P60 G 2) to prime my RV-7 A - with satisfactory results. I used a cheap spray unit bought from Home Depot and practiced on parts only the bugs would ever see =2C e.g. wing rib s and inside skins. You can buy the stuff from any Sherwin - Williams pain t store that specializes in sales to auto body repair shops=2C i.e.=2C not to folks looking to repaint the kitchen or bedroom. It's a lot cheaper tha n spray cans - the cheapest way to go is simply not prime at all - but le t's not get into that. Dan Bergeron RV-7A - N307TB 340 hours since first flight on 08/04/2009 On Tue=2C Aug 14=2C 2012 at 8:17 AM=2C Dale Ellis wrote: Oh No. Not another primer war!! no not archive On Tue=2C Aug 14=2C 2012 at 1:30 AM=2C R.C. Flyer wro te: > I am getting back to the build of my RV-6 and need to prime the Fuselage > Parts. It's been a while=2C so I'd like to know what the majority of buil ders > are using now=2C and where it can be acquired in So. Ca. Thanks in advan ce. > > R.C. > > get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com le=2C List Admin. ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
From: GARY GEMBALA <wcruiser1(at)wowway.com>
Subject: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication
After way too many years building, today we finally started the Lycoming 0360 in my RV8A I have the standard Vans steam gages and the fuel pressure gage never made it into the green with engine running and boost pump on or off. (same for engine off and boost pump on) gage off the peg but not in the green. Fuel delivery test shows good delivery flow - 26 ghp. Could this be a bad trasnducer or what have others in the group found to resolve this? I have checked the listings and not found a good answer. Gary Gembala ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 14, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication
Could you have the gauge intended for injected engines? Are there any numeric values? The correct gauge shows green from 0.5 to 8 psi and max value of 15 psi. With the flow you have, either you have the wrong transducer or wrong guage or both. Current catalog shows IE VFP 15 and IE 411AB transducer. Kelly On 8/14/2012 8:15 PM, GARY GEMBALA wrote: > After way too many years building, today we finally started the > Lycoming 0360 in my RV8A > I have the standard Vans steam gages and the fuel pressure gage never > made it into the green with engine running and boost pump on or off. > (same for engine off and boost pump on) gage off the peg but not in > the green. > > Fuel delivery test shows good delivery flow - 26 ghp. > > Could this be a bad trasnducer or what have others in the group found > to resolve this? > > I have checked the listings and not found a good answer. > > Gary Gembala > * > > > * ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Date: Aug 14, 2012
Subject: FS: TruTrak Gemini PFD
FYI .. if anyone is looking for a TT Gemini PFD for a backup display, I have a new, in-box unit for $1,100 (shipping included) vs. 1,300 from TT. Great unit, however I don't have room in my panel for a 3" instrument right now. Need to wait for the AP version of the Gemini. Thanks.. David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFIS Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 15, 2012
Subject: Re: Lycoming Oil Line question
From: Dale Ellis <rv8builder.kd0m(at)gmail.com>
The answer that I got from Michael Yousik (of Mattituck) is "leave the line in place" because of the plate that is installed on the governor pad that allows the oil to be dumped into the sump. See the photo attached to see the machining that was done to allow this. Dale On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 2:24 PM, Dale Ellis wrote: > > I have a TMX IO-360 engine that I ordered with a hollow crank. It is > mounted on a RV-8 that is getting close to flying. > > I am hanging a Catto (fix pitch prop) on it. > > The engine is fitted with a stainless steel oil line that goes from > the nose of the engine to a pad of some sort to which the prop > governor would be mounted. > > It has been suggested to me that I need to remove that oil line can > cap it off, since I will not be using the governor. > > What or your thoughts on this. This is the first that I have heard of > doing this. > > Dale > DAR scheduled for Friday of this week. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Primer
Date: Aug 15, 2012
I used Sherwin Williams P60G2 wash primer inside the tail, wings and aft fuselage of my RV-6A. I used Sherwin Williams GBP 988 in the forward fuselage (under places where I also sprayed on some Sherwin Williams Acrylic enamel to make the cockpit area look nice). The reason I used the 988 up front was in case the color coat wore through, you'd see the gray primer underneath and not the ugly green wash primer. Oh and I also bought a few spray cans of Zinc Chromate from Gulf Coast to do small parts and things that cant be seen inside the airplane. Just being anal about airplane building. Dean RV-6A N197Dm Tarpon Sprgs, FL -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 3:02 AM 1. 05:18 AM - Re: Primer (Dale Ellis) 2. 09:03 AM - Primer (Ian Brown) 10. 03:47 PM - Re: Primer (Dan Bergeron) 11. 06:59 PM - Primer (R.C. Flyer) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Oil line question
Date: Aug 16, 2012
I also ordered a TMX-IO360 (injected parallel valve 180 HP) from Mattituck with the constant speed package. But, when I ordered it I told them I was going to mount a fixed pitch prop for early flights and to set the engine up for FP before shipping it to me. So, they put a cap over the governor opening and included the governor drive assembly in the shipping box in a plastic bag. The aforementioned metal pipe was also in the shipping box and not installed on the engine. The tapped hole at the front of the crankcase had a pipe plug installed. All I had to do was mount the FP prop and I was ready to go, no crank plug disassembly or piercing required. They also included a new crank plug in the event that I decide to switch over to constant speed (after 4 years of fun, probably not. I will be curious to hear about how your setup (with the light Catto and fuel injection) idles after warm up. I originally had a wood prop on and the engine did not want to idle very well after warm up. Not a problem with the Sensenich metal prop that I have now because it has sufficient mass/ inertia to keep the engine turning over, leaning on the ground also helps keep it happy. Best of luck, you're gonna love it! Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Tarpon Sprgs, FL -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV-List Digest Server Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 3:02 AM 3. 11:26 AM - Lycoming Oil Line question (Dale Ellis) 4. 01:05 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (MLWynn(at)aol.com) 5. 01:05 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Charles Kuss) 6. 01:17 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Bob Collins) 7. 01:46 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Bill Settle) 8. 02:22 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Carl Froehlich) 9. 03:28 PM - Re: Lycoming Oil Line question (Charles Kuss) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 16, 2012
From: GARY GEMBALA <wcruiser1(at)wowway.com>
Subject: Re: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication
Yup, that the gage, will check transducer numbers Spoke to a friend in Florida, he cracked the line to the transduser and bled out the air. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8A O360 low fuel pressure indication Could you have the gauge intended for injected engines? Are there any numeric values? The correct gauge shows green from 0.5 to 8 psi and max value of 15 psi. With the flow you have, either you have the wrong transducer or wrong guage or both. Current catalog shows IE VFP 15 and IE 411AB transducer. Kelly On 8/14/2012 8:15 PM, GARY GEMBALA wrote: > After way too many years building, today we finally started the > Lycoming 0360 in my RV8A > I have the standard Vans steam gages and the fuel pressure gage never > made it into the green with engine running and boost pump on or off. > (same for engine off and boost pump on) gage off the peg but not in > the green. > > Fuel delivery test shows good delivery flow - 26 ghp. > > Could this be a bad trasnducer or what have others in the group found > to resolve this? > > I have checked the listings and not found a good answer. > > Gary Gembala > * > > > * ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Aug 27, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV8A @ Knox county ME (KRKD)
Was vacationing on the Victory Chimes last week...on the way back we were flying home (commercial - yuk) and spotted an 8A landing and taxiing opposite the terminal. Any one know who that is? I would like to make that trip in my 6A someday and am interested in any secrets! Thanks, Ralph RV6A N822AR @ N06 recovering from the hangar door hitting the prop during a windstorm. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV8A @ Knox county ME (KRKD)
From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
Date: Aug 27, 2012
Don't know who belongs to the 8A but would like to hear how the cruise on Victory Chimes was. We are interested in doing that next summer. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Transition Trainer New Smyrna Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=381942#381942 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Another Phase I?
After experiencing a Derecho/Tornado induced prop strike by my hangar door, the engine and prop have been sent out and inspected. The prop is back and the engine is due back today. I'll be putting it back together over the next few weekends.... Do I need to do another Phase I test period (albeit shorter)? It is the same engine / ptrop combination that I had before. I am planning to fly at least a few hours solo to make sure stuff settles back in - but I'm asking about the official requirements. Thanks, Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Another Phase I?
Date: Sep 07, 2012
Was there a major change as described in your operating limitations that wo uld require a Phase I? > Date: Fri=2C 7 Sep 2012 08:52:57 -0400 > From: recapen(at)earthlink.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Another Phase I? > > > After experiencing a Derecho/Tornado induced prop strike by my hangar doo r=2C the engine and prop have been sent out and inspected. The prop is bac k and the engine is due back today. I'll be putting it back together over the next few weekends.... > > Do I need to do another Phase I test period (albeit shorter)? It is the same engine / ptrop combination that I had before. I am planning to fly at least a few hours solo to make sure stuff settles back in - but I'm asking about the official requirements. > > Thanks=2C > Ralph > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Another Phase I?
Good suggestion - I'll check my OpLims..... -----Original Message----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" Sent: Sep 7, 2012 9:42 AM Cc: RV7 Yahoo list Subject: RE: RV-List: Another Phase I? Good suggestion - I'll check my OpLims..... -----Original Message----- From: RV6 Flyer Sent: Sep 7, 2012 9:07 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Another Phase I? Was there a major change as described in your operating limitations that would require a Phase I? > Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 08:52:57 -0400 > From: recapen(at)earthlink.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Another Phase I? > > > After experiencing a Derecho/Tornado induced prop strike by my hangar door, the engine and prop have been sent out and inspected. The prop is back and the engine is due back today. I'll be putting it back together over the next few weekends.... > > Do I need to do another Phase I test period (albeit shorter)? It is the same engine / ptrop combination that I had before. I am planning to fly at least a few hours solo to make sure stuff settles back in - but I'm asking about the official requirements. > > Thanks, > Ralph > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 07, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Another Phase I?
The point of the question is that your operating limitations will say what additional testing you need if you make "major" changes. Major is defined in FAR 43, Appendix A. Reinstalling the same engine and prop are not major changes, not even minor changes, just maintenance. So just satisfy yourself that their performance is as good or better than what you started with, and record the maintenance and any operational check as satisfactory, and you are back to Phase II, unrestricted. Kelly EAA Tech Counselor A&P/IA On 9/7/2012 6:53 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Good suggestion - I'll check my OpLims..... > > > -----Original Message----- > From: "Ralph E. Capen" > Sent: Sep 7, 2012 9:42 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, rv-list > Cc: RV7 Yahoo list > Subject: RE: RV-List: Another Phase I? > > > Good suggestion - I'll check my OpLims..... > > -----Original Message----- > From: RV6 Flyer > Sent: Sep 7, 2012 9:07 AM > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Another Phase I? > > > Was there a major change as described in your operating limitations that would require a Phase I? > > >> Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 08:52:57 -0400 >> From: recapen(at)earthlink.net >> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV-List: Another Phase I? >> >> >> After experiencing a Derecho/Tornado induced prop strike by my hangar door, the engine and prop have been sent out and inspected. The prop is back and the engine is due back today. I'll be putting it back together over the next few weekends.... >> >> Do I need to do another Phase I test period (albeit shorter)? It is the same engine / ptrop combination that I had before. I am planning to fly at least a few hours solo to make sure stuff settles back in - but I'm asking about the official requirements. >> >> Thanks, >> Ralph >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad
Date: Sep 08, 2012
I flew several times recently with the new Google Nexus 7 tablet mostly for listening to music through my Bluetooth routed to my audio panel. What str uck me is how nearly perfect the 7" tablet is as a kneeboard replacement. T hat being the case I have a feeling that when Apple comes out with their 8" iPad mated with Foreflight or ??? that may be a very nice choice for cockp it use as the 10" iPad always seems to be a bit too large and in the way. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: IO360B / O360A Fuel pump gasket
Date: Sep 09, 2012
I am adding a fuel pump cooling shroud to help prevent vapor lock. The fuel pump gasket tore around the bolt-hole as I took the pump off to add the cooling shroud. Anyone know where to get a replacement gasket? It looks like an old chevy fuel pump gasket - in fact the pump has AC on the top... Thanks in advance, Ralph RV6A N822AR - reassembling after inspections brought on by the tornado induced prop strike by my hangar door. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IO360B / O360A Fuel pump gasket
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
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Date: Sep 09, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: IO360B / O360A Fuel pump gasket
Any place that carries standard Lycoming parts and gaskets will have it. On 9/9/2012 5:57 AM, RV6 Flyer wrote: > www.aeroinstock.com <http://www.aeroinstock.com> is where I purchased > mine at. > > Gary > Sent from my iPhone > > On Sep 9, 2012, at 5:39 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" > wrote: > >> I am adding a fuel pump cooling shroud to help prevent vapor lock. >> >> The fuel pump gasket tore around the bolt-hole as I took the pump off >> to add the cooling shroud. >> >> Anyone know where to get a replacement gasket? >> >> It looks like an old chevy fuel pump gasket in fact the pump has AC >> on the top.. >> >> Thanks in advance, >> >> Ralph >> >> RV6A N822AR reassembling after inspections brought on by the >> tornado induced prop strike by my hangar door. >> >> * >> >> >> * > ~,gM4Gqz.' > 8ER&j)EKj',.+- > 5h,x zfb+bz.r.+-R*m!y:0ZwEhy!!i0fr(Z(Tm > 'ojj+ERM $NEC&z > j(lVj^Yfr(mfr(*'gJ+^8L+i1m)j|-&j',rr&*'i0fr((nb{nrfl=== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: IO360B / O360A Fuel pump gasket
From: Randy Hooper <krhooper(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 09, 2012
If all else fails or you want to finish today, get some gasket material and c ut out your own. Randy Hooper Sent from my iPad On Sep 9, 2012, at 7:38 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: > I am adding a fuel pump cooling shroud to help prevent vapor lock. > The fuel pump gasket tore around the bolt-hole as I took the pump off to a dd the cooling shroud. > > Anyone know where to get a replacement gasket? > It looks like an old chevy fuel pump gasket =93 in fact the pump has AC on the top.. > > Thanks in advance, > Ralph > RV6A N822AR =93 reassembling after inspections brought on by the tor nado induced prop strike by my hangar door. > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)johndeere.com>
Date: Sep 10, 2012
Subject: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad
You might try the application "Naviator" on your Nexus tablet. There is a 30 day free trial in the Google Play store. I'm still in my 30 day window, so I don't know if I'll pull the trigger on it or not, but I think it is c ertainly worth a look. I'm in no way associated with the product. A friend just recently mentione d it to me, so I thought I would pass it along. I would be interested in y our evaluation if you do look at it. I've tried it on a 5" device which is just too small. Paul A. Fisher RV7A N18PF From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:50 AM Subject: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad I flew several times recently with the new Google Nexus 7 tablet mostly for listening to music through my Bluetooth routed to my audio panel. What str uck me is how nearly perfect the 7" tablet is as a kneeboard replacement. T hat being the case I have a feeling that when Apple comes out with their 8" iPad mated with Foreflight or ??? that may be a very nice choice for cockp it use as the 10" iPad always seems to be a bit too large and in the way. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Fuel pump cooling
For those of you that have installed a cooling shroud on your fuel pump, are you using the entire inch diameter for the flange hole to steal the air? Is it enough / too much? I'm thinking I might open it the full inch and put inserts to reduce it...but then how do I know what's enough..... Ralph ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel pump cooling
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
I used the 3/4" Vans corrugated cooling tube. It fits nicely inside the cooling shroud inlet. Not sure if I have too little cooling. It seems to work well on my RV-10 -Mike Kraus RV-10 Flying Sent from my iPhone On Sep 11, 2012, at 7:27 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: > > For those of you that have installed a cooling shroud on your fuel pump, are you using the entire inch diameter for the flange hole to steal the air? Is it enough / too much? > > I'm thinking I might open it the full inch and put inserts to reduce it...but then how do I know what's enough..... > > Ralph > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 11, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump cooling
Mike, Thanks for the info - I'm guessing that you don't have any hot-start problems or other evidence of vapor-lock. This would seem to be a good starting point... Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> >Sent: Sep 11, 2012 9:13 AM >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pump cooling > > >I used the 3/4" Vans corrugated cooling tube. It fits nicely inside the cooling shroud inlet. > >Not sure if I have too little cooling. It seems to work well on my RV-10 > >-Mike Kraus >RV-10 Flying > >Sent from my iPhone > >On Sep 11, 2012, at 7:27 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: > >> >> For those of you that have installed a cooling shroud on your fuel pump, are you using the entire inch diameter for the flange hole to steal the air? Is it enough / too much? >> >> I'm thinking I might open it the full inch and put inserts to reduce it...but then how do I know what's enough..... >> >> Ralph >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel pump cooling
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 11, 2012
I have an RV-10 with a fuel purge valve. So hot starts are not a problem. No idea how much the fuel pump air helps, but Logic says it has to. -Mike Sent from my iPhone On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:38 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: > > Mike, > > Thanks for the info - I'm guessing that you don't have any hot-start problems or other evidence of vapor-lock. > > This would seem to be a good starting point... > > Ralph > > > -----Original Message----- >> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> >> Sent: Sep 11, 2012 9:13 AM >> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel pump cooling >> >> >> I used the 3/4" Vans corrugated cooling tube. It fits nicely inside the cooling shroud inlet. >> >> Not sure if I have too little cooling. It seems to work well on my RV-10 >> >> -Mike Kraus >> RV-10 Flying >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Sep 11, 2012, at 7:27 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: >> >>> >>> For those of you that have installed a cooling shroud on your fuel pump, are you using the entire inch diameter for the flange hole to steal the air? Is it enough / too much? >>> >>> I'm thinking I might open it the full inch and put inserts to reduce it...but then how do I know what's enough..... >>> >>> Ralph >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 12, 2012
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: vapor lock / was Fuel pump cooling
Re: "... would be to remove heat when the engine is actually running. Without an auxiliary blower, nothing happens when the engine's not running." I saw a Glassair once around Charlotte that had two sets of lateral slots cut in top surface of the cowl, in the aft region of the cowl plenum box. (IE, no separate plenum on the engine...) There were conformal panels of composite sheet held against the inner surface of the cowl with bimetal springs. When the internal air temperature rose sufficiently, the vents opened, and convection took place. The owner said he never again had vapor lock issues, grinning from ear to ear. The slots wouldn't catch your eye as you walked up to the plane, and I'm a tall guy- Very clever and perfectly effective. Of course, it helps to park with the tail into the wind on a hot day- Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 13, 2012
Subject: Lyc Breather Tube
Can someone please shoot me some pictures or a link to their web-site of how your terminated your oil breather tube? I built mine like my Grumman Tiger with a 'whistle' shaped cutout in the aluminum inside the cowl so that warm air could keep the discharged oil from freezing on cold days. I'm not satisfied with this solution any longer and wanted to see what others are doing. Regards, David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFIS Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 13, 2012
From: BOB L WATSON <bob194bn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Lyc Breather Tube
Hey David=0A-=0ANo pictures but what I did was to install a Tee at top of vent line and put in a 2" air-filter /breather to relieve case pressure and vacuum from vent tube- in air stream out of cowl no freeze worries . and no belly oil. 700 Hr.s=0A-=0ABob Watson N194BN=0A=0A- =0A=0A_______ _________________________=0A From: David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 6:45 PM=0ASubje ct: RV-List: Lyc Breather Tube=0A =0A=0ACan someone please shoot me some p ictures or a link to their web-site of how your terminated your oil breathe r tube?- I built mine like my Grumman Tiger with a 'whistle' shaped cutou t in the aluminum inside the cowl so that warm air could keep the discharge d oil from freezing on cold days.- I'm not satisfied with this solution a ny longer and wanted to see what others are doing.- =0ARegards,David W. S chaefer=0ARV-6A N142DS- "Nerdgasm"=0ATMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma III s, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFIS=0ANow building N383DS - Zenith CH- =============== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Garmin 696 XM music question
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 16, 2012
I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -Mike Kraus KitFox SS7 building RV-10 Built and Flying RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Avoiding a Flip Over?
Date: Sep 17, 2012
Flyers and builders of Van's RV "A" models, I flipped my aircraft over and face a major rebuild. I wanted to send a message to the digest to give a heads-up to those of you who don't find the time to dwell in the forums. There is a device that could save your lives and could have saved major expense for me. It's called the AntiSplat device from AntiSplatAero. I'm convinced that my flip over could have been avoided if I'd had this. At the same strip two days later the identical aircraft arrived, an RV-9A, and they had AntiSplat fitted and had no problems on this somewhat bumpy grass strip. I could also improve my piloting skills, but that's a different chapter. At least the five-point harnesses did a great job. Snug 'em up tight folks, and carry that escape tool. It turns out that when you're upside down the canopy won't move, slider or tip-up, and the canopy is already smashed so the tool you need to get out is something that will snap off plexiglass. Also, don't expect to have the presence of mind to pick up your favourite escape tool before you undo your harness and land on your head, which might just disorientate you a bit, or even turn you around. A really pleasant surprise was to discover that the RV vent design results in no fuel loss when inverted accidentally. We saw a small amount drain out when the plane was righted, but while inverted it's good to take stock of the situation in the knowledge that you probably don't have fuel leaking. Ian Brown RV-9A C-GOHM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 17, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Engine mount bolt sizing
I have my engine and prop back from inspection after getting hit by the hangar door (tornado, derecho, straight-line winds). With only 168 hours on it - I'm going to re-use the rubber Lord mounts - but I am replacing the bolts, castle-nuts, and cotter pins...that brings me to my question: When I originally installed the engine, I used the sizes specified by the plans (AN7-43 for the uppers and AN7-44 for the lowers). In order to get the hole in the AN-310 castle nut to line up, each set took an extra (meaning a total of two) AN960-7 washers 'under' each castle-nut. It was not possible to get a standard wrench around the top-left castle-nut to tighten it. Since each set required an extra 960-7 washer to get it to line up, can I use one size shorter bolt for the re-do and eliminate the extra washers all around - also allowing me to get a regular wrench on the top-left nut??? Ralph RV6A N822AR @ N06 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mount bolt sizing
Date: Sep 17, 2012
Hi Ralph The proper length bolt will prevent any threads from bearing inside the hole which will damage the mount. If after you intall a shorter bolt all of the threads are out of the hole you should be fine. However, in the case you are describing I suspect if you use shorter bolts you will end up with threads in bearing which is a nono. Nikolaos Napoli On Sep 17, 2012, at 11:44 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: > > I have my engine and prop back from inspection after getting hit by the hangar door (tornado, derecho, straight-line winds). > > With only 168 hours on it - I'm going to re-use the rubber Lord mounts - but I am replacing the bolts, castle-nuts, and cotter pins...that brings me to my question: > > When I originally installed the engine, I used the sizes specified by the plans (AN7-43 for the uppers and AN7-44 for the lowers). In order to get the hole in the AN-310 castle nut to line up, each set took an extra (meaning a total of two) AN960-7 washers 'under' each castle-nut. It was not possible to get a standard wrench around the top-left castle-nut to tighten it. Since each set required an extra 960-7 washer to get it to line up, can I use one size shorter bolt for the re-do and eliminate the extra washers all around - also allowing me to get a regular wrench on the top-left nut??? > Ralph > RV6A N822AR @ N06 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 17, 2012
Subject: Re: Avoiding a Flip Over?
Hello Ian, Thanks for the post. I can really sympathize with you. I had a nose- over about 4 years ago. Took about $10K and 3 months to get back in the air. I slid off my runway making a turn in wet grass. Why didn't I just shut it down? My thought was if I get this thing stuck it will take me a half hour to get it out! I don't blame the nose gear design for my poor groundmanship, but several other flip-overs have happened around here which have made me afraid of my wonderful RV -- to the extent that I don't want to offer rides to friends. I just ordered the AntiSplat Nose Job for my RV-7A based on reading not just your post but also reading posts and watching the videos linked from the Vans Air Force site. I was off list for the past couple of years so I wasn't aware of this device until now. It sure looks good. This looks like the best improvement to the fragile nose gear design out there so far. If any of you nose wheel drivers haven't seen the videos mentioned above, you should. The one about the test fixture is especially enlightening. Anyone flying an -A model RV needs to be extremely careful because this type of accident happens when you least expect it. In my case I didn't flip clear over, but still had to tear the engine down and replace the propeller, engine mount, firewall and lower skin to fix the airplane. Others around here have not been so lucky. Two recent nose-overs resulted in total airframe losses. Thanks again Ian for the post and best of luck as you start the rebuilding process. Seriously, if I had it to do over again, I would take this opportunity to convert it to a tail dragger. Dan Hopper RV-7A IO-360 about 500 hours since 2004. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ian Brown Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 10:38 AM Subject: RV-List: Avoiding a Flip Over? --> RV-List message posted by: Ian Brown Flyers and builders of Van's RV "A" models, I flipped my aircraft over and face a major rebuild. I wanted to send a message to the digest to give a heads-up to those of you who don't find the time to dwell in the forums. There is a device that could save your lives and could have saved major expense for me. It's called the AntiSplat device from AntiSplatAero. I'm convinced that my flip over could have been avoided if I'd had this. At the same strip two days later the identical aircraft arrived, an RV-9A, and they had AntiSplat fitted and had no problems on this somewhat bumpy grass strip. I could also improve my piloting skills, but that's a different chapter. At least the five-point harnesses did a great job. Snug 'em up tight folks, and carry that escape tool. It turns out that when you're upside down the canopy won't move, slider or tip-up, and the canopy is already smashed so the tool you need to get out is something that will snap off plexiglass. Also, don't expect to have the presence of mind to pick up your favourite escape tool before you undo your harness and land on your head, which might just disorientate you a bit, or even turn you around. A really pleasant surprise was to discover that the RV vent design results in no fuel loss when inverted accidentally. We saw a small amount drain out when the plane was righted, but while inverted it's good to take stock of the situation in the knowledge that you probably don't have fuel leaking. Ian Brown RV-9A C-GOHM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: Garmin 696 XM music question
Date: Sep 17, 2012
Hi Mike, I can't really answer your question (was waiting and hoping someone would). I cannot imagine how adding a resistor (cutting the signal strength) would increase the audio level. The following is a link to what I did to get music into my head - Vx Aviation ASX-2B. Obviously, our setups are very different but I am happy with this product if it can help you (not related, just a happy customer). http://jdfinley.com/2012/06/30/stereo-music/ Hth, Jon -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:26 AM Subject: RV-List: Garmin 696 XM music question --> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15 audio panel. What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere and it would increase the output?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. -Mike Kraus KitFox SS7 building RV-10 Built and Flying RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-( Sent from my iPad ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad
Date: Sep 17, 2012
Hi Paul, I purchased Naviator a couple months ago. I'm running it on a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 which is a 7" tablet. I fly VFR only so my need is for sectionals. I am happy. http://jdfinley.com/2012/06/27/electronic-flight-bag/ Jon From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fisher Paul A. Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 6:09 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad You might try the application "Naviator" on your Nexus tablet. There is a 30 day free trial in the Google Play store. I'm still in my 30 day window, so I don't know if I'll pull the trigger on it or not, but I think it is certainly worth a look. I'm in no way associated with the product. A friend just recently mentioned it to me, so I thought I would pass it along. I would be interested in your evaluation if you do look at it. I've tried it on a 5" device which is just too small. Paul A. Fisher RV7A N18PF From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:50 AM Subject: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad I flew several times recently with the new Google Nexus 7 tablet mostly for listening to music through my Bluetooth routed to my audio panel. What struck me is how nearly perfect the 7" tablet is as a kneeboard replacement. That being the case I have a feeling that when Apple comes out with their 8" iPad mated with Foreflight or ??? that may be a very nice choice for cockpit use as the 10" iPad always seems to be a bit too large and in the way. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 18, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine mount bolt sizing
Nikolaos, Thanks for your insight - I will check that before I finish. Vans official answer was that it was OK based on the bolt length - but this is important also... Ralph -----Original Message----- >From: Nikolaos Napoli <napolin(at)me.com> >Sent: Sep 17, 2012 5:43 PM >To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount bolt sizing > > >Hi Ralph > >The proper length bolt will prevent any threads from bearing inside the hole which will damage the mount. If after you intall a shorter bolt all of the threads are out of the hole you should be fine. >However, in the case you are describing I suspect if you use shorter bolts you will end up with threads in bearing which is a nono. > >Nikolaos Napoli > >On Sep 17, 2012, at 11:44 AM, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: > >> >> I have my engine and prop back from inspection after getting hit by the hangar door (tornado, derecho, straight-line winds). >> >> With only 168 hours on it - I'm going to re-use the rubber Lord mounts - but I am replacing the bolts, castle-nuts, and cotter pins...that brings me to my question: >> >> When I originally installed the engine, I used the sizes specified by the plans (AN7-43 for the uppers and AN7-44 for the lowers). In order to get the hole in the AN-310 castle nut to line up, each set took an extra (meaning a total of two) AN960-7 washers 'under' each castle-nut. It was not possible to get a standard wrench around the top-left castle-nut to tighten it. Since each set required an extra 960-7 washer to get it to line up, can I use one size shorter bolt for the re-do and eliminate the extra washers all around - also allowing me to get a regular wrench on the top-left nut??? >> Ralph >> RV6A N822AR @ N06 >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)JohnDeere.com>
Date: Sep 18, 2012
Subject: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad
Thanks Jon! I was particularly curious about the 7" tablet. I'm glad to h ear that you think it is useful on that size. The 10" would show more data , but it takes up more room too. I know you have a small cockpit (yes, siz e does matter!), but do you think the 10" would be more useful? At this po int I'm trying to decide if I want a 7 or 10 inch model. I've got a 5" Galaxy Player (it's what I already had!), and it is just too small to be useful. If I zoom out far enough to see where I'm going, I can 't read the screen - if I zoom in to read the screen, I can only see about 10 miles ahead! Thanks for your report! - Paul From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Finley Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:27 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad Hi Paul, I purchased Naviator a couple months ago. I'm running it on a Samsung Gala xy Tab 2 which is a 7" tablet. I fly VFR only so my need is for sectional s. I am happy. http://jdfinley.com/2012/06/27/electronic-flight-bag/ Jon From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matron ics.com> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fisher Pa ul A. Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 6:09 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad You might try the application "Naviator" on your Nexus tablet. There is a 30 day free trial in the Google Play store. I'm still in my 30 day window, so I don't know if I'll pull the trigger on it or not, but I think it is c ertainly worth a look. I'm in no way associated with the product. A friend just recently mentione d it to me, so I thought I would pass it along. I would be interested in y our evaluation if you do look at it. I've tried it on a 5" device which is just too small. Paul A. Fisher RV7A N18PF From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matron ics.com> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:50 AM ics.com Subject: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad I flew several times recently with the new Google Nexus 7 tablet mostly for listening to music through my Bluetooth routed to my audio panel. What str uck me is how nearly perfect the 7" tablet is as a kneeboard replacement. T hat being the case I have a feeling that when Apple comes out with their 8" iPad mated with Foreflight or ??? that may be a very nice choice for cockp it use as the 10" iPad always seems to be a bit too large and in the way. Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad
Date: Sep 18, 2012
Well. some very crude "measurements" - all based on my old and tired eyes.. With the zoom level set such that I can easily read the details, in full screen mode, and my position scrolled to the 'bottom' of the display; I can view about 40 miles 'forward' and about 10 miles either side of my route. Zooming out one level more, I can view about twice those distance. The details (frequencies, altitudes, etc.) are still readable at that zoom but I have to work at it. This is ok for semi-familiar areas or just general x-country navigation. I suspect (no experience) that a 10" unit would be uncomfortably big in my little (RV-3) cockpit. If there were enough panel space, mounting something this big on the panel would be really neat (like Mike Dwyer has done in his Q200). One thing my little brain had to absorb during the switch to the EFB was the inability to see the "whole sectional" - I didn't realize how much I looked way ahead when on an x-country. You can still do that with an EFB but it takes scrolling. When doing this, the 'return to my position' button is your friend. The other operational change that I made was to make better use of my old, panel mounted, Garmin 296 GPS. Things like airport and airspace info are all there. Previously, I would refer to the sectional for this info and so it has taken some effort to switch from looking at a sectional to referring to the GPS instead. The result of this is that I need to reference the tablet less often. I haven't yet figured out a good way to view MOA type airspace details on Naviator. It is probably there though. Stay low and go fast, I guess. Jon http://jdfinley.com From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fisher Paul A. Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 5:56 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad Thanks Jon! I was particularly curious about the 7" tablet. I'm glad to hear that you think it is useful on that size. The 10" would show more data, but it takes up more room too. I know you have a small cockpit (yes, size does matter!), but do you think the 10" would be more useful? At this point I'm trying to decide if I want a 7 or 10 inch model. I've got a 5" Galaxy Player (it's what I already had!), and it is just too small to be useful. If I zoom out far enough to see where I'm going, I can't read the screen - if I zoom in to read the screen, I can only see about 10 miles ahead! Thanks for your report! - Paul From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Finley Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:27 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad Hi Paul, I purchased Naviator a couple months ago. I'm running it on a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 which is a 7" tablet. I fly VFR only so my need is for sectionals. I am happy. http://jdfinley.com/2012/06/27/electronic-flight-bag/ Jon From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fisher Paul A. Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 6:09 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad You might try the application "Naviator" on your Nexus tablet. There is a 30 day free trial in the Google Play store. I'm still in my 30 day window, so I don't know if I'll pull the trigger on it or not, but I think it is certainly worth a look. I'm in no way associated with the product. A friend just recently mentioned it to me, so I thought I would pass it along. I would be interested in your evaluation if you do look at it. I've tried it on a 5" device which is just too small. Paul A. Fisher RV7A N18PF From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:50 AM Subject: RV-List: Nexus 7" Tablet / 8" iPad I flew several times recently with the new Google Nexus 7 tablet mostly for listening to music through my Bluetooth routed to my audio panel. What struck me is how nearly perfect the 7" tablet is as a kneeboard replacement. That being the case I have a feeling that when Apple comes out with their 8" iPad mated with Foreflight or ??? that may be a very nice choice for cockpit use as the 10" iPad always seems to be a bit too large and in the way. Robin http://w====================bsp; <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - http://forums.matronics.combsp; - List Contribution Wenbsp; -Matt href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/co ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Date: Sep 19, 2012
Subject: Flying the Grandchildren
OK .. I see all the pictures on VansAirforce of folks flying their young grandchildren. What's everyone's opinion on the right age to take them for their first flight? Thanks... David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFIS Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flying the Grandchildren
From: Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com>
Date: Sep 19, 2012
I have found that it is really not about age as much as their sense of adven ture. Some of my grandkids flew with me when they were four while one was st ill reluctant at fourteen. Main thing is that it has to be their decision as long as the parents are OK with it. Dale Ensing RV-6A N118DE On Sep 19, 2012, at 8:38 PM, David Schaefer wrote: > OK .. I see all the pictures on VansAirforce of folks flying their young g randchildren. What's everyone's opinion on the right age to take them for t heir first flight? > > Thanks... > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFI S > Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 19, 2012
Subject: Re: Flying the Grandchildren
From: Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com>
Dale: My grandaughter was nine and grandson five when I took them for their first rides in my newly completed RV-7A - they both enjoyed the rides, my grandaughter more so than her brother - she is now 12 and insists we go flying and that she get some stick time every time she visits - we took them both to Hawaii for three weeks this summer - she got a beaufiful ride in a classic WACO UPF-7 out of Dillingham Airfield on Oahu but was a bit disappointed when she had to settle for the historic/scenic ride instead of the aerobatic ride due to FAA regs about parachutes - enjoy your grandchildren and by all means take them flying - I would have started them at five or six if my plane had been flying - Dan Bergeron RV-7A - N307TB 355 hours since first flight on 08/04/09 On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 8:50 PM, Dale Ensing wrote: > I have found that it is really not about age as much as their sense of > adventure. Some of my grandkids flew with me when they were four while one > was still reluctant at fourteen. Main thing is that it has to be their > decision as long as the parents are OK with it. > > Dale Ensing > RV-6A N118DE > > On Sep 19, 2012, at 8:38 PM, David Schaefer wrote: > > OK .. I see all the pictures on VansAirforce of folks flying their young > grandchildren. What's everyone's opinion on the right age to take them for > their first flight? > > Thanks... > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX > EFIS > Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! > > * > > * > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flying the Grandchildren
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Date: Sep 20, 2012
My kids are 5 and 7 now, and I take them flying regularly in my RV-10. My d aughter was 3 when she went on her first flight in my RV-4. But that was af ter having her sit in the plane a lot and did 2-3 taxi trips around the airp ort with her. Like others have said, it's more about the child and their comfort more than their age. -Mike Kraus RV-4 sold RV-10 flying KitFox SS7 building Sent from my iPhone On Sep 19, 2012, at 8:38 PM, David Schaefer wrote: > OK .. I see all the pictures on VansAirforce of folks flying their young g randchildren. What's everyone's opinion on the right age to take them for t heir first flight? > > Thanks... > > David W. Schaefer > RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" > TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFI S > Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dean Pichon <deanpichon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Flying the Grandchildren
Date: Sep 20, 2012
I started flying my kids in my -4 when they turned 6 and only after they as ked for a ride. When they were 5 they flew several times in my friend's Na vion. The minute my -4 blew by them=2C they wanted to fly in Daddy's plane . Now=2C all they want to do is aileron rolls everytime we fly. Regards=2C From: n142ds(at)gmail.com Date: Wed=2C 19 Sep 2012 19:38:42 -0500 Subject: RV-List: Flying the Grandchildren OK .. I see all the pictures on VansAirforce of folks flying their young gr andchildren. What's everyone's opinion on the right age to take them for t heir first flight? Thanks... David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs=2C Hartzell Blended Airfoil=2C GRT HX EFIS Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 20, 2012
Subject: FL> Wing VAF Fly-in
From: Ollie Washburn <ollie6a(at)gmail.com>
(FL) Loves Landing Airpark (97FL) Annual BBQ FL. Wing VAF Annual BBQ lunch hosted by EAA Chapter 1236 This is the big one and we also invite our GA neighbors to come on down. Saturday, Nov 3rd.@ Loves Landing Airpark (97FL)--122.9--N28*57.42 W081*53.29--- 9.8 nm N of Leesburg (LEE) Rain date-- Sun. Nov 4th. Coffee and doughnuts for early birds and lunch at noon. Ollies FamousPork BBQ Hamburgers,Hotdogs & all the fixins. No planned events, just lots of hanger bs All fly-ins welcome. $10.00 donation, drinks incl. *Note-This is private airpark. Land at your own risk ollie6a(at)gmail.com 352 750 5312 Cell 352 205 9375 -- >From Central Florida, Ollie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Sep 20, 2012
Subject: Re: Flying the Grandchildren
David, I agree that kids should ask to be taken for a ride. If its their idea it will be a lot more meaningful to them. I think anything less than 5 or 6 is too young -- they'll probably not remember it when they grow a little older, so why take the risk? Now here's the problem I have with my 8 year old (step) grandson. He really wants to go for a ride, but his mom forbids it. In fact my step-son is now also forbidden to fly with me. I asked why and she said there was nothing to keep the plane in the air! This girl has a college degree, and flies commercially, so I doubt if that's the real reason. I admit that statistically flying commercially is safer, so I'm sure that's why. I think if my grandson wants to fly badly enough he will, eventually. But I can't go against his mother's wishes, er, orders. Dan RV-7A N766DH AntiSplat nose gear brace on order. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cliff dominey <csdjbtexas(at)live.com>
Subject: Need replacement wheels for 8A project
Date: Sep 22, 2012
Am restoring an 8A project=2C and need to replace the main wheels. If anyo ne is parting out their Cleveland 5x500's (or equivalent Matco?) pls let me know. Thanks. Cliff Dominey Galveston N977CD (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cliff dominey <csdjbtexas(at)live.com>
Subject: Need replacement wheels for 8A project
Date: Sep 22, 2012
A little too quick there on the "send" key - Email address is csdjbtexas(at)live.com C Dominey Galveston From: csdjbtexas(at)live.com Subject: RV-List: Need replacement wheels for 8A project Date: Sat=2C 22 Sep 2012 14:57:18 -0500 Am restoring an 8A project=2C and need to replace the main wheels. If anyo ne is parting out their Cleveland 5x500's (or equivalent Matco?) pls let me know. Thanks. Cliff Dominey Galveston N977CD (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 500-5 wheels
From: John DeCuir <jadecuir(at)comcast.net>
Date: Sep 23, 2012
I have one wheel assy, new, less brake disc. Make offer? John DeCuir N204CP, RV4 Salinas, CA > From: cliff dominey <csdjbtexas(at)live.com> > Subject: RV-List: Need replacement wheels for 8A project > > > Am restoring an 8A project=2C and need to replace the main wheels. If anyo > ne is parting out their Cleveland 5x500's (or equivalent Matco?) pls let me > know. Thanks. > Cliff Dominey > Galveston N977CD (reserved) > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ > > > From: cliff dominey <csdjbtexas(at)live.com> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Need replacement wheels for 8A project > > > A little too quick there on the "send" key - > > Email address is csdjbtexas(at)live.com > > C Dominey > Galveston > > > From: csdjbtexas(at)live.com > Subject: RV-List: Need replacement wheels for 8A project > > > Am restoring an 8A project=2C and need to replace the main wheels. If anyo > ne is parting out their Cleveland 5x500's (or equivalent Matco?) pls let me > know. Thanks. > Cliff Dominey > Galveston N977CD (reserved) > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cliff dominey <csdjbtexas(at)live.com>
Subject: Re: 500-5 wheels
Date: Sep 24, 2012
Seems to be a few folks out there with sets to let go of. Is everybody upg rading to the Matco? Thanks=2C but I need to keep shopping... Cliff D. > Subject: RV-List: Re: 500-5 wheels > From: jadecuir(at)comcast.net > Date: Sun=2C 23 Sep 2012 11:36:10 -0700 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > > I have one wheel assy=2C new=2C less brake disc. Make offer? > John DeCuir > N204CP=2C RV4 > Salinas=2C CA > > From: cliff dominey <csdjbtexas(at)live.com> > > Subject: RV-List: Need replacement wheels for 8A project > > > > > > Am restoring an 8A project=2C and need to replace the main wheels. If anyo > > ne is parting out their Cleveland 5x500's (or equivalent Matco?) pls le t me > > know. Thanks. > > Cliff Dominey > > Galveston N977CD (reserved) > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 ____________________________ _________ > > > > > > From: cliff dominey <csdjbtexas(at)live.com> > > Subject: RE: RV-List: Need replacement wheels for 8A project > > > > > > A little too quick there on the "send" key - > > > > Email address is csdjbtexas(at)live.com > > > > C Dominey > > Galveston > > > > > > From: csdjbtexas(at)live.com > > Subject: RV-List: Need replacement wheels for 8A project > > > > > > Am restoring an 8A project=2C and need to replace the main wheels. If anyo > > ne is parting out their Cleveland 5x500's (or equivalent Matco?) pls le t me > > know. Thanks. > > Cliff Dominey > > Galveston N977CD (reserved) > > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Sep 27, 2012
From: "mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au" <mmul6471(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: RV's in South Africa.
Howdy, I have put my RV9A on hold while I spend a year or two working as a volunteer in Tanzania. My wife and I are heading for some R and R in Capetown. Any Rv builders near Capetown that are interested in a visit - particularly anyone Installing MGL avionics. Mick.m at schoolofstjude.co.tz ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: Backcountry Flying and Mountain Biking
Date: Sep 26, 2012
This past weekend I was able to combine some RV flying, two backcountry airstrips, and mountain biking. What an awesome combination! I've posted the report here on my blog <http://jdfinley.com/2012/09/26/me-own-backcountry-flightride/> including a video of the Me-Own backcountry airstrip. Be sure to click on the 'full screen' option on the video to get it big enough to see things. Hope you enjoy. Jon http://jdfinley.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 05, 2012
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question.....
HI Guys- This is a subject area that triggers heated debates all the way up to heavy cockpits. The source guidance for this particular issue can be found in FAR 61.51(e)(1)(iii) which states, paraphrased, that when ACTING as PIC you can log PIC. While the statemant that there is only one PIC aboard is correct, it is also correct that when one pilot (the real PIC) is under the hood in VMC, he can not fully discharge his duties. The safety pilot is an FAR required position and can only be filled by someone with the appropriate category and class ratings. Per the reg cited above, the safety pilot gets to log PIC and it does indeed count towards his next certificate or rating. Tailwheel and complex / high perf endorsements are not an issue. If you guys think this stuff is sticky, get a couple heavy pilots to discuss logging bunk time on multi-crew long haul flights... however, not only is the black ink on the white page, but the FAA website has a section for legal interpretations that spells out how DC views these issues. Subject: RV-List: Almost an RV question..... >From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com > >Hi folks, here is the scenario > >I'm a low time RV7 pilot wanting to stay IFR current in my IFR legal RV7 >(tailwheel) with the Dynon Skyview installed > >My hangar neighbor is a newly minted IFR pilot wanting to build time >towards his commercial rating. He flies a complex, High performance Sokata >Trinidad. He does not have a tailwheel endorsment and I do not have either >a complex or high performance endorsement. > >Can either of us log time as safety pilot for the other while the other is >under the hood? Can either of us legally be safety pilots for each other? >(Maybe that is the same question) > >If I went and got an endorsement in a complex airplane (the local flight >school does not have a complex, High Performance anymore) and flew with him >as safety pilot could any of that time be logged towards the requirement >for complex time for my commercial rating? > >Thanks in advance for the answers..... > Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 06, 2012
Subject: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question.....
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com
So, if I am in a complex aircraft acting as PIC because I am the safety pilot, can I count that as some of the complex time needed for my commercial? Even though I am not checked out, nor insured to fly that aircraft? I am, however, current in my RV7 with a current class II medical. Greg On Oct 5, 2012 1:41 AM, "Glen Matejcek" wrote: > > HI Guys- > > This is a subject area that triggers heated debates all the way up to > heavy cockpits. The source guidance for this particular issue can be found > in FAR 61.51(e)(1)(iii) which states, paraphrased, that when ACTING as PIC > you can log PIC. While the statemant that there is only one PIC aboard is > correct, it is also correct that when one pilot (the real PIC) is under the > hood in VMC, he can not fully discharge his duties. The safety pilot is an > FAR required position and can only be filled by someone with the > appropriate category and class ratings. Per the reg cited above, the > safety pilot gets to log PIC and it does indeed count towards his next > certificate or rating. Tailwheel and complex / high perf endorsements are > not an issue. > > If you guys think this stuff is sticky, get a couple heavy pilots to > discuss logging bunk time on multi-crew long haul flights... however, not > only is the black ink on the white page, but the FAA website has a section > for legal interpretations that spells out how DC views these issues. > > Subject: RV-List: Almost an RV question..... > >From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com > > > >Hi folks, here is the scenario > > > >I'm a low time RV7 pilot wanting to stay IFR current in my IFR legal RV7 > >(tailwheel) with the Dynon Skyview installed > > > >My hangar neighbor is a newly minted IFR pilot wanting to build time > >towards his commercial rating. He flies a complex, High performance > Sokata > >Trinidad. He does not have a tailwheel endorsment and I do not have > either > >a complex or high performance endorsement. > > > >Can either of us log time as safety pilot for the other while the other is > >under the hood? Can either of us legally be safety pilots for each other? > >(Maybe that is the same question) > > > >If I went and got an endorsement in a complex airplane (the local flight > >school does not have a complex, High Performance anymore) and flew with > him > >as safety pilot could any of that time be logged towards the requirement > >for complex time for my commercial rating? > > > >Thanks in advance for the answers..... > > > > > Glen Matejcek > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2012
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 10/06/12
HI Greg- That is an excellent question and example. Starting at the back end and working forward, if you read the regs from end to end, you will never come across the concepts of "check out" or "insurance". The basic FAA qualification scheme involves category and class, and then type ratings for turbojets and anything over 12,500 pounds. Some weaknesses in this scheme became apparent over time, and one-time endorsements evolved. In the context of this discussion, High Performance, Complex, and Conventional Gear come to mind. However, only certificate, category, and class are noted in the reg in question here. So, had you gotten a multi engine rating in a Champion Lancer, you could be safety pilot in a twin Beech. How's that for a stretch? But the salient point is that you are ACTING as PIC, not BEING PIC. So yes, in the example you cited, your safety pilot time would count towards your requirements. The bit of trivia I don't posess is whether a safety pilot needs a valid medical cert for operations in VMC. I suspect the answer is no since a med cert is not mentioned in either 61.51 (logging time) or 91.109 (safety pilot), but I am also pretty confident the average safety inspector, when put on the spot and absent the specific knowledge, would default to the most conervative answer. Now, what an FBO or an insurance company requires to protect itself from liability is an entirely separate hurdle. Functionally those hurdles are as significant as the regulatory ones, and in the pilot lounge the significance of and distinction between the sources of the hurdles can become blurred. As a tangential issue, when you take instruction for your commercial certificate, your CFI will not need a valid medical certificate. This is because you will be qualified for the operations conducted, and as such you will be PIC, not acting PIC. As long as there is a real PIC aboard, you are good to go. To take training towards an Instrument certificate in IMC would require the CFII to have a valid medical certificate, as the student would not be qualified for that particular operation. (since there is no such thing as an FAA aerobatic certificate or endorsement, you can take acro dual from anybody, with or without a CFI. You just can't count that 'dual' for an FAA certificate or rating of any sort. Of course, 'anybody' is not a good concept WRT acro, but that is a whole 'nuther topic). Now, this list being what it is, surely someone somewhere is already searching the back of the fridge for an old tomato. What I recommend to others is what I do myself: Don't take someone else's word, including mine, for any of this. Read the pertinent regs, and go to the FAA website and pull up the legal interpretations on the topic. Also, I myself have the good fortune to know several good folks in the FAA that I can count on for straight answers, including "Huh... I'll have to look that one up!" >Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question..... >From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com > >So, if I am in a complex aircraft acting as PIC because I am the safety >pilot, can I count that as some of the complex time needed for my >commercial? Even though I am not checked out, nor insured to fly that >aircraft? I am, however, current in my RV7 with a current class II >medical. > >Greg >On Oct 5, 2012 1:41 AM, "Glen Matejcek" wrote: > >> >> HI Guys- >> >> This is a subject area that triggers heated debates all the way up to >> heavy cockpits. The source guidance for this particular issue can be found >> in FAR 61.51(e)(1)(iii) which states, paraphrased, that when ACTING as PIC >> you can log PIC. While the statemant that there is only one PIC aboard is >> correct, it is also correct that when one pilot (the real PIC) is under the >> hood in VMC, he can not fully discharge his duties. The safety pilot is an >> FAR required position and can only be filled by someone with the >> appropriate category and class ratings. Per the reg cited above, the >> safety pilot gets to log PIC and it does indeed count towards his next >> certificate or rating. Tailwheel and complex / high perf endorsements are >> not an issue. >> >> If you guys think this stuff is sticky, get a couple heavy pilots to >> discuss logging bunk time on multi-crew long haul flights... however, not >> only is the black ink on the white page, but the FAA website has a section >> for legal interpretations that spells out how DC views these issues. Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question.....
Date: Oct 07, 2012
NO you cannot use the complex time toward your Commercial rating. The Comm ercial rating requires that you have 10-hours of instruction in complex air planes. Ref 61.129http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR .nsf/0/6B2FADCE6B2C97E88625768D0073A7A1?OpenDocument (ii) 10 hours of training in an airplane that has a retractable landing =0A gear=2C flaps=2C and a controllable pitch propeller=2C or is turbine-powere d=2C =0A or for an applicant seeking a single-engine seaplane rating=2C 10 hours of =0A training in a seaplane that has flaps and a controllable pitch =0A propeller=3B=0A Now if you can get the other person to sign you off as having instruction =2C then you would be able to use it. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C640+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA Date: Sat=2C 6 Oct 2012 22:18:59 -0700 Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: logging PIC time=2C was Almost an RV question.... . From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com So=2C if I am in a complex aircraft acting as PIC because I am the safety p ilot=2C can I count that as some of the complex time needed for my commerci al? Even though I am not checked out=2C nor insured to fly that aircraft ? I am=2C however=2C current in my RV7 with a current class II medical. =0A =0A Greg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2012
Subject: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question.....
From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com
So lets see, do I have to get this ten hours of training from a CFI or from my experienced neighbor with the complex airplane? Greg On Oct 7, 2012 7:51 AM, "RV6 Flyer" wrote: > NO you cannot use the complex time toward your Commercial rating. The > Commercial rating requires that you have 10-hours of instruction in complex > airplanes. > > Ref 61.129 > > http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/6B2FADCE6B2C97E88625768D0073A7A1?OpenDocument > > *(ii) 10 hours of training in an airplane that has a retractable landing > gear, flaps, and a controllable pitch propeller, or is turbine-powered, or > for an applicant seeking a single-engine seaplane rating, 10 hours of > training in a seaplane that has flaps and a controllable pitch propeller; > * > > Now if you can get the other person to sign you off as having instruction, > then you would be able to use it. > > Gary A. Sobek > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, > 2,640+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA > > ------------------------------ > Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 22:18:59 -0700 > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question..... > From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > So, if I am in a complex aircraft acting as PIC because I am the safety > pilot, can I count that as some of the complex time needed for my > commercial? Even though I am not checked out, nor insured to fly that > aircraft? I am, however, current in my RV7 with a current class II > medical. > Greg > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question.....
Only a CFI can give *required* instruction time. Ratings have experience requirements and instruction requirements. This is an instruction requirement. On 10/7/2012 8:07 AM, mr.gsun(at)gmail.com wrote: > > So lets see, do I have to get this ten hours of training from a CFI > or from my experienced neighbor with the complex airplane? > > Greg > > On Oct 7, 2012 7:51 AM, "RV6 Flyer" > wrote: > > NO you cannot use the complex time toward your Commercial rating. > The Commercial rating requires that you have 10-hours of > instruction in complex airplanes. > > Ref 61.129 > http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/6B2FADCE6B2C97E88625768D0073A7A1?OpenDocument > > /(ii) 10 hours of training in an airplane that has a retractable > landing gear, flaps, and a controllable pitch propeller, or is > turbine-powered, or for an applicant seeking a single-engine > seaplane rating, 10 hours of training in a seaplane that has flaps > and a controllable pitch propeller; / > > Now if you can get the other person to sign you off as having > instruction, then you would be able to use it. > > Gary A. Sobek > "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, > 2,640+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 22:18:59 -0700 > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV > question..... > From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com <mailto:mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > > So, if I am in a complex aircraft acting as PIC because I am the > safety pilot, can I count that as some of the complex time needed > for my commercial? Even though I am not checked out, nor > insured to fly that aircraft? I am, however, current in my RV7 > with a current class II medical. > Greg > > * > > t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > tp://forums.matronics.com > _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > * > > > * ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Shannon Miller <apebiz(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 07, 2012
Subject: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question.....
However, time logged as SIC (safety pilot) DOES count toward the 250 hours total flight time requirement of the commercial certificate. 14 CFR 61.129(a). As for logging PIC when you are safety pilot, yes, that's possible as well (for the time the PF is under the hood), when certain conditions are met and prior agreement is made. It's not something to take lightly, however. Google around and you'll find some really good AOPA/etc. guidance on this, complete with LOIs from the FAA. Oddly, there are also situations when you are ACTING PIC (14 CFR 1.1, under "Pilot in command"), fully responsible for the safety of the flight, but can NOT log it. For example, say you're checked out in your complex ASEL aircraft and you and your friend go on a one-hour flight together. Your friend is a private pilot ASEL with no complex endorsement, but you let him do all the flying except for takeoff and landing. You watch him like a hawk because you're acting PIC -- your butt is on the line if anything happens. Since your friend is a private pilot with an ASEL rating (an endorsement is not a rating), and was sole manipulator of the controls, he gets to log that one hour of flight time as PIC (14 CFR 61.51(e)(1)(i). But since neither of you were under the hood and only one pilot was required at a time, you may NOT log that flight time (except for the time you were actually manipulating the controls yourself, for taxi, takeoff, and landing)! Seems unfair, I know. There are other situations like this as well. So, ACTING PIC and LOGGING PIC are two totally different things. You can log PIC during times you are not actually acting PIC, and vice versa. So there is a whole lot of confusion on it all. Gotta love the FAA. --Shannon Miller, CFI RV-7A, Wings On Oct 7, 2012, at 7:51, RV6 Flyer wrote: NO you cannot use the complex time toward your Commercial rating. The Commercial rating requires that you have 10-hours of instruction in complex airplanes. Ref 61.129 http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/6B2FADCE6B2C97E88625768D0073A7A1?OpenDocument *(ii) 10 hours of training in an airplane that has a retractable landing gear, flaps, and a controllable pitch propeller, or is turbine-powered, or for an applicant seeking a single-engine seaplane rating, 10 hours of training in a seaplane that has flaps and a controllable pitch propeller; * Now if you can get the other person to sign you off as having instruction, then you would be able to use it. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 2,640+ Flying Hours So. CA, USA ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 22:18:59 -0700 Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question..... From: mr.gsun(at)gmail.com So, if I am in a complex aircraft acting as PIC because I am the safety pilot, can I count that as some of the complex time needed for my commercial? Even though I am not checked out, nor insured to fly that aircraft? I am, however, current in my RV7 with a current class II medical. Greg * * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2012
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: logging PIC time, was Almost an RV question.....
This is a perfect example of how things can get twisted and even heated in the pilot lounge. > >NO you cannot use the complex time toward your Commercial rating. The Comm >ercial rating requires that you have 10-hours of instruction in complex air >planes. The question asked referred to using safety pilot time towards a commercial certificate. Nowhere was it suggested that time be used to meet the instruction rec'd requirements. FAR 61.129 specifies, among many other things, that the applicant have 250 hrs as pilot. Safety pilot is pilot time. Of those 250 hrs, 50 need to be in airplanes, and the aircraft in question is indeed an airplane. Further, of those 250 hrs of pilot time, only 100 needs to be PIC. Chew on that one for a minute! Also, 50 hrs of cross country are required with various sub-requirements, as well as night flight requirements. So, we can see there are many subcategories of the flight time requirement for a commercial ticket, and time spent as safety pilot can be used to fulfill multiple of them. Have you got glider time? Balloon? Rotorcraft? Those all count, too. If you read the reg, you might notice that 'single engine' is rarely mentioned. Been sitting right seat in an old warbird, logging SIC under part 91? That counts, as well. Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Paper, Paper, Paper
Date: Oct 08, 2012
I was taking a commercial flight back from the east coast yesterday. While boarding the plane I was holding in line at the door watching the pilot fli pping through the large scale version of a Pilots Guide (to his left) and i nserting various colored tabs on different pages. I also saw a few pages fa ll out. He then refocused his attention to a scroll of pin feed paper print ed on what I recall as a Dot Matrix printer which was state of the art in t he 1970's. I had to snap a photo to share. Unnoticed at the time was the pa per on the dash, the paper on the center console & the book on the far righ t. #Old-school [Description: C:\Users\Robin\Desktop\Paper.JPG] Robin ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2012
From: Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paper, Paper, Paper
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2012
From: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
Subject: Re: Paper, Paper, Paper
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2012
Subject: Prop overhaul
From: David Schaefer <n142ds(at)gmail.com>
Does anyone know where in Kansas City you can get a Hartzell overhauled? Thanks... DWS -- David W. Schaefer RV-6A N142DS "Nerdgasm" TMX-IO360 Dual-LightSpeed Plasma IIIs, Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT HX EFIS Now building N383DS - Zenith CH-750! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2012
Subject: Exciting New Product Updates from Aircraft Specialty
From: Aircraft Specialty <aircraftspecialty(at)gmail.com>
Aircraft Specialty is excited to announce a website renovation as well as several exciting new parts for aircraft builders and owners. 1. We have developed an aftermarket flap handle that fits over a standard toggle switch. It is a unique product unlike any other that is currently offered. Our handle solves the problem of the rotating toggle switch. More information is available at http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/rvall1.html 2. We have created a great looking alternate static system. Ours will integrate with the popular SafeAir1 system that so many are using. In addition, it will also be a component of our own in house static system that we are currently working on. More info is available at http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/rvall1.html 3. We now do custom battery cables in addition to custom fuel hoses. As always, we know that your time is valuable and so have created interactive pricing applications that lets you spec and order your exact hose/cable online without having to call for a quote. More information is available at http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/wire/batterycables.html and http://www.kitplanehoses.com 4. We now offer our first CNC machined part specifically for an RV-10. It is the U-1024 spacers for the nose wheel. We are planning on adding more parts over time. More information is available at http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/rv10products.html 5. We still offer our high quality fuel cap engraving, but now stock the standard fuel cap top castings and tabs so that we are able to engrave the parts and ship them to our customers if they choose not to send theirs to us off of a flying aircraft. More information is available at www.aircraftspecialty.com/engraving.html This is a complete website renovation. In addition, due to increasing volume purchases, we have been able to secure even better pricing on some of our products such as cleco fasteners. Rather than keeping our already low pricing the same, we have reduced our pricing to reflect our lower cost structure and are excited to be able to pass it on to our customers. Once again, we would like to thank all our customers and will continue to work extremely hard to earn your business. Have a great day and fly safe, Steve and Dawn www.aircraftspecialty.com www.kitplanemods.com www.kitplanehoses.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2012
From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Slobovia Pumpkin Drop 2012 invitation
Y'all come! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: PDF plates
Anyone know of a suitable replacement for PDFplates? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: PDF plates
Date: Oct 11, 2012
Did not know they were shutting down. Thanks for the info. I use Foreflight and only occasionally need a hardcopy. You can get individual plates in PDF from www.airnav.com but not a complete copy. I thought AOPA also had PDF plates available but cannot find the link. The FAA was suppose to start charging but here is a link to their website. http://avn.faa.gov/index.asp?xml=aeronav/applications/d_tpp I was able to download Takeoff Minimums for an airport near me. It was the entire section out of the SW3 TPP. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C650+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > Date: Thu=2C 11 Oct 2012 16:16:30 -0400 > From: recapen(at)earthlink.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: PDF plates > > > Anyone know of a suitable replacement for PDFplates? > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: New Factory Built Van's RV-12s!
This is pretty cool!! Watch the video, then read the press release! <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xIU2QOCujk&feature=youtu.be>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xIU2QOCujk&feature=youtu.be http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/open/SLSA-press_release.pdf Yeaa Van's! Matt - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 120+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: FW: [RV Builders] Re: PDF plates
Date: Oct 12, 2012
FYI -----Original Message----- From: RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com [mailto:RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of danbaier Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2012 4:46 PM Subject: [RV Builders] Re: PDF plates Ralph... This one is still going - http://www.chartbundle.com/ Dan --- In RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com, "Ralph E. Capen" wrote: > > Anyone know of a suitable replacement for PDFplates? > ------------------------------------ Want more RV news? Sign up for the RV Builder's Hotline. It's free! http://rvbuildershotline.comYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7A/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7A/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: RV7A-digest(at)yahoogroups.com RV7A-fullfeatured(at)yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: RV7A-unsubscribe(at)yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Szantho" <jszantho(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cherry Max vesussolid rivets
Date: Oct 15, 2012
How do I find the equivalent length for the AN426AD3-6 and AN426AD3-7 solid rivets in the Cherrymax line. I have to substitute these with the Cherrymax CR3214-4-? Rivets. I ran into this problem while riveting on the top forward skin on my RV9A. We just could not buck a few rivets. The best I could come up with is the CR3214-4-4 and CR3214-4-5 rivets as equivalent in length. If this is incorrect what is the best lengths to use? I would appreciate any help. John ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2012
Subject: Re: Cherry Max vesussolid rivets
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Not sure. Maybe this reference will help: http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/cherry.pdf I often use the rivet gauge shown there. - LB On Monday, October 15, 2012, John Szantho wrote: > How do I find the equivalent length for the AN426AD3-6 and AN426AD3-7 > solid rivets in the Cherrymax line. I have to substitute these with the > Cherrymax CR3214-4-? Rivets.**** > > I ran into this problem while riveting on the top forward skin on my RV9A. > We just could not buck a few rivets. The best I could come up with is the > CR3214-4-4 and CR3214-4-5 rivets as equivalent in length.**** > > If this is incorrect what is the best lengths to use? I would appreciate > any help.**** > > John**** > > ** ** > > * > > * > > -- -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Avoiding a Flip Over?
From: "ianxbrown" <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Date: Oct 16, 2012
Thanks for the feedback and sympathy. I had not been a regular visitor to the forums, but I do receive the daily digest. I was unaware of the Matco "fix" but I'm a bit more confident in the AntiSplat bearing replacement, even though it's a bit more expensive. There is no adjustment of the bearing tightness and it's sealed for life. I think one factor in all of this is that anyone who flips over probably places a higher priority on safe technique. I have the good news that I was able to get the prop repaired, and the engine has no visible interior damage. The Magnaflux testing will be the definitive answer but I'm looking at a lot less cost for the engine and prop than I feared. $1,000 for the prop and $2,000 for the motor. Initial fears were $3k for prop and $5k for motor. You probably live with regrets too. Mine is "why the heck didn't I overshoot if I was going to land half way down the runway?" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385455#385455 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Avoiding a Flip Over?
Date: Oct 16, 2012
///I think one factor in all of this is that anyone who flips over probably places a higher priority on safe technique. I couldn't disagree with this statement more. I think one might say people who haven't flipped over probably place a higher priority on safe technique. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Avoiding a Flip Over?
From: "ianxbrown" <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Date: Oct 17, 2012
Bob, I think you misunderstood. I was saying AFTER an accident like this one is more likely to place a HIGHER priority on safe landing technique than one did before the accident... I'm not sure that those who never had an accident like this can be assumed to be safer just because it didn't happen. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385558#385558 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2012
Subject: Auto Pilot issues...
I get the NASA Callback emailed to me regularly, it is a periodical that details some of the more interesting reports filed by pilots, controllers and mechanics playing their "get out of jail free card." It generally makes for thought provoking reading and it's free. This month talks about auto pilots going awry and 2 of the 3 incidents detailed are in experimentals yet, experimentals are less than 20% of the total number of piston fixed wings out there... http://asrs.arc.nasa.gov/publications/callback/cb_393.html We can do better! Make sure you really know how to operate all that gadgetry that you've got before you use it in what I would call "an operational environment" and make sure it all works the way it should before you depend on it. Bill Judge N84WJ, RV-8, 820 hrs http://rv-8.blogspot.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry Stout" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Auto Pilot issues...
Date: Oct 17, 2012
The "get out of jail free" card doesn't work. I had one of those "call the tower" incidents 2 months ago, which led to a discussion with the FAA. I sent in my "get out of jail" paperwork, but the FAA said they never see that paperwork and don't even have access to it. It plays no part in their enforcement actions. The paperwork is strictly a NASA thing, for safety statistics. Don't think it will do you any good, and certainly won't get you out of jail. Garry Stout From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Judge Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 11:46 AM Subject: RV-List: Auto Pilot issues... I get the NASA Callback emailed to me regularly, it is a periodical that details some of the more interesting reports filed by pilots, controllers and mechanics playing their "get out of jail free card." It generally makes for thought provoking reading and it's free. This month talks about auto pilots going awry and 2 of the 3 incidents detailed are in experimentals yet, experimentals are less than 20% of the total number of piston fixed wings out there... http://asrs.arc.nasa.gov/publications/callback/cb_393.html We can do better! Make sure you really know how to operate all that gadgetry that you've got before you use it in what I would call "an operational environment" and make sure it all works the way it should before you depend on it. Bill Judge N84WJ, RV-8, 820 hrs <http://rv-8.blogspot.com/> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Auto Pilot issues...
From: "bigginsking" <bjudge(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2012
Sorry to hear you got a bad deal. >From this link: http://asrs.arc.nasa.gov/overview/immunity.html I got this: Enforcement Restrictions. The FAA considers the filing of a report with NASA concerning an incident or occurrence involving a violation of 49 U.S.C. subtitle VII or the 14 CFR to be indicative of a constructive attitude. Such an attitude will tend to prevent future violations. Accordingly, although a finding of violation may be made, neither a civil penalty nor certificate suspension will be imposed if: The violation was inadvertent and not deliberate; The violation did not involve a criminal offense, accident, or action under 49 U.S.C. 44709, which discloses a lack of qualification or competency, which is wholly excluded from this policy; The person has not been found in any prior FAA enforcement action to have committed a violation of 49 U.S.C. subtitle VII, or any regulation promulgated there for a period of 5 years prior to the date of occurrence; and The person proves that, within 10 days after the violation, or date when the person became aware or should have been aware of the violation, he or she completed and delivered or mailed a written report of the incident or occurrence to NASA. -------- Bill Judge N84WJ, RV-8 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385575#385575 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ralph Finch <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2012
Subject: Re: Auto Pilot issues...
Quite right. Some years ago I busted a VIP-TFR and though they didn't send F-16s after me, they did give me a 30-day suspension. I had sent in the form too, but the FAA attorney said that since I had willfully violated the regulations (by not getting "all available information before the flight", i.e. a LockMart briefing), the NASA form doesn't work. Seems to me they can pull that trick on any pilot. Ralph Finch On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 1:01 PM, Garry Stout wrote : > *The =93get out of jail free=94 card doesn=92t work*. I had one of those =93call > the tower=94 incidents 2 months ago, which led to a discussion with the F AA. > I sent in my =93get out of jail=94 paperwork, but the FAA said they never see > that paperwork and don=92t even have access to it. It plays no part in t heir > enforcement actions. The paperwork is strictly a NASA thing, for safety > statistics. Don=92t think it will do you any good, and certainly won=92t get > you out of jail. > > ** ** > > Garry Stout**** > > ** ** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ralph Finch <ralphmariafinch(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2012
Subject: Re: Auto Pilot issues...
I would venture that proportionally, way more experimental aircraft than certificated have autopilots. Ralph Finch On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 8:45 AM, Bill Judge wrote: > This month talks about auto pilots going awry and 2 of the > 3 incidents detailed are in experimentals yet, experimentals are less than > 20% of the total number of piston fixed wings out there... > > http://asrs.arc.nasa.gov/publications/callback/cb_393.html > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Oct 17, 2012
Subject: ASRS was Auto Pilot issues...
When I worked for an experienced 135 operator, his first advice in a "call the tower" situation was NEVER call the tower just because they ask you to. You have no obligation, period. I've asked an aviation attorney since then, and he agreed. My own experience with FAA's "friendly chats" is that there's no such thing as off-the-record, everything you say is evidence, and they will use it if they wish. The ASRS (NASA) form is absolutely worth the effort, and it does work. My wife and I both worked for ASRS many years ago, and I've seen it work plenty of times, even to my own personal benefit. But it takes a concerted effort and a lawyer who wants to do the work. If avoiding the suspension is worth it to you, there are several levels to work through before a violation is made, and the form is one layer of protection. Garry is right, FAA never sees it, and that's the point, in order to protect you for admitting an error. But the law does respect the form and if you take it far enough it works like a charm. > Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 1:01 PM, Garry Stout wrote : > The =9Cget out of jail free=9D card doesn=99t work. I had one of those =9Ccall > the tower=9D incidents 2 months ago, which led to a discussion with the FAA. > I sent in my =9Cget out of jail=9D paperwork, but the FAA sai d they never see > that paperwork and don=99t even have access to it. It plays no par t in their > enforcement actions. The paperwork is strictly a NASA thing, for safety > statistics. Don=99t think it will do you any good, and certainly w on=99t get > you out of jail.**** > > ** ** > > Garry Stout**** > > ** ** > > ** ** > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill Judge > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2012 11:46 AM > *To:* SoCAL-RVlist(at)yahoogroups.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV-List: Auto Pilot issues...**** > > ** ** > > I get the NASA Callback emailed to me regularly, it is a periodical that > details some of the more interesting reports filed by pilots, controllers > and mechanics playing their "get out of jail free card."**** > > ** ** > > It generally makes for thought provoking reading and it's free.**** > > ** ** > > This month talks about auto pilots going awry and 2 of the > 3 incidents detailed are in experimentals yet, experimentals are less tha n > 20% of the total number of piston fixed wings out there...**** > > ** ** > > http://asrs.arc.nasa.gov/publications/callback/cb_393.html**** > > ** ** > > We can do better!**** > > ** ** > > Make sure you really know how to operate all that gadgetry that you've go t > before you use it in what I would call "an operational environment" **** > > ** ** > > and **** > > ** ** > > make sure it all works the way it should before you depend on it.**** > > ** ** > > Bill Judge > N84WJ, RV-8, 820 hrs**** > > http://rv-8.blogspot.com/**** > > * * > > * * > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List* > > ** > > ** > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ** > > ** > > ** > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > ** > > * * > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2012
From: Paul Millner <paulmillner(at)compuserve.com>
Subject: overshoot vs go around
>> "why the heck didn't I overshoot if I was going to land half way down the runway?" Probably useful to note that in American English, overshoot means to run off the end of the runway. In Canadian English, apparently, overshoot is the same as what American pilots call "going around"... Not sure how "overshoot" came to mean go around, as the words themselves, over and shoot, don't seem to be related to a balked landing by construction. :-) Paul, Cincinnati remote ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2012
Subject: Re: overshoot vs go around
From: Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com>
Paul Interesting thing languages - the Canadian "overshoot" meaning "go around" in American English probably originated with the Brits - "circuits and bumps" in Britspeak, and maybe Canadian English as well, is "touch and go" in American English. If I'm wrong someone out there is going to correct me I'm sure. Winston Churchill once famously said: "The English and the Americans are one people, separated by a common language." In a distantly related matter of interest - my French-Canadian grandmother used to say the purest form of the French language spoken on this planet is not spoken in France but in the small towns and villages of eastern Quebec - I must add however that memere left Quebec as a 15-year-old in 1893 - so take that with a grain of salt. Dan Bergeron RV-7A - N307TB 362 hours since first flight on 4th Aug 2009 (and that's the English way of saying "Aug 4, 2009") On Sun, Oct 21, 2012 at 6:15 AM, Paul Millner wrote: > > >> "why the heck didn't I overshoot if I was going to land half way down > the runway?" > > Probably useful to note that in American English, overshoot means to run > off the end of the runway. In Canadian English, apparently, overshoot is > the same as what American pilots call "going around"... > > Not sure how "overshoot" came to mean go around, as the words themselves, > over and shoot, don't seem to be related to a balked landing by > construction. :-) > > Paul, Cincinnati remote > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 21, 2012
From: Richard Wagoner <strgzr(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-6A QB Kit - prop & engine for sale
After a number of years of =9CI=99ll get to it soon=9D I have=0Adecided to put my RV-6A Kit, engine and propeller up for sale.=0A=C2 -=0AI acquired the RV in early 2000 while I was in flight=0Atraining for my private ticket. Shortly after (a few months) the kit=99s arrival =0AI had an unfortunate accident and as a result my left shoulder required =0Asurgery. Recovery was slow and painful. My flight training was halted an d my=0Awork on the RV also stopped. A few years later, when I had recovered most of my=0Amobility, I started flying and got the private ticket but my desire to build=0Athe airplane was gone. I kept it thinking I will eventual ly start up again, but=0AI never did.=0A=C2-=0ASo it=99s time for s omeone else to try their hand.=C2- Here is what I have for sale:=0A=C2- =0ARV-6A QUICKBUILD kit with the sliding canopy, electric flaps, electric t rim, engine mount and has=0Athe FULL Finishing Kit=0A=C2-=0ANOTE: Even th ough this is a Quick Build kit it came with a=0Astandard empennage kit.=0A( All the QB kits were on a boat coming from the Philippines,=0Abut they had the standard Tail kit in stock). So the work that I put into this kit was =0Ato build the Horizontal Stabilizer, Vertical Stabilizer, Rudder and both =0AElevators. None of the =98QB=99 parts have any work done to them. =0A=C2-=0ALycoming EA=0AAEIO-360-B1F (Fuel Injected 180 HP) engine packaged for long term=0Astorage. I also got the LASAR/SLICK Electronic Ign ition system. This engine has=0ANEVER been out of its shipping crate.=0A=C2 -=0A=C2-Hartzel Constant Speed Propeller model # C2YK-1BF/F766A4.=0AThe Prop is still in its original shipping box.=0A=C2-=0APictures of the air plane and prop are at: =0A=C2-=0Ahttps://picasaweb.google.com/10363559021 1074260885/Aircraft?authuser=0&feat=directlink=0A=C2-=0AIf you have a ny questions or wish to make a serious offer on=0Aany or all of my items(No te =93 I will NOT =98part out=99 the airplane) please con tact=0Ame.=0A=C2-=0AI can be reached by email at:=C2- strgzr@sbcglobal. net or by phone at 510-209-8515=0A=C2-=0AThanks!=0A=C2-=0ARick Wagoner ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 22, 2012
From: Richard Wagoner <strgzr(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Reformatted RV for sale posting
I apologize for the duplicate posting, but after I saw how absolutely wretc hed my first=0A=0Aposting looked, I just had to reformat and re-post it.=0A =0A------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------=0A=0AAfter a number of years of =9CI=99ll get to i t soon=9D I have decided to put my RV-6A Kit, engine and propeller up for sale.=0A=0AI acquired the RV in early 2000 while I was in flight train ing for my private ticket. =0A=0AShortly after (a few months) the kit =99s arrival I had an unfortunate accident and as a result =0A=0Amy left sh oulder required surgery. Recovery was slow and painful.=C2-=0A=0AMy fligh t training was halted and my work on the RV also stopped. A few years later , when I had=0Arecovered most of my mobility, I started flying and got the private ticket but my desire to build =0A=0Athe airplane was gone. I kept i t thinking I will eventually start up again, but I never did.=0A=0ASo it =99s time for someone else to try their hand.=C2- Here is what I have for sale:=0A=0ARV-6A QUICKBUILD kit with the sliding canopy, electric flaps , electric trim, engine mount =0A=0Aand has the FULL Finishing Kit=0A=0A=0A NOTE: Even though this is a Quick Build kit it came with a standard empenna ge kit.=0A(All the QB kits were on a boat coming from the Philippines, but they had the standard=0ATail kit in stock). So the work that I put into thi s kit was to build the Horizontal Stabilizer,=0AVertical Stabilizer, Rudder and both Elevators. None of the =98QB=99 parts have any work d one to them.=C2-=0A=0A=0ALycoming EA AEIO-360-B1F (Fuel Injected 180 HP) engine packaged for long term storage. I also =0A=0Agot the LASAR/SLICK Ele ctronic Ignition system. This engine has NEVER been out of its shipping cra te.=0A=0A=0AHartzel Constant Speed Propeller model # C2YK-1BF/F766A4. The P rop is still in its original =0A=0Ashipping box.=0A=0A=0APictures of the ai rplane and prop are at: =0A=0Ahttps://picasaweb.google.com/1036355902110742 60885/Aircraft?authuser=0&feat=directlink=0A=0AIf you have any question s or wish to make a serious offer on any or all of my items=0A=0A(Note =93 I will NOT =98part out=99 the airplane) please contact m e.=0A=0AI can be reached by email at:=C2- strgzr(at)sbcglobal.net or by phon e at 510-209-8515=0A=0AThanks!=0A=0ARick Wagoner=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________ _______________________=0A From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list(at)matronics.c om>=0ATo: RV-List Digest List =0ASent: Sunda y, October 21, 2012 12:01 AM=0ASubject: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/20/12 =0A =0A*=0A=0A==================== ======0A=C2- Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive=0A =0A=0AToday's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the =0Atwo Web Links listed below.=C2- The .html file includes the Digest for matted =0Ain HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked I ndexes =0Aand Message Navigation.=C2- The .txt file includes the plain AS CII version =0Aof the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor =0Asuch as Notepad or with a web browser. =0A=0AHTML Version:=0A=0A =C2- =C2- http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701& View=html&Chapter 12-10-20&Archive=RV=0A=0AText Version:=0A=0A=C2 - =C2- http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&Vie w=txt&Chapter 12-10-20&Archive=RV=0A=0A=0A======== ================0A=C2- EMail Version of To day's List Digest Archive=0A=============== =========0A=0A=0A=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- ------ ----------------------------------------------------=0A=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- RV- List Digest Archive=0A=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2 - =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- ---=0A=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- Total Messages Posted Sat 10/20/12: 0=0A=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2 - =C2- ----------------------------------------------------------=0A =0A=0AToday's Message Index:=0A----------------------=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - ==C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 23, 2012
From: Richard Wagoner <strgzr(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: For sale prop corrected model number
Forum-folk - I seem to have dropped a number from the model number of the Prop I have for sale. It should read C2YK-1BF/F7666A-4 Sorry for the confusion Rick ________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: Copperstate Trip Report
Date: Oct 29, 2012
Hi all, I flew over to Phoenix this past Friday for the Copperstate fly-in. Came home Friday evening so a quick trip but still awesome. My full report and a bunch of photos are posted on my blog at: <http://jdfinley.com/2012/10/29/copperstate-2012/> http://jdfinley.com/2012/10/29/copperstate-2012/ Something around four hours sipping 7 gph at 150 kts over some spectacular scenery! Quite a few RV's there but I was the only -3. Story of my life I guess - kinda "unique". J Jon http://jdfinley.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November!
Dear Listers, Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the Email List and Fourm Services at Matronics. It's through solely through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site http://forums.matronics.com , Wiki site http://wiki.matronics.com , or other related pages such as the List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search , List Browse http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse , etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements. During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages. The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all of the bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution counts! Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates. This year, these generous people include: Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP http://www.homebuilthelp.com These are very generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support of the Lists again this year!! Please make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying Contribution amount!! To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral support over the years! Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 01, 2012
From: William Dean <billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Auto Response
My father, William Dean (Bill) has passed away. We are monitoring this email and will reply to you if appropriate. If you were a friend of his or family that keeps up with him on email, and we have not reached out to you and given you the news, please forgive us. It was sudden and we are dealing with a lot at this time. The Dean Family ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists
Dear Listers, There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums. The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November Fund Raiser. Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Air box mod to fix filter deformation
Date: Nov 03, 2012
All, This is a mod to the air box I did on the RV-10, and just now back fitted onto the RV-8A. Over the years with the RV-8A I've had to repair the air box and replace the filter. As you can see from the first photo, the bottom of the filter deforms (curves in). This tends to shorten the filter such that it drops out of the top and impairs the seal with the top plate. I also had to add fiberglass to the bottom of the air box as the relative motion between the bottom of the air filter the air box eroded away the fiberglass bottom. The fix was to add a .032" aluminum plate to the bottom of the air box. The plate eliminates the bottom erosion and the added brackets hold the filter shape. A side benefit is that alternate air door now sandwiches the bottom fiberglass between two piece of metal making a sturdier install. I also took the step to add proseal between the aluminum plate and the air box bottom. Carl ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Air box mod to fix filter deformation
Date: Nov 04, 2012
An excellent post. I would like to add a few comments. =46rom the pictures, it appears to be the same as for my carburetor Lyc 180 HP, in my RV-6A. I would highly recommend that all who have the O-360 air box do this modification, and also replace the filter when it no longer fills up the air box space, just as you did. My experience with the K&N filter and air box on my 180 HP O-360A1A was very similar. While mine did not curve, it definitely shrank, which presented the same problem. the vertical shrinkage caused a "failure to seal" at the top. The diameter also shrank. The combination of the two caused the filter element to have a lot of rattle space within the air box enclosure. As the years went by, i noticed the bottom of the fiberglass box was showing a lot of wear, and the filter element was apparently shrinking! It seemed to rattle around in the box a little more, each time I opened it up for its 100 hr cleaning and re oiling. My first action was to install a bottom plate, which looks just like yours, although i used a heavier thickness. It helped seal the top and bottom but did not help the "shrinking radius" problem. Nonetheless I did notice a reduction in the silica amount on my next oil analysis. Later on, I noted the shrinkage problem as such and replaced the filter with a new one. At this point I was able to hold the new filter next to the new one and verified it had indeed shrunk in all dimensions! Strange but true. I wish I could give you a time estimate on how long between filter changes but I can't. This type thing I just replace on condition. I believe I am on my third filter at 2,830 hours. So I would guess they lasted around a thousand hours each. I will note that they were in great condition otherwise. Those things will last forever, if you clean them gently. It may well be unrelated that my air box is sealed like yours, and the fact that my engine is still purring at 2,830 tack hours, but on the other hand it may have helped? D Walsh, RV 6A, flying for 15.5 years. On 3Nov, 2012, at 4:18 , Carl Froehlich wrote: > All, > > This is a mod to the air box I did on the RV-10, and just now back fitted onto the RV-8A. > > Over the years with the RV-8A I=92ve had to repair the air box and replace the filter. As you can see from the first photo, the bottom of the filter deforms (curves in). This tends to shorten the filter such that it drops out of the top and impairs the seal with the top plate. I also had to add fiberglass to the bottom of the air box as the relative motion between the bottom of the air filter the air box eroded away the fiberglass bottom. > > The fix was to add a .032=94 aluminum plate to the bottom of the air box. The plate eliminates the bottom erosion and the added brackets hold the filter shape. A side benefit is that alternate air door now sandwiches the bottom fiberglass between two piece of metal making a sturdier install. I also took the step to add proseal between the aluminum plate and the air box bottom. > > Carl > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 04, 2012
From: William Dean <billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air box mod to fix filter deformation
Please remove billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com from your email list.=C2- He passed away on October 29, 2012.=C2- =0A=C2-=0AThank you. =0A=C2-=0AThe Dean Family=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Denis Walsh <de nis.walsh(at)comcast.net>=0ATo: rv-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Sunday, Novembe r 4, 2012 8:26 AM=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Air box mod to fix filter deforma tion=0A=0A=0AAn excellent post. =C2-I would like to add a few comments. =C2-From the pictures, it appears to be the same as for my carburetor Lyc =C2-180 HP, in my RV-6A. =C2-I would highly recommend that all who hav e the O-360 =C2-air box do this modification, and also replace the filter when it no longer fills up the air box space, just as you did. =0A=0AMy ex perience with the K&N filter and air box on my 180 HP O-360A1A was very sim ilar. While mine did not curve, it definitely shrank, which presented the s ame problem. =C2-the vertical shrinkage caused a "failure to seal" at the top. =C2-The diameter also shrank. =C2-The =C2-combination of the tw o caused the filter element to have a lot of rattle space within the air bo x enclosure.=0A=0A=0AAs the years went by, i noticed the bottom of the fibe rglass box was showing a lot of wear, and the filter element was apparently shrinking! =C2-It seemed to rattle around in the box a little more, each time I opened it up for its 100 hr cleaning and re oiling.=0A=0AMy first a ction was to install=C2-=C2-a bottom plate, =C2-which looks just like yours, although i used a heavier thickness. =C2-It helped seal the =C2 -top and bottom but did not help the "shrinking radius" problem. =C2-No netheless I did notice a reduction in the silica amount on my next oil anal ysis. =0A=0ALater on, I noted the shrinkage problem as such and replaced th e filter with a new one.=0A=0AAt this point I was able to hold the new filt er next to the new one and verified it had indeed shrunk in all dimensions! =C2-Strange but true.=0A=0AI wish I could give you a time estimate on ho w long between filter changes but I can't. =C2-This type thing I just rep lace on condition. =C2-I believe I am on my third filter at 2,830 hours. =C2-So I would guess they lasted around a thousand hours each. =C2-I wi ll note that they were in great condition otherwise. =C2-Those things wil l last forever, if you clean them gently. =C2-=0A=0AIt may well be unrela ted that my air box is sealed like yours, and the fact that my engine is st ill purring at 2,830 tack hours, but on the other hand it may have helped? =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AD Walsh, RV 6A, =C2-flying for 15.5 years.=0A=0A=0A=0A =0AOn 3Nov, 2012, at 4:18 , Carl Froehlich wro te:=0A=0AAll,=0A>=C2-=0A>This is a mod to the air box I did on the RV-10, and just now back fitted onto the RV-8A.=0A>=C2-=0A>Over the years with the RV-8A I=99ve had to repair the air box and replace the filter.=C2 - As you can see from the first photo, the bottom of the filter deforms ( curves in).=C2- This tends to shorten the filter such that it drops out o f the top and impairs the seal with the top plate.=C2- I also had to add fiberglass to the bottom of the air box as the relative motion between the bottom of the air filter the air box eroded away the fiberglass bottom.=0A> =C2-=0A>The fix was to add a .032=9D aluminum plate to the bottom o f the air box. =C2-The plate eliminates the bottom erosion and the added brackets hold the filter shape.=C2- A side benefit is that alternate air door now sandwiches the bottom fiberglass between two piece of metal making a sturdier install.=C2- I also took the step to add proseal between the aluminum plate and the air box bottom.=0A>=C2-=0A>Carl ive Search ==== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution
Today! Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors (LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine subscription! Make sure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Air Box Mod Due to Filter Deformation
Date: Nov 05, 2012
Can anyone explain why the filter would deform over time? Are you saying that it also shrinks across its radius? Is it just this combination or is this likely on my O320/RV-9A too? If it's caused by compressing the filter to hold it tight, wouldn't it be better to use something like a foam gasket to stop compressing it? Ian Brown ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Air Box Mod Due to Filter Deformation
Date: Nov 05, 2012
IMHO=2C the rubber shrinks and the rubber on the filter gets hard because i t comes in contact with fuel and oil. The gas and oil makes the rubber shri nk and get hard. Yes at one point the rubber will get soft from the fuel t hen turn hard over time. I am on my 3rd filter in 15-years and have a spar e one sitting on the shelf. Yes the 320 has similar issues. The placing of aluminum plate between the filter and fiberglass was done on a friends IO-360 powered RV-4 over 10-years ago. I know of several RVs th at have done that over the years. Actually=2C I cannot think of any flying RVs with 360 up draft sump not using the aluminum. I though that was a st andard mod that everyone was doing. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C650+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA > From: ixb(at)videotron.ca > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Air Box Mod Due to Filter Deformation > Date: Mon=2C 5 Nov 2012 09:04:22 -0500 > > > Can anyone explain why the filter would deform over time? Are you saying > that it also shrinks across its radius? Is it just this combination or i s > this likely on my O320/RV-9A too? If it's caused by compressing the filt er > to hold it tight=2C wouldn't it be better to use something like a foam ga sket > to stop compressing it? > > Ian Brown ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
From: "fastpilotrv8" <fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2012
I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The mains are really shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
From: Jeff Orear <jorear(at)new.rr.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2012
How often are you needing to replace the tires? What type/ manufacturer of tires are you using now? I had a similar, but not as severe shimmy in one main gear leg on my 6A. Replacing the worn original kit tires with a set of Monster retreads from Desser Tires solved the problem completely. I was amazed at the difference. Jeff Orear RV6A. N783P Peshtigo, WI Sent from my iPad On Nov 5, 2012, at 5:07 PM, "fastpilotrv8" wrote: > > I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The mains are really shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc > > my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 05, 2012
From: BOB L WATSON <bob194bn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
What is the tire wear like on mains ?=0AJust a thought looks like might hav e toe out .tire pulls and then snaps back .=0AWas it at all possible that m ains might not of been indexed for positive track when plane was built/left right.=0A-=0ABob Watson=0AN194BN- 9-A=0A=0A =0A=0A____________________ ____________=0A From: fastpilotrv8 <fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv-list@mat ronics.com =0ASent: Monday, November 5, 2012 3:07 PM=0ASubject: RV-List: La v8" =0A=0AI on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights .- I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots .- The mains are really shaking a lot.- anyone wi th Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas =0A=0Ahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc=0A=0Amy email is- - fastpilotrv8@aol.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp:/ /forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A ==== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
Date: Nov 06, 2012
Ok, I hate to take you way off the reservation here but Vans miss-shipped some RV-8A kits with RV-9A gear legs. Ask me how I know? I purchased a partially built kit from about your era (Builder # 80721) and it shipped with the 9A legs. We knew something was not right when we tried to align the wheels. This was most obvious when pushing backwards. The only reason I of know this is the same thing happened to at least 2 other 8A builders that contacted me through the list. We cleaned up the legs and returned them to Vans for a free replacement ~8+ years later. (Thank you Vans!). At least one flew several hours before discovering the issue. Mine would not push backwards more than a few feet w/o skipping so I have no idea one can push in/out the plane in this configuration. Now this is pretty unlikely to be your issue and I am sure that others will chime in on the shimmy problem. Just wanted to let you know of the gear leg issue just in case. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fastpilotrv8 Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 3:07 PM Subject: RV-List: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The mains are really shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
From: Craig Gallenbach <craigtxtx(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 05, 2012
I had a significant decrease in vibration after balancing the wheels. Craig Gallenbach RV8A N184CG 260 hrs Sent from my iPad On Nov 5, 2012, at 6:07 PM, "fastpilotrv8" wrote: > > I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The mains are really shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc > > my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: A Message From AeroElectric's Bob Nuckolls...
Dear Listers, The well known Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric posted a great message Monday on the AeroElectric-List regarding the Matronics Lists and the importance of supporting the operation during the Fund Raiser. Please take a minute to read Bob's commentary below, reposted to the other Matronics Lists with his permission... Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2012 08:58:41 -0600 From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com> Subject: AeroElectric-List: Re: Please Make A Contribution Today! At 02:14 AM 11/5/2012, Matt Dralle wrote: > > Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message > acknowledging everyone that so generously made a Contribution to > support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that > took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. > I will add my voice to this suggestion. It's easy to enjoy the benefits of what's available to us off-the-shelves at the corner mega-marts. It's seldom that we give pause to learn and understand the processes and tools that made it possible to reach out and select from dozens of options. This, and all civil societies, runs on talent, energy and mobility. Mobility exploited by thousands of hands, machines and transportation that figure into the 'infrastructure' that puts the boxes of Wheaties and Pop Tarts on the shelves. See "I pencil" http://tinyurl.com/36xkhq Any break in that chain of time, talent and resources at least interrupts if not totally halts flow of that benefit. Matt's room full of byte-thrashers is like the natural gas pumping station a few miles from my house. If those pumps stop, who ever is expecting the furnace to come on at the other end of the pipe is at risk for reduced service and/or higher costs for that service. Matt's yearly endeavor to keep his pumps running is a trivial burden on the members of the Lists but of incalculable value to those who participate on them. No donation is too small. We go to a fly-in a willingly chuck a few bucks into the coffee can at the drinks and donuts table, let's chuck a few bucks into Matt's coffee can too. 50,000 pounds of value doesn't get to the shelves on time if one 18-wheeler runs out of gas. The T-bytes of data flow we all enjoy don't get from your keyboard to the screens of others unless Matt pays the light bill and strokes the machines to keep them happy. No, $5 won't get you a free copy of the 'Connection or a fuel sampler but it will go toward the assurance that logging onto your favorite List will open doors that you would be sorely missed should you find that hitting the return key doesn't produce the expected response. $5 from every List customer on Matt's system will go a very long way to keeping the byte-pumps running. $More$ will go a long way to upgrading the size and quality of the machines as the old ones get long in the tooth. No matter what size of donation you choose . . . please do it now . . . Bob . . . Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution too! You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
Date: Nov 06, 2012
I had similar shimmy problems on my 6A. I tried balancing the tires with little or no help. Van's answer was to reduce the tire pressure. As I remember, Van's recommendation was about 20 psi. My shimmy stopped at 25 psi and I have used that ever since. I have found that lower to higher ambient temperature will change the tire pressure enough that the shimmy will sometimes return. Likewise, my 25 psi flatland tire pressure didn't work in Denver, and lowering the tire pressure to less than 20 psi solved that. Another possible cause is the axle nut(s) being too tight. Make sure all the tires will spin freely with the airplane jacked up. I had that problem with the nose gear which caused the nose gear to bounce vertically on landing. Basically, the axle was too tight due to the design, and the tire wouldn't freely rotate more than 1/2 turn. I went to a Grove wheel and axle and that solved that problem. Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB San Antonio ----------------------------------------------------------- > Subject: RV-List: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a > From: "fastpilotrv8" <fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com> > > > I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much > worse in the > last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The > mains are really > shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube > and > please give me your Ideas > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc > > my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
Hi ??, The nose wheel looks to have low tire pressure but does not shake. Could it be the mains have too much pressure? I run about 38 to start with in my RV7A (200 HP) mains. By the time I add air they're usually down to about 32. I've been told they shake a lot though. What changed in the last 6 flights? Do the wheels turn free, or are the bearings too loose? Maybe clean up the bearings and look for signs of corrosion, etc. Could it be that it has always done this and you just became aware of it? Look at the brakes,too. Could they be getting into the act somehow? Back to the nose wheel. I have the AntiSplat gear leg brace, and now run 50 PSI in the nose tire. Only have a few hours since putting it on. So far, so good! Just some ideas. Dan Hopper N766DH In a message dated 11/5/2012 6:08:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "fastpilotrv8" I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The mains are really shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2012
From: Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
Robin, -Is there a way to visually determine if you have the 9A legs? How do the y differ from the 8A units? Charlie --- On Mon, 11/5/12, Robin Marks wrote: From: Robin Marks <robin(at)painttheweb.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a Date: Monday, November 5, 2012, 7:00 PM Ok, I hate to take you way off the reservation here but Vans miss-shipped s ome RV-8A kits with RV-9A gear legs. Ask me how I know? I purchased a parti ally built kit from about your era (Builder # 80721) and it shipped with th e 9A legs. We knew something was not right when we tried to align the wheel s. This was most obvious when pushing backwards. The only reason I of know this is the same thing happened to at least 2 other 8A builders that contac ted me through the list. We cleaned up the legs and returned them to Vans f or a free replacement ~8+ years later. (Thank you Vans!). At least one flew several hours before discovering the issue. Mine would not push backwards more than a few feet w/o skipping so I have no idea one can push in/out the plane in this configuration. Now this is pretty unlikely to be your issue and I am sure that others will chime in on the shimmy problem. Just wanted to let you know of the gear leg issue just in case. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of fastpilotrv8 Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 3:07 PM Subject: RV-List: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights .- I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots .- The m ains are really shaking a lot.- anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc my email is- - fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 le, List Admin. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
Date: Nov 06, 2012
I don't know if you can tell visually but they will be a touch "toe in" and when rolling the plane in reverse they will splay a bit and then skip. It seemed to roll forward more normally then it would when pushed in reverse. The alignment was not immediately obvious (just a few degrees) but the reve rse push test made the misalignment obvious. Good luck, Robin From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Kuss Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2012 6:59 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a Robin, Is there a way to visually determine if you have the 9A legs? How do they differ from the 8A units? Charlie --- On Mon, 11/5/12, Robin Marks > wrote: From: Robin Marks <robin(at)painttheweb.com<mailto:robin(at)painttheweb.com>> Subject: RE: RV-List: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a s.com> Date: Monday, November 5, 2012, 7:00 PM se?to=robin(at)painttheweb.com>> Ok, I hate to take you way off the reservation here but Vans miss-shipped s ome RV-8A kits with RV-9A gear legs. Ask me how I know? I purchased a parti ally built kit from about your era (Builder # 80721) and it shipped with th e 9A legs. We knew something was not right when we tried to align the wheel s. This was most obvious when pushing backwards. The only reason I of know this is the same thing happened to at least 2 other 8A builders that contac ted me through the list. We cleaned up the legs and returned them to Vans f or a free replacement ~8+ years later. (Thank you Vans!). At least one flew several hours before discovering the issue. Mine would not push backwards more than a few feet w/o skipping so I have no idea one can push in/out the plane in this configuration. Now this is pretty unlikely to be your issue and I am sure that others will chime in on the shimmy problem. Just wanted to let you know of the gear leg issue just in case. Robin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com</mc/compose?to=owner-rv-list-ser ver(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of fastpilotrv8 Sent: Monday, November 05, 2012 3:07 PM Subject: RV-List: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a pose?to=fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com>> I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The mains are really shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.comhttp://www.builders books.com%3cbr> --> http://www.m============ <http://www.matronics.com/contribution> rsbooks.com> m> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2012
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I had a similar problem on my RV-6A. Lower tire pressure helped. What solved the problem was replacing the original equipment tires (which wore out in a year anyway) with Michelin Condors. I normally keep 30 - 32ps in the tires. -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2012
From: Doug Weiler <dcw(at)mnwing.org>
Subject: Re: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8a
I'd try two things. Bring the tire pressure down to about 30 psi. If that doesn't work I'd change the brand of tires. I had similar issues with my first RV-4 and this process worked. Doug Weiler RV-4 finished and flying RV-7 finished and flying On 11/5/2012 5:07 PM, fastpilotrv8 wrote: > > I on my 2002 RV8a has had the landing gear shimmy has gotten much worse in the last 6 flights . I am running 45 lbs air , no flats spots . The mains are really shaking a lot. anyone with Ideas please watch the video on You Tube and please give me your Ideas > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HrcTKt3zBc > > my email is fastpilotrv8(at)aol.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386965#386965 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca>
Subject: Landing Gear Shimmy on RV8A
Date: Nov 07, 2012
Looking at your video, that very slight hesitation at the beginning, I'd say your bearings are too tight. Compare with the nose wheel video at http://www.eaa538.org/images/nosegear.wmv Ian Brown ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button...
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages. Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-) I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have it on my Email List sites. If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!! http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator [Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages, when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum. The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.] ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Please Support The Lists...
Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser month. There are some very nice incentive gifts to choose from as well! Please make your Contribution today at: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 12, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: What's Your Contribution Used For?
Dear Listers, You might have wondered at some pointd, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List. It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine, List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for the over 22 years of on-line archive data always available for instant search and access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power these List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums, and Wiki. But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses. It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of the best investments you can make in your Sport! List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or, you can send a personal check to the following address: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Silver Clecos-Selling Cheap
From: "MHerder" <michaelherder(at)beckgroup.com>
Date: Nov 13, 2012
Done with project, probably wont use that many again. Need AVGAS. (200) Silver for #40 hole (spring loaded) $50 + Shipping in US Will ship within 24 hrs. mdherder(at)gmail.com -------- Zodiac 601 HD Jabiru 3300 Wood Sensinich 64x47 Finally Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=387777#387777 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2012
Subject: Re: Silver Clecos-Selling Cheap
From: John D <jdaniel343(at)bresnan.net>
SWxsIHRha2UgdGhlbQoKClNlbnQgZnJvbSBTYW1zdW5nIE1vYmlsZQoKTUhlcmRlciA8bWljaGFl bGhlcmRlckBiZWNrZ3JvdXAuY29tPiB3cm90ZToKCi0tPiBSVi1MaXN0IG1lc3NhZ2UgcG9zdGVk IGJ5OiAiTUhlcmRlciIgPG1pY2hhZWxoZXJkZXJAYmVja2dyb3VwLmNvbT4KCkRvbmUgd2l0aCBw cm9qZWN0LCBwcm9iYWJseSB3b250IHVzZSB0aGF0IG1hbnkgYWdhaW4uwqAgTmVlZCBBVkdBUy4K CigyMDApIFNpbHZlciBmb3IgIzQwIGhvbGUgKHNwcmluZyBsb2FkZWQpICQ1MCArIFNoaXBwaW5n IGluIFVTCgpXaWxsIHNoaXAgd2l0aGluIDI0IGhycy4KCm1kaGVyZGVyKGF0KWdtYWlsLmNvbQoK LS0tLS0tLS0KWm9kaWFjIDYwMSBIRApKYWJpcnUgMzMwMApXb29kIFNlbnNpbmljaCA2NHg0NwpG aW5hbGx5IEZseWluZwoKCgoKUmVhZCB0aGlzIHRvcGljIG9ubGluZSBoZXJlOgoKaHR0cDovL2Zv cnVtcy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL3ZpZXd0b3BpYy5waHA/cD0zODc3NzcjMzg3Nzc3CgoKCgoKCgpf LT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PQpfLT0KXy09wqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgIC0tIFBsZWFzZSBTdXBwb3J0IFlvdXIgTGlzdHMgVGhp cyBNb250aCAtLQpfLT3CoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoCAoQW5kIEdldCBTb21lIEFXRVNPTUUg RlJFRSBHaWZ0cyEpCl8tPQpfLT3CoMKgIE5vdmVtYmVyIGlzIHRoZSBBbm51YWwgTGlzdCBGdW5k IFJhaXNlci7CoCBDbGljayBvbgpfLT3CoMKgIHRoZSBDb250cmlidXRpb24gbGluayBiZWxvdyB0 byBmaW5kIG91dCBtb3JlIGFib3V0Cl8tPcKgwqAgdGhpcyB5ZWFyJ3MgVGVycmlmaWMgRnJlZSBJ bmNlbnRpdmUgR2lmdHMgcHJvdmlkZWQKXy09wqDCoCBieToKXy09wqDCoCAKXy09wqDCoMKgwqAg KiBBZXJvRWxlY3RyaWMgd3d3LmFlcm9lbGVjdHJpYy5jb20KXy09wqDCoMKgwqAgKiBUaGUgQnVp bGRlcidzIEJvb2tzdG9yZSB3d3cuYnVpbGRlcnNib29rcy5jb20KXy09wqDCoMKgwqAgKiBIb21l YnVpbHRIRUxQIHd3dy5ob21lYnVpbHRoZWxwLmNvbQpfLT0KXy09wqDCoCBMaXN0IENvbnRyaWJ1 dGlvbiBXZWIgU2l0ZToKXy09Cl8tPcKgwqAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9j b250cmlidXRpb24KXy09Cl8tPcKgwqAgVGhhbmsgeW91IGZvciB5b3VyIGdlbmVyb3VzIHN1cHBv cnQhCl8tPQpfLT3CoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKg wqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgIC1NYXR0IERyYWxsZSwgTGlzdCBBZG1pbi4KXy09Cl8tPT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPcKgwqDC oMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoCAtIFRoZSBSVi1MaXN0IEVtYWlsIEZvcnVtIC0KXy09IFVzZSB0aGUgTWF0 cm9uaWNzIExpc3QgRmVhdHVyZXMgTmF2aWdhdG9yIHRvIGJyb3dzZQpfLT0gdGhlIG1hbnkgTGlz dCB1dGlsaXRpZXMgc3VjaCBhcyBMaXN0IFVuL1N1YnNjcmlwdGlvbiwKXy09IEFyY2hpdmUgU2Vh cmNoICYgRG93bmxvYWQsIDctRGF5IEJyb3dzZSwgQ2hhdCwgRkFRLApfLT0gUGhvdG9zaGFyZSwg YW5kIG11Y2ggbXVjaCBtb3JlOgpfLT0KXy09wqDCoCAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3Mu Y29tL05hdmlnYXRvcj9SVi1MaXN0Cl8tPQpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQpfLT3CoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKgwqDCoMKg wqDCoMKgIC0gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdFQiBGT1JVTVMgLQpfLT0gU2FtZSBncmVhdCBjb250ZW50IGFs c28gYXZhaWxhYmxlIHZpYSB0aGUgV2ViIEZvcnVtcyEKXy09Cl8tPcKgwqAgLS0+IGh0dHA6Ly9m b3J1bXMubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQpfLT0KXy09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09 PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0KCgoK ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in December!
Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Who is Matt Dralle & What Are The Lists?
Dear Listers, Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists anyway? I've been working in the Information Technology industry for over 28 years, primarily in computer networking design and implementation and more recently as an embedded software engineer. I have also done a fair amount of work in web design and development. I started the Matronics Email Lists way back in 1990 shortly after I started building my RV-4 with about 30 fellow RV builders from around the world. Since that time, I have added many other types of aircraft related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few. For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter, a local T1 Internet router, and a bonded dual T1 commercial-grade business Internet connection with full static addressing. The computer servers include a dual quad-core Linux server for List web services with 24GB of memory, a quad -core Linux system dedicated to the email processing List functions, and another standalone Linux system serving as a remote storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard drive-based backup system with multi-terra byts of online storage. This entire system is protected by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power supply systems (UPS) that assure the Lists are available even during a local power outage! Speaking of power, imagine how much electricity it takes to run all of these systems. On the average, the elctric bill is in the neighborhood of $7000-$8000/yr and the newly upgraded dual-T1 Internet connection runs roughly $6000/yr. A while back, I upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer Center for the Matronics Email Lists and followed that upgrade up with a second rack upgrade to house the MONSTER web system that didn't quite fit into the first rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center prior to the addition of the second rack: http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister. But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've mentioned many times before, I don't use commercial advertisments to support any of these systems. It is supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you... and YOU! To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make a Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running! Please make a Contribution today to support these Lists! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: N616TB <N616TB(at)btsapps.com>
Date: Nov 17, 2012
Subject: Looking for someone to work on my RV-6
I have a flying RV-6 with over 150 hours. I had an incident landing in grass where a wheel pant came apart and rotated into the fuel tank. We were able to patch the tank however, I would like to have a new tank built. I have all the new parts for a completely new tank. I am looking for someone in Texas who could do this work as I am in process of moving my shop. I can bring the airplane to your location. Please contact me off list. N616tb at btsapps dot com Best Regards; Timothy Bryan We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, therefore, is not an act but a habit. Aristotle ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Looking for someone to work on my RV-6
From: William Dean <billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 18, 2012
We have gone to Yahoo groups and removed all the groups, how do we get off this group. My father passed away and we no longer need these emails. Thank you for any assistance you can provide. The Dean family Sent from my iPad On Nov 17, 2012, at 5:16 PM, N616TB wrote: > > I have a flying RV-6 with over 150 hours. I had an incident landing in grass where a wheel pant came apart and rotated into the fuel tank. We were able to patch the tank however, I would like to have a new tank built. I have all the new parts for a completely new tank. I am looking for someone in Texas who could do this work as I am in process of moving my shop. I can bring the airplane to your location. > Please contact me off list. N616tb at btsapps dot com > > Best Regards; > > Timothy Bryan > We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, therefore, is not an act but a habit. > Aristotle > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Prop cable throw vs governor throw
Date: Nov 18, 2012
Folks, I'm in the final reassembly stages after a derecho/tornado blew the hangar door in to my prop..prop is rebuilt and engine tore down for inspection. I have found while verifying my cabling that the prop governor has 1/8" more throw than my cable. I have it set up so the fine stop matches up but it won't go all the way coarse. I'm kinda thinking it doesn't matter as I don't think I have ever had the prop that far coarse. I can get a custom made cable with the correct throw - but do I need to? RV6A IO360B1F6 LASAR/Injected MTV12(B) 183-59 hydraulic CS I'll be sending this to the MT folks as well for their input. Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Prop cable throw vs governor throw
Date: Nov 18, 2012
It sounds like you have more than enough movement to govern below 2000 RPM - call it done. Carl From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 9:02 AM Subject: RV-List: Prop cable throw vs governor throw Folks, I'm in the final reassembly stages after a derecho/tornado blew the hangar door in to my prop..prop is rebuilt and engine tore down for inspection. I have found while verifying my cabling that the prop governor has 1/8" more throw than my cable. I have it set up so the fine stop matches up but it won't go all the way coarse. I'm kinda thinking it doesn't matter as I don't think I have ever had the prop that far coarse. I can get a custom made cable with the correct throw - but do I need to? RV6A IO360B1F6 LASAR/Injected MTV12(B) 183-59 hydraulic CS I'll be sending this to the MT folks as well for their input. Ralph Capen ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Prop cable throw vs governor throw
Date: Nov 18, 2012
I have been flying it this way for three years...you have a good point! From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 9:41 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop cable throw vs governor throw It sounds like you have more than enough movement to govern below 2000 RPM - call it done. Carl From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 9:02 AM Subject: RV-List: Prop cable throw vs governor throw Folks, I'm in the final reassembly stages after a derecho/tornado blew the hangar door in to my prop..prop is rebuilt and engine tore down for inspection. I have found while verifying my cabling that the prop governor has 1/8" more throw than my cable. I have it set up so the fine stop matches up but it won't go all the way coarse. I'm kinda thinking it doesn't matter as I don't think I have ever had the prop that far coarse. I can get a custom made cable with the correct throw - but do I need to? RV6A IO360B1F6 LASAR/Injected MTV12(B) 183-59 hydraulic CS I'll be sending this to the MT folks as well for their input. Ralph Capen www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2012
From: HCRV6(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Looking for someone to work on my RV-6
William Dean Family, Sorry for you loss. Go to www.matronics.com/subscribe/ and follow the prompt. Harry Crosby ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Dean" <billoves2fly(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2012 3:58:23 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for someone to work on my RV-6 We have gone to Yahoo groups and removed all the groups, how do we get off this group. My father passed away and we no longer need these emails. Thank you for any assistance you can provide. The Dean family Sent from my iPad On Nov 17, 2012, at 5:16 PM, N616TB wrote: > > I have a flying RV-6 with over 150 hours. I had an incident landing in grass where a wheel pant came apart and rotated into the fuel tank. We were able to patch the tank however, I would like to have a new tank built. I have all the new parts for a completely new tank. I am looking for someone in Texas who could do this work as I am in process of moving my shop. I can bring the airplane to your location. > Please contact me off list. N616tb at btsapps dot com > > Best Regards; > > Timothy Bryan > We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, therefore, is not an act but a habit. > Aristotle > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Reminder
Dear Listers, A quick reminder that November is the annual Matronics List Fund Raiser. The Lists are 100% member supported and all of the operational costs are covered solely through your Contributions during this time of the year. *Your* personal Contribution makes a difference and keeps all of the Matronics Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free. Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running for another great year! Use a credit card or your PayPal account here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by sending a personal check to: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: A&p and Repairman Paper Certificates
Date: Nov 19, 2012
Got this notice from the FAA and figured I would spread it. All Paper Cert ificates including Repairman need to be replaced with the plastic ones. A&P Certificate Replacement =0A Notice Number: NOTC4449=0A =0A If you have already replaced your paper A&P certificate=2C =0A then this message is not for you. On the other hand=2C if your A&P =0A certificate is still printed on paper=2C please read carefully.=0A The FAA is under a mandate to replace all paper certificates with =0A plastic certificates. If you do not replace your paper certificate on or=0A before March 31=2C 2013=2C you will no longer be able to exercise your =0A privileges!=0A All certificated Airmen=2C including mechanics=2C repairmen=2C pilots=2C =0A etc.=2C are required to replace their paper copy with a plastic copy=2C or =0A they will no longer be able to exercise the privileges of that =0A certificate.=0A The best way to get a new replacement certificate is to follow the instru ctions at http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/airmen_certification/cer tificate_replacement/.=0A =0A The replacement cost is $2.00=2C unless you=0A still have your Social Security Number on your certificate and you ask =0A to have it removed.=0A =0A =0A Avoid the Rush! Apply today!=0A Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C 2=2C630+ Flying Hours So. CA=2C USA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Some Nice Comments...
Dear Listers, I've been getting some very nice comments from Listers along with their List Support Contributions. I've shared a number of them below. Please read them over and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation of these services. There are lots of sweet gifts available this year, so please browse the nice selection and pickup something fun with your qualifying Contribution! You may use a credit card or your PayPal account here: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or feel free to send a personal check to: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator -------------------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists -------------------- I have been flying my Pietenpol for a month now and am enjoying the fruits of ten hard years of work. I seriously doubt it would ever have been finished but for the help, encouragement and friendships I've received and made through the Pietenpol list. Douwe B Outstanding service to the flying community. George A Matt, I look forward to support each others projects, Glenn B Great list!!! Thanks for all your efforts! Roger C Thank you for keeping up the lists. Without it i would never have completed my aircraft. Stan S Keep up the good work my friend. I don't think I could ever finish my Pietenpol Air Camper without the help I get from this List. Tom S Thank you for keeping these list alive. Lee V The List is invaluable!! Svein J Thanks for continuing to provide the list service! Earl S You have a really GREAT service. Thankyou so much I've been on for nearly 30 years and I still check-in every morning. John B I rely fully on the lists which govern my every decision. The flexibility provides the security I seek. Fergus K My RV 7 Finally flies... 7 years of Matronics.com certainly helped. Martin H Great service here, thanks! I am just getting back to a project I dropped for a few years, great to see your site and all the folks again! James C Thanks for the great site. Robert U The Rotax list is good and the AeroElectric list outstanding! Jay H Thank you for a great resource! Jack T Thanks for your great record of outstanding service to the homebuilding community! Larry W This service is invaluable. Michael W You're doing a great job Matt. Robert D Thanks for all your work, its a great asset to all. John F Thank you for your time & effort Matt! Ted W Matt, been a follower since 2005 on the -10 list, now starting an -8. Keep up the great work! John M Still my favorite place to hang out. William W I'm not a Piet builder, but this is the most informative and congenial list I've ever run across. Please forgive my lurking-I learn a LOT here! Ken M Many thanks for keeping this alive, keep pushing! Adrian C Thanks! Please keep r going! Rich Z Many thanks for your hard work. Robert C Thanks for the Lists! I probably need to subscribe to a few more... John M Been a quick 14 years. Think I subscribed to the Kolb List in 1998, when I got my first computer. Thanks for keeping everything running smoothly for all these years. John H Great resource - thank you. David M I don't post very much, but get the postings, a lot of really practical info. John N Great job Matt, thanks for all you do. Roger M Thanks for ANOTHER great year, Matt! True grassroots experimental aviation has been pushed aside in many ways. But the List represents the evolution of this great tradition of home-building. One man, the plans, the tools, and the List - that's all you need to build the dream! Robert B This message board is a real help to my project and creating friendships. John S Many thanks for your continuing excellent work. Mike G Thank you for your work Matt. Your lists have helped me a great deal during the construction of my plane. Hal B Nice List Van E These lists are priceless for builders. Ronald C Thanks for keeping me in touch with the Pulsar community. Otto S Thanks for keeping up this great warbird sight!! Yak Ron Thanks for providing all the lists for so many years. H H Thanks for all that you do. Your dedication is much appreciated! Warren H Best service on the internet! Owen B I have learned so much from the "list". Nick C Great Service You Are Providing! Giffen M Thanks so much for maintaining these great resources. Dave S I no longer fly due to age and health problems, but I still enjoy the reading from other pilots. Dallas S This is a wonderful site. Robert B Useful service over the last year - thanks. Om T -------------------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists -------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: "Black Friday" For List Fund Raiser...?
Dear Listers, The number of List subscriptions are up by a fair amount this year, but support during this year's Fund Raiser is substantially behind last year, and there's only about a week left until the end of the Fund Raiser. I have always preferred a non-commercial List experience as many, many members have also expressed that they do as well. However, if the yearly fund raiser cannot generate sufficient funds to keep the bills paid, other sources of income might be required including some sort of advertising. Please don't let that happen! Your personal Contribution of $20 or $30 goes a long ways to keeping this operation a float. Please make sure your name is on this year's List of Contributors! The List Contribution site is secure, quick, and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just A Few More Days To Make Your List Contribution...
There is less than a week left in this year's List Fund Raiser and only a few short days to grab one of the great Contribution Gifts available this year. Support is still significantly lagging behind last year at this point but hopefully it will pick up here towards the end. Please remember that it is solely the Contributions of List members that keeps the Lists up and running as there is no commercialism or advertising on the Matronics Lists and Forums. The List Contribution web site is secure, fast, and easy and you can use a credit card, Paypal, or a personal check: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I want to thank everyone that has already made a generous contribution to support the Lists! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics EMail List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Contributions Down By 23%...
Dear Listers, As of today, Contributions to the Matronics List Fund Raiser are lagging behind last year at this time by roughly 23%. I have a Fund Raiser each year simply to cover my operating costs for the Lists. I *do not* accept any advertising income to support the Lists and rely solely on the Contributions of members to keep the expenses paid. I run all of my own servers and they are housed here locally, and the Internet connection is a commercial-grade, dual T1 connection with public address space. I also maintain a full backup system that does nightly backups of all List-related data so that in the event of a server crash, all of the Lists and the many years of List archive data could be restored onto a new server in a matter of hours. All of this costs a fair amount of money, not to mention a significant amount of my personal time. I have a Fund Raiser each year to cover these costs and I ask that members that feel they receive a benefit from my investments make a modest Contribution each year to support the continued operation and upgrade of these services. If you enjoy the Lists, please make a Contribution today. I also offer some incentive gifts for larger Contribution levels. At the Contribution Web Site, you can use a credit card, Paypal, or personal check to show your support for the continuation of these services: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming in December!
Dear Listers, There's just a couple more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Fuel pump fittings with cooling shroud attached
Folks, I have the cooling shroud sold by Aircraft Spruce over my fuel pump. I thought I had the fittings tightened well - but still have a leak. For those of you that have a similar configuration, how did you tighten the fittings? With all of the other stuff back there (prop governor) as well as the shroud covering the access it is very difficult to get a wrench in there. Is there a special tool - or did someone grind down something to make a special tool? Thanks, Ralph RV6A N822AR IO360B1F6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just 3 Days Left - Please Make Your List Contribution Today!
There are only three days left until the end of this year's List Fund Raiser. Please take a minute to show your support as so many others have this year and make sure YOUR name is on the forthcoming List of Contributors! Its quick and easy using the secure web site with a credit card or PayPal: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by sending your personal check to: Matronics Lists c/o Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your support of these List services! Matt Dralle Matronics Email and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel pump fittings with cooling shroud attached
Date: Nov 28, 2012
As I recall, it was an 1/8th turn by turn, and it took all afternoon. I may have used some form a gasket type stuff as well. However I did it, no leaks. I can't recall, but I think the bolts are safety wired and that was the most difficult part. Bob RV-6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2012 8:16 AM Subject: RV-List: Fuel pump fittings with cooling shroud attached > > Folks, > > I have the cooling shroud sold by Aircraft Spruce over my fuel pump. I > thought I had the fittings tightened well - but still have a leak. > > For those of you that have a similar configuration, how did you tighten > the fittings? With all of the other stuff back there (prop governor) as > well as the shroud covering the access it is very difficult to get a > wrench in there. Is there a special tool - or did someone grind down > something to make a special tool? > > Thanks, > Ralph > RV6A N822AR IO360B1F6 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just Two Days Left! - Still Behind...
Dear Listers, There are just two more days left in this years List Fund Raiser. Over the last couple of weeks I have received some more really nice comments from members on what the Lists have meant to them. I have included a few more of them below. Please read over the comments and ponder on your own feelings about the Lists and the support and camaraderie you have found here. We are still behind last year in terms of the number of contributions. I really want to keep providing these services to the homebuilt community, but it take resources. Since there's no advertising budget or deep pockets to keep the operation a float, its solely your generosity during the Fund Raiser that keeps things going. Please make a Contribution today. If you've been putting off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time to do it! Make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution web site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a check in the mail: Matronics / Matt Dralle 581 Jeannie Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thank you in advance for your support! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ==================== A Few List Member Comments ===================== I have been flying my Pietenpol for a month now and am enjoying the fruits of ten hard years of work. I seriously doubt it would ever have been finished but for the help, encouragement and friendships I've received and made through the Pietenpol list. Douwe B Hey-Long time subscriber, zero-time contributor. Just a note of thanks. This is first time I have the resources to contribute. Thanks for carrying a lightweight for years and a special thanks for your time and effort. Billy R My 601 hd is flying with the help with the listers. Noel G A very useful facility. Graeme B ..great site! Robert C Great Pietenpol site! Don Y Not active but always interested in keeping up. Enjoy when I can. Richard R Dave and Tim from Aircrafters just want to reiterate our thanks for hosting the lists. Tim F. I don't have a lot to give at this time of year, but I hope my contribution helps none the less. I really enjoy the message board. Mark C Thanks to your continued work on maintaining these lists. Ralph C The lists and the various contributors have been a great help while I was building and also now that I'm flying. Albert G Very helpful tools for the homebuilder. Vaughn T We appreciate your great help! Richard H Many of our customers have expressed to us that you provide them with an invaluable service - and we agree! Bill B I Fly a Quicksilver GT400 but love to read what the Kolb boys have to say and it was on your list that I found out about the Yamaha product Ring Free,, now called engine med, that shit works.. no carbon in my rings or any to speak of with the use of the Yamaha product with a premix 503 with over 300 hrs of use.. thanks to your Kolb bulletin board. Robert B You are providing a valuable service that helps a lot of people through information sharing. When I built my Pietenpol over 40 years ago we were largely on our own, working without a resource like this list. Graham H Thanks for the opportunity to link us all, keep the good work! Peter B ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net>
Subject: Spins in an RV-6
Date: Nov 29, 2012
Recently posted on the VAF: >The reasoning behind using the larger rudders (RV-8 at first, then finally >the late RV-7/RV-9 rudder) on the -6 was to help with spin recovery. You do >not want to intentionally spin a -6. It is capable of >spin recovery with >the original small rudder, but the spin develops very quickly and will take >much longer to recover with full recovery control inputs than what a >"regular spamcan" trainer airplane will do. In >other words, spinning a -6 >will probably scare the holy crapola out of you and might make you panic >(and if you don't have enough altitude, then you know what happens next). I disagree. I have an RV6 with the small rudder and I intentionally spin it almost every flight. I fly the IAC sportsman aerobatic sequence with it and have no problems. One must just carefully watch entry and exit speeds on some maneuvers. I do not like the term "gentleman aerobatics," it implies to me that you fly the maneuver sloppily with a who cares attitude. I fly each maneuver as precisely and as aggressively as possible (by aggressive I don't mean violent, but when it is time to pull to 4Gs, then smoothly, but quickly ...PULL TO 4Gs!). As for spins: 1. It takes a positive prospin inputs to enter and stay in the spin. My RV does not like to spin without aggressive prospin inputs, my RV has failed to spin on numerous occasions (that gentleman aerobatic stuff). 2. Spin recovery: a. Throttle off b. Opposite rudder c. And or Release back pressure (I find if I release back pressure too soon the spin will stop before I apply opposite rudder) d. If you do both as the Briggs-Meyer technique describes, then the spin stops instantaneously. 3. Competition spins are only 1-2 turns, never more than two. To stay in the spin beyond the first half turn requires that positive prospin inputs be maintained. I do not spin more than 2 turns as there is no point for aerobatic competitions. 4. Unintentional spins with power on. If you fly based upon airspeed, G number and bank angle, how on earth would this happen? But if it does, spin exit: a. reduce power b. release all controls c. If spin hasn't stopped, apply opposite rudder d. Reduce back pressure if any (my old flight instructor told me, you can't spin if the wing isn't stalled). Van recommends forward push, point is that elevator should go to neutral. NOTE: if you use to much negative elevator during the recovery it is possible in some aircraft to do a crossover spin, i.e. recover from a upright spin into an inverted spin. e. Recover to level flight, then add power. 5. For a competition spin, after spin stops, aircraft must recover to a vertical downline, then recover to straight and level. After the spin stops, it is easy to recover to straight and level, don't need power. But for competition spins it takes a significant amount of forward push to get the aircraft into the vertical downline. NOTE: the idea of going to a vertical downline is to gain sufficient airspeed to insure one does not recover to level flight in a stall condition. This is really not a problem with an RV. 6. If you find yourself in an unintentional spin, then you should be able to recover in 1/2 turn or less (but it will take practice). Spins in an RV6 should be no more scary than any other maneuver. If you have never done a spin, get a flight instructor to show you how. If you fear the spin, then it is due to a lack of spin understanding and practice rather than of any real danger, unless you are doing it less than 1,000 feet AGL! My competition spins need 600-900 feet to complete, that includes the intentional downline. I probably could do a 1/2 turn spin and recover in less than 300 feet. BTW, from an aerodynamic standpoint, higher vertical rudder is not the best answer for increased spin recovery as the wing tends to blank out the top portion of the rudder, more rudder below the horizontal stabilizer is much more effective in an upright spin. Read Alan Cassidy's book "Better Aerobatics" for an indepth explanation. Anyway, that is my 10 years experience with spins in my RV6. Your RV6 may be different! Bob RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Spins in an RV-6
Date: Nov 29, 2012
I would agree with much of what you said below, however having built and owned a number of RV6's over the past decades I will attest to the fact that the differences between planes and their configurations can be a HUGE factor in this particular airframe....specifically engine/prop combos, battery location, fuel levels, CG, W&B, etc.. Indeed some of them behave exactly as Bob mentioned below, but then again some of them are just absolute tigers (meaning they will wind up quickly and will NOT come out in a half turn no matter what you do or how good you are). My point of caution is that just because one particular airframe may behave that way and allow a quick spin recovery, my experience is that many -6's will not (and some -4's as well). I certainly wouldnt out practicing for my first time with that assumption! In the end though, some of them do behave in the way that absolutely requires you to work hard in order to even get them into a spin (much less maintain it). Just my 2 cents as usual! Cheers, Stein -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Panama Red Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2012 3:34 PM Subject: RV-List: Spins in an RV-6 Recently posted on the VAF: I disagree. I have an RV6 with the small rudder and I intentionally spin it almost every flight. I fly the IAC sportsman aerobatic sequence with it and have no problems. One must just carefully watch entry and exit speeds on some maneuvers. I do not like the term "gentleman aerobatics," it implies to me that you fly the maneuver sloppily with a who cares attitude. I fly each maneuver as precisely and as aggressively as possible (by aggressive I don't mean violent, but when it is time to pull to 4Gs, then smoothly, but quickly ...PULL TO 4Gs!). As for spins: 1. It takes a positive prospin inputs to enter and stay in the spin. My RV does not like to spin without aggressive prospin inputs, my RV has failed to spin on numerous occasions (that gentleman aerobatic stuff). 2. Spin recovery: a. Throttle off b. Opposite rudder c. And or Release back pressure (I find if I release back pressure too soon the spin will stop before I apply opposite rudder) d. If you do both as the Briggs-Meyer technique describes, then the spin stops instantaneously. 3. Competition spins are only 1-2 turns, never more than two. To stay in the spin beyond the first half turn requires that positive prospin inputs be maintained. I do not spin more than 2 turns as there is no point for aerobatic competitions. 4. Unintentional spins with power on. If you fly based upon airspeed, G number and bank angle, how on earth would this happen? But if it does, spin exit: a. reduce power b. release all controls c. If spin hasn't stopped, apply opposite rudder d. Reduce back pressure if any (my old flight instructor told me, you can't spin if the wing isn't stalled). Van recommends forward push, point is that elevator should go to neutral. NOTE: if you use to much negative elevator during the recovery it is possible in some aircraft to do a crossover spin, i.e. recover from a upright spin into an inverted spin. e. Recover to level flight, then add power. 5. For a competition spin, after spin stops, aircraft must recover to a vertical downline, then recover to straight and level. After the spin stops, it is easy to recover to straight and level, don't need power. But for competition spins it takes a significant amount of forward push to get the aircraft into the vertical downline. NOTE: the idea of going to a vertical downline is to gain sufficient airspeed to insure one does not recover to level flight in a stall condition. This is really not a problem with an RV. 6. If you find yourself in an unintentional spin, then you should be able to recover in 1/2 turn or less (but it will take practice). Spins in an RV6 should be no more scary than any other maneuver. If you have never done a spin, get a flight instructor to show you how. If you fear the spin, then it is due to a lack of spin understanding and practice rather than of any real danger, unless you are doing it less than 1,000 feet AGL! My competition spins need 600-900 feet to complete, that includes the intentional downline. I probably could do a 1/2 turn spin and recover in less than 300 feet. BTW, from an aerodynamic standpoint, higher vertical rudder is not the best answer for increased spin recovery as the wing tends to blank out the top portion of the rudder, more rudder below the horizontal stabilizer is much more effective in an upright spin. Read Alan Cassidy's book "Better Aerobatics" for an indepth explanation. Anyway, that is my 10 years experience with spins in my RV6. Your RV6 may be different! Bob RV6 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2012
Subject: Re: Spins in an RV-6
From: David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com>
I definately agree with Stein and Bob, they have not really contradiced each other. My RV-6 is clearly different than Bobs. While spin recovery is reliably prompt if recovered within one turn, fully developed spins are another matter. Recovery depends highly on development (how many turns so far), CG and loaded weight (heavier and more aft both slow recovery significantly), and spin direction (I have a heavy right wing so left spins recover easier). My engine and FP prop are rather light so I am usually more aft CG than a lot of RV-6's. I have been in spins where static spin recovery inputs don't do it. Meaning, neither releasing back pressure nor holding the stick forward would allow recovery by itself (oppisite rudder being applied). The technique in my plane is to relase back pressure until the rotation slows, then briskly but smoothly move the stick forward before the spin develops in the oppisite direction. It is a very re-assuring feeing when you feel the plane start to 'fly' again. The first couple of turns are steeply pointed downward and lazy feeling (except for the abrupt pitch downward). Developed spins are flat and quick enough to send all the fuel outboard in the tanks making the engine stop and oil pressure goes away. Quite a ride really. I loose about 400' per turn. I begin recovery no less than 6k' AGL. It takes 2-4 turns to recover from a developed spin especially if you don't do it right the first time. Snap rolls are fun and recover instantly but seem to stress out the tail wheel linkages when I do them. As for upgrading the rudder in the -6 the the 7/8 rudder - the main advantage there is the counterbalance, giving a wider margin from flutter. I know the rudder are also bigger, but I have never really felt that I needed more rudder. That is my experience. -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net http://RotaryRoster.net On Thu, Nov 29, 2012 at 2:05 PM, Stein Bruch wrote: > > I would agree with much of what you said below, however having built and > owned a number of RV6's over the past decades I will attest to the fact > that the differences between planes and their configurations can be a HUG E > factor in this particular airframe....specifically engine/prop combos, > battery location, fuel levels, CG, W&B, etc.. Indeed some of them behave > exactly as Bob mentioned below, but then again some of them are just > absolute tigers (meaning they will wind up quickly and will NOT come out in > a half turn no matter what you do or how good you are). My point of > caution is that just because one particular airframe may behave that way > and allow a quick spin recovery, my experience is that many -6's will not > (and some -4's as well). I certainly wouldn=92t out practicing for my fi rst > time with that assumption! In the end though, some of them do behave in t he > way that absolutely requires you to work hard in order to even get them > into a spin (much less maintain it). > > Just my 2 cents as usual! > > Cheers, > > Stein > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Panama Red > Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2012 3:34 PM > To: Panama Red; rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Spins in an RV-6 > > > Recently posted on the VAF: > > > I disagree. I have an RV6 with the small rudder and I intentionally spin > it almost every flight. I fly the IAC sportsman aerobatic sequence with > it and have no problems. One must just carefully watch entry and exit > speeds on some maneuvers. I do not like the term "gentleman aerobatics," > it implies to me that you fly the maneuver sloppily with a who cares > attitude. > I fly each maneuver as precisely and as aggressively as possible (by > aggressive I don't mean violent, but when it is time to pull to 4Gs, then > smoothly, but quickly ...PULL TO 4Gs!). > > > As for spins: > > 1. It takes a positive prospin inputs to enter and stay in the spin. My > RV does not like to spin without aggressive prospin inputs, my RV has > failed to spin on numerous occasions (that gentleman aerobatic stuff). > > 2. Spin recovery: > > a. Throttle off > > b. Opposite rudder > > c. And or Release back pressure (I find if I release back pressure > too soon the spin will stop before I apply opposite rudder) > > d. If you do both as the Briggs-Meyer technique describes, then the > spin stops instantaneously. > > 3. Competition spins are only 1-2 turns, never more than two. To stay i n > the spin beyond the first half turn requires that positive prospin inputs > be maintained. I do not spin more than 2 turns as there is no point for > aerobatic competitions. > > 4. Unintentional spins with power on. If you fly based upon airspeed, G > number and bank angle, how on earth would this happen? But if it does, s pin > exit: > > a. reduce power > > b. release all controls > > c. If spin hasn't stopped, apply opposite rudder > > d. Reduce back pressure if any (my old flight instructor told me, yo u > can't spin if the wing isn't stalled). Van recommends forward push, poin t > is that elevator should go to neutral. NOTE: if you use to much negativ e > elevator during the recovery it is possible in some aircraft to do a > crossover spin, i.e. recover from a upright spin into an inverted spin. > > e. Recover to level flight, then add power. > > 5. For a competition spin, after spin stops, aircraft must recover to a > vertical downline, then recover to straight and level. After the spin > stops, it is easy to recover to straight and level, don't need power. Bu t > for competition spins it takes a significant amount of forward push to ge t > the aircraft into the vertical downline. NOTE: the idea of going to a > vertical downline is to gain sufficient airspeed to insure one does not > recover to level flight in a stall condition. This is really not a probl em > with an RV. > > 6. If you find yourself in an unintentional spin, then you should be abl e > to recover in 1/2 turn or less (but it will take practice). Spins in an > RV6 should be no more scary than any other maneuver. If you have never > done a spin, get a flight instructor to show you how. If you fear the > spin, then it is due to a lack of spin understanding and practice rather > than of any real danger, unless you are doing it less than 1,000 feet AGL ! > My competition spins need 600-900 feet to complete, that includes the > intentional downline. I probably could do a 1/2 turn spin and recover in > less than 300 feet. > > > BTW, from an aerodynamic standpoint, higher vertical rudder is not the > best answer for increased spin recovery as the wing tends to blank out th e > top portion of the rudder, more rudder below the horizontal stabilizer is > much > more effective in an upright spin. Read Alan Cassidy's book "Better > Aerobatics" for an indepth explanation. > > > Anyway, that is my 10 years experience with spins in my RV6. Your RV6 ma y > be different! > > > Bob > > RV6 > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Charles Brame <chasb(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Spins in an RV-6
Date: Nov 30, 2012
I agree with Stein that each RV-6 is different. I've only spun mine, but it seems to spin different than other -6 owners I've talked to that have spun their birds. My -6 is reluctant to spin and requires full pro spin controls to enter and/or to stay in a spin. That includes spins in either direction, accelerated entries, slow, nose up entries, entries with and without power, and entries with various CGs. All seem to result in similar spin conditions with relatively slow smooth entries and very quick recoveries using only neutral controls. The rotational rate of my -6 spins is quite low though I have not timed them. The only disconcerting aspect is vertical oscillations while in the spin - the nose tends to vary 30=B0 - 40=B0 up and down with a very rapid transition from nose high to nose low and with two or three vertical oscillations per turn. I've only held the spins for two turns as the vertical oscillations are disconcerting and seem to increase in violence as the spin progresses. Two turn spins and recovery to level flight usually takes less than 1,000 feet of altitude with less than three Gs during the recovery. In fact, if the recovery is initiated with the nose going up, the spin stops with virtually no additional loss of altitude. I have not tried inverted spins and don't intend to. My spin experience is limited in light airplanes with only a few spins in various birds. However, I have extensive spin experience in the T-37, with literally thousands of fully developed spins to include accelerated and inverted spins. The T-37 had a very stable spin, about 30=B0 nose low, a very rapid loss of altitude, and a very high rate of rotation (a full rotation every three seconds in its slowest, most stable mode.) Its recovery required aggressive full anti spin controls resulting in a near vertical attitude following recovery. By comparison, my -6 spins MUCH slower, with a much quicker and much smoother recovery, but with the vertical oscillations mentioned above if held in the spin. I encourage RV owners to familiarize themselves with their bird's spin entries and recovery. The emphasis should be on spin prevention, with no intention to fully develop a spin or hold the spin for more than a half turn. Those individuals with no previous spin experience should get some qualified spin instruction before trying it solo in any aircraft. Spins should be respected, but not feared. Charlie Brame RV-6A N11CB San Antonio ------------------------------------------------------------------ > From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Spins in an RV-6 > > > I would agree with much of what you said below, however having built > and owned > a number of RV6's over the past decades I will attest to the fact > that the differences > between planes and their configurations can be a HUGE factor in this > particular airframe....specifically engine/prop combos, battery > location, fuel > levels, CG, W&B, etc.. Indeed some of them behave exactly as Bob > mentioned below, > but then again some of them are just absolute tigers (meaning they > will > wind up quickly and will NOT come out in a half turn no matter what > you do or > how good you are). My point of caution is that just because one > particular airframe > may behave that way and allow a quick spin recovery, my experience > is that > many -6's will not (and some -4's as well). I certainly wouldnt out > practicing > for my first time with that assumption! In the end though, some of > them > do behave in the way that absolutely requires you to work hard in > order to even > get them into a spin (much less maintain it). > > Just my 2 cents as usual! > > Cheers, > > Stein ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, Its November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again; number 49 actually! But it also means that its that last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!! If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting it off for some reason, NOW is the time! I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want to be known as a person that supported the Lists! I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running and I don't ever forget it. The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making your Contribution right now: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you to all in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2012
From: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Spins in an RV-6
Guys, (and gals...), those three notes on spinning are three of the best written, concise, and non-hackle-raising notes I've seen in these fora. Kudos. Glen Matejcek ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Building RV-6 Fuse Looking for Jig
Date: Nov 30, 2012
Does anyone in the So. Cal. area know of or have a jig to build the -6 Fuse lage? I'M just about at the point where I'll need one. Thanks. R.C. > Date: Fri=2C 30 Nov 2012 09:04:44 -0800 > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > From: dralle(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! > > > Dear Listers=2C > > Its November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birth day again=3B number 49 actually! But it also means that its that last off icial day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking ab out picking up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!! > > If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been pu tting it off for some reason=2C NOW is the time! > > I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days=2C so you'll pro bably want to be known as a person that supported the Lists! > > I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operat ion running and I don't ever forget it. > > The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habi t by making your Contribution right now: > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > Or=2C by dropping a personal check in the mail to: > > Matt Dralle / Matronics > 581 Jeannie Way > Livermore CA 94550 > > Thank you to all in advance! > > Matt Dralle > Matronics Email List Administrator > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Baron Mobile Link System for sale
Date: Dec 01, 2012
Greetings: I have a complete Baron Weather Works system for sale. This system provides complete XM weather to your IPAD via a WIFI connection. Unlike ADSB this system provides near real time weather ON THE GROUND OR ANYWHERE IN THE US. I will also include the Dual portable GPS which provides accurate wireless GPS position to your IPAD. All cables and system components are included along with a triplex cigarette power adapter. All equipment is in like new condition. This is a $1,200 value. After having in flight weather I would not fly cross country trips again without it. Asking $500.00 or best offer. Dick Sipp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts
Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by tornado. Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was running for a while. I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing completely CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak Refresh my memory here. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2012
Subject: Re: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts
From: Shannon Miller <apebiz(at)gmail.com>
I'm no expert, but I can share my own understanding. See below. On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 2:33 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by > tornado. > > Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was > running for a while. > > I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is > happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. > > EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and > burning on the way out - plug not firing > Right. Possibly some sort of spark plug problem. Could be a fouled plug or disconnected/broken plug wire. Consider a mag check (even if you're only seeing this in flight -- just do it at a safe altitude and within gliding distance to a safe landing spot) to identify the plug/wire; if the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle before switching off the bad mag to avoid backfiring. > EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the > way out - plug not firing completely > Agreed. Same possible causes as above. > CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air > Or insufficient fuel flow, power too high for the air flow, mixture too lean, or RPM too low for the power setting. Possible in-flight solutions: lower nose to increase airspeed, open cowl flaps if you have them, enrichen the mixture (confirm that you're rich of peak by noting a decrease in EGT's as you enrichen the mixture), reduce power (MP), increase prop RPM. Now if it's just one cylinder, I would guess it's either some sort of baffling issue or fuel flow issue to that cylinder. > EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak > Agree, or possible magneto/ignition problem if it's all cylinders -- a mag check would identify which mag/ignition source. If it's just one cylinder, it could be a partially clogged fuel injector: go full rich mixture and momentarily turn on the boost pump -- it might dislodge the clog! > Refresh my memory here. I assume you're talking only "somewhat" elevated EGT and CHT values, and not values which are "sky high" which could indicate detonation or pre-ignition and ultimate catastrophic engine failure! That's all I can offer. No warranty, but I hope it helps! --Shannon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts
Thanks. This was only one cylinder, the EGT only went up (enough to catch my attention - not red-line). I have already pulled both plugs - the lower one was wet which may not mean anything. Neither of them looked abnormal - cleaned and reinstalled. -----Original Message----- From: Shannon Miller Sent: Dec 3, 2012 7:21 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts I'm no expert, but I can share my own understanding. See below. On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 2:33 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by tornado. Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was running for a while. I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing Right. Possibly some sort of spark plug problem. Could be a fouled plug or disconnected/broken plug wire. Consider a mag check (even if you're only seeing this in flight -- just do it at a safe altitude and within gliding distance to a safe landing spot) to identify the plug/wire; if the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle before switching off the bad mag to avoid backfiring. EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing completely Agreed. Same possible causes as above. CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air Or insufficient fuel flow, power too high for the air flow, mixture too lean, or RPM too low for the power setting. Possible in-flight solutions: lower nose to increase airspeed, open cowl flaps if you have them, enrichen the mixture (confirm that you're rich of peak by noting a decrease in EGT's as you enrichen the mixture), reduce power (MP), increase prop RPM. Now if it's just one cylinder, I would guess it's either some sort of baffling issue or fuel flow issue to that cylinder. EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak Agree, or possible magneto/ignition problem if it's all cylinders -- a mag check would identify which mag/ignition source. If it's just one cylinder, it could be a partially clogged fuel injector: go full rich mixture and momentarily turn on the boost pump -- it might dislodge the clog! Refresh my memory here. I assume you're talking only "somewhat" elevated EGT and CHT values, and not values which are "sky high" which could indicate detonation or pre-ignition and ultimate catastrophic engine failure! That's all I can offer. No warranty, but I hope it helps! --Shannon ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2012
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts
Only two items will cause a single cylinder EGT to rise significantly. Either one plug stopped firing, or an induction leak developed. Single spark instead of two plugs firing will cause 50-150 degree EGT rise. So will a loose intake tube or gasket. On 12/4/2012 5:47 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Thanks. > > This was only one cylinder, the EGT only went up (enough to catch my attention - not red-line). > > I have already pulled both plugs - the lower one was wet which may not mean anything. Neither of them looked abnormal - cleaned and reinstalled. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Shannon Miller > > Sent: Dec 3, 2012 7:21 PM > > To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts > > > I'm no expert, but I can share my own understanding. See below. > > On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 2:33 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by tornado. > > > Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was running for a while. > > > I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. > > > EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing > > Right. Possibly some sort of spark plug problem. Could be a fouled plug or disconnected/broken plug wire. Consider a mag check (even if you're only seeing this in flight -- just do it at a safe altitude and within gliding distance to a safe landing spot) to identify the plug/wire; if the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle before switching off the bad mag to avoid backfiring. > > EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing completely > > Agreed. Same possible causes as above. > > CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air > > Or insufficient fuel flow, power too high for the air flow, mixture too lean, or RPM too low for the power setting. Possible in-flight solutions: lower nose to increase airspeed, open cowl flaps if you have them, enrichen the mixture (confirm that you're rich of peak by noting a decrease in EGT's as you enrichen the mixture), reduce power (MP), increase prop RPM. Now if it's just one cylinder, I would guess it's either some sort of baffling issue or fuel flow issue to that cylinder. > > EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak > > Agree, or possible magneto/ignition problem if it's all cylinders -- a mag check would identify which mag/ignition source. If it's just one cylinder, it could be a partially clogged fuel injector: go full rich mixture and momentarily turn on the boost pump -- it might dislodge the clog! > > > Refresh my memory here. > I assume you're talking only "somewhat" elevated EGT and CHT values, and not values which are "sky high" which could indicate detonation or pre-ignition and ultimate catastrophic engine failure! > > That's all I can offer. No warranty, but I hope it helps! > --Shannon > > ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2012
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts
Thanks - I'll keep looking for an induction leak. Already contemplating moving my MAP sensor port from that cylinder to the one in front of it. -----Original Message----- >From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> >Sent: Dec 4, 2012 9:10 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts > > >Only two items will cause a single cylinder EGT to rise significantly. >Either one plug stopped firing, or an induction leak developed. Single >spark instead of two plugs firing will cause 50-150 degree EGT rise. So >will a loose intake tube or gasket. > >On 12/4/2012 5:47 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: >> >> Thanks. >> >> This was only one cylinder, the EGT only went up (enough to catch my attention - not red-line). >> >> I have already pulled both plugs - the lower one was wet which may not mean anything. Neither of them looked abnormal - cleaned and reinstalled. >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: Shannon Miller >> >> Sent: Dec 3, 2012 7:21 PM >> >> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts >> >> >> >> I'm no expert, but I can share my own understanding. See below. >> >> On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 2:33 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: >> >> Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by tornado. >> >> >> >> Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was running for a while. >> >> >> >> I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. >> >> >> >> EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing >> >> Right. Possibly some sort of spark plug problem. Could be a fouled plug or disconnected/broken plug wire. Consider a mag check (even if you're only seeing this in flight -- just do it at a safe altitude and within gliding distance to a safe landing spot) to identify the plug/wire; if the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle before switching off the bad mag to avoid backfiring. >> >> EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing completely >> >> Agreed. Same possible causes as above. >> >> CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air >> >> Or insufficient fuel flow, power too high for the air flow, mixture too lean, or RPM too low for the power setting. Possible in-flight solutions: lower nose to increase airspeed, open cowl flaps if you have them, enrichen the mixture (confirm that you're rich of peak by noting a decrease in EGT's as you enrichen the mixture), reduce power (MP), increase prop RPM. Now if it's just one cylinder, I would guess it's either some sort of baffling issue or fuel flow issue to that cylinder. >> >> EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak >> >> Agree, or possible magneto/ignition problem if it's all cylinders -- a mag check would identify which mag/ignition source. If it's just one cylinder, it could be a partially clogged fuel injector: go full rich mixture and momentarily turn on the boost pump -- it might dislodge the clog! >> >> >> >> >> Refresh my memory here. >> I assume you're talking only "somewhat" elevated EGT and CHT values, and not values which are "sky high" which could indicate detonation or pre-ignition and ultimate catastrophic engine failure! >> >> That's all I can offer. No warranty, but I hope it helps! >> --Shannon >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >----- >No virus found in this message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2012
Subject: RV-6 FOR SALE
From: Robert Brumwell <rbrumwell(at)gmail.com>
1992 Van's RV-6 for sale. $55,000. Always hangared, never damaged. 180 HP Lycoming )-360A1A, 1300 TT. Comression in 70's. Hartzell CS prop 1300 TT, 160 SMOH. One Lightspeed ign. IFR equipped: VOR, ILS, dual VHF, intercom (Terra). Approach cert. Apollo GX-50 GPS. Two axis autopilot, electr. pitch trim. EI engine analyzer and fuel gages. Solid, fun aircraft located @ F45 near Jupiter, FL. Bob Brumwell (561) 746-6119. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rich and Pat" <richpatzeidman(at)verizon.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/04/12
Date: Dec 05, 2012
Two weeks ago I had a high EGT reading at cruise on the #3 cylinder. (1600-1700) It turned out the probe was worn through from the exhaust pipe. The probe was installed where the pipe has a slip joint and the vibration wore through the probe casing. When I replaced the probe I enlarged the hole on the inner pipe so that should not happen again. Rich Zeidman RV7 N42PZ Cape Coral Fl. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV-List Digest Server Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 3:01 AM Subject: RV-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 12/04/12 * ================================================= Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive ================================================= Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor such as Notepad or with a web browser. HTML Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 12-12-04&Archive=RV Text Version: http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 2012-12-04&Archive=RV =============================================== EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive =============================================== ---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 12/04/12: 3 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:48 AM - Re: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts (Ralph E. Capen) 2. 06:11 AM - Re: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts (Kelly McMullen) 3. 06:25 AM - Re: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts (Ralph E. Capen) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts Thanks. This was only one cylinder, the EGT only went up (enough to catch my attention - not red-line). I have already pulled both plugs - the lower one was wet which may not mean anything. Neither of them looked abnormal - cleaned and reinstalled. -----Original Message----- From: Shannon Miller Sent: Dec 3, 2012 7:21 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts I'm no expert, but I can share my own understanding. See below. On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 2:33 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by tornado. Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was running for a while. I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing Right. Possibly some sort of spark plug problem. Could be a fouled plug or disconnected/broken plug wire. Consider a mag check (even if you're only seeing this in flight -- just do it at a safe altitude and within gliding distance to a safe landing spot) to identify the plug/wire; if the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle before switching off the bad mag to avoid backfiring. EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing completely Agreed. Same possible causes as above. CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air Or insufficient fuel flow, power too high for the air flow, mixture too lean, or RPM too low for the power setting. Possible in-flight solutions: lower nose to increase airspeed, open cowl flaps if you have them, enrichen the mixture (confirm that you're rich of peak by noting a decrease in EGT's as you enrichen the mixture), reduce power (MP), increase prop RPM. Now if it's just one cylinder, I would guess it's either some sort of baffling issue or fuel flow issue to that cylinder. EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak Agree, or possible magneto/ignition problem if it's all cylinders -- a mag check would identify which mag/ignition source. If it's just one cylinder, it could be a partially clogged fuel injector: go full rich mixture and momentarily turn on the boost pump -- it might dislodge the clog! Refresh my memory here. I assume you're talking only "somewhat" elevated EGT and CHT values, and not values which are "sky high" which could indicate detonation or pre-ignition and ultimate catastrophic engine failure! That's all I can offer. No warranty, but I hope it helps! --Shannon ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts Only two items will cause a single cylinder EGT to rise significantly. Either one plug stopped firing, or an induction leak developed. Single spark instead of two plugs firing will cause 50-150 degree EGT rise. So will a loose intake tube or gasket. On 12/4/2012 5:47 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Thanks. > > This was only one cylinder, the EGT only went up (enough to catch my attention - not red-line). > > I have already pulled both plugs - the lower one was wet which may not mean anything. Neither of them looked abnormal - cleaned and reinstalled. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Shannon Miller > > Sent: Dec 3, 2012 7:21 PM > > To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts > > > I'm no expert, but I can share my own understanding. See below. > > On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 2:33 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: > > Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by tornado. > > > Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was running for a while. > > > I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. > > > EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing > > Right. Possibly some sort of spark plug problem. Could be a fouled plug or disconnected/broken plug wire. Consider a mag check (even if you're only seeing this in flight -- just do it at a safe altitude and within gliding distance to a safe landing spot) to identify the plug/wire; if the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle before switching off the bad mag to avoid backfiring. > > EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing completely > > Agreed. Same possible causes as above. > > CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air > > Or insufficient fuel flow, power too high for the air flow, mixture too lean, or RPM too low for the power setting. Possible in-flight solutions: lower nose to increase airspeed, open cowl flaps if you have them, enrichen the mixture (confirm that you're rich of peak by noting a decrease in EGT's as you enrichen the mixture), reduce power (MP), increase prop RPM. Now if it's just one cylinder, I would guess it's either some sort of baffling issue or fuel flow issue to that cylinder. > > EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak > > Agree, or possible magneto/ignition problem if it's all cylinders -- a mag check would identify which mag/ignition source. If it's just one cylinder, it could be a partially clogged fuel injector: go full rich mixture and momentarily turn on the boost pump -- it might dislodge the clog! > > > Refresh my memory here. > I assume you're talking only "somewhat" elevated EGT and CHT values, and not values which are "sky high" which could indicate detonation or pre-ignition and ultimate catastrophic engine failure! > > That's all I can offer. No warranty, but I hope it helps! > --Shannon > > ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts Thanks - I'll keep looking for an induction leak. Already contemplating moving my MAP sensor port from that cylinder to the one in front of it. -----Original Message----- >From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> >Sent: Dec 4, 2012 9:10 AM >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts > > >Only two items will cause a single cylinder EGT to rise significantly. >Either one plug stopped firing, or an induction leak developed. Single >spark instead of two plugs firing will cause 50-150 degree EGT rise. So >will a loose intake tube or gasket. > >On 12/4/2012 5:47 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: >> >> Thanks. >> >> This was only one cylinder, the EGT only went up (enough to catch my attention - not red-line). >> >> I have already pulled both plugs - the lower one was wet which may not mean anything. Neither of them looked abnormal - cleaned and reinstalled. >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> >> From: Shannon Miller >> >> Sent: Dec 3, 2012 7:21 PM >> >> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" >> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine combustion troubleshooting concepts >> >> >> >> I'm no expert, but I can share my own understanding. See below. >> >> On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 2:33 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote: >> >> Re-breaking in my engine after prop-strike by hangar door induced by tornado. >> >> >> >> Considering the engine already had 160+ hours on it - I know how it was running for a while. >> >> >> >> I have one cylinder running not like the others. Before I tell what is happening, I want to make sure I understand/remember the basic concepts. >> >> >> >> EGT-only elevated - CHT reduced...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing >> >> Right. Possibly some sort of spark plug problem. Could be a fouled plug or disconnected/broken plug wire. Consider a mag check (even if you're only seeing this in flight -- just do it at a safe altitude and within gliding distance to a safe landing spot) to identify the plug/wire; if the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle before switching off the bad mag to avoid backfiring. >> >> EGT-only elevated - ...unburned fuel going out exhaust and burning on the way out - plug not firing completely >> >> Agreed. Same possible causes as above. >> >> CHT-only elevated...not enough cooling air >> >> Or insufficient fuel flow, power too high for the air flow, mixture too lean, or RPM too low for the power setting. Possible in-flight solutions: lower nose to increase airspeed, open cowl flaps if you have them, enrichen the mixture (confirm that you're rich of peak by noting a decrease in EGT's as you enrichen the mixture), reduce power (MP), increase prop RPM. Now if it's just one cylinder, I would guess it's either some sort of baffling issue or fuel flow issue to that cylinder. >> >> EGT and CHT elevated...lean mixture - air leak >> >> Agree, or possible magneto/ignition problem if it's all cylinders -- a mag check would identify which mag/ignition source. If it's just one cylinder, it could be a partially clogged fuel injector: go full rich mixture and momentarily turn on the boost pump -- it might dislodge the clog! >> >> >> >> >> Refresh my memory here. >> I assume you're talking only "somewhat" elevated EGT and CHT values, and not values which are "sky high" which could indicate detonation or pre-ignition and ultimate catastrophic engine failure! >> >> That's all I can offer. No warranty, but I hope it helps! >> --Shannon >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >----- >No virus found in this message. >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 06, 2012
Subject: 1992 RV-6 for sale
From: Robert Brumwell <rbrumwell(at)gmail.com>
RV-6 135BB This aircraft is based @ F45 (N. Palm Beach county airport), is in current annual and is flying with all IFR equipment in working order. Engine- Lycoming 0-360 A1A TT 1300 hrs, new from Lycoming in 1992. Compression in 70=92s, never been opened. Equipment installed on engine: Lightweight Skytec starter installed 2006, 1 magneto and one Lightspeed ign. system installed, second mag included. Vetterman exhaust, Woodward prop governor. Vacuum pump. Prop- Hartzell HC-C2YK-1BF 1300TT, 160 hr SMOH Instruments- EI Smart scanner CHT/4probe EGT, EI fuel gage. Electric turn rate, vacuum gyros. Avionics- Apollo GX-50 approach cert. GPS, altitude encoder. Dual Terra VHF, VOR/ILS, transponder. Navaid autopilot, TruTrak altitude hold. Ray-Allen electric pitch trim. Airframe: Cleveland wheels, brakes. Whelan single strobe. Night lights. Kroger canopy sunshade. Full swivel steerable tailwheel. Contact: Bob Brumwell (561) 746-6119 email: rbrumwell(at)gmail.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2012
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: 2012 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, The 2012 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended about a week ago and its time that I publish this year's List of Contributors. It is the people on this list that directly make the Email Lists and Forums possible! Their generous Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running! You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 I also want to thank Bob, Jon, and Andy for their generous support through the supply of great gifts this year!! These guys have some excellent products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites: Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - http://www.aeroelectric.com Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com And finally, I'm proud to present The 2012 Fund Raiser List of Contributors: http://www.matronics.com/loc/2012.html Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Prep for Assy.
Date: Dec 20, 2012
Folks=2C I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the in terior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in So . Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated=2C so it only gets down t o the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers=2C as well as Epoxy primer s. This is not going to be a "show" plane=2C but I do plan on keeping it fo r some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do you suggest=2C and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. R.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Prep for Assy.
Date: Dec 21, 2012
R.C Yikes! Is this a primer question? As a point of reference my D35 Bonanza from 1953 is unprimed and looks shin y as the day it first flew. Same with an early 1960's Cessna I owned. How l ong are you planning to keep yours again? I chose not to prime either of my RV's. Check back with me is 2065. Robin From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of R.C. Flyer Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 9:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Folks, I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the in terior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in So . Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated, so it only gets down to the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers, as well as Epoxy primers. T his is not going to be a "show" plane, but I do plan on keeping it for some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do you sugges t, and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. R.C. rsbooks.com> m> ________________________________ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Prep for Assy.
From: Charlie E <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 21, 2012
A friend near the FL coast once tested several coatings on 2024 samples & th en dipped them in salt water repeatedly over a period of many months. The sa mple that was just alodined fared as well as the high dollar epoxy. ( I doub t that you could detect the weight change on an alodined part.) FWIW, Charlie Sent from my iPhone On Dec 21, 2012, at 12:22 AM, "R.C. Flyer" wrote: > Folks, > I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the i nterior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in So . Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are hanging i n the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated, so it only gets down to the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers, as well as Epoxy primers. This i s not going to be a "show" plane, but I do plan on keeping it for some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do you suggest, and w here can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. > > R.C. > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Prep for Assy.
Date: Dec 20, 2012
Robin=2C No Primer? Not even inside the wings? I haven't seen a thread pertaining to this subject recently=2C so I'm not attempting to start a "fire" or anythi ng like that. I just want to build the plane. I built the wings and Tail se ction quite a while ago. Just finished a Tailwind Restoration and now want to complete my -6 (Kit #25315). So you're suggesting the plane can be assem bled "as is"? R.C. From: robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Date: Fri=2C 21 Dec 2012 05:37:20 +0000 R.C Yikes! Is this a primer question? As a point of reference my D35 Bonanza from 1953 is unprimed and looks shin y as the day it first flew. Same with an early 1960's Cessna I owned. How l ong are you planning to keep yours again? I chose not to prime either of my RV's. Check back with me is 2065. Robin From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of R.C. Flyer Sent: Thursday=2C December 20=2C 2012 9:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Folks=2C I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the in terior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in So . Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated=2C so it only gets down t o the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers=2C as well as Epoxy primer s. This is not going to be a "show" plane=2C but I do plan on keeping it fo r some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do you suggest=2C and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. R.C. ==============sts This Month --And Get So me AWESOME FREE Gifts!)ick ontdaeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.comhttp:/ /www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebu ilthelp.combution">http://www.matronics.com/contributionb>bsp=3B -Matt Dralle=2C List Admin.============= =V-List Email Forum ->:p>/o:p>tor?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navig ator?RV-List==============bsp=3B - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -:p>tp://forums.matronics.com=========== === No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com :p> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Prep for Assy.
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 21, 2012
Keep in mind that all of the Bauxite in dirt thruout the world is actually the fossilized remains of RVs built during the Pleistocene, so, without pri mer they don't last forever... -GV -----Original Message----- From: R.C. Flyer <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Thu, Dec 20, 2012 9:24 pm Subject: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Folks, I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the in terior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in So . Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated, so it only gets down to the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers, as well as Epoxy primers. T his is not going to be a "show" plane, but I do plan on keeping it for some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do you sugges t, and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. R.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robin Marks <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
Subject: Re: Prep for Assy.
Date: Dec 21, 2012
R.C. My reply re: primer was tongue in cheek and good natured but to answer your question correct, no primer. A friend that has build 9 RVs never primed an d I took my que from him after reviewing both my vintage Beechcraft and Ces sna. I recall the first time I looked inside my 53' and figured if it was g ood enough for Beechcraft... I am sure others will have differing opinions I just wanted to share our thought process. I am sure you will be fine no m atter which way you go. Happy Holidays, Robin Sent from the new iPad On Dec 20, 2012, at 10:16 PM, "R.C. Flyer" > wrote: Robin, No Primer? Not even inside the wings? I haven't seen a thread pertaining to this subject recently, so I'm not attempting to start a "fire" or anything like that. I just want to build the plane. I built the wings and Tail sect ion quite a while ago. Just finished a Tailwind Restoration and now want to complete my -6 (Kit #25315). So you're suggesting the plane can be assembl ed "as is"? R.C. ________________________________ From: robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com<mailto:robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com> Subject: RE: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2012 05:37:20 +0000 R.C Yikes! Is this a primer question? As a point of reference my D35 Bonanza from 1953 is unprimed and looks shin y as the day it first flew. Same with an early 1960's Cessna I owned. How l ong are you planning to keep yours again? I chose not to prime either of my RV's. Check back with me is 2065. Robin From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matron ics.com> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R.C. Flye r Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2012 9:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Folks, I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the in terior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in So . Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated, so it only gets down to the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers, as well as Epoxy primers. T his is not going to be a "show" plane, but I do plan on keeping it for some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do you sugges t, and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. R.C. ============= sts This Month -- And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) ick on t d aeroelectric.com<http://aeroelectric.com>">www.aeroelectric.com http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com .homebuilthelp.com<http://homebuilthelp.com>">www.homebuilthelp.com bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution b> bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin. ============= V-List Email Forum - > :p> /o:p> tor?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ============= bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - :p> tp://forums.matronics.com ============= ________________________________ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com/> :p> _blank>www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com> /" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com> =_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com> =_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ttp://forums.matronics.com rsbooks.com> m> ________________________________ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2012
From: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Prep for Assy.
Howdy R.C., What a lot of guys are doing is using rattle can self-etching primer on the faying surfaces and counting on the alclad to do it's job for the skins. You don't even have to do that much, but it may assuage your need to strive for perfection. Angle stock and thicker plate must be primed as it isn't alclad. Steel must be painted. Don't bother priming anything exterior as you'll just have to remove it to paint the plane. Sem can be found at auto paint supply stores. I've been using rustoleum self-etching primer from Lowe's or HD. It's got a nice dark green color and will work well enough. Epoxy is bulletproof and a pain in the butt, but if you feel ya gotta.... Robin has a pretty good point. Unless you are really young and leave the thing out in humid weather for years, you won't live long enough to see serious corrosion on the interior. My '63 C-150C, on the other hand, was delivered new to Santa Barbara where it sat out on the ramp in the salt fog for a lot of years and it finally died of cancer. The wing attach fittings looked like croissants! You're probably not going to want to sit your airplane outside more than you have to. It's really hard on the paint, avionics, and interior, even though we're not too worried about corrosion. These airplanes are small. You'll be able to find a hangar to share and keep the cost down. As to cold garages, I have a halogen (electric) heater hanging over my workbench that takes the edge off (and a window air conditioner for the worst days in summer). I've used those work lights you can get at Lowe's Depot for localized heating before. For any kind of painting, including priming, you'll want to get the temp up above 65 and keep it there until the paint is cured. Pax, Ed Holyoke RV-6A RV-6 Engine nearly complete, Yay! On 12/20/2012 9:37 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > > R.C > > Yikes! Is this a primer question? > > As a point of reference my D35 Bonanza from 1953 is unprimed and looks > shiny as the day it first flew. Same with an early 1960's Cessna I > owned. How long are you planning to keep yours again? I chose not to > prime either of my RV's. Check back with me is 2065. > > Robin > > *From:*owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *R.C. Flyer > *Sent:* Thursday, December 20, 2012 9:23 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV-List: Prep for Assy. > > Folks, > I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and > the interior. What has been determined to be the proper process to > use? I'm in So. Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the > garage. Temps are hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is > insulated, so it only gets down to the mid 50's in there. I've seen > "Eco" primers, as well as Epoxy primers. This is not going to be a > "show" plane, but I do plan on keeping it for some time. It may have > to live out in the elements at times. What do you suggest, and where > can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. > > R.C. > > * * > * * > ==============sts This Month --And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)ick > ontdaeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.comhttp://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.combution">http://www.matronics.com/contributionb> > bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.==============V-List > Email Forum -> :p> /o:p> > tor?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List==============bsp; > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -:p> tp://forums.matronics.com============= > * * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > :p> > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Prep for Assy.
Date: Dec 20, 2012
Thanks=2C Ed and Robin=3B I was concerned because I built the wings and the tail sections in '98=2C a nd only primed the spars of the Horizontal=2C Verticle=2C and Rudder. Didn' t do any of the Wings. this was a "Back Check" before I get too far along. R.C. Date: Thu=2C 20 Dec 2012 22:29:35 -0800 From: bicyclop(at)pacbell.net Subject: Re: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Howdy R.C.=2C What a lot of guys are doing is using rattle can self-etching primer on the faying surfaces and counting on the alclad to do it's job for the skins. Y ou don't even have to do that much=2C but it may assuage your need to striv e for perfection. Angle stock and thicker plate must be primed as it isn't alclad. Steel must be painted. Don't bother priming anything exterior as yo u'll just have to remove it to paint the plane. Sem can be found at auto pa int supply stores. I've been using rustoleum self-etching primer from Lowe' s or HD. It's got a nice dark green color and will work well enough. Epoxy is bulletproof and a pain in the butt=2C but if you feel ya gotta.... Robin has a pretty good point. Unless you are really young and leave the th ing out in humid weather for years=2C you won't live long enough to see ser ious corrosion on the interior. My '63 C-150C=2C on the other hand=2C was d elivered new to Santa Barbara where it sat out on the ramp in the salt fog for a lot of years and it finally died of cancer. The wing attach fittings looked like croissants! You're probably not going to want to sit your airpl ane outside more than you have to. It's really hard on the paint=2C avionic s=2C and interior=2C even though we're not too worried about corrosion. The se airplanes are small. You'll be able to find a hangar to share and keep t he cost down. As to cold garages=2C I have a halogen (electric) heater hanging over my wo rkbench that takes the edge off (and a window air conditioner for the worst days in summer). I've used those work lights you can get at Lowe's Depot f or localized heating before. For any kind of painting=2C including priming =2C you'll want to get the temp up above 65 and keep it there until the pai nt is cured. Pax=2C Ed Holyoke RV-6A RV-6 Engine nearly complete=2C Yay! On 12/20/2012 9:37 PM=2C Robin Marks wrote: R.C Yikes! Is this a primer question? As a point of reference my D35 Bonanza from 1953 is unprimed and looks shin y as the day it first flew. Same with an early 1960's Cessna I owned. How l ong are you planning to keep yours again? I chose not to prime either of my RV's. Check back with me is 2065. Robin From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of R.C. Flyer Sent: Thursday=2C December 20=2C 2012 9:23 PM Subject: RV-List: Prep for Assy. Folks=2C I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the in terior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in So . Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated=2C so it only gets down t o the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers=2C as well as Epoxy primer s. This is not going to be a "show" plane=2C but I do plan on keeping it fo r some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do you suggest=2C and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. R.C. ============== sts This Month -- And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) ick on t d aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com .homebuilthelp.com">ww w.homebuilthelp.com bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution b> bsp=3B -Matt Dralle=2C List Admin. ========= ===== V-List Email Forum - > :p> /o:p> tor?RV-List">http://www.ma tronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ============== bs p=3B - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - :p> tp://forums.matronics.com ==== ========== No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com :p> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2012
Subject: Re: Prep for Assy.
From: Dan Bergeron <dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com>
Hi Ed: Some folks prime and some don't - I won't go into the pros and cons - that's guaranteed to start a fight - I finished my -7A (a slow build) 3+ years ago - I primed everything with Sherwin - Williams Industrial Wash Primer - Semi Transparent Green (P60 G2) - I bought it at a Sherwin Williams store the caters to body shops and professional painters - I used an "el-cheapo" spray gun from Home Depot - my first efforts were a bit messy but only the bugs will ever see them - I eventually got pretty good at it - do not scrimp on respirators - get yourself a high quality, well fitting 3M or equivalent - keep all garage doors open and use a couple of box fans to keep the air flowing through - best would be to get yourself a fresh air respirator which draws fresh air into the mask through a flex tube from outside - the downside is they tend to be expensive - not sure the impact of ambient temps - I remember spraying in some pretty cold conditions here in Massachusetts - when finished I closed the doors, turned the heat on and got out of there - the parts dried just fine - hope this helps - good luck and enjoy the build Dan Bergeron RV-7A N307TB 376 hours since first flight on 8/4/09 On Fri, Dec 21, 2012 at 1:39 AM, R.C. Flyer wrote: > Thanks, Ed and Robin; > I was concerned because I built the wings and the tail sections in '98, > and only primed the spars of the Horizontal, Verticle, and Rudder. Didn't > do any of the Wings. this was a "Back Check" before I get too far along. > R.C. > ------------------------------ > Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2012 22:29:35 -0800 > From: bicyclop(at)pacbell.net > To: rv-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Prep for Assy. > > > Howdy R.C., > > What a lot of guys are doing is using rattle can self-etching primer on > the faying surfaces and counting on the alclad to do it's job for the > skins. You don't even have to do that much, but it may assuage your need to > strive for perfection. Angle stock and thicker plate must be primed as it > isn't alclad. Steel must be painted. Don't bother priming anything exterior > as you'll just have to remove it to paint the plane. Sem can be found at > auto paint supply stores. I've been using rustoleum self-etching primer > from Lowe's or HD. It's got a nice dark green color and will work well > enough. Epoxy is bulletproof and a pain in the butt, but if you feel ya > gotta.... > > Robin has a pretty good point. Unless you are really young and leave the > thing out in humid weather for years, you won't live long enough to see > serious corrosion on the interior. My '63 C-150C, on the other hand, was > delivered new to Santa Barbara where it sat out on the ramp in the salt fog > for a lot of years and it finally died of cancer. The wing attach fittings > looked like croissants! You're probably not going to want to sit your > airplane outside more than you have to. It's really hard on the paint, > avionics, and interior, even though we're not too worried about corrosion. > These airplanes are small. You'll be able to find a hangar to share and > keep the cost down. > > As to cold garages, I have a halogen (electric) heater hanging over my > workbench that takes the edge off (and a window air conditioner for the > worst days in summer). I've used those work lights you can get at Lowe's > Depot for localized heating before. For any kind of painting, including > priming, you'll want to get the temp up above 65 and keep it there until > the paint is cured. > > Pax, > > Ed Holyoke > RV-6A > RV-6 Engine nearly complete, Yay! > > On 12/20/2012 9:37 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > > R.C > > Yikes! Is this a primer question? > > As a point of reference my D35 Bonanza from 1953 is unprimed and looks > shiny as the day it first flew. Same with an early 1960's Cessna I owned. > How long are you planning to keep yours again? I chose not to prime either > of my RV's. Check back with me is 2065. > > > Robin > > > *From:* owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [ > mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] > *On Behalf Of *R.C. Flyer > *Sent:* Thursday, December 20, 2012 9:23 PM > *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV-List: Prep for Assy. > > > Folks, > I am building a -6 Fuselage (Slow build) and need to prime parts and the > interior. What has been determined to be the proper process to use? I'm in > So. Cal. and the build is being accomplished in the garage. Temps are > hanging in the low 40's @ night. The Garage is insulated, so it only gets > down to the mid 50's in there. I've seen "Eco" primers, as well as Epoxy > primers. This is not going to be a "show" plane, but I do plan on keeping > it for some time. It may have to live out in the elements at times. What do > you suggest, and where can it be acquired? Thanks in advance. > > R.C. > > * * > > * * > > ============== sts This Month -- And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) ick on > t d aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com http://www.buildersbooks.com"> > www.buildersbooks.com .homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com bution"> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution b> bsp; -Matt > Dralle, List Admin. ============== V-List Email Forum - > :p> /o:p> > tor?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List ============= > bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - :p> tp://forums.matronics.com============= > > * * > > ------------------------------ > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > :p> > > * > > * > > * > > _blank>www.aeroelectric.com > > /" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com > =_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com > =_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution > get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > ttp://forums.matronics.com > * > > * > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Panama Red" <panamared505(at)brier.net>
Subject: Re: Prep for Assy.
Date: Dec 21, 2012
Just do what ever you want. In the end one can justify either decision. However, if you ever sell the aircraft, it might be diffucult to convince a buyer that bare aluminum is OK. Parts of my aircraft are now 20 years old. Only sign of rust is on the steel parts and they were primed and painted. My rollbar is the biggest problem, if I had to do it again, I would have it powder coated. Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Oakes <dw1oakes(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Prime or not
Date: Dec 21, 2012
I just finished my RV7A and I alodined every part and then primed with epoxy then painted as needed. I found that if I painted some of the interior (in the front under panel) that the light reflected better and made under the panel easier to view. Just a thought I did a slow build fuselage also. Dave ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 26, 2012
Subject: how cold is too cold?
From: thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
I was thinking about flying to Grand canyon (kgcn) which is about 1.5 hrs from here. But I note that the overnight temperatures are brutal. Down to about 0 F these days. The FBO will let me drag the plane into a heated hangar in the morning to warm up, but will temps that low overnight do any damage? Cracked plexiglass comes to mind. Any one have experience with this sort of weather? Perhaps I should just wait a month or 2. -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: how cold is too cold?
Date: Dec 26, 2012
Hi Tom, I think you have one seriously babied airplane!! J This may be the first time I=99ve ever heard zero degrees described as =9Cbrutal=9D. J I=99d say go =93 the Grand Canyon is gorgeous all the time =93 even with a dusting of snow. Get started early and you can be back home the same day and not worry about the overnight. Being from Montana and then Minnesota =93 my airplanes sat in the hangar on many -30 F nights without damage. Sitting outside isn=99t much different than inside when it comes to sub-zero temps (assuming a typical hangar). My coldest flying temperature while in these areas was -10 F. Here in New Mexico, my RV doesn=99t normally see temps as cold as my former planes but the occasional sub-zero temp does occur. I=99ve not actually measured the inside hangar temp on nights like this but I=99d bet it isn=99t much different than the outside temp. As far as damage goes, I can imagine the plexi might revolt if there is a =9Chighly-stressed=9D area just waiting to crack but I don=99t think I=99ve ever heard of this happening. Not suggesting that I=99ve heard every possible story though. What=99s too cold? I doubt there is a sitting still limit (within reason). For flight; I dunno, the aspect that strikes me as the worst for the airplane is being unable to get oil/CHT=99s up to a reasonable temp at cruise. Slightly different topic - I am NOT a fan of cold starts. I know the book says they are ok but every car and airplane I=99ve owned complain and scream in pain every time I do it to them. I like to preheat (anything below about 35 degrees) and FBO=99s like to rape you for them (in my opinion) and/or heated hangar space. Jon http://jdfinley.com From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas sargent Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 9:39 AM Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? I was thinking about flying to Grand canyon (kgcn) which is about 1.5 hrs from here. But I note that the overnight temperatures are brutal. Down to about 0 F these days. The FBO will let me drag the plane into a heated hangar in the morning to warm up, but will temps that low overnight do any damage? Cracked plexiglass comes to mind. Any one have experience with this sort of weather? Perhaps I should just wait a month or 2. -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JohnF" <n29cx(at)ridgeviewtel.us>
Subject: Re: how cold is too cold?
Date: Dec 26, 2012
No, Tom, the cold won't hurt. I stored my RV6A in an unheated hangar and just preheated the engine before flying if it got to or below 35-F and no other problems. My now RV-12 is in the same situation, no plexi damage, and no engine harm if pre-heated a bit. John ----- Original Message ----- From: thomas sargent To: rv-list Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 9:39 AM Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? I was thinking about flying to Grand canyon (kgcn) which is about 1.5 hrs from here. But I note that the overnight temperatures are brutal. Down to about 0 F these days. The FBO will let me drag the plane into a heated hangar in the morning to warm up, but will temps that low overnight do any damage? Cracked plexiglass comes to mind. Any one have experience with this sort of weather? Perhaps I should just wait a month or 2. -- Tom Sargent ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: how cold is too cold?
From: Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 26, 2012
One thing I've seen is an EFIS that literally took some time to warm up. We h ad to run for about 15 min on the ground with the heater running before the s creen would display anything other than a white blob in the corner. OAT was a bout 15F and it was cold-soaked. In retrospect I'd have left a heater in the cabin. --Dave On Dec 26, 2012, at 11:35, "JohnF" wrote: > No, Tom, the cold won't hurt. I stored my RV6A in an unheated hangar and j ust preheated the engine before flying if it got to or below 35-F and no oth er problems. My now RV-12 is in the same situation, no plexi damage, and no engine harm if pre-heated a bit. > > John > ----- Original Message ----- > From: thomas sargent > To: rv-list > Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 9:39 AM > Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? > > I was thinking about flying to Grand canyon (kgcn) which is about 1.5 hrs f rom here. But I note that the overnight temperatures are brutal. Down to a bout 0 F these days. The FBO will let me drag the plane into a heated hanga r in the morning to warm up, but will temps that low overnight do any damage ? Cracked plexiglass comes to mind. Any one have experience with this sort o f weather? Perhaps I should just wait a month or 2. > > -- > Tom Sargent > > > href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com > href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com > href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ch ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: how cold is too cold?
Date: Dec 26, 2012
Along the same subject=3B at what point is it necessary to pre-heat the eng ine/oil before start-up? I have an O-320 and the plane sits out side @ HMT. Temps drop to high 30's to mid 40's. I'm running 15-50w oil=2C and have a strong starter/Battery. What's the preferred point at which one should warm things up before cranking? Thanks in advance. R.C. Subject: Re: RV-List: how cold is too cold? From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com Date: Wed=2C 26 Dec 2012 14:12:06 -0800 One thing I've seen is an EFIS that literally took some time to warm up. We had to run for about 15 min on the ground with the heater running before t he screen would display anything other than a white blob in the corner. OAT was about 15F and it was cold-soaked. In retrospect I'd have left a heater in the cabin. --Dave On Dec 26=2C 2012=2C at 11:35=2C "JohnF" wrote: No=2C Tom=2C the cold won't hurt. I stored my RV6A in an unheated hangar an d just preheated the engine before flying if it got to or below 35-F and no other problems. My now RV-12 is in the same situation=2C no plexi damage =2C and no engine harm if pre-heated a bit. John ----- Original Message ----- From: thomas sargent Sent: Wednesday=2C December 26=2C 2012 9:39 AM Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? I was thinking about flying to Grand canyon (kgcn) which is about 1.5 hrs f rom here. But I note that the overnight temperatures are brutal. Down to about 0 F these days. The FBO will let me drag the plane into a heated han gar in the morning to warm up=2C but will temps that low overnight do any d amage? Cracked plexiglass comes to mind. Any one have experience with this sort of weather? Perhaps I should just wait a month or 2. -- Tom Sargent href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jon Finley" <jon(at)finleyweb.net>
Subject: how cold is too cold?
Date: Dec 26, 2012
If you are a Mike Busch follower (I am), 32 degrees. Read Mike's full article here: http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182846-1.html?type=pf Hth, Jon http://jdfinley.com From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R.C. Flyer Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 5:14 PM Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? Along the same subject; at what point is it necessary to pre-heat the engine/oil before start-up? I have an O-320 and the plane sits out side @ HMT. Temps drop to high 30's to mid 40's. I'm running 15-50w oil, and have a strong starter/Battery. What's the preferred point at which one should warm things up before cranking? Thanks in advance. R.C. _____ Subject: Re: RV-List: how cold is too cold? From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 14:12:06 -0800 One thing I've seen is an EFIS that literally took some time to warm up. We had to run for about 15 min on the ground with the heater running before the screen would display anything other than a white blob in the corner. OAT was about 15F and it was cold-soaked. In retrospect I'd have left a heater in the cabin. --Dave On Dec 26, 2012, at 11:35, "JohnF" wrote: No, Tom, the cold won't hurt. I stored my RV6A in an unheated hangar and just preheated the engine before flying if it got to or below 35-F and no other problems. My now RV-12 is in the same situation, no plexi damage, and no engine harm if pre-heated a bit. John ----- Original Message ----- From: thomas sargent <mailto:sarg314(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 9:39 AM Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? I was thinking about flying to Grand canyon (kgcn) which is about 1.5 hrs from here. But I note that the overnight temperatures are brutal. Down to about 0 F these days. The FBO will let me drag the plane into a heated hangar in the morning to warm up, but will temps that low overnight do any damage? Cracked plexiglass comes to mind. Any one have experience with this sort of weather? Perhaps I should just wait a month or 2. -- Tom Sargent href="http://www.aeroelectric.com ">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com/> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com ">www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com/> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com ">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga tor?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com ">http://forums.matronics.com 3D=========================3 D=================== .com%22" target=_blank>www.aeroelectric.com uildersbooks.com%22" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com lp.com%22" target=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com bution%22" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution 3D=========================3 D=================== tor?RV-List%22" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List 3D=========================3 D=================== target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=========================3 D=================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
Subject: how cold is too cold?
Date: Dec 26, 2012
I've been using the Reiff oil sump heaters for 10 years (Vans and ACS both carry them). These are easy to install and work well. Anything below 40 degrees I plug them in. In a couple of hours the oil is up at 80 or so at engine start. Just don't leave them plugged in other than just before you plan on flying. The moisture driven off from the now warm oil will collect on the upper, cold part of the engine - like the cam. Carl From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jon Finley Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 7:26 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: how cold is too cold? If you are a Mike Busch follower (I am), 32 degrees. Read Mike's full article here: http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182846-1.html?type=pf Hth, Jon http://jdfinley.com From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R.C. Flyer Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 5:14 PM Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? Along the same subject; at what point is it necessary to pre-heat the engine/oil before start-up? I have an O-320 and the plane sits out side @ HMT. Temps drop to high 30's to mid 40's. I'm running 15-50w oil, and have a strong starter/Battery. What's the preferred point at which one should warm things up before cranking? Thanks in advance. R.C. _____ Subject: Re: RV-List: how cold is too cold? From: dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2012 14:12:06 -0800 One thing I've seen is an EFIS that literally took some time to warm up. We had to run for about 15 min on the ground with the heater running before the screen would display anything other than a white blob in the corner. OAT was about 15F and it was cold-soaked. In retrospect I'd have left a heater in the cabin. --Dave On Dec 26, 2012, at 11:35, "JohnF" wrote: No, Tom, the cold won't hurt. I stored my RV6A in an unheated hangar and just preheated the engine before flying if it got to or below 35-F and no other problems. My now RV-12 is in the same situation, no plexi damage, and no engine harm if pre-heated a bit. John ----- Original Message ----- From: thomas sargent <mailto:sarg314(at)gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2012 9:39 AM Subject: RV-List: how cold is too cold? I was thinking about flying to Grand canyon (kgcn) which is about 1.5 hrs from here. But I note that the overnight temperatures are brutal. Down to about 0 F these days. The FBO will let me drag the plane into a heated hangar in the morning to warm up, but will temps that low overnight do any damage? Cracked plexiglass comes to mind. Any one have experience with this sort of weather? Perhaps I should just wait a month or 2. -- Tom Sargent href="http://www.aeroelectric.com ">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com/> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com ">www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com/> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com ">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com/> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga tor?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com ">http://forums.matronics.com 3D=========================3 D=================== .com%22" target=_blank>www.aeroelectric.com uildersbooks.com%22" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com lp.com%22" target=_blank>www.homebuilthelp.com bution%22" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution 3D=========================3 D=================== tor?RV-List%22" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List 3D=========================3 D=================== target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com 3D=========================3 D=================== www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "R.C. Flyer" <smirdrv(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuse-Build
Date: Dec 26, 2012
After quite a few years=2C I'm once again building my -6 started in '98=3B currently building the Fuselage. I've spent the last few days going over th e manual and plans and have run into a "brain-dead" spot....can't figure ou t the Longeron's arc on Print #23. Plus my firewall doesn't have the "X" s upports shown on the RV-7 print/ just the diagonals (\ -/). Any builders/Te ch Counselors in the So. Cal. area near Elsinore? Any and all help is great ly appreciated. R.C. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2012
From: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
Happy Holidays:=0A=0ALooking for Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw that fits i n a Microstop. -The Pilot Bit (Guide Pin) has to be 0.089" Dia so the fin ished screw hole after countersinking can be TAPPED for the 4-40 screw thre ads !!!! -Where can I buy a 4-40 Countersink Bit with a guide pin of 0.08 9" Dia -or any suggestions as how to do this -?=0A=0AI took a normal -3 Rivet Countersink Bit and had a friend turn the Guide Pin down from 0.098" Dia to 0.089" Dia. -I tried this and it did NOT work as the cutting flut es of the Countersink Bit did NOT extend all the way to the reduced diamete r Guide Pin which is now 0.089" Dia. -Also tried a normal Debarring Tool Bit, but it "chattered" because of no Guide Pin to keep it centered on the 0.089" Dia hole - result very poor.=0A=0AAppreciate any suggestions !!!! -=0A=0AMANY THANKS,=0A=0AGarey Wittich - -RV-8A Builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
Date: Dec 29, 2012
Garey, I'm working from memory here, but I think that the countersink geometry between a rivet and a standard flat-head screw is different. The countersinks that I have for my microstop have the rivet geometry, so even if your mod to the countersink worked, the screw head probably would not seat properly in that countersink hole. (I think the difference in geometry is about 15 degrees, so it may not matter in your application.) You should be able to use a 'standard' non-aviation-geometry countersink. I regularly use one in a drill press to countersink thick aluminum. Cutter RPM is important to prevent chatter. -Jeff _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 08:59 Subject: RV-List: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw Happy Holidays: Looking for Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw that fits in a Microstop. The Pilot Bit (Guide Pin) has to be 0.089" Dia so the finished screw hole after countersinking can be TAPPED for the 4-40 screw threads !!!! Where can I buy a 4-40 Countersink Bit with a guide pin of 0.089" Dia or any suggestions as how to do this ? I took a normal -3 Rivet Countersink Bit and had a friend turn the Guide Pin down from 0.098" Dia to 0.089" Dia. I tried this and it did NOT work as the cutting flutes of the Countersink Bit did NOT extend all the way to the reduced diameter Guide Pin which is now 0.089" Dia. Also tried a normal Debarring Tool Bit, but it "chattered" because of no Guide Pin to keep it centered on the 0.089" Dia hole - result very poor. Appreciate any suggestions !!!! MANY THANKS, Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
From: vanremog(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 29, 2012
Just to confuse things further, countersinks for AN solid rivets are 100deg , for pop rivets they are 120deg and for screws they can be 82deg, 90deg or 100deg depending on whether they are either of the two types of SAE or met ric. -GV -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Luckey <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net> Sent: Sat, Dec 29, 2012 11:49 am Subject: RE: RV-List: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw Garey, I=99m working from memory here, but Ithink that the countersink geome try between a rivet and a standard flat-headscrew is different. The counte rsinks that I have for my microstop havethe rivet geometry, so even if your mod to the countersink worked, the screwhead probably would not seat prope rly in that countersink hole. (I thinkthe difference in geometry is about 15 degrees, so it may not matter in yourapplication.) You should be able to use a =98standard=99non-aviation-geometry countersink. I regularly use one in a drill pressto countersink thick alu minum. Cutter RPM is important to preventchatter. -Jeff From:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matron ics.com] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich Sent: Saturday, December 29, 201208:59 Subject: RV-List: Countersink Bitfor 4-40 Screw HappyHolidays: Looking for Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screwthat fits in a Microstop. The Pi lot Bit(Guide Pin) has to be 0.089" Dia so the finished screw hole aftercou ntersinking can be TAPPED for the 4-40 screw threads !!!! Wherecan I buy a 4-40 Countersink Bit with a guide pin of 0.089" Dia orany suggestions as how to do this ? I took a normal -3 Rivet Countersink Bitand had a friend turn the Guide Pin down from 0.098" Dia to 0.089"Dia. I tried this and it did NOT work as th e cutting flutes of theCountersink Bit did NOT extend all the way to the re duced diameter Guide Pinwhich is now 0.089" Dia. Also tried a normal Debar ring Tool Bit, butit "chattered" because of no Guide Pin to keep it centere d on the0.089" Dia hole - result very poor. Appreciate any suggestions !!!! MANY THANKS, Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/28/12 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 29, 2012
Subject: Re: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
From: Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com>
Maybe you can shorten the pilot on the #40 countersink so it's almost not there -- just enough to do the job. Then after countersinking drill additional depth at 0.089 and tap for the screw. Or, use #6 screw instead. 4's aren't very durable. -- Larry Bowen Larry(at)BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 11:59 AM, Garey Wittich wrote: > Happy Holidays: > > Looking for Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw that fits in a Microstop. *The > Pilot Bit (Guide Pin) has to be 0.089" Dia so the finished screw hole after > countersinking can be TAPPED for the 4-40 screw threads !!!! *Where can > I buy a 4-40 Countersink Bit with a guide pin of 0.089" Dia or any > suggestions as how to do this ? > > I took a normal -3 Rivet Countersink Bit and had a friend turn the Guide > Pin down from 0.098" Dia to 0.089" Dia. I tried this and it did NOT work > as the cutting flutes of the Countersink Bit did NOT extend all the way to > the reduced diameter Guide Pin which is now 0.089" Dia. Also tried a > normal Debarring Tool Bit, but it "chattered" because of no Guide Pin to > keep it centered on the 0.089" Dia hole - result very poor. > > Appreciate any suggestions !!!! > > MANY THANKS, > > Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Luckey" <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net>
Subject: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
Date: Dec 29, 2012
GV - thanks for filling-in the numbers. -Jeff _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of vanremog(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 12:08 Subject: Re: RV-List: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw Just to confuse things further, countersinks for AN solid rivets are 100deg, for pop rivets they are 120deg and for screws they can be 82deg, 90deg or 100deg depending on whether they are either of the two types of SAE or metric. -GV -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Luckey <JLuckey(at)pacbell.net> Sent: Sat, Dec 29, 2012 11:49 am Subject: RE: RV-List: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw Garey, I'm working from memory here, but I think that the countersink geometry between a rivet and a standard flat-head screw is different. The countersinks that I have for my microstop have the rivet geometry, so even if your mod to the countersink worked, the screw head probably would not seat properly in that countersink hole. (I think the difference in geometry is about 15 degrees, so it may not matter in your application.) You should be able to use a 'standard' non-aviation-geometry countersink. I regularly use one in a drill press to countersink thick aluminum. Cutter RPM is important to prevent chatter. -Jeff _____ From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Garey Wittich Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 08:59 Subject: RV-List: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw Happy Holidays: Looking for Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw that fits in a Microstop. The Pilot Bit (Guide Pin) has to be 0.089" Dia so the finished screw hole after countersinking can be TAPPED for the 4-40 screw threads !!!! Where can I buy a 4-40 Countersink Bit with a guide pin of 0.089" Dia or any suggestions as how to do this ? I took a normal -3 Rivet Countersink Bit and had a friend turn the Guide Pin down from 0.098" Dia to 0.089" Dia. I tried this and it did NOT work as the cutting flutes of the Countersink Bit did NOT extend all the way to the reduced diameter Guide Pin which is now 0.089" Dia. Also tried a normal Debarring Tool Bit, but it "chattered" because of no Guide Pin to keep it centered on the 0.089" Dia hole - result very poor. Appreciate any suggestions !!!! MANY THANKS, Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder www.aeroelectric.com www.buildersbooks.com www.homebuilthelp.com http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List http://forums.matronics.com No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/28/12 _blank">www.aeroelectric.com " target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp://forums.matronics.com No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Warren Brecheisen" <n146wb(at)cfu.net>
Subject: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
Date: Dec 29, 2012
I ran into this a couple of times on my -6. I simply used a pilotless countersink with the correct angle. I used a hand hole deburring tool that accepts tools with the =BC-20 thread (same as microstops). I went slowly and carefully, checking the result often and making corrections as I went. I did not use any 4-40 screws on structural components. If you are using them on your wings tips, my method is probably too labor intensive to complete in a reasonable amount of time. I used 6-32=92s on the tips. Warren ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
Date: Dec 29, 2012
I used 4-40s' on the tips (the kit came with the countersink) but I forgot who supplied the kit... But it was for wingtip install... However, I agree, use 6-32's instead... Sheldon ----- Original Message ----- From: Warren Brecheisen To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 5:44 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw I ran into this a couple of times on my -6. I simply used a pilotless countersink with the correct angle. I used a hand hole deburring tool that accepts tools with the =BC-20 thread (same as microstops). I went slowly and carefully, checking the result often and making corrections as I went. I did not use any 4-40 screws on structural components. If you are using them on your wings tips, my method is probably too labor intensive to complete in a reasonable amount of time. I used 6-32's on the tips. Warren ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "sheldon barrett" <sheldonb(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw
Date: Dec 29, 2012
I used 4-40s' on the tips (the kit came with the countersink) but I forgot who supplied the kit... But it was for wingtip install... However, I agree, use 6-32's instead... Sheldon ----- Original Message ----- From: Warren Brecheisen To: rv-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2012 5:44 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Countersink Bit for 4-40 Screw I ran into this a couple of times on my -6. I simply used a pilotless countersink with the correct angle. I used a hand hole deburring tool that accepts tools with the =BC-20 thread (same as microstops). I went slowly and carefully, checking the result often and making corrections as I went. I did not use any 4-40 screws on structural components. If you are using them on your wings tips, my method is probably too labor intensive to complete in a reasonable amount of time. I used 6-32's on the tips. Warren ________________________________________________________________________________


August 02, 2012 - December 29, 2012

RV-Archive.digest.vol-vp