RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ac
March 23, 2005 - April 04, 2005
I can't remember the exact number, but I talked to Oregon Aero last year about
rear seats, and they mentioned a pretty competitive price for the rear seat foam
set (uncovered).
TDT
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) |
| Subject: | Seat upholstery pricing |
I asked this very question to Abby directly, here's her response:
Hi Bob, I was going to e-mail you this week. Yes, I have just gotten the
patterns done to make the front seat covers. I am still working on the
rear seats, the design is very similar to the front seats of the 7 and 9,
so I went with the pricing that I charge for those.
Leather is an option. I haven't made a set with leather yet,
so I can't honestly tell you the weight difference. It would be $500 more
for the set in leather.
The rear seats will be made from a high quality Fire Rated
foam with a top layer of visco-elastic foam for comfort.
As far as the sidewall pieces go, I don't have anything to
pattern yet. But I can supply anything that you would need as far as fabric,
carpet and floor foam in raw materials.
I may not have a complete interior yet but the front seats
will get you flying. These can be installed by you, so you won't have to
send the seats.
I am hoping to have new pictures on my website by the end of
the week. There will be three seat styles to choose from.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks, Abby
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
Randy
Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for the other
RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail in covering everything
is incredible. I want her to do my entire interior, and was wondering
how far off from a complete line she will be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I have received the selling prices back from Abby at Flightline Interiors.
Front seats: $650.00 a pair in cloth, vinyl, or combination like I have.
Rear sears: $675.00 a pair and that includes the foam.
Here is the link to her site. http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/ 262-364-6166
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 customer number |
Seat upholstery pricingfor those who are interested
tail kit ordered 3/21/05 and the kit serial number is 376
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I bought my rear seat foam at Hi Tech Foam in Nebraska. After talking with Abby
I would have just bought it from here. I think I have 200.00 in rear seat
foam and won't have that many butts in them. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 8:37 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I can't remember the exact number, but I talked to Oregon Aero last year about
rear seats, and they mentioned a pretty competitive price for the rear seat
foam set (uncovered).
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 10:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I asked this very question to Abby directly, here's her response:
Hi Bob, I was going to e-mail you this week. Yes, I have just gotten the
patterns done to make the front seat covers. I am still working on the
rear seats, the design is very similar to the front seats of the 7 and 9,
so I went with the pricing that I charge for those.
Leather is an option. I haven't made a set with leather yet,
so I can't honestly tell you the weight difference. It would be $500 more
for the set in leather.
The rear seats will be made from a high quality Fire Rated
foam with a top layer of visco-elastic foam for comfort.
As far as the sidewall pieces go, I don't have anything to
pattern yet. But I can supply anything that you would need as far as fabric,
carpet and floor foam in raw materials.
I may not have a complete interior yet but the front seats
will get you flying. These can be installed by you, so you won't have to
send the seats.
I am hoping to have new pictures on my website by the end of
the week. There will be three seat styles to choose from.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks, Abby
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 8:58 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
Randy
Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for
the other RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail in covering
everything is incredible. I want her to do my entire interior, and was wondering
how far off from a complete line she will be, by using yours, we are
all benefiting.
THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
Dan
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 1:08 PM
To: Rv10-List (E-mail)
Subject: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I have received the selling prices back from Abby at Flightline Interiors.
Front seats: $650.00 a pair in cloth, vinyl, or combination like I have.
Rear sears: $675.00 a pair and that includes the foam.
Here is the link to her site. http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/ 262-364-6166
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 customer number |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
All right! 376 kits! If we keep this up, we can pass the RV-7 guys . . . :
)
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of son hoang
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 customer number
for those who are interested
tail kit ordered 3/21/05 and the kit serial number is 376
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I bought my rear seat foam at Hi Tech Foam in Nebraska. After talking with Abby
I would have just bought it from here. I think I have 200.00 in rear seat foam
and won't have that many butts in them. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I can't remember the exact number, but I talked to Oregon Aero last year about
rear seats, and they mentioned a pretty competitive price for the rear seat foam
set (uncovered).
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I asked this very question to Abby directly, here's her response:
Hi Bob, I was going to e-mail you this week. Yes, I have just gotten the
patterns done to make the front seat covers. I am still working on the
rear seats, the design is very similar to the front seats of the 7 and 9,
so I went with the pricing that I charge for those.
Leather is an option. I haven't made a set with leather yet,
so I can't honestly tell you the weight difference. It would be $500 more
for the set in leather.
The rear seats will be made from a high quality Fire Rated
foam with a top layer of visco-elastic foam for comfort.
As far as the sidewall pieces go, I don't have anything to
pattern yet. But I can supply anything that you would need as far as fabric,
carpet and floor foam in raw materials.
I may not have a complete interior yet but the front seats
will get you flying. These can be installed by you, so you won't have to
send the seats.
I am hoping to have new pictures on my website by the end of
the week. There will be three seat styles to choose from.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks, Abby
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
Randy
Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for the other
RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail in covering everything
is incredible. I want her to do my entire interior, and was wondering
how far off from a complete line she will be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Seat upholstery pricing
I have received the selling prices back from Abby at Flightline Interiors.
Front seats: $650.00 a pair in cloth, vinyl, or combination like I have.
Rear sears: $675.00 a pair and that includes the foam.
Here is the link to her site. http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/ 262-364-6166
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
I just finished rigging the aileron on my right wing. When I was
finished, I noticed that at full up deflection, the aileron doesn't hit
the stop on the aileron hinge bracket. Right before it gets there, the
aileron to bellcrank pushrod binds up on the edge of the hole in the
rear spar. Same thing at full down; it binds against the side of the
hole before the nose of the aileron hits the gap fairing.
I double checked twice to make sure everything was adjusted properly at
neutral.
I can't imagine the ailerons ever being deflected that much during
flight, but I also don't want my pushrod rubbing against the rear spar
either. Is this normal, or do I need to take it all apart and enlarge
the hole? Or is there something else I'm missing?
Thanks,
PJ
40032
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
Test message.
Moving to this list forum too!
JimC
#40192 - Finishing Wings
Lexington, Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
R3JlYXQsIHdlbGNvbWUgYWJvYXJkIQ0KIA0KQm9iICM0MDEwNQ0KDQoJLS0tLS1PcmlnaW5hbCBN
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Cg0KDQo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
Here from Yahoo.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Finishing Wings / Fuse ordered
Lexington, Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | wingtip rib installation |
Note that the picture on Section 24 is incorrect. The picture shows the left wing
and tip. The picture shows installation of the W-1016-L in the left wing tip
(flange outboard). The correct rib to install there is the W-1016-R (right flange
as seen from top view fore to aft, flange inboard (in this case "right").
Van's explanation is that the ribs are labeled left and right, not for which
wing the inhabit but which way the flange extends. Anyway the Section 24 picture
is wrong and your tips will reflex the wrong direction if installed according
to the picture.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
Hi All
I went to Aurora, OR to visit the Vans factory and test flew the RV10
(N410RV) last week
I did this on purpose so I would have the opportunity to really check out
the plane instead of test flying it in the chaotic environment of an air
show
I was very impressed with the smoothness of the IO540 6 cylinders engine and
the blended airfoil 2 blade prop
Gus (company pilot) and I carried out a conversation without the headset
when the engine was at idle ...we did not have to raise our voice...how nice
we did not use the noise canceling headset (Vans' standard issue !!) ...no
problem...
even with minimal insulation (i.e.. none) the plane noticeably lacked the
vibration that I was accustomed to in many RVs that I had the opportunity to
fly in....
it must be the 6 cylinders engine
410RV climbed out at about 1700 fpm @ 140 mph with Gus (company pilot - tall
and probably about 175 lbs) and I (150 lbs) with the tanks more than half
full
at 3500 ft as soon as I leveled the plane with 24 in. and 2500 rpm it
accelerated to about 185-190 mph indicated..Gus commented that 410RV is as
fast or even faster than 200 hp RV7...and based on my brief experience I
believe him....I was too busy to take note of more performance numbers but
this plane was fast and powerful
stalls and slow flight are straight forward and benign just like an
RV9...controls are heavier than the 6A that I normally fly..that's by
design..these 10 really are meant for cross country and certainly suitable
for everyday IFR flying ...the flare to landing required almost full aft
stick (Gus even put some ballast in the baggage area) ...it was nose
heavy......
Rob Butt (factory tech counselor) took me for a tour of the factory (I did
this same tour 2 years ago before I built the 6A)..
the company now employs about 70 people and I believe Rob told me it is now
30 % owned by employees (I like that ownership concept)
what impressed me most was the improvement in the kit and the manual and
construction instructions...I used to envy the Lanceair guys for the quality
of their construction manuals....
well envy no more...... Vans finally catch up to the 21st century with the
RV10 construction manuals
you no longer have to do the wing incident angle...the alignment
holes are prepunched resulting in much more accurate measurement and much
time saving..the tail/fuselage fairings fit much much better...the
intersection fairings between the fuselage and the gear are now included in
the kit...the standard instrument panel comes in 3 sections so installation
and servicing radios will be easy
etc. etc. etc.
you do not have to make reservation for the factory tour or the demo flight
....just show up during working hours and request one
for the demo flight on the RV10 a $50 fee is charged ...it is credited back
when you buy the kit
I paid the $50 in cash....as much as I was in love with the plane I did not
order a kit ....I was disciplined I did not want to buy on impulse..
there needs to be a cooling off period.....
well the 3 days cooling off period was over.... I ordered an RV10 tail kit
last Monday 3/21/05...it is scheduled to deliver to my hangar at WHP next
Wed 03/30/05
I am now a repeat offender (enjoy a 3% discount off the airframe cost)
sorry for the long post
Son Hoang
N64SH -flying 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Thanks for the great, comprehensive and useful post.
Are we having fun over hear at Matronics yet?.
Thanks Son and Tim
John - KUAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of son hoang
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 impression
Hi All
I went to Aurora, OR to visit the Vans factory and test flew the RV10
(N410RV) last week
I did this on purpose so I would have the opportunity to really check out
the plane instead of test flying it in the chaotic environment of an air
show
I was very impressed with the smoothness of the IO540 6 cylinders engine and
the blended airfoil 2 blade prop
Gus (company pilot) and I carried out a conversation without the headset
when the engine was at idle ...we did not have to raise our voice...how
nice
we did not use the noise canceling headset (Vans' standard issue !!) ...no
problem...
even with minimal insulation (i.e.. none) the plane noticeably lacked the
vibration that I was accustomed to in many RVs that I had the opportunity
to
fly in....
it must be the 6 cylinders engine
410RV climbed out at about 1700 fpm @ 140 mph with Gus (company pilot - tall
and probably about 175 lbs) and I (150 lbs) with the tanks more than half
full
at 3500 ft as soon as I leveled the plane with 24 in. and 2500 rpm it
accelerated to about 185-190 mph indicated..Gus commented that 410RV is as
fast or even faster than 200 hp RV7...and based on my brief experience I
believe him....I was too busy to take note of more performance numbers but
this plane was fast and powerful
stalls and slow flight are straight forward and benign just like an
RV9...controls are heavier than the 6A that I normally fly..that's by
design..these 10 really are meant for cross country and certainly suitable
for everyday IFR flying ...the flare to landing required almost full aft
stick (Gus even put some ballast in the baggage area) ...it was nose
heavy......
Rob Butt (factory tech counselor) took me for a tour of the factory (I did
this same tour 2 years ago before I built the 6A)..
the company now employs about 70 people and I believe Rob told me it is now
30 % owned by employees (I like that ownership concept)
what impressed me most was the improvement in the kit and the manual and
construction instructions...I used to envy the Lanceair guys for the
quality
of their construction manuals....
well envy no more...... Vans finally catch up to the 21st century with the
RV10 construction manuals
you no longer have to do the wing incident angle...the alignment
holes are prepunched resulting in much more accurate measurement and much
time saving..the tail/fuselage fairings fit much much better...the
intersection fairings between the fuselage and the gear are now included in
the kit...the standard instrument panel comes in 3 sections so installation
and servicing radios will be easy
etc. etc. etc.
you do not have to make reservation for the factory tour or the demo flight
....just show up during working hours and request one
for the demo flight on the RV10 a $50 fee is charged ...it is credited back
when you buy the kit
I paid the $50 in cash....as much as I was in love with the plane I did not
order a kit ....I was disciplined I did not want to buy on impulse..
there needs to be a cooling off period.....
well the 3 days cooling off period was over.... I ordered an RV10 tail kit
last Monday 3/21/05...it is scheduled to deliver to my hangar at WHP next
Wed 03/30/05
I am now a repeat offender (enjoy a 3% discount off the airframe cost)
sorry for the long post
Son Hoang
N64SH -flying 6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
$7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
Any thoughts?
Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
Are you telling us you have to drill the gear leg Holes ??
We had to do this on the 6 Tail ...pain in the but.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
>
>
> Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
> for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
> bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
> I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
> $7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
> that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
> they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com |
| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
I'm using that exact primer on my interior. The one reason I use it is
easy prep and cleanup. And the price ends up being about the same when
I get a discount for buying a case of cans when compared to buying the
equivalent in a quart can.
-Sean #40303
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
>
>Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kent Forsythe
>HS Skins
>40338
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sean,
Out of curiosity, what steps are you going through to prep before spraying? What
product are you using to clean/degrease?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
I'm using that exact primer on my interior. The one reason I use it is
easy prep and cleanup. And the price ends up being about the same when
I get a discount for buying a case of cans when compared to buying the
equivalent in a quart can.
-Sean #40303
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
>
>Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
>
>Thoughts?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Kent Forsythe
>HS Skins
>40338
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Oke <wjoke(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
Hi Kent;
Yes, I used about two dozen rattle cans of this stuff while constructing an
RV-6A a few years ago.
Good points: easy to apply in small amounts to things like detail parts,
quick drying (dries to touch in 10 mins or so depending on temp, etc.;
overnight or several days to develop full toughness), convenient (no
compressor to deal with, no gun clean up), not too much waste, do not need
elaborate breathing protection (compared to the more aggressive primers)
Less good points: harder to get a nice even looking appearance on large
areas such as panels, only moderately scratch resistant even after full
drying (compared to some other priming systems), may not be a complete
moisture seal against salt water environments, etc.
Overall I was happy to use it as a simple, cost-effective, solution for an
amateur construction RV project. It met my needs for primer protection in a
relatively dry temperate climate. Bought it in case lots from a local
aircraft supply place. Apparently the pros use it locally for touch ups and
simple repairs.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
>
> Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on
> using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm
> not at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here
> and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all
> interior parts.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kent Forsythe
> HS Skins
> 40338
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
I am using ScotchBrite on the surfaces, followed by a cleaning with
Acetone or MEK prior to spraying.
-Sean
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>Sean,
>
>Out of curiosity, what steps are you going through to prep before spraying? What
product are you using to clean/degrease?
>
>Bob #40105
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 8:55 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
>
>
>I'm using that exact primer on my interior. The one reason I use it is
>easy prep and cleanup. And the price ends up being about the same when
>I get a discount for buying a case of cans when compared to buying the
>equivalent in a quart can.
>
>-Sean #40303
>
>matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
>>
>>Thoughts?
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>
>>Kent Forsythe
>>HS Skins
>>40338
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I think all off the single part self etching primers are about the same. I've
used DuPont's (expensive @ $19 for a 12oz can) and Marhyde (about $11 for a 19oz
can) and I really don't see a difference in performance. Neither will compare
to the two part primers in adhesion or durability. I don't know about the
two parts, but I can tell you that the one parts will wipe right off if you hit
them with MEK.
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on using
Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not at all
familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and some RV8 builders
in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
Chris: Only drill a single hole thru the gear mount tube for a cross
bolt that holds the leg in the mount tube. But the drill size is
special; so I thought if one builder had tracked it down, several of us
could share the bit (easy to mail).
Phil #40220
RV10-List Digest Server wrote on 3/24/2005, 1:57 AM:
> >
>
> Are you telling us you have to drill the gear leg Holes ??
> We had to do this on the 6 Tail ...pain in the but.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I used 5/16 and you almost have to drive the bolt in. Be very careful when drilling
to keep from over sizing. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
$7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
Any thoughts?
Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline |
Randy, Dan: I just spoke to Abby at Flightline, as I am only an hour's
drive from her. I have my -10 fuse about 50% complete, so Abby is
planning to drive here to look it over, make patterns as needed so she
can produce the interior panels for the -10.
She is a most pleasant person to deal with, and a homebuiling
enthusiast! Hope this will make it quick and easy for y'all to get
affordable upholstery kits from her when you're ready for them.
Phil #40220 Willowbrook, IL
> Randy
> Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for
the other RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail
> in covering everything is incredible. I want her to do my entire
> interior, and was wondering how far off from a complete line she will
> be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
> THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
> Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I am working on getting my antennas bought so I can get started on running
my wires and wiring up my panel. I need two COMMS, a VOR/GS/LOC, a
Transponder, and I already have the rest of them. I am trying to decide on
the low-drag wing-tip versions and so on. Any suggestions? What are ya'll
using?
How many people are working on the Finishing kit? We are about to start.
It would be nice to be flying by Oshkosh, but we'll see if our Engine and
Prop get here on time.
Jesse Saint (RV-10 Kit 241)
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Thanks Phil. That will help me as well. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline
Randy, Dan: I just spoke to Abby at Flightline, as I am only an hour's
drive from her. I have my -10 fuse about 50% complete, so Abby is
planning to drive here to look it over, make patterns as needed so she
can produce the interior panels for the -10.
She is a most pleasant person to deal with, and a homebuiling
enthusiast! Hope this will make it quick and easy for y'all to get
affordable upholstery kits from her when you're ready for them.
Phil #40220 Willowbrook, IL
> Randy
> Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does for
the other RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the detail
> in covering everything is incredible. I want her to do my entire
> interior, and was wondering how far off from a complete line she will
> be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
> THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
> Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
So far I've only applied it on the practice kit interior to get my technique
down. No "real" experience on how it holds up, but it's a nice flat gray
color vs. chromate green.
Rob Wright
Practice Kit 80% complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on
using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not
at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and
some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior
parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
I used a 5/16 bit also. As in Randy's case, I found this to be very tight. I
think you would really be pounding on a 5/16 bolt in a 7.9mm drilled hole.
This might in fact marr and weaken the only bolt holding your gear leg on.
Certainly not recommending deviating from the plans, just FYI. (40016
Finishing/FWF)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
<4242E87B.9020501(at)MyRV10.com>
Hi all,
I've had Marhyde and the SW 988 recommended to me as well. One thing
that I was told specifically is that they dry to the touch in a few
minutes, are somewhat cured after a few hours and only reach full cure
after about a week to ten days... were the issues you saw with poor
adhesion and easy scratching after ten days or before?
One thing that I was told by the person that recommended the marhyde was
that he does all of his drilling and dimpling in the part, then cleans
and applies the primer to the part... seems obvious now that I think
about it but it hadn't crossed my mind until he said it ;)
Thanks,
James
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I bought a case of Marhyde early on. I was pretty disappointed overall.
> It doesn't go on as uniformly, seems very "thin", and as pointed out
> by Michael, it wipes right off with MEK. I found that it was
> also EXTREMELY scratchable. In the end, I gave up on MarHyde except for
> some very small parts where I really didn't want to mix anything. I've
> been using AKZO whenever I will need more than 1/4 cup of primer or so,
> and it works fantastically. It's not self-etching, which I would think
> is it's only downside, but its a sealing primer. I'd use Variprime,
> except that one isn't sealing. Also, AKZO is fairly cheap at just over
> $100 for 2 gallons, and it's readily available form Aircraft Spruce.
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>
>> I think all off the single part self etching primers are about the
>> same. I've used DuPont's (expensive @ $19 for a 12oz can) and
>> Marhyde (about $11 for a 19oz can) and I really don't see a
>> difference in performance. Neither will compare to the two part
>> primers in adhesion or durability. I don't know about the two parts,
>> but I can tell you that the one parts will wipe right off if you hit
>> them with MEK.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of
>> matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com Sent: Thu 3/24/2005 8:45 AM To:
>> rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or
>> bad) on using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle
>> cans? I'm not at all familiar with some of the products people have
>> mentioned here and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the
>> 988 cans for all interior parts.
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Kent Forsythe HS Skins 40338
>>
>>
>>
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Tim,
My significant other flew in the back seat. She said it was very comfortable. She
is 5'-11" tall and had no trouble getting in or out or having enough room to
move around. I think she was sizing it up for a restroom though, anyone else
ever have to land out there for a potty break? AND HAVE THE PASSENGER LOOK AT
THE FACILITY DIRECTORY TO PICK OUT A SUITABLE AIRPORT FACILITY FOR THAT BREAK???
Rick Sked
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
I sat in the back at OSH and there was plenty of room - I'm 6'1".
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I had the same experience coming back from Reno. I had to stop at Adin. It looked
like a throw back airstrip from the 40's. Worst yet I was @ 10,500ft in a
172 and had to come down to 3500 to the airport elevation. That takes for ever.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seating
Tim,
My significant other flew in the back seat. She said it was very comfortable. She
is 5'-11" tall and had no trouble getting in or out or having enough room to
move around. I think she was sizing it up for a restroom though, anyone else
ever have to land out there for a potty break? AND HAVE THE PASSENGER LOOK AT
THE FACILITY DIRECTORY TO PICK OUT A SUITABLE AIRPORT FACILITY FOR THAT BREAK???
Rick Sked
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Anyone installing a "relief tube" in their -10? : )
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seating
Tim,
My significant other flew in the back seat. She said it was very comfortable. She
is 5'-11" tall and had no trouble getting in or out or having enough room to
move around. I think she was sizing it up for a restroom though, anyone else
ever have to land out there for a potty break? AND HAVE THE PASSENGER LOOK AT
THE FACILITY DIRECTORY TO PICK OUT A SUITABLE AIRPORT FACILITY FOR THAT BREAK???
Rick Sked
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer question (be kind) |
Hi Yall,
I'll post my corrosion proofing methods...
Non-alcad: clean with redpad and Alumaprep, alodine and prime. I use what's handy
SW 988, AKZO for big stuff and I have found that Tempo Zinc Chromate works
OK and is more scratch resistant that the 988 IF you prepare the surface. On the
wing skins I only primed mating surfaces, kept the blue plastic on until it
was all together then removed.
Alcad:
I don't Alodine Alcad....My opinion is it's not very effective on Alcad. Alcad
is effective in it's own right and I do clean, scuff and prime.
Bottom line for me is: Use alodine on non alcad, prep anything your going to prime
with Alumaprep and a Scothbrite scrubbing pad. The Alumaprep really makes
it easy to prep...easier than if you use the pad dry.
I like the Zinc Chromate primer, makes your RV-10 have that P-51 interior look
although I won't use it in the cabin. Thanks to Zinc Chromate I have the only
yard in the neighborhood with three tailed Chipmunks, WEAR A MASK WITH ALL PRIMERS.
Also I like the fact that maybe, just maybe the fumes from my Zinc Chromate
are making their way into to California. See California doesn't like Zinc
Chromate because it causes cancer but only in California, I'm safe in Nevada nestled
right up to were they test them nuclear bombs. The key is good prep, the
rattlecans work well and are scratch resistant but you need to clean the surface
good and remove all the gloss. For that hard as nails and totally bullet
proof primer, use AKZO, good enough for the USAF & NASA good enough for the RV.
I just HATE mixing it up...actually just lazy. If mixed properly and sprayed
correctly, it has a slight sheen and is very chemical resistant. Trust me, MEK
won't remove the cured product. Oh yeah, one last thing, it sprays as is, no
thinning required, at least for my experience.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <gspecketer(at)hotmail.com> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
lol....Well the coming down part is not so bad but the next hour and half getting
back up there sure is!!!
Talk about throw backs....several years ago I was at a little airport at the Nevada/Utah
border called Wendover, it's where the Col. Tibbets and the B-29 crews
practiced prior to heading to the Pacific. Lot of old history there, including
a pit where the "bomb" was put so the B-29 could roll over the pit and hoist
it into the bay, it was too big around to load conventionally.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
Netscape/7.1 (ax)
| Subject: | Re: 7.9mm drill bit |
Fastenal has 7.9 mm drill bits but they come in packs of 5.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0312921
Phil White wrote:
>
>
>Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
>for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
>bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
> I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
>$7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
>that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
>they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
>
> Any thoughts?
>
>Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: (No Subject) |
| From: | lloyddr(at)wernerco.com |
Made the switch?
I changed from a 7a to the 10, once my wife and I sat in it at Oshkosh, what did
you switch?
--- Original Message ---
From: "Gary Specketer" <gspecketer(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: (No Subject)
I made the switch
Gary Specketer
Gary <http://graphics.hotmail.com/emsmile.gif>
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot tube. I am
going with the Gretz mount.
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Back to MT Props |
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
I am wondering if any builder has an actual weight for the mt propeller. I know
this issue came up before and there were some questions as to exactly what the
weight is and how much lighter it is compared to a metal prop.
I also remember some concerns regarding repair of the prop if it is damaged. Anything
new on this front?
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The bay immediately outboard of the outboard access panel worked well for me.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Mount
I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot tube. I am
going with the Gretz mount.
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I'm on the finishing kit and I have my antennas bought. The only wingtip
antenna I went with was the NAV antenna. I plan on using GPS for
everything. I will have one GPS in the EFIS (Grand Rapids), a 430, and
a handheld.
You can see some of my antenna installations here.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t60
Scott Schmidt
www.freedomflyers.com <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
I am working on getting my antennas bought so I can get started on
running my wires and wiring up my panel. I need two COMMS, a
VOR/GS/LOC, a Transponder, and I already have the rest of them. I am
trying to decide on the low-drag wing-tip versions and so on. Any
suggestions? What are ya'll using?
How many people are working on the Finishing kit? We are about to
start. It would be nice to be flying by Oshkosh, but we'll see if our
Engine and Prop get here on time.
Jesse Saint (RV-10 Kit 241)
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am 6'4" and I have long
legs. With the seat where I need it there is tons of room. I will try
to take some pictures tonight and post them for you.
In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far away from your face I am
having LCD screen put in the back of the seats so the passengers can
watch either a DVD or possible different views from cameras on the
plane.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV
grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure
that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Back to MT Props |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
The numbers that I received from Lessdrag.com were 47.7lbs. for the MT
including the spinner and 65lbs for the Hartzell.
Scott Schmidt
USSynthetic Product Manager
1260 South 1600 West
Orem UT 84058
Phone: 801-235-9001
Fax: 801-235-9141
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RV10-List: Back to MT Props
I am wondering if any builder has an actual weight for the mt propeller.
I know this issue came up before and there were some questions as to
exactly what the weight is and how much lighter it is compared to a
metal prop.
I also remember some concerns regarding repair of the prop if it is
damaged. Anything new on this front?
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
Hey Niko,
You can see where I mounted mine at:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20050206/index.html
There are a couple good photos there. I didn't want to mount it in the
per-plans location, because it can interfere with both the control tube
inside, and it would be very near the tie-down ring outside. I was
going to move it just outboard of the access hole on the other side
of the next rib out, but that too would put it very close to the rope
that goes on the tie-down. To keep it far away from all that stuff,
what I did was mount it on the 2nd rib from the outer tip. You could
probably use the supplied tubing, and splice in some plastic tube,
but I opted to just buy another length...I think I bought 14' for just
a few bucks from Van's. I haven't hooked up the tube yet, as I'm
still waiting on Gretz to get his done, but the mount (a Gretz mount)
went really well. You can see the mount and some info on that page
as well. You do need a piece of angle that isn't supplied in the
kit. You can see where I mounted it.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr) wrote:
>
>
> I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot
> tube. I am going with the Gretz mount.
>
> Niko
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heated Pitot Tube Mount |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I used the same system. I put the heated pitot tube just on the other
side (outside) from where Van's recommends it. I tried to keep it as
far away as I could from the tie down without going out any further and
not getting closer to the prop.
Anyway, here are a couple of shots of that. If you need more, let me
know.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14
Scott Schmidt
www.freedomflyers.com
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot Tube Mount
I am looking for words of wisdom on where to mount the heated pitot
tube. I am going with the Gretz mount.
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
As "Buzz" at Cleavland Tools once told me: "If
Van tells you something you can believe it" I
went out to the Vans plant also before I bought
and after trying on the front seat I moved to the
back. I'm almost 6' and 185 lbs. and had PLENTY
of room.
Robert V.
--- Scott Schmidt
wrote:
> Schmidt"
>
> Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am
> 6'4" and I have long
> legs. With the seat where I need it there is
> tons of room. I will try
> to take some pictures tonight and post them for
> you.
> In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far
> away from your face I am
> having LCD screen put in the back of the seats
> so the passengers can
> watch either a DVD or possible different views
> from cameras on the
> plane.
>
> Scott Schmidt
> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]
> On Behalf Of Robert G.
> Wright
> Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Seating
>
> Wright"
>
>
> All,
>
> For those of you who have flown in either
> RV-10, after wiping the RV
> grin
> off your face, did you remember to sit in the
> back seat and make sure
> that
> adults will fit back there?
>
> Rob Wright
> Practice Kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack H Sparling, Jr." <jhs_61(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
I have been using the Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle
cans and I have found that it dries fast will give a nice mat finish when
properly applied and is extremely tough. Be sure to scuff the surface of
anything you prime and clean them with either soap and water or solvent in
order to remove all oils (even the oils from your skin) and you should have
no issues with adhesion. I have been using the green 3M pads for almost all
of the surfaces and a small fine stainless steel wire brush for areas I
can't get into with the pad.
Jack Sparling
Working on the tail cone.
40276
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
So far I've only applied it on the practice kit interior to get my technique
down. No "real" experience on how it holds up, but it's a nice flat gray
color vs. chromate green.
Rob Wright
Practice Kit 80% complete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad) on
using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans? I'm not
at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned here and
some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for all interior
parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primer question (be kind) |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I think it works great. When I lived in Houston all the guys at Hooks
airport were building their RV's with it. And I thought if it was good
enough for Houston, it will be good enough for Salt Lake City.
I have used the 988 for everything. It is a self-etching primer without
the mess. It will cost you a little more in the long run but the time
and frustration you save will more than make up for the cost. You can
also use a sharpie (I like the blue color) to mark you parts, use white
gas to clean up the parts which won't remove the sharpie and you will
still be able to see your writing through the priming when you are done.
Since I have finished all the major parts I have talked to other
painters and they all highly recommend the 988 and really like it. But
there may be better stuff out there.
In my opinion though, I don't see any other option. It dries in 10
minutes too.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Primer question (be kind)
Without starting a "war", does anybody have any feedback (good or bad)
on using Sherwin Williams 988 Self-Etching primer in the rattle cans?
I'm not at all familiar with some of the products people have mentioned
here and some RV8 builders in my EAA group are using the 988 cans for
all interior parts.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
HS Skins
40338
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rattle Can Primer Question |
Please don't start any primer wars!
I am using a rattle can primer from CarQuest Automotive paint store It's from SEM,
a self etching primer available in green, black or gray.
I use it because I am building in my basement and I don't have the means to mix
and spray a two part primer. But I have found that if I clean the parts and
buff the shine off with a scotchbright pad, the stuff really adhers well. Yes
it can be removed with MEK, but it does not scratch easily. I have dimpled parts
after priming and the primer stays put.
It dries quickly. Within 20 minutes I can take it back inside with no fear of
being repremanded by the rest of the family for smelling up the house (A good
thing!)
It's not inexpensive, A large 15.5 Oz / 440 Gram can lists for $15.87 but they
cut me a break and sell it for $11.32.
So for me, this is a good solution to priming the airplane.
Take this for what it's worth.
Jim Combs
#40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Phil, reading a little closer you should see they call for a .311 fluted
straight reamer not a drill bit. At least on the 7a that was the thing.
Drill bits leave a triangular hole. MSC has the .311 reamer for about $15
or any tool and supply place will have a .3125 5/16 which Vans approves for
the process as well. Suggest you use a 5/16 close tolerance bolt and you
get a perfect fit. Have EM from Vans to that effect if you would like to
see it.
Use a little "liquid" Boelube and it goes through like butter. Use electric
drill on slow in case it binds. Much agonizing over something that took
about 5 minutes to do all three holes. BTW, Boelube makes screws go into
platenuts like nothing. No reaming required. About 5.95 from Avery.
Bill S
7a Ark.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: 7.9mm drill bit
Has anyone purchased the 7.9mm (.311 inch) drill bit that the plans call
for to drill the main gear leg sockets? Need a source for an affordable
bit, or perhaps we might share a bit among several builders.
I learned that Bisco FL carries the metric bit at $2.45 plus at least
$7 shipping. Van's tech support told me that they call for this bit
that is 1.5 thousanths undersize because 5/16" bolts run undersize, and
they want a snug fit for this only bolt that holds our gear leg on!
Any thoughts?
Phil #40220 (emp & wings done, fuse about 50%) I switched too!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
Here are some pictures of the room in the back seat.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p176#post176
-Scott Schmidt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Jeez, Scott, do you just have bags of money lying around?!?!
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am 6'4" and I have long
legs. With the seat where I need it there is tons of room. I will try
to take some pictures tonight and post them for you.
In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far away from your face I am
having LCD screen put in the back of the seats so the passengers can
watch either a DVD or possible different views from cameras on the
plane.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV
grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure
that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
I have been thinking about antenna placement and I think we have a big
advantage over our smaller RV brothers. I think the large fiberglass
cabin cover would be ideal for placement of some homemade antennas.
The nav antenna would be a good candidate for this position since they
horizontally polarized. The antenna consists of two 1/2" strips of
copper foil attached to the usual coax with 3 ferrite baluns on the
coax near the foil. I think $5 would build it. I used these on my
Long-EZ and they worked well. With a proper antenna splitter you can
get glideslope as well. Marker beacons and com are also possible but
I bought a commercial com antenna because I don't want anything
radiating energy so close to my head. Getting the com antenna vertical
enough is also a problem.
I am not a radio guy so do any of electronics guys see a problem with
this?
Sheldon Olesen
40080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I wish. I'm still looking for my backpack full of cash but I haven't found it
yet.
-Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
Jeez, Scott, do you just have bags of money lying around?!?!
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Seating
Trust me, there is no problem with that. I am 6'4" and I have long
legs. With the seat where I need it there is tons of room. I will try
to take some pictures tonight and post them for you.
In fact, the back seats are so nice and so far away from your face I am
having LCD screen put in the back of the seats so the passengers can
watch either a DVD or possible different views from cameras on the
plane.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Seating
All,
For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV
grin
off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure
that
adults will fit back there?
Rob Wright
Practice Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I am going to redesign the panel like the one shown. I just added an update to
the link below. (Scroll to the bottom)
I talked with Stein last night and I'm going to change a couple of things now after
talking to him. Instead of a dual AHRS system I am going to go with a single
AHRS but then add an altimeter, airspeed, and sometime around Oshkosh, TruTrak
is going to offer there new aritificial horizon that they just launched
linked to the DigitrakII. According to Stein, you will be able to upgrade your
Digitrak II to the new system and they will give you credit for your current
system. Stein thought it would be about a $300 upgrade. I think that will be
a great system and will offer better redundancy than having two AHRS. The two
AHRS was looking like a wiring nightmare. Two computers, two magnatometers,
lots more wires, ect.....
I do like Randy's panel too but I think I will be able to get four sections with
my design.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p177#post177
-Scott Schmidt
RV-10 N105XP
________________________________
From: Richard Sipp [mailto:rsipp(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Back seat room
Scott,
Thanks for all the recent pictures, they are a big help.
It looks like you extended the vertical dimension on your instrument panel.
Do you have any more shots of the panel?
It looks from what I can see in the "seat" series of pictures to be very
close to what I have in mind. Do you have enough leg room under the panel?
Thanks
Dick Sipp
RV 4 N250DS
RV 10 40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Back seat room
Here are some pictures of the room in the back seat.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p176#post176
-Scott Schmidt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
As far as antennas, I wonder about the darker reinforcing mesh that seems to be
inside parts of the cabin lid. Is it carbon?
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
I have been thinking about antenna placement and I think we have a big
advantage over our smaller RV brothers. I think the large fiberglass
cabin cover would be ideal for placement of some homemade antennas.
The nav antenna would be a good candidate for this position since they
horizontally polarized. The antenna consists of two 1/2" strips of
copper foil attached to the usual coax with 3 ferrite baluns on the
coax near the foil. I think $5 would build it. I used these on my
Long-EZ and they worked well. With a proper antenna splitter you can
get glideslope as well. Marker beacons and com are also possible but
I bought a commercial com antenna because I don't want anything
radiating energy so close to my head. Getting the com antenna vertical
enough is also a problem.
I am not a radio guy so do any of electronics guys see a problem with
this?
Sheldon Olesen
40080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sheldon,
This might work if you bond the strips to the outside of the cabin top, but the
top actually contains graphite sheet for reinforcement. Another option (what
I went with) would be the Archer antenna that goes in the wingtip. You can split
out glideslope and Bob Archer recommends an MB antenna which is just simply
coax with the last 53" of shield braid stripped off. This is then bonded to
the bottom of the wingtip 3" away from, and parallel to the edge. Like you,
I went with commercial comm and transponder antennas on the belly.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sheldon Olesen
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
I have been thinking about antenna placement and I think we have a big
advantage over our smaller RV brothers. I think the large fiberglass
cabin cover would be ideal for placement of some homemade antennas.
The nav antenna would be a good candidate for this position since they
horizontally polarized. The antenna consists of two 1/2" strips of
copper foil attached to the usual coax with 3 ferrite baluns on the
coax near the foil. I think $5 would build it. I used these on my
Long-EZ and they worked well. With a proper antenna splitter you can
get glideslope as well. Marker beacons and com are also possible but
I bought a commercial com antenna because I don't want anything
radiating energy so close to my head. Getting the com antenna vertical
enough is also a problem.
I am not a radio guy so do any of electronics guys see a problem with
this?
Sheldon Olesen
40080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
The one thing I would be very careful of is any part of the metal
airframe casting a shadow on the antennas. You don't want your Nav or
any other antennas in your glass roof trying to look down through the
airframe. That said, I don't see any reason that you could put any
antennas that look up like XM or GPS in your overhead.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sheldon
Olesen
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
I have been thinking about antenna placement and I think we have a big
advantage over our smaller RV brothers. I think the large fiberglass
cabin cover would be ideal for placement of some homemade antennas.
The nav antenna would be a good candidate for this position since they
horizontally polarized. The antenna consists of two 1/2" strips of
copper foil attached to the usual coax with 3 ferrite baluns on the
coax near the foil. I think $5 would build it. I used these on my
Long-EZ and they worked well. With a proper antenna splitter you can
get glideslope as well. Marker beacons and com are also possible but I
bought a commercial com antenna because I don't want anything radiating
energy so close to my head. Getting the com antenna vertical enough is
also a problem.
I am not a radio guy so do any of electronics guys see a problem with
this?
Sheldon Olesen
40080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net> |
I was going to make a post inquiring about nosegear stiffeners or an
aftermarket nosegear. The gear is fine for normal use, of course, but
it would be really nice to have one that could possibly absorb a nasty
off-airport forced landing without folding. We've probably all heard
about the fatal RV landing flip in OR a week or two ago.
On Mar 25, 2005, at 8:58 AM, Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
>
>
> Speaking of Titanium gear legs, I have been flying a Sonex latly with
> Ti
> gear legs, wow they are nice. I would put a set on the RV-10 in a hear
> beat.
>
>
> Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Looks like the gangs almost all here....everyone remember the days when this list
had zero posts? I'm glad Tim is not affiliated with the government in any way
seeing how he successfully pulled off this coup.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
The nosegear design on the -10 is significantly different from all the previous
designs. I crawled under the one at Osh lst year and it is way better than previous
designs.
It now pivets and has a rubber bushing to help absorb much of the beating it has
to take.
Maybe someone who has the last of the kits could comment / take picture.
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 09:14:40 -0600
I was going to make a post inquiring about nosegear stiffeners or an
aftermarket nosegear. The gear is fine for normal use, of course, but
it would be really nice to have one that could possibly absorb a nasty
off-airport forced landing without folding. We've probably all heard
about the fatal RV landing flip in OR a week or two ago.
On Mar 25, 2005, at 8:58 AM, Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
>
>
> Speaking of Titanium gear legs, I have been flying a Sonex latly with
> Ti
> gear legs, wow they are nice. I would put a set on the RV-10 in a hear
> beat.
>
>
> Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Jump --- was Seating |
In all fairness to the Yahoo moderators....Can you imagine James McClow UNMODERATED???
See there is a purpose and at times a need for moderation....wait, that's
reserved for adult libations..nevermind. Jimmy Mac if your out there please
come back!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel sender installation |
Hello fellow Prosealers,
Quick question, Van's specifys to Proseal the fuel sender when you install it for
the final time. My question is do you still use the rubber gasket or screw
it on all slathered up in proseal metal to metal? Also it looks like there is
no handing (a left or a right) for the sender, any problem with the right tank
and bending the float rod since it is 1/2" further aft of the left tank position?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender installation |
Rick,
There definately is a left and right fuel sender.
The sender should be high resistance in the empty position.
I will check tonight, but I believe there are two different part numbers as well.
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 09:01:15 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
Hello fellow Prosealers,
Quick question, Van's specifys to Proseal the fuel sender when you install it for
the final time. My question is do you still use the rubber gasket or screw
it on all slathered up in proseal metal to metal? Also it looks like there is
no handing (a left or a right) for the sender, any problem with the right tank
and bending the float rod since it is 1/2" further aft of the left tank position?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel sender installation |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The fuel sender fit, orientation, etc. was discussed at length a few months ago
over on the Yahoo group. As part of the discussion Randy posted some pix in
the Photos area showing his install. I remember following up with a post that
gave specifics of exactly what was being shown in the photos as a summary for
future reference. The photos are in the "40006 Photos" folder. You should be
able to find the discussion thread by searching for "sender". It will answer
all of your questions - sorry I can give you more specifics right now. The
left and right are definitely different part numbers!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel sender installation
Rick,
There definately is a left and right fuel sender.
The sender should be high resistance in the empty position.
I will check tonight, but I believe there are two different part numbers as well.
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 09:01:15 -0800 (GMT-08:00)
Hello fellow Prosealers,
Quick question, Van's specifys to Proseal the fuel sender when you install it for
the final time. My question is do you still use the rubber gasket or screw
it on all slathered up in proseal metal to metal? Also it looks like there is
no handing (a left or a right) for the sender, any problem with the right tank
and bending the float rod since it is 1/2" further aft of the left tank position?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
You can see all of the front end at www.myrv10.com. Go to Randy's 40006. Tim has hosted all of my photos on his site. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Nosegear
The nosegear design on the -10 is significantly different from all the previous
designs. I crawled under the one at Osh lst year and it is way better than previous
designs.
It now pivets and has a rubber bushing to help absorb much of the beating it has
to take.
Maybe someone who has the last of the kits could comment / take picture.
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 09:14:40 -0600
I was going to make a post inquiring about nosegear stiffeners or an
aftermarket nosegear. The gear is fine for normal use, of course, but
it would be really nice to have one that could possibly absorb a nasty
off-airport forced landing without folding. We've probably all heard
about the fatal RV landing flip in OR a week or two ago.
On Mar 25, 2005, at 8:58 AM, Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
>
>
> Speaking of Titanium gear legs, I have been flying a Sonex latly with
> Ti
> gear legs, wow they are nice. I would put a set on the RV-10 in a hear
> beat.
>
>
> Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel sender installation |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
There was a left and right to mine. You do use the gasket so you can have a point
to break the seal if you ever need to remove them. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel sender installation
Hello fellow Prosealers,
Quick question, Van's specifys to Proseal the fuel sender when you install it for
the final time. My question is do you still use the rubber gasket or screw
it on all slathered up in proseal metal to metal? Also it looks like there is
no handing (a left or a right) for the sender, any problem with the right tank
and bending the float rod since it is 1/2" further aft of the left tank position?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on osiris
I had never knows about the other group, which sounds like I wasn't missing
much. Up until a couple of weeks ago I hardly ever had anything coming in
on this one. Now I have to spend an hour a day sorting through and reading
it all. I don't mind that much, though. It's all good information. Is
there a way of finding out how many people are on this specific list? I
would also be interesting to know the age distribution of -10 builders. I
am 26 and building with a 25 year-old friend, as a project for the
organization I work for (see website below if you're interested).
There is a current drawing of what we hope to have for a panel here
(www.itecusa.org/images/rv10panel.jpg). Are most of you cutting your own
panels or getting them CNC'ed? We're getting a CNC to cut the round holes
and screw holes and to scratch the square holes.
Thanks to all of ya'll for all of the information that we have been
gleaning. It has been very helpful.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Seating
Looks like the gangs almost all here....everyone remember the days when this
list had zero posts? I'm glad Tim is not affiliated with the government in
any way seeing how he successfully pulled off this coup.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sender installation |
Rick,
Absolutely make sure you're head's on straight (I know that's
hard for you. :) ) when you start the fuel senders.
There is absolutely a left and right. The holes will also
only allow them to be placed at one clocking position. I know
at least one person re-drilled the holes thinking something
was wrong, and I myself bent one of the float wires wrong
at one point. I do have some good photos on my page at:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041107/index.html
You'll have to do a visualization on which tank you're looking
at to see how the parts orient themselves.
Work slow, and no prosealing until you get it right. Also,
NO DRILLING. And, don't bend the floats until you see
the picture in your head really well. Also, bend the
floats over something sharp so it gets a nice tight bend.
I may have something on my page (not sure) that talked
about how I did that.
Tim
Here's a couple of bob's old posts:
-------
My boxes were labeled IEF-385B (left) and IEF-385C (right). Probably
best to label them left & right as soon as you get them so that
there's no mix up later.
For those that haven't dealt with these yet, there are five mounting
holes but the spacing isn't equal so that they only line up with the
rib holes one way.
Bob #40105
--------
Now you guys have me wondering. I am positive that I received
float senders from Van's that were marked with the L&R part numbers.
I believe that these were IEF-385B (left) and IEF-386C (right).
I did notice when I installed the sender in the right tank with the
holes lined up, the unit had the float arm retaining clip on the
bottom instead of the top (like the left side) of the unit. I didn't
give it much thought at the time, nor did I actually do a resistance
check to see if it behaved correctly. I'm not absolutely positive that
the above part numbers are correct, but I am sure that I ordered (and
received) the specified L&R parts and that the correct part number was
installed in each tank. I will check resistance of each tonight in the
empty position and see what they show...
Randy )or anybody else) - do you remember if the retaining
clips were both on top after you installed your senders using the
factory mounting holes? Although I'll know for sure tonight after I
check the resistance, I'm wondering if there is a batch of mismarked
fuel senders coming from Van's.
Bob #40105
-------
I just checked the resistence of both of my fuel senders and they
both indicate 247 ohms when empty. My installation matches Randy's
pictures where the clip is on top in the left tank and on bottom on
the right tank. My senders are installed in the factory holes
(sender flange and end rib).
Randy's pictures are in the photo section under 40006. Just for
orientation for those not yet at this stage:
picture DSCN1653 is left tank
pictures DSCN1654 & 5 are right tank
Thanks for the pictures Randy, but the fuselage stuff is a lot cooler
to look at!
Bob #40105
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
> The fuel sender fit, orientation, etc. was discussed at length a few
> months ago over on the Yahoo group. As part of the discussion Randy
> posted some pix in the Photos area showing his install. I remember
> following up with a post that gave specifics of exactly what was
> being shown in the photos as a summary for future reference. The
> photos are in the "40006 Photos" folder. You should be able to find
> the discussion thread by searching for "sender". It will answer all
> of your questions - sorry I can give you more specifics right now.
> The left and right are definitely different part numbers!
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 12:07 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel sender installation
>
>
>
>
> Rick,
>
> There definately is a left and right fuel sender.
>
> The sender should be high resistance in the empty position.
>
> I will check tonight, but I believe there are two different part
> numbers as well.
>
> Jim Combs #40192
>
> ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From:
> Rick Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Date:
>
>
> Hello fellow Prosealers,
>
> Quick question, Van's specifys to Proseal the fuel sender when you
> install it for the final time. My question is do you still use the
> rubber gasket or screw it on all slathered up in proseal metal to
> metal? Also it looks like there is no handing (a left or a right) for
> the sender, any problem with the right tank and bending the float rod
> since it is 1/2" further aft of the left tank position?
>
> Rick S. 40185 Wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel sender installation |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org> |
I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119s web page:
http://www.eaa119.org/
It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
cant land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
question how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
their RV?
As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: extended range |
G'day James,
I am considering it for my -10, simply because it can be a long way to
go anywhere in Australia.
There are a couple of options I am aware of:
1) SafeAir1 have just listed extended range RV-10 tanks on their website
(http://www.safeair1.com). They add about 15 gallons and appear to sit
within the wingtips.
2) Flymore, a company here in South Australia run by Jon Johanson (of
RV-4-three-times-around-the-world-and-to-Antarctica fame) have long been
producing fibreglass wingtip tanks for the RV series, with the exception
of the -10. When my wing kit arrives in just over a months time I
intend to take the wingtips to him to see whether a similar design would
be viable for the -10 (ie cost vs extra fuel capacity). The tanks are
extremely well built. See the website http://www.flymore.com.au
When Jon prepared his aircraft to go to the South Pole his RV-4 was set
up to carry more than 1000 litres (264 gallons) of fuel. Most of the
wing was converted to tanks, including the fibreglass wingtip tanks
previously mentioned, and I'm pretty sure he also had a sizeable
fuselage tank. That then necessitated a more powerful engine and other
modifications to improve lift from the wings (vortex generators etc).
The end result, an RV-4 with about 36 hours endurance.
Seeya,
Scott Lewis
Adelaide, South Australia
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
James Ochs wrote:
>
> I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119s web page:
>
> http://www.eaa119.org/
>
> It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
> the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
> hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
> cant land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
> question how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
> something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
> but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
> their RV?
>
> As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
> that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
>
> James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
No problem for the RV-10. Just add 100 gallons of gas and you can have yourself
a great round-the-world plane.
Since the RV-10 is experimental, you get to determine the gross weight for it.
I just received my weight and balance sheets from Van's and I need to run the
calculations but you should be able to put 600 lbs in the back seats and then
add wing tip tanks as well.
Now you may not be able to land with all that fuel but you should be able to take
off.
If you are intersted in taking your 10 around the world you should definately start
reading everything you can on this site.
I know I am. Why wouldn't you want to fly around the world?
http://www.earthrounders.com/
-Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: extended range
I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119's web page:
http://www.eaa119.org/
It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
can't land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
question... how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
their RV?
As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
How about some surplus drop tanks? : )
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Scott Lewis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: extended range
G'day James,
I am considering it for my -10, simply because it can be a long way to
go anywhere in Australia.
There are a couple of options I am aware of:
1) SafeAir1 have just listed extended range RV-10 tanks on their website
(http://www.safeair1.com). They add about 15 gallons and appear to sit
within the wingtips.
2) Flymore, a company here in South Australia run by Jon Johanson (of
RV-4-three-times-around-the-world-and-to-Antarctica fame) have long been
producing fibreglass wingtip tanks for the RV series, with the exception
of the -10. When my wing kit arrives in just over a months time I
intend to take the wingtips to him to see whether a similar design would
be viable for the -10 (ie cost vs extra fuel capacity). The tanks are
extremely well built. See the website http://www.flymore.com.au
When Jon prepared his aircraft to go to the South Pole his RV-4 was set
up to carry more than 1000 litres (264 gallons) of fuel. Most of the
wing was converted to tanks, including the fibreglass wingtip tanks
previously mentioned, and I'm pretty sure he also had a sizeable
fuselage tank. That then necessitated a more powerful engine and other
modifications to improve lift from the wings (vortex generators etc).
The end result, an RV-4 with about 36 hours endurance.
Seeya,
Scott Lewis
Adelaide, South Australia
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
James Ochs wrote:
>
> I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119's web page:
>
> http://www.eaa119.org/
>
> It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
> the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
> hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
> can't land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
> question... how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
> something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
> but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
> their RV?
>
> As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
> that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
>
> James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
If you look at the Nosegear in the Finish Kit I think you will be surprised. It
looks a LOT beefier than the other RV nosegear. It also has four Mooney brand
illisators (shocks) built into the nose gear leg.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
Thanks to Tim I figured out a way to get the posts without getting the e-mails.
I just subsribed to the LIST only. I am a day late getting the posts, but who
cares, my mother always told me if I keep hanging around the airport I would
be a day late and a dollar short. Back then a dollar was a lot of money!!
I could buy five gallons of gas and slow fiy that J-3 Cub for almost two hours.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
<20050324182246.CYMZ7277.mta10.adelphia.net@robert>
My wife is also a pilot and when we flew our $50 each flight at OSH, we
each took our places in the front and the rear. We both chose the right
rear seat. I'm 5 foot 11 inches. My wife is the same or a little more
(hey, gravity is taking its toll on my old body). Without both of us back
there to test the side to side thing, I must say the rear is very large! I
did have a problem with my left calf leaning on the tunnel. I wish there
was padding there. After flying a while, the calf had a dent in it from
the tunnel. Bottom line...NICE as get all!
Dave Talley
San Antonio, TX
At 12:20 PM 3/24/2005, you wrote:
>
>All,
>
>For those of you who have flown in either RV-10, after wiping the RV grin
>off your face, did you remember to sit in the back seat and make sure that
>adults will fit back there?
>
>Rob Wright
>Practice Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives... |
ch.com>
At 03:41 PM 3/25/2005 Friday, you wrote:
>Hmm, I wonder if there is anyway we can pull the archives from the Yahoo
>list and stuff them into the archives here! Matt....?
>
>Michael
Well, I had a look over on the Yahoo Site and I don't see a way to download
all of the previous posts or frankly even really to access them in their
entirety.
Has anyone on the List been keeping email copies of the posts for any
length of time? If so, I can take those and reformat them and then
pre-pend them to the existing RV10-List archives. I've done this on a
couple of other lists I've started up that were based on previous
lists. The more complete the individual messages are the better up to and
including all of their SMTP email headers. As a matter of fact, if they
are in standard unix-mailbox format, I can just run them though the normal
archive cleaning routines and the job is fairly simple.
Its amazing to me that you can't access all of the back-posting as a whole
on the Yahoo site. Just one more reason to switch, I'd say... :-)
Email me back directly with information on any and all back copies you
might have and we'll see what we can create...
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
| Subject: | Rainy day reflections - Long |
It was about this time just one week ago that Matronics had 0 posts for the
RV-10 group for the week. Mani was desperately looking for assistance over
on "whatdoyoucallithoo". What a difference a day can make. With our well
deserved Oregon Rain in progress, I was reflecting on a few pictures that I
have browsed on the web this last week and thought they might provoke
similar reflection and neural impulses.
The RV-10 is not built to Part 23 standards but it could be if you wanted
to. One area surfaced (while browsing) regarding noise and deflection of
belly skins on RV-8 and how insulation helped dampen both the noise and the
flex - which untreated leads to work hardened aluminum skin over time. The
noise source was the power impulses from exhaust stacks critically close to
the belly skin.
Related but separate: During our A & P school training they made a big deal
out of always (no exception) following the AC43.13-2A (Revised 1977) -
Chapter 3 for Antenna Installations. We would have to do copious math
calculations using the formula D=.000327 AV2 to determine the drag created
by non-whip antennae. Basically they meant rigid antennae. The whips and
cat whisker type do not produce the documented problems. When you look at
Section 39, View A-A of Figure 3.6 on page 15 and Figure 3.22 on Page 22 it
showed us how to make the required antenna mount Doublers. Seems that
decades of rigid antenna retrofits on spamcans were creating premature
stress failures of aluminum skin and adjacent rivet holes. A student built
doubler plate was not considered a compliant Doubler plate (by school
definition) unless it transferred the flexing forces into the adjacent
existing stringer and in some cases required making a joggle on one opposite
edge. Boy is that fun! On ATC flush mounted antenna (Figure 3.27) or Flush
mounted Marker beacons (Figure 3.28), an attachment to the adjacent stringer
was not required. That's cause the drag coefficient was nearly 0.0001
pounds with a Flush Mount.
As you select your rigid antenna application for your 10, I would ask you to
reflect on the drag coefficient number (you don't have to do the math - it's
provided by the manufacturer), the location from other antenna (feedback
interference) and the use of a Part 43 compliant Doubler. If you have a
doubt, ask the most respected Avionics Shop in your area. If you are laying
a second sheet of skin over the original skin without picking up the
adjacent stringer it might produce unanticipated flight noise / flutter,
vibration and additional repair later if the original skin gets work
hardened and you try to stop drill the future crack once the skin is at
limit.
Just a thought. Maybe the RVator can address their recommendation in a
future issue. The design, installation and use of effective doublers should
probably come sooner in the instruction set.
ARCHIVE only if of value to your specific construction. Disregard if you
are a repeat offender or love retrofitting aircraft.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
<6.2.0.14.2.20050326132420.051925a0(at)mail.matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives... |
Matt,
I have 4052 RV-10 messages in my Yahoo mail box back to 7-15-2004 but I too
see NO way to grab all at once.
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives...
>
> At 03:41 PM 3/25/2005 Friday, you wrote:
> >Hmm, I wonder if there is anyway we can pull the archives from the Yahoo
> >list and stuff them into the archives here! Matt....?
> >
> >Michael
>
> Well, I had a look over on the Yahoo Site and I don't see a way to
download
> all of the previous posts or frankly even really to access them in their
> entirety.
>
> Has anyone on the List been keeping email copies of the posts for any
> length of time? If so, I can take those and reformat them and then
> pre-pend them to the existing RV10-List archives. I've done this on a
> couple of other lists I've started up that were based on previous
> lists. The more complete the individual messages are the better up to and
> including all of their SMTP email headers. As a matter of fact, if they
> are in standard unix-mailbox format, I can just run them though the normal
> archive cleaning routines and the job is fairly simple.
>
> Its amazing to me that you can't access all of the back-posting as a whole
> on the Yahoo site. Just one more reason to switch, I'd say... :-)
>
> Email me back directly with information on any and all back copies you
> might have and we'll see what we can create...
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy" <guy(at)votuc.com> |
<6.2.0.14.2.20050326132420.051925a0(at)mail.matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives... |
Matt,
Actually I see their is a way if your a "Plus" member. They have a download
archive service. I saved all of them to my hard drive as a "inbox.zip" file
that is 11 meg in size. The zipped file contains 4066 .eml files . Do you
have a drop box or want it emailed ?
Guy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives...
>
> At 03:41 PM 3/25/2005 Friday, you wrote:
> >Hmm, I wonder if there is anyway we can pull the archives from the Yahoo
> >list and stuff them into the archives here! Matt....?
> >
> >Michael
>
> Well, I had a look over on the Yahoo Site and I don't see a way to
download
> all of the previous posts or frankly even really to access them in their
> entirety.
>
> Has anyone on the List been keeping email copies of the posts for any
> length of time? If so, I can take those and reformat them and then
> pre-pend them to the existing RV10-List archives. I've done this on a
> couple of other lists I've started up that were based on previous
> lists. The more complete the individual messages are the better up to and
> including all of their SMTP email headers. As a matter of fact, if they
> are in standard unix-mailbox format, I can just run them though the normal
> archive cleaning routines and the job is fairly simple.
>
> Its amazing to me that you can't access all of the back-posting as a whole
> on the Yahoo site. Just one more reason to switch, I'd say... :-)
>
> Email me back directly with information on any and all back copies you
> might have and we'll see what we can create...
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives... |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: D* Not Archive? |
69bBuKEQjdeKAAAAQAAAAu5ktlPKbk0Sc8t0iv//wJAEAAAAA(at)itecusa.org>
Yup, you hit the nail right no the head. If the "D* not archive" string
appears _anywhere_ in the message, it will not be added to the
Archive. Really, the DNA is for "way to go", "congratulations", etc. kinds
of messages. If they have any relevance to the List, please don't use
it. Disk space is cheap these days and the search engine is fast.
Matt Dralle
List Admin
At 03:01 PM 3/26/2005 Saturday, you wrote:
>On the "D* Not Archive" issue, will the archives leave the message out of
>the archives if it has those words anywhere in the message? If so, it
>seems that quite a few messages might end up missing the archives because
>someone earlier wrote "D* Not Archive" and that is in the message if the
>e-mail program is set to "copy original message in reply". If you want
>your messages archived, it would be a good idea to scroll down to any
>previous messages and delete that line (unless the list program has a way
>of screening the previous messages out of replies, which I think would be
>fairly difficult.
>
>I only mention this because I saw some useful information on a couple of
>e-mails and then scrolled down and somebody have made a comment that they
>didn't want archived and now all replies will not be archived if they copy
>the original message. I haven't used the archives yet personally because
>I just keep all of the messages on my computer in a special folder, but it
>is still a great feature.
>
>Finishing Fuselage #241
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on cassiopeia
We have wanted this same thing. We have done a fair bit of research,
including talking with Van's. They "definitely do not support wing tip
tanks", or any extended range tanks, but I am sure part of that is for
liability. They said that if you were to put additional tanks it would be
best done in the rear seat floors. We talked about welding a tank that
would add 4 inches to the baggage floor, which would give another hour of
fuel (5 flying plus 1 reserve total - 1,000 mile range), but that would max
out the baggage compartment weight capacity. Van's says that tip tanks will
change the stresses on the wings and will make stalls and spins much harder
to get out of, but I doubt anybody in their right mind is going to put 10
gallons in each wing tip and take it up for some hammer-heads, just to see
if they can kill themselves. Someone built an RV-9 and just extended the
main tanks to be the whole length of the wing, although this would be a TON
of work. We haven't decided what we are going to do yet, but it will either
be tip tanks, baggage compartment tank, or rear seat floor tanks.
There seems to be quite a few people who say that wingtip tanks actually add
to your gross weight, so the added fuel does not cut down on how much you
can carry of people and baggage, but I don't know the engineering involved
in that. I think it would be wise, if using tip tanks, to burn them off
first and then go to the mains for the reasons that Van's gave and in case
of an emergency landing.
Adding range is also a matter of fuel burn, which can be helped, so I hear,
by adding electronic ignition and balance fuel injectors, and my reducing
drag as much as possible, among other things.
I am looking forward to seeing all of the innovations that people make with
this bird that is certainly going to be used more for cross-country flying
than the average 2-place. I know we are planning on putting most of our
time on it for long-range flying, although I doubt we will be doing many
around-the-world or south-pole flights. We may end up flying to South
America at some point, but then you get into all of the political stuff with
overflying and landing in different countries. I certainly don't want my
RV-10 added to Cuba, Nicaragua or Columbia's training fleet (or to their
landscape or ocean floor, for that matter).
With all that said, how many are hoping to extend the range, seriously, and
how are you expecting to do it (wing-tip tanks, baggage compartment, rear
seat floor, etc.)?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: extended range
I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119s web page:
http://www.eaa119.org/
It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
cant land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
question how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
their RV?
As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Butler" <gingy1(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hello,
Just ordered the wings Wednesday, and I noticed that Randy's pictures on
Tim Olsen's website show some holes under where the clear lens cover
will go. Obviously these are for lights. Looked at Tim's website and
the Wing plans, and noticed that in the drawings, it shows this same
pattern of holes. But, on Tim's tips there are no holes? Do the tips
come with or w/o the holes, or does the factory contact you about this?
I'm considering using the creativair nav, strobe, landing combo, and am
just wondering.
Thanks,
Eric
There are only 10 kind of people in this world, those who understand
binary, and those who don't.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives... |
<6.2.0.14.2.20050326132420.051925a0(at)mail.matronics.com>
<001801c53252$a54e8220$6501a8c0@corp.nortel.com>
Cool! Just email it to my normal address dralle(at)matronics.com
How do you become a "Plus" member?
There seems to be "7441" messages in the archive. Can you get rest of them
too?
Thanks,
Matt
At 02:24 PM 3/26/2005 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>Matt,
>
>Actually I see their is a way if your a "Plus" member. They have a download
>archive service. I saved all of them to my hard drive as a "inbox.zip" file
>that is 11 meg in size. The zipped file contains 4066 .eml files . Do you
>have a drop box or want it emailed ?
>
>Guy
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 4:32 PM
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Old Yahoo Groups RV10 Archives...
>
>
> >
> > At 03:41 PM 3/25/2005 Friday, you wrote:
> > >Hmm, I wonder if there is anyway we can pull the archives from the Yahoo
> > >list and stuff them into the archives here! Matt....?
> > >
> > >Michael
> >
> > Well, I had a look over on the Yahoo Site and I don't see a way to
>download
> > all of the previous posts or frankly even really to access them in their
> > entirety.
> >
> > Has anyone on the List been keeping email copies of the posts for any
> > length of time? If so, I can take those and reformat them and then
> > pre-pend them to the existing RV10-List archives. I've done this on a
> > couple of other lists I've started up that were based on previous
> > lists. The more complete the individual messages are the better up to and
> > including all of their SMTP email headers. As a matter of fact, if they
> > are in standard unix-mailbox format, I can just run them though the normal
> > archive cleaning routines and the job is fairly simple.
> >
> > Its amazing to me that you can't access all of the back-posting as a whole
> > on the Yahoo site. Just one more reason to switch, I'd say... :-)
> >
> > Email me back directly with information on any and all back copies you
> > might have and we'll see what we can create...
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
I believe Tim has not made a final decision on his lighting solution.
He is looking for a HID lighting solution. Hopefully Duckworks
will provide a HID solution that gets cut
into the leading edge. Randy used vans solution which is very similar
(maybe even a copy) of the creative air lighting
solution.
Larry
RV10 #356
Medford, NJ
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>There are no holes in the tips when you receive them. If you order the landing
light kit from Van's it comes with a template for all of the holes assuming
that you're going to use a Whelen lighting system for nav/strobes.
>
>Bob #40105
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Eric Butler
> Sent: Sat 03/26/2005 05:31 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc:
> Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Just ordered the wings Wednesday, and I noticed that Randys pictures on
Tim
Olsens website show some holes under where the clear lens cover will go.
Obviously these are for lights. Looked at Tims website and the Wing plans,
and noticed that in the drawings, it shows this same pattern of holes. But,
on Tims tips there are no holes? Do the tips come with or w/o the holes,
or does the factory contact you about this? Im considering using the creativair
nav, strobe, landing combo, and am just wondering
>
> Thanks,
> Eric
>
> There are only 10 kind of people in this world, those who understand binary,
and those who don't.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Larry is right that I'm looking for HID's and it sounds like
Duckworks is going to re-engineer the kit for the -10. As
soon as they have it done, I'll be buying it, as long as they
say I can easily add it to a completed wing. I don't see
why it wouldn't work.
I'll let you know.
BTW: Van's got my wingtip that I sent them, and they're
sending another with my QB fuse. My advice is if you have one
that's a *little* too long, just cut it and fix it up. But
if you're *real* long, and when you cut it, the trailing edges
separate, then decide for yourself. Just be VERY careful.
I can give you some tips on how to not trash it on your first
try if you want to give it a shot....no guarantees though,
'cuz I learned the hard way.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Larry wrote:
>
> I believe Tim has not made a final decision on his lighting solution.
> He is looking for a HID lighting solution. Hopefully Duckworks
> will provide a HID solution that gets cut
> into the leading edge. Randy used vans solution which is very similar
> (maybe even a copy) of the creative air lighting
> solution.
>
> Larry
> RV10 #356
> Medford, NJ
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>> There are no holes in the tips when you receive them. If you order
>> the landing light kit from Van's it comes with a template for all of
>> the holes assuming that you're going to use a Whelen lighting system
>> for nav/strobes.
>> Bob #40105
>> -----Original Message----- From:
>> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Eric Butler
>> Sent: Sat 03/26/2005 05:31 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Cc: Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips
>>
>>
>> Hello,
>> Just ordered the wings Wednesday, and I noticed that Randys
>> pictures on Tim Olsens website show some holes under where the clear
>> lens cover will go. Obviously these are for lights. Looked at Tims
>> website and the Wing plans, and noticed that in the drawings, it shows
>> this same pattern of holes. But, on Tims tips there are no holes?
>> Do the tips come with or w/o the holes, or does the factory contact
>> you about this? Im considering using the creativair nav, strobe,
>> landing combo, and am just wondering
>> Thanks,
>> Eric
>> There are only 10 kind of people in this world, those who
>> understand binary, and those who don't.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: extended range |
I thought seriously about this. Then again, I realized that neither
myself, my significant other, or the two kids in the back would be able
to go any longer than "standard" without taking a potty break. :) So
I'll be skipping the extended range tanks.
-Sean #40303
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>We have wanted this same thing. We have done a fair bit of research,
>including talking with Van's. They "definitely do not support wing tip
>tanks", or any extended range tanks, but I am sure part of that is for
>liability. They said that if you were to put additional tanks it would be
>best done in the rear seat floors. We talked about welding a tank that
>would add 4 inches to the baggage floor, which would give another hour of
>fuel (5 flying plus 1 reserve total - 1,000 mile range), but that would max
>out the baggage compartment weight capacity. Van's says that tip tanks will
>change the stresses on the wings and will make stalls and spins much harder
>to get out of, but I doubt anybody in their right mind is going to put 10
>gallons in each wing tip and take it up for some hammer-heads, just to see
>if they can kill themselves. Someone built an RV-9 and just extended the
>main tanks to be the whole length of the wing, although this would be a TON
>of work. We haven't decided what we are going to do yet, but it will either
>be tip tanks, baggage compartment tank, or rear seat floor tanks.
>
>There seems to be quite a few people who say that wingtip tanks actually add
>to your gross weight, so the added fuel does not cut down on how much you
>can carry of people and baggage, but I don't know the engineering involved
>in that. I think it would be wise, if using tip tanks, to burn them off
>first and then go to the mains for the reasons that Van's gave and in case
>of an emergency landing.
>
>Adding range is also a matter of fuel burn, which can be helped, so I hear,
>by adding electronic ignition and balance fuel injectors, and my reducing
>drag as much as possible, among other things.
>
>I am looking forward to seeing all of the innovations that people make with
>this bird that is certainly going to be used more for cross-country flying
>than the average 2-place. I know we are planning on putting most of our
>time on it for long-range flying, although I doubt we will be doing many
>around-the-world or south-pole flights. We may end up flying to South
>America at some point, but then you get into all of the political stuff with
>overflying and landing in different countries. I certainly don't want my
>RV-10 added to Cuba, Nicaragua or Columbia's training fleet (or to their
>landscape or ocean floor, for that matter).
>
>With all that said, how many are hoping to extend the range, seriously, and
>how are you expecting to do it (wing-tip tanks, baggage compartment, rear
>seat floor, etc.)?
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 10:25 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: extended range
>
>
>I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119s web page:
>
>http://www.eaa119.org/
>
>It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
>the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
>hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
>cant land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
>question how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
>something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
>but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
>their RV?
>
>As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
>that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
>
>James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on cepheus
Along with extended range tanks, there are always the good old "range
extenders" to take care of that other problem.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: extended range
I thought seriously about this. Then again, I realized that neither
myself, my significant other, or the two kids in the back would be able
to go any longer than "standard" without taking a potty break. :) So
I'll be skipping the extended range tanks.
-Sean #40303
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>We have wanted this same thing. We have done a fair bit of research,
>including talking with Van's. They "definitely do not support wing tip
>tanks", or any extended range tanks, but I am sure part of that is for
>liability. They said that if you were to put additional tanks it would be
>best done in the rear seat floors. We talked about welding a tank that
>would add 4 inches to the baggage floor, which would give another hour of
>fuel (5 flying plus 1 reserve total - 1,000 mile range), but that would max
>out the baggage compartment weight capacity. Van's says that tip tanks
will
>change the stresses on the wings and will make stalls and spins much harder
>to get out of, but I doubt anybody in their right mind is going to put 10
>gallons in each wing tip and take it up for some hammer-heads, just to see
>if they can kill themselves. Someone built an RV-9 and just extended the
>main tanks to be the whole length of the wing, although this would be a TON
>of work. We haven't decided what we are going to do yet, but it will
either
>be tip tanks, baggage compartment tank, or rear seat floor tanks.
>
>There seems to be quite a few people who say that wingtip tanks actually
add
>to your gross weight, so the added fuel does not cut down on how much you
>can carry of people and baggage, but I don't know the engineering involved
>in that. I think it would be wise, if using tip tanks, to burn them off
>first and then go to the mains for the reasons that Van's gave and in case
>of an emergency landing.
>
>Adding range is also a matter of fuel burn, which can be helped, so I hear,
>by adding electronic ignition and balance fuel injectors, and my reducing
>drag as much as possible, among other things.
>
>I am looking forward to seeing all of the innovations that people make with
>this bird that is certainly going to be used more for cross-country flying
>than the average 2-place. I know we are planning on putting most of our
>time on it for long-range flying, although I doubt we will be doing many
>around-the-world or south-pole flights. We may end up flying to South
>America at some point, but then you get into all of the political stuff
with
>overflying and landing in different countries. I certainly don't want my
>RV-10 added to Cuba, Nicaragua or Columbia's training fleet (or to their
>landscape or ocean floor, for that matter).
>
>With all that said, how many are hoping to extend the range, seriously, and
>how are you expecting to do it (wing-tip tanks, baggage compartment, rear
>seat floor, etc.)?
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 10:25 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: extended range
>
>
>I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119's web page:
>
>http://www.eaa119.org/
>
>It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
>the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
>hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
>can't land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
>question. how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
>something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
>but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
>their RV?
>
>As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
>that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
>
>James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: extended range |
For me, yes, for the kids, no... :)
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>Along with extended range tanks, there are always the good old "range
>extenders" to take care of that other problem.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 9:45 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: extended range
>
>
>I thought seriously about this. Then again, I realized that neither
>myself, my significant other, or the two kids in the back would be able
>to go any longer than "standard" without taking a potty break. :) So
>I'll be skipping the extended range tanks.
>
>-Sean #40303
>
>Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>We have wanted this same thing. We have done a fair bit of research,
>>including talking with Van's. They "definitely do not support wing tip
>>tanks", or any extended range tanks, but I am sure part of that is for
>>liability. They said that if you were to put additional tanks it would be
>>best done in the rear seat floors. We talked about welding a tank that
>>would add 4 inches to the baggage floor, which would give another hour of
>>fuel (5 flying plus 1 reserve total - 1,000 mile range), but that would max
>>out the baggage compartment weight capacity. Van's says that tip tanks
>>
>>
>will
>
>
>>change the stresses on the wings and will make stalls and spins much harder
>>to get out of, but I doubt anybody in their right mind is going to put 10
>>gallons in each wing tip and take it up for some hammer-heads, just to see
>>if they can kill themselves. Someone built an RV-9 and just extended the
>>main tanks to be the whole length of the wing, although this would be a TON
>>of work. We haven't decided what we are going to do yet, but it will
>>
>>
>either
>
>
>>be tip tanks, baggage compartment tank, or rear seat floor tanks.
>>
>>There seems to be quite a few people who say that wingtip tanks actually
>>
>>
>add
>
>
>>to your gross weight, so the added fuel does not cut down on how much you
>>can carry of people and baggage, but I don't know the engineering involved
>>in that. I think it would be wise, if using tip tanks, to burn them off
>>first and then go to the mains for the reasons that Van's gave and in case
>>of an emergency landing.
>>
>>Adding range is also a matter of fuel burn, which can be helped, so I hear,
>>by adding electronic ignition and balance fuel injectors, and my reducing
>>drag as much as possible, among other things.
>>
>>I am looking forward to seeing all of the innovations that people make with
>>this bird that is certainly going to be used more for cross-country flying
>>than the average 2-place. I know we are planning on putting most of our
>>time on it for long-range flying, although I doubt we will be doing many
>>around-the-world or south-pole flights. We may end up flying to South
>>America at some point, but then you get into all of the political stuff
>>
>>
>with
>
>
>>overflying and landing in different countries. I certainly don't want my
>>RV-10 added to Cuba, Nicaragua or Columbia's training fleet (or to their
>>landscape or ocean floor, for that matter).
>>
>>With all that said, how many are hoping to extend the range, seriously, and
>>how are you expecting to do it (wing-tip tanks, baggage compartment, rear
>>seat floor, etc.)?
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>>www.itecusa.org
>>W: 352-465-4545
>>C: 352-427-0285
>>F: 815-377-3694
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 10:25 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: extended range
>>
>>
>>I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119's web page:
>>
>>http://www.eaa119.org/
>>
>>It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
>>the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
>>hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
>>can't land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
>>question. how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
>>something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
>>but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
>>their RV?
>>
>>As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
>>that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
>>
>>James
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
That is why you need one of these. Lots of guys use them in 24+ hour
motorcycle contests. I haven't had to use one yet but it will definitely
be in the around the world kit. They also have a stadium gal for you
know who!
http://www.stadiumpal.com/stadiumpal_what.htm
Scott Schmidt
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: extended range
Along with extended range tanks, there are always the good old "range
extenders" to take care of that other problem.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: extended range
I thought seriously about this. Then again, I realized that neither
myself, my significant other, or the two kids in the back would be able
to go any longer than "standard" without taking a potty break. :) So
I'll be skipping the extended range tanks.
-Sean #40303
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>We have wanted this same thing. We have done a fair bit of research,
>including talking with Van's. They "definitely do not support wing tip
>tanks", or any extended range tanks, but I am sure part of that is for
>liability. They said that if you were to put additional tanks it would
be
>best done in the rear seat floors. We talked about welding a tank that
>would add 4 inches to the baggage floor, which would give another hour
of
>fuel (5 flying plus 1 reserve total - 1,000 mile range), but that would
max
>out the baggage compartment weight capacity. Van's says that tip tanks
will
>change the stresses on the wings and will make stalls and spins much
harder
>to get out of, but I doubt anybody in their right mind is going to put
10
>gallons in each wing tip and take it up for some hammer-heads, just to
see
>if they can kill themselves. Someone built an RV-9 and just extended
the
>main tanks to be the whole length of the wing, although this would be a
TON
>of work. We haven't decided what we are going to do yet, but it will
either
>be tip tanks, baggage compartment tank, or rear seat floor tanks.
>
>There seems to be quite a few people who say that wingtip tanks
actually
add
>to your gross weight, so the added fuel does not cut down on how much
you
>can carry of people and baggage, but I don't know the engineering
involved
>in that. I think it would be wise, if using tip tanks, to burn them
off
>first and then go to the mains for the reasons that Van's gave and in
case
>of an emergency landing.
>
>Adding range is also a matter of fuel burn, which can be helped, so I
hear,
>by adding electronic ignition and balance fuel injectors, and my
reducing
>drag as much as possible, among other things.
>
>I am looking forward to seeing all of the innovations that people make
with
>this bird that is certainly going to be used more for cross-country
flying
>than the average 2-place. I know we are planning on putting most of
our
>time on it for long-range flying, although I doubt we will be doing
many
>around-the-world or south-pole flights. We may end up flying to South
>America at some point, but then you get into all of the political stuff
with
>overflying and landing in different countries. I certainly don't want
my
>RV-10 added to Cuba, Nicaragua or Columbia's training fleet (or to
their
>landscape or ocean floor, for that matter).
>
>With all that said, how many are hoping to extend the range, seriously,
and
>how are you expecting to do it (wing-tip tanks, baggage compartment,
rear
>seat floor, etc.)?
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 10:25 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: extended range
>
>
>I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119's web page:
>
>http://www.eaa119.org/
>
>It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an
around
>the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11
and 12
>hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East
where he
>can't land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
>question. how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is
that
>something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12
hours
>but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks
for
>their RV?
>
>As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic
nonsense
>that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
>
>James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
OK, just got word that I will be off. So have booked my flight tickets and
stay to Tampa/ Lakeland. Will be there from the afternoon of 4/24 to the
afternoon of 4/27. Who are all coming and how do we meet and make this a fun
time. I really NEED a ride on the _10. I have not even SEEN it. Oh boy! Am I
excited already or what?
Mani Ravee, MD MC
Pulmonary Medicine & Critical Care
Maj. US Army Medical Corps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Window & Windshield Install |
Van's recommends Weld-10 for install of the windows and windshield and sales a 4 oz package (one per window) for $12.00. You will need six based on Van's projection. One for each window and two for the windshield. www.ridoutplastics.com sales a pint for $23.45 and also sells Brillianize acrlic window cleaner for $26.11 a gallon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/27/2005 6:07:54 A.M. Central Standard Time,
maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net writes:
OK, just got word that I will be off. So have booked my flight tickets and
stay to Tampa/ Lakeland. Will be there from the afternoon of 4/24 to the
afternoon of 4/27
Mani, SnF is April 12 - 18, 2005
DO NOT ARCHIVE
(Tuesday - Monday)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on andromeda
Pampers, man, Pampers! :-)
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: extended range
For me, yes, for the kids, no... :)
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>Along with extended range tanks, there are always the good old "range
>extenders" to take care of that other problem.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Saturday, March 26, 2005 9:45 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: extended range
>
>
>I thought seriously about this. Then again, I realized that neither
>myself, my significant other, or the two kids in the back would be able
>to go any longer than "standard" without taking a potty break. :) So
>I'll be skipping the extended range tanks.
>
>-Sean #40303
>
>Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>We have wanted this same thing. We have done a fair bit of research,
>>including talking with Van's. They "definitely do not support wing tip
>>tanks", or any extended range tanks, but I am sure part of that is for
>>liability. They said that if you were to put additional tanks it would be
>>best done in the rear seat floors. We talked about welding a tank that
>>would add 4 inches to the baggage floor, which would give another hour of
>>fuel (5 flying plus 1 reserve total - 1,000 mile range), but that would
max
>>out the baggage compartment weight capacity. Van's says that tip tanks
>>
>>
>will
>
>
>>change the stresses on the wings and will make stalls and spins much
harder
>>to get out of, but I doubt anybody in their right mind is going to put 10
>>gallons in each wing tip and take it up for some hammer-heads, just to see
>>if they can kill themselves. Someone built an RV-9 and just extended the
>>main tanks to be the whole length of the wing, although this would be a
TON
>>of work. We haven't decided what we are going to do yet, but it will
>>
>>
>either
>
>
>>be tip tanks, baggage compartment tank, or rear seat floor tanks.
>>
>>There seems to be quite a few people who say that wingtip tanks actually
>>
>>
>add
>
>
>>to your gross weight, so the added fuel does not cut down on how much you
>>can carry of people and baggage, but I don't know the engineering involved
>>in that. I think it would be wise, if using tip tanks, to burn them off
>>first and then go to the mains for the reasons that Van's gave and in case
>>of an emergency landing.
>>
>>Adding range is also a matter of fuel burn, which can be helped, so I
hear,
>>by adding electronic ignition and balance fuel injectors, and my reducing
>>drag as much as possible, among other things.
>>
>>I am looking forward to seeing all of the innovations that people make
with
>>this bird that is certainly going to be used more for cross-country flying
>>than the average 2-place. I know we are planning on putting most of our
>>time on it for long-range flying, although I doubt we will be doing many
>>around-the-world or south-pole flights. We may end up flying to South
>>America at some point, but then you get into all of the political stuff
>>
>>
>with
>
>
>>overflying and landing in different countries. I certainly don't want my
>>RV-10 added to Cuba, Nicaragua or Columbia's training fleet (or to their
>>landscape or ocean floor, for that matter).
>>
>>With all that said, how many are hoping to extend the range, seriously,
and
>>how are you expecting to do it (wing-tip tanks, baggage compartment, rear
>>seat floor, etc.)?
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>>www.itecusa.org
>>W: 352-465-4545
>>C: 352-427-0285
>>F: 815-377-3694
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
>>Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 10:25 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: extended range
>>
>>
>>I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119's web page:
>>
>>http://www.eaa119.org/
>>
>>It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
>>the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and
12
>>hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where
he
>>can't land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
>>question. how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
>>something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
>>but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
>>their RV?
>>
>>As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
>>that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
>>
>>James
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
I added 10 gallons, will come out with all the details after I know it
works.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: extended range
I ran across this story on the front of chapter 119s web page:
http://www.eaa119.org/
It appears that Bill Randolph of Aptos, Ca is currently working an around
the world flight in his RV-8. A couple of the updates talk about 11 and 12
hour legs (one over the atlantic, and another over the Middle East where he
cant land due to political reasons). This brought to mind a simple
question how does one get 12 hours of fuel on board an RV???? Is that
something that could be reasonably done in a -10 (not necessarily 12 hours
but some extended range)? Is anyone looking at extended range tanks for
their RV?
As a side note it really is interesting to read the bureaucratic nonsense
that one gets to put up when flying in different areas of the world!
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
I was looking at an Aircrafters Cub today and notice the inertial
reels for the shoulder harness. As it turns out they are made by
AMSAFE which is headquartered in Phoenix. I found the right guy and
will be working with him to install inertial reel four point harness
in the front seats of the 10 and will look at the options for the
rear. I hope to find a solution for the rear as my two children need
to move as well as be restrained during flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
SGF2aW5nIGFuIGluZXJ0aWFsIHJlYWwgb3B0aW9uIHdvdWxkIGJlIHdvbmRlcmZ1bCEgIFBsZWFz
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bW92ZSBhcyB3ZWxsIGFzIGJlIHJlc3RyYWluZWQgZHVyaW5nIGZsaWdodC4NCgkNCgkNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Window & Windshield Install |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
One pint will do it?
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Russell Daves
Subject: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
Van's recommends Weld-10 for install of the windows and windshield and sales a 4 oz package (one per window) for $12.00. You will need six based on Van's projection. One for each window and two for the windshield. www.ridoutplastics.com sales a pint for $23.45 and also sells Brillianize acrlic window cleaner for $26.11 a gallon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
I bought three from McMaster and Carr over the net for $7.25 each. You want the
cobalt heavy duty for gear legs. Also if the #5 bolt is still too big. Don't
drive it in. Removing to change gear legs or correct toin/toeout will be impossible.
Instead, chuck a nut driver for the head of the bolt in your electric drill
then wrap a layer of sandpaper around the bolt and use the drill. Sandpaper
the bolt to fit. Part of the coating will be removed but bolt will fit firm
with out being an interference fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instrument Subpanel Cutout & Reinforcement? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
It appears that the depth between the instrument panel and the subpanel is about
9.5" which won't quite work for a lot of avionics. This means that the subpanel
has to have an opening cut in it - is there some standard way that folks
are reinforcing the edges? I haven't settled on avionics yet and won't for a
while but want to get this cut & reinforced before riveting it in place.
Here's the depth of some common standard avionics that won't fit without modification
to the subpanel - note that it's not just cutting edge stuff!
King KX-155 (10.16")
Garmin AT SL-30 (10.5")
King KMD-550 (10")
Avidyne EX-500 (10.75")
Garmin GNS-430 & GNS-530 (11")
Garming AT CNX-80 (11.8")
King KLN-94 (10.72")
Blue Mountain Sport EFIS (10.3")
Above measurements are a combination of behind panel and total depth, but either
way none of the above will fit without a hole cut in the subpanel.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Sometimes it isn't a "bolt too big" question as much of a "isn't straight"
issue. Rather than tuning something down which will reduce contact area,
think about a .311 or .3125 5/16 reamer ($12.00) for a perfect hole and a
close tolerance bolt for a straight minimum clearance fit. Most bolts are
not perfectly straight. Maybe worth it on gear legs but usually not
elsewhere. On the 7, they specifically ask for a .311 or .3125 straight
fluted reamer for the gear leg holes,... I'm surprised they don't on the 10.
Drills make slightly triangular holes,.. reamers make round holes more like
a uni-bit.
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 1:22 PM
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: re: 7.9mm bit
I bought three from McMaster and Carr over the net for $7.25 each. You
want the cobalt heavy duty for gear legs. Also if the #5 bolt is still too
big. Don't drive it in. Removing to change gear legs or correct toin/toeout
will be impossible. Instead, chuck a nut driver for the head of the bolt in
your electric drill then wrap a layer of sandpaper around the bolt and use
the drill. Sandpaper the bolt to fit. Part of the coating will be removed
but bolt will fit firm with out being an interference fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Subpanel Cutout & Reinforcement? |
Hey Bob,
For a small nominal fee Lancair will take care of that for you...the more I look
at their panel the more I like it :)
Now if I only knew what "price comparable to others" means.
Rick Sked
40185
TANKS!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Larry,
When I get my -10 finished I'll come visit. My parents are in Mt. Laurel and that's
going to be my first exra long X-country.
Rick S.
40185
TANKS!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Instrument Subpanel Cutout & Reinforcement? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
SXQncyBuaWNlIGJ1dCBJJ2xsIHByb2JhYmx5IGp1c3QgdHJ5IG91dCB0aGUgc3RvY2sgc29sdXRp
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
The part numbers are suffix B left and suffix C right. Van's sent me two left to
start. The bend is different . Try placing the sender unit in the hole so that
the screw holes line up properly. There is only one way. Mark the top of tank
and bottom of tank positions on the sender. Then holding the sender in the
correct orientation for the tank visual where the float will be when tank is full.
Hope this helps.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
Just checking in to say I'm here and make sure this thing works. Noticed that
there were 0 messages from Yahoo today and something like 35 on this list. I
guess the move was successfull.
--Shawn
40366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I had to wait 2 months for the fuse kit. The landing light kits still were not
available so I built my own. They look great. We will see. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Eric Butler
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips
Hello,
Just ordered the wings Wednesday, and I noticed that Randy's pictures on Tim Olsen's
website show some holes under where the clear lens cover will go. Obviously
these are for lights. Looked at Tim's website and the Wing plans, and noticed
that in the drawings, it shows this same pattern of holes. But, on Tim's
tips there are no holes? Do the tips come with or w/o the holes, or does the
factory contact you about this? I'm considering using the creativair nav, strobe,
landing combo, and am just wondering...
Thanks,
Eric
There are only 10 kind of people in this world, those who understand binary, and
those who don't.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Window & Windshield Install |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to know. It is
very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and see if you can
mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have told me that you
could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off everything before
you install them. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Russell Daves
Subject: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
Van's recommends Weld-10 for install of the windows and windshield and sales a 4 oz package (one per window) for $12.00. You will need six based on Van's projection. One for each window and two for the windshield. www.ridoutplastics.com sales a pint for $23.45 and also sells Brillianize acrlic window cleaner for $26.11 a gallon.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Sorry guys, I will be there 14th to the 17th. Thanks for the correction. Had
to go back and check the reservations too. :-)
Mani
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Window & Windshield Install |
>I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to know.
>It is very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and see
>if you can mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have told
>me that you could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off
>everything before you install them. Randy
Man, why can't we just use Proseal? If memory serves me, Shawn Moon's wife
said that's what they use on the airliner windows. True, Shawn?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Window & Windshield Install |
Another option might be Silpruf, that's what I've used on the Glastar with
very good success and it is easy to use, I try if attached picture comes
through.
Silpruf is a structural adhesive for the windows on the huge buildings, made
by GE or BASF in Europe. If you need more infos let me know.
Werner (hard thinking to upgrade to a 4 seater)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
>
> >I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to
know.
> >It is very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and see
> >if you can mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have
told
> >me that you could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off
> >everything before you install them. Randy
>
>
> Man, why can't we just use Proseal? If memory serves me, Shawn Moon's
wife
> said that's what they use on the airliner windows. True, Shawn?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE:Throttle/Mixture/Prop |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Are there instructions in the Finish Kit plans on a reccomended way to set up the
little flange that holds the throttle/mixture/prop cables at the bottom of
the instrument panel? Does the finish kit actually provide a part?
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
This is great news Phil, Thank you very much for letting her use your
kit for measurements, I owe so many people for their help on this
project, we will all have to get together at Oshkosh, so I can buy
everyone a soda/beer or???
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil White
Subject: RV10-List: Re: patterns for Upholstery via Flightline
Randy, Dan: I just spoke to Abby at Flightline, as I am only an hour's
drive from her. I have my -10 fuse about 50% complete, so Abby is
planning to drive here to look it over, make patterns as needed so she
can produce the interior panels for the -10.
She is a most pleasant person to deal with, and a homebuiling
enthusiast! Hope this will make it quick and easy for y'all to get
affordable upholstery kits from her when you're ready for them.
Phil #40220 Willowbrook, IL
> Randy
> Is she also doing all of your other interior panels, like she does
for
the other RV's? She does outstanding work on the pieces, and the
detail
> in covering everything is incredible. I want her to do my entire
> interior, and was wondering how far off from a complete line she will
> be, by using yours, we are all benefiting.
> THX for letting the vendors use yours for their prototypes!
> Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE:Throttle/Mixture/Prop |
Yes the part is there. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend |
Subject: RV10-List: RE:Throttle/Mixture/Prop
Are there instructions in the Finish Kit plans on a reccomended way to set up the
little flange that holds the throttle/mixture/prop cables at the bottom of
the instrument panel? Does the finish kit actually provide a part?
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Window & Windshield Install |
I put the windows in a Glastar with Silpruf a few years ago. My question to
you is WHAT did New Glasair suggest? Surly not the same thing that Van's
is recommending, at least I hope not.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
Another option might be Silpruf, that's what I've used on the Glastar with
very good success and it is easy to use, I try if attached picture comes
through.
Silpruf is a structural adhesive for the windows on the huge buildings, made
by GE or BASF in Europe. If you need more infos let me know.
Werner (hard thinking to upgrade to a 4 seater)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
>
> >I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to
know.
> >It is very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and see
> >if you can mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have
told
> >me that you could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off
> >everything before you install them. Randy
>
>
> Man, why can't we just use Proseal? If memory serves me, Shawn Moon's
wife
> said that's what they use on the airliner windows. True, Shawn?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims |
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
I am getting confused with the installation of the two shims on the fuel tank attach
bracket.
There are several screw holes on the shims, but the instructions mention dimpling
only two of them. What happens to the rest? Are they dimpled also? Is the
attach bracket countersunk to accept the dimples for the screw holes?
thanks in advance for your replies
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE:Throttle/Mixture/Prop |
If you are using the throttle quadrant, the finishing kit will give you
a new piece to rivet onto the bulkhead behind the panel. You will then
have to redrill the holes in the bottom of the panel to fit it. I am
actually going to drop my panel about 1.5" and it looks like I may be
able to use the mount that comes with the fuselage kit.
I'm in the process of all of this. I will post some pictures once I get
it figured out.
Scott Schmidt
www.freedomflyers.com <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RV10-List: RE:Throttle/Mixture/Prop
Are there instructions in the Finish Kit plans on a reccomended
way to set up the little flange that holds the throttle/mixture/prop
cables at the bottom of the instrument panel? Does the finish kit
actually provide a part?
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
It is confusing since you don't have the rest of the plans. The strip needs to
be either C/S or dimpled depending on the material thickness. You will be laying
a 5" wide or so filler strip over that parts and the filler strip has dimpled
#8 screws that hold it down. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims
I am getting confused with the installation of the two shims on the fuel tank attach
bracket.
There are several screw holes on the shims, but the instructions mention dimpling
only two of them. What happens to the rest? Are they dimpled also? Is the
attach bracket countersunk to accept the dimples for the screw holes?
thanks in advance for your replies
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Window & Windshield Install |
New Glasairs suggestion in the past was, to use Vinylester to glue it
together, but since they've seen it on their new Sportsman been done, they
recommend Silpruf, but the difference between Glastar and Glasair is, that
on the Glastar the windows are non structural, no idea how this is on the
RV-10?
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
>
> I put the windows in a Glastar with Silpruf a few years ago. My question
to
> you is WHAT did New Glasair suggest? Surly not the same thing that Van's
> is recommending, at least I hope not.
>
> Noel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner
Schneider
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 7:39 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
>
> Another option might be Silpruf, that's what I've used on the Glastar with
> very good success and it is easy to use, I try if attached picture comes
> through.
>
> Silpruf is a structural adhesive for the windows on the huge buildings,
made
> by GE or BASF in Europe. If you need more infos let me know.
>
> Werner (hard thinking to upgrade to a 4 seater)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 3:25 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
>
>
> >
> > >I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to
> know.
> > >It is very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and
see
> > >if you can mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have
> told
> > >me that you could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off
> > >everything before you install them. Randy
> >
> >
> > Man, why can't we just use Proseal? If memory serves me, Shawn Moon's
> wife
> > said that's what they use on the airliner windows. True, Shawn?
> >
> > Brian Denk
> > RV8 N94BD
> > RV10 '51
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Window & Windshield Install |
And screws??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
>
>>I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to know.
>>It is very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and see
>>if you can mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have told
>>me that you could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off
>>everything before you install them. Randy
>
>
> Man, why can't we just use Proseal? If memory serves me, Shawn Moon's
> wife said that's what they use on the airliner windows. True, Shawn?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Quick build pictures wanted |
Does anyone have any Quick bulid photos on the net or they can send to my email
please
regards chris vhmum at bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Window & Windshield Install |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
No screws. Just glued in. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
And screws??
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window & Windshield Install
>
>>I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to know.
>>It is very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and see
>>if you can mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have told
>>me that you could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off
>>everything before you install them. Randy
>
>
> Man, why can't we just use Proseal? If memory serves me, Shawn Moon's
> wife said that's what they use on the airliner windows. True, Shawn?
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area) |
Hi Guys myself , wife Susie and baby Darcy will be coming to USA (Oregon only)
and then up to Canada .
We have just sold our RV6 VH-MUM and we want to have a go at the 10.
We have been in the past and are all ok with accommodation.
If there are any 10 builders in the local area could we come and have a look.
One chap already emailed but deleted it accidentally ( please email back).
We are coming around 4 AUG 05
regards chris Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick build pictures wanted |
quick build of what?
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 2:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Quick build pictures wanted
Does anyone have any Quick bulid photos on the net or they can send to my email
please
regards chris vhmum at bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Quick build pictures wanted |
A similar question: Are there any web sites detailing the RV-10
construction with quickbuild wings and Fuse?
Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
> Does anyone have any Quick bulid photos on the net or they can send to
> my email please
>
> regards chris vhmum at bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area) |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
You are welcome to see N610RV. I should be back from Oshkosh by then. I will be
at a hanger about 6 miles from Van's. Randy 503-780-6210 Cell.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris , Susie McGough
Subject: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area)
Hi Guys myself , wife Susie and baby Darcy will be coming to USA (Oregon only)
and then up to Canada .
We have just sold our RV6 VH-MUM and we want to have a go at the 10.
We have been in the past and are all ok with accommodation.
If there are any 10 builders in the local area could we come and have a look.
One chap already emailed but deleted it accidentally ( please email back).
We are coming around 4 AUG 05
regards chris Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area) |
Randy, are you going to be flying N610RV back from OSH?
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> You are welcome to see N610RV. I should be back from Oshkosh by then.
> I will be at a hanger about 6 miles from Van's. Randy 503-780-6210
> Cell.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Chris
> , Susie McGough
> *Sent:* Monday, March 28, 2005 2:10 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops
> and area)
>
> Hi Guys myself , wife Susie and baby Darcy will be coming to USA
> (Oregon only) and then up to Canada .
>
> We have just sold our RV6 VH-MUM and we want to have a go at the 10.
>
> We have been in the past and are all ok with accommodation.
>
> If there are any 10 builders in the local area could we come and
> have a look.
> One chap already emailed but deleted it accidentally ( please
> email back).
>
> We are coming around 4 AUG 05
>
> regards chris Melbourne Australia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
<011401c533e3$177280e0$03a8a8c0@NOTEBOOK>
| Subject: | Re: Quick build pictures wanted |
David RV10 fuse and wings
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Quick build pictures wanted
quick build of what?
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2005 2:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Quick build pictures wanted
Does anyone have any Quick bulid photos on the net or they can send to my email
please
regards chris vhmum at bigpond.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area) |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
That is the plan.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and
area)
Randy, are you going to be flying N610RV back from OSH?
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> You are welcome to see N610RV. I should be back from Oshkosh by then.
> I will be at a hanger about 6 miles from Van's. Randy 503-780-6210
> Cell.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Chris
> , Susie McGough
> *Sent:* Monday, March 28, 2005 2:10 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops
> and area)
>
> Hi Guys myself , wife Susie and baby Darcy will be coming to USA
> (Oregon only) and then up to Canada .
>
> We have just sold our RV6 VH-MUM and we want to have a go at the 10.
>
> We have been in the past and are all ok with accommodation.
>
> If there are any 10 builders in the local area could we come and
> have a look.
> One chap already emailed but deleted it accidentally ( please
> email back).
>
> We are coming around 4 AUG 05
>
> regards chris Melbourne Australia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Hanging the wings |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on apophis.email.starband.net
We are on the last step of the Fuselage kit. Our finishing kit is arriving
tomorrow. Does it make sense to hang the wings just to fit the fairings and
controls or should we wait until we are ready to do the final wing
installation before doing those parts? It seems like a lot of work to put
the wings on and then take them off again for painting and all that.
Along the same lines, those who are nearing completion, did you follow the
whole manual step by step or did you skip around a fair bit? We were going
to leave off the forward fuse top skin until we had our panel put together,
but we changed our minds and installed it today.
How many hours does the manual call for to do the finishing kit?
I am fired up about getting this bird flying. I am just starting my flight
training and hope to have my license by the time we are flying. We will
see. We are waiting on an engine overhaul and just ordered our prop, so it
looks like it might not be flying by Osh, although I would like to have it
flying sooner.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hanging the wings |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
You need to install the wings and do several things, They are in the plans and
follow them it will work out fine. I bought 4 3/8" bolts about 7" long and cut
all of the threads off of them. They slide right in and we had the wings on
in 10 mins. It took 3 to 4 hours to do all of the checks and making the vent
tubes etc. You want to do it before painting because you won't have to handle
them as much painted. For instance you need to mark where the pitot line will
pierce the fuse so you have to have the pitot line routing done or at least
figured out before installing the wings. The manual never says how long anything
takes. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Hanging the wings
We are on the last step of the Fuselage kit. Our finishing kit is arriving tomorrow.
Does it make sense to hang the wings just to fit the fairings and controls
or should we wait until we are ready to do the final wing installation before
doing those parts? It seems like a lot of work to put the wings on and then
take them off again for painting and all that.
Along the same lines, those who are nearing completion, did you follow the whole
manual step by step or did you skip around a fair bit? We were going to leave
off the forward fuse top skin until we had our panel put together, but we changed
our minds and installed it today.
How many hours does the manual call for to do the finishing kit?
I am fired up about getting this bird flying. I am just starting my flight training
and hope to have my license by the time we are flying. We will see. We
are waiting on an engine overhaul and just ordered our prop, so it looks like
it might not be flying by Osh, although I would like to have it flying sooner.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area) |
I'm just skinning the wings on my RV-10 in Kelowna. You are welcome to
visit. Kelowna is about 1-1 1/2 hrs from Kamloops. Call me at 250-718-3557
when you get here.
Ted French
RV-6A flying C-FXCS
RV-10 building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Sent: March 28, 2005 2:10 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area)
Hi Guys myself , wife Susie and baby Darcy will be coming to USA (Oregon
only) and then up to Canada .
We have just sold our RV6 VH-MUM and we want to have a go at the 10.
We have been in the past and are all ok with accommodation.
If there are any 10 builders in the local area could we come and have a
look.
One chap already emailed but deleted it accidentally ( please email back).
We are coming around 4 AUG 05
regards chris Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "chris m" <vhmum(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area) |
Sounds great will be there anyway to see jim Jewel building a 6A...do you know
him?
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
VK3GI
----- Original Message -----
From: Ted French
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 11:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area)
I'm just skinning the wings on my RV-10 in Kelowna. You are welcome to visit.
Kelowna is about 1-1 1/2 hrs from Kamloops. Call me at 250-718-3557 when you
get here.
Ted French
RV-6A flying C-FXCS
RV-10 building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris , Susie McGough
Sent: March 28, 2005 2:10 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area)
Hi Guys myself , wife Susie and baby Darcy will be coming to USA (Oregon only)
and then up to Canada .
We have just sold our RV6 VH-MUM and we want to have a go at the 10.
We have been in the past and are all ok with accommodation.
If there are any 10 builders in the local area could we come and have a look.
One chap already emailed but deleted it accidentally ( please email back).
We are coming around 4 AUG 05
regards chris Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux(at)bendnet.com> |
| Subject: | Window installation |
Could not help myself on this one Noel, but what do you know about window installations.
I'm still dealing with the nightmare you created on my aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | window installation |
Phoenix Composites uses a peanut butter consistency of resin, chopped fibers and
cabisol to putty in the windows.
there is a bit of technique to it and requires several persons. Window is fitted
and covered with a blue protective material which is painted on (later pulls
off like a piece of thin rubber). Aluminum fingers are bent and taped to prevent
scratching when clecoed in place. they are numbered and holes external to
the window area are clecoed so that one part of the finger presses against the
window and holds it in place. when the window is fitted and clecoed in place,
the window is ready to putty in place. Then the "peanut butter" is spread liberally
around the window flange. the window is placed and the fingers clecoed
as the person inside the aircraft wipes off the excess with a 50/50 mixture of
mineral spirits and acetone. the external excess is sanded away and a glass
strip covers the external edge of the glass. proper taping of the external and
proper wiping of the inside provide a very nice window install. I plan to use
this method for the 10. Anyone interested in seeing the results on the Glastar
can see it at OSH from Thursday through Saturday in the homebuilt section. the
number is N48007.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Does anyone know the rules for battery capacity in series? We're going to have
a 24 volt system, and we're thinking about putting two 12v Odyssey batteries
in series to make a 24 volt battery. (Interestingly enough, Cirrus does this .
. .)
Do I get the storage equivalent in amp-hours of two batteries, or just one?
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
two Odyssey 680s for example in series will still be a 16ah battery albeit
at 25.2 volts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Batteries
Does anyone know the rules for battery capacity in series? We're going to
have a 24 volt system, and we're thinking about putting two 12v Odyssey
batteries in series to make a 24 volt battery. (Interestingly enough, Cirrus
does this . . .)
Do I get the storage equivalent in amp-hours of two batteries, or just one?
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted French" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and area) |
Yes. He helps me with back riviting and I help him with wiring...
Ted French
RV-6A flying C-FXCS
RV-10 building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of chris m
Sent: March 28, 2005 6:50 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and
area)
Sounds great will be there anyway to see jim Jewel building a 6A...do you
know him?
Chris and Susie
VH-MUM
VK3GI
----- Original Message -----
From: Ted French
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 11:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and
area)
I'm just skinning the wings on my RV-10 in Kelowna. You are welcome to
visit. Kelowna is about 1-1 1/2 hrs from Kamloops. Call me at 250-718-3557
when you get here.
Ted French
RV-6A flying C-FXCS
RV-10 building
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Sent: March 28, 2005 2:10 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Aussie visit to Vans and Canada (Kamloops and
area)
Hi Guys myself , wife Susie and baby Darcy will be coming to USA
(Oregon only) and then up to Canada .
We have just sold our RV6 VH-MUM and we want to have a go at the 10.
We have been in the past and are all ok with accommodation.
If there are any 10 builders in the local area could we come and have
a look.
One chap already emailed but deleted it accidentally ( please email
back).
We are coming around 4 AUG 05
regards chris Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | Stall Warning Assembly |
Is it better to install the stall warning assembly before or after the 1008
rib is rivetted to the LE?
I notice that some adjustment is required to confirm the vane is
perpendicular to the LE skin. How hard is this after the rib is rivetted?
cheers,
Ron
40187 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sun And fun : Contact Info |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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IA0KDQoNCg==
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Any NH or MA Builders? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Hey gang,
Looks like my travel plans have changed a bit and I'm going to be in Manchester,
NH and Burlington, MA area for the next couple of days. Any builders in the
area up for a visit?
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning Assembly |
BEFORE BEFORE BEFORE,
A lot easier to do while it's out of the LE assembly
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Stall Warning Assembly |
Oops, I meant before mounting the leading edge to the wing, you can easily install
it while the leading edge is in the cradle and adjust it there without a problem,
to install t after the leading edge is installed on the wings is tough
but not impossible.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Local to Sun-N-Fun |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on hestia
We are just about to start the finishing kit. If anybody is going to be at
Sun-N-Fun and would like to stop by and check out the -10. We are in
Dunnellon, FL (X35), which is a normal stop-off for planes in and out of
Sun-N-Fun because of the cheap gas and low traffic. We are the
northern-most hangar on the east taxi-way. Give me a call at my cell or
work number below if you want to stop by either before or after the show (or
during, I guess, as long as it isn't Tues, Wed or Sat).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on hestia
We have our VOR/GS antenna (rabbit ears), but don't know if we like the idea
of having that thing sticking off our tail. Who has plans for an internal
one and what do you recommend?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Archer internal wingtip antenna seems to have good reviews (that's what I'm going with). Here's the link to the ACS page with description info. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/archer_antennas.php
I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on the wingtip comm antennas but folks really
seem to like the nav version.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: VOR/GS Antenna
We have our VOR/GS antenna (rabbit ears), but don't know if we like the idea of
having that thing sticking off our tail. Who has plans for an internal one and
what do you recommend?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
No reason to use the cat whiskers any more, especially when the internal
wingtip NAV's work just fine. There are a couple, but most have been using
the Bob Archer Sportcraft antenna with good results.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 9:45 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: VOR/GS Antenna
We have our VOR/GS antenna (rabbit ears), but don't know if we like the
idea of having that thing sticking off our tail. Who has plans for an
internal one and what do you recommend?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun And fun : Contact Info |
Tim,
You may now be the keeper of the RV10 whitepages. Secure, and with more
information.
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS Antenna |
I believe Bob Archer also sells direct from his website.
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 8:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: VOR/GS Antenna
Archer internal wingtip antenna seems to have good reviews (that's what I'm going with). Here's the link to the ACS page with description info. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/archer_antennas.php
I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on the wingtip comm antennas but folks really
seem to like the nav version.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2005 9:45 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: VOR/GS Antenna
We have our VOR/GS antenna (rabbit ears), but don't know if we like the idea
of having that thing sticking off our tail. Who has plans for an internal one
and what do you recommend?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims |
Randy,
Did you mean that the strip is dimpled and the fuel tank attach bracket which its
sitting on is countersunk?
I believe all the screw hole are dimpled on the shim and countersunk on the fuel
tank attach bracket.
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims
It is confusing since you don't have the rest of the plans. The strip needs to
be either C/S or dimpled depending on the material thickness. You will be laying
a 5" wide or so filler strip over that parts and the filler strip has dimpled
#8 screws that hold it down. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims
I am getting confused with the installation of the two shims on the fuel tank attach
bracket.
There are several screw holes on the shims, but the instructions mention dimpling
only two of them. What happens to the rest? Are they dimpled also? Is the
attach bracket countersunk to accept the dimples for the screw holes?
thanks in advance for your replies
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
You only get the amp hour rating of one battery (Whichever one is weakest). The
two batteries give you the increase voltage but not increase amp hour rating.
Sorry!
Jim C
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2005 23:20:59 -0500
Does anyone know the rules for battery capacity in series? We're going to have
a 24 volt system, and we're thinking about putting two 12v Odyssey batteries
in series to make a 24 volt battery. (Interestingly enough, Cirrus does this .
. .)
Do I get the storage equivalent in amp-hours of two batteries, or just one?
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I would have to look at the plans again but 3 weeks ago before I painted the wings
I looked over the wings and was able to figure out which holes had to be dimpled
or C/S. You can wait to install that shim until you test fit the wings.
Then when you lay the filler plate in the wings you will see what need to happen
to the holes. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims
Randy,
Did you mean that the strip is dimpled and the fuel tank attach bracket which its
sitting on is countersunk?
I believe all the screw hole are dimpled on the shim and countersunk on the fuel
tank attach bracket.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims
It is confusing since you don't have the rest of the plans. The strip needs to
be either C/S or dimpled depending on the material thickness. You will be laying
a 5" wide or so filler strip over that parts and the filler strip has dimpled
#8 screws that hold it down. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Napoli,
Nikolaos (Contr)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims
I am getting confused with the installation of the two shims on the fuel tank attach
bracket.
There are several screw holes on the shims, but the instructions mention dimpling
only two of them. What happens to the rest? Are they dimpled also? Is the
attach bracket countersunk to accept the dimples for the screw holes?
thanks in advance for your replies
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
In series, you will only get the capacity of one battery (assuming both
are the same rating).
-Jim
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
>Does anyone know the rules for battery capacity in series? We're going to have
a 24 volt system, and we're thinking about putting two 12v Odyssey batteries
in series to make a 24 volt battery. (Interestingly enough, Cirrus does this
. . .)
>
>Do I get the storage equivalent in amp-hours of two batteries, or just one?
>
>TDT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Joe Bienkowski <joeb47(at)verizon.net> |
Dear Tim,
You get the same Ampere Hours as either single battery. If they are the
same size!
What you do get more of is TWICE the voltage, so that your total stored
energy is
TWO times as much as a single battery!
Joe
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
>Does anyone know the rules for battery capacity in series? We're going to have
a 24 volt system, and we're thinking about putting two 12v Odyssey batteries
in series to make a 24 volt battery. (Interestingly enough, Cirrus does this
. . .)
>
>Do I get the storage equivalent in amp-hours of two batteries, or just one?
>
>TDT
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sun And fun : Contact Info |
Please feel free to stop by the booth at Sun-N-Fun D-014 or use it to leave
messages or ??
We are finally making progress on our RV-10 after moving and remodeling an
old house. Jeffrey, my 14 year old that is doing a lot of the work on the
RV-10 will also be at Sun-N-Fun.
Last Friday afternoon Jeffrey and I got a chance to fly the first prototype
RV-10 with Ken Scott. The RV-10 is even better than I expected, visibility
as awesome, stalls are very gentle, and the IO-540 was very smooth. I was
very surprised how quit it is inside. The vibration is remarkably lower than
my
RV-4.
And that Engine monitor and AOA looks and works great in it. :)
See you all at Sun-n-Fun....
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems (D-14)
N401RH RV-4. N402RH RV-10
P.S.
Also come see our new ...........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS Antenna |
You can call Bob Archer direct at (310) 316-8796.
Or email him at _bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com_ (javascript:void)
Wingtip antenna's are $65 each plus shipping from Bob. I just ordered two
of these antenna's for a friends Cessna 210. Seems he got tired of my cheap
radio's receiving the NAV signal farther away than his factory certified
installation. :-)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
In a message dated 03/29/2005 11:42:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dlm46007(at)cox.net writes:
I believe Bob Archer also sells direct from his website.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm34077(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | seat harness measurments |
I am planning to use 4 point inertial reel seat harnesses in my 10. From someone
who already has the belts supplied by Van's I would like to know the following.
front seat lap belt lengths each side
shoulder harness total length (Van's has indicated that from the single bolt hard
point to the Y is 18")
rear seat lap belt lengths each side
rear seat shoulder harness total length and length to the Y
diagonal distance from top of rear seat to rear edge of the lid ( I may want to
create some additional hard points.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims |
Niko,
The forward portion of the shim is dimpled, the aft holes which sit on the tank
brace are not dimpled or countersunk at this time. If you had the Fuse plans
to look at you would see how these holes come into play. FWIW the installation
portion of the root filler sheeting only tells you to dimple or countersink as
needed when you do the install. Since your quick build, I don't think you had
to countersink the root fairing attach holes. Look at the root, those series
of holes that are right in the edge of the skin were countersunk in assembly.
You will do the same thing if needed on the tank brace when the time comes to
install the gap filler. Also it is easier to install and dimple the rivets on
the shim prior to attaching to the tank brace if you have that option.
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on osiris
Will one of these antennas work for both VOR and GS?
Thanks for all the help.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/GS Antenna
You can call Bob Archer direct at (310) 316-8796.
Or email him at bobsantennas(at)earthlink.com
Wingtip antenna's are $65 each plus shipping from Bob. I just ordered two
of these antenna's for a friends Cessna 210. Seems he got tired of my cheap
radio's receiving the NAV signal farther away than his factory certified
installation. :-)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
In a message dated 03/29/2005 11:42:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
dlm46007(at)cox.net writes:
I believe Bob Archer also sells direct from his website.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS Antenna |
NAV and GS from one NAV antenna?
The signal from the NAV antenna coax may need to go through a splitter if
your radio requires separate connections to the radio for NAV and GS. The use
of the splitter seems to be a common avionics installation practice.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims |
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
Thanks for the info Rick.
Actually I have the standard wing kit, the standard fuselage kit will be arriving
in another month so I could wait till then. What I understand from what you
are saying is dimple all the rivet holes on the upper and lower shims and countersink
the corresponding holes on the tank attach brace. Dimple the two aft
screw holes on the top shim per the instructions. Do not dimple or countersink
the remaining screw holes at this time.
thanks again
Niko
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims
Niko,
The forward portion of the shim is dimpled, the aft holes which sit on the tank
brace are not dimpled or countersunk at this time. If you had the Fuse plans
to look at you would see how these holes come into play. FWIW the installation
portion of the root filler sheeting only tells you to dimple or countersink as
needed when you do the install. Since your quick build, I don't think you had
to countersink the root fairing attach holes. Look at the root, those series
of holes that are right in the edge of the skin were countersunk in assembly.
You will do the same thing if needed on the tank brace when the time comes to
install the gap filler. Also it is easier to install and dimple the rivets on
the shim prior to attaching to the tank brace if you have that option.
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Attach Bracket Shims |
Niko,
If I recall the #19 holes on the brace are not countersunk until you get to install
the Wing Root gap seals. The overhanging/forward portion of the shim gets
dimpled for a #8 screws and nutplates. Only countersink the rivet holes on the
brace for the nutplates and dimple the #40 nutplate holes on the shim that attaches
to the brace. My thoughts are you countersink the heavier aluminum on
the tank brace, right through the shims when you get to that part of the wing
installation. The same way you countersunk the wing skins at the wing root. These
nutplates at the root are used to attach the same root gap filler that will
attach to the shims and tank brace. The seam for this filler is at the shim.
It is two pieces, one goes from the dimpled holes in the shim forward and wraps
around the leading edge, the other piece goes from the aft holes in the shim
back towards the trailing edge. There is some trimming involved I'm sure and
why it's not counter sunk now who knows, but it is addressed in the fuselage
plans when to do it during the installation of the gap filler. For now just drill
for #19, dimple for #8 and dimple and install the nutplates on the forward
portion of the shim. It makes a whole lot more sense if you could see the fuse
plans, I had the same questions and I read over the fuse plans and it made total
sense what was going on after that. I can fax you the page that will explain
it but not until tomorrow morning, I'll shrink it down and send it to you.
Once you see it it makes it seem so simple. Hope I didn't beat this up too much.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: VOR/GS Antenna |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
SL30 has built-in diplexer . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VOR/GS Antenna
Yeppers,
Diplexor (aka splitter) for GS/Nav. Or triplexer for Nav1, Nav2 & GS. Only problem
is cost. about $75 for the Diplexor and I think about $95 for the Triplexor.
Almost the same cost as running another antenna if needed. I think some nav/comm
units have them built into them but not sure. Check with your avionics manufac.
to see what antenna requirments are going to be. RG 400 cable is also
pricey and heavy, the less of that you need the better. I plan on using the Archer
wingtips for nav and comm. Going to use one belly whip for Comm 1, put Comm2
in the tip.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
products.
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron/flap alignment |
For those who have mounted ailerons and flaps, are you seeing a difference in the
trailing edge alignment in the chord dimension?
My aileron is about .25 in shorter in chord than the flap.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Window & Windshield Install |
That seems right, but I will have to check with her when she gets back from DC.
The material might make a difference as well. If I recall correctly, the RV-10
uses plexiglass and the big boys use actual glass. Does proseal have fumes
that might distort or fog plexiglass?
Denk"
>I used 4 tubes total but 5 is not out of the question. One thing to know.
>It is very runny. I talked to Ken Kruger and he was going to call and see
>if you can mix with some kind on thickener. 2 fiberglass people have told
>me that you could. The rear windows are a mess with it thin. Mask off
>everything before you install them. Randy
Man, why can't we just use Proseal? If memory serves me, Shawn Moon's wife
said that's what they use on the airliner windows. True, Shawn?
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
(ax)
| Subject: | Re: Window & Windshield Install |
Shawn Moon wrote:
> That seems right, but I will have to check with her when she gets back
> from DC. The material might make a difference as well. If I recall
> correctly, the RV-10 uses plexiglass and the big boys use actual
> glass. Does proseal have fumes that might distort or fog plexiglass?
No. Works just fine.
Linn
>
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are manufactured
at Van's. At least that is what one of them told me. I tend to think
they are right because the rear seats are only $180. If they were from
OA, they would be $5000.
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
I talked to Oregon Aero last summer and they gave me a price (since forgotten)
that was quite reasonable for the rear seat cushions. I guess all of the brain
power went into the front seats . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are manufactured at Van's.
At least that is what one of them told me. I tend to think they are right
because the rear seats are only $180. If they were from OA, they would be $5000.
Scott Schmidt
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Cushions |
There are a lot of options besides OA. I bought memory foam and carved my own cushions
and seat backs for the Glastar and total cost for two seats including
the leather covering was about $600. In Phoenix we use Central Foam which can
supply the "astronaut couch material" as well as a non patented imitation. Any
major city should have one or more big distributors. Even Mesa Sales in Mesa
AZ can order blocks. An electric carving knife does an excellent job of cutting
it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are manufactured at Van's.
At least that is what one of them told me. I tend to think they are right
because the rear seats are only $180. If they were from OA, they would be
$5000.
Scott Schmidt
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:37 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
I'll ask Oregon Aero at Sun N Fun and post their quote . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
There are a lot of options besides OA. I bought memory foam and carved my own cushions
and seat backs for the Glastar and total cost for two seats including
the leather covering was about $600. In Phoenix we use Central Foam which can
supply the "astronaut couch material" as well as a non patented imitation. Any
major city should have one or more big distributors. Even Mesa Sales in Mesa
AZ can order blocks. An electric carving knife does an excellent job of cutting
it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt <mailto:sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are manufactured
at Van's. At least that is what one of them told me. I tend to think they are
right because the rear seats are only $180. If they were from OA, they would
be $5000.
Scott Schmidt
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:37 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron/flap alignment |
Richard,
Given the displaced pivot for the Wing Flags, the trailing edge should be easily
positioned relative to the aileron. I am not quite there yet (very soon), so
I can't offer much.
Are the flaps slightly "up" in order to improve cruise drag?
Picture?
Jim C
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 23:29:07 -0500
For those who have mounted ailerons and flaps, are you seeing a difference in the
trailing edge alignment in the chord dimension?
My aileron is about .25 in shorter in chord than the flap.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
You do definitely want to use a good memory foam. I have talked with
many people that tried making their own and they always end up buying
good memory foam seats. I'm sure the OA seats would be the best. I am
really impressed with the foam on them. Does anyone have the one's from
Van's yet? They said they will be shipping mine on April 4th.
Scott Schmidt
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I'll ask Oregon Aero at Sun N Fun and post their quote . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
There are a lot of options besides OA. I bought memory foam and carved
my own cushions and seat backs for the Glastar and total cost for two
seats including the leather covering was about $600. In Phoenix we use
Central Foam which can supply the "astronaut couch material" as well as
a non patented imitation. Any major city should have one or more big
distributors. Even Mesa Sales in Mesa AZ can order blocks. An electric
carving knife does an excellent job of cutting it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt <mailto:sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are
manufactured at Van's. At least that is what one of them told me. I
tend to think they are right because the rear seats are only $180. If
they were from OA, they would be $5000.
Scott Schmidt
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:37 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
One would think Van's would sell the rear cushions from Oregon Aero . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
You do definitely want to use a good memory foam. I have talked with many people
that tried making their own and they always end up buying good memory foam
seats. I'm sure the OA seats would be the best. I am really impressed with the
foam on them. Does anyone have the one's from Van's yet? They said they will
be shipping mine on April 4th.
Scott Schmidt
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I'll ask Oregon Aero at Sun N Fun and post their quote . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
There are a lot of options besides OA. I bought memory foam and carved my own cushions
and seat backs for the Glastar and total cost for two seats including
the leather covering was about $600. In Phoenix we use Central Foam which can
supply the "astronaut couch material" as well as a non patented imitation. Any
major city should have one or more big distributors. Even Mesa Sales in Mesa
AZ can order blocks. An electric carving knife does an excellent job of cutting
it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt <mailto:sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are manufactured
at Van's. At least that is what one of them told me. I tend to think they are
right because the rear seats are only $180. If they were from OA, they would
be $5000.
Scott Schmidt
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:37 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I would have thought so but Van's told me they made the rear seats
in-house.
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
One would think Van's would sell the rear cushions from Oregon Aero . .
.
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
You do definitely want to use a good memory foam. I have talked with
many people that tried making their own and they always end up buying
good memory foam seats. I'm sure the OA seats would be the best. I am
really impressed with the foam on them. Does anyone have the one's from
Van's yet? They said they will be shipping mine on April 4th.
Scott Schmidt
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I'll ask Oregon Aero at Sun N Fun and post their quote . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
There are a lot of options besides OA. I bought memory foam and carved
my own cushions and seat backs for the Glastar and total cost for two
seats including the leather covering was about $600. In Phoenix we use
Central Foam which can supply the "astronaut couch material" as well as
a non patented imitation. Any major city should have one or more big
distributors. Even Mesa Sales in Mesa AZ can order blocks. An electric
carving knife does an excellent job of cutting it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt <mailto:sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are
manufactured at Van's. At least that is what one of them told me. I
tend to think they are right because the rear seats are only $180. If
they were from OA, they would be $5000.
Scott Schmidt
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:37 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I bought mine from Hi Tech foams in Nebraska. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on andromeda
We are working on the cabin cover and doors. We have talked to a number of
people about how to finish the fiberglass parts that do not have gel coat on
them.
One recommendation is to brush it with Feather Fill, which will fill most
but not all of the pin holes. Then how to you fill the holes that are left?
Another recommendation was to paint it with Corlar and then all of the pin
holes would be very obvious and could be filled.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
Best thing to use is a product called Smooth Prime from the Poly-fiber
folks. It also acts as a UV block which is a must for fiberglass.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/smoothprime.php
Michael
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass Work
We are working on the cabin cover and doors. We have talked to a number
of people about how to finish the fiberglass parts that do not have gel
coat on them.
One recommendation is to brush it with Feather Fill, which will fill
most but not all of the pin holes. Then how to you fill the holes that
are left?
Another recommendation was to paint it with Corlar and then all of the
pin holes would be very obvious and could be filled.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I painted a coat of epoxy that was thinned 1/2 and 1/2 with acetone, the same procedure
used for the cowl in section 5 of your manual. It worked to fill most
of the pin holes but was a bear to sand. We then finished the small holes and
divots with 3m flowable filler. That worked nice. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass Work
We are working on the cabin cover and doors. We have talked to a number of people
about how to finish the fiberglass parts that do not have gel coat on them.
One recommendation is to brush it with Feather Fill, which will fill most but not
all of the pin holes. Then how to you fill the holes that are left?
Another recommendation was to paint it with Corlar and then all of the pin holes
would be very obvious and could be filled.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron/flap alignment |
Ah...the question I asked about the trailing edge alignment between the
flaps and ailerons, never mind,
(the flaps were not in the full up position, due to one of the pop rivets in
the top of the flap leading edge catching on the trailing edge of the wing
skin, its a nice tight fit) sorry.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron/flap alignment
>
> Richard,
>
> Given the displaced pivot for the Wing Flags, the trailing edge should be
> easily positioned relative to the aileron. I am not quite there yet (very
> soon), so I can't offer much.
>
> Are the flaps slightly "up" in order to improve cruise drag?
>
> Picture?
>
> Jim C
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2005 23:29:07 -0500
>
> For those who have mounted ailerons and flaps, are you seeing a difference
> in the trailing edge alignment in the chord dimension?
>
> My aileron is about .25 in shorter in chord than the flap.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Cushions |
products.
I'm getting bum gouge from somewhere. I talked to Barb at Van's today and she
said that they don't carry the rear seat cushions and directed me to OA. I looked
at OA's website and none was mentioned for the -10. The ones that were mentioned
said that they must be ordered through Van's.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Schmidt
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I think the rear seat cushions you order through Van's are manufactured at Van's.
At least that is what one of them told me. I tend to think they are right
because the rear seats are only $180. If they were from OA, they would be
$5000.
Scott Schmidt
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 8:37 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Out of the closet newbie builder |
Wow, I have finally done it! I am throwing my hat in the ring as another new
RV10 builder. I have been the virtual - listening in on all of your
discussions for the past year while wishing I were one of the gang. You guys
were having so much fun building while I was just sitting there with my
computer watching all of the fun. Ok, well now I am in. And since I am
totally virgin to building airplanes, I'm sure that I will be the source of
many dumb questions, chuckles, and grimaces over the months to come (maybe I
can take some of the heat off of James for a while - backward tail and all!)
I live in Richmond, VA. Just built a new house with a large basement shop. I
am so excited to have a nice space to work in! I just hope that the RV
sections will fit through the 6' French door - otherwise I'll being flying
IFR in my basement for a long time!
I am building the 10 with a partner - Park Dodd. So far we have made it
through most of the VS and parts of the rudder and HS. We are going the
Alodine/Akzo primer route (thanks Tim O, and Dan C. for your phone advice),
and are planning a full IFR, glass panel Cirrus killer.
Other bio stuff - I am 54 (old dude to this bunch) and (of course) an
electrical engineer from a previous life, been in high-tech management for
20+ years, and currently am an independent consultant providing leadership
development, executive coaching, and team building (check out my website -
I'd love referrals!). I recently moved to Virginia from Seattle (more flying
days), have a Cessna 172, about 700 hours, and am looking forward to
exploring the East Coast - and visiting other builders.
I am so excited about building an RV, but just as excited about joining this
way cool community and getting to know you guys. I guess that's enough
rambling for now (the group doesn't need another James - but I do miss him)
The newest newbie,
John T
__________________________________
John Testement
RoadMaps Consulting / SportsMind
Please visit our website at roadmapscoaching.com
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Out of the closet newbie builder |
products.
John, welcome. I'm only a skip and a hop away from you. I'm based at 2W6, MD.
and fly into Handover often. Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: John Testement
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 11:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Out of the closet newbie builder
Wow, I have finally done it! I am throwing my hat in the ring as another new
RV10 builder. I have been the virtual - listening in on all of your discussions
for the past year while wishing I were one of the gang. You guys were having
so much fun building while I was just sitting there with my computer watching
all of the fun. Ok, well now I am in. And since I am totally virgin to building
airplanes, I'm sure that I will be the source of many dumb questions, chuckles,
and grimaces over the months to come (maybe I can take some of the heat off
of James for a while - backward tail and all!)
I live in Richmond, VA. Just built a new house with a large basement shop. I
am so excited to have a nice space to work in! I just hope that the RV sections
will fit through the 6' French door - otherwise I'll being flying IFR in my
basement for a long time!
I am building the 10 with a partner - Park Dodd. So far we have made it through
most of the VS and parts of the rudder and HS. We are going the Alodine/Akzo
primer route (thanks Tim O, and Dan C. for your phone advice), and are planning
a full IFR, glass panel Cirrus killer.
Other bio stuff - I am 54 (old dude to this bunch) and (of course) an electrical
engineer from a previous life, been in high-tech management for 20+ years,
and currently am an independent consultant providing leadership development,
executive coaching, and team building (check out my website - I'd love referrals!).
I recently moved to Virginia from Seattle (more flying days), have a Cessna
172, about 700 hours, and am looking forward to exploring the East Coast -
and visiting other builders.
I am so excited about building an RV, but just as excited about joining this
way cool community and getting to know you guys. I guess that's enough rambling
for now (the group doesn't need another James - but I do miss him)
The newest newbie,
John T
__________________________________
John Testement
RoadMaps Consulting / SportsMind
Please visit our website at roadmapscoaching.com
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Out of the closet newbie builder |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
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The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
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WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Cushions |
G'day all,
For everyone's information I will reprint in its entirety Tim Olsen's
message on the Yahoo group from November 17 2004 (Message #5441).
Comments about the rear seats are in the last part of the message.
Please note that this started the now infamous "Oregon Aero Front Seat
Bunfight". Hopefully history won't repeat itself!!!!
Seeya,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
Please Archive ;-)
>ORIGINALLY POSTED BY TIM OLSEN
Hi all, I wanted to get some info on the Oregon Aero seat covering
options to post to the group, so today I emailed Oregon Aero. Here is
a 3-part message......I'll include it all.....My note, their reply,
and their quote. Looking the quote over, I think the figures are going
to give rise to a bit of price protesting. It's actually quite
stunning....and that's from someone who was thinking they'd go
Full-Oregon-Aero and probably leather. The rear seat pricing is
particularly surprising.
Part 1 - My note
I'm an RV-10 builder who just ordered their finishing kit that comes
with those great seats of yours.
Wondering a couple things....
#1. What is the final pricing to have seats covered exactly like
the original RV-10?
#2. What is the final pricing to have seats covered in Fabric
instead?
#3. Does the price inclue the fabric and the leather as above in
Question #1?
#4. What are the different fabric and color options available if
choosing to go with fabric covered seats?
#5. For the same price, would you provide the seats with something
other than the "Oregon Aero" embroidery, as many plane owners would
probably prefer to have their seats embroidered with their N-Number
or name instead? If not for the same cost, what would the cost be?
#6. What are the choices in leather colors?
#7. Is there a web link that we can view fabric/leather color choices
and options so that we can see various schemes?
I'll pass these answers along to all of the other RV-10 builders that
I speak with to save you the hassle of getting tons of email. If you
have any additional information you'd like included, please send
it along.
Thanks,
Tim
Part 2 - Their Reply
Tim,
I have attached a price quote for the RV10 upholstery. The prices
include materials and labor. We will be sending these quote sheets out
to other RV10 owners upon request.
If you click on the link below you can see the fabric colors.
http://www.oregonaero.com/p3637_2001.htm
Leather comes in almost any color. If you decide you want some leather
samples, give me a color range like Blues, Tans, Greys, etc. and I will
send you some samples. The leather colors are not on the web site.
Yes we can embroider almost anything on the seat backs. The Oregon Aero
logo is embroidered free of charge. If you want something else like your
N numbers or RV10 embroidered on the seats, the charge is $15.00 per
seat.
If you want to feel and touch the fabric, give me a mailing address and
I will send you a fabric sample pack.
Thank You,
David Esterline
Seat Department
Oregon Aero Inc
34020 Skyway Drive
Scappoose, OR 97056
phone: 800-888-6969
direct line: 503-543-8026
fax: 503-543-3573
email: davide@...
Part 3 - The Quote
RV-10 SEATS AND UPHOLSTERY
Front seat (frame required for upholstery installation):
Fabric upholstery: $570.00 per seat
Leather or Sheepskin upholstery: $870.00 per seat
Fabric & Leather combo upholstery: $720.00 per seat
Upholstery includes removable bottom cushion with Velcro attachment,
back sleeve cover with adjustable lumbar and back pocket.
Rear seat:
Cushion Cores only: $289.00 per seat
Cores w/Fabric upholstery: $689.00 per seat
Cores w/Leather or Sheepskin upholstery: $939.00 per seat
Cores w/Fabric & Leather combo upholstery: $814.00 per seat
Upholstery includes back and bottom removable covers and Velcro attachment.
Mordura fabric colors: Black, Charcoal, Grey, Blue, Teal, Burgundy,
Brown & Tan.
Leather & Sheepskin samples are available upon request. (please specify
color).
Modifications, special requests, embroidery and perforated leather may
cost extra.
Payment in full required before return shipping.
Revision date: 11/16/04
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Swap finish kit delivery positions? |
Well, waiting a couple of weeks past the Christmas cash flow crunch in January
was deadly, and we are about #60 for a Finish Kit delivery, although I figure
we are somewhere in the first 20 RV-10s as far as completion. We have some wiring
to play with, but the fuselage is done and we're going to start running out
of major things to do soon.
Anyone out there with an April or early May delivery date who won't really be
ready by then, and would like to stave off paying that $9000 balance for a few
more weeks? We can swap for our first of June delivery position. (Van's seems
to be limiting Finish kit deliveries to a leisurely 15/month pace . . .)
Anyone?
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
Randy:
Do you have a phone/email/web address for those fellows?
TDT
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I bought mine from Hi Tech foams in Nebraska. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
Hey, I just answered my own question of Randy's supplier (thanks, Google!):
http://www.seatfoam.com
TDT
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I bought mine from Hi Tech foams in Nebraska. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
Sorry for the flood of emails, but according to the Hi-Tech Foams website, they
will be at Sun N Fun, for those attending . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
I bought mine from Hi Tech foams in Nebraska. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
OK builders, got another question...
After doing the countersinks on one wing for the #8 screws, and trying
to use a #30 or 40 (can't remember which) with the nutplate to center.
It worked, but I wasn't to impressed with the quality of the finished
countersink. So, that being said, I want to buy some countersinks for
screws. Looking at Cleaveland and Avery's sites, they have #20 and #12
countersinks. Are these the right sizes for #8 and 6 screws?
Thanks,
John #40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Placed order for Empennage kit today. |
4/1/2005 April fools day; I hope this is not an omen of things to come.
I mailed a check and the order form for an RV-10 Empennage kit to Vans
today. No turning back now!
My tools are due to arrive on Monday 4/4/2005.
What am I getting myself into? (Yes, I know it'll be fun... I'm just a
bit nervous, being a first time builder)
Anyone know how long shipping on a tail kit takes to MA, and what are
the shipping charges like?
-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Placed order for Empennage kit today. |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on hestia
We paid $208 for shipping to FL and it usually takes about 3-6 business
days. We have been very surprised how quickly it comes, and you don't get
much further from Oregon in the continental US than Florida.
The only people who believe in bad omen on April "fools" day are "fools",
right? Enjoy building.
Make the most out of the metal work, guys, because the fiberglass work is a
pain (at least in comparison). I am an accountant, so I like the science of
the metal work much more than the art of the fiberglass work. On the bright
side. Working on fiberglass means you're almost finished, which is a good
thing. We just put the left door together and I am typing with fiberglass
still on my hands. Where's that acetone anyway?
Have fun.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Placed order for Empennage kit today.
4/1/2005 April fools day; I hope this is not an omen of things to come.
I mailed a check and the order form for an RV-10 Empennage kit to Vans
today. No turning back now!
My tools are due to arrive on Monday 4/4/2005.
What am I getting myself into? (Yes, I know it'll be fun... I'm just a
bit nervous, being a first time builder)
Anyone know how long shipping on a tail kit takes to MA, and what are
the shipping charges like?
-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Seat Cushions |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I will get it. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
Randy:
Do you have a phone/email/web address for those fellows?
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2005 7:24 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
=09
=09
I bought mine from Hi Tech foams in Nebraska. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 7:37 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seat Cushions
=09
=09
Are there sources to get the rear seat cushions other than OA?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L Aune <lcaune(at)cablelan.net> |
Hi John et al,
My name is Len Aune, also an old fart at 53, and I too am a fresh
starter, as in, the kit for the empannage will be here in five days.
I live in central British Columbia, a small place called Winfield, next
to Kelowna in the Okanagan. I am an instructor for a large technical
trade school called British Columbia Institute of Technology. I teach
aircraft maintenance and aircraft structures. You'd think I could build
one of these. I'm pretty exited and so are my students, since I
suggested that they would be a great help in the months to come.
(deburring comes to mind). Besides the web site of RV10.com this
should be a great place to visit often.
Len O---'-::
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Placed order for Empennage kit today. |
Well, don't know why but I had to shell out 274$ for my tail kit to
Indianapolis.
Welcome James, you're gonna like it.
Mani
>>We paid $208 for shipping to FL and it usually takes about 3-6 business
days. We have been very surprised how quickly it comes, and you don't get
much further from Oregon in the continental US than Florida.<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Placed order for Empennage kit today. |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on apophis.email.starband.net
It's probably due to rising gas prices which causes shipping prices to rise.
Ours was shipped in July.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Placed order for Empennage kit today.
Well, don't know why but I had to shell out 274$ for my tail kit to
Indianapolis.
Welcome James, you're gonna like it.
Mani
>>We paid $208 for shipping to FL and it usually takes about 3-6 business
days. We have been very surprised how quickly it comes, and you don't get
much further from Oregon in the continental US than Florida.<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: RV-10 Freight Charges |
My freight charge was $228 for the Tailcone to Central NJ in May of 2004. Wing
kit freight charge was $358 in November 2004.
William
#40237
William Curtis
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Here is what I had to do to get those right. The problem is not the size of
the pilot but the loss of support for the pilot in the thin flanges. I
built a tool out of 3/16 aluminum that was about a foot long predrilled for
the pilot. The length allowed you to clamp it tightly, so the pilot does
not wander obliging your countersink.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Droopy Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: Countersinks
OK builders, got another question...
After doing the countersinks on one wing for the #8 screws, and trying to
use a #30 or 40 (can't remember which) with the nutplate to center. It
worked, but I wasn't to impressed with the quality of the finished
countersink. So, that being said, I want to buy some countersinks for
screws. Looking at Cleaveland and Avery's sites, they have #20 and #12
countersinks. Are these the right sizes for #8 and 6 screws?
Thanks,
John #40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
Noel,
Excellent suggestion. As I was setting up to do it this way, I found my
#8 countersink bit (it says #20. Answered that part of my question). No
wandering with the supporting aluminum stock underneath and nice looking
countersinks. Now if I had just asked before I did the other wing...
John
#40208
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Countersinks
Here is what I had to do to get those right. The problem is not the
size of the pilot but the loss of support for the pilot in the thin
flanges. I built a tool out of 3/16 aluminum that was about a foot long
predrilled for the pilot. The length allowed you to clamp it tightly,
so the pilot does not wander obliging your countersink.
Noel
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Droopy
Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: Countersinks
OK builders, got another question...
After doing the countersinks on one wing for the #8 screws, and trying
to use a #30 or 40 (can't remember which) with the nutplate to center.
It worked, but I wasn't to impressed with the quality of the finished
countersink. So, that being said, I want to buy some countersinks for
screws. Looking at Cleaveland and Avery's sites, they have #20 and #12
countersinks. Are these the right sizes for #8 and 6 screws?
Thanks,
John #40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Tail Light Strobe Mounting |
Hey all...
I am in the process of finishing all my emp fairings while waiting for
my wing kit to arrive.
I am trying to mount the tail light strobe in the bottom rudder
fairing. I 5-minute epoxied the mounting nuts to the fairing, but I am
not convinced that will hold up to vibration, etc. I had to mount them
on the outside of the fairing as here wasn't enough clearance inside for
the nuts.
How have others mounted the tail light? Curious for some alternate
suggestions.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Light Strobe Mounting |
Sean,
I fabricated a mounting plate out of .040 aluminum scrap with holes on
the top and bottom for 4-40 nutserts. After the nutserts were swedged onto
the plate I epoxied the plate to the external surface of the fairing . The
fairing was cut to accept the taillight/strobe and the holes for the
nutserts. The plate fits just inside the outer retainer of the light and
thus, has the shape of that retainer. Nutserts are available from Aircraft
Spruce. This seems like a better way to attach the thing than any other
sugestion I'd received.
John Hasbrouck
# 40264
waiting for my wings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
<000801c5388c$1fb48bb0$6500a8c0@ARROW>
| Subject: | Re: Tail Light Strobe Mounting |
After you cut the hole for the tail light while holding it in place you can
drill the holes for the two screws. Then remove the light and insert the
nuts through the hole and put the screws into the nuts after putting mold
release or Vaseline on the screws. epoxy or glass the nuts in place. After
the epoxy or resin dries remove the screws and install the light fixture.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tail Light Strobe Mounting
>
> Sean,
> I fabricated a mounting plate out of .040 aluminum scrap with holes on
> the top and bottom for 4-40 nutserts. After the nutserts were swedged
> onto the plate I epoxied the plate to the external surface of the fairing
> . The fairing was cut to accept the taillight/strobe and the holes for
> the nutserts. The plate fits just inside the outer retainer of the light
> and thus, has the shape of that retainer. Nutserts are available from
> Aircraft Spruce. This seems like a better way to attach the thing than
> any other sugestion I'd received.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> # 40264
> waiting for my wings.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
products.
Most reports I hear from people flying in 410RV say it is nose heavy. Does anyone
have info regarding how much nose-heavy it is (fwd C.G)? I could've put my
ELT and Strobe Power pack further aft.
Anh
#141
(twirling thumbs awaiting finish kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
Is anyone far enough along in fuselage building that you are considering
the vents that Van's provides for the rear seats? I look at the
design, and imagine that they would be very noisy when open, and likely
leak when closed (or at least allow more wind noise). I'm a quiet freak!
Wondering if it is worthwhile fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets above. Don't know if there is
a high pressure area behind the baggage panel anywhere that one could
use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could also allow for reading lites
to be mounted above.
Am I just making too much work for myself considering these
options? Don't need more work, but want this to be the best traveling
plane I can build.
Any suggestions or experience with the stock vent in a Van's tandem
plane?
Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted now) in Willowbrook, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
products.
I thought about enclosing the inside of these vents just for looks but
haven't done anything about it yet. The noise created by the vents is
pro'ly no competition with the engine noise
Anh
#141.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
>
> Is anyone far enough along in fuselage building that you are considering
> the vents that Van's provides for the rear seats? I look at the
> design, and imagine that they would be very noisy when open, and likely
> leak when closed (or at least allow more wind noise). I'm a quiet freak!
> Wondering if it is worthwhile fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
> air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets above. Don't know if there is
> a high pressure area behind the baggage panel anywhere that one could
> use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could also allow for reading lites
> to be mounted above.
> Am I just making too much work for myself considering these
> options? Don't need more work, but want this to be the best traveling
> plane I can build.
>
> Any suggestions or experience with the stock vent in a Van's tandem
> plane?
>
> Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted now) in Willowbrook, IL
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
Just remember that everything you add increases
empty weight. I will have a four place intercom
and everyone will be wearing ANL headsets.
Robert
--- DejaVu wrote:
>
>
> I thought about enclosing the inside of these
> vents just for looks but
> haven't done anything about it yet. The noise
> created by the vents is
> pro'ly no competition with the engine noise
> Anh
> #141.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 12:04 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent
> alternatives?
>
>
>
> >
> > Is anyone far enough along in fuselage
> building that you are considering
> > the vents that Van's provides for the rear
> seats? I look at the
> > design, and imagine that they would be very
> noisy when open, and likely
> > leak when closed (or at least allow more wind
> noise). I'm a quiet freak!
> > Wondering if it is worthwhile
> fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
> > air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets
> above. Don't know if there is
> > a high pressure area behind the baggage panel
> anywhere that one could
> > use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could
> also allow for reading lites
> > to be mounted above.
> > Am I just making too much work for
> myself considering these
> > options? Don't need more work, but want this
> to be the best traveling
> > plane I can build.
> >
> > Any suggestions or experience with the
> stock vent in a Van's tandem
> > plane?
> >
> > Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted
> now) in Willowbrook, IL
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---
> mail.ameritel.net]
> >
> >
>
> ---
> mail.ameritel.net]
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
Great idea but any ideas for a baby? Has anyone seen anything for toddlers?
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
>
> Just remember that everything you add increases
> empty weight. I will have a four place intercom
> and everyone will be wearing ANL headsets.
> Robert
> --- DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>
>> I thought about enclosing the inside of these
>> vents just for looks but
>> haven't done anything about it yet. The noise
>> created by the vents is
>> pro'ly no competition with the engine noise
>> Anh
>> #141.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 12:04 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent
>> alternatives?
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Is anyone far enough along in fuselage
>> building that you are considering
>> > the vents that Van's provides for the rear
>> seats? I look at the
>> > design, and imagine that they would be very
>> noisy when open, and likely
>> > leak when closed (or at least allow more wind
>> noise). I'm a quiet freak!
>> > Wondering if it is worthwhile
>> fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
>> > air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets
>> above. Don't know if there is
>> > a high pressure area behind the baggage panel
>> anywhere that one could
>> > use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could
>> also allow for reading lites
>> > to be mounted above.
>> > Am I just making too much work for
>> myself considering these
>> > options? Don't need more work, but want this
>> to be the best traveling
>> > plane I can build.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions or experience with the
>> stock vent in a Van's tandem
>> > plane?
>> >
>> > Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted
>> now) in Willowbrook, IL
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Hi All
I am thinking of buying a pneumatic cleco tool
anybody has experience with one..good...bad...ugly ?
thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Adding babies will definitely increase your empty weight, as well. : )
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
Great idea but any ideas for a baby? Has anyone seen anything for toddlers?
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
>
> Just remember that everything you add increases
> empty weight. I will have a four place intercom
> and everyone will be wearing ANL headsets.
> Robert
> --- DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>
>> I thought about enclosing the inside of these
>> vents just for looks but
>> haven't done anything about it yet. The noise
>> created by the vents is
>> pro'ly no competition with the engine noise
>> Anh
>> #141.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 12:04 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent
>> alternatives?
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Is anyone far enough along in fuselage
>> building that you are considering
>> > the vents that Van's provides for the rear
>> seats? I look at the
>> > design, and imagine that they would be very
>> noisy when open, and likely
>> > leak when closed (or at least allow more wind
>> noise). I'm a quiet freak!
>> > Wondering if it is worthwhile
>> fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
>> > air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets
>> above. Don't know if there is
>> > a high pressure area behind the baggage panel
>> anywhere that one could
>> > use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could
>> also allow for reading lites
>> > to be mounted above.
>> > Am I just making too much work for
>> myself considering these
>> > options? Don't need more work, but want this
>> to be the best traveling
>> > plane I can build.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions or experience with the
>> stock vent in a Van's tandem
>> > plane?
>> >
>> > Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted
>> now) in Willowbrook, IL
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
I spoke with Vans on Friday to confirm that they received my wing order
in time to beat the price increase (they did). I asked if they had a
lot of RV-10 wing orders the last couple of days of the month and the
comment was that they were "overwhelmed."
The question I should have asked, and didn't, is what impact all those
orders will have on the lead time for the wings? Has anyone thought to
ask that yet? If not, perhaps the next person who's waiting on wings
that talks to Vans can get the answer and let the rest of us know.
Jeff Carpenter
Altadena, California
# 40304
Final drilling elevators, 205 hours in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pneumatic cleco fastener |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Best money you will spend. Sell it after completion if you don't need in anymore
and get most of your money back. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of son hoang
Subject: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Hi All
I am thinking of buying a pneumatic cleco tool
anybody has experience with one..good...bad...ugly ?
thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
I would think for toddlers, depending on the sex, a relief tube would be in
order, and of course you could hang some kind of airplane mobile from the
ceiling. Something with nice bright colors, and maybe airplanes flying.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
Adding babies will definitely increase your empty weight, as well. : )
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
Great idea but any ideas for a baby? Has anyone seen anything for toddlers?
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
>
> Just remember that everything you add increases
> empty weight. I will have a four place intercom
> and everyone will be wearing ANL headsets.
> Robert
> --- DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>
>> I thought about enclosing the inside of these
>> vents just for looks but
>> haven't done anything about it yet. The noise
>> created by the vents is
>> pro'ly no competition with the engine noise
>> Anh
>> #141.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 12:04 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent
>> alternatives?
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Is anyone far enough along in fuselage
>> building that you are considering
>> > the vents that Van's provides for the rear
>> seats? I look at the
>> > design, and imagine that they would be very
>> noisy when open, and likely
>> > leak when closed (or at least allow more wind
>> noise). I'm a quiet freak!
>> > Wondering if it is worthwhile
>> fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
>> > air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets
>> above. Don't know if there is
>> > a high pressure area behind the baggage panel
>> anywhere that one could
>> > use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could
>> also allow for reading lites
>> > to be mounted above.
>> > Am I just making too much work for
>> myself considering these
>> > options? Don't need more work, but want this
>> to be the best traveling
>> > plane I can build.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions or experience with the
>> stock vent in a Van's tandem
>> > plane?
>> >
>> > Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted
>> now) in Willowbrook, IL
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
> Great idea but any ideas for a baby? Has anyone seen anything for toddlers?
I'll take a new Bose headset, please! *grin*
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
G'day,
son hoang wrote:
> Hi All
> I am thinking of buying a pneumatic cleco tool
> anybody has experience with one..good...bad...ugly ?
> thanks
I picked up the pistol grip style pneumatic cleco gun from The Yard
Store for $24.95. Love it.
It isn't all that useful for most jobs or for putting clecos in, the
hand pliers arebetter for that. It comes into it's own when you have
several hundred clecos to remove (eg disassembly of HS or tailcone). I
can get into a rhythm and remove about 80 clecos a minute, all without
the nasty hand cramping at the end!!
I have no experience with the more expensive ones, but I feel the pistol
grip would be better ergonomically than the other die-grinder style grips.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
Netscape/7.2 (ax)
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Good experience with this one!
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=313&Category=88
This tool is wonderful. It is small, lightweight and cheap. Really
cheap! The hand cleco tool is OK for the one hole at a time stuff. This
tool shines when you need to remove 300 clecos for deburring or fill all
the holes for riveting. Other pneumatic cleco tools probably work well
too but many are too expensive to justify. This one is so cheap you
could buy two.
This tool, for example, is probably very nice but the price tag is a
deterrent. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/clecoinstall.php
Mark
son hoang wrote:
> Hi All
> I am thinking of buying a pneumatic cleco tool
> anybody has experience with one..good...bad...ugly ?
> thanks
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Mark Grieve wrote:
> Good experience with this one!
> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=313&Category=88
>
Any feedback on their "home builders kit #14550" ?
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=563&Category=106
Would I be better off buying individual pieces from various
sources?
I have nothing for tools yet, and am just starting my
obsession, er, collection. I'm hoping there are some specials
during Sun-n-Fun that I can order from home since I can't
make it this year...
Thanks,
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Chapman" <bcrnfnps(at)swoi.net> |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Hi all,
Along these lines, is there an advantage to using wedgelocks versus clecos?
Ebay has a lot of wedgelock guns for sale pretty inexpensive. TIA
Barry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
>
> Mark Grieve wrote:
>> Good experience with this one!
>> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=313&Category=88
>>
>
> Any feedback on their "home builders kit #14550" ?
> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=563&Category=106
>
> Would I be better off buying individual pieces from various
> sources?
>
> I have nothing for tools yet, and am just starting my
> obsession, er, collection. I'm hoping there are some specials
> during Sun-n-Fun that I can order from home since I can't
> make it this year...
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dj
>
> --
> Dj Merrill
> deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
>
> "TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool kits (was Pneumatic cleco fastener) |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
G'day again,
Dj Merrill wrote:
> Any feedback on their "home builders kit #14550" ?
> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=563&Category=106
> Would I be better off buying individual pieces from various
> sources?
I have no experience or knowledge of the quality of the tools in this kit.
At the end of the day, for someone jsut starting out the best idea is
usually to buy a full kit such as this. It works out cheaper and is
much less hassle than buying all the tools individually.
I bought my kit from Cleaveland Tools. Can't say good enough things
about the service and the quality of all the tools is excellent. Many
people order their kits from Avery and say the same things. Both these
companies are owned and run by fellow RVators.
Essentially, when buying tools you get what you pay for. Often paying a
little more now saves you pain and cost later on.
Also note that if you are building a -10 there are nowhere near enough
clecos supplied in the kits. I have 550 3/32" clecos and still wish for
more sometimes (Tailcone is BIG).
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <006801c53983$4aa0ac30$ef00000a@main>
G'day,
Barry Chapman wrote:
> Along these lines, is there an advantage to using wedgelocks versus
> clecos? Ebay has a lot of wedgelock guns for sale pretty inexpensive. TIA
They are exactly the same, just different brand names. Cleco was the
original brand and has been adopted as the generic term, much like
Xerox-ing, despite the fact everyone makes copiers. The 'clecos' sold
by Cleaveland Tools are Wedge-Loc.
A note on Ebay, especially with regards to clecos. I have been looking
around recently and found that this stuff often sells for much higher
prices on Ebay than you could buy it for from one of the tool shops.
For example, there is a set of cleco pliers at $8.50 with a couple of
days to go. The exact same item at Cleaveland is $7. I have seen
clecos sell for about $1-1.50 each, despite being 70c each at the tool
shops.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
Netscape/7.2 (ax)
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Sorry, I can't advise you on this kit, perhaps someone else can. It has
many of the tools you will need. The Tatco squeezer is my second choice.
Nicely finished, works well and is a good tool but I like Avery's
squeezer better because the head can be interchanged with a C type
pneumatic squeezer and it has a longer reach. No matter what tool kit
you buy there will be something more that you will need right away. You
can download TheYard catalog and print it out yourself. Request hard
copy catalogs from Avery, Cleveland, Brown, Aircraft Spruce, Wicks and
anyone else you can think of. Be sure to look up my favorite,
http://www.airpartsinc.com.
Here are a few suggestions and tips.
You will be countersinking #30 and #40 holes so get an extra countersink
and have one for each size. That way you won' t have to adjust it every
time you switch cutters. That $15 will save you time and trouble.
airpartsinc.com has the lowest price I have seen at $10.50 on page 13.
There is a big difference in fluting pliers. Stay away from the Made in
China set with orange handles and a plastic inserts for the jaws. They
simply don't work. I used a wonderful set based on a small set of Vise
Grips. Check the usual number of airplane tool catalogs. Brown has them.
http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?productid=222
Get some copper colored model paint and mark the 1/8 inch countersink,
dimple dies and rivet sets. The 3/32 dimple dies are already color coded
silver but you may want to put some silver paint on the countersink. I
have built 3 RV tails and I can't think of one place where we set a 3/32
inch universal head rivet. You can probably put that rivet set in a
bottom drawer but put a silver stripe on it first.
Buy an automatic center punch.
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=857 You
will be drilling out a lot of rivets and this tool gets the job started
more easily. One hand operation.
I could go on like this all night but I haven't had dinner.
Do you have the kit in hand or are you waiting for it to arrive?
Mark
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Mark Grieve wrote:
>
>> Good experience with this one!
>> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=313&Category=88
>>
>>
>
> Any feedback on their "home builders kit #14550" ?
> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=563&Category=106
>
>
> Would I be better off buying individual pieces from various
> sources?
>
> I have nothing for tools yet, and am just starting my
> obsession, er, collection. I'm hoping there are some specials
> during Sun-n-Fun that I can order from home since I can't
> make it this year...
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tool kits (was Pneumatic cleco fastener) |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <4251F7B3.6060105(at)tpg.com.au>
Regarding cleco count....
I have about 750 3/32" clecos, and from what I can gather after working
through the wings, that's about right.
Tim
Scott Lewis wrote:
>
> G'day again,
>
> Dj Merrill wrote:
>
>> Any feedback on their "home builders kit #14550" ?
>> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=563&Category=106
>> Would I be better off buying individual pieces from various
>> sources?
>
>
> I have no experience or knowledge of the quality of the tools in this kit.
>
> At the end of the day, for someone jsut starting out the best idea is
> usually to buy a full kit such as this. It works out cheaper and is
> much less hassle than buying all the tools individually.
>
> I bought my kit from Cleaveland Tools. Can't say good enough things
> about the service and the quality of all the tools is excellent. Many
> people order their kits from Avery and say the same things. Both these
> companies are owned and run by fellow RVators.
>
> Essentially, when buying tools you get what you pay for. Often paying a
> little more now saves you pain and cost later on.
>
> Also note that if you are building a -10 there are nowhere near enough
> clecos supplied in the kits. I have 550 3/32" clecos and still wish for
> more sometimes (Tailcone is BIG).
>
> Have fun,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
Netscape/7.2 (ax)
| Subject: | Origin of the cleco? |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <006801c53983$4aa0ac30$ef00000a@main>
<4251FB81.4090605(at)tpg.com.au>
Scott Lewis wrote:
> Cleco was the original brand and has been adopted as the generic term,
> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact everyone makes copiers.
Yes, there are many companies making "clecos" but who invented these
wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't found much information.
Any manufacturing historians out there?
MG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <006801c53983$4aa0ac30$ef00000a@main>
<4251FB81.4090605(at)tpg.com.au> <42520040.7020200(at)macomb.com>
While you are getting tools you should consider a Cogsdill deburring tool in
at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill these will make short work of
the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides of the hole in one pass.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>
>
> Scott Lewis wrote:
>
>> Cleco was the original brand and has been adopted as the generic term,
>> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact everyone makes copiers.
>
> Yes, there are many companies making "clecos" but who invented these
> wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't found much information. Any
> manufacturing historians out there?
> MG
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <4251FC25.6080009(at)macomb.com>
G'day,
Mark Grieve wrote:
> The Tatco squeezer is my second choice.
> Nicely finished, works well and is a good tool but I like Avery's
> squeezer better because the head can be interchanged with a C type
> pneumatic squeezer and it has a longer reach.
I have used all the squeezers, Tatco, Avery and Cleaveland. I suggest
any new builder also does this if they have the opportunity before they
buy their tools.
I bought the Cleaveland tool kit over the Avery on the basis on the
squeezer. I find it excellent; light weight, interchangable heads and
less force required than the others.
Avery is also good; interchangable heads, long handles to reduce the
force and easy to use.
Tatco I found, quite honestly, to be awful. The heads are small and
difficult to change and the force required to set a rivet will soon tire
most people.
All my own opinion. Others will have different thoughts.
> have built 3 RV tails and I can't think of one place where we set a 3/32
> inch universal head rivet. You can probably put that rivet set in a
> bottom drawer but put a silver stripe on it first.
Haven't built a -10 have you. They are there at the bottom of the
Vertical stabiliser.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
<4251E82F.10201(at)macomb.com> <4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
<006801c53983$4aa0ac30$ef00000a@main> <4251FB81.4090605(at)tpg.com.au>
<003a01c53991$20cd1700$39c90304@starnfamily>
Went on line after I sent the post below. The Yard Store, www.yardstore.com
has the two most used cleco sizes for .25 each "USED". Say Again, 10-9,
Huh, What ?, (sorry I didn't do that first) KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
Folks,
I ordered 1,000 3/32 clecos and then the number went down from there as the
sizes went up.
Aircraft Tool Supply had a special last December. NEW ones were somewhere
around .37 cents each. Chief and Aircraft Spruce were all in the 42-47
range or so.
I don't know the current price. Check out their website.
<http://www.aircraft-tool.com/>
Des Lynch and his crew are great.
Dave Talley
N2359 (N2FLY)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
ATS has them for 35 cents each (NEW!!!)
<http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/search_result.aspx?PageNo=2>
DCT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cleco History 1st find... |
Here's my first find:
http://www.companyreports.com/cnoc/GIXoct97.html
Here's an excerpt:
Well before the wall, 1899 to be exact, the company was founded as
Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Company in the city of the same name. In 1969 the
now legendary Dresser bought the Cleco Tool Division which grew up to
become Global's Industrial Tool Division (INTOOL) representing three
segments of its own:
Industrial Tool Division-Cleco=AE (established 1894, maker of portable air
tools), Roto Tool=AE (established in 1927 and a recent merger with Industrial
Tool who now makes air tools, DC electric tools, and electronic controls,),
and Quackenbush=AE (established 1947, makers of precision drilling
equipment); Industrial Energy Products Division - Airetool =AE(established
1929, making tube cleaners and expanders), and Kotthaus+Busch=AE (established
1846, producers of tube expansion and electronic expansion controls); and
ITD Automation Division - ITD AUTOMATION=AE (established 1987, makers of
assembly and fastening systems).
CLECO=AE and QUACKENBUSH=AE products are made in Houston; AIRETOOL=AE and
KOTTHAUS+BUSH=AE in Springfield, Ohio; ITD AUTOMATION=AE in Auburn Hill,
Michigan; and ROTOR=AE in Cleveland, Ohio.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
| Subject: | Cleco History 1st find... |
Thanks for a great insight and interesting reading.
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David & Miriam
Talley
Subject: RV10-List: Cleco History 1st find...
Here's my first find:
http://www.companyreports.com/cnoc/GIXoct97.html
<http://www.companyreports.com/cnoc/GIXoct97.html>
Here's an excerpt:
Well before the wall, 1899 to be exact, the company was founded as Cleveland
Pneumatic Tool Company in the city of the same name. In 1969 the now
legendary Dresser bought the Cleco Tool Division which grew up to become
Global's Industrial Tool Division (INTOOL) representing three segments of
its own:
Industrial Tool Division-Cleco(r) (established 1894, maker of portable air
tools), Roto Tool(r) (established in 1927 and a recent merger with
March 23, 2005 - April 04, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ac