RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ag
May 12, 2005 - May 19, 2005
allows delivery to be a bolt on propeller assembly. Minimum blade diameter is
68 inches.
Price is $6,399 plus shipping and any applicable taxes.
13" diameter spinner assembly set for 1 1/2" cowl spacing installed on propeller.
No cost option: Spinner color - White, Red, Black, Grey, Yellow or left in primer
only.
"Hi-Glo" option - $450 (The "Hi-Glo" option gives the Kevlar/Epoxy spinner the
appearance of a polished aluminum (or chrome) spinner dome.)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Custom Aircraft Propeller - A division of Less Drag Products, Inc.
www.lessdrag.com <http://www.lessdrag.com/>
(805) 795-5377
________________________________________________________________________________
26, 2003) at
05/12/2005 01:28:44 PM,
Serialize complete at 05/12/2005 01:28:44 PM
I can add to the empathy pool . I needed to have a hip replaced in Feb,
and so i put off ordering my kit until after the recovery. the 1st
attempt was botched, the second revision was fine, but an infection set it
during the surgery, I'm back to about 75% and that's good enough to get
started, I ordered the empcone last week #406 and tools this week.
Yesterday, went down to the airport manager and put my name on the hanger
waiting list (16 months, which is just about what I expect it to take me,
as I'm retired and can put as much time in each day as I like). Can't wait
to get started
Deems Davis
#406 itching
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airspace incursion |
I second your motion on that issue.
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Standley
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: airspace incursion
NOT funny. Please don't use this list for that sort of thing.
Thank you
Roger #40291
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 5:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: airspace incursion
I propose that the US government offer a Z prize similar in nature to the X
prize that Mr. Allen offered for the civilian space project. The Z prize would
be for depositing a 5 pound payload at the White House. Of course the only entrants
to the contest should be loyal US citizens whose entries must be non destructive
and entrants must be immune from prosecution. An award of perhaps
$1 million tax free would ensure plenty of participation. There are lots of ways
to accomplish same and do not include the use of light aircraft. The HS bureaucrats
are running the asylum inside the beltway. Fiy aman Allah.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: plane flew into restricted airspace |
If you aren't to worried about making it back, A LOT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)Avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
>
> What's the useful load of a C-152, compared to a SUV?
>
> TDT
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
>
>
> Unless it was loaded with explosives like the car bombs that are going off
> in IRAQ that destroy whole buildings.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)Avidyne.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 8:02 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> I don't know what's sadder - two guys who can't navigate, and didn't
> notice
> this huge city below them, or evacuating the Capital because a C-152 was
> on
> its way. What would a -152 to if it hit the Capital? Make a soot mark
> and
> slide down the side?
>
> TDT
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Thu 5/12/2005 8:26 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> Well said!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AI Nut
> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 7:16 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> Be very careful to assign blame to one's selves when the actual problem
> lies with over reaction from the security Nazi's.
>
> David
>
>
> son hoang wrote:
>
>>
>>C 152 w/ 2 men on board violated no fly zone
>>White House and Congress evacuated
>>red level alert
>>stock market dived because of the security scare
>>
>>this incident made me angry, frustrated and very sad
>>I just shook my head in disbelief
>>there was much over reaction to the real threat
>>but if we GA pilots keep doing this we will lose any freedom we have to
> fly
>>who do we have to blame but ourselves ( or a few rotten ones among us)
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
>>To:
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 12:05 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Mufflers on Rv's
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: plane flew into restricted airspace |
I had flown my last plane at almost 800 lbs over gross and that would equate
to a bunch of explosives.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)Avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
>
> What's the useful load of a C-152, compared to a SUV?
>
> TDT
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
>
>
> Unless it was loaded with explosives like the car bombs that are going off
> in IRAQ that destroy whole buildings.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)Avidyne.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 8:02 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> I don't know what's sadder - two guys who can't navigate, and didn't
> notice
> this huge city below them, or evacuating the Capital because a C-152 was
> on
> its way. What would a -152 to if it hit the Capital? Make a soot mark
> and
> slide down the side?
>
> TDT
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Thu 5/12/2005 8:26 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> Well said!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AI Nut
> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 7:16 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> Be very careful to assign blame to one's selves when the actual problem
> lies with over reaction from the security Nazi's.
>
> David
>
>
> son hoang wrote:
>
>>
>>C 152 w/ 2 men on board violated no fly zone
>>White House and Congress evacuated
>>red level alert
>>stock market dived because of the security scare
>>
>>this incident made me angry, frustrated and very sad
>>I just shook my head in disbelief
>>there was much over reaction to the real threat
>>but if we GA pilots keep doing this we will lose any freedom we have to
> fly
>>who do we have to blame but ourselves ( or a few rotten ones among us)
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
>>To:
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 12:05 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Mufflers on Rv's
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | plane flew into restricted airspace |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Check out the latest at www.aero-news.net . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
I had flown my last plane at almost 800 lbs over gross and that would equate
to a bunch of explosives.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)Avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
>
> What's the useful load of a C-152, compared to a SUV?
>
> TDT
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 10:59 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
>
>
> Unless it was loaded with explosives like the car bombs that are going off
> in IRAQ that destroy whole buildings.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)Avidyne.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 8:02 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> I don't know what's sadder - two guys who can't navigate, and didn't
> notice
> this huge city below them, or evacuating the Capital because a C-152 was
> on
> its way. What would a -152 to if it hit the Capital? Make a soot mark
> and
> slide down the side?
>
> TDT
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Thu 5/12/2005 8:26 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> Well said!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AI Nut
> Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 7:16 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
>
> Be very careful to assign blame to one's selves when the actual problem
> lies with over reaction from the security Nazi's.
>
> David
>
>
> son hoang wrote:
>
>>
>>C 152 w/ 2 men on board violated no fly zone
>>White House and Congress evacuated
>>red level alert
>>stock market dived because of the security scare
>>
>>this incident made me angry, frustrated and very sad
>>I just shook my head in disbelief
>>there was much over reaction to the real threat
>>but if we GA pilots keep doing this we will lose any freedom we have to
> fly
>>who do we have to blame but ourselves ( or a few rotten ones among us)
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
>>To:
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 12:05 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Mufflers on Rv's
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | plane flew into restricted airspace |
152 guys are at fault - just like any other violation of airspace. But
I don't recall being chased down by F-16s, wrestled to the ground upon
landing, and national exposure on the news being the penalty for that
either ...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
-->
I don't think they reacted soon enough to 9-11 So I would rather they
over
react than under react. So I guess there damned if they do and damned if
they don't, wouldn't you say?
But if your saying the 152 guys aren't at fault when they entered
restricted
air space, and they created a violation, then who is? We may not agree
with
the rules but we had better follow them if we all want to keep flying as
freely as we do. I've flown in other counties and trust me we've got the
best damned system going out there, bar none, even with its warts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "AI Nut" <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: plane flew into restricted airspace
>
> Be very careful to assign blame to one's selves when the actual
> problem
> lies with over reaction from the security Nazi's.
>
> David
>
>
> son hoang wrote:
>
>>
>>C 152 w/ 2 men on board violated no fly zone
>>White House and Congress evacuated
>>red level alert
>>stock market dived because of the security scare
>>
>>this incident made me angry, frustrated and very sad
>>I just shook my head in disbelief
>>there was much over reaction to the real threat
>>but if we GA pilots keep doing this we will lose any freedom we have
>>to
>>fly
>>who do we have to blame but ourselves ( or a few rotten ones among us)
>>
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Bob Hodgson" <bob(at)hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
>>To:
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 12:05 PM
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Mufflers on Rv's
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | airspace incursion |
I 3rd it, but it was kind of funny...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: airspace incursion
I second your motion on that issue.
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger <mailto:taildragon(at)msn.com> Standley
Subject: Re: RV10-List: airspace incursion
NOT funny. Please don't use this list for that sort of thing.
Thank you
Roger #40291
----- Original Message -----
From: David <mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net> McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: airspace incursion
I propose that the US government offer a Z prize similar in nature to
the X prize that Mr. Allen offered for the civilian space project. The Z
prize would be for depositing a 5 pound payload at the White House. Of
course the only entrants to the contest should be loyal US citizens
whose entries must be non destructive and entrants must be immune from
prosecution. An award of perhaps $1 million tax free would ensure
plenty of participation. There are lots of ways to accomplish same and
do not include the use of light aircraft. The HS bureaucrats are running
the asylum inside the beltway. Fiy aman Allah.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
How about a new topic: How about them Red SOX!!!!
It's a testament to Van's kits that we have time to discuss tangential issues instead
of puzzling over confusing plans, etc . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jdalton77
Subject: RE: RV10-List: airspace incursion
I 3rd it, but it was kind of funny...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: airspace incursion
I second your motion on that issue.
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger <mailto:taildragon(at)msn.com> Standley
Subject: Re: RV10-List: airspace incursion
NOT funny. Please don't use this list for that sort of thing.
Thank you
Roger #40291
----- Original Message -----
From: David <mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net> McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: airspace incursion
I propose that the US government offer a Z prize similar in nature to the X prize
that Mr. Allen offered for the civilian space project. The Z prize would be
for depositing a 5 pound payload at the White House. Of course the only entrants
to the contest should be loyal US citizens whose entries must be non destructive
and entrants must be immune from prosecution. An award of perhaps $1 million
tax free would ensure plenty of participation. There are lots of ways to
accomplish same and do not include the use of light aircraft. The HS bureaucrats
are running the asylum inside the beltway. Fiy aman Allah.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | good tool supplier... |
Hi All,
Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was "yes,
I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes on the
phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for how many
/ what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable set holder.
They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own squeezers
as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
anything you need for riveting ;)
I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this point I
would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the market
for tools.
Their website is http://clearairtools.com
James
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: good tool supplier... |
James, I recently purchased a pneumatic squeezer without an adjustable set
holder. Could you send the recommendations on how many washers to use as
spacers for the different size rivets??? Also, I don't have any of the
washers but does anybody know their specs (can they be found locally at a
hardware store or are they aviation specific)???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
> rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
> payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
> familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was "yes,
> I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes on the
> phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
> explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for how many
> / what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable set holder.
>
> They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own squeezers
> as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
> including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
>
> They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
> anything you need for riveting ;)
>
> I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this point I
> would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the market
> for tools.
>
> Their website is http://clearairtools.com
>
> James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | good tool supplier... |
Any washers will do as long as they have the right diameter for the shaft of
the tool. What he said was that he made a list of the materials and sizes
of rivets that he ran into as he was building the plane. With the RV-6 he
said the list was fairly short... i.e. spar to skin or doubler to spar, or
whatever. For each of those he found what size rivet went there. He made a
board with a set of nails on it for each of the different materials. Once
he got a rivet driven properly with a set of washers, when he was done with
that section he put the washers on the nail that went with that material
rivet combination. After the first rivet for each case, he then had it ready
whenever he ran across that combination again. He also said that it would
be impossible to give a good list of what those are because we are building
a different plane, so the materials are different and that the washer
tolerances are terrible so that any washers you might buy won't match up
with what he had. He used a micrometer to ensure that the rivets were set
properly. Basically you want to try to set it in increments so that you
don't overdrive.
While this doesn't make for an easy list or answer, it is a very good idea,
and shouldn't take too long to work out.
For the adjustable sets, he said that they are coming out with one that is
the reverse of what the other manufactures are doing. The other guys make
the set so that the female threads are on the die side and it leaves a very
thin walled set, which can be problematic in the tandem squeezers. The new
set they will be coming out with has the female threads on the tool side and
allows the sidewalls to be thicker. He said they will be out in July
sometime. He also said that once you get the above setup worked out with
the washers, you probably wont care about an adjustable set, but they are
going to sell them anyway because everybody asks for them ;)
HTH,
James
#40400
About 2 hours from finishing the VS - tomorrow ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
James, I recently purchased a pneumatic squeezer without an adjustable set
holder. Could you send the recommendations on how many washers to use as
spacers for the different size rivets??? Also, I don't have any of the
washers but does anybody know their specs (can they be found locally at a
hardware store or are they aviation specific)???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
> rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
> payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
> familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was "yes,
> I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes on the
> phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
> explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for how many
> / what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable set holder.
>
> They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own squeezers
> as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
> including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
>
> They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
> anything you need for riveting ;)
>
> I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this point I
> would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the market
> for tools.
>
> Their website is http://clearairtools.com
>
> James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: good tool supplier... |
26, 2003) at
05/13/2005 01:52:41 AM,
Serialize complete at 05/13/2005 01:52:41 AM
fyi Cleaveland tools sells an adjustable set holder that you should be
able to use on your squeezer.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=SNSHA45
Deems Davis
emp 40406
"Bill and Tami Britton"
Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
05/12/2005 08:37 PM
Please respond to
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To
cc
Subject
Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
James, I recently purchased a pneumatic squeezer without an adjustable set
holder. Could you send the recommendations on how many washers to use as
spacers for the different size rivets??? Also, I don't have any of the
washers but does anybody know their specs (can they be found locally at a
hardware store or are they aviation specific)???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
> rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
> payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
> familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was "yes,
> I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes on the
> phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
> explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for how many
> / what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable set
holder.
>
> They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own squeezers
> as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
> including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
>
> They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
> anything you need for riveting ;)
>
> I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this point I
> would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the market
> for tools.
>
> Their website is http://clearairtools.com
>
> James
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd3.ruraltel.net
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: good tool supplier... |
Yeah, I know. I just have to bring myself to spend another $65 for it. I'm sure
it will happen but I thought I might try the washer idea first.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: ddavis@virtual-corp.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
fyi Cleaveland tools sells an adjustable set holder that you should be able to
use on your squeezer.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberSNSHA45
Deems Davis
emp 40406
"Bill and Tami Britton"
Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
05/12/2005 08:37 PM Please respond to
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To
cc
Subject Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
James, I recently purchased a pneumatic squeezer without an adjustable set
holder. Could you send the recommendations on how many washers to use as
spacers for the different size rivets??? Also, I don't have any of the
washers but does anybody know their specs (can they be found locally at a
hardware store or are they aviation specific)???
TIA
Bill Britton
RV-10 Emp #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 5:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
> rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
> payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
> familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was "yes,
> I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes on the
> phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
> explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for how many
> / what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable set holder.
>
> They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own squeezers
> as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
> including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
>
> They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
> anything you need for riveting ;)
>
> I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this point I
> would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the market
> for tools.
>
> Their website is http://clearairtools.com
>
> James
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: good tool supplier... |
<002a01c557bb$ed011860$0500000a@britton>
You'll like having the adjustable set holder. Nice to be quickly
able to adjust height and be nice and precise as to how much
squeeze you want.
Tim
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Yeah, I know. I just have to bring myself to spend another $65 for it.
> I'm sure it will happen but I thought I might try the washer idea first.
>
> Bill Britton
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* ddavis@virtual-corp.net
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, May 13, 2005 12:52 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
>
> fyi Cleaveland tools sells an adjustable set holder that you should
> be able to use on your squeezer.
>
> http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=SNSHA45
>
>
> Deems Davis
>
> emp 40406
>
>
> *"Bill and Tami Britton" >*
> Sent by: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
>
> 05/12/2005 08:37 PM
> Please respond to
> rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> To
>
> cc
>
> Subject
> Re: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> James, I recently purchased a pneumatic squeezer without an
> adjustable set
> holder. Could you send the recommendations on how many washers to
> use as
> spacers for the different size rivets??? Also, I don't have any of the
> washers but does anybody know their specs (can they be found locally
> at a
> hardware store or are they aviation specific)???
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Emp #40137
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 5:28 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: good tool supplier...
>
>
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Just got off the phone with clear air tools. I bought one of their
> > rebuilt tandem squeezers off of ebay and called them to finish up the
> > payment. I asked the gentleman who answered the phone if he was
> > familiar with the particular model I bought and his response was
> "yes,
> > I'm the one who rebuilt it". He then spent the next 10 minutes
> on the
> > phone with me answering questions I had and (he's an RV-6 offender)
> > explaining some of the techniques he used to set up a table for
> how many
> > / what size washers to use since it doesn't have an adjustable
> set holder.
> >
> > They apparently manufacture their yokes and rebuild their own
> squeezers
> > as well. They have a one year warranty on rivet guns and squeezers,
> > including rebuilt ones and also including return shipping.
> >
> > They have a pretty limited catalog, but they do have pretty much
> > anything you need for riveting ;)
> >
> > I'll let you all know how the tool itself turns out, but at this
> point I
> > would highly recommend doing business with them if you are in the
> market
> > for tools.
> >
> > Their website is http://clearairtools.com
> >
> > James
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on
the wingtips and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans
call for it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange
outboard (inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on
fiberglass and I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I
cannot switch the ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and
use a squeezer to rivet it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the
aileron, so I can't imagine it would make a lot of difference aesthetically
or aerodynamically. Van's said that it would not make any difference
structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
I have one thought,
As much as we hate pop rivets, a hard rivets swells in the hole as it is
being driven. In fiberglass the swelling is almost and often can be the
start of a good crack. The pop rivets are mostly a clamping force use some
good goo between the fiberglass and the rib and pop away knowing the pop
rivets are there just to hold the thing in place wile the goo sets up. Like
the idea of the reverse rib! Would make it easy to see just how good the
pop rivets are doing.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on
the wingtips and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans
call for it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange
outboard (inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on
fiberglass and I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I
cannot switch the ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and
use a squeezer to rivet it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the
aileron, so I can't imagine it would make a lot of difference aesthetically
or aerodynamically. Van's said that it would not make any difference
structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
Solid rivets in composite parts are usually not a good idea. When the rivet expands
in a metal part it actually cold works the hole improving its fatigue life.
It is actually yielding and setting up residual tensile stresses around
the perimeter of the hole which improve the fatigue life.
If a solid rivet is used in a composite part there is a tendency for the expanding
rivet to damage the perimeter of the hole as the composites do not yield like
metal does, they simply fail. Thus you could end up with failed fibers around
the perimeter of the hole which is usually not a good thing. I would be much
more comfortable using the hollow (blind) rivets in composites as the expansion
force is much smaller than that of solid rivets.
Niko
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on the wingtips
and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans call for
it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange outboard
(inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on fiberglass and
I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I cannot switch the
ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and use a squeezer to rivet
it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the aileron, so I can't imagine
it would make a lot of difference aesthetically or aerodynamically. Van's said
that it would not make any difference structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
We used the "soft" rivets (AN426A) when dealing with fiberglass surfaces. "Normal"
AN426AD rivets have a more than double tensile strength of the "A". We have
250+ hrs and four years, no cracks or pull outs thus far. Go to page# 94 in
the ACS catalog for more details. They were used on the hinge attachments to the
cowl. We "glued" the hinges with epoxy resin at the same time we set the soft
rivets and then covered the hinge with 'glass & resin after the rivet/glue
was set up. We used them to mount nutplates also. They do squeeze with a lot less
force (and less than the pressure required in "pop-rivets") and we used the
hand squeezers wherever possible (less material stress than gun & bucking bar).
KABONG
(NOTE: message body was "trimmed" and in this case there was not "D0 N0t Arch1ve"
(spelling) as I think this should be part of the archives BUT since the original
post is also in the archive I trimmed the redundant parts.
----- Original Message -----
From: Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtips
Solid rivets in composite parts are usually not a good idea. When the rivet
expands in a
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
that.
My 2 cents as usual...
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
Personally, I did the inside of the skin. I'm not using alodine, but a
similar process from sanchem which uses a non-toxic permagnate and
sealer instead of the alodine and primer. I'd hate to have to replace
any of the parts due to corrosion. i just did the first half of
riveting the VS skin to the frame and I think drilling out, or cutting
and patching and then replacing the skin due to corrosion would just be
an unpleasant experience ;) I've even been debating doing the outside
of the skin with the permagnate because it is supposed to be highly
corrosion resistant and a good base for primer. Or maybe I'll just do
the normal primer and paint thing on the outside. I don't know yet.
ADvice welcome ;)
James
#40400
2 hours left to go on the VS
James Hein wrote:
>
> Hey all!
> After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
> for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I
> have returned to conquer the VS!
>
> Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
> Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the
> skin. I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for
> now...) before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
>
> What does everyone else think?
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
Stein, do you cover the alclad skins with an epoxy primer?
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
that.
My 2 cents as usual...
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
Jim, I spray the acid prep from a spry bottle and rub it around with a
scotch pad - green. Wash and spray the alodine. Sometimes use a roller
(paint foam) to wet the area over and over for about 5 min. Then use the
AKZO primer.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters.....
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
No reason you can't switch them Jesse. Just make sure you swap sides if you change
them. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working on the wingtips
and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib. The plans call for
it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip with the flange outboard
(inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of hammering rivets on fiberglass and
I hate using pop rivets. Does anybody see any reason why I cannot switch the
ribs from right to left and have the flange inboard and use a squeezer to rivet
it in? That is how the outboard rib is on the aileron, so I can't imagine
it would make a lot of difference aesthetically or aerodynamically. Van's said
that it would not make any difference structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
I've heard there are some decent rattle
can Self Etching Primers. Anyone know of
a good source where I can do some research, and
possible product sources in the Raleigh, NC area?
I'd like to at least evaluate the possibility,
primer-wars aside...
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Root Connector |
Randy,
I think I remember from the old Yahoo groups you mentioning the part
number for the connector you use at the wing root. But, alas I cannot
find it in the archives. Go figure.
Looks like something I want to do, so if you get a chance, could you
post the part number?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AOA installation |
| From: | "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport)
system. Was it easier to install before riveting the leading edge
together, after riveting but before attaching to the wing, or after it's
completely installed? Also, did you install an access panel similiar to
the one called out for Van's stall warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
I like many people did prime my 1st RV, but like the same may people haven't
on my next RV. I just alodine the rivet lines or anywhere else I scratch,
drill, polish, etc.. I think you'll find putting the primer on doesn't hurt
anything, it just adds weight, time, and money to cover up something that is
already protected by the alclad. That being said, if you remove the alclad
you need to cover it with something!
Also, instead of using messy buckets/bins/tanks for the alodine (which
others have pointed out to be somewhat toxic), it's now pretty popular just
to buy one of those nifty "Alodine Pens", which looks like a giant felt tip
marker, and contains Alodine in it. No messy dipping, rinsing, disposal of
waste, etc... Just run the pen over the rivet lines or the part you need to
cover, let it dry and you're done. The alodine pens have been used for years
at the airlines, boeing, the military, NASA, etc......
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
Stein, do you cover the alclad skins with an epoxy primer?
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
that.
My 2 cents as usual...
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
Masters.....
Hey all!
After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
returned to conquer the VS!
Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
What does everyone else think?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing Root Connector |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
The AMP connectors were supplied by www.Aerocraftparts.com. I don't know the part number but Tony can supply you with that and should have them in stock. Also Tim bought them for his wings from some other mail order place and I am sure he can send you the info. They supplied the connectors with bulkhead side on the wing. You can look at my photos and see the plate I made to hold the fitting. I think I would put the bulkhead fitting on the fuse not the wing. As it turned out other than making the bracket to hold the bulkhead fitting I really liked the way the wing/fuse connection came put. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Root Connector
Randy,
I think I remember from the old Yahoo groups you mentioning the part
number for the connector you use at the wing root. But, alas I cannot
find it in the archives. Go figure.
Looks like something I want to do, so if you get a chance, could you
post the part number?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AOA installation |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Look at my photos on Tim's site. I showed how I ran the tubing. I installed the
AOA just before paint. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Droopy Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: AOA installation
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport) system. Was
it easier to install before riveting the leading edge together, after riveting
but before attaching to the wing, or after it's completely installed? Also,
did you install an access panel similiar to the one called out for Van's stall
warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi Masters..... |
Where can you get the Alodine pens from?
Larry
Stein Bruch wrote:
>
>I like many people did prime my 1st RV, but like the same may people haven't
>on my next RV. I just alodine the rivet lines or anywhere else I scratch,
>drill, polish, etc.. I think you'll find putting the primer on doesn't hurt
>anything, it just adds weight, time, and money to cover up something that is
>already protected by the alclad. That being said, if you remove the alclad
>you need to cover it with something!
>
>Also, instead of using messy buckets/bins/tanks for the alodine (which
>others have pointed out to be somewhat toxic), it's now pretty popular just
>to buy one of those nifty "Alodine Pens", which looks like a giant felt tip
>marker, and contains Alodine in it. No messy dipping, rinsing, disposal of
>waste, etc... Just run the pen over the rivet lines or the part you need to
>cover, let it dry and you're done. The alodine pens have been used for years
>at the airlines, boeing, the military, NASA, etc......
>
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 1:35 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>
>Stein, do you cover the alclad skins with an epoxy primer?
>
>Mani Ravee, MD
>Indianapolis, KUMP
>#40339. N528AR
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 1:01 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>
>Just alodine the rivet lines and leave the rest alone! The alclad on the
>rest of the skins will suffice, and if you put a layer of alodine over the
>rivet lines where you've drilled, c/s and will rivet, that takes care of
>that.
>
>My 2 cents as usual...
>
>Cheers,
>Stein.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 12:24 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi
>Masters.....
>
>
>Hey all!
> After being kidnapped (by my employer) and being out of the country
>for a week and a half to fix a problem with one of out suppliers, I have
>returned to conquer the VS!
>
> Okay, in all seriousness, I have this morning did the Alumiprep and
>Alodine routine on all the VS parts, except for the inside of the skin.
>I think I should at least give it a sponge bath (inside only for now...)
>before priming with PPG DP50LF Epoxy primer.
>
> What does everyone else think?
>
>-Jim 40384
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AOA installation |
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
I installed it after riveting the leading edge together but before attaching it
to the rest of the wing. This allows access from the back end of the leading
edge.
Niko
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Droopy Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: AOA installation
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport) system. Was
it easier to install before riveting the leading edge together, after riveting
but before attaching to the wing, or after it's completely installed? Also,
did you install an access panel similiar to the one called out for Van's stall
warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA installation |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Install after the leading edge is riveted, doesn't make any difference whether
already attached to wing or not. No need for an access panel - the pressure taps
go in the outboard bay and are reachable through the lightening holes in the
outboard rib with the wingtip off.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: AOA installation
Hey all,
Just wondering for those that have installed the AOA (Pro or Sport) system. Was
it easier to install before riveting the leading edge together, after riveting
but before attaching to the wing, or after it's completely installed? Also,
did you install an access panel similiar to the one called out for Van's stall
warning vane?
Thanks,
John (breathing epoxy primer fumes today...)
#40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
You can also use soft solid rivets.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wingtips
I have one thought,
As much as we hate pop rivets, a hard rivets swells in the hole as it is
being driven. In fiberglass the swelling is almost and often can be the
start of a good crack. The pop rivets are mostly a clamping force use
some good goo between the fiberglass and the rib and pop away knowing
the pop rivets are there just to hold the thing in place wile the goo
sets up. Like the idea of the reverse rib! Would make it easy to see
just how good the pop rivets are doing.
Noel
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Wingtips
Sorry to disrupt the nice flow of off-topic information. I am working
on the wingtips and have been thinking about the little wingtip rib.
The plans call for it to be flush with the inboard edge of the wingtip
with the flange outboard (inside the wingtip). I hate the idea of
hammering rivets on fiberglass and I hate using pop rivets. Does
anybody see any reason why I cannot switch the ribs from right to left
and have the flange inboard and use a squeezer to rivet it in? That is
how the outboard rib is on the aileron, so I can't imagine it would make
a lot of difference aesthetically or aerodynamically. Van's said that
it would not make any difference structurally, which is fairly obvious.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
> I've heard there are some decent rattle
>can Self Etching Primers. Anyone know of
>a good source where I can do some research, and
>possible product sources in the Raleigh, NC area?
>I'd like to at least evaluate the possibility,
>primer-wars aside...
>
>Thanks,
>
>-Dj
Marhyde and SEM are my favorites. Use SEM mostly now. Seems to be on the
local paint shop shelf more consistently than Marhyde.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
Sherwin Williams 988 is very good stuff for a "rattle can". Special nozzle
that sprays very well. Available at Car Quest or same from Napa packaged as
7220(?) by SW under the Martin Senor brand name. All the same stuff just
different can. Dupont just released a new self-etching primer 4115SS which
looks like a zinc oxide base. It appears to work well (just used some this
afternoon). My favorite is the SW 988.
All available from any auto refinish supplier and there are plenty in
Raleigh. This is great stuff to have around the shop for small parts when
you don't want to mix two parts etc. Some folks use it for almost
everything.
Bill S
7a Ark
fuse/panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Subject: RV10-List: rattle can primer
I've heard there are some decent rattle
can Self Etching Primers. Anyone know of
a good source where I can do some research, and
possible product sources in the Raleigh, NC area?
I'd like to at least evaluate the possibility,
primer-wars aside...
Thanks,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get the
neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL this
evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for both
parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on the VS
skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill(at)cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day....of course I am just
starting on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring of
the holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Rivet squeezer washers |
You will find an AN-960 washer is about 1/16 of an inch thick. I find that with
1 washer you can squeeze a -6 rivet, with 2 a -5 and with 3, a -4 rivet. I
have a thin 1/32 washer that I use to get the extra .5 for the -3.5 rivet.
William Curtis
40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wing Root Connector |
See below pdf for the part numbers on the AMP CPC connectors used on the wing root. The plug is used on the wing and the square flang male receptacle is used on the fuselage. The listed part numbers can be ordered from Mouser Electronics <http://www.mouser.com/>, much cheaper than Aerotronics.
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
<http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Connect?C=10574&F=0&M=CINF&GIID=771&LG=1&I=13&RQS=C~10574%5eP~147388,2335,10250,23197,25822,76059%5eM~PROP%5eN~1%5eIDS~40295>
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wing Root Connector |
Nice job on the schematic! Now for my usual curiosity.....
Are you running individual ground wires (5+ separate) for everything through
that wing root connector? Some of those things are as easily grounded
locally--remember we're building metal airplanes here, and things like stall
warning (that are almost NEVER energized) and nav lights, et.al, aren't
typically "noisy" things that are suceptible to ground loops.
Also, did you make sure you can/are allowed to splice the OAT
wires??...several of the main mfgrs of these things don't want/allow
splicing or modification of the OAT cables due to inconsistantcies in the
signals. Also, typical resistance/float type fuel sendors don't usually
require a separate ground, are you using capacitance senders? Either way,
AWG18 is a HUGE wire for a fuel level sender/sensor. Same with the Stall
warning...looks kind of fat to me. Also, the pitot heat at AWG16 may
suffice, but several of the heated pitot mfgrs suggest AWG14. I'll go out
on a limb here and guess you're using a TT autopilot? Why the AWG18 Ground
for that servo with a power lead of AWG20? In the harnesses we build for
TruTrak, they nearly all use AWG20 for the power/ground, and AWG22 for the
signal wires.
I assume from your diagram you are not having a root connector for the
antennas or strobe wiring? If so, I'm assuming you're not running the
antenna wires in the same conduit as the high tension strobe wires? Good
choice on the wing root NAV antennas, but you might also think about the
wingtip MB antenna instead of the old boat/sled type fuselage antenna. One
less thing in the airstream and the wingtip ones work beautifully!
Anyway, my point here isn't to berate your diagram, because you have a well
thought out and designed schematic that is better than many I've seen. I'm
just asking questions.....and as pointed out in many historical posts of
mine, I'm not a huge fan of having any connectors in the wing roots or aft
fuse bulkheads at all. More points of failure, and once the wings are
mounted for good, how many times do you think you'll ever remove them? I'm
not saying to never use one, just make sure you have really justified your
need for it. If it's only to make things easier for fitting the wings, let
me point out that you'll likely spend more time installing the connectors,
wire, pins, etc.. than it would take to just run the wires when the wings
are completely installed. For example either run the wires when you build
the wings and leave some coils zip tied to the root rib, or do it the other
way around. I'm just of the old school KISS, simple and light. Complexity
always reduces reliability, increases weight, cost and time. 1 loose pin in
the connector someday can make for troubleshooting hell....
Last but not least, if you do use any type of connectors, make sure you buy
connectors and pins that are rated for the loads you will be carrying.
Things like Landing Lights and PItot heat draw a relatively high amount of
current, and many of those CPC connectors, specifically the "Series 1" Part
Number you have spec'd out on your drawing are actually only rated for a MAX
of 13 AMPS for each size 16 pin, per the spec from AMP/TYCO (I could be
wrong here, but that's what I found in my AMP catalog here). This is the
max current for that particular pin in "free" air, not when installed with
multiple current carrying sources. Make sure you buy the good gold flashed
pins as well. You'll probably be fine, as I don't think you'll have
anything in your schematic that is drawing that much current, but I just
wanted to caution people overall to not just buy "any" type of connector to
throw in the wing root.
Not a flame intended here, just some information for everyone considering
wing root connectors.
Just my 2 cents...worth every penny you paid for it!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 12:02 AM
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com; schmoboy(at)cox.net
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Wing Root Connector
See below pdf for the part numbers on the AMP CPC connectors used on the
wing root. The plug is used on the wing and the square flang male receptacle
is used on the fuselage. The listed part numbers can be ordered from Mouser
Electronics , much cheaper than Aerotronics.
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/RV/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CompressorCompressor |
Dear Rick & Bob:
Having broke bread with the two of you, I am suprised about the sand idea. Everyone
knows there is no sand in your neck of the woods and Rick is certaintly
not a beach bum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rattle can primer |
I like zinc chromate in rattle cans. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/stylespilotshop/a7-6889a.html $4.95 per can plus shipping. I order in boxes of six. Good service.
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There are a lot of builders
looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind them when you get to
the wings as to its value.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get
the neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL
this evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for
both parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on
the VS skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill(at)cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day........of course I am
just starting on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring
of the holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Actually, I've been using these since I started (finished with the HS) and I love
them. My favorite thing to do is chuck it up in the drill press and go to
town on things like ribs and spars. I had all of the HS ribs deburred in something
like 15 minutes.
Michael
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There are a lot of builders looking
forward to your report. Be sure and remind them when you get to the wings as
to its value.
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get the neutral
blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL this evening,
Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for both parts, not sure
what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on the VS skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill(at)cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day........of course I am just starting
on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring of the
holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | rattle can primer |
I picked up some VERY good gray self etching yesterday, almost fell down at the
cost $16.00 for a 16 oz can. Fantastic spray nozzel and really tough as nails
this morning after sitting last night. Made in England and it's called "Acid
#8" by a company called U-POL. I was out and stopped by D'Angelos instad of trucking
all the way across town to Sherwin Williams. I used Green Zinc on the inside
from Spruce, on part I think might get primed and painted later I have use
the 988 up until last night on the Flap hinges. This stuff is expensive but
tough and it covered in one pass so it may be more economical. Still like AKZO
for durability though.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Masters.....
| Subject: | Re: Alodine Skins? Advice needed from the Jedi |
Masters.....
hee he heee HAA HHAAAAA HA HAHAH HAHAHAHA......
I love those questions. Check out Tim Olsons site www.myrv10.com ...I think he has the best method of corrosion proofing going short of anodizing everything. I degloss, degrease and prime. I only Alodine only solid aluminum parts, ie non alcad stuff.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: rattle can primer |
If you go to any NAPA auto store, they carry Dupli-Color DAP 1690 Self-Etching
Primer for $5.95. It is great stuff and I use if for small parts when I do not
want to mix up the two part stuff.
DAP 1690:
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/primer.html
DAP 1690 MSDE:
<http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=DUPLI&prodno=DAP1690&doctype=MSDS&lang=E>
William
#40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Wing Root Connector |
>Sir William,
>
>On your diagram, Am I correct to assume the "Pitch Servo" is
> the Ray Allen electric elevator trim? vs an autopilot pitch
> / altitude servo?
>
>Jim C
>#40192
Jim,
I believe it says "Pitch Trim (5)", that is the Ray Allen electric trim. "Autopilot
Servo (8)" is the autpilot pitch servo.
William
#40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
Here is a link where I demonstrate using a 3/32
Burraway tool.
https://home.comcast.net/~sfdarton/RV10_movies/Burraway_2.avi
This is deburring both sides of the hole in one pass
and the back side of this rear elevator spar would be
very difficult to deburr by conventional means. You
can see how quick it is. I deburr nearly every single
hole with these tools. I have yet to notice the
sharpness beginning to dull. I've completed the tail
section, wing spars and am now beginning the wing
ribs. They are expensive for such a
small tool but I would never want to build a metal
airplane without one. I have some extra larger size
burraway tools I would part with very reasonably.
Steve #40212 (801)0971-1009
--- "John W. Cox" wrote:
> Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There
> are a lot of builders
> looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind
> them when you get to
> the wings as to its value.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert G.
> Wright
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Here's my follow up to this.
>
>
>
> I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on
> Wednesday (make sure you get
> the neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They
> arrived in Enterprise, AL
> this evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was
> somewhere around $75 for
> both parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait
> to try them out on
> the VS skin tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> 40392
>
> VS skeleton and skin clecoed
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
>
> PO Box 7007
>
> Camden, SC 29020-7007
>
> 803-438-4000 or
>
> 803-438-5263
>
> Email cogsdill(at)cogsdill.com
>
>
>
> Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Rene Felker
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Where did you get your Burraway tool?
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:51 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill
> Burraway tool.
>
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
>
> 40304
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
>
>
> I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any
> day........of course I am
> just starting on my wings.
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
> N423CF
>
> 40322
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Mani Ravee
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 10:11 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its
> the tedious deburring
> of the holes which get me. I really hate that.
>
> Mani
>
> Rick wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
Find restaurants, movies, travel and more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/weekend.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
My thoughts, such as they are, regarding the Burraway tools:
Buy them, 3/32 and 1/8. (This advice is from probably one of the smaller
budgeted ones on the list. Saving all I can for the panel.)
Either the blade on my 3/32 is a smidge too small or the drill that I was
using was a smidge too big, but I found that I needed to pass the 3/32
through the holes more slowly in order to do a good job of deburring the
hole, i.e. without leaving part of the burr there. I had to pass the 1/8
through the holes at "combat speed," or the speed one would hope to use with
these near-wonder tools. If I passed the 1/8 through too slowly it would
start to countersink the hole. This is the exact result I'm after: You have
to go fast to do a good job!
I'll try to remember to use a different jobber #40 drill bit on my next
round of holes. The 3/32 Burraway may work more to what I'm after. YMMV
Rob Wright
#392
VS 70% complete
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I've been using these since I started (finished with the HS) and I
love them. My favorite thing to do is chuck it up in the drill press and go
to town on things like ribs and spars. I had all of the HS ribs deburred in
something like 15 minutes.
Michael
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There are a lot of builders
looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind them when you get to the
wings as to its value.
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Here's my follow up to this.
I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on Wednesday (make sure you get the
neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived in Enterprise, AL this
evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere around $75 for both
parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to try them out on the VS
skin tomorrow.
Rob Wright
40392
VS skeleton and skin clecoed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
PO Box 7007
Camden, SC 29020-7007
803-438-4000 or
803-438-5263
Email cogsdill(at)cogsdill.com
Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
John Cox
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Where did you get your Burraway tool?
Rene'
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill Burraway tool.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
I agree, I will swap dimpling for debur any day....of course I am just
starting on my wings.
Rene'
N423CF
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
Actually, I did not mind the dimpling at all. Its the tedious deburring of
the holes which get me. I really hate that.
Mani
Rick wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
Robert,
Or any one using a Burraway, The tension on the blade
is very adjustable. In the base of the tool is a set
screw. Turn it out all the way then turn it three
turns. This should get your adjustment close, play
with it to fine tune the amount it cuts to suit your
preference. Once it's adjusted I don't have to play
with the adjustment any more. The technique I use to
deburr any size hole is relatively the same, or in
other words one size burraway cuts no more
aggressively than any other. I set mine so that two
revolutions does the job.
Steve #40212
--- "Robert G. Wright"
wrote:
> My thoughts, such as they are, regarding the
> Burraway tools:
>
>
>
> Buy them, 3/32 and 1/8. (This advice is from
> probably one of the smaller
> budgeted ones on the list. Saving all I can for the
> panel.)
>
>
>
> Either the blade on my 3/32 is a smidge too small or
> the drill that I was
> using was a smidge too big, but I found that I
> needed to pass the 3/32
> through the holes more slowly in order to do a good
> job of deburring the
> hole, i.e. without leaving part of the burr there.
> I had to pass the 1/8
> through the holes at "combat speed," or the speed
> one would hope to use with
> these near-wonder tools. If I passed the 1/8
> through too slowly it would
> start to countersink the hole. This is the exact
> result I'm after: You have
> to go fast to do a good job!
>
>
>
> I'll try to remember to use a different jobber #40
> drill bit on my next
> round of holes. The 3/32 Burraway may work more to
> what I'm after. YMMV
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392
>
> VS 70% complete
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of RV Builder
> (Michael Sausen)
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 1:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Actually, I've been using these since I started
> (finished with the HS) and I
> love them. My favorite thing to do is chuck it up
> in the drill press and go
> to town on things like ribs and spars. I had all of
> the HS ribs deburred in
> something like 15 minutes.
>
>
>
> Michael
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 9:54 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
> Thanks for pointing out the neutral blade. There
> are a lot of builders
> looking forward to your report. Be sure and remind
> them when you get to the
> wings as to its value.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Here's my follow up to this.
>
>
>
> I ordered the 3/32 and the 1/8 Burraways on
> Wednesday (make sure you get the
> neutral blade for aluminum) from SC. They arrived
> in Enterprise, AL this
> evening, Friday via ground UPS. Cost was somewhere
> around $75 for both
> parts, not sure what shipping was. Can't wait to
> try them out on the VS
> skin tomorrow.
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> 40392
>
> VS skeleton and skin clecoed
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of John W. Cox
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 7:18 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Cogsdill Tool Products, Inc.
>
> PO Box 7007
>
> Camden, SC 29020-7007
>
> 803-438-4000 or
>
> 803-438-5263
>
> Email cogsdill(at)cogsdill.com
>
>
>
> Catalog # 100 U.S. 1-04, "Burraway" Pages 6-11
>
>
>
> John Cox
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Rene Felker
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Where did you get your Burraway tool?
>
>
>
> Rene'
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
> Sent: Tuesday, May 10, 2005 1:51 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: WTB:
>
>
>
> Deburring is much more pleasant with the Cogsdill
> Burraway tool.
>
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
>
> 40304
>
>
>
>
>
> On May 10, 2005, at 10:57 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
=== message truncated ===
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Michigan builders? |
Any Michigan Builders out there?
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
Anybody have a good way to remove the expansion plug in the crankshaft (IO-540)
for constant speed operation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
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--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
Did anyone else notice the "Extended rangs tanks.. Total 120 Gallons" ?
Is that a misprint, or is there really 120 gal. capacity? And perhaps
more importantly, How did he do it? I plan on doing alot of long
distance flying and could use extra fuel..
-Jim 40384
Mark Ritter wrote:
>
> Congratulations John on being the first customer built RV-10 in the
> air. Great video--really inspired me to go whack more fiberglass
> (nasty stuff) on the cabin top. There are 400+ right behind you--some
> closer than others.
>
> Mark
>
>
> >From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 19:33:56 -0700
> >
> >
> >Looks like someone got a -10 in the air today for those of you who
> haven't
> >seen this....
> >
> >James
> >#40400
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
> >Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 7:23 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer"
> >
> >Congradulations John Nys on your first fight of an RV-10.
> >
> > >From the SoCAL-RVList at yahoogroups
> >------- insert --------
> >From: Kevin Osborn <kosborn_2000(at)yahoo.com>
> >Date: Sat May 14, 2005 6:37 pm
> >Subject: History kosborn_2000
> >
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I wanted to let you know I witnessed history today for
> >the RV world.
> >
> >Today for 20 minutes the first customer built RV-10
> >flew today at KO38, Owasso, OK.
> >
> >The plane N3146S owned and piloted by John Nyes flew
> >today. He confirmed with Van's yesterday that He
> >would be the first.
> >
> >I got some great video. If someone has someplace to
> >post it I can send it to you. I don't know what it
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Randy's First Flight Story - By Randy Himself |
Randy had me post this for him. Here are the details of his first
flight!!
------
Well are you ready for the story? My day started about 4:30 am. I was
up now and can't sleep. I started for the airport at 5:50. When I got
there I made one last look over the plane to see if anything had been
missed. The plane looks ready. Tim James the owner/ builder of the
Glastar you can see in some of my photos had written down his
recommondations for the first flight. I read through them and wrote down
approach speeds and power setting for break-in on a sticky note and
placed it in on the panel. Tim had received speeds from Van and Ken
Kruger on Thursday and also called Norm at Premier Aircraft the(engine
builder) to confirm the power settings. Back to the day.
Tim showed up at 7:00 and after doing a little mixture adjusting on a
friends plane we pulled his Glastar out to go and "take a look". As we
were about to take off but we had to wait for Van to land on his way to
work in the RV9. We took a look around and the ceiling was 4000 ft or
so. We are a go for first flight.
We rolled N610RV out and I said the good-by's and received the good
lucks and got in and waited for Tim and Rob Hickman to get settled into
Rob's RV4. Rob offered to act as a chase plane on Thursday night so he
and Tim could check for oil leaks or other problems. What a great help
Rob was in the last day's before my flight and now the day of. He also
had the digital video camera that Tim will use during the flight. Yes we
have inflight video. You will see it soon. Back to the flight.
I sarted up and taxied out to the north end of Aurora airport and was
noticing very low temps on cyl #6. As I went throught the pre flight
checkliist and mag check the # 6 cyl was dead, no egt temp to speek of.
I decided we needed to check it out so back to the hanger we went.
We pulled the top cowl and did a leak down on # 6 cyl and all was well
with compression as expected. Our first thought was that the plugs were
oil fouled.. By this time it is 8:30 and the mechanics from the local
aviation shop come down to see what is happening. We tell them we think
it is oil fowled plugs and they confirmed they see that very often in
rebuilt engines. There advice is "get in it and go". "You can't burn
the excess oil off it until you get some load and heat buildup in the
cyl". By then we had got ahold of Norm and he confirmed that with the
preserative oils that were put into the cyl's for storage and new rings
that the I needed to "get in it and Go". So we pulled the lower cowl and
cleaned the plugs with brake cleaner and reinstalled them. By this time
the sky's have opended up and it is raining hard. We had time. We
cowled up the plane and waited. The rain only lasted an hour or so. Tim
went back up in the Glastar to see what was headed our way. Looked good.
We saddled up and started off.
To save ground running time I did most of my checks on the taxi. All
cyl looked good now, good EGT's. I stopped long enough to do a prop
check and we were off. I rolled the power in over a long period of time
just keep and ear and an eye on everything. The take-off roll was much
longer then normal and just what I wanted.
LIFT OFF. What a feeling! You cannot describe it.... 1 year and 8
months and it is the air painted and looking good.
I was a little late on retracting the flaps (a lot going through my
head). Flaps up and I climbed out at about 90 kts. Just a note here on
gauges. It dawned on me after the first flight that I never looked at
the Dynon for anything but pitch. I didn't even know if the airspeed
and altitude were working on the Dynon. I flew strickly by the steam
gauges because they were right where I expected them to be and they told
what I wanted to know. Interesting. Anyway back to the climb out. I
continued as far south of the runway as I wanted and headed on a
crosswind leg. First turn felt exactly like 410RV. I continued
clinbing turns until we made 4000 ft. and level off. High power setting
for break-in was 26 man pressure and 2400 rpm. for the first 3 hours.
We were not going to fly that long on the first flight. We few going to
play it by ear. After 10 minutes or so Rob was asking for temps and
pressures. I relayed them and he confirmed we were in the green. I will
say the ACS2500 kept telling me to check fuel flow. As it turned out I
hadn't set the flight fuel at the same reading as ground fuel. Rob knew
what was causing it and said we will program it on the ground. Back to
the flight.
The plane flies exactly like the factory plane. I would encourage
everyone to spend the money and fly some transition training in the 10.
I was much less apprehensive as soon as I made the first turn, I know
this feel, this response, no problem.
After about 30 min some more showers were headed our way. Rob suggested
we head down and wait them out. We had thunder showers all day high
winds just before and during then good weather in between. I didn't
want to make the first landing in high winds so down we went. I left in
the high power all the way to the upwind leg of the landing. Landing
was uneventful as you can see on the video's. I taxied up to the video
crew and shook some hands and got a kiss or two Then taxied to the
hanger were we pulled the top cowl again for a look. Dry clean and
ready to go but I was starving.
By this time it was 11:00 and I had to make some calls and calls and
calls. Rob had to get some work done and Bruce wanted to go back and
get the video on the net. We went to lunch and talked about things.
I am going back out to the hanger now to fly some more. I will write
about the second flight and anything new tonight. I have 3.12 hours on
the plane now so you can see that there is more to talk about.
Randy #006 N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj
A product is available form NAPA and Discount Auto Parts and it is
called Dupi Color. It is a green self etching primer that has been
recommended to me by other RV builders. I would use this primer in
areas that you plan to paint such as interior panels.
NAPA (by the way, stands for National Aircraft Parts Association) sells
them for $7 and Discount Auto sells them for $5.
Do not archive.
On May 13, 2005, at 2:53 PM, Dj Merrill wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill
>
> I've heard there are some decent rattle
> can Self Etching Primers. Anyone know of
> a good source where I can do some research, and
> possible product sources in the Raleigh, NC area?
> I'd like to at least evaluate the possibility,
> primer-wars aside...
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dj
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
I was in awe until he did the beat up???? you must be joking.....
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
| From: | matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com |
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I also noticed the title on the video pointing out the long range tanks.
I would be VERY interested in getting more details regarding this.
Anyone have any details on what John Nys did?
I'd love to be able to make my Cincinnati to Houston trips in one shot.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
(Wings to arrive next week...yipee)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
Did anyone else notice the "Extended rangs tanks.. Total 120 Gallons" ?
Is that a misprint, or is there really 120 gal. capacity? And perhaps
more importantly, How did he do it? I plan on doing alot of long
distance flying and could use extra fuel..
-Jim 40384
Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
>
> Congratulations John on being the first customer built RV-10 in the
> air. Great video--really inspired me to go whack more fiberglass
> (nasty stuff) on the cabin top. There are 400+ right behind you--some
> closer than others.
>
> Mark
>
>
> >From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 19:33:56 -0700
> >
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs"
> >
> >Looks like someone got a -10 in the air today for those of you who
> haven't
> >seen this....
> >
> >James
> >#40400
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
> >Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 7:23 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer"
> >
> >Congradulations John Nys on your first fight of an RV-10.
> >
> > >From the SoCAL-RVList at yahoogroups
> >------- insert --------
> >From: Kevin Osborn <kosborn_2000(at)yahoo.com>
> >Date: Sat May 14, 2005 6:37 pm
> >Subject: History kosborn_2000
> >
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I wanted to let you know I witnessed history today for
> >the RV world.
> >
> >Today for 20 minutes the first customer built RV-10
> >flew today at KO38, Owasso, OK.
> >
> >The plane N3146S owned and piloted by John Nyes flew
> >today. He confirmed with Van's yesterday that He
> >would be the first.
> >
> >I got some great video. If someone has someplace to
> >post it I can send it to you. I don't know what it
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | One option for 15 gallon extension to RV-10 tanks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I did a little searching and found this:
http://www.safeair1.com/HWA/HWA_top.htm
Looks like extended tanks that go into the wing lightning holes and an
electric transfer pump. Doesn't sound like this is what John Nys used
though.
Kent
40338
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
I think I'd need a lavatory holding tank, then, too . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I also noticed the title on the video pointing out the long range tanks.
I would be VERY interested in getting more details regarding this.
Anyone have any details on what John Nys did?
I'd love to be able to make my Cincinnati to Houston trips in one shot.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
(Wings to arrive next week...yipee)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
Did anyone else notice the "Extended rangs tanks.. Total 120 Gallons" ?
Is that a misprint, or is there really 120 gal. capacity? And perhaps
more importantly, How did he do it? I plan on doing alot of long
distance flying and could use extra fuel..
-Jim 40384
Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
>
> Congratulations John on being the first customer built RV-10 in the
> air. Great video--really inspired me to go whack more fiberglass
> (nasty stuff) on the cabin top. There are 400+ right behind you--some
> closer than others.
>
> Mark
>
>
> >From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 19:33:56 -0700
> >
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs"
> >
> >Looks like someone got a -10 in the air today for those of you who
> haven't
> >seen this....
> >
> >James
> >#40400
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
> >Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 7:23 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer"
> >
> >Congradulations John Nys on your first fight of an RV-10.
> >
> > >From the SoCAL-RVList at yahoogroups
> >------- insert --------
> >From: Kevin Osborn <kosborn_2000(at)yahoo.com>
> >Date: Sat May 14, 2005 6:37 pm
> >Subject: History kosborn_2000
> >
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I wanted to let you know I witnessed history today for
> >the RV world.
> >
> >Today for 20 minutes the first customer built RV-10
> >flew today at KO38, Owasso, OK.
> >
> >The plane N3146S owned and piloted by John Nyes flew
> >today. He confirmed with Van's yesterday that He
> >would be the first.
> >
> >I got some great video. If someone has someplace to
> >post it I can send it to you. I don't know what it
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
| From: | matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com |
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I'm building a urinal into the aft side of the pilots control stick..
:-)
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
I think I'd need a lavatory holding tank, then, too . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I also noticed the title on the video pointing out the long range tanks.
I would be VERY interested in getting more details regarding this.
Anyone have any details on what John Nys did?
I'd love to be able to make my Cincinnati to Houston trips in one shot.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
(Wings to arrive next week...yipee)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
Did anyone else notice the "Extended rangs tanks.. Total 120 Gallons" ?
Is that a misprint, or is there really 120 gal. capacity? And perhaps
more importantly, How did he do it? I plan on doing alot of long
distance flying and could use extra fuel..
-Jim 40384
Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
>
> Congratulations John on being the first customer built RV-10 in the
> air. Great video--really inspired me to go whack more fiberglass
> (nasty stuff) on the cabin top. There are 400+ right behind you--some
> closer than others.
>
> Mark
>
>
> >From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 19:33:56 -0700
> >
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs"
> >
> >Looks like someone got a -10 in the air today for those of you who
> haven't
> >seen this....
> >
> >James
> >#40400
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
> >Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 7:23 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer"
> >
> >Congradulations John Nys on your first fight of an RV-10.
> >
> > >From the SoCAL-RVList at yahoogroups
> >------- insert --------
> >From: Kevin Osborn <kosborn_2000(at)yahoo.com>
> >Date: Sat May 14, 2005 6:37 pm
> >Subject: History kosborn_2000
> >
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I wanted to let you know I witnessed history today for
> >the RV world.
> >
> >Today for 20 minutes the first customer built RV-10
> >flew today at KO38, Owasso, OK.
> >
> >The plane N3146S owned and piloted by John Nyes flew
> >today. He confirmed with Van's yesterday that He
> >would be the first.
> >
> >I got some great video. If someone has someplace to
> >post it I can send it to you. I don't know what it
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
We have a simple lavatory with small holding tank in our quasi-military 707. Then
there was the time on the ramp when one of the radar technicians used it,
not knowing the holding tank had been removed for cleaning. The crew chief was
"pissed" - no pun intended!
TDT
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I'm building a urinal into the aft side of the pilots control stick..
:-)
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
I think I'd need a lavatory holding tank, then, too . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I also noticed the title on the video pointing out the long range tanks.
I would be VERY interested in getting more details regarding this.
Anyone have any details on what John Nys did?
I'd love to be able to make my Cincinnati to Houston trips in one shot.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
(Wings to arrive next week...yipee)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
Did anyone else notice the "Extended rangs tanks.. Total 120 Gallons" ?
Is that a misprint, or is there really 120 gal. capacity? And perhaps
more importantly, How did he do it? I plan on doing alot of long
distance flying and could use extra fuel..
-Jim 40384
Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
>
> Congratulations John on being the first customer built RV-10 in the
> air. Great video--really inspired me to go whack more fiberglass
> (nasty stuff) on the cabin top. There are 400+ right behind you--some
> closer than others.
>
> Mark
>
>
> >From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 19:33:56 -0700
> >
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs"
> >
> >Looks like someone got a -10 in the air today for those of you who
> haven't
> >seen this....
> >
> >James
> >#40400
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
> >Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 7:23 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer"
> >
> >Congradulations John Nys on your first fight of an RV-10.
> >
> > >From the SoCAL-RVList at yahoogroups
> >------- insert --------
> >From: Kevin Osborn <kosborn_2000(at)yahoo.com>
> >Date: Sat May 14, 2005 6:37 pm
> >Subject: History kosborn_2000
> >
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I wanted to let you know I witnessed history today for
> >the RV world.
> >
> >Today for 20 minutes the first customer built RV-10
> >flew today at KO38, Owasso, OK.
> >
> >The plane N3146S owned and piloted by John Nyes flew
> >today. He confirmed with Van's yesterday that He
> >would be the first.
> >
> >I got some great video. If someone has someplace to
> >post it I can send it to you. I don't know what it
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Congratulations to John Nys and the Year of the RV |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
Congratulations are indeed in order for the accomplishments of John Nys
and his N3146S taking to the sky on Saturday, May 14th, 2005. Spring
Fever is certainly in the air.
Curiosity also abounds on his preliminary W&B numbers and design
features of those 120 gallon capacity fuel tanks. Wonder if he was able
to stay with the unmodified Vans spars.
On a final note, the radar screen shows nine N numbers pre-registered to
other builders 'bucking' in the wings in short succession. If any are
inadvertently missed, please surface so we can all share in the final
excitement.
Ed McGinty with #004
Randy DeBauw with #006
Doug Peterson with #009
Jay Brinkmeyer with #011
George Chaudoin with #040
Alexander Marshall with #110
John Stewart with #108
Rob Kermanj with #163 and of course
Vic Syracuse with #229
2005, the year of the RV-10
John Cox - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Video of the first RV-10 Flying - Congrats |
Congratulations John. I am very glad your first flight went well. We should see
several first flights coming up in the next few months. This is a very fun
time.
Well we almost made the first flight. Taking the extra step of painting before
my first flight was apparently to much of a handy cap. I am having the condition
inspection today with the first flight scheduled for Wednesday depending
on weather. We fired up N610RV and taxied around some to seat the brakes. Then
we went into full throttle runups to set the static prop pitch. That was an
exciting time. I will be posting some photos from Sat. on Tim site soon. I
want to take several photos of the complete plane in detail before I start to
assemble it for the first flight. That way everyone can see what passed inspection
and what did not. Helping to make every RV10 as safe as possible with be
in everyone's interest. Randy
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee"
That is the coolest thing I have seen in awhile. I can not even imagine what
it would be like when it comes my time. I am so glad to see that the take
off and the landing were uneventful and both pilot and plane are safe. Sure
Tim, I would almost give an arm and a leg to hear what his words were after
he landed. And Randy, we are eagerly waiting for yours. Please be very
careful.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[ mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Video of the first RV-10 Flying - Congrats
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
I just saw the video of John Nyes flying the first flight in a
Customer built RV-10. The video is at:
http://www.vansairforce.com/video/RV10_JohnNyes.wmv
It's very cool that he got his flight in, complete with a High Speed
pass....you gotta love those. I can't wait to hear his review
some day as to how it all flew and felt. John deserves a lot
of credit for being able to get his plane flying in such a short
timespan. I don't know his builder number, but it must be a very
low one.
I gotta feel for Randy and Doug P. I know they were both scrambling
to be the first, but, John made the flight and he deserves the
congrats from us all. Randy, if it makes you feel any better, you
will still be the first RV-10 flying "finished", as you'll probably
be the first one flying your RV-10 complete with it's full interior,
and painted airframe. ;)
What a nice benefit of the day and age we live in that we can also
view the video of the first flight, the same day or day after
it happens. As more of you finish your planes, feel free to send
me your videos and I'll get them posted for others to see.
Congrats John, many happy flights to you! My turn's a while away yet.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One option for 15 gallon extension to RV-10 tanks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Tough to say exactly what type of tanks they could be...but you
notice he filled them from way out by the tips. Pretty
cool having 120 gallons available. Personally, I'd love to
see 90, but even 60 will more than take care of my kids
comfort range.
One other very cool thing about his flight and video...
Did anyone else stopwatch his takeoff time and notice the incredible
climb rate?? I think it was under 10 seconds from throttle to
air. Fantastic! The landing was also very nice and short with
what seemed to be a really short rollout. The guy must have
spent some time in the RV-10, or at least similar flying planes
or RV's, 'cuz he did a good job with flying this one.
I do have a question for the group though...
This flight was 20 minutes long. I'm not sure which way to
think on this. Do you make that first flight with the fresh
engine a flight that is good for the engine....like a 1-2
hour break-in, while keeping the speed up so it cools well?
Or, do you do what he did and do a short flight and then
come back and make sure everything is fine and nothings
leaking...even though that might not be best for the engine.
At first I wondered if he may have had problems, but I'm
betting he was just wanting to verify there were no oil leaks.
I'm mixed about what to do myself. When I do the first
flight, I plan to have people on the ground to record it,
and I also plan to have a chase plane fly along...both to
get pictures, and to watch for anything out of the ordinary.
I had thought that maybe my first flight would be a good
1+ hours long....feeling it out before trying to land it,
and giving some break-in time.
Any comments as to what the real suggested method is?
I've not read much on this yet. At least we'll have some
good experience to learn from, with a good handful
of planes about to be completed. This is going to be
a very cool OSH year!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
>
> I did a little searching and found this:
> http://www.safeair1.com/HWA/HWA_top.htm
>
> Looks like extended tanks that go into the wing lightning holes and an
> electric transfer pump. Doesn't sound like this is what John Nys used
> though.
>
> Kent
> 40338
> Elevators
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One option for 15 gallon extension to RV-10 tanks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Oh, I missed the line in my last post...I'm wondering if being
120 gallons, the tanks aren't basically just another set of
fuel tanks, identical to the first set, that are added on
just outboard of the originals. This would seem to be the
easiest way to add 60 extra gallons. Then the only
modification would be to add the extra small wing leading
edge section to fill in the remaining wing.
I can't imaging those tubular SafeAir tanks in the lightening
holes would have anywhere near 30 gallons of capacity...and,
if you measure it out, our original fuel tanks are ALMOST
as long as the outboard leading edge is...just enough room
there to put a small space, with fuel line and connectors
to join the tanks, and then put another tank on, and maybe
another small leading edge section. That would be my
bet.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
do not archive
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
>
> I did a little searching and found this:
> http://www.safeair1.com/HWA/HWA_top.htm
>
> Looks like extended tanks that go into the wing lightning holes and an
> electric transfer pump. Doesn't sound like this is what John Nys used
> though.
>
> Kent
> 40338
> Elevators
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
Kent, the moving orifice might prove a tough target in light turbulence
;) I'll bet you meant near the stick and with a stationary mount.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I'm building a urinal into the aft side of the pilots control stick..
:-)
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | One option for 15 gallon extension to RV-10 tanks |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw"
Tim, The company that rebuilt my engine recommends only flying it for 30 min or
so and then bring it down, uncowl it and inspect for leaks. Recowl it and continue
on using 2 over square as the breakin prceedure for approx. 3 hours total.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: One option for 15 gallon extension to RV-10
tanks
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Tough to say exactly what type of tanks they could be...but you
notice he filled them from way out by the tips. Pretty
cool having 120 gallons available. Personally, I'd love to
see 90, but even 60 will more than take care of my kids
comfort range.
One other very cool thing about his flight and video...
Did anyone else stopwatch his takeoff time and notice the incredible
climb rate?? I think it was under 10 seconds from throttle to
air. Fantastic! The landing was also very nice and short with
what seemed to be a really short rollout. The guy must have
spent some time in the RV-10, or at least similar flying planes
or RV's, 'cuz he did a good job with flying this one.
I do have a question for the group though...
This flight was 20 minutes long. I'm not sure which way to
think on this. Do you make that first flight with the fresh
engine a flight that is good for the engine....like a 1-2
hour break-in, while keeping the speed up so it cools well?
Or, do you do what he did and do a short flight and then
come back and make sure everything is fine and nothings
leaking...even though that might not be best for the engine.
At first I wondered if he may have had problems, but I'm
betting he was just wanting to verify there were no oil leaks.
I'm mixed about what to do myself. When I do the first
flight, I plan to have people on the ground to record it,
and I also plan to have a chase plane fly along...both to
get pictures, and to watch for anything out of the ordinary.
I had thought that maybe my first flight would be a good
1+ hours long....feeling it out before trying to land it,
and giving some break-in time.
Any comments as to what the real suggested method is?
I've not read much on this yet. At least we'll have some
good experience to learn from, with a good handful
of planes about to be completed. This is going to be
a very cool OSH year!
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
>
> I did a little searching and found this:
> http://www.safeair1.com/HWA/HWA_top.htm
>
> Looks like extended tanks that go into the wing lightning holes and an
> electric transfer pump. Doesn't sound like this is what John Nys used
> though.
>
> Kent
> 40338
> Elevators
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
Kent, the moving orifice might prove a tough target in light turbulence
;) I'll bet you meant near the stick, not on it.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I'm building a urinal into the aft side of the pilots control stick..
:-)
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
I think I'd need a lavatory holding tank, then, too . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I also noticed the title on the video pointing out the long range tanks.
I would be VERY interested in getting more details regarding this.
Anyone have any details on what John Nys did?
I'd love to be able to make my Cincinnati to Houston trips in one shot.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
(Wings to arrive next week...yipee)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein
Did anyone else notice the "Extended rangs tanks.. Total 120 Gallons" ?
Is that a misprint, or is there really 120 gal. capacity? And perhaps
more importantly, How did he do it? I plan on doing alot of long
distance flying and could use extra fuel..
-Jim 40384
Mark Ritter wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Mark Ritter"
>
> Congratulations John on being the first customer built RV-10 in the
> air. Great video--really inspired me to go whack more fiberglass
> (nasty stuff) on the cabin top. There are 400+ right behind you--some
> closer than others.
>
> Mark
>
>
> >From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 19:33:56 -0700
> >
> >--> RV10-List message posted by: "James Ochs"
> >
> >Looks like someone got a -10 in the air today for those of you who
> haven't
> >seen this....
> >
> >James
> >#40400
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV6 Flyer
> >Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 7:23 PM
> >To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer"
> >
> >Congradulations John Nys on your first fight of an RV-10.
> >
> > >From the SoCAL-RVList at yahoogroups
> >------- insert --------
> >From: Kevin Osborn <kosborn_2000(at)yahoo.com>
> >Date: Sat May 14, 2005 6:37 pm
> >Subject: History kosborn_2000
> >
> >
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I wanted to let you know I witnessed history today for
> >the RV world.
> >
> >Today for 20 minutes the first customer built RV-10
> >flew today at KO38, Owasso, OK.
> >
> >The plane N3146S owned and piloted by John Nyes flew
> >today. He confirmed with Van's yesterday that He
> >would be the first.
> >
> >I got some great video. If someone has someplace to
> >post it I can send it to you. I don't know what it
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN"
Me thinks that we take the "RV" label to seriously sometimes. 8*)
KABONG Do Not Archive
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
>
> I'm building a urinal into the aft side of the pilots control stick..
> :-)
>
>
> Kent Forsythe
> 40338
> Elevators
>
> Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
John,
(I'll apologize to the group in advance)
You just have to watch out for the 10's that you see continually
climbing, diving, climbing, diving. Talk about the RV Grin... :-)
Kent
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
Kent, the moving orifice might prove a tough target in light turbulence
;) I'll bet you meant near the stick and with a stationary mount.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I'm building a urinal into the aft side of the pilots control stick..
:-)
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Video of the first RV-10 Flying - Congrats |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen"
I was walking around a C-172 doing preflight when those static tests were
being done. Pretty impressive, and totally blew away my preflight. Had to
start over.
Congratulations, John. Those low passes on the video were very impressive.
It certainly shows a measure of confidence you have in the plane to do that
one your first flight. I only hope mine is built as well.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Video of the first RV-10 Flying - Congrats
Congratulations John. I am very glad your first flight went well. We
should see several first flights coming up in the next few months. This is
a very fun time.
Well we almost made the first flight. Taking the extra step of painting
before my first flight was apparently to much of a handy cap. I am having
the condition inspection today with the first flight scheduled for Wednesday
depending on weather. We fired up N610RV and taxied around some to seat the
brakes. Then we went into full throttle runups to set the static prop
pitch. That was an exciting time. I will be posting some photos from Sat.
on Tim site soon. I want to take several photos of the complete plane in
detail before I start to assemble it for the first flight. That way
everyone can see what passed inspection and what did not. Helping to make
every RV10 as safe as possible with be in everyone's interest. Randy
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Mani Ravee"
That is the coolest thing I have seen in awhile. I can not even imagine what
it would be like when it comes my time. I am so glad to see that the take
off and the landing were uneventful and both pilot and plane are safe. Sure
Tim, I would almost give an arm and a leg to hear what his words were after
he landed. And Randy, we are eagerly waiting for yours. Please be very
careful.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[ mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Video of the first RV-10 Flying - Congrats
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
I just saw the video of John Nyes flying the first flight in a Customer
built RV-10. The video is at:
http://www.vansairforce.com/video/RV10_JohnNyes.wmv
It's very cool that he got his flight in, complete with a High Speed
pass....you gotta love those. I can't wait to hear his review some day as
to how it all flew and felt. John deserves a lot of credit for being able
to get his plane flying in such a short timespan. I don't know his builder
number, but it must be a very low one.
I gotta feel for Randy and Doug P. I know they were both scrambling
to be the first, but, John made the flight and he deserves the congrats from
us all. Randy, if it makes you feel any better, you will still be the first
RV-10 flying "finished", as you'll probably be the first one flying your
RV-10 complete with it's full interior, and painted airframe. ;)
What a nice benefit of the day and age we live in that we can also view the
video of the first flight, the same day or day after it happens. As more of
you finish your planes, feel free to send me your videos and I'll get them
posted for others to see.
Congrats John, many happy flights to you! My turn's a while away yet.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Do Not Archive
====================================
====================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
Hey, this is a family list here! Funny though . . . ; )
TDT
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
John,
(I'll apologize to the group in advance)
You just have to watch out for the 10's that you see continually
climbing, diving, climbing, diving. Talk about the RV Grin... :-)
Kent
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
Kent, the moving orifice might prove a tough target in light turbulence
;) I'll bet you meant near the stick and with a stationary mount.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys!
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
I'm building a urinal into the aft side of the pilots control stick..
:-)
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Congratulations to John Nys and the Year of the RV |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint"
Stephen Saint with #241
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RV10-List: Congratulations to John Nys and the Year of the RV
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox"
Congratulations are indeed in order for the accomplishments of John Nys
and his N3146S taking to the sky on Saturday, May 14th, 2005. Spring
Fever is certainly in the air.
Curiosity also abounds on his preliminary W&B numbers and design
features of those 120 gallon capacity fuel tanks. Wonder if he was able
to stay with the unmodified Vans spars.
On a final note, the radar screen shows nine N numbers pre-registered to
other builders 'bucking' in the wings in short succession. If any are
inadvertently missed, please surface so we can all share in the final
excitement.
Ed McGinty with #004
Randy DeBauw with #006
Doug Peterson with #009
Jay Brinkmeyer with #011
George Chaudoin with #040
Alexander Marshall with #110
John Stewart with #108
Rob Kermanj with #163 and of course
Vic Syracuse with #229
2005, the year of the RV-10
John Cox - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | One option for 15 gallon extension to RV-10 tanks |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint"
I saw pictures of a guy who built a single tank the entire leading edge of
his -9. One filler cap, no extra pump or wiring, one tank to seal (although
bigger). That would be my bet. This guy had to bend his own leading edge
for the tank skin, but having it in one piece would be stronger than hanging
two separate tanks on the spar. I didn't work much on the wings, so how the
screw holes to mount a tank like this interfere with the rivet holes in the
spar?
We are probably going to put a tank in the luggage compartment or in the
back seat (removeable of course) to hold 11-15 gallons. SafeAir has tanks
for $2,300 (set of 2) that hold a total of 15 gallons. I think I would
rather spend a couple of hundred on a tank for a Luscombe or something that
will fit right into the baggage floor and run a pipe from there.
I can't wait to hear details on how he actually did the 120 gallons. He's
going to have to be pretty careful on W&B when he fills the tanks, but it
would be nice to be able to make it from OK to anywhere else in the
continental US on one tank. Yes, a pilot's range extender would be a must
(or a box of "depends").
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: One option for 15 gallon extension to RV-10 tanks
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Oh, I missed the line in my last post...I'm wondering if being
120 gallons, the tanks aren't basically just another set of
fuel tanks, identical to the first set, that are added on
just outboard of the originals. This would seem to be the
easiest way to add 60 extra gallons. Then the only
modification would be to add the extra small wing leading
edge section to fill in the remaining wing.
I can't imaging those tubular SafeAir tanks in the lightening
holes would have anywhere near 30 gallons of capacity...and,
if you measure it out, our original fuel tanks are ALMOST
as long as the outboard leading edge is...just enough room
there to put a small space, with fuel line and connectors
to join the tanks, and then put another tank on, and maybe
another small leading edge section. That would be my
bet.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
do not archive
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
>
> I did a little searching and found this:
> http://www.safeair1.com/HWA/HWA_top.htm
>
> Looks like extended tanks that go into the wing lightning holes and an
> electric transfer pump. Doesn't sound like this is what John Nys used
> though.
>
> Kent
> 40338
> Elevators
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php>
$10 for 3!
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Those fairings are in the Avery Tools web site, it's just not the best web site
to find stuff on . . .
TDT
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of William Curtis
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing
Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
$10 for 3!
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryRosen(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
Are the ones from Aircraft Spurce metal or plastic?
Larry
-------------- Original message --------------
Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
$10 for 3!
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
Are the ones from Aircraft Spurce metal or plastic?
Larry
-------------- Original message --------------
Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
$10 for 3!
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | FW: RV-List: 1st customer RV-10 flys! |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk"
>
>--> >John,
>
>(I'll apologize to the group in advance)
>
>You just have to watch out for the 10's that you see continually
>climbing, diving, climbing, diving. Talk about the RV Grin... :-)
>
Runaway trim?
I don't get it. ;)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
To further clarify, these are all metal cable fairings. They are labled Avery
and ironically, Aircraft Spruce gives you 3 for $10, while Avery gives you 2 for
$10. I'll take some pictures of the ones I purchase and post when I get a
chance.
> Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
> <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php>
>
> $10 for 3!
>
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
The even more funny part is what the heck would you do with three? 2,
4, or 6, maybe, but three?
-Sean
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William Curtis wrote:
> To further clarify, these are all metal cable fairings. They are
> labled Avery and ironically, Aircraft Spruce gives you 3 for $10,
> while Avery gives you 2 for $10. I'll take some pictures of the ones I
> purchase and post when I get a chance.
>
> > Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
> > <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php>
> >
> > $10 for 3!
> >
> William Curtis
> #40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com |
A little dimple help requested,
The elevators have an access plate where the trim cables come out. This
is dimpled and screwed into nutplates in the elevator. I dimpled with a
1/8 die set but when I lay the flush screw in the dimple, it seems to
stick up some. I couldn't find where it stated the dimple size needed
here. Does anyone remember what they used? Should I just keep going up
until I like the fit? Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
If I remember right, I dimpled it for a number 6 or 8 screw?
Rene'
N423CF
40322
Started Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dimple Question
A little dimple help requested,
The elevators have an access plate where the trim cables come out. This is
dimpled and screwed into nutplates in the elevator. I dimpled with a 1/8
die set but when I lay the flush screw in the dimple, it seems to stick up
some. I couldn't find where it stated the dimple size needed here. Does
anyone remember what they used? Should I just keep going up until I like
the fit? Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Personally, I would screw one of the three up! ;)
Do not archive
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
The even more funny part is what the heck would you do with three? 2, 4, or 6,
maybe, but three?
-Sean
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William Curtis wrote:
> To further clarify, these are all metal cable fairings. They are
> labled Avery and ironically, Aircraft Spruce gives you 3 for $10,
> while Avery gives you 2 for $10. I'll take some pictures of the ones I
> purchase and post when I get a chance.
>
> > Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
> > <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php>
> >
> > $10 for 3!
> >
> William Curtis
> #40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
Kent,
Get a Avery Tool catalog. It has a list of what size dimple dies and
counter sink bits you need for each type of screw.
Bobby Hughes
40116
Fus
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dimple Question
If I remember right, I dimpled it for a number 6 or 8 screw?
Rene'
N423CF
40322
Started Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dimple Question
A little dimple help requested,
The elevators have an access plate where the trim cables come out. This
is dimpled and screwed into nutplates in the elevator. I dimpled with a
1/8 die set but when I lay the flush screw in the dimple, it seems to
stick up some. I couldn't find where it stated the dimple size needed
here. Does anyone remember what they used? Should I just keep going up
until I like the fit? Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Dimple Question |
I'm sure you will get many replies on this, but for the Trim Tab cover screw holes
you need to use a #6 screw dimple die. The 1/8" (#30) dimple die won't do.
>The elevators have an access plate where the trim cables come out.
>This is dimpled and screwed into nutplates in the elevator. I
>dimpled with a 1/8 die set but when I lay the flush screw in the
>dimple, it seems to stick up some. I couldn't find where it stated
>the dimple size needed here. Does anyone remember what they used?
>Should I just keep going up until I like the fit? Thoughts?
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>Kent Forsythe
>
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
They were originally made for the 2 seaters which use 2 for the rudder
cables and 1 for the trim. Didn't you learn that in Van's History 101?
;-)
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>
> The even more funny part is what the heck would you do with
> three? 2, 4, or 6, maybe, but three?
>
> -Sean
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
What's a 2-seater? :)
-Sean
do not archive
Greg Young wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
>They were originally made for the 2 seaters which use 2 for the rudder
>cables and 1 for the trim. Didn't you learn that in Van's History 101?
>;-)
>
>Regards,
>Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
>Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>>
>>The even more funny part is what the heck would you do with
>>three? 2, 4, or 6, maybe, but three?
>>
>>-Sean
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
I used 4 of them.
Here is a picture of how I used them.
http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
The even more funny part is what the heck would you do with three? 2,
4, or 6, maybe, but three?
-Sean
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William Curtis wrote:
> To further clarify, these are all metal cable fairings. They are
> labled Avery and ironically, Aircraft Spruce gives you 3 for $10,
> while Avery gives you 2 for $10. I'll take some pictures of the ones I
> purchase and post when I get a chance.
>
> > Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
> > <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php>
> >
> > $10 for 3!
> >
> William Curtis
> #40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
They're the sporty ones doing barrel rolls around you:) You should show
some respect... The 2 seaters built the infrastructure that allows you
to bask in your matched-hole, comic book manual, snap-together
nirvana8
0
Greg (suffering just a bit of PP-envy)
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>
> What's a 2-seater? :)
>
> -Sean
> do not archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
Whatever...
Guess you can't say anything nowadays without someone getting their
feelings hurt. Or feeling as if they've been "disrespected". :(
-Sean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> What's a 2-seater? :)
It's that blur doing barrel rolls around you...ooops.
Hey, on the rudder fairings, do yourself a favor and epoxy/flox them on
instead of riveting. Looks much smoother, no need to fill pop rivet holes,
etc. I didn't know diddly about West System or composites when I installed
my rudder cable fairings on my -7. Wish I had just waited.
In fact, next time I'll just make 'em out of fiberglass, come to think of
it. Maybe one of these days I'll make a mold off the ones on my -7 and will
sell lightweight fiberglass ones for less than even Spruce. Hm....any
takers?
)_( Dan
RV-10 emp/tail kit on the way
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
Already got that comment... :)
Thanks for the tip. I'm not up to speed on molding fiberglass yet, but
I did use your suggested method of doing the seams. It worked great.
Thanks for all the info your site provides.
Sean #400303 (Waiting for wing kit to arrive)
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
>
>
>>What's a 2-seater? :)
>>
>>
>
>It's that blur doing barrel rolls around you...ooops.
>
>Hey, on the rudder fairings, do yourself a favor and epoxy/flox them on
>instead of riveting. Looks much smoother, no need to fill pop rivet holes,
>etc. I didn't know diddly about West System or composites when I installed
>my rudder cable fairings on my -7. Wish I had just waited.
>
>In fact, next time I'll just make 'em out of fiberglass, come to think of
>it. Maybe one of these days I'll make a mold off the ones on my -7 and will
>sell lightweight fiberglass ones for less than even Spruce. Hm....any
>takers?
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-10 emp/tail kit on the way
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "McGANN, Ron"
Hey Dan,
Do you plan on a -10 site? If so, I might just suspend building until you
get ahead and then follow your lead :-).
Ron
'187 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> What's a 2-seater? :)
It's that blur doing barrel rolls around you...ooops.
Hey, on the rudder fairings, do yourself a favor and epoxy/flox them on
instead of riveting. Looks much smoother, no need to fill pop rivet holes,
etc. I didn't know diddly about West System or composites when I installed
my rudder cable fairings on my -7. Wish I had just waited.
In fact, next time I'll just make 'em out of fiberglass, come to think of
it. Maybe one of these days I'll make a mold off the ones on my -7 and will
sell lightweight fiberglass ones for less than even Spruce. Hm....any
takers?
)_( Dan
RV-10 emp/tail kit on the way
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Michigan builders? |
Yep, just east of Jackson @ 26W. We are building two here at home....
Mike Kraus
N223RV - RV-4 Flying
N213RV - RV-10 - Working on wings......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | First flight profile |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp"
Tim Olson raises excellent questions regarding what to do on the first
flight. The question of needing to run a new engine at 75% or so and also
wanting to feel out a new airplane can definetly be in conflict.
I would think ground running should be minimized with only enough to verfy
engine systems are all OK and a short run to full power to verify that full
power can be reached.
High speed taxi and short lift-offs over the runway are difficult to do and
as Van recommends probably not a good thing.
On the first flight in my 4 the take-off was more of a challenge than the
landing. I was just not ready for the rate of acceleration even having
flown large high performance aircraft. In deference to the new engine and
the power to wieght ratios of Van's airplanes I would recommend applying
power slowly. On both the first flight of my own aircraft and another 4 we
made an initial climb at 110 KIAS or so to 4000 AGL, reduced power to
maintain 120-130 and circled the airport with gentle turns in both
directions. After 10-15 minutes gradual speed reductions were made down to
expected approach speed of around 60 KIAS to verify controlability and no
abnormal characteristics. This was followed by the landing. A qualified
chase airplane is a plus as long as he does present a distraction to the
test pilot.
Finally, a first flight test plan should be written, memorized, and followed
including emergency procedures. It may sound, silly but one of the best
techniques is to "chair fly" the flight profile and emergency procedures in
the airplane several times before the actual flight. Making engine noises
and simulated radio calls is optional. If something unusual happens on the
first flight you'll be glad you did the practice. It probably goes without
saying but on the first flight the only thing tested should be the airframe
and engine, leave investigation of any of the other systems like autopilots
and avionics testing until later flights. With all of the RVs flying today
it is easy to get some time in a right seat or better with a qualified
instructor.
Stepping off soap box. Congratulations to John N and good luck to all the
new test pilots.
Dick Sipp
RV10 40065
RV4 N250DS 660 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
Going thinner the further rearward I go.
That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
to get it sealed up quickly?
One misc. question...
I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
I currently think will be there are:
Main battery cable (1)
Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
Stobe wires going up to wings
Tail light wire
Elt control wires
Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
Trim wiring???
Anything I'm not thinking of?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | jerry petersen <bldanrv9a(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimple Question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: jerry petersen
The dies I use I have labeled as #21's.
--- matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
> A little dimple help requested,
>
>
>
> The elevators have an access plate where the trim
> cables come out. This
> is dimpled and screwed into nutplates in the
> elevator. I dimpled with a
> 1/8 die set but when I lay the flush screw in the
> dimple, it seems to
> stick up some. I couldn't find where it stated the
> dimple size needed
> here. Does anyone remember what they used? Should
> I just keep going up
> until I like the fit? Thoughts? Thanks in
> advance.
>
>
>
>
>
> Kent Forsythe
>
> 40338
>
> Elevators
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut"
I like to keep strobe power supply wires in their own run if possible. The
battery wire in its own run is also good. I may be going overkill here, but
might as well do three.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
Going thinner the further rearward I go.
That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
to get it sealed up quickly?
One misc. question...
I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
I currently think will be there are:
Main battery cable (1)
Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
Stobe wires going up to wings
Tail light wire
Elt control wires
Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
Trim wiring???
Anything I'm not thinking of?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut"
Buy a set of the dimple dies that are made for screws. Aircraft Spruce
sells a set with I believe number 6, 8, and 10 screw sizes. Give it a try
and you will really like the results a lot better.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerry petersen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimple Question
--> RV10-List message posted by: jerry petersen
The dies I use I have labeled as #21's.
--- matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com wrote:
> A little dimple help requested,
>
>
> The elevators have an access plate where the trim
> cables come out. This
> is dimpled and screwed into nutplates in the
> elevator. I dimpled with a
> 1/8 die set but when I lay the flush screw in the
> dimple, it seems to
> stick up some. I couldn't find where it stated the
> dimple size needed
> here. Does anyone remember what they used? Should
> I just keep going up
> until I like the fit? Thoughts? Thanks in
> advance.
>
>
> Kent Forsythe
>
> 40338
>
> Elevators
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
It's because they automatically assume you'll screw one of them up, and from
a business standpoint, it's a way to get more of your money!
As an aside, before you spend the money take a look at a lot of the old
timers RV rudder cable fairings. With a pair of hand seamers, a few minutes
and a couple scraps of .020" or something like that, you'll find you can
whip them suckers out (after screwing up a coupls) in no time flat.
A quick hint, make a few out of paper/cardboard first, then go to the metal.
Even though the "store bought ones" work very well, they take all the fun
out of it.....it's kind of nice to say "I made those things".
After all, with these "new fangled" pre-punched kits, how much stuff do you
get to fabricate anyway!
Just my worthless 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
The even more funny part is what the heck would you do with three? 2,
4, or 6, maybe, but three?
-Sean
DO NOT ARCHIVE
William Curtis wrote:
> To further clarify, these are all metal cable fairings. They are
> labled Avery and ironically, Aircraft Spruce gives you 3 for $10,
> while Avery gives you 2 for $10. I'll take some pictures of the ones I
> purchase and post when I get a chance.
>
> > Rudder Cable Fairing are also available from Aircraft Spruce:
> > <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/ruddercable.php>
> >
> > $10 for 3!
> >
> William Curtis
> #40237 - wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
| From: | "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Droopy Erickson"
Dan! Coming over to the 4-seat world! Can't wait to see this website...
As far as this fiberg.. Fibergl. Composit. I can't even say it, but this
talk has got to stop. Preaching anything but dimpling and riveting just
ain't allowed here... :)
John
#40208 Wings (and dreaming of a -8 to do rolls around my -10 with...)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder Cable Fairing
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> What's a 2-seater? :)
It's that blur doing barrel rolls around you...ooops.
Hey, on the rudder fairings, do yourself a favor and epoxy/flox them on
instead of riveting. Looks much smoother, no need to fill pop rivet
holes, etc. I didn't know diddly about West System or composites when I
installed my rudder cable fairings on my -7. Wish I had just waited.
In fact, next time I'll just make 'em out of fiberglass, come to think
of it. Maybe one of these days I'll make a mold off the ones on my -7
and will sell lightweight fiberglass ones for less than even Spruce.
Hm....any takers?
)_( Dan
RV-10 emp/tail kit on the way
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mani Ravee <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
Dan, wlcome to the _10 world. Before I started my project, you and your outstanding
website were a very valuable source of information and inspiration. Are you
going to add a chapter there about why a 10 now. :)
Anyway glad that you are in the camp.
Mani Ravee, MD
#40339, KUMP
(I was at Emery's too)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> What's a 2-seater? :)
It's that blur doing barrel rolls around you...ooops.
Hey, on the rudder fairings, do yourself a favor and epoxy/flox them on
instead of riveting. Looks much smoother, no need to fill pop rivet holes,
etc. I didn't know diddly about West System or composites when I installed
my rudder cable fairings on my -7. Wish I had just waited.
In fact, next time I'll just make 'em out of fiberglass, come to think of
it. Maybe one of these days I'll make a mold off the ones on my -7 and will
sell lightweight fiberglass ones for less than even Spruce. Hm....any
takers?
)_( Dan
RV-10 emp/tail kit on the way
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
seats? And power leads for them.
Dan
40269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
Going thinner the further rearward I go.
That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
to get it sealed up quickly?
One misc. question...
I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
I currently think will be there are:
Main battery cable (1)
Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
Stobe wires going up to wings
Tail light wire
Elt control wires
Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
Trim wiring???
Anything I'm not thinking of?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> Do you plan on a -10 site? If so, I might just suspend building until you
> get ahead and then follow your lead :-).
I'm not planning on putting my builder's log online this time. It takes far
too much time away from building. Looks like there are already several
decent RV-10 builder sites out there.
I'm building an RV-10 emp/tail kit which once completed will be up for sale.
If anybody is interested, contact me off-list (dan(at)rvproject.com).
After that's done I will eventually build an RV-10 start to finish and put
that up for sale. I'm not interested in flying the -10, but I do enjoy
building.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-10 emp/tail kit on the way
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
Those adhesive tie wrap mounts will eventually lose their "stick" and will
come off...I also noticed you didn't rough up the alclad where you stuck 'em
on. Hey, I did the same thing. A few hundred hours later, some had fallen
off. My 2 cents -- just use a gob of RTV or epoxy every so many inches to
hold your conduit in place and keep it from chafing against aluminum.
If something is allowed to flex at all, it will either eventually start
rubbing something or it will break.
For wiring, keep in mind stuff like remote external compass units, remote
sensors of various types for EFISs. Autopilot elevator servo wiring,
elevator trim servo wiring, etc.
Multiple paths for wiring is usually a good thing.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
> It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
> far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
> Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>
> That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
> in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
> and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
> to get it sealed up quickly?
>
> One misc. question...
>
> I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
> do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>
> Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
> be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
> I currently think will be there are:
>
> Main battery cable (1)
> Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
> Stobe wires going up to wings
> Tail light wire
> Elt control wires
> Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
> Trim wiring???
>
>
> Anything I'm not thinking of?
>
> Tim
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
My soundproofing didn't stink.
I'm sure it will go away over time. This is now how I rank the worst
smells of the project so far.
1. LaPuente Mexican Food (OK, it doesn't really count)
2. The glue that holds the windows in. WOW, this stuff is horrible.
3. Pro-Seal
4. The smell of burning fiberglass (cutting the top)
Scott Schmidt
USSynthetic Product Manager
1260 South 1600 West
Orem UT 84058
Phone: 801-235-9001
Fax: 801-235-9141
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
Going thinner the further rearward I go.
That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
to get it sealed up quickly?
One misc. question...
I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
I currently think will be there are:
Main battery cable (1)
Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
Stobe wires going up to wings
Tail light wire
Elt control wires
Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
Trim wiring???
Anything I'm not thinking of?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Fairing |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
"not interested in flying the -10" !!!! That's blasphemy in these
here parts. ;)
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
>>Do you plan on a -10 site? If so, I might just suspend building until you
>>get ahead and then follow your lead :-).
>
>
> I'm not planning on putting my builder's log online this time. It takes far
> too much time away from building. Looks like there are already several
> decent RV-10 builder sites out there.
>
> I'm building an RV-10 emp/tail kit which once completed will be up for sale.
> If anybody is interested, contact me off-list (dan(at)rvproject.com).
>
> After that's done I will eventually build an RV-10 start to finish and put
> that up for sale. I'm not interested in flying the -10, but I do enjoy
> building.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-10 emp/tail kit on the way
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>
> Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
> rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
> seats? And power leads for them.
> Dan
> 40269
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
> It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
> far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
> Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>
> That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
> in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
> and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
> to get it sealed up quickly?
>
> One misc. question...
>
> I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
> do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>
> Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
> be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
> I currently think will be there are:
>
> Main battery cable (1)
> Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
> Stobe wires going up to wings
> Tail light wire
> Elt control wires
> Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
> Trim wiring???
>
>
> Anything I'm not thinking of?
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
If you're going with the Aerocraft panel, is a good place for the rear
mic jacks on the back face of the center console?
-Sean #40303
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
> I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
> look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
> rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
> I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
> seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
> not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
> carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
> but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
>
> Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
>
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>>
>>
>> Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
>> rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
>> seats? And power leads for them. Dan
>> 40269
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>> Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
>> It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
>> far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
>> Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>>
>> That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
>> in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
>> and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
>> to get it sealed up quickly?
>>
>> One misc. question...
>>
>> I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
>> do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>>
>> Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
>> be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
>> I currently think will be there are:
>>
>> Main battery cable (1)
>> Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
>> Stobe wires going up to wings
>> Tail light wire
>> Elt control wires
>> Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
>> Trim wiring???
>>
>>
>> Anything I'm not thinking of?
>>
>> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
I think they also can put a power Jack there, so that would be good for
a portable DVD/?? Also can someone verify for me that a GMA 340 intercom
has passenger isolate? IE the two in back can be isolated from the two
in front? If they can not, can anyone recommend an intercom/audio panel
that will?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
If you're going with the Aerocraft panel, is a good place for the rear
mic jacks on the back face of the center console?
-Sean #40303
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
> I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
> look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
> rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
> I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
> seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
> not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
> carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
> but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
>
> Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
>
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>>
>>
>> Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
>> rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
>> seats? And power leads for them. Dan
>> 40269
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>> Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff
today.
>> It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
>> far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
>> Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>>
>> That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
>> in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
>> and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I
have
>> to get it sealed up quickly?
>>
>> One misc. question...
>>
>> I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
>> do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>>
>> Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
>> be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
>> I currently think will be there are:
>>
>> Main battery cable (1)
>> Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
>> Stobe wires going up to wings
>> Tail light wire
>> Elt control wires
>> Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
>> Trim wiring???
>>
>>
>> Anything I'm not thinking of?
>>
>> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
That would be a great place, but it's getting a little busy back there.
I'm adding a lighter socket, and music input jack. Then, since I'll
have a 6 place intercom, I'm adding one headset jack to that panel.
I'll have a total of 5 wired headset jacks. The 3rd in the rear will
be used for video camera use. I'll also wire a microphone jack next
to it, so it will be an optional place for a passenger to plug in.
Then, in addition I have ANR headsets and everywhere that I put a
headset jack will require 3 holes...one for the power plug. So
I figured I't put it this way:
Left Side: 3 holes for headset
Middle: 3 holes for headset, Lighter socket, music input
Right Side: 3 holes for headset
That's a little much to put all on that center console.
I'll look at it closer as I get more finished on the fuselage.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Sean Stephens wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>
> If you're going with the Aerocraft panel, is a good place for the rear
> mic jacks on the back face of the center console?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>> See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
>> I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
>> look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
>> rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
>> I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
>> seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
>> not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
>> carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
>> but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
>>
>> Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>>>
>>>
>>> Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
>>> rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
>>> seats? And power leads for them. Dan
>>> 40269
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
>>> To: RV10
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>
>>> Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff today.
>>> It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
>>> far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
>>> Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>>>
>>> That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
>>> in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
>>> and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I have
>>> to get it sealed up quickly?
>>>
>>> One misc. question...
>>>
>>> I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
>>> do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
>>> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>>>
>>> Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
>>> be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
>>> I currently think will be there are:
>>>
>>> Main battery cable (1)
>>> Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
>>> Stobe wires going up to wings
>>> Tail light wire
>>> Elt control wires
>>> Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
>>> Trim wiring???
>>>
>>>
>>> Anything I'm not thinking of?
>>>
>>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> I think they also can put a power Jack there, so that would be good for
> a portable DVD/?? Also can someone verify for me that a GMA 340 intercom
> has passenger isolate? IE the two in back can be isolated from the two
> in front? If they can not, can anyone recommend an intercom/audio panel
> that will?
Yep. It has two isolate modes...PILOT & CREW. It also has two separate
music/entertainment inputs. One for all occupants (minus isolate), and one
for just passengers.
At the risk of being a broken record about this -- if you use a GMA-340, be
sure to connect the jumper which enables the optional 20dB boost of the
music input (see the install manual). Makes all the difference in the
world.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend"
PS Engineering 7000
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
I think they also can put a power Jack there, so that would be good for
a portable DVD/?? Also can someone verify for me that a GMA 340 intercom
has passenger isolate? IE the two in back can be isolated from the two
in front? If they can not, can anyone recommend an intercom/audio panel
that will?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
If you're going with the Aerocraft panel, is a good place for the rear
mic jacks on the back face of the center console?
-Sean #40303
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
> I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
> look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
> rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
> I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
> seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
> not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
> carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
> but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
>
> Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
>
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>>
>>
>> Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
>> rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
>> seats? And power leads for them. Dan
>> 40269
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>> Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff
today.
>> It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
>> far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
>> Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>>
>> That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
>> in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
>> and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I
have
>> to get it sealed up quickly?
>>
>> One misc. question...
>>
>> I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
>> do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>>
>> Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
>> be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
>> I currently think will be there are:
>>
>> Main battery cable (1)
>> Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
>> Stobe wires going up to wings
>> Tail light wire
>> Elt control wires
>> Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
>> Trim wiring???
>>
>>
>> Anything I'm not thinking of?
>>
>> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
It's gonna be good having Dan around more often. I can tell already. :)
-Sean #40303
do not archive
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
>
>
>
>>I think they also can put a power Jack there, so that would be good for
>>a portable DVD/?? Also can someone verify for me that a GMA 340 intercom
>>has passenger isolate? IE the two in back can be isolated from the two
>>in front? If they can not, can anyone recommend an intercom/audio panel
>>that will?
>>
>>
>
>Yep. It has two isolate modes...PILOT & CREW. It also has two separate
>music/entertainment inputs. One for all occupants (minus isolate), and one
>for just passengers.
>
>At the risk of being a broken record about this -- if you use a GMA-340, be
>sure to connect the jumper which enables the optional 20dB boost of the
>music input (see the install manual). Makes all the difference in the
>world.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
I can't verify the GMA340 right now, but you really want
"pilot isolate" and "Crew isolate". That gives you single-pilot
isolation with all other seats talking, and front seat isolate
with rear seats still talking. My current bird has these features
and with kids, I consider it a priceless feature.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>
> I think they also can put a power Jack there, so that would be good for
> a portable DVD/?? Also can someone verify for me that a GMA 340 intercom
> has passenger isolate? IE the two in back can be isolated from the two
> in front? If they can not, can anyone recommend an intercom/audio panel
> that will?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 1:06 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>
> If you're going with the Aerocraft panel, is a good place for the rear
> mic jacks on the back face of the center console?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>>See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
>>I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
>>look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
>>rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
>>I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
>>seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
>>not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
>>carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
>>but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
>>
>>Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
>>
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>>>
>>>
>>>Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
>>>rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
>>>seats? And power leads for them. Dan
>>>40269
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
>>>To: RV10
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>
>>>Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff
>
> today.
>
>>>It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
>>>far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
>>>Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>>>
>>>That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
>>>in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
>>>and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I
>
> have
>
>>>to get it sealed up quickly?
>>>
>>>One misc. question...
>>>
>>>I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
>>>do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
>>>http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>>>
>>>Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
>>>be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
>>>I currently think will be there are:
>>>
>>>Main battery cable (1)
>>>Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
>>>Stobe wires going up to wings
>>>Tail light wire
>>>Elt control wires
>>>Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
>>>Trim wiring???
>>>
>>>
>>>Anything I'm not thinking of?
>>>
>>>Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Randy's inspection |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Well everything was good except 4 items. All were fixed last night and have rescheduled
the inspector to look at the completed items tomorrow. Because of bad
weather it looks good for Friday for first flight. I will use the time to finish
some details that didn't need to be done right away. I am planning on taking
photos of the few items that were needing attention. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Randy's inspection |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Can you list them for us?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Randy's inspection
Well everything was good except 4 items. All were fixed last night and
have rescheduled the inspector to look at the completed items tomorrow.
Because of bad weather it looks good for Friday for first flight. I will
use the time to finish some details that didn't need to be done right
away. I am planning on taking photos of the few items that were needing
attention. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt"
I would recommend looking at the PS Engineering. Everyone I have talked
with highly recommends it mainly for auto-squelching feature. It
apparently works perfect.
I am planning on using the 8000 model.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
I can't verify the GMA340 right now, but you really want
"pilot isolate" and "Crew isolate". That gives you single-pilot
isolation with all other seats talking, and front seat isolate
with rear seats still talking. My current bird has these features
and with kids, I consider it a priceless feature.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>
> I think they also can put a power Jack there, so that would be good
for
> a portable DVD/?? Also can someone verify for me that a GMA 340
intercom
> has passenger isolate? IE the two in back can be isolated from the two
> in front? If they can not, can anyone recommend an intercom/audio
panel
> that will?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
Stephens
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 1:06 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
>
> If you're going with the Aerocraft panel, is a good place for the rear
> mic jacks on the back face of the center console?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>>See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
>>I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
>>look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
>>rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
>>I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
>>seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
>>not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
>>carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
>>but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
>>
>>Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
>>
>>
>>Tim
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>
>>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>>>
>>>
>>>Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
>>>rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
>>>seats? And power leads for them. Dan
>>>40269
>>>
>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
>>>To: RV10
>>>Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>>>
>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>>
>>>Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff
>
> today.
>
>>>It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
>>>far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
>>>Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>>>
>>>That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
>>>in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
>>>and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I
>
> have
>
>>>to get it sealed up quickly?
>>>
>>>One misc. question...
>>>
>>>I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
>>>do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
>>>http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>>>
>>>Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
>>>be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
>>>I currently think will be there are:
>>>
>>>Main battery cable (1)
>>>Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
>>>Stobe wires going up to wings
>>>Tail light wire
>>>Elt control wires
>>>Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
>>>Trim wiring???
>>>
>>>
>>>Anything I'm not thinking of?
>>>
>>>Tim
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Randy's inspection |
Good luck Randy. Be safe! I think the fly-by's have just about been covered!! Mark.(40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Randy's inspection |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
But we haven't seen an inverted fly-by with a ribbon cut yet Randy!
(Do not archive)
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Randy's inspection
Good luck Randy. Be safe! I think the fly-by's have just about been
covered!! Mark.(40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Randy's inspection |
You bet. I know about most of them but was not able to get parts to fix them on
Sat or Sun.
First was no boots on the master contactor and positive battery post.
Second, no boot on the LH mag P lead. Rh not a problem because it is facing down
and nothing could sit on it and ground it out.
Third, some of you my have received the wrong width spacer for the wheel pants
mounting bracket. They were .100 to thick. I was going to change them when I
installed the wheel pants but one bolt ended up too short. We were able to get
to the one bolt head to hold it and change out to the thinner spacer with out
removing the wheels.
Forth, I was brain dead. No nut plates on the emp. to attach the fairing. I drilled
them last week and forgot to nut plate them this weekend. We were checking
the whole plane and just forgot.
All fixed with most of the interior installed. The complete interior will be in
tonight except the bulkhead (inspector needs to see the new boots on the battery
and master contactor). Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Randy's inspection
Can you list them for us?
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Randy's inspection
Well everything was good except 4 items. All were fixed last night and have rescheduled
the inspector to look at the completed items tomorrow. Because of bad
weather it looks good for Friday for first flight. I will use the time to finish
some details that didn't need to be done right away. I am planning on taking
photos of the few items that were needing attention. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Randy's inspection |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Thanks Mark. We have an air show at the Hillsboro airport every year. Last year
we had several fly-by's approved by the FAA. I will do mine then in front of
30,000 people. MUCH MORE EXPOSURE!!.. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Chamberlain
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Randy's inspection
Good luck Randy. Be safe! I think the fly-by's have just about been covered!! Mark.(40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Randy's inspection |
And I hope you won't. That would mean something went wrong and I went through
some construction caution tape. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Randy's inspection
But we haven't seen an inverted fly-by with a ribbon cut yet Randy!
(Do not archive)
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Chamberlain
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Randy's inspection
Good luck Randy. Be safe! I think the fly-by's have just about been covered!! Mark.(40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Michigan builders? |
Mike,
I'm in Waterford (KPTK) and would love to see your project sometime. I
fly into Jackson to that nice diner on the field sometimes...
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
N213RV(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Michigan builders?
Yep, just east of Jackson @ 26W. We are building two here at home....
Mike Kraus
N223RV - RV-4 Flying
N213RV - RV-10 - Working on wings......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight profile |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris"
Has any engine maker offered an engine "pre-broke-in"? Or if you opt for an
engine with some time you don't have to worry about break-in on the first
flights etc.
-Chris L
#40072
wings wings wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: First flight profile
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp"
>
>
> Tim Olson raises excellent questions regarding what to do on the first
> flight. The question of needing to run a new engine at 75% or so and
> also wanting to feel out a new airplane can definetly be in conflict.
>
> I would think ground running should be minimized with only enough to verfy
> engine systems are all OK and a short run to full power to verify that
> full power can be reached.
>
> High speed taxi and short lift-offs over the runway are difficult to do
> and as Van recommends probably not a good thing.
>
> On the first flight in my 4 the take-off was more of a challenge than the
> landing. I was just not ready for the rate of acceleration even having
> flown large high performance aircraft. In deference to the new engine and
> the power to wieght ratios of Van's airplanes I would recommend applying
> power slowly. On both the first flight of my own aircraft and another 4
> we made an initial climb at 110 KIAS or so to 4000 AGL, reduced power to
> maintain 120-130 and circled the airport with gentle turns in both
> directions. After 10-15 minutes gradual speed reductions were made down
> to expected approach speed of around 60 KIAS to verify controlability and
> no abnormal characteristics. This was followed by the landing. A
> qualified chase airplane is a plus as long as he does present a
> distraction to the test pilot.
>
> Finally, a first flight test plan should be written, memorized, and
> followed including emergency procedures. It may sound, silly but one of
> the best techniques is to "chair fly" the flight profile and emergency
> procedures in the airplane several times before the actual flight. Making
> engine noises and simulated radio calls is optional. If something unusual
> happens on the first flight you'll be glad you did the practice. It
> probably goes without saying but on the first flight the only thing tested
> should be the airframe and engine, leave investigation of any of the other
> systems like autopilots and avionics testing until later flights. With
> all of the RVs flying today it is easy to get some time in a right seat or
> better with a qualified instructor.
>
> Stepping off soap box. Congratulations to John N and good luck to all
> the new test pilots.
>
> Dick Sipp
> RV10 40065
> RV4 N250DS 660 hours
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor panels...
some got them, some didn't.
Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge things
under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per side.
K1000-3.
Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of 2.
I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was missing
4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
nutplates.
Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
out at the last minute.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]"
Yes, it does have passenger isolate. It also has two music inputs.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
I think they also can put a power Jack there, so that would be good for
a portable DVD/?? Also can someone verify for me that a GMA 340 intercom
has passenger isolate? IE the two in back can be isolated from the two
in front? If they can not, can anyone recommend an intercom/audio panel
that will?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens
If you're going with the Aerocraft panel, is a good place for the rear
mic jacks on the back face of the center console?
-Sean #40303
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> See now that's the kind of help I needed! :) Thanks Dan,
> I would have forgotten about static lines. I'll have to
> look closely at the headset jack plan...maybe that bar behind the
> rear seats wouldn't be a bad place, or many other various locations.
> I defnitely plan to have some sort of video screens on the front
> seatbacks, but I think it'll be driven by a portable unit...probably
> not a portable DVD player, but a hard drive based system. I currently
> carry a tablet PC and plug it into the car stereo. Works well,
> but I'd like more of a "monitor" type screen.
>
> Also good suggestions from Dan C. in the other post.
>
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R."
>>
>>
>> Are the static lines already run? How and where are you putting your
>> rear Headsets, and if you plan on a DVD player and displays for the
>> seats? And power leads for them. Dan
>> 40269
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 11:04 PM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing foam - and Stinky Stuff
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>>
>> Wow, I just got my soundproofing foam and 2 cans of Sticky Stuff
today.
>> It definitely does look like good stuff to put under the floor. So
>> far I got a 4'x4' square of 3 thicknesses....3/4", 1/2", and 3/8".
>> Going thinner the further rearward I go.
>>
>> That stuff though...the soundproofing, man it stinks. I laid it out
>> in the garage and it got to my throat worse than MEK, Toluene,
>> and even paint and primer. Does it eventually get better, or do I
have
>> to get it sealed up quickly?
>>
>> One misc. question...
>>
>> I'm about to close up the floors under the baggage area, and before I
>> do, I'm running conduit like Randy did on this page:
>> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/index.html
>>
>> Can anyone think of any reason why 2 tubes of 3/4" conduit wouldn't
>> be enough for all the wires that will run to the tail? The wires
>> I currently think will be there are:
>>
>> Main battery cable (1)
>> Strobe power supply wires (if mounting in tailcone)
>> Stobe wires going up to wings
>> Tail light wire
>> Elt control wires
>> Autopilot servo wiring for pitch servo
>> Trim wiring???
>>
>>
>> Anything I'm not thinking of?
>>
>> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me know if you
have and suggestions. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
Morning Tim:
Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that were
called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you have the
nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold the
brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side line i
changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
connection under left & right seat however there was much less bending of
the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a pic.
Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , still
figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only 1
conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How about
your panel ?
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor panels...
> some got them, some didn't.
>
> Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge things
> under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per side.
> K1000-3.
>
> Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of 2.
>
> I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was missing
> 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> nutplates.
>
> Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> out at the last minute.
>
> Tim
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
bollaert
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
Morning Tim:
Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that were
called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you have
the
nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold the
brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side line
i
changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
connection under left & right seat however there was much less bending
of
the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a pic.
Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
still
figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only 1
conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
about
your panel ?
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
panels...
> some got them, some didn't.
>
> Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
things
> under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per side.
> K1000-3.
>
> Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of 2.
>
> I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was missing
> 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> nutplates.
>
> Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> out at the last minute.
>
> Tim
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: My Checklist for the first flight. |
Randy,
1. You do not want to lean the engine on the first flight.
2. You need to run the engine pretty hard for the first number of hours.
Here is what I would do:
1. Take off and circle the airport while climbing to 3,000 ft - 5,000 ft
2. If you have some wind stay up wind of the airport.
3. Have another plane follow you with 2 people. The spare person in the
other plane can have a copy of your check list and can keep notes for later
review. You do not need the distraction of another plane too close so make sure
the other plane stays out of the way most of the time. The other plane can
also look for leaks, smoke, ....
4. Your engine monitor will record all the flight parameters so I would not
be to concerned about writing everything down.
5. I would keep the power up and if everything looks good I would fly it for
45 mins to 1 hour.
6. Download the flight data after the first flight.
If you need some help give me a call..
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I am modeling my check off list like the Cherokee's. One thing I have a
question on is fuel pump for take off. I notice you do not have it on,
is thee a reason? Anything to prevent fuel starvation close to the
ground. Several of the people I have flown RV's with always turn the
pump on for takeoff and landing.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me know
if you have and suggestions. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
That sounds close to my thoughts except for the other plane. I like the idea. Are
you willing to do that??? Please?
The leaning is for future use not this flight. Full rich is the order of the day.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Randy,
1. You do not want to lean the engine on the first flight.
2. You need to run the engine pretty hard for the first number of hours.
Here is what I would do:
1. Take off and circle the airport while climbing to 3,000 ft - 5,000 ft
2. If you have some wind stay up wind of the airport.
3. Have another plane follow you with 2 people. The spare person in the other
plane can have a copy of your check list and can keep notes for later review.
You do not need the distraction of another plane too close so make sure the
other plane stays out of the way most of the time. The other plane can also
look for leaks, smoke, ....
4. Your engine monitor will record all the flight parameters so I would not be
to concerned about writing everything down.
5. I would keep the power up and if everything looks good I would fly it for 45
mins to 1 hour.
6. Download the flight data after the first flight.
If you need some help give me a call..
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Found some good Conduit for running to tailcone |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
I've been wanting to get my conduit for my wire run to the tailcone
from the mid-fuse. Today I had a brilliant idea. I knew at work
we had InnerDuct for running fiberoptic cables for the network.
Randy said his .600" I.D./.700 O.D. tubing was pretty tight, and
bigger or dual per side would be better. At work, they had some
scrap InnerDuct with 1.05" I.D. and it was nice and soft and
plenum rated/UL listed stuff. Should be well over double the
volume through which to pull the wires.
I thought I'd post the info on the product here for the archives.
Here's a link:
http://www.carlon.com/Brochures/2F50-Plenum.pdf
Here's what's printed on it:
1" Carlon Pelnum-Gard CF4X 9P1222996B (UL)
"optical fiber/communication raceway" "Plenum"
There are many part numbers on this page for ordering different
sized rolls. It's not a low-quantity item, so you'd probably want
to scrounge some from someone who works at some big company who
has fiberoptic networking in their building. (Very common)
I'd assume ours is something like: CF4X1C-500. It even
comes with a 900lb rated pull string!
From this page, it looks like about .50cents/ft if you had to buy
it, but ours was actually a small amount of scrap left over from
a recent networking project.
http://www.fourpts.com/gsa4.html
This page shows a little better photo:
http://www.ezalarms.com/ezStore123/DTProductZoom.asp?productID=10029
I'll post some photos soon once I drill out my holes and
run the stuff. It's very nice, because the stuff from
the home store (Menards..around here) is very stiff and hard plastic
even though it's corrugated. I'm sure the Blue stuff I had bought
would actually be able to be cracked under certain situations.
This stuff is softer, very much like Van's conduit and being
corrugated, it's nice and flexible. Very light weight too.
Just wanted to post that find to give any conduit-seekers another
thing to think about.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the fuel pump
on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies if you use the fuel
pump except for starting. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am modeling my check off list like the Cherokee's. One thing I have a question
on is fuel pump for take off. I notice you do not have it on, is thee a reason?
Anything to prevent fuel starvation close to the ground. Several of the people
I have flown RV's with always turn the pump on for takeoff and landing.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me know if you
have and suggestions. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Would like to hear from another QB Fuselage RV-10 builder as to
if they learned what to do about this:
My QB fuse was shipped with a big, long green metal pipe running
all the way through the fuselage from one side to the other, where
the steps attach. Here's a photo:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050508/RV200505070010.html
In the plans, they show the nylon block on one of the outer ribs,
and then a piece of tubing about 12" long to a nylon block on the
next rib inward under the baggage floor. You can see that the
nylon block is on mine too, but my pipe just goes all the way
through and across.
Is that bar just for shipping, and we're supposed to remove it,
and just install the steps, or is that a plans change, or do
we have to cut it to the proper length?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
Hello Bob:
Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more you
bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult to
get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>
>
> Morning Tim:
>
> Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that were
> called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you have
> the
> nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold the
> brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side line
> i
> changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> connection under left & right seat however there was much less bending
> of
> the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a pic.
>
> Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> still
> figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only 1
> conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> about
> your panel ?
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10"
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> panels...
> > some got them, some didn't.
> >
> > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
> things
> > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per side.
> > K1000-3.
> >
> > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of 2.
> >
> > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was missing
> > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> > nutplates.
> >
> > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> > out at the last minute.
> >
> > Tim
> > --
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw"
Brian you and I were on the same track. I put an additional connection just outside
the center ribs under each seat. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of brian bollaert
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
Hello Bob:
Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more you
bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult to
get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>
>
> Morning Tim:
>
> Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that were
> called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you have
> the
> nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold the
> brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side line
> i
> changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> connection under left & right seat however there was much less bending
> of
> the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a pic.
>
> Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> still
> figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only 1
> conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> about
> your panel ?
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10"
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> panels...
> > some got them, some didn't.
> >
> > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
> things
> > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per side.
> > K1000-3.
> >
> > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of 2.
> >
> > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was missing
> > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> > nutplates.
> >
> > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> > out at the last minute.
> >
> > Tim
> > --
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: My Checklist for the first flight. |
The fuel system on the Continental is totally different from the IO-540. In
my RV-4 I always use the boost pump for take off and landing. If you lose
the mechanical pump on takeoff will the engine continue to run without the
boost pump? I would also think that the probability of a pump failure is higher
on a new engine pump then on one that has 100 hours on it?
Why not use the boost pump on takeoff?
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
Tim,
The pipe doesn't exist on the SB. The pipe portion of the step goes
through the skin and weldment and then ends just after going through the
nylon block. There's a single bolt that is match drilled through a hole
in the weldment that holds it in place. The steps that I got were a
single piece for each side and the pipe section was about 12" long (part
that goes into the fuselage). The pipe section was a very snug fit in
the weldment - no way you could install with anything else there. I
suspect that the long pipe in yours if for shipping unless there was a
change to the design of the steps.
I've a picture that I'll send offline that shows mine.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
Would like to hear from another QB Fuselage RV-10 builder as to
if they learned what to do about this:
My QB fuse was shipped with a big, long green metal pipe running
all the way through the fuselage from one side to the other, where
the steps attach. Here's a photo:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050508/RV200505070010.html
In the plans, they show the nylon block on one of the outer ribs,
and then a piece of tubing about 12" long to a nylon block on the
next rib inward under the baggage floor. You can see that the
nylon block is on mine too, but my pipe just goes all the way
through and across.
Is that bar just for shipping, and we're supposed to remove it,
and just install the steps, or is that a plans change, or do
we have to cut it to the proper length?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Napoli, Nikolaos (Contr)" <nikolaos.napoli(at)ngc.com> |
That looks like a good list.
Good luck to you.
Niko
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me know if you
have and suggestions. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
Thanks, I'm just about to tackle that.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
bollaert
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
Hello Bob:
Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
you
bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
to
get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>
>
> Morning Tim:
>
> Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
were
> called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
have
> the
> nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
the
> brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
line
> i
> changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> connection under left & right seat however there was much less
bending
> of
> the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
pic.
>
> Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> still
> figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
1
> conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> about
> your panel ?
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10"
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> panels...
> > some got them, some didn't.
> >
> > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
> things
> > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
side.
> > K1000-3.
> >
> > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
2.
> >
> > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
missing
> > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that
> > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
> > nutplates.
> >
> > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
> > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things
> > out at the last minute.
> >
> > Tim
> > --
> > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> > Current project: Fuselage
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
5/17/2005
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I will see what happens when I run the engine next time. You are correct that
the fuel systems are different. I will call Tom and see what the normal is for
the IO 540. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of RobHickman(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
The fuel system on the Continental is totally different from the IO-540. In my
RV-4 I always use the boost pump for take off and landing. If you lose the mechanical
pump on takeoff will the engine continue to run without the boost pump?
I would also think that the probability of a pump failure is higher on a
new engine pump then on one that has 100 hours on it?
Why not use the boost pump on takeoff?
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Strontium Chromate |
I have a QB kit, that comes primed withwhat I believe is a Sherwin Williams primer.
Can anybody advise whether I can touch up with a Strontium Chromate primer.
What are the rest of you QB builders doing.
Dave Emond
40159
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Checklist for the first flight. |
My Checklist for the first flight.Sounds like something is wrong within the fuel
system of 220RV. What happens if the engine driven pump fails in flight and
turning on the electric one kills the engine ??? No bypass for excess electric
fuel pump pressure ?? Is 220RV carb or Injected ?? IF carb, it sounds like
the excess pressure is overriding the float cutoff (or thru primer system) &
flooding the engine. IF FI, check for internal leak(s) in the "spider". (That
has to be done at a "Repair Station" and costs LOTS of money. BUT worth every
penny.) KABONG Do Not Archive N561FS IO-540 250HP HRII
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the fuel pump
on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies if you use the
fuel pump except for starting. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:59 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Or is it the combination of engine driven pump and electric pump is flooding the
engine?
TDT
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Sounds like something is wrong within the fuel system of 220RV. What happens if
the engine driven pump fails in flight and turning on the electric one kills
the engine ??? No bypass for excess electric fuel pump pressure ?? Is 220RV
carb or Injected ?? IF carb, it sounds like the excess pressure is overriding
the float cutoff (or thru primer system) & flooding the engine. IF FI, check
for internal leak(s) in the "spider". (That has to be done at a "Repair Station"
and costs LOTS of money. BUT worth every penny.) KABONG Do Not Archive
N561FS IO-540 250HP HRII
From: Randy <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com> DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the fuel pump
on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies if you use the fuel
pump except for starting. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
I need to check that out next time I fire it up. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Or is it the combination of engine driven pump and electric pump is flooding the
engine?
TDT
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Sounds like something is wrong within the fuel system of 220RV. What happens if
the engine driven pump fails in flight and turning on the electric one kills
the engine ??? No bypass for excess electric fuel pump pressure ?? Is 220RV
carb or Injected ?? IF carb, it sounds like the excess pressure is overriding
the float cutoff (or thru primer system) & flooding the engine. IF FI, check
for internal leak(s) in the "spider". (That has to be done at a "Repair Station"
and costs LOTS of money. BUT worth every penny.) KABONG Do Not Archive
N561FS IO-540 250HP HRII
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the fuel pump
on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies if you use the fuel
pump except for starting. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
You have your boost pump turned on for take off, but there is nothing beyond
that saying to turn it off for cruise. You also leave out turning it on
prior to landing. If an IO engine, and I have only flown the 540 in
Cessnas, so the tank feed situation is obviously different, but you might
not want the boost pump on too long. What do they do for the company -10?
I know for the Piper's I've flown the pump is turned on just before take
off, but off after you've established a good climb.
John Jessen
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me know if
you have and suggestions. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Checklist for the first flight. |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for
starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill
it if you turn it on in the air.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Randy DeBauw wrote:
> That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the
> fuel pump on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies
> if you use the fuel pump except for starting. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Lloyd,
> Daniel R.
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:59 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
>
> I am modeling my check off list like the Cherokee's. One thing I
> have a question on is fuel pump for take off. I notice you do not
> have it on, is thee a reason? Anything to prevent fuel starvation
> close to the ground. Several of the people I have flown RV's with
> always turn the pump on for takeoff and landing.
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy
> DeBauw
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:37 AM
> *To:* Rv10-List (E-mail)
> *Subject:* RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
>
> I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me
> know if you have and suggestions. Randy <>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
It must be all KABONGed up. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Sounds like something is wrong within the fuel system of 220RV. What happens if
the engine driven pump fails in flight and turning on the electric one kills
the engine ??? No bypass for excess electric fuel pump pressure ?? Is 220RV
carb or Injected ?? IF carb, it sounds like the excess pressure is overriding
the float cutoff (or thru primer system) & flooding the engine. IF FI, check
for internal leak(s) in the "spider". (That has to be done at a "Repair Station"
and costs LOTS of money. BUT worth every penny.) KABONG Do Not Archive
N561FS IO-540 250HP HRII
From: Randy <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com> DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the fuel pump
on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies if you use the fuel
pump except for starting. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
Is it just me? I seem to be getting various posts in odd order. This one
below came in to my box after it was already answered.
John Jessen
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Randy,
1. You do not want to lean the engine on the first flight.
2. You need to run the engine pretty hard for the first number of hours.
Here is what I would do:
1. Take off and circle the airport while climbing to 3,000 ft - 5,000 ft
2. If you have some wind stay up wind of the airport.
3. Have another plane follow you with 2 people. The spare person in the
other plane can have a copy of your check list and can keep notes for later
review. You do not need the distraction of another plane too close so make
sure the other plane stays out of the way most of the time. The other
plane can also look for leaks, smoke, ....
4. Your engine monitor will record all the flight parameters so I would not
be to concerned about writing everything down.
5. I would keep the power up and if everything looks good I would fly it
for 45 mins to 1 hour.
6. Download the flight data after the first flight.
If you need some help give me a call..
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
Ah....Jeopardy order
Kent
40338
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Is it just me? I seem to be getting various posts in odd order. This
one below came in to my box after it was already answered.
John Jessen
Do not archive
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RobHickman(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:59 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Randy,
1. You do not want to lean the engine on the first flight.
2. You need to run the engine pretty hard for the first number
of hours.
Here is what I would do:
1. Take off and circle the airport while climbing to 3,000 ft -
5,000 ft
2. If you have some wind stay up wind of the airport.
3. Have another plane follow you with 2 people. The spare
person in the other plane can have a copy of your check list and can
keep notes for later review. You do not need the distraction of another
plane too close so make sure the other plane stays out of the way most
of the time. The other plane can also look for leaks, smoke, ....
4. Your engine monitor will record all the flight parameters so
I would not be to concerned about writing everything down.
5. I would keep the power up and if everything looks good I
would fly it for 45 mins to 1 hour.
6. Download the flight data after the first flight.
If you need some help give me a call..
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
--- MIME Errors ---
A message with no text/plain section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using plaintext formatting.
NOTE! This error can also occur when the poster of the
message has a specific type of computer virus. This virus
WAS NOT forwarded on to the List. The poster should be
informed of the potential problem with their system as soon
as possible.
--- MIME Errors ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave & Brenda Emond"
This pipe is only for shipping purposes, however my steps don't line up with
the nylon blocks. I still need to investigate further, possible that these
blocks need to be re- orientated to get the alignment right.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Would like to hear from another QB Fuselage RV-10 builder as to
> if they learned what to do about this:
>
> My QB fuse was shipped with a big, long green metal pipe running
> all the way through the fuselage from one side to the other, where
> the steps attach. Here's a photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050508/RV200505070010.html
>
> In the plans, they show the nylon block on one of the outer ribs,
> and then a piece of tubing about 12" long to a nylon block on the
> next rib inward under the baggage floor. You can see that the
> nylon block is on mine too, but my pipe just goes all the way
> through and across.
>
> Is that bar just for shipping, and we're supposed to remove it,
> and just install the steps, or is that a plans change, or do
> we have to cut it to the proper length?
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Checklist for the first flight. |
My Checklist for the first flight.Do you have a fuel injection pump (25-30 psi)
in a carbureted system (4-6 psi)?
kabong
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the fuel pump
on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies if you use the
fuel pump except for starting. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:59 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am modeling my check off list like the Cherokee's. One thing I have a question
on is fuel pump for take off. I notice you do not have it on, is thee a
reason? Anything to prevent fuel starvation close to the ground. Several of the
people I have flown RV's with always turn the pump on for takeoff and landing.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:37 AM
To: Rv10-List (E-mail)
Subject: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me know if
you have and suggestions. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Checklist for the first flight. |
My Checklist for the first flight.If it was KABONGed, it would run perfect & run
forever.
"If life give you nothing but lemons, make lemonade."
KABONG 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
It must be all KABONGed up. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
Tim:
just remove it , its for shipping best i could figure , then just put the
step legs in .
brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Would like to hear from another QB Fuselage RV-10 builder as to
> if they learned what to do about this:
>
> My QB fuse was shipped with a big, long green metal pipe running
> all the way through the fuselage from one side to the other, where
> the steps attach. Here's a photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050508/RV200505070010.html
>
> In the plans, they show the nylon block on one of the outer ribs,
> and then a piece of tubing about 12" long to a nylon block on the
> next rib inward under the baggage floor. You can see that the
> nylon block is on mine too, but my pipe just goes all the way
> through and across.
>
> Is that bar just for shipping, and we're supposed to remove it,
> and just install the steps, or is that a plans change, or do
> we have to cut it to the proper length?
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Checklist for the first flight. |
RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote:
> Randy,
>
> 1. You do not want to lean the engine on the first flight.
Yes you do, if you're breaking in a new engine ..... especially on 100
Lotsa Lead
> 2. You need to run the engine pretty hard for the first number of hours.
True! Run the crap out of it until the oil consumption goes somewhat
flat. You want the cylinder pressures as high as you can get them to
seat the rings. I run mogas and still lean on the ground, in climb,
cruise, and descent. Do not worry about harming your engine. The
periods of non-use will cause more damage than stressing the engine.
Do, however, pay close attention to CHTs and EGTs and keep them under
control.
> Here is what I would do:
>
> 1. Take off and circle the airport while climbing to 3,000 ft - 5,000
> ft
>
> 2. If you have some wind stay up wind of the airport.
>
> 3. Have another plane follow you with 2 people. The spare person in
> the other plane can have a copy of your check list and can keep notes
> for later review. You do not need the distraction of another plane
> too close so make sure the other plane stays out of the way most of
> the time. The other plane can also look for leaks, smoke, ....
>
> 4. Your engine monitor will record all the flight parameters so I
> would not be to concerned about writing everything down.
>
> 5. I would keep the power up and if everything looks good I would fly
> it for 45 mins to 1 hour.
>
> 6. Download the flight data after the first flight.
>
> If you need some help give me a call..
>
> Rob Hickman
All good suggestions. My first flight (in an S-1 Pitts) lasted an hour
..... probably because I was scared to come down since I'd heard nothing
but horror stories about how a Pitts wants to groundloop. :-P
My only addition to the 6 items (you didn't include any airwork .....
that I saw) would be to fly the whole envelope from slow speed and
stalls to high speed handling. Leave accelerated stalls for some other
time. Also run the trim from one extreme to the other is slow/fast flight.
Oh yeah, enjoy the flight. It appears that it'll be a non-event!!!
Linn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
The blocks actually have a slight angle on one face and are therefore
directional. I would think that a pipe through both blocks and
weldments would guarantee alignment, but it's possible I suppose that
the blocks got rotated before bolting in.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda
Emond
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Dave & Brenda Emond"
This pipe is only for shipping purposes, however my steps don't line up
with
the nylon blocks. I still need to investigate further, possible that
these
blocks need to be re- orientated to get the alignment right.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Big pipe through QB Fuselage step area
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Would like to hear from another QB Fuselage RV-10 builder as to
> if they learned what to do about this:
>
> My QB fuse was shipped with a big, long green metal pipe running
> all the way through the fuselage from one side to the other, where
> the steps attach. Here's a photo:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050508/RV200505070010.html
>
> In the plans, they show the nylon block on one of the outer ribs,
> and then a piece of tubing about 12" long to a nylon block on the
> next rib inward under the baggage floor. You can see that the
> nylon block is on mine too, but my pipe just goes all the way
> through and across.
>
> Is that bar just for shipping, and we're supposed to remove it,
> and just install the steps, or is that a plans change, or do
> we have to cut it to the proper length?
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Wiring kit from Van's |
| From: | "Strickland, L Jearl" <LJS2(at)pge.com> |
Greetings...
Does anyone have any input on the wiring kit that Van's offers for $560?
thanks....Jearl Strickland # 214 "fuselage"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Checklist for the first flight. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
IO 540. I will be amending my Checklist. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JOHN STARN
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
Do you have a fuel injection pump (25-30 psi) in a carbureted system (4-6 psi)?
kabong
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
That comes from the transition training in 410RV. We didn't use the fuel pump
on it. Any thoughts Rob? By the way on 220RV the engine dies if you use the fuel
pump except for starting. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am modeling my check off list like the Cherokee's. One thing I have a question
on is fuel pump for take off. I notice you do not have it on, is thee a reason?
Anything to prevent fuel starvation close to the ground. Several of the people
I have flown RV's with always turn the pump on for takeoff and landing.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: My Checklist for the first flight.
I am sending and copy of my checklist for the first flight. Let me know if you
have and suggestions. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Check list updated |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations
in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot.
Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed
my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning.
Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Check list updated |
What's the first flight equivalent of wishing an actor well on opening
night? Instead of "break a leg" I guess, "bend a prop" ?
Anyway, best of luck!
John
Do not archive
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op
Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a
lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I
have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours
without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the
comments. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert St.Denis" <rob(at)iahu.ca> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert St.Denis"
I'm curious if anyone has the specs with regards to the flaps
deflection
span (single flap)
area (single flap)
tnx a bunch guys
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check list updated |
In my family, the send off for driving home home is not "be safe" or
anything like that. We say "Drive fast!"
So, how about "Fly fast!"
mg
John Jessen wrote:
> What's the first flight equivalent of wishing an actor well on opening
> night? Instead of "break a leg" I guess, "bend a prop" ?
>
> Anyway, best of luck!
>
> John
>
> Do not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sheldon Olesen <saolesen(at)sirentel.net> |
| Subject: | Defroster, construction sequence |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sheldon Olesen
Has anyone got a good solution for windshield defroster. This
probably not a high priority for you guys down south but in
northwestern WI it is.
I've been thinking some kind of flapper valve off the heat duct by the
rudder pedals and a hose going up to the wind shield with a diffuser
penetrating the fuse skin. I really hate the idea of making a hole in
the skin. I haven't checked with Van's to find out if the hole is OK.
Are there any better ideas?
One other question for the guy who are nearly finished. Is there a
construction sequence with regard to wiring, painting, engine install,
upholstery, etc that worked well for you? By that I mean, the most
efficient with the least amount of assembly and disassembly possible.
In hind sight what would you change?
Sheldon Olesen
#40080 Cabin cover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Almost done question |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs"
There was a short list of people that were getting "finished" a while back. Does
anyone know the mix of QB vs SB in that list.
Just curious.
I was wondering how the QB group is faring, as to getting almost done. Since there
was a delay in QB shipping getting underway. Clearly the SB builders had
a little bit of a head start.
Thanks, Jim C
#40192 (Uloaded the Fuse kit yesterday! - What a BOX!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Check list updated |
Check list updatedHow about don't forget the parachute! And have fun!
Chris Lucas
#40072
wings wings wings
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jessen
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 7:21 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Check list updated
What's the first flight equivalent of wishing an actor well on opening night?
Instead of "break a leg" I guess, "bend a prop" ?
Anyway, best of luck!
John
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 4:01 PM
To: Rv10-List (E-mail)
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations
in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot.
Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have
changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without
leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments.
Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? |
I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540) does not
look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I have 2 separate heat
shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a 3-to-1 at the other. Of course
there are 2 flanges on the side of each shroud for in/out scat tubes. These
shrouds appear to have been made to run longitudinally alongside the induction
system. The intructions show one big shroud positioned laterally aft of
the induction system with only one tail pipe. I haven't trial fitted them on
the engine yet because without an achilles tendon on one leg does not allow me
to do much. I also have taken a lot of pain killer which makes me woozie but
I'm sure I don't have the right exhaust system.
Anh
#141
(Finish kit on standby)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: rattle can primer |
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill
> Sherwin Williams 988 is very good stuff for a "rattle can". Special nozzle
> that sprays very well.
> If you go to any NAPA auto store, they carry Dupli-Color DAP 1690 >
Self-Etching Primer for $5.95. It is great stuff and I use if for small
> parts when I do not want to mix up the two part stuff.
Thanks all for the advice on where to find the primer.
I went to a local Sherwin Williams outlet store in Chapel Hill after
work tonight, and was told they do not carry it at that location.
I went to Autozone, and found the empty shelf with the label
for the Dupli-Color 1690. I went to Walmart and found
nothing... *grin*
So, I ordered 4 cans of SW 988 from their web store.
Should hopefully be here soon. Now I guess I have to learn
the best technique for using a spray can - haven't used
one in years. Pointy end of the can goes away from
you - okay, got it! :-)
Thanks again,
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Check list updated |
Randy, it is one of those moments in life. Just like the day we all solo'ed.
Proud were we, eh? Not a thing in the mortal world could touch us. We were
"pilots". We could take off, do the pattern and land. Oh, what a beautiful
thing! Nothing else mattered.
I have to leave @ 4AM to fly (commercial) to San Diego for our annual Chest
Physician's Conference. I will be the only one presenting a paper from my
Alma Mator: Indiana University/Purdue University. Will be away for a whole
week.
Trust me when I tell you this. I just returned from a combat zone after
facing a LOT of action.
Prepare for all. And leave nothing to chance. If chance were to happen, you
are in control.
I know you are there. Good luck to you, my friend. Part of my conscious mind
will be with you.
I am taking my laptop and will be following.
Mani
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op
Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a
lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I
have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours
without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the
comments. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Check list updated |
Thanks.. I think. Randy
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Check list updated
What's the first flight equivalent of wishing an actor well on opening night?
Instead of "break a leg" I guess, "bend a prop" ?
Anyway, best of luck!
John
Do not archive
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 4:01 PM
To: Rv10-List (E-mail)
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
=09
=09
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op
Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies
a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I
have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without
leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments.
Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Anh, you got the Vetterman. I have the Aerospace something. Vetterman is what
Doug Pederson has. I think 410RV has the Vetterman on it now. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540) does not
look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I have 2 separate heat
shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a 3-to-1 at the other. Of course
there are 2 flanges on the side of each shroud for in/out scat tubes. These
shrouds appear to have been made to run longitudinally alongside the induction
system. The intructions show one big shroud positioned laterally aft of
the induction system with only one tail pipe. I haven't trial fitted them on
the engine yet because without an achilles tendon on one leg does not allow me
to do much. I also have taken a lot of pain killer which makes me woozie but
I'm sure I don't have the right exhaust system.
Anh
#141
(Finish kit on standby)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Check list updated |
Thank you for the kind words. I will be keeping everyone up to date. Randy
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Mani Ravee |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Check list updated
Randy, it is one of those moments in life. Just like the day we all solo'ed. Proud
were we, eh? Not a thing in the mortal world could touch us. We were "pilots".
We could take off, do the pattern and land. Oh, what a beautiful thing! Nothing
else mattered.
I have to leave @ 4AM to fly (commercial) to San Diego for our annual Chest Physician's
Conference. I will be the only one presenting a paper from my Alma Mator:
Indiana University/Purdue University. Will be away for a whole week.
Trust me when I tell you this. I just returned from a combat zone after facing
a LOT of action.
Prepare for all. And leave nothing to chance. If chance were to happen, you are
in control.
I know you are there. Good luck to you, my friend. Part of my conscious mind will
be with you.
I am taking my laptop and will be following.
Mani
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations
in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot.
Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed
my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning.
Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy
<>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air,
I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$%
& confused about
what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some
Rustoleum.
Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take.
The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the
minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This
saves time all around, as well as weight.
The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime,
and shoot everything.
The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of
some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or
the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever
more using something like AKZO.
I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra time
and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving
up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the
road. My question has to do with preparation. I'd rather use something
that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to
all the trouble, I don't want to use something unproven. I realize there
are no correct answers, but would very much appreciate any input in terms of
either effectiveness given your experience or knowledge of such things, or
the ease of preparation and clean up.
Thanks in advance,
John Jessen
-> Empcone (2%)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated
Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op
Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight.
Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a
lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I
have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours
without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the
comments. Randy <>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? |
Which is "better" to have? Is there a choice or not?
TDT
40025
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Anh, you got the Vetterman. I have the Aerospace something. Vetterman is what
Doug Pederson has. I think 410RV has the Vetterman on it now. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540) does not
look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I have 2 separate heat
shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a 3-to-1 at the other. Of course
there are 2 flanges on the side of each shroud for in/out scat tubes. These
shrouds appear to have been made to run longitudinally alongside the induction
system. The intructions show one big shroud positioned laterally aft of
the induction system with only one tail pipe. I haven't trial fitted them on
the engine yet because without an achilles tendon on one leg does not allow me
to do much. I also have taken a lot of pain killer which makes me woozie but
I'm sure I don't have the right exhaust system.
Anh
#141
(Finish kit on standby)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "DejaVu"
Randy implied that 410RV made a change so I hope that it was for the better.
Only thing I can imagine that would improve is better access to the back of
the engine. I would like to have a set of install instructions for the
Vetterman vice the other one though.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)Avidyne.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Which is "better" to have? Is there a choice or not?
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
Anh, you got the Vetterman. I have the Aerospace something. Vetterman is
what Doug Pederson has. I think 410RV has the Vetterman on it now. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540) does
not look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I have 2
separate heat shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a 3-to-1 at the
other. Of course there are 2 flanges on the side of each shroud for in/out
scat tubes. These shrouds appear to have been made to run longitudinally
alongside the induction system. The intructions show one big shroud
positioned laterally aft of the induction system with only one tail pipe. I
haven't trial fitted them on the engine yet because without an achilles
tendon on one leg does not allow me to do much. I also have taken a lot of
pain killer which makes me woozie but I'm sure I don't have the right
exhaust system.
Anh
#141
(Finish kit on standby)
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
Brian,
Were you able to post the pic? If so, where?
Thanks.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
bollaert
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
Hello Bob:
Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more
you
bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult
to
get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon .
Brian Bollaert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>
> I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the
> motivation simply to reduce the number of bends?
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian
> bollaert
> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert"
>
>
> Morning Tim:
>
> Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that
were
> called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you
have
> the
> nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold
the
> brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side
line
> i
> changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more
> connection under left & right seat however there was much less
bending
> of
> the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a
pic.
>
> Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc ,
> still
> figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only
1
> conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How
> about
> your panel ?
>
> Brian Bollaert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To: "RV10"
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
>
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
> >
> > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage...
> > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor
> panels...
> > some got them, some didn't.
> >
May 12, 2005 - May 19, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ag