RV-Archive.digest.vol-vu
June 29, 2014 - March 16, 2015
-----Original Message-----
| From: | Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Sent: Thu, Jun 26, 2014 8:17 am
| Subject: | Re: 70 psi compression |
Well 88 may well be a mistake, but that's what the A&P said. He seemed a b
it baffled. I have my own compression tester now. I will do it myself nex
t time.
On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 8:11 PM, Linn Walters wrote
:
On 6/25/2014 9:44 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
Just a wild question since no one has asked it...How can one get
an 88 psig aircraft bleed down type compression reading with 80
psig supplied air?
You can't if you use the differential gauge properly. I
can only surmise that 88 was a typo.
Linn
-----Original Message-----
From: William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
To: rv-list
Sent: Wed, Jun 25, 2014 4:26 pm
Subject: RE: RV-List: 70 psi compression
An 88 means something is wrong with the equipment or the
methodology. The max is 80 with the standardized orific
e.
| From: | owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-r |
v-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thomas Sargent
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 7:11 PM
To: rv-list
Subject: Re: RV-List: 70 psi compression
Thanks for all the good information.
Reading the Lycoming Service instructions, I should
note that cyl#1 showed 88psi. I was doing the test
as part of the annual inspection. Last year they
were all in the 72 - 78 range I think. What does an
anomalously high reading indicate? Off hand I would h
ave guessed that the higher the better, but apparently n
ot. Lyc. says more than 15psi difference is trouble.
I think I need to repeat this whole test soon after
actually flying the plane.
I'm still finishing the annual, I haven't flown it
for a couple weeks.
--
Tom Sargent
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 70 psi compression |
| From: | Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I repeated the measurement myself this afternoon after running the engine
until cyl. head temp hit 400 deg. (not hard when it's 105 outside). I got
all cylinders between 73 and 76.
The guy who did the first, obviously wrong,measurement is definitely an old
hand, I don't know what went wrong - I wasn't watching - but something
certainly did..
On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 3:28 PM, Charlie England
wrote:
>
> Even if you buy into the idea that a compression test is required during
> the condition inspection, it doesn't mean you have to give it any weight in
> your appraisal of the engine's health. :-) I suspect that Bill was saying
> that more recent research has shown the traditional compression test to be
> a very poor indicator of a cylinder's condition (unless, of course, it's
> very very low and you can hear a 'breeze' blowing out the exhaust or
> intake...).
>
> I've gotten a 75+ reading on a cylinder that had a broken ring, and a
> low-70s reading followed the next year by a high-70s reading on the same
> cylinder, when checked 'cold'.
>
> If you haven't done it already, I'd suggest reading everything you can
> find by Mike Busch (writes for Sport Aviation, in addition to seminars,
> webinars, etc).
>
> Charlie
> (If your mechanic insists that he got an 88/80 reading, then in the
> immortal words of Monty Python, 'Run away! Run away!' (from that mechanic).
>
>
> On 6/26/2014 2:26 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
>>
>> Not really. Until Appendix D of Part 43 gets re-written, compression
>> tests are mandatory for both certified and experimental aircraft. Item (d)
>> (3) of the appendix requires compression test, and AFAIK most all
>> experimental operating limitations require condition inspect that meets
>> requirements of Appendix D as a minimum. Yes, borescope is good addition to
>> checking cylinder health, but FAA does not recognize it as a complete
>> substitute.
>> IF one gains the experience to get a cylinder to TDC there will be no
>> force on the prop. But allowing it to go very many degrees either side of
>> TDC generates a dangerous force in the prop. I position prop near TDC, dial
>> up about 20psi while adjusting prop for minimum to no force at the prop,
>> then bring the pressure on up to 80. I also make sure to hold prop such
>> that if it got away from me it would hurt nothing. Especially keep rest of
>> body besides hand outside the prop arc.I don't even pick up compression
>> tester until I have prop in safe position.
>>
>> On 6/26/2014 8:27 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
>>
>>> Be careful. Two-man job to do safely... 80 psi into one jug can be
>>> deadly if the prop gets away from you and your noggin is in the way.
>>>
>>> IIRC, the trend in the "literature" is away from compression testing
>>> altogether and toward boroscopy as a means of assessing engine health.
>>> --kind of like internal like medicine... the old standards of screening
>>> are giving way to the $$ passing-of-scopes $$ into various body cavities.
>>>
>>> -Stormy
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 10:46 AM, Thomas Sargent >> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Well 88 may well be a mistake, but that's what the A&P said. He
>>> seemed a bit baffled. I have my own compression tester now. I
>>> will do it myself next time.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 8:11 PM, Linn Walters
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> On 6/25/2014 9:44 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just a wild question since no one has asked it...How can one
>>>> get an 88 psig aircraft bleed down type compression reading
>>>> with 80 psig supplied air?
>>>>
>>> You can't if you use the differential gauge properly. I can
>>> only surmise that 88 was a typo.
>>> Linn
>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: William Greenley <wgreenley(at)gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> To: rv-list
>>>>
>>>> Sent: Wed, Jun 25, 2014 4:26 pm
>>>> Subject: RE: RV-List: 70 psi compression
>>>>
>>>> An 88 means something is wrong with the equipment or the
>>>> methodology. The max is 80 with the standardized orifice.
>>>> *From:*owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>>
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>> ] *On Behalf Of
>>>> *Thomas Sargent
>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 25, 2014 7:11 PM
>>>> *To:* rv-list
>>>> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: 70 psi compression
>>>> Thanks for all the good information.
>>>>
>>>> Reading the Lycoming Service instructions, I should note that
>>>> cyl#1 showed 88psi. I was doing the test as part of the
>>>> annual inspection. Last year they were all in the 72 - 78
>>>> range I think. What does an anomalously high reading
>>>> indicate? Off hand I would have guessed that the higher the
>>>> better, but apparently not. Lyc. says more than 15psi
>>>> difference is trouble.
>>>>
>>>> I think I need to repeat this whole test soon after actually
>>>> flying the plane.
>>>>
>>>> I'm still finishing the annual, I haven't flown it for a
>>>> couple weeks.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Baggage Door Assembly and Lift Strut Install |
Continuing the construction of the new, new baggage door for the RV-8, I worked
on the hinge at the top and riveted the whole thing together. I am very happy
to report that the fit of the door is nearly perfect! Frankly, it is pretty
amazing that something made out of bent sheet metal could fit that well. But
alas, I'm not complaining. I spent a fair amount of time and a couple of tries
on the top hinge to get the bottom edge of the door to line up perfectly with
the bottom of the top fuselage skin. The door comes down and lines up perfectly
along both the front and back edges as well as along the bottom as previously
described. I'm so happy I redid this baggage door no less than three times
to finally get a perfect one! Such is that story of this project it seems...
The stock front baggage door on the RV-8 doesn't come with any means of holding
it open other than your arm. Since I'd already experienced what happens when
the latch pins are in the "latched" position and the door suddenly slams shut
(dents and scratches), I really wanted to find a nice strut of some kind that
would hold the door open, yet be relatively easy to install/replace/use.
Some browsing in the McMaster-Carr on-line catalog turned up what turn out to be
the absolute *perfect* part for the job. The strut unit is made for tool box
lids and has pre-installed mounts on each end that work perfectly on the RV-8
baggage door with no modifications whatsoever. Incredible, really. The best part
is that in operation, the strut will securely hold the door open AND closed!
Its amazing actually! At about 2" from closed the geometry of the system has
nearly zero pressure open/closed and then at the last 1" or so, slightly pulls
the door down. Note that the latch pins are still needed to hold the door securely
closed. Conversely, after about 3" open, there is enough push in the spring
to gently open the door all the way and then hold it open very nicely. If
you have an RV-8 and want a baggage door strut, look no further. This is the
just ticket:
McMaster-Carr Part Number:11615A14
Here is the on-line web page for the part:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#11615A14
At $53.00 (circa 2014) its a little pricey, but its stainless steel, a spring -
not hydraulic, and did I mention - works PERFECTLY on the RV-8 front baggage
door! Buy one now!
Next up is mounting the nylon blocks for the latch pins. Who knew this baggage
door would turn into such a project!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Assembly and Lift Strut Install |
| From: | Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Nice work Matt. Very well done!
Dale Ensing
On Jun 30, 2014, at 12:06 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Continuing the construction of the new, new baggage door for the RV-8, I worked
on the hinge at the top and riveted the whole thing together. I am very happy
to report that the fit of the door is nearly perfect! Frankly, it is pretty
amazing that something made out of bent sheet metal could fit that well. But
alas, I'm not complaining. I spent a fair amount of time and a couple of tries
on the top hinge to get the bottom edge of the door to line up perfectly
with the bottom of the top fuselage skin. The door comes down and lines up perfectly
along both the front and back edges as well as along the bottom as previously
described. I'm so happy I redid this baggage door no less than three
times to finally get a perfect one! Such is that story of this project it seems...
>
> The stock front baggage door on the RV-8 doesn't come with any means of holding
it open other than your arm. Since I'd already experienced what happens when
the latch pins are in the "latched" position and the door suddenly slams shut
(dents and scratches), I really wanted to find a nice strut of some kind that
would hold the door open, yet be relatively easy to install/replace/use.
>
> Some browsing in the McMaster-Carr on-line catalog turned up what turn out to
be the absolute *perfect* part for the job. The strut unit is made for tool box
lids and has pre-installed mounts on each end that work perfectly on the RV-8
baggage door with no modifications whatsoever. Incredible, really. The best
part is that in operation, the strut will securely hold the door open AND closed!
Its amazing actually! At about 2" from closed the geometry of the system
has nearly zero pressure open/closed and then at the last 1" or so, slightly pulls
the door down. Note that the latch pins are still needed to hold the door
securely closed. Conversely, after about 3" open, there is enough push in the
spring to gently open the door all the way and then hold it open very nicely.
If you have an RV-8 and want a baggage door strut, look no further. This is the
just ticket:
>
> McMaster-Carr Part Number:11615A14
>
> Here is the on-line web page for the part:
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#11615A14
>
> At $53.00 (circa 2014) its a little pricey, but its stainless steel, a spring
- not hydraulic, and did I mention - works PERFECTLY on the RV-8 front baggage
door! Buy one now!
>
> Next up is mounting the nylon blocks for the latch pins. Who knew this baggage
door would turn into such a project!
>
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(1).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(2).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(3).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(4).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(5).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(6).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(7).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(8).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(9).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(10).jpg>
> <2014.06.29 - RV-8 - Rebuild - Front Baggage Door - Assembly & Lift Strut Installation
(11).jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | running tubing for lift reserve indicator. |
I have had this for a while, had the probe and gauge installed for a while.
I am trying to run the tubbing while down for annual. I had planned to use
a 3/4 in pvc pipe to put the two tubes thru, cant get it into the wing. tu
bes to flexible to thread thru the holes. Any Ideas? This is an RV6A.
charlie Heathco
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tion is active.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: running tubing for lift reserve indicator. |
You might try to fix a step drill to the end of the PVC and rotate the
PVC slowly so the step drill catches in the hole and lifts the PVC up.
Make sure that the step drill is firmly attached .... getting that
sucker out of the wing might be a real exercise.
You might also try to fix a tapered piece of wood dowel in the end of
the PVC ..... anything to lift the PVC up enough to slide through.
Linn
On 7/7/2014 10:54 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
> I have had this for a while, had the probe and gauge installed for a
> while. I am trying to run the tubbing while down for annual. I had
> planned to use a 3/4 in pvc pipe to put the two tubes thru, cant get
> it into the wing. tubes to flexible to thread thru the holes. Any
> Ideas? This is an RV6A.
> charlie Heathco
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Lift reserve indicator |
I have run the tubing now for my Kelly Meiste unit, and have a tight fit wh
ere thr tubes hook to the probe. I have read that starting point is 50 deg,
but kelly's says start at 60 deg. I have an RV6a, anyone on here that has
put one on?
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts |
I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
>To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
>Dear Van's,
>
>I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder coated
in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While stripping, I have
noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder coating. Perhaps the most
disturbing was the high build up rust under parts in certain areas, primarily
the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached pictures). This will eventually
cause the powder to flake off.
>
>The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts! On every
single steel part that I have stripped, there is no surface preparation such
as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will be undergoing
these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best possible protection
from future rust break through. Additionally, the adhesion of the powder coat
is significantly better with these additional surface preparations. The cost
differential is minimal, since high-end coaters usually do these steps by default.
>
>Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will simply choose
to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder coating. This
will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for the reasons outlined
above.
>
>FYI.
>
>-
>Matt Dralle
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
Go back and look at the archives. I warned about this very issue when Van'
s first began this "new" process and no one was interested. The only prope
r way to protect steel parts from corrosion by painting (not plating) is b
y blasting the surface rust free, applying a well bonded (clean with tooth)
, tight (epoxy) sacrificial (chromate) layer and, if you like, a well bonde
d (within the required time to crosslink) a good top coat. This has been we
ll established. Powder coating is decorative, not protective.
-GV
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sun, Jul 13, 2014 11:31 am
Subject: RV-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
>To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
>Dear Van's,
>
>I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder co
ated
in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While stripping, I h
ave
noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder coating. Perhaps the m
ost
disturbing was the high build up rust under parts in certain areas, primari
ly
the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached pictures). This will event
ually
cause the powder to flake off.
>
>The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts!
On
every single steel part that I have stripped, there is no surface preparati
on
such as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will be undergo
ing
these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best possible protecti
on
from future rust break through. Additionally, the adhesion of the powder c
oat
is significantly better with these additional surface preparations. The co
st
differential is minimal, since high-end coaters usually do these steps by
default.
>
>Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will simp
ly
choose to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder coating.
This
will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for the reasons out
lined
above.
>
>FYI.
>
>-
>Matt Dralle
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mo
de
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts |
I had the same problem back in 2002 and 2003 with the canopy frame for my RV-6,
which at that time was the only powder coated part I received. after that I ordered
the engine mount bare and painted it myself. Sound like not much has changed
with Van's powder coating supplier.
Harry Crosby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dralle, Matt" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 11:27:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
>To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
>Dear Van's,
>
>I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder coated
in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While stripping, I have
noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder coating. Perhaps the most
disturbing was the high build up rust under parts in certain areas, primarily
the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached pictures). This will eventually
cause the powder to flake off.
>
>The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts! On every
single steel part that I have stripped, there is no surface preparation such
as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will be undergoing these
steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best possible protection from
future rust break through. Additionally, the adhesion of the powder coat is
significantly better with these additional surface preparations. The cost differential
is minimal, since high-end coaters usually do these steps by default.
>
>Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will simply choose
to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder coating. This
will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for the reasons outlined
above.
>
>FYI.
>
>-
>Matt Dralle
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts |
Same here. When I was working on my canopy frame to make it fit, the
powder coating cracked and flaked off showing bare metal with a little rust.
Made me not a big believer in powder coating, but maybe its OK with the
right prep. When I hear people talking about the greatness of powder coating
it always brings back memories! This was in about 2003 because my 7A has
been flying since 2004. To be honest I scraped off the loose coating,
touched it up with a spray can, and have pretty much forgotten about it. Wow!
Has it been 10 years?
Thanks, Matt for bringing this to Van's attention. I enjoy following your
building progress.
Dan Hopper
N766DH
In a message dated 7/13/2014 7:03:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
HCRV6(at)comcast.net writes:
I had the same problem back in 2002 and 2003 with the canopy frame for my
RV-6, which at that time was the only powder coated part I received. after
that I ordered the engine mount bare and painted it myself. Sound like
not much has changed with Van's powder coating supplier.
Harry Crosby
____________________________________
From: "Dralle, Matt" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2014 11:27:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
I sent this email to Van's today. Something to watch out for...
>Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2014 11:23:02 -0700
>To: support(at)vansaircraft.com
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>Subject: Rusty RV-8 Steel Parts
>
>
>Dear Van's,
>
>I am stripping all of the steel parts on my RV-8 to have them re-powder
coated in a textured black to match the rest of my interior. While
stripping, I have noticed a couple of things regarding factory powder coating.
Perhaps the most disturbing was the high build up rust under parts in certain
areas, primarily the ones made from the 4130 plate (see attached pictures).
This will eventually cause the powder to flake off.
>
>The other issue is the distinct lack of surface prep on all steel parts!
On every single steel part that I have stripped, there is no surface
preparation such as scuffing and/or phosphating. All of my steel parts will be
undergoing these steps prior to powder coating for the absolute best
possible protection from future rust break through. Additionally, the adhesion
of the powder coat is significantly better with these additional surface
preparations. The cost differential is minimal, since high-end coaters usually
do these steps by default.
>
>Many builders faced with changing the color of their steel parts will
simply choose to paint or powder coat over the top of the factory powder
coating. This will eventually lead to a less-than-satisfactory result for the
reasons outlined above.
>
>FYI.
>
>-
>Matt Dralle
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 180+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer
Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robin Hou <rmhou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Brass Insert F63-PT3-25 |
Hi List,=0A=0AThe brass inserts that come with my kit seem small. It went i
nto my tube and won't stay in the brass elbow for the b-nut to secure it in
place.-=0A=0AAdvise?=0A=0ARobin=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Insert F63-PT3-25 |
Well, hard to tell from the picture ..... but the ferrule should fit a
little snug in the tube .... if it falls out of the tube when you hold
the tube upside down .... either the ferrule is too small or the tube
too large. The sleeve should just fit over the tube. Ace has the
ferrule .... and more tube .... in the aircraft isle, of course!!!
Linn
On 7/25/2014 2:12 PM, Robin Hou wrote:
> Hi List,
>
> The brass inserts that come with my kit seem small. It went into my
> tube and won't stay in the brass elbow for the b-nut to secure it in
> place.
>
> Advise?
>
> Robin
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Brass Insert F63-PT3-25 |
That is the wrong tube. Look for the =BC=94 tubing.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Hou
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2014 2:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brass Insert F63-PT3-25
Hi List,
The brass inserts that come with my kit seem small. It went into my tube
and
won't stay in the brass elbow for the b-nut to secure it in place.
Advise?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Insert F63-PT3-25 |
Hi Robin,
If you get the tubing from Vans, it will be .060" wall thickness and the
inserts will fit it. The tubing you get locally is usually thinner wall.
Dan Hopper
RV7A N766DH
In a message dated 7/25/2014 4:13:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net writes:
That is the wrong tube. Look for the =C2=BC=9D tubing.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Hou
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2014 2:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brass Insert F63-PT3-25
Hi List,
The brass inserts that come with my kit seem small. It went into my tube
and won't stay in the brass elbow for the b-nut to secure it in place.
Advise?
Robin
========================
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========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven Eberhart <steve(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | KEVV - Evansville Indiana EAA Chapter 21 Wings and Wheels this |
weekend
Our Fourth Annual Wings and Wheels event is Saturday, August 16, 2014
We have had over 200 Cruisers at each of our first two Wings and
Wheels This year should continue building on our great start.
Cruise-In or Fly-In and help us set a new attendance record this year
10:00 AM till 3:00 PM Central time.
Tri-State Aero (KEVV), Ramp and Parking Lot.
Here are some pics of previous Wings and wheels. Our 2014 Wings
and Wheels event will be at Tri-State Aero, Evansville, IN August
16th, 2014.
http://www.eaa21.org/WingsandWheels.jpg
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka1Sg7tmULc>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka1Sg7tmULc
http://www.eaa21.org/coppermine1/thumbnails.php?album=2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Johannsen tip tanks for the RV6A |
Anyone (else) flying with a set of these? I have them installed and plumbed in
as gravity feed (with check-valves) to the main tanks. I know that the HW guys
recommend check-valve-pumps to keep the fuel out there and pump it all in at
once - I don't remember if they have gauges built in to their tanks - which
might be helpful if you only pump a partial
Trying to determine what others have seen as the usable capacity and if there have
been any issues with feeding the tips to the mains causing them to dump fuel
out the main vents. I have my main vents cut a little shallower than the vents
built in to the tip-tanks. I have only used them a couple of times - and
only once did I take off with a full fuel load. On a recent flight when I actually
used them (full fuel load), I put more fuel in during the refuel evolution
than my fuel computer said that I flowed - so I'm thinking I might have dumped
some due to over-pressurization. How are your main vents relative to the
tip vents?
I need to level the plane, block the outlets, and fill them up to see anyway -
but I thought I would try to get some feedback...
Any experiences will be appreciated!
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Johannsen tip tanks for the RV6A |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I have no experience with the tip tanks. But, maybe the capacity of your
vent line is less than the expansion volume of your new fuel capacity. Add
some more mileage to you vent system.
2 cents.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Ralph E. Capen
wrote:
>
> Anyone (else) flying with a set of these? I have them installed and
> plumbed in as gravity feed (with check-valves) to the main tanks. I know
> that the HW guys recommend check-valve-pumps to keep the fuel out there and
> pump it all in at once - I don't remember if they have gauges built in to
> their tanks - which might be helpful if you only pump a partial
>
> Trying to determine what others have seen as the usable capacity and if
> there have been any issues with feeding the tips to the mains causing them
> to dump fuel out the main vents. I have my main vents cut a little
> shallower than the vents built in to the tip-tanks. I have only used them
> a couple of times - and only once did I take off with a full fuel load. On
> a recent flight when I actually used them (full fuel load), I put more fuel
> in during the refuel evolution than my fuel computer said that I flowed -
> so I'm thinking I might have dumped some due to over-pressurization. How
> are your main vents relative to the tip vents?
>
> I need to level the plane, block the outlets, and fill them up to see
> anyway - but I thought I would try to get some feedback...
>
> Any experiences will be appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Johannsen tip tanks for the RV6A |
Interesting thought - thanks!
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen
Sent: Aug 12, 2014 8:18 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Johannsen tip tanks for the RV6A
I have no experience with the tip tanks. But, maybe the capacity of your vent line
is less than the expansion volume of your new fuel capacity. Add some more
mileage to you vent system.
2 cents.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
Anyone (else) flying with a set of these? I have them installed and plumbed in
as gravity feed (with check-valves) to the main tanks. I know that the HW guys
recommend check-valve-pumps to keep the fuel out there and pump it all in at
once - I don't remember if they have gauges built in to their tanks - which
might be helpful if you only pump a partial
Trying to determine what others have seen as the usable capacity and if there have
been any issues with feeding the tips to the mains causing them to dump fuel
out the main vents. I have my main vents cut a little shallower than the vents
built in to the tip-tanks. I have only used them a couple of times - and
only once did I take off with a full fuel load. On a recent flight when I actually
used them (full fuel load), I put more fuel in during the refuel evolution
than my fuel computer said that I flowed - so I'm thinking I might have dumped
some due to over-pressurization. How are your main vents relative to the
tip vents?
I need to level the plane, block the outlets, and fill them up to see anyway -
but I thought I would try to get some feedback...
Any experiences will be appreciated!
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
==========
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AWell it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on
my ancient Navaid Devices wing leveler has burned out. Nava
id Devices went TU in 2008 and their proprietary motor (Micr
omo 1624L012S692) is no longer available. Does anyone know
if these motors are available elsewhere in someone's stash?
I heard that one of the Navaid people (Horace, I think) wa
s the last to do the repairs before they closed their door
s.=0A=0AIs the right solution to go with the Trio head and
keep the Navaid S1 servo or replace the whole enchilada?=0A=0A
Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most
helpful.=0A=0A-Thx=0A=0AGV=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Doran <dorante(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
I have two NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a servo that
I removed from my RV-8A. I replaced it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopil
ot.
I have been planning to put them on EBAY, but haven=92t gotten around to
it.
Are you interested?
Thanks,
Tom
On Aug 18, 2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
> Well it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient Nava
id Devices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU in 2008
and their proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no longer availabl
e. Does anyone know if these motors are available elsewhere in someone'
s stash? I heard that one of the Navaid people (Horace, I think) was th
e last to do the repairs before they closed their doors.
>
> Is the right solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid S1
servo or replace the whole enchilada?
>
> Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most helpful.
>
> -Thx
>
> GV
>
>
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>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
>
____________________________________________________________
Fast, Secure, NetZero 4G Mobile Broadband. Try it.
http://www.netzero.net/?refcd=NZINTISP0512T4GOUT2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
GV,
The same thing happened to me on the way to OSH two years ago. I bought a T
rio head while there and installed it after I got home, using the old Navai
d servo. The Trio works OK and has some features that were not available in
the Navaid, but it has an annoying tendency that I have never been able to
trim out of hunting back and forth around the GPS course. If I could have
obtained a new motor for the Navaid I would have gone that way and been com
pletely satisfied (until it died again). The Trio folks insist that the pro
blem is because the servo is mounted under the passenger seat, just like yo
urs, and that they highly recommend mounting the servo in the wing tip. Bot
tom line is you will probably be happy if you go with a Trio and use the ol
d servo like I did, and just as happy if you find a replacement motor.
Harry Crosby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Doran" <dorante(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
I have two NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a servo that I r
emoved from my RV-8A. I replaced it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopilot.
I have been planning to put them on EBAY, but haven=99t gotten around
to it.
Are you interested?
Thanks,
Tom
On Aug 18, 2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
Well it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient Navaid Dev
ices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU in 2008 and their
proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no longer available. Does anyon
e know if these motors are available elsewhere in someone's stash? I heard
that one of the Navaid people (Horace, I think) was the last to do the repa
irs before they closed their doors.
Is the right solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid S1 servo
or replace the whole enchilada?
Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most helpful.
-Thx
GV
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.co
m/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
____________________________________________________________
===
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0ATom-=0A =0AI maybe interested if I strike out with MIcromo.
I'm still pursuing the replacement motor until they say
no. It's the Scotsman in me that hates to throw away ha
rdware without attempting to fix it first.=0A =0AAt that point
it becomes a "throwing good money after bad" situation and
like Rocketman (Harry Crosby) wisely says "it'll only be good
until next time".=0A =0AI will wait a week or so before ch
oosing a path.=0A =0A-GV=0A =0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom
: Thomas Doran =0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Mon, Aug 18, 2014 4:00 pm=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Na
vaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AI have two NAVAID control
heads (one I got as a spare) and a servo that I removed
from my RV-8A. I replaced it with a Dynon Skyview and A
utopilot.=0A=0A=0AI have been planning to put them on EBAY, bu
t haven=99t gotten around to it.=0A=0A=0AAre you interested?
=0A=0A=0AThanks, =0A=0A=0A=0A=0ATom=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Aug 18,
2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:=0A=0A=0AWell it has f
inally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient Navaid
Devices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU
in 2008 and their proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is
no longer available. Does anyone know if these motors ar
e available elsewhere in someone's stash? I heard that one
of the Navaid people (Horace, I think) was the last to do
the repairs before they closed their doors.=0A =0AIs the right
solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid S
1 servo or replace the whole enchilada?=0A =0AComments from th
ose who have gone thru this would be most helpful.=0A =0A-Th
x=0A =0AGV=0A=0A=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http
://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A___________________________________
===========================
===========================
===========================
-Matt Dralle, Li
===========================
===========================
=====0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
Harry:
I did the same as you. I can dampen out the hunting by adding some
aileron trim bias to one side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as it
will go to one side.) The load on the control helps with hunting.
Gary:
There is a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078
I recommend reading post #5. It says almost any motor can be used as a
replacement but stated that the Micromo was the longest lasting. There
is a link to a less expensive item on eBay.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C900+ Flying Hours Pennsylvania=2C USA
On 08-18-2014=2C 7:24 PM=2C HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> GV=2C
>
> The same thing happened to me on the way to OSH two years ago. I
> bought a Trio head while there and installed it after I got home=2C
> using the old Navaid servo. The Trio works OK and has some features
> that were not available in the Navaid=2C but it has an annoying tendency
> that I have never been able to trim out of hunting back and forth
> around the GPS course. If I could have obtained a new motor for the
> Navaid I would have gone that way and been completely satisfied (until
> it died again). The Trio folks insist that the problem is because the
> servo is mounted under the passenger seat=2C just like yours=2C and that
> they highly recommend mounting the servo in the wing tip. Bottom line
> is you will probably be happy if you go with a Trio and use the old
> servo like I did=2C and just as happy if you find a replacement motor.
>
> Harry Crosby
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Thomas Doran" <dorante(at)juno.com>
> *To: *"RV-List"
> *Sent: *Monday=2C August 18=2C 2014 3:58:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
>
>
> I have two NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a servo
> that I removed from my RV-8A. I replaced it with a Dynon Skyview and
> Autopilot.
>
> I have been planning to put them on EBAY=2C but haven=99t gotten ar
ound to it.
>
> Are you interested?
>
> Thanks=2C
>
>
> Tom
>
>
> On Aug 18=2C 2014=2C at 12:56 PM=2C vanremog(at)aol.com
> wrote:
>
> Well it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient
> Navaid Devices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went
> TU in 2008 and their proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is
> no longer available. Does anyone know if these motors are
> available elsewhere in someone's stash? I heard that one of the
> Navaid people (Horace=2C I think) was the last to do the repairs
> before they closed their doors.
>
> Is the right solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid
> S1 servo or replace the whole enchilada?
>
> Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most helpful.
>
> -Thx
>
> GV
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.c
om/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
>
>
> *
>
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
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===========
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AGary-=0A =0AYeah, I read that thread and that post in par
ticular and am looking into it. Once again I prefer to
restore the AP-1 to it's original condition so my preferenc
e is to get the same motor. I am not an expert in e
lectric motors so am underqualified to select a suitable equiv
alent. For example with my limited knowledge I would have
preferred a brushless DC motor whereas this one is brush typ
e, so I'm already unclear as to what the original selection
criteria were.=0A =0A-GV=0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Gary
A. Sobek =0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Mon, Aug 18, 2014 4:50 pm=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Na
vaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A=0A=0A =0A
Harry:=0A I did the same as you. I can dampen ou
t the hunting by adding some aileron trim bias to o
ne side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as it
will go to one side.) The load on the control helps wit
h hunting.=0A =0A Gary:=0A There i
s a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.=0A htt
p://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078=0A =0A
I recommend reading post #5. It says almost any mo
tor can be used as a replacement but stated that th
e Micromo was the longest lasting. There is a link
to a less expensive item on eBay.=0A =0A =0A
Gary A. Sobek =0A "My Sanity" RV-6 N
157GS O-320 Hartzell, =0A 2,900+ Flying Hour
s Pennsylvania, USA =0A =0A =0A
=0A =0A =0AOn 08-18-2014, 7:24 PM,
HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:=0A =0A =0A
=0A =0AGV,=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AThe same thing happened to m
e on the way to OSH two years ago.
I bought a Trio head while there and installed it after
I got home, using the old Navaid servo.
The Trio works OK and has some featu
res that were not available in the Navaid, but
it has an annoying tendency that I have never been
able to trim out of hunting back and
forth around the GPS course. If I
could have obtained a new motor for the Navaid I would hav
e gone that way and been completely sat
isfied (until it died again). The Trio
folks insist that the problem is because the
servo is mounted under the passenger seat, just like
yours, and that they highly recommend mou
nting the servo in the wing tip. Bot
tom line is you will probably be happy if you go with
a Trio and use the old servo like I di
d, and just as happy if you find a
replacement motor.=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AHarry Crosby=0A
=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0A =0AFrom:
"Thomas Doran" =0A To: "
RV-List" =0A Sent: Monda
y, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM=0A Subject:
Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A I have two NAVAID
control heads (one I got as a spare) and a
servo that I removed from my RV-8A. I replaced
it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopilot.
=0A=0A =0A
=0AI have been planning to put them on EBAY, bu
t haven=99t gotten around to it
.=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0AAre you interested? =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A
Thanks, =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0ATom=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AOn Aug 18, 2014,
at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:=0A
=0A =0A
=0AWell
it has finally happened again. The gyro mo
tor on my a
ncient Navaid Devices wing leveler has burned
out. Navaid Devices went TU
in 2008 and their
proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no
longer available. D
oes anyone know if these
motors are available elsewhere in someone's
stash? I heard
that one of the Navaid people
(Horace, I think) was the last to do the
repairs befo
re they closed their doors.=0A
=0A =0A =0AIs
the right solution to go with the Trio head
and keep the Navaid S1 servo
or replace the whole
enchilada?=0A =0A
=0A =0AComments from th
ose who have gone thru this would
be most helpful.=0A
=0A =0A
=0A-Thx=0A =0A =0A
=0AGV=0A
=0A=0A=0A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.c
om=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A
=0A ____________________
________________________________________=0A
=0A
=0A =0A
=0A =0A=0A=0At="_blank
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blan
k">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A
=0A=0A=0Aom/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Li
st=0As.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Aom/contribution">http://www.matronics.
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
- List Contribution Web Site -=0A
-Matt
===========================
===========0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AFirst, a couple of shots of the original motor Micromo 16
24L012S692 044.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ASo far the closest items t
o the original motor that I can track down easily are the
following and my known criteria are:=0A=0A12VDC=0A15,000 to 20,000
rpm =0A1620 to 1625 size (dia/bodyL)=0Adouble shaft 1.5mm dia
or greater (to allow use of the original flywheels)12VDC=0A
=0A =0Ahttp://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/MHK1624.htm=0A =0Ahttp://www.hollywoo
dfoundry.com/MHK1620.htm=0A =0A -GV=0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AF
rom: Gary A. Sobek =0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Mon, Aug 18, 2014 4:50 pm=0ASubject: Re: RV
-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A=0A=0A =0A
Harry:=0A I did the same as you. I can da
mpen out the hunting by adding some aileron trim bias
to one side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as
it will go to one side.) The load on the control hel
ps with hunting.=0A =0A Gary:=0A T
here is a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.=0A
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078=0A
=0A I recommend reading post #5. It says almost an
y motor can be used as a replacement but stated tha
t the Micromo was the longest lasting. There is a l
ink to a less expensive item on eBay.=0A =0A
=0A Gary A. Sobek =0A "My Sanity" RV
-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, =0A 2,900+ Flying
Hours Pennsylvania, USA =0A =0A =0A
=0A =0A =0AOn 08-18-2014, 7:24 PM,
HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:=0A =0A =0A
=0A =0AGV,=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AThe same thing happened to
me on the way to OSH two years ago.
I bought a Trio head while there and installed it after
I got home, using the old Navaid servo.
The Trio works OK and has some featu
res that were not available in the Navaid, but
it has an annoying tendency that I have never been
able to trim out of hunting back and
forth around the GPS course. If I
could have obtained a new motor for the Navaid I would hav
e gone that way and been completely sat
isfied (until it died again). The Trio
folks insist that the problem is because the
servo is mounted under the passenger seat, just like
yours, and that they highly recommend mou
nting the servo in the wing tip. Bot
tom line is you will probably be happy if you go with
a Trio and use the old servo like I di
d, and just as happy if you find a
replacement motor.=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AHarry Crosby=0A
=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0A =0AFrom:
"Thomas Doran" =0A To: "
RV-List" =0A Sent: Monda
y, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM=0A Subject:
Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A I have two NAVAID
control heads (one I got as a spare) and a
servo that I removed from my RV-8A. I replaced
it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopilot.
=0A=0A =0A
=0AI have been planning to put them on EBAY, bu
t haven=99t gotten around to it
.=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0AAre you interested? =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A
Thanks, =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0ATom=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AOn Aug 18, 2014,
at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:=0A
=0A =0A
=0AWell
it has finally happened again. The gyro mo
tor on my a
ncient Navaid Devices wing leveler has burned
out. Navaid Devices went TU
in 2008 and their
proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no
longer available. D
oes anyone know if these
motors are available elsewhere in someone's
stash? I heard
that one of the Navaid people
(Horace, I think) was the last to do the
repairs befo
re they closed their doors.=0A
=0A =0A =0AIs
the right solution to go with the Trio head
and keep the Navaid S1 servo
or replace the whole
enchilada?=0A =0A
=0A =0AComments from th
ose who have gone thru this would
be most helpful.=0A
=0A =0A
=0A-Thx=0A =0A =0A
=0AGV=0A
=0A=0A=0A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.c
om=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A
=0A ____________________
________________________________________=0A
=0A
=0A =0A
=0A =0A=0A=0At="_blank
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blan
k">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A
=0A=0A=0Aom/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Li
st=0As.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Aom/contribution">http://www.matronics.
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
- List Contribution Web Site -=0A
-Matt
===========================
===========0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Swayze <swayze(at)europa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
I happen to have an extra Tru-Trak servo that I won't be using (I
have 3 of them, don't need this one). It's a model # DSB-B, part #
8100-006. It's brand new, in the box, never used. I bought two of
them for my autopilot installation, but bought a 3rd one later that
has vertical contol for the pitch axis, so this one is extra. I'll
let it go for about half the price of a new one. If this will fit for
your application, let me know privately. Email me: swayze "at"
europa.com and I'll send you photos and answer all your
questions. I hope this can help you out!
At 09:56 AM 8/18/2014, you wrote:
>Well it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient
>Navaid Devices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU
>in 2008 and their proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no
>longer available. Does anyone know if these motors are available
>elsewhere in someone's stash? I heard that one of the Navaid people
>(Horace, I think) was the last to do the repairs before they closed
>their doors.
>
>Is the right solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid
>S1 servo or replace the whole enchilada?
>
>Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most helpful.
>
>-Thx
>
>GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0ABruce-=0A =0AMy servo is fine. I need the AP head gyro
motor. Thx anyway.=0A =0A-GV=0A =0A =0A-----Original Message--
---=0AFrom: Bruce Swayze <swayze(at)europa.com>=0ATo: rv-list <rv-list@ma
tronics.com>=0ASent: Mon, Aug 18, 2014 7:29 pm=0ASubject: RV-List:
Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A=0A=0A--> RV-List message posted
by: Bruce Swayze =0A=0AI happen to have an ex
tra Tru-Trak servo that I won't be using (I =0Ahave 3 of
them, don't need this one). It's a model # DSB-B, part #
=0A8100-006. It's brand new, in the box, never used. I bough
t two of =0Athem for my autopilot installation, but bought a
3rd one later that =0Ahas vertical contol for the pitch a
xis, so this one is extra. I'll =0Alet it go for about h
alf the price of a new one. If this will fit for =0Ayour
application, let me know privately. Email me: swayze "at"
=0Aeuropa.com and I'll send you photos and answer all your
=0Aquestions. I hope this can help you out!=0A=0A=0AAt 09:56
AM 8/18/2014, you wrote:=0A>Well it has finally happened again.
The gyro motor on my ancient =0A>Navaid Devices wing levele
r has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU =0A>in 2008 and
their proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no =0A>longer
available. Does anyone know if these motors are available =0A
>elsewhere in someone's stash? I heard that one of the Na
vaid people =0A>(Horace, I think) was the last to do the r
epairs before they closed =0A>their doors.=0A>=0A>Is the right s
olution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid =0A>S
1 servo or replace the whole enchilada?=0A>=0A>Comments from tho
se who have gone thru this would be most helpful.=0A>=0A>-Thx=0A
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
======================0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | All you wanted to know about DC motors |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AAnd afraid to ask...=0A=0Ahttp://www.delta-line.com/data/download/Porte
scap_Technology.pdf=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
Wow, thanks Gary I will try that right away.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1200 hours (as of last flight.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 4:48:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
Harry:
I did the same as you. I can dampen out the hunting by adding some aileron
trim bias to one side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as it will go to on
e side.) The load on the control helps with hunting.
Gary:
There is a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078
I recommend reading post #5. It says almost any motor can be used as a repl
acement but stated that the Micromo was the longest lasting. There is a lin
k to a less expensive item on eBay.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,900+ Flying Hours Pennsylvania, USA
On 08-18-2014, 7:24 PM, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
GV,
The same thing happened to me on the way to OSH two years ago. I bought a T
rio head while there and installed it after I got home, using the old Navai
d servo. The Trio works OK and has some features that were not available in
the Navaid, but it has an annoying tendency that I have never been able to
trim out of hunting back and forth around the GPS course. If I could have
obtained a new motor for the Navaid I would have gone that way and been com
pletely satisfied (until it died again). The Trio folks insist that the pro
blem is because the servo is mounted under the passenger seat, just like yo
urs, and that they highly recommend mounting the servo in the wing tip. Bot
tom line is you will probably be happy if you go with a Trio and use the ol
d servo like I did, and just as happy if you find a replacement motor.
Harry Crosby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Doran" <dorante(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
I have two NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a servo that I r
emoved from my RV-8A. I replaced it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopilot.
I have been planning to put them on EBAY, but haven=99t gotten around
to it.
Are you interested?
Thanks,
Tom
On Aug 18, 2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
Well it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient Navaid Dev
ices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU in 2008 and their
proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no longer available. Does anyon
e know if these motors are available elsewhere in someone's stash? I heard
that one of the Navaid people (Horace, I think) was the last to do the repa
irs before they closed their doors.
Is the right solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid S1 servo
or replace the whole enchilada?
Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most helpful.
-Thx
GV
href= "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" > http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV-List href= "http://forums.matronics.com/" > http://foru
ms.matronics.com href= "http://www.matronics.com/contribution" > http://w
ww.matronics.com/contribution
____________________________________________________________
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
om/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
s.com">http://forums.matronics.com
om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: All you wanted to know about DC motors |
| From: | Doug Gray <dgra1233(at)bigpond.net.au> |
GV - thanks, excellent info.
Good luck getting the Navaid ap working. Keep us posted on your decision, I v
alue your contributions to the RV community.
Doug Gray
RV6 flying since mid 2010
Sent from my iPhone
> On 19 Aug 2014, at 12:34 pm, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> And afraid to ask...
>
> http://www.delta-line.com/data/download/Portescap_Technology.pdf
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: All you wanted to know about DC motors |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AThank you and I will.=0A =0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFr
om: Doug Gray =0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Tue, Aug 19, 2014 5:19 pm=0ASubject: Re: RV-List
: All you wanted to know about DC motors=0A=0A=0A=0AGV - tha
nks, excellent info.=0AGood luck getting the Navaid ap working.
Keep us posted on your decision, I value your contributions
to the RV community.=0ADoug Gray=0ARV6 flying since mid 2010=0A=0A
Sent from my iPhone=0A=0AOn 19 Aug 2014, at 12:34 pm, vanrem
og@aol.com wrote:=0A=0A=0A=0AAnd afraid to ask...=0A =0Ahttp://www.del
ta-line.com/data/download/Portescap_Technology.pdf=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AThis is exactly what I do but I usually end up just t
rimming into the wind.=0A =0A-GV=0A =0A =0A-----Original Message--
---=0AFrom: Gary A. Sobek <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com>=0ATo: rv-list <rv-
list(at)matronics.com>=0ASent: Mon, Aug 18, 2014 4:50 pm=0ASubject: R
e: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A=0A=0A
=0A Harry:=0A I did the same as you. I
can dampen out the hunting by adding some aileron tri
m bias to one side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as
it will go to one side.) The load on the cont
rol helps with hunting.=0A =0A Gary:=0A
There is a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.=0A
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078=0A
=0A I recommend reading post #5. It says al
most any motor can be used as a replacement but sta
ted that the Micromo was the longest lasting. There i
s a link to a less expensive item on eBay.=0A =0A
=0A Gary A. Sobek =0A "My San
ity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, =0A 2,900+
Flying Hours Pennsylvania, USA =0A =0A
=0A =0A =0A =0AOn 08-18-2014, 7:24 PM,
HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:=0A =0A =0A
=0A =0AGV,=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AThe same thing happe
ned to me on the way to OSH two years
ago. I bought a Trio head while there and installed it
after I got home, using the old Nava
id servo. The Trio works OK and has s
ome features that were not available in the Navaid, but
it has an annoying tendency that I have nev
er been able to trim out of hunting b
ack and forth around the GPS course. If
I could have obtained a new motor for the Navaid I w
ould have gone that way and been comple
tely satisfied (until it died again).
The Trio folks insist that the problem is because the
servo is mounted under the passenger seat, ju
st like yours, and that they highly rec
ommend mounting the servo in the wing t
ip. Bottom line is you will probably be happy if you go
with a Trio and use the old servo
like I did, and just as happy if you
find a replacement motor.=0A =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0AHarry Crosby=0A
=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A =0AFrom:
"Thomas Doran" =0A
Monday, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM=0A Sub
ject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A I have two
NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a
servo that I removed from my RV-8A. I repla
ced it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopil
ot. =0A=0A =0A
=0AI have been planning to put them on EBAY
, but haven=99t gotten around t
o it.=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0AAre you interested? =0A
=0A=0A =0A
=0AThanks, =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0ATom=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AOn Aug 18,
2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:=0A
=0A =0A
=0AWell
it has finally happened again. The gyr
o motor on
my ancient Navaid Devices wing leveler has burned
out. Navaid Devices wen
t TU in 2008 and their
proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no
longer available.
Does anyone know if these
motors are available elsewhere in someone's
stash? I hear
d that one of the Navaid people
(Horace, I think) was the last to do
the repairs b
efore they closed their doors.=0A
=0A =0A =0A
Is the right solution to go with the Trio head
and keep the Navaid S1 servo
or replace the whole
enchilada?=0A =0A
=0A =0AComments from th
ose who have gone thru this would
be most helpful.=0A
=0A =0A
=0A-Thx=0A =0A =0A
=0AGV=0A
=0A=0A=0A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.c
om=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A
=0A ____________________
________________________________________=0A
=0A
=0A =0A
=0A =0A=0A=0At="_blank
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blan
k">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A
=0A=0A=0Aom/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Li
st=0As.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Aom/contribution">http://www.matronics.
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
- List Contribution Web Site -=0A
-Matt
===========================
===========0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Harry,
I also have an old Navaid control head sitting around that I would let go
for a song (like a good show tune or something). But I actually recommend
going with the Trio. In my experience it has been very useful and works
much better than the Navaid ever did. I do get some minimal hunting while
on GPS flight plan (servo is in wing at aileron bellcrank), but when using
GPS course as guidance (a ground course as opposed to trying to stay dead
center of the flight plan) it is rock solid and there is no hunting at
all. I find that is the way I usually fly anyway, as I am always making
deviations for airspace or traffic or what-not anyway and never bother to
fly all the way back to the flight plan path.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 12:04 PM, wrote:
> Wow, thanks Gary I will try that right away.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6 N16CX, 1200 hours (as of last flight.)
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com>
> *To: *"RV-List"
> *Sent: *Monday, August 18, 2014 4:48:06 PM
>
> *Subject: *Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
>
> Harry:
> I did the same as you. I can dampen out the hunting by adding some
> aileron trim bias to one side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as it wi
ll
> go to one side.) The load on the control helps with hunting.
>
> Gary:
> There is a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078
>
> I recommend reading post #5. It says almost any motor can be used as a
> replacement but stated that the Micromo was the longest lasting. There is
a
> link to a less expensive item on eBay.
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 2,900+ Flying Hours Pennsylvania, USA
>
>
> On 08-18-2014, 7:24 PM, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
> GV,
>
> The same thing happened to me on the way to OSH two years ago. I bought
> a Trio head while there and installed it after I got home, using the old
> Navaid servo. The Trio works OK and has some features that were not
> available in the Navaid, but it has an annoying tendency that I have neve
r
> been able to trim out of hunting back and forth around the GPS course. I
f
> I could have obtained a new motor for the Navaid I would have gone that w
ay
> and been completely satisfied (until it died again). The Trio folks insi
st
> that the problem is because the servo is mounted under the passenger seat
,
> just like yours, and that they highly recommend mounting the servo in the
> wing tip. Bottom line is you will probably be happy if you go with a Tri
o
> and use the old servo like I did, and just as happy if you find a
> replacement motor.
>
> Harry Crosby
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Thomas Doran" <dorante(at)juno.com> <dorante(at)juno.com>
> *To: *"RV-List"
> *Sent: *Monday, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM
> *Subject: *Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
>
>
> I have two NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a servo that
I
> removed from my RV-8A. I replaced it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopilot.
>
> I have been planning to put them on EBAY, but haven=99t gotten aro
und to
> it.
>
> Are you interested?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Tom
>
>
> On Aug 18, 2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Well it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient Navaid
> Devices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU in 2008 and
> their proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no longer available.
> Does anyone know if these motors are available elsewhere in someone's
> stash? I heard that one of the Navaid people (Horace, I think) was the
> last to do the repairs before they closed their doors.
>
> Is the right solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid S1
> servo or replace the whole enchilada?
>
> Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most helpful.
>
> -Thx
>
> GV
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com/" >http
://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution" >http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
>
>
> *
>
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> om/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> s.com <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Lists.com>">http://forums.ma
tronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
===========
ics.com/Navigator?RV-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
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>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unsuscribe. Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 06/03/14 |
| From: | Tom McLoed <tmcloed68(at)gmail.com> |
On Jun 4, 2014 3:24 AM, "RV-List Digest Server"
wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 14-06-03&Archive=RV
>
> Text Version:
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 14-06-03&Archive=RV
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Tue 06/03/14: 0
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
When doing my annual this year I checked back on the previous log entries I
made for my other annual inspections. I was amazed to discover that a
couple years ago I did not make the standard entry about "i gave
inspected... it complies with..." etc. I just wrote "completed annual
inspection".
Is this really a mistake? Do you need the standard verbiage?
If it is a mistake, how do I make it right?
I also keep a separate, unofficial document for each inspection. It's a
long check list of everything I did along with with notes, my signature and
certificate number. Probably has no standing with the FAA, but it exists.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: log book errro |
On 8/22/2014 11:22 AM, Thomas Sargent wrote:
> When doing my annual this year I checked back on the previous log
> entries I made for my other annual inspections. I was amazed to
> discover that a couple years ago I did not make the standard entry
> about "i gave inspected... it complies with..." etc. I just wrote
> "completed annual inspection".
>
> Is this really a mistake? Do you need the standard verbiage?
If there was ever a problem ..... the standard verbiage would be
better. And remember it's not an 'annual', but a 'conditional inspection'
>
> If it is a mistake, how do I make it right?
Use the standard verbiage next time.
>
> I also keep a separate, unofficial document for each inspection. It's
> a long check list of everything I did along with with notes, my
> signature and certificate number. Probably has no standing with the
> FAA, but it exists.
Actually, this is what my FSDO recommended as long as it's kept with the
logbooks .... especially since my 'conditional inspection' occurs over
the year (mostly). Anything not covered during the year is covered in
Jan ... when my entry in the logbook occurs. It's amazing what you do
throughout the year making improvements/mods and doing normal maintenance.
Linn
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: log book errro |
| From: | Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
Perhaps I should clarify that the separate document I keep is everything I
did during the inspection - what I inspected and what the results were.
It's not a record of oil changes or repairs. Those are in the log book.
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: log book errro |
Conditional Inspection? Where in FAA Orders / Operating Limitations
does it call out Conditional other than for a sale of an aircraft?
FAA Order 8130.2G Change 1
<http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgOrders.nsf/0/7a09d53f
b0d5325586257885004d9e1b/$FILE/8130.2G_CHG1.pdf>
calls out a Condition Inspection. If you look at your Operating
Limitations=2C it will also.
> No person must operate this aircraft unless within the preceding 12
> calendar months it has had a *condition inspection* performed in
> accordance with the scope and detail of 14 CFR part 43=2C appendix D=2C o
r
> other FAA-approved programs=2C and was found to be in a condition for
> safe operation. As part of the condition inspection=2C cockpit
> instruments must be appropriately marked and needed placards installed
> in accordance with 14 CFR =C2=A7 91.9. In addition=2C system-essential
> controls must be in good condition=2C securely mounted=2C clearly marked
=2C
> and provide for ease of operation. This inspection will be recorded in
> the aircraft logbook and maintenance records.
> *Condition inspections* must be recorded in the aircraft logbook and
> maintenance records showing the following=2C or a similarly worded=2C
> statement: =9CI certify that this aircraft has been inspected on [i
nsert
> date] in accordance with the scope and detail of 14 CFR part 43=2C
> appendix D=2C and was found to be in a condition for safe operation.
=9D
> The entry will include the aircraft=99s total time-in-service (cycl
es if
> appropriate)=2C and the name=2C signature=2C certificate number=2C and ty
pe of
> certificate held by the person performing the inspection.
On 08-22-2014=2C 11:40 AM=2C Linn Walters wrote:
> On 8/22/2014 11:22 AM=2C Thomas Sargent wrote:
>> When doing my annual this year I checked back on the previous log
>> entries I made for my other annual inspections. I was amazed to
>> discover that a couple years ago I did not make the standard entry
>> about "i gave inspected... it complies with..." etc. I just wrote
>> "completed annual inspection".
>>
>> Is this really a mistake? Do you need the standard verbiage?
> If there was ever a problem ..... the standard verbiage would be
> better. And remember it's not an 'annual'=2C but a '*conditional
> inspection*'
>>
>> If it is a mistake=2C how do I make it right?
> Use the standard verbiage next time.
>>
>> I also keep a separate=2C unofficial document for each inspection.
>> It's a long check list of everything I did along with with notes=2C my
>> signature and certificate number. Probably has no standing with the
>> FAA=2C but it exists.
> Actually=2C this is what my FSDO recommended as long as it's kept with
> the logbooks .... especially since my 'conditional inspection' occurs
> over the year (mostly). Anything not covered during the year is
> covered in Jan ... when my entry in the logbook occurs. It's amazing
> what you do throughout the year making improvements/mods and doing
> normal maintenance.
> Linn
>
>>
>> --
>> Tom Sargent
>> *
>> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: log book errro |
The easiest fix....do a computer generated labeln sticker with the
correct language quoted directly from your operating limitations.
Place the sticker right over the incorrect entry and sign it.
Experimentals do not get an annual inspection, just a condition
inspection that occurs annually.
KellyM
A&P/IA
On 8/22/2014 8:22 AM, Thomas Sargent wrote:
> When doing my annual this year I checked back on the previous log
> entries I made for my other annual inspections. I was amazed to
> discover that a couple years ago I did not make the standard entry
> about "i gave inspected... it complies with..." etc. I just wrote
> "completed annual inspection".
>
> Is this really a mistake? Do you need the standard verbiage?
>
> If it is a mistake, how do I make it right?
>
> I also keep a separate, unofficial document for each inspection. It's
> a long check list of everything I did along with with notes, my
> signature and certificate number. Probably has no standing with the
> FAA, but it exists.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: log book errro |
Sorry ... typing faster than the brain works. Thanks for the heads up.
Linn
On 8/22/2014 12:10 PM, Gary A. Sobek wrote:
> Conditional Inspection? Where in FAA Orders / Operating Limitations
> does it call out Conditional other than for a sale of an aircraft?
>
> FAA Order 8130.2G Change 1
> <http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgOrders.nsf/0/7a09d53fb0d5325586257885004d9e1b/$FILE/8130.2G_CHG1.pdf>
> calls out a Condition Inspection. If you look at your Operating
> Limitations, it will also.
>
>> No person must operate this aircraft unless within the preceding 12
>> calendar months it has had a *condition inspection* performed in
>> accordance with the scope and detail of 14 CFR part 43, appendix D,
>> or other FAA-approved programs, and was found to be in a condition
>> for safe operation. As part of the condition inspection, cockpit
>> instruments must be appropriately marked and needed placards
>> installed in accordance with 14 CFR 91.9. In addition,
>> system-essential controls must be in good condition, securely
>> mounted, clearly marked, and provide for ease of operation. This
>> inspection will be recorded in the aircraft logbook and maintenance
>> records.
>
>> *Condition inspections* must be recorded in the aircraft logbook and
>> maintenance records showing the following, or a similarly worded,
>> statement: I certify that this aircraft has been inspected on
>> [insert date] in accordance with the scope and detail of 14 CFR part
>> 43, appendix D, and was found to be in a condition for safe
>> operation. The entry will include the aircrafts total
>> time-in-service (cycles if appropriate), and the name, signature,
>> certificate number, and type of certificate held by the person
>> performing the inspection.
>
>
> On 08-22-2014, 11:40 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
>> On 8/22/2014 11:22 AM, Thomas Sargent wrote:
>>> When doing my annual this year I checked back on the previous log
>>> entries I made for my other annual inspections. I was amazed to
>>> discover that a couple years ago I did not make the standard entry
>>> about "i gave inspected... it complies with..." etc. I just wrote
>>> "completed annual inspection".
>>>
>>> Is this really a mistake? Do you need the standard verbiage?
>> If there was ever a problem ..... the standard verbiage would be
>> better. And remember it's not an 'annual', but a '*conditional
>> inspection*'
>>>
>>> If it is a mistake, how do I make it right?
>> Use the standard verbiage next time.
>>>
>>> I also keep a separate, unofficial document for each inspection.
>>> It's a long check list of everything I did along with with notes,
>>> my signature and certificate number. Probably has no standing with
>>> the FAA, but it exists.
>> Actually, this is what my FSDO recommended as long as it's kept with
>> the logbooks .... especially since my 'conditional inspection' occurs
>> over the year (mostly). Anything not covered during the year is
>> covered in Jan ... when my entry in the logbook occurs. It's amazing
>> what you do throughout the year making improvements/mods and doing
>> normal maintenance.
>> Linn
>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tom Sargent
>>> *
>>> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
Hi Dave,
Interesting that you still get some hunting about the GPS course even with
your servo at the aileron bellcrank. Anyway, I agree that this is not a ser
ious drawback for the Trio and that the additional capabilities of the Trio
are definitely worth the minor annoyance it causes. The only time it reall
y bugs me is if I have one or more planes in loose formation trying to stay
with me questioning why I'm wandering about the course.
Harry Crosby
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Leonard" <wdleonard(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2014 12:50:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
Hi Harry,
I also have an old Navaid control head sitting around that I would let go f
or a song (like a good show tune or something). But I actually recommend go
ing with the Trio. In my experience it has been very useful and works much
better than the Navaid ever did. I do get some minimal hunting while on GPS
flight plan (servo is in wing at aileron bellcrank), but when using GPS co
urse as guidance (a ground course as opposed to trying to stay dead center
of the flight plan) it is rock solid and there is no hunting at all. I find
that is the way I usually fly anyway, as I am always making deviations for
airspace or traffic or what-not anyway and never bother to fly all the way
back to the flight plan path.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Aug 19, 2014 at 12:04 PM, < HCRV6(at)comcast.net > wrote:
Wow, thanks Gary I will try that right away.
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 1200 hours (as of last flight.)
From: "Gary A. Sobek" < RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com >
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 4:48:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
Harry:
I did the same as you. I can dampen out the hunting by adding some aileron
trim bias to one side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as it will go to on
e side.) The load on the control helps with hunting.
Gary:
There is a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078
I recommend reading post #5. It says almost any motor can be used as a repl
acement but stated that the Micromo was the longest lasting. There is a lin
k to a less expensive item on eBay.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
2,900+ Flying Hours Pennsylvania, USA
On 08-18-2014, 7:24 PM, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
GV,
The same thing happened to me on the way to OSH two years ago. I bought a T
rio head while there and installed it after I got home, using the old Navai
d servo. The Trio works OK and has some features that were not available in
the Navaid, but it has an annoying tendency that I have never been able to
trim out of hunting back and forth around the GPS course. If I could have
obtained a new motor for the Navaid I would have gone that way and been com
pletely satisfied (until it died again). The Trio folks insist that the pro
blem is because the servo is mounted under the passenger seat, just like yo
urs, and that they highly recommend mounting the servo in the wing tip. Bot
tom line is you will probably be happy if you go with a Trio and use the ol
d servo like I did, and just as happy if you find a replacement motor.
Harry Crosby
From: "Thomas Doran" <dorante(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor
I have two NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a servo that I r
emoved from my RV-8A. I replaced it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopilot.
I have been planning to put them on EBAY, but haven=99t gotten around
to it.
Are you interested?
Thanks,
Tom
On Aug 18, 2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:
Well it has finally happened again. The gyro motor on my ancient Navaid Dev
ices wing leveler has burned out. Navaid Devices went TU in 2008 and their
proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no longer available. Does anyon
e know if these motors are available elsewhere in someone's stash? I heard
that one of the Navaid people (Horace, I think) was the last to do the repa
irs before they closed their doors.
Is the right solution to go with the Trio head and keep the Navaid S1 servo
or replace the whole enchilada?
Comments from those who have gone thru this would be most helpful.
-Thx
GV
href= "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" > http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV-List href= "http://forums.matronics.com/" > http://foru
ms.matronics.com href= "http://www.matronics.com/contribution" > http://w
ww.matronics.com/contribution
____________________________________________________________
t="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp:// forums.matro
nics.com _blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
om/Navigator?RV-List"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
s.com "> http://forums.matronics.com om/contribution"> http://www.matronics
.com/contribution
t="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List tp:// forums.matro
nics.com _blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0ASo, what I have found out is that the original motor fr
om Micromo is no longer available. The closest thing to t
he original is their 1624T012S123-277. It differs from the ori
ginal in the kind of grease used and the back shaft is 1
mm shorter. George Hunt and Jani Glover at Micromo were v
ery helpful in helping me nail down the details.=0A =0AThe r
eplacement motor is $110 and was in stock. I should have
it in a week or so and will advise whether I have the
AP-1 working again or it and the new motor have gone off
to Valhalla.=0A=0AThe challenge will be to install the .149" t
hick flywheel on the 4mm back shaft. I will rough up th
e shafts, apply some Loctite 271 and press the front flywhee
l on until flush then press the back flywheel on only .125
" or so. Once that is done and I have reassembled the
unit, balanced the gyro/motor/flywheel on its shaft and wired
it up I should be good to go. It's not nearly as comp
lex as the multilayer high density surface mounted defense boa
rds I work on every day, but does require a steady hand,
good soldering skills and a microscope. Hope for the best.=0A
=0A-GV=0A =0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: vanremog <vanremog
(at)aol.com>=0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Mon, Aug 18,
2014 5:45 pm=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A=0A
=0AFirst, a couple of shots of the original motor Micromo 16
24L012S692 044.=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0ASo far the closest ite
ms to the original motor that I can track down easily are
the following and my known criteria are:=0A =0A12VDC=0A15,000 to
20,000 rpm =0A1620 to 1625 size (dia/bodyL)=0Adouble shaft 1.
5mm dia or greater (to allow use of the original flywheel
s)12VDC=0A=0A =0Ahttp://www.hollywoodfoundry.com/MHK1624.htm=0A =0Ahttp://ww
w.hollywoodfoundry.com/MHK1620.htm=0A =0A -GV=0A =0A-----Original Messag
e-----=0AFrom: Gary A. Sobek <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com>=0ATo: rv-list <
rv-list(at)matronics.com>=0ASent: Mon, Aug 18, 2014 4:50 pm=0ASubject:
Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A=0A=0A
=0A Harry:=0A I did the same as you. I
can dampen out the hunting by adding some aileron tri
m bias to one side. (Turn manual aileron trim as far as
it will go to one side.) The load on the cont
rol helps with hunting.=0A =0A Gary:=0A
There is a thread on VAF about the motor replacement.=0A
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=38078=0A
=0A I recommend reading post #5. It says al
most any motor can be used as a replacement but sta
ted that the Micromo was the longest lasting. There i
s a link to a less expensive item on eBay.=0A =0A
=0A Gary A. Sobek =0A "My San
ity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, =0A 2,900+
Flying Hours Pennsylvania, USA =0A =0A
=0A =0A =0A =0AOn 08-18-2014, 7:24 PM,
HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:=0A =0A =0A
=0A =0AGV,=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AThe same thing happe
ned to me on the way to OSH two years
ago. I bought a Trio head while there and installed it
after I got home, using the old Nava
id servo. The Trio works OK and has s
ome features that were not available in the Navaid, but
it has an annoying tendency that I have nev
er been able to trim out of hunting b
ack and forth around the GPS course. If
I could have obtained a new motor for the Navaid I w
ould have gone that way and been comple
tely satisfied (until it died again).
The Trio folks insist that the problem is because the
servo is mounted under the passenger seat, ju
st like yours, and that they highly rec
ommend mounting the servo in the wing t
ip. Bottom line is you will probably be happy if you go
with a Trio and use the old servo
like I did, and just as happy if you
find a replacement motor.=0A =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0AHarry Crosby=0A
=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A =0AFrom:
"Thomas Doran" =0A
Monday, August 18, 2014 3:58:20 PM=0A Sub
ject: Re: RV-List: Navaid AP-1 gyro motor=0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A I have two
NAVAID control heads (one I got as a spare) and a
servo that I removed from my RV-8A. I repla
ced it with a Dynon Skyview and Autopil
ot. =0A=0A =0A
=0AI have been planning to put them on EBAY
, but haven=99t gotten around t
o it.=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0AAre you interested? =0A
=0A=0A =0A
=0AThanks, =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0ATom=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A
=0A =0AOn Aug 18,
2014, at 12:56 PM, vanremog(at)aol.com wrote:=0A
=0A =0A
=0AWell
it has finally happened again. The gyr
o motor on
my ancient Navaid Devices wing leveler has burned
out. Navaid Devices wen
t TU in 2008 and their
proprietary motor (Micromo 1624L012S692) is no
longer available.
Does anyone know if these
motors are available elsewhere in someone's
stash? I hear
d that one of the Navaid people
(Horace, I think) was the last to do
the repairs b
efore they closed their doors.=0A
=0A =0A =0A
Is the right solution to go with the Trio head
and keep the Navaid S1 servo
or replace the whole
enchilada?=0A =0A
=0A =0AComments from th
ose who have gone thru this would
be most helpful.=0A
=0A =0A
=0A-Thx=0A =0A =0A
=0AGV=0A
=0A=0A=0A
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV-List=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.c
om=0Ahref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A
=0A ____________________
________________________________________=0A
=0A
=0A =0A
=0A =0A=0A=0At="_blank
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blan
k">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A =0A
=0A=0A =0A =0A
=0A=0A=0Aom/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Li
st=0As.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Aom/contribution">http://www.matronics.
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
- List Contribution Web Site -=0A
-Matt
===========================
===========0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com> |
Tom=2C
Don't worry about it. Anybody=2C including the FAA=2C will know what you m
eant. And as soon as you write/wrote a new condition inspection entry=2C
the old one was superseded.
Mike Robertson
Retired Das Fed
Date: Fri=2C 22 Aug 2014 08:22:28 -0700
Subject: RV-List: log book errro
From: sarg314(at)gmail.com
When doing my annual this year I checked back on the previous log entries I
made for my other annual inspections. I was amazed to discover that a cou
ple years ago I did not make the standard entry about "i gave inspected...
it complies with..." etc. I just wrote "completed annual inspection".
=0A
Is this really a mistake? Do you need the standard verbiage?
If it is a mistake=2C how do I make it right?
I also keep a separate=2C unofficial document for each inspection. It's a
long check list of everything I did along with with notes=2C my signature a
nd certificate number. Probably has no standing with the FAA=2C but it exi
sts.=0A
--
Tom Sargent=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
============0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
I am selling my RV 6 project. 90 % complete .
Call for photos and details
Frank
530-391-9760
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Wing walk adhesive removal |
I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing walk...from the glue
still stuck to the paint....
Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None really break
down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final cleaning of the
areas that I have been able to remove the glue manually - by rubbing it in to
boogers with my hands and manually picking the boogers off!
Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Wing walk adhesive removal |
Replacing the UHMW tape on the flaps I found a SMALL about of heat from a
hot air gun loosens up the glue well enough to come off the tape. Too much
heat and you soften the paint. For the last bit of residue I used Coleman
Fuel as the cleaner.
You might try Goo Gone for what you have.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 11:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing walk...from
the glue still stuck to the paint....
Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None
really break down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final
cleaning of the areas that I have been able to remove the glue manually - by
rubbing it in to boogers with my hands and manually picking the boogers
off!
Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing walk adhesive removal |
| From: | don van santen <donvansanten(at)gmail.com> |
Try 3m woodgrain and stripe adhesive remover.
On Sep 6, 2014 9:04 AM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote:
> carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
>
> Replacing the UHMW tape on the flaps I found a SMALL about of heat from a
> hot air gun loosens up the glue well enough to come off the tape. Too much
> heat and you soften the paint. For the last bit of residue I used Coleman
> Fuel as the cleaner.
>
> You might try Goo Gone for what you have.
>
> Carl
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 11:39 AM
> To: rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
>
>
> I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing walk...from
> the glue still stuck to the paint....
>
> Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
> I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None
> really break down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final
> cleaning of the areas that I have been able to remove the glue manually -
> by
> rubbing it in to boogers with my hands and manually picking the boogers
> off!
>
> Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk adhesive removal |
| From: | larygagnon(at)aol.com |
Try Goof-off from Loews or Home Depot=0A=0ALarry=0A=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0A =0A=0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Carl Froehlich <carl.froe
hlich(at)verizon.net>=0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Sat, Se
p 6, 2014 12:00 pm=0ASubject: RE: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive
arl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>=0A=0AReplacing the UHMW tape on the flaps
I found a SMALL about of heat from a=0Ahot air gun loos
ens up the glue well enough to come off the tape. Too
much=0Aheat and you soften the paint. For the last bit of
residue I used Coleman=0AFuel as the cleaner.=0A=0AYou might
try Goo Gone for what you have.=0A=0ACarl=0A-----Original Message-
----=0AFrom: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen=0ASent: Saturday, Se
ptember 06, 2014 11:39 AM=0ATo: rv-list=0ASubject: RV-List: Wing
E. Capen" =0A=0AI checked the archives and
was able to easily remove the wing walk...from=0Athe glue stil
l stuck to the paint....=0A=0AIs there an easy way to remove
the glue?=0AI have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK,
and paint thinner. None=0Areally break down the glue....the A
vgas does a real good job of final=0Acleaning of the areas
that I have been able to remove the glue manually - by=0Ar
ubbing it in to boogers with my hands and manually pickin
g the boogers=0Aoff!=0A=0AAny other ideas would be appreciated....
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
=========================0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A =0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk adhesive removal |
Thanks to all who provided suggestions.
I was able to remove the adhesive with Avgas after letting it soak for a couple
of minutes and rubbing it off with a paper towel. I tried the Avgas one more
time before going out to buy something else as it was available here at the hangar.
Now I need to clean it well before putting on the new one!
Ralph
RV6A N822AR "Patience" @ N06 220hrs.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Sep 6, 2014 11:38 AM
>To: rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
>
>
>I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing walk...from the
glue still stuck to the paint....
>
>Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
>I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None really
break down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final cleaning of the
areas that I have been able to remove the glue manually - by rubbing it in to
boogers with my hands and manually picking the boogers off!
>
>Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk adhesive removal |
This works really well. The friction heats the UHMW and glue and then
shears it right off.
http://www.amazon.com/Eraser-Pad-Pinstripe-Adhesive-Removal/dp/B0020HQRQC
/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1314142476&sr=1-2
Probably takes 1/2 hour per flap. I tried scraping, solvent, and
everything else, but this was the solution. Your local auto body shop
probably has =98em too.
From: don van santen
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
Try 3m woodgrain and stripe adhesive remover.
On Sep 6, 2014 9:04 AM, "Carl Froehlich"
wrote:
Replacing the UHMW tape on the flaps I found a SMALL about of heat
from a
hot air gun loosens up the glue well enough to come off the tape. Too
much
heat and you soften the paint. For the last bit of residue I used
Coleman
Fuel as the cleaner.
You might try Goo Gone for what you have.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E.
Capen
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 11:39 AM
To: rv-list
Subject: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing
walk...from
the glue still stuck to the paint....
Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None
really break down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final
cleaning of the areas that I have been able to remove the glue
manually - by
rubbing it in to boogers with my hands and manually picking the
boogers
off!
Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
==========
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk adhesive removal |
I'll remember that for the next time....there will be!
-----Original Message-----
From: kboatright1(at)comcast.net
Sent: Sep 6, 2014 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
This works really well. The friction heats the UHMW and glue and then shears it
right off.
http://www.amazon.com/Eraser-Pad-Pinstripe-Adhesive-Removal/dp/B0020HQRQC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1314142476&sr=1-2
Probably takes 1/2 hour per flap. I tried scraping, solvent, and everything else,
but this was the solution. Your local auto body shop probably has em too.
From: don van santen
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 12:48 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
Try 3m woodgrain and stripe adhesive remover.
On Sep 6, 2014 9:04 AM, "Carl Froehlich" wrote:
Replacing the UHMW tape on the flaps I found a SMALL about of heat from a
hot air gun loosens up the glue well enough to come off the tape. Too much
heat and you soften the paint. For the last bit of residue I used Coleman
Fuel as the cleaner.
You might try Goo Gone for what you have.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 11:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing walk...from
the glue still stuck to the paint....
Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None
really break down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final
cleaning of the areas that I have been able to remove the glue manually - by
rubbing it in to boogers with my hands and manually picking the boogers
off!
Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
==========
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Burton" <d-burton(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk adhesive removal |
3M and others make an adhesive removing solvent which is safe for most
paints and plastics. It's mostly Naphtha and Linoleic acid (the chemical
extracted from citrus). You can purchase spray cans of it and it works
great. It also is good a dissolving old lubricant from mechanisms. I rinse
afterwards with alcohol to remove any residue that is left.
You may have luck finding spray cans of it at an auto paint store. I
believe Granger carries it. I purchase it by the gallon from Ace Hardware.
My branch has to order it, but it shipping is free. That's significant
since a gallon of it in a heavy can would be expensive to ship.
One of the nice features of this product is that it has almost no health
risks associated with its use...
David
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 8:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
>
> I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing walk...from
> the glue still stuck to the paint....
>
> Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
> I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None
> really break down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final
> cleaning of the areas that I have been able to remove the glue manually -
> by rubbing it in to boogers with my hands and manually picking the
> boogers off!
>
> Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | scott bilinski <rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk adhesive removal |
Try Goofoff..... Works great.
On Saturday, September 6, 2014 1:57 PM, David Burton wrote:
3M and others make an adhesive removing solvent which is safe for most
paints and plastics. It's mostly Naphtha and Linoleic acid (the chemical
extracted from citrus). You can purchase spray cans of it and it works
great. It also is good a dissolving old lubricant from mechanisms. I rinse
afterwards with alcohol to remove any residue that is left.
You may have luck finding spray cans of it at an auto paint store. I
believe Granger carries it. I purchase it by the gallon from Ace Hardware.
My branch has to order it, but it shipping is free. That's significant
since a gallon of it in a heavy can would be expensive to ship.
One of the nice features of this product is that it has almost no health
risks associated with its use...
David
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2014 8:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wing walk adhesive removal
>
> I checked the archives and was able to easily remove the wing walk...from
> the glue still stuck to the paint....
>
> Is there an easy way to remove the glue?
> I have tried Avgas, bug and tar remover, MEK, and paint thinner. None
> really break down the glue....the Avgas does a real good job of final
> cleaning of the areas that I have been able to remove the glue manually -
> by rubbing it in to boogers with my hands and manually picking the
> boogers off!
>
> Any other ideas would be appreciated.....
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone based at New Garden, PA (N57)? |
My wife has asked me to take her to Dover Saddlery in Hockessin, DE. N57
appears to be the closest airport - I'm thinking we'll fly in and get a cab
for her shopping trip. My thoughts are that when asked to use the plane
for a purpose - make it happen!
Does the airport have an airport car? Any RV-ers based there wanting to go
to Dover Saddlery?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR "Patience" @ N06 220+ hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <cheathco(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Want your input on iphone vs android |
My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking about p
ay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well as iphone. le
t me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protec
tion is active.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
iPhone and iPad with Foreflight for over 3-years.
Had an Android tablet a little over a year ago and I got rid of it after
a short time as there were only bad aviation apps.
On 09-18-2014 10:29 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking
> about pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well
> as iphone. let me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I prefer Android in general and tried to be content with the flying apps,
but they all fell short compared to those available on Apple. I eventually
went Ipad mini and iPhone 5S. I still think it was the right choice, at
least as far a flying related apps go. It might be a good opportunity to
try the iPhone 6 Plus to meet your phone and tablet needs in one device.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Thu, Sep 18, 2014 at 10:29 AM, wrote:
> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking
> about pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well as
> iphone. let me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
>
>
> ------------------------------
> <http://www.avast.com/>
>
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> <http://www.avast.com/> protection is active.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
On 9/18/2014 9:29 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking
> about pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well
> as iphone. let me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
>
I'm currently using an iphone 4 (with no data plan) on ATT prepaid: $100
per year for 1000 minutes, and they roll over each year as long as you
renew before the end of the year. You can also go month-to-month, but
it's easier for me to pay once a year.
I have SkyCharts Pro on the phone (I think it was a one-time charge of
$20). Works great for my vfr cross country flying, but limited features;
unlike the higher dollar programs.
I also have a Nexus 7 tablet (1st generation) that works fine in the
cockpit. 2nd gen are supposed to be even better. I'm running Avare on it
(free); also works great, again with somewhat limited features.
I've considered buying an android phone and switching phone service to
one of the prepaid $50/month unlimited voice/data plans, but I don't
need data on-the-go often enough to justify an extra $40/month for data.
There are cheaper data plans out there for low volume use, especially
for just phone use (no tablet connectivity).
These days, a phone contract makes no sense unless you're
'grandfathered' into one of the old no-limit, no-throttle programs that
no one sells anymore.
If you have one of the grandfathered unlimited data plans, I'd bet you
could 'sublet' your number to a friend/relative who needs lots of data,
for enough money to get yourself a new phone/number/prepaid plan for
free. :-)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
On 9/18/2014 10:29 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking
> about pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well
> as iphone. let me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
Can't comment on iphone .....
I have AT&T service but like my buddy's T-mobile contract better. I
might switch since they'll buy your contract.
I don't use much data (2 GB) either, doing most stuff on my home wifi.
Only time I seem to use data is looking at weather when I'm away from
home. Also, when you're away from home, almost any fast food place has
wifi. If you're a Brighthouse subscriber they have free wifi spread
around too.
I have android phone and tablet. I have anywheremap on the tablet that
I fly with, but also have avare on both. I have lifetime IFR/VFR
subscription for anywheremap, but that seems to be their lifetime, not
mine. Avare is free, and is constantly being upgraded .... by
volunteers who write the code so it should always be free .....
donations accepted.
Linn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Want your input on iphone vs android |
I got addicted to ForeFlight on the iPad. I got a WiFi only iPad with a Bad
Elf GPS. While WiFi is needed for flight planning weather, I never had a
situation where I was not able to find WiFi when needed. This of course
eliminates the monthly data bill. I like the set up.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cheathco(at)cox.net
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2014 10:30 AM
Subject: RV-List: Want your input on iphone vs android
My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking about
pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well as iphone.
let me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
_____
<http://www.avast.com/>
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
<http://www.avast.com/> protection is active.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)twc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
If you are using a newer iPhone 5or 5s and your contact is up you can use St
raight talk for $45 a mouth unlimited talk/text and I think 2 gigs of Data.
Sent from my Verizon iPhone
> On Sep 18, 2014, at 9:29 AM, wrote:
>
> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking about p
ay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well as iphone. let
me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
>
>
>
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus prote
ction is active.
>
>
>
>
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry Stout" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Want your input on iphone vs android |
I am using an iPad Mini in the cockpit with Foreflight Pro. I love the
software but the Mini screen is almost impossible to read on all but a very
cloudy day. Does anyone know of a tablet or whatever that will run
Foreflight, but has a sunlight readable screen?
Garry Stout
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Want your input on iphone vs android
On 9/18/2014 9:29 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking about
pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well as iphone.
let me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
I'm currently using an iphone 4 (with no data plan) on ATT prepaid: $100 per
year for 1000 minutes, and they roll over each year as long as you renew
before the end of the year. You can also go month-to-month, but it's easier
for me to pay once a year.
I have SkyCharts Pro on the phone (I think it was a one-time charge of $20).
Works great for my vfr cross country flying, but limited features; unlike
the higher dollar programs.
I also have a Nexus 7 tablet (1st generation) that works fine in the
cockpit. 2nd gen are supposed to be even better. I'm running Avare on it
(free); also works great, again with somewhat limited features.
I've considered buying an android phone and switching phone service to one
of the prepaid $50/month unlimited voice/data plans, but I don't need data
on-the-go often enough to justify an extra $40/month for data. There are
cheaper data plans out there for low volume use, especially for just phone
use (no tablet connectivity).
These days, a phone contract makes no sense unless you're 'grandfathered'
into one of the old no-limit, no-throttle programs that no one sells
anymore.
If you have one of the grandfathered unlimited data plans, I'd bet you could
'sublet' your number to a friend/relative who needs lots of data, for enough
money to get yourself a new phone/number/prepaid plan for free. :-)
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
Have had an AT&T iPhone so long that I have UNLIMITED data plus get a
25% discount from the company I retired from on my AT&T data and voice
plans. 32GB iPad2 is AT&T but was never activated. Only used on WiFi
networks at home, hotels, and FBOs. Thought it was worth the $130 Apple
premium to get a built in GPS that will not break off or require an
additional charger. BTW, I typically use less than 1GB data per month
on my iPhone 5S except for when I travel or am on vacation. Could move
to cheaper dataplan but cannot get 25% discount on the cheaper data
plan. With the discount, I am only $2.50 a month more than the limited
data plan. When traveling or on vacation, I save by keeping my
unlimited iPhone data.
Replacement iPad was / is 64GB iPad Mini with Retina on T-Mobile.
T-Mobile has FREE 200 MB each month for life. Have used iPad Mini a few
times on Cell network but T-Mobile typically only has data in big cities.
Foreflight is my standard App. Have SkyCharts Pro but quit using it as
Foreflight has the best user interface. WingX, Garmin Pilot, and FlyQ
(Seattle Avionics) are all good but I like Foreflight best so I pay
Foreflight for a subscription the past 3-years.
Any iPad you get for aviation use REQUIRES Anti Glare Screen protector.
iPad is not very usable in the RV Cockpit without the Anti Glare Screen
Protector.
Gary
> On Sep 18, 2014, at 9:29 AM, > > wrote:
>
>> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking
>> about pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well
>> as iphone. let me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fisher Paul A." <FisherPaulA(at)johndeere.com> |
| Subject: | Want your input on iphone vs android |
I use an Android tablet that is WiFi only (no data contract at all!) and ru
n Naviator (http://www.naviatorapp.com/) as my primary flight application.
It's not free ($35/year), but it has been worth the price from my perspect
ive. The developer is very responsive to issues that people bring up on th
e forum.
As someone else mentioned, I too have been experimenting with Avare (http:/
/apps4av.com/avare-overview/), but I don't think it is quite there yet. Bu
t as was also mentioned it is being upgraded regularly, so maybe it will ge
t there soon!
I've also been playing with Fltpln Go (http://fltplan.com) which is also fr
ee. It has a lot of nice features as well.
As long as you have WiFi available on the ground, I don't see a big need fo
r a data plan on my tablet. I also have an Android phone, but all of my fl
ight planning is done on the tablet.
Just my $0.02.
Paul A. Fisher
RV-7A N18PF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
Garry:
You must get an Anti Glare screen protector. I typically use a CHEAP one.
Here is a link to one that is reasonable in cost.
http://smile.amazon.com/Halo-Screen-Protector-Anti-Glare-Retina/dp/B00AOK54MA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411058952&sr=8-2&keywords=iPad+mini+anti+glare+screen+protector
I agree that the iPad is not very useful in the cockpit without an Anti
Glare Screen protector. I used an iPad with an Anti Glare screen
protector in Southern California for more than two years with very few
viewing issues in my RV. Yes I fly over 100 hours per year.
Gary
On 09-18-2014 12:07 PM, Garry Stout wrote:
>
> I am using an iPad Mini in the cockpit with Foreflight Pro. I love
> the software but the Mini screen is almost impossible to read on all
> but a very cloudy day. Does anyone know of a tablet or whatever that
> will run Foreflight, but has a sunlight readable screen?
>
>
>
> Garry Stout
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:*owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Charlie England
> *Sent:* Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:30 AM
> *To:* rv-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: Want your input on iphone vs android
>
>
>
> On 9/18/2014 9:29 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also
> thinking about pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying
> apps as well as iphone. let me know what you are using/thinking.
> Charlie
>
>
>
> I'm currently using an iphone 4 (with no data plan) on ATT prepaid:
> $100 per year for 1000 minutes, and they roll over each year as long
> as you renew before the end of the year. You can also go
> month-to-month, but it's easier for me to pay once a year.
>
> I have SkyCharts Pro on the phone (I think it was a one-time charge of
> $20). Works great for my vfr cross country flying, but limited
> features; unlike the higher dollar programs.
>
> I also have a Nexus 7 tablet (1st generation) that works fine in the
> cockpit. 2nd gen are supposed to be even better. I'm running Avare on
> it (free); also works great, again with somewhat limited features.
>
> I've considered buying an android phone and switching phone service to
> one of the prepaid $50/month unlimited voice/data plans, but I don't
> need data on-the-go often enough to justify an extra $40/month for
> data. There are cheaper data plans out there for low volume use,
> especially for just phone use (no tablet connectivity).
>
> These days, a phone contract makes no sense unless you're
> 'grandfathered' into one of the old no-limit, no-throttle programs
> that no one sells anymore.
>
> If you have one of the grandfathered unlimited data plans, I'd bet you
> could 'sublet' your number to a friend/relative who needs lots of
> data, for enough money to get yourself a new phone/number/prepaid plan
> for free. :-)
>
> Charlie
>
> * *
> ========================http://www.matronics.===============
> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous
> nbsp; --> http://www.matronics.com/c
> * *
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
I use Brando anti-glare protectors on everything. They work real well.
Rumor has it the next iPad Air will have an anti glare screen, so I may not h
ave to anymore. I like the way the Brando feels, too.
Tim
> On Sep 18, 2014, at 11:53 AM, "Gary A. Sobek" wrot
e:
>
> Garry:
>
> You must get an Anti Glare screen protector. I typically use a CHEAP one.
>
> Here is a link to one that is reasonable in cost.
> http://smile.amazon.com/Halo-Screen-Protector-Anti-Glare-Retina/dp/B00AOK5
4MA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411058952&sr=8-2&keywords=iPad+mini+an
ti+glare+screen+protector
>
> I agree that the iPad is not very useful in the cockpit without an Anti Gl
are Screen protector. I used an iPad with an Anti Glare screen protecto
r in Southern California for more than two years with very few viewing issue
s in my RV. Yes I fly over 100 hours per year.
>
> Gary
>
>> On 09-18-2014 12:07 PM, Garry Stout wrote:
>> I am using an iPad Mini in the cockpit with Foreflight Pro. I love the s
oftware but the Mini screen is almost impossible to read on all but a very c
loudy day. Does anyone know of a tablet or whatever that will run Forefligh
t, but has a sunlight readable screen?
>>
>> Garry Stout
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@mat
ronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
>> Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:30 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Want your input on iphone vs android
>>
>> On 9/18/2014 9:29 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
>> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking about
pay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well as iphone. l
et me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
>>
>> I'm currently using an iphone 4 (with no data plan) on ATT prepaid: $100 p
er year for 1000 minutes, and they roll over each year as long as you renew b
efore the end of the year. You can also go month-to-month, but it's easier f
or me to pay once a year.
>>
>> I have SkyCharts Pro on the phone (I think it was a one-time charge of $2
0). Works great for my vfr cross country flying, but limited features; unlik
e the higher dollar programs.
>>
>> I also have a Nexus 7 tablet (1st generation) that works fine in the cock
pit. 2nd gen are supposed to be even better. I'm running Avare on it (free);
also works great, again with somewhat limited features.
>>
>> I've considered buying an android phone and switching phone service to on
e of the prepaid $50/month unlimited voice/data plans, but I don't need data
on-the-go often enough to justify an extra $40/month for data. There are ch
eaper data plans out there for low volume use, especially for just phone use
(no tablet connectivity).
>>
>> These days, a phone contract makes no sense unless you're 'grandfathered'
into one of the old no-limit, no-throttle programs that no one sells anymor
e.
>>
>> If you have one of the grandfathered unlimited data plans, I'd bet you co
uld 'sublet' your number to a friend/relative who needs lots of data, for en
ough money to get yourself a new phone/number/prepaid plan for free. :-)
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>> ========================h
ttp://www.matronics.===============
>> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp
; --> http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>>
>> new,courier" size="2">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> s.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> om/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | prepaid android phone pireps? |
Since Charlie H brought it up....
Anyone have a recommendation for an inexpensive android phone with, at
minimum, the hardware capabilities of something like an iphone 4/4s? I'm
considering the replacement of my iphone 4 with an android device. I'd
like the ability to move between carriers, but be able to continue using
my ATT gophone sim card at present. A potential future use would be as a
'hot spot' for my Nexus 7 tablet & my wife's ipad.
Any thoughts on an inexpensive unlocked phone? I don't need 'tomorrow's
state of the art'. Buying used doesn't necessarily bother me, as long as
it's truly unlocked and I can use my ATT prepaid (gophone) sim card in
the short term.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prepaid android phone pireps? |
Go on ebay ..... lots of hits for android phone .....
You should do some homework to find what models have the capabilities
you want. The Samsung S5 has a pressure sensor .... my S4 doesn't. I
upgraded from an old flip phone and didn't know what I really had!
Linn
On 9/18/2014 9:42 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>
> Since Charlie H brought it up....
>
> Anyone have a recommendation for an inexpensive android phone with, at
> minimum, the hardware capabilities of something like an iphone 4/4s?
> I'm considering the replacement of my iphone 4 with an android device.
> I'd like the ability to move between carriers, but be able to continue
> using my ATT gophone sim card at present. A potential future use would
> be as a 'hot spot' for my Nexus 7 tablet & my wife's ipad.
>
> Any thoughts on an inexpensive unlocked phone? I don't need
> 'tomorrow's state of the art'. Buying used doesn't necessarily bother
> me, as long as it's truly unlocked and I can use my ATT prepaid
> (gophone) sim card in the short term.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prepaid android phone pireps? |
I was hoping someone had already done that research. :-)
Seriously, I have been looking, but there are so many choices, it's just
about impossible to sort through them.
Thanks,
Charlie
On 9/18/2014 9:45 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> Go on ebay ..... lots of hits for android phone .....
> You should do some homework to find what models have the capabilities
> you want. The Samsung S5 has a pressure sensor .... my S4 doesn't. I
> upgraded from an old flip phone and didn't know what I really had!
> Linn
>
> On 9/18/2014 9:42 PM, Charlie England wrote:
>>
>> Since Charlie H brought it up....
>>
>> Anyone have a recommendation for an inexpensive android phone with,
>> at minimum, the hardware capabilities of something like an iphone
>> 4/4s? I'm considering the replacement of my iphone 4 with an android
>> device. I'd like the ability to move between carriers, but be able to
>> continue using my ATT gophone sim card at present. A potential future
>> use would be as a 'hot spot' for my Nexus 7 tablet & my wife's ipad.
>>
>> Any thoughts on an inexpensive unlocked phone? I don't need
>> 'tomorrow's state of the art'. Buying used doesn't necessarily bother
>> me, as long as it's truly unlocked and I can use my ATT prepaid
>> (gophone) sim card in the short term.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Charlie
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry Stout" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Want your input on iphone vs android |
Thanks Tim.
Garry
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2014 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Want your input on iphone vs android
I use Brando anti-glare protectors on everything. They work real well.
Rumor has it the next iPad Air will have an anti glare screen, so I may
not have to anymore. I like the way the Brando feels, too.
Tim
On Sep 18, 2014, at 11:53 AM, "Gary A. Sobek" > wrote:
Garry:
You must get an Anti Glare screen protector. I typically use a CHEAP
one.
Here is a link to one that is reasonable in cost.
http://smile.amazon.com/Halo-Screen-Protector-Anti-Glare-Retina/dp/B00AOK
54MA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8
<http://smile.amazon.com/Halo-Screen-Protector-Anti-Glare-Retina/dp/B00AO
K54MA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411058952&sr=8-2&keywords=iPad+mi
ni+anti+glare+screen+protector>
&qid=1411058952&sr=8-2&keywords=iPad+mini+anti+glare+screen+protect
or
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ollie Washburn <ollies7s(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Want your input on iphone vs android |
You need a Skyguardz shield. No glare and no finger prints.
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 18, 2014, at 12:07 PM, "Garry Stout" wrote
:
>
> I am using an iPad Mini in the cockpit with Foreflight Pro. I love the so
ftware but the Mini screen is almost impossible to read on all but a very cl
oudy day. Does anyone know of a tablet or whatever that will run Foreflight
, but has a sunlight readable screen?
>
> Garry Stout
>
>
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matr
onics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
> Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:30 AM
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Want your input on iphone vs android
>
> On 9/18/2014 9:29 AM, cheathco(at)cox.net wrote:
> My contract is up, I used hardly any data paying $91. also thinking about p
ay as you go. Android has good reviews on flying apps as well as iphone. let
me know what you are using/thinking. Charlie
>
> I'm currently using an iphone 4 (with no data plan) on ATT prepaid: $100 p
er year for 1000 minutes, and they roll over each year as long as you renew b
efore the end of the year. You can also go month-to-month, but it's easier f
or me to pay once a year.
>
> I have SkyCharts Pro on the phone (I think it was a one-time charge of $20
). Works great for my vfr cross country flying, but limited features; unlike
the higher dollar programs.
>
> I also have a Nexus 7 tablet (1st generation) that works fine in the cockp
it. 2nd gen are supposed to be even better. I'm running Avare on it (free); a
lso works great, again with somewhat limited features.
>
> I've considered buying an android phone and switching phone service to one
of the prepaid $50/month unlimited voice/data plans, but I don't need data o
n-the-go often enough to justify an extra $40/month for data. There are chea
per data plans out there for low volume use, especially for just phone use (
no tablet connectivity).
>
> These days, a phone contract makes no sense unless you're 'grandfathered' i
nto one of the old no-limit, no-throttle programs that no one sells anymore.
>
> If you have one of the grandfathered unlimited data plans, I'd bet you cou
ld 'sublet' your number to a friend/relative who needs lots of data, for eno
ugh money to get yourself a new phone/number/prepaid plan for free. :-)
>
> Charlie
>
> ========================ht
tp://www.matronics.===============
> http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp;
--> http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | an outfit called Select Vehicle Marketing |
| From: | Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I have an ad to sell my plane on Barnstormers. A salesman from Select
Vehicle Marketing saw it and called me and wants me to pay him $350 to sell
my plane. He has a story that sounds good. Of course everybody has a good
story.
Has any one heard of these guys? Is this a scam? If it's not a scam, are
they competent?
Thanks,
---
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: an outfit called Select Vehicle Marketing |
On 9/19/2014 12:38 PM, Thomas Sargent wrote:
> I have an ad to sell my plane on Barnstormers. A salesman from Select
> Vehicle Marketing saw it and called me and wants me to pay him $350 to
> sell my plane. He has a story that sounds good. Of course everybody
> has a good story.
>
> Has any one heard of these guys? Is this a scam? If it's not a scam,
> are they competent?
>
> Thanks,
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent
Not that BBB is particularly reliable as an evaluator (the businesses
pay their bills), but:
http://www.bbb.org/nebraska/business-reviews/internet-marketing-services/select-vehicle-marketing-in-omaha-ne-300079104/complaints
The 1st complaint I read, said that the company basically took the guy's
money and advertised his vehicle on the same sites where he was already
advertising.
I'd tell him that if he has a buyer, bring you a contract and you'll pay
a *commission* of $350 at closing, but you won't pay him to advertise
for you.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: an outfit called Select Vehicle Marketing |
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
I had them do the same thing when I advertised my Rans. The thing they tou
ted was voice over video for your advertisement plus a bunch of other things
. So I visited their web site and clicked on other airplane advertisement
s to check out this feature. I was very unimpressed, their robot like voic
e over was lame and clearly didn't know the vernacular so the ad sounded jun
ky, they didn't take the time to pronounce the abbreviations often used, s
o for example 100 hp was not pronounced as horse power but as "hp". So I de
cided no to them.
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
610-928-3420
> On Sep 19, 2014, at 1:38 PM, Thomas Sargent wrote:
>
> I have an ad to sell my plane on Barnstormers. A salesman from Select Veh
icle Marketing saw it and called me and wants me to pay him $350 to sell my p
lane. He has a story that sounds good. Of course everybody has a good story
.
>
> Has any one heard of these guys? Is this a scam? If it's not a scam, are
they competent?
>
> Thanks,
>
> ---
> Tom Sargent
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | testing (no reply needed) |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB Grand Rapids EIS (and EFIS?) |
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
Anyone have an EIS 4000 or EIS 6000 that's lying around after a panel
upgrade? I need more sensor inputs than I have available with my EIS 2000.
And if you have an EFIS, I might be interested in that, as well.
Thanks,
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WTB Grand Rapids EIS (and EFIS?) |
| From: | Bill Boyd <sportav8r(at)gmail.com> |
Let me know if you find two of 'em, Charlie. I'm upgrading to GRT glass
this winter and need a 4000 to replace my 2000 as well ;-)
-Stormy
On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 8:39 AM, Charlie England
wrote:
> Anyone have an EIS 4000 or EIS 6000 that's lying around after a panel
> upgrade? I need more sensor inputs than I have available with my EIS 2000.
>
> And if you have an EFIS, I might be interested in that, as well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WTB Grand Rapids EIS (and EFIS?) |
| From: | Rob Henderson <robnrobinh(at)comcast.net> |
R3J0IHdpbGwgdXNlIDIgRWlzIG1vZHVsZXMgaWYgeW91IGhhdmUgYSBzcGFyZSBzZXJpYWwgcG9y
dAoKClNlbnQgZnJvbSBteSBWZXJpem9uIFdpcmVsZXNzIDRHIExURSBzbWFydHBob25lCgo8ZGl2
Pi0tLS0tLS0tIE9yaWdpbmFsIG1lc3NhZ2UgLS0tLS0tLS08L2Rpdj48ZGl2PkZyb206IEJpbGwg
Qm95ZCA8c3BvcnRhdjhyQGdtYWlsLmNvbT4gPC9kaXY+PGRpdj5EYXRlOjEwLzA4LzIwMTQgIDA2
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PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAgIC0gTUFUUk9OSUNTIFdFQiBGT1JVTVMgLQpf
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cl8tPSAg
ICAgICAgICAgICAtIExpc3QgQ29udHJpYnV0aW9uIFdlYiBTaXRlIC0KXy09ICBUaGFuayB5b3Ug
Zm9yIHlvdXIgZ2VuZXJvdXMgc3VwcG9ydCEKXy09ICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICAg
ICAgLU1hdHQgRHJhbGxlLCBMaXN0IEFkbWluLgpfLT0gICAtLT4gaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25p
Y3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbgpfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQoK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WTB Grand Rapids EIS (and EFIS?) |
Interesting; I'll keep that in mind.
Thanks,
Charlie
On 10/8/2014 11:33 PM, Rob Henderson wrote:
> Grt will use 2 Eis modules if you have a spare serial port
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Bill Boyd
> Date:10/08/2014 06:32 (GMT-08:00)
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: WTB Grand Rapids EIS (and EFIS?)
>
> Let me know if you find two of 'em, Charlie. I'm upgrading to GRT
> glass this winter and need a 4000 to replace my 2000 as well ;-)
>
> -Stormy
>
> On Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 8:39 AM, Charlie England > wrote:
>
> Anyone have an EIS 4000 or EIS 6000 that's lying around after a
> panel upgrade? I need more sensor inputs than I have available
> with my EIS 2000.
>
> And if you have an EFIS, I might be interested in that, as well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled at the
500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the air while
I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like some of its
'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
On 10/23/2014 8:06 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
> Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled at the
500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the air while
I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
>
> Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
> Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like some of
its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
>
> Ralph Capen
>
There were a couple on ebay recently; don't know if they are still there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
Thanks Charlie - I'll look.
-----Original Message-----
>From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 23, 2014 9:17 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
>
>
>On 10/23/2014 8:06 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
>> Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled at
the 500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the air while
I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
>>
>> Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
>> Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like some of
its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
>>
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>There were a couple on ebay recently; don't know if they are still there.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
I recommend just jumping to dual Pmags.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:07 AM
Subject: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled at
the 500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the air
while I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like some
of its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
>From time to time, VAF has listed LASAR parts and systems for sale.
Champion sells the publications needed for overhaul. Typically all that
needs replaced is the PLASTIC Cam that activates the points. When the
cam wears down, the points do not open and then the electronic ignition
part no longer works.
http://www.championaerospace.com/products/slick-magnetos/
On 10-23-2014 9:29 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Charlie - I'll look.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
>> Sent: Oct 23, 2014 9:17 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
>>
>>
>> On 10/23/2014 8:06 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
>>> Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled at
the 500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the air while
I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
>>>
>>> Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
>>> Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like some
of its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
>>>
>>> Ralph Capen
>>>
>> There were a couple on ebay recently; don't know if they are still there.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
Good thought Gary - after building an airplane, maybe, I CAN overhaul a mag....
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Gary A. Sobek" <RV6_Flyer(at)hotmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 23, 2014 10:07 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
>
>
>>From time to time, VAF has listed LASAR parts and systems for sale.
>
>Champion sells the publications needed for overhaul. Typically all that
>needs replaced is the PLASTIC Cam that activates the points. When the
>cam wears down, the points do not open and then the electronic ignition
>part no longer works.
>http://www.championaerospace.com/products/slick-magnetos/
>
>
>On 10-23-2014 9:29 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Thanks Charlie - I'll look.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Oct 23, 2014 9:17 AM
>>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
>>>
>>>
>>> On 10/23/2014 8:06 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
>>>> Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled at
the 500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the air
while I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
>>>>
>>>> Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
>>>> Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like some
of its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
>>>>
>>>> Ralph Capen
>>>>
>>> There were a couple on ebay recently; don't know if they are still there.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
For the price - potentially good idea!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
>Sent: Oct 23, 2014 9:52 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, 'lycoming engine list'
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
>
>
>I recommend just jumping to dual Pmags.
>
>Carl
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:07 AM
>To: rv-list; lycoming engine list
>Subject: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
>
>
>I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
>Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled at
>the 500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the air
>while I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
>
>Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
>Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like some
>of its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
>
>Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation
and upgrade of the Email List and Fourm Services at Matronics. It's solely through
the Contributions of List members (you) that these Matronics Lists are possible.
You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site http://forums.matronics.com , Wiki site http://wiki.matronics.com , or other related pages such as the List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search , List Browse http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse , etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of
days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all
of the bills associated with running these lists. YOUR personal Contribution
counts!
This year we have a really HUGE and TERRIFIC line up of free gifts to go along
with the various Contribution levels. In fact, there are over 30 different gifts
to choose from - more than we've ever had before! There's something for everyone,
to be sure. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the
vary members and vendors that you'll find on the Matronics Lists and they have
been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous members include:
Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com
Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com
Corbin Glowacki of My Pilot Store http://www.mypilotstore.com
George Race of Race Consulting http://www.mrrace.com/
Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP http://www.homebuilthelp.com
These are very generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web
sites. Each one offers a unique and excellent aviation-related product line.
I would like publicly to thank Andy, Bob, Corbin, George, and Jon their generous
support of the Lists again this year!!
Please make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including
using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford
you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying
Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund
Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way
of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Please take a moment and assure that your name is on that List of Contributors
(LOC)! As a number of members have pointed out over the years, the List seems
at least as valuable a building / entertainment tool as your typical magazine
subscription!
Assure that your name is on this year's LOC! Show others that you appreciate the
Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your
Credit card or Paypal on the Secure Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far in this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps
these Lists going and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about
how the Lists have helped you!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94551-0347
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button... |
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages.
Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through
the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added
to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund
Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes
to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric
bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered
on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which
allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in
reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined
with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site
up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics
Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are
so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have
it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous
public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in December! |
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
too!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
| From: | Tom Wright <tom(at)tomusa.me> |
If anybody is interested I have a complete Lazar ignition test kit with
case.
Tom
On Thu, Oct 23, 2014 at 9:17 AM, Charlie England
wrote:
>
> On 10/23/2014 8:06 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
>> Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled
>> at the 500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in the
>> air while I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
>>
>> Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their shelf?
>> Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like
>> some of its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
>>
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>> There were a couple on ebay recently; don't know if they are still there.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system |
Are you talking about the T300 Timing tool?
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Wright
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2014 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Anyone want to get rid of their LASAR system
If anybody is interested I have a complete Lazar ignition test kit with
case.
Tom
On Thu, Oct 23, 2014 at 9:17 AM, Charlie England > wrote:
>
On 10/23/2014 8:06 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
I have one in my 6A and like it a lot.
Knowing that the magneto portions will need to be inspected / overhauled
at the 500 hr mark - I am thinking that having spares would keep me in
the air while I await the refurbishment...if the price is halfway right.
Anyone out there replaced their LASAR and have it sitting on their
shelf?
Let me know if there was a failure mode, you wore it out, didn't like
some of its 'features' or whatever...along with what you want for it.
Ralph Capen
There were a couple on ebay recently; don't know if they are still
there.
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.aeroelectric.com>
<http://www.buildersbooks.com>
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
<http://www.mypilotstore.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What's Your Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
You might have wondered at some point, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here
are just a few examples of what your direct List support enables... It provides
for the expensive, commercial-grade Internet connection used on the List.
It pays for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest
performance possible for List services such as the Archive Search Engine,
List Browser, and the Web Forums. It pays for the over 23 years of on-line
archive data always available for instant search and access. And, it offsets
the many hours spent writing, developing, and maintaining the custom applications
that power these List Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, Forums,
and Wiki.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and your
peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from moderation,
censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer viruses.
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List
services. Please support it today with your List Contribution. Its one of
the best investments you can make in your Sport!
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least
that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get
a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during
this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through
YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
Since the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that elk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning,
maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser
each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email
every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the
operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory.
Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Behind By 20% - Please Contribute Today! |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of members making a Contribution to support the Lists this year
is currently behind last year by at this time by roughly 20%. Please take this
opportunity to show your support for the Matronics Lists and Forums!
Please remember that it is *solely* your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
and Forums up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members
don't want to support the Lists directly, then I might have to add advertisements
to offset the costs of running the Lists. But I don't want to have to do
that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and I think that a lot
of the members appreciate that too.
Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
operation of all these Lists:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming Soon! |
Dear Listers,
There's just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means
the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their
appreciation for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Giving Thanks - Your List Contribution... |
Dear Listers,
Here in the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many
of us will be traveling to be with our families and friends to share in generous
feasts of plenty and giving thanks for the many blessings that have been bestowed
upon us.
Many Listers have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are
for the Email Lists and Forums here on the Matronics servers and for all of the
assistance and comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists.
One of my favorite comments is when someone writes to me and says something like,
"Its the first thing I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!".
That's a wonderful tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists.
Its always great to hear I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning
to check my List email!!
Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for
their continued operation and upgrade?
The List Contribution Site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you in advance for your kind consideration,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just Two Days Left! - Still Behind... |
Dear Listers,
There are just two more days left in this years List Fund Raiser. We are still
way behind last year in terms of the number of contributions and total contribution
amount. I really want to keep providing these services to the homebuilt
community, but it take resources. Since there's no advertising budget or deep
pockets to keep the operation a float, its solely your generosity during the
Fund Raiser that keeps things going. Please make a Contribution today.
If you've been putting off showing your support for the Lists, now is the time
to do it!
Make a contribution with a Credit Card or though PayPal at that Matronics Contribution
web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a check in the mail:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming Soon! |
Dear Listers,
There's just two more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means
the List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post
a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly
thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sam ray <sam95037(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | rv8 canopy keeper rivet |
What is the best way to remove the canopy keeper rivets? =C2-The usual tr
ick of turning the drill chuck slowing by hand doesn't work because the ple
xi is so soft it allows the rivet to spin with the drill even at low speeds
.
Thanks,Sam RayRV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again
- 51, so don't reminde me! :-) But it also means that it's that last official
day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about
picking up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump
on it!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
and I don't ever forget it.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you to all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3 RV items for sale |
| From: | Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
I am cleaning out the hangar and have 3 items that might be of use to some
one. All are new, never used, but pretty old. All prices include
shipping! Anybody interested? Make an offer. I can't bring my self to
throw them out.
1- Koger Sun Shade for RV-6A (7A, too, I guess). Probably 8 years old.
New. $35.
2- A fuel filter that was shipped with my AirFlow Performance fuel
injection system. I used an AndAir gascolator which has a finer screen than
the AFP unit, so I never used it. This is from 1999. $35.
3- The RV-6A battery box circa 2000. This mounts in the cabin, up against
the fire wall and is large - to hold a Gill or Concorde battery (NOT a
PC-680). I put my PC-680 in that same place, but made my own mount to hold
it. $20
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 RV items for sale |
Hi Tom....I=99ll take the sunshade if you still have it. Please
email/call me or send your number.
Evan
evmeg(at)snowcrest.net
530-247-0375 home
530-351-1776 cell
From: Thomas Sargent
Sent: Sunday, December 07, 2014 8:47 AM
Subject: RV-List: 3 RV items for sale
I am cleaning out the hangar and have 3 items that might be of use to
some one. All are new, never used, but pretty old. All prices include
shipping! Anybody interested? Make an offer. I can't bring my self to
throw them out.
1- Koger Sun Shade for RV-6A (7A, too, I guess). Probably 8 years old.
New. $35.
2- A fuel filter that was shipped with my AirFlow Performance fuel
injection system. I used an AndAir gascolator which has a finer screen
than the AFP unit, so I never used it. This is from 1999. $35.
3- The RV-6A battery box circa 2000. This mounts in the cabin, up
against the fire wall and is large - to hold a Gill or Concorde battery
(NOT a PC-680). I put my PC-680 in that same place, but made my own
mount to hold it. $20
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3 RV items for sale |
| From: | Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com> |
The Koger sun shade and the AFP filter have been spoken for.
On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 9:47 AM, Thomas Sargent wrote:
> I am cleaning out the hangar and have 3 items that might be of use to some
> one. All are new, never used, but pretty old. All prices include
> shipping! Anybody interested? Make an offer. I can't bring my self to
> throw them out.
>
> 1- Koger Sun Shade for RV-6A (7A, too, I guess). Probably 8 years old.
> New. $35.
>
> 2- A fuel filter that was shipped with my AirFlow Performance fuel
> injection system. I used an AndAir gascolator which has a finer screen than
> the AFP unit, so I never used it. This is from 1999. $35.
>
> 3- The RV-6A battery box circa 2000. This mounts in the cabin, up against
> the fire wall and is large - to hold a Gill or Concorde battery (NOT a
> PC-680). I put my PC-680 in that same place, but made my own mount to hold
> it. $20
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
--
Tom Sargent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 12/07/14 |
| From: | Vince Frazier <vincefrazier(at)gmail.com> |
Tom,
I'll take the filter and sunshade if still available. Or either if one is
already gone.
Let me know where to send a check or Paypal.
Thanks,
Vince Frazier
Flyboy Accessories
3963 Caborn Road North
Mount Vernon, IN 47620
812-464-1839 office
812-449-0230 cell
www.flyboyaccessories.com
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: 3 RV items for sale
> From: Thomas Sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com>
>
> I am cleaning out the hangar and have 3 items that might be of use to some
> one. All are new, never used, but pretty old. All prices include
> shipping! Anybody interested? Make an offer. I can't bring my self to
> throw them out.
>
> 1- Koger Sun Shade for RV-6A (7A, too, I guess). Probably 8 years old.
> New. $35.
>
> 2- A fuel filter that was shipped with my AirFlow Performance fuel
> injection system. I used an AndAir gascolator which has a finer screen than
> the AFP unit, so I never used it. This is from 1999. $35.
>
> 3- The RV-6A battery box circa 2000. This mounts in the cabin, up against
> the fire wall and is large - to hold a Gill or Concorde battery (NOT a
> PC-680). I put my PC-680 in that same place, but made my own mount to hold
> it. $20
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 2014 List of Contributors |
Dear Listers,
The 2014 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of
weeks ago and it's time that I published this year's List of Contributors.
It is the people on this list that directly make these Email Lists and Forums
possible! Their generous Contributions keep the servers and Internet connection
up and running!
You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same
time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
I also want to thank Andy, Bob, Corbin, George, and Jon for their generous support
through the supply of many great gifts this year!! These guys have some excellent
products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites:
Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - http://www.buildersbooks.com
Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - http://www.aeroelectric.com
Corbin Glowacki - My Pilot Store - http://www.mypilotstore.com
George Race - Race Consulting - http://www.mrrace.com
Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - http://www.homebuilthelp.com
And finally, I'm proud to present The 2014 Fund Raiser List of Contributors:
http://www.matronics.com/loc/2014.html
Thank you again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List & Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
"Airport Courtesy Cars" is a new Google Play/Apple iPhone app that lists over 1100
airports nationwide that have crew/courtesy cars. Make sure you search for
it in the phone store, as searching from a tablet won't work. You can load
it on an iPad by changing the search function in the app store from iPad apps
to iPhone apps.You can dial the listing directly from the app to see if a car
is available. If you have a listing that I missed, or a correction, you can email
me via the app, or to airportcars101(at)gmail.com. Thanks for looking. Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
1952 Piper Tri-Pacer
Medevac Helicopter Driver
Tucson, Arizona
Owner, www.RVairspace.com and "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App
www.RVairspace.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436581#436581
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/appcoverpage_531.png
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Brame <ChasB(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cleaning fuel injectors |
I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my Lycoming O-320. The
AFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel injectors every 100 hours. Other than
soaking in Hoppes #9, no detailed instructions are given for cleaning the injectors.
What is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel injectors?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning fuel injectors |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AWhy not ask the expert?=0A =0Adon(at)airflowperformance.com=0A=0A =0A
=0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: Charles Brame <ChasB@satx
.rr.com>=0ATo: List RV =0ASent: Sun, Jan 4,
2015 11:22 am=0ASubject: RV-List: Cleaning fuel injectors=0A=0A=0A--
I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my
Lycoming O-320. The =0AAFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel
injectors every 100 hours. Other than =0Asoaking in Hoppes #9,
no detailed instructions are given for cleaning the =0Ainject
ors.=0A=0AWhat is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel
===========================
===========================
-Matt
===========================
===========================
===========================
================0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning fuel injectors |
| From: | <mr.gsun(at)gmail.com> |
I soak mine for an hour, careful not to mix them up.
Blow out with compressed air
No poking with wire or anything.
Greg
On Jan 4, 2015 11:26 AM, "Charles Brame" wrote:
>
> I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my Lycoming O-320.
> The AFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel injectors every 100 hours.
> Other than soaking in Hoppes #9, no detailed instructions are given for
> cleaning the injectors.
>
> What is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel injectors?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Gill <wgill10(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning fuel injectors |
My IO-390 has been running as smooth as a Swiss Watch for the past 1600 hours and
I have never cleaned the injectors. I guess that will be on my list next annual.
Bill
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 4, 2015, at 1:21 PM, Charles Brame wrote:
>
>
> I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my Lycoming O-320. The
AFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel injectors every 100 hours. Other than
soaking in Hoppes #9, no detailed instructions are given for cleaning the injectors.
>
> What is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel injectors?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning fuel injectors |
Bill,
Don't fix it if it ain't broke or you may end up fixing it until it is
broke.
--
Lyle
Sent from my Gateway E4610D desktop
On 1/4/2015 5:45 PM, Bill Gill wrote:
>
> My IO-390 has been running as smooth as a Swiss Watch for the past 1600 hours
and I have never cleaned the injectors. I guess that will be on my list next
annual.
>
> Bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 4, 2015, at 1:21 PM, Charles Brame wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my Lycoming O-320. The
AFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel injectors every 100 hours. Other than
soaking in Hoppes #9, no detailed instructions are given for cleaning the injectors.
>>
>> What is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel injectors?
>>
>> Charlie Brame
>> RV-6A N11CB
>> San Antonio
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning fuel injectors |
Charlie,
These documents should help you.
Charlie
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/4/15, Charles Brame wrote:
Subject: RV-List: Cleaning fuel injectors
To: "List RV"
Date: Sunday, January 4, 2015, 2:21 PM
Charles Brame
I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my
Lycoming O-320. The AFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel
injectors every 100 hours. Other than soaking in Hoppes #9,
no detailed instructions are given for cleaning the
injectors.
What is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel
injectors?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A- N11CB
San Antonio
Lists This Month --
Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
Raiser.- Click on
more about
Gifts provided
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
www.mypilotstore.com
www.mrrace.com
- - - - - - - -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
Forum -
---- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Kuss <chaskuss(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning fuel injectors |
Charlie,
These documents should help you.
Charlie
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 1/4/15, Charles Brame wrote:
Subject: RV-List: Cleaning fuel injectors
To: "List RV"
Date: Sunday, January 4, 2015, 2:21 PM
Charles Brame
I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my
Lycoming O-320. The AFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel
injectors every 100 hours. Other than soaking in Hoppes #9,
no detailed instructions are given for cleaning the
injectors.
What is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel
injectors?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A- N11CB
San Antonio
Lists This Month --
Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
Raiser.- Click on
more about
Gifts provided
www.aeroelectric.com
www.buildersbooks.com
www.homebuilthelp.com
www.mypilotstore.com
www.mrrace.com
- - - - - - - -Matt
Dralle, List Admin.
Forum -
---- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Injector Cleaning |
Lycoming instructions are here:
http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/techpublications/serviceinstructions/SI%201275C%20%2809-23-2008%29/Cleaning%20Fuel%20Injector%20Nozzles.pdf
I cleaned mine after 1000 hrs of operation and my fuel burn dropped by 0.5
gph when running lean of peak.
Gradually they got worse at atomizing the fuel and I wasn't able to run as
lean.
Its easy enough to do that I'll probably do it at each annual.
1 hr is a bit long for the hoppes, 20 minutes is recommended, at $30
ultrasonic cleaner might be worthwhile also:
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Ultrasonic-Jewelry-Eyeglass-Cleaning/dp/B001DKDAVW
Bill
N84WJ, RV-8, 1097 hrs
RV-8.blogspot.com
>
> 1. 11:22 AM - Cleaning fuel injectors (Charles Brame)
> 2. 11:49 AM - Re: Cleaning fuel injectors (vanremog(at)aol.com)
> 3. 02:13 PM - Re: Cleaning fuel injectors ()
> 4. 03:46 PM - Re: Cleaning fuel injectors (Bill Gill)
> 5. 03:51 PM - Re: Cleaning fuel injectors (Lyle Peterson)
> 6. 04:59 PM - Re: Cleaning fuel injectors (Charles Kuss)
> 7. 04:59 PM - Re: Cleaning fuel injectors (Charles Kuss)
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1
> _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Charles Brame <ChasB(at)satx.rr.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Cleaning fuel injectors
>
>
> I have an Air Flow Performance fuel injection system on my Lycoming O-320.
> The
> AFP manual recommends cleaning the fuel injectors every 100 hours. Other
> than
> soaking in Hoppes #9, no detailed instructions are given for cleaning the
> injectors.
>
> What is the best, approved, method for cleaning fuel injectors?
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Morgensen <john(at)morgensen.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Injector Cleaning |
Any idea on a recommended solution to use in an ultrasonic? I have seen
admonitions against using volatile solutions like Hoppe's #9 or MEK but
no information on what should be used. I use an ultrasonic for cleaning
rifle cartridges and the solution is intended for brass but I don't know
if it would be ok for injectors.
john
RV9A
On 1/5/2015 8:02 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
> Lycoming instructions are here:
> http://www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/techpublications/serviceinstructions/SI%201275C%20%2809-23-2008%29/Cleaning%20Fuel%20Injector%20Nozzles.pdf
>
> I cleaned mine after 1000 hrs of operation and my fuel burn dropped by
> 0.5 gph when running lean of peak.
>
> Gradually they got worse at atomizing the fuel and I wasn't able to
> run as lean.
>
> Its easy enough to do that I'll probably do it at each annual.
>
> 1 hr is a bit long for the hoppes, 20 minutes is recommended, at $30
> ultrasonic cleaner might be worthwhile also:
> http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Ultrasonic-Jewelry-Eyeglass-Cleaning/dp/B001DKDAVW
>
> Bill
> N84WJ, RV-8, 1097 hrs
> RV-8.blogspot.com <http://RV-8.blogspot.com>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Injector Cleaning |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AYou might want to give this juice a try.=0A =0Ahttp://www.u
ltrasonicsdirect.com/12decacl.html?productid=12decacl&channelid=FROOG=0A =0A
=0A =0A-----Original Message-----=0AFrom: John Morgensen <john@morg
ensen.com>=0ATo: rv-list =0ASent: Mon, Jan 5,
2015 11:07 am=0ASubject: Re: RV-List: Injector Cleaning=0A=0A=0A
=0A Any idea on a recommended solut
ion to use in an ultrasonic? I have seen admonitio
ns against using volatile solutions like Hoppe's #9 or
MEK but no information on what should be used. I use an
ultrasonic for cleaning rifle cartridges and the solut
ion is intended for brass but I don't know if it
would be ok for injectors.=0A =0A john=0A
RV9A=0A =0A =0AOn 1/5/2015 8:02 AM, Bill Judg
e wrote:=0A =0A =0A =0A
=0ALycoming instructions are here:=0A http://
www.lycoming.com/Portals/0/techpublications/serviceinstructions/SI%201275C%20%28
09-23-2008%29/Cleaning%20Fuel%20Injector%20Nozzles.pdf=0A
=0A=0A =0A =0AI cleaned mine
after 1000 hrs of operation and my fuel burn
dropped by 0.5 gph when running lean of peak.=0A
=0A=0A =0A =0AGradu
ally they got worse at atomizing the fuel and I wasn't
able to run as lean.=0A =0A
=0A =0A =0AIts easy enough t
o do that I'll probably do it at each
annual.=0A =0A=0A =0A
=0A1 hr is a bit long for the hoppes, 20 minutes
is recommended, at $30 ultrasonic cleane
r might be worthwhile also:=0A
=0Ahttp://www.amazon.com/Professional-Ultrasonic-Jewelry-Eyeglass-Clean
ing/dp/B001DKDAVW=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0ABill=0A
=0AN84WJ, RV-8, 1097 hrs=0A =0ARV-8.blogspot.com=0A
=0A =0A =0A=0A
=0A =0A =0A =0A
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
====================0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
Thank you AOPA for reviewing the Airport Courtesy Car app in the February issue
on page 37. The review states the app is only available for iPhone, however that
is incorrect. And thanks also to AvWeb who reviewed it earlier. The app is
available for Android in the Google Play Store, so you Android users, please
check it out. The app is totally free and now lists over 1100 locations nationwide.
And thanks to all the folks on this forum who contributed listings. Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
1952 Piper Tri-Pacer
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Tucson, Arizona
Owner, www.RVairspace.com and "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App
www.RVairspace.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437179#437179
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to figure
out where to install the antenna....
Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted along the
fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places where bulkheads
mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm thinking of taking
advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doubler plate to
the underside.
Thoughts please?
Thanks,
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any
noticeable issues.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen
wrote:
>
> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to
> figure out where to install the antenna....
>
> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted
> along the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places
> where bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm
> thinking of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting
> a doubler plate to the underside.
>
> Thoughts please?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Inside or outside?
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
>
> I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any no
ticeable issues.
>
> Dave Leonard
>
>> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen w
rote:
>>
>> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to
figure out where to install the antenna....
>>
>> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted a
long the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places wh
ere bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm think
ing of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doub
ler plate to the underside.
>>
>> Thoughts please?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
John,
The navworx unit requires two antennas. One for the UAT and one for the GPS
. The blade antenna they are talking about the UAT output which is similar
to a transponder antenna. I wouldn't recommend locating that internally.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:35 PM, John Jessen wrote:
Inside or outside?
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
>
> I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any no
ticeable issues.
>
> Dave Leonard
>
>> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen w
rote:
>>
>> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to
figure out where to install the antenna....
>>
>> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted a
long the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places wh
ere bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm think
ing of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doub
ler plate to the underside.
>>
>> Thoughts please?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
Any pictures?!
-----Original Message-----
From: David Leonard
Sent: Jan 20, 2015 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement
I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any noticeable
issues.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to figure
out where to install the antenna....
Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted along the
fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places where bulkheads
mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm thinking of taking
advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doubler plate to
the underside.
Thoughts please?
Thanks,
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
==========
br>
fts!)
r>
>
com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
==========
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
I'm planning on getting my position data from my 420W - so I shouldn't need the
second GPS antenna...but that sounds like a good plan b place to put it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Jan 20, 2015 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement
John,
The navworx unit requires two antennas. One for the UAT and one for the GPS.
The blade antenna they are talking about the UAT output which is similar to a
transponder antenna. I wouldn't recommend locating that internally.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:35 PM, John Jessen wrote:
Inside or outside?
On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any noticeable
issues.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to figure
out where to install the antenna....
Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted along the
fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places where bulkheads
mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm thinking of taking
advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doubler plate to
the underside.
Thoughts please?
Thanks,
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
==========
br>
fts!)
r>
>
com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
==========
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
D============================================
ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
">www.mrrace.com
ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D============================================
st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
D============================================
//forums.matronics.com
D============================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Ah! Ok. Thanks. I'm very interested in this topic and product, although not
sure it works with Foreflight.
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:56 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> John,
>
> The navworx unit requires two antennas. One for the UAT and one for the G
PS. The blade antenna they are talking about the UAT output which is simil
ar to a transponder antenna. I wouldn't recommend locating that internally.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:35 PM, John Jessen wrote:
>
> Inside or outside?
>
>> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
>>
>> I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any n
oticeable issues.
>>
>> Dave Leonard
>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen w
rote:
>>>
>>> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying t
o figure out where to install the antenna....
>>>
>>> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted a
long the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places wh
ere bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm think
ing of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doub
ler plate to the underside.
>>>
>>> Thoughts please?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ralph
>>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> br> fts!)
>>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
> ">www.mrrace.com
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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> st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> //forums.matronics.com
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
>
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
Nothing works with foreflight, but stratus. That's why I use wingx.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 20, 2015, at 1:22 PM, John Jessen wrote:
Ah! Ok. Thanks. I'm very interested in this topic and product, although not
sure it works with Foreflight.
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:56 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> John,
>
> The navworx unit requires two antennas. One for the UAT and one for the G
PS. The blade antenna they are talking about the UAT output which is simil
ar to a transponder antenna. I wouldn't recommend locating that internally.
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:35 PM, John Jessen wrote:
>
> Inside or outside?
>
>> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
>>
>> I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any n
oticeable issues.
>>
>> Dave Leonard
>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen w
rote:
>>>
>>> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying t
o figure out where to install the antenna....
>>>
>>> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted a
long the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places wh
ere bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm think
ing of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doub
ler plate to the underside.
>>>
>>> Thoughts please?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ralph
>>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> br> fts!)
>>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
> ">www.mrrace.com
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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> st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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> //forums.matronics.com
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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>
>
>
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
> ">www.mrrace.com
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> //forums.matronics.com
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
Unfortunately that's not supported with the current navworx units. The GPS is
internal to the unit.
In 2016, for experimentals you be able to do the opposite. Send GPS position data
to your EFIS from navworx.
Other vendors may work differently.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 20, 2015, at 1:21 PM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
I'm planning on getting my position data from my 420W - so I shouldn't need the
second GPS antenna...but that sounds like a good plan b place to put it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Leffler
Sent: Jan 20, 2015 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement
John,
The navworx unit requires two antennas. One for the UAT and one for the GPS.
The blade antenna they are talking about the UAT output which is similar to a
transponder antenna. I wouldn't recommend locating that internally.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:35 PM, John Jessen wrote:
Inside or outside?
On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any noticeable
issues.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to figure
out where to install the antenna....
Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted along the
fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places where bulkheads
mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm thinking of taking
advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a doubler plate to
the underside.
Thoughts please?
Thanks,
Ralph
RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
==========
br>
fts!)
r>
>
com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
==========
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
==========
FORUMS -
_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
D============================================
ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
">www.mrrace.com
ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D============================================
st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
D============================================
//forums.matronics.com
D============================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
Yes, I'd probably have to switch over. I don't like WingX, but could get use
d to it, I suppose.
On Jan 20, 2015, at 10:36 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
> Nothing works with foreflight, but stratus. That's why I use wingx.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 1:22 PM, John Jessen wrote:
>
> Ah! Ok. Thanks. I'm very interested in this topic and product, although n
ot sure it works with Foreflight.
>
>
>
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:56 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
>> John,
>>
>> The navworx unit requires two antennas. One for the UAT and one for the G
PS. The blade antenna they are talking about the UAT output which is simil
ar to a transponder antenna. I wouldn't recommend locating that internally.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jan 20, 2015, at 12:35 PM, John Jessen wrote:
>>
>> Inside or outside?
>>
>> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
>>
>>> I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any n
oticeable issues.
>>>
>>> Dave Leonard
>>>
>>> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen w
rote:
>>>>
>>>> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying t
o figure out where to install the antenna....
>>>>
>>>> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted
along the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places w
here bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm thin
king of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting a dou
bler plate to the underside.
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts please?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Ralph
>>>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ==========
>>>> br> fts!)
>>>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>>>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>>>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>>> ==========
>>>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>>>> ==========
>>>> FORUMS -
>>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>>> ==========
>>>
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
>> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
>> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
>> ">www.mrrace.com
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
>> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
>> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
>> ">www.mrrace.com
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>
>
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com
> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com
> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com
> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com
> ">www.mrrace.com
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> //forums.matronics.com
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
Outside lower, of course, just like a blade xpdr antenna. Nothing special
to see in a picture. I did not use a doubler (like I did for my ship comm
antenna) because the forces are relatively small the fore/aft mounting
holes will not allow for twisting of the skin the way a single hole would.
My GPS antenna is top interior with a view of the sky just like the other
satellite antennas.
I like my Navworx. I have had it installed for 2 years now. Was worth
purchasing early (long before 2020). I use it with an e-ink/lcd (pixel Qi
- the more sunlight the easier to read) windows tablet (solid state hard
drive, not an HHD) and Chartflier software.
The system just needs to have audible traffic alerts from either the
software or the Navworx. Seems easy enough to do but still not available.
Dave Leonard
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 9:35 AM, John Jessen wrote:
> Inside or outside?
>
> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
>
> I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any
> noticeable issues.
>
> Dave Leonard
>
> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying to
>> figure out where to install the antenna....
>>
>> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted
>> along the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places
>> where bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm
>> thinking of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting
>> a doubler plate to the underside.
>>
>> Thoughts please?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph
>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
| From: | Larry Bowen <larry(at)bowenaero.com> |
I recently switched to Garmin Pilot because I didn't want to be tied to
Stratus (with Foreflight). GP has been good overall, though I have to admit
Foreflight seems to set the pace of innovation when it comes to this class
of apps on the ipad.
--
Larry Bowen
Larry(at)BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 2:23 PM, David Leonard wrote:
> Outside lower, of course, just like a blade xpdr antenna. Nothing special
> to see in a picture. I did not use a doubler (like I did for my ship comm
> antenna) because the forces are relatively small the fore/aft mounting
> holes will not allow for twisting of the skin the way a single hole would.
>
> My GPS antenna is top interior with a view of the sky just like the other
> satellite antennas.
>
> I like my Navworx. I have had it installed for 2 years now. Was worth
> purchasing early (long before 2020). I use it with an e-ink/lcd (pixel Qi
> - the more sunlight the easier to read) windows tablet (solid state hard
> drive, not an HHD) and Chartflier software.
>
> The system just needs to have audible traffic alerts from either the
> software or the Navworx. Seems easy enough to do but still not available.
>
> Dave Leonard
>
> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 9:35 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
>> Inside or outside?
>>
>> On Jan 20, 2015, at 9:19 AM, David Leonard wrote:
>>
>> I put mine back in the empenage without a doubbler and have not had any
>> noticeable issues.
>>
>> Dave Leonard
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 8:44 AM, Ralph E. Capen
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Having purchased the NavWorx ADS600B and Delta-Pop antenna, I'm trying
>>> to figure out where to install the antenna....
>>>
>>> Since the Delta-Pop is a blade-type antenna, it will need to be mounted
>>> along the fuselage direction of flight axis. There are a couple of places
>>> where bulkheads mount to the bottom skin and are aligned correctly. I'm
>>> thinking of taking advantage of one of these bulkheads instead of mounting
>>> a doubler plate to the underside.
>>>
>>> Thoughts please?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ralph
>>> RV6A N822AR @ N06 "Patience" 240 hrs....
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> br> fts!)
>>> r> > com" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>>> w.buildersbooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>>> p.com" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>> e.com" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> " target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>>> ==========
>>> FORUMS -
>>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Delta-Pop ADS-B antenna placement |
For what it's worth, the RV-14 (unless I missed something
in construction) doesn't use doublers for the UAT and
Transponder antennas, but it does for the 2 COM antennas.
If true, then I don't think Van's thinks you need one for
the blades. I'm still considering if I should add one,
but with the fairly low drag maybe it's not worth worrying
about it.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Clark <lclark6372(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/19/15 |
Please stop sending emails!
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
-----Original Message-----
From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tue, Jan 20, 2015 12:15 AM
Subject: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/19/15
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 15-01-19&Archive=RV
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 15-01-19&Archive=RV
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
RV-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Mon 01/19/15: 0
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/19/15 |
| From: | Dale Ensing <densing(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Jim, you must un- subscribe. Go to bottom of message and look for instructio
n.
Dale Ensing
On Jan 20, 2015, at 19:18, Jim Clark wrote:
> Please stop sending emails!
>
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list(at)matronics.com>
> To: RV-List Digest List
> Sent: Tue, Jan 20, 2015 12:15 AM
> Subject: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 01/19/15
>
>
> *
>
> =========================
========================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =========================
========================
>
> Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=ht
ml&Chapter 15-01-19&Archive=RV
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=tx
t&Chapter 15-01-19&Archive=RV
>
>
> =========================
======================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> =========================
======================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> RV-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Mon 01/19/15: 0
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Judge <bjudge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
Folks,
I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner
tube. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next time
you have your tires off or sooner.
The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any
other brand of tube.
Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Brown
Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the
the aircraft until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway,
pulled the wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
Fly Safe,
Bill Judge
N84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrs
http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Kellem <kellemsm(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
Did you put talc in when installing?
Tough times don't last
Tough people do!!
Mike 931-993-7623
> On Jan 21, 2015, at 10:12, Bill Judge wrote:
>
> Folks,
> I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner tub
e. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next time you h
ave your tires off or sooner.
>
> The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any o
ther brand of tube.
>
> Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Brow
n Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the t
he aircraft until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway, p
ulled the wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
>
> Fly Safe,
>
>
> Bill Judge
> N84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrs
> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
I had a flat once on landing rollout - ended up being caused by a sticker inside
the tire rubbing the tube. I first thought the tube was junk - until I saw
the wear pattern and the respective sticker....
Might not be your case here - but I thought I would share my failure mode.....
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Judge
Sent: Jan 21, 2015 11:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
Folks,I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner tube.
If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next time you have
your tires off or sooner.
The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any other
brand of tube.
Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Brown Field,
coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the the aircraft
until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway, pulled the
wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
Fly Safe,
Bill JudgeN84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrshttp://rv-8.blogspot.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
And I had used talc.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Jan 21, 2015 11:48 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
>
>
>I had a flat once on landing rollout - ended up being caused by a sticker inside
the tire rubbing the tube. I first thought the tube was junk - until I saw
the wear pattern and the respective sticker....
>
>Might not be your case here - but I thought I would share my failure mode.....
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>From: Bill Judge
>
>Sent: Jan 21, 2015 11:12 AM
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
>
>
>Folks,I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner tube.
If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next time you have
your tires off or sooner.
>The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any other
brand of tube.
>Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Brown Field,
coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the the aircraft
until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway, pulled the
wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
>Fly Safe,
>
>Bill JudgeN84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrshttp://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steve <steve282s(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
All of the talc in the world will not prevent an inner tube leak if there i
s dirt/sand/stickers/grass/rocks/etc between the tube and tire. Even a smal
l grain of sand will cause a leak.=C2- Imagine the pressure between the t
ube and tire and then add the punishment of high speed taxi/takoffs, brakin
g and landings.=C2-
Steve
On Wednesday, January 21, 2015 11:07 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
And I had used talc.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Jan 21, 2015 11:48 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
>
>
>I had a flat once on landing rollout - ended up being caused by a sticker
inside the tire rubbing the tube.=C2- I first thought the tube was junk -
until I saw the wear pattern and the respective sticker....
>
>Might not be your case here - but I thought I would share my failure mode.
....
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>From: Bill Judge
>
>Sent: Jan 21, 2015 11:12 AM
>
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>
>Subject: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
>
>
>Folks,I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inn
er tube. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next tim
e you have your tires off or sooner.
>The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any
other brand of tube.
>Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Brow
n Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the
the aircraft until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway,
pulled the wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
>Fly Safe,
>
>Bill JudgeN84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrshttp://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>
>
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
In my (limited) experience, a tube will only wear through if assembled
without talc or was underinflated.
I talc everything .... tube, inside of tire and even the wheel hub.
Extra talc on the tire bead will make tire removal much easier down the
road ... er ... airway :-D .
Linn
On 1/21/2015 11:12 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
> Folks,
> I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner
> tube. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next
> time you have your tires off or sooner.
>
> The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to
> any other brand of tube.
>
> Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at
> Brown Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get
> out the the aircraft until the customs agent authorizes... I limped
> off the runway, pulled the wheel pant, and then limped to the customs
> box... fun fun.
>
> Fly Safe,
>
>
> Bill Judge
> N84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrs
> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
| From: | Reuven <Pilots2(at)yahoo.com> |
Had the exact same problem a few years ago with the Dresser No Leaks. 2 of t
hem let go on landings (about a month apart). One split on a seam, the othe
r had cracks like it was
old rubber and very poor quality. I don't buy Dresser tubes anymore. Mitchel
in much better quality.
7A 7WT
Sent from my I doohickey
> On Jan 21, 2015, at 12:48 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
>
> In my (limited) experience, a tube will only wear through if assembled wit
hout talc or was underinflated.
> I talc everything .... tube, inside of tire and even the wheel hub. Extra
talc on the tire bead will make tire removal much easier down the road ... e
r ... airway :-D .
> Linn
>
>
>> On 1/21/2015 11:12 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
>> Folks,
>> I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner tu
be. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next time you h
ave your tires off or sooner.
>>
>> The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any
other brand of tube.
>>
>> Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Bro
wn Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the t
he aircraft until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway, p
ulled the wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
>>
>> Fly Safe,
>>
>>
>> Bill Judge
>> N84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrs
>> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 01/21/15
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HCRV6(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
What Linn said, but more so. I have over 1200 hours on a set of leakguard t
ubes that have been through three sets of tires so far. Use copious amounts
of talc, in my case plain ole' baby powder on all surfaces, always very sl
ightly inflate the tube before mating the wheel halves to make certain that
the tube is straight in the tire with no folds or kinks, even wiggle it ar
ound to make sure, then deflate just enough to mate the wheel halves, makin
g certain that the tube doesn't get pinched between the wheel halves. With
all the talc you should have spread on the tube and inside the tire casing
the tube moves around easily. After the bolts are tight, partially inflate
the tube again and bounce it on the floor a couple of times to again make s
ure the tube has no kinks or folds, then deflate once more and do it again
for good measure before finally inflating to your desired pressure. Takes a
few minutes longer but sure beats flat tires.
BTW, with my leakguards my tires lose one psi or less in six or eight weeks
.
Harry Crosby
RV-6, coming up on 1300 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2015 12:48:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
In my (limited) experience, a tube will only wear through if assembled with
out talc or was underinflated.
I talc everything .... tube, inside of tire and even the wheel hub. Extra t
alc on the tire bead will make tire removal much easier down the road ... e
r ... airway :-D .
Linn
On 1/21/2015 11:12 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
Folks,
I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner tube
. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next time you h
ave your tires off or sooner.
The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any o
ther brand of tube.
Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Brown
Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the t
he aircraft until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway,
pulled the wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
Fly Safe,
Bill Judge
N84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrs
http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/21/15
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
Just to expand .... pun intended .... when the valve core is removed I
inflate/deflate the tube often using my air gun to prevent folds that
Harry talks about. One other problem I've seen are the wrong size tube
installed .... both too small and too big. Happens a lot when the plane
uses 5.00-5 on the nose and 6.00-6 on the mains. Not all that hard to
switch tubes.
Linn
On 1/21/2015 7:29 PM, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
> What Linn said, but more so. I have over 1200 hours on a set of
> leakguard tubes that have been through three sets of tires so far.
> Use copious amounts of talc, in my case plain ole' baby powder on all
> surfaces, always very slightly inflate the tube before mating the
> wheel halves to make certain that the tube is straight in the tire
> with no folds or kinks, even wiggle it around to make sure, then
> deflate just enough to mate the wheel halves, making certain that the
> tube doesn't get pinched between the wheel halves. With all the talc
> you should have spread on the tube and inside the tire casing the tube
> moves around easily. After the bolts are tight, partially inflate the
> tube again and bounce it on the floor a couple of times to again make
> sure the tube has no kinks or folds, then deflate once more and do it
> again for good measure before finally inflating to your desired
> pressure. Takes a few minutes longer but sure beats flat tires.
>
> BTW, with my leakguards my tires lose one psi or less in six or eight
> weeks.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6, coming up on 1300 hours
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
> *To: *"RV-List"
> *Sent: *Wednesday, January 21, 2015 12:48:26 PM
> *Subject: *Re: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
>
> In my (limited) experience, a tube will only wear through if assembled
> without talc or was underinflated.
> I talc everything .... tube, inside of tire and even the wheel hub.
> Extra talc on the tire bead will make tire removal much easier down
> the road ... er ... airway :-D .
> Linn
>
>
> On 1/21/2015 11:12 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
>
> Folks,
> I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard
> inner tube. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them
> the next time you have your tires off or sooner.
>
> The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen
> to any other brand of tube.
>
> Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing
> at Brown Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed
> to get out the the aircraft until the customs agent authorizes...
> I limped off the runway, pulled the wheel pant, and then limped to
> the customs box... fun fun.
>
> Fly Safe,
>
>
> Bill Judge
> N84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrs
> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6 Flyer <rv6_flyer(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
Been running Michelim Air Stop tubes since May 2005. Almost 1=2C300 flight
hours on the tubes according to log and not sure how many tires without go
ing through the log more. Also using plain old baby talc with procedures a
nd service like Harry Crosby. Looks like I had 1=2C671 hours on the tubes
that Van provided. They needed air once a month.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell=2C
2=2C954+ Flying Hours Pennsylvania=2C USA
Date: Wed=2C 21 Jan 2015 19:52:22 -0500
From: flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
Just to expand .... pun intended ....=0A
when the valve core is removed I inflate/deflate the tube often=0A
using my air gun to prevent folds that Harry talks about. One=0A
other problem I've seen are the wrong size tube installed ....=0A
both too small and too big. Happens a lot when the plane uses=0A
5.00-5 on the nose and 6.00-6 on the mains. Not all that hard to=0A
switch tubes.
=0A
Linn
=0A
=0A
On 1/21/2015 7:29 PM=2C HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
What Linn said=2C but more so. I=0A
have over 1200 hours on a set of leakguard tubes that have=0A
been through three sets of tires so far. Use copious amounts=0A
of talc=2C in my case plain ole' baby powder on all surfaces=2C
=0A
always very slightly inflate the tube before mating the wheel=0A
halves to make certain that the tube is straight in the tire=0A
with no folds or kinks=2C even wiggle it around to make sure=2C
=0A
then deflate just enough to mate the wheel halves=2C making=0A
certain that the tube doesn't get pinched between the wheel=0A
halves. With all the talc you should have spread on the tube=0A
and inside the tire casing the tube moves around easily. =0A
After the bolts are tight=2C partially inflate the tube again=0A
and bounce it on the floor a couple of times to again make=0A
sure the tube has no kinks or folds=2C then deflate once more=0A
and do it again for good measure before finally inflating to=0A
your desired pressure. Takes a few minutes longer but sure=0A
beats flat tires.
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
BTW=2C with my leakguards my tires=0A
lose one psi or less in six or eight weeks.
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
Harry Crosby
=0A
=0A
RV-6=2C coming up on 1300 hours
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
From: "Linn=0A
Walters"
=0A
To: "RV-List"
=0A
Sent: Wednesday=2C January 21=2C 2015 12:48:26 PM
=0A
Subject: Re: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the=0A
trash
=0A
=0A
=0A
In my (limited) experience=2C a=0A
tube will only wear through if assembled without talc or was=0A
underinflated.
=0A
I talc everything .... tube=2C inside of tire and even the=0A
wheel hub. Extra talc on the tire bead will make tire=0A
removal much easier down the road ... er ... airway :-D .
=0A
Linn
=0A
=0A
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On 1/21/2015 11:12 AM=2C Bill Judge wrote:
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Folks=2C=0A
I just got a second flat and the culprit was again=0A
the leakguard inner tube. If you're using these I=0A
recommend you get rid of them the next time you have=0A
your tires off or sooner.=0A
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The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never=0A
seen this happen to any other brand of tube.=0A
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Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time=2C=0A
I was landing at Brown Field=2C coming back from Mexico=2C
=0A
when you are not supposed to get out the the aircraft=0A
until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the=0A
runway=2C pulled the wheel pant=2C and then limped to the
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customs box... fun fun.=0A
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Fly Safe=2C=0A
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Bill Judge=0A
N84WJ=2C RV-8=2C 1103 hrs=0A
http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ollie Washburn <ollies7s(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash |
I'm with you Harry, I've had the same results. I do carry a spare nose tire t
ube.
Ollie
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 21, 2015, at 7:29 PM, HCRV6(at)comcast.net wrote:
>
> What Linn said, but more so. I have over 1200 hours on a set of leakguard
tubes that have been through three sets of tires so far. Use copious amou
nts of talc, in my case plain ole' baby powder on all surfaces, always very s
lightly inflate the tube before mating the wheel halves to make certain that
the tube is straight in the tire with no folds or kinks, even wiggle it aro
und to make sure, then deflate just enough to mate the wheel halves, making c
ertain that the tube doesn't get pinched between the wheel halves. With all
the talc you should have spread on the tube and inside the tire casing the t
ube moves around easily. After the bolts are tight, partially inflate the t
ube again and bounce it on the floor a couple of times to again make sure th
e tube has no kinks or folds, then deflate once more and do it again for goo
d measure before finally inflating to your desired pressure. Takes a few mi
nutes longer but sure beats flat tires.
>
> BTW, with my leakguards my tires lose one psi or less in six or eight week
s.
>
> Harry Crosby
> RV-6, coming up on 1300 hours
>
> From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
> To: "RV-List"
> Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2015 12:48:26 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Leakguard tubes belong in the trash
>
> In my (limited) experience, a tube will only wear through if assembled wit
hout talc or was underinflated.
> I talc everything .... tube, inside of tire and even the wheel hub. Extra
talc on the tire bead will make tire removal much easier down the road ... e
r ... airway :-D .
> Linn
>
>
> On 1/21/2015 11:12 AM, Bill Judge wrote:
> Folks,
> I just got a second flat and the culprit was again the leakguard inner tub
e. If you're using these I recommend you get rid of them the next time you h
ave your tires off or sooner.
>
> The tube just wore through and leaked. I've never seen this happen to any o
ther brand of tube.
>
> Of course it happened at a rather inconvenient time, I was landing at Brow
n Field, coming back from Mexico, when you are not supposed to get out the t
he aircraft until the customs agent authorizes... I limped off the runway, p
ulled the wheel pant, and then limped to the customs box... fun fun.
>
> Fly Safe,
>
>
> Bill Judge
> N84WJ, RV-8, 1103 hrs
> http://rv-8.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 01/21/15
>
>
>
>
> _blank" data-mce-href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
> " target="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.bui
ldersbooks.com
> ="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthe
lp.com
> ="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.mypilotstore.com">www.mypilotstore
.com
> ank" data-mce-href="http://www.mrrace.com">www.mrrace.com
> _blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/contribution
> t="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> ta-mce-href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Lasercut Labels For Panel & Interior (With Pics) |
I spent a day or so on the CAD laying out all the new panel and interior labels
for the RV-8 and also the RV-6 while I was at it. Lot's of precision pays off
here. I emailed PDF files of the labels to Ms Carita in Livermore, a label making
company, and ordered up some labels. I marked in red where I wanted them
cut out.
Today, I picked them up and they are pretty amazing! All I have to do is peal them
off the backing and apply! They are similar to what I had on the RV-8 v1.0,
but it seems that they did a better job than the first company.
Nothing makes an interior more professional than professional looking labels, IMHO.
These cost me $25/sheet. Well worth it!!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Warren Brecheisen" <n146wb(at)cfu.net> |
| Subject: | Lasercut Labels For Panel & Interior (With Pics) |
I had stick-on vinyl labels made for my -6. They are the same material that
they use for "wraps" on vehicles. They look good and weigh next to nothing
however they cost more than the laser cut labels.
Warren
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2015 8:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lasercut Labels For Panel & Interior (With Pics)
I spent a day or so on the CAD laying out all the new panel and interior
labels for the RV-8 and also the RV-6 while I was at it. Lot's of precision
pays off here. I emailed PDF files of the labels to Ms Carita in Livermore,
a label making company, and ordered up some labels. I marked in red where I
wanted them cut out.
Today, I picked them up and they are pretty amazing! All I have to do is
peal them off the backing and apply! They are similar to what I had on the
RV-8 v1.0, but it seems that they did a better job than the first company.
Nothing makes an interior more professional than professional looking
labels, IMHO. These cost me $25/sheet. Well worth it!!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer
Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Navworx ADS600b and SL70 |
Anyone out there using this configuration? I am getting ready for installation
in my RV6A - already have the gear
The navworx manual indicates it is a valid combination - but they reference an
"extended mode" or "remote mode" that needs to be programmed in the SL70. I have
the SL70 manuals (install and user) and can find no reference to programming
either of these functions.
What say ye oh "been there, done that" t-shirt wearers?
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bigdog(at)bentwing.com" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> |
| Subject: | Navworx ADS600b and SL70 |
I'm in the process of installing that config in my Navion. I'm tying into my SL-70,
430W and MX-20. I hope to pull the harness this weekend and complete the
physical part of the installation. Then comes the panel diving to hook it up.
I don't recall a reference to those modes but the SL-70 came in both panel mount
and remote mount versions. I'll have to check the manual to see if that's what
it means. I also plan to put the NavWorx in my RV which also has an SL-70
and 430w but I want to get it flying first. I'm seeing light at the end of the
tunnel and have decreed "no more changes".
Regards,
Greg Young
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
Anyone out there using this configuration? I am getting ready for installation
in my RV6A - already have the gear
The navworx manual indicates it is a valid combination - but they reference an
"extended mode" or "remote mode" that needs to be programmed in the SL70. I have
the SL70 manuals (install and user) and can find no reference to programming
either of these functions.
What say ye oh "been there, done that" t-shirt wearers?
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bigdog(at)bentwing.com" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> |
| Subject: | Navworx ADS600b and SL70 |
I've got Rev. 33 of the NavWorx install manual and can't find any reference to
extended and remote modes. Where did you find the reference to programming the
SL-70?
Greg
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bigdog(at)bentwing.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 5:16 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
-->
I'm in the process of installing that config in my Navion. I'm tying into my SL-70,
430W and MX-20. I hope to pull the harness this weekend and complete the
physical part of the installation. Then comes the panel diving to hook it up.
I don't recall a reference to those modes but the SL-70 came in both panel mount
and remote mount versions. I'll have to check the manual to see if that's what
it means. I also plan to put the NavWorx in my RV which also has an SL-70
and 430w but I want to get it flying first. I'm seeing light at the end of the
tunnel and have decreed "no more changes".
Regards,
Greg Young
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
Anyone out there using this configuration? I am getting ready for installation
in my RV6A - already have the gear
The navworx manual indicates it is a valid combination - but they reference an
"extended mode" or "remote mode" that needs to be programmed in the SL70. I have
the SL70 manuals (install and user) and can find no reference to programming
either of these functions.
What say ye oh "been there, done that" t-shirt wearers?
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Navworx ADS600b and SL70 |
Cross-posted to make sure everyone can see responses.....
I was initially asking them about the differences between connecting pins 3 and
5 of the SL70 to pins 32 and 33 of the ADS600B for control versus connecting
pins 3 and 5 of the SL70 to pins 6 and 7 of the ADS600B for altitude data.
Their initial response indicated that I only need 3 and 5 to 32 and 33 as that
connection will pass control and data messages. They followed up with indicating
extended mode or remote mode were also required - I haven't been able to get
a direct response to that question. I sent them pdf's of the SL70 install
and user guides - my Navworx manual is rev 33 (guessing from the part number)
- it doesn't have any references to remote mode for the SL70...but it does reference
a remote mode for the GNS480 and GTX330 units. There is a remote ident
supress feature common to the ADS600B (pin 35) and the SL70 (pin 19), which NavWorx
recommended to connect also.
>From reading everyone's manuals, my gut tells me that connecting pins 3, 5, and
19 of the SL70 to pins 32, 33, and 35 (respectively) of the ADS600B is all that
is required....no 'programming' in the SL70 - but there are settings in the
ADS600B.... This is how I'm planning my installation - unless I get additional/contrary
guidance from NavWorx.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: "bigdog(at)bentwing.com"
>Sent: Feb 4, 2015 6:54 PM
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
>
>
>I've got Rev. 33 of the NavWorx install manual and can't find any reference to
extended and remote modes. Where did you find the reference to programming the
SL-70?
>
>Greg
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bigdog(at)bentwing.com
>Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 5:16 PM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
>
>-->
>
>I'm in the process of installing that config in my Navion. I'm tying into my SL-70,
430W and MX-20. I hope to pull the harness this weekend and complete the
physical part of the installation. Then comes the panel diving to hook it up.
I don't recall a reference to those modes but the SL-70 came in both panel mount
and remote mount versions. I'll have to check the manual to see if that's
what it means. I also plan to put the NavWorx in my RV which also has an SL-70
and 430w but I want to get it flying first. I'm seeing light at the end of the
tunnel and have decreed "no more changes".
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:54 PM
>To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
>
>
>Anyone out there using this configuration? I am getting ready for installation
in my RV6A - already have the gear
>
>The navworx manual indicates it is a valid combination - but they reference an
"extended mode" or "remote mode" that needs to be programmed in the SL70. I
have the SL70 manuals (install and user) and can find no reference to programming
either of these functions.
>
>What say ye oh "been there, done that" t-shirt wearers?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Navworx ADS600b and SL70 |
Greg,
I have similar equipment (420W instead of 430W) in my 6A.
>From what I have read in everyone's manuals, the position out from the 400W/500W
series does not carry the same formatting (message number) that the NavWorx
box is expecting (even though it is a standard ARINC message) - so plan on the
additional GPS antenna for the NavWorx box and don't waste your time trying
to get position data out of the 400W/500W series units.
Since the MX20 will take in both traffic and weather data streams from the ADS600B
and the 400W/500W series will only take traffic, I am seriously considering
NOT burdening the 400W/500W box's processor with the data stream.
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: "bigdog(at)bentwing.com" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com>
>Sent: Feb 4, 2015 6:15 PM
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com" , "avionics-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: Avionics-List: RE: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
>
>--> Avionics-List message posted by: "bigdog(at)bentwing.com"
>
>I'm in the process of installing that config in my Navion. I'm tying into my SL-70,
430W and MX-20. I hope to pull the harness this weekend and complete the
physical part of the installation. Then comes the panel diving to hook it up.
I don't recall a reference to those modes but the SL-70 came in both panel mount
and remote mount versions. I'll have to check the manual to see if that's
what it means. I also plan to put the NavWorx in my RV which also has an SL-70
and 430w but I want to get it flying first. I'm seeing light at the end of the
tunnel and have decreed "no more changes".
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2015 3:54 PM
>To: avionics-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Navworx ADS600b and SL70
>
>
>Anyone out there using this configuration? I am getting ready for installation
in my RV6A - already have the gear
>
>The navworx manual indicates it is a valid combination - but they reference an
"extended mode" or "remote mode" that needs to be programmed in the SL70. I
have the SL70 manuals (install and user) and can find no reference to programming
either of these functions.
>
>What say ye oh "been there, done that" t-shirt wearers?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | NavWorx / SL 70 -> Extended mode |
>From the folks at NavWorx - kudos to them for documenting this...I expect to find
it in a NavWorx manual update soon.
The SL70 IM is missing the instructions on how to configure it for extended mode.
On page 31 of the 2003 Garmin SL70 installation manual, Appendix E Serial Interface
Specification, there is reference/clue in the paragraph Message Definitions.
Messages are
divided into two groups, the Standard Message which is simply the pressure altitude
and system status and the Extended Message group which includes the squawk
code and all the other good stuff listed in Appendix E. The last sentence references
that this
is accomplished in the setup mode and saved in the EEPROM. What is missing is
exactly how to do this.
The procedure is as follows:
Reference page 12 of the 2003 Apollo SL70 Installation Manual Post Installation
Checkout
1.
Put the unit in setup mode:
A. To operate the SL70 in the setup mode hold down the IDENT and ALT
buttons while turning the power on
2.
Turn the large knob to the SL70 config page
a. This should be one click clockwise and change from set up to SL70 config
3.
Using the small knob:
a. Turn to ASRC This is the altitude source page
b. The two choices for altitude INPUT are gray or serial
i. Unless Navworx can update its software to run at 1200 baud, an
encoder capable of gray code and or a serial to gray code convertor such as
Dynon Manufactures will
need to be used to interface with the SL70. The SL70 will only accept altitude
data from an encoder at 1200 baud.
ii. So at this point assuming you use the serial to gray converter,
set the input to GRAY by:
1. Press the ident button the serial or gray field will start to
flash
2. Set to gray if not already indicating gray
3. Press ident again to set into the memory if the setting was changed,
if not proceed
4.
Turn the small knob one click to set the baud rate
a. To select and change the baud rate, press the ident button once, the
baud rate field will start to flash
b. To interface with the Navworx unit, at present, the baud rate will need
to be set to 9,600
c. Turn the small knob until 9600 in displayed and press the ident button
again to set into memory
5.
Here is what is missing from the manual Turn the small knob clockwise one click
to the next input screen
a. The next screen is the TX screen The TX is for the message transmit
format used on the serial port
b. There are two options Standard STD and Extended EXT
c. Press the ident button to highlight the field. It will start to flash
d. Turn the small knob to set the EXT into the field
e. Press the ident button again to set the field
6.
Cycle the SL70 power off and turn back on. The SL70 is good to go and should
now be set up to control the Navworx unit
a. Using the maintenance port on the Navworx, set the Input screen to SL70
and DB37 pin 33.
I have not verified this from a functionality standpoint yet. In my installation,
the SL70 port referenced above is currently being used to provide altitude
data to my MX20 - so I have a couple of if scenarios.....:
If the baud rate on the SL70 port is currently at 9600 and if my MX20 ignores the
extended stuff and parses out just the altitude, I'm OK by simply forking the
serial output to both the MX20 and the ADS600B.
Otherwise, if the MX20 is version 5.6 or later, it should take altitude data along
with the Lat/Long it is already receiving from the 420W and freeing up the
port for dedicated communication with the ADS600B.
I prefer the latter - but I'll take whatever I can get!
Hope this helps - and thanks again to the NavWorx crew!
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | NavWorx ADS600B integration to Garmin based panel -> the saga |
continues
Folks,
Here's another update since getting the details on implementing the "Extended"
mode from the NavWorx folks:
I was able to get the SL70 configured for the "Extended" mode per their instructions.
The extended mode data did not interfere with passing altitude data to
the MX20 as currently connected.
Their additional requirements are causing some interoperability issues.... The
ADS600B requires the "Extended" mode output from the SL70 at 9600 baud - which
the SL70 is capable of delivering. The 9600 baud setting is not compatible with
the MX20 - which only allows 1200 baud communications. I have a note in to
NavWorx to see if they are going to allow 1200 baud in the future...I'm not
the only one with this issue!
As a potential workaround, I looked at the documentation for my GNC420W. It indicates
that it is capable of transmitting the altitude data to the MX20 along
with the existing connection that provides lat/long. I tried that too - it doesn't
work. I have a note in to Garmin to see if there is a configuration setting
that I missed or if there was a printing error.
If all else fails - throw money at it.....I can replace the installed altitude
encoder with one that has a 1200 baud serial port as well as the Gray code.
I'm starting to see why everyone is screaming about the cost vs benefit of ADS-B
in the first place.....
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bigdog(at)bentwing.com" <bigdog(at)bentwing.com> |
| Subject: | NavWorx ADS600B integration to Garmin based panel -> the |
saga continues
I was originally going to use their TransMonSPE instead of hard wiring to my transponder.
It's a device that clips over the transponder cable and picks up the
altitude and code from the RF leakage. Since it looked like I could wire everything
I backed off that but have that as an option if I hit the same snags as
you. It's fairly cheap, <$80 I think.
Greg Young
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2015 11:53 AM
Subject: RV-List: NavWorx ADS600B integration to Garmin based panel -> the saga
continues
Folks,
Here's another update since getting the details on implementing the "Extended"
mode from the NavWorx folks:
I was able to get the SL70 configured for the "Extended" mode per their instructions.
The extended mode data did not interfere with passing altitude data to
the MX20 as currently connected.
Their additional requirements are causing some interoperability issues.... The
ADS600B requires the "Extended" mode output from the SL70 at 9600 baud - which
the SL70 is capable of delivering. The 9600 baud setting is not compatible with
the MX20 - which only allows 1200 baud communications. I have a note in to
NavWorx to see if they are going to allow 1200 baud in the future...I'm not
the only one with this issue!
As a potential workaround, I looked at the documentation for my GNC420W. It indicates
that it is capable of transmitting the altitude data to the MX20 along
with the existing connection that provides lat/long. I tried that too - it doesn't
work. I have a note in to Garmin to see if there is a configuration setting
that I missed or if there was a printing error.
If all else fails - throw money at it.....I can replace the installed altitude
encoder with one that has a 1200 baud serial port as well as the Gray code.
I'm starting to see why everyone is screaming about the cost vs benefit of ADS-B
in the first place.....
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS600B integration to Garmin based panel -> the |
saga continues
An update from NavWorx - they support 1200 baud communications.
Should solve all of the issues I am experiencing!
-----Original Message-----
>From: "'Ralph E. Capen' recapen(at)earthlink.net [RV7A]" <RV7A(at)yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Feb 9, 2015 12:52 PM
>To: rv-list , "avionics-list(at)matronics.com"
>Cc: RV7 Yahoo list , EXP-AVIONICS
>Subject: [RV Builders] NavWorx ADS600B integration to Garmin based panel -> the
saga continues
>
>Folks,
>
>Here's another update since getting the details on implementing the "Extended"
mode from the NavWorx folks:
>
>I was able to get the SL70 configured for the "Extended" mode per their instructions.
The extended mode data did not interfere with passing altitude data to
the MX20 as currently connected.
>
>Their additional requirements are causing some interoperability issues.... The
ADS600B requires the "Extended" mode output from the SL70 at 9600 baud - which
the SL70 is capable of delivering. The 9600 baud setting is not compatible
with the MX20 - which only allows 1200 baud communications. I have a note in
to NavWorx to see if they are going to allow 1200 baud in the future...I'm not
the only one with this issue!
>
>As a potential workaround, I looked at the documentation for my GNC420W. It indicates
that it is capable of transmitting the altitude data to the MX20 along
with the existing connection that provides lat/long. I tried that too - it
doesn't work. I have a note in to Garmin to see if there is a configuration setting
that I missed or if there was a printing error.
>
>If all else fails - throw money at it.....I can replace the installed altitude
encoder with one that has a 1200 baud serial port as well as the Gray code.
>
>I'm starting to see why everyone is screaming about the cost vs benefit of ADS-B
in the first place.....
>
>Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
Wanted to update the list with the following, the Airport Courtesy Car app as of
this date has over 1300 listings nationwide with over 5000 pilots that have
downloaded the app. It continues to be covered by major publications. Since
AvWeb covered it and AOPA Pilot magazine in the February issue, it has most recently
been favored by G.A. News. Also I can now upload pictures of your favorite
crew cars to the state listings, so email those pictures to me at airportcars101(at)gmail.com.
And keep those entries coming!
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
1952 Piper Tri-Pacer
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Tucson, Arizona
Owner, www.RVairspace.com and "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App
www.RVairspace.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438391#438391
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NavWorx ADS600B integration to Garmin based panel -> the |
saga continues
| From: | David Leonard <wdleonard(at)gmail.com> |
I have the TransMonSPE and it works great! Very easy to install.
Dave Leonard
On Mon, Feb 9, 2015 at 10:13 AM, bigdog(at)bentwing.com
wrote:
>
> I was originally going to use their TransMonSPE instead of hard wiring to
> my transponder. It's a device that clips over the transponder cable and
> picks up the altitude and code from the RF leakage. Since it looked like I
> could wire everything I backed off that but have that as an option if I hit
> the same snags as you. It's fairly cheap, <$80 I think.
>
> Greg Young
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
> Sent: Monday, February 09, 2015 11:53 AM
> To: rv-list; avionics-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: NavWorx ADS600B integration to Garmin based panel -> the
> saga continues
>
>
> Folks,
>
> Here's another update since getting the details on implementing the
> "Extended" mode from the NavWorx folks:
>
> I was able to get the SL70 configured for the "Extended" mode per their
> instructions. The extended mode data did not interfere with passing
> altitude data to the MX20 as currently connected.
>
> Their additional requirements are causing some interoperability issues....
> The ADS600B requires the "Extended" mode output from the SL70 at 9600 baud
> - which the SL70 is capable of delivering. The 9600 baud setting is not
> compatible with the MX20 - which only allows 1200 baud communications. I
> have a note in to NavWorx to see if they are going to allow 1200 baud in
> the future...I'm not the only one with this issue!
>
> As a potential workaround, I looked at the documentation for my GNC420W.
> It indicates that it is capable of transmitting the altitude data to the
> MX20 along with the existing connection that provides lat/long. I tried
> that too - it doesn't work. I have a note in to Garmin to see if there is
> a configuration setting that I missed or if there was a printing error.
>
> If all else fails - throw money at it.....I can replace the installed
> altitude encoder with one that has a 1200 baud serial port as well as the
> Gray code.
>
> I'm starting to see why everyone is screaming about the cost vs benefit of
> ADS-B in the first place.....
>
> Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New (Free) Aviation App |
| From: | "gbrasch" <gmbrasch(at)gmail.com> |
Now approaching 6000 pilots using the app with over 1350 listings, and a recent
review on the EAA website. And in a feeble attempt to recoup my costs, I am
now offering very reasonably priced ad's for aviation related businesses as I
keep my word to keep this app free for pilots. If you or someone you know may
be interested, please email me at airportcars101(at)gmail.com for rates. And please
tell your FBO where you found them. Thank you. Glenn
--------
Glenn Brasch
RV-9A Flying
1952 Piper Tri-Pacer
Medevac Helicopter Pilot (Ret)
Tucson, Arizona
Owner, www.RVairspace.com and "Airport Courtesy Cars" Smart Phone App
www.RVairspace.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438836#438836
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
Anyone else using an Infinity grip switch to actuate a S702 starter relay?
According to the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are rated at
6Amp.
>From the B and C site, the S702 has a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at 14volts works
out
to 5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would provide less at cranking
time.
The numbers say it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone is doing it
for
real - and how is it working for you?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
Ralph. I would recommend you look at our Smartstart module for doing this function
if you want to use the stick grip switch to drive the start contactor.
The switches used in the stick grip may be rated at 6 amps, but that would be
for a resistive load. The start contactor is an inductive load and has a significantly
different effect in switches than a pure resistor.
Additionally, our module has a built in one minute timer and an interlock feature,
making the stick grip starting concept safer and more useful.
All the info is at www.tcwtech.com
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies, LLC
610-928-3420
> On Mar 3, 2015, at 8:07 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
>
> Anyone else using an Infinity grip switch to actuate a S702 starter relay?
>
> According to the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are rated
at 6Amp.
>> From the B and C site, the S702 has a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at 14volts works
out
> to 5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would provide less at
cranking
> time.
>
> The numbers say it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone is doing
it for
> real - and how is it working for you?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
Interesting - I'll look in to this....
How many are out there interfacing the Infinity grip switch to the Starter relay?
Still want to hear if anyone is using my stated configuration though....
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
>From: Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2015 8:30 AM
>To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>
>
>Ralph. I would recommend you look at our Smartstart module for doing this function
if you want to use the stick grip switch to drive the start contactor.
The switches used in the stick grip may be rated at 6 amps, but that would be
for a resistive load. The start contactor is an inductive load and has a significantly
different effect in switches than a pure resistor.
>Additionally, our module has a built in one minute timer and an interlock feature,
making the stick grip starting concept safer and more useful.
>
>All the info is at www.tcwtech.com
>
>
>Bob Newman
>TCW Technologies, LLC
>610-928-3420
>
>> On Mar 3, 2015, at 8:07 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone else using an Infinity grip switch to actuate a S702 starter relay?
>>
>> According to the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are rated
at 6Amp.
>>> From the B and C site, the S702 has a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at 14volts
works out
>> to 5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would provide less at
cranking
>> time.
>>
>> The numbers say it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone is doing
it for
>> real - and how is it working for you?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph Capen
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
Ralph, you may find some folks that are using the infinity switch direct
for the starter contactor but our fleet is relatively young. Problems
won't surface 'till down the road a ways. My start switch is is on the
key so I didn't have your same situation. However, it's far better to
wire in a relay now than later, IMHO.
My question is why put the starter on the grip anyway? You only use it
once each flight and typically don't need to have your hand on the grip
at that time. Plus, what keeps you from accidentally hitting that
switch while you're in the air???
Linn
On 3/3/2015 8:48 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>
> Interesting - I'll look in to this....
> How many are out there interfacing the Infinity grip switch to the Starter relay?
>
> Still want to hear if anyone is using my stated configuration though....
>
> Thanks
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
>> Sent: Mar 3, 2015 8:30 AM
>> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>>
>>
>> Ralph. I would recommend you look at our Smartstart module for doing this function
if you want to use the stick grip switch to drive the start contactor.
The switches used in the stick grip may be rated at 6 amps, but that would
be for a resistive load. The start contactor is an inductive load and has a
significantly different effect in switches than a pure resistor.
>> Additionally, our module has a built in one minute timer and an interlock feature,
making the stick grip starting concept safer and more useful.
>>
>> All the info is at www.tcwtech.com
>>
>>
>> Bob Newman
>> TCW Technologies, LLC
>> 610-928-3420
>>
>>> On Mar 3, 2015, at 8:07 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyone else using an Infinity grip switch to actuate a S702 starter relay?
>>>
>>> According to the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are rated
at 6Amp.
>>>> From the B and C site, the S702 has a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at 14volts
works out
>>> to 5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would provide less at
cranking
>>> time.
>>>
>>> The numbers say it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone is doing
it for
>>> real - and how is it working for you?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ralph Capen
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)EARTHLINK.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
Linn,
Good points made!
I currently have it on a relay that the hand-grip activates with a safety interlock
switch - my line of thinking is to simplify by removing the relay and driving it
direct.
My initial line of thinking for putting it on the hand-grip was for an in-flight
restart -
which would require one hand on the stick while the other works throttle and mixture.
What I currently have works very well - but it is complex and I am trying to simplify...
Looking for evidence of the problem you alluded to.
Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Linn Walters <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2015 9:20 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>
>
>Ralph, you may find some folks that are using the infinity switch direct
>for the starter contactor but our fleet is relatively young. Problems
>won't surface 'till down the road a ways. My start switch is is on the
>key so I didn't have your same situation. However, it's far better to
>wire in a relay now than later, IMHO.
>
>My question is why put the starter on the grip anyway? You only use it
>once each flight and typically don't need to have your hand on the grip
>at that time. Plus, what keeps you from accidentally hitting that
>switch while you're in the air???
>Linn
>
>On 3/3/2015 8:48 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Interesting - I'll look in to this....
>> How many are out there interfacing the Infinity grip switch to the Starter relay?
>>
>> Still want to hear if anyone is using my stated configuration though....
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
>>> Sent: Mar 3, 2015 8:30 AM
>>> To: "rv-list(at)matronics.com"
>>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>>>
>>>
>>> Ralph. I would recommend you look at our Smartstart module for doing this
function if you want to use the stick grip switch to drive the start contactor.
The switches used in the stick grip may be rated at 6 amps, but that would
be for a resistive load. The start contactor is an inductive load and has
a significantly different effect in switches than a pure resistor.
>>> Additionally, our module has a built in one minute timer and an interlock feature,
making the stick grip starting concept safer and more useful.
>>>
>>> All the info is at www.tcwtech.com
>>>
>>>
>>> Bob Newman
>>> TCW Technologies, LLC
>>> 610-928-3420
>>>
>>>> On Mar 3, 2015, at 8:07 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Anyone else using an Infinity grip switch to actuate a S702 starter relay?
>>>>
>>>> According to the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are rated
at 6Amp.
>>>>> From the B and C site, the S702 has a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at 14volts
works out
>>>> to 5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would provide less
at cranking
>>>> time.
>>>>
>>>> The numbers say it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone is doing
it for
>>>> real - and how is it working for you?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Ralph Capen
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
| From: | "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com> |
I agree with Linn and others concerning the need for a relay. I wish I had used
one of my Infinity Grip buttons for starting. I do want to hold the stick when
starting, and I find that for activating my start button, manipulating mixture
and throttle, and holding the stick, I am short one hand. (especially starting
when the engine is hot) In my case, the VP-200 would take care of the issue
of activating the starter when you don't want it activated. Otherwise, I would
use Bob's TcwTech start protection switch.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438936#438936
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
Ralph,
On the RV-8A the first version had the bottom push button on the stick being
the start button, providing power to the starter solenoid. This button does
not have the capacity to operate the starter solenoid directly. I installed
a small 12VDC relay (100ma coil, ~$1.50 from Allied Electronics) in the
circuit such that the stick button operated the relay, the relay then
provided power to the starter solenoid.
But - this setup was quickly changed as twice during the first flights I
inadvertently bumped the stick start button while the engine was running. I
kept the relay set up and just added a small momentary pushbutton out of the
way at the top of the right side switch/breaker panel to use instead of the
stick button.
On the RV-10 I just used the standard 10amp panel pushbutton for engine
start to directly provide power to the starter solenoid.
Bottom line - recommend not using the stick buttons to operate the starter
solenoid.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:08 AM
Subject: RV-List: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
Anyone else using an Infinity grip switch to actuate a S702 starter relay?
According to the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are rated
at 6Amp.
>From the B and C site, the S702 has a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at
>14volts works out
to 5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would provide less at
cranking time.
The numbers say it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone is doing
it for real - and how is it working for you?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
Carl,
Thanks for your input.
I have a secondary safety switch to prevent the accidental activation along
with the relay like you described currently installed.
My intent was to simplify by removing the relay. Sounds like my best bet
is to leave it as is! It works great for me.....
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2015 9:54 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com, aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>
>
>Ralph,
>
>On the RV-8A the first version had the bottom push button on the stick being
>the start button, providing power to the starter solenoid. This button does
>not have the capacity to operate the starter solenoid directly. I installed
>a small 12VDC relay (100ma coil, ~$1.50 from Allied Electronics) in the
>circuit such that the stick button operated the relay, the relay then
>provided power to the starter solenoid.
>
>But - this setup was quickly changed as twice during the first flights I
>inadvertently bumped the stick start button while the engine was running. I
>kept the relay set up and just added a small momentary pushbutton out of the
>way at the top of the right side switch/breaker panel to use instead of the
>stick button.
>
>On the RV-10 I just used the standard 10amp panel pushbutton for engine
>start to directly provide power to the starter solenoid.
>
>Bottom line - recommend not using the stick buttons to operate the starter
>solenoid.
>
>Carl
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ralph E. Capen
>Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2015 8:08 AM
>To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list
>Subject: RV-List: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>
>
>Anyone else using an Infinity grip switch to actuate a S702 starter relay?
>
>According to the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are rated
>at 6Amp.
>>From the B and C site, the S702 has a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at
>>14volts works out
>to 5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would provide less at
>cranking time.
>
>The numbers say it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone is doing
>it for real - and how is it working for you?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
David,
Thanks for the info. I'll probably leave mine as is since the relay and safety
switch work well!
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
>Sent: Mar 3, 2015 9:53 AM
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>
>
>I agree with Linn and others concerning the need for a relay. I wish I had used
one of my Infinity Grip buttons for starting. I do want to hold the stick when
starting, and I find that for activating my start button, manipulating mixture
and throttle, and holding the stick, I am short one hand. (especially starting
when the engine is hot) In my case, the VP-200 would take care of the issue
of activating the starter when you don't want it activated. Otherwise, I would
use Bob's TcwTech start protection switch.
>
>--------
>David Maib
>RV-10 #40559
>New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438936#438936
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
This post since it was cross posted, may not have gotten
the same follow-up on all lists, but I'll add my reply
to another poster's comment on prop windmilling being
enough in-flight...
---
I know in my case I've done complete mixture cut-off tests
in the plane where I've stopped the engine completely,
and also flown it dry on tanks for testing, and the prop
keeps spinning so fast that you may even perceive that
the engine is still making power. You just feel the loss
of thrust. So unless you happen to pull the nose up and
near-stall the plane, I doubt the starter will ever need to
be cranked to re-start. For me, as soon as the fuel
supply was there again, it roared back to life.
Also, the start operation isn't *that* complicated.
I understand the want to have a hand on the stick
and one on the throttle/mixture, but my knees do a fine
job of holding the stick for a normal start.
Additionally, if the plane is in trim, I don't see
the worry about holding the stick with a hand
while doing that once-in-a-hundred-years in-flight
restart that you may do. The knees would do ok
there too, but in actuality, you're not going to be
manipulating the mixture and throttle much if you're
doing an in-flight start. It's not like you'll be
doing a hot-start procedure at 7,000'.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving |
S702 starter relay
I guess I am missing the need for any of this. In flight use of
starter?? Maybe if you had a full feathering prop, otherwise the prop is
your starter, just push the nose over. Need to hold stick while
starting? Unless you are facing into winds that approach rotation
speed, what does holding the stick accomplish? While some like switches
for mags.EI and a button for starting, the old twist to start ignition
switch does simply things a lot. Unless you have 3 hands, you are always
going to need one to activate starter and one on the throttle/mixture
knobs. I guess having button on stick lets you use one hand to holde
stick and activate starter with the other on throttle, but I still don't
see the need to hold the stick. It is the brakes that will hold the
plane from going anywhere. If wind is strong enough to need stick input,
you probably need wing walkers to keep the wing tips and wheels near the
ground.
On 3/3/2015 8:16 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>
>
> David,
>
> Thanks for the info. I'll probably leave mine as is since the relay and safety
switch work well!
>
> Ralph
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: "dmaib(at)me.com" <dmaib(at)me.com>
>> Sent: Mar 3, 2015 9:53 AM
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay
>>
>>
>> I agree with Linn and others concerning the need for a relay. I wish I had used
one of my Infinity Grip buttons for starting. I do want to hold the stick
when starting, and I find that for activating my start button, manipulating mixture
and throttle, and holding the stick, I am short one hand. (especially starting
when the engine is hot) In my case, the VP-200 would take care of the issue
of activating the starter when you don't want it activated. Otherwise, I
would use Bob's TcwTech start protection switch.
>>
>> --------
>> David Maib
>> RV-10 #40559
>> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438936#438936
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay |
| From: | vanremog(at)aol.com |
=0AIt may also be an AC rating. DC is significantly harde
r on contacts during switching. The combination of DC switc
hing and collapsing flux field from a large inductive would
be death fro the switch. In DC applications always ensure
that you have a back biased catch diode installed across an
inductive load or the back EMF can take out the switching
component in short order.=0A=0A-GV=0A =0A =0A-----Original Message--
---=0AFrom: Tcwtech <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>=0ATo: rv-list <rv-list@matroni
cs.com>=0ASent: Tue, Mar 3, 2015 5:32 am=0ASubject: Re: RV-List:
Infinity grip switch driving S702 starter relay=0A=0A=0A--> RV-
List message posted by: Tcwtech =0A=0ARalph.
I would recommend you look at our Smartstart module for doin
g this =0Afunction if you want to use the stick grip switc
h to drive the start contactor. =0AThe switches used
in the stick grip may be rated at 6 amps, but that would
be =0Afor a resistive load. The start contactor is an
inductive load and has a =0Asignificantly different effect in
switches than a pure resistor. =0AAdditionally, our module
has a built in one minute timer and an interlock =0Afeature,
making the stick grip starting concept safer and more usefu
l. =0A=0AAll the info is at www.tcwtech.com =0A=0A=0ABob Newm
an=0ATCW Technologies, LLC=0A610-928-3420=0A=0A> On Mar 3, 2015, a
t 8:07 AM, Ralph E. Capen wrote:=0A> =0A
thlink.net>=0A> =0A> =0A> Anyone else using an Infinity grip s
witch to actuate a S702 starter relay?=0A> =0A> According to
the specs of the Infinity grip switches, the contacts are ra
ted =0Aat 6Amp.=0A>> From the B and C site, the S702 has
a 2.5Ohm coil - so the math at 14volts =0Aworks out=0A> to
5.6Amps...and that would be a max since the battery would
provide less at =0Acranking =0A> time.=0A> =0A> The numbers sa
y it should be OK - I'm looking to find out if anyone
is doing =0Ait for =0A> real - and how is it working for
you?=0A> =0A> Thanks,=0A> Ralph Capen=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
===========================
======================0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | d wntzl <dwntzl(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/15/15 |
Lycoming Cylinder problem
Hello fellow RV'rs, =C2-Looking for advice, here's my situation \ problem
. (I have an RV6, w an 0-320 A2B which was installed rebuilt, modified to 1
60 HP, during construction about 700 hrs ago). It has been running great, b
ut I have been seeing =C2-a couple of small oil leaks, (which have gotten
to be quite annoying.) While doing an oil change recently, I discovered on
e of the top cylinder bolts (small one - not the larger thru bolts) had she
ared off. I had not done anything to it whatsoever, nor was there any evide
nce of looseness or an oil leak in that area, the broken part was just sitt
ing there, I then jiggled the other upper bolts by hand and =C2-. . . 2 o
f them were just finger tight!. =C2-Someone (a local A&P) suggested that
a good welder could weld a nut to the broken stud and remove it that way -
but that sounds way to "scary" to me.=C2-=C2- =C2- Any advice appreci
ated. Also . . . is the plane grounded until the repair??=C2- =C2-Thank
s in advance=C2- =C2-David Wentzell - =C2-N233DW
On Monday, March 16, 2015 3:24 AM, RV-List Digest Server wrote:
*
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Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
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ted
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=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/15/15 |
I'll defer to the guru mechanics out there, but if it was my plane the
engine would get pulled, disassembled and repaired as needed. I would
assume other bolts that had taken up the load of those bolts that you found
loose had deformed - and perhaps this is what caused your sheared bolt.
Note - Mike Busch has voiced his opinion (which I agree with) that engine
cylinders cannot be properly removed/replace without removing the engine
from the aircraft as this impedes achieving correct cylinder bolt torque.
Carl
From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of d wntzl
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2015 12:45 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/15/15
Lycoming Cylinder problem
Hello fellow RV'rs, Looking for advice, here's my situation \ problem. (I
have an RV6, w an 0-320 A2B which was installed rebuilt, modified to 160 HP,
during construction about 700 hrs ago). It has been running great, but I
have been seeing a couple of small oil leaks, (which have gotten to be
quite annoying.) While doing an oil change recently, I discovered one of the
top cylinder bolts (small one - not the larger thru bolts) had sheared off.
I had not done anything to it whatsoever, nor was there any evidence of
looseness or an oil leak in that area, the broken part was just sitting
there, I then jiggled the other upper bolts by hand and . . . 2 of them
were just finger tight!. Someone (a local A&P) suggested that a good welder
could weld a nut to the broken stud and remove it that way - but that sounds
way to "scary" to me.
Any advice appreciated. Also . . . is the plane grounded until the
repair??
Thanks in advance
David Wentzell - N233DW
On Monday, March 16, 2015 3:24 AM, RV-List Digest Server
wrote:
*
========================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
========================
Today's complete RV-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the RV-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapte
r 15-03-15&Archive=RV> &View=html&Chapter 15-03-15&Archive=RV
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701
<http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
15-03-15&Archive=RV> &View=txt&Chapter 15-03-15&Archive=RV
======================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
======================
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RV-List Digest Archive
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Total Messages Posted Sun 03/15/15: 0
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June 29, 2014 - March 16, 2015
RV-Archive.digest.vol-vu