RV10-Archive.digest.vol-aj
May 31, 2005 - June 08, 2005
So, those who spend the money on a Chelton, can save over $3,000 up
front on their autopilot because they won't need the sorcerer.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Narrow Deck Engine |
Just wondered if any one has experience on using Light Speed Ignition on
a narrow deck IO540? Or any solid state ignition on a narrow deck engine.
Sam Marlow
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Registration of Home-Built Aircraft |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Tim there is only one bill of sale and that is for the tail kit number.
It is up to you when you get the bill of sale. They don't send them out
automatically because everyone was loosing before they needed them.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Registration of Home-Built Aircraft
Greg,
I have now put my money down on all majory components from Van's.
The Airframe is completely delivered, I have the FWF kit paid
for an coming, and the Prop has a deposit down. My question
is this:
When asking for the Bill of Sale, which numbers do I really want?
Should I get a complete bill of sale for all parts large and small from
Van's, or only the major airframe sub-kits?
Like when I fill in the FAA paperwork, will I need a Bill of Sale from
Van's for all items, plus one from Aerosport for the engine, plus one
from the Avionics suppliers?
Just trying to get a feel for what I should be getting, since I should
soon be able to request that from Van's just to get a jump on gathering
papers and forms.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Greg Young wrote:
> Yes, you need to have it registered and have the original before the
> inspection. Yes, you need a bill of sale. They changed the "rules"
> for kit planes some time ago to require it. You'll also need the
> affidavit. Don't fight it unless you've got a lot of time to kill as
> you could risk getting your registration delayed. Call Van's and ask
> for the BOS - they are set up to do it quickly and will probably have
> it in your hands in a couple days. If you plan to use a DAR he should
> be able to provide you with a packet of info on all the steps you'll
> need to take before he shows up (there are others such as the program
> letter.) The FAA also has an info packet on the process. I wouldn't
> plan on being able to expedite the process. Just get all the paperwork
> right the first time and get it subemitted as quickly as possible and
> hope for the best. Good luck.
>
> Greg
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Tue 5/31/2005 5:28 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject:
> RV10-List: Registration of Home-Built Aircraft
>
>
>
> I have been learning a lot about this airplane registration/sign-off
> process in the last 2 days. I had no idea that you had to register
> the airplane before you could get the sign-off. Is it true that you
> actually have to have your certificate of registration back from the
> FAA before you can get signed off to fly? I was told that I have to
> get a bill-of-sale from Van's to accompany my registration. From my
> research, no bill of sale is required if I built more than 50% of the
> plane myself, which I did. Yes, it very highly resembles a plane that
> over 400 other people are working on, but I built it and I can call it
> an RV-10 or a JS-1 if I want, right? I am the builder so I don't need
> a bill-of-sale? Some places it seems to say that I need a copy of my
> builder's log and pictures or drawings of the 3 different views of the
> plane. Other places it just says, "fill out the affidavit to be named
> as the builder, fill out a certificate of registration, attach a
> letter to request a special N-number, wait 3-6 weeks for a
> certificate."
>
>
>
> Can anybody help me understand the steps and what all has to be sent
> in? Can I not operate with the pink (or yellow, or whatever copy I
> keep) copy of the certificate of registration for my sign-off?
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
John,
I initially put electric rudder trim in my -6 and found that the only
time I used it was to trim for full cruise speed, then never needed it.
So I removed it and use the tab as an 'adjustable fixed' tab.
Attached is a picture of it, if you feel compelled to do one.
I installed it in the rudder stab spar in a manner similar to the old
electric aileron trim that Van's used to sell.
The tray slides in thru a gusseted slot in the rudder stab and screws in
place. There is a 1/4 scale model aircraft pushrod that fits from the
end of the 'bellcrank' to the actual tab at the trailing edge of the
rudder.
It looked really cool and worked great, but was useless and extra weight
in my -6 since I seldom travel xcountry nor do extended climbs.
I haven't missed it since it's removal.
Another, possibly better solution, would be an adjustable trim spring
attached to the rudder pedals, to pre-load the right rudder needed in
climb. This could be done similar to the Van's manual aileron trim
spring, very inexpensively.
Dw
N790DW 858hrs
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500
ft. and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of
paperwork and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb
rate that high. I think that the climb outs will be so short and the
amount of rudder pressure is so light that it won't be worth the
addition. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
-->
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I
was wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought
that it needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday
it occurred to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old
after a while, and I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can
center the ball once climb is established and you're not so busy. Not
sure if anyone would notice this in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm
sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rear Headset Jacks |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Right on top of the rear panels Bob. Same place that I put them. They
are out of the way and won't get kicked. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Headset Jacks
Here's a question for those that are almost finished - where are you
locating the rear seat headset jacks? Has anybody noticed where Van's
has them in the factory planes?
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
Wondering....
I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit)
or the ES Airflow Filter.
Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
anyone know the answer?
In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
* Fuel System
* Brake Pedals and system
* Rudder controls
* Control system
....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
might not be with the kit.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Fuel pump is from Van's. You can't get it cheaper. The transducer is
from your engine monitor company. I also bought about 2 ft of 1 1/2 scat
tube and reduced the tube going to the rear heater. It is impossible to
squeeze down the 2" stuff to fit on top of the fuel selector and I could
squeeze the 1 1/2" stuff. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
Wondering....
I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit, and either is
the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit) or the ES
Airflow Filter.
Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
anyone know the answer?
In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything else
that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
* Fuel System
* Brake Pedals and system
* Rudder controls
* Control system
....anything that I would probably want at that point that just might
not be with the kit.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Misc Fuel system parts |
Great tip, Randy. I'll order the SCAT and have it ready in case I
can't get the 2" to fit either. Also, glad to hear you're up to
18 successful hours! Can't wait to hear it's flown off. Is your
wife going to be your first passenger?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> Fuel pump is from Van's. You can't get it cheaper. The transducer is
> from your engine monitor company. I also bought about 2 ft of 1 1/2 scat
> tube and reduced the tube going to the rear heater. It is impossible to
> squeeze down the 2" stuff to fit on top of the fuel selector and I could
> squeeze the 1 1/2" stuff. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 5:51 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
>
> Wondering....
> I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit, and either is
> the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit) or the ES
> Airflow Filter.
>
> Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
> bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
> is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
> anyone know the answer?
>
> In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
> productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything else
> that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
> * Fuel System
> * Brake Pedals and system
> * Rudder controls
> * Control system
> ....anything that I would probably want at that point that just might
> not be with the kit.
>
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do you do
if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow in the bottom
12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings in the plans has
me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that bad. Before I go on setting
the rest of the rivets (I only have about half of them half way set) I would
like to know what to do to correct it. Thanks for your thoughts.
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge |
I didn't have a bowing problem myself...used proseal, and the long piece
of angle iron to cleco it to method. But, if you were bowing, I'd
think that a possible solution is to put every other rivet in from the
opposite side. That would even out the forces I'd think. No guarantee,
but that's what I did on my rudder.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Shawn Moon wrote:
> For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do
> you do if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow
> in the bottom 12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings
> in the plans has me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that
> bad. Before I go on setting the rest of the rivets (I only have about
> half of them half way set) I would like to know what to do to correct
> it. Thanks for your thoughts.
>
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
> <http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the bucking
bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin. I'll try
to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can offer any ideas
and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or suggestions or
do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hi Bill,
Welcome to the club ;-)
This happened to me on about the sixth rivet I set on the VS. I have a few
more birthmarks on various skins (mostly due to trying to buck/shoot solo,
and a really crap extended back rivet set that should be outlawed . . . ).
If the ding does not include the rib behind the skin, you can fashion a
dolly from hardwood, place it on the inside of the skin and use a plastic
faced mallet to tap the dent back in. I have not had much success reducing
these if the ding presses the rib into the skin. I am just not game enough
to whack the skin as hard as it appears necessary to push both skin and rib
back into shape.
I too would be very interested in any tricks that other listers may have for
these 'birthmarks'.
cheers,
Ron
#187 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin.
I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can
offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or
suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
This is off topic - but I am impressed with the quality of the pictures
given their small size except, for no 2 which apparently suffered a minor
mishap. What camera did you use or better still - did you process the photos
in any way to get them so small yet so crisp and clear? I use the 1.8 mega
pixel photo capability on my camcorder - pictures weigh 500+ kb and do not
exhibit the crispness of yours.
Thanks,
Michle
RV8 - Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:30 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> Tim, you and I seem to be at the same sport. I ended up doing
> the same thing for the nutplates on the baggage door jam. I drilled the
> rivet hole to come out the back and then enlarged this hole to 1/4" and
> back riveted it using a hammer and punch on a backing plate.
> As for the most forward rivet on the rear side seat pans, I also
> left this rivet out. I called Van's about it and explain to Bruce there
> is no way to get this rivet because you can't get to either side of the
> rivet with the gun. He went on to say you can use a pop rivet at a 15
> degree angle, but I said it would be more like a 70 degree angle and it
> wouldn't work. If you look at the drawing that show the rear floor pan,
> you will notice they don't even show this hole exists, so I wonder if
> this was added later not thinking about how it would be set.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250 Floor Pans all rivet on.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 11:16 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
>
> I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> fuse, by the way.
>
> #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
>
>
> The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
> inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com |
I would apply some pressure from the inside using a rounded block of
wood (that matches the contour of the skin, then use the rivet gun on
about 20lbs of pressure with a mushroom set on the outside. I would go
easy on the trigger. I've used this method to take the bend out of
ribs that got caught by the scotchbrite wheel and have a flange bent out
of shape. For those, it works like a champ and seems like it would be
fine on a skin also as long as you apply plenty of pressure to the
inside and don't over "pound" it.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Riveting Elevator(s)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.
com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS
skin. I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if
you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any
thoughts or suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one
out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com> |
I just ordered these last week from Van's. You don't need the kit, just
the the pump and the filter separately. I am going to buy my Flo-Scan
with the Dynon EMS. I also bought a push pull cable for my parking
brake valve.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
Wondering....
I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit)
or the ES Airflow Filter.
Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
anyone know the answer?
In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
* Fuel System
* Brake Pedals and system
* Rudder controls
* Control system
....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
might not be with the kit.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Tim,
The Airflow pump and filter can just be ordered from Van's, everything
needed to mount them is in the fuselage kit. The Flo-Scan comes with
whatever engine monitor you decide to go with. I was able to
"pre-order" mine, similar to the AP servos. Also, turns out that
there's actually several different models of the fuel flow sensor and
they're somewhat interchangeable. I ordered mine from Advanced Flight
Systems and they actually provide a unit made by JPI. I think cost was
about $200 and it's deductible from the engine monitor price when that's
ordered.
Can't help much more, we're at almost exactly the same point but I
skipped ahead and did the brake and fuel system plumbing a few days ago.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
Wondering....
I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit,
and either is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit)
or the ES Airflow Filter.
Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
anyone know the answer?
In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything
else that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
* Fuel System
* Brake Pedals and system
* Rudder controls
* Control system
....anything that I would probably want at that point that just
might not be with the kit.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com> |
I have a Canon Digital Rebel (6.3 Megapixel). These were taken in the lowest resolution
which is 1536 x 1024. I then open them with Microsoft Photo Editor
and do a Save As and set the JPEG Quality Factor to 25 which creates the smaller
size file.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michle Delsol
Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
This is off topic - but I am impressed with the quality of the pictures
given their small size except, for no 2 which apparently suffered a minor
mishap. What camera did you use or better still - did you process the photos
in any way to get them so small yet so crisp and clear? I use the 1.8 mega
pixel photo capability on my camcorder - pictures weigh 500+ kb and do not
exhibit the crispness of yours.
Thanks,
Michle
RV8 - Fuselage
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 7:30 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
> Tim, you and I seem to be at the same sport. I ended up doing
> the same thing for the nutplates on the baggage door jam. I drilled the
> rivet hole to come out the back and then enlarged this hole to 1/4" and
> back riveted it using a hammer and punch on a backing plate.
> As for the most forward rivet on the rear side seat pans, I also
> left this rivet out. I called Van's about it and explain to Bruce there
> is no way to get this rivet because you can't get to either side of the
> rivet with the gun. He went on to say you can use a pop rivet at a 15
> degree angle, but I said it would be more like a 70 degree angle and it
> wouldn't work. If you look at the drawing that show the rear floor pan,
> you will notice they don't even show this hole exists, so I wonder if
> this was added later not thinking about how it would be set.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250 Floor Pans all rivet on.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 11:16 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: The impossible rivets - 1 won, 1 lost
>
>
> I found 2 "impossible" rivets, and the solution to one of them. QB
> fuse, by the way.
>
> #1 is on the baggage door latch bracket that goes on the fuselage.
> There are 2 nutplates to attach. 2 of those 4 rivets are not
> accessible by squeezer or bucking bar. I did, however,
> find that I have a very small flat squeezer set and I could drill
> a hole and enlarge with a unibit in the flange underneath the
> rivet, and get the squeezer through. I just don't know how else
> you'd do it. Here's a couple of photos.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260017.html
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505260016.html
>
>
> The other impossible rivets are on the very forward hole of the
> rear seat panels, on the sidewalls. There are holes that are completely
> inaccessible by rivet gun, or pop rivet tool. This photo shows the
> location, a couple inches NorthEast of the rivet set.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050530/RV200505250013.html
> Short of drilling a hole through my seat bracket, which is NOT
> worth it, I can't find a way to fill that hole. The ones on the
> other side of the floor panel by the tunnel could be popped in
> from the tunnel side I suppose, but you'd have an ugle rivet
> sticking into the seating area. For now I'm just going to leave
> them empty. If I got desperate, I'd GLUE in a rivet for looks...
> then everyone would think I figured out the secret. :)
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wires and Things for the Tail |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com> |
I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I hope
to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the right
baggage side panel.
Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
anything, please let me know.
1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
Solenoid.
2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
8. Static Line Tubing.
9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the
registration / inspection / certification process with any listed
forms and links you think people should have, I'll be happy to post
that on my page so as questions come up, we can point people there
and save answering it 400 more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wires and Things for the Tail |
Ray,
I can add a couple of possibilities to that list:
12. AHRS wires
13. Transponder Antenna Wire (possibly)
14. Baggage area lighting power
15. One I hope to some day add.....a vent and blower motor
for on-the-ground cabin airflow. (need power wires)
I'm also planning to run both a #2 power and #2 ground wire from the
tail to the firewall. I want to have a single-point ground on the
firewall for all items, and that run directly to the battery.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
> I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
> before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
> the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
> each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I hope
> to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the right
> baggage side panel.
> Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
> anything, please let me know.
>
> 1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
> Solenoid.
> 2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
> 3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
> 4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
> 5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
> 6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
> 7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
> 8. Static Line Tubing.
> 9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
> 10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
> 11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wires and Things for the Tail |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Ray,
A little more info and a couple comments:
- The TruTrak pitch servo calls for (2) #20 and (7) #22 wires.
- You may need an always hot battery bus wire (#20).
- I don't believe that the power to the strobe power supply needs to be
shielded. My Whelen unit just has unshielded wire for that connection.
The actual high voltage strobe lines are however shielded.
- I've got my MB antenna in a wingtip, but the transponder antenna is
near the battery mount ribs.
- Bob N on the AeroElectric list recommends running the battery ground
forward to a single point grounding block on the firewall. It connects
to a brass bolt that feeds through to the engine block ground strap.
FWIW, I decided to stick a couple 3/4" conduit runs behind the right
baggage wall as cheap and lightweight insurance.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: Wires and Things for the Tail
I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I hope
to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the right
baggage side panel.
Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
anything, please let me know.
1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
Solenoid.
2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
8. Static Line Tubing.
9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | Conduit material |
For those of you that have mentioned running conduit for wires....what material
are you using for the conduit? Are you drilling dedicated holes for the conduit
or are you using existing holes and just securing the conduit in place?
I'm not to this step yet but I know I'll have to do the same when I get there.
Thanks in advance,
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevator(s)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Misc Fuel system parts |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Yes she is and the first flight is going to be to Bend to see John and
his wife. He deserves it. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
Great tip, Randy. I'll order the SCAT and have it ready in case I can't
get the 2" to fit either. Also, glad to hear you're up to
18 successful hours! Can't wait to hear it's flown off. Is your wife
going to be your first passenger?
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> Fuel pump is from Van's. You can't get it cheaper. The transducer is
> from your engine monitor company. I also bought about 2 ft of 1 1/2
> scat tube and reduced the tube going to the rear heater. It is
> impossible to squeeze down the 2" stuff to fit on top of the fuel
selector and I could
> squeeze the 1 1/2" stuff. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 5:51 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Misc Fuel system parts
>
>
> Wondering....
> I see the ES Airflow Fuel Pump is not included in the kit, and either
> is the Flo-Scan fuel flow transducer (IF Flo-Scan Mount Kit) or the ES
> Airflow Filter.
>
> Are these items I should just get from Van's, or are they normally
> bought with something else? I'll have to verify that the Flo-Scan
> is what I'd need with the GRT EIS that ties in to the Chelton too...
> anyone know the answer?
>
> In addition, I'm going to attempt an uninterrupted string of
> productivity for a while, and would like a heads-up on anything else
> that's optional or might hold me up during the sections of
> * Fuel System
> * Brake Pedals and system
> * Rudder controls
> * Control system
> ....anything that I would probably want at that point that just might
> not be with the kit.
>
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
You can turn it over and put small shim under the ends so you are
pushing the bow down to the rivet plate on the table. Then lightly work
the rivets in that area. I had the same problem but it came out perfect
the a little pro-active riveting. Don't be afraid to rivet a little on
one side then flip it over on the other, each time only slightly driving
the rivet. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do
you do if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow
in the bottom 12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings
in the plans has me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that
bad. Before I go on setting the rest of the rivets (I only have about
half of them half way set) I would like to know what to do to correct
it. Thanks for your thoughts.
--Shawn
40366
________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
<http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wires and Things for the Tail |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com> |
Thanks for your replies. I have added the Hot Battery for stuff
like clocks etc and the extra #2 for single point ground.
As for Transponder antenna, I had mine in the tail of my RV-9A,
but that length of cable is not recommended because of the high loss of
the signal at 1090 Mhz. The Garmin install manual states "The maximum
coaxial cable attenuation at 1090Mhz must not exceed 1.5 dB. It states
the maximum length for RG400 is 8.8 feet. It is even less for RG58AU.
So I would recommend against mounting the Transponder antenna in the
tail. I was planning to mount mine in the tunnel just ahead of the fuel
vale. I will decide for sure once I have the brake and fuel lines in
place.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wires and Things for the Tail
Ray,
I can add a couple of possibilities to that list:
12. AHRS wires
13. Transponder Antenna Wire (possibly)
14. Baggage area lighting power
15. One I hope to some day add.....a vent and blower motor
for on-the-ground cabin airflow. (need power wires)
I'm also planning to run both a #2 power and #2 ground wire from the
tail to the firewall. I want to have a single-point ground on the
firewall for all items, and that run directly to the battery.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
> I'm starting to think about what needs to be routed to the tail
> before I close up the right baggage side wall. I've already closed up
> the baggage floor pans which have 3/4" conduit running under them up
> each side. I figure this will be used for the #2 Starter Cable. I
hope
> to leave the other one open for future and run the rest under the
right
> baggage side panel.
> Here is a list of what I can think of right now. If I've missed
> anything, please let me know.
>
> 1. #2 Wire from Master Solenoid to Firewall Mounted Starter
> Solenoid.
> 2. #18 Master Solenoid wire to engage Solenoid.
> 3. Shielded Power wire for Strobe Power Supply mounted in Tail.
> 4. Shielded Strobe wire for Left Wing.
> 5. Shielded Strobe wire for Right Wing.
> 6. Marker Beacon Antenna wire. Mounted between battery mount ribs.
> 7. Tail Nav Light power wire.
> 8. Static Line Tubing.
> 9. RJ-11 wire for Remote Panel of the ELT.
> 10. 5 - #22 or #24 wires for Elevator Trim Servo.
> 11. Elevator Autopilot wires.
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of
wood shaped like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it
out. The problem is that the alum is stretched now and you will use
some bondo or JB weld to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have
happen. Don't worry about it and move on. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS
skin. I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if
you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any
thoughts or suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one
out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I am sure Randy will jump in here (As the Builder/Owner/Pilot) but I
will offer what I heard Mike say (as the fly on the wall) during the DAR
inspection of N610RV. The rudder cable attachment hardware has the bolt
running from the centerline outboard, on each of the inner rudder
pedals. That places the castellated nuts and safety pins (outboard)
towards either a pilot or co-pilots footwear. Mike was concerned the
pin would snag the occupant's footwear, break and allow loss of pin and
eventual loss of safety. Reversing the bolt direction was unacceptable
as the clearance to the tunnel was too minimal.
He wanted that event of snagging eliminated with final approval. Randy
can illuminate how he solved the observation. There were several
acceptable techniques discussed. I have not looked closely at N410RV or
N220RV but will do so.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the
registration / inspection / certification process with any listed
forms and links you think people should have, I'll be happy to post
that on my page so as questions come up, we can point people there
and save answering it 400 more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I followed the plans exactly like Van's says. I also had a little bit
of bowing before all the rivets had been set. But as you start to
finish the rivets it will start to straighten back out. Be careful not
to over hit the rivets though. But if you do you can simply flip the
rudder over and start to hit it on the other side using the mushroom set
in the rivet gun and work it until it is perfectly straight. I was
really amazed at how straight the edges came out.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do
you do if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow
in the bottom 12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings
in the plans has me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that
bad. Before I go on setting the rest of the rivets (I only have about
half of them half way set) I would like to know what to do to correct
it. Thanks for your thoughts.
--Shawn
40366
________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
<http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
An alternate method for riveting the trailing edges.
I purchased a flat set and ground them to the proper angle of the trailing edge.
Then used the hand squeezer to set the rivets. Things to note:
You can't set the hand squeezer to an exact depth but you can get a good idea
of what the rivet is doing during the squeeze.
Also, the sets can rotate, so you might want to mark both sides so you can make
sure they are rotated in alignment before starting the squeeze.
I chose to alternate the finish rivet head from one side to side.
The results were straight edges and good looking rivets.
The skins are so thin that I was just afraid to take a rivet gun to them. You
need to get comfortable doing this because the ailerons and flaps have the same
trailing edge method of assembly. Those are thin skins and the TE material
is not very wide.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Trailing Edge |
hrm. Mine appears to bow about 1/64th in the middle if I lay it flat on
the table, and all the rivets are fully set and nicely flush. should I
bang on it a bit from the other side or is it more likely that I'll wind
up making it worse / overcorrecting ?
Thanks,
James
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I followed the plans exactly like Vans says. I also had a little bit
> of bowing before all the rivets had been set. But as you start to
> finish the rivets it will start to straighten back out. Be careful not
> to over hit the rivets though. But if you do you can simply flip the
> rudder over and start to hit it on the other side using the mushroom
> set in the rivet gun and work it until it is perfectly straight. I was
> really amazed at how straight the edges came out.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Shawn Moon
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 31, 2005 9:37 PM
> *To:* Matronics RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
>
> For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what
> do you do if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a
> bow in the bottom 12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated
> warnings in the plans has me spooked a little so I don't think it is
> all that bad. Before I go on setting the rest of the rivets (I only
> have about half of them half way set) I would like to know what to do
> to correct it. Thanks for your thoughts.
>
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
>
> Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
> <http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html>
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Trailing Edge |
Good to know that I am not just going crazy. I will try this when I get home tonight.
I think all of the "be carful" type of warnings in this section of the
plans just has me spooked. Thanks.
Scott Schmidt wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}.shape
{behavior:url(#default#VML);}st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui)
}
I followed the plans exactly like Vans says. I also had a little bit of bowing
before all the rivets had been set. But as you start to finish the rivets it
will start to straighten back out. Be careful not to over hit the rivets though.
But if you do you can simply flip the rudder over and start to hit it on
the other side using the mushroom set in the rivet gun and work it until it is
perfectly straight. I was really amazed at how straight the edges came out.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trailing Edge
For all those who used the proseal method for the trailing edge, what do you do
if you start to develop a slight bow? I started developing a bow in the bottom
12 inches of the rudder, but I think the repeated warnings in the plans has
me spooked a little so I don't think it is all that bad. Before I go on setting
the rest of the rivets (I only have about half of them half way set) I would
like to know what to do to correct it. Thanks for your thoughts.
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour
--Shawn
40366
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
Yes you catch you foot on the cotter pins and bend them strait. Just
put the castle nuts on the side that will keep your feet from hitting
them. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
I am sure Randy will jump in here (As the Builder/Owner/Pilot) but I
will offer what I heard Mike say (as the fly on the wall) during the DAR
inspection of N610RV. The rudder cable attachment hardware has the bolt
running from the centerline outboard, on each of the inner rudder
pedals. That places the castellated nuts and safety pins (outboard)
towards either a pilot or co-pilots footwear. Mike was concerned the
pin would snag the occupant's footwear, break and allow loss of pin and
eventual loss of safety. Reversing the bolt direction was unacceptable
as the clearance to the tunnel was too minimal.
He wanted that event of snagging eliminated with final approval. Randy
can illuminate how he solved the observation. There were several
acceptable techniques discussed. I have not looked closely at N410RV or
N220RV but will do so.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the registration
/ inspection / certification process with any listed forms and links you
think people should have, I'll be happy to post that on my page so as
questions come up, we can point people there and save answering it 400
more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bolt issue? |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I will try to get that done soon as several people have dropped into the
FAA hole of Doom. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bolt issue?
Randy,
I heard there was an inspection issue with some bolts in relation to the
rudder pedals and you corrected it. Can you elaborate? I'll be
starting that area shortly and may as well do it right the first time.
Also, if you have time to do a step-by-step write-up of the registration
/ inspection / certification process with any listed forms and links you
think people should have, I'll be happy to post that on my page so as
questions come up, we can point people there and save answering it 400
more times. :)
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888(at)peoplepc.com> |
Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180
Randy,
How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
Bruce Snyder
#40353 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500
ft. and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of
paperwork and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb
rate that high. I think that the climb outs will be so short and the
amount of rudder pressure is so light that it won't be worth the
addition. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
-->
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I
was wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought
that it needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday
it occurred to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old
after a while, and I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can
center the ball once climb is established and you're not so busy. Not
sure if anyone would notice this in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm
sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
The whip in the belly works great. Got it from Van's. The wingtip is
not working well but it is my problem not the antenna's problem (not
grounded). I will let you know when I make the adjustments and retry it.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce snyder
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
Randy,
How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
Bruce Snyder
#40353 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500
ft. and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of
paperwork and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb
rate that high. I think that the climb outs will be so short and the
amount of rudder pressure is so light that it won't be worth the
addition. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
-->
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I
was wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought
that it needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday
it occurred to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old
after a while, and I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can
center the ball once climb is established and you're not so busy. Not
sure if anyone would notice this in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm
sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Flaps on Take-Off |
Randy,
I notice on the video you appear to have partial flaps on take-off. Is that standard
procedure? Having not yet flown in a -10, I was wondering.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flaps on Take-Off |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Well as far as the factory is concerned it is normal procedure. I think
that the reasoning is that the less time on the ground the less wear and
tear on the you tires and equipment. I have not decided if flaps are
the best or not. I have been using 10 deg. to this point most of the
time. This plane really jumps off without flaps. As you can imagine with
10 deg you are airborne right away. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: RV10-List: Flaps on Take-Off
Randy,
I notice on the video you appear to have partial flaps on take-off. Is
that standard procedure? Having not yet flown in a -10, I was
wondering.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
This raises something I've wanted to ask but as usual felt it too obvious a
question and thus exposing the ignorance a little more than usual.
What is the penalty for hanging a whip under the belly? Randy has a whip
and a blade under there. In the quest for a clean looking and clean flying
airplane, are we giving up clear communications, etc. for, what, 1, 2 knots?
John Jessen
(stuck on the VS because I can't find my $%
&* dimple die set)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
The whip in the belly works great. Got it from Van's. The wingtip is not
working well but it is my problem not the antenna's problem (not grounded).
I will let you know when I make the adjustments and retry it.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce snyder
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
Randy,
How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
Bruce Snyder
#40353 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500 ft.
and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of paperwork
and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb rate that high.
I think that the climb outs will be so short and the amount of rudder
pressure is so light that it won't be worth the addition. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
-->
Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I was
wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought that it
needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday it occurred
to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old after a while, and
I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can center the ball once climb
is established and you're not so busy. Not sure if anyone would notice this
in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm sure Randy would know!
John Kirkland
#40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder |
Actually John, those words were in the posting twice....so here it
is a 3rd time for the archives. ;)
Tim
John Jessen wrote:
> Whoa. Reverse this " DNA" this very minute. Which I just
> did. Good information.
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of
> *quinn.talley(at)cox.net
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 01, 2005 3:42 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Construction Insurance for a Student Pilot/Builder
>
> I received my RV-10 QB wings and fuse a couple weeks ago. A lot of
> "what ifs" plagued my sleep since, so today I telephoned around to
> check the price and availability of builders' insurance. As a
> student pilot and a first-time RV builder, I am finding that there
> are some unique aspects to aviation insurance and builders'
> policies. I hope some of the folks who have been around a while can
> provide some pointers for a novice.
>
> I called three organizations -- AVEMCO, EAA and USAA Insurance (they
> cover my home) here is what I found:
>
> AVEMCO:
> I was surprised that AVEMCO is misinformed about the RV-10. Their
> representative insisted the -10 is a retractable gear aircraft,
> "because it says so in the notes". I've been told there are only 7
> or 8 aviation insurance companies, and only a few write builder
> insurance. Since there are well over 400 RV-10 kits under
> construction, it is surprising that one of the companies writing
> builders' policies is misinformed about the -10. It didn't matter
> because AVEMCO is not interested in covering my RV-10 -- regardless
> of the type of gear. AVEMCO doesn't insure student pilot /
> builders since they feel it is unlikely they will have the requisite
> hours (300?) when the aircraft is completed to qualify to be insured
> by AVEMCO. Just guessing, but the build time for an RV-10 is likely
> to be the order of 2 or 3 years for a dedicated weekend builder, and
> perhaps longer for most. I'm flying an about of 3 hours a week, and
> if I stay at half that pace for 2+ years I'll have between 150 and
> 200 -- time enough to get my IFR ticket and transition into the -10,
> but still not enough for AVEMCO.
>
> EAA:
> I contacted EAA Insurance and a very friendly agent provided me with
> a quote for $40K of builders risk coverage. A friend suggested
> I inquire about something called a component endorsement. Evidently,
> you must have receipts for your QB kit, or only 40% of the value of
> the policy is applied towards the airframe. Even if the receipts
> burned wit the house, Vans could produce supporting documentation,
> so not an issue. $40K policy, $400 per year and 1% of the value for
> additional coverage.
>
> USAA:
> I contacted USAA, a company I have been doing business with for over
> 25 years, to see if they would cover my QB kit under my homeowners
> policy. The answer was no. But, to my surprise, USAA is also an
> aviation insurance broker was able provided a quote from USAIG for a
> builders' policy in about 30 minutes. $460 for $40K of builders
> insurance.
>
> Before I pull the trigger, and sign up with either EAA Insurance or
> USAIG, does anyone have personal experience with either company, or
> both to share? Any suggestions for getting good value and good
> coverage on a builders policy? I appreciate any feedback you have
> to offer. quinn.talley(at)cox.net
> (please use "RV" in the subject)
>
> >
> Quinn Talley
> RV-10 40295
> Finishing the tailcone
> N101QT /reserved/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
From what I understand, the worst antennas would be something that is
round and in the airstream. If you have an antenna with an airfoil
shaped or boat type cross section to the wind, it should have less
drag. That being the case, the bent whips have an airfoil shaped
base, and the wire's pretty darn thin. I'd be guessing that if you
lost 2kts on a pair of bent whip coms, that would be more than I'd
even expect....but I don't know any supporting facts to prove that.
All I can say is that I'd much rather lose the 2kts than the com
signal. If the penalty were that much, we should be worried about
all sorts of other little things too such as the door handles, hinge
bolts, and stuff like that.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
John Jessen wrote:
>
> This raises something I've wanted to ask but as usual felt it too obvious a
> question and thus exposing the ignorance a little more than usual.
>
> What is the penalty for hanging a whip under the belly? Randy has a whip
> and a blade under there. In the quest for a clean looking and clean flying
> airplane, are we giving up clear communications, etc. for, what, 1, 2 knots?
>
>
> John Jessen
> (stuck on the VS because I can't find my $%
&* dimple die set)
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 3:57 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
>
> The whip in the belly works great. Got it from Van's. The wingtip is not
> working well but it is my problem not the antenna's problem (not grounded).
> I will let you know when I make the adjustments and retry it.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruce snyder
> Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 12:42 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
>
> Randy,
>
> How about a report on how your com radios are working out? If I recall
> correctly, you used the wingtip model antenna.
>
> Bruce Snyder
> #40353 Wings
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 6:06 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
>
> You need some rudder in climb out but on Monday I did a climb to 9500 ft.
> and leveled off. I was still climbing at 1000 ft a min. at 9500 ft.
> I have myself and an additional 175 lbs of shot bags, 25 lbs of paperwork
> and laptop, and full fuel. That was cool seeing that climb rate that high.
> I think that the climb outs will be so short and the amount of rudder
> pressure is so light that it won't be worth the addition. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 2:54 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Trim
>
> -->
>
> Hope Randy sees this now that there's a flying airplane in the group. I was
> wondering if anyone that has flown one of the RV-10's has thought that it
> needed a means of rudder trim? After flying 4.2 hrs XC yesterday it occurred
> to me that stepping on the ball during climbout gets old after a while, and
> I like the Cessna 182 rudder rim wheel so you can center the ball once climb
> is established and you're not so busy. Not sure if anyone would notice this
> in a quick demo flight, but by now I'm sure Randy would know!
>
> John Kirkland
> #40333
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________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
Thanks for all the info. I only have one problem. We kept going after the skin
was damaged. (This is the first good build session I've had for over a month
so I didn't want to quit). We riveted the front spar to the nose ribs so now
access to the inside of the skin is gone. It's not very many rivets to remove
so I can do that pretty easily, but, is it necessary or can the dent be fixed
later. I'm not trying to get around fixing it now if that's what needs to
be done, but if it can be done later in the finishing stages then I'll wait.
TIA
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 9:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of wood shaped
like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it out. The problem
is that the alum is stretched now and you will use some bondo or JB weld
to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have happen. Don't worry about it
and move on. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 10:49 PM
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the bucking
bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin. I'll try
to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can offer any ideas
and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or suggestions
or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
Might as well drill out the rivets and fix them now. If not when yhou get
to the finishing stage you will kick yourself in the hiney.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
Thanks for all the info. I only have one problem. We kept going after the
skin was damaged. (This is the first good build session I've had for over a
month so I didn't want to quit). We riveted the front spar to the nose ribs
so now access to the inside of the skin is gone. It's not very many rivets
to remove so I can do that pretty easily, but, is it necessary or can the
dent be fixed later. I'm not trying to get around fixing it now if that's
what needs to be done, but if it can be done later in the finishing stages
then I'll wait.
TIA
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of wood
shaped like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it out.
The problem is that the alum is stretched now and you will use some bondo or
JB weld to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have happen. Don't worry
about it and move on. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin.
I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can
offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or
suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Comparison |
Scott,
Quick question...did you take into account that the RV's usually post
their speeds in mph, while many others post in Kts? I'm just wondering
if you truly know that the below numbers are MPH, or are the digits
themselves the only part that you verified?
Tim
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> Good idea.
>
> OK here is what I have for stall speed:
>
> RV-10 63 mph
>
> 182 56 mph
>
> SR-20 62 mph
>
> SR-22 62 mph
>
>
>
> What do you think for fuel burn for each? They dont list these numbers?
>
> Fuel Burn
>
> RV-10
>
> 182
>
> SR-20
>
> SR-22
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Dawson-Townsend
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 3:53 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
>
>
> Scott:
>
>
>
> How about adding fuel burn and stall speeds to your charts?
>
>
>
> TDT
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Scott
> Schmidt
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2005 4:59 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Performance Comparison
>
> Check out this performance comparison I did with the RV-10, SR-20,
> SR-22, and 182.
> http://www.freedomflyers.com/Performance%20Comparison.ppt
>
> The RV-10 is a great all-around plane.
>
>
>
> I have updated my website and been working on it for a little
> while. The RV-10 has been so easy to build up to this point that I
> dont think we have needed much help. The manuals have been great.
> Anyway, now that I am getting to the finishing work I will start to
> document the work in more detail. www.freedomflyers.com
> <http://www.freedomflyers.com/>
>
>
>
> Scott Schmidt (#40111, FWF and Finishing Kit)
>
> Salt Lake City, UT
>
> Cell: 801-319-3094
>
> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Bill,
I agree with Bob. I dented my VS over 12 months ago and it still bugs me.
I will probably remove the skin and fix it - but it would have been simpler
before I zipped up the whole skin. Trying to fix your dent once the HS is
complete (eg rear spar attached) will be a right pain.
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
Might as well drill out the rivets and fix them now. If not when yhou get
to the finishing stage you will kick yourself in the hiney.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
Thanks for all the info. I only have one problem. We kept going after the
skin was damaged. (This is the first good build session I've had for over a
month so I didn't want to quit). We riveted the front spar to the nose ribs
so now access to the inside of the skin is gone. It's not very many rivets
to remove so I can do that pretty easily, but, is it necessary or can the
dent be fixed later. I'm not trying to get around fixing it now if that's
what needs to be done, but if it can be done later in the finishing stages
then I'll wait.
TIA
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
That's one. You will have more. You can get something like a piece of wood
shaped like the nose area. Use it as a backer and try to flatten it out.
The problem is that the alum is stretched now and you will use some bondo or
JB weld to flatten and fill it. This is normal to have happen. Don't worry
about it and move on. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an accident with the
bucking bar and accidentally put a dent in the leading edge of the HS skin.
I'll try to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact me if you can
offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or
suggestions or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
TIA
Bill Britton
Riveting HS
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
I would hesitate to drill out any more than just a
couple of rivets, especially a continuous row. You
just can't drill them out without enlarging/elongating
the holes. Also be careful using a rivet gun and a
bucking bar or backing block. This can thin the skin
in that area and cause a "blister" like deformation. I
would leave in the rivets and carefully tap the dent
inward with an auto body hammer. You will then have to
do some cosmetic filling after.
Steve #40212 wings
--- Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an
> accident with the bucking bar and accidentally put a
> dent in the leading edge of the HS skin. I'll try
> to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact
> me if you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you
> the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or suggestions
> or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
>
> TIA
> Bill Britton
> Riveting HS
>
__________________________________
Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy's Abros mail" <randy(at)abros.com> |
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that
worked on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap
workings than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap
position sensor that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg.
but I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was
explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0
flaps. You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out
lifting them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you
hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the
same time. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Are you talking about the Van's Flap Control System when you mention the "flap
position sensor"? I presume any of us without said system will have to eyeball
those positions . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
Yes you would have eyeball the position. The flap take 14 seconds from
start to finish in full travel. I am very glad that I went to the flap
control system. Sorry about calling it the wrong name. It made it
confusing. Randy
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Are you talking about the Van's Flap Control System when you mention the
"flap position sensor"? I presume any of us without said system will
have to eyeball those positions . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy's Abros
mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys
that worked on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the
flap workings than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have
the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3
deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was
explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which
is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during take-off and
climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and transition to
cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when
you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning
path at the same time. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the Flap positioning
system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the panel or the switch on
the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Would anyone with the Flap Positioning System like to scan in any instructions
or drawings that came with it as a PDF file for the rest of us to evaluate?
Thanks,
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Yes you would have eyeball the position. The flap take 14 seconds from start to
finish in full travel. I am very glad that I went to the flap control system.
Sorry about calling it the wrong name. It made it confusing. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Are you talking about the Van's Flap Control System when you mention the "flap
position sensor"? I presume any of us without said system will have to eyeball
those positions . . .
TDT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as the flap
come in. If you had it on the stick as well you would be going back and
forth between buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the Flap
positioning system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the panel
or the switch on the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com; rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop
guys that worked on the 10 development) with a much better explanation
of the flap workings than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you
have the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I
think is -3 deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some
drag as it was explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position
which is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during take-off
and climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and
transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move
when you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on this
learning path at the same time. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
I was wondering if I could have the stick switch wired into the Flap Positioning
System, so I could use the "one-touch" feature of the Flap Positioning System
from either the panel or the stick. i.e. hit the Flap switch once, then do
your trim, etc.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as the flap come in.
If you had it on the stick as well you would be going back and forth between
buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the Flap positioning
system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the panel or the switch on
the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros mail
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of the shop guys that worked
on the 10 development) with a much better explanation of the flap workings
than I had previously. Here is the skinny. If you have the flap position sensor
that Van's sells it has 4 positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but
I am not sure. This is a position to reduce some drag as it was explained to
me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first position which is 0 flaps.
You are suppose to use this position during take-off and climb out lifting
them back to reflex as you level off and transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the flaps move when you hit the
switch for the first notch. We are all on this learning path at the same time.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
You absolutely should be able to. The difficulty comes when you try to
have the panel, and both sticks wired. The Inifinity guys told me to put
a switch on the panel to select either the co-pilot or pilot. But there
must be an easier way to do this. I would really like to have options at
all three places.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
I was wondering if I could have the stick switch wired into the Flap
Positioning System, so I could use the "one-touch" feature of the Flap
Positioning System from either the panel or the stick. i.e. hit the
Flap switch once, then do your trim, etc.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 12:21 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as
the flap come in. If you had it on the stick as well you would be going
back and forth between buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:11 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the
Flap positioning system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the
panel or the switch on the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com; rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of
the shop guys that worked on the 10 development) with a much better
explanation of the flap workings than I had previously. Here is the
skinny. If you have the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4
positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX
POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to
reduce some drag as it was explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first
position which is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during
take-off and climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and
transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg
flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the
flaps move when you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on
this learning path at the same time. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
> over. Once the head of the rivet is broken off you can center punch the
> rest of the rivet out of the hold. This technique takes practice but you
Punching the rivet through once the head is drilled off is often not the
best solution. If the flange (i.e. rib, bulkhead, etc.) on the other side
is "flimsy" at all, it will bow out away from the skin...which is something
you can't really solve easily.
If, after breaking the head off, you give it a light tap with the punch and
it doesn't come out, it's probably best to use the drill. You can use a
3/32" or 1/8" bit. Just drill it straight and you won't have any problems.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Yea that should work.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
I was wondering if I could have the stick switch wired into the Flap
Positioning System, so I could use the "one-touch" feature of the Flap
Positioning System from either the panel or the stick. i.e. hit the
Flap switch once, then do your trim, etc.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 12:21 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
You could I suppose but you thumb is very busy re trimming as
the flap come in. If you had it on the stick as well you would be going
back and forth between buttons. Not very efficient. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:11 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
Randy or others:
Is it possible to also wire in a switch on the stick grip to the
Flap positioning system? i.e. so you can use either the switch on the
panel or the switch on the stick?
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:24 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com; rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Flap position.
=09
=09
I have received an off list response from Scott (one of
the shop guys that worked on the 10 development) with a much better
explanation of the flap workings than I had previously. Here is the
skinny. If you have the flap position sensor that Van's sells it has 4
positions.
The first position is full up and is the REFLEX
POSITION. I think is -3 deg. but I am not sure. This is a position to
reduce some drag as it was explained to me.
When you hit the flap switch the flap drop to the first
position which is 0 flaps. You are suppose to use this position during
take-off and climb out lifting them back to reflex as you level off and
transition to cruise.
The other 2 positions are 15 deg. flaps and 30 deg
flaps.
This makes a lot of since when you see how little the
flaps move when you hit the switch for the first notch. We are all on
this learning path at the same time. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap position. |
Anyone considering using the flap positioning system from Aircraft
Extras here: <http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus.htm>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
The recent posts regarding drilling out rivets has me wondering of the effects
when a hole gets enlarged. If this happens, won't the new rivet expand out further
to fill the hole and result in the equivalent of a larger diameter rivet.
You would lose some length in the process and would probably need to move up
to the next longer size rivet but the end result would be a rivet with a little
larger diameter which should have equal shear strength (or greater) than the
original. I guess you argue that the amount of rivet shop head extending out
from the hole would be less but isn't shear strength what is really holding
the plane together?
I'm fairly new to this so be kind on your responses :-)
Just trying to learn.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Closing Elevator(s)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
Ok, you're all in for a treat now. Bruce Breckenridge went
all out and worked up a fantastic video/audio tribute to
Randy's project and sent it to me. It's in VCD format,
and I reworked it into a smaller .wmv again as well.
I really suggest you download the VCD though if you have
the ambition, and burn it to CD to play in your DVD player.
For those not familiar with Video CD's, many (not all) DVD
players can play videos compressed in slightly lower quality
but writted to writeable CD's. Most good CD burning software
has the capability to make a VCD. Once burned you can
then watch it on TV, instead of a tiny box on your PC.
Those small boxes on a PC screen actually turn into great
TV pictures.
Here's a direct link to the VCD:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/videos/DeBauwMVCD.mpg
If you're going to watch it on a PC though, just go here
and get the .wmv.
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
From http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt ...
NAS1097AD3-3 RIVETS (LB) $27.31
NAS1097AD3-3.5 RIVETS (LB) $29.45
NAS1097AD3-4 RIVETS (LB) $23.25
NAS1097AD3-6 RIVETS (LB) $26.95
NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $22.71
NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $18.62
The NAS1097 rivet has a smaller manufactured head than AN426 rivets. There
are at least two common purposes...
1. If you enlarge a 3/32" hole, i.e. when you drill out a rivet or
something, just drill it out to #30. Then you can use an NAS1097AD4-x
rivet. That rivet has the same size head as an AN426AD3-x rivet, but the
shank is 1/8". You'll never know it's there from the outside...they don't
call 'em "OOPS RIVETS" for nothing.
2. When installing nutplates on thin (i.e. .032" or thinner) material, use
the NAS1097AD3-x rivets. Since they have a smaller head, you don't need to
countersink as deeply. If you were to use an AN426 rivet, you'd probably
have to c-sink right through the thin flange...that sucks. When you use an
NAS1097 rivet, you can literally just give the hole a few turns with your
deburring tool, and that will be "deep enough" for the rivet to sit flush.
This kicks butt for nutplates. Faster, easier, less material removed. Keep
in mind that nutplates rivets are NON-structural. They only serve to keep
the nutplate from rotating while you're turning the fastener.
Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy an 1/8 pound each of NAS1097AD3-3.5
rivets for nutplates, and NAS1097AD4-4 rivets for those "oops" situations.
You'll thank me later... ;-)
But in the meantime, practice drilling out those rivets and you'll never
need an oops rivet. I have TWO oops rivets on my RV-7, and the rest are
standard!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Forsythe" <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rivet Question
>
> The recent posts regarding drilling out rivets has me wondering of the
effects when a hole gets enlarged. If this happens, won't the new rivet
expand out further to fill the hole and result in the equivalent of a larger
diameter rivet. You would lose some length in the process and would
probably need to move up to the next longer size rivet but the end result
would be a rivet with a little larger diameter which should have equal shear
strength (or greater) than the original. I guess you argue that the amount
of rivet shop head extending out from the hole would be less but isn't shear
strength what is really holding the plane together?
>
> I'm fairly new to this so be kind on your responses :-)
>
> Just trying to learn.
>
> Kent Forsythe
> 40338
> Closing Elevator(s)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet Question |
Dan,
That's some great information. I've heard of the Oops rivets but didn't know the
specifics on them. Is there any structural difference though between a rivet
that is larger diameter from the start, and one that is squeezed to a larger
diameter assuming you can squeeze it straight so that the head is centered?
Just curious...
Kent
From http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt ...
NAS1097AD3-3 RIVETS (LB) $27.31
NAS1097AD3-3.5 RIVETS (LB) $29.45
NAS1097AD3-4 RIVETS (LB) $23.25
NAS1097AD3-6 RIVETS (LB) $26.95
NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $22.71
NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $18.62
The NAS1097 rivet has a smaller manufactured head than AN426 rivets. There are
at least two common purposes...
1. If you enlarge a 3/32" hole, i.e. when you drill out a rivet or something,
just drill it out to #30. Then you can use an NAS1097AD4-x rivet. That rivet
has the same size head as an AN426AD3-x rivet, but the shank is 1/8". You'll
never know it's there from the outside...they don't call 'em "OOPS RIVETS" for
nothing.
2. When installing nutplates on thin (i.e. .032" or thinner) material, use the
NAS1097AD3-x rivets. Since they have a smaller head, you don't need to countersink
as deeply. If you were to use an AN426 rivet, you'd probably have to c-sink
right through the thin flange...that sucks. When you use an
NAS1097 rivet, you can literally just give the hole a few turns with your deburring
tool, and that will be "deep enough" for the rivet to sit flush.
This kicks butt for nutplates. Faster, easier, less material removed. Keep in
mind that nutplates rivets are NON-structural. They only serve to keep the nutplate
from rotating while you're turning the fastener.
Anyway, do yourself a favor and buy an 1/8 pound each of NAS1097AD3-3.5 rivets
for nutplates, and NAS1097AD4-4 rivets for those "oops" situations.
You'll thank me later... ;-)
But in the meantime, practice drilling out those rivets and you'll never need an
oops rivet. I have TWO oops rivets on my RV-7, and the rest are standard!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
Dan, I agree. But once that head is broken off is much easier to drill
a hole straight through the rivet.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
> over. Once the head of the rivet is broken off you can center punch
the
> rest of the rivet out of the hold. This technique takes practice but
you
Punching the rivet through once the head is drilled off is often not the
best solution. If the flange (i.e. rib, bulkhead, etc.) on the other
side
is "flimsy" at all, it will bow out away from the skin...which is
something
you can't really solve easily.
If, after breaking the head off, you give it a light tap with the punch
and
it doesn't come out, it's probably best to use the drill. You can use a
3/32" or 1/8" bit. Just drill it straight and you won't have any
problems.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John R. Lewis" <john(at)aspzone.com> |
| Subject: | New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
That brought tears to my eyes. Wow.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet
Ok, you're all in for a treat now. Bruce Breckenridge went
all out and worked up a fantastic video/audio tribute to
Randy's project and sent it to me. It's in VCD format,
and I reworked it into a smaller .wmv again as well.
I really suggest you download the VCD though if you have
the ambition, and burn it to CD to play in your DVD player.
For those not familiar with Video CD's, many (not all) DVD
players can play videos compressed in slightly lower quality
but writted to writeable CD's. Most good CD burning software
has the capability to make a VCD. Once burned you can
then watch it on TV, instead of a tiny box on your PC.
Those small boxes on a PC screen actually turn into great
TV pictures.
Here's a direct link to the VCD:
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/videos/DeBauwMVCD.mpg
If you're going to watch it on a PC though, just go here
and get the .wmv.
http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
Same here.....almost like it watching a little boy get his
FAVORITE toy for Christmas. Wait....that IS what happend. ;)
Tim
John R. Lewis wrote:
>
> That brought tears to my eyes. Wow.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:01 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet
>
>
> Ok, you're all in for a treat now. Bruce Breckenridge went
> all out and worked up a fantastic video/audio tribute to
> Randy's project and sent it to me. It's in VCD format,
> and I reworked it into a smaller .wmv again as well.
> I really suggest you download the VCD though if you have
> the ambition, and burn it to CD to play in your DVD player.
> For those not familiar with Video CD's, many (not all) DVD
> players can play videos compressed in slightly lower quality
> but writted to writeable CD's. Most good CD burning software
> has the capability to make a VCD. Once burned you can
> then watch it on TV, instead of a tiny box on your PC.
> Those small boxes on a PC screen actually turn into great
> TV pictures.
>
> Here's a direct link to the VCD:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/videos/DeBauwMVCD.mpg
>
> If you're going to watch it on a PC though, just go here
> and get the .wmv.
> http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Documentation |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
U29tZWJvZHkgcmVxdWVzdGVkIHRoZSBkb2N1bWVudGF0aW9uIGZvciB0aGUgVmFuJ3MgZmxhcCBw
b3NpdGlvbmluZyBzeXN0ZW0gaW4gLnBkZi4gIFVuZm9ydHVuYXRlbHkgSSBoYXZlIGEgZmV3IGRv
bWVzdGljIElUIGlzc3VlcyB0aGF0IHByZXZlbnQgbWUgZnJvbSBkb2luZyB0aGUgY29udmVyc2lv
biBidXQgSSd2ZSBhdHRhY2hlZCAuanBnIGZpbGVzIG9mIHRoZSB0d28gcGFnZXMuICBKdXN0IGlu
IGNhc2UgdGhlIGxpc3Qgc3RyaXBzIHRoZSBhdHRhY2htZW50cyBJJ3ZlIGNjJ2QgVGltIGFuZCBt
YXliZSBoZSBjYW4gcG9zdCB0aGVtLg0KIA0KU29ycnkgYWJvdXQgdGhlIGZpbGUgc2l6ZXMgLSBJ
IHdhcyBjb25jZXJuZWQgdGhhdCBpZiBJIGNvbXByZXNzZWQgdGhlbSBmdXJ0aGVyIGl0IHdvdWxk
IGNvbXByb21pc2UgdGhlIHJlYWRhYmlsaXR5Lg0KIA0KQm9iICM0MDEwNQ0KIA0K
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dent in HS skin |
Thanks for all the help guys. After careful consideration and re-examining
the dent I've decided that it's not that bad. I'll leave it alone for now
and see what the paint shop has to recommend if and when I ever get that
far. For the meantime, back to the HS.
Thanks again,
Bill Britton
Riveting HS #40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dent in HS skin
>
> I would hesitate to drill out any more than just a
> couple of rivets, especially a continuous row. You
> just can't drill them out without enlarging/elongating
> the holes. Also be careful using a rivet gun and a
> bucking bar or backing block. This can thin the skin
> in that area and cause a "blister" like deformation. I
> would leave in the rivets and carefully tap the dent
> inward with an auto body hammer. You will then have to
> do some cosmetic filling after.
> Steve #40212 wings
> --- Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>
> > While riveting the HS nose ribs in tonight we had an
> > accident with the bucking bar and accidentally put a
> > dent in the leading edge of the HS skin. I'll try
> > to post a picture. If that doesn't happen contact
> > me if you can offer any ideas and I'll e-mail you
> > the picture. Meanwhile, any thoughts or suggestions
> > or do I just let the paint shop work this one out???
> >
> > TIA
> > Bill Britton
> > Riveting HS
> >
>
>
> __________________________________
> Stay in touch with email, IM, photo sharing and more. Check it out!
> http://discover.yahoo.com/stayintouch.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Laura Riley" <JIMANDLAURA(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Narrow Deck Engine |
Sam,
I have a Jeff Rose electronic ignition system on my IO-360 narrow deck
engine. I've flow 150 hours in the past year and a half with no
problems what so ever. He offers an excellent system in my opinion.
I'm hoping he will come out with a system for the 540's. My engine was
built by Bob Barrows (the Bear Hawk guy) out of Virginia. It's been
very reliable.
I also run premium auto fuel quite often without a hitch. The only
thing I've found with the auto fuel is the EGT doesn't run as hot and
I'm losing around 3-4 mph top speed. NO BIG DEAL, when I'm saving $20
per tank of gas! Bob recommends using 100LL every third tank to keep
the valves running smoothly.
My two cents,
Jim Riley
#40191 finishing wings
Does anyone have any experience with Gary Barber of Outlaw Aviation out
of Florida? No offense to Floridian's, but the last guy from Florida I
dealt with (McClow) was far from reputable!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Positioning System Documentation |
Thanks for sending this out Bob. I noticed that the .jpgs to the group
came out messed up, but I posted it on my site as well.
You can get it off my Tips link (in .jpg or .pdf) from:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips
or direct here in .pdf
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/flap_positioner/FlapPositionerInstall.pdf
(The .pdf will be easier to download and read)
I also posted some new items that might be of interest to some. I ended
up finishing my ordering of large items for the panel today, and quickly
wanted to lay out my panel because we're gonna be scrambling to get it
cut so it's ready for OSH. To see how the layout would fit, I created
the major items in True-size printable .jpg's available on the tips page
as well. I taped them up to the panel and tested for fit.
I found that with my current layout, the center rib will likely not be
an issue, but once again the overall height that Van's provides us with
the panel is a very limiting factor. I can make 3-1/8" backup
instruments fit, but 2-1/4" fit much better. I have some good photos
available on a link off from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel
I'm really starting to wish that they would have made that panel 1"
taller.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Somebody requested the documentation for the Van's flap positioning
> system in .pdf. Unfortunately I have a few domestic IT issues that
> prevent me from doing the conversion but I've attached .jpg files of
> the two pages. Just in case the list strips the attachments I've
> cc'd Tim and maybe he can post them.
>
> Sorry about the file sizes - I was concerned that if I compressed
> them further it would compromise the readability.
>
> Bob #40105
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
The video was so good I made the entire family watch it.
My wife's comment, "I like those seats. They look comfortable."
My reply was, "If thats what you want, no problem". I did not mention
that they were standard. :-X
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Positioning System Documentation |
Tim,
I would avoid to have just one line of switches down there, grouping them in
rows of 3-5 depending on the task masks an easy finding in a stressful
situation =(;O) which I know will never happen in an RV-10.
Werner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Documentation
>
> Thanks for sending this out Bob. I noticed that the .jpgs to the group
> came out messed up, but I posted it on my site as well.
>
> You can get it off my Tips link (in .jpg or .pdf) from:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips
>
> or direct here in .pdf
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/flap_positioner/FlapPositionerInstall.pdf
> (The .pdf will be easier to download and read)
>
> I also posted some new items that might be of interest to some. I ended
> up finishing my ordering of large items for the panel today, and quickly
> wanted to lay out my panel because we're gonna be scrambling to get it
> cut so it's ready for OSH. To see how the layout would fit, I created
> the major items in True-size printable .jpg's available on the tips page
> as well. I taped them up to the panel and tested for fit.
>
> I found that with my current layout, the center rib will likely not be
> an issue, but once again the overall height that Van's provides us with
> the panel is a very limiting factor. I can make 3-1/8" backup
> instruments fit, but 2-1/4" fit much better. I have some good photos
> available on a link off from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel
> I'm really starting to wish that they would have made that panel 1"
> taller.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> > Somebody requested the documentation for the Van's flap positioning
> > system in .pdf. Unfortunately I have a few domestic IT issues that
> > prevent me from doing the conversion but I've attached .jpg files of
> > the two pages. Just in case the list strips the attachments I've
> > cc'd Tim and maybe he can post them.
> >
> > Sorry about the file sizes - I was concerned that if I compressed
> > them further it would compromise the readability.
> >
> > Bob #40105
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap position. |
I am going with the flap positioning system from Aircraft
Extras.
I like the idea of being able to program in an automatice trim setting for each
flap position. It looks like a lot of trial and error getting it set up for
the first time but the extra cost for the system, over Van's, will make it worth
it if it performs as advertised.
<http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus.htm>
Rich at aircraft extras sent me the following info:
Hey Russell!
The FPS-Plus comes with the main control and an interface board that you
will need if you are going to add a flap or elev. trim position
indicator. You provide all wiring of course.
You will need to purchase seperately:
1.) The position indicator for the flaps. $30 thru Ray-Allen
2.) Flap actuator & motor assembly
3.) Elev. Trim servo assembly
(Ray Allen is a good one that has the position sensor inside the servo)
As far as the credit card, PayPal is the only way, . . unless you just
want to send me a check.
Hope that helped!
Rich Meske
I still had a question about the switch and the following is my question and Rich's
reply:
> Dear Rich:
>
> I found the following on the Ray Allen Web Site:
>
> When combined with a Ray Allen indicator, this sensor can be used to
> measure the position of wing flaps, cowl flaps or many other
> mechanisms. (NOTE: Ray Allen T2 and T3 servos have their own built in
> sensors.) Measuring only 2.7"(69 mm) x .5"(13 mm) x .8"(20 mm) , it's
> small enough to be installed almost anywhere. It is available in the
> following travel lengths: .5"(13 mm), .7"(18 mm) and 1.2"(30 mm).
>
> $30
>
> Is this what you are referring to as being needed? How do I tell which
> one I need .5" travel, .7" travel, or 1.2" travel?
>
> In addition, does the FPS-Plus come with a flap switch or do I also
> need to purchase some kind of flap switch? If so, what kind?
>
> The RV-10 comes with an Elevator Trim Servo, but off the top of my head
> I don't remember which one. I think it also has the flap actuator and
> motor assembly but I will check and make sure.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Russ Daves
There is a pic of this flap position sensor on my web. Did you see it?
It is on another page off of the FPS page. It is the Ray-Allen 1.2
version. It also shows how to hook it up. As far as the switch, yes, you
will have to get one. Everyone gets the Ray-Allen or another genetric
SPDT switch. The Ray-Allen, you can wire it up both ways shown in my
diagrams.
If you have more questions, I'll try to help!
Rich
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Documentation |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Tim,
I think just about everybody (except repeat offenders) is surprised at
the lack of panel height! I've messed around with a few layouts and
another inch or two would make a HUGE difference!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Documentation
Thanks for sending this out Bob. I noticed that the .jpgs to the group
came out messed up, but I posted it on my site as well.
You can get it off my Tips link (in .jpg or .pdf) from:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips
or direct here in .pdf
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/flap_positioner/FlapPositionerInstall.pdf
(The .pdf will be easier to download and read)
I also posted some new items that might be of interest to some. I ended
up finishing my ordering of large items for the panel today, and quickly
wanted to lay out my panel because we're gonna be scrambling to get it
cut so it's ready for OSH. To see how the layout would fit, I created
the major items in True-size printable .jpg's available on the tips page
as well. I taped them up to the panel and tested for fit.
I found that with my current layout, the center rib will likely not be
an issue, but once again the overall height that Van's provides us with
the panel is a very limiting factor. I can make 3-1/8" backup
instruments fit, but 2-1/4" fit much better. I have some good photos
available on a link off from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel
I'm really starting to wish that they would have made that panel 1"
taller.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Somebody requested the documentation for the Van's flap positioning
> system in .pdf. Unfortunately I have a few domestic IT issues that
> prevent me from doing the conversion but I've attached .jpg files of
> the two pages. Just in case the list strips the attachments I've
> cc'd Tim and maybe he can post them.
>
> Sorry about the file sizes - I was concerned that if I compressed
> them further it would compromise the readability.
>
> Bob #40105
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Randy's Flight video available - the best yet |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
You are smooth Larry. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New Randy's Flight video available - the best
yet
The video was so good I made the entire family watch it.
My wife's comment, "I like those seats. They look comfortable."
My reply was, "If thats what you want, no problem". I did not mention
that they were standard. :-X
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Narrow Deck Engine |
You mention you are hoping Jeff comes out with a system for the 540. Jeff's
ignition has been taken over by a new entity, and there's a new web site:
http://www.electroair.net They advertise a 6-cyl version.
There's also a relatively lesser known system that a friend of mine
produces: http://www.aerosparks.com Worth checking into.
And of course you've got the new E-Mag system: http://www.emagair.com No
6-cyl version currently that I know of, but it's only a matter of time.
I personally use the Lightspeed Plasma II system
(http://www.lightspeedengineering.com) on my RV-7 and would use it again in
a heartbeat.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: James Laura Riley
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Narrow Deck Engine
Sam,
I have a Jeff Rose electronic ignition system on my IO-360 narrow deck
engine. I've flow 150 hours in the past year and a half with no problems
what so ever. He offers an excellent system in my opinion. I'm hoping he
will come out with a system for the 540's. My engine was built by Bob
Barrows (the Bear Hawk guy) out of Virginia. It's been very reliable.
I also run premium auto fuel quite often without a hitch. The only thing I'
ve found with the auto fuel is the EGT doesn't run as hot and I'm losing
around 3-4 mph top speed. NO BIG DEAL, when I'm saving $20 per tank of gas!
Bob recommends using 100LL every third tank to keep the valves running
smoothly.
My two cents,
Jim Riley
#40191 finishing wings
Does anyone have any experience with Gary Barber of Outlaw Aviation out of
Florida? No offense to Floridian's, but the last guy from Florida I dealt
with (McClow) was far from reputable!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin WAAS upgrade |
Keep it coming guys, you're REALLY making me happy I got the GNS-480
yesterday. :) I love it when things go RIGHT for a change. The 430
and 530 are great radios, but I was afraid that this WAAS upgrade
was going to be vaporware in the short term...that's why I didn't
listen when people said "yeah, but the 430 will be upgradeable...".
I wonder how Garmin would be reacting right now if there were another
avionics manufacturer that was just about to release a new WAAS
equipped radio. In my opinion though, Garmin bought the CNX-80
and renamed it....right there that told me they didn't have nearly
the urgency that they used to. Also, for us building panels, have you
noticed how many people have GNS-480's in their plan? Lots of those,
but so far I haven't seen ANY 530's, and only a few 430's. The 530
is way overpriced, IMHO....but has a nice big screen....not that we
could fit it in our panel though. ;)
Tim
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
>
> I found this out yesterday from John at Stark Avionics. Apparently
> Garmin under estimated how much it was going to cost them to implement
> WAAS back when they announced the $1500 WAAS upgrade to the GNS 430 or
> GNS 530 units. If you purchase the WAAS upgrade before November 2005,
> Garmin will honor the $1500 price. After this Date the upgrade is
> likely to be much higher.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 9:04 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin WAAS upgrade
>
>
> Got this from AOPA today today:
>
> GARMIN DELAYS WAAS UPGRADE TO POPULAR AVIONICS
> Garmin this week announced delays in scheduled upgrades that will allow
> its GNS 430/530, GPS 400/500, and GNC 420 avionics units to take
> advantage of the Wide Area Augmentation System (WAAS). According to the
>
> company, a major software rewrite means the WAAS upgrade won't be
> available before the third quarter of 2006. "This is disappointing news
> to AOPA members who own Garmin equipment and are looking forward to the
> increased safety that WAAS will bring at an affordable price," said
> AOPA President Phil Boyer.
> "We are committed to promoting WAAS because it will add vertical
> guidance capabilities to 3,000 GPS approaches--a major safety
> enhancement at lower cost than ground-based navaids." WAAS is a system
> of satellites and ground stations that provide GPS signal corrections,
> giving pilots vertical guidance and up to five times better position
> accuracy than GPS alone. WAAS allows for the creation of GPS approaches
>
> with ILS-like minimums, some as low as 250 feet. See AOPA Online
> ( http://www.aopa.org/members/050602garmin.html ).
>
>
> Now I'm even more happy that I bought the GNS-480 Yesterday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin WAAS upgrade |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
What do you mean "go right for a change". You bought an RV10 man!
Everything after that are just bumps in the air. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin WAAS upgrade
Keep it coming guys, you're REALLY making me happy I got the GNS-480
yesterday. :) I love it when things go RIGHT for a change. The 430 and
530 are great radios, but I was afraid that this WAAS upgrade was going
to be vaporware in the short term...that's why I didn't listen when
people said "yeah, but the 430 will be upgradeable...".
I wonder how Garmin would be reacting right now if there were another
avionics manufacturer that was just about to release a new WAAS
equipped radio. In my opinion though, Garmin bought the CNX-80
and renamed it....right there that told me they didn't have nearly the
urgency that they used to. Also, for us building panels, have you
noticed how many people have GNS-480's in their plan? Lots of those,
but so far I haven't seen ANY 530's, and only a few 430's. The 530
is way overpriced, IMHO....but has a nice big screen....not that we
could fit it in our panel though. ;)
Tim
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> -->
>
> I found this out yesterday from John at Stark Avionics. Apparently
> Garmin under estimated how much it was going to cost them to implement
> WAAS back when they announced the $1500 WAAS upgrade to the GNS 430 or
> GNS 530 units. If you purchase the WAAS upgrade before November 2005,
> Garmin will honor the $1500 price. After this Date the upgrade is
> likely to be much higher.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 9:04 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin WAAS upgrade
>
>
> Got this from AOPA today today:
>
> GARMIN DELAYS WAAS UPGRADE TO POPULAR AVIONICS Garmin this week
> announced delays in scheduled upgrades that will allow its GNS
> 430/530, GPS 400/500, and GNC 420 avionics units to take advantage of
> the Wide Area Augmentation System (WAAS). According to the
>
> company, a major software rewrite means the WAAS upgrade won't be
> available before the third quarter of 2006. "This is disappointing
> news to AOPA members who own Garmin equipment and are looking forward
> to the increased safety that WAAS will bring at an affordable price,"
> said AOPA President Phil Boyer.
> "We are committed to promoting WAAS because it will add vertical
> guidance capabilities to 3,000 GPS approaches--a major safety
> enhancement at lower cost than ground-based navaids." WAAS is a system
> of satellites and ground stations that provide GPS signal corrections,
> giving pilots vertical guidance and up to five times better position
> accuracy than GPS alone. WAAS allows for the creation of GPS
> approaches
>
> with ILS-like minimums, some as low as 250 feet. See AOPA Online (
> http://www.aopa.org/members/050602garmin.html ).
>
>
> Now I'm even more happy that I bought the GNS-480 Yesterday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Garmin WAAS upgrade |
How many WAAS enabled approaches in your area? Overall? Coming? Doesn't
seem to be happening with any great speed.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin WAAS upgrade
Keep it coming guys, you're REALLY making me happy I got the GNS-480
yesterday. :) I love it when things go RIGHT for a change. The 430 and 530
are great radios, but I was afraid that this WAAS upgrade was going to be
vaporware in the short term...that's why I didn't listen when people said
"yeah, but the 430 will be upgradeable...".
I wonder how Garmin would be reacting right now if there were another
avionics manufacturer that was just about to release a new WAAS
equipped radio. In my opinion though, Garmin bought the CNX-80
and renamed it....right there that told me they didn't have nearly the
urgency that they used to. Also, for us building panels, have you noticed
how many people have GNS-480's in their plan? Lots of those,
but so far I haven't seen ANY 530's, and only a few 430's. The 530
is way overpriced, IMHO....but has a nice big screen....not that we could
fit it in our panel though. ;)
Tim
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote:
> -->
>
> I found this out yesterday from John at Stark Avionics. Apparently
> Garmin under estimated how much it was going to cost them to implement
> WAAS back when they announced the $1500 WAAS upgrade to the GNS 430 or
> GNS 530 units. If you purchase the WAAS upgrade before November 2005,
> Garmin will honor the $1500 price. After this Date the upgrade is
> likely to be much higher.
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Friday, June 03, 2005 9:04 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin WAAS upgrade
>
>
> Got this from AOPA today today:
>
> GARMIN DELAYS WAAS UPGRADE TO POPULAR AVIONICS Garmin this week
> announced delays in scheduled upgrades that will allow its GNS
> 430/530, GPS 400/500, and GNC 420 avionics units to take advantage of
> the Wide Area Augmentation System (WAAS). According to the
>
> company, a major software rewrite means the WAAS upgrade won't be
> available before the third quarter of 2006. "This is disappointing
> news to AOPA members who own Garmin equipment and are looking forward
> to the increased safety that WAAS will bring at an affordable price,"
> said AOPA President Phil Boyer.
> "We are committed to promoting WAAS because it will add vertical
> guidance capabilities to 3,000 GPS approaches--a major safety
> enhancement at lower cost than ground-based navaids." WAAS is a system
> of satellites and ground stations that provide GPS signal corrections,
> giving pilots vertical guidance and up to five times better position
> accuracy than GPS alone. WAAS allows for the creation of GPS
> approaches
>
> with ILS-like minimums, some as low as 250 feet. See AOPA Online (
> http://www.aopa.org/members/050602garmin.html ).
>
>
> Now I'm even more happy that I bought the GNS-480 Yesterday!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Back To Building |
Finally back to building. Wing Kit (slowbuild) finally showed up
yesterday after a one month delay.
It's good to be back in the action. Was going a little stir crazy with
nothing more to do on the emp kit.
One question out of curiosity. Why the spar extensions? Are they using
the same spars as the -9 or something and just needed to extend them 6
inches?
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Back To Building |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Apparently this was so they could deal with standard length aluminum
stock for the spar - this question was asked at the OSH forum last year.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Back To Building
Finally back to building. Wing Kit (slowbuild) finally showed up
yesterday after a one month delay.
It's good to be back in the action. Was going a little stir crazy with
nothing more to do on the emp kit.
One question out of curiosity. Why the spar extensions? Are they using
the same spars as the -9 or something and just needed to extend them 6
inches?
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back To Building |
Sean,
Measure the spar length, exactly 12'0". I wondered the
same thing till I got out my tape!
Steve 40212 Wings
--- Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>
> Finally back to building. Wing Kit (slowbuild)
> finally showed up
> yesterday after a one month delay.
>
> It's good to be back in the action. Was going a
> little stir crazy with
> nothing more to do on the emp kit.
>
> One question out of curiosity. Why the spar
> extensions? Are they using
> the same spars as the -9 or something and just
> needed to extend them 6
> inches?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Group,
I'm working on the rudder, and stuck on how the stiffeners are positioned.
The plans say to put the aft end of the L stiffener over the R one (p 7-5).
However, when I line up the stiffener halves as per p 7-3 where I cut them
out, the pictures on 7-5 show them backward, i.e. The one labeled L on 7-5
is the one that p 7-3 had me label R.
Going strictly off of pictures (which I've always been warned against), I
should be using R over L, not L over R. Sounds like I'm tying a square
knot.
I don't see a revision for Section 7 on Van's site. Could the 350+ of you
who have completed rudders help me out on a Saturday when Van's is closed?
Rob Wright
#392 Rudder 3%
N524RX Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
Rob,
I had the same problem and stared forever at the pictures. I think the
initial picture of the parts is misleading and I couldn't figure out which
side I was looking at since they sort of unbend things in the picture for
clarity. I ended up focusing on the picture on page 7-5 and it worked
great. My problem was the initial picture talked me into labeling the parts
wrong.
Marcus
Assembling the tailcone, QB fuselage in the garage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Plans
Group,
I'm working on the rudder, and stuck on how the stiffeners are positioned.
The plans say to put the aft end of the L stiffener over the R one (p 7-5).
However, when I line up the stiffener halves as per p 7-3 where I cut them
out, the pictures on 7-5 show them backward, i.e. The one labeled L on 7-5
is the one that p 7-3 had me label R.
Going strictly off of pictures (which I've always been warned against), I
should be using R over L, not L over R. Sounds like I'm tying a square
knot.
I don't see a revision for Section 7 on Van's site. Could the 350+ of you
who have completed rudders help me out on a Saturday when Van's is closed?
Rob Wright
#392 Rudder 3%
N524RX Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Plans |
I think you're maybe confused by something minor that if you take all
all the parts and go back to page 7-3 and 7-5 you may figure out.
I cut mine exactly as pictured on 7/3, and labeled them as shown from
what I remember. Then assembled them on 7-5 exactly as pictured.
The only dfference between the letters (i.e. 1015D, E, F, G -R)
is the length, and right or left. Then, since one must overlap the
other, the holes on one skin are slightly shifted compared to the holes
on the other skin...and if you cleco them in place you'll see how they
will naturally want to lay in the proper overlap for the most part.
My guess is though that if you go back and compare the parts on page
7-3, you may find that you mis-labeled the stiffners.
Or, are you just finding this problem out AFTER the skins are dimpled?
I'm not sure of this, but I suppose it would then be possible that you
mis-dimpled your skins. Whatever you do, get these things laid out
and clecoed together before you do anything permanent like dimple.
I think you'll find though that the stiffners overlap just as in 7-5.
Just take a deep breath, and scratch your head while staring at it....
I have to do that from time to time too. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> Group,
>
>
>
> Im working on the rudder, and stuck on how the stiffeners are
> positioned. The plans say to put the aft end of the L stiffener over
> the R one (p 7-5). However, when I line up the stiffener halves as per
> p 7-3 where I cut them out, the pictures on 7-5 show them backward, i.e.
> The one labeled L on 7-5 is the one that p 7-3 had me label R.
>
>
>
> Going strictly off of pictures (which Ive always been warned against),
> I should be using R over L, not L over R. Sounds like Im tying a
> square knot.
>
>
>
> I dont see a revision for Section 7 on Vans site. Could the 350+ of
> you who have completed rudders help me out on a Saturday when Vans is
> closed?
>
>
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392 Rudder 3%
>
> N524RX Reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | first fabrication |
Well, I got to do my first 99% fabrication the other day (the other 1% was
because I had a form to use). I didn't have my C/S tool set up right for
the striker plates on the rudder, and went way too deep and off center on
one of the holes. I thought, "Great, I get to reorder my first part from
Van's. At least it's not a $100 part (or worse)." Then I let my brain
wander for a minute, as it likes to do, and I came up with using a piece of
the hole gauge plate that Van's included with my tail order.
I thought the plate might have been a thousandth or two thicker, but after
cutting out the new piece and deburring, having the edges cut down by
deburring is what made the old piece look slightly thinner.
I'm sending three pics, two of the bad piece and the one I made, with a
rivet dropped in to show what it should and shouldn't look like, and one of
both pieces on top of the source plate.
Enjoy!
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Marcus, thanks.
Tim, I'd really hate to have gotten that far in the plans (dimpling) and
then figure out I messed up the foundation! One step at a time, baby.
Rob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Plans
Rob,
I had the same problem and stared forever at the pictures. I think the
initial picture of the parts is misleading and I couldn't figure out which
side I was looking at since they sort of unbend things in the picture for
clarity. I ended up focusing on the picture on page 7-5 and it worked
great. My problem was the initial picture talked me into labeling the parts
wrong.
Marcus
Assembling the tailcone, QB fuselage in the garage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Plans
Group,
I'm working on the rudder, and stuck on how the stiffeners are positioned.
The plans say to put the aft end of the L stiffener over the R one (p 7-5).
However, when I line up the stiffener halves as per p 7-3 where I cut them
out, the pictures on 7-5 show them backward, i.e. The one labeled L on 7-5
is the one that p 7-3 had me label R.
Going strictly off of pictures (which I've always been warned against), I
should be using R over L, not L over R. Sounds like I'm tying a square
knot.
I don't see a revision for Section 7 on Van's site. Could the 350+ of you
who have completed rudders help me out on a Saturday when Van's is closed?
Rob Wright
#392 Rudder 3%
N524RX Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Plans |
Robert,
I have been there, done that... Here's what I figured out:
The part labels (left and right) are backwards on page 7-3 ONLY. All
other pages have the parts labeled correctly. All you have to do, is on
page 7-3 label the parts that say left as right and vice-versa. Doing
this everything worked out great and I now have a perfectly flat rudder
assembly.
-Jim 40384 (Just finished rudder yesterday)
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> Group,
>
> Im working on the rudder, and stuck on how the stiffeners are
> positioned. The plans say to put the aft end of the L stiffener over
> the R one (p 7-5). However, when I line up the stiffener halves as per
> p 7-3 where I cut them out, the pictures on 7-5 show them backward,
> i.e. The one labeled L on 7-5 is the one that p 7-3 had me label R.
>
> Going strictly off of pictures (which Ive always been warned
> against), I should be using R over L, not L over R. Sounds like Im
> tying a square knot.
>
> I dont see a revision for Section 7 on Vans site. Could the 350+ of
> you who have completed rudders help me out on a Saturday when Vans is
> closed?
>
> Rob Wright
>
> #392 Rudder 3%
>
> N524RX Reserved
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Elev trim cables |
Did anyone have trouble with the adjustment of the Elev trim cables once they were
hooked up and running electrically. I was at the airport this morning trying
to help another 10 builder figure out why one trim tab stops traveling while
the other continues when running the trim motor. We are pretty sure the bellcrank
and other attachments are in the proper orientaion. It seems to me that
maybe it is a cable adjustment issue but I was wondering if anyone else has had
this problem. Thx, Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elev trim cables |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
Mark,
My understanding is they are designed to work that way.
Bobby Hughes
40116
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Subject: RV10-List: Elev trim cables
Did anyone have trouble with the adjustment of the Elev trim cables once
they were hooked up and running electrically. I was at the airport this
morning trying to help another 10 builder figure out why one trim tab
stops traveling while the other continues when running the trim motor.
We are pretty sure the bellcrank and other attachments are in the proper
orientaion. It seems to me that maybe it is a cable adjustment issue but
I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Thx, Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elev trim cables |
Mark,
Yes I had the same wonderment! Looking at the triangle
shaped cog I figured they were designed for
asymmetrical throw. I visited Van's during the trim
adjustment process and had Ken run the trim up and
down on 410RV so I could see how it worked. Basically
you want them to both hit neutral at the same time.
The left tab (if I remember correctly) only travels
full deflected down to neutral, the right tab has full
deflection up and down. The right tab is the one you
want to measure for the correct deflection. The 2 seat
RV's only have one tab, since the RV-10 was nose heavy
they engineered the "extra" tab to give nose up
deflection only.
Steve #40212 Wings
--- Mark Chamberlain <10flyer(at)verizon.net> wrote:
> Did anyone have trouble with the adjustment of the
> Elev trim cables once they were hooked up and
> running electrically. I was at the airport this
> morning trying to help another 10 builder figure out
> why one trim tab stops traveling while the other
> continues when running the trim motor. We are pretty
> sure the bellcrank and other attachments are in the
> proper orientaion. It seems to me that maybe it is a
> cable adjustment issue but I was wondering if anyone
> else has had this problem. Thx, Mark (40016)> No
virus found in this outgoing message.
> Date: 6/4/2005
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Third RV-10 Flying |
Slow day. Everyone must be pounding rivets.
Saw this posted at Vans Air Force:
RV10 N770BD (BigDog) completed first flight this morning at the
Caldwell, Idaho airport.
Builder/Pilot: Ed McGinty
All went well.
Saturday June 4th.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elev trim cables |
Because of the way the trim cables attach to the trim mechanism, one will stop
moving before the other.
If my memory serves correct, at one point in the design, Vans was trying to have
an automatic elevator trim adjust when the flaps were moved. One side of the
trim was connected to the flap mechanism, and the other was pilot adjustable.
I think they backed away from this and just connected both elevator trims to
the same motor.
Build it per the plans and fly it.
I do however think you should check the clearance of the bolt as it travels down through the mounting plate. I ran my mechanism and the clearance was about one bolt thread. I shortened the bolt slightly, but someone else suggested making the clearance hole bigger (I had already shortened the bolt). Pictures are on my web page (Fuselage Trim @ www.infra-read.com)
If you want to do this, you can move the servo motor using a rectangular 9 volt
battery. There are five wires coming from the servo, Three of them are striped
with a color, two are not. The two wires not stripped can be touched to the
9v battery and the motor will move to it's limit. Reverse the wires to reverse
the travel. Since this is not in a convienient location after installation,
you might check this just after building it.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I have been thinking a lot about the possibilities of using software like
Anywhere Map and their Anywhere WX options on a laptop or panel-mounted LCD
screen to have good, high-detail moving map and weather in the cockpit. It
looks like this can be done for about $3,000 plus a monthly subscription to
the XM Weather plan. Is anybody else planning on doing this? Does anybody
else have experience with this or any other similar system? I would rather
pay $3,000 and have the flexibility that this would offer than pay
$5,000-6,000 for the upgrade for my Garmin 430. It would also allow me to
take the system with me in other planes if there was room. Also, a 12"
screen dedicated to map and weather would be very nice to look at, and it
could play DVD's or could be used for catching up on the RV-10 list e-mails
while the TruTrak is in control.
Any thoughts, warnings, encouragement, etc is welcome!
Does anybody know the serial number of the 3rd -10 flying? This definitely
seems like it is going to be the year of the -10.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
McGinty was from Idaho with #40004. Doug should be out there about now
with his #40009.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Anywhere MAP/WX
I have been thinking a lot about the possibilities of using software
like Anywhere Map and their Anywhere WX options on a laptop or
panel-mounted LCD screen to have good, high-detail moving map and
weather in the cockpit. It looks like this can be done for about $3,000
plus a monthly subscription to the XM Weather plan. Is anybody else
planning on doing this? Does anybody else have experience with this or
any other similar system? I would rather pay $3,000 and have the
flexibility that this would offer than pay $5,000-6,000 for the upgrade
for my Garmin 430. It would also allow me to take the system with me in
other planes if there was room. Also, a 12" screen dedicated to map and
weather would be very nice to look at, and it could play DVD's or could
be used for catching up on the RV-10 list e-mails while the TruTrak is
in control.
Any thoughts, warnings, encouragement, etc is welcome!
Does anybody know the serial number of the 3rd -10 flying? This
definitely seems like it is going to be the year of the -10.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark" <2eyedocs(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
Jesse,
I think this is a great idea! I have Airgator's Nav Air moving map w/ XM now,
and I like it's functionality, but I would like a panel mount weather system.
Do you have any ideas about which LCD screen would work as a panel mount, and
how you would go about mounting the LCD? I was also wondering how I was going
to watch those inflight movies!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
GRT is adding WX Weather to their system as an option for $1500.00. Should be
available late this year.
Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "stevenflys1(at)juno.com" <stevenflys1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
I have owned Anywhere WX for two years. I have the sat phone, not XM. I would
classify this system as excellent. The weather updates are quick and easy to
interpret. They offer a lot of functionality for a small price. I have flown
coast-to-coast with this system in my Grumman Tiger and it was very handy.
Anywhere is continuously improving their software and the updates are included
in your subscription price. Their new Raven system looks like a winner to me.
Large screen and fast processor. I am not affiliated with them in any way.
I'm just a happy customer.
Steven Morris
Ordering my kit at Oshkosh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back To Building |
Sean,
I heard two reasons, one: The spar material only comes in that length, and
two: The sheet metal break can only handle material that length...
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Back To Building
>
> Finally back to building. Wing Kit (slowbuild) finally showed up
> yesterday after a one month delay.
>
> It's good to be back in the action. Was going a little stir crazy with
> nothing more to do on the emp kit.
>
> One question out of curiosity. Why the spar extensions? Are they using
> the same spars as the -9 or something and just needed to extend them 6
> inches?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Bill McCoy <hoverlover9797(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
I have Anywhere WX XM for my PDA. I works great! I have there XP version for my
laptop, but my PA-28 180 is way to cramped to enjoy it. I like the resolution
and graphics better on the XP version w/laptop. I'm on the waiting list for
the Raven.
Mark #40167 Elevators.
"stevenflys1(at)juno.com" wrote:
I have owned Anywhere WX for two years. I have the sat phone, not XM. I would classify
this system as excellent. The weather updates are quick and easy to interpret.
They offer a lot of functionality for a small price. I have flown coast-to-coast
with this system in my Grumman Tiger and it was very handy. Anywhere
is continuously improving their software and the updates are included in your
subscription price. Their new Raven system looks like a winner to me. Large
screen and fast processor. I am not affiliated with them in any way. I'm just
a happy customer.
Steven Morris
Ordering my kit at Oshkosh
---------------------------------
Find restaurants, movies, travel & more fun for the weekend. Check it out!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Enclosure Test... |
Testing the RV-10 List filters against some bitmaps. View or ignore, your
chioce...
Matt Dralle
List Admin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets |
I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going through
the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
for either option?
Thanks,
Marcus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)mail.ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Beating Engine Mount into Submission |
products.
Is the engine mount similar to the gear mounts where I can expect to beat it into
submission?
There are six 3/16 holes on the firewall - the 4 corners and the bottom center
two. So far I have final-drilled the top right corner hole (looking at the firewall
from the front of the plane) and getting ready to match-drill the rest.
Aligning the mount as best as I can and looking into each of the remaining holes
clockwise starting with the bottom right corner, that one lines up fairly
well. The 3/16" firewall holes of the two center ones, bottom left corner, and
top left corner are respectively at 7, 8, 9, and 10 o'clock of the engine mount
holes. All sit inside of the engine mount holes except for the bottom center
two holes.
Looking at the engine mount I can only see the top left corner hole of the engine
mount giving.
How much have others had to beat the engine mount into submission?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets |
Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
instructions. My advice is this:
Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
his spar.
It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
things done, it'll start to flow again.
You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
.311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
them there for drilling and fitting.
As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
with a little help if needed.
It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
this summer.
I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
photos of how I got started.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>
> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going through
> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
> for either option?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
Tim,
Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You do bring
up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel pump are
you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted engines. I
am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have the
new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
Thanks again,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
instructions. My advice is this:
Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
his spar.
It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
things done, it'll start to flow again.
You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
.311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
them there for drilling and fitting.
As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
with a little help if needed.
It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
this summer.
I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
photos of how I got started.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>
> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
through
> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
> for either option?
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Beating Engine Mount into Submission |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Ahn, I didn't have to do much but run a tapered drift punch into the holes to help
line them up. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Beating Engine Mount into Submission
Is the engine mount similar to the gear mounts where I can expect to beat it into
submission?
There are six 3/16 holes on the firewall - the 4 corners and the bottom center
two. So far I have final-drilled the top right corner hole (looking at the firewall
from the front of the plane) and getting ready to match-drill the rest.
Aligning the mount as best as I can and looking into each of the remaining holes
clockwise starting with the bottom right corner, that one lines up fairly
well. The 3/16" firewall holes of the two center ones, bottom left corner, and
top left corner are respectively at 7, 8, 9, and 10 o'clock of the engine mount
holes. All sit inside of the engine mount holes except for the bottom center
two holes.
Looking at the engine mount I can only see the top left corner hole of the engine
mount giving.
How much have others had to beat the engine mount into submission?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Laura Riley" <JIMANDLAURA(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anywhere MAP/WX |
Jesse,
I have the Any Where Map system in my RV-6. It gives me a color moving
map on a Cassiopeia E-125. The software is nice; the symbology is good;
and it has some nice decluttering features. However, it has one major
flaw, the battery! When the battery goes, so does your software! Many
times in the taxi out to the runway, I've gone to power it up only to
find the main battery had died, and the backup (watch style) battery was
dead and my software was gone! The Cassiopeia would turn on because of
the planes 12V power. However, the system was worthless without the
SOFTWARE.
I know Control Vision is using many different PDA's these days, but they
are all susceptible to this. The PDA wasn't designed to run for hours
on end while being plugged in your aircrafts 12V power supply. They are
meant to be charged over night and run off of the battery until the
battery is close to being dead. This keeps the battery in good shape.
If you constantly run the PDA off of the aircrafts 12V, the battery
develops a memory, which shortens its life. After that, it constantly
drains your back-up battery, leading to dumped software.
Maybe it's different with the laptop computers, I don't know. But, my
money for the -10 is going into a dedicated aircraft navigation system.
It's just too important to mess around with.
My two cents,
Jim Riley
#40191 Wings
I have been thinking a lot about the possibilities of using software
like
Anywhere Map and their Anywhere WX options on a laptop or
panel-mounted LCD
screen to have good, high-detail moving map and weather in the
cockpit. It
looks like this can be done for about $3,000 plus a monthly
subscription to
the XM Weather plan. Is anybody else planning on doing this?
Does anybody
else have experience with this or any other similar system? I
would rather
pay $3,000 and have the flexibility that this would offer than pay
$5,000-6,000 for the upgrade for my Garmin 430. It would also
allow me to
take the system with me in other planes if there was room. Also,
a 12"
screen dedicated to map and weather would be very nice to look at,
and it
could play DVD's or could be used for catching up on the RV-10
list e-mails
while the TruTrak is in control.
Any thoughts, warnings, encouragement, etc is welcome!
Does anybody know the serial number of the 3rd -10 flying? This
definitely
seems like it is going to be the year of the -10.
Jesse Saint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
James,
Thanks for the input. My plan would definitely be to have the system
powered off the aircraft battery. I will probably have a backup battery,
like with a laptop, but not definitely. That would be what the Lowrance
1000 is for, if my electrical system goes out. I am thinking a
panel-mounted screen with a laptop or mini-computer running it. Laptops are
not subject to the same problems as PDA's in that area. If the battery dies
you don't lose your hard drive. You may lose something that you were
working on when it died, but the storage is non-volatile memory. PDA's
require some power to keep the volatile memory powered so as not to lose it
(at least most of the do). Laptops use non-volatile memory for storage (a
hard drive).
One issue that I am wondering about is the time required to boot up. I
imagine you probably don't need the GPS while you are doing your taxi and
runup, which would, in most cases, give the computer time to boot. With
basic software running, I would expect the computer to take 30 seconds to 1
minute to be ready to use. I don't imagine this would be too much of a
problem, but I could be wrong.
Is anybody familiar with Anywhere AI? Does Anywhere Map XP have a way of
having both the moving map and the attitude indicator on the same screen?
Now we're starting to talk about more of a primary flight instrument instead
of just navigation. Having a 12" LCD right in front of the pilot's face
with the backups off to the side is starting to sound good. I know you
would still need the Nav/Com's and stuff like that , but the radio stack
would still be in the middle of the panel somewhere.
Thanks for all the input so far!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Laura Riley
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Anywhere MAP/WX
Jesse,
I have the Any Where Map system in my RV-6. It gives me a color moving map
on a Cassiopeia E-125. The software is nice; the symbology is good; and it
has some nice decluttering features. However, it has one major flaw, the
battery! When the battery goes, so does your software! Many times in the
taxi out to the runway, I've gone to power it up only to find the main
battery had died, and the backup (watch style) battery was dead and my
software was gone! The Cassiopeia would turn on because of the planes 12V
power. However, the system was worthless without the SOFTWARE.
I know Control Vision is using many different PDA's these days, but they are
all susceptible to this. The PDA wasn't designed to run for hours on end
while being plugged in your aircrafts 12V power supply. They are meant to
be charged over night and run off of the battery until the battery is close
to being dead. This keeps the battery in good shape. If you constantly run
the PDA off of the aircrafts 12V, the battery develops a memory, which
shortens its life. After that, it constantly drains your back-up battery,
leading to dumped software.
Maybe it's different with the laptop computers, I don't know. But, my money
for the -10 is going into a dedicated aircraft navigation system. It's just
too important to mess around with.
My two cents,
Jim Riley
#40191 Wings
I have been thinking a lot about the possibilities of using software like
Anywhere Map and their Anywhere WX options on a laptop or
panel-mounted LCD
screen to have good, high-detail moving map and weather in the
cockpit. It
looks like this can be done for about $3,000 plus a monthly
subscription to
the XM Weather plan. Is anybody else planning on doing this? Does
anybody
else have experience with this or any other similar system? I would
rather
pay $3,000 and have the flexibility that this would offer than pay
$5,000-6,000 for the upgrade for my Garmin 430. It would also allow
me to
take the system with me in other planes if there was room. Also, a
12"
screen dedicated to map and weather would be very nice to look at, and
it
could play DVD's or could be used for catching up on the RV-10 list
e-mails
while the TruTrak is in control.
Any thoughts, warnings, encouragement, etc is welcome!
Does anybody know the serial number of the 3rd -10 flying? This
definitely
seems like it is going to be the year of the -10.
Jesse Saint
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
Marcus,
I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
components might have to be changed. You don't use the
same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
and commit.
I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
Aerosport. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You do bring
> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel pump are
> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted engines. I
> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have the
> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>
> Thanks again,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>
>
> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
> instructions. My advice is this:
>
> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
> his spar.
>
> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>
> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>
> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>
> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>
> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
> them there for drilling and fitting.
>
> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
> with a little help if needed.
>
> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
> this summer.
>
> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
> photos of how I got started.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>>
>>I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
>>archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>
>>I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
>>separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
>>and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>
> through
>
>>the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
>>beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
>>for either option?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
For anyone thinking about using a PC up in the air, I can point you to a very good solution. My company is a VAR for a small touch screen unit that we use for plant floor applications. They are all solid state, no moving parts and run Windows XP Embedded. You can literally toss the thing around and no problem. Altitude is not a problem either. If you want to see more details go to http://www.xybernaut.com. The units are called an Atigo T. They're only about 3/4 of an inch thick and they have about an 8.5 inch LCD touch screen.
Not many people know about these and their worth looking into.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's now has the UMA IAS in stock with the RV-10 markings. |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com> |
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
I just got this back from Gus at Van's. I have been looking for
the Indicated Airspeed with the RV-10 marking instead of the True
Airspeed one that Van's has had for a while now.
We have them in stock now, they just aren't on the website yet
IF UMA-16-310-261 MPH $156
IF UMA-16-310-262D MPH/KTS $165
IF UMA-16-311-242 KTS $156
IF UMA-16-311-242D KTS/MPH $165
Ray Doerr
40250
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's now has the UMA IAS in stock with the RV-10 markings. |
Are these 3 1/4 inch or 2 1/4 inch? You'd think with all the EFISs these days,
Vans would start offering more 2 1/4 inch instruments for backups . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: Van's now has the UMA IAS in stock with the RV-10
markings.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
I just got this back from Gus at Van's. I have been looking for
the Indicated Airspeed with the RV-10 marking instead of the True
Airspeed one that Van's has had for a while now.
We have them in stock now, they just aren't on the website yet
IF UMA-16-310-261 MPH $156
IF UMA-16-310-262D MPH/KTS $165
IF UMA-16-311-242 KTS $156
IF UMA-16-311-242D KTS/MPH $165
Ray Doerr
40250
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Beating Engine Mount into Submission |
I didn't have to do any drilling at all. I just had a couple of guys
help my pull on it while I put the bolt through.
You would be amazed at how far you can actually bend the engine mount.
When I first put it on, I was off by the whole hole on one side and on
the bottom. But a little bit of brute force from a couple of strong
guys will pull it right in.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Beating Engine Mount into Submission
Ahn, I didn't have to do much but run a tapered drift punch into the
holes to help line them up. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Beating Engine Mount into Submission
Is the engine mount similar to the gear mounts where I can expect to
beat it into submission?
There are six 3/16 holes on the firewall - the 4 corners and the bottom
center two. So far I have final-drilled the top right corner hole
(looking at the firewall from the front of the plane) and getting ready
to match-drill the rest. Aligning the mount as best as I can and
looking into each of the remaining holes clockwise starting with the
bottom right corner, that one lines up fairly well. The 3/16" firewall
holes of the two center ones, bottom left corner, and top left corner
are respectively at 7, 8, 9, and 10 o'clock of the engine mount holes.
All sit inside of the engine mount holes except for the bottom center
two holes.
Looking at the engine mount I can only see the top left corner hole of
the engine mount giving.
How much have others had to beat the engine mount into submission?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
Jerry,
The high bright units run about $3000 and the normal units about $2500 depending
on memory installed. They also have CompactFlash and USB ports so it's easy
to extend memory. The normal brightness ones do amazingly well outside. The
units will do Linux, XP Embedded or XP Professional.
I must agree with some of the past posts regarding a Windows platform for anything
this important. That said, there will always be people (myself included sometimes)
that want to dabble and tinker. If you're one if these folks, then
a unit like this will reduce your chances of having hardware failures.
One application I've considered is mounting USB cameras out from different locations
(below the plane, from the tail, etc) and using a unit like this to view
out these cameras. Just a thought.
On a side note...I recently picked up one from ebay for $550. There's not a lot
of demand because not many people know about them and until just recently (about
a year ago), they only had a Windows CE unit.
Note...I'm not trying to sell these units, just trying to point people to an option.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Elevators
What is the approximate price for the high brightness unit, Kent?
Best Regards,
Jerry Hansen
Trio Avionics
http://www.trioavionics.com
Phone - 619-448-4619
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | oops rivets for AD4 |
Hi all,
I had a couple of bad rivets on the LE spar of the HS. They are in the
brackets that attach it to the tailcone (the pattern of nine) I tried to
be carefull when drilling them out but it looks like I enlarged the hole
too much and the AN470AD4-10 rivets that go there just smash into the
hole. I tried a longer rivet, but of course it just dumped.
Is there such a thing as an AN470AD4 oops rivet? I only see the ones to
replace AD3's. Otherwise, should I just drill them out and put in
AN470AD5? Am I going to have a problem with the heads fitting in between
the others or hole distances?
I noticed something cool tho... using my pneumatic squeezer, when you
squeeze rivets it smashes them hard and fast enough that the rivet
actually releases a little puff of smoke ;)
Thanks,
James
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oops rivets for AD4 |
I also had the same worry way back on a rivet or two and wanted
to find out about AD4 oops rivets. I never found any. I think
the only real "oops" rivet would be a flush rivet with an
oversized shank. If you have a round head AN470, you wouldn't
be worried about the flush head...you would just go up to
an AN470AD5 rivet. At SNF, I picked up a pack of AN470AD5-11
rivets, and figured if I ever mangled an AD4, I could trim
one of these to the proper length (bought a rivet cutter too),
and use it instead.
You also have the other option of putting in a nut and bolt
if you prefer...my guess is that you had a hard time hammering
the AD4, the AD5 won't be easier, so maybe a bolt
would be better anyway.
Yeah, that's cool about the smoke too...instantaneous heat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
James Ochs wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I had a couple of bad rivets on the LE spar of the HS. They are in the
> brackets that attach it to the tailcone (the pattern of nine) I tried to
> be carefull when drilling them out but it looks like I enlarged the hole
> too much and the AN470AD4-10 rivets that go there just smash into the
> hole. I tried a longer rivet, but of course it just dumped.
>
> Is there such a thing as an AN470AD4 oops rivet? I only see the ones to
> replace AD3's. Otherwise, should I just drill them out and put in
> AN470AD5? Am I going to have a problem with the heads fitting in between
> the others or hole distances?
>
> I noticed something cool tho... using my pneumatic squeezer, when you
> squeeze rivets it smashes them hard and fast enough that the rivet
> actually releases a little puff of smoke ;)
>
> Thanks,
> James
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Interior Paint |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'm getting ready to shoot the interior with PPG DX-1791 (self etching
primer) and Concept (color coat) over that. Interestingly, the data
sheet for the Concept says that the DX1791 must be primed/sealed before
shooting the Concept. Randy just shot the Concept directly over the
DX-1791 - anybody got any idea why the manufacturer recommends the
primer/sealer?
I also picked up some K-36 just in case I decide to actually follow the
directions since I'll need it for the fiberglass stuff anyway.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Interior Paint |
Hey Bob, we're still on the same timelines as usual. I just
purchased my interior paint today. I used the AKZO, so I
didn't get the DX-1791 (and can't answer your question),
but here's what I did get.
2 qts PPG Concept in a cool grey color
2 qts DU5 Catalyst
1 DT870 Reducer
2 qts DX685 flattening agent
1 qt DX330 Cleaner, degreaser, wax remover
This should be plenty to do the interior, and as we discussed
offline, the DX685 flattening agent should get rid of some of
that gloss and make it more of a semi-gloss to eggshell
depending on how I mix it up. I'm going to try for something
that barely has any reflective shine to it. I ended up with
the DU5 just because the DX685 data sheet that we had was
written with DU5 in mind. From what I understand, the other
stuff just better matches some VOC regulations in some areas.
The DU5 also increases pot life from 1-3 hours up to 2-4 hours.
I can't say that I've ever sprayed either of these, but I hope
to be spraying mid-week this week, so I'll report back how it all
turns out. I'm thinking 2-3 total coats should do it.
I can't wait to get to the point where I can paint the fiberglass
portion. It's still a ways off.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to shoot the interior with PPG DX-1791 (self etching
> primer) and Concept (color coat) over that. Interestingly, the data
> sheet for the Concept says that the DX1791 must be primed/sealed before
> shooting the Concept. Randy just shot the Concept directly over the
> DX-1791 - anybody got any idea why the manufacturer recommends the
> primer/sealer?
>
> I also picked up some K-36 just in case I decide to actually follow the
> directions since I'll need it for the fiberglass stuff anyway.
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Interior Paint |
I used the DX-1791, K36 and Concept for the exterior of my RV-9 and had
great results. I believe the chemical bonding from one product to the
other is the reason this order should be followed for the best adhesion
possible.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Interior Paint
I'm getting ready to shoot the interior with PPG DX-1791 (self etching
primer) and Concept (color coat) over that. Interestingly, the data
sheet for the Concept says that the DX1791 must be primed/sealed before
shooting the Concept. Randy just shot the Concept directly over the
DX-1791 - anybody got any idea why the manufacturer recommends the
primer/sealer?
I also picked up some K-36 just in case I decide to actually follow the
directions since I'll need it for the fiberglass stuff anyway.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Interior Paint |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Tim,
What sort of prep do you have to do to the AKZO before paint - just
clean, scuff, clean?
It will probably be a little while before I actually spray. It's pretty
hot and humid here plus I've got some travel over the next couple of
weeks.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Interior Paint
Hey Bob, we're still on the same timelines as usual. I just
purchased my interior paint today. I used the AKZO, so I
didn't get the DX-1791 (and can't answer your question),
but here's what I did get.
2 qts PPG Concept in a cool grey color
2 qts DU5 Catalyst
1 DT870 Reducer
2 qts DX685 flattening agent
1 qt DX330 Cleaner, degreaser, wax remover
This should be plenty to do the interior, and as we discussed
offline, the DX685 flattening agent should get rid of some of
that gloss and make it more of a semi-gloss to eggshell
depending on how I mix it up. I'm going to try for something
that barely has any reflective shine to it. I ended up with
the DU5 just because the DX685 data sheet that we had was
written with DU5 in mind. From what I understand, the other
stuff just better matches some VOC regulations in some areas.
The DU5 also increases pot life from 1-3 hours up to 2-4 hours.
I can't say that I've ever sprayed either of these, but I hope
to be spraying mid-week this week, so I'll report back how it all
turns out. I'm thinking 2-3 total coats should do it.
I can't wait to get to the point where I can paint the fiberglass
portion. It's still a ways off.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to shoot the interior with PPG DX-1791 (self etching
> primer) and Concept (color coat) over that. Interestingly, the data
> sheet for the Concept says that the DX1791 must be primed/sealed
before
> shooting the Concept. Randy just shot the Concept directly over the
> DX-1791 - anybody got any idea why the manufacturer recommends the
> primer/sealer?
>
> I also picked up some K-36 just in case I decide to actually follow
the
> directions since I'll need it for the fiberglass stuff anyway.
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Interior Paint |
Hi Bob,
I used AKZO on the RV-6 kit I started. Scuffing then cleaning with
Alumiprep worked well for me. I'm taking the "no-prime" approach
with the 10... and can't say enough about how well that's working.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
285 hours, finishing up the trim tabs today or tomorrow.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 2:06 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
> Tim,
>
> What sort of prep do you have to do to the AKZO before paint - just
> clean, scuff, clean?
>
> It will probably be a little while before I actually spray. It's
> pretty
> hot and humid here plus I've got some travel over the next couple of
> weeks.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 3:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Interior Paint
>
>
> Hey Bob, we're still on the same timelines as usual. I just
> purchased my interior paint today. I used the AKZO, so I
> didn't get the DX-1791 (and can't answer your question),
> but here's what I did get.
>
> 2 qts PPG Concept in a cool grey color
> 2 qts DU5 Catalyst
> 1 DT870 Reducer
> 2 qts DX685 flattening agent
> 1 qt DX330 Cleaner, degreaser, wax remover
>
> This should be plenty to do the interior, and as we discussed
> offline, the DX685 flattening agent should get rid of some of
> that gloss and make it more of a semi-gloss to eggshell
> depending on how I mix it up. I'm going to try for something
> that barely has any reflective shine to it. I ended up with
> the DU5 just because the DX685 data sheet that we had was
> written with DU5 in mind. From what I understand, the other
> stuff just better matches some VOC regulations in some areas.
> The DU5 also increases pot life from 1-3 hours up to 2-4 hours.
> I can't say that I've ever sprayed either of these, but I hope
> to be spraying mid-week this week, so I'll report back how it all
> turns out. I'm thinking 2-3 total coats should do it.
>
> I can't wait to get to the point where I can paint the fiberglass
> portion. It's still a ways off.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>>
>
>
>>
>> I'm getting ready to shoot the interior with PPG DX-1791 (self
>> etching
>> primer) and Concept (color coat) over that. Interestingly, the data
>> sheet for the Concept says that the DX1791 must be primed/sealed
>>
> before
>
>> shooting the Concept. Randy just shot the Concept directly over the
>> DX-1791 - anybody got any idea why the manufacturer recommends the
>> primer/sealer?
>>
>> I also picked up some K-36 just in case I decide to actually follow
>>
> the
>
>> directions since I'll need it for the fiberglass stuff anyway.
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
Tim,
Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about the
AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been pinned
down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul price
and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
Marcus,
I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
components might have to be changed. You don't use the
same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
and commit.
I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
Aerosport. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You do
bring
> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel pump
are
> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted engines.
I
> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have the
> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>
> Thanks again,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>
>
> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions just
> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
> instructions. My advice is this:
>
> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions page
> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your fuselage,
> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
> his spar.
>
> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>
> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>
> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>
> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>
> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
> them there for drilling and fitting.
>
> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
> with a little help if needed.
>
> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
> this summer.
>
> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
> photos of how I got started.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>>
>>I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it in the
>>archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>
>>I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there aren't
>>separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already been done
>>and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>
> through
>
>>the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
>>beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros or cons
>>for either option?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy's Abros mail" <randy(at)abros.com> |
| Subject: | N610RV Fly-off complete. |
Just a quick update on the fly-off. I completed the test flights on Friday
the 3rd. All systems go. My wife and I flew for about 3 1/2 hours on
Saturday. We flew the Bend airport and picked up John and his wife Sunny.
The four of us went on a 30 min or so flight around the area. They really
liked how the plane handled. I had about 32 gal of fuel on board, the 4 of
us and I had a 50 pounds of lead shot in the rear baggage compartment. Very
nice feel to the landings. The 50 lbs allows you to have extra trim if
needed. I will slowly reduce the lead shot until I find the best balance.
The factory always recommends 25 to 50 lbs when carrying 2 up front. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Interior Paint |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks. I also took the "no-prime" approach for most things, but am
going to paint the interior cabin area and want max adhesion and
durability.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Interior Paint
Hi Bob,
I used AKZO on the RV-6 kit I started. Scuffing then cleaning with
Alumiprep worked well for me. I'm taking the "no-prime" approach
with the 10... and can't say enough about how well that's working.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
285 hours, finishing up the trim tabs today or tomorrow.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 2:06 PM, Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
> Tim,
>
> What sort of prep do you have to do to the AKZO before paint - just
> clean, scuff, clean?
>
> It will probably be a little while before I actually spray. It's
> pretty
> hot and humid here plus I've got some travel over the next couple of
> weeks.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 3:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Interior Paint
>
>
> Hey Bob, we're still on the same timelines as usual. I just
> purchased my interior paint today. I used the AKZO, so I
> didn't get the DX-1791 (and can't answer your question),
> but here's what I did get.
>
> 2 qts PPG Concept in a cool grey color
> 2 qts DU5 Catalyst
> 1 DT870 Reducer
> 2 qts DX685 flattening agent
> 1 qt DX330 Cleaner, degreaser, wax remover
>
> This should be plenty to do the interior, and as we discussed
> offline, the DX685 flattening agent should get rid of some of
> that gloss and make it more of a semi-gloss to eggshell
> depending on how I mix it up. I'm going to try for something
> that barely has any reflective shine to it. I ended up with
> the DU5 just because the DX685 data sheet that we had was
> written with DU5 in mind. From what I understand, the other
> stuff just better matches some VOC regulations in some areas.
> The DU5 also increases pot life from 1-3 hours up to 2-4 hours.
> I can't say that I've ever sprayed either of these, but I hope
> to be spraying mid-week this week, so I'll report back how it all
> turns out. I'm thinking 2-3 total coats should do it.
>
> I can't wait to get to the point where I can paint the fiberglass
> portion. It's still a ways off.
>
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>>
>
>
>>
>> I'm getting ready to shoot the interior with PPG DX-1791 (self
>> etching
>> primer) and Concept (color coat) over that. Interestingly, the data
>> sheet for the Concept says that the DX1791 must be primed/sealed
>>
> before
>
>> shooting the Concept. Randy just shot the Concept directly over the
>> DX-1791 - anybody got any idea why the manufacturer recommends the
>> primer/sealer?
>>
>> I also picked up some K-36 just in case I decide to actually follow
>>
> the
>
>> directions since I'll need it for the fiberglass stuff anyway.
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
Thanks, Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
> the
> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
> pinned
> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
> price
> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
>
> Marcus,
>
> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>
> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
> and commit.
>
> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
> Aerosport. ;)
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You do
> bring
>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>> pump
> are
>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>> engines.
> I
>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have
>> the
>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>
>>
>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>> just
>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>
>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>> page
>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>> fuselage,
>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
>> his spar.
>>
>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>
>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>
>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>>
>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>
>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>
>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>> with a little help if needed.
>>
>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>> this summer.
>>
>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>> photos of how I got started.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>> in the
>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>
>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>> aren't
>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>> been done
>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>>
>> through
>>
>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>> or cons
>>> for either option?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Interior Paint |
Tim/Bob,
Where are you getting your paint and primer from. I know I can get the
Akzo from ACS with a hazmat fee. I am struggling to find a local
supplier here in New Jersey. There is a local supplier of R-M (BASF)
paints but I have not heard of anyone using there products. I am
looking for a 2 part chromated epoxy primer.
Larry Rosen
#356
Struggling to choose a primer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Interior Paint |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Larry,
I went with a minimalist approach and used NAPA #7220 which is a self
etching rattle can primer for the non-alclad surfaces. For "real"
primer and paint (cabin interior) I went with PPG and found a local
distributor. Here's the link to the distributor
http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmFindDistributor.asp
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Interior Paint
Tim/Bob,
Where are you getting your paint and primer from. I know I can get the
Akzo from ACS with a hazmat fee. I am struggling to find a local
supplier here in New Jersey. There is a local supplier of R-M (BASF)
paints but I have not heard of anyone using there products. I am
looking for a 2 part chromated epoxy primer.
Larry Rosen
#356
Struggling to choose a primer
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | N610RV Fly-off complete. |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I am wondering if I will need the extra weight with the three bladed MT
prop. The MT prop is roughly 20 lbs. lighter than the Hartzell.
Scott Schmidt
Cell: 801-319-3094
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy's Abros
mail
Subject: RV10-List: N610RV Fly-off complete.
Just a quick update on the fly-off. I completed the test flights on
Friday the 3rd. All systems go. My wife and I flew for about 3 1/2
hours on Saturday. We flew the Bend airport and picked up John and his
wife Sunny. The four of us went on a 30 min or so flight around the
area. They really liked how the plane handled. I had about 32 gal of
fuel on board, the 4 of us and I had a 50 pounds of lead shot in the
rear baggage compartment. Very nice feel to the landings. The 50 lbs
allows you to have extra trim if needed. I will slowly reduce the lead
shot until I find the best balance. The factory always recommends 25 to
50 lbs when carrying 2 up front. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
Rob,
I haven't talked to Lycoming, but I did speak to the folks at Aerosport
and they were very confident the engine would be out by Oshkosh, possibly
even mid Jul. I also spoke to Allen at Barrett Performance Engines
(bpaengines.com) and he said the same thing, I don't know their price
though. Apparently there are only a handful of places that will be
authorized to assemble the engine. The engine will have a data plate from
the assembling company in lieu of Lycoming, otherwise all new parts.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
Thanks, Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
> the
> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
> pinned
> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
> price
> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
>
> Marcus,
>
> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>
> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
> and commit.
>
> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
> Aerosport. ;)
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You do
> bring
>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>> pump
> are
>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>> engines.
> I
>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have
>> the
>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>
>>
>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>> just
>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>
>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>> page
>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>> fuselage,
>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled through
>> his spar.
>>
>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>
>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>
>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>>
>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>
>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>
>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>> with a little help if needed.
>>
>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>> this summer.
>>
>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>> photos of how I got started.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>> in the
>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>
>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>> aren't
>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>> been done
>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>>
>> through
>>
>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at the
>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>> or cons
>>> for either option?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Interior Paint |
Larry,
I just got Mine from Aircraft Spruce. I don't remember the hazmat fee
being too awful bad. It looks to me as if 2 orders of primer will
be enough to do the entire inside with some to spare. That's
2 gallons of each. I'd only buy one 2 gallon set at a time though.
You may just find that you will get by fine with only that much.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Larry wrote:
>
> Tim/Bob,
> Where are you getting your paint and primer from. I know I can get the
> Akzo from ACS with a hazmat fee. I am struggling to find a local
> supplier here in New Jersey. There is a local supplier of R-M (BASF)
> paints but I have not heard of anyone using there products. I am
> looking for a 2 part chromated epoxy primer.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> Struggling to choose a primer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
I'm looking for advice again. Right now I'm well into the construction of
the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the fuselage (slow
build) afterward. This way I can eventually connect the two and put it on
the gear. I'm concerned about multiple pieces lying around the shop and see
this as a way to "consolidate" them. Wings would get done after this. Is
this an okay idea? Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sean Blair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Pictures of your RV-10 |
Hey everyone. Just thought I would do a little showing off. Attached are
the pictures of the seats that I came up with through Oregon Aero. Two tone
leather and then I had them embroider some clip art and the wording into the
tops of the seats. They should go nicely with the paint scheme and Hooker
Harnesses of the same colors. Be warned though......on top of the
"included" price in the finish kit of the two front seats, I shelled out
over $3,800.00 for the upholstery and back seat cores. Maybe not smart, but
I'll be looking at them everyday for years and don't think I'll regret it
later. Oregon Aero said they may feature these in there upcoming catalog.
Overall they were good to deal with, but there seemed to be somewhat of a
disconnect between them and Van's along the way. No complaints now though.
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Dimple Dies |
| From: | "Droopy Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
I'm getting ready to dimple everything on my left tank. Wondering what
the general consensus is on how to use the fuel tank dimple dies.
Should I just use them on the inside pieces and use the regular dies on
the skins, or do I need the bigger dimple on the skin also to accomodate
sealant coming up around the rivet heads?
Thanks in advance,
John
#40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Sean
Will you order both the wings and the fuselage at the same time? The reason
I ask is that the spar center section comes with the wings and you'll need this
for the fuselage. Others that are farther along can give you a better idea
if changing the sequence would work.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
Fuel tanks kicking my A**
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Throttle cable bracket |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Did I ask this once before? We're working on our center radio console, which will
be below the throttle in the center while we are (still) waiting for a Finish
Kit.
Can anyone shed light on when the mount for the throttle cable is fabricated and/or
installed? Is that with the Finish Kit or with the Firewall Forward Kit?
Anyone care to scan in a page of the plans or pass on the basic dimensions of
that thing?
Thanks,
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Documentation
Thanks for sending this out Bob. I noticed that the .jpgs to the group
came out messed up, but I posted it on my site as well.
You can get it off my Tips link (in .jpg or .pdf) from:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips
or direct here in .pdf
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/flap_positioner/FlapPositionerInstall.pdf
(The .pdf will be easier to download and read)
I also posted some new items that might be of interest to some. I ended
up finishing my ordering of large items for the panel today, and quickly
wanted to lay out my panel because we're gonna be scrambling to get it
cut so it's ready for OSH. To see how the layout would fit, I created
the major items in True-size printable .jpg's available on the tips page
as well. I taped them up to the panel and tested for fit.
I found that with my current layout, the center rib will likely not be
an issue, but once again the overall height that Van's provides us with
the panel is a very limiting factor. I can make 3-1/8" backup
instruments fit, but 2-1/4" fit much better. I have some good photos
available on a link off from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel
I'm really starting to wish that they would have made that panel 1"
taller.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Somebody requested the documentation for the Van's flap positioning
> system in .pdf. Unfortunately I have a few domestic IT issues that
> prevent me from doing the conversion but I've attached .jpg files of
> the two pages. Just in case the list strips the attachments I've
> cc'd Tim and maybe he can post them.
>
> Sorry about the file sizes - I was concerned that if I compressed
> them further it would compromise the readability.
>
> Bob #40105
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
All,
Just found some used $0.25 clecos for anybody else that needs to round out
their original set.
www.countrysidewalk.com <http://www.countrysidewalk.com/>
Look under their tool shed..
Rob Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
How did you manage to get the seats already, or did you already
get your finishing kit and fuselage, you just haven't started
on them?
Other than the wing center section, I don't see any reason why
you couldn't start the fuselage first if you had to.
Tim
Sean Blair wrote:
> Im looking for advice again. Right now Im well into the construction
> of the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the
> fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can eventually connect the
> two and put it on the gear. Im concerned about multiple pieces lying
> around the shop and see this as a way to consolidate them. Wings
> would get done after this. Is this an okay idea? Any input would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
Many months ago I sold the Harley (miss it lots) to get the airframe, so I
have it in the shop. I had intentions to build this much more aggressively
than reality and a promotion at work would allow. Not bad problems but these
developments changed the timetable considerably. Well ahead on buying but
way behind on building. Sounds like it's okay to proceed this way. Thanks
for the help!!! Someday.........I will fly.
Sean
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuselage
How did you manage to get the seats already, or did you already
get your finishing kit and fuselage, you just haven't started
on them?
Other than the wing center section, I don't see any reason why
you couldn't start the fuselage first if you had to.
Tim
Sean Blair wrote:
> I'm looking for advice again. Right now I'm well into the construction
> of the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the
> fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can eventually connect the
> two and put it on the gear. I'm concerned about multiple pieces lying
> around the shop and see this as a way to "consolidate" them. Wings
> would get done after this. Is this an okay idea? Any input would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Anyone have a good source to get assembly lubes for engine build up?
TDT
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Sean Blair |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: fuselage
Many months ago I sold the Harley (miss it lots) to get the airframe, so I
have it in the shop. I had intentions to build this much more aggressively
than reality and a promotion at work would allow. Not bad problems but these
developments changed the timetable considerably. Well ahead on buying but
way behind on building. Sounds like it's okay to proceed this way. Thanks
for the help!!! Someday.........I will fly.
Sean
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuselage
How did you manage to get the seats already, or did you already
get your finishing kit and fuselage, you just haven't started
on them?
Other than the wing center section, I don't see any reason why
you couldn't start the fuselage first if you had to.
Tim
Sean Blair wrote:
> I'm looking for advice again. Right now I'm well into the construction
> of the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the
> fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can eventually connect the
> two and put it on the gear. I'm concerned about multiple pieces lying
> around the shop and see this as a way to "consolidate" them. Wings
> would get done after this. Is this an okay idea? Any input would be
> appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Throttle cable bracket |
I'm not 100% sure of this, but here goes...
I just received and inventoried my Firewall Forward kit Friday
and Saturday. In it were my throttle/mixture/prop cables, and
the 3 level throttle. (very cool) I might remember inventorying
the bracket in my Finishing kit that would work with the push-pull
setup. So I'm not sure exactly what to assume. Looking at the
plans that come with the FWF kit, they don't include the
mounting of the bracket, so I'm betting that it must be in the
Finishing kit...but, it's been a while since I inventoried the
Finishing kit so I might just not be remembering correctly.
I'll let someone else try to provide a better answer, and the
dimensions, and then if nobody replies soon I can shoot a
photo of the plans and send it to you.
If you're thinking of doing the 3-lever controls, which would
be cool with a center console, what I'd do is just order the
controls separately and then don't get them with the FWF
kit. The 3 lever thing comes in it's own box.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> Did I ask this once before? We're working on our center radio
> console, which will be below the throttle in the center while we are
> (still) waiting for a Finish Kit.
>
> Can anyone shed light on when the mount for the throttle cable is
> fabricated and/or installed? Is that with the Finish Kit or with the
> Firewall Forward Kit? Anyone care to scan in a page of the plans or
> pass on the basic dimensions of that thing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> TDT 40025
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson
> Sent: Fri 6/3/2005 12:13 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re:
> RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Documentation
>
>
>
>
> Thanks for sending this out Bob. I noticed that the .jpgs to the
> group came out messed up, but I posted it on my site as well.
>
> You can get it off my Tips link (in .jpg or .pdf) from:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips
>
> or direct here in .pdf
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/flap_positioner/FlapPositionerInstall.pdf
> (The .pdf will be easier to download and read)
>
> I also posted some new items that might be of interest to some. I
> ended up finishing my ordering of large items for the panel today,
> and quickly wanted to lay out my panel because we're gonna be
> scrambling to get it cut so it's ready for OSH. To see how the
> layout would fit, I created the major items in True-size printable
> .jpg's available on the tips page as well. I taped them up to the
> panel and tested for fit.
>
> I found that with my current layout, the center rib will likely not
> be an issue, but once again the overall height that Van's provides us
> with the panel is a very limiting factor. I can make 3-1/8" backup
> instruments fit, but 2-1/4" fit much better. I have some good photos
> available on a link off from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/panel
> I'm really starting to wish that they would have made that panel 1"
> taller.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170 Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>> Somebody requested the documentation for the Van's flap positioning
>> system in .pdf. Unfortunately I have a few domestic IT issues
>> that prevent me from doing the conversion but I've attached .jpg
>> files of the two pages. Just in case the list strips the
>> attachments I've cc'd Tim and maybe he can post them.
>>
>> Sorry about the file sizes - I was concerned that if I compressed
>> them further it would compromise the readability.
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
The clecos are used. and look out for the shipping charge. $15.55 for
me. If you are buying enough it could still make it less expensive than
$0.35 from brown tool. Cleco side grip clamps for $1.00
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> All,
>
> Just found some used $0.25 clecos for anybody else that needs to round
> out their original set.
>
> www.countrysidewalk.com <http://www.countrysidewalk.com/>
>
> Look under their tool shed.
>
> Rob Wright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Dimple Dies |
John,
Borrow mine, let me know when you can come over, I'll leave them in a secet location
if our schedules are off. I liked how they worked and I didn't have any
high rivets.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Droopy Erickson
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Dimple Dies
I'm getting ready to dimple everything on my left tank. Wondering what the general
consensus is on how to use the fuel tank dimple dies. Should I just use
them on the inside pieces and use the regular dies on the skins, or do I need
the bigger dimple on the skin also to accomodate sealant coming up around the
rivet heads?
Thanks in advance,
John
#40208 Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Sean,
Only thing I can think of that would cause an issue is the wing spar center section,
it comes with the wings and it is used in step #3 of the fuselage page 2
(25-2) So you may want to reconsider. My wings, completed take up a 24 " wide
by 14' long by 6' high space on their stand. not much room to have to give up.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean Blair
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: fuselage
I'm looking for advice again. Right now I'm well into the construction of the
tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the fuselage (slow build)
afterward. This way I can eventually connect the two and put it on the gear.
I'm concerned about multiple pieces lying around the shop and see this as
a way to "consolidate" them. Wings would get done after this. Is this an okay
idea? Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Sean Blair
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump) |
Marcus,
I heard the same thing at Sun/Fun about Superior (from Mattituck guys).
I wonder if this is all rumors. I have a contact at Superior and
talked to him (man to Man). He said that there are no plans at this
time and we should not plan our project in anticipation of a Superior
engine.
I have left a message with Oliver at Lycoming to find out for sure.
Will let everyone know about my findings.
Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 7:34 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Rob,
> I haven't talked to Lycoming, but I did speak to the folks at
> Aerosport
> and they were very confident the engine would be out by Oshkosh,
> possibly
> even mid Jul. I also spoke to Allen at Barrett Performance Engines
> (bpaengines.com) and he said the same thing, I don't know their price
> though. Apparently there are only a handful of places that will be
> authorized to assemble the engine. The engine will have a data plate
> from
> the assembling company in lieu of Lycoming, otherwise all new parts.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
>
> Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
> that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
> is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
> talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
>> the
>> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
>> pinned
>> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
>> price
>> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>
>>
>> Marcus,
>>
>> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
>> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
>> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
>> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
>> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
>> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
>> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
>> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
>> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
>> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
>> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
>> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
>> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
>> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
>> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
>> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
>> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>>
>> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
>> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
>> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
>> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
>> and commit.
>>
>> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
>> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
>> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
>> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
>> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
>> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
>> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
>> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
>> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
>> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
>> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
>> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
>> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
>> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
>> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
>> Aerosport. ;)
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You
>>> do
>> bring
>>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>>> pump
>> are
>>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
>>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>>> engines.
>> I
>>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have
>>> the
>>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>>
>>> Thanks again,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>>> just
>>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>>
>>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>>> page
>>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>>> fuselage,
>>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
>>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled
>>> through
>>> his spar.
>>>
>>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>>
>>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>>
>>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>>>
>>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>>
>>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>>
>>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>>> with a little help if needed.
>>>
>>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>>> this summer.
>>>
>>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>>> photos of how I got started.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>>> in the
>>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>>
>>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>>> aren't
>>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>>> been done
>>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>>>
>>> through
>>>
>>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at
>>>> the
>>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>>> or cons
>>>> for either option?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
Sean, It is a great Idea. I kinda did the same thing myself. I
bought the QB wings.
Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 8:42 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
> I=92m looking for advice again. Right now I=92m well into the construction
> of the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the
> fuselage (slow build) afterward.=A0 This way I can eventually connect
> the two and put it on the gear.=A0 I=92m concerned about multiple pieces
> lying around the shop and see this as a way to =93consolidate=94 them.=A0
> Wings would get done after this. Is this an okay idea?=A0 Any input
> would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
Sounds like a good idea to me, but you'll want to check with Van's
because your spar center sections come with the wing kit and are
supposedly matched to your spars. I'm sure they'd be able to include
them with your fuselage, but I'd check with them first.
PJ
Rob Kermanj wrote:
> Sean, It is a great Idea. I kinda did the same thing myself. I bought
> the QB wings.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 8:42 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
>
> Im looking for advice again. Right now Im well into the
> construction of the tailcone and think it might be good to go
> directly to the fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can
> eventually connect the two and put it on the gear. Im concerned
> about multiple pieces lying around the shop and see this as a way
> to consolidate them. Wings would get done after this. Is this
> an okay idea? Any input would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<42A5686C.8040307(at)seznam.cz>
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
The spar sections do not come matched. Van decided that the items were
manufactured exact enough that they did not have to be in pairs. In
fact, my spar belonged to another kit and I called them to make sure it
would fit my fuselage.
Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 5:27 AM, PJ Seipel wrote:
>
> Sounds like a good idea to me, but you'll want to check with Van's
> because your spar center sections come with the wing kit and are
> supposedly matched to your spars. I'm sure they'd be able to include
> them with your fuselage, but I'd check with them first.
> PJ
>
> Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
>> Sean, It is a great Idea. I kinda did the same thing myself. I bought
>> the QB wings.
>>
>> Rob.
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2005, at 8:42 PM, Sean Blair wrote:
>>
>> Im looking for advice again. Right now Im well into the
>> construction of the tailcone and think it might be good to go
>> directly to the fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can
>> eventually connect the two and put it on the gear. Im concerned
>> about multiple pieces lying around the shop and see this as a way
>> to consolidate them. Wings would get done after this. Is this
>> an okay idea? Any input would be appreciated.
>> Thanks,
>> Sean Blair
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a scale
to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that works well?
I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the proportions needed
to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the parts of epoxy but
then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one that
does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Pictures of your RV-10 |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com> |
Do you have any idea what the price of just the rear seat cores
are worth?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Pictures of your RV-10
Hey everyone. Just thought I would do a little showing off. Attached
are
the pictures of the seats that I came up with through Oregon Aero. Two
tone
leather and then I had them embroider some clip art and the wording into
the
tops of the seats. They should go nicely with the paint scheme and
Hooker
Harnesses of the same colors. Be warned though......on top of the
"included" price in the finish kit of the two front seats, I shelled out
over $3,800.00 for the upholstery and back seat cores. Maybe not smart,
but
I'll be looking at them everyday for years and don't think I'll regret
it
later. Oregon Aero said they may feature these in there upcoming
catalog.
Overall they were good to deal with, but there seemed to be somewhat of
a
disconnect between them and Van's along the way. No complaints now
though.
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
Its really eeasy to mix, go to any sight with pictures and look at the
color. Match the color and if its darker it will go off faster, and if its
lighter it will go off slower. Kind of go for a titanium color.
Bob K
PS That's what I did and on the tanks and they did not leak on the first
test.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Sealant Question
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a
scale to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that
works well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the
proportions needed to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the
parts of epoxy but then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one
that does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sean,
As Tim mentions, you're going to have to get the spar center section
which is normally delivered with the wings and is matched to the wing
spars. The entire fuselage is built around that center section so
there's really not much you can do without it.
If you haven't built before, I'd recommend doing the wings before the
fuselage to get the experience and "seasoning". Although
straightforward, the fuselage kit requires a lot more head scratching
during the build than either the tail or wings.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuselage
How did you manage to get the seats already, or did you already
get your finishing kit and fuselage, you just haven't started
on them?
Other than the wing center section, I don't see any reason why
you couldn't start the fuselage first if you had to.
Tim
Sean Blair wrote:
> I'm looking for advice again. Right now I'm well into the construction
> of the tailcone and think it might be good to go directly to the
> fuselage (slow build) afterward. This way I can eventually connect
the
> two and put it on the gear. I'm concerned about multiple pieces lying
> around the shop and see this as a way to "consolidate" them. Wings
> would get done after this. Is this an okay idea? Any input would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
I just went down to bath bed and beyond and got a cheapo plastic scale. Has
worked great so far...have done, rudder, elevators, ailerons, and
flaps.......fuel tanks are this weekend.
Rene'
N423cf
40322
Fuel Tanks (broke countersink bit, on hold awaiting two new ones)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Sealant Question
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a
scale to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that
works well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the
proportions needed to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the
parts of epoxy but then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one
that does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Sealant Question |
Personally, I eyeballed. I don't think the proportions
are that exacting. If you use too little hardner, it will
just take a little longer to stiffen up. I think that stuff
is so awful sticky that it would be very hard to deal with
on a scale, and you'd want a metal one.
But, I do think that there are some others who have used
scales....so obviously opinions may differ.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Current project: Fuselage
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>
> For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a scale
to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method that works
well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how exact the proportions
needed to be. From model building, I could always eyeball the parts of epoxy
but then again, those were equal quantities.
>
> If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable one that
does .1 gram accuracy?
>
> As always...thanks in advance,
>
> Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> 40338
> Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
> Wings are "in the house"
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Pictures of your RV-10 |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Nice Sean. They are as comfortable as the are good looking. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Pictures of your RV-10
Hey everyone. Just thought I would do a little showing off. Attached
are the pictures of the seats that I came up with through Oregon Aero.
Two tone leather and then I had them embroider some clip art and the
wording into the tops of the seats. They should go nicely with the
paint scheme and Hooker Harnesses of the same colors. Be warned
though......on top of the "included" price in the finish kit of the two
front seats, I shelled out over $3,800.00 for the upholstery and back
seat cores. Maybe not smart, but I'll be looking at them everyday for
years and don't think I'll regret it later. Oregon Aero said they may
feature these in there upcoming catalog.
Overall they were good to deal with, but there seemed to be somewhat of
a disconnect between them and Van's along the way. No complaints now
though.
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
What I did was to go down to WallyWorld's Aviation department, and
bought their digital scale, it will measure in grams, put it in a
ziplock bag, and used paper plates to mix it on, it has a tare function,
so you can zero it for the weight of the paper plate. Made it real easy,
and I got to throw out the plate each time for less clean up. I also
bought two different sizes of sticks to spread with, and used the
livestock syringe for a good bead line on the ribs.
YMMV
Dan
20269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Sealant Question
For those of you experts out there with tank sealants....are you using a
scale to measure out the two parts or is there a 'street smart' method
that works well? I'll buy a scale if I need to but wasn't sure how
exact the proportions needed to be. From model building, I could always
eyeball the parts of epoxy but then again, those were equal quantities.
If a scale is the answer, are there any recommendations on a reliable
one that does .1 gram accuracy?
As always...thanks in advance,
Oh yeh.....anyone else counting the hours until July 25th?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Oh so close to finishing the Elevators!
Wings are "in the house"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
Thanks...
Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
You need a bender that will do 1/4" and 3/8", flair tool needs to handle
the same.
Don't know about others, but I used a bit more 3/8" tubing than came
with the kit. It is fairly unforgiving stuff but fortunately relatively
inexpensive. You might consider adding some extra to your next order
from Van's to have on hand when you tackle the fuel line stuff.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
About time for me to order up the tube bender and flare tools. Just
wanted to ask about the tools size before I did.
For the bender, which size will cover everything? Small (1/8", 3/16",
1/4" O.D. Tubing 9/16" Bend radius) or Large (1/4" 5/16", 3/8" O.D.
Tubing 1" Bend radius)?
Will a 37 degree flair tool that handles 1/8" 3/16" 1/4" 5/16" 3/8"
7/16" 1/2" 5/8" 3/4" OD do the trick for everything?
Thanks...
Sean #40303 (wing spar countersink-itis)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Throttle cable bracket |
<42A50195.8030309(at)MyRV10.com>
Hey Tim, the throttle bracket( p/n F-10105) should be in your fuselage kit
stuff. It is located on page 41-2 and mounts up against the bottom of the
lower switch panel. It is 9 1/2 inches long. Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Oregon Aero seats |
I forgot who asked!! I purchased my rear seat cores from Oregon Aero for $578.
That's both seats uncovered. I had all four of my seats covered with fabric by
a local auto/boat shop for $700 and they look pretty good. Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
lol....."First test"......
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Sealant Question |
My 2 cents worth,
I used a digital postal scale I had laying around. I used a paper bowl and calibrated
it with the bowl on it. It weighed .03 oz FWIW. Then using large tongue
depressors I blobled in 1 oz. used a popscicle stick to add the hardner until
the scale read 1.1 oz. (10:1 ratio) This worked perfectly, I had plenty of time
to work with the material, was enough proseal to do what I needed at one time
and I used it all up exactly. I would do this at first until you get good
color recognition then feel free to eyeball it.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero seats |
Mark, do you have a picture of your upholstery? Perhaps I can send my
seats to him. Oregon Aero seems to be very pricy.
Thanks, Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 3:39 PM, Mark Chamberlain wrote:
> I forgot who asked!! I purchased my rear seat cores from Oregon Aero
> for $578. That's both seats uncovered. I had all four of my seats
> covered with fabric by a local auto/boat shop for $700 and they look
> pretty good. Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oregon Aero seats |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
In the quest for seat covers, has anyone made some detailed measurements of the
front seats (or rears, for that matter?)
Hmm. There's a minimum-security prison near me that does upholstery in the prison
workshop for good rates . . .
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oregon Aero seats
Mark, do you have a picture of your upholstery? Perhaps I can send my seats to
him. Oregon Aero seems to be very pricy.
Thanks, Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 3:39 PM, Mark Chamberlain wrote:
I forgot who asked!! I purchased my rear seat cores from Oregon Aero for $578.
That's both seats uncovered. I had all four of my seats covered with fabric by
a local auto/boat shop for $700 and they look pretty good. Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
So, the recent conversation on alodining skins has me wondering about
something else. When painting aircraft most paint shops will acid wash,
alodine, and then go through the painting steps. This brings up the
questions:
1) How do they keep acid and alodine out of cracks and crevices
2) How can they make sure they get every bit of acid and alodine off
3) What kind of damage would either do if wicked inside of a skin for
instance
4) How do they capture and dispose of the alodine.
Also, I have been considering filling my rivet lines with filler for
that nice flush appearance. I know it's not necessary, and I can hear
some people gasping at this moment, but, ignoring any weight issues from
the filler, it would look slick and I know other people have done it.
So ignoring all of the usual "why would you do that" stuff, does anyone
have any real reasons that someone shouldn't? I know it would be much
more difficult to remove a skin if necessary, but that would suck either
way.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352
Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (540 Kit) |
Rob,
I asked the same thing of Superior at Sun-n-Fun and got the same answer.
The difference is the 540 kit is actually from Lycoming, not from Superior.
Might all be bogus rumor, but it sounds pretty good according to Barrett and
Aerosport.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
Marcus,
I heard the same thing at Sun/Fun about Superior (from Mattituck guys).
I wonder if this is all rumors. I have a contact at Superior and
talked to him (man to Man). He said that there are no plans at this
time and we should not plan our project in anticipation of a Superior
engine.
I have left a message with Oliver at Lycoming to find out for sure.
Will let everyone know about my findings.
Rob.
On Jun 6, 2005, at 7:34 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Rob,
> I haven't talked to Lycoming, but I did speak to the folks at
> Aerosport
> and they were very confident the engine would be out by Oshkosh,
> possibly
> even mid Jul. I also spoke to Allen at Barrett Performance Engines
> (bpaengines.com) and he said the same thing, I don't know their price
> though. Apparently there are only a handful of places that will be
> authorized to assemble the engine. The engine will have a data plate
> from
> the assembling company in lieu of Lycoming, otherwise all new parts.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
>
> Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
> that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
> is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
> talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Tim,
>> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
>> the
>> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
>> pinned
>> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
>> price
>> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>
>>
>> Marcus,
>>
>> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
>> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
>> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
>> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
>> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
>> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
>> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
>> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
>> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
>> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
>> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
>> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
>> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
>> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
>> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
>> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
>> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>>
>> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
>> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
>> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
>> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
>> and commit.
>>
>> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
>> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
>> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
>> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
>> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
>> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
>> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
>> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
>> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
>> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
>> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
>> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
>> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
>> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
>> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
>> Aerosport. ;)
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>> Current project: Fuselage
>>
>>
>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You
>>> do
>> bring
>>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>>> pump
>> are
>>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a high
>>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>>> engines.
>> I
>>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to have
>>> the
>>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>>
>>> Thanks again,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>>> just
>>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>>
>>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>>> page
>>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>>> fuselage,
>>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a hole
>>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled
>>> through
>>> his spar.
>>>
>>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>>
>>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>>
>>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2" everywhere.
>>>
>>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>>
>>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>>
>>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>>> with a little help if needed.
>>>
>>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>>> this summer.
>>>
>>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>>> photos of how I got started.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>>> in the
>>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>>
>>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>>> aren't
>>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>>> been done
>>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering going
>>>
>>> through
>>>
>>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at
>>>> the
>>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>>> or cons
>>>> for either option?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank countersink ? |
When countersinking the fuel tank skin at the baffle flange, how much
deeper, if any, did you go to allow for the sealant? There's not much
material thickness there to play with so I don't want to overdo it......john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools |
"rocket-list"
The "normal/standard" flare of a plumbing tool is 45 degrees. AN fittings
are "aviation/racing" flare and are 37 degrees. They are NOT
interchangeable. Have never seen a 37 degree flaring tool or fittings at
Lowes, Home Deport, Ace, etc. I was only a plumbing/air conditioning
contractor for 25 years & have not been in every hardware store in the
country. HOWEVER if the flaring tool does not specifically state it's
aviation, AN, 37 degree it probably is not. Also have not seen 37 degree
"cheapo" flaring tools. Lots of low costs 45 degree units. In this case
"Ya'll get what you pay for". Remember when you bend tubing you harden it.
The outside of the bend will create a "hard" spot. Since most tubing is
shipped in a coil, plan ahead and do not straighten out tubing before
bending. We have & used tubing benders but most of the tubing on N561FS was
bent bare handed by me, hey with 25+ years experience ya do get pretty good
with your hands. This is another place where you DO NOT assemble
fittings/tubing under any stress. Bend it to perfectly fit. KABONG 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tubing Bender And Flare Tools
>
> Check the flare. I think it will be the wrong deg. Flare. I can't
> remember the flare deg but 1 is 37 deg and one is 45 deg and they are
> not interchangeable. For instance I have a flare tool for automotive
> flares for brake lines and it will not work for aviation. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Sealant Question |
I also used a very expensive zip lock bag with a tiny portion of the corner
cut out for an applicator. Cost $.oo3 per bag. L a t e x Gloves , were
more important than anything else. Stuff is sticky and gloves can be bought
by the 100. I were two at a time and easier to keep clean that way.
Bob K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Chapman" <bcrnfnps(at)swoi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oregon Aero seats |
I also have a prison near by that does upolstery. I figured I would get them to
do the coverings. And they only charge a little more than materials for the
whole job. I've been told that you can offer a case of cokes or such and get
dynomite work from them...Sounds good to me!!!!
barry Chapman
Student
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oregon Aero seats
In the quest for seat covers, has anyone made some detailed measurements of the
front seats (or rears, for that matter?)
Hmm. There's a minimum-security prison near me that does upholstery in the prison
workshop for good rates . . .
TDT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got started making airplane
parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!. I mistook the spar
flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the holes that couple the spar
caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems they should have been
drilled #40!
Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or do I need to get new
parts from Vans and do it again????
Deems Davis\empcone\#406
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank countersink ? |
How much deeper? Slightly. Basically, take a rivet, and set up your
microstop so that the rivet sits a tad bit beneath the surface of the skin.
Just a very slight over-countersink will do it.
One way to try to approximate it more accurately would be to form a regular
dimple in some .032" thick scrap (or however thick the RV-10 tank skin
is...I'm not there yet), but use your fuel tank dimple dies. Then see how
the rivet sits in that dimple. Just mimic that depth with your microstop
and countersink cutter.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>
> When countersinking the fuel tank skin at the baffle flange, how much
> deeper, if any, did you go to allow for the sealant? There's not much
> material thickness there to play with so I don't want to overdo
it......john
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<001201c56bd2$639fd310$6401a8c0@tiger.virtualcorp.net>
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
NAS1097AD4-5. Called "oops" rivets. Sold by Vans. You'll need 0.03 lb of
them.
John Kirkland
#40333
Deems Davis writes:
>
> Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got started making airplane
> parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!. I mistook the spar
> flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the holes that couple the spar
> caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems they should have been
> drilled #40!
> Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or do I need to get new
> parts from Vans and do it again????
>
> Deems Davis\empcone\#406
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
I did about the same thing. I called Van's , they said
"just use the AN4 rivets and keep building." You look
at my VS and looks like it was supposed to be that
way.
Steve 40212 wings
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got
> started making airplane
> parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!.
> I mistook the spar
> flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the
> holes that couple the spar
> caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems
> they should have been
> drilled #40!
> Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or
> do I need to get new
> parts from Vans and do it again????
>
> Deems Davis\empcone\#406
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out!
http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
<001201c56bd2$639fd310$6401a8c0@tiger.virtualcorp.net> <20050608034013.27670.qmail(at)qmail.webpipe.net>
Funny how we seem to start that way....I messed up my spar cap on one
side too by not clamping it tight enough when I drilled. Your problem
shouldn't cause you to worry and get new parts though.
As John said, get the Ooops rivets...a small supply of various sizes.
I wouldn't just stop at the -5's that John mentioned unless you want to
cut them down.
Oops Rivets
NAS1097AD4-3.5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.20
NAS1097AD4-4 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
NAS1097AD4-5 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $15.00
NAS1097AD4-6 OOPS RIVETS (LB) $17.00
You don't need more than a small quanity of each, maybe a couple
bucks worth....like .05 or .10 lbs would more than do it.
While you're at it, you may want to order very small quantities
of extra rivets in various sizes as well. Cheap insurance on not
running out later.
AN426AD3-3, 3.5, 4, 5, 6
AN426AD4-4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
AN470AD4-4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
AN470AD3-4, 5, 6
You only use oops rivets when you have a flush rivet, and don't
want to enlarge the dimple or countersink. If it's a round
head rivet, you would just go up to the next size or use a
bolt, nut, and washer.
Other rivets to pick up a quantity of: (Maybe 50-100 of the
cheap ones, or at least a couple dozen of all)
LP4-3
CS4-4
MK319-BS
Also, I just ordered some AD-62-BS to have on hand, because
they're a little oversized in case I screw up a LP4-3 hole
(like I recently did)
Perhaps a dozen of these might be nice too: MSP-42
They're carbon steel rivets used in things like your
elevator control tubes.
You'll do well to keep some extras of hardware around. Van's
provides ONLY as much as you need, and sometimes by mistake,
not even that much. So keep some spares on hand and you won't
get slowed down. I just went through and got some various
nuts, bolts, washers, screws, and nutplates in the last week
because I was tired of coming up short all the time. I had
spares before, but I beefed up my spares a bit to accomodate
larger shortages. Cheap insurance.
Well, now that you're started, and you've already made a good
mistake, you can apply for your honorary membership in the
RV10 mistake and screwup club. I got a very good start when
I had 2 rudder skins stuck together and didn't notice that
when I was dimpling one with the squeezer that I punched a
row of holes through the other sheet. Hopefully you won't
get too many of those....maybe we'll have to start handing out
patches or hats to the ones with the larges boo boo's as
consolation gifts. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
John Kirkland wrote:
>
> NAS1097AD4-5. Called "oops" rivets. Sold by Vans. You'll need 0.03 lb of
> them.
> John Kirkland
> #40333
> Deems Davis writes:
>
>> Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally got started making
>> airplane
>> parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill once!. I mistook the spar
>> flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the holes that couple the
>> spar
>> caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it seems they should have been
>> drilled #40!
>> Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or do I need to get new
>> parts from Vans and do it again????
>> Deems Davis\empcone\#406
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (540 Kit) |
Thanks for you reply marcus. i will follow up with Lycoming.
Rob.
On Jun 7, 2005, at 6:02 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Rob,
> I asked the same thing of Superior at Sun-n-Fun and got the same
> answer.
> The difference is the 540 kit is actually from Lycoming, not from
> Superior.
> Might all be bogus rumor, but it sounds pretty good according to
> Barrett and
> Aerosport.
>
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 4:32 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>
>
> Marcus,
>
> I heard the same thing at Sun/Fun about Superior (from Mattituck guys).
> I wonder if this is all rumors. I have a contact at Superior and
> talked to him (man to Man). He said that there are no plans at this
> time and we should not plan our project in anticipation of a Superior
> engine.
>
> I have left a message with Oliver at Lycoming to find out for sure.
> Will let everyone know about my findings.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Jun 6, 2005, at 7:34 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Rob,
>> I haven't talked to Lycoming, but I did speak to the folks at
>> Aerosport
>> and they were very confident the engine would be out by Oshkosh,
>> possibly
>> even mid Jul. I also spoke to Allen at Barrett Performance Engines
>> (bpaengines.com) and he said the same thing, I don't know their price
>> though. Apparently there are only a handful of places that will be
>> authorized to assemble the engine. The engine will have a data plate
>> from
>> the assembling company in lieu of Lycoming, otherwise all new parts.
>>
>> Marcus
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 5:50 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>
>>
>> Marcus, I tried talking to Lycoming about the "experimental Engine"
>> that I noticed on this list. The person that can answer the question
>> is out until July 6th (perhaps he means June 6th). Have you actually
>> talked to them. Is a new Experimental engine for real?
>>
>> Thanks, Rob.
>>
>> On Jun 6, 2005, at 5:35 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>> Thanks again for the words. I wouldn't kick myself too hard about
>>> the
>>> AeroSport engine you bought though. They said the price hadn't been
>>> pinned
>>> down yet, but would most likely be right between the current overhaul
>>> price
>>> and Van's new price - ie about $35,000.
>>>
>>> Marcus
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 7:32 AM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets (fuel pump)
>>>
>>>
>>> Marcus,
>>>
>>> I've not really done any research into the fuel pumps, so I
>>> can't tell you if I got a good one, or not. But, if you
>>> turn to the pages in the plans that have fuel lines on them,
>>> they'll point out the Van's pump. ES Airflow Fuel Pump,
>>> ES Airflow Fuel Filter, and they have the Fuel Totalizer there
>>> as well, but you usually get that with your EIS I'm told.
>>> I verified that yes, in my case with the Chelton, I'd get it
>>> with my Grand Rapids EIS....so I'm currently working to get
>>> that piece delivered a.s.a.p. so I'm not held up for too
>>> long in running my fuel lines. That kind of thing will really
>>> hold you back. In fact, delivery of avionics in general will
>>> likely run 4-8 weeks in some cases, so you may as well pin down
>>> which EIS you're going to use and start buying....or if nothing
>>> else, just purchase the fuel flow transducer and don't buy
>>> it with the EIS. Either way, like I mentioned, it's actually
>>> time to start finalizing at least some things in regards to
>>> your panel....this stuff sneaks up on you.
>>>
>>> Oh, and the engine choice....another one to probably get
>>> hammered out too. If you don't, then some of these fuel
>>> components might have to be changed. You don't use the
>>> same fuel valve with the Continental. I'd just decide
>>> and commit.
>>>
>>> I just KNEW that the timing was such that I was going to be
>>> short-sold on my engine. ;) Here you're telling me that
>>> even AeroSport plans to have the new ECI Kit shortly after
>>> OSH. Heck, I'll be picking up my probably more expensive
>>> AeroSport engine AT OSH! (for those who are going, my engine
>>> is their IO-540 demo engine this year). Not only that, but
>>> I heard from someone else that Lycoming themselves are now
>>> about to launch 4 new engines that are for Homebuilts only,
>>> to get into this non-certified market....including an IO-540
>>> model, that will be at a lower cost. If Van's can sell the
>>> current Lycoming Factory IO-540 for around $39K, I wonder
>>> how much this experimental version will save. I bet it'll
>>> save a good couple thousand. I'll just be hoping that
>>> y'all have to pay top dollar for them there engines so that
>>> I don't feel so hosed buy buying my "rebuilt" from
>>> Aerosport. ;)
>>>
>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Tim,
>>>> Awesome response, thanks for all the information and ideas. You
>>>> do
>>> bring
>>>> up another question in a follow up post though. What kind of fuel
>>>> pump
>>> are
>>>> you using? I had an IO-540 on my Skybolt and remember needing a
>>>> high
>>>> pressure pump vs the MUCH cheaper Facet pump for the carbureted
>>>> engines.
>>> I
>>>> am leaning toward an IO-540 for this as well (AeroSport plans to
>>>> have
>>>> the
>>>> new kit Lycoming shortly after Oshkosh this year).
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again,
>>>> Marcus
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>> Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 9:50 PM
>>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: QB Fuselage Temp Rivets
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hey Marcus, I was in the exact same boat as you. Those directions
>>>> just
>>>> don't give you a good place to start. I'll tell you what, you will
>>>> keep finding things that were left undone as you go through the
>>>> instructions. My advice is this:
>>>>
>>>> Get a notebook in the shop with you. Go through the instructions
>>>> page
>>>> by page, at least looking at all of the diagrams and then your
>>>> fuselage,
>>>> even if you don't read all the steps. Then when you find a photo
>>>> with something undone, write the page number and step number in the
>>>> notebook, along with a note as to what it is. Just keeping going
>>>> through page by page and about 1/2 way through the instructions you
>>>> can just stop because not much will be done beyond that point.
>>>> You'll find all sorts of things. Make sure you never cover up a
>>>> hole
>>>> with something you bolt or rivet on until you see that the item that
>>>> might fill that hole under it was done. (remember the post from the
>>>> other list member who had holes that hadn't been match drilled
>>>> through
>>>> his spar.
>>>>
>>>> It's much harder gettings started on this fuse without having
>>>> a good order to follow, but after you get some of those little
>>>> things done, it'll start to flow again.
>>>>
>>>> You are pretty much safe to pull all of those temporary rivets
>>>> right away. I put some clecos in around the firewall where
>>>> I removed the, but otherwise I removed all of those temporary
>>>> rivets. YOu should also just remove all of them that hold your
>>>> whole upper deck around the instrument panel, and remove the
>>>> hole panel section. That will give you good access to the inside
>>>> of the fuse, and you'll absolutely need that when it's time to
>>>> run fuel lines, brake lines, rudder pedals, and those items.
>>>>
>>>> Under all of the floors you will find it isn't primed, so if
>>>> you're a primer kind of guy, there's your chance. Also, if you
>>>> plan to soundproof, NOW is the time to order your foam. I ordered
>>>> 3 pieces of 4'x4' from aircraft spruce, and it looks like this
>>>> will be just the right amount for most of this project. I may
>>>> need a little more, and I may have some small scraps left over.
>>>> I used 3/4" in the front, 1/2" in the middle, and 3/8" in the
>>>> rear, but you could just as easily do something like 1/2"
>>>> everywhere.
>>>>
>>>> Now is also the time to get yourself set up with the .311 or
>>>> 7.9mm (I think that's right) for drilling the holes in the gear
>>>> brackets. My friend who's has a mill just happened to have a
>>>> .311 reamer around he could loan me...it's one size under .3125.
>>>>
>>>> It's also time for you to get conduit lined up if you're planning
>>>> to use some, and start thinking of where to place your antennas.
>>>> If you're going to belly mount them, you'll probably want to be
>>>> safe and add doublers. Not only that, but if you're going to
>>>> belly mount them under the seats you're not going to have access
>>>> for too long, so you may as well buy the antennas and get
>>>> them there for drilling and fitting.
>>>>
>>>> As for how to work on the thing....I took the crate bottom,
>>>> and cut it off just under the rear fuselage area. Then
>>>> I used some of the lumber from the crate to beef up the
>>>> area I cut, and I put 4 casters under the crate. Then I
>>>> got some pallets to put under the tail. Now I can roll it around
>>>> with a little help if needed.
>>>>
>>>> It won't be too long and you'll also need to start making some
>>>> panel decisions, because you probably want to chop those ribs
>>>> to fit your instruments before you mount that top deck again...
>>>> and it won't take you too awful long to get to that step.
>>>> I'm just now getting ready to paint my interior and then
>>>> continue with the controls sections. After that, it's time
>>>> to pull out that fiberglass top. With any luck, I'll have
>>>> that lid on either just before or just after OSH....and then
>>>> it'll be time for the doors and windows and painting later
>>>> this summer.
>>>>
>>>> I hope that helps. If you check my page you'll see lots of
>>>> photos of how I got started.
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>>>> Current project: Fuselage
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I thought some of this had been covered before but I can't find it
>>>>> in the
>>>>> archives, sorry if it's a repeat.
>>>>>
>>>>> I received my QB fuselage last week, and after finding out there
>>>>> aren't
>>>>> separate instructions for the QB (just figure out what's already
>>>>> been done
>>>>> and don't do it again), I'm at a brief pause. I'm considering
>>>>> going
>>>>
>>>> through
>>>>
>>>>> the whole thing and drill out all the soft rivets vs. starting at
>>>>> the
>>>>> beginning of the instructions and drill out as required. Any pros
>>>>> or cons
>>>>> for either option?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Marcus
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank countersink ? |
John,
Not much more, the baffle pushes most of the proseal down into the tank when
you slide it into place. I left my countersinks just a reflection line below
the surface and it worked fine.
Rick S.
4015
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
>
> When countersinking the fuel tank skin at the baffle flange, how much
> deeper, if any, did you go to allow for the sealant? There's not much
> material thickness there to play with so I don't want to overdo
> it......john
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank countersink ? |
Rick & Dan,
Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting ready to
go......john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank countersink ?
Rick & Dan,
Thanks for the great advice. Warming up the microstop, getting ready to
go......john
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning what a spar web is the hard way - Help |
As a side note: when I spoke to Scott Risan at Van's
about this subject I asked about using "oops" rivets.
He said they were OK to use on an occasional rivet but
he would not recommend using them for a complete line
of rivets because of the smaller area of the rivet
head.
Steve 40212 Wings
--- Darton Steve wrote:
>
>
> I did about the same thing. I called Van's , they
> said
> "just use the AN4 rivets and keep building." You
> look
> at my VS and looks like it was supposed to be that
> way.
> Steve 40212 wings
>
> --- Deems Davis wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Shop is set up, empcone inventoried, I finally
> got
> > started making airplane
> > parts. Seems like I need to read twice drill
> once!.
> > I mistook the spar
> > flanges for the spar web and drilled all of the
> > holes that couple the spar
> > caps vs 1014L&R to VS 1003 with 1/8 holes. it
> seems
> > they should have been
> > drilled #40!
> > Can I just put AN4 rivets in these and continue or
> > do I need to get new
> > parts from Vans and do it again????
> >
> > Deems Davis\empcone\#406
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM
> and more. Check it out!
> http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html
>
>
>
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I think it is even better looking then the photo shows. The white
doesn't look good in the photo and in person I bet it look fabulous. I
do like the green. I am contemplating doing a Cirrus style stripes.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
-->
I think Ed McGinty is winnging the paint contest so far . . .
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?postid=9165
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
May 31, 2005 - June 08, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-aj