RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ad
April 04, 2005 - April 21, 2005
Industrial Tool who now makes air tools, DC electric tools, and electronic
controls,), and Quackenbush(r) (established 1947, makers of precision
drilling equipment); Industrial Energy Products Division - Airetool
(r)(established 1929, making tube cleaners and expanders), and
Kotthaus+Busch(r) (established 1846, producers of tube expansion and
electronic expansion controls); and ITD Automation Division - ITD
AUTOMATION(r) (established 1987, makers of assembly and fastening systems).
CLECO(r) and QUACKENBUSH(r) products are made in Houston; AIRETOOL(r) and
KOTTHAUS+BUSH(r) in Springfield, Ohio; ITD AUTOMATION(r) in Auburn Hill,
Michigan; and ROTOR(r) in Cleveland, Ohio.
Thanks for a great insight and interesting
reading.
John Cox
From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of David Miriam Talley
PM
1st find...
Here's my first find:
http://www.companyreports.com/cnoc/GIXoct97.html
Here's an excerpt:
Well
before the wall, 1899 to be exact, the company was founded as Cleveland Pneumatic
Tool Company in the city of the same name. In 1969 the now legendary Dresser
bought the Cleco Tool Division which grew up to become Global's Industrial Tool
Division (INTOOL) representing three segments of its own:
Industrial
Tool Division-Cleco(r) (established 1894, maker of portable air tools), Roto
Tool(r) (established in 1927 and a recent merger with Industrial Tool who now
makes air tools, DC electric tools, and electronic controls,), and Quackenbush(r)
(established 1947, makers of precision drilling equipment); Industrial Energy
Products Division - Airetool (r)(established 1929, making tube cleaners and
expanders), and Kotthaus+Busch(r) (established 1846, producers of tube expansion
and electronic expansion controls); and ITD Automation Division - ITD
AUTOMATION(r) (established 1987, makers of assembly and fastening systems).
CLECO(r)
and QUACKENBUSH(r) products are made in Houston; AIRETOOL(r) and KOTTHAUS+BUSH(r)
in
Springfield, Ohio; ITD AUTOMATION(r) in Auburn Hill, Michigan; and ROTOR(r) in
Cleveland, Ohio.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
Here's another interesting tibbit:
http://www.cleveland.com/news/plaindealer/index.ssf?/base/news/110224273971570.xml#continue
Excerpt:
Styler, 83, was born in Cleveland. He attended South High School during the
day while taking night courses in the machine shop at East Technical High
School. When he graduated from South in 1939, he started working at
Cleveland Pneumatic Tool Co. He served as a machinist's mate in the Navy
during World War II in the South Pacific.
He returned to Cleveland Pneumatic after the war. The company, now known as
Goodrich Aerospace, recently gave him a 65-year service award. He was on
the company payroll from 1939 until he died.
NOTE: This indicates what happened to the company, however, the first
posting shows that the CLECO DIVISION was purchased by Dresser.
Anyone else found anything?
DCT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cleveland to INTOOL to Cooper |
Just found this:
http://www.shareholder.com/cooper/news/19980312-2991.htm
Excerpt:
HOUSTON, Mar. 12 -- Cooper Industries, Inc. (NYSE-CBE) today announced it
had completed its acquisition of INTOOL, a division of Global Industrial
Technologies, Inc. (NYSE-GIX), for $217.5 million. INTOOL, Cooper's third
addition to its power tool product line since January, is a Houston-based
manufacturer of industrial and commercial power tools, with 1997 sales of
$113 million.
More to follow!
DCT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
Cooper has two answers to the site search for cleco:
Here's one for employment opportunities:
COOPER TOOLS
Heqadquartered in Lexington, SC, Cooper Tools' primary product lines
include pneumatic and DC electric tools, screwdriver bits, impact sockets,
universal joints, hoists, and assembly equipment sold under the Airetool,
Apex, Geta, Buckeye, Cleco, Doler, Dotco, Master Power, Metronix,
Quackenbush, Recoules and Utica trademarks, and licensed trademarks
Gardner-Denver and DGD. Cooper Tools has manufacturing facilities in five
U.S. and four international locations, and approximately 1,800 employees
worldwide.
For more information about career opportunities with Cooper Tools, follow
the employment links on our website or contact our
<http://www.cooperindustries.com/employment//employment/whyCooper.cfm>human
resources department.
DCT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "son hoang" <son(at)hoangs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Thanks to all who provided advice, opinion and comments...I'll go ahead and buy
one... ($65 is best price I found.so far at the Yardstore.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 4:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Best money you will spend. Sell it after completion if you don't need in anymore
and get most of your money back. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of son hoang
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 3:49 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Hi All
I am thinking of buying a pneumatic cleco tool
anybody has experience with one..good...bad...ugly ?
thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Rear passenger vent alternatives? |
I have been thinking about it too although I am far FAR away from there yet.
1. The eye ball outlets for the rear should also be heated cabin air. How
will you heat it if you get it from a >pressure area in the rear? Have not
yet examined it carefully how it is done in the Cherokee 6, my brother in
law flies one. Should not be too hard to adapt to the _10.
2. Anyone putting in a set of smaller seat belt set in the middle of the
rear seat for a "small" pass? I sometimes give rides to children - my lil
one's friends and it would be nice to have 3 in the back. Weight is not the
issue.
Mani Ravee
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
Great idea but any ideas for a baby? Has anyone seen anything for toddlers?
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent alternatives?
>
> Just remember that everything you add increases
> empty weight. I will have a four place intercom
> and everyone will be wearing ANL headsets.
> Robert
> --- DejaVu wrote:
>>
>>
>> I thought about enclosing the inside of these
>> vents just for looks but
>> haven't done anything about it yet. The noise
>> created by the vents is
>> pro'ly no competition with the engine noise
>> Anh
>> #141.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 12:04 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rear passenger vent
>> alternatives?
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> > Is anyone far enough along in fuselage
>> building that you are considering
>> > the vents that Van's provides for the rear
>> seats? I look at the
>> > design, and imagine that they would be very
>> noisy when open, and likely
>> > leak when closed (or at least allow more wind
>> noise). I'm a quiet freak!
>> > Wondering if it is worthwhile
>> fabricating a ceiling tunnel to bring
>> > air from the tailcone to eyeball outlets
>> above. Don't know if there is
>> > a high pressure area behind the baggage panel
>> anywhere that one could
>> > use for air inlet . A ceiling tunnel could
>> also allow for reading lites
>> > to be mounted above.
>> > Am I just making too much work for
>> myself considering these
>> > options? Don't need more work, but want this
>> to be the best traveling
>> > plane I can build.
>> >
>> > Any suggestions or experience with the
>> stock vent in a Van's tandem
>> > plane?
>> >
>> > Phil White #40220 (fuse sides being riveted
>> now) in Willowbrook, IL
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ---
>> mail.ameritel.net]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Son, we all bought it from the yard at 24$. Call them up and talk to them.
They are very nice. I got a lot of stuff from them and they are wonderful.
They also have rebuilt pneumatic squeezers which work just as well.
Mani Ravee
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of son hoang
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Thanks to all who provided advice, opinion and comments...I'll go ahead and
buy one... ($65 is best price I found.so far at the Yardstore.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Best money you will spend. Sell it after completion if you don't need in
anymore and get most of your money back. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of son hoang
Subject: RV10-List: Pneumatic cleco fastener
Hi All
I am thinking of buying a pneumatic cleco tool
anybody has experience with one..good...bad...ugly ?
thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Chapman" <bcrnfnps(at)swoi.net> |
<4251ED01.1060400(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <006801c53983$4aa0ac30$ef00000a@main>
<4251FB81.4090605(at)tpg.com.au>
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco fastener |
Scott,
Thanks for the info. Some of the pictures (on Ebay) showed wingnuts and
others didn't. After I searched and didn't find anything on Google (didn't
look too hard), I went to Brown Tool Co (http://www.browntool.com) and they
had an explanation of what each was used for. The wing nut and also the hex
head "clecos" offer stronger holding power as well as variable length.
As mentioned Avery, Cleveland, etc are good tool companies. I also found
http://www.planetool.com has a tool set at $1795 and includes lots of
Snap-on tools in it (hence replaceable if broken).
Gonna build oneof these days!!!!!!
Barry
>
> Barry Chapman wrote:
>> Along these lines, is there an advantage to using wedgelocks versus
>> clecos? Ebay has a lot of wedgelock guns for sale pretty inexpensive.
>> TIA
>
> Scott Lewis wrote:
>They are exactly the same, just different brand names. Cleco was the
>original brand and has been adopted as the generic term, much like
>Xerox-ing, despite the fact everyone makes copiers. The 'clecos' sold by
>Cleaveland Tools are Wedge-Loc.
>
> A note on Ebay, especially with regards to clecos. I have been looking
> around recently and found that this stuff often sells for much higher
> prices on Ebay than you could buy it for from one of the tool shops. For
> example, there is a set of cleco pliers at $8.50 with a couple of days to
> go. The exact same item at Cleaveland is $7. I have seen clecos sell for
> about $1-1.50 each, despite being 70c each at the tool shops.
>
> Have fun,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
> Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Deburring aileron counter weights |
I've been putting this one off for a while... The ailerons use a stainless
steel tube counterweights that have a bunch of holes drilled into them. What
works for deburring? I've tried cogsdil bits and using a 3/8" dowel covered w/
sandpaper without much success. Steel burrs are really tough.
Thanks,
Jay
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
great.
Robert
--- David McNeill wrote:
> McNeill"
>
> While you are getting tools you should consider
> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> these will make short work of
> the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides
> of the hole in one pass.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >
> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> adopted as the generic term,
> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> everyone makes copiers.
> >
> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
> but who invented these
> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
> found much information. Any
> > manufacturing historians out there?
> > MG
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
http://www.cogsdill.com/products.html
They have the double deburring tools. I also purchased several extra
blades and I got their machine countersinking tool and extra guides.
DCT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Try http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html I believe the
tool and first blade about $50. replacement blades about $8. Blades last a
long time but forcing them through a hole can break them so buy an extra.
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
> Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> great.
> Robert
> --- David McNeill wrote:
>> McNeill"
>>
>> While you are getting tools you should consider
>> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
>> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
>> these will make short work of
>> the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides
>> of the hole in one pass.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Scott Lewis wrote:
>> >
>> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
>> adopted as the generic term,
>> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
>> everyone makes copiers.
>> >
>> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
>> but who invented these
>> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
>> found much information. Any
>> > manufacturing historians out there?
>> > MG
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill McCoy <hoverlover9797(at)yahoo.com> |
What size Double Deburring tool do we need/want to get for Tail cone to Finish
kit?
David & Miriam Talley
http://www.cogsdill.com/products.html
They have the double deburring tools. I also purchased several extra
blades and I got their machine countersinking tool and extra guides.
DCT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Here is a better link. http://www.cogsdill.com/products.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
> Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> great.
> Robert
> --- David McNeill wrote:
>> McNeill"
>>
>> While you are getting tools you should consider
>> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
>> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
>> these will make short work of
>> the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides
>> of the hole in one pass.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Scott Lewis wrote:
>> >
>> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
>> adopted as the generic term,
>> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
>> everyone makes copiers.
>> >
>> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
>> but who invented these
>> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
>> found much information. Any
>> > manufacturing historians out there?
>> > MG
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> to browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Sorry when I said 30 and 40 I was referring to drill sizes. The only ones needed
are 3/32 and 1/8. There are few if any rivets in the Van's kit larger than 3
or 4 that is 3/32 and 1/8.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill McCoy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill
What size Double Deburring tool do we need/want to get for Tail cone to Finish
kit?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
I thought the concept of these tools was great and they work very well on steel,
I felt they were a bit "agressive" on the aluminum. especially the thinner sheets.
Mike Howe said his worked great for him. Looks like everyones mileage is
variable. They aren't the cheapest things around, If I recall they were about
$40 each.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Best place to get them is right from the company. Direct price is the
cheapest and the actual product name is the Burraway. Saves lot's of
time doing one pass, powered, deburring. You can also chuck it up in a
drill press for lots of smaller parts like ribs. I think I blew through
all or the flange holes on my HS ribs in less than 5 minutes. You will
still need the old manual deburrer though for larger or odd sized items.
www.cogsdill.com
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds great.
Robert
--- David McNeill wrote:
> McNeill"
>
> While you are getting tools you should consider a Cogsdill deburring
> tool in at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill these will make
> short work of the hole cleaning and deburring of both sides of the
> hole in one pass.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
>
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >
> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> adopted as the generic term,
> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> everyone makes copiers.
> >
> > Yes, there are many companies making "clecos"
> but who invented these
> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I haven't
> found much information. Any
> > manufacturing historians out there?
> > MG
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
I agree! I have been using this tool almost
exclusively to deburr all the holes. When properly
adjusted they remove the burr perfectly without taking
off too much material. It is very easy to use. The
best source is from Cogsdill directly for the 3/32 &
1/8 sizes. I have several of the larger sizes I would
sell for $5 each. If you are interested in any of the
larger sizes e-mail me at sfdarton(at)yahoo.com
Steve 40212 wings arrive next week
--- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
wrote:
> (Michael Sausen)"
>
> Best place to get them is right from the company.
> Direct price is the
> cheapest and the actual product name is the
> Burraway. Saves lot's of
> time doing one pass, powered, deburring. You can
> also chuck it up in a
> drill press for lots of smaller parts like ribs. I
> think I blew through
> all or the flange holes on my HS ribs in less than 5
> minutes. You will
> still need the old manual deburrer though for larger
> or odd sized items.
>
>
> www.cogsdill.com
>
> Michael
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
My QB wings are about 8 (four hand ) hours from completion. The reason I am
emailing this morning is that I await the trip to the Fedex terminal to meet
the tilt bed truck to pickup the QB fuselage, finish kit and FF kits. Three
hours to go.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: tools
>
> I agree! I have been using this tool almost
> exclusively to deburr all the holes. When properly
> adjusted they remove the burr perfectly without taking
> off too much material. It is very easy to use. The
> best source is from Cogsdill directly for the 3/32 &
> 1/8 sizes. I have several of the larger sizes I would
> sell for $5 each. If you are interested in any of the
> larger sizes e-mail me at sfdarton(at)yahoo.com
> Steve 40212 wings arrive next week
> --- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
> wrote:
>> (Michael Sausen)"
>>
>> Best place to get them is right from the company.
>> Direct price is the
>> cheapest and the actual product name is the
>> Burraway. Saves lot's of
>> time doing one pass, powered, deburring. You can
>> also chuck it up in a
>> drill press for lots of smaller parts like ribs. I
>> think I blew through
>> all or the flange holes on my HS ribs in less than 5
>> minutes. You will
>> still need the old manual deburrer though for larger
>> or odd sized items.
>>
>>
>> www.cogsdill.com
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gluing in the windows |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
This weekend I finished gluing in the windows on the doors and the rear
windows and have a few recommendations.
The glue that Van's supply's dries very very fast once it is applied to
the door flange. On the first door I did exactly what the instructions
said,"place a thin layer of glue on the flange". Well, the glue dries
in about 10 seconds when applied thin like that. I had to immediately
place a second, thicker layer, to the flange. The first door ended up
with some air pockets but it is definitely not coming out. On the second
door I put the glue into a syringe and applied it much faster and much
thicker and then put the window in and squeezed out and excess. The
second window turned out perfect.
On the rear windows I had to use the washers to move the window out and
make it flush with the top. Again the first window I found that I did
not apply enough glue and had a few air pockets. I think I am try
drilling some small holes from the inside out and filling the air
pockets but I also may not worry about it.
Make sure you use plenty of glue and do it quickly. It seems like the
glue that is exposed to air dries very quickly but once to get the
window on it takes about 15-20 minutes to set up to the point that it
will not move. Overall they were not too bad. I'm now working on the
installation of the door mechanism and wondering how to put a lock on
it.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
Phone contact for deburring (both sides same hole) tool ... ordering direct
Kathleen 803-438-0240
I ordered YA-00938 this is the 3/32" $46.50 spare blades 8.60 ea.
YA-01250 this is the 1/8" 37.80 spares
7.60
They accept VISA or MC ship UPS
Very nice folks to deal with
Regards ...
Jerry Grimmonpre
RV7A
Huntley IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com |
| Subject: | Cogsdill Burraway tool |
These are great tools. I have the 3/32 and 1/8th and it is hard to remember life
without them. I am really glad I heard about them early in the building process.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Skinning HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
1.27 SUBJ_HAS_UNIQ_ID Subject contains a unique ID
Folks:
Cracked the Empcone boxes and did the inventory. One table built. Two more
to go. Journey begins.
John Jessen
(N212PJ reserved; Empcone 0%)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
Concerning deburring tools,I just got this email
from Cogsdill:
ROBERT,
YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR REP
FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL PHONE
# 803-328-6326.
THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
$46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3 DAYS.
THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
REGARDS,
LINDA SMITH
These seem pricy but considering the deburring I
have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
the sizes I need?
Robert
--- David McNeill wrote:
> McNeill"
>
> Try
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> I believe the
> tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> blades about $8. Blades last a
> long time but forcing them through a hole can
> break them so buy an extra.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
>
>
> >
> > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> > great.
> > Robert
> > --- David McNeill wrote:
> >> McNeill"
> >>
> >> While you are getting tools you should
> consider
> >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> >> these will make short work of
> >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> sides
> >> of the hole in one pass.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
> >> To:
> >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> >>
> >>
> Grieve
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> >> adopted as the generic term,
> >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> >> everyone makes copiers.
> >> >
> >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> "clecos"
> >> but who invented these
> >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> haven't
> >> found much information. Any
> >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> >> > MG
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> to browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> Chat, FAQ,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
One thing I have noticed.
At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased some 10"
long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated smileys for
me.
I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more steady
and maintain correct angle.
Just an observation.
Jim Combs
#40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Deburring aileron counter weights |
That Stainless is really some tough stuff!
I wrapped a small sheet of sandpaper to a wood dowl and chucked the dowl in a cordless
drill. used foam pad under the paper to get a snug fit.
Ran the dowl / sandpaper up and down the tube. Cleaned the burrs off.
They are tough to remove. Not at all like the aluminum.
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 06:14:57 -0700 (PDT)
I've been putting this one off for a while... The ailerons use a stainless
steel tube counterweights that have a bunch of holes drilled into them. What
works for deburring? I've tried cogsdil bits and using a 3/8" dowel covered w/
sandpaper without much success. Steel burrs are really tough.
Thanks,
Jay
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com |
In my opinion, they are worth every cent. I thought the same thing when
I was deciding to purchase. Now...I would not give mine up.
Kent Forsythe
40338
HS-Skinning
Wings-Awaiting Delivery
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
Concerning deburring tools,I just got this email
from Cogsdill:
ROBERT,
YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR REP
FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL PHONE
# 803-328-6326.
THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
$46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3 DAYS.
THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
REGARDS,
LINDA SMITH
These seem pricy but considering the deburring I
have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
the sizes I need?
Robert
--- David McNeill wrote:
> McNeill"
>
> Try
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> I believe the
> tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> blades about $8. Blades last a
> long time but forcing them through a hole can
> break them so buy an extra.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
>
>
> >
> > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> > great.
> > Robert
> > --- David McNeill wrote:
> >> McNeill"
> >>
> >> While you are getting tools you should
> consider
> >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> >> these will make short work of
> >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> sides
> >> of the hole in one pass.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
> >> To:
> >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> >>
> >>
> Grieve
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> >> adopted as the generic term,
> >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> >> everyone makes copiers.
> >> >
> >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> "clecos"
> >> but who invented these
> >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> haven't
> >> found much information. Any
> >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> >> > MG
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> to browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> Chat, FAQ,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
Anyone interested in a group buy of 7 sets?
Wonder what the price break is?
Jim Combs
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 13:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
Concerning deburring tools,I just got this email
from Cogsdill:
ROBERT,
YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR REP
FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL PHONE
# 803-328-6326.
THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
$46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3 DAYS.
THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
REGARDS,
LINDA SMITH
These seem pricy but considering the deburring I
have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
the sizes I need?
Robert
--- David McNeill wrote:
> McNeill"
>
> Try
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> I believe the
> tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> blades about $8. Blades last a
> long time but forcing them through a hole can
> break them so buy an extra.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
>
>
>
> >
> > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It sounds
> > great.
> > Robert
> > --- David McNeill wrote:
> >> McNeill"
> >>
> >> While you are getting tools you should
> consider
> >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air drill
> >> these will make short work of
> >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> sides
> >> of the hole in one pass.
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
> >> To:
> >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> >>
> >>
> Grieve
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has been
> >> adopted as the generic term,
> >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> >> everyone makes copiers.
> >> >
> >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> "clecos"
> >> but who invented these
> >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> haven't
> >> found much information. Any
> >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> >> > MG
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> to browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> Chat, FAQ,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Are you using a piece of masking tape on the end of the set? When I first
started building my -4 I was getting a lot of smilies. I then started using a
piece of masking tape taped to the end of the set in the rivet gun and it
eliminated the problem. It provides just enough cushion to keep the set from
wanting to bounce off, and it cushions out the other tool marks. Also use it
on the flat set for flush head rivets. Replace it when it either rips
through or appears worn.
Mike Kraus
N223RV - RV-4 Flying
N213RV - RV-10 - Working on wings......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>One thing I have noticed.
>
>At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased
>some 10" long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated
>smileys for me.
>
>I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more
>steady and maintain correct angle.
>
>Just an observation.
>
>Jim Combs
>#40192
I also seem to get better results with the longer sets. Could be due to the
added mass of the set. It is also easier to align the set perfectly square
to the surface as the longer set can be seen readily, reflected in the shiny
aluminum to key you in on gun alignment.
Just my observation to your observation!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on apollo
Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we don't
get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the
future. We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when we
get to that point on the -10?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up with
any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their RV-10? I kind
of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield
Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we don't get
any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the future.
We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when we get to that
point on the -10?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we
>don't
>get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the
>future. We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when
>we
>get to that point on the -10?
>
>
>Jesse Saint
As permanent as can be. It does seem rather short sighted, but it IS simple
and eliminates the heart thumping experience of drilling all those holes in
the plexiglass...while praying you don't crack it. That's the usual RV
experience....fearing a $700 crack while installing the canopy. The only
way around the glue approach I can think of is attachment via flush screws
into nutplates. The window ledges in the lid would have to be cleaned up
and painted to match the aircraft color scheme for cosmetic reasons, or,
could carry the finish paint color over the glass to a masked line just
inside the screws. It's all a compromise of ease of service/future
replacement vs. cosmetics. They seldom are mutually supportive!
I'm currently dealing with this on my -8. The windshield started detaching
from the molded carbon fiber/epoxyglass fairing around the front deck.
Lycosaur shake is to blame I'm sure. So, I'm having to grind off the
fairing, as it was showing cracks in the paint....not the fairing itself,
but the high build primer the paint guy used. I'm essentially rebuilding
the fairing and painting to best color match as I can get. Oh yeah, this
should be fun. Some RV'ers have gone with screws into nuts, nutserts, etc,
and molded the windshield fairing as a separate, detachable unit. The
windshield is screwed to the rollbar under the fairing so the whole thing
can be taken off easily. They actually look very nice when done with care,
but not as nice as an integral windshield/fairing unit all glued and blended
in to the fuselage deck. It's all a matter of personal taste.
Thanks for bringing this up. I've been pondering it myself.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD finishing off the never ending annual.
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up
>with any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their
>RV-10? I kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
>
>TDT
I'm not overly concerned about it...yet. I figure if they want the stuff
bad enough, they'll smash, cut and destroy the door or window, THEN take
what they want. I'd prefer they just open the door without mangling all my
hard work, take the stuff and leave. A phone call to insurance dude would
be the next step.
No right answer to this one, that's for sure. Locks only keep honest people
honest. The hard core punks will stop at nothing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | QB fuselage,Finish and FF kits unloading |
About 1400 pounds arrived today. 3 boxes (700+,400+200+) were loaded at the Fedex
terminal onto an auto recovery tilt bed truck. At my garage 700+ slid/pushed
to rear as bed tilted and two 1000 rated furniture dollies placed under. box
slid the rest off the way of bed and moved to garage location. Other boxes handled
same way. Use the tow trucks tilt bed if you do not have access to a fork
lift.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Locks
It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up with
any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their RV-10? I
kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:47 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield
Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we don't
get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the future.
We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when we get to
that point on the -10?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
I've made the decision that door locks will only make me lose $50K worth
of electronics AND have to replace a window and/or a door. :)
-Sean #40303
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone
> come up with any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks
> for their RV-10? I kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of
> electronics . . .
> TDT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Jesse
> Saint
> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:47 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Windshield
>
> Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope
> we dont get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to
> replace in the future. We have replaced windows in our 172 an
> PA-14. What happens when we get to that point on the -10?
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Maybe the automatic flame-thrower alarm system would work . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Locks
>It's been mentioned tangentially a couple of times, but has anyone come up
>with any good ideas or made any movement towards door locks for their
>RV-10? I kind of don't want to lose $50,000 worth of electronics . . .
>
>TDT
I'm not overly concerned about it...yet. I figure if they want the stuff
bad enough, they'll smash, cut and destroy the door or window, THEN take
what they want. I'd prefer they just open the door without mangling all my
hard work, take the stuff and leave. A phone call to insurance dude would
be the next step.
No right answer to this one, that's for sure. Locks only keep honest people
honest. The hard core punks will stop at nothing.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Hi All.
Thought I'd add my two cents worth re: tools. Things I've discovered so far:
1. Wish I'd bought a 3X rivet gun to start. The 2X is fine for the 3/32
rivets but is kinda puny for the 1/8 rivets especially the longer ones. Nothing
assures a smiling rivet more than hammering away with a 2X gun trying to set
a long 1/8 rivet. 2. #30 and #40 straight fluted reams leave a beautiful round
hole with a minimum of burs. I've used these from the start, I'll match drill
when necessary with the fractional drill and then go back to the ream for
the final size. 3. Don't waste money on clecoes from e-bay! I did, however, pick
up a nice 4X recoilless rivet gun from e-bay. ( sets those aforementioned
1/8" rivets right now! ) 4. The "C" frame is great for riveting! With a 12" back
rivet set you can do a fine job on spars, bulkheads etc.5. I found a piece
of steel at a scrap yard that's 5" x 20" x 1/2" and it works great as a back
rivet plate, especially on the tailcone. 6. A bandsaw is indispensable. 7. A very
slowly turning cordless drill is best for drilling out a rivet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
I'll call tomorrow and find out. Stay tuned----
Robert
--- Jim Combs wrote:
>
>
> Anyone interested in a group buy of 7 sets?
>
> Wonder what the price break is?
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192
>
>
> ---------- Original Message
> ----------------------------------
> From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 13:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>
> Concerning deburring tools,I just got this
> email
> from Cogsdill:
>
> ROBERT,
>
> YOU MAY ORDER DIRECT OR YOU MAY ORDER THU OUR
> REP
> FOR YOUR AREA WHICH WOULD BE SPECIALTY TOOL
> PHONE
> # 803-328-6326.
>
> THE PRICE ON THE 3/32 PART NUMBER YA-00938 IS
> $46.50 AND THE PRICE ON THE 1/8 PART NUMBER
> YA-01250 IS $37.80. DELIVERY IS STOCK TO 3
> DAYS.
> THIS PRICING IS 1-6 PIECE PRICE.
>
> THANK YOU FOR YOUR INTEREST.
>
> REGARDS,
> LINDA SMITH
>
> These seem pricy but considering the deburring
> I
> have yet to do its probably worth it. Are these
> the sizes I need?
> Robert
> --- David McNeill wrote:
> > McNeill"
> >
> > Try
> >
>
http://www.imts.com/visitor/exdir/showroom/00001408.html
> > I believe the
> > tool and first blade about $50. replacement
> > blades about $8. Blades last a
> > long time but forcing them through a hole can
> > break them so buy an extra.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
> > To:
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 7:18 AM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: tools
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Where can I get the Cogsdill tool? It
> sounds
> > > great.
> > > Robert
> > > --- David McNeill wrote:
> > >> McNeill"
> > >>
> > >> While you are getting tools you should
> > consider
> > >> a Cogsdill deburring tool in
> > >> at least 30 and 40 sizes. In your air
> drill
> > >> these will make short work of
> > >> the hole cleaning and deburring of both
> > sides
> > >> of the hole in one pass.
> > >> ----- Original Message -----
> > >> From: "Mark Grieve" <mark(at)macomb.com>
> > >> To:
> > >> Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 8:04 PM
> > >> Subject: RV10-List: Origin of the cleco?
> > >>
> > >>
> > Grieve
> > >>
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> > Scott Lewis wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> >> Cleco was the original brand and has
> been
> > >> adopted as the generic term,
> > >> >> much like Xerox-ing, despite the fact
> > >> everyone makes copiers.
> > >> >
> > >> > Yes, there are many companies making
> > "clecos"
> > >> but who invented these
> > >> > wonderful temporary skin fasteners? I
> > haven't
> > >> found much information. Any
> > >> > manufacturing historians out there?
> > >> > MG
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> to browse
> > >> Subscriptions page,
> > >> Chat, FAQ,
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > to browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > Chat, FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
>
=== message truncated ===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The Hartwell latches are sometimes used on Lancairs (a dirty word over
here). Some of which have upwards of $70 to 120,000 of avionics onboard.
That's not a typo and in addition to the $100,000 basic kit (sans engine).
With two or three Cheltons and an MX-20 the issue becomes deterrent.
A committed thief will stop at nothing. A novice might try his hand at the
removable components on a whim. Since some avionics shops don't check serial
numbers for the HOT SHEET when they are doing work. Taking away the whim is
the tangential issue. Maybe those $5,000 OA front seats will be the new
pursuit product for 2005.
You might research the Hartwell HTL100s. http://www.enfasco.com/Hartwel2.htm
Your insurance dude might give input on steps to remove the inducement, like
your deductible or that 500,000 terra volt unlocked "heart stopper" door
handle. One plastic canopy/door builder installed a Lincoln/Ford electronic
flush mounted numeric pad.
Always Tangent to the Arc,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Locks
Maybe the automatic flame-thrower alarm system would work . . .
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | tools (cogsdill) |
spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -2.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_2 Message came from 24.225.10-29.x network
Jim, I may be interested in a group buy on the deburring tools. Does anybody have
a price on the sets if more than 6 are purchased??
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
Deburring HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
products.
Plus it would take a lot of side movement in your hand to get the same delta
in angle compared to a short rivet set. My smileys are usually when I'm not
careful setting a rivet while a rib underneath is right at the edge of the
rivet set. I also find that it takes more psi to get the same bang out of a
long set. So if it works better using a long set without increasing psi,
it may just mean that your air pressure is set a little high when using a
short set.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Smiley's
>
> One thing I have noticed.
>
> At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased
some 10" long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated
smileys for me.
>
> I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more
steady and maintain correct angle.
>
> Just an observation.
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
One other thing I use is a draw bead; that is small piece of baffling
material with either a 30 or 40 hole drilled through it. This is used when
two or more sheets of metal are to be riveted but due to tension are not
held tightly together. By placing the draw bead on the end of the rivet and
lightly hitting the rivet with a burst from the gun you will pull the pieces
together and the draw bead can be removed and the rivet finished.
---- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Smiley's
>
> Plus it would take a lot of side movement in your hand to get the same
> delta
> in angle compared to a short rivet set. My smileys are usually when I'm
> not
> careful setting a rivet while a rib underneath is right at the edge of the
> rivet set. I also find that it takes more psi to get the same bang out of
> a
> long set. So if it works better using a long set without increasing psi,
> it may just mean that your air pressure is set a little high when using a
> short set.
> Anh
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 4:37 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Smiley's
>
>
>>
>> One thing I have noticed.
>>
>> At one point, I needed a long set for the universal rivets and purchased
> some 10" long rivet sets. Using the long rivet set has totally eliminated
> smileys for me.
>>
>> I don't know why, but it seems that I am able to hold the rivet gun more
> steady and maintain correct angle.
>>
>> Just an observation.
>>
>> Jim Combs
>> #40192
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>>
>
> ---
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools (cogsdill) |
Consider me interested too. I'd possibly get a 3/32" and maybe
even a 1/8"....even though I'm done thru my wings.
Plus a spare blade or 2 for the 3/32".
Tim #40170
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Jim, I may be interested in a group buy on the deburring tools. Does
> anybody have a price on the sets if more than 6 are purchased??
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
> Deburring HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools (cogsdill) |
Since Cogsdill is located not too far from me I
will get a price today on the two sizes plus a
spare blade for each. I can then send them out
via Priority Mail. I will let you know, getting
ready to make the call now.
Robert
--- Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> Consider me interested too. I'd possibly get a
> 3/32" and maybe
> even a 1/8"....even though I'm done thru my
> wings.
> Plus a spare blade or 2 for the 3/32".
>
> Tim #40170
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> > Jim, I may be interested in a group buy on
> the deburring tools. Does
> > anybody have a price on the sets if more than
> 6 are purchased??
> >
> > Bill Britton
> > RV-10 Emp #40137
> > Deburring HS
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools (cogsdill) |
OK, here is the deal. The savings are not
overwhelming but this place is only about 30
minutes from here and I do not mind picking them
up and sending them out. We know the price for
1-6 pieces: 46.50 and 38.50 plus 8.60 for spare
blades. The discount is as follows: 7-12 pieces;
3%. Over 12 pieces 5%. Everyone interested just
let me know at rpvinroot(at)yahoo.com
Robert
--- retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
> Since Cogsdill is located not too far from me I
> will get a price today on the two sizes plus a
> spare blade for each. I can then send them out
> via Priority Mail. I will let you know, getting
> ready to make the call now.
> Robert
> --- Tim Olson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Consider me interested too. I'd possibly get
> a
> > 3/32" and maybe
> > even a 1/8"....even though I'm done thru my
> > wings.
> > Plus a spare blade or 2 for the 3/32".
> >
> > Tim #40170
> >
> > Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> > > Jim, I may be interested in a group buy on
> > the deburring tools. Does
> > > anybody have a price on the sets if more
> than
> > 6 are purchased??
> > >
> > > Bill Britton
> > > RV-10 Emp #40137
> > > Deburring HS
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > to browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > Chat, FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools (cogsdill) |
A slight correction, the price of the smaller is
37.50.
--- retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>
> OK, here is the deal. The savings are not
> overwhelming but this place is only about 30
> minutes from here and I do not mind picking
> them
> up and sending them out. We know the price for
> 1-6 pieces: 46.50 and 38.50 plus 8.60 for spare
> blades. The discount is as follows: 7-12
> pieces;
> 3%. Over 12 pieces 5%. Everyone interested just
> let me know at rpvinroot(at)yahoo.com
> Robert
> --- retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Since Cogsdill is located not too far from me
> I
> > will get a price today on the two sizes plus
> a
> > spare blade for each. I can then send them
> out
> > via Priority Mail. I will let you know,
> getting
> > ready to make the call now.
> > Robert
> > --- Tim Olson wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Consider me interested too. I'd possibly
> get
> > a
> > > 3/32" and maybe
> > > even a 1/8"....even though I'm done thru my
> > > wings.
> > > Plus a spare blade or 2 for the 3/32".
> > >
> > > Tim #40170
> > >
> > > Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> > > > Jim, I may be interested in a group buy
> on
> > > the deburring tools. Does
> > > > anybody have a price on the sets if more
> > than
> > > 6 are purchased??
> > > >
> > > > Bill Britton
> > > > RV-10 Emp #40137
> > > > Deburring HS
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > to browse
> > > Subscriptions page,
> > > Chat, FAQ,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > to browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > Chat, FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brandon Yost" <bryostdc(at)hotmail.com> |
For those of you who are working on QB kits or have seen them, what's your
take on the quality of the construction? Are there bad rivets, dings in the
skin, skins that don't fit flush, etc? I'm interested in the QB version
simply because of the time savings, but only if the build quality is good.
I'm also curious about the thickness of the skins Vans uses, and how they
will stand up to the elements. I'm not planning on leaving my plane outside
unless I can't find a hangar while traveling, but if I have to and bad
weather hits, what are the chances it'll pull through unharmed? I only ask
because I have a buddy who built a plans-built plane (can't for the life of
me remember the name) that evidentally used very light aluminum skins. He
got caught in hail (nothing major) and his plane came out looking like it
had been beat to within an inch of its life by a five year old with a
hammer. The plane next to his (a 172) looked like it hadn't been touched.
BRY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Another sneak attack on the seats.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
QB kits are built in the Phillipines. Its my
understanding that they use well qualified people
that used to work for the USAF at Clark AFB in
the refurbishment program. Of course Clark no
longer exists but the sheet metal workers are
still there. Van gets the QB sections back
(Fuselage and wings) and does a thorough
inspection before shipping them out to the
customer. Even if the customer is in the
Phillipines he still can't get the QB until it
has been inspected by Van. The skin is .025 on
all but the control serfaces where it is .016.
I've never heard of a problem such as you
described in the hail storm.
Robert
--- Brandon Yost wrote:
>
>
> For those of you who are working on QB kits or
> have seen them, what's your
> take on the quality of the construction? Are
> there bad rivets, dings in the
> skin, skins that don't fit flush, etc? I'm
> interested in the QB version
> simply because of the time savings, but only if
> the build quality is good.
>
> I'm also curious about the thickness of the
> skins Vans uses, and how they
> will stand up to the elements. I'm not
> planning on leaving my plane outside
> unless I can't find a hangar while traveling,
> but if I have to and bad
> weather hits, what are the chances it'll pull
> through unharmed? I only ask
> because I have a buddy who built a plans-built
> plane (can't for the life of
> me remember the name) that evidentally used
> very light aluminum skins. He
> got caught in hail (nothing major) and his
> plane came out looking like it
> had been beat to within an inch of its life by
> a five year old with a
> hammer. The plane next to his (a 172) looked
> like it hadn't been touched.
>
> BRY
>
>
> Download today - it's FREE!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Tim has posted some additional photos of my now installed panel. They can be found at www.myrv10.com. Thanks again Tim. I will be at Sun n Fun from Wed - Monday and will be at the AeroCrafters booth from 11:00 till 4:00 each day. Please come buy and say hello. I would also like to have dinner or breakfast with anyone interested. Let me know. Randy 40006. The punch list is very short.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
I believe the inboard wing skins are 0.032in
Niko
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Quality
QB kits are built in the Phillipines. Its my
understanding that they use well qualified people
that used to work for the USAF at Clark AFB in
the refurbishment program. Of course Clark no
longer exists but the sheet metal workers are
still there. Van gets the QB sections back
(Fuselage and wings) and does a thorough
inspection before shipping them out to the
customer. Even if the customer is in the
Phillipines he still can't get the QB until it
has been inspected by Van. The skin is .025 on
all but the control serfaces where it is .016.
I've never heard of a problem such as you
described in the hail storm.
Robert
--- Brandon Yost wrote:
>
>
> For those of you who are working on QB kits or
> have seen them, what's your
> take on the quality of the construction? Are
> there bad rivets, dings in the
> skin, skins that don't fit flush, etc? I'm
> interested in the QB version
> simply because of the time savings, but only if
> the build quality is good.
>
> I'm also curious about the thickness of the
> skins Vans uses, and how they
> will stand up to the elements. I'm not
> planning on leaving my plane outside
> unless I can't find a hangar while traveling,
> but if I have to and bad
> weather hits, what are the chances it'll pull
> through unharmed? I only ask
> because I have a buddy who built a plans-built
> plane (can't for the life of
> me remember the name) that evidentally used
> very light aluminum skins. He
> got caught in hail (nothing major) and his
> plane came out looking like it
> had been beat to within an inch of its life by
> a five year old with a
> hammer. The plane next to his (a 172) looked
> like it hadn't been touched.
>
> BRY
>
>
> Download today - it's FREE!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I think that most, if not all, of the forward fuselage skins are also .032.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB Quality
I believe the inboard wing skins are 0.032in
Niko
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Quality
QB kits are built in the Phillipines. Its my
understanding that they use well qualified people
that used to work for the USAF at Clark AFB in
the refurbishment program. Of course Clark no
longer exists but the sheet metal workers are
still there. Van gets the QB sections back
(Fuselage and wings) and does a thorough
inspection before shipping them out to the
customer. Even if the customer is in the
Phillipines he still can't get the QB until it
has been inspected by Van. The skin is .025 on
all but the control serfaces where it is .016.
I've never heard of a problem such as you
described in the hail storm.
Robert
--- Brandon Yost wrote:
>
>
> For those of you who are working on QB kits or
> have seen them, what's your
> take on the quality of the construction? Are
> there bad rivets, dings in the
> skin, skins that don't fit flush, etc? I'm
> interested in the QB version
> simply because of the time savings, but only if
> the build quality is good.
>
> I'm also curious about the thickness of the
> skins Vans uses, and how they
> will stand up to the elements. I'm not
> planning on leaving my plane outside
> unless I can't find a hangar while traveling,
> but if I have to and bad
> weather hits, what are the chances it'll pull
> through unharmed? I only ask
> because I have a buddy who built a plans-built
> plane (can't for the life of
> me remember the name) that evidentally used
> very light aluminum skins. He
> got caught in hail (nothing major) and his
> plane came out looking like it
> had been beat to within an inch of its life by
> a five year old with a
> hammer. The plane next to his (a 172) looked
> like it hadn't been touched.
>
> BRY
>
>
> Download today - it's FREE!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
If you use silpruf, you just do it like the car guys, run a very thin steel wire
at one point through the silpruf bead, use both ends and run it around and you
cut the window out, then clean all and start new.
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 1:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Windshield
Is it just me or is the windshield permanent? I guess we just hope we don't
get any scratches on it. That would be a TON of work to replace in the future.
We have replaced windows in our 172 an PA-14. What happens when we get to
that point on the -10?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <fehdxl(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry if I'm late with this info as I get the digest version.
I just ordered the 3/32" & 1/8" Buraway direct from Cogsdill in SC
(803-438-4000) plus an extra blade for each. Total was $100.50 + $5 handling
+ actual UPS shipping. I told her I was going to use it for aluminum and she
said, "oh so you'll want the lighter spring". Rick, I wonder what spring was
in the one you were using? If it was the normal spring, maybe that would
account for some of the 'aggressiveness' you felt it had on aluminum vice
steel. Just a thought?
-Jim
o\o
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | surface prep / MEK protection |
Hi all,
Couple of quick questions on the whole surface prep thing ;)
1) since alclad is a thin aluminum coating on the aluminum alloy,
doesnt hitting it with scotchbrite remove some or all of that coating? Is
it a non-issue to remove the alclad if one is priming immediately
afterwards?
2) Are there any issues associated with putting MEK in a plastic spray
bottle to dispense it? Id like to be able to spritz a little on a sheet or
part then wipe it down with the rag, rather than using a soaked rag or open
container of it all the time. (I guess my main concern is whether or not MEK
is a solvent for plastic ;) I would be returning the MEK to the metal can
once Im done with the spray bottle if it isnt eating the plastic
3) I bought a 3M NIOSH respirator and it seems to fit pretty well
except for a small spot on the side of the bridge of my nose where it leaks
significantly I think I must have a dent there or something I did a little
cleaning of the practice kit just for fun, and I could occasionally get a
decent whiff of the MEK even though I was outside doing it (my garage has a
number of pilot lights in it, so I figured I should go outside ;) Does
anyone have any ideas on how to fix a spot like that where the mask isnt
sealing properly? (ok, plastic surgery is not an option ;) Is the
occasional whiff while doing this outside even worth worrying about?
Thanks,
James
Practice Kit
Waiting for the field trip to vans to order the kit ;)
one thru my
>>>>wings.
>>>>Plus a spare blade or 2 for the 3/32".
>>>>
>>>>Tim #40170
>>>>
>>>>Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Jim, I may be interested in a group buy
>>
>>on
>>
>>>>the deburring tools. Does
>>>>
>>>>>anybody have a price on the sets if more
>>>
>>>than
>>>
>>>>6 are purchased??
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Bill Britton
>>>>>RV-10 Emp #40137
>>>>>Deburring HS
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>to browse
>>>>Subscriptions page,
>>>>Chat, FAQ,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>to browse
>>>Subscriptions page,
>>>Chat, FAQ,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>to browse
>>Subscriptions page,
>>Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tools (cogsdill) |
Since you're in state, are they going to have to charge you
tax? If so, that would more than eat up the savings
for someone ordering from most states.
Tim
retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
> A slight correction, the price of the smaller is
> 37.50.
> --- retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>OK, here is the deal. The savings are not
>>overwhelming but this place is only about 30
>>minutes from here and I do not mind picking
>>them
>>up and sending them out. We know the price for
>>1-6 pieces: 46.50 and 38.50 plus 8.60 for spare
>>blades. The discount is as follows: 7-12
>>pieces;
>>3%. Over 12 pieces 5%. Everyone interested just
>>let me know at rpvinroot(at)yahoo.com
>>Robert
>>--- retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Since Cogsdill is located not too far from me
>>
>>I
>>
>>>will get a price today on the two sizes plus
>>
>>a
>>
>>>spare blade for each. I can then send them
>>
>>out
>>
>>>via Priority Mail. I will let you know,
>>
>>getting
>>
>>>ready to make the call now.
>>>Robert
>>>--- Tim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Consider me interested too. I'd possibly
>>
>>get
>>
>>>a
>>>
>>>>3/32" and maybe
>>>>even a 1/8"....even though I'm done thru my
>>>>wings.
>>>>Plus a spare blade or 2 for the 3/32".
>>>>
>>>>Tim #40170
>>>>
>>>>Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Jim, I may be interested in a group buy
>>
>>on
>>
>>>>the deburring tools. Does
>>>>
>>>>>anybody have a price on the sets if more
>>>
>>>than
>>>
>>>>6 are purchased??
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Bill Britton
>>>>>RV-10 Emp #40137
>>>>>Deburring HS
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>to browse
>>>>Subscriptions page,
>>>>Chat, FAQ,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>to browse
>>>Subscriptions page,
>>>Chat, FAQ,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>to browse
>>Subscriptions page,
>>Chat, FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: surface prep / MEK protection |
Oh my gosh!! JAMES JAMES JAMES....ever heard of the shot fired in anger????
I'll only comment on your mask issue.....respirators require a good seal to function
properly. Do a fit test, hold your hands over the filters and suck in, if
you can get air, it ain't working. Cheap ones don't fit well...good ones do,
I do workplace safety surveys for the insurance biz, I'll soon be moving to
the Feds (OSHA) shortly......invest in a good mask, be aware that most masks will
not protect you from some (Sherwin Williams) two part epoxy primers. Spray
all flammable liquids out of the area of pilot lights. DO NOT spray MEK....volatile,
explosive mix, I put cut up squares of scott (blue) towels in Glad "trade
name brand" toss away bowl filled with MEK for handy wipes, keep the lid on,
it is one of the only plasitics I have seen that MEK won't attack, be advised
that although they resemble baby bottom wipes, they tend to burn infant skin
so stick with Johnson & Johnson for the baby's bottom...FWIW it will eat the
handle of your Avery deburring tool. Try soaking your mask in boiling water (note:
remove filter and straps) to soften the rubber for a few seconds and then
mold the rubber to the shape or remove the dent. If I recall MEK has a very
short PEL, or exposure time limit, the best aluminum cleaner and prep I have found
is Alumaprep....it works great, is water soluble, save the MEK for the tanks,
not much of a choice there, gotta use it. The MEK will allow you to transfer
Proseal from the metal or tools to the paper towel...nothing dissolves Proseal...just
moves it from one substance to the other. I'll leave the primer vs.
Alcad to the others....I only primed mating surfaces...oops....started to tell
my method...not gonna do it!!! ;)
If you don't think MEK is bad, get the MSDS sheet and read it over...if you get
it on your skin, get it wshed off, a sign of over exposure is you can "taste"
it....the heck with that....is bad enough to smell it!!
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
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as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SNF List - Update |
Tim,
No problem with delivery while your in Florida...wish I could make it. Won't the
lollipop guild be able to unload the crate? Have your munchkins no contacts
with the guild?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
What's ironic is I stopped using mine cuz it wasn't taking ENOUGH of the
burr off... May have to look at it again. Seem to remember something
about a way to adjust the tension on the blade also. Anyone?
John
#40208 Wings
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cogsdill
Uhhh...ummmmm......lighter spring? You mean there's a spring in there?
;)
May be why I thought it worked a little to well on aluminum and good on
steel huh?
Rick S.
40185
Wings
to
and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: surface prep / MEK protection |
Rick,
Where is a good place to get the MSDS sheets (Online?)
I very much would like to read it.
Thanks, Jim C
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 17:42:35 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Oh my gosh!! JAMES JAMES JAMES....ever heard of the shot fired in anger????
I'll only comment on your mask issue.....respirators require a good seal to function
properly. Do a fit test, hold your hands over the filters and suck in, if
you can get air, it ain't working. Cheap ones don't fit well...good ones do,
I do workplace safety surveys for the insurance biz, I'll soon be moving to
the Feds (OSHA) shortly......invest in a good mask, be aware that most masks will
not protect you from some (Sherwin Williams) two part epoxy primers. Spray
all flammable liquids out of the area of pilot lights. DO NOT spray MEK....volatile,
explosive mix, I put cut up squares of scott (blue) towels in Glad "trade
name brand" toss away bowl filled with MEK for handy wipes, keep the lid on,
it is one of the only plasitics I have seen that MEK won't attack, be advised
that although they resemble baby bottom wipes, they tend to burn infant skin
so stick with Johnson & Johnson for the baby's bottom...FWIW it will eat the
handle of your Avery deburring tool. Try soaking yo!
ur mask in boiling water (note: remove filter and straps) to soften the rubber
for a few seconds and then mold the rubber to the shape or remove the dent. If
I recall MEK has a very short PEL, or exposure time limit, the best aluminum
cleaner and prep I have found is Alumaprep....it works great, is water soluble,
save the MEK for the tanks, not much of a choice there, gotta use it. The MEK
will allow you to transfer Proseal from the metal or tools to the paper towel...nothing
dissolves Proseal...just moves it from one substance to the other.
I'll leave the primer vs. Alcad to the others....I only primed mating surfaces...oops....started
to tell my method...not gonna do it!!! ;)
If you don't think MEK is bad, get the MSDS sheet and read it over...if you get
it on your skin, get it wshed off, a sign of over exposure is you can "taste"
it....the heck with that....is bad enough to smell it!!
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | MEK protection - I'm lost ;) |
ok, now I am really confused... about 50% of the searching I have done says
that Latex gloves are extremely effective for protection against MEK. The
other 50% say that latex is either soluble or extremely permeable to MEK.
Others say that Nitrile gloves are good, while even others say Nitrile and
MEK is a bad combo... The different sites I have been looking at are glove
manufacturers, university safety policies, etc, etc... and of course the
MSDS doesn't really say WHAT materials to use for gloves that I could
find... Does anyone have a definitive source on what to use? It looks like
alumiprep is not quite as bad as MEK, but it isn't exactly water either ;)
is there something that is good for both? Or is this one of those topics
that nobody really has a good answer for?
Thanks,
james
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | surface prep / MEK protection |
http://msds.ehs.cornell.edu/msdssrch.asp
Just put MEK in the first search box and you should find quite a few of them
;)
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: surface prep / MEK protection
Rick,
Where is a good place to get the MSDS sheets (Online?)
I very much would like to read it.
Thanks, Jim C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | MEK protection - I'm lost ;) |
The thing here is just to stay the heck away from MEK. It's bad stuff all
the way around. Acetone is still nasty, but not nearly as bad for you as
MEK. I've built more than one of these RV's and have yet to find a
legitimate reason to use MEK over other available subsitutes such as Acetone
or even better use plain old alchohol (not the liquor store stuff). It
shouldn't be understated how nasty MEK is for you...it will cause all kinds
of health problems, the least of your worries is whether or not it dissolves
your gloves!!
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: MEK protection - I'm lost ;)
ok, now I am really confused... about 50% of the searching I have done says
that Latex gloves are extremely effective for protection against MEK. The
other 50% say that latex is either soluble or extremely permeable to MEK.
Others say that Nitrile gloves are good, while even others say Nitrile and
MEK is a bad combo... The different sites I have been looking at are glove
manufacturers, university safety policies, etc, etc... and of course the
MSDS doesn't really say WHAT materials to use for gloves that I could
find... Does anyone have a definitive source on what to use? It looks like
alumiprep is not quite as bad as MEK, but it isn't exactly water either ;)
is there something that is good for both? Or is this one of those topics
that nobody really has a good answer for?
Thanks,
james
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -2.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
1.60 NO_DNS_FOR_FROM DNS: Envelope sender has no MX or A DNS records
I have been using a Prekote/ Sherwin Williams 2-part epoxy primer system on my
RV-10 thus far. I'm thinking of changing primers to one of the easier rattle
can methods (I think SW and Napa both have self-etching rattle can primers).
My question is if I change primers in the middle of the project, how will these
new primers react to the original 2-part epoxy primer already applied to some
parts (especially where the 2 will come into direct contact)??? For example,
the HS spars are done with the 2-part epoxy primer. The ribs will be done with
the new rattle can primer. Any compatibility problems here??
Anybody got any other ideas??? The 2-part system works but it just takes too much
prep and cleanup time.
I know that water based primers have been mentioned. Any thoughts/ideas there???
In your opinion, what is the best/easiest priming method for the most reasonable
cost???
I don't want to start a priming war here, just getting some ideas.
TIA,
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp
Priming HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
I just talked to Kathleen and Cogsdill and she said that they use a different blade
for deburring aluminum. Its what they are calling a DAZ blade instead of
a DAT blade (I think). You need to mention that you are deburring aluminum when
placing your order.
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I think I will be sticking with the Alumiprep/Alodine + AKZO for now. I am
happy with the results. It is a whole day or two work to do it each time,
but in the end the airplane will be happy.
Rattle can stuff just don't sound right in an airplane. Except in some small
areas. The whole idea of us building is to build it better than a Cessna.
:-)
Mani Ravee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MEK protection - I'm lost ;) |
James,
Nitrile gloves work but the MEK tends to make them wear out/weaken, I wear two
sets, when the outside breaks put on another pair. I found latex don't last as
long in MEK as the Nitrile.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
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as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Mani Ravee ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Mani Ravee
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: Touch up spray kit
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/maniravee@sbcglobal.net.04.07.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: David McNeill
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: O540 specs
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dlm34077@cox.net.04.07.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
Hi all,
I'm in the market for an air compressor to run
my tools. I need to find something that is as
quiet as possible, since my workshop is part of the
house.
Any suggestions?
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
I don't think you'll have an easy time finding a truly quiet one,
but here's some advice. Whatever you do, don't go oilless if you
want longevity and/or quietness. If you want as quiet as possible,
buy a model with a cast iron head and cylinder. They probably will
last longer than many too.
When I started building, I shopped long and hard and I purchased a
very nice one, for not any more than many cheaper ones run.
It's the Campbell Hausfeld VT6271, which is a 26 gal. twin cylinder cast
iron (240V only -- 15A) oil lube that puts out 10.3@90PSI (11.8@40PSI).
I got it for only $349 directly from Campbell-Hausfeld. Shipping was
reasonable too. This compressor is really just the motor/pump from
their vertical 60gal. model placed on the 26gal. horizontal
tank. It works great for me so far and is night-and-day quieter than
a friends oil-free compressor. I chose this model for one big reason.
You really want over 10CFM if possible for doing your painting, and
running some of the tools like die grinders and even the drill to
some extent. If you had the space, you're probably better off with
the 60 gallon upright, but my smaller horizontal fits under my
bench. Don't be worried about pulling in a 240V outlet...it's
easy for anyone who can build a plane. Also, be careful while
shopping. Many companies over-state their real horsepower rating.
you really want to find out how many CFM @ 90psi it can do.
Anything under about 5 or 7 is just too small. Anything over 14
or so would be more than most people would need for their project.
You have to call them and ask for that price (it's cheaper than their
website listing). Their number is 1-888-CHPOWER.
Tim Olson #40170
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm in the market for an air compressor to run
> my tools. I need to find something that is as
> quiet as possible, since my workshop is part of the
> house.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> -Dj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David & Miriam Talley <rv10(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
A few years ago (Hey, now that I think about it it's about 10 or so...) I
asked a fellow Stinson restorer what compressor to get.
He suggested a "PUMA".
I "special ordered" the one I needed from (back then) from a new company:
Harbor Freight. The thing was shipped free to me. I ordered a 30 gallon
baby on wheels. It is two cylinder 120/240 volt operation! All you do is
rewire it with a new cord and plug head. (I still have mine on 110.) It's
a horizontal model with wheels on one end for maneuvering around the shop.
Oh, did I tell you it is QUITE!!! As in even to day, folks walk into the
hangar and if the thing kicks off, they tell me, "Geez, that thing is
quite". Folks, I mean like every time a newbie hears it they are amazed.
It puts out a ton of air. All I ever have done is drain it. I probably
should change the oil in it.
We're expanding our shop out at 8T8 outside of San Antonio. A fellow pilot
tracked down a very used, yet restored, Worthington compressor. I don't
have all the specs, but it's got what we think is a 200 gallon tank. The
output pipe on it is at least a 2 inch galvanized thing. I've head it run
for a minute or so and it, too, is quite. It's a two cylinder
model. Again, from inside a building and fully restored a couple of years
ago so it looks and operates greatly. Our price: $1,500. The wife still
needs to write the check. :-) It takes a folklift to move it (the friend
bought one also) so when the hangar is dried in, we'll move it out to the
airport.
You can't have enough air!
Take care and good luck1
David Talley
HEADING TO SNF tomorrow!
At 10:11 PM 4/7/2005, you wrote:
>
>Hi all,
> I'm in the market for an air compressor to run
>my tools. I need to find something that is as
>quiet as possible, since my workshop is part of the
>house.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>-Dj
>
>--
>Dj Merrill
>deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
>
>"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
products.
I picked up my twin cyl cast iron 120V at a flea market years ago when I
didn't know what to do with it. Had to replace the gaskets and bought a few
fittings. It is as quiet as your refridgerator (figuratively speaking).
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: air compressor
>
> I don't think you'll have an easy time finding a truly quiet one,
> but here's some advice. Whatever you do, don't go oilless if you
> want longevity and/or quietness. If you want as quiet as possible,
> buy a model with a cast iron head and cylinder. They probably will
> last longer than many too.
>
> When I started building, I shopped long and hard and I purchased a
> very nice one, for not any more than many cheaper ones run.
> It's the Campbell Hausfeld VT6271, which is a 26 gal. twin cylinder cast
> iron (240V only -- 15A) oil lube that puts out 10.3@90PSI (11.8@40PSI).
> I got it for only $349 directly from Campbell-Hausfeld. Shipping was
> reasonable too. This compressor is really just the motor/pump from
> their vertical 60gal. model placed on the 26gal. horizontal
> tank. It works great for me so far and is night-and-day quieter than
> a friends oil-free compressor. I chose this model for one big reason.
> You really want over 10CFM if possible for doing your painting, and
> running some of the tools like die grinders and even the drill to
> some extent. If you had the space, you're probably better off with
> the 60 gallon upright, but my smaller horizontal fits under my
> bench. Don't be worried about pulling in a 240V outlet...it's
> easy for anyone who can build a plane. Also, be careful while
> shopping. Many companies over-state their real horsepower rating.
> you really want to find out how many CFM @ 90psi it can do.
> Anything under about 5 or 7 is just too small. Anything over 14
> or so would be more than most people would need for their project.
>
> You have to call them and ask for that price (it's cheaper than their
> website listing). Their number is 1-888-CHPOWER.
>
> Tim Olson #40170
>
>
> Dj Merrill wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I'm in the market for an air compressor to run
> > my tools. I need to find something that is as
> > quiet as possible, since my workshop is part of the
> > house.
> >
> > Any suggestions?
> >
> > -Dj
> >
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
David & Miriam Talley wrote:
>
> A few years ago (Hey, now that I think about it it's about 10 or so...)
> I asked a fellow Stinson restorer what compressor to get.
>
> He suggested a "PUMA".
>
> I "special ordered" the one I needed from (back then) from a new
> company: Harbor Freight. The thing was shipped free to me. I ordered a
> 30 gallon baby on wheels. It is two cylinder 120/240 volt operation!
> All you do is rewire it with a new cord and plug head. (I still have
> mine on 110.) It's a horizontal model with wheels on one end for
> maneuvering around the shop.
>
Hi David,
Do you happen to have the model number? I found this one
at Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34884
but it appears to be 230v only...
Thanks!
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Don't be worried about pulling in a 240V outlet...it's
> easy for anyone who can build a plane. Also, be careful while
Hi Tim,
Unfortunately I don't own the house I am currently
living in, so this really isn't an option for me.
However, I may be able to run an extension cord from
where the dryer plugs in (in the next room), and just
swap the plugs back and forth.
It would be much easier to go with 120v, though,
if I can find something suitable.
I found your unit at Harbor Freight for $430.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34850
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
I have a 1/2 HP 1 CFM @ 90 PSI compressor on a 10 Gallon tank. Works just fine
for the air tools, won't work for paint.
One thing I did do was to put a muffler on the "intake". Thats where most of the
noise is. Epoxied a coffee can to the intake, inserted some foam filers from
a lawn mower and now its quiet.
Jim Combs
#40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500 (formerly ACS-2002)
and the sensor that they provided was different than the bracket supplied in
the kit was designed to take. Very easy to fix before riveting the various fuselage
ribs, skins, etc. in place. Unfortunately, difficult to change the bracket
when you get to the chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is simply
that the holes aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the unit
supplied later today or over the weekend.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Mine fit fine Bob. I put it in 9 months ago. When did they change? Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500 (formerly ACS-2002)
and the sensor that they provided was different than the bracket supplied in
the kit was designed to take. Very easy to fix before riveting the various fuselage
ribs, skins, etc. in place. Unfortunately, difficult to change the bracket
when you get to the chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is simply
that the holes aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the unit
supplied later today or over the weekend.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I just talked to AFS about this. They apparently changed from the Floscan to the
EI produced unit because of cost.
Question: since these units are frequently just attached to the fuel line and nothing
else, does anybody see an issue with just using a single mounting bolt?
Bob #40105
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
Randy,
Not sure when they changed - maybe when they went from the ACS-2002 to AF-2500?
I just looked at my transducer and it's an Electronics Internation FT-60 (Red
Cube). Instead of having the mounting holes on diagonal corners, it has them
on a single side spaced 1 3/8" center to center which is a little further apart
than the Van's supplied bracket holes. I just checked on the AFS website
and they show this unit in the latest manual on page 40:
http://advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorSupport/AF-2500%20System%20Manual%20V3.0.pdf
I snapped a picture of it but the list will strips off attachments.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 03:46 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Cc:
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
Mine fit fine Bob. I put it in 9 months ago. When did they change? Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:19 PM
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500 (formerly
ACS-2002)
and the sensor that they provided was different than the bracket supplied in
the kit was designed to take. Very easy to fix before riveting the various
fuselage ribs, skins, etc. in place. Unfortunately, difficult to change the bracket
when you get to the chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is simply
that the holes aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the
unit supplied later today or over the weekend.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
I would think that would be fine. Except for vibration, you could probably get
away with an installation that wasn't bolted down at all . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
I just talked to AFS about this. They apparently changed from the Floscan to the
EI produced unit because of cost.
Question: since these units are frequently just attached to the fuel line and nothing
else, does anybody see an issue with just using a single mounting bolt?
Bob #40105
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
Randy,
Not sure when they changed - maybe when they went from the ACS-2002 to AF-2500?
I just looked at my transducer and it's an Electronics Internation FT-60 (Red
Cube). Instead of having the mounting holes on diagonal corners, it has them
on a single side spaced 1 3/8" center to center which is a little further apart
than the Van's supplied bracket holes. I just checked on the AFS website
and they show this unit in the latest manual on page 40:
http://advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorSupport/AF-2500%20System%20Manual%20V3.0.pdf
I snapped a picture of it but the list will strips off attachments.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 03:46 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Cc:
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
Mine fit fine Bob. I put it in 9 months ago. When did they change? Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:19 PM
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500 (formerly
ACS-2002)
and the sensor that they provided was different than the bracket supplied in
the kit was designed to take. Very easy to fix before riveting the various
fuselage ribs, skins, etc. in place. Unfortunately, difficult to change the bracket
when you get to the chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is simply
that the holes aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the
unit supplied later today or over the weekend.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer |
The EI transducer has the following benefits:
1. Better resolution
2. Less pressure drop
3. Does not require fire shielding.
4. Less likely that debris will plug it.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer |
Transducer location.
For a fuel injected engine you really want to put it in the line from the
servo to the distribution block for the best accuracy.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems (packing for Sun-N-Fun)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Um9iLA0KIA0KVGhhbmtzIGZvciB0aGUgaW5mbyAtIGFzIEkgZXhwbGFpbmVkIHRvIEtlbiBvbiB0
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YWNraW5nIGZvciBTdW4tTi1GdW4pDQoNCg==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
<4256A085.80601(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Yeah, I found it on Harbor Freight at the time too, but I got a
better price in the end from CH direct....they don't advertize
it but even with shipping it was less. I'm not sure if it's
always that way. The sales guy also threw in a die grinder
for free because I was nice to him.....just ask if they can
throw in a small tool or two and I bet they will.
Tim
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Don't be worried about pulling in a 240V outlet...it's
>> easy for anyone who can build a plane. Also, be careful while
>
>
> Hi Tim,
> Unfortunately I don't own the house I am currently
> living in, so this really isn't an option for me.
> However, I may be able to run an extension cord from
> where the dryer plugs in (in the next room), and just
> swap the plugs back and forth.
>
> It would be much easier to go with 120v, though,
> if I can find something suitable.
>
> I found your unit at Harbor Freight for $430.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34850
>
> -Dj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Flow Transducer |
Hey Bob,
Just FYI, Matt Dralle actually did a change to the list when we hopped
over here. You can now attach an image if you want. Try sending a
.jpg to the list....I think it will go.
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Randy,
>
> Not sure when they changed - maybe when they went from the ACS-2002 to AF-2500?
I just looked at my transducer and it's an Electronics Internation FT-60 (Red
Cube). Instead of having the mounting holes on diagonal corners, it has them
on a single side spaced 1 3/8" center to center which is a little further
apart than the Van's supplied bracket holes. I just checked on the AFS website
and they show this unit in the latest manual on page 40:
> http://advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorSupport/AF-2500%20System%20Manual%20V3.0.pdf
>
> I snapped a picture of it but the list will strips off attachments.
>
> Bob
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 03:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>
>
>
>
> Mine fit fine Bob. I put it in 9 months ago. When did they change?
Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
> (US SSA)
> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:19 PM
> To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>
>
>
> Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500 (formerly
ACS-2002)
and the sensor that they provided was different than the bracket supplied
in the kit was designed to take. Very easy to fix before riveting the various
fuselage ribs, skins, etc. in place. Unfortunately, difficult to change the
bracket when you get to the chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is
simply that the holes aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the
unit supplied later today or over the weekend.
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Testing photos |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
(ax)
| Subject: | Re: RE: Testing photos |
Now that's downright pretty!!! But it puts the yeller bullseye right on
the cockpit!!
HOWEVER, if we want to keep Matt on our side, if it's not RV-10 (or
whatever) related or worth saving for later, please add the 'do not
archive' statement to your emails. Pictures will surely fill up the
server rapidly.
No, I'm not the list cop .... it's just a suggestion.
Linn ..... it's already there, above .... and it does work!
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Testing photos |
I don't think the attachments are archived.
Larry
linn walters wrote:
>
> Now that's downright pretty!!! But it puts the yeller bullseye right
> on the cockpit!!
>
> HOWEVER, if we want to keep Matt on our side, if it's not RV-10 (or
> whatever) related or worth saving for later, please add the 'do not
> archive' statement to your emails. Pictures will surely fill up the
> server rapidly.
> No, I'm not the list cop .... it's just a suggestion.
> Linn ..... it's already there, above .... and it does work!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just finishing the inventory of the QB fuselage, finish kit and FF kit.
Van's does a good job to ensure everything is there. For others who worked
the QB fuselage: Is there a specific section of the plans that are complete
and specific sections left undone or did you just drill out the temporary
rivets and start checking from the beginning of the slow build plans? Or are
there specific QB plans?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
> Ok, let's give it a try. First picture is of a FloScan 231 - you can see
> how the mounting holes are diagonally opposed relative to the input &
> output ports. Second picture is the EI FT-60 which has a larger spacing
> between mounting holes and they're both on the same side relative to the
> input & output ports.
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
> Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 07:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>
>
> Hey Bob,
>
> Just FYI, Matt Dralle actually did a change to the list when we hopped
> over here. You can now attach an image if you want. Try sending a
> .jpg to the list....I think it will go.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > Randy,
> >
> > Not sure when they changed - maybe when they went from the ACS-2002 to
> > AF-2500? I just looked at my transducer and it's an Electronics
> > Internation FT-60 (Red Cube). Instead of having the mounting holes on
> > diagonal corners, it has them on a single side spaced 1 3/8" center to
> > center which is a little further apart than the Van's supplied bracket
> > holes. I just checked on the AFS website and they show this unit in the
> > latest manual on page 40:
>
> > http://advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorSupport/AF-2500%20System%20Manual%20V3.0.pdf
> >
> > I snapped a picture of it but the list will strips off attachments.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy
> > DeBauw
> > Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 03:46 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Cc:
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Mine fit fine Bob. I put it in 9 months ago. When did they
> > change? Randy
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey,
> > Bob
> > (US SSA)
> > Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:19 PM
> > To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500
> > (formerly ACS-2002) and the sensor that they provided was different than
> > the bracket supplied in the kit was designed to take. Very easy to fix
> > before riveting the various fuselage ribs, skins, etc. in place.
> > Unfortunately, difficult to change the bracket when you get to the
> > chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is simply that the holes
> > aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the unit supplied
> > later today or over the weekend.
>
> >
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
Anybody considering installing ( or not ) a gascolator? I'm not sure if it was
part of the FWF kit but I asked them to leave it out since I have an Andair. The
FWF plans do not show installation of one nor is it mentioned in the fuel section
of the FWF manual. The tech guy I talked to at Vans didn't know if their
IO-540 10 had one or if it was even needed for that engine. Ideas or thoughts
appreciated. Mark C. (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
Before you take out any tempory rivets you NEED to start at the very bigging of
the QB plans and go through them page by page to check the status of the QB work
already done. I just took a marker and checked off each step and dog eared
the page and used a red pen to mark parts not yet done.
I had one of the first QB deliveries and you can't depend on the plans. There
were even parts not sent that were supposed to have already been installed. Front
floor panels for example.
The thing you need to remember about the RV-10 QB is that this is a new project
and it will take a couple of years for the system to get completly refined to
the point that the RV-7 QB is as of today.
One of the things that I just completed was creating (not in plans) access panels
in the rear baggage floors so that I could install a transponder antenna and
a COM whip antenna on either side of the baggage floor area but still have access
to them after the baggage floors are riveted down.
Russ Daves
#40044 (Putting on Baggage Door today)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
spamd2.ruraltel.net
* -2.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_4 Message came from 63.163.37-39.x network
1.60 NO_DNS_FOR_FROM DNS: Envelope sender has no MX or A DNS records
Is it necessary to edge roll the HS skins??? They have some overhang behind the
rear spar so this question came up. Also, how much bend is in the aluminum
(How much edge rolling is necessary???)?
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
HS Primed, c'sinking HS spars, then driving rivets
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Edge rolling |
If it's necessary, the plans will call for it. I can't remember
how that section reads anymore, but it will specifically say
if you need to or not. Mine are not edged rolled on the trailing
edge of the HS, so I assume it's not in the plans.
When you do have to edge roll something, just a slight bend is usually
all you want. It's not something easily measured, but just keep
in mind that the idea is just to prevent the skin from folding
outward and causing a gap when you put the rivets in and things
are clamped tight. It won't take much of a bend.
PS: Nice to be able to get a reply on a saturday, huh. ;)
Tim #40170
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Is it necessary to edge roll the HS skins??? They have some overhang
> behind the rear spar so this question came up. Also, how much bend is
> in the aluminum (How much edge rolling is necessary???)?
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
> HS Primed, c'sinking HS spars, then driving rivets
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Edge rolling |
Bill,
I didn't roll mine, the elevator fits perfectly with the skins following their
natural line from the leading edge to the trailing edge.
Rick S.
40185
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Hey David how about some pics so we can see how much is done on the QB.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: QB fuselage
>
> Just finishing the inventory of the QB fuselage, finish kit and FF kit.
> Van's does a good job to ensure everything is there. For others who worked
> the QB fuselage: Is there a specific section of the plans that are
> complete and specific sections left undone or did you just drill out the
> temporary rivets and start checking from the beginning of the slow build
> plans? Or are there specific QB plans?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 6:30 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>
>
>> Ok, let's give it a try. First picture is of a FloScan 231 - you can see
>> how the mounting holes are diagonally opposed relative to the input &
>> output ports. Second picture is the EI FT-60 which has a larger spacing
>> between mounting holes and they're both on the same side relative to the
>> input & output ports.
>>
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 07:47 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Cc:
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey Bob,
>>
>> Just FYI, Matt Dralle actually did a change to the list when we hopped
>> over here. You can now attach an image if you want. Try sending a
>> .jpg to the list....I think it will go.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>> > Randy,
>> >
>> > Not sure when they changed - maybe when they went from the ACS-2002 to
>> > AF-2500? I just looked at my transducer and it's an Electronics
>> > Internation FT-60 (Red Cube). Instead of having the mounting holes on
>> > diagonal corners, it has them on a single side spaced 1 3/8" center to
>> > center which is a little further apart than the Van's supplied bracket
>> > holes. I just checked on the AFS website and they show this unit in
>> > the latest manual on page 40:
>>
>> > http://advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorSupport/AF-2500%20System%20Manual%20V3.0.pdf
>> >
>> > I snapped a picture of it but the list will strips off attachments.
>> >
>> > Bob
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy
>> > DeBauw
>> > Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 03:46 PM
>> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> > Cc:
>> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Mine fit fine Bob. I put it in 9 months ago. When did they
>> > change? Randy
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>> > Condrey, Bob
>> > (US SSA)
>> > Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:19 PM
>> > To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
>> > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500
>> > (formerly ACS-2002) and the sensor that they provided was different
>> > than the bracket supplied in the kit was designed to take. Very easy
>> > to fix before riveting the various fuselage ribs, skins, etc. in place.
>> > Unfortunately, difficult to change the bracket when you get to the
>> > chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is simply that the holes
>> > aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the unit supplied
>> > later today or over the weekend.
>>
>> >
>> >
>> > Bob #40105
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Picture Attachments |
I don't seem to see any of the attachments in my E-Mails?
Do I have to go to the matronics site?
Also, It would be helpful to delete old E-Mail attachments (except for any particular
phrases from old E-Mails.
Thanks, Jim Combs
#40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
I'll keep posting these in case we eventually get a hit.
Anyone have a Finish Kit delivery they would like to hold off for a bit? Avoid
having to pay your kit cost balance by swapping delivery positions with us.
We hesitated to gather some cash flow back in January and it seems like a lot
of people have "jumped ahead" in line. Now we're cooling our heels with a completed
fuselage and no Finish Kit.
If you have a Finish kit delivery in April or early May, and you'd like to swap
for the first of June, please contact me.
Thanks,
Tim
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: QB fuselage
Just finishing the inventory of the QB fuselage, finish kit and FF kit.
Van's does a good job to ensure everything is there. For others who worked
the QB fuselage: Is there a specific section of the plans that are complete
and specific sections left undone or did you just drill out the temporary
rivets and start checking from the beginning of the slow build plans? Or are
there specific QB plans?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
> Ok, let's give it a try. First picture is of a FloScan 231 - you can see
> how the mounting holes are diagonally opposed relative to the input &
> output ports. Second picture is the EI FT-60 which has a larger spacing
> between mounting holes and they're both on the same side relative to the
> input & output ports.
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
> Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 07:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Cc:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
>
>
> Hey Bob,
>
> Just FYI, Matt Dralle actually did a change to the list when we hopped
> over here. You can now attach an image if you want. Try sending a
> .jpg to the list....I think it will go.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > Randy,
> >
> > Not sure when they changed - maybe when they went from the ACS-2002 to
> > AF-2500? I just looked at my transducer and it's an Electronics
> > Internation FT-60 (Red Cube). Instead of having the mounting holes on
> > diagonal corners, it has them on a single side spaced 1 3/8" center to
> > center which is a little further apart than the Van's supplied bracket
> > holes. I just checked on the AFS website and they show this unit in the
> > latest manual on page 40:
>
> > http://advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorSupport/AF-2500%20System%20Manual%20V3.0.pdf
> >
> > I snapped a picture of it but the list will strips off attachments.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy
> > DeBauw
> > Sent: Fri 04/08/2005 03:46 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Cc:
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Mine fit fine Bob. I put it in 9 months ago. When did they
> > change? Randy
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey,
> > Bob
> > (US SSA)
> > Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 1:19 PM
> > To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Flow Transducer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Heads up - I ordered the fuel flow transducer for an AF-2500
> > (formerly ACS-2002) and the sensor that they provided was different than
> > the bracket supplied in the kit was designed to take. Very easy to fix
> > before riveting the various fuselage ribs, skins, etc. in place.
> > Unfortunately, difficult to change the bracket when you get to the
> > chapter on plumbing the fuel system. Problem is simply that the holes
> > aren't spaced or aligned the same. I'll post info on the unit supplied
> > later today or over the weekend.
>
> >
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Engines-List(at)matronics.com, Europa-List(at)matronics.com,
Kitfox-List(at)matronics.com, Kolb-List(at)matronics.com,
Pietenpol-List(at)matronics.com, Rocket-List(at)matronics.com,
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Tailwind-List(at)matronics.com, Yak-List(at)matronics.com,
Zenith-List(at)matronics.com
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Wally Messages Stopped! |
Dear Listers,
My sincere apologies! At about 4:30am this morning there was an odd system
problem on the Matornics email server, causing many mail files to become
marked as "read-only". This wedged many of the List filters causing all
sorts of weird behavior. Perhaps the oddest was that an innocent message
from Walter Critchlow, kept getting posted instead of the actual incoming
List message.
If you receive this message, and sent a list message to any of the lists
your message was one of the ones that got subverted. Please repost your
message to the respective list.
AeroElectric-list
Commandaer-list
Engines-List
Europa-List
Kitfox-List
Kolb-List
Pietenpol-List
Rocket-List
RV-List
RV9-List
RV10-List
Tailwind-List
Yak-List
Zenith-List
Again, my sincere apologies for the problems. I was doing my Taxes (!)
today and wasn't keeping as close an eye on the Lists as I normally do.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primers - Alodine, Epoxy, Zinc Chromate |
Tim covered the Alodine and prep...I am using enamel based Zinc Chromate and AKZO
depending on my mood and amount I need to spray, as far as epoxy, the best
things we (meaning Las Vegas builders) found and two of the three of us are using
is either AKZO primer, it's epoxy based and similar in color to yellow Zinc
Chromate or Sherwin Williams Epoxy primer John Erickson is using which is tough
as nails, (as is the AKZO) I have had good success with the AKZO, I didn't
think Zinc Chromate came in anything but a lacquer or enamel base, If your even
thinking of epoxy primer I would go with the SW or AKZO...AKZO is available
at Aircraft Spruce. Around $120?? for the set of base and catalyst.
My best advice about any gotchas is I can't recall very many....read and study
your plans well, don't drill, cut or rivet anythng until you have made sure your
supposed to drill, cut or rivet. Take your time initially and soon it will
be second nature, this kit is VERY easy to build with the plans Van's Supplies.
I have ordered the plans as they came available even though I didn't have that
part of the kit. It allows you to see how the part your working on fits into
the big picture. If what your doing doesn't make sense you can look into the
future to see how it will be used at that time, helped me on the wings a few
times and plus they are fun to read. Don't drive your first rivet on the actual
kit...practice on the scrap Vans sends in the kit or get their practive kit,
go to one of the kit classes out there or seek out your local EAA chapter for
some advice on how to set rivets....May the smiley Gods smile favorably on you,
if your lucky you won't give up on your polished aluminum airframe finish until
maybe the elevators, unlike most of us who gave it up on the vertical stabilizer.
When you get to the trim tabs..remind us, there are some tips to make
them easier to bend. Read all the web sites you can. Tim Olson, Mike Howe, Dan
Checkoway, William Curtis and even ol' James McClows site has some wonderful
family building moments ;) ...I think you can link to all of them from Tim's
site or the Links part of Vans site. Welcome to the madness!!
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit Gotcha's |
At this stage of building I would suggest rounding off
the VS-1002, VS-1005 & VS-1013 ribs. This technique is
described on page 8-7 for the HS-905 ribs. I didn't
round off my VS ribs (the plans don't tell you to). I
now have a small outward dent on the VS skins over
where I'm suggesting to round them off. Everything
else about the kit is very well explained.
Steve 40212 wings arrive this week!
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit Gotcha's |
Geez, I spoke too soon. Steve's right...that was probably my first
gotcha. I ended up shortening the nose of the nose ribs for the VS
a tiny bit, and rounded them over more too. This happened, of course,
after I forced the skin around them on the VS and ended up with the
same outward dent that Steve has. The kicker is that later on in
the building the plans warn you to check this for the HS. If they'd
have warned me sooner, I wouldn't have made the mistake in the first
place.
Good catch, Steve. There aren't many gotchas, but there are a few
like that.
One thing to be careful of too is not to let the mushroom head rivet
set slide off the area of the rib when you're hammering a rib (any
rib, any section). This can leave you with a small dent/crease in
the skin right where the rib edge is.
Oh, here's another quick gotcha. Do a good job of putting those
VS spar caps in tightly when you drill them. I had plastic clamps
holding mine, and had one that wasn't in fully tight when I got done
drilling. I ended up ordering more material and doing it over.
And I'll toss in a building tip. If you mess something up, and
have to order from Van's, buy a couple of lengths of the 2 or 3
popular sizes of aluminum angle. You'll be making a lot of stuff
out of them, and you'll probably mess one or two things up.
Now you'll have scrap. You'll also find it handy for things like
installing the Gretz pitot mount, beefing up the panel when you
cut the ribs a bit, and other odds and ends. May as well
get it early.
Tim
Darton Steve wrote:
>
>
> At this stage of building I would suggest rounding off
> the VS-1002, VS-1005 & VS-1013 ribs. This technique is
> described on page 8-7 for the HS-905 ribs. I didn't
> round off my VS ribs (the plans don't tell you to). I
> now have a small outward dent on the VS skins over
> where I'm suggesting to round them off. Everything
> else about the kit is very well explained.
> Steve 40212 wings arrive this week!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 composite tidbits |
I spoke to Van's about the makeup of the "lid". They say that it is all glass (E
or S they know not) and matrixed with the West system epoxy. The door shells
obviously have some carbon fiber in them.
NOW FOR THE IMPORTANT PART.
I visited with Phoenix Composites and inquired about the compatibility of The West
System epoxy and the Vinyl ester resin of the Glastar/Glasair kit. The vinyl
ester will not adhere structurally to The West system epoxy so all RV10 glass
work should use The West System. If perchance some of the fiberglass parts
from Van's used Vinyl ester resin The West System will still adhere to it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Squeezing Rivets |
spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -2.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
1.60 NO_DNS_FOR_FROM DNS: Envelope sender has no MX or A DNS records
I'm trying to squeeze AN470AD4-4 rivets on the inboard most H1004's and stringer
web flanges. Every one I squeeze ends up bending. I know that it is very important
to keep the squeezer perpendicular to the rivet, but on a flat piece
of pancaked aluminum I can squeeze them just fine. They are a little shorter
on the flat aluminum. Is it possible that the size 4 rivets are too long. Has
anybody else had this problem and had to shorten the rivets for this step???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing Rivets |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RV10 composite tidbits |
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
Subject: RV10 composite tidbits
I spoke to Van's about the makeup of the "lid". They say that it is all glass (E
or S they know not) and matrixed with the West system epoxy. The door shells
obviously have some carbon fiber in them.
NOW FOR THE IMPORTANT PART.
I visited with Phoenix Composites and inquired about the compatibility of The West
System epoxy and the Vinyl ester resin of the Glastar/Glasair kit. The vinyl
ester will not adhere structurally to The West system epoxy so all RV10 glass
work should use The West System. If perchance some of the fiberglass parts
from Van's used Vinyl ester resin The West System will still adhere to it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing Rivets |
Bill,
Another trick to try is to set the rivet in two passes instead of one. Set
your squeezer to partially set the rivet then reset it to finish the job. Worked
well for me.
John Hasbrouck
waiting on the wing kit
40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing Rivets |
For the life of me I can't find the rivets you
are trying to squeeze. I have just completed the
HS and I went back to look at the plans. Are you
speaking of the two HS-1004 ribs that angle in
from front to rear. The only 4-4 rivets I see are
on the outer most HS-904 ribs attaching to the
forward and rear spar. I had no problem squeezing
them. Help me out here, I think I'm going nuts.
Robert
--- Bill and Tami Britton
wrote:
> I'm trying to squeeze AN470AD4-4 rivets on the
> inboard most H1004's and stringer web flanges.
> Every one I squeeze ends up bending. I know
> that it is very important to keep the squeezer
> perpendicular to the rivet, but on a flat piece
> of pancaked aluminum I can squeeze them just
> fine. They are a little shorter on the flat
> aluminum. Is it possible that the size 4
> rivets are too long. Has anybody else had this
> problem and had to shorten the rivets for this
> step???
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp
> Riveting HS
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeezing Rivets |
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -2.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
These rivets are on the first page of riveting on the HS (I think it's page
8-10). Yes, it's the HS-1004's that angle inward. The ones we cut both
tabs off of earlier. I'm squeezing the rivets that go through the body of
the ribs (we drilled them to the stiffener web (I think HS1016)). They call
for 4-4's.
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Squeezing Rivets
>
> For the life of me I can't find the rivets you
> are trying to squeeze. I have just completed the
> HS and I went back to look at the plans. Are you
> speaking of the two HS-1004 ribs that angle in
> from front to rear. The only 4-4 rivets I see are
> on the outer most HS-904 ribs attaching to the
> forward and rear spar. I had no problem squeezing
> them. Help me out here, I think I'm going nuts.
> Robert
> --- Bill and Tami Britton
> wrote:
> > I'm trying to squeeze AN470AD4-4 rivets on the
> > inboard most H1004's and stringer web flanges.
> > Every one I squeeze ends up bending. I know
> > that it is very important to keep the squeezer
> > perpendicular to the rivet, but on a flat piece
> > of pancaked aluminum I can squeeze them just
> > fine. They are a little shorter on the flat
> > aluminum. Is it possible that the size 4
> > rivets are too long. Has anybody else had this
> > problem and had to shorten the rivets for this
> > step???
> >
> > TIA
> > Bill Britton
> > RV-10 Emp
> > Riveting HS
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org> |
I talked to some people at sanchem and got a price list, as well as some
tech docs and msds sheets that I can forward to anyone who is interested:
******
We can also package these products in pint container.
Cleaner/Surface Conditioner - SafeGard CC-6100C Cleaner
Price: 1 gallon - $35.00
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-6100A
Price: 1 gallon - $30.00
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-6100B
Price: 1 gallon - $30.00
Conversion Coating - SafeGard CC-3400seal#2-
Price: 1 gallon - $40.00
We accept Visa & Mastercard and we ship via UPS.
********
I don't know if everybody saw the thread below, I got the original message
but it doesn't show up in the archives.
Anyone else have any experience with this stuff?
james
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RE: RV10-List: alodining
Looks interesting.
Hmm.. they say you can spray it, brush it, or pretty much put it on however
you like which is nice. I don't see anything on their site about
recommended protective gear while applying (i.e. I'm sure if your spraying
it you need some kind of respirator mask)
A couple of questions I have are, what's it cost, where does one get it, and
what's the recommended surface prep before using it? The other thing they
keep talking about is some of the products are "cold applied" for field
repairs. any one know what that means, and what does it mean in reference to
the regular chemicals?
The performance results they have posted on their site seem to be pretty
impressive. Anyone with any real-world experience with this stuff?
Thanks,
James
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian bollaert
Subject: RV10-List: alodining
Hello Group:
I have been doing alought of studying on the subject of alodining (or not) ,
i really had a hard time with the toxicity of the thing . I was talking to
friend of mine about this problem and he mentioned that there was a product
he came across while he was doing a position paper in the university that he
was attending , the problem he was to solve was (find a product that does
the same thing without the toxicity ) anyway the company is in chicago
(sanchem inc.)http://sanchem.com/ , read the papers on the site , the us
military uses it also boeing!, . This is what i am using on our -10 .
what does the group think?
brian bollaert
#40200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
Tim Olson wrote:
> When I started building, I shopped long and hard and I purchased a
> very nice one, for not any more than many cheaper ones run.
> It's the Campbell Hausfeld VT6271, which is a 26 gal. twin cylinder cast
> iron (240V only -- 15A) oil lube that puts out 10.3@90PSI (11.8@40PSI).
I've found the following unit that I think may be okay:
Campbell Hausfeld
28 Gallon Air Compressor
Factory-Serviced
6.25HP peak, 28-gallon air compressor ideal for projects around your
garage. 1.8 running HP, 7.4/6.1 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI. 150 MAX PSI.
Quieter operation (89dBa)
Convenient handle provides easy portability.
1 year Warranty
Model WL611700RB
$223
I'm not planning on doing any painting with it, just
running the air tools. Does this look like it is adequate?
Is 89dBa "quiet" as air compressors go? It seems pretty
loud to me but it may be decent in comparison to other
air compressors.
Thanks,
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
<425B3A45.1070000(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <425B3CFA.1070301(at)MyRV10.com>
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> If it's a cast-iron cylinder, it's probably an ok compressor for
> a project. Just don't get an oil free model...nothing but problems.
> It definitely will run much more often than one with
> more CFM, and run longer when it runs, but if you're power limited,
> then it's probably just fine. You wouldn't want to go smaller
> one though, so this would be a good compromise. It's probably
> the same basic tank as what's on mine, but with less CFM.
>
> Tim
Hi Tim,
I called them to talk about it.
It is cast iron, but unfortunately is oilless.
It runs about 89dBa, and the oiled units they
have run about 83dBa.
Unfortunately they cost twice as much.
The next nearest unit I can find is the
VS6231 at $409. It has slightly less
SCFM (5.6 versus the 6.1 at 90 for the oiless unit).
I can get the oilless unit mentioned earlier for $160.
Is 6dBa worth $249? I don't really have any feel
for what difference 6dBa makes. I'm basically just looking for
a unit for this project, and don't really care of it lasts
a lifetime, just the next few years of airplane building...
Does 20 gallon versus 28 gallon make much of
a difference? Wow, I really know next to nothing about
air compressors... :-)
VS6231: 120v 147lbs 83dBa
Single stage, single cylinder, 2 Running HP, cast iron portable
20-gallon tank
Model: VS6231
Cast Iron single cylinder single stage pump - for durability and long
life
20 gallon horizontal ASME code tank - the most popular portable tank
size today
Unit made in the US - 2 year warranty - quality construction backed by
an extended warranty
Quieter operation than direct drive compressors - less noise means you
can work closer to the unit
Warranty: 2 Years
Approx. Retail-New Unit: $450.00
The VS6231, 2 Running HP Oil-Lubricated, Belt-Drive compressor has a
cast iron, single cylinder pump for extreme durability. The 20 Gallon
horizontal tank delivers 6.4/5.6 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI and the low RPM pump
promotes long life and quiet operation. The VS6231 has a maximum
pressure of 125 PSI.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I just upgraded from the VT6315 26 gal, 5 HP oiled to the 60 gallon, 7HP version.
Big difference is only really apparent with the drill and die grinders though.
The VT6315 can be configured for either 120 or 240 volts - it's a LOT nicer
when running on 240. I've still got it in my garage (only 1.5 years old)
and would love to give a fellow RV-10 builder a deal if we could figure out the
shipping. For somebody willing to wait a couple months, I could also bring
it to OSH with me. If anybody's interested I'll let it go for $200 which is about
50% of what I paid for it. Contact me offline if interested.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: air compressor
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> If it's a cast-iron cylinder, it's probably an ok compressor for
> a project. Just don't get an oil free model...nothing but problems.
> It definitely will run much more often than one with
> more CFM, and run longer when it runs, but if you're power limited,
> then it's probably just fine. You wouldn't want to go smaller
> one though, so this would be a good compromise. It's probably
> the same basic tank as what's on mine, but with less CFM.
>
> Tim
Hi Tim,
I called them to talk about it.
It is cast iron, but unfortunately is oilless.
It runs about 89dBa, and the oiled units they
have run about 83dBa.
Unfortunately they cost twice as much.
The next nearest unit I can find is the
VS6231 at $409. It has slightly less
SCFM (5.6 versus the 6.1 at 90 for the oiless unit).
I can get the oilless unit mentioned earlier for $160.
Is 6dBa worth $249? I don't really have any feel
for what difference 6dBa makes. I'm basically just looking for
a unit for this project, and don't really care of it lasts
a lifetime, just the next few years of airplane building...
Does 20 gallon versus 28 gallon make much of
a difference? Wow, I really know next to nothing about
air compressors... :-)
VS6231: 120v 147lbs 83dBa
Single stage, single cylinder, 2 Running HP, cast iron portable
20-gallon tank
Model: VS6231
Cast Iron single cylinder single stage pump - for durability and long
life
20 gallon horizontal ASME code tank - the most popular portable tank
size today
Unit made in the US - 2 year warranty - quality construction backed by
an extended warranty
Quieter operation than direct drive compressors - less noise means you
can work closer to the unit
Warranty: 2 Years
Approx. Retail-New Unit: $450.00
The VS6231, 2 Running HP Oil-Lubricated, Belt-Drive compressor has a
cast iron, single cylinder pump for extreme durability. The 20 Gallon
horizontal tank delivers 6.4/5.6 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI and the low RPM pump
promotes long life and quiet operation. The VS6231 has a maximum
pressure of 125 PSI.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group. Or more
important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I have a
question.
John W. Cox
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10
group. Or more important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness.
I
have a question.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
<425B3A45.1070000(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <425B3CFA.1070301(at)MyRV10.com> <425C2C72.7040207(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Just as a comparison / brief review, I got the sears 33 gallon 6HP 150
psi, 6.4SCFM@90 psi horiziontal tank model for $299... it came with some
air tools (impact wrench, socket wrench, and air hammer -- this is NOT a
rivet gun ;) It is oil-free and I have to say, pretty durn loud when it
is running in the shop. It seems ok from outside as far as waking up
the neighbors is concerned but I generally put on some ear protection
while I am using it. I have no idea what the actual dBa is, however I
think that from a purely subjective view (my ears) that it isn't any
more unpleasant on the ears than the rivet gun, air drill, and shop vac.
That said, as far as capacity is concerned the tank will run the 3x
rivet gun for about 40 rivets before it kicks on, you can drill for
maybe a couple of minutes and the blower attachment at 120 psi will have
it running in about 45 seconds to a minute. The compressor kicks on
when the tank drops below about 120psi and takes maybe 90 seconds to
fill back up if you aren't using air while it is filling. The end
result is that the compressor was actually running (excluding initial
fill-up) for significantly less than 10% of the time that I was building
the practice kit. (as a side note the manual says the duty cycle is 50%
for this compressor)
I haven't ordered the real kit yet, so I don't know how well that
translates to what you would see building the -10, and I don't have any
idea what the performance would be like using a spray gun.
I think that without spending the big dollars on a truly "quiet"
compressor the best thing one can do to reduce the amount of noise is to
get the biggest tank you can find and reduce the amount of time that the
compressor kicks on (of course it will take a bit longer to fill
initially;) The other factor, as I understand it, is that the oil-free
compressors don't last as long as the oiled ones when they are properly
maintained. The other really big noise event with this compressor (and
probably all of them) is that the drain opening is about 3/16 ths across
so when you drain the tank it definately is painful to the ears if you
don't have hearing protection on. I did see at the home depot a 60
gallon compressor with a tool set for $399 at one point but it was too
big for the shop and I'd never heard of the brand ;)
HTH,
James
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> If it's a cast-iron cylinder, it's probably an ok compressor for
>> a project. Just don't get an oil free model...nothing but problems.
>> It definitely will run much more often than one with
>> more CFM, and run longer when it runs, but if you're power limited,
>> then it's probably just fine. You wouldn't want to go smaller
>> one though, so this would be a good compromise. It's probably
>> the same basic tank as what's on mine, but with less CFM.
>>
>> Tim
>
>
> Hi Tim,
> I called them to talk about it.
> It is cast iron, but unfortunately is oilless.
> It runs about 89dBa, and the oiled units they
> have run about 83dBa.
> Unfortunately they cost twice as much.
> The next nearest unit I can find is the
> VS6231 at $409. It has slightly less
> SCFM (5.6 versus the 6.1 at 90 for the oiless unit).
> I can get the oilless unit mentioned earlier for $160.
>
> Is 6dBa worth $249? I don't really have any feel
> for what difference 6dBa makes. I'm basically just looking for
> a unit for this project, and don't really care of it lasts
> a lifetime, just the next few years of airplane building...
>
> Does 20 gallon versus 28 gallon make much of
> a difference? Wow, I really know next to nothing about
> air compressors... :-)
>
> VS6231: 120v 147lbs 83dBa
> Single stage, single cylinder, 2 Running HP, cast iron portable
> 20-gallon tank
> Model: VS6231
>
> Cast Iron single cylinder single stage pump - for durability and
> long life
> 20 gallon horizontal ASME code tank - the most popular portable
> tank size today
> Unit made in the US - 2 year warranty - quality construction
> backed by an extended warranty
> Quieter operation than direct drive compressors - less noise
> means you can work closer to the unit
>
> Warranty: 2 Years
> Approx. Retail-New Unit: $450.00
>
> The VS6231, 2 Running HP Oil-Lubricated, Belt-Drive compressor has a
> cast iron, single cylinder pump for extreme durability. The 20 Gallon
> horizontal tank delivers 6.4/5.6 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI and the low RPM pump
> promotes long life and quiet operation. The VS6231 has a maximum
> pressure of 125 PSI.
>
> -Dj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Well, I ought to put in my two cents here. I have a compressor from Sears
that I bought 13 yrs ago - oil free with a 25 gal tank I think. It does 6.8
CFM at 90. Well, over the years it has taken quite a beating. In one of our
old homes I did the entire house's hardwood floors with a pneumatic nailer.
I have painted whole cars with it. I am still using it. Is it loud? I don't
know anymore because I hardly notice it. It has always been with me. I
think, like a good ole dog it will be.
My advice: get what you can and go along. CFM is most important than the
single stage or whatever. Mine has lasted more than my expectations and will
finish this project also.
Mani
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: air compressor
Just as a comparison / brief review, I got the sears 33 gallon 6HP 150
psi, 6.4SCFM@90 psi horiziontal tank model for $299... it came with some
air tools (impact wrench, socket wrench, and air hammer -- this is NOT a
rivet gun ;) It is oil-free and I have to say, pretty durn loud when it
is running in the shop. It seems ok from outside as far as waking up
the neighbors is concerned but I generally put on some ear protection
while I am using it. I have no idea what the actual dBa is, however I
think that from a purely subjective view (my ears) that it isn't any
more unpleasant on the ears than the rivet gun, air drill, and shop vac.
That said, as far as capacity is concerned the tank will run the 3x
rivet gun for about 40 rivets before it kicks on, you can drill for
maybe a couple of minutes and the blower attachment at 120 psi will have
it running in about 45 seconds to a minute. The compressor kicks on
when the tank drops below about 120psi and takes maybe 90 seconds to
fill back up if you aren't using air while it is filling. The end
result is that the compressor was actually running (excluding initial
fill-up) for significantly less than 10% of the time that I was building
the practice kit. (as a side note the manual says the duty cycle is 50%
for this compressor)
I haven't ordered the real kit yet, so I don't know how well that
translates to what you would see building the -10, and I don't have any
idea what the performance would be like using a spray gun.
I think that without spending the big dollars on a truly "quiet"
compressor the best thing one can do to reduce the amount of noise is to
get the biggest tank you can find and reduce the amount of time that the
compressor kicks on (of course it will take a bit longer to fill
initially;) The other factor, as I understand it, is that the oil-free
compressors don't last as long as the oiled ones when they are properly
maintained. The other really big noise event with this compressor (and
probably all of them) is that the drain opening is about 3/16 ths across
so when you drain the tank it definately is painful to the ears if you
don't have hearing protection on. I did see at the home depot a 60
gallon compressor with a tool set for $399 at one point but it was too
big for the shop and I'd never heard of the brand ;)
HTH,
James
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> If it's a cast-iron cylinder, it's probably an ok compressor for
>> a project. Just don't get an oil free model...nothing but problems.
>> It definitely will run much more often than one with
>> more CFM, and run longer when it runs, but if you're power limited,
>> then it's probably just fine. You wouldn't want to go smaller
>> one though, so this would be a good compromise. It's probably
>> the same basic tank as what's on mine, but with less CFM.
>>
>> Tim
>
>
> Hi Tim,
> I called them to talk about it.
> It is cast iron, but unfortunately is oilless.
> It runs about 89dBa, and the oiled units they
> have run about 83dBa.
> Unfortunately they cost twice as much.
> The next nearest unit I can find is the
> VS6231 at $409. It has slightly less
> SCFM (5.6 versus the 6.1 at 90 for the oiless unit).
> I can get the oilless unit mentioned earlier for $160.
>
> Is 6dBa worth $249? I don't really have any feel
> for what difference 6dBa makes. I'm basically just looking for
> a unit for this project, and don't really care of it lasts
> a lifetime, just the next few years of airplane building...
>
> Does 20 gallon versus 28 gallon make much of
> a difference? Wow, I really know next to nothing about
> air compressors... :-)
>
> VS6231: 120v 147lbs 83dBa
> Single stage, single cylinder, 2 Running HP, cast iron portable
> 20-gallon tank
> Model: VS6231
>
> Cast Iron single cylinder single stage pump - for durability and
> long life
> 20 gallon horizontal ASME code tank - the most popular portable
> tank size today
> Unit made in the US - 2 year warranty - quality construction
> backed by an extended warranty
> Quieter operation than direct drive compressors - less noise
> means you can work closer to the unit
>
> Warranty: 2 Years
> Approx. Retail-New Unit: $450.00
>
> The VS6231, 2 Running HP Oil-Lubricated, Belt-Drive compressor has a
> cast iron, single cylinder pump for extreme durability. The 20 Gallon
> horizontal tank delivers 6.4/5.6 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI and the low RPM pump
> promotes long life and quiet operation. The VS6231 has a maximum
> pressure of 125 PSI.
>
> -Dj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
Hi John:
As one of my duties in our engineering department I reviewed several
software packages 5-6 years ago. Solidworks was the one I settled on! I
don't use it regularly but my engineers do on a daily basis - we are on
an annual subscription service. The program is very robust and out
performs similar programs costing 4X . I have been pleased!
I monitor the groups but don't post a lot but felt I may be able to help
out a little here. Let me know if there are any specific questions and I
will see what I can find out.
Byron Gillespie
QB wings on order - starting on fuselage kit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group. Or
more important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I
have a question.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
<425B3A45.1070000(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <425B3CFA.1070301(at)MyRV10.com> <425C2C72.7040207(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Hi again Dj,
I know, shopping for these cool toys can be quite the mental drain
sometimes... I have also read the other posts from today that you
got in reply. All I can say is, yeah, I know that not everybody's
oil-free compressor blows up on them, but you're WAY less likely
to have problems with an oiled unit. And, pretty much every oil
lubed unit will be quieter than oil-free. Cast iron cylinders
is quieter, but really, I personally wouldn't worry quite as
much about the brand OR the size as the quality. If you get
a larger 5+ cfm unit, you'll be able to build your plane just
fine. I have a good friend who is an RV-4 builder. He had/has
a craftsman oil-free. His compressor is so obnoxiously loud that
he actually doesn't build during some evenings because of kids
sleeping and things like that. Then, to cap it off, his oil free
compressor went out on him. I happened to have a "spare" small,
very old, approximately 5cfm, 20 or so gallon compressor that I
loaned him for maybe 6 months or more. He fell in love with it,
and recently bought a nice compressor....just leaving his
oil-free to lay dead. You're spending a small fortune on the
plane, and the tools. I'd say, buy one that will last. The oil
free one may last 6 months, 6 years, or 16 years, but, it will
be louder for that whole time.
Do yourself a favor....go to http://groups.google.com and read
about 25 or 50 threads where you search for:
oilless, compressor, loud or oil-free compressor, loud.
If you read a bunch of threads, you'll be researching and
reading many peoples advice. You'll notice a trend. You'll
see a lot of stuff that will help form an informed opinion.
In the end, look at what you REALLY want, and just find any
brand/make/model that fits your description. I myself
wanted a 60 gallon 10CFM 220V unit...but I didn't want to
lose the space, so I got the same compressor with a smaller
tank. It's been great for me, since it runs maybe more often
than the 60 gallon, but it fills up in just seconds. The smaller
compressor pump you get, the more you get to listen to it. The
smaller tank you get, the more OFTEN you get to listen to it.
But, like I said, you can probably get ANY 5+ cfm compressor
and do your kit just fine. I'd even look in the local classifieds
if I were you. Too bad we're not neighbors...I'd loan you my
old one for a while.
Tim
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> If it's a cast-iron cylinder, it's probably an ok compressor for
>> a project. Just don't get an oil free model...nothing but problems.
>> It definitely will run much more often than one with
>> more CFM, and run longer when it runs, but if you're power limited,
>> then it's probably just fine. You wouldn't want to go smaller
>> one though, so this would be a good compromise. It's probably
>> the same basic tank as what's on mine, but with less CFM.
>>
>> Tim
>
>
> Hi Tim,
> I called them to talk about it.
> It is cast iron, but unfortunately is oilless.
> It runs about 89dBa, and the oiled units they
> have run about 83dBa.
> Unfortunately they cost twice as much.
> The next nearest unit I can find is the
> VS6231 at $409. It has slightly less
> SCFM (5.6 versus the 6.1 at 90 for the oiless unit).
> I can get the oilless unit mentioned earlier for $160.
>
> Is 6dBa worth $249? I don't really have any feel
> for what difference 6dBa makes. I'm basically just looking for
> a unit for this project, and don't really care of it lasts
> a lifetime, just the next few years of airplane building...
>
> Does 20 gallon versus 28 gallon make much of
> a difference? Wow, I really know next to nothing about
> air compressors... :-)
>
> VS6231: 120v 147lbs 83dBa
> Single stage, single cylinder, 2 Running HP, cast iron portable
> 20-gallon tank
> Model: VS6231
>
> Cast Iron single cylinder single stage pump - for durability and
> long life
> 20 gallon horizontal ASME code tank - the most popular portable
> tank size today
> Unit made in the US - 2 year warranty - quality construction backed
> by an extended warranty
> Quieter operation than direct drive compressors - less noise means
> you can work closer to the unit
>
> Warranty: 2 Years
> Approx. Retail-New Unit: $450.00
>
> The VS6231, 2 Running HP Oil-Lubricated, Belt-Drive compressor has a
> cast iron, single cylinder pump for extreme durability. The 20 Gallon
> horizontal tank delivers 6.4/5.6 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI and the low RPM pump
> promotes long life and quiet operation. The VS6231 has a maximum
> pressure of 125 PSI.
>
> -Dj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
I have a oil-less compressor I bought at Sam's Club. Don't remember the
specifics, but it's about 30 gallons, about 6 - 8 cfm at 90 psi, upright
tank.
PROs: Cheap, no maintenance except draining the tank, more than enough
cfm to prime and intermittently use cheap Harbor Freight die grinder.
CONs: LLOOUUDD!! It is REALLY LOUD!!
However, look at Dan Checkoway's website and look at his compressor
muffler. I did something very similar. I built a plywood box w/ floor
around the compressor. Removable top, but I haven't had a need to open
it in a long time. Sliding access panel at the bottom to access the
drain spigot. I put an inside/outside temp guage in it (inside is shop
temp, outside is in the compressor box). Worked great, but got REALLY
hot quickly inside. So I bought a bathroom ceiling fan at Lowes,
installed it along with two switches on the front of the box (one for
the compressor and on for the fan.) and wired a couple switched outlets
inside the box. With fan on, it takes about 10 - 15 minutes of continous
compressor use (ie die grinder) for the temp in the box to get over 100F
(my off the cuff limit for "it's getting too hot...") I also used a
couple sheets of 2in thick garage door insulation foam lining the
insides of the box for noise suppression. You can easily carry on a
conversation with the compressor going. More work than buying an
oilless, but more fun building and cheaper. (another doodad for the
panel...) As always, YMMV...
John
#40208 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: air compressor
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> If it's a cast-iron cylinder, it's probably an ok compressor for a
> project. Just don't get an oil free model...nothing but problems.
> It definitely will run much more often than one with more CFM, and run
> longer when it runs, but if you're power limited, then it's probably
> just fine. You wouldn't want to go smaller one though, so this would
> be a good compromise. It's probably the same basic tank as what's on
> mine, but with less CFM.
>
> Tim
Hi Tim,
I called them to talk about it.
It is cast iron, but unfortunately is oilless.
It runs about 89dBa, and the oiled units they have run about 83dBa.
Unfortunately they cost twice as much.
The next nearest unit I can find is the
VS6231 at $409. It has slightly less
SCFM (5.6 versus the 6.1 at 90 for the oiless unit).
I can get the oilless unit mentioned earlier for $160.
Is 6dBa worth $249? I don't really have any feel for what
difference 6dBa makes. I'm basically just looking for a unit for this
project, and don't really care of it lasts a lifetime, just the next few
years of airplane building...
Does 20 gallon versus 28 gallon make much of a difference? Wow,
I really know next to nothing about air compressors... :-)
VS6231: 120v 147lbs 83dBa
Single stage, single cylinder, 2 Running HP, cast iron portable
20-gallon tank
Model: VS6231
Cast Iron single cylinder single stage pump - for durability
and long life
20 gallon horizontal ASME code tank - the most popular portable
tank size today
Unit made in the US - 2 year warranty - quality construction
backed by an extended warranty
Quieter operation than direct drive compressors - less noise
means you can work closer to the unit
Warranty: 2 Years
Approx. Retail-New Unit: $450.00
The VS6231, 2 Running HP Oil-Lubricated, Belt-Drive compressor has a
cast iron, single cylinder pump for extreme durability. The 20 Gallon
horizontal tank delivers 6.4/5.6 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI and the low RPM pump
promotes long life and quiet operation. The VS6231 has a maximum
pressure of 125 PSI.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
We use solidworks here, I don't know how to use it myself....I am impressed
with what the ME can do with it. If you have a specific question I could
get it ansered
Rene'
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group. Or more
important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I have a
question.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
Chuck Harrison of Composites Unlimited, strongly suggested I get involved
with Solidworks. We are doing a hybrid project together of a reduced drag
composite cowl for an M14P radial on yet another aircraft.... Not an RV-10
nor Kimball's Pitts. Chuck mentioned that CU did some initial work for VANS
on the setup of the new composite pieces. Seems that at our EAA Chapter 105
meeting last month, VAN mentioned that Ken Krueger would be designing their
new Light Sport project entirely on the computer. Knowing the heartburn
that came with the RV-10 doors and composite shell, coupled with the desire
by a few stalwart Experimental builders (hiding in the weeds) to insert
Continental six bangers in their 10s, I started knocking grey matter.
Seems VANS was impressed enough to buy licenses as well as send Ken and his
crew to Solidworks training for the software. They are finishing up this
week. The question for your engineers is "Does Solidworks have library
files on the M14P Radial, Eggenfellner Subaru, Crossflow Aero, Deltahawk
Diesel, Thielert turbo diesel, Continental 6 jug or Allison Turbine?". The
sky could be the limit if your answer is YES. It beats Autocad Inventor all
over the desktop for designing Firewall Forward and resolving temperature,
stress, serviceability and functional design.
Chuck runs the data files through Solidworks to a 5 axis CNC which can knock
out a prototype positive in short order. The mold comes as the next step.
They have done the Viperjet, Maverick TJ1200, CADCOR Chanute, Giles G202,
CAP 222 and Legend prototypes. A tour of the facility opened my eyes while
finishing A & P school a while back that our only limitation is passion,
time and of course $$. And just think, tomorrow begins SNF. My ear is to
the ground.
Is anyone else interested?
John
"Pushing the envelope till I see or feel the bruises"
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron Gillespie
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
Hi John:
As one of my duties in our engineering department I reviewed several
software packages 5-6 years ago. Solidworks was the one I settled on! I
don't use it regularly but my engineers do on a daily basis - we are on an
annual subscription service. The program is very robust and out performs
similar programs costing 4X . I have been pleased!
I monitor the groups but don't post a lot but felt I may be able to help out
a little here. Let me know if there are any specific questions and I will
see what I can find out.
Byron Gillespie
QB wings on order - starting on fuselage kit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group. Or more
important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I have a
question.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dorsey <lnc2bldr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
ia.net>
I use Solidworks 2003 on occasion. You won't find any Solidworks supplied
drawings for engines and most manufacturers are not using Solidworks for
their CAD stuff. I'd be curious to see what they would charge you for a CAD
drawing if they would even sell it. I work for a large turbine engine
manufacturer that is very protective of all engineering documents.
You can buy add-on packages for basic components to help speed up the
design process.
As far as the bundled FEA stress analysis tool (Cosmos), it is very basic
and won't handle any thermal transfer / flow (at least the 2003 version).
Good for designing brackets and comparing stress riser's of different
materials. You could import your drawings into Nastran , ANSYS, Fluent,
etc. for heat transfer / flows and more precise stress analysis computation.
Most guys I talk to like Pro/E better than Solidworks for complicated
mechanism design if that's where you are headed.
Bob
At 04:40 PM 4/12/05, you wrote:
>
>Chuck Harrison of Composites Unlimited, strongly suggested I get involved
>with Solidworks. We are doing a hybrid project together of a reduced drag
>composite cowl for an M14P radial on yet another aircraft.... Not an RV-10
>nor Kimball's Pitts. Chuck mentioned that CU did some initial work for VANS
>on the setup of the new composite pieces. Seems that at our EAA Chapter 105
>meeting last month, VAN mentioned that Ken Krueger would be designing their
>new Light Sport project entirely on the computer. Knowing the heartburn
>that came with the RV-10 doors and composite shell, coupled with the desire
>by a few stalwart Experimental builders (hiding in the weeds) to insert
>Continental six bangers in their 10s, I started knocking grey matter.
>
>Seems VANS was impressed enough to buy licenses as well as send Ken and his
>crew to Solidworks training for the software. They are finishing up this
>week. The question for your engineers is "Does Solidworks have library
>files on the M14P Radial, Eggenfellner Subaru, Crossflow Aero, Deltahawk
>Diesel, Thielert turbo diesel, Continental 6 jug or Allison Turbine?". The
>sky could be the limit if your answer is YES. It beats Autocad Inventor all
>over the desktop for designing Firewall Forward and resolving temperature,
>stress, serviceability and functional design.
>
>Chuck runs the data files through Solidworks to a 5 axis CNC which can knock
>out a prototype positive in short order. The mold comes as the next step.
>They have done the Viperjet, Maverick TJ1200, CADCOR Chanute, Giles G202,
>CAP 222 and Legend prototypes. A tour of the facility opened my eyes while
>finishing A & P school a while back that our only limitation is passion,
>time and of course $$. And just think, tomorrow begins SNF. My ear is to
>the ground.
>
>Is anyone else interested?
>
>John
>"Pushing the envelope till I see or feel the bruises"
>________________________________________
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron Gillespie
>Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 3:08 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
>
>Hi John:
>
>As one of my duties in our engineering department I reviewed several
>software packages 5-6 years ago. Solidworks was the one I settled on! I
>don't use it regularly but my engineers do on a daily basis - we are on an
>annual subscription service. The program is very robust and out performs
>similar programs costing 4X . I have been pleased!
>
>I monitor the groups but don't post a lot but felt I may be able to help out
>a little here. Let me know if there are any specific questions and I will
>see what I can find out.
>
>Byron Gillespie
>QB wings on order - starting on fuselage kit
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
>Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 4:48 PM
>To: ' (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)'
>Subject: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
>
>Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group. Or more
>important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I have a
>question.
>
>
>John W. Cox
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net> |
What are people doing for work tables? The EAA Ch 1000 tables seem
likely too small to me for the -10 at 5'. (I know putting them
together is a solution but is that ideal?)
Though I won't be starting on the kit till the house is complete in
(now likely) June, building tables is something I can possibly do ahead
of time and move them later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
I've got a Solidworks license. I'm using it to design my next project.
I'm certainly no expert with it since I only use it intermittently
between other projects but it's interface is tolerant of that. It will
seemingly do almost anything you could ask. What type of effectiveness
are you trying to guage?
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 3:48 PM
To: ' (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)'
Subject: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
=09
=09
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group.
Or more important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I
have a question.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Paul, I built these. A 3x8 and another 3x5. I think for now I am OK.
http://www.eaa72.org/tech/Table/Table.htm
I will send these to Matt. Maybe he can put it in the pics section so others
can find it easily.
Mani
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: RV10-List: Work tables
What are people doing for work tables? The EAA Ch 1000 tables seem
likely too small to me for the -10 at 5'. (I know putting them
together is a solution but is that ideal?)
Though I won't be starting on the kit till the house is complete in
(now likely) June, building tables is something I can possibly do ahead
of time and move them later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I started out thinking that a person really needed something more than 3x8' so
I built a 12x3' along a wall before starting the emp kit. It became clear when
working on the wings that a 3x8 with access to all sides was better. I'm now
moving the fuselage off that table and on to something low profile with castering
wheels to have better access to the interior. Bottom line: 3x8' is fine
for building any of the kit sections. It is very helpful to have another table/bench
to put plans/tools/supplies on.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Folbrecht
Subject: RV10-List: Work tables
What are people doing for work tables? The EAA Ch 1000 tables seem
likely too small to me for the -10 at 5'. (I know putting them
together is a solution but is that ideal?)
Though I won't be starting on the kit till the house is complete in
(now likely) June, building tables is something I can possibly do ahead
of time and move them later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
-0.33 ALL_TRUSTED Did not pass through any untrusted hosts
I just built 2 of the EAA-1000 2x5 tables. I think you are right, that they
are too small, but unless you are willing to buy 2 sheets of plywood, that's
the size you'll build. I modified the plans slightly to give a lip on each
end for easier clamping. I think they will be fine for much of the work,
but I am also building a 3x8, which goes up against the hanger wall under a
4x8 pegboard. If you're going to build a couple of small tables and don't
mind the extra sheet of plywood, I would definitely build bigger, if you
have the room. Maybe 3x6.
John Jessen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Paul,
I have three of the EAA 1000 tables, one strictly for power tools. All of them
are on wheels. I am almost doen with the wings and they have worked fine, I didn't
feel like re-engineering the wheel so I used them. I'm building in a standard
20 x 20 garage and wheel the tables around as needed. So far so good and
I have been able to keep one car in the garage (overnight) since I started, but
then I'm insanely organized some say to a fault ;). Of course that will change
when the fuse gets here. I also used Tim Olson wing stand which has helped
to keep the wings stored and it is also on wheels to move out of the way if needed.
Rick S.
4015
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
I am trying to design a modified composite cowl, design an improved engine
mount and not cook the composite on the exhaust stacks. Was wondering if
there is a source for engine dimensions to tackle the weight and arm issues
of a redesign? I know nothing of the library of existing files. Greg Cole
lives nearby for the aeronautical input.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
I've got a Solidworks license. I'm using it to design my next project. I'm
certainly no expert with it since I only use it intermittently between other
projects but it's interface is tolerant of that. It will seemingly do almost
anything you could ask. What type of effectiveness are you trying to guage?
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
I am trying to design a modified composite
cowl, design an improved engine mount and not cook the composite on the exhaust
stacks. Was wondering if there is a source for engine dimensions to
tackle the weight and arm issues of a redesign? I know nothing of the
library of existing files. Greg Cole lives nearby for the aeronautical
input.
John
From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Greg Young
12:18 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks
Licensees?
I've got a Solidworks license. I'm using
it to design my next project. I'm certainly no expert with itsince
Ionly use it intermittently between other projects but it's interface is
tolerant of that. It will seemingly do almost anything you could ask. What type
of effectiveness are you trying to guage?
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Paul,
I built the EAA tables with a few mods. They are 2X4 feet. 1: I too
made an overhang of about 1/2 inch on two edges for clamping. 2: On the
other two edges I attached a cleat so I can add extensions ( think leaves on
a dining table ) held on with drywall screws. This way the tables can be
modified to any length or width I need. Also the main tables are small
enough to move out of my workspace and transported easily. 3: Out of 2 X 8
wood I built a frame that is dimensioned so that it can be clamped between
the tables, rests on the floor, and holds the C-frame at the correct height
above the table top for dimpling. No need to build a dimpling table. I
place a piece of kitchen carpet scrap on the tables to hold the metal
shavings and keep from scratching the skins. 3: All of these pieces have
levelers on the legs from Woodcraft to account for uneven floors and
allowing me to level the table top. Again, all this easily transportable
which for me is important.....john
John Hasbrouck
40264
Wings on order
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com> |
Paul: I built two of the Chap 1000 tables, but made them 6 feet long
because it used all of the sheet of plywood more efficiently. 2x6 ft
tops, 2x4 ft end cutoff used for the lower shelf, plus another left over
2x4 from the scrap pile for the other table.
Putting two 2x6's end-to-end give one the 12 feet for the horiz stab.
As I didn't build wings (fast build lazy approach), I don't know if one
needs more bench for that.
Phil #40220 (just joined emp to fuse, gotta fit 18 feet in the garage!)
>From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
>Subject: RV10-List: Work tables
>RV10-List message posted by: Paul Folbrecht paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
>
What are people doing for work tables? The EAA Ch 1000 tables seem
likely too small to me for the -10 at 5'. (I know putting them
together is a solution but is that ideal?)
Though I won't be starting on the kit till the house is complete in
(now likely) June, building tables is something I can possibly do ahead
of time and move them later.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
Drill speed - 3000 rpm or 6000 rpm?
I have a choice to buy either.
I presumed faster is better, but I'm not sure,
so figured I would solicit some input... :-)
Thanks!
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: drill speed? |
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Drill speed - 3000 rpm or 6000 rpm?
> I have a choice to buy either.
> I presumed faster is better, but I'm not sure,
> so figured I would solicit some input... :-)
Just fyi, I went with the 3600 since it was smaller
and lighter (Sioux palm drill).
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
Netscape/7.1 (ax)
| Subject: | Re: drill speed? |
Dj Merrill wrote:
>
> Drill speed - 3000 rpm or 6000 rpm?
> I have a choice to buy either.
> I presumed faster is better, but I'm not sure,
> so figured I would solicit some input... :-)
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Dj
>
Actually, when drilling, slower is usually better. Less heat and
distortion...
--
Jeff
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
Solidworks is great with the fits and clearances stuff and all the general design
tasks. You can slice and dice the model to see anything you want. As someone
else mentioned, getting a source of models or libraries of engines could be
a problem. My project uses an M-14P. So far I've built a crude model of it by
importing a 3-view drawing and modeling over it. It's fine for layout and CG issues
but I'll have to get more detailed when I get to the mount and cowling.
I wouldn't plan on using the built in COSMOS for the mount stress analysis. It's
a lite version that only likes single parts, not assemblies. I plan on external
stress analysis for most parts. I bought SW planning to do the entire aircraft
in it. If you have access to it it should work great for your project but
it would be an expensive solution to buy for only that.
Regards,
Greg
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
I am trying to design a modified composite cowl, design an improved engine mount
and not cook the composite on the exhaust stacks. Was wondering if there is
a source for engine dimensions to tackle the weight and arm issues of a redesign?
I know nothing of the library of existing files. Greg Cole lives nearby
for the aeronautical input.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
I've got a Solidworks license. I'm using it to design my next project. I'm certainly
no expert with it since I only use it intermittently between other projects
but it's interface is tolerant of that. It will seemingly do almost anything
you could ask. What type of effectiveness are you trying to guage?
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
I built two of those tables and have found them to be very sturdy and useful.
The 5' length is better, in my opinion, because it allows one to change the
configuration as needed.
Regards,
Jay
Finishing up wings
From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Work tables
What are people doing for work tables? The EAA Ch 1000 tables seem
likely too small to me for the -10 at 5'. (I know putting them
together is a solution but is that ideal?)
Though I won't be starting on the kit till the house is complete in
(now likely) June, building tables is something I can possibly do ahead
of time and move them later.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
OK, I cann't help but to chime in. I have one 4X8 table that a friend built
for me in the 80's, I also have a workbench along the wall that is 2X8 that
I have my power tools on. I also have two standard folding tables I got
from Sam's that I move around as I see fit. The most versatile thing I got
and which helps me the most when I am by myself is an adjustable stand with
a ~10" roller on top. It worked great on the tailcone assembly which I am
almost done with.
I get my wing kit this month.......so my experience is limited, but this
setup worked great for me.
Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
Subject: RV10-List: Work tables
I built two of those tables and have found them to be very sturdy and
useful.
The 5' length is better, in my opinion, because it allows one to change the
configuration as needed.
Regards,
Jay
Finishing up wings
From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Work tables
What are people doing for work tables? The EAA Ch 1000 tables seem
likely too small to me for the -10 at 5'. (I know putting them
together is a solution but is that ideal?)
Though I won't be starting on the kit till the house is complete in
(now likely) June, building tables is something I can possibly do ahead
of time and move them later.
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: air compressor |
<425B3A45.1070000(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> <425B3CFA.1070301(at)MyRV10.com> <425C2C72.7040207(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
<425C4984.1080501(at)MyRV10.com>
In case anyone is curious, I made the decision and
ordered the air compressor today from Campbell Hausfeld.
I went with the VT6315 model, also sold under the
Husky brand name at Home Depot.
Cast iron, oil lubricated, 135 PSI max,
6.6/5.8 SCFM @ 40/90, 26 gallon, upright with wheels.
They claim 82dBa, which is the quietest one that I could
find that met the minimum specs. It will also do
120 or 240 volts which is a decent option to have.
$339 for a factory refurb unit if you order from them
direct, $56 s/h, 1 yr warranty (http://www.chpower.com/).
All in all I think I did okay, and I GREATLY
appreciate all of your help in making the selection.
Plus I've gained a great education about air compressors
in the last few days... *grin*
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
Hi John:
Looks like everyone has already chimed in with qualified responses. Like
said, I am not aware of any databases with that sort of info. Our use is
primarily for designing 3-D models for tooling build. We import a lot of
very complex aircraft data from engine builders (turbine blades and
vanes) that we in turn manufacture for the engine primes (GE, RR, Pratt,
etc..) one of our local tool shops imports the data and runs CNC
machines for the tooling build. Very good for that application. For a
FEA or heat transfer program, something like Pro-E or Unigraphics may be
a better match. We have done some 3-D solidification modeling through
our sister plant in Ohio - but the price for that type equipment is
probably 8X the actual Solidworks cost. Not a vary good payback unless
you are in the business.
Good luck investigating,
Byron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
I am trying to design a modified composite cowl, design an improved
engine mount and not cook the composite on the exhaust stacks. Was
wondering if there is a source for engine dimensions to tackle the
weight and arm issues of a redesign? I know nothing of the library of
existing files. Greg Cole lives nearby for the aeronautical input.
John
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Young
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
I've got a Solidworks license. I'm using it to design my next project.
I'm certainly no expert with it since I only use it intermittently
between other projects but it's interface is tolerant of that. It will
seemingly do almost anything you could ask. What type of effectiveness
are you trying to guage?
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net> |
Thanks for all the replies on this. I have a bit of thinking to do but
I'm leaning towards the 5' tables now for the reason you cite below. I
like the idea of putting them on wheels and I like the mods discussed.
[We'll see if I get the time in the next month to get on this. Another
idea I'm kicking around is getting my commercial cert done now -
doesn't look like a lot of work now that I have the instrument and the
required hours and after the complex endorsement I want to do anyway.]
Wishin' I was at SnF,
~Paul
Tail & Wing (Slow) kits ordered
On Apr 13, 2005, at 1:59 PM, Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
>
>
> I built two of those tables and have found them to be very sturdy and
> useful.
> The 5' length is better, in my opinion, because it allows one to
> change the
> configuration as needed.
>
> Regards,
> Jay
> Finishing up wings
>
>
> From: Paul Folbrecht <paul.folbrecht(at)veribox.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Work tables
>
>
>
> What are people doing for work tables? The EAA Ch 1000 tables seem
> likely too small to me for the -10 at 5'. (I know putting them
> together is a solution but is that ideal?)
>
> Though I won't be starting on the kit till the house is complete in
> (now likely) June, building tables is something I can possibly do ahead
> of time and move them later.
>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
~Paul Folbrecht
~PP-SEL-IA
~'79 C-152 N89795
~MWC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
I do have a license of SolidWorks. I don't know a whole lot about it, but I
have a good friend who does. What is your question and I will see what I
can find out.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group. Or more
important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I have a
question.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Solidworks Licensees? |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
What do you need on solid works? We use it here at Werner and have 20
seats. Let me know
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RV10-List: Solidworks Licensees?
Is anyone a software licensee for Solidworks on the RV-10 group. Or
more important, does anyone have knowledge of its effectiveness. I
have a question.
John W. Cox
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | additional items to order with empennage kit |
Hi all,
As I am getting ready to order my emp. kit for the -10, is there
anything else I should get with it that needs to be or should be
installed prior to closing it up? I am thinking of things like the tail
light / strobe, antennas, wiring, trim / autopilot actuators (those are
in the fuse on the -10 aren't they?) or anything else that one would
put in there for a IFR equipped -10 prior to buttoning up the skins...
Speaking of lights, are people using/happy with the "lighting kit 6"
that vans has on their accessories catalog? I'm pretty sure I 'm going
to go with the duckworks HID kit or something similar when i get to that
point for landing / taxi lights, but I havent really made up my mind on
position / strobe lights yet.
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: additional items to order with empennage kit |
James,
I ordered the tail strobe and enough wire and clamps to get it installed in the
rudder. You will need proseal for the trailing edges of the rudder and elevator.
You really can wait a while to order most stuff, the autopilot servo can wait
until just prior to joining the tailcone to the fuse. Most of the extra things
can wait until your ready to start working with the glass fairings. Might
want to order some opps rivets, they have an 1/8" body with a 3/32" head, other
than that I can't think of anything really pressing for at least a few months
of work. I'm sure others will have some input.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | additional items to order with empennage kit |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
James,
Just about everything expensive can be put off until the wing/fuselage kits. The
autopilot pitch servo installs in the tailcone but the mounting bracket is
in the fuselage kit. The roll servo installs in the wing. You can also hold
off on any antenna decisions until working on the fuselage kit. Seems like a
lot of folks (me included) are mounting the comm antenna(s) in the aft part of
the main cabin. Spacing there works out for two comms and the transponder can
go in the forward part of the tailcone - very accessible until after attaching
to the cabin. ELT antenna can be mounted at any time. Pitch trim servo and
associated hardware is included as a standard part of the kit.
The tail light/strobe is needed at the point when you decide to tackle the fiberglass
tips. Following the instructions, this will be near the end of the emp
kit assembly. Many of us just delayed that part with the plan of dealing with
all of the fiberglass at one time. I did them at the same time as the wingtips.
Things you should consider:
- static ports; you'll either need to get the Van's pop rivet style (they sell
a static system kit) or the slightly more elegant, but not necessarily more functional
ports from any of a number of sources. They typically require the hole
be enlarged and the port gets riveted to the side skins.
- Rudder cable exit fairings; optional, but very inexpensive and improves the look
a lot!
- Proseal for trailing edges.
- Fiberglass cloth/resin for when you tackle the tips. Standard kit has these
permanently attached to the tail surfaces so you'll want to install the tail strobe
and position light before attaching the rudder bottom.
Finally, I went with the Whelen System 6 kit from Van's and am very happy with
it. There are certainly other choices for position lights though, including at
least a couple that are using LEDs instead of halogen bulbs.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: additional items to order with empennage kit
Hi all,
As I am getting ready to order my emp. kit for the -10, is there
anything else I should get with it that needs to be or should be
installed prior to closing it up? I am thinking of things like the tail
light / strobe, antennas, wiring, trim / autopilot actuators (those are
in the fuse on the -10 aren't they?) or anything else that one would
put in there for a IFR equipped -10 prior to buttoning up the skins...
Speaking of lights, are people using/happy with the "lighting kit 6"
that vans has on their accessories catalog? I'm pretty sure I 'm going
to go with the duckworks HID kit or something similar when i get to that
point for landing / taxi lights, but I havent really made up my mind on
position / strobe lights yet.
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: drill speed? |
report
But don't you get more burrs with a slower drill? It was my understanding
that the optimal drill speed for thin aluminum was around 14,000 RPM.
Obviously only a machine shop can achieve such results but I always thought
the faster the better - at least in terms of burrs. I figure if you can deal
with the weight of the 6,000 RPM go for it. I went with the 3,600 Sioux
because it's much smaller and lighter.
Just my $.02
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: drill speed?
>
> Dj Merrill wrote:
>
>>
>> Drill speed - 3000 rpm or 6000 rpm?
>> I have a choice to buy either.
>> I presumed faster is better, but I'm not sure,
>> so figured I would solicit some input... :-)
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> -Dj
>>
>
> Actually, when drilling, slower is usually better. Less heat and
> distortion...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
I built 2 tables using the eaa plans, but use a solid core door for the
top (scrap from my father-in laws shop). I haven't used them yet but
they are very sturdy.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: additional items to order with empennage kit |
James,
Did you see this one from Tim.
"And I'll toss in a building tip. If you mess something up, and
have to order from Van's, buy a couple of lengths of the 2 or 3
popular sizes of aluminum angle. You'll be making a lot of stuff
out of them, and you'll probably mess one or two things up.
Now you'll have scrap. You'll also find it handy for things like
installing the Gretz pitot mount, beefing up the panel when you
cut the ribs a bit, and other odds and ends. May as well
get it early.
James Ochs wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I am getting ready to order my emp. kit for the -10, is there
> anything else I should get with it that needs to be or should be
> installed prior to closing it up? I am thinking of things like the
> tail light / strobe, antennas, wiring, trim / autopilot actuators
> (those are in the fuse on the -10 aren't they?) or anything else that
> one would put in there for a IFR equipped -10 prior to buttoning up
> the skins...
>
> Speaking of lights, are people using/happy with the "lighting kit 6"
> that vans has on their accessories catalog? I'm pretty sure I 'm
> going to go with the duckworks HID kit or something similar when i get
> to that point for landing / taxi lights, but I havent really made up
> my mind on position / strobe lights yet.
>
> Thanks,
> James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade... |
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This includes
some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable processors -
as well as a complete operating system upgrade from scratch. I hope to
have both the old system and the new system running at the same time to
minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but a
few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show up
on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then please
just try posting it again.
Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
to it as often as you like:
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
possible!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] Matronics Email Server Upgrade Complete! |
Dear Listers,
The upgrade of the Matronics Email Server can be considered complete at
this time. All known issues related to the upgrade process have been
resolved and email services are running normal. The Nightly Digest
processing has not yet been tested and will wait for tonight's update.
If you encounter any odd behavior with respect to the Matronics Email
Server over the next few days, please contact me via email at
dralle(at)matronics.com or if that fails try dralle(at)speakeasy.net.
Thanks to everyone for being patient through this arduous process of a
major system upgrade!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
At 12:37 PM 4/16/2005 Saturday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I will be upgrading the Matronics Email Server this weekend. This
>includes some hardware improvements - more memory, faster, more capable
>processors - as well as a complete operating system upgrade from
>scratch. I hope to have both the old system and the new system running at
>the same time to minimize the actual impact of the upgrade.
>
>Hopefully there will be little actual downtime during the transition, but
>a few posts may get lost in the shuffle. If you don't see your post show
>up on the List in the normal amount of time (plus a little bit), then
>please just try posting it again.
>
>Upgrading the Matronics Email Server operating system (from Redhat Linux
>7.2 to Redhat Linux WS 4) is a sizeable undertaking and requires a great
>deal of work to port all of the utilities, programs, and scripts over to
>the new system. As I've already mentioned, both the old and new systems
>will be on line at the same time, so interruption should be held to an
>absolute minimal. You might see a couple of odd test messages during the
>cut-over or other odd messages; please just ignore them.
>
>I have setup a new System Status Web Page that I will use to update List
>Members on the current status of the email and web systems. Please refer
>to it as often as you like:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
>
>
>Thank you for your continued support of the List Services at
>Matronics! Its your yearly Contributions that make these major upgrades
>possible!
>
>Best regards,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Wiring Exit Location |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
How are folks running to wire out to the rudder for the strobe and position lights?
The ideal location for the exit would seem to be at the bottom of the tailcone
however the tiedown hardware is located there.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Wiring Exit Location |
Bob,
I saw the second -10 at SnF last weekend and they ran the wires into the
tailcone just below the lower hinge bracket.
John Hasbrouck #40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
Hi all,
My RV-10 tail kit will be arriving here sometime on Wednesday 4/20.
I already received my tools, Alodine, built a table. I can't wait for it
to arrive.
Now I just need to figure out how to get started :)
-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
Jim,
Open the plans to page 1. That should get you started in good shape.
Very well written and illustrated.
John Hasbrouck
waiting for the wing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
Hmm... I thought I'd start at section 6, Vertical Stabilizer.. :)
I already have the plans for the tail.... And I scanned them in so I can
sneak peeks at them while at lunch..
This should be fun....
-Jim
John Hasbrouck wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Open the plans to page 1. That should get you started in good
> shape. Very well written and illustrated.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> waiting for the wing kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
Congratulations.
Getting started?
You will get to inventory the two boxes that arrive, then its
Open plans to page 1
Follow the directions!
HAVE FUN BUILDING!
Jim C
#40192
Fuel Tanks
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2005 19:01:17 -0400
Hi all,
My RV-10 tail kit will be arriving here sometime on Wednesday 4/20.
I already received my tools, Alodine, built a table. I can't wait for it
to arrive.
Now I just need to figure out how to get started :)
-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert <retiredpilot03-serv(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
Just follow the directions, more simple than the
plans I used to get with model planes, very well
illustrated. Just read them 2 or even 3 times
before you start drilling or riveting.
Robert
#343
--- James Hein wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
> My RV-10 tail kit will be arriving here
> sometime on Wednesday 4/20.
>
> I already received my tools, Alodine, built a
> table. I can't wait for it
> to arrive.
>
> Now I just need to figure out how to get
> started :)
>
> -Jim
>
>
>
>
> to browse
> Subscriptions page,
> Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | On the bandwagon |
Jim,
I'm about 3 weeks behind you. I ordered the tail kit at Sun-N-Fun this past
Friday, sorry didn't get to meet some others of you there, but I was with a
group and (even though I wanted to) couldn't spend ALL my time at the Van's
display....
Rob
Awaiting tail kit delivery ~10 May
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit arriving Wednesday!
Hi all,
My RV-10 tail kit will be arriving here sometime on Wednesday 4/20.
I already received my tools, Alodine, built a table. I can't wait for it
to arrive.
Now I just need to figure out how to get started :)
-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | For those sitting on the fence |
Hi all, just back from Sun & fun. Got there Thursday and made it STRAIGHT to
the RV 10. Both were there that day. OH BOY ! This was a treat. It looked
even better than I had imagined. Got inside and guess who was standing right
outside? Van himself. Jumped right out and snapped a pic with Van and the
RV10. Well long story, but had to wait until Sunday afternoon for a ride in
it. Gus took me up on a clear day that it was. My impression:
I had no trouble getting in. John Ward my friend and a colleague was with me
and rode in the back taking pics. After we got belted in we were off
taxi-ing pretty fast and hardly felt the pace or the ruts on the taxiway.
Then after a short call to the impromptu tower, we were off. I really
expected to be running along a bit as it was a warm day and with 3 of us,
but the plane was airborne after a VERY short run, I mean it was short! But
then he had 2 clicks of the flaps in. Still... We then proceeded to climb at
about 1500 FPM and around 120 MPH. Very cool. Even with the nose up
visibility over the glare shield was fantastic. Then leveled off and Gus let
me have her. The stick felt very natural. I had the hang of it in about 4 to
6 seconds. I could not believe how responsive the plane was. All I had was
my thumb and forefinger holding the stick. Unlike the Cessnas that I fly,
this was great - inputs were followed by an immediate response with hardly a
lag time. Anyway, it was slow flight time and I was a little apprehensive,
given the stick and a new plane..., was a piece of cake. The stalls were
just a `buzz, no drop at all but only buffeting and loss of alt. Even a
stall in a turn was a non event. And I did em all! After a bit of cruise
flight and some crazy turns and stuff, I flew it back to the Plant city
airport for a right downwind and into final when Gus took her in for a good
Xwind touch down. Very cool.
I am glad I am building this beauty. John, my friend who owns a Bonanza V
tail is convinced this flies much better.
And finally for those of you guys procrastinating Get with it. Call and
order the tail. The time you spend chewing on it, you would spend throwing
stuff together and have VS and Rudder finished.
Met a lot of the builders here and there. Since this was my first visit to a
major event, I was busy with the vendors. Met with all of them GRT, Chelton
inodyn, Eggenfellner, tru track, advanced flight, Oregon Aero, etc, etc and
had long talks with them. Also with Randy who was just great and shared a
wealth of info about his experiences in building and how he made choices.
Overall, an extremely productive time.
Mani
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | For those sitting on the fence |
>Hi all, just back from Sun & fun. Got there Thursday and made it STRAIGHT
>to
>the RV 10. Both were there that day. OH BOY ! This was a treat. It looked
>even better than I had imagined. Got inside and guess who was standing
>right
>outside? Van himself. Jumped right out and snapped a pic with Van and the
>RV10. Well long story, but had to wait until Sunday afternoon for a ride in
>it. Gus took me up on a clear day that it was. My impression:
>I had no trouble getting in. John Ward my friend and a colleague was with
>me
>and rode in the back taking pics. After we got belted in we were off
>taxi-ing pretty fast and hardly felt the pace or the ruts on the taxiway.
>Then after a short call to the impromptu tower, we were off. I really
>expected to be running along a bit as it was a warm day and with 3 of us,
>but the plane was airborne after a VERY short run, I mean it was short! But
>then he had 2 clicks of the flaps in. Still... We then proceeded to climb
>at
>about 1500 FPM and around 120 MPH. Very cool. Even with the nose up
>visibility over the glare shield was fantastic. Then leveled off and Gus
>let
>me have her. The stick felt very natural. I had the hang of it in about 4
>to
>6 seconds. I could not believe how responsive the plane was. All I had was
>my thumb and forefinger holding the stick. Unlike the Cessnas that I fly,
>this was great - inputs were followed by an immediate response with hardly
>a
>lag time. Anyway, it was slow flight time and I was a little apprehensive,
>given the stick and a new plane..., was a piece of cake. The stalls were
>just a `buzz, no drop at all but only buffeting and loss of alt. Even
a
>stall in a turn was a non event. And I did em all! After a bit of cruise
>flight and some crazy turns and stuff, I flew it back to the Plant city
>airport for a right downwind and into final when Gus took her in for a good
>Xwind touch down. Very cool.
>I am glad I am building this beauty. John, my friend who owns a Bonanza V
>tail is convinced this flies much better.
>And finally for those of you guys procrastinating Get with it. Call and
>order the tail. The time you spend chewing on it, you would spend throwing
>stuff together and have VS and Rudder finished.
>Met a lot of the builders here and there. Since this was my first visit to
>a
>major event, I was busy with the vendors. Met with all of them GRT, Chelton
>inodyn, Eggenfellner, tru track, advanced flight, Oregon Aero, etc, etc and
>had long talks with them. Also with Randy who was just great and shared a
>wealth of info about his experiences in building and how he made choices.
>Overall, an extremely productive time.
>
>Mani
Mani,
Glad you enjoyed the ride! If you flew any of the two seat RV's, your
definition of "responsive" would step up another notch. The -10 is sweet,
groovy and predictable, that's for sure. It's the neatest four seater I've
ever flown. It will never surpass my -8 in max grin generation, but totally
crushes anything affordable in the CessnaPiperBeech world.
I was also amazed at how short the takeoff roll was when I flew it at Las
Cruces on a hot day with three aboard. It just levitates...like an elevator
ride....fifth floor, ladies undergarments...woo hooo off we go!
I hope everyone at the show had fun. I was finishing the almost year long
annual on my plane! The annual that takes an annual to do. Phooey!
'nite
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James E. Clark" <james(at)nextupventures.com> |
| Subject: | Impressions after flying the RV10 |
While at SnF, April 2005, I got a chance to fly the RV10. What follows are a
few impressions.
(I will try to be brief and to the point).
Load = Me + Mike Seager + (RV6'er) Ken + small amount of baggage + almost
full fuel.
Space . significant as everyone has mentioned. I had sat in the mock-up and
later in the real thing (at OSH) but this was better.
Engine smooth . as expected for the 6 cylinder.
Take-off roll MUCH SHORTER than I expected (with ~ 15 degrees of flaps {my
guess})
Climb-out ~ 1500 FPM from sea level at much warmer than standard day
(Florida around noon . don't remember the temp)
Handling feels "like an RV" . appropriate for the obvious weight.
Control forces seem to be between the RV6/RV7 and the outer edges of the
RV9. ("9 Flyers" will relate to this)
Control forces are expectedly much lighter than Beechcraft A36, Cessna 210
as well as the Piper Saratoga. (I know, these are 6-place . I was thinking
speed range).
Control forces are much lighter (to me) than the Cirrus SR22 and the Lancair
Columbia 300.
No excessive trim required. Some required as expected due to size, speed and
our loading.
Handles well at slow speeds (75 MPH) and high speeds (175 MPH). Yes, it can
fly SLOWER and FASTER.
Control forces seem well balanced . no major deviations in steep turns
(other than those induced by the pilot :-) )
Nice plane. As one had come to expect from Vans.
My only comment that was not praise was "I wish someone would donate Vans a
set Bose X's . that would make the experience complete."
James
. now if I could just magically convert the Piper to a 10 overnight ..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Impressions after flying the RV10 |
I've flown in the -10 twice, once up front and once in the back. I agree
with what's been posted, but wanted to add that both times I flew it or in
it I noticed a bit of a tail waggle when you get some turbulence. Anyone
else notice that? Almost wonder if a yaw damper might not be called for
(albeit expensive).
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James E. Clark
Subject: RV10-List: Impressions after flying the RV10
While at SnF, April 2005, I got a chance to fly the RV10. What follows are a
few impressions.
(I will try to be brief and to the point).
Load = Me + Mike Seager + (RV6'er) Ken + small amount of baggage + almost
full fuel.
Space . significant as everyone has mentioned. I had sat in the mock-up and
later in the real thing (at OSH) but this was better.
Engine smooth . as expected for the 6 cylinder.
Take-off roll MUCH SHORTER than I expected (with ~ 15 degrees of flaps {my
guess})
Climb-out ~ 1500 FPM from sea level at much warmer than standard day
(Florida around noon . don't remember the temp)
Handling feels "like an RV" . appropriate for the obvious weight.
Control forces seem to be between the RV6/RV7 and the outer edges of the
RV9. ("9 Flyers" will relate to this)
Control forces are expectedly much lighter than Beechcraft A36, Cessna 210
as well as the Piper Saratoga. (I know, these are 6-place . I was thinking
speed range).
Control forces are much lighter (to me) than the Cirrus SR22 and the Lancair
Columbia 300.
No excessive trim required. Some required as expected due to size, speed and
our loading.
Handles well at slow speeds (75 MPH) and high speeds (175 MPH). Yes, it can
fly SLOWER and FASTER.
Control forces seem well balanced . no major deviations in steep turns
(other than those induced by the pilot :-) )
Nice plane. As one had come to expect from Vans.
My only comment that was not praise was "I wish someone would donate Vans a
set Bose X's . that would make the experience complete."
James
. now if I could just magically convert the Piper to a 10 overnight ..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
James Hein wrote:
> Now I just need to figure out how to get started :)
Rivet #1, followed by rivet #2, followed by... *wink*
Congrats!!!!!
I just received a pile of tools from Cleveland.
I don't even know what half of this stuff is!
Learning is part of the reason I am doing this, though,
and I expect I'm going to earn this education!
Hmmm, a Master's in airplane kit construction,
only $100,000 and ten years of your life! *grin*
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Won't be much figuring to it - just start on page 1. The plans are excellent and
literally take you by the hand for each step.
Welcome!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit arriving Wednesday!
Hi all,
My RV-10 tail kit will be arriving here sometime on Wednesday 4/20.
I already received my tools, Alodine, built a table. I can't wait for it
to arrive.
Now I just need to figure out how to get started :)
-Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Tail kit arriving Wednesday! |
Or the way I started. Rivet 1, rivet 2, rivet 3.......drill out rivet 1,
rivet 2, rivet 3..... suddenly drilling out a rivet was not a concern for
me anymore.
Rene'
40322
tailcone complete, wings due in two weeks.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tail kit arriving Wednesday!
James Hein wrote:
> Now I just need to figure out how to get started :)
Rivet #1, followed by rivet #2, followed by... *wink*
Congrats!!!!!
I just received a pile of tools from Cleveland.
I don't even know what half of this stuff is!
Learning is part of the reason I am doing this, though,
and I expect I'm going to earn this education!
Hmmm, a Master's in airplane kit construction,
only $100,000 and ten years of your life! *grin*
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill
deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu
"TSA: Totally Screwing Aviation"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Wiring Exit Location |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Bob, it seams that the factory runs it right through the tie down right below the
hinge for the rudder. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Wiring Exit Location
How are folks running to wire out to the rudder for the strobe and position lights?
The ideal location for the exit would seem to be at the bottom of the tailcone
however the tiedown hardware is located there.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Wiring Exit Location |
Interesting - I may delay installing it until I see somebody else's installation.
Thanks to you and John for responses.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Wiring Exit Location
Bob, it seams that the factory runs it right through the tie down right below the
hinge for the rudder. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Wiring Exit Location
How are folks running to wire out to the rudder for the strobe and position lights?
The ideal location for the exit would seem to be at the bottom of the tailcone
however the tiedown hardware is located there.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long) |
An AeroCraft layout for Alex Deminicus' 10 is on VansAirforce at this link
<http://vansairforce.net/delete_eventually/deminicus-rv-3-30-051%5D.pdf>
The panel is packed. Take out the second mortgage.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long) |
Flying the RV-10 is more fun that having your wisdom teeth pulled. Almost no
doubt about that.
> On top of that, I was supposed to go up there a month ago and wound up
> having to have my wisdom teeth extracted instead, then sun-n-fun took
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long) |
>In fact, I'd be willing to wager that there's still a fair number of RV-10 builders
that haven't taken the ride...
I am one of those who has not taken "The Ride"
Jim Combs
#40192
Fuel Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long) |
I am also one of them........going to Oregon next, hoping to get a ride.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long)
>In fact, I'd be willing to wager that there's still a fair number of RV-10
builders that haven't taken the ride...
I am one of those who has not taken "The Ride"
Jim Combs
#40192
Fuel Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long) |
Although my panel is a long way out, this is very, very close to what I have
put together at this point as well. (I'd go with the 430 over the 480 and
perhaps a different UPSAT nav/com). Not surprising, I guess, given the
popularity of all of these components.
With that, I'd be really interested in seeing the numbers from Aerocraft, if
you'd be comfortable posting them. I agree that their panel looks great and
will most likely be outsourcing my panel.
> We'll have to talk. Our panels are going to be outfitted VERY
> similarly. Grand Rapids 3 screen, GNS-480, MX-20, PS 8000, GTX330,
> SL30, Quadrant, backup 2-1/4" ADI/Altimeter/airspeed/turnNbank.
> B&C alternator most likely. Planning on Aerosport engine.
> Would love to talk to you about how you chose them.
> If you want to hook up via phone, let me know and I'll give you
> my number.
> > still did some research on the panel. I am planning a three screen
> > Grand Rapids, TruTrak autopilot, Garmin 430, PS 8000 audio, GTX330, SL
> > 40, throttle quadrant, AOA, backup 2 1/4" altimeter, airspeed, and
> > Trutrak ADI.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Has anyone who is close to actually ordering their panel components compared
in-depth the BMA Sport to the GRT and would like to comment?
Rob Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | -10 external power. |
All,
First, I'd like to thank Randy for taking the time at SnF to talk with
me while I drooled over the Aero Crafters panels. It was a pleasure meeting
you Randy and my best wishes for your first flight. A thought occurred to
me and I'd mentioned it to Randy, is anyone making plans for external power
on their -10? With all the gee-whiz electronic navigators, PFD, MFD, etc.
there will be a need to update databases, input flight plans and simply
learn all the capabilities of the units. Seems an external power plug would
be convenient, much easier than connecting a battery charger when you want
to just sit in the plane and play. What do you all think?
BTW The Grand Rapids units update with a thumb drive connecting to a USB
port on the back of the displays. Will need to run a USB port to the panel
front for ease of use.
Also, I talked to Van at SnF about support for the IO-360 Cont. Not
going to happen. Not enough interest. I asked if they might supply an
engine mount or blue prints at least for the mount and was told no. FWIW
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Weight & Balance |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Sounds like a need to have a unique Operating Limitation with associated
placard to jettison first the baggage, then passengers one at a time as
necessary on downwind before trying a "Low Fuel Landing". Seriously
Scott, your calculated W&B along with Randy's (Mountain High O2 system)
and other who follow will have a large and important impact on
construction choices. Battery choice and location as well as placement
of the servos and optional equipment could make a huge difference. It
will be interested to see the numbers on the ECI IO-540 kit in a VANS
configuration once released. One comment Randy and Tim have both made
is the lack of Elevator response at the far limit when having only Front
Seat Loading. The Lancair IV found that the W&B moved appreciably with
Gear Extended v. Gear Retracted. Least that is not a factor with the
additional safety of a 10.
TDT, your calculations once Scott gives you data would be invaluable on
this subject.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight & Balance
I can do that tonight when I get home. Van did a good job showing all
the extremes. To exceed the aft CG limit, Van had 5 gallons of gas in
the plane, 4 people and 100 lbs of baggage. He was showing you an
example of being OK for takeoff but not within limits during landing.
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Weight & Balance |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
Don't forget the TFT screens in the back seats for the DVD player.
I'm not super concerned about it though. With 60 gallons of gas and
four people, I'm sure someone will need a bathroom break within and hour
or two.
What I am considering right now though is using the MT prop which is
about 20 lbs lighter than the Hartzell, and then move one of my two
batteries to the firewall.
That should give me a good CG for one to three people. I may have add
weight to the front though if I get much heavier than that in the rear.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight & Balance
Sounds like a need to have a unique Operating Limitation with associated
placard to jettison first the baggage, then passengers one at a time as
necessary on downwind before trying a "Low Fuel Landing". Seriously
Scott, your calculated W&B along with Randy's (Mountain High O2 system)
and other who follow will have a large and important impact on
construction choices. Battery choice and location as well as placement
of the servos and optional equipment could make a huge difference. It
will be interested to see the numbers on the ECI IO-540 kit in a VANS
configuration once released. One comment Randy and Tim have both made
is the lack of Elevator response at the far limit when having only Front
Seat Loading. The Lancair IV found that the W&B moved appreciably with
Gear Extended v. Gear Retracted. Least that is not a factor with the
additional safety of a 10.
TDT, your calculations once Scott gives you data would be invaluable on
this subject.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight & Balance
I can do that tonight when I get home. Van did a good job showing all
the extremes. To exceed the aft CG limit, Van had 5 gallons of gas in
the plane, 4 people and 100 lbs of baggage. He was showing you an
example of being OK for takeoff but not within limits during landing.
Scott Schmidt
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long) |
> I spent some time talking with lots of builders and got three quotes
> from other companies as well. Most engine builders really like to up
> the compression ratio and trick out the engine as much as possible. For
> me, I wanted a super reliable engine that I could fly across the
> Atlantic Ocean. That meant and IO-540 with 8.5:1 compression (stock)
I'm with you. In addition to the possibly reliability issues, there is the
reduced TBO that comes with higher compression. That translates directly into
increased operating costs, obviously.
I won't be crossing the Atlantic but I do want an engine that is never going to
cause a forced landing and one that is going to make a 2,000 hour TBO.
> Bart has mentioned that IO-540 orders are going through the roof because
> of the F-1 Rockets and RV-10's. It seems like he has already raised his
> prices 1-2K already in the last couple of months.
Bummer. I know they were quoting a base of $30K for their IO-540s a few months
ago. I hope it isn't going to go up too much in the next year or two before I
need an engine.
Re: the 360 - I was one of the builders interested in the lower-horsepower
engine for economy's sake but I happen to have changed my mind. I have been
flying a nice 2001 Skyhawk SP lately and my experience with its climb ability
at gross at moderate altitudes has convinced me that I want more than 210
normally-aspirated HP in the 10. Flying IFR regularly now, with its generally
higher altitudes, has opened my eyes a bit. Going up to 7,000 msl (I think
about 8,000 density alt) a few weeks ago, with 3 pax, near gross, the SP
struggled to make 400fpm toward the top. That's not good enough. With a gross
of about 2400lb with it's 180hp, we could expect a 2700-lb gross RV-10 with
210hp to perform quite similarly. Not good enough!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: -10 External Power |
I plan to add an external power jack. See pdf here:
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3a
It will be primarily for starting or charging the battery when the master switch
is engaged.
William
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: -10 External Power |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Nice to see you made it home ok William. My wife and I really enjoyed dinner with
you and all of the other 10'ers. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William Curtis
Subject: RV10-List: RE: -10 External Power
I plan to add an external power jack. See pdf here:
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3a
It will be primarily for starting or charging the battery when the master switch
is engaged.
William
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
Why not mount a plastic tank with a small pump both fore and aft. (Windshield
washer bottle / pump x2). One could pump a non flamable fluid to either end of
the aircraft to help with CG limits?
Comments?
Jim Combs
#40192
Fuel Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: My Sun-N-Fun Experience |
>Nice to see you made it home ok William. My wife and
>I really enjoyed dinner with you and all of the other 10'ers.
> Randy
Thanks Randy,
It was great meeting you and the rest of the VXers also. I made it home about
1:30 AM Sunday morning after an interesting weekend.
After my demo flight in Plant City on Saturday, I got a ride back over to Lakeland.
Later that evening prior to departure from Plant City, I noticed a problem
with my nose gear door. While fixing it, a Bonanza suffered an engine failure
on takeoff and crashed. Fortunately none of the six passengers had a scratch.
The plane however was totaled. Nose gear collapsed, main gear pushed up
and crumpled both wings-not a pretty sight-but its only aluminum.
I departed Plant City on Saturday and spent the night in Jacksonville. I had asked
a friend to once again check Lost and Found on Sunday for my phone and thankfully,
they had it there. He lives about 60 miles west of Jacksonville in
Lake City, so I decided to wait until he returned from Lakeland since he had also
picked up the correct parts for my nose gear door.
I Departed Lake City Sunday evening for home. Stopped in Darlington County for
gas, then on to 47N. Somewhere over Richmond, VA the High/Low fuel pressure
light on my Electronics International fuel totalizer started flashing. Switching
to pressure mode on the Fuel Totalizer, the fuel pressure was VERY high and
climbing. The stock mechanical fuel flow gage, which is really a pressure gage,
was normal however and there was no change in the engine operation. I told
the controller of my problem and requested clearance to W96 to check on the
problem. He asked if I wanted to alert emergency services. I responded negative
since my mechanical indicator was reading normal and it was only the electronic
indicator which was reporting a problem.
I landed at W96 and found a light pole to park under and began to investigate.
No fuel smell, no leaking fuel out of the cowling. Removed cowling and verified
that no fuel was leaking anywhere. With the engine off, the electronic pressure
indicator was still indicating around 90 psi. Confident that this was
just a fuel pressure transducer malfunction, I put everything back together, did
an extensive run-up and then departed for home. It was quite an interesting
weekend.
William
#40237
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill McCoy <hoverlover9797(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
How about a header fuel tank forward and aft, or for those who plan to run 2 batteries
why not have a mounting tray in the engine compartment and another in
the tail? quick disconnects for the battery so that you can move it for the mission?
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: -10 external power. |
G'day all,
Quoting John Hasbrouck :
> Seems an external power plug would
>
> be convenient, much easier than connecting a battery charger when you want
> to just sit in the plane and play. What do you all think?
I plan to do exactly that. The external power connector I plan to use will be
able to provide ground power,
charge the battery and also jump start the engine if necessary. I discussed this
recently on the Matronics
RV-List (1-2 weeks ago) and several people provided different ways of doing this.
Do a quick search and
you will find some other ideas.
After some thought and consultation with various people I also plan to do things
a little differently. I had
initially planned to use the Piper-style plug sold by ACS, however I have been
warned this is quite heavy.
The idea I have adopted is to mount one of these:
http://www.narva.com.au/Terminals_12.html
The 175amp plugs are $37 each as a store near me and have more than enough capacity.
I plan to mount
this on the baggage compartment bulkhead and plug it in through the baggage compartment
door,
eliminating unsightly plugs on the outside of my aircraft (I don't plan to have
external antennas, so having
an external socket seemed a shame!). By having the external cable terminate with
two jumper lead-style
clips I have a setup that I can use to charge, power and start the aircraft anywhere.
As far as wiring goes, I plan to use Electric Bob's wiring layout found here:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf
Like anything to do with this hobby of ours, ask 10 different people and you will
get 10 different ideas.
This is just mine and is probably worth exactly what you paid for it!!!!
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: My Sun-N-Fun Experience |
products.
William, glad you found your cell. Now I can call and expect you to answer. Hope
we didn't drop you off too far away from camp after dinner. My daughter thinks
of you when she sees anything yellow.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: William Curtis
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Cc: Randy(at)abros.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 6:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: My Sun-N-Fun Experience
>Nice to see you made it home ok William. My wife and
>I really enjoyed dinner with you and all of the other 10'ers.
> Randy
Thanks Randy,
It was great meeting you and the rest of the VX'ers also. I made it home about
1:30 AM Sunday morning after an interesting weekend.
After my demo flight in Plant City on Saturday, I got a ride back over to Lakeland.
Later that evening prior to departure from Plant City, I noticed a problem
with my nose gear door. While fixing it, a Bonanza suffered an engine failure
on takeoff and crashed. Fortunately none of the six passengers had a scratch.
The plane however was totaled. Nose gear collapsed, main gear pushed up and
crumpled both wings-not a pretty sight-but it's only aluminum.
I departed Plant City on Saturday and spent the night in Jacksonville. I had
asked a friend to once again check Lost and Found on Sunday for my phone and thankfully,
they had it there. He lives about 60 miles west of Jacksonville in
Lake City, so I decided to wait until he returned from Lakeland since he had also
picked up the correct parts for my nose gear door.
I Departed Lake City Sunday evening for home. Stopped in Darlington County for
gas, then on to 47N. Somewhere over Richmond, VA the High/Low fuel pressure
light on my Electronics International fuel totalizer started flashing. Switching
to pressure mode on the Fuel Totalizer, the fuel pressure was VERY high and
climbing. The stock mechanical fuel flow gage, which is really a pressure gage,
was normal however and there was no change in the engine operation. I told
the controller of my problem and requested clearance to W96 to check on the problem.
He asked if I wanted to alert emergency services. I responded negative
since my mechanical indicator was reading normal and it was only the electronic
indicator which was reporting a problem.
I landed at W96 and found a light pole to park under and began to investigate.
No fuel smell, no leaking fuel out of the cowling. Removed cowling and verified
that no fuel was leaking anywhere. With the engine off, the electronic pressure
indicator was still indicating around 90 psi. Confident that this was just
a fuel pressure transducer malfunction, I put everything back together, did
an extensive run-up and then departed for home. It was quite an interesting weekend.
William
#40237
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Alexander Technical Center - Starting the Building Process |
Today I will be traveling to Alexander Technical Center
<http://www.buildtofly.com/> to build my tail kit. Two weeks of
dedicated building and I hope to come home with a completed tail
secton. It has been a while. I ordered my kit back in March and it has
been at the builders assistance center for a few weeks. I also ordered
the quick build wings and fuse and they are expected to ship in August.
Tomorrow I will officially be an RV10 builder.
Larry Rosen
#356
Medford, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <quinn.talley(at)cox.net> |
<4267850B.7010102(at)comcast.net>
Process
| Subject: | Re: Alexander Technical Center - Starting the Building Process |
Hi Larry,
I did my RV-10 Tail at Alexander Technical Center last October. Great
value, Great guys. You have made an excellent choice. Jacob Biang and, if
you're lucky, Mike Crowe will be helping/instructing you. They are
fantastic. Take good note on the tooling you like. Mike put together a
very useful list - ask about it.
Consider taking the guys to the BBQ place -- it is fantastic.
Quinn Talley
40295
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Alexander Technical Center - Starting the Building
Process
>
> Today I will be traveling to Alexander Technical Center
> <http://www.buildtofly.com/> to build my tail kit. Two weeks of
> dedicated building and I hope to come home with a completed tail
> secton. It has been a while. I ordered my kit back in March and it has
> been at the builders assistance center for a few weeks. I also ordered
> the quick build wings and fuse and they are expected to ship in August.
> Tomorrow I will officially be an RV10 builder.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Medford, NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | My Sun-N-Fun Experience (Long) |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Duckworks lights for the 10 |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
In case you all have not heard....
Dan Lloyd,
the new RV-10 kits are completed and ready for order now!
I don't have the website updated yet, but any orders I receive before
the update will be at the same prices as for the RV-4/6/7/8 kits.
We will carry the 55w, 100w, and HID for the RV-10, but once the website
is updated the HID will only be available thru Van's, with a small price
increase, due to the increased parts count in the new kits.
The 55w and 100w will continue to be available on our website for direct
order.
Note that the kits are basically the same as for the other RVs, the
primary difference being an improved lens mounting method that will
insure a tighter fit to the skin, and eliminates holes in the lens which
were an occasional source of cracking.
Sincerely,
Duckworks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Duckworks lights for the 10 |
As per your suggestion, I've decided to go with the standard wing tip lights
for the -10 to be used as flashers, with HID for taxi, etc. Do you suggest
one or two HID? I've not seen them in use.
John Jessen
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
In case you all have not heard..
Dan Lloyd,
the new RV-10 kits are completed and ready for order now!
I don't have the website updated yet, but any orders I receive before the
update will be at the same prices as for the RV-4/6/7/8 kits.
We will carry the 55w, 100w, and HID for the RV-10, but once the website is
updated the HID will only be available thru Van's, with a small price
increase, due to the increased parts count in the new kits.
The 55w and 100w will continue to be available on our website for direct
order.
Note that the kits are basically the same as for the other RVs, the primary
difference being an improved lens mounting method that will insure a tighter
fit to the skin, and eliminates holes in the lens which were an occasional
source of cracking.
Sincerely,
Duckworks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Duckworks lights for the 10 |
John
I posted this so everyone would know Duckworks had them avail, you might
want to send to them directly as I do not know your answer.
Sorry for the confusion, I had asked them to email me when the kits were
avail, and I thought everyone else would like to know they are in
production now.
As for HID, I did find a very cheap source on Ebay, for the bulbs and
Ballast, you would just have to make your own mount.
Let me know if you are interested
Dan
40269
_____
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
As per your suggestion, I've decided to go with the standard wing tip
lights for the -10 to be used as flashers, with HID for taxi, etc. Do
you suggest one or two HID? I've not seen them in use.
John Jessen
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 8:05 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
=09
=09
In case you all have not heard....
Dan Lloyd,
the new RV-10 kits are completed and ready for order now!
I don't have the website updated yet, but any orders I receive
before the update will be at the same prices as for the RV-4/6/7/8 kits.
We will carry the 55w, 100w, and HID for the RV-10, but once the
website is updated the HID will only be available thru Van's, with a
small price increase, due to the increased parts count in the new kits.
The 55w and 100w will continue to be available on our website
for direct order.
Note that the kits are basically the same as for the other RVs,
the primary difference being an improved lens mounting method that will
insure a tighter fit to the skin, and eliminates holes in the lens which
were an occasional source of cracking.
Sincerely,
Duckworks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
Has anyone considered the IOF-550 from TCM?
Full FADEC and 310bhp!
Interfaces with several EFIS systems for full engine diagnotisics included.
Similar weight & installation to IO-540 Lyc.
The (T)IO(F)-550 is used in:
Cirrus SR22
Lancair Columbia 300, 350, 400; ES, IV, IVP, Legacy.
Mooney Ovation
Cessna Fastlane STC
Express 2000
Adam 500
Beech Bonanza, Baron
+
Engine of the (near) future?
ERic--
RV-8A
RV-10 in planning stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I recommend you spend the money and fly the 10 first. You will find that it has
all of the power you need. Not to mention having to develop your own exhaust
system and cowl. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Subject: RV10-List: IOF-550 ?
Has anyone considered the IOF-550 from TCM?
Full FADEC and 310bhp!
Interfaces with several EFIS systems for full engine diagnotisics included.
Similar weight & installation to IO-540 Lyc.
The (T)IO(F)-550 is used in:
Cirrus SR22
Lancair Columbia 300, 350, 400; ES, IV, IVP, Legacy.
Mooney Ovation
Cessna Fastlane STC
Express 2000
Adam 500
Beech Bonanza, Baron
+
Engine of the (near) future?
ERic--
RV-8A
RV-10 in planning stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Van was specifically asked about TCM IO-470/520/550 engines at OSH last year.
His response was that it would take a lot of engineering to make it work and "it
wasn't in the cards".
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Eric Parlow
Subject: RV10-List: IOF-550 ?
Has anyone considered the IOF-550 from TCM?
Full FADEC and 310bhp!
Interfaces with several EFIS systems for full engine diagnotisics included.
Similar weight & installation to IO-540 Lyc.
The (T)IO(F)-550 is used in:
Cirrus SR22
Lancair Columbia 300, 350, 400; ES, IV, IVP, Legacy.
Mooney Ovation
Cessna Fastlane STC
Express 2000
Adam 500
Beech Bonanza, Baron
+
Engine of the (near) future?
ERic--
RV-8A
RV-10 in planning stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I have the finishing kit W&B examples. I will have an Odyssey 680 on the right
firewall as the primary cranking battery. Should it need help I have an Odyssey
925 that can be employed in parallel or independently. With the Hartzell prop
I expect to be forward of the forward limit but what experimental aircraft does
not fly around with about 25 pounds of tools in the baggage area? Another
option is use of a flight planning program that calculates both takeoff and landing
W&Bs. Additionally if you normally fly in the forward end of the envelope
pitch control will be very stable which may obviate the need for a pitch control
autopilot. With regards to external power, the battery aft should be relatively
easy to access for a jump or charge. If you must have a external power
plug then pay attention to the Cessna schematics for correct wiring of external
power including the extra contactors. Cessna sent some airplanes into the field
some years back where the prop/starter rotated upon insertion of the external
power plug. My C177RG was one of them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Duckworks lights for the 10 |
Yeah, the D2 series have the igniter integrated into the ballas, and
then high voltage wires to the bulb from the ballast. The D1 series
have the ballast separate, with the igniter usually included in a little
box at the base of the bulb. The benefit to this is that you don't
have the high voltage wires that are likely to cause EMI
(Interference) with things like radios, stringing between the igniter
and the bulb. D2S bulbs would then be much more noisy to the rest
of your system....how extreme, I know not. From the looks of the
photos of the Duckworks bulbs...and from running across a picture
of the same ballast on the net, it looks like the Duckworks systems
are the D1S type. So that makes them "better" than what I'd get
if I got some D2S(R) stuff that I have found on Ebay.
To me, I'm trying to avoid 2 things.....Power draw, and Interference.
And Add long life. The power draw is my main reason for using LED's
for NAV lights....along with the long life. The power draw and
light output lead me to HID's. But, to do it "right", I'm hoping
to go with D1S bulbs for the HID's to prevent interference.
My quest started here: Follow the links.
http://www.aerovisions.com/hid/hid_aircraft_kits.html#conversionkits
There's a TON of good info here:
http://faqlight.carpassion.info/hl-hid-bulbs.htm
Follow more links from that page.
And here's another:
http://www.suvlights.com/faq-qa.htm#6000K%20and%208000K%20D2S%20bulbs
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> Tim they have a converter that is made to turn a D2S or R into an H7
> which means it will sit in a regular headlight socket, IE duckworks fog
> light or you can pick up a fog lap kit at auto store for $30.
> The ballast I found is for a D2 S or R, do you know the diff between a
> D1 or D2?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
> Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2005 2:52 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
>
> Dan,
>
> Your Ebay source....is that for D1S or D2S Bulbs? I've found from
> research that what you really want is D1S if possible. I'm going
> to be talking to Don from Duckworks tonight to hopefully find out
> which version his bulbs are. If they're D1S, then they're a
> pretty good deal. I did find D1S bulbs, ballast, and wiring
> for a total of about $355 brand new today, (no lens) but then you still
> need the duckworks kit to mount it in...which puts it at over $425.
> My only reservation is that I'd prefer not to use the round PAR36 lamps,
>
> but something rectangular....which would force me to buy my lamps
> elsewhere and then make them work.
>
> Would be interested to see what your source is though...
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>>John
>>I posted this so everyone would know Duckworks had them avail, you
>
> might
>
>>want to send to them directly as I do not know your answer.
>>Sorry for the confusion, I had asked them to email me when the kits
>
> were
>
>>avail, and I thought everyone else would like to know they are in
>>production now.
>>As for HID, I did find a very cheap source on Ebay, for the bulbs and
>>Ballast, you would just have to make your own mount.
>>Let me know if you are interested
>>Dan
>>40269
>>
>>
>
>
>>*From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *John
>
> Jessen
>
>>*Sent:* Thursday, April 21, 2005 11:32 AM
>>*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>*Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
>>
>>As per your suggestion, I've decided to go with the standard wing tip
>>lights for the -10 to be used as flashers, with HID for taxi, etc. Do
>
>
>>you suggest one or two HID? I've not seen them in use.
>>
>>John Jessen
>>
>>
>
>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
>
> *Lloyd,
>
>> Daniel R.
>> *Sent:* Thursday, April 21, 2005 8:05 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Duckworks lights for the 10
>>
>> In case you all have not heard....
>>
>> Dan Lloyd,
>> the new RV-10 kits are completed and ready for order now!
>> I don't have the website updated yet, but any orders I receive
>> before the update will be at the same prices as for the RV-4/6/7/8
>> kits.
>>
>> We will carry the 55w, 100w, and HID for the RV-10, but once the
>> website is updated the HID will only be available thru Van's, with
>
> a
>
>> small price increase, due to the increased parts count in the new
>
> kits.
>
>> The 55w and 100w will continue to be available on our website for
>> direct order.
>> Note that the kits are basically the same as for the other RVs,
>
> the
>
>> primary difference being an improved lens mounting method that
>
> will
>
>> insure a tighter fit to the skin, and eliminates holes in the lens
>> which were an occasional source of cracking.
>>
>> Sincerely,
>> Duckworks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Folbrecht <paulfolbrecht(at)yahoo.com> |
To put it mildly, holy crap! I wonder if any lawsuits resulted from that gaff.
> contactors. Cessna sent some airplanes into the field some years back where
> the prop/starter rotated upon insertion of the external power plug. My C177RG
> was one of them.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Ok, after a 3 week hiatus (damn day job sending me out of town) I get to
finally work on finishing up my HS. So after drilling more than a
couple rivets, anyone have any tips for riveting the inside nose ribs to
the skins by yourself?
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352
N403SS
Working on HS - 63 hours total
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| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Looks like you should have enough battery power to almost go without an alternator!
Seriously, what is your rationale for a PC-680 and also a PC-925 instead
of a second PC-680?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: W&B
I have the finishing kit W&B examples. I will have an Odyssey 680 on the right
firewall as the primary cranking battery. Should it need help I have an Odyssey
925 that can be employed in parallel or independently. With the Hartzell prop
I expect to be forward of the forward limit but what experimental aircraft does
not fly around with about 25 pounds of tools in the baggage area? Another
option is use of a flight planning program that calculates both takeoff and landing
W&Bs. Additionally if you normally fly in the forward end of the envelope
pitch control will be very stable which may obviate the need for a pitch control
autopilot. With regards to external power, the battery aft should be relatively
easy to access for a jump or charge. If you must have a external power
plug then pay attention to the Cessna schematics for correct wiring of external
power including the extra contactors. Cessna sent some airplanes into the field
some years back where the prop/starter rotated upon insertion of the external
power plug. My C177RG was one of them.
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| Subject: | RE: HS Nose Ribs |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Careful and slow... My tool kit came with a mushroom rivet set that has
rubber around the outer edges that makes it a lot easier because it
doesn't slip off the rounded edge as easy. I've done the bulk of my kit
solo.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: HS Nose Ribs
Ok, after a 3 week hiatus (damn day job sending me out of town) I get to
finally work on finishing up my HS. So after drilling more than a
couple rivets, anyone have any tips for riveting the inside nose ribs to
the skins by yourself?
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352
N403SS
Working on HS - 63 hours total
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| Subject: | rv10 quick build |
| From: | "Schawang, Darrin" <SchawangD(at)macequipment.com> |
What is a realistic build time for a RV-10 w/ quickbuild wings and fuselage? The
say that the quickbuild wings can be ready in a weakend and a week of evenings.
How much time is left on the fuselage? After that what is the realistic
time involved to complete?
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| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS Nose Ribs |
Michael,
Don't rush it. Spend a lot of time experimenting with with the HS
different positions until you've got the best access your going to get
and then find a way to clamp it in that position. I've got quite a
few smilies from pulling the trigger before I was relaxed and
comfortable with how I was set up to rivet. I've also found that I'm
much more likely to screw up with the gun in my left hand and the
bucking bar in my right... your mileage may vary...
And if you really can't reach the thing properly on your own, wait for
some help. You'll beat yourself up every time you look at the smilies
for your lack of patience (if you're anything like me).
Jeff Carpenter
40304
224 hours, final assembly of the elevators
On Apr 21, 2005, at 2:14 PM, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
> Ok, after a 3 week hiatus (damn day job sending me out of town) I get
> to
> finally work on finishing up my HS. So after drilling more than a
> couple rivets, anyone have any tips for riveting the inside nose ribs
> to
> the skins by yourself?
>
> Michael Sausen
> RV-10 #352
> N403SS
> Working on HS - 63 hours total
>
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| Subject: | rv10 quick build |
2200 hours slow build 1700 hours quick build. These are complete numbers including
April 04, 2005 - April 21, 2005
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