RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ah

May 19, 2005 - May 23, 2005



      > > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge
      > things
      > > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per
      side.
      > > K1000-3.
      > >
      > > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of
      2.
      > >
      > > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was
      missing
      > > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2.  It's also possible that
      > > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these
      > > nutplates.
      > >
      > > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to
      > > verify you have enough of.  I always hate finding these things
      > > out at the last minute.
      > >
      > > Tim
      > > -- 
      > > Tim Olson -- RV-10  #170
      > > Current project: Fuselage
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > -- 
      5/17/2005
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      > -- 
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Buhwana <buhwana(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
Tim, Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after checking it depended on the model year! tom (soon to be an Rver On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for > starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill > it if you turn it on in the air. > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > Current project: Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Ready to Prime
John, Take a look at my photos on Tim's site. WWW.MYRV10.Com. You will see what PPG 1791 looks like. It is very light, dries quick, 20 min. 1 1/2 gal will do the whole plane. Before you prime just wipe clean with Acetone and shoot. Randy -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% & confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some Rustoleum. Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This saves time all around, as well as weight. The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime, and shoot everything. The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation. I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of preparation and clean up. Thanks in advance, John Jessen -> Empcone (2%) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight. Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy <> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: LarryRosen(at)comcast.net
Subject: Ready to Prime
What are you quick builders doing? Are you just leaving Vans assembled parts as is and then priming all the additional parts? Larry QB Wings on the way -------------- Original message -------------- John, Take a look at my photos on Tim's site. WWW.MYRV10.Com. You will see what PPG 1791 looks like. It is very light, dries quick, 20 min. 1 1/2 gal will do the whole plane. Before you prime just wipe clean with Acetone and shoot. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% & confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some Rustoleum. Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This saves time all around, as well as weight. The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime, and shoot everything. The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation. I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of preparation and clean up. Thanks in advance, John Jessen -> Empcone (2%) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight. Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy <> What are you quick builders doing? Are you just leaving Vans assembled parts as is and then priming all the additional parts? Larry QB Wings on the way -------------- Original message -------------- John, Take a look at my photos on Tim's site. WWW.MYRV10.Com. You will see what PPG 1791 looks like. It is very light, dries quick, 20 min. 1 1/2 gal will do thewhole plane. Before you prime just wipe clean withAcetone and shoot. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some Rustoleum. Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. The first is to use aself etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This saves time all around, as well as weight. The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime, and shoot everything. The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO,spending the extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the road. My question has to do withpreparation.I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to use something unproven.I realize there are no correct answers, but wouldvery much appreciateany input in terms of either effectiveness given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of preparation and clean up. Thanks in advance, John Jessen - Empcone (2%) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight. Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy N610RV Checklists.doc ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
Hi Bob: sent them late yesterday afternoon , not shure what happened (lets try again ) Brian Bollaert ----- Original Message ----- From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Brian, > > Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? > > Thanks. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > bollaert > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > Hello Bob: > > Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more > you > bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult > to > get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . > > Brian Bollaert > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > > > I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the > > motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? > > > > Bob #40105 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > > bollaert > > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > > > > Morning Tim: > > > > Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that > were > > called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you > have > > the > > nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold > the > > brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side > line > > i > > changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more > > connection under left & right seat however there was much less > bending > > of > > the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a > pic. > > > > Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , > > still > > figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only > 1 > > conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How > > about > > your panel ? > > > > Brian Bollaert > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > > To: "RV10" > > Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM > > Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > > > > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... > > > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor > > panels... > > > some got them, some didn't. > > > > > > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge > > things > > > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per > side. > > > K1000-3. > > > > > > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of > 2. > > > > > > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was > missing > > > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that > > > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these > > > nutplates. > > > > > > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to > > > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things > > > out at the last minute. > > > > > > Tim > > > -- > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > > > Current project: Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > 5/17/2005 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
Hi Bob: lets try agian Brian ----- Original Message ----- From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Brian, > > Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? > > Thanks. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > bollaert > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > Hello Bob: > > Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more > you > bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult > to > get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . > > Brian Bollaert > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > > > I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the > > motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? > > > > Bob #40105 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > > bollaert > > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > > > > Morning Tim: > > > > Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that > were > > called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you > have > > the > > nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold > the > > brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side > line > > i > > changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more > > connection under left & right seat however there was much less > bending > > of > > the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a > pic. > > > > Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , > > still > > figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only > 1 > > conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How > > about > > your panel ? > > > > Brian Bollaert > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > > To: "RV10" > > Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM > > Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > > > > Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... > > > Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor > > panels... > > > some got them, some didn't. > > > > > > Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge > > things > > > under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per > side. > > > K1000-3. > > > > > > Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of > 2. > > > > > > I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was > missing > > > 4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that > > > people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these > > > nutplates. > > > > > > Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to > > > verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things > > > out at the last minute. > > > > > > Tim > > > -- > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > > > Current project: Fuselage > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > 5/17/2005 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RV-10 Wiring kit from Van's
We have our wiring harness from Van's on order, but it hasn't arrived yet. I will let ya'll know how we like it when it comes. #241 Finishing/FWF/Wiring Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Strickland, L Jearl Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Wiring kit from Van's Greetings... Does anyone have any input on the wiring kit that Van's offers for $560? thanks....Jearl Strickland # 214 "fuselage" ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Brian just emailed me the pictures. As soon as I can slow down and look at them I'll email you guys some links so you can take a peek. Sorry for the delay.... Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Brian, > > Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? > > Thanks. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > bollaert > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > Hello Bob: > > Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more > you > bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult > to > get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . > > Brian Bollaert > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > >>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the >>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? >> >>Bob #40105 >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian >>bollaert >>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" >> >> >>Morning Tim: >> >>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that > > were > >>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you > > have > >>the >>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold > > the > >>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side > > line > >>i >>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more >>connection under left & right seat however there was much less > > bending > >>of >>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a > > pic. > >>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , >>still >>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only > > 1 > >>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How >>about >>your panel ? >> >>Brian Bollaert >> >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> >>To: "RV10" >>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM >>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >> >> >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>> >>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... >>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor >> >>panels... >> >>>some got them, some didn't. >>> >>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge >> >>things >> >>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per > > side. > >>>K1000-3. >>> >>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of > > 2. > >>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was > > missing > >>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that >>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these >>>nutplates. >>> >>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to >>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things >>>out at the last minute. >>> >>>Tim >>>-- >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>>Current project: Fuselage >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>-- > > 5/17/2005 > >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>-- >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Re: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs Hi John, Another option is what I am using, the sanchem products. Here's my take on it: http://www.froody.org/html/index.php?module=ContentExpress&file=index&func=display&ceid=1&meid=3 The stuff is very easy to use, easy to clean up and environmentally friendly. There's a few photos of putting it on under the construction photos link on my page. The most time consuming / difficult part about this set of products is the scotchbrite/cleaning step, but that is probably true of all of them. Their site is http://www.sanchem.com, and they have some data on testing they have done vs. alodine and other products. HTH, James John Jessen wrote: > Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the > air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% & > confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace > and buy some Rustoleum. > Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. > The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. > This saves time all around, as well as weight. > The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps > variprime, and shoot everything. > The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy > of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty > stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the > aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. > I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the > extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't > penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better > resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation. > I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as > possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to > use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but > would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness > given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of > preparation and clean up. > Thanks in advance, > John Jessen > -> Empcone (2%) > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy > DeBauw > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 18, 2005 4:01 PM > *To:* Rv10-List (E-mail) > *Subject:* RV10-List: Check list updated > > Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate > and Op Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first > flight. > > Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he > flies a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off > during climb out. I have changed my checklist so show the same. I > will fly the first few hours without leaning. Help in cooling > during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy < Checklists.doc>> > -- There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized we wanted it . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
;
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a non-sealing primer providing protection for your part would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything believing you have improved corrosion resistance. Steve #40212 wings --- John Jessen wrote: > Well, the week of the first few customer built > RV-10's taking to the air, > I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so > #$% & confused about > what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to > Ace and buy some > Rustoleum. > > Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. > > The first is to use a self etching primer and > perhaps do the minimum, the > minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to > do its thing. This > saves time all around, as well as weight. > > The second is to use a more traditional priming > approach, perhaps variprime, > and shoot everything. > > The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that > is to use an epoxy of > some type, including a complete pretreatment of > either the nasty stuff or > the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase > the aluminum forever > more using something like AKZO. > > I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, > spending the extra time > and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air > doesn't penetrate, giving > up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better > resale value down the > road. My question has to do with preparation. I'd > rather use something > that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but > as long as I'm going to > all the trouble, I don't want to use something > unproven. I realize there > are no correct answers, but would very much > appreciate any input in terms of > either effectiveness given your experience or > knowledge of such things, or > the ease of preparation and clean up. > > Thanks in advance, > > John Jessen > -> Empcone (2%) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Ready to Prime
I would highly highly recommend the Sherwin Williams 988 "rattle can". It works great. Tons of RV builders have used and it sure makes building faster when you don't have to mix. Scott Schmidt (#40111 - Firewall Forward) sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com ________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Ready to Prime Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% & confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace and buy some Rustoleum. Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. This saves time all around, as well as weight. The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps variprime, and shoot everything. The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation. I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of preparation and clean up. Thanks in advance, John Jessen -> Empcone (2%) =09 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 4:01 PM To: Rv10-List (E-mail) Subject: RV10-List: Check list updated Well I now have a plane not a project. Airworthiness Certificate and Op Limitations in hand. Friday is still looking OK for first flight. Here is what my FAA inspector does with the injected Lycoming he flies a lot. Boost pump just before take-off. He turns it off during climb out. I have changed my checklist so show the same. I will fly the first few hours without leaning. Help in cooling during break-in. Thanks for all of the comments. Randy <> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without. Randy -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized we wanted it . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill John Jessen wrote: > The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. > This saves time all around, as well as weight. > Fourth option, which is what I am doing, is using a self etching primer in a rattle can (Sherwin Williams 988) and prime everything on the interior. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my small sample . . . TDT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized we wanted it . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for easy transfer to the net. Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Parking brake / brake bleeding
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order the cable for it. It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding in the morning. One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I can get the bubbles out. The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great. Here is a shot of my parking brake. http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70 Scott Schmidt sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized we wanted it . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Photos
Subject: Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit
Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them. Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know. http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone. Here are some photos: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Brian, > > Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? > > Thanks. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > bollaert > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > Hello Bob: > > Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more > you > bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult > to > get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . > > Brian Bollaert > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > >>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the >>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? >> >>Bob #40105 >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian >>bollaert >>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" >> >> >>Morning Tim: >> >>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that > > were > >>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you > > have > >>the >>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold > > the > >>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side > > line > >>i >>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more >>connection under left & right seat however there was much less > > bending > >>of >>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a > > pic. > >>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , >>still >>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only > > 1 > >>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How >>about >>your panel ? >> >>Brian Bollaert >> >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> >>To: "RV10" >>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM >>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >> >> >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>> >>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... >>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor >> >>panels... >> >>>some got them, some didn't. >>> >>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge >> >>things >> >>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per > > side. > >>>K1000-3. >>> >>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of > > 2. > >>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was > > missing > >>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that >>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these >>>nutplates. >>> >>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to >>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things >>>out at the last minute. >>> >>>Tim >>>-- >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>>Current project: Fuselage >>> >>> >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Parking brake / brake bleeding
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" I bleed the brakes from the bottom up. It was easy that way and you could watch the bubbles leave to the reservoir. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Subject: RE: RV10-List: Parking brake / brake bleeding --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order the cable for it. It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding in the morning. One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I can get the bubbles out. The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great. Here is a shot of my parking brake. http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70 Scott Schmidt sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized we wanted it . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" I would get on the other list and do a search for parking brakes. I have heard things like leaking valves and sticking valves. I am no expert and have not investigated it much. I may have only talked to the few people that had some problems. Besides wheel chalks is what the wife is for. I figure I built the plane and flew it there the least she can do is get out and chalk the wheels while I hold the brakes... Just kidding honey. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my small sample . . . TDT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized we wanted it . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System?
From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
I talked to both Van's and the guy at Vetterman about this issue. Vetterman says his makes more power and the heat works better as well, and Van's says they both make about the same power but the Aerospace put out way more heat. Going forward I have heard that only the Vetterman will be available. I personally like the look of the Vetterman better. There probably isn't much difference between the two systems considering these engines are turning 2700 RPM's. When I ordered my firewall forward kit I had the option. I don't know if you still do today though. Good luck Randy. Have a blast. Here a couple of pictures comparing the two. http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?p172#post172 Scott Schmidt #40111 (FWF) Cell: 801-319-3094 sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? Which is "better" to have? Is there a choice or not? TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? Anh, you got the Vetterman. I have the Aerospace something. Vetterman is what Doug Pederson has. I think 410RV has the Vetterman on it now. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu Subject: RV10-List: FWF Kit - Wrong Exhaust System? I inventoried my FWF kit today and my Vetterman Exhaust System (IO540) does not look like what the intructions or Randy's pictures show. I have 2 separate heat shrouds each with a tail pipe at one end and a 3-to-1 at the other. Of course there are 2 flanges on the side of each shroud for in/out scat tubes. These shrouds appear to have been made to run longitudinally alongside the induction system. The intructions show one big shroud positioned laterally aft of the induction system with only one tail pipe. I haven't trial fitted them on the engine yet because without an achilles tendon on one leg does not allow me to do much. I also have taken a lot of pain killer which makes me woozie but I'm sure I don't have the right exhaust system. Anh #141 (Finish kit on standby) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" The only problem I see is that now the selector is backwards. When pointing to the left it will be the right tank. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them. Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know. http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone. Here are some photos: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > Brian, > > Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? > > Thanks. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > bollaert > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > Hello Bob: > > Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more > you > bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult > to > get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . > > Brian Bollaert > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > >>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the >>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? >> >>Bob #40105 >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian >>bollaert >>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" >> >> >>Morning Tim: >> >>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that > > were > >>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you > > have > >>the >>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold > > the > >>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side > > line > >>i >>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more >>connection under left & right seat however there was much less > > bending > >>of >>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a > > pic. > >>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , >>still >>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only > > 1 > >>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How >>about >>your panel ? >> >>Brian Bollaert >> >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> >>To: "RV10" >>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM >>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >> >> >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>> >>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... >>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor >> >>panels... >> >>>some got them, some didn't. >>> >>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge >> >>things >> >>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per > > side. > >>>K1000-3. >>> >>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of > > 2. > >>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was > > missing > >>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that >>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these >>>nutplates. >>> >>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to >>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things >>>out at the last minute. >>> >>>Tim >>>-- >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>>Current project: Fuselage >>> >>> >>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" hee hee Don't forget your wife can pump the gas, too! : ) TDT Do not archive -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" I would get on the other list and do a search for parking brakes. I have heard things like leaking valves and sticking valves. I am no expert and have not investigated it much. I may have only talked to the few people that had some problems. Besides wheel chalks is what the wife is for. I figure I built the plane and flew it there the least she can do is get out and chalk the wheels while I hold the brakes... Just kidding honey. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my small sample . . . TDT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" I didn't install one. I heard enough complaints about them the I will try it without. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by the time we realized we wanted it . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by model. You gonna be a -10 builder too? Tim PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them as a kit, I'd be thrilled! Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Buhwana wrote: > Tim, > Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the > pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the checklist. > This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and after > checking it depended on the model year! > tom (soon to be an Rver > On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: > >> The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >> >> starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >> >> it if you turn it on in the air. >> >> >> >> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> Current project: Fuselage >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson My A&P showed me how to bleed brakes on my Beech, and this procedure worked really well for me: 1) Get a good pump type oil can. (A few bucks at an auto parts store) 2) Get some plastic tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve 3) Take the lid off your reservoir (Might want to have someone up there watch for it to fill so you don't overflow it) 4) Connect the plastic tubing to the hose end of the oil can, and pump some brake fluid up the tube to the end of the hose. 5) Connect the plastic tubing to the Bleeder valve. 6) Crack the bleeder valve a couple turns and start pumping the fluid up to the reservoir. When you're going to stop pumping to refill the can, shut the bleeder valve tightly first...and don't disconnect the plastic tubing and let any air in. Just add more fluid to the oil can as necessary, and crack the valve and start pumping until you work all the air up to the top. Bubbles like to go UP not down, so that's why this procedure may help you out. After you get the bubbles out, you should have very nice stiff brakes. Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Scott Schmidt wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" > > I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order > the cable for it. > It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding > in the morning. > One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does > anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on > the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so > you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while > someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and > have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I > keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and > copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I > am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on > the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I > can get the bubbles out. > > The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am > still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great. > > Here is a shot of my parking brake. > http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70 > > Scott Schmidt > sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim > Dawson-Townsend > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > > > > Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was > surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while > installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by > the time we realized we wanted it . . . > > TDT > 40025 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew > I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the > older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, > the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe > it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) > I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to > the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. > Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by > model. > > You gonna be a -10 builder too? > > Tim > > PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. > If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them > as a kit, I'd be thrilled! > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > Current project: Fuselage > > Buhwana wrote: > >>Tim, >>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the >>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the > > checklist. > >>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and > > after > >>checking it depended on the model year! >>tom (soon to be an Rver >>On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: >> >> >>>The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >>> >>>starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >>> >>>it if you turn it on in the air. >>> >>> >>> >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>> >>>Current project: Fuselage >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave the alcad alone or go with an epoxy? John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a non-sealing primer providing protection for your part would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything believing you have improved corrosion resistance. Steve #40212 wings --- John Jessen wrote: > Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the > air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% & > confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace > and buy some Rustoleum. > > Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. > > The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. > This saves time all around, as well as weight. > > The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps > variprime, and shoot everything. > > The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy > of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty > stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the > aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. > > I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the > extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't > penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better > resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation. > I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as > possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to > use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but > would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness > given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of > preparation and clean up. > > Thanks in advance, > > John Jessen > -> Empcone (2%) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave the alcad alone or go with an epoxy? John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a non-sealing primer providing protection for your part would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything believing you have improved corrosion resistance. Steve #40212 wings --- John Jessen wrote: > Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the > air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% & > confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace > and buy some Rustoleum. > > Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. > > The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. > This saves time all around, as well as weight. > > The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps > variprime, and shoot everything. > > The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy > of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty > stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the > aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. > > I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the > extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't > penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better > resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation. > I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as > possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to > use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but > would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness > given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of > preparation and clean up. > > Thanks in advance, > > John Jessen > -> Empcone (2%) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I thought the wife was for bucking the rivets on the belly skins, and in those areas you can't do alone.... Since we have 2 kids, I say she's the best Mother Bucker around. ;) Tim Better do a DO NOT ARCHIVE on that one. Randy DeBauw wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" > > I would get on the other list and do a search for parking brakes. I > have heard things like leaking valves and sticking valves. I am no > expert and have not investigated it much. I may have only talked to > the few people that had some problems. Besides wheel chalks is what > the wife is for. I figure I built the plane and flew it there the > least she can do is get out and chalk the wheels while I hold the > brakes... Just kidding honey. Randy > > -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim > Dawson-Townsend Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:22 AM To: > rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: > 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > > > > Yikes! What kind of complaints? I had heard good things from my > small sample . . . > > TDT > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Ready to Prime
From: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com
--> RV10-List message posted by: matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com This is exactly what I'm doing. SW988 on every internal part and inside of every skin. After riveting, I usually make a final pass with the primer (through the lightning holes) to get any scratches that I may have caused with a bucking bar. Kent Forsythe 40338 Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe. com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill John Jessen wrote: > The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. > This saves time all around, as well as weight. > Fourth option, which is what I am doing, is using a self etching primer in a rattle can (Sherwin Williams 988) and prime everything on the interior. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill Darton Steve wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve > > If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished > is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a > porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that > will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your > now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an > uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a > non-sealing primer providing protection for your part > would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a > sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those > primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy > or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything > believing you have improved corrosion resistance. > > Steve #40212 wings I admit to being a complete neophyte with regards to priming. If your last sentence is true, then why go through the hassle of priming at all? I was planning on coating the interior with Sherwin Williams 988 self ething primer in the belief that it would indeed improve corrosion resistance, but from what I infer from your post it would be better for me to do nothing, although that intuitively seems wrong to me (just my gut feeling, no data to back it up). Is priming with SW 988 going to make things worse? -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. Rocket Man. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Parking brake / brake bleeding
From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" Thanks Tim. I will give this a shot. Scott Schmidt (#40111) Cell: 801-319-3094 sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake / brake bleeding --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson My A&P showed me how to bleed brakes on my Beech, and this procedure worked really well for me: 1) Get a good pump type oil can. (A few bucks at an auto parts store) 2) Get some plastic tubing that fits tightly over the bleeder valve 3) Take the lid off your reservoir (Might want to have someone up there watch for it to fill so you don't overflow it) 4) Connect the plastic tubing to the hose end of the oil can, and pump some brake fluid up the tube to the end of the hose. 5) Connect the plastic tubing to the Bleeder valve. 6) Crack the bleeder valve a couple turns and start pumping the fluid up to the reservoir. When you're going to stop pumping to refill the can, shut the bleeder valve tightly first...and don't disconnect the plastic tubing and let any air in. Just add more fluid to the oil can as necessary, and crack the valve and start pumping until you work all the air up to the top. Bubbles like to go UP not down, so that's why this procedure may help you out. After you get the bubbles out, you should have very nice stiff brakes. Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Scott Schmidt wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" > > I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order > the cable for it. > It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding > in the morning. > One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does > anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on > the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so > you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while > someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and > have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I > keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and > copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I > am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on > the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I > can get the bubbles out. > > The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am > still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great. > > Here is a shot of my parking brake. > http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70 > > Scott Schmidt > sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim > Dawson-Townsend > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > > > > Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was > surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while > installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by > the time we realized we wanted it . . . > > TDT > 40025 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew > I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the > older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, > the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe > it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) > I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to > the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. > Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by > model. > > You gonna be a -10 builder too? > > Tim > > PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. > If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them > as a kit, I'd be thrilled! > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > Current project: Fuselage > > Buhwana wrote: > >>Tim, >>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the >>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the > > checklist. > >>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and > > after > >>checking it depended on the model year! >>tom (soon to be an Rver >>On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: >> >> >>>The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >>> >>>starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >>> >>>it if you turn it on in the air. >>> >>> >>> >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>> >>>Current project: Fuselage >>> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" "I believe I Can fly" or of course for those Navy pukes "Danger Zone" from Top Gun . . . DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. Rocket Man. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Wayne Edgerton" How about "On the Wings of a Snow White Dove" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > > > > "I believe I Can fly" > > or of course for those Navy pukes "Danger Zone" from Top Gun . . . > > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 3:26 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" > > We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. > I'll start off. > > Rocket Man. > Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens > > I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the > americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring > the digital vid camera... :) > > Right, I wish... > > -Sean #40303 > > do not archive > > Randy DeBauw wrote: > >> I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the >> day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little >> better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what >> happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day >> or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with >> good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport >> weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the >> conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you >> have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for >> easy transfer to the net. Randy >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Funny how fast primer talk goes 'round in the same circles... ;) Part of that is because the priming issue has so many variables. Some parts are alclad, some aren't, for one. If it isn't alclad, you might want to prime it....and *might* is the key word. Nobody HAS to prime anything at all. The skins, being alclad, are kind of corrosion resistant as is, BUT, if I lived by the salt water, I'd probably still want more. Variprime, and the rattle can primers are nice, etching primers. Etching primers grab nice and well. The only issue is that both of those are not "Sealing" primers. People have great luck with them anyway, however, from what it sounds like. If it isn't a sealing primer though, moisture vapors will make it through. Primers like AKZO, what I'm using, are sealing primers, but not "etching" primers. So the primer doesn't stick (or so they say) to smooth metals like the alclad skins. So, to use Akzo, I scuff my skins with scotchbrite first....that gives the primer something to grab. Unfortunately, it also wears on the alclad surface. Oh well....you just can't win. So to take it to another step, if you really want to go all out, you scuff, etch, and alodine. Then you prime over that with a sealing epoxy primer. I think that ideally, this would be the "Best" corrosion protection you do, but it involves mess, chemicals, time, effor, and more. James Ochs also has that alodine alternative that sounds pretty good and might even make it a nicer experience. I've spoken very reasonably with other builders about their primer choice, and gotten the same advice as everyone will always give when someone inquires about primer. Problem is, there is absolutely no conclusive right or wrong way to do it....again, unless you live in some extremely harsh environment. Anything you do, that isn't all-out alodine thru expoxy, is probably just an attempt at protection that just ends up taking some time. You're probably only marginally different if you use Variprime, rattle cans, Akzo without alodine, Sherwin Williams, or whatever....I really doubt it makes much of a difference. Zinc Chromate is supposed to be a fantastic protection....too bad it's also pretty toxic. There just isn't any real, complete, "win" situation that doesn't involve the tradeoff of extra work.....so, everyone just does what ends up sounding most reasonable to them. One builder I visited tried to protect his skins from scratches, and then he only primed the rivet lines under the ribs, where you deburr and dimple. Sounds real reasonable to me, and costs less and takes less work than priming the whole thing. Me, I started with Alodine and Akzo on most of the parts....skipped the alodine on most of the skins, just scuffed and Akzo'd. For the Fuselage, I'll only aldoine the things that I really feel like doing....not many. If I didn't have a QB fuse, I'd probably do quite a bit more parts with alodine...since they're small. To each, his own. Just weigh your environment, cost, and work concerns, and take a guess.....or, probably better yet, just put post-it's on the wall with the various primer theories and throw a dart....either way, you'll be flying an RV-10 for many, many years. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage Dj Merrill wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill > > Darton Steve wrote: > >> --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve >> >> If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished >> is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a >> porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that >> will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your >> now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an >> uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a >> non-sealing primer providing protection for your part >> would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a >> sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those >> primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy >> or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything >> believing you have improved corrosion resistance. >> >> Steve #40212 wings > > > I admit to being a complete neophyte with regards to > priming. If your last sentence is true, then why > go through the hassle of priming at all? I was planning on > coating the interior with Sherwin Williams 988 self > ething primer in the belief that it would indeed > improve corrosion resistance, but from what I infer > from your post it would be better for me to do nothing, > although that intuitively seems wrong to me > (just my gut feeling, no data to back it up). > > Is priming with SW 988 going to make things > worse? > > -Dj > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
;
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Parking brake / brake bleeding
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve Scott, I've replaced the calipers on my C310 with a similar technique. Give me a call I'll come help. Steve #40212 --- Scott Schmidt wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" > > > Thanks Tim. I will give this a shot. > > Scott Schmidt (#40111) > Cell: 801-319-3094 > sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:23 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Parking brake / brake > bleeding > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > My A&P showed me how to bleed brakes on my Beech, > and this procedure > worked really well for me: > > 1) Get a good pump type oil can. (A few bucks at an > auto parts store) > 2) Get some plastic tubing that fits tightly over > the bleeder valve > 3) Take the lid off your reservoir (Might want to > have someone up there > watch for it to fill so you don't overflow it) > 4) Connect the plastic tubing to the hose end of the > oil can, and > pump some brake fluid up the tube to the end of the > hose. > 5) Connect the plastic tubing to the Bleeder valve. > 6) Crack the bleeder valve a couple turns and start > pumping the fluid > up to the reservoir. > > When you're going to stop pumping to refill the can, > shut the bleeder > valve tightly first...and don't disconnect the > plastic tubing and let > any air in. Just add more fluid to the oil can as > necessary, and > crack the valve and start pumping until you work all > the air up to > the top. Bubbles like to go UP not down, so that's > why this procedure > may help you out. After you get the bubbles out, > you should have very > nice stiff brakes. > > Tim > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > > > > Scott Schmidt wrote: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" > > > > > I did. It was really quite simple to install. I > still need to order > > the cable for it. > > It seems to work great. I have set it overnight > and it is still > holding > > in the morning. > > One thing I would like some help on though is > bleeding the brakes. > Does > > anyone know a good procedure out there? I have > attached the device on > > the brake end that attaches the air compressor and > causes a vacuum so > > you don't get any air bubbles and then I have > cycled the brakes while > > someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done > this three times now > and > > have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic > brake fluid and I > > keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see > between the pilot and > > copilot. I just think they aren't being worked > out. The next thing I > > am going to try if no one else has any ideas was > to create pressure on > > the reservoir and force the brake fluid through > the system to see if I > > can get the bubbles out. > > > > The brakes feel solid though even though even with > the bubbles but I > am > > still going to work on getting them out. Any help > would be great. > > > > Here is a shot of my parking brake. > > > http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70 > > > > Scott Schmidt > > sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Tim > > Dawson-Townsend > > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 > Msgs - 05/18/05 > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim > Dawson-Townsend" > > > > > > > > Are the majority of folks putting in the parking > brake valve? I was > > surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even > mention that option > while > > installing the brake lines. We had to go back and > re-do it a little > by > > the time we realized we wanted it . . . > > > > TDT > > 40025 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On > Behalf Of Tim Olson > > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 > Msgs - 05/18/05 > > > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > > > > > > Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching > that discussion. I > flew > > I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences > were from the > > older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure > which years. But, > > the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in > the air....or maybe > > it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a > while) > > I knew some models weren't that same way, but just > wanted to convey to > > the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that > you want that pump on. > > > Some people find that very very strange. It > definitely does vary by > > model. > > > > You gonna be a -10 builder too? > > > > Tim > > > > PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail > member......they're fantastic > planes. > > If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could > build them > > as a kit, I'd be thrilled! > > > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > > Current project: Fuselage > > > > Buhwana wrote: > > > >>Tim, > >>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some > model years require the > >>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention > it in the > > > > checklist. > > > >>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the > Musketeer group and > > > > after > > > >>checking it depended on the model year! > >>tom (soon to be an Rver > === message truncated === Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour: http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
;
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Ready to Prime
--> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve Most primers are porous so that the finish coat can mechanically bond to the primer. The finish layer/s of paint seal the finished product. I'm saying either use an aviation type zinc chromate or a primer that doesn't require a top coat or prime AND paint or leave the ALCLAD alone. Otherwise my opinion is that you are doing worse than just wasting your time. Steve #40212 wing ribs --- John Jessen wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" > > > Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave > the alcad alone or go > with an epoxy? > > John > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Darton Steve > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 9:50 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve > > > If your primer doesn't seal, all you have > accomplished is to destroy the > ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer > coating (like rattle can > primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct > contact with your now ALCLAD > removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed > waste of time and money. > An example of a non-sealing primer providing > protection for your part would > be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a > sacrificial coating on the outside > of your part. Those primers are toxic AND > carcinogenic. There is no easy or > simple solution. Don't just prime with anything > believing you have improved > corrosion resistance. > > Steve #40212 wings > --- John Jessen wrote: > > Well, the week of the first few customer built > RV-10's taking to the > > air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, > I am so #$% & > > confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready > to go down to Ace > > and buy some Rustoleum. > > > > Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. > > > > > The first is to use a self etching primer and > perhaps do the minimum, > > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the > alcad to do its thing. > > This saves time all around, as well as weight. > > > > The second is to use a more traditional priming > approach, perhaps > > variprime, and shoot everything. > > > > The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that > is to use an epoxy > > of some type, including a complete pretreatment of > either the nasty > > stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, > then encase the > > aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. > > > > I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the > AKZO, spending the > > extra time and effort to make sure the moisture > and salt air doesn't > > penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping > it gives it a better > > resale value down the road. My question has to do > with preparation. > > I'd rather use something that is as > environmentally friendly as > > possible, but as long as I'm going to all the > trouble, I don't want to > > use something unproven. I realize there are no > correct answers, but > > would very much appreciate any input in terms of > either effectiveness > > given your experience or knowledge of such things, > or the ease of > > preparation and clean up. > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > John Jessen > > -> Empcone (2%) > > > > > __________________________________________________ > protection around > > > > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > > > > > > > > Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." http://www.acespilotshop.com/pilot-supplies/pilot_gifts/song_pilot.htm Check out I have arrived and unusual attitudes -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. Rocket Man. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Parking brake / brake bleeding
Bleed the brake system from the bottom up. You can get a nice adapter from Aircraft Spruce that fits on the brake nipple and makes it painless and almost leakproof. I used a 1 gal sprayer from Home Depot to pressurize the system. Remember that any loops in the flex hoses will trap air in the top of the loop, so you may have to bend them horizontal to get all the air out. The other thing you can do is press on the brakes while it's pumping fluid. This makes the bubbles smaller and they will travel with the fluid when you release the brakes and come out in the reservoir. If able, put a fitting into the reservoir with some clear hose on it and route that hose above the cowl where you can see it and then into a clean container and recycle the overflow back into the sprayer. Linn Scott Schmidt wrote: >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Scott Schmidt" > >I did. It was really quite simple to install. I still need to order >the cable for it. >It seems to work great. I have set it overnight and it is still holding >in the morning. >One thing I would like some help on though is bleeding the brakes. Does >anyone know a good procedure out there? I have attached the device on >the brake end that attaches the air compressor and causes a vacuum so >you don't get any air bubbles and then I have cycled the brakes while >someone keeps the reservoir full. I have done this three times now and >have gone through about half a gallon of synthetic brake fluid and I >keep getting bubbles in the lines you can see between the pilot and >copilot. I just think they aren't being worked out. The next thing I >am going to try if no one else has any ideas was to create pressure on >the reservoir and force the brake fluid through the system to see if I >can get the bubbles out. > >The brakes feel solid though even though even with the bubbles but I am >still going to work on getting them out. Any help would be great. > >Here is a shot of my parking brake. >http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70 > >Scott Schmidt >sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim >Dawson-Townsend >Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:40 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 > >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" > > > >Are the majority of folks putting in the parking brake valve? I was >surprised the plans (at least ours) don't even mention that option while >installing the brake lines. We had to go back and re-do it a little by >the time we realized we wanted it . . . > > TDT > 40025 > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson >Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 12:25 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 48 Msgs - 05/18/05 > > >--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > >Yeah, I was on the musketeermail list watching that discussion. I flew >I think a 1978 model. I think the big differences were from the >older fuel injected ones to the newer. not sure which years. But, >the one I flew I was warned NOT to use the pump in the air....or maybe >it was after the very initial climb. (It's been a while) >I knew some models weren't that same way, but just wanted to convey to >the RV group that it isn't ALWAYS the case that you want that pump on. >Some people find that very very strange. It definitely does vary by >model. > >You gonna be a -10 builder too? > >Tim > >PS: I'm a long-time musketeermail member......they're fantastic planes. >If they only had the IO-540 in them, and you could build them >as a kit, I'd be thrilled! > >Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >Current project: Fuselage > >Buhwana wrote: > > >>Tim, >>Just a lurker but having flown a Sierra, some model years require the >>pump to be on for takeoff and others don't mention it in the >> >> >checklist. > > >>This precipitated a lengthy discussion on the Musketeer group and >> >> >after > > >>checking it depended on the model year! >>tom (soon to be an Rver >>On May 19, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote: >> >> >> >>>The Beech Sierra is the same way...no fuel pump on except for >>> >>>starting and emergencies...you'll flood the engine kill >>> >>>it if you turn it on in the air. >>> >>> >>> >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>> >>>Current project: Fuselage >>> >>> >>> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Re: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" Randy, Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder (middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit? I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in. Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over! Jim Combs #40192 Do Not Archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven, maybe. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. Rocket Man. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
How about some Wagner - something from "The FLying Dutchman" maybe . . . TDT ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven, maybe. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. Rocket Man. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time. That would be cool. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" Randy, Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder (middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit? I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in. Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over! Jim Combs #40192 Do Not Archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" Ode to Freedom would most definitely be appropriate. Actually, I'll opt for silence on the first flight. Need to listen to that engine. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. How about some Wagner - something from "The FLying Dutchman" maybe . . . TDT ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven, maybe. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. Rocket Man. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ==================================== ==================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Great idea with the in-cockpit video....the audio though, takes a bit more work. The intercom will overdrive the mic input on the camera...so you need to use an attenuating cable. I built one for using my camera in my plane a couple years ago. Being that tomorrow's friday though, I'd say just leave the camera audio open to the cockpit...you've got enough to think about right now. ;) Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Randy DeBauw wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" > > If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time. That would be cool. Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 2:53 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" > > Randy, > > Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder (middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit? > > I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in. > > Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over! > > Jim Combs > #40192 > > Do Not Archive > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Re: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" Yes, By all means "Fly the plane first!" Just a thought! JimC ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Great idea with the in-cockpit video....the audio though, takes a bit more work. The intercom will overdrive the mic input on the camera...so you need to use an attenuating cable. I built one for using my camera in my plane a couple years ago. Being that tomorrow's friday though, I'd say just leave the camera audio open to the cockpit...you've got enough to think about right now. ;) Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 DO NOT ARCHIVE Randy DeBauw wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" > > If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time. That would be cool. Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 2:53 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" > > Randy, > > Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder (middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit? > > I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in. > > Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over! > > Jim Combs > #40192 > > Do Not Archive > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Ready to Prime - Newer Rattle Products
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" Well yeah but,..... There are some new self-etching non-corrosive, corrosion resistant rattle can primers out recently. Take a look at this spec sheet from Dupont. These are available at most auto body refinish stores carrying Dupont paint. http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/chromasyst em/H-19469_A-4115S.pdf Just noting that there are shades of gray ;-) Bill S 7a Ark -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ready to Prime --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" Very reasonable, so you are saying that either leave the alcad alone or go with an epoxy? John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ready to Prime --> RV10-List message posted by: Darton Steve If your primer doesn't seal, all you have accomplished is to destroy the ALCLAD surface and cover it with a porous primer coating (like rattle can primer) that will allow moisture nearly direct contact with your now ALCLAD removed part. That seems to me to be an uninformed waste of time and money. An example of a non-sealing primer providing protection for your part would be an aviation zinc primer. The zinc is a sacrificial coating on the outside of your part. Those primers are toxic AND carcinogenic. There is no easy or simple solution. Don't just prime with anything believing you have improved corrosion resistance. Steve #40212 wings --- John Jessen wrote: > Well, the week of the first few customer built RV-10's taking to the > air, I'm ready to prime the VS. Only problem is, I am so #$% & > confused about what primer to use I'm almost ready to go down to Ace > and buy some Rustoleum. > > Anyway, there appears to be 3 paths, give or take. > > The first is to use a self etching primer and perhaps do the minimum, > the minimum being rivet lines, and leaving the alcad to do its thing. > This saves time all around, as well as weight. > > The second is to use a more traditional priming approach, perhaps > variprime, and shoot everything. > > The third seems to be the most ambitious, and that is to use an epoxy > of some type, including a complete pretreatment of either the nasty > stuff or the more environmentally friendly stuff, then encase the > aluminum forever more using something like AKZO. > > I guess that I'm going to punt and go with the AKZO, spending the > extra time and effort to make sure the moisture and salt air doesn't > penetrate, giving up the extra weight and hoping it gives it a better > resale value down the road. My question has to do with preparation. > I'd rather use something that is as environmentally friendly as > possible, but as long as I'm going to all the trouble, I don't want to > use something unproven. I realize there are no correct answers, but > would very much appreciate any input in terms of either effectiveness > given your experience or knowledge of such things, or the ease of > preparation and clean up. > > Thanks in advance, > > John Jessen > -> Empcone (2%) > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: Re: Weather watch for first flight
Dang it Randy, I got all tied up with "work" today and didn't check the Matronics emails til now (5:47pm). It records onto a tape, digitally. I download it easily to my Mac and build DVD's in widescreen format. Quicktime Pro allows me the ability to convert into different formats for use on the internet. Personally, I start big and cut/shrink later! I planned on locking myself in my office at home and getting out a quick and dirty file as a teaser and sending it to Tim (unless there's a better place tosend it). Using www.yousendit.com, I can transfer a gig of data! Keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow! Bruce Bruce is the video camera you have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for easy transfer to the net. Dang it Randy, I got all tied up with "work" today and didn't check the Matronics emails til now (5:47pm). It records onto a tape, digitally. I download it easily to my Mac and build DVD's in widescreen format. Quicktime Pro allows me the ability to convert into different formats for use on the internet. Personally, I start big and cut/shrink later! I planned on locking myself in my office at home and getting out a quick and dirty file as a teaser and sending it to Tim (unless there's a better place tosend it). Using www.yousendit.com, I can transfer a gig of data! Keeping my fingers crossed for tomorrow! Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
Pink Floyd - Learning to Fly, even has a checklist built in. :-) -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" Ode to Freedom would most definitely be appropriate. Actually, I'll opt for silence on the first flight. Need to listen to that engine. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. How about some Wagner - something from "The FLying Dutchman" maybe . . . TDT ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" Break the mold a little bit and go with some classical music. Beethoven, maybe. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. Rocket Man. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring the digital vid camera... :) Right, I wish... -Sean #40303 do not archive Randy DeBauw wrote: > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > easy transfer to the net. Randy > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" Hi Randy : We put air pressur on the fuel valve to determine which valve was which , as in the pic left is left , right is right , i had the same concern . I have a feeling you will be flying sat . weather is nasty ! Brian B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" > > The only problem I see is that now the selector is backwards. When pointing to the left it will be the right tank. Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:54 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + > Conduit Photos > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > > I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them. > Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know. > > http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html > > At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit > that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's > going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone. > Here are some photos: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > > > Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > > Brian, > > > > Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? > > > > Thanks. > > > > Bob #40105 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > > bollaert > > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > > > > > Hello Bob: > > > > Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more > > you > > bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult > > to > > get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . > > > > Brian Bollaert > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> > > To: > > Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM > > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > > > > > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > > > > > >>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the > >>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? > >> > >>Bob #40105 > >> > >>-----Original Message----- > >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian > >>bollaert > >>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM > >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > >> > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > >> > >> > >>Morning Tim: > >> > >>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that > > > > were > > > >>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you > > > > have > > > >>the > >>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold > > > > the > > > >>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side > > > > line > > > >>i > >>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more > >>connection under left & right seat however there was much less > > > > bending > > > >>of > >>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a > > > > pic. > > > >>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , > >>still > >>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only > > > > 1 > > > >>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How > >>about > >>your panel ? > >> > >>Brian Bollaert > >> > >> > >>----- Original Message ----- > >>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> > >>To: "RV10" > >>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM > >>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits > >> > >> > >> > >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson > >>> > >>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... > >>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor > >> > >>panels... > >> > >>>some got them, some didn't. > >>> > >>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge > >> > >>things > >> > >>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per > > > > side. > > > >>>K1000-3. > >>> > >>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of > > > > 2. > > > >>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was > > > > missing > > > >>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that > >>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these > >>>nutplates. > >>> > >>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to > >>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things > >>>out at the last minute. > >>> > >>>Tim > >>>-- > >>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 > >>>Current project: Fuselage > >>> > >>> > >>> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" DJ, My local Sherwin Williams store didn't have it either, as they only carry home paint. However, my local paint supply store had it in the "back," in part of their industrial/commercial stock that they don't put on the retail shelves. Call around to your local commercial paint stores and ask for SW 988. I'm sure you'll find it locally. My first can cost me about $9, but a month later when I went back and got a case (12), I think it was $5-6 per can after bulk discount. Rob 40392, N524RX reserved Just finished priming VS parts -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill Subject: Re: RV10-List: rattle can primer --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill > Sherwin Williams 988 is very good stuff for a "rattle can". Special nozzle > that sprays very well. > If you go to any NAPA auto store, they carry Dupli-Color DAP 1690 > Self-Etching Primer for $5.95. It is great stuff and I use if for small > parts when I do not want to mix up the two part stuff. Thanks all for the advice on where to find the primer. I went to a local Sherwin Williams outlet store in Chapel Hill after work tonight, and was told they do not carry it at that location. I went to Autozone, and found the empty shelf with the label for the Dupli-Color 1690. I went to Walmart and found nothing... *grin* So, I ordered 4 cans of SW 988 from their web store. Should hopefully be here soon. Now I guess I have to learn the best technique for using a spray can - haven't used one in years. Pointy end of the can goes away from you - okay, got it! :-) Thanks again, -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" Randy rocket man is good BUT how about Wagner's Flight of the Valkyries? (its very moving !) Brian B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" > > We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. > > Rocket Man. > Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens > > I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the > americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring > the digital vid camera... :) > > Right, I wish... > > -Sean #40303 > > do not archive > > Randy DeBauw wrote: > > > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > > easy transfer to the net. Randy > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" Stravinsky's "The Firebird Suite." Rob -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian bollaert Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" Randy rocket man is good BUT how about Wagner's Flight of the Valkyries? (its very moving !) Brian B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" > > We were thinking what music would be good to put on first flight video. I'll start off. > > Rocket Man. > Randy > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:53 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. > > > --> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens > > I wish I was up there to see it. Heck, let me bring up the > americawest.com reservations and see how much tickets are... I'll bring > the digital vid camera... :) > > Right, I wish... > > -Sean #40303 > > do not archive > > Randy DeBauw wrote: > > > I know a lot of people are watching the list to see if Friday is the > > day. Weather is not good today. Tomorrow is suppose to be a little > > better. I am taking the day off and will be waiting to see what > > happens. If winds are above 5 kts I will wait till later in the day > > or fly on Sat. The weekend weather is suppose to be much better with > > good weather all next week. You can take a look at the airport > > weather on the internet early in the morning and see what the > > conditions are. I won't be in a hurry. Bruce is the video camera you > > have digital of tape? I would like to find someone with a digital for > > easy transfer to the net. Randy > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" So after getting thoroughly confused after reading all these new primer posts, Should DJ scotchbrite, clean, and then apply SW988, or just clean and apply? I've been scotchbriting so far and putting a decent coat on, but if the consensus of repeat offenders or others well-versed in priming say otherwise, I'll happily save the time spent on it! Rob #392 Ready to rivet VS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Photos
Subject: Re: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit
Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson But, Brian, That valve has the handle forward, but the pointer end of the valve facing aft, doesn't it?? I think that's why Randy had that comment....the pointy tip usually goes towards the front, and at the 10 o'clock position is left, and the 2 o'clock is right......in yours, it's 8 o'clock left, and 4 o'clock right, isn't it? Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 DO NOT ARCHIVE brian bollaert wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > Hi Randy : > > We put air pressur on the fuel valve to determine which valve was which , > as in the pic left is left , right is right , i had the same concern . > I have a feeling you will be flying sat . weather is nasty ! > > Brian B > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:01 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit > Photos > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" >> >>The only problem I see is that now the selector is backwards. When > > pointing to the left it will be the right tank. Randy > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson >>Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:54 AM >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + >>Conduit Photos >> >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >>I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them. >>Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know. >> >>http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html >> >>At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit >>that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's >>going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone. >>Here are some photos: >> >>http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html >> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> >> >> >> >>Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > >>>Brian, >>> >>>Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? >>> >>>Thanks. >>> >>>Bob #40105 >>> >>>-----Original Message----- >>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian >>>bollaert >>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM >>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" >>> >>> >>>Hello Bob: >>> >>>Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more >>>you >>>bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult >>>to >>>get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . >>> >>>Brian Bollaert >>>----- Original Message ----- >>>From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> >>>To: >>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM >>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" >>> >>> >>> >>>>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the >>>>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? >>>> >>>>Bob #40105 >>>> >>>>-----Original Message----- >>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian >>>>bollaert >>>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM >>>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>>> >>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" >>>> >>>> >>>>Morning Tim: >>>> >>>>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that >>> >>>were >>> >>> >>>>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you >>> >>>have >>> >>> >>>>the >>>>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold >>> >>>the >>> >>> >>>>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side >>> >>>line >>> >>> >>>>i >>>>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more >>>>connection under left & right seat however there was much less >>> >>>bending >>> >>> >>>>of >>>>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a >>> >>>pic. >>> >>> >>>>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , >>>>still >>>>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only >>> >>>1 >>> >>> >>>>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How >>>>about >>>>your panel ? >>>> >>>>Brian Bollaert >>>> >>>> >>>>----- Original Message ----- >>>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> >>>>To: "RV10" >>>>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM >>>>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>>>> >>>>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... >>>>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor >>>> >>>>panels... >>>> >>>> >>>>>some got them, some didn't. >>>>> >>>>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge >>>> >>>>things >>>> >>>> >>>>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per >>> >>>side. >>> >>> >>>>>K1000-3. >>>>> >>>>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of >>> >>>2. >>> >>> >>>>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was >>> >>>missing >>> >>> >>>>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that >>>>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these >>>>>nutplates. >>>>> >>>>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to >>>>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things >>>>>out at the last minute. >>>>> >>>>>Tim >>>>>-- >>>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>>>>Current project: Fuselage >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" Here is a site to buy the primer and to find a dealer near you........worked for me. http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565 Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright Subject: RE: RV10-List: rattle can primer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" DJ, My local Sherwin Williams store didn't have it either, as they only carry home paint. However, my local paint supply store had it in the "back," in part of their industrial/commercial stock that they don't put on the retail shelves. Call around to your local commercial paint stores and ask for SW 988. I'm sure you'll find it locally. My first can cost me about $9, but a month later when I went back and got a case (12), I think it was $5-6 per can after bulk discount. Rob 40392, N524RX reserved Just finished priming VS parts -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill Subject: Re: RV10-List: rattle can primer --> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill > Sherwin Williams 988 is very good stuff for a "rattle can". Special nozzle > that sprays very well. > If you go to any NAPA auto store, they carry Dupli-Color DAP 1690 > Self-Etching Primer for $5.95. It is great stuff and I use if for small > parts when I do not want to mix up the two part stuff. Thanks all for the advice on where to find the primer. I went to a local Sherwin Williams outlet store in Chapel Hill after work tonight, and was told they do not carry it at that location. I went to Autozone, and found the empty shelf with the label for the Dupli-Color 1690. I went to Walmart and found nothing... *grin* So, I ordered 4 cans of SW 988 from their web store. Should hopefully be here soon. Now I guess I have to learn the best technique for using a spray can - haven't used one in years. Pointy end of the can goes away from you - okay, got it! :-) Thanks again, -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill Robert G. Wright wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Robert G. Wright" > > So after getting thoroughly confused after reading all these new primer > posts, Should DJ scotchbrite, clean, and then apply SW988, or just clean and > apply? > > I've been scotchbriting so far and putting a decent coat on, but if the > consensus of repeat offenders or others well-versed in priming say > otherwise, I'll happily save the time spent on it! Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the parts and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is the best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone? Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun! I've decided, for better or for worse, that I am going to spray everything with the SW 988 primer. Completely psychological, but I'll just "feel" better seeing a coat of primer on everything. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu>
Subject: Re: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Dj Merrill Rene wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene" > > Here is a site to buy the primer and to find a dealer near you........worked > for me. > > http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565 Hi Rene', Thanks for the hint. Actually, I noticed when I placed the order on the web that they give you a choice of where to ship it from, and there is a branch in Raleigh, NC that carries the SW 988. In a pinch I suppose I could drive down and get some, but probably just as easy to have them ship it to me. I found a couple of cans of the Martin Senour 7220 at a local NAPA, which is the same thing as SW 988, and that should last me until my order of SW 988 arrives in a few days. When I get down to a can or two, I'll just order a bunch more. At least, that sounds rational on the surface... *grin* -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: rattle can primer
--> RV10-List message posted by: Sean Stephens > Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the > parts and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is > the best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone? > Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun! > I used scotchbrite, followed by a cleaning with acetone, followed by SW 988 on the entire inside surface of the tailcone. It worked well for me. I will probably continue that process for the remainder of the project. -Sean #40303 (Still waiting for wing kit, still twiddling fingers...) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 19, 2005
Subject: rattle can primer
From: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com> DJ Many repeat offenders elect to not prime at all. But clean and spray is fine with self-etching primers. I've switched to denatured alcohol for almost all cleaning. It works as well as acetone but won't hurt you unless you drink it. I still keep acetone and MEK around for special cases but feel much better using alcohol considering how many gallons flash off during cleaning. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the parts > and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is the > best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone? > Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun! > > I've decided, for better or for worse, that I am going > to spray everything with the SW 988 primer. > Completely psychological, but I'll just "feel" better seeing > a coat of primer on everything. > > -Dj > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." Scotchbrite of the pointer, and use the handle to point to left or right? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit Photos --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson But, Brian, That valve has the handle forward, but the pointer end of the valve facing aft, doesn't it?? I think that's why Randy had that comment....the pointy tip usually goes towards the front, and at the 10 o'clock position is left, and the 2 o'clock is right......in yours, it's 8 o'clock left, and 4 o'clock right, isn't it? Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 DO NOT ARCHIVE brian bollaert wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" > > Hi Randy : > > We put air pressur on the fuel valve to determine which valve was which , > as in the pic left is left , right is right , i had the same concern . > I have a feeling you will be flying sat . weather is nasty ! > > Brian B > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 11:01 AM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + Conduit > Photos > > > >>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" >> >>The only problem I see is that now the selector is backwards. When > > pointing to the left it will be the right tank. Randy > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson >>Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 10:54 AM >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits + >>Conduit Photos >> >> >>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >> >>I have now posted Brian's Fuel line photos so you can see them. >>Brian, if something isn't right, just let me know. >> >>http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/BrianBollaert/fuel_lines/index.html >> >>At the same time, I updated my site to show the Inner Duct conduit >>that I got yesterday. Last night I installed it and I think it's >>going to be fantastic for running the wires to the tailcone. >>Here are some photos: >> >>http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050517/index.html >> >>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >> >> >> >> >> >>Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote: >> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" > > > >>>Brian, >>> >>>Were you able to post the pic? If so, where? >>> >>>Thanks. >>> >>>Bob #40105 >>> >>>-----Original Message----- >>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian >>>bollaert >>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 11:21 AM >>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>> >>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" >>> >>> >>>Hello Bob: >>> >>>Absolutley it was !, after ruining 12 feet or so of 3/8 /tube ! the more >>>you >>>bend it the weaker it gets & and it is really (for me anyway ) difficult >>>to >>>get those bends right , i will post a pic this afternoon . >>> >>>Brian Bollaert >>>----- Original Message ----- >>>From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> >>>To: >>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 8:45 AM >>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" >>> >>> >>> >>>>I'd be interested in the different fuel line routing - was the >>>>motivation simply to reduce the number of bends? >>>> >>>>Bob #40105 >>>> >>>>-----Original Message----- >>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian >>>>bollaert >>>>Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 10:26 AM >>>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>>> >>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: "brian bollaert" >>>> >>>> >>>>Morning Tim: >>>> >>>>Mine was exactly the same situation (except i had no nutplates that >>> >>>were >>> >>> >>>>called out ) they are no fun putting in . Also check to see if you >>> >>>have >>> >>> >>>>the >>>>nutes boltes washers that are used to secure the brackets that hold >>> >>>the >>> >>> >>>>brake & fuel lines in place under the seats (i had none). as a side >>> >>>line >>> >>> >>>>i >>>>changed the routing of the fuel lines in the tunnel , i have one more >>>>connection under left & right seat however there was much less >>> >>>bending >>> >>> >>>>of >>>>the line to do it this way .if you are interested i can send you a >>> >>>pic. >>> >>> >>>>Tim i am probably going with duel cheltons , the 2.5 in airspeed etc , >>>>still >>>>figuring out what i need in ariels & where to put them , there is only >>> >>>1 >>> >>> >>>>conduit in the qb wing so i have to be careful how much i put in .How >>>>about >>>>your panel ? >>>> >>>>Brian Bollaert >>>> >>>> >>>>----- Original Message ----- >>>>From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> >>>>To: "RV10" >>>>Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:01 PM >>>>Subject: RV10-List: Minor Missing parts in QB Fuselage Kits >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>>--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson >>>>> >>>>>Here's one to check if you have the QB fuselage... >>>>>Mine, by the way, was one of them shipped without front floor >>>> >>>>panels... >>>> >>>> >>>>>some got them, some didn't. >>>>> >>>>>Under the most forward leg of each gear attach bracket (the huge >>>> >>>>things >>>> >>>> >>>>>under the 2 front seats), you drill and install 2 nutplates per >>> >>>side. >>> >>> >>>>>K1000-3. >>>>> >>>>>Looking for them in inventory finds that Bag 1455 has a quantity of >>> >>>2. >>> >>> >>>>>I'm not sure if there are 2 required somewhere else, and I was >>> >>>missing >>> >>> >>>>>4, or if they accidently just shorted me 2. It's also possible that >>>>>people who got their front floor panels didn't get shorted these >>>>>nutplates. >>>>> >>>>>Either way though, it's a very minor part that you might want to >>>>>verify you have enough of. I always hate finding these things >>>>>out at the last minute. >>>>> >>>>>Tim >>>>>-- >>>>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 >>>>>Current project: Fuselage >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Randy's Post-Airworthiness Photos
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy's post-airworthiness photos are now available. Today is his scheduled first-flight day! http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html Hoping the weather cooperates. Once I get a video I'll get it out a.s.a.p. -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: rattle can primer
Just an FYI for folks that have to deal with high humidity ..... when the alcohol evaporates, it cools the aluminum which then condenses moisture out of the aiir ..... so leave sufficient drying time ..... which may be significant if the humidity is really high. Here in FL, I've encountered paint that wouldn't stick because of moisture. Caused much soul searching ..... because I think I'm a better painter than that! :-) Any liquid that evaporates rapicly will cause you significant paint adhesion problems. Linn do not archive Greg Young wrote: >--> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com> > >DJ > >Many repeat offenders elect to not prime at all. But clean and spray is >fine with self-etching primers. I've switched to denatured alcohol for >almost all cleaning. It works as well as acetone but won't hurt you >unless you drink it. I still keep acetone and MEK around for special >cases but feel much better using alcohol considering how many gallons >flash off during cleaning. > >Regards, >Greg Young - Houston (DWH) >RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix >Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A > > > > >> Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the parts >>and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is the >>best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone? >>Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun! >> >> I've decided, for better or for worse, that I am going >>to spray everything with the SW 988 primer. >>Completely psychological, but I'll just "feel" better seeing >>a coat of primer on everything. >> >>-Dj >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: rattle can primer
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Lynn, great post tip. When painting a final coat that you want longevity on, it is always wise to record the relative humidity and temperature at the time of application. When painting metallics (Especially) and shooting late afternoon into the PM, the rapid swing in air temperature and relational increase in humidity can cause a change in the adjacent panels. Study the cause and effects of blushing before commencement too. John Cox (learned on the journey down the road of Hard Knocks) Do not archive ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: rattle can primer Just an FYI for folks that have to deal with high humidity ..... when the alcohol evaporates, it cools the aluminum which then condenses moisture out of the aiir ..... so leave sufficient drying time ..... which may be significant if the humidity is really high. Here in FL, I've encountered paint that wouldn't stick because of moisture. Caused much soul searching ..... because I think I'm a better painter than that! :-) Any liquid that evaporates rapicly will cause you significant paint adhesion problems. Linn do not archive Greg Young wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com> gyoung@cs-sol.com> DJ Many repeat offenders elect to not prime at all. But clean and spray is fine with self-etching primers. I've switched to denatured alcohol for almost all cleaning. It works as well as acetone but won't hurt you unless you drink it. I still keep acetone and MEK around for special cases but feel much better using alcohol considering how many gallons flash off during cleaning. Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the parts and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is the best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone? Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun! I've decided, for better or for worse, that I am going to spray everything with the SW 988 primer. Completely psychological, but I'll just "feel" better seeing a coat of primer on everything. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: rattle can primer
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
another point to this is that there are several types of alcohol, make sure you get the purest 99% or better, because it will leave streaks of residue if you do not. I used that at first then switched to Coleman lantern fuel, I use a lint free rag until no black appears, switch to a clean rag and wipe a final time. Seems to work well, I do lightly scuff the surface, not enough to make deep scratches but enough to make a dull surface. I have noticed a significant difference in adhesion vs. non-scuffed. But I also only prime rivet lines and non-alclad, I do not do the entire surface. YMMV Dan 40269 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: rattle can primer Just an FYI for folks that have to deal with high humidity ..... when the alcohol evaporates, it cools the aluminum which then condenses moisture out of the aiir ..... so leave sufficient drying time ..... which may be significant if the humidity is really high. Here in FL, I've encountered paint that wouldn't stick because of moisture. Caused much soul searching ..... because I think I'm a better painter than that! :-) Any liquid that evaporates rapicly will cause you significant paint adhesion problems. Linn do not archive Greg Young wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com> =09 DJ =09 Many repeat offenders elect to not prime at all. But clean and spray is fine with self-etching primers. I've switched to denatured alcohol for almost all cleaning. It works as well as acetone but won't hurt you unless you drink it. I still keep acetone and MEK around for special cases but feel much better using alcohol considering how many gallons flash off during cleaning. =09 Regards, Greg Young - Houston (DWH) RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A =09 =09 Uh, scotchbrite? I was just going to clean the parts and spray them. Of course, my next question - what is the best thing to clean the parts with? Acetone? Yeah, I'm a newbie, but I'm having fun! =09 I've decided, for better or for worse, that I am going to spray everything with the SW 988 primer. Completely psychological, but I'll just "feel" better seeing a coat of primer on everything. =09 -Dj =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 =09 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "Vikki" <n69kv(at)bellsouth.net>
"RV10-List Digest List"
Subject: massive bummer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Vikki" Well I have almost completed the Tail kit and was looking forward to the wing kit, however my employer had other thoughts, my services at this large aerospace company will no longer be needed and just like that i find myself unemployed, this is a massive bummer....so any one with a lead for a avaition middle manager, A&P and IA type schooled in the fine arts of production control and everything turboprop please let me know! JD Nichols RV-10 #320 AP/IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: massive bummer
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." There was rumor that Cirrus was hiring quite a few people, but who would move to Minnesota on purpose?? "GRIN" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vikki Subject: RV10-List: massive bummer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Vikki" Well I have almost completed the Tail kit and was looking forward to the wing kit, however my employer had other thoughts, my services at this large aerospace company will no longer be needed and just like that i find myself unemployed, this is a massive bummer....so any one with a lead for a avaition middle manager, A&P and IA type schooled in the fine arts of production control and everything turboprop please let me know! JD Nichols RV-10 #320 AP/IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: massive bummer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" Or North Dakota for that matter.......I lived in Grand Forks for three years, not all that bad. Rene' N423CF 40322 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. Subject: RE: RV10-List: massive bummer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." There was rumor that Cirrus was hiring quite a few people, but who would move to Minnesota on purpose?? "GRIN" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vikki Subject: RV10-List: massive bummer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Vikki" Well I have almost completed the Tail kit and was looking forward to the wing kit, however my employer had other thoughts, my services at this large aerospace company will no longer be needed and just like that i find myself unemployed, this is a massive bummer....so any one with a lead for a avaition middle manager, A&P and IA type schooled in the fine arts of production control and everything turboprop please let me know! JD Nichols RV-10 #320 AP/IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: massive bummer
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" Go Columbia (formerly Lancair Certified) is hiring many in Bend, OR. Can put you in touch with Amy Prutzman, Board member of Oregon Department of Aviation if you would consider living in sunny Central Oregon. Know that its blasphemy to mention that here but maybe VAN's will consider Turbo-props in their future. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vikki Subject: RV10-List: massive bummer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Vikki" Well I have almost completed the Tail kit and was looking forward to the wing kit, however my employer had other thoughts, my services at this large aerospace company will no longer be needed and just like that i find myself unemployed, this is a massive bummer....so any one with a lead for a avaition middle manager, A&P and IA type schooled in the fine arts of production control and everything turboprop please let me know! JD Nichols RV-10 #320 AP/IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: massive bummer
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John W. Cox" And North Dakata is implementing ADS-B to assist with GPS LPV approaches over the fields for your RV-10 project. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker Subject: RE: RV10-List: massive bummer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" Or North Dakota for that matter.......I lived in Grand Forks for three years, not all that bad. Rene' N423CF 40322 Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R. Subject: RE: RV10-List: massive bummer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Lloyd, Daniel R." There was rumor that Cirrus was hiring quite a few people, but who would move to Minnesota on purpose?? "GRIN" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vikki Subject: RV10-List: massive bummer --> RV10-List message posted by: "Vikki" Well I have almost completed the Tail kit and was looking forward to the wing kit, however my employer had other thoughts, my services at this large aerospace company will no longer be needed and just like that i find myself unemployed, this is a massive bummer....so any one with a lead for a avaition middle manager, A&P and IA type schooled in the fine arts of production control and everything turboprop please let me know! JD Nichols RV-10 #320 AP/IA ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: new Aeroelcetric Connection
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" The new of AEROELECTRIC CONNECTION (revision 11) is now in stock. This is the best manual available on how to design and install the electrical system in your RV. Ask anybody who has ever built an RV. Bob Nuckoll's manual is the bible. http://www.buildersbooks.com/electrical_systems1.htm Thanks, Andy Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com 800 780-4115 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: Weather watch for first flight.
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk)" Randy, This might sound surprising, but you can put a beach ball in the back seat and tie down the camera on top of it. If you tie it down correctly, the beach ball is big enough, and it is pointed just right, you should get some great shots that should be vibration free. It's cheap and affective. Good luck. Bob schroeder Wings 40254 -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy(at)abros.com Clerk) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time. That would be cool. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" Randy, Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder (middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit? I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in. Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over! Jim Combs #40192 Do Not Archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: RE: alternator mounting
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" Browsing around, what's the difference between "case mount" and "boss mount" alternators? And is there a difference between different IO-540 models, or are they all one or the other? TDT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk)" Randy, This might sound surprising, but you can put a beach ball in the back seat and tie down the camera on top of it. If you tie it down correctly, the beach ball is big enough, and it is pointed just right, you should get some great shots that should be vibration free. It's cheap and affective. Good luck. Bob schroeder Wings 40254 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy(at)abros.com Clerk) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Randy DeBauw" If it is raining first thing in the morning as predicted then I may have time. That would be cool. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather watch for first flight. --> RV10-List message posted by: "Jim Combs" Randy, Any possibility of mounting a camera in the back seats looking over your shoulder (middle of the cabin). Tape the 'First Flight' from inside the cockpit? I would suggest some sort of mount that can be seat belted in. Connect the audio up to the intercom? Would be good documentation and give the rest of us following your lead somehting to really drool over! Jim Combs #40192 Do Not Archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: New AvMap Terrain!!
Hi Guys, Just a quick note to show you what the new "soon to be released" AvMap terrain looks like! It's pretty awesome! If for some reason the picture doesn't make it, there is photos on my website. This is encroaching on the MX-20 territory as far as shading & detail goes! Anyway, I was pretty blown away, so I thought I'd share it! I don't have the new card in my hand yet, but I will shortly and when I do I'll get some actual photos. (Yes, it's ONLY a card swap - and a free one at that). Cheers, Stein do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson 10:16am - 5/20/2005 Randy will do the story....but here's a teaser video by Bruce Breckenridge! http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html -- Tim Olson DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: New AvMap Terrain!!
Hi Stein, Looks pretty impressive. Did you by chance get to take a look at pricing out the panel and equipment you and I discussed. I have to head out of the country for awhile and was trying to button down lose ends. Russ D sent me a picture of his panel you are doing for him. Wayne Edgerton ----- Original Message ----- From: Stein Bruch To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 12:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: New AvMap Terrain!! Hi Guys, Just a quick note to show you what the new "soon to be released" AvMap terrain looks like! It's pretty awesome! If for some reason the picture doesn't make it, there is photos on my website. This is encroaching on the MX-20 territory as far as shading & detail goes! Anyway, I was pretty blown away, so I thought I'd share it! I don't have the new card in my hand yet, but I will shortly and when I do I'll get some actual photos. (Yes, it's ONLY a card swap - and a free one at that). Cheers, Stein do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: massive bummer
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > >Well I have almost completed the Tail kit and was looking forward to the >wing kit, however my employer had other thoughts, my services at this large >aerospace company will no longer be needed and just like that i find myself >unemployed, this is a massive bummer....so any one with a lead for a >avaition middle manager, A&P and IA type schooled in the fine arts of >production control and everything turboprop please let me know! > >JD Nichols >RV-10 #320 >AP/IA That sucketh hugely. I'm sorry to hear of your job loss. If you don't mind relocating, try Eclipse Aviation here in Albuquerque, NM. I checked into a job there last summer and even with no A&P, my RV building experience along with my industrial controls and HVAC skills would have gotten me in the door easily. Just couldn't take the pay cut. They're growing and the three flying Eclipse Jet 500's are building hours. You'd be RV10 builder #3 in the area that I know of. My tail kit is done and I'm waiting on the wings...after I cough up a huge chunk of dinero to buy a new airpark home. Now wouldn't THAT be a sad irony: to have to sell my RV8 to afford the down payment on an airpark house. Chin up. :) Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: skin crease
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough" I have started VS and have noticed the VS skin about 2-3 inches fron leading edge has a slight skin crease in it from top to bottom only on one side..anyone else had this Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours later, starting to "feel normal" again. I can't imagine how Randy feels!! I mean, he probably won't tell you about his restless night, getting up at 4:30am, not eating a good breakfast, etc... so, I am. He spent some family time around the lunch hour with plans to do some more flying while the weather was clear. He's probably still out there flying around incoming cells. It was an exhilarating experience to be there. As many have said before, keep pounding those rivets -you're in for the ride of your life!! Bruce Do not archive Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours later, starting to "feel normal" again.I can't imagine how Randy feels!! I mean, he probably won't tell you about his restless night, getting up at 4:30am, not eating a good breakfast, etc... so, I am. He spent some family time around the lunch hour with plans to do some more flying while the weather was clear. He's probably still out there flying around incoming cells. It was an exhilarating experience to be there. As many have said before, keep pounding those rivets -you're in for the ride of your life!! Bruce Do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: skin crease
--> RV10-List message posted by: Chris, Mine was perfect, cloco it on and see what happens, if not get with vans to replace, the skin contribute greatly to the strength of the entire assembly. Take a phot, email it to Vans and see if it is OK. If it is minor they may say it's good but the final call is yours and they have been good about standing behind bum parts and such with me. Rick S. 40185 Flaps ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> Subject: RV10-List: skin crease > --> RV10-List message posted by: "Chris , Susie McGough" > > > I have started VS and have noticed the VS skin about 2-3 inches fron > leading edge has a slight skin crease in it from top to bottom only on one > side..anyone else had this > > Chris > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
Subject: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Bruce, don't worry I picked up the slack watching when you left. Randy has still not eaten much. Pulling the plane out then back between thundershowers was a hoot. Tim James flying GIB with Rob Hickman in Robs RV-4 have captured some inspirational inflight Aircraft to Aircraft video. Rob and Randy are downloading the data points from the ACS2500 right now. Way too cool. The smell of the new engine is a unique memory. Digital video will be forwarded to Tim Olson for final presentation after Randy gets dinner. Went out again this afternoon. The absolute kick in the pants was asking Randy to pull up at VANS when he got back from his hour and a half run dodging the cells. Dick was coming out of the building to jump in the RV-9 and head home. He did a big U turn back into the building and out came the entire staff to give Randy and his family kudos they so richly deserve for completing the entire aircraft and making sure every single system worked. No high speed passes with this owner. Still digitals images of the event will be sent to Tim as well. I have to get my wet clothes off and change into something dry..... But they say it's a warm rain here this time of year. John Cox - KUAO ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BBreckenridge(at)att.net Subject: RV10-List: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10 Ok, like this is really driving me crazy. I'm only now, 5 hours later, starting to "feel normal" again. I can't imagine how Randy feels!! I mean, he probably won't tell you about his restless night, getting up at 4:30am, not eating a good breakfast, etc... so, I am. He spent some family time around the lunch hour with plans to do some more flying while the weather was clear. He's probably still out there flying around incoming cells. It was an exhilarating experience to be there. As many have said before, keep pounding those rivets -you're in for the ride of your life!! Bruce Do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
NOW that's what I wanted to hear!! We were a relatively small group for such a big event (well, to us anyway!). He deserved the cheering and congrats. Heckofa nice guy. Ok, now I feel better - time to go see what's on my camera & video stuff. Bruce Do not archive The absolute kick in the pants was asking Randy to pull up at VANS when he got back from his hour and a half run dodging the cells. Dick was coming out of the building to jump in the RV-9 and head home. He did a big U turn back into the building and out came the entire staff to give Randy and his family kudos they so richly deserve for completing the entire aircraft and making sure every single system worked. NOW that's what I wanted to hear!! We were a relatively small group for such a big event (well, to us anyway!). He deserved the cheering and congrats. Heckofa nice guy. Ok, now I feel better - time to go see what's on my camera video stuff. Bruce Do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
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From: Bill McCoy <hoverlover9797(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: massive bummer
Must be something in the air! I also got the no longer needed song this past week. I just finished the h. stab! Any one looking for an instumentation tech? PLC's, Flow computers? Sorry to hear your bad news, I just want to let you know that I'm in the same boat! Mark #40167 Vikki wrote: --> RV10-List message posted by: "Vikki" Well I have almost completed the Tail kit and was looking forward to the wing kit, however my employer had other thoughts, my services at this large aerospace company will no longer be needed and just like that i find myself unemployed, this is a massive bummer....so any one with a lead for a avaition middle manager, A&P and IA type schooled in the fine arts of production control and everything turboprop please let me know! JD Nichols RV-10 #320 AP/IA --------------------------------- Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
In a message dated 5/20/2005 4:31:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes: http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html Congratulations, what a beautiful sight! Bob Spudis do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 20, 2005
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" Randy, Great sight. Congratulations! John Jessen -> just 2 years more -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10 --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson 10:16am - 5/20/2005 Randy will do the story....but here's a teaser video by Bruce Breckenridge! http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html -- Tim Olson DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Randy #006 - 2nd Flying RV-10
--> RV10-List message posted by: James Hein When you have the video completed, I'd like to get a high quality copy (mpeg-2). I can volunteer an FTP site I control for distributing the video to others if needed. Why do I want a high quality copy? To put on DVD to show friends, family, coworkers, etc. Oh, and to inspire me when I get stuck! Congrats Randy! -Jim 40384... Just FINISHED the vertical stabilizer (26 hours)! Woohoo! On to the rudder! BBreckenridge(at)att.net wrote: > when he got back from his hour and a half run dodging the cells. Dick > was coming out of the building to jump in the RV-9 and head home. He > did a big U turn back into the building and out came the entire staff > to give Randy and his family kudos they so richly deserve for > completing the entire aircraft and making sure every single system > worked.> > NOW that's what I wanted to hear!! We were a relatively small group > for such a big event (well, to us anyway!). He deserved the cheering > and congrats. Heckofa nice guy. Ok, now I feel better - time to go > see what's on my camera & video stuff. > > Bruce > > Do not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Randy's First Flight Story - By Randy Himself
--> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Randy had me post this for him. Here are the details of his first flight!! ------ Well are you ready for the story? My day started about 4:30 am. I was up now and can't sleep. I started for the airport at 5:50. When I got there I made one last look over the plane to see if anything had been missed. The plane looks ready. Tim James the owner/ builder of the Glastar you can see in some of my photos had written down his recommondations for the first flight. I read through them and wrote down approach speeds and power setting for break-in on a sticky note and placed it in on the panel. Tim had received speeds from Van and Ken Kruger on Thursday and also called Norm at Premier Aircraft the(engine builder) to confirm the power settings. Back to the day. Tim showed up at 7:00 and after doing a little mixture adjusting on a friends plane we pulled his Glastar out to go and "take a look". As we were about to take off but we had to wait for Van to land on his way to work in the RV9. We took a look around and the ceiling was 4000 ft or so. We are a go for first flight. We rolled N610RV out and I said the good-by's and received the good lucks and got in and waited for Tim and Rob Hickman to get settled into Rob's RV4. Rob offered to act as a chase plane on Thursday night so he and Tim could check for oil leaks or other problems. What a great help Rob was in the last day's before my flight and now the day of. He also had the digital video camera that Tim will use during the flight. Yes we have inflight video. You will see it soon. Back to the flight. I sarted up and taxied out to the north end of Aurora airport and was noticing very low temps on cyl #6. As I went throught the pre flight checkliist and mag check the # 6 cyl was dead, no egt temp to speek of. I decided we needed to check it out so back to the hanger we went. We pulled the top cowl and did a leak down on # 6 cyl and all was well with compression as expected. Our first thought was that the plugs were oil fouled.. By this time it is 8:30 and the mechanics from the local aviation shop come down to see what is happening. We tell them we think it is oil fowled plugs and they confirmed they see that very often in rebuilt engines. There advice is "get in it and go". "You can't burn the excess oil off it until you get some load and heat buildup in the cyl". By then we had got ahold of Norm and he confirmed that with the preserative oils that were put into the cyl's for storage and new rings that the I needed to "get in it and Go". So we pulled the lower cowl and cleaned the plugs with brake cleaner and reinstalled them. By this time the sky's have opended up and it is raining hard. We had time. We cowled up the plane and waited. The rain only lasted an hour or so. Tim went back up in the Glastar to see what was headed our way. Looked good. We saddled up and started off. To save ground running time I did most of my checks on the taxi. All cyl looked good now, good EGT's. I stopped long enough to do a prop check and we were off. I rolled the power in over a long period of time just keep and ear and an eye on everything. The take-off roll was much longer then normal and just what I wanted. LIFT OFF. What a feeling! You cannot describe it.... 1 year and 8 months and it is the air painted and looking good. I was a little late on retracting the flaps (a lot going through my head). Flaps up and I climbed out at about 90 kts. Just a note here on gauges. It dawned on me after the first flight that I never looked at the Dynon for anything but pitch. I didn't even know if the airspeed and altitude were working on the Dynon. I flew strickly by the steam gauges because they were right where I expected them to be and they told what I wanted to know. Interesting. Anyway back to the climb out. I continued as far south of the runway as I wanted and headed on a crosswind leg. First turn felt exactly like 410RV. I continued clinbing turns until we made 4000 ft. and level off. High power setting for break-in was 26 man pressure and 2400 rpm. for the first 3 hours. We were not going to fly that long on the first flight. We few going to play it by ear. After 10 minutes or so Rob was asking for temps and pressures. I relayed them and he confirmed we were in the green. I will say the ACS2500 kept telling me to check fuel flow. As it turned out I hadn't set the flight fuel at the same reading as ground fuel. Rob knew what was causing it and said we will program it on the ground. Back to the flight. The plane flies exactly like the factory plane. I would encourage everyone to spend the money and fly some transition training in the 10. I was much less apprehensive as soon as I made the first turn, I know this feel, this response, no problem. After about 30 min some more showers were headed our way. Rob suggested we head down and wait them out. We had thunder showers all day high winds just before and during then good weather in between. I didn't want to make the first landing in high winds so down we went. I left in the high power all the way to the upwind leg of the landing. Landing was uneventful as you can see on the video's. I taxied up to the video crew and shook some hands and got a kiss or two Then taxied to the hanger were we pulled the top cowl again for a look. Dry clean and ready to go but I was starving. By this time it was 11:00 and I had to make some calls and calls and calls. Rob had to get some work done and Bruce wanted to go back and get the video on the net. We went to lunch and talked about things. I am going back out to the hanger now to fly some more. I will write about the second flight and anything new tonight. I have 3.12 hours on the plane now so you can see that there is more to talk about. Randy #006 N610RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2005
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Randy's First Flight Story
Randy Congratulations! Looks like you have a great support staff as well! Jim C #40192 - Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Randy's First Flight Story - By Randy Himself
Date: May 21, 2005
Super job....I had butterflys just reading it. Congrats Randy, and thanks for including all of us in your experience. Rick S. 40185 Wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Subject: RV10-List: Randy's First Flight Story - By Randy Himself > > Randy had me post this for him. Here are the details of his first > flight!! > > ------ > > Well are you ready for the story? My day started about 4:30 am. I was up > now and can't sleep. I started for the airport at 5:50. When I got there I > made one last look over the plane to see if anything had been missed. The > plane looks ready. Tim James the owner/ builder of the Glastar you can > see in some of my photos had written down his recommondations for the > first flight. I read through them and wrote down approach speeds and power > setting for break-in on a sticky note and placed it in on the panel. Tim > had received speeds from Van and Ken Kruger on Thursday and also called > Norm at Premier Aircraft the(engine builder) to confirm the power > settings. Back to the day. > Tim showed up at 7:00 and after doing a little mixture adjusting on a > friends plane we pulled his Glastar out to go and "take a look". As we > were about to take off but we had to wait for Van to land on his way to > work in the RV9. We took a look around and the ceiling was 4000 ft or so. > We are a go for first flight. > We rolled N610RV out and I said the good-by's and received the good lucks > and got in and waited for Tim and Rob Hickman to get settled into Rob's > RV4. Rob offered to act as a chase plane on Thursday night so he and Tim > could check for oil leaks or other problems. What a great help Rob was in > the last day's before my flight and now the day of. He also had the > digital video camera that Tim will use during the flight. Yes we have > inflight video. You will see it soon. Back to the flight. > I sarted up and taxied out to the north end of Aurora airport and was > noticing very low temps on cyl #6. As I went throught the pre flight > checkliist and mag check the # 6 cyl was dead, no egt temp to speek of. I > decided we needed to check it out so back to the hanger we went. > We pulled the top cowl and did a leak down on # 6 cyl and all was well > with compression as expected. Our first thought was that the plugs were > oil fouled.. By this time it is 8:30 and the mechanics from the local > aviation shop come down to see what is happening. We tell them we think it > is oil fowled plugs and they confirmed they see that very often in rebuilt > engines. There advice is "get in it and go". "You can't burn the excess > oil off it until you get some load and heat buildup in the cyl". By then > we had got ahold of Norm and he confirmed that with the preserative oils > that were put into the cyl's for storage and new rings that the I needed > to "get in it and Go". So we pulled the lower cowl and cleaned the plugs > with brake cleaner and reinstalled them. By this time the sky's have > opended up and it is raining hard. We had time. We cowled up the plane > and waited. The rain only lasted an hour or so. Tim went back up in the > Glastar to see what was headed our way. Looked good. We saddled up and > started off. > To save ground running time I did most of my checks on the taxi. All cyl > looked good now, good EGT's. I stopped long enough to do a prop check and > we were off. I rolled the power in over a long period of time just keep > and ear and an eye on everything. The take-off roll was much longer then > normal and just what I wanted. > LIFT OFF. What a feeling! You cannot describe it.... 1 year and 8 > months and it is the air painted and looking good. > I was a little late on retracting the flaps (a lot going through my head). > Flaps up and I climbed out at about 90 kts. Just a note here on gauges. It > dawned on me after the first flight that I never looked at the Dynon for > anything but pitch. I didn't even know if the airspeed and altitude were > working on the Dynon. I flew strickly by the steam gauges because they > were right where I expected them to be and they told what I wanted to > know. Interesting. Anyway back to the climb out. I continued as far > south of the runway as I wanted and headed on a crosswind leg. First turn > felt exactly like 410RV. I continued clinbing turns until we made 4000 > ft. and level off. High power setting for break-in was 26 man pressure > and 2400 rpm. for the first 3 hours. We were not going to fly that long on > the first flight. We few going to play it by ear. After 10 minutes or so > Rob was asking for temps and pressures. I relayed them and he confirmed > we were in the green. I will say the ACS2500 kept telling me to check fuel > flow. As it turned out I hadn't set the flight fuel at the same reading > as ground fuel. Rob knew what was causing it and said we will program it > on the ground. Back to the flight. > The plane flies exactly like the factory plane. I would encourage > everyone to spend the money and fly some transition training in the 10. I > was much less apprehensive as soon as I made the first turn, I know this > feel, this response, no problem. > After about 30 min some more showers were headed our way. Rob suggested we > head down and wait them out. We had thunder showers all day high winds > just before and during then good weather in between. I didn't want to > make the first landing in high winds so down we went. I left in the high > power all the way to the upwind leg of the landing. Landing was > uneventful as you can see on the video's. I taxied up to the video crew > and shook some hands and got a kiss or two Then taxied to the hanger were > we pulled the top cowl again for a look. Dry clean and ready to go but I > was starving. > By this time it was 11:00 and I had to make some calls and calls and > calls. Rob had to get some work done and Bruce wanted to go back and get > the video on the net. We went to lunch and talked about things. > > I am going back out to the hanger now to fly some more. I will write > about the second flight and anything new tonight. I have 3.12 hours on > the plane now so you can see that there is more to talk about. > > Randy #006 N610RV > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Randys 1st flight
Date: May 21, 2005
Congratulations Randy on the first flight of N610RV . Can't wait for that day for us. Brian Bollaert ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Date: May 21, 2005
Hi all, I'm working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking bar won't get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? Thanks, James ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Second part of the story.
Date: May 21, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
Well so there we were all full from lunch and these very black clouds coming from the SW were heading our way. We pulled Tim's Glastar in the hanger with N610RV. Then put Rob plane away in a RV9 friends hanger. We waited out the weather trying to watch the in flight video on the big screen but were not set up with cables to do it. Mean time the weather was clearing and it was time for trip two. We rolled out the plane and fired it up. The plan was to run at least 2 hours at high power settings again. I headed out and climbed to 4000 ft. above the airport again. Around and around and around, first left had turns then RH. All the time I kept my eye on some more thunder showers heading to the airport. Well I asked Tim about the wind and he said it was ok but that I should venture out to and airport 8 miles or so east and orbit there some more. We are really running good now and a little change of view was in order. Well after another 45 min. or so my home airport was reporting 16 kt winds and 3/4 mile visibility and it was heading my way... There was some clear area to the south well with in my 50 mile radius of the airport. So I headed south over farm land with lots of areas to land if there was a problem. I got a bump or two and tightened the belt to keep from hitting my head but I had already gone through the worst of it and I was coming around the back side of the cell. The runway was wet but light winds. I stayed up another 15 min or so and came down. I was a little fast but it saved me a long taxi down to the south end were Van's Factory is. Most of them knew I was coming but Van didn't get the message. He was taxiing out in the 9 when he saw me and did a u-turn and climbed out. As he came over he said "that looks like an RV Grin." It looks nice he said in Van's usual thoughtful manner. I shook his hand and thanked him for such a wonderful kit. Then several of the guy's came out to look it over and see the Lancair Panel. They seemed to all like the panel and console. They are always looking at how there kits are completed. It started to rain again and that caused everyone to scatter and was my queue to head for the barn. Total time on airframe 3.17 hours. Day 2. Great day to do some more testing. I started with some fuel. This full power thing is expensive. I used 100.00 worth of fuel yesterday and today may be close to the same. I was at the fuel dock and here comes 410RV out on the taxi way. It took off but I couldn't see who was flying. On Saturday it had to be one of those Van guy's. About 5 min later it landed while I was taxing out for take off. There we were 2 RV10's 1 factory 1 customer taking off 1 2. Now that is a first I guarantee. Well they came up along side of me and Ken Scott, the famous Rob Hickman and Jeff the real Hickman RV10 builder was in the back seat. The were getting some numbers for programming the RV10 ACS2500 engine monitor. I worked the engine over for 45 min or so and made my way to Albany, Oregon airport. They have a convention center on the field and have a fly in this weekend. I am set up on final and this is not a real long strip, not short but not long. I felt I was too fast and felt a go-around was in order. This is only my 3rd landing mind you. Well as it worked out it was very timely. Scott Rison the GM of Van's was at the show with the RV9A and saw my go-around. He thought it was just a take-off. Well he elbowed his wife and told her " there is an RV10 and it isn't ours." Scotts wife was the one who took my money for the kit at Oshkosh 2 year ago. Oh the go around. The second attempt was good and I spent a some time talking to several people I know that were at the show. After an hour and a half it was time to go. I fired it up and headed for home. I was spending some time checking things out on the way back and did some slow flight when it started to rain again. I decided the weather surely will be better tomorrow and I can spend several hours in the air. As it was looking the rain wasn't going to go away soon. So I made my 4th landing in N610RV and they all have been very respectable so far and I hope to keep it that way. Thanks to everyone for the kind words the last few hours. What a ride. total time 5 hours. Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Date: May 21, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
That is what you do James. In fact you have to pop one side in and then work the other side in by squeezing it a little at a time. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? Hi all, I'm working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking bar won't get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? Thanks, James ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Date: May 21, 2005
Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 Hrm just to be clear you are saying to use a blind rivet on both sides? Sorry, just want to be sure I have it right ;) Thanks, James From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? That is what you do James. In fact you have to pop one side in and then work the other side in by squeezing it a little at a time. Randy From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? Hi all, Im working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking bar wont get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? Thanks, James ________________________________________________________________________________ ;
Date: May 21, 2005
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
LOL!!! We are at the exact same spot and I just came in to ask the exact same question. I figure that a no-hole yoke might do it, but unfortunately I don't have one yet. Any ideas that doesn't involve a no-hole? --Shawn 40366 James Ochs wrote: Hi all, Im working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking bar wont get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? Thanks, James --------------------------------- Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour ________________________________________________________________________________ ;
Date: May 21, 2005
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Randy's First Flight Story - By Randy Himself
Congrats Randy!! --Shawn 40366 Tim Olson wrote: Randy had me post this for him. Here are the details of his first flight!! ------ Well are you ready for the story? My day started about 4:30 am. I was up now and can't sleep. I started for the airport at 5:50. When I got there I made one last look over the plane to see if anything had been missed. The plane looks ready. Tim James the owner/ builder of the Glastar you can see in some of my photos had written down his recommondations for the first flight. I read through them and wrote down approach speeds and power setting for break-in on a sticky note and placed it in on the panel. Tim had received speeds from Van and Ken Kruger on Thursday and also called Norm at Premier Aircraft the(engine builder) to confirm the power settings. Back to the day. Tim showed up at 7:00 and after doing a little mixture adjusting on a friends plane we pulled his Glastar out to go and "take a look". As we were about to take off but we had to wait for Van to land on his way to work in the RV9. We took a look around and the ceiling was 4000 ft or so. We are a go for first flight. We rolled N610RV out and I said the good-by's and received the good lucks and got in and waited for Tim and Rob Hickman to get settled into Rob's RV4. Rob offered to act as a chase plane on Thursday night so he and Tim could check for oil leaks or other problems. What a great help Rob was in the last day's before my flight and now the day of. He also had the digital video camera that Tim will use during the flight. Yes we have inflight video. You will see it soon. Back to the flight. I sarted up and taxied out to the north end of Aurora airport and was noticing very low temps on cyl #6. As I went throught the pre flight checkliist and mag check the # 6 cyl was dead, no egt temp to speek of. I decided we needed to check it out so back to the hanger we went. We pulled the top cowl and did a leak down on # 6 cyl and all was well with compression as expected. Our first thought was that the plugs were oil fouled.. By this time it is 8:30 and the mechanics from the local aviation shop come down to see what is happening. We tell them we think it is oil fowled plugs and they confirmed they see that very often in rebuilt engines. There advice is "get in it and go". "You can't burn the excess oil off it until you get some load and heat buildup in the cyl". By then we had got ahold of Norm and he confirmed that with the preserative oils that were put into the cyl's for storage and new rings that the I needed to "get in it and Go". So we pulled the lower cowl and cleaned the plugs with brake cleaner and reinstalled them. By this time the sky's have opended up and it is raining hard. We had time. We cowled up the plane and waited. The rain only lasted an hour or so. Tim went back up in the Glastar to see what was headed our way. Looked good. We saddled up and started off. To save ground running time I did most of my checks on the taxi. All cyl looked good now, good EGT's. I stopped long enough to do a prop check and we were off. I rolled the power in over a long period of time just keep and ear and an eye on everything. The take-off roll was much longer then normal and just what I wanted. LIFT OFF. What a feeling! You cannot describe it.... 1 year and 8 months and it is the air painted and looking good. I was a little late on retracting the flaps (a lot going through my head). Flaps up and I climbed out at about 90 kts. Just a note here on gauges. It dawned on me after the first flight that I never looked at the Dynon for anything but pitch. I didn't even know if the airspeed and altitude were working on the Dynon. I flew strickly by the steam gauges because they were right where I expected them to be and they told what I wanted to know. Interesting. Anyway back to the climb out. I continued as far south of the runway as I wanted and headed on a crosswind leg. First turn felt exactly like 410RV. I continued clinbing turns until we made 4000 ft. and level off. High power setting for break-in was 26 man pressure and 2400 rpm. for the first 3 hours. We were not going to fly that long on the first flight. We few going to play it by ear. After 10 minutes or so Rob was asking for temps and pressures. I relayed them and he confirmed we were in the green. I will say the ACS2500 kept telling me to check fuel flow. As it turned out I hadn't set the flight fuel at the same reading as ground fuel. Rob knew what was causing it and said we will program it on the ground. Back to the flight. The plane flies exactly like the factory plane. I would encourage everyone to spend the money and fly some transition training in the 10. I was much less apprehensive as soon as I made the first turn, I know this feel, this response, no problem. After about 30 min some more showers were headed our way. Rob suggested we head down and wait them out. We had thunder showers all day high winds just before and during then good weather in between. I didn't want to make the first landing in high winds so down we went. I left in the high power all the way to the upwind leg of the landing. Landing was uneventful as you can see on the video's. I taxied up to the video crew and shook some hands and got a kiss or two Then taxied to the hanger were we pulled the top cowl again for a look. Dry clean and ready to go but I was starving. By this time it was 11:00 and I had to make some calls and calls and calls. Rob had to get some work done and Bruce wanted to go back and get the video on the net. We went to lunch and talked about things. I am going back out to the hanger now to fly some more. I will write about the second flight and anything new tonight. I have 3.12 hours on the plane now so you can see that there is more to talk about. Randy #006 N610RV ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 21, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Yeah, that's what he's saying. You can use those blind rivets in plenty of places when you find one that you know is gonna cause you headaches. Tim James Ochs wrote: > > Hrm just to be clear you are saying to use a blind rivet on both sides? > > Sorry, just want to be sure I have it right ;) > > Thanks, > James > > ________________________________________ > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw > Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 8:50 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? > > That is what you do James. In fact you have to pop one side in and then > work the other side in by squeezing it a little at a time. Randy > > ________________________________________ > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of James Ochs > Sent: Sat 5/21/2005 8:03 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? > Hi all, > > Im working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet > in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the > bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the > plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking > bar wont get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget > getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind > rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? > > Thanks, > James > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Date: May 21, 2005
If I remember correctly, you have to start to compress the rivet a little then you will gain a little more space to finish it off. As Randy mentions, you have to go through a process to get this rivet finished. I also read an article about someone using the back rivet plate under that area of the rudder and using a thin pry bar on top of the shop head. Hit the pry bar with your gun near the rivet and it should do the trick. Good luck, Sean #40225 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon Subject: Re: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? LOL!!! We are at the exact same spot and I just came in to ask the exact same question. I figure that a no-hole yoke might do it, but unfortunately I don't have one yet. Any ideas that doesn't involve a no-hole? --Shawn 40366 James Ochs wrote: Hi all, I=12m working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking bar won=12t get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? Thanks, James _____ Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour <http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Date: May 21, 2005
Randy, Now that the plane is flying, and the construction is all done, you might go through withdrawal from not building anymore. Just an idea...I've got a long way to go and would be happy to let you help! All kidding aside, great job on your project and congratulations! It is a real benefit to see all of this happen and we appreciate the extra effort of sharing your experience with us. Be safe, Sean #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________ ;
Date: May 21, 2005
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Thanks for the replys. I think I am going to go the pop rivet route. --Shawn 40366 Sean Blair wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} If I remember correctly, you have to start to compress the rivet a little then you will gain a little more space to finish it off. As Randy mentions, you have to go through a process to get this rivet finished. I also read an article about someone using the back rivet plate under that area of the rudder and using a thin pry bar on top of the shop head. Hit the pry bar with your gun near the rivet and it should do the trick. Good luck, Sean #40225 --------------------------------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon Subject: Re: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? LOL!!! We are at the exact same spot and I just came in to ask the exact same question. I figure that a no-hole yoke might do it, but unfortunately I don't have one yet. Any ideas that doesn't involve a no-hole? --Shawn 40366 James Ochs wrote: Hi all, Im working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking bar wont get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? Thanks, James --------------------------------- Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Debur question
Date: May 22, 2005
Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 OK. I've looked at Chapter 5, I've looked at my take home material from the EAA metal airplane building course, and I'm sure I haven't tried the correct source yet, but, growing impatient, I ask you this.... How the heck do you debur the edges inside the spaces of such pieces as the VS ribs? You know, those spaces where you can't get anything in, shaped somewhat like a U. ??? I'm assuming there is a way, although I've tried my edge debur tool, I've tried using a small bit of maroon Scotchbrite, I've looked cross-eyed at my Dremel tool. Any suggestions would be appreciated. John Jessen -> Emp (2%) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Engine Run In Artical from Lycoming
Date: May 22, 2005
Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 Thought this might be of interest, given what Randy just went through with the cylinders. http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyR eprints/operation/engineBreakIn.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Ochs" <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Debur question
Date: May 22, 2005
Do you mean the drill holes or the other areas? If it's the drill holes, then you might want to try one of the cogsdill deburring bits. For other areas, I've been successful with a right angle attachment on a drill/dremel/ die grinder with a small scotchbrite wheel. The cogsdill tools: http://www.cogsdill.com/deburring.html Here's the scotchbrite wheels: http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=445 <http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=445&cat=58&kit=0> &cat=58&kit=0 James #40400 Getting ready to proseal the rudder.. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Debur question OK. I've looked at Chapter 5, I've looked at my take home material from the EAA metal airplane building course, and I'm sure I haven't tried the correct source yet, but, growing impatient, I ask you this.... How the heck do you debur the edges inside the spaces of such pieces as the VS ribs? You know, those spaces where you can't get anything in, shaped somewhat like a U. ??? I'm assuming there is a way, although I've tried my edge debur tool, I've tried using a small bit of maroon Scotchbrite, I've looked cross-eyed at my Dremel tool. Any suggestions would be appreciated. John Jessen -> Emp (2%) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Debur question
John, I've been told by another RV builder that I trust that the holes to which would cause you such grief to deburr... forget it. In his words: "We tend to be very anal... The commercial manufacturers will drill and deburr only the exposed holes (without removing the mating parts) and then rivet. I try to deburr everything anyway, and what I found works well is taking a small pointy-tip Dremel grinding bit and spin it by hand in the hole. It works well, and is pretty fast. Other people have used a special deburring tool callled "Cogsdill Burraway tool". Some people swear by them, although I haven't used one yet. -Jim 40384, completed vertical stabilizer.. working on rudder John Jessen wrote: > OK. I've looked at Chapter 5, I've looked at my take home material > from the EAA metal airplane building course, and I'm sure I haven't > tried the correct source yet, but, growing impatient, I ask you this.... > > How the heck do you debur the edges inside the spaces of such pieces > as the VS ribs? You know, those spaces where you can't get anything > in, shaped somewhat like a U. ??? I'm assuming there is a way, > although I've tried my edge debur tool, I've tried using a small bit > of maroon Scotchbrite, I've looked cross-eyed at my Dremel tool. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > John Jessen > -> Emp (2%) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Debur question
Date: May 22, 2005
The drill holes are ok. I've got the standard swivel deburring tool and have the Cogsdill one on order. It's the other areas, and I think that you've solved my problem. I'd gone onto Avery earlier but missed this. Right angle attachment? Probably have those at HD. They seem to have a large amount of Dremel paraphernalia, although no Scotchbrite wheels. Thanks! John Jessen -> Emp (2%) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: RE: RV10-List: Debur question Do you mean the drill holes or the other areas? If it's the drill holes, then you might want to try one of the cogsdill deburring bits. For other areas, I've been successful with a right angle attachment on a drill/dremel/ die grinder with a small scotchbrite wheel. The cogsdill tools: http://www.cogsdill.com/deburring.html Here's the scotchbrite wheels: http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=445 <http://www.averytools.com/showoneitem.cfm?primarykey=445&cat=58&kit=0> &cat=58&kit=0 James #40400 Getting ready to proseal the rudder.. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Debur question OK. I've looked at Chapter 5, I've looked at my take home material from the EAA metal airplane building course, and I'm sure I haven't tried the correct source yet, but, growing impatient, I ask you this.... How the heck do you debur the edges inside the spaces of such pieces as the VS ribs? You know, those spaces where you can't get anything in, shaped somewhat like a U. ??? I'm assuming there is a way, although I've tried my edge debur tool, I've tried using a small bit of maroon Scotchbrite, I've looked cross-eyed at my Dremel tool. Any suggestions would be appreciated. John Jessen -> Emp (2%) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Video Anxiety
Is it just me, or are other people sitting in front of their computer constantly hitting the Refresh button while on Randy's page on Tim's site? :) Sean #40303 (Bored waiting for very late wing kit...) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 22, 2005
We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Video Anxiety
I thought I was the only one! Seriously though, I just finished the alodine/priming routine on the rudder parts, so I have nothing to do for a while. Sean, Did you get a QB wing, or standard? Also, how late is it? (I want to know so I can order mine at the proper time...) -Jim 40384 Sean Stephens wrote: > > Is it just me, or are other people sitting in front of their computer > constantly hitting the Refresh button while on Randy's page on Tim's > site? :) > > Sean #40303 (Bored waiting for very late wing kit...) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Video Anxiety
<4290FF27.60102(at)arrl.net> > > I thought I was the only one! I have a feeling there's a few! > Seriously though, I just finished the alodine/priming routine on the > rudder parts, so I have nothing to do for a while. > > Sean, Did you get a QB wing, or standard? Also, how late is it? (I > want to know so I can order mine at the proper time...) > Standard kit. Was supposed to ship on May 9th, but still hasn't. :( I think the lead times on Van's site are currently way off. This is unfortunate, because many builders use these times as an indication of when to order the next kit. Instead, I'm stuck here for a month with nothing to do. Of course that's not half as bad as the QB guys had recently, but still... Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted French" <ted_french(at)telus.net>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 22, 2005
There are two dynafocal mounts used with lycoming and they have different angles. Sounds like your engine is designed for the other angle than your mount is... Ted French RV-6A flying RV-10 building -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: May 22, 2005 2:43 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut(at)engalt.com>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 22, 2005
They mentioned somethng about that at the 10 forum at SNF. I believe they said you could buy the different ears. Brian Kraut Engineering Alternatives, Inc. www.engalt.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ted French Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 6:19 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears There are two dynafocal mounts used with lycoming and they have different angles. Sounds like your engine is designed for the other angle than your mount is... Ted French RV-6A flying RV-10 building -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: May 22, 2005 2:43 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 22, 2005
I used a similar engine (from an Aztec) on my Skybolt and had the same problem. Fortunately the ears bolt on and you can get a different set, I'd try one of the salvage places before I'd buy a new set. Wentworth supposedly has a ton of stuff, but I can't seem to get them to respond to any of my questions about buying a used engine for the RV-10 so good luck. Marcus Dimpling the Tailcone - QB fuselage is supposed to be on the way with the wings in close trail -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 22, 2005
Which set did you get and which set did you have to buy? Do you think your unused set would work for me? Anybody know about how much they would cost new? What is the specific item name to search for on Google? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears I used a similar engine (from an Aztec) on my Skybolt and had the same problem. Fortunately the ears bolt on and you can get a different set, I'd try one of the salvage places before I'd buy a new set. Wentworth supposedly has a ton of stuff, but I can't seem to get them to respond to any of my questions about buying a used engine for the RV-10 so good luck. Marcus Dimpling the Tailcone - QB fuselage is supposed to be on the way with the wings in close trail -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 22, 2005
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Video Anxiety
I've have had a pretty good delivery so far from Van's within a week or so of the date they said they would send the kits. My next kit is the finish, suppose to ship July 27. I'm about to start on the fuselage. I've got to order the engine next week to get it here for Sept. At SNF lycoming said 10 week but van says 16. I really don't want it sitting around for a month or two before I need it but don't want to be waiting either. KIT 257 Pat Thyssen Sean Stephens wrote: > > I thought I was the only one! I have a feeling there's a few! > Seriously though, I just finished the alodine/priming routine on the > rudder parts, so I have nothing to do for a while. > > Sean, Did you get a QB wing, or standard? Also, how late is it? (I > want to know so I can order mine at the proper time...) > Standard kit. Was supposed to ship on May 9th, but still hasn't. :( I think the lead times on Van's site are currently way off. This is unfortunate, because many builders use these times as an indication of when to order the next kit. Instead, I'm stuck here for a month with nothing to do. Of course that's not half as bad as the QB guys had recently, but still... Sean #40303 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: Debur question
Date: May 23, 2005
If you are really interested in deburring between the rib flanges, I've found that the emery boards women use for filing their fingernails work well. So does any small flat file like those used for cleaning up spark plugs. Ron Wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Debur question OK. I've looked at Chapter 5, I've looked at my take home material from the EAA metal airplane building course, and I'm sure I haven't tried the correct source yet, but, growing impatient, I ask you this.... How the heck do you debur the edges inside the spaces of such pieces as the VS ribs? You know, those spaces where you can't get anything in, shaped somewhat like a U. ??? I'm assuming there is a way, although I've tried my edge debur tool, I've tried using a small bit of maroon Scotchbrite, I've looked cross-eyed at my Dremel tool. Any suggestions would be appreciated. John Jessen -> Emp (2%) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 22, 2005
Unfortunately I have long since jettisoned the ears that came with the engine and the Skybolt was sold about 6 years ago to make way for the RV-6 (this building airplanes thing can become habit forming!). I don't remember which model I needed, but I would just confirm with Van's what then engine mount is designed for. I know the 2-seaters are set up for a Dynafocal 1 mount but I don't know for sure if the 540s use the same designations. Good Luck, Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears Which set did you get and which set did you have to buy? Do you think your unused set would work for me? Anybody know about how much they would cost new? What is the specific item name to search for on Google? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears I used a similar engine (from an Aztec) on my Skybolt and had the same problem. Fortunately the ears bolt on and you can get a different set, I'd try one of the salvage places before I'd buy a new set. Wentworth supposedly has a ton of stuff, but I can't seem to get them to respond to any of my questions about buying a used engine for the RV-10 so good luck. Marcus Dimpling the Tailcone - QB fuselage is supposed to be on the way with the wings in close trail -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Date: May 23, 2005
Using a pop rivet - ie a MK-319-BS instead of an AN426-3 works in some cases. If you read ahead, you'll see that Van's suggests these rivets on the bottom surface of the elevator, as gives you the option of using them on the trailing edge as well. Only disadvantage is that you have to enlarge hole to 7/64" . I have seen guys use these in other places - eg leading edges of HS (but I think the solid rivets are stronger). After body filler & paint, you can't tell the difference from a solid rivet Regards Indran Chelvanayagam Bunbury, Western Australia ________________________________________________________________________________ ;
Date: May 22, 2005
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Debur question
John, Here is a link to a short video clip showing how a burraway works on a small spar that would be difficult to deburr the backside with other means. https://home.comcast.net/~sfdarton/RV10_movies/Burraway_2.avi Steve #40212 wings --- John Jessen wrote: > OK. I've looked at Chapter 5, I've looked at my > take home material from the > EAA metal airplane building course, and I'm sure I > haven't tried the correct > source yet, but, growing impatient, I ask you > this.... > > How the heck do you debur the edges inside the > spaces of such pieces as the > VS ribs? You know, those spaces where you can't get > anything in, shaped > somewhat like a U. ??? I'm assuming there is a > way, although I've tried my > edge debur tool, I've tried using a small bit of > maroon Scotchbrite, I've > looked cross-eyed at my Dremel tool. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > John Jessen > -> Emp (2%) > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)comcast.net>
Subject: QB fuse assembly problem
Date: May 22, 2005
QB fuse builders- On my quickbuild fuse I noticed that the AN3-12A bolt holes are not drilled all the way through between the outboard seat rib subassembly and the aft center spar section. Because the outboard ribs are not spot drilled, I can't even get in with my compact angle drill. Short of a mistake in the Philippines, I am not sure why van's omitted this task on the quickbuild because it is definitely going to create a big headache. The plans show that this assembly should already be drilled. I might be able to get in via a 6"+ long threaded bit (if I can find such a thing) after I remove the landing gear brackets that I just spent the afternoon installing. Another alternative is to buy an expensive long pancake drill attachment and thread the bit while it is in the spar. Any suggestions? Does anyone else's quickbuild fuse have this same problem? Thanks, Robin Wessel Tigard, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: May 23, 2005
Subject: First Flight Video
The back of my head sure looks good :) Randy's RV-10 definitely out climbed my 180 HP CS Prop RV-4, Although I did have 2 people and full fuel. What an awesome plane and it is completely finished! I can't wait to go for a ride. Saturday Jeffrey and I went out flying with Ken Scott and a customer from Austria, we had 4 people in the first RV-10 and we were still climbing at over 1800 Ft/min. We took off right behind Randy and pulled up next to him to give it a look. After flying with Randy we headed to Salem where we had some more confusion as Van's other RV-10 was also there with Ken Kruger. How many times have there been 3 RV-10's in the air in the same area at he same time? Every time I fly in the RV-10 I am more impressed, lots of room, fast, and it is so nice to fly. We can't wait to get ours finished! We came home and immediately spent the rest of the weekend working on it. Rob Hickman RV-10 #40204 Wings in three weeks!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2005
From: Phil Hall <phil(at)asibuildings.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Mount Ears
Jesse, What model # engine do you have? I am hoping I don't have the same problem. Phil 40122 > > We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on > hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn t seem to line up. It took about > an hour for us to realize that it wasn t just our imagination, but the engine > didn t fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a > lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount > from Van s and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the > right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong > engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine > that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a > common (or at least heard of before) problem. > > > > It s hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won t mount correctly. We > are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. > It s on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and > getting wired up. It s time to get the non-Van s stuff on and hooked up. > Any help would be appreciated. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Jesse Saint > > I-TEC, Inc. > > jesse(at)itecusa.org > > www.itecusa.org > > W: 352-465-4545 > > C: 352-427-0285 > > F: 815-377-3694 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 23, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
This has me wondering also since I also have a rebuilt engine. There are two part numbers shown in my parts manual (narrow deck): 70456 & 12A19770. Looks like 70456 is used much more widely than the other. It also appears that several engines including the IO-540-C4B5, O-540-B4B5 & E4B5 could be configured with either. Unfortunately the parts manual doesn't show any detail in the description, just "BRACKET, Engine mounting (Dynafocal)". FWIW, the IO-540-D4A5 (N410RV engine) is only shown with 70456. I'll have to check my engine tonight - I assume that there's a part number stamped on the actual ears. Bob #40105 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears Unfortunately I have long since jettisoned the ears that came with the engine and the Skybolt was sold about 6 years ago to make way for the RV-6 (this building airplanes thing can become habit forming!). I don't remember which model I needed, but I would just confirm with Van's what then engine mount is designed for. I know the 2-seaters are set up for a Dynafocal 1 mount but I don't know for sure if the 540s use the same designations. Good Luck, Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears Which set did you get and which set did you have to buy? Do you think your unused set would work for me? Anybody know about how much they would cost new? What is the specific item name to search for on Google? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears I used a similar engine (from an Aztec) on my Skybolt and had the same problem. Fortunately the ears bolt on and you can get a different set, I'd try one of the salvage places before I'd buy a new set. Wentworth supposedly has a ton of stuff, but I can't seem to get them to respond to any of my questions about buying a used engine for the RV-10 so good luck. Marcus Dimpling the Tailcone - QB fuselage is supposed to be on the way with the wings in close trail -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 23, 2005
I got an IO-540 C4B5 off an Aztec. Van's said that they have just found out that there is an issue with this and don't have any immediate plans to make an engine mount for the other version. That's a little disappointing. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil Hall Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears Jesse, What model # engine do you have? I am hoping I don't have the same problem. Phil 40122 > > We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on > hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn t seem to line up. It took about > an hour for us to realize that it wasn t just our imagination, but the engine > didn t fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a > lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount > from Van s and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the > right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong > engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine > that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a > common (or at least heard of before) problem. > > > > It s hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won t mount correctly. We > are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. > It s on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and > getting wired up. It s time to get the non-Van s stuff on and hooked up. > Any help would be appreciated. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Jesse Saint > > I-TEC, Inc. > > jesse(at)itecusa.org > > www.itecusa.org > > W: 352-465-4545 > > C: 352-427-0285 > > F: 815-377-3694 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2005
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Here's the answer from one who knows. Hr2pilot is John Harmon himself. Don't have part #'s for the 30 degree ears but it a firm starting point. KABONG ----- Original Message ----- From: Hr2pilot(at)aol.com Subject: Re: Fw: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears The Rocket uses the 17 degree ears because of the extended hub propeller, the 10 uses the compact hub so the 30 degree ears are what should be used. John John, it seems the RV-10 builders are having a problem with the "ear" engine mounts on IO-540's. Can you be of assistance as I'm sure this problem has come up before with HRII guys. HRII N561FS, "Jack" ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 23, 2005
70456 is the one that you want, from all of my research. They have the larger angle and smaller hole (1.3??"). Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears This has me wondering also since I also have a rebuilt engine. There are two part numbers shown in my parts manual (narrow deck): 70456 & 12A19770. Looks like 70456 is used much more widely than the other. It also appears that several engines including the IO-540-C4B5, O-540-B4B5 & E4B5 could be configured with either. Unfortunately the parts manual doesn't show any detail in the description, just "BRACKET, Engine mounting (Dynafocal)". FWIW, the IO-540-D4A5 (N410RV engine) is only shown with 70456. I'll have to check my engine tonight - I assume that there's a part number stamped on the actual ears. Bob #40105 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears Unfortunately I have long since jettisoned the ears that came with the engine and the Skybolt was sold about 6 years ago to make way for the RV-6 (this building airplanes thing can become habit forming!). I don't remember which model I needed, but I would just confirm with Van's what then engine mount is designed for. I know the 2-seaters are set up for a Dynafocal 1 mount but I don't know for sure if the 540s use the same designations. Good Luck, Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears Which set did you get and which set did you have to buy? Do you think your unused set would work for me? Anybody know about how much they would cost new? What is the specific item name to search for on Google? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears I used a similar engine (from an Aztec) on my Skybolt and had the same problem. Fortunately the ears bolt on and you can get a different set, I'd try one of the salvage places before I'd buy a new set. Wentworth supposedly has a ton of stuff, but I can't seem to get them to respond to any of my questions about buying a used engine for the RV-10 so good luck. Marcus Dimpling the Tailcone - QB fuselage is supposed to be on the way with the wings in close trail -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn't seem to line up. It took about an hour for us to realize that it wasn't just our imagination, but the engine didn't fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount from Van's and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a common (or at least heard of before) problem. It's hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won't mount correctly. We are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. It's on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and getting wired up. It's time to get the non-Van's stuff on and hooked up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2005
From: Phil Hall <phil(at)asibuildings.com>
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Jesse, Thanks for the heads up. My engine was still at the shop and had the wrong ears. They are changing them now. Phil > > 70456 is the one that you want, from all of my research. They have the > larger angle and smaller hole (1.3?? ). > > > > Jesse Saint > > I-TEC, Inc. > > jesse(at)itecusa.org > > www.itecusa.org > > W: 352-465-4545 > > C: 352-427-0285 > > F: 815-377-3694 > > ---------- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US > SSA) > Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 11:05 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears > > > > This has me wondering also since I also have a rebuilt engine. There are two > part numbers shown in my parts manual (narrow deck): 70456 & 12A19770. Looks > like 70456 is used much more widely than the other. It also appears that > several engines including the IO-540-C4B5, O-540-B4B5 & E4B5 could be > configured with either. Unfortunately the parts manual doesn t show any > detail in the description, just BRACKET, Engine mounting (Dynafocal) . FWIW, > the IO-540-D4A5 (N410RV engine) is only shown with 70456. > > > > I ll have to check my engine tonight I assume that there s a part number > stamped on the actual ears. > > > > Bob #40105 > > ---------- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 6:35 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears > > > > Unfortunately I have long since jettisoned the ears that came with the engine > and the Skybolt was sold about 6 years ago to make way for the RV-6 (this > building airplanes thing can become habit forming!). I don t remember which > model I needed, but I would just confirm with Van s what then engine mount is > designed for. I know the 2-seaters are set up for a Dynafocal 1 mount but I > don t know for sure if the 540s use the same designations. > > > > Good Luck, > > > > Marcus > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 6:48 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears > > > > Which set did you get and which set did you have to buy? Do you think your > unused set would work for me? Anybody know about how much they would cost > new? What is the specific item name to search for on Google? > > > > Thanks. > > > > Jesse Saint > > I-TEC, Inc. > > jesse(at)itecusa.org > > www.itecusa.org > > W: 352-465-4545 > > C: 352-427-0285 > > F: 815-377-3694 > > ---------- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 6:32 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears > > > > I used a similar engine (from an Aztec) on my Skybolt and had the same > problem. Fortunately the ears bolt on and you can get a different set, I d > try one of the salvage places before I d buy a new set. Wentworth supposedly > has a ton of stuff, but I can t seem to get them to respond to any of my > questions about buying a used engine for the RV-10 so good luck. > > > Marcus > > Dimpling the Tailcone QB fuselage is supposed to be on the way with the wings > in close trail > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 5:43 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Ears > > > > We bought a TBO engine off an Aztec and had it rebuilt. We were working on > hanging our engine on Saturday and it didn t seem to line up. It took about > an hour for us to realize that it wasn t just our imagination, but the engine > didn t fit the mount. It was close, but the holes on the engine ears were a > lot bigger that the rubbers were made for and the angle of the engine mount > from Van s and the engine ears were not the same, although they were in the > right location. Has anybody else heard about this? Do we have the wrong > engine? Are there different ears that we can buy and bolt onto the engine > that will fit? I can send pictures, but first wanted to know if this is a > common (or at least heard of before) problem. > > > > It s hard to fly to Oshkosh with and engine that won t mount correctly. We > are getting down to the line as far as being flying in time to get it there. > It s on the gear and getting painted this week. Panel is assembled and > getting wired up. It s time to get the non-Van s stuff on and hooked up. > Any help would be appreciated. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Jesse Saint > > I-TEC, Inc. > > jesse(at)itecusa.org > > www.itecusa.org > > W: 352-465-4545 > > C: 352-427-0285 > > F: 815-377-3694 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: Re: First Flight Video
Date: May 23, 2005
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO Rob, you're head looks great! Awesome seeing the air-to-air video. All of us on the ground (well, at least my wife and I) had a little wish to be up there! Randy, any chance you might be out at the hanger (Aurora or Lenhardt's) this evening? I have a little disk to give you... If you won't, I'll leave it on the counter at Lenhardt's with your name on it. Jack says that's a common way for all of us out there to pass items of interest to each other when we're not around to do it in person. Well done! Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2005
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: "ears"
Random thoughts to consider/ponder. In John Harmon's response he tied the prop extension size to the type of airframe. I'm not an engineer but I would think LYC would have used only one type of ear (cheaper to make & stock) and have the motor mount manufactured to fit. UNLESS the thrust line (or something else) dictated the use of two totally different mount angles. (ears) Bottom line: Don't modify the engine mount to the "fit" ears. Replace the ears with the proper ones. HRII N561FS KABONG But that's just my opinion. Note: I did not "d0 n0t arch1ve" but did trim prior posts. ----- Original Message ----- From: Hr2pilot(at)aol.com The Rocket uses the 17 degree ears because of the extended hub propeller, the 10 uses the compact hub so the 30 degree ears are what should be used. John ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there?
Date: May 23, 2005
I used a chisel backed up with an iron bar for leverage.... ----- Original Message ----- From: Shawn Moon To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 9:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: hrm... how do you get a solid rivet in there? LOL!!! We are at the exact same spot and I just came in to ask the exact same question. I figure that a no-hole yoke might do it, but unfortunately I don't have one yet. Any ideas that doesn't involve a no-hole? --Shawn 40366 James Ochs wrote: Hi all, I'm working on the rudder and trying to figure out how to get a solid rivet in the last hole (towards the trailing edge) on the right side skin on the bottom rib (the one with the rudder control horn attached). It says in the plans to use a blind rivet on the left side only. Even my thinnest bucking bar won't get in there without pushing the rivet out of the hole, and forget getting a squeezer in there. Is there any reason to not just pop a blind rivet in there on both sides and appease my OCD desire for symmetry? Thanks, James Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Video Anxiety
Date: May 23, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Maybe you will get lucky and get my wing kit that I just postponed from June 6 to July. Damn job has me traveling too much. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: RV10-List: Video Anxiety Is it just me, or are other people sitting in front of their computer constantly hitting the Refresh button while on Randy's page on Tim's site? :) Sean #40303 (Bored waiting for very late wing kit...) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 23, 2005
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Capacitance fuel senders
Hi All, I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from vans recently on this issue? Thanks, James #40400 -- There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' ________________________________________________________________________________ ;
Date: May 24, 2005
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Capacitance fuel senders
James, Last time I talked to Vans they said they might have the capacitance gauges near the end of the year. I have built my fuel tanks but did not completely close them off. I did not rivet the rear spar in place yet. According to Vans if the rear spar is not in place you should be able to install the capacitance senders. Niko James Ochs wrote: Hi All, I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from vans recently on this issue? Thanks, James #40400 -- There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Alternator?
Date: May 23, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Browsing around, what's the difference between "case mount" and "boss mount" alternators? And is there a difference between different IO-540 models, or are they all one or the other? TDT 40025 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Capacitance fuel senders
Date: May 24, 2005
Question: Why use capacitance over float? Other than some degree of accuracy? Why not go with something more fool proof, such as a dip stick? Then use fuel flow? In short, wouldn't floats be "accurate enough?" Read that as accurate enough to indicate full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and empty? John Jessen -> Emp (2%) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders  Hi All, I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from vans recently on this issue? Thanks, James #40400 -- There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 24, 2005
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Re: Capacitance fuel senders
My (limited) experience with float sensors has pretty much been in Cessna's and my conclusion is that it's probably better not to have fuel gauges at all. They stick, they read the wrong values, they move around so much that the reading is pretty much useless. If the tank is too full they read empty (this is a behaviour I've noticed in the post 2000 models they have at my local FBO). All kinds of stupid. I think they took it to heart when the FAA said the only place it needs to be accurate is at 0 (which is pretty dumb if you ask me) When I get to the point of putting together my tanks, panel and engine there will be fuel flow / totalizer all that good stuff + fuel gauges. I also generally dip the tanks if there is any question about how much fuel is in there on a visual inspection because I am really anal about fuel... I also tend to be a bit obsessive-compulsive about measuring devices... if it ain't accurate, whats the point? But that's just me ;) BTW, I emailed vans about the plates for the -10 and they said: they are in the engineering 'hopper' at this time but we don't have a definitive target date. I'd guess at least a couple months. van's James John Jessen wrote: > >Question: Why use capacitance over float? Other than some degree of >accuracy? Why not go with something more fool proof, such as a dip stick? >Then use fuel flow? In short, wouldn't floats be "accurate enough?" Read >that as accurate enough to indicate full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and empty? > >John Jessen >-> Emp (2%) > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs >Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 4:01 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders > > > > >Hi All, > >I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive >solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders to >floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm trying to >figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? Any >ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the concentric tubes >as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from vans >recently on this issue? > >Thanks, >James >#40400 > >-- >There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw >yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to >the Galaxy' > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LarryRosen(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Capacitance fuel senders
Date: May 24, 2005
I do not know what Van's plans, but Evan's Aviation Products http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/capacitive%20sender%20modification.htm will install a capacitive sender into the RV10 tanks that they put together. They may be able to help you out. Larry Rosen Waiting on QB wings -------------- Original message -------------- > > Hi All, > > I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive > solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders > to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm > trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 > yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the > concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone > heard from vans recently on this issue? > > Thanks, > James > #40400 > > -- > There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw > yourself at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the > Galaxy' > > > > > > > > > > > > > I do not know what Van's plans, but Evan's Aviation Products http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/capacitive%20sender%20modification.htm will install a capacitive sender into the RV10 tanks that they put together. They may be able to help you out. Larry Rosen Waiting on QB wings -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV10-List message posted by: James Ochs Hi All, I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from vans recently on this issue? Thanks, James #40400 -- There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. Douglas ________________________________________________________________________________ spamd1.ruraltel.net * -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_2 Message came from 24.225.10-29.x network * 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay * lines
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Which bucking bar
Date: May 24, 2005
Which bucking bar are you guys using for the HS-905 nose ribs on the HS??? Is this where the special RV-10 bucking bar comes into play??? TIA Bill Britton RV-10 Emp #40137 Riveting HS ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Flap Motor
Date: May 23, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
For various reasons, we're going to have a 24 V bus system in our -10, which can be a pain sometimes, like with the 12 V flap motor. For the short duration that the Flap motor runs, what about the crazy idea of just going ahead and running that sucker on 24 volts? Might speed up the Flap deployment, too. Or is that just a stupid way to burn out the motor? While we're on the subject, is anyone doing a simple limit-switch "one-touch" flap retraction arrangement? Where are you mounting the limit switch? On the flaps themselves, or is there any way to do it on the flap motor or actuator assembly? TDT 40025 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Capacitance fuel senders
Date: May 23, 2005
James I decided to go with totalizers, and not put senders in the tanks. After a short learning session, they will be more accurate than either type of fuel sender.. Bob K -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders Hi All, I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders to floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm trying to figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? Any ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the concentric tubes as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from vans recently on this issue? Thanks, James #40400 -- There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy' ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: milestone #1
Date: May 24, 2005
Just finished the Vertical Stab! 29 hours, which included rattle can priming. Is it just me or does it always take longer to rivet than you think? I figured that would be one of the faster parts of the build, but just the VS took me a full 10 hours to rivet. Maybe I just needed a steep learning curve on technique. Oh, I also contacted my local EAA Tech Counselor last Friday, and met him at a local Fly-in on Saturday. I wanted to establish contact with a TC and get my work on the VS looked at before I closed it up. He said good to go and we filled out the form. As a side note, he told me that if you get at least 3 TC inspections done during the course of your build, EAA's insurance program will cover you on first flight (I guess provided you get the coverage; it's not automatic), and he recommended that RVs only need 5-6 inspections during build. I assume some of you know this and may be able to expound some. I thought it a good idea to share with the rest of us in the early stages to get plugged in. It also helps to have that second set of experienced eyes looking over your work! Rob Wright #40392 N524RX Reserved Emp kit ~15% done ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Alternator?
Date: May 25, 2005
products. Tim, I found many posts in the archive. Below is one that's probably more comprehensive than most. Anh #141 (waiting for achilles tendon to heal while cheating and working on doors) Date: Oct 17, 1996 The mount type is determined by the engine you have. All current engines should use the newer boss mount. The case mount is only for very old style engines. The boss mount bolts onto a flat machined area on the case on the lower right forward side of the case. There are two or three holes tapped into this machined area that you bolt the bracket onto. The older 'case' mount uses the case through bolts to attach the alternator bracket. Look in Van's parts catalog and you will see a picture of their alternator kit. It is for boss mount only. If unsure, talk to B&C. Herman ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> Subject: RV10-List: RE: Alternator? Browsing around, what's the difference between "case mount" and "boss mount" alternators? And is there a difference between different IO-540 models, or are they all one or the other? TDT 40025 --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitance fuel senders
Date: May 24, 2005
They are more accurate, no moving parts. I perfer a dip stick check anyhow, several builders I have talked to are planning on using a fuel totalizer system anyhow. That's my plan along with the good ol' floats as a back up. I'll still pop the caps and look inside prior to flight.Old habit are hard to break. Rick S. 40185 Wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders > > Question: Why use capacitance over float? Other than some degree of > accuracy? Why not go with something more fool proof, such as a dip stick? > Then use fuel flow? In short, wouldn't floats be "accurate enough?" Read > that as accurate enough to indicate full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and empty? > > John Jessen > -> Emp (2%) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs > Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 4:01 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders > >  > > > Hi All, > > I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any definitive > solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel senders to > floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm trying > to > figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? Any > ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the concentric > tubes > as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from vans > recently on this issue? > > Thanks, > James > #40400 > > -- > There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw > yourself at the ground and miss. - Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide > to > the Galaxy' > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine Mount Ears
Date: May 24, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
All, A bit more info - I just checked my engine - mount ears are 70456, have a hole ID of ~1.3 inches and are 30 degrees. According to an earlier post from somebody that knows more than me, these are the correct ones for the Van's engine mount. For those that aren't so lucky, I saw a set of 4 ears on ebay (listing #4551583279). New price is almost $300 each!!! Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Alternator?
Date: May 24, 2005
The difference is in the engine cases. The case mount uses a bracket that uses the case flange connecting bolts to secure it. The boss mount has a cast-in pad/boss with studs to mount the bracket. The brackets are obviously different. This may be another distinction between narrow and wide deck engines as my narrow deck O-360 had a case mount. The 540's have narrow and wide deck versions too. The boss type is the newer and preferred style. Greg ________________________________ Browsing around, what's the difference between "case mount" and "boss mount" alternators? And is there a difference between different IO-540 models, or are they all one or the other? TDT 40025 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Capacitance fuel senders
Date: May 24, 2005
I have a old fashion fuel sender in my RV6 and found that if coupled with vans gages, it works very well. It is consistent and accurate at vans gauge markings. Rob. On May 24, 2005, at 1:48 PM, James Ochs wrote: > > My (limited) experience with float sensors has pretty much been in > Cessna's and my conclusion is that it's probably better not to have > fuel gauges at all. They stick, they read the wrong values, they move > around so much that the reading is pretty much useless. If the tank is > too full they read empty (this is a behaviour I've noticed in the post > 2000 models they have at my local FBO). All kinds of stupid. I think > they took it to heart when the FAA said the only place it needs to be > accurate is at 0 (which is pretty dumb if you ask me) > > When I get to the point of putting together my tanks, panel and engine > there will be fuel flow / totalizer all that good stuff + fuel gauges. > I also generally dip the tanks if there is any question about how much > fuel is in there on a visual inspection because I am really anal about > fuel... I also tend to be a bit obsessive-compulsive about measuring > devices... if it ain't accurate, whats the point? > > But that's just me ;) > > BTW, I emailed vans about the plates for the -10 and they said: > > they are in the engineering 'hopper' at this time but we don't have a > definitive target date. I'd guess at least a couple months. van's > > James > > John Jessen wrote: > >> >> Question: Why use capacitance over float? Other than some degree of >> accuracy? Why not go with something more fool proof, such as a dip >> stick? >> Then use fuel flow? In short, wouldn't floats be "accurate enough?" >> Read >> that as accurate enough to indicate full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and empty? >> John Jessen >> -> Emp (2%) >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs >> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 4:01 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance fuel senders >> >>  >> >> >> Hi All, >> >> I know this has been discussed before but I couldn't find any >> definitive >> solutions in the previous posts... I'd prefer capacitance fuel >> senders to >> floats for my 10, and as I'm getting ready to order the wings I'm >> trying to >> figure out what to do about it. Has anyone put any in their 10 yet? >> Any >> ideas? Should I just go with one of the probe type with the >> concentric tubes >> as opposed to waiting for the plates for the 10? Anyone heard from >> vans >> recently on this issue? >>


May 19, 2005 - May 23, 2005

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