RV10-Archive.digest.vol-an
July 14, 2005 - August 02, 2005
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>>That's actually not very great news, 10.5 @ 125. Is this typical? I used
>>to do 12 @ 135 in the 182. I was hoping for better.
>>
>>John Jessen
>> (riveting the VS and rudder)
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:04 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Well I am in the final phase of painting the wheel pants. It is time for
>>another oil change. The oxy bottle will get purchased and hopefully
>>installed before Osh. The carpet is going in soon.
>>
>>I don't have enough time with the wheel pants on to get some true numbers
>>but Osh is coming up and should have some real numbers on a long trip like
>>that. I appears that if you pull back on the power at you can get about
>>10.5 gal an hour at 125 kts.
>>I still carry about 50 lbs in the baggage area when 2 up and pull it with
>
> 4.
>
>>It really handles 4 people well. In fact I prefer 4 people.
>>Myself, full fuel and 50 lbs in the back is fine. More trim and hold some
>>back pressure for the flare. Keep the speed up. Full flaps on all
>
> landings
>
>>seems to work best. Slower speed at touch down. The tires look great.
>
> Almost
>
>>no wear at 42 hours. Everyone that has ridden says how quiet it is. I
>
> have
>
>>the single mufflers system. Even people standing next to it when I had the
>>prop balanced said it was quite and that was running at 2300 RPM for 10
>>seconds or so. The prop balance was a big help. I could feel it in the
>>rudder peddles before. Can't wait to get to Osh. With it but I have a lot
>
> of
>
>>work to still do in 1 weekend and a few weeknights. After Osh. It will be
>>almost done and I can get back to that
>>lawn. Where was that mower? I saw it 21 months ago.... Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 11:10 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Hey Randy, any more little tidbits of interesting info since the flyoff?
>>Just wondering how things are going. Hope you are having a blast!
>>
>>I just need a little "builder boost". :)
>>
>>-Sean #40303 nearing end of flaps
>>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "stevenflys1(at)juno.com" <stevenflys1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Oshkosh Question |
Please put me on the list also.
Steven Morris
864-723-6346
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
I'm working on the HS Front Spar Attach Brackets that you form out of the 5"
piece of 2x2.5 angle. I ended up cutting them so that the angle opposite
the locator hole is a little short of the 21/32. I don't think that this
will be a structural issue in the piece itself, as there's still plenty of
material between the edge and the holes you drill into it. But since the
plans called for these exacting dimensions, where does the match up come
from? The only thing I can find in the plans are the shims I'll make later
for the TailCone attachment, which look like they have the same shape, but
not the same dimensions as the angles. I've attached pics. Looks like my
cutting and smoothing came out to about 17/32 instead of 21/32. I've marked
a blue spot on the ruler where the material should come to.
Do the plans make these match aesthetically or structurally? Someone with
an attached HS/Tailcone please advise your thoughts. I know I can call
Van's in the morning, but that always seems so far away when I can get
initial (and experienced) responses here.
Oh, and call it a wish and a prayer, but hopefully this'll be ok.I'm already
on try #2 with these brackets. Confession is good for the soul!
Rob Wright
40392
HS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Cable Attach |
I will look for a link. The guy is always at Sun-N-Fun with a little cheesy
display and sometimes wears a hat with a little propeller on top. Not very
impressive display, but the trim is STC'd for a lot of different aircraft.
All metal gears. Stop by and see N256H in the Home Builder's Parking area
and you can see the installation (they haven't been finished up, but they
are installed and working).
Also, the Infinity control stick is awesome. I think they are at
www.infinityaerospace.com and they will surely be at Oshkosh (a 450ish-pound
guy with a control yoke and a throttle quadrant on the table at the front of
the booth).
See ya'll at the show.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
Jesse,
Can you provide link or contact info for this?
Rick S.
N246RS
40185
Da Wings...waiting on Da Fuse...Sorry, in Chicago this week and next.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | larryrosen(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | My Web Site is Finally Up |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
You can check out my RV-10 Construction web site at
<http://home.comcast.net/~rv10pilot>
Constructive criticism is welcome :-0
Larry Rosen
#356
QB Wings and Fuselage were delivered yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
When you apply for your Airworthiness Certificate you submit notarized FAA
Form 8130-12 titled Eligibility Statement Amateur-Built Aircraft.
Section I. REGISTERED OWNER INFORMATION
Section II. AIRCRAFT INFORMATION
Section III MAJOR PORTION ELIGIBILITY STATEMENT OF APPLICANT
I certify the aircraft identified in section II above was fabricated and
assembled by _____ for my (their) education or recreation. I (we) have
records to support this statement and will make them available to the FAA
upon request.
-NOTICE-
Woever [sic] in any manner within the jurisdiction of a department or agency
of the United States knowingly and willfully falsifies, conceals or covers
up by any trick, scheme, or device a material fact, or who makes any false,
fictitious or fraudulent statements or representations, or makes or uses any
false writing or document knowing the same to contain any false, fictitious
or fraudulent statement or entry, shall be fined not more than $10,000 or
imprisoned not more than 5 years, or both (U.S. Code, Title 18, Sec. 1001.)
APPLICANT'S DECLARATION
I hereby certify that all statements and answers provided by me in this
statement form are complete and true to the best of my knowledge, and I
agree that they are to be considered part of the basis for issuance of any
FAA certificate to me. I have also read and understand the Privacy Act
statement that accompanies this form.
Signature of Applicant (in Ink)
Section IV. NOTARIZATION STATEMENT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach |
Good morning Jessie can I have a web page or phone number of that trim manufacturer
you mention,I use them in our boats ,and the Ray Allen where very scary when
we dissy, for repair and thinks your life hang from these oversize remote
control planes servos.
Thanks,Hugo
>
> From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
> Date: 2005/07/13 Wed PM 11:26:29 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
>
>
> I will look for a link. The guy is always at Sun-N-Fun with a little cheesy
> display and sometimes wears a hat with a little propeller on top. Not very
> impressive display, but the trim is STC'd for a lot of different aircraft.
> All metal gears. Stop by and see N256H in the Home Builder's Parking area
> and you can see the installation (they haven't been finished up, but they
> are installed and working).
>
> Also, the Infinity control stick is awesome. I think they are at
> www.infinityaerospace.com and they will surely be at Oshkosh (a 450ish-pound
> guy with a control yoke and a throttle quadrant on the table at the front of
> the booth).
>
> See ya'll at the show.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 7:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
>
>
> Jesse,
>
> Can you provide link or contact info for this?
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
> 40185
> Da Wings...waiting on Da Fuse...Sorry, in Chicago this week and next.
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Tim,
I have a 12" touch screen on the co-pilot side that will connect to a
laptop stored on the right forward sidewall. Movies for the co-pilot,
approach plates and taxi diagrams for the pilot at the touch of a
finger. The screen will be switchable to the Blue Mountain EFIS display
on the pilot's side.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I LOVE the nitrous idea....I suppose I could always give them
extra dramamine. ;) I'm planning to put in rear seat movies,
but as a post-flying install. I definitely see your point
about the stops. Usually I can keep the stops with the kids
to under 30 minutes, but it does add to the trip. I didn't
care in the past because on a 1000 mile trip, I wanted to land
and get a weather radar picture, but, now I'll have that in
my cockpit.....so I may as well keep the range up and move
along.
Hey, post a shot or two of your trim system...would be
interesting to all.
Definitely look me up at OSH...can't wait to see your -10!
Tim
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> One of the big issues for us on fuel burn vs. flight time is whether
or not
> you will have to make a stop. If you are going 1,000 miles (yes, I am
> talking statue number as always, sorry), it would be better to back it
off
> to wherever it is required to make it non-stop. Descending and buying
fuel,
> and getting back in for another hour or two actually adds about and
hour or
> two to the flight and might add more whining to the kids. You know, a
> little bit of nitros-oxide added to the rear seat passengers' oxygen
would
> take care of most of the whining, but then I guess you are increasing
your
> cost again. OH YEAH, invest in a DVD player and they can sit forever,
> right?
>
> IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE USE!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>
>
> Keep it in perspective though......my Sundowner does 9-9.5 @
> 110-112 Kts. Who really cares what the fuel flow is when
> you pull it way back that far. Fuel flow is directly related
> to speed...and speed is distance and time.
>
> For instance, would you rather rent a plane for $50/hr
> that goes 100kts, or one that goes 150Kts for $75/hr
> if you were going on a 1000Nm trip?
>
> Do the math and sure, the fuel burn may be much higher
> on the $75/hr plane, but the cost of the flight will
> be identical, and you'll get there over 3 hours quicker.
>
> Sure, you can get some slight economies by pulling the power
> back...Van's charts show the range increase as you
> reduce to lower % of power, but, is it really that big
> of a difference in the big scheme of things? I myself
> would rather get there before the kids get whiny, and
> pay the extra couple bucks.
>
> As for Randy's performance numbers, I'm not at all
> concerned what the fuel flow is at 125kts. I'd
> be much more interested to know what it flows
> at 165, 175, and 185Kts.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>>That's actually not very great news, 10.5 @ 125. Is this typical? I
used
>>to do 12 @ 135 in the 182. I was hoping for better.
>>
>>John Jessen
>> (riveting the VS and rudder)
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
DeBauw
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:04 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Well I am in the final phase of painting the wheel pants. It is time
for
>>another oil change. The oxy bottle will get purchased and hopefully
>>installed before Osh. The carpet is going in soon.
>>
>>I don't have enough time with the wheel pants on to get some true
numbers
>>but Osh is coming up and should have some real numbers on a long trip
like
>>that. I appears that if you pull back on the power at you can get
about
>>10.5 gal an hour at 125 kts.
>>I still carry about 50 lbs in the baggage area when 2 up and pull it
with
>
> 4.
>
>>It really handles 4 people well. In fact I prefer 4 people.
>>Myself, full fuel and 50 lbs in the back is fine. More trim and hold
some
>>back pressure for the flare. Keep the speed up. Full flaps on all
>
> landings
>
>>seems to work best. Slower speed at touch down. The tires look great.
>
> Almost
>
>>no wear at 42 hours. Everyone that has ridden says how quiet it is. I
>
> have
>
>>the single mufflers system. Even people standing next to it when I had
the
>>prop balanced said it was quite and that was running at 2300 RPM for
10
>>seconds or so. The prop balance was a big help. I could feel it in the
>>rudder peddles before. Can't wait to get to Osh. With it but I have a
lot
>
> of
>
>>work to still do in 1 weekend and a few weeknights. After Osh. It will
be
>>almost done and I can get back to that
>>lawn. Where was that mower? I saw it 21 months ago.... Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
Stephens
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 11:10 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Hey Randy, any more little tidbits of interesting info since the
flyoff?
>>Just wondering how things are going. Hope you are having a blast!
>>
>>I just need a little "builder boost". :)
>>
>>-Sean #40303 nearing end of flaps
>>
>>
>>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
My wife Brenda and I have decided to grab the bull by the horns (or the
plane by the prop) and make our motor home the gathering place in the
evenings at OSH. We are coming early and should have a decent place
close to the flightline.
Here is the plan, I will post the location at both the camp locator in
the camp ground and at Van's booth, if they will let me. Then every
evening feel free to gather and we will either just chat or if so moved
we will make a run with our tow vehicle and get some food and drinks.
I will carry my cell phone so you can call if you need more info, or
can't find the motor home (It is a Dolphin brand with large dolphin fish
on the side)
770-403-3450
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Werner Schneider" <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | O/IO-540 crankshaft problems |
MessageSeems Lycoming found more of this bad crankshafts, see
<http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage/serviceBulletin566/index.html>
Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | List Digest Truncation Fixed!! |
Dear Listers,
I finally figured out today what was causing the occasional
truncation of the daily List Digest emails. Seems that every once in
a while a message would contain a single "." (period) on line all by
itself. The mailers would see this and assume that this was the
universal emailer signal for "end of message", and consequently
wouldn't process any of the rest of the Digest message.
I've put in a filter today to remove any of these sequences so we
should be back in business on the Digests.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
I am considering the same type of setup on my panel. What brand of
screen did you use?
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
Tim,
I have a 12" touch screen on the co-pilot side that will connect to a
laptop stored on the right forward sidewall. Movies for the co-pilot,
approach plates and taxi diagrams for the pilot at the touch of a
finger. The screen will be switchable to the Blue Mountain EFIS display
on the pilot's side.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I LOVE the nitrous idea....I suppose I could always give them
extra dramamine. ;) I'm planning to put in rear seat movies,
but as a post-flying install. I definitely see your point
about the stops. Usually I can keep the stops with the kids
to under 30 minutes, but it does add to the trip. I didn't
care in the past because on a 1000 mile trip, I wanted to land
and get a weather radar picture, but, now I'll have that in
my cockpit.....so I may as well keep the range up and move
along.
Hey, post a shot or two of your trim system...would be
interesting to all.
Definitely look me up at OSH...can't wait to see your -10!
Tim
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> One of the big issues for us on fuel burn vs. flight time is whether
or not
> you will have to make a stop. If you are going 1,000 miles (yes, I am
> talking statue number as always, sorry), it would be better to back it
off
> to wherever it is required to make it non-stop. Descending and buying
fuel,
> and getting back in for another hour or two actually adds about and
hour or
> two to the flight and might add more whining to the kids. You know, a
> little bit of nitros-oxide added to the rear seat passengers' oxygen
would
> take care of most of the whining, but then I guess you are increasing
your
> cost again. OH YEAH, invest in a DVD player and they can sit forever,
> right?
>
> IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE USE!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>
>
> Keep it in perspective though......my Sundowner does 9-9.5 @
> 110-112 Kts. Who really cares what the fuel flow is when
> you pull it way back that far. Fuel flow is directly related
> to speed...and speed is distance and time.
>
> For instance, would you rather rent a plane for $50/hr
> that goes 100kts, or one that goes 150Kts for $75/hr
> if you were going on a 1000Nm trip?
>
> Do the math and sure, the fuel burn may be much higher
> on the $75/hr plane, but the cost of the flight will
> be identical, and you'll get there over 3 hours quicker.
>
> Sure, you can get some slight economies by pulling the power
> back...Van's charts show the range increase as you
> reduce to lower % of power, but, is it really that big
> of a difference in the big scheme of things? I myself
> would rather get there before the kids get whiny, and
> pay the extra couple bucks.
>
> As for Randy's performance numbers, I'm not at all
> concerned what the fuel flow is at 125kts. I'd
> be much more interested to know what it flows
> at 165, 175, and 185Kts.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>>That's actually not very great news, 10.5 @ 125. Is this typical? I
used
>>to do 12 @ 135 in the 182. I was hoping for better.
>>
>>John Jessen
>> (riveting the VS and rudder)
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
DeBauw
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:04 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Well I am in the final phase of painting the wheel pants. It is time
for
>>another oil change. The oxy bottle will get purchased and hopefully
>>installed before Osh. The carpet is going in soon.
>>
>>I don't have enough time with the wheel pants on to get some true
numbers
>>but Osh is coming up and should have some real numbers on a long trip
like
>>that. I appears that if you pull back on the power at you can get
about
>>10.5 gal an hour at 125 kts.
>>I still carry about 50 lbs in the baggage area when 2 up and pull it
with
>
> 4.
>
>>It really handles 4 people well. In fact I prefer 4 people.
>>Myself, full fuel and 50 lbs in the back is fine. More trim and hold
some
>>back pressure for the flare. Keep the speed up. Full flaps on all
>
> landings
>
>>seems to work best. Slower speed at touch down. The tires look great.
>
> Almost
>
>>no wear at 42 hours. Everyone that has ridden says how quiet it is. I
>
> have
>
>>the single mufflers system. Even people standing next to it when I had
the
>>prop balanced said it was quite and that was running at 2300 RPM for
10
>>seconds or so. The prop balance was a big help. I could feel it in the
>>rudder peddles before. Can't wait to get to Osh. With it but I have a
lot
>
> of
>
>>work to still do in 1 weekend and a few weeknights. After Osh. It will
be
>>almost done and I can get back to that
>>lawn. Where was that mower? I saw it 21 months ago.... Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
Stephens
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 11:10 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Hey Randy, any more little tidbits of interesting info since the
flyoff?
>>Just wondering how things are going. Hope you are having a blast!
>>
>>I just need a little "builder boost". :)
>>
>>-Sean #40303 nearing end of flaps
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Cable Attach |
I don't have the info with me. I am actually near Oshkosh right now and
will be until the show (home is Florida). I will try to get the guy's
information at the show or after the show I can look it up at home for those
of you who won't be going to the show. We don't know how well they will
hold up, but we will let you know if something happens to them.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
Good morning Jessie can I have a web page or phone number of that trim
manufacturer you mention,I use them in our boats ,and the Ray Allen where
very scary when we dissy, for repair and thinks your life hang from these
oversize remote control planes servos.
Thanks,Hugo
>
> From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
> Date: 2005/07/13 Wed PM 11:26:29 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
>
>
> I will look for a link. The guy is always at Sun-N-Fun with a little
cheesy
> display and sometimes wears a hat with a little propeller on top. Not
very
> impressive display, but the trim is STC'd for a lot of different aircraft.
> All metal gears. Stop by and see N256H in the Home Builder's Parking area
> and you can see the installation (they haven't been finished up, but they
> are installed and working).
>
> Also, the Infinity control stick is awesome. I think they are at
> www.infinityaerospace.com and they will surely be at Oshkosh (a
450ish-pound
> guy with a control yoke and a throttle quadrant on the table at the front
of
> the booth).
>
> See ya'll at the show.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 7:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
>
>
> Jesse,
>
> Can you provide link or contact info for this?
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
> 40185
> Da Wings...waiting on Da Fuse...Sorry, in Chicago this week and next.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I would love some more details (you can e-mail me off the list) of your
system.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
Tim,
I have a 12" touch screen on the co-pilot side that will connect to a
laptop stored on the right forward sidewall. Movies for the co-pilot,
approach plates and taxi diagrams for the pilot at the touch of a
finger. The screen will be switchable to the Blue Mountain EFIS display
on the pilot's side.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I LOVE the nitrous idea....I suppose I could always give them
extra dramamine. ;) I'm planning to put in rear seat movies,
but as a post-flying install. I definitely see your point
about the stops. Usually I can keep the stops with the kids
to under 30 minutes, but it does add to the trip. I didn't
care in the past because on a 1000 mile trip, I wanted to land
and get a weather radar picture, but, now I'll have that in
my cockpit.....so I may as well keep the range up and move
along.
Hey, post a shot or two of your trim system...would be
interesting to all.
Definitely look me up at OSH...can't wait to see your -10!
Tim
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> One of the big issues for us on fuel burn vs. flight time is whether
or not
> you will have to make a stop. If you are going 1,000 miles (yes, I am
> talking statue number as always, sorry), it would be better to back it
off
> to wherever it is required to make it non-stop. Descending and buying
fuel,
> and getting back in for another hour or two actually adds about and
hour or
> two to the flight and might add more whining to the kids. You know, a
> little bit of nitros-oxide added to the rear seat passengers' oxygen
would
> take care of most of the whining, but then I guess you are increasing
your
> cost again. OH YEAH, invest in a DVD player and they can sit forever,
> right?
>
> IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE USE!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>
>
> Keep it in perspective though......my Sundowner does 9-9.5 @
> 110-112 Kts. Who really cares what the fuel flow is when
> you pull it way back that far. Fuel flow is directly related
> to speed...and speed is distance and time.
>
> For instance, would you rather rent a plane for $50/hr
> that goes 100kts, or one that goes 150Kts for $75/hr
> if you were going on a 1000Nm trip?
>
> Do the math and sure, the fuel burn may be much higher
> on the $75/hr plane, but the cost of the flight will
> be identical, and you'll get there over 3 hours quicker.
>
> Sure, you can get some slight economies by pulling the power
> back...Van's charts show the range increase as you
> reduce to lower % of power, but, is it really that big
> of a difference in the big scheme of things? I myself
> would rather get there before the kids get whiny, and
> pay the extra couple bucks.
>
> As for Randy's performance numbers, I'm not at all
> concerned what the fuel flow is at 125kts. I'd
> be much more interested to know what it flows
> at 165, 175, and 185Kts.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>>That's actually not very great news, 10.5 @ 125. Is this typical? I
used
>>to do 12 @ 135 in the 182. I was hoping for better.
>>
>>John Jessen
>> (riveting the VS and rudder)
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
DeBauw
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:04 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Well I am in the final phase of painting the wheel pants. It is time
for
>>another oil change. The oxy bottle will get purchased and hopefully
>>installed before Osh. The carpet is going in soon.
>>
>>I don't have enough time with the wheel pants on to get some true
numbers
>>but Osh is coming up and should have some real numbers on a long trip
like
>>that. I appears that if you pull back on the power at you can get
about
>>10.5 gal an hour at 125 kts.
>>I still carry about 50 lbs in the baggage area when 2 up and pull it
with
>
> 4.
>
>>It really handles 4 people well. In fact I prefer 4 people.
>>Myself, full fuel and 50 lbs in the back is fine. More trim and hold
some
>>back pressure for the flare. Keep the speed up. Full flaps on all
>
> landings
>
>>seems to work best. Slower speed at touch down. The tires look great.
>
> Almost
>
>>no wear at 42 hours. Everyone that has ridden says how quiet it is. I
>
> have
>
>>the single mufflers system. Even people standing next to it when I had
the
>>prop balanced said it was quite and that was running at 2300 RPM for
10
>>seconds or so. The prop balance was a big help. I could feel it in the
>>rudder peddles before. Can't wait to get to Osh. With it but I have a
lot
>
> of
>
>>work to still do in 1 weekend and a few weeknights. After Osh. It will
be
>>almost done and I can get back to that
>>lawn. Where was that mower? I saw it 21 months ago.... Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
Stephens
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 11:10 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Hey Randy, any more little tidbits of interesting info since the
flyoff?
>>Just wondering how things are going. Hope you are having a blast!
>>
>>I just need a little "builder boost". :)
>>
>>-Sean #40303 nearing end of flaps
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
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>
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>
>
>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
I'm interested as well. Please include me in your off list discussion...
John Jessen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I would love some more details (you can e-mail me off the list) of your
system.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
Tim,
I have a 12" touch screen on the co-pilot side that will connect to a laptop
stored on the right forward sidewall. Movies for the co-pilot, approach
plates and taxi diagrams for the pilot at the touch of a finger. The screen
will be switchable to the Blue Mountain EFIS display on the pilot's side.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I LOVE the nitrous idea....I suppose I could always give them extra
dramamine. ;) I'm planning to put in rear seat movies,
but as a post-flying install. I definitely see your point
about the stops. Usually I can keep the stops with the kids to under 30
minutes, but it does add to the trip. I didn't care in the past because on
a 1000 mile trip, I wanted to land and get a weather radar picture, but, now
I'll have that in my cockpit.....so I may as well keep the range up and move
along.
Hey, post a shot or two of your trim system...would be interesting to all.
Definitely look me up at OSH...can't wait to see your -10!
Tim
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> One of the big issues for us on fuel burn vs. flight time is whether
or not
> you will have to make a stop. If you are going 1,000 miles (yes, I am
> talking statue number as always, sorry), it would be better to back it
off
> to wherever it is required to make it non-stop. Descending and buying
fuel,
> and getting back in for another hour or two actually adds about and
hour or
> two to the flight and might add more whining to the kids. You know, a
> little bit of nitros-oxide added to the rear seat passengers' oxygen
would
> take care of most of the whining, but then I guess you are increasing
your
> cost again. OH YEAH, invest in a DVD player and they can sit forever,
> right?
>
> IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE USE!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>
>
> Keep it in perspective though......my Sundowner does 9-9.5 @
> 110-112 Kts. Who really cares what the fuel flow is when
> you pull it way back that far. Fuel flow is directly related to
> speed...and speed is distance and time.
>
> For instance, would you rather rent a plane for $50/hr that goes
> 100kts, or one that goes 150Kts for $75/hr if you were going on a
> 1000Nm trip?
>
> Do the math and sure, the fuel burn may be much higher on the $75/hr
> plane, but the cost of the flight will be identical, and you'll get
> there over 3 hours quicker.
>
> Sure, you can get some slight economies by pulling the power
> back...Van's charts show the range increase as you reduce to lower %
> of power, but, is it really that big of a difference in the big scheme
> of things? I myself would rather get there before the kids get whiny,
> and pay the extra couple bucks.
>
> As for Randy's performance numbers, I'm not at all concerned what the
> fuel flow is at 125kts. I'd be much more interested to know what it
> flows at 165, 175, and 185Kts.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>>That's actually not very great news, 10.5 @ 125. Is this typical? I
used
>>to do 12 @ 135 in the 182. I was hoping for better.
>>
>>John Jessen
>> (riveting the VS and rudder)
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
DeBauw
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:04 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Well I am in the final phase of painting the wheel pants. It is time
for
>>another oil change. The oxy bottle will get purchased and hopefully
>>installed before Osh. The carpet is going in soon.
>>
>>I don't have enough time with the wheel pants on to get some true
numbers
>>but Osh is coming up and should have some real numbers on a long trip
like
>>that. I appears that if you pull back on the power at you can get
about
>>10.5 gal an hour at 125 kts.
>>I still carry about 50 lbs in the baggage area when 2 up and pull it
with
>
> 4.
>
>>It really handles 4 people well. In fact I prefer 4 people.
>>Myself, full fuel and 50 lbs in the back is fine. More trim and hold
some
>>back pressure for the flare. Keep the speed up. Full flaps on all
>
> landings
>
>>seems to work best. Slower speed at touch down. The tires look great.
>
> Almost
>
>>no wear at 42 hours. Everyone that has ridden says how quiet it is. I
>
> have
>
>>the single mufflers system. Even people standing next to it when I had
the
>>prop balanced said it was quite and that was running at 2300 RPM for
10
>>seconds or so. The prop balance was a big help. I could feel it in the
>>rudder peddles before. Can't wait to get to Osh. With it but I have a
lot
>
> of
>
>>work to still do in 1 weekend and a few weeknights. After Osh. It will
be
>>almost done and I can get back to that
>>lawn. Where was that mower? I saw it 21 months ago.... Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
Stephens
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 11:10 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Hey Randy, any more little tidbits of interesting info since the
flyoff?
>>Just wondering how things are going. Hope you are having a blast!
>>
>>I just need a little "builder boost". :)
>>
>>-Sean #40303 nearing end of flaps
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I will be there Wednesday night through Sunday.
Here is my picture.
OK, the first one was a joke, but the second was one of my favorite
shots with Jimmy Franklin. I can't believe he won't be at Oshkosh.
That just really sucks! This was from Reno in 2000.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdalton77
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oshkosh bound
I will be there Fri-Sun (29-31st). Would love to meet some you guys.
Mug shot attached.
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Oshkosh bound
I will be there for most of the show mug shot included will have some
with the RV-10 soon.
Noel RV-10 40091 paint
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oshkosh bound
Thursday would be a better night for me to get out for a dinner.
Count me in.
Mugshot is attached. I will have to be wearing a hat at the show
(Reason should be obvious!). I will be wandering around the avionics
and engine booths looking for stuff to put in the bird. Love to meet
any and all. Looking for a cure for this "Disease". Don't think there
is one. Oh Well!
I will be over at Van's booth at the time suggested by Tim.
Thanks, Tim for setting up the web page. Really useful!
Can't wait!
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
N312F Reserved
Jim Combs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: N610RV News? |
Me too....
if we have a quorum... maybe we should keep it on list?
James
John Jessen wrote:
>
>I'm interested as well. Please include me in your off list discussion...
>
>John Jessen
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
>Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 2:50 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>
>
>I would love some more details (you can e-mail me off the list) of your
>system.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>W: 352-465-4545
>C: 352-427-0285
>F: 815-377-3694
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
>Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2005 8:46 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>
>
>Tim,
>
>I have a 12" touch screen on the co-pilot side that will connect to a laptop
>stored on the right forward sidewall. Movies for the co-pilot, approach
>plates and taxi diagrams for the pilot at the touch of a finger. The screen
>will be switchable to the Blue Mountain EFIS display on the pilot's side.
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>office: 703-414-6141
> cell: 571-215-6134
>
>
>
--
There is an art . . . to flying. The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself
at the ground and miss. Douglas Adams, 'The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy'
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Cable Attach |
I used his trim system on the Glasair III and it has worked well for 15
years. I was planning to get some for the RV10 as I was happy with
them.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
I don't have the info with me. I am actually near Oshkosh right now and
will be until the show (home is Florida). I will try to get the guy's
information at the show or after the show I can look it up at home for
those of you who won't be going to the show. We don't know how well
they will hold up, but we will let you know if something happens to
them.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
Good morning Jessie can I have a web page or phone number of that trim
manufacturer you mention,I use them in our boats ,and the Ray Allen
where very scary when we dissy, for repair and thinks your life hang
from these oversize remote control planes servos. Thanks,Hugo
>
> From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
> Date: 2005/07/13 Wed PM 11:26:29 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
>
>
> I will look for a link. The guy is always at Sun-N-Fun with a little
cheesy
> display and sometimes wears a hat with a little propeller on top. Not
very
> impressive display, but the trim is STC'd for a lot of different
> aircraft. All metal gears. Stop by and see N256H in the Home
> Builder's Parking area and you can see the installation (they haven't
> been finished up, but they are installed and working).
>
> Also, the Infinity control stick is awesome. I think they are at
> www.infinityaerospace.com and they will surely be at Oshkosh (a
450ish-pound
> guy with a control yoke and a throttle quadrant on the table at the
> front
of
> the booth).
>
> See ya'll at the show.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 7:46 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Cable Attach
>
>
> Jesse,
>
> Can you provide link or contact info for this?
>
> Rick S.
> N246RS
> 40185
> Da Wings...waiting on Da Fuse...Sorry, in Chicago this week and next.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I now have some good stats for a cross-country flight in an RV-10 with gear
fairings and wheel pants. For those who are keeping track, these numbers
are true airspeed as indicated both on the Dynon EFIS and a normal True
Airspeed indicator (steam gauge). We did not do any 4-way averaging because
the route to WI was direct with no 360 degree turns in the flight plan. The
flight that these numbers are from was from Birmingham, AL to Appleton, WI.
I think that was about 760 statute miles. Flying at 14,500 msl burning 8.5
gph cruising at around 190-200 mph with headwinds averaging 15-20 mph the
flight lasted about 4 hours and 45 minutes total.
Now that's some cross-country flying. I got the pleasure of driving 8 hours
/ day for 3 days and these guys get in the RV-10 (oh yeah, did I mention
that they were flying full gross - at take-off, of course) and make the
entire flight from FL (X35) in 7 hours with a stop in Birmingham taking them
out of the way a little.
N256H #40241
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
How about we have the discussion on here, because I am interested also,
and have been looking at tablets, 17" touch screens, and virtual
keyboards. The key board is projected on a flat surface and it detects
your finger movements, so there is no need for an actual keyboard, also
there is roll up/ foldable indestructible keyboards we use in
manufacturing, that are impervious to spills, with our combined efforts
we might be able to come up with a god solution
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I'm interested as well. Please include me in your off list
discussion...
John Jessen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I would love some more details (you can e-mail me off the list) of your
system.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
Tim,
I have a 12" touch screen on the co-pilot side that will connect to a
laptop
stored on the right forward sidewall. Movies for the co-pilot, approach
plates and taxi diagrams for the pilot at the touch of a finger. The
screen
will be switchable to the Blue Mountain EFIS display on the pilot's
side.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
I LOVE the nitrous idea....I suppose I could always give them extra
dramamine. ;) I'm planning to put in rear seat movies,
but as a post-flying install. I definitely see your point
about the stops. Usually I can keep the stops with the kids to under 30
minutes, but it does add to the trip. I didn't care in the past because
on
a 1000 mile trip, I wanted to land and get a weather radar picture, but,
now
I'll have that in my cockpit.....so I may as well keep the range up and
move
along.
Hey, post a shot or two of your trim system...would be interesting to
all.
Definitely look me up at OSH...can't wait to see your -10!
Tim
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> One of the big issues for us on fuel burn vs. flight time is whether
or not
> you will have to make a stop. If you are going 1,000 miles (yes, I am
> talking statue number as always, sorry), it would be better to back it
off
> to wherever it is required to make it non-stop. Descending and buying
fuel,
> and getting back in for another hour or two actually adds about and
hour or
> two to the flight and might add more whining to the kids. You know, a
> little bit of nitros-oxide added to the rear seat passengers' oxygen
would
> take care of most of the whining, but then I guess you are increasing
your
> cost again. OH YEAH, invest in a DVD player and they can sit forever,
> right?
>
> IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE USE!
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 4:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>
>
> Keep it in perspective though......my Sundowner does 9-9.5 @
> 110-112 Kts. Who really cares what the fuel flow is when
> you pull it way back that far. Fuel flow is directly related to
> speed...and speed is distance and time.
>
> For instance, would you rather rent a plane for $50/hr that goes
> 100kts, or one that goes 150Kts for $75/hr if you were going on a
> 1000Nm trip?
>
> Do the math and sure, the fuel burn may be much higher on the $75/hr
> plane, but the cost of the flight will be identical, and you'll get
> there over 3 hours quicker.
>
> Sure, you can get some slight economies by pulling the power
> back...Van's charts show the range increase as you reduce to lower %
> of power, but, is it really that big of a difference in the big scheme
> of things? I myself would rather get there before the kids get whiny,
> and pay the extra couple bucks.
>
> As for Randy's performance numbers, I'm not at all concerned what the
> fuel flow is at 125kts. I'd be much more interested to know what it
> flows at 165, 175, and 185Kts.
>
> Tim
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>>That's actually not very great news, 10.5 @ 125. Is this typical? I
used
>>to do 12 @ 135 in the 182. I was hoping for better.
>>
>>John Jessen
>> (riveting the VS and rudder)
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy
DeBauw
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 12:04 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Well I am in the final phase of painting the wheel pants. It is time
for
>>another oil change. The oxy bottle will get purchased and hopefully
>>installed before Osh. The carpet is going in soon.
>>
>>I don't have enough time with the wheel pants on to get some true
numbers
>>but Osh is coming up and should have some real numbers on a long trip
like
>>that. I appears that if you pull back on the power at you can get
about
>>10.5 gal an hour at 125 kts.
>>I still carry about 50 lbs in the baggage area when 2 up and pull it
with
>
> 4.
>
>>It really handles 4 people well. In fact I prefer 4 people.
>>Myself, full fuel and 50 lbs in the back is fine. More trim and hold
some
>>back pressure for the flare. Keep the speed up. Full flaps on all
>
> landings
>
>>seems to work best. Slower speed at touch down. The tires look great.
>
> Almost
>
>>no wear at 42 hours. Everyone that has ridden says how quiet it is. I
>
> have
>
>>the single mufflers system. Even people standing next to it when I had
the
>>prop balanced said it was quite and that was running at 2300 RPM for
10
>>seconds or so. The prop balance was a big help. I could feel it in the
>>rudder peddles before. Can't wait to get to Osh. With it but I have a
lot
>
> of
>
>>work to still do in 1 weekend and a few weeknights. After Osh. It will
be
>>almost done and I can get back to that
>>lawn. Where was that mower? I saw it 21 months ago.... Randy
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean
Stephens
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2005 11:10 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: N610RV News?
>>
>>
>>Hey Randy, any more little tidbits of interesting info since the
flyoff?
>>Just wondering how things are going. Hope you are having a blast!
>>
>>I just need a little "builder boost". :)
>>
>>-Sean #40303 nearing end of flaps
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
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Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been building
for about a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's the
dumbest question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a
skin when assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do
the horizontal stab, and I'm wondering if that's overkill. When I look
at pictures of other people building, it seems as though not every hole
needs to be clecoed during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc.
opinions are appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | new builder - first time poster |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
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0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been building
for about a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's the
dumbest question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a
skin when assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do
the horizontal stab, and I'm wondering if that's overkill. When I look
at pictures of other people building, it seems as though not every hole
needs to be clecoed during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc.
opinions are appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | new builder - first time poster |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Chris,
You just need enough clecos to hold things in alignment while match
drilling and final assembly. For panels and parts with a lot of flat
section you'll see clecos spaced with 4-5 holes between, on parts like
the airfoil leading edges or other with curves you'll find that you
might actually need them in every hole along the curve - especially when
match drilling. After skins are dimpled you'll find that the dimples
will help with part alignment. You will need a LOT of clecos though for
the tailcone and wings!
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Subject: RV10-List: new builder - first time poster
Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been building
for about a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's the
dumbest question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a
skin when assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do
the horizontal stab, and I'm wondering if that's overkill. When I look
at pictures of other people building, it seems as though not every hole
needs to be clecoed during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc.
opinions are appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Probably don't quite get the award for the dumbest question...I myself
have come close to getting that one at times. ;)
Your 1000 extra will be overkill. You need about 750 total
to comfortably do the tailcone. Probably a tiny *tiny* bit
less for the wings, but 750 would be great there. Once
you finish the wings and tail, I can't give advice on a slowbuild
fuselage, but on a QB, you hardly need any more 3/32 clecos.
I'm assuming this whole conversation is only the silver 3/32"
clecos....these numbers are NOT for the copper ones...1/8".
You sometimes will have times that the plans call for clecoing
every hole. But, most of the time, every 2nd or 3rd hole will
be fine. Just try to look at what you're doing and judge how
far it can get out of line if you don't put them all in.
In *almost* every case, every other hole would be the most
you need.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
Chris Johnston wrote:
> Hey all
>
> My name is Chris Johnston and Im a new RV-10 builder. Been building
> for about a month, and currently working on elevators. Heres the
> dumbest question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a
> skin when assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do
> the horizontal stab, and Im wondering if thats overkill. When I look
> at pictures of other people building, it seems as though not every hole
> needs to be clecoed during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc.
> opinions are appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks all
>
> cj
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
CJ,
I am sure different builders do it different ways. We would cleco every
hole only on places where the parts would tend to wander (when there is a
bend or it is under tension or doesn't seem to fit really well to start
with). On straight flat sections we would use a cleco every 3rd or 4th
hole, depending on how well they held together. Then we would drill all the
open holes and move the clecos down or over one hole (to remember which
holes had not been drilled) and drill the remaining holes. For riveting, we
did it the same way. In fact we used fewer clecos for riveting than for
drilling sometimes. I am sure some on the list will criticize this
practice, but it worked and we are flying. The purpose for clecos are to
hold the parts in place so you can get them drilled and lined up and all
that good stuff. If the rivets fit in the holes and the plane flies, then I
guess the practice was acceptable. On some issues this litmus test would
not work, like bolt torque and stuff like that, which may appear fine at
first and end up causing problems as they "worked" for a while.
Have fun!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Subject: RV10-List:
Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been building for
about a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's the dumbest
question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a skin when
assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do the horizontal
stab, and I'm wondering if that's overkill. When I look at pictures of
other people building, it seems as though not every hole needs to be clecoed
during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc. opinions are
appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new builder - first time poster |
Chris,
At most normally you Cleco every other hole so that
some holes are open to match drill. Use enough Clecos
that your assembly is held together sufficiently that
you can "handle" it while drilling. I typically Cleco
every other to every third hole depending on the
thickness of the parts and how well the holes are
lined up. There are places like the HS nose ribs where
I Clecoed 3-4 in a row then removed one Cleco,
drilled, replaced Cleco then repeat on the next hole.
The same process for riveting.
In a nutshell use what it takes to hold the assembly
together and line up all the holes.
Steve 40212 wings
--- Chris Johnston wrote:
> Hey all -
> My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10
> builder. Been building
> for about a month, and currently working on
> elevators. Here's the
> dumbest question of the month. Does everybody cleco
> EVERY hole in a
> skin when assembling? I ended up buying 1000
> additional clecos to do
> the horizontal stab, and I'm wondering if that's
> overkill. When I look
> at pictures of other people building, it seems as
> though not every hole
> needs to be clecoed during pre assembly, or during
> match drilling etc.
> opinions are appreciated.
>
> Thanks all
> cj
>
>
__________________________________
Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
Dear Chris:
I am also a first time builder. I currently have my fuselage on the gear.
On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and match drill. I clecoed every
other hole, match drilled the vacant holes and the switched the cleco's.
After getting through the HS I decided that match drilling was a waste of time.
I actually misdrilled some holes in small rib ears because the cleco pushed
the ear away and I did not know it because it was down inside where I couldn't
see it until after I took the parts apart.
Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts. I prefer the reamer to the
drill bit. I then deburred the hole, and deburred the edges. Dimpled where necessary,
primed the parts and put them together with clecos for the very first
time, ready to rivet.
I found that the clecos went in much better where the parts were reamed before
clecoing and did not push any of the ears back like I had done in the past.
The CAD parts machine has made the parts go together without a hitch so far.
Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved loads of time but it has also
produced fewer double holes in rib ears. It is easy to tell if the rib ear
has been caught by the cleco during riveting because even down deep in the part
you are reaching your hand donw inside with the bucking bar to buck anyway.
On the few times that I have not caught the rib ear and was ready to rivet,
it was easy to push the rib ear in place and work the rivet into the hole even
though the parts had not been mached drilled.
On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer though the holes after putting
the parts together, where I had not match drilled, but then again back when I
was match drilling I had to do that as well.
Good luck on your project.
Russ Daves
N710 RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Johnston
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 11:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List:
Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been building for about
a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's the dumbest question of
the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a skin when assembling? I ended
up buying 1000 additional clecos to do the horizontal stab, and I'm wondering
if that's overkill. When I look at pictures of other people building, it
seems as though not every hole needs to be clecoed during pre assembly, or during
match drilling etc. opinions are appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | new builder - first time poster |
CJ. The purpose of the clecos is, in part, to hold things in rigid
alignment so you can (take your pick) measure, mark, drill, rivet, take
pictures... So you need to determine what level of holding power you need,
and that depends on the thing being worked on. Rule of thumb, however, is
to have the hole you are working on surrounded by clecos or some strong
force that assures your piece stays put while you do your thing. On the
-10, which is so nicely prepunched and aligned, I typically use every other
hole when match drilling and riveting, unless I believe that I need to
assure myself that all those parts that might be under tension and thus
might not be aligned correctly because of that, are secured, such as curved
skin to rib matching.
It's great to hear that after only a month you are on your elevators! If
you are clecoing every hole and are making that kind of time, who cares.
Cleco away!
John Jessen
(behind CJ, but enjoying the ride)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Subject: RV10-List: new builder - first time poster
Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been building for
about a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's the dumbest
question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a skin when
assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do the horizontal
stab, and I'm wondering if that's overkill. When I look at pictures of
other people building, it seems as though not every hole needs to be clecoed
during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc. opinions are
appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
0.03 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_HTML BODY: HTML contains text after HTML close tag
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
Wow. I've really been wasting time. Well, better to find out now than
later. My girlfriend and I have been teaming up on the build, and we
would cleco EVERY hole during pre assembly. She'd then pull the clecos
one at a time, I'd drill, then she'd replace it and move to the next
one. Then we'd break it all down, prime etc, then re-assemble with a
cleco in every hole again. Then she'd remove the clecos one at a time
while I rivet. Whoa - I'm discovering just what a colossal waste of
time it has been. Oh well. I guess the build will go a lot quicker from
here on out. Thanks for all the input everybody. I REALLY appreciate
it.
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy's Abros mail" <randy(at)abros.com> |
| Subject: | New numbers from N610RV |
I trip yesterday. East bound 168kt at 9500ft. Full throttle (about 21.3
mp) and 2300 rpm. 14.5 gph. 100 deg rich of peek.
West bound 172 kts same mp and rpm but without front wheel pant ( make sure
you have at least 3/4 of an inch clearence on the tire). I didn't and it
caught the rear edge of the wheel pant and cracked it. That is why I have
been flying it without painted wheel pants. Easy fix now, tough later with
paint. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I have to say that I like this idea. On some parts where you need to match
drill, this obviously won't work, but it is true that the holes are so well
aligned that you can just ream the holes before putting them together and
save a TON of time. You add a measure of risk, but if you get it clecoed
together and ready to rivet and you notice something is not right, you can
just take that part off or whatever is needed to make it work. I have to
admit that it is a little discouraging to get a whole section together with
clecos only to have to take it apart again. KUDOS to you Russell for going
where we didn't try to go.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List:
Dear Chris:
I am also a first time builder. I currently have my fuselage on the gear.
On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and match drill. I clecoed
every other hole, match drilled the vacant holes and the switched the
cleco's.
After getting through the HS I decided that match drilling was a waste of
time. I actually misdrilled some holes in small rib ears because the cleco
pushed the ear away and I did not know it because it was down inside where I
couldn't see it until after I took the parts apart.
Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts. I prefer the reamer to
the drill bit. I then deburred the hole, and deburred the edges. Dimpled
where necessary, primed the parts and put them together with clecos for the
very first time, ready to rivet.
I found that the clecos went in much better where the parts were reamed
before clecoing and did not push any of the ears back like I had done in the
past. The CAD parts machine has made the parts go together without a hitch
so far.
Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved loads of time but it
has also produced fewer double holes in rib ears. It is easy to tell if the
rib ear has been caught by the cleco during riveting because even down deep
in the part you are reaching your hand donw inside with the bucking bar to
buck anyway. On the few times that I have not caught the rib ear and was
ready to rivet, it was easy to push the rib ear in place and work the rivet
into the hole even though the parts had not been mached drilled.
On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer though the holes after
putting the parts together, where I had not match drilled, but then again
back when I was match drilling I had to do that as well.
Good luck on your project.
Russ Daves
N710 RV (Reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris <mailto:CJohnston(at)popsound.com> Johnston
Subject: RV10-List:
Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been building for
about a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's the dumbest
question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a skin when
assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do the horizontal
stab, and I'm wondering if that's overkill. When I look at pictures of
other people building, it seems as though not every hole needs to be clecoed
during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc. opinions are
appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | new builder - first time poster |
I used every 4th hole on the wings going from wing root out and every
other hole for and aft. Randy
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: new builder - first time poster
CJ. The purpose of the clecos is, in part, to hold things in rigid
alignment so you can (take your pick) measure, mark, drill, rivet, take
pictures... So you need to determine what level of holding power you
need, and that depends on the thing being worked on. Rule of thumb,
however, is to have the hole you are working on surrounded by clecos or
some strong force that assures your piece stays put while you do your
thing. On the -10, which is so nicely prepunched and aligned, I
typically use every other hole when match drilling and riveting, unless
I believe that I need to assure myself that all those parts that might
be under tension and thus might not be aligned correctly because of
that, are secured, such as curved skin to rib matching.
It's great to hear that after only a month you are on your elevators!
If you are clecoing every hole and are making that kind of time, who
cares. Cleco away!
John Jessen
(behind CJ, but enjoying the ride)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 9:53 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: new builder - first time poster
=09
=09
Hey all -
My name is Chris Johnston and I'm a new RV-10 builder. Been
building for about a month, and currently working on elevators. Here's
the dumbest question of the month. Does everybody cleco EVERY hole in a
skin when assembling? I ended up buying 1000 additional clecos to do
the horizontal stab, and I'm wondering if that's overkill. When I look
at pictures of other people building, it seems as though not every hole
needs to be clecoed during pre assembly, or during match drilling etc.
opinions are appreciated.
Thanks all
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: no match drill |
Russ,
Last year when I was riveting the half ribs on the
bottom elevator skin I went off the edge of the back
rivet plate on the last rivet of a rib. It put a 1/2"
long crack in the skin. I bought a new skin and rib to
replace the damaged parts. All of the parts the new
skin mated to were now already drilled and dimpled.
with this in mind I decided that it would be difficult
or impossible to cleco a new skin to ribs and spars
that were already drilled and dimpled. I simply
drilled the rivet holes on the replacement skin to the
correct size then deburred and dimpled. There is
absolutely NO difference between the fit and finish of
that elevator and the other elevator that was
constructed with the conventional "match drill"
technique. At that time I was tempted to skip the
"match drill" step and do as you have been doing. I
decided to play it safe.
How much of your project have you done this way? Have
you had ANY issues of miss-alignment/whatever due to
not "match drilling"?
Is any one else out there doing this?
Steve 40212 Wings (all match drilled)
--- Russell Daves wrote:
> Dear Chris:
>
> I am also a first time builder. I currently have my
> fuselage on the gear.
>
> On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and
> match drill. I clecoed every other hole, match
> drilled the vacant holes and the switched the
> cleco's.
>
> After getting through the HS I decided that match
> drilling was a waste of time. I actually misdrilled
> some holes in small rib ears because the cleco
> pushed the ear away and I did not know it because it
> was down inside where I couldn't see it until after
> I took the parts apart.
>
> Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts.
> I prefer the reamer to the drill bit. I then
> deburred the hole, and deburred the edges. Dimpled
> where necessary, primed the parts and put them
> together with clecos for the very first time, ready
> to rivet.
>
> I found that the clecos went in much better where
> the parts were reamed before clecoing and did not
> push any of the ears back like I had done in the
> past. The CAD parts machine has made the parts go
> together without a hitch so far.
>
> Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved
> loads of time but it has also produced fewer double
> holes in rib ears. It is easy to tell if the rib
> ear has been caught by the cleco during riveting
> because even down deep in the part you are reaching
> your hand donw inside with the bucking bar to buck
> anyway. On the few times that I have not caught the
> rib ear and was ready to rivet, it was easy to push
> the rib ear in place and work the rivet into the
> hole even though the parts had not been mached
> drilled.
>
> On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer
> though the holes after putting the parts together,
> where I had not match drilled, but then again back
> when I was match drilling I had to do that as well.
>
> Good luck on your project.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710 RV (Reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cessna Split master dimensions |
Tim
My panels measure .705 wide x 1.275" high
Rob Hickman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
0.03 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_HTML BODY": rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Just saw this in an email from Kitplanes on the next issue....
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS
Engine Components Incorporated (ECI) and Lycoming prepare to drop big news on the
AirVenture crowd. Remember that you read it here first!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Buhwana <buhwana(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 37 Msgs - 07/14/05 |
0.03 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_HTML BODY: HTML contains text after HTML close tag
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
Also don't forget "Art and Arties" or something close to that which
is between the airport and the Lake. Girls on rollerskates bring you
your food! Could this be th place you are referring to or are there two?
tom RV-10 lurker
On Jul 15, 2005, at 1:57 AM, RV10-List Digest Server wrote:
> Sounds good to me. Too bad we don't have more transportation, one
> of the best
> drive in's around (and supposedly what Happy Days was based on) is
> on the opposite
> end of town. It's a place called Leon's. Haven't been there in
> probably
> 10 years but I drove past there a couple weeks ago and it's still
> there. Wasn't
> sure as Oshkosh is undergoing a "revitalization" and a lot of old
> places
> (like Field's Ice Cream) are gone. Freaky how I lived in OSH for
> several years
> when I was going to school there and now it seems a little foreign.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ice Cream Social Date and Times |
| From: | "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Mike has the times down for the Ice Cream Social. Sorry to anyone that
this leaves out....I'm sure you understand that it's just impossible to
get everyone unless you have one every day.
Tuesday and Friday at 6:00pm at the Cleaveland Aircraft Tools.
Outdoor exhibit #125 between buildings A & C toward the fly
market. Randy's RV-10 will be a hundred feet up the hill from
the booth!
(I'll try to put this on a map if I can come up with one)
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cessna Split master dimensions |
| From: | "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Awesome Rob, thanks!! That's easy enough to draw.
Just a rectangle I presume, and no special other
holes.
Tim
> Tim
>
> My panels measure .705 wide x 1.275" high
>
> Rob Hickman
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Oh no! Not the reamer versus drilling war! Reamers carry the same designation
as drill bits and look a lot like one. The only differences are that they
only work on holes that are close to final size and they are generally accepted
to make a more accurately round hole. Man my grammer is shot for the week.
The Unibit, also known as a step drill, is a bit of a cross between a drill bit
and a reamer. Everyone that I have ever talked to will swear by their reamers.
Quite frankly I don't really know why I don't use them. And yes, I believe,
a chucking reamer is what you want.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reamers
Ok, I'll ask the question now since I wondered about this since seeing reamers
in the tool catalogs.
First, Do you buy a chucking reamer? Does it operate just like a drill bit? Is
is a number 40/30? (I ask because I read where someone was using them exclusivly
to match drill and I think is was a number 41 or something). The idea is sound
and I can relate to the ear holes getting missed although I eliminated this
by lining up the holes with an awl on those situations. FWIW EVERY one of my
holes has lined up to date and others say the same for the fuselage. What say
you Russ? (O'Reily question)
Rick S.
40185
Wings.....6000 holes too late for this tip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS |
I had just read the same note from Kitplanes. Anyone have any more info?
I guess that is why they call the messages teasers.
Byron
More dimpling on the fuselage #40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS
Just saw this in an email from Kitplanes on the next issue....
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS
Engine Components Incorporated (ECI) and Lycoming prepare to drop big
news on the AirVenture crowd. Remember that you read it here first!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: no match drill |
Steve
I have had NO problems with misalignment. The only problems I have run into
since stopping match drilling has been as set out below that "On a very few
occussions I had to run the reamer though the holes after putting the parts
together where I had not match drilled, but then again back when I was match
drilling I had to do that as well."
As far as how much of the project I have done this way I would say about 50%
and still increasing the precentage. I would guess that by the time I reach
the completation of my RV-10 it will be close to 65% not match drilled.
From my experiences I can tell you that if I every build an RV again I will
not match drill anything.
Russ Daves
#40044 (Fuselage on main gear)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
>
> Russ,
> Last year when I was riveting the half ribs on the
> bottom elevator skin I went off the edge of the back
> rivet plate on the last rivet of a rib. It put a 1/2"
> long crack in the skin. I bought a new skin and rib to
> replace the damaged parts. All of the parts the new
> skin mated to were now already drilled and dimpled.
> with this in mind I decided that it would be difficult
> or impossible to cleco a new skin to ribs and spars
> that were already drilled and dimpled. I simply
> drilled the rivet holes on the replacement skin to the
> correct size then deburred and dimpled. There is
> absolutely NO difference between the fit and finish of
> that elevator and the other elevator that was
> constructed with the conventional "match drill"
> technique. At that time I was tempted to skip the
> "match drill" step and do as you have been doing. I
> decided to play it safe.
>
> How much of your project have you done this way? Have
> you had ANY issues of miss-alignment/whatever due to
> not "match drilling"?
>
> Is any one else out there doing this?
>
> Steve 40212 Wings (all match drilled)
>
> --- Russell Daves wrote:
>
>> Dear Chris:
>>
>> I am also a first time builder. I currently have my
>> fuselage on the gear.
>>
>> On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and
>> match drill. I clecoed every other hole, match
>> drilled the vacant holes and the switched the
>> cleco's.
>>
>> After getting through the HS I decided that match
>> drilling was a waste of time. I actually misdrilled
>> some holes in small rib ears because the cleco
>> pushed the ear away and I did not know it because it
>> was down inside where I couldn't see it until after
>> I took the parts apart.
>>
>> Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts.
>> I prefer the reamer to the drill bit. I then
>> deburred the hole, and deburred the edges. Dimpled
>> where necessary, primed the parts and put them
>> together with clecos for the very first time, ready
>> to rivet.
>>
>> I found that the clecos went in much better where
>> the parts were reamed before clecoing and did not
>> push any of the ears back like I had done in the
>> past. The CAD parts machine has made the parts go
>> together without a hitch so far.
>>
>> Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved
>> loads of time but it has also produced fewer double
>> holes in rib ears. It is easy to tell if the rib
>> ear has been caught by the cleco during riveting
>> because even down deep in the part you are reaching
>> your hand donw inside with the bucking bar to buck
>> anyway. On the few times that I have not caught the
>> rib ear and was ready to rivet, it was easy to push
>> the rib ear in place and work the rivet into the
>> hole even though the parts had not been mached
>> drilled.
>>
>> On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer
>> though the holes after putting the parts together,
>> where I had not match drilled, but then again back
>> when I was match drilling I had to do that as well.
>>
>> Good luck on your project.
>>
>> Russ Daves
>> N710 RV (Reserved)
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
<31986364.1121462542026.JavaMail.root@wamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.n
et>
<31986364.1121462542026.JavaMail.root@wamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
| From: | "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
> since I wondered about this since seeing reamers in the tool catalogs.
> First, Do you buy a chucking reamer? Does it operate just like a drill
> bit?
On these prepunched kits, yes, use them just like a drill bit. You
need a near-sized hole to start with though.
Yes, they'd be #30 and #40 just like the drill bits.
You could try to go slightly undersized if you wanted.
The larger reamers I've used for things like the landing
gear, and that bushing hole on the flap area....those you can
buy in decimal inch sizes.
Is is a number 40/30? (I ask because I read where someone was using
> them exclusivly to match drill and I think is was a number 41 or
> something). The idea is sound and I can relate to the ear holes getting
> missed although I eliminated this by lining up the holes with an awl on
> those situations. FWIW EVERY one of my holes has lined up to date and
> others say the same for the fuselage. What say you Russ? (O'Reily
> question) Rick S. 40185 Wings.....6000 holes too late for this tip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Bryon & Mike, maybe they found a way to recycle those out of spec
Certified IO-540 cranks rendered useless with the July 11th SB 566.
Lycoming said today they have enough New / Improved Cranks to make the
change out in 10 hours per block. Could we actually be getting a kit
(Amateur) built IO-540 with electronic ignition, Thielert roller lifters
and that we can balance all components to 1.5 grams each?
10 days and I'm in Wisconsin.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron
Gillespie
Subject: RE: RV10-List: NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS
I had just read the same note from Kitplanes. Anyone have any more info?
I guess that is why they call the messages teasers...
Byron
More dimpling on the fuselage #40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS
Just saw this in an email from Kitplanes on the next issue....
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
NEW ENGINE OPTIONS FOR BUILDERS
Engine Components Incorporated (ECI) and Lycoming prepare to drop big
news on the AirVenture crowd. Remember that you read it here first!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
So, you use the reamer before clecoing? What about deburring? I'm, as
usual, confused here.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
Steve
I have had NO problems with misalignment. The only problems I have run into
since stopping match drilling has been as set out below that "On a very few
occussions I had to run the reamer though the holes after putting the parts
together where I had not match drilled, but then again back when I was match
drilling I had to do that as well."
As far as how much of the project I have done this way I would say about 50%
and still increasing the precentage. I would guess that by the time I reach
the completation of my RV-10 it will be close to 65% not match drilled.
From my experiences I can tell you that if I every build an RV again I will
not match drill anything.
Russ Daves
#40044 (Fuselage on main gear)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
>
> Russ,
> Last year when I was riveting the half ribs on the
> bottom elevator skin I went off the edge of the back
> rivet plate on the last rivet of a rib. It put a 1/2"
> long crack in the skin. I bought a new skin and rib to
> replace the damaged parts. All of the parts the new
> skin mated to were now already drilled and dimpled.
> with this in mind I decided that it would be difficult
> or impossible to cleco a new skin to ribs and spars
> that were already drilled and dimpled. I simply
> drilled the rivet holes on the replacement skin to the
> correct size then deburred and dimpled. There is
> absolutely NO difference between the fit and finish of
> that elevator and the other elevator that was
> constructed with the conventional "match drill"
> technique. At that time I was tempted to skip the
> "match drill" step and do as you have been doing. I
> decided to play it safe.
>
> How much of your project have you done this way? Have
> you had ANY issues of miss-alignment/whatever due to
> not "match drilling"?
>
> Is any one else out there doing this?
>
> Steve 40212 Wings (all match drilled)
>
> --- Russell Daves wrote:
>
>> Dear Chris:
>>
>> I am also a first time builder. I currently have my
>> fuselage on the gear.
>>
>> On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and
>> match drill. I clecoed every other hole, match
>> drilled the vacant holes and the switched the
>> cleco's.
>>
>> After getting through the HS I decided that match
>> drilling was a waste of time. I actually misdrilled
>> some holes in small rib ears because the cleco
>> pushed the ear away and I did not know it because it
>> was down inside where I couldn't see it until after
>> I took the parts apart.
>>
>> Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts.
>> I prefer the reamer to the drill bit. I then
>> deburred the hole, and deburred the edges. Dimpled
>> where necessary, primed the parts and put them
>> together with clecos for the very first time, ready
>> to rivet.
>>
>> I found that the clecos went in much better where
>> the parts were reamed before clecoing and did not
>> push any of the ears back like I had done in the
>> past. The CAD parts machine has made the parts go
>> together without a hitch so far.
>>
>> Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved
>> loads of time but it has also produced fewer double
>> holes in rib ears. It is easy to tell if the rib
>> ear has been caught by the cleco during riveting
>> because even down deep in the part you are reaching
>> your hand donw inside with the bucking bar to buck
>> anyway. On the few times that I have not caught the
>> rib ear and was ready to rivet, it was easy to push
>> the rib ear in place and work the rivet into the
>> hole even though the parts had not been mached
>> drilled.
>>
>> On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer
>> though the holes after putting the parts together,
>> where I had not match drilled, but then again back
>> when I was match drilling I had to do that as well.
>>
>> Good luck on your project.
>>
>> Russ Daves
>> N710 RV (Reserved)
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
Rick
What I purchased were #40 and #30 Staraight Flute Reamers from Cleaveland Aircraft
Tools. You should give Bob Kaufman $13.50 and have him pick you up one each
at OSH and save shipping.
I will be at OSH but like my trip to Vegas last fall it will be in the C-182.
Next year is the year of the RV-10, maybe for you, Bob K. and me as well.
I will toast you at the OSH Ice Cream Social !!!
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reamers
Ok, I'll ask the question now since I wondered about this since seeing reamers
in the tool catalogs.
First, Do you buy a chucking reamer? Does it operate just like a drill bit? Is
is a number 40/30? (I ask because I read where someone was using them exclusivly
to match drill and I think is was a number 41 or something). The idea is
sound and I can relate to the ear holes getting missed although I eliminated this
by lining up the holes with an awl on those situations. FWIW EVERY one of
my holes has lined up to date and others say the same for the fuselage. What say
you Russ? (O'Reily question)
Rick S.
40185
Wings.....6000 holes too late for this tip.
________________________________________________________________________________
Sausen)"
You would use the reamer in place of a normal drill bit whether or not you match
drill. Drill bits are usually accurate to about 2 thousandths of an inch.
Reamers are more accurate than that and you would need to use a reamer to get
better than 2 thousandths. For us, it's just an alternative way to get the hole
to final size and we don't need that tight of a tolerance. I believe you
usually do not end up with burrs as much as with a drill bit also, but I wouldn't
recommend skipping that step. You can check some out at:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept31
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: no match drill
So, you use the reamer before clecoing? What about deburring? I'm, as
usual, confused here.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
Steve
I have had NO problems with misalignment. The only problems I have run into since
stopping match drilling has been as set out below that "On a very few occussions
I had to run the reamer though the holes after putting the parts together
where I had not match drilled, but then again back when I was match drilling
I had to do that as well."
As far as how much of the project I have done this way I would say about 50% and
still increasing the precentage. I would guess that by the time I reach the
completation of my RV-10 it will be close to 65% not match drilled.
From my experiences I can tell you that if I every build an RV again I will not
match drill anything.
Russ Daves
#40044 (Fuselage on main gear)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
>
> Russ,
> Last year when I was riveting the half ribs on the bottom elevator
> skin I went off the edge of the back rivet plate on the last rivet of
> a rib. It put a 1/2"
> long crack in the skin. I bought a new skin and rib to replace the
> damaged parts. All of the parts the new skin mated to were now already
> drilled and dimpled.
> with this in mind I decided that it would be difficult or impossible
> to cleco a new skin to ribs and spars that were already drilled and
> dimpled. I simply drilled the rivet holes on the replacement skin to
> the correct size then deburred and dimpled. There is absolutely NO
> difference between the fit and finish of that elevator and the other
> elevator that was constructed with the conventional "match drill"
> technique. At that time I was tempted to skip the "match drill" step
> and do as you have been doing. I decided to play it safe.
>
> How much of your project have you done this way? Have you had ANY
> issues of miss-alignment/whatever due to not "match drilling"?
>
> Is any one else out there doing this?
>
> Steve 40212 Wings (all match drilled)
>
> --- Russell Daves wrote:
>
>> Dear Chris:
>>
>> I am also a first time builder. I currently have my fuselage on the
>> gear.
>>
>> On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and match drill. I
>> clecoed every other hole, match drilled the vacant holes and the
>> switched the cleco's.
>>
>> After getting through the HS I decided that match drilling was a
>> waste of time. I actually misdrilled some holes in small rib ears
>> because the cleco pushed the ear away and I did not know it because
>> it was down inside where I couldn't see it until after I took the
>> parts apart.
>>
>> Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts.
>> I prefer the reamer to the drill bit. I then deburred the hole, and
>> deburred the edges. Dimpled where necessary, primed the parts and
>> put them together with clecos for the very first time, ready to
>> rivet.
>>
>> I found that the clecos went in much better where the parts were
>> reamed before clecoing and did not push any of the ears back like I
>> had done in the past. The CAD parts machine has made the parts go
>> together without a hitch so far.
>>
>> Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved loads of time
>> but it has also produced fewer double holes in rib ears. It is easy
>> to tell if the rib ear has been caught by the cleco during riveting
>> because even down deep in the part you are reaching your hand donw
>> inside with the bucking bar to buck anyway. On the few times that I
>> have not caught the rib ear and was ready to rivet, it was easy to
>> push the rib ear in place and work the rivet into the hole even
>> though the parts had not been mached drilled.
>>
>> On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer though the holes
>> after putting the parts together, where I had not match drilled, but
>> then again back when I was match drilling I had to do that as well.
>>
>> Good luck on your project.
>>
>> Russ Daves
>> N710 RV (Reserved)
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <fablef(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Electrical Tools-Wiring Supplies-Harnesses and More |
Hi Everyone,
With Matt Dralle's permission, I wanted to let everyone on the list know that Affordable
Panels has added electrical tools, electrical supplies, wiring harnesses
and more to our inventory. We have some of the lowest prices on everything
from tools, terminals, connectors, wire, electroluminescent lighting, etc.
Our wiring harnesses for all Trutrak Autopilots are available in "Standard" and
"Wing Root Disconnect" form, and we also offer harnesses for the Dynon EFIS,
Flightcom and many others at the very best prices.
Our full page catalog will be out in a couple of weeks. In the mean time, anyone
interested can download the electrical portion of our catalog here.
http://www.affordablepanels.com/electrical.htm
All electrical orders placed on-line or faxed with a total above $175.00 will ship
free via UPS GROUND.
Best Regards,
Fabian Lefler
www.affordablepanels.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
For those NOT able to make it to OSH (I'm sad), here's the first pics
I've seen of the Dynon D100, Dynon's new 7" display...
<http://www.affordablepanels.com/dynon_files/EFIS-D100rev.pdf>
-Sean #40303 (too damn hot in garage this week - 115+)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: no match drill |
RE: RV10-List: no match drillBefore I bought my kit I was told by someone very
close to the RV type of construction, matched holes using a a computer aided punch
machine, that yes you could probably just drill/ream all the holes first
right out of the crate and proceed with final assembly and still have acceptable
alignment. But of course he said he couldn't recommend the practice.
Chris Lucas
#40072 wings -they just won't end
I'll be at OSH Monday to Thursday
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 8:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: no match drill
You would use the reamer in place of a normal drill bit whether or not you match
drill. Drill bits are usually accurate to about 2 thousandths of an inch.
Reamers are more accurate than that and you would need to use a reamer to get
better than 2 thousandths. For us, it's just an alternative way to get the
hole to final size and we don't need that tight of a tolerance. I believe you
usually do not end up with burrs as much as with a drill bit also, but I wouldn't
recommend skipping that step. You can check some out at:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept31
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Emp Assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 5:45 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: no match drill
So, you use the reamer before clecoing? What about deburring? I'm, as
usual, confused here.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 3:30 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
Steve
I have had NO problems with misalignment. The only problems I have run into
since stopping match drilling has been as set out below that "On a very few occussions
I had to run the reamer though the holes after putting the parts together
where I had not match drilled, but then again back when I was match drilling
I had to do that as well."
As far as how much of the project I have done this way I would say about 50%
and still increasing the precentage. I would guess that by the time I reach the
completation of my RV-10 it will be close to 65% not match drilled.
From my experiences I can tell you that if I every build an RV again I will not
match drill anything.
Russ Daves
#40044 (Fuselage on main gear)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
To:
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
>
> Russ,
> Last year when I was riveting the half ribs on the bottom elevator
> skin I went off the edge of the back rivet plate on the last rivet of
> a rib. It put a 1/2"
> long crack in the skin. I bought a new skin and rib to replace the
> damaged parts. All of the parts the new skin mated to were now already
> drilled and dimpled.
> with this in mind I decided that it would be difficult or impossible
> to cleco a new skin to ribs and spars that were already drilled and
> dimpled. I simply drilled the rivet holes on the replacement skin to
> the correct size then deburred and dimpled. There is absolutely NO
> difference between the fit and finish of that elevator and the other
> elevator that was constructed with the conventional "match drill"
> technique. At that time I was tempted to skip the "match drill" step
> and do as you have been doing. I decided to play it safe.
>
> How much of your project have you done this way? Have you had ANY
> issues of miss-alignment/whatever due to not "match drilling"?
>
> Is any one else out there doing this?
>
> Steve 40212 Wings (all match drilled)
>
> --- Russell Daves wrote:
>
>> Dear Chris:
>>
>> I am also a first time builder. I currently have my fuselage on the
>> gear.
>>
>> On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and match drill. I
>> clecoed every other hole, match drilled the vacant holes and the
>> switched the cleco's.
>>
>> After getting through the HS I decided that match drilling was a
>> waste of time. I actually misdrilled some holes in small rib ears
>> because the cleco pushed the ear away and I did not know it because
>> it was down inside where I couldn't see it until after I took the
>> parts apart.
>>
>> Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts.
>> I prefer the reamer to the drill bit. I then deburred the hole, and
>> deburred the edges. Dimpled where necessary, primed the parts and
>> put them together with clecos for the very first time, ready to
>> rivet.
>>
>> I found that the clecos went in much better where the parts were
>> reamed before clecoing and did not push any of the ears back like I
>> had done in the past. The CAD parts machine has made the parts go
>> together without a hitch so far.
>>
>> Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved loads of time
>> but it has also produced fewer double holes in rib ears. It is easy
>> to tell if the rib ear has been caught by the cleco during riveting
>> because even down deep in the part you are reaching your hand donw
>> inside with the bucking bar to buck anyway. On the few times that I
>> have not caught the rib ear and was ready to rivet, it was easy to
>> push the rib ear in place and work the rivet into the hole even
>> though the parts had not been mached drilled.
>>
>> On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer though the holes
>> after putting the parts together, where I had not match drilled, but
>> then again back when I was match drilling I had to do that as well.
>>
>> Good luck on your project.
>>
>> Russ Daves
>> N710 RV (Reserved)
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
<007e01c5898e$fba39410$59d96d44@D43G8741>
Also try mcmaster-carr for reamers/ bits galore. www.mcmaster.com.
For anything really.
I like that place.
Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: Russell Daves
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reamers
Rick
What I purchased were #40 and #30 Staraight Flute Reamers from Cleaveland Aircraft
Tools. You should give Bob Kaufman $13.50 and have him pick you up one
each at OSH and save shipping.
I will be at OSH but like my trip to Vegas last fall it will be in the C-182.
Next year is the year of the RV-10, maybe for you, Bob K. and me as well.
I will toast you at the OSH Ice Cream Social !!!
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reamers
Ok, I'll ask the question now since I wondered about this since seeing reamers
in the tool catalogs.
First, Do you buy a chucking reamer? Does it operate just like a drill bit?
Is is a number 40/30? (I ask because I read where someone was using them exclusivly
to match drill and I think is was a number 41 or something). The idea is
sound and I can relate to the ear holes getting missed although I eliminated
this by lining up the holes with an awl on those situations. FWIW EVERY one of
my holes has lined up to date and others say the same for the fuselage. What
say you Russ? (O'Reily question)
Rick S.
40185
Wings.....6000 holes too late for this tip.
Features Subscriptions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Ice Cream Social Date and Times |
I have heard that folks come to OSH at the very bening of the show than
later, so Tuesday would be good. Who ever came up with an ice cream idea?
Why not Randy's Steak offer? He He!
We can do a dinner too. We will plan - boots on the ground.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Ice Cream Social Date and Times
Mike has the times down for the Ice Cream Social. Sorry to anyone that
this leaves out....I'm sure you understand that it's just impossible to
get everyone unless you have one every day.
Tuesday and Friday at 6:00pm at the Cleaveland Aircraft Tools.
Outdoor exhibit #125 between buildings A & C toward the fly
market. Randy's RV-10 will be a hundred feet up the hill from
the booth!
(I'll try to put this on a map if I can come up with one)
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: no match drill |
Ream, deburr, dimple, cleco, rivet.
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: no match drill
>
> So, you use the reamer before clecoing? What about deburring? I'm, as
> usual, confused here.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 3:30 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
>
>
> Steve
>
> I have had NO problems with misalignment. The only problems I have run
> into
> since stopping match drilling has been as set out below that "On a very
> few
> occussions I had to run the reamer though the holes after putting the
> parts
> together where I had not match drilled, but then again back when I was
> match
> drilling I had to do that as well."
>
> As far as how much of the project I have done this way I would say about
> 50%
> and still increasing the precentage. I would guess that by the time I
> reach
> the completation of my RV-10 it will be close to 65% not match drilled.
>
> From my experiences I can tell you that if I every build an RV again I
> will
> not match drill anything.
>
> Russ Daves
> #40044 (Fuselage on main gear)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 2:40 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
>
>
>>
>> Russ,
>> Last year when I was riveting the half ribs on the
>> bottom elevator skin I went off the edge of the back
>> rivet plate on the last rivet of a rib. It put a 1/2"
>> long crack in the skin. I bought a new skin and rib to
>> replace the damaged parts. All of the parts the new
>> skin mated to were now already drilled and dimpled.
>> with this in mind I decided that it would be difficult
>> or impossible to cleco a new skin to ribs and spars
>> that were already drilled and dimpled. I simply
>> drilled the rivet holes on the replacement skin to the
>> correct size then deburred and dimpled. There is
>> absolutely NO difference between the fit and finish of
>> that elevator and the other elevator that was
>> constructed with the conventional "match drill"
>> technique. At that time I was tempted to skip the
>> "match drill" step and do as you have been doing. I
>> decided to play it safe.
>>
>> How much of your project have you done this way? Have
>> you had ANY issues of miss-alignment/whatever due to
>> not "match drilling"?
>>
>> Is any one else out there doing this?
>>
>> Steve 40212 Wings (all match drilled)
>>
>> --- Russell Daves wrote:
>>
>>> Dear Chris:
>>>
>>> I am also a first time builder. I currently have my
>>> fuselage on the gear.
>>>
>>> On the Emp I followed the instructions to cleco and
>>> match drill. I clecoed every other hole, match
>>> drilled the vacant holes and the switched the
>>> cleco's.
>>>
>>> After getting through the HS I decided that match
>>> drilling was a waste of time. I actually misdrilled
>>> some holes in small rib ears because the cleco
>>> pushed the ear away and I did not know it because it
>>> was down inside where I couldn't see it until after
>>> I took the parts apart.
>>>
>>> Since the HS I have reamed each hole on the parts.
>>> I prefer the reamer to the drill bit. I then
>>> deburred the hole, and deburred the edges. Dimpled
>>> where necessary, primed the parts and put them
>>> together with clecos for the very first time, ready
>>> to rivet.
>>>
>>> I found that the clecos went in much better where
>>> the parts were reamed before clecoing and did not
>>> push any of the ears back like I had done in the
>>> past. The CAD parts machine has made the parts go
>>> together without a hitch so far.
>>>
>>> Not only has the elimination of match drilling saved
>>> loads of time but it has also produced fewer double
>>> holes in rib ears. It is easy to tell if the rib
>>> ear has been caught by the cleco during riveting
>>> because even down deep in the part you are reaching
>>> your hand donw inside with the bucking bar to buck
>>> anyway. On the few times that I have not caught the
>>> rib ear and was ready to rivet, it was easy to push
>>> the rib ear in place and work the rivet into the
>>> hole even though the parts had not been mached
>>> drilled.
>>>
>>> On a very few occussions I had to run the reamer
>>> though the holes after putting the parts together,
>>> where I had not match drilled, but then again back
>>> when I was match drilling I had to do that as well.
>>>
>>> Good luck on your project.
>>>
>>> Russ Daves
>>> N710 RV (Reserved)
>>
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: no match drill |
"rv-list"
<001001c589b0$186ccc80$59d96d44@D43G8741>
Read plans, measure, cut, smooth edges, measure..re-read plans (both sets),
re-measure, mark, punch, drill....OH sorry.... I was thinking of the first
10 or 12 steps of the HRII program before the first debar. 8*) KABONG Do
Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: no match drill
>
> Ream, deburr, dimple, cleco, rivet.
>
> Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd1.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
I've decided to go and buy a bandsaw tomorrow. For you RV-10 guys, will a 9 or
10 inch bandsaw suffice or are there many times you wish you had a 12 inch.
I'll probably buy from sears or home depot. Any specific specs I need to look
for???
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
Ready to start Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AndrewTR30(at)aol.com |
I got my Ryobi 9" at home depot for $99 and it has worked well for me so
far. Make sure you get a metal cutting blade with it. I'm pretty sure anything
in the 18 teeth per inch range should work fine.
Andrew Rayhill
Wings 40078
Phoenix
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
A 9" is fine. I got a $99 delta table top and am happy with it. A fellow
RV builder got one from Sears with a deeper throat, which he liked. Point
is, unless you plan on woodworking and re-sawing old oak planks, get the
Delta or the Craftsman and move on. Lots of teeth, though. Cuts easier and
smoother.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: bandsaw
I've decided to go and buy a bandsaw tomorrow. For you RV-10 guys, will a 9
or 10 inch bandsaw suffice or are there many times you wish you had a 12
inch. I'll probably buy from sears or home depot. Any specific specs I
need to look for???
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
Ready to start Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | RV-10s coming to Oshkosh? |
Jeff,
That's a great thing! We tried to find out if this was going to happen and
couldn't find almost any information. We have a -10 (N256H) that will be
parking there. We were told to go to the Home Built Parking lot and ask to
be put with the other RV's. To get to your -10 rows do we need to do
anything special? Thanks for getting this info out.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Point
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10s coming to Oshkosh?
I originally asked this in the VAF RV-10 forum but I figured I'd try here
too:
I need some help and this seems like the place to get it. I am in charge of
RV parking at Oshkosh, and we are planning on having a special reserved area
for RV-10s. I need to get an estimate of the number of 10s which will be at
Oshkosh. Anybody with a flying 10 who plans to be at Oshkosh, or anyone who
is aware of one who is not on this list, please respond and let me know. If
you are planning on parking anwhere other than the RV area (ie. homebuilt
campgrounds, a vendor's tent, etc,) please mention that also.
Current plans are to have two rows reserved for 10s in the area just west of
Van's tent, but this is subject to change.
Thanks
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
________________________________________________________________________________
<42D8112D.7080301(at)MyRV10.com>
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleco every hole. |
>
Several years ago I was helping some builders with a RV-9A fuselage kit.
I instructed them to cleco every other hole, match drill, shift the
clecos one hole and match drill the remaining holes.
Later while dimpling the holes in the skin, I asked why they did not
drill a hole between two existing holes that where 2.5 inches a part.
Their answer was that there was not a prepunched hole in the skin to
drill. There was a prepunched hole in the mating rib.
THINK!
Richard Reynolds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
<42D8112D.7080301(at)MyRV10.com>
| Subject: | Re: Cleco every hole. |
Anytime a line of holes have a missing space between them it should raise a
real question as to WHY and you should always check it out. The easiest way
is to simple look at the rivit callout page in the plans. If the rivet
callout page shows a continous row of rivets without the space it is obvious
that the CAD machine failed to punch the hole.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cleco every hole.
>
>>
> Several years ago I was helping some builders with a RV-9A fuselage kit.
>
> I instructed them to cleco every other hole, match drill, shift the
> clecos one hole and match drill the remaining holes.
>
> Later while dimpling the holes in the skin, I asked why they did not
> drill a hole between two existing holes that where 2.5 inches a part.
> Their answer was that there was not a prepunched hole in the skin to
> drill. There was a prepunched hole in the mating rib.
>
> THINK!
>
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleco every hole. |
Richard is correct,
You will find that along the way there are some very slight differences in one
side of a skin. You neeed to make sure ALL the holes line up before you start
riveting!
Doesn't mean you have to Cleco every hole. Just make sure it is the right parts
and they are in the correct orientation. For me there have been at least two
times where I have clecoed together a set of parts and had to remove and select
a different part because of a mistake on my part.
Flap skins are one of those places where you really need to look carefully. The
rear fuel tank baffle is another. Vans has done an excellent job of making
the parts nearly idiot proof. But I sure have tried!
So before you drill that hole that you think is missing. CHECK the parts. Especially
if it's a part that will require dimples.
And for what it is worth, I too have started drilling all the holes to final size
before fitting. I have not had any problems with alignment. Makes the build
process go just a little faster. The reamer idea is a good one too.
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
N312F Reserved
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Jul 2005 07:17:05 -0400
>
Several years ago I was helping some builders with a RV-9A fuselage kit.
I instructed them to cleco every other hole, match drill, shift the
clecos one hole and match drill the remaining holes.
Later while dimpling the holes in the skin, I asked why they did not
drill a hole between two existing holes that where 2.5 inches a part.
Their answer was that there was not a prepunched hole in the skin to
drill. There was a prepunched hole in the mating rib.
THINK!
Richard Reynolds
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | A GUIDE TO AIRCRAFT PAINTING & CORROSION CONTROL |
> This Information comes from my own research which I
did for
> my RV-8A, which I am building. Information applies
to both Aluminum and Composite aircraft. This is the
3th printing.
>
> --------------- ------------- ------------
>
> SAVE YOURSELF hundreds of hours of research time and
> building time, by using the comprehensive
>
> "Guide to Painting & Corrosion Control of Aluminum
> and
> Composite Aircraft"
>
> This book took over 600+ hours of research time by
> me,
> a fussy RV-8A Builder. Contains 69 pages of the
> latest, practical information - summarized and
> gathered from MIL Standards, Paint Shops, Builders
> like you (what worked or didn't), Airframe Mfgs,
> etc.
> Covers products from PP&G, Dupont, Sherwin W'ms,
> Sterling, Poly Fiber, Deft, Randolph Paints, PRC De
> Soto, US Paints, Aircraft Finishing Systems, 3M,
> etc.
>
> Some of the Topics covered in the 30 Sections are:
> * Aircraft Paints vs Auto Paints and Other
> Considerations
> * Corrosion Control
> * Spray Guns - selecting, adjusting, using
> and painting problems
> * Brushes / Rollers used with Primers &
> Paints
> * Prep Methods for Painting - Fiberglass,
> Steel and Aluminum
> * Epoxy Primers for Aluminum - MIL &
> Commercial, Solvent & Water Reducible
> * Primers for Fiberglass & Steel
> * Wash Primers & Self Etching Primers
> * Other Primers - Zinc Chromate,Zinc Oxide,
> Enamel
> * Paint Types: MIL & Non MIL Polyurethanes
> Enamel Types
> Acrylics - Lacquers & Enamels
> * Acid Etch / Conversion Coatings (Alodine)
> * Selecting a Paint Shop
> * 3M Cleaning Pads, Liquid Cleaner
> compatibility
> * Paint Booths and their Construction
> * References - MIL Standards & Tech Orders
> * Directory of Aircraft Paint Mfgs, Distrib-
> utors, etc. E-Mail addresses, phone
> numbers, Application Notes
>
> YOUR AIRPLANE is judged by it's Paint Job and it is
> costly too, so have the latest "Information" in
> order
> to make good decisions. Contains plenty of "Do's"
> and
> "Don'ts" that save you time, money and frustration.
>
> Send a check for $26 to (includes Postage within the
> US) to:
> Garey Wittich RV-8A Builder
> 58 Village Parkway
> Santa Monica, CA. 90405
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd3.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
Thanks for all the replies. I bought a 9" tradesman from Sears today. I know.
Who the hell is Tradesman. Well, I asked the same thing but the Craftsman 9"
was spec'd out almost exactly the same and had less warranty. The Craftsman
was $99. The Tradesman was on Clearance from that particular store (not the
whole Sears chain) for $53. So, needless to say I bought it and 3- 59 1/2" blades
with 15 TPI. I hope 15 is fine enough. Does anybody know. I looked all
over for a variable speed saw and nobody had one so I had to settle for this.
Any questions, comments or remarks about this particular saw please let me know.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bandsaw
I'm happy with my 9" Delta from Lowes (twin to the Ryobi.) So far if I needed
a deeper throat 12" would not have really mattered either. Keep a good sharp
blade in your hacksaw for those cases. I had some trouble locatiing a 59.5" x
18 tpi blade, Home Depot does not stock them but Lowes carries them in the stores
in Las Vegas but they are not always in stock. I am on my second blade because
I tried to cut something entierly unrelated to the airplane. One thing about
these saws, follow the instructions for setting up the blade in regards to
tracking and tension. I make a big difference in how well it performs in the
accuracy department. I was also told by Delta that if I cut metal it would void
my warranty, their tool is made only for wood??? I found this out by calling
and asking who stocks fine tooth blades for cutting metal. I keep mine clean
inside and out and it works just fine. Later I did a google and found several
places on the web who sell blades for about 8 dollars each, haven't needed to
order one yet though.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
You done good.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bandsaw
Thanks for all the replies. I bought a 9" tradesman from Sears today. I
know. Who the hell is Tradesman. Well, I asked the same thing but the
Craftsman 9" was spec'd out almost exactly the same and had less warranty.
The Craftsman was $99. The Tradesman was on Clearance from that particular
store (not the whole Sears chain) for $53. So, needless to say I bought it
and 3- 59 1/2" blades with 15 TPI. I hope 15 is fine enough. Does anybody
know. I looked all over for a variable speed saw and nobody had one so I
had to settle for this.
Any questions, comments or remarks about this particular saw please let me
know.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick <mailto:ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: bandsaw
I'm happy with my 9" Delta from Lowes (twin to the Ryobi.) So far if I
needed a deeper throat 12" would not have really mattered either. Keep a
good sharp blade in your hacksaw for those cases. I had some trouble
locatiing a 59.5" x 18 tpi blade, Home Depot does not stock them but Lowes
carries them in the stores in Las Vegas but they are not always in stock. I
am on my second blade because I tried to cut something entierly unrelated to
the airplane. One thing about these saws, follow the instructions for
setting up the blade in regards to tracking and tension. I make a big
difference in how well it performs in the accuracy department. I was also
told by Delta that if I cut metal it would void my warranty, their tool is
made only for wood??? I found this out by calling and asking who stocks fine
tooth blades for cutting metal. I keep mine clean inside and out and it
works just fine. Later I did a google and found several places on the web
who sell blades for about 8 dollars each, haven't needed to order one yet
though.
Rick S.
40185
utilities such Browse,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Since I haven't got the fuse plans yet - simple (silly) question for the day
. . .
Where do the fuel tank vent lines connect/exit to?
Ron
#187
Finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Vent lines |
Ron,
They turn down right after they exit the tank and penetrate the bottom wing gap
seal right at the wing root between the fuselage side and the last rib.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Cutting and Radio Stack Photos |
Tim,
Those displays have a pretty low profile, looks like a piece of cake to get them
wired up. I assume they provide a harness vs. you having to build it yourself?
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cost effective NR in the RV-10 |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Here is a low cost NR solution for outfitting the RV-10 (four
passenger). If you order the Bose Quiet Comfort 2 headsets from Bose
Mailorder by 7/31 you get 10% additional savings off retail.
http://www.bose.com/controller?eventVIEW_PRODUCT_PAGE_EVENT&productqc2
_headphones_index&pageName/index_3.jsp Sport Aviation just advertised
12 equal monthly payments with ZERO interest for those 12 months. These
units are only 7 oz each (versus 12 oz for the aviation units). They
have the similar capability of the aviation version, except no
individual volume control on each headset. http://www.uflymike.com/
With the UFLYMIKE boom mike adapter you have a cost effective solution
for a set of four for far less than the price of two aviation units.
This guy is an ATP who found a better mouse trap. BOSE is seeing red
cause scores of Commercial Air Carrier pilots are opting for the light
weight and QC2 cost savings.
I have no affiliation with this product or Bose. Just bought mine
Saturday.... See you at OSH '2005.
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG |
While working on our -10 at auburn, washington, the airport manager came up to
me and said there is a rv-10 that just tied down ! Shure enough! it is the proud
owners of Ed Mcginty and his wife from Boise Idaho placarded june 3rd -05
Brian Bollaert
#40200
P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Go to http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/index.html and all your questions
will be answered. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Vent lines
-->
G'day all,
Since I haven't got the fuse plans yet - simple (silly) question for the
day . . .
Where do the fuel tank vent lines connect/exit to?
Ron
#187
Finishing wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I had a pleasant surprise today....George Costigan, a new RV-10 bulder,
actually put me down as his finders fee guy from Van's. I'm very
thankful that he thinks I've helped him out in some way. It's
a very nice surprise indeed.
This does trigger me to mention to any lurking future builders though...
When you order your Kit from Van's, you can referr a name who
either helped you come to the purchase of the kit, or helps
you in some manner with something....in my case, it's an RV-4
builder locally (Rick) who was instrumental by "letting" ;) me
help rivet his wings, so that I knew I could actually DO this
kind of kit. With his motivation, I overcame the fear of
the purchase.
Just remember, when you buy your first kit, you have the opportuntiy
to pass on a thanks in the form of a finders fee to someone.
I belive you should pick someone who you really think provided
some motivation, or will provide you some help down the road.
it's a big project, and ideally you'll have a local builder who
can help...and they'd be the perfect candidate for such a gift.
I'm ABSOLUTELY NOT fishing for more of these myself, but I
would like to make sure people know about that policy so that
people can take advantage of the gift and not just forget about
it and let it go unclaimed.
For the record, I actually don't know exactly what the finders
fee is. I can't remember if it's cash, or a credit for stuff
from Van's, and I don't know how much it is. I did ask my
buddy Rick at the time, but I just don't know anymore.
Thanks George, and good luck with your kit!
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG |
>
>While working on our -10 at auburn, washington, the airport manager came up
>to me and said there is a rv-10 that just tied down ! Shure enough! it is
>the proud owners of Ed Mcginty and his wife from Boise Idaho placarded june
>3rd -05
>
>
>Brian Bollaert
>#40200
>
SWEEEET! The similarity in N number AND paint scheme to my RV8 is downright
scary. Could be a sign that I simply MUST get busy on my -10 again.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD, in teal and gold
RV10 '51 waiting on QB wings. Still.
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Lucky Day |
My inspiring RV-6 buddy got $100 from Van when I
listed him on the form.
Steve 40212
--- Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> I had a pleasant surprise today....George Costigan,
> a new RV-10 bulder,
> actually put me down as his finders fee guy from
> Van's. I'm very
> thankful that he thinks I've helped him out in some
> way. It's
> a very nice surprise indeed.
>
> This does trigger me to mention to any lurking
> future builders though...
>
> When you order your Kit from Van's, you can referr a
> name who
> either helped you come to the purchase of the kit,
> or helps
> you in some manner with something....in my case,
> it's an RV-4
> builder locally (Rick) who was instrumental by
> "letting" ;) me
> help rivet his wings, so that I knew I could
> actually DO this
> kind of kit. With his motivation, I overcame the
> fear of
> the purchase.
>
> Just remember, when you buy your first kit, you have
> the opportuntiy
> to pass on a thanks in the form of a finders fee to
> someone.
> I belive you should pick someone who you really
> think provided
> some motivation, or will provide you some help down
> the road.
> it's a big project, and ideally you'll have a local
> builder who
> can help...and they'd be the perfect candidate for
> such a gift.
> I'm ABSOLUTELY NOT fishing for more of these myself,
> but I
> would like to make sure people know about that
> policy so that
> people can take advantage of the gift and not just
> forget about
> it and let it go unclaimed.
>
> For the record, I actually don't know exactly what
> the finders
> fee is. I can't remember if it's cash, or a credit
> for stuff
> from Van's, and I don't know how much it is. I did
> ask my
> buddy Rick at the time, but I just don't know
> anymore.
>
> Thanks George, and good luck with your kit!
>
> Tim
>
> --
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG |
report
Yeah, he stopped over in Iowa City but sadly I never actually met him (just drooled on the glass). Are they coming to OSH? If so, the airport hotel owner is hosting a pre-OSH pool party on Saturday (http://www.alexisparkinn.com/fly-in_pool_party.htm). Anyone flying by is welcome to stop in. I certainly wouldn't mind another drool opportunity.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: brian bollaert
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 8:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG
While working on our -10 at auburn, washington, the airport manager came up to
me and said there is a rv-10 that just tied down ! Shure enough! it is the
proud owners of Ed Mcginty and his wife from Boise Idaho placarded june 3rd -05
Brian Bollaert
#40200
P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG |
No i don't think so they did not mention it , and they did say they are very busy
with there 2 businesses .
Brian Bollaert
#40200
----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Sponcil
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG
Yeah, he stopped over in Iowa City but sadly I never actually met him (just drooled on the glass). Are they coming to OSH? If so, the airport hotel owner is hosting a pre-OSH pool party on Saturday (http://www.alexisparkinn.com/fly-in_pool_party.htm). Anyone flying by is welcome to stop in. I certainly wouldn't mind another drool opportunity.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: brian bollaert
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 8:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG
While working on our -10 at auburn, washington, the airport manager came up
to me and said there is a rv-10 that just tied down ! Shure enough! it is the
proud owners of Ed Mcginty and his wife from Boise Idaho placarded june 3rd
-05
Brian Bollaert
#40200
P7170077.JPG;P7170078.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AndrewTR30(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Steel Plate for back riveting |
All the back-riveting I have done has required the work to sit down flush on
the back-riveting plate. If you have clecos inserted in every second, third
or even fourth hole they will not let the skin sit down flush on such a large
plate. I have used the one that Avery sells and have been happy with it so
far.
Andrew Rayhill
QB wings 40078
Phoenix
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant Location |
OK....who are we kidding. We like the quadrants because it feels cool...like we're
flying a F-16 or 747. :-)
Don't tell my I was the only one thinking it!!!
Kent Forsythe
40338
Tail Cone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant Location |
for what it's worth, I've flown with both types of controls and i favor the
push pull cables over the quadrant primarily becaus the quadrant does not
have the capability of a vernier on the mixture
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant Location |
report
Yeah, in addition to the numbers, how did the nose feel? Some have
complained that N410RV is a bit nose heavy with the 0-540. Any impressions
you care to share?
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Throttle Quadrant Location
>
> John,
>
> How did the small engine RV10 perform?
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116 Fus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
> Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 2:36 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Throttle Quadrant Location
>
> -->
>
> I hear N410RV is getting / has gotten a throttle quadrant. I was at
> Van's last Friday and did the demo ride thing in N220RV, N410RV was in
> the shop area getting mod work done before Oshkosh. Didn't get to cross
> the yellow tape and look inside it. It would be super if someone gets
> some really great pics of it at OSH, especially the throttle quadrant
> installation details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant Location |
"I was at Van's last Friday and did the demo ride thing in N220RV"
Hello All,
This brings up a question that I have been wondering about for a while. For all
of you 10 builders, how many of you actually have time in a 10 either as PIC
or passenger? I am going to Oshkosh with the hopes of getting a chance to demo
one of the demonstrators. If I can't, I will visit the factory for the ride.
I have already decided on the 10, and from everyone's experience with the
plane and it's performance, etc., I know it is the right choice. I was speaking
to a friend / C-182 driver the other day & I told him I have decided to go
with an RV10. The first thing he asked was "How does it fly?" I told him I
haven't actually flown in one yet which he thought was a little strange!
Thanks, Mark (Going with a 10 no matter what anyone says!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant Location |
My buddy, Terry Cole who died of a heart attack at age 52, hand carried my check
to Oshkosh 2003 and filed out orders #1 & #2 at Oshkosh for the RV-10. Both
of us had Flying RV-6A's at the time. In September 2003 at the Big Country Airfest
in Abilene, Texas, Terry and I both got to fly N710RV. Terry with his
wife and and naturally the Van's pilot Scott, then my wife and me with Scott.
Terry and I both thought that the RV-10 performed almost identical to our RV-6A's
with the exception of the back pressure on the stick because it was a lot bigger
airplane, which I found to be OK and not nearly the back pressure in my
three prior C-182's.
Scott wouldn't let me actually take off or land the 10 but I did get to follow
through with him on the stick. He wouldn't let me do a roll or loop either, dang
it!! He didn't even have laugh when I suggested a roll, and just frowned
at me when I said well I guess a loop is also out of the question.
I am sure prior RV owners like myself will miss not having the true fighter pilot
response to do loops and rolls but it still flies like an RV and that is miles
above everything else.
Anybody that has been flying a Cessna or Piper, etc., that gets a ride in an RV-10
is going to walk away with an RV Grin and wonder "how do I get my hands on
one".
Russ Daves
Fuselage on Gear
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark & Kelly
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Throttle Quadrant Location
"I was at Van's last Friday and did the demo ride thing in N220RV"
Hello All,
This brings up a question that I have been wondering about for a while. For
all of you 10 builders, how many of you actually have time in a 10 either as PIC
or passenger? I am going to Oshkosh with the hopes of getting a chance to
demo one of the demonstrators. If I can't, I will visit the factory for the ride.
I have already decided on the 10, and from everyone's experience with the
plane and it's performance, etc., I know it is the right choice. I was speaking
to a friend / C-182 driver the other day & I told him I have decided to go
with an RV10. The first thing he asked was "How does it fly?" I told him
I haven't actually flown in one yet which he thought was a little strange!
Thanks, Mark (Going with a 10 no matter what anyone says!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets |
While pulling the AD42H blind rivets for the fuel tanks, the ones that go
through the "Z" brackets, I had a shank break off leaving a tail. The
rivet shank didn't break at the rivet head but left a "tail" that I ground
off. The rivet seemed to pull normally and was solid. Vans tech support
said this happens occasionally and as long as the head is formed properly
it's OK. Well, it's a blind rivet so how do you know if the head is formed
properly? Anyone else have this happen? About to finish the other tank and
would like some input....john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets |
John,
Did you happen to see how much shank was in the tool after it broke off? If it
is just a bit shorter than the rest of the shanks it most likely set OK. I would
have left the protruding edge sticking out of the rivet head and bent it down
a little bit then sealed it with proseal to keep it in place. Those rivets
have sealed ends so there is no chance that the rivet shank can enter the tank.
One rivet in the Z-angle that is not completely set should not have an effect
on the entire structural matrix of the other brackets and the screws that hold
the tank to the wing spar. I would worry more about the rivet FODing out the
wing, that's why I suggest bending over and sealing it in for good.
Rick S.
40185
Waiting on the Fuselage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Vent Question - SV-1? |
Looking ahead a few chapters it calls for the SV-1 Side vent to be
applied. Is it included in the fuselage kit, finishing kit, or other? I
didn't see it in the parts listing for the fuselage so I'm posing the
question to those who have gone before....
Thanks,
Byron
Ready to rivet the fuselage side skins # 40253
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Vent Question - SV-1? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Finishing kit - I had the same question.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Vent Question - SV-1?
Looking ahead a few chapters it calls for the SV-1 Side vent to be
applied. Is it included in the fuselage kit, finishing kit, or other? I
didn't see it in the parts listing for the fuselage so I'm posing the
question to those who have gone before....
Thanks,
Byron
Ready to rivet the fuselage side skins # 40253
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Vent Question - SV-1? |
Thanks for the quick reply - at least I am not going totally crazy :-0
Byron
Ready to rivet the fuselage side skins # 40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuselage Vent Question - SV-1?
Finishing kit - I had the same question.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Vent Question - SV-1?
Looking ahead a few chapters it calls for the SV-1 Side vent to be
applied. Is it included in the fuselage kit, finishing kit, or other? I
didn't see it in the parts listing for the fuselage so I'm posing the
question to those who have gone before....
Thanks,
Byron
Ready to rivet the fuselage side skins # 40253
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets |
Rick,
Thanks for the reply. The rivet "pulled" the same as the rest and
"popped" at the same time but didn't break at the rivet head so I think it's
set. AC43.13 mentions self plugging rivets and talks about grinding and
filing the shanks to finish them so that's what I did. Prosealed over rivet
head and the leak check was OK. Ken at Van's says the cause is most likely
the rivet tool but I hadn't had any problem before. Just thought I may have
a bad batch of rivets but if nobody else is having this problem it probably
is the tool. May get another pop rivet tool and try it on the right
tank.......john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets |
Good deal,
All mine popped off without a hitch. Looks like problem solved. One thing, If anyone
has one of those swivel head pop rivet pullers, put a big screwdriver into
the hole on the back side of the tool directly behind the nose of the tool
and make sure the screw that holds all the guts into the tool is tight. Shoot
some LPS 1 or 2 into that hole and make sure the screw is tight. Mine flew came
off while riveting the flaps, hit me in the chest and I had to search for att
he parts (5 little pieces I think) I found the all and figured out how it went
back together and managed to GET it back together....took some head scratching.
Afet talking to several other builders it seems you should lube the mechanisim
every once in awhile and make sure that set screw is tight once in awhile...hmmmm
wish I had kept the instruction to see if I was negligent!!! either
way..consider yourself's informed.
Rick S.
40185
Wifuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Painting Windshield before Laying Glass |
I've started to lay up the glass at the bottom of the windshield when I realized
that it looks pretty ugly looking out from the inside. I have forgotten to
paint it before laying the glass. I'm about 0.5" into the plexi and will need
to go about 1.5" more. What paint do people use on plexi? Any worries of the
glass sticking to the paint vice the plexi? Any suggestion for remedies on
the 0.5" at the bottom that I have already laid up the glass? Paint the inside?
That will be a challenging masking job.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Comcast" <kenbpeck(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant Location |
I was out in Tacoma, WA last month and took a day to drive down to vans for a demo
in the -10. Ken Scott took me up in N220RV. We had a good stiff crosswind,
take off was uneventful, roll was plenty short, and since we were taking off
behind a Stearman, Ken waited a bit to prevent overtaking him on climb-out.
After we cleared the area, I took the controls and did some nice easy turns,
climbs, and a couple of stalls. The plan was very docile when stalling with
very minimal predictable buffeting. Recovery was very quick and easy, either
by applying power or dropping the nose just slightly. Honestly, it's been a long
time since I've had any pic time, and my hours are all in 152, 172, and 170's,
but I found the -10's handling to be responsive and comfortable.
So, I did have my mind already made up, but that demo cemented it!
Ken
Vans 40439 - Empenage arriving in 3 days!
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark & Kelly
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Throttle Quadrant Location
"I was at Van's last Friday and did the demo ride thing in N220RV"
Hello All,
This brings up a question that I have been wondering about for a while. For
all of you 10 builders, how many of you actually have time in a 10 either as PIC
or passenger? I am going to Oshkosh with the hopes of getting a chance to
demo one of the demonstrators. If I can't, I will visit the factory for the ride.
I have already decided on the 10, and from everyone's experience with the
plane and it's performance, etc., I know it is the right choice. I was speaking
to a friend / C-182 driver the other day & I told him I have decided to go
with an RV10. The first thing he asked was "How does it fly?" I told him
I haven't actually flown in one yet which he thought was a little strange!
Thanks, Mark (Going with a 10 no matter what anyone says!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets |
| From: | "John Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
John,
I had the exact same thing happen. I'm positive it pulled properly, the
shank just broke and inch to high. I haven't dealt with it yet, but I'm
just going to cut it off and proseal over the hole if it leaks.
John
#40208 Fuel Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets
-->
Rick,
Thanks for the reply. The rivet "pulled" the same as the rest and
"popped" at the same time but didn't break at the rivet head so I think
it's set. AC43.13 mentions self plugging rivets and talks about
grinding and filing the shanks to finish them so that's what I did.
Prosealed over rivet head and the leak check was OK. Ken at Van's says
the cause is most likely the rivet tool but I hadn't had any problem
before. Just thought I may have a bad batch of rivets but if nobody
else is having this problem it probably is the tool. May get another
pop rivet tool and try it on the right tank.......john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets |
I bought a $39.00 pneumatic pop rivet gun at Harbor Freight. Other than the
$25.00 pneumatic cleco puller I bought at Yard Tools, it may be the best
tool buy I have made. Not only will it pull the rivets in the Emp/Tailcone
and wings but when you get to the floor panels on the fuselage it works even
better because there are so very very many of them.
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: "Pop" rivets on fuel tank "Z" brackets
>
> Good deal,
>
> All mine popped off without a hitch. Looks like problem solved. One thing,
> If anyone has one of those swivel head pop rivet pullers, put a big
> screwdriver into the hole on the back side of the tool directly behind the
> nose of the tool and make sure the screw that holds all the guts into the
> tool is tight. Shoot some LPS 1 or 2 into that hole and make sure the
> screw is tight. Mine flew came off while riveting the flaps, hit me in the
> chest and I had to search for att he parts (5 little pieces I think) I
> found the all and figured out how it went back together and managed to GET
> it back together....took some head scratching. Afet talking to several
> other builders it seems you should lube the mechanisim every once in
> awhile and make sure that set screw is tight once in awhile...hmmmm wish I
> had kept the instruction to see if I was negligent!!! either
> way..consider yourself's informed.
>
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Wifuse
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
All,
Thanks for the reply to my question about the AD42H rivet shanks.
Looks like a non-issue. I pulled one in a test piece where I could watch it
and now am sure the others are set. One to one and a half squeezes of the
puller sets them fine and they are self plugging, no way they can leak if
they're set. Just as an aside, I took Rick's advice and cleaned the pop
tool. Found some grease had migrated onto the jaws and may have been the
cause of the problem. Works fine now.....john
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Quadrant Location |
All of my time, 400 hrs of it, is in Cessnas. I'm currently flying a C-182.
I think we had around 700 lbs of people and about 2/3 tanks as I remember.
Ken Scott did the flight. We didn't do a lot of stalls, steep turns, etc
because my wife's stomach doesn't like maneuvering. So the turns were prety
much standard rate stuff just to feel it a little bit. Ken demonstrated the
only stall we did, I thought there quite a bit more buffet that could be
felt prior to the stall than you get in a Cessna. It lets you know its going
to stall way before it happens. Might call it "idiot-proof". Take-off tok
about 700 ft, judged by watching the VASI lights. We started about 200 ft
before the first one, were off abeam the second one. Once in the air, it
took several seconds to pick up speed and start showing a climb, once
stabilized it was 1000 fpm at 120ish. Mucho better than the C-182 with
similar load. Ken didn't really fly it, he just nudged the stick with the
back of his hand now and then to keep it pointed in the right direction. I
can be easily flown with a single fingertip. You don't need to "grab" the
stick. It remains rock solid stable for many seconds without touching, so
you can refold a sectional chart, look up an airport in the Flight Guide,
etc, and the plane will behave itself. The C-182 likes to wander off on its
own while doing these things. Didn't see a need for rudder trim, I wondered
about that myself. C-182 has it & I use it there. Wish the C-172 had it for
climbs since they take soooo loonnngggg. I think Ken pooched the landing
though, when we turned on final I think we were still at pattern altitude,
no flaps out yet, can't remember the speed. I kept my mouth shut and let the
PIC fly the plane. We landed long, floated a long time in the flare, and
rolled out at the far end of the runway. Boy I really missed that Cessna
nose wheel shimmy (NOT!) on rollout. Almost wish my wife had stayed on the
ground, but her buy-in to this project is essential.
John
#40333
Bobby J. Hughes writes:
>
> John,
>
> How did the small engine RV10 perform?
>
> Bobby Hughes
> 40116 Fus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
> Sent: Tuesday, July 19, 2005 2:36 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Throttle Quadrant Location
>
> -->
>
> ... I was at
> Van's last Friday and did the demo ride thing in N220RV...
>
> John Kirkland
> #40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Painting Windshield before Laying Glass |
You can also mix in tonner from any copy machine and it works great.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of robert watson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Painting Windshield before Laying Glass
if you want black mix in actavated charcoal with epoxy it works and
looks great no paint problems. did this to mine and looks great all the
way around no ugly. Bob Watson 194BN
-----Original Message-----
From: DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Painting Windshield before Laying Glass
I've started to lay up the glass at the bottom of the windshield when I
realized that it looks pretty ugly looking out from the inside. I have
forgotten to paint it before laying the glass. I'm about 0.5" into the
plexi and will need to go about 1.5" more. What paint do people use on
plexi? Any worries of the glass sticking to the paint vice the plexi?
Any suggestion for remedies on the 0.5" at the bottom that I have
already laid up the glass? Paint the inside? That will be a
challenging masking job.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: N610RV flight |
A lot has been talked about on this site lately about
RV-10 flight characteristics and how the short demo at
Van's is not quite enough. On a visit to Portland last
spring I helped Randy prep 610RV for paint. Last month
he was kind enough to return the favor. Randy, our
wives and I took his new airplane and flew west to the
Oregon coast, north along the coast line sight seeing,
then back.
This was a great "demo" of the RV-10, Four adults and
full fuel. The cross country portion was just your
basic climb out, level off followed by an en route
descent to the coast. 110KTS IAS on climb out gave us
1000' FPM. Very comfortable and only a small amount of
rudder was needed during climb or descent.
When we returned to the Aurora area Randy invited me
to "get the feel" by doing some more aggressive
flying. I did some chandelles and some steep turns
both directions. The controls are very well balanced
with only a very small amount of adverse aileron yaw
in a 60 degree bank. The plane was very predictable
and responsive with no surprises.
My wife loved the flight and is even more supportive
of the project now. It was great to do some "real
life" flying in the RV-10, thanks Randy!
Steve 40212 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
I just got a Randy ride in 610RV, yesterday as a matter of fact, not quite
as far as you, but far enough to have gotten more than I did with the
company plane. What impressed me was that a "quick built" customer plane
(quick meaning 20 months) was so fine a flying platform with such great
control, and it was only the fourth one flying! Steve, you must have been
the reason for Randy's wife (riding in the back seat) to beg that we not do
any lazy eights or chandelles when I mentioned them! After disembarking I
quite seriously said to myself, as I went back to work on the rudder, that
I'm going all the way and buy the QB everything just to get in the air
faster, it felt that good. We'll know more about how it handles in the
bumps after Randy and others make their way to Osh and back, but I have a
feeling the news will be good.
John Jessen, #40328. Rudder.
(Gosh, I love back riveting.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N610RV flight
A lot has been talked about on this site lately about RV-10 flight
characteristics and how the short demo at Van's is not quite enough. On a
visit to Portland last spring I helped Randy prep 610RV for paint. Last
month he was kind enough to return the favor. Randy, our wives and I took
his new airplane and flew west to the Oregon coast, north along the coast
line sight seeing, then back.
This was a great "demo" of the RV-10, Four adults and full fuel. The cross
country portion was just your basic climb out, level off followed by an en
route descent to the coast. 110KTS IAS on climb out gave us 1000' FPM. Very
comfortable and only a small amount of rudder was needed during climb or
descent.
When we returned to the Aurora area Randy invited me to "get the feel" by
doing some more aggressive flying. I did some chandelles and some steep
turns both directions. The controls are very well balanced with only a very
small amount of adverse aileron yaw in a 60 degree bank. The plane was very
predictable and responsive with no surprises.
My wife loved the flight and is even more supportive of the project now. It
was great to do some "real life" flying in the RV-10, thanks Randy!
Steve 40212 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi ,is me again (the will be new kit owner next week),sorry bother with my stupid
questions,it is anybody see 200 mph yet,everybody say about how nice handle
,turn ,controls armony,and view from up there,top speed ,I need to know top speed,hope
the new flyers are not scare to loose parts if push the envelope.
Thanks,Hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
>I just got my shirts back that my wife and I will be wearing to OSH.
>We took the paint scheme and had an embroidery pattern made up and
>just got our box full of shirts back today.
>
>So, when you're looking for us, you'll be able to recognize us.
>Here's a couple of photos...there are more shirts than are in
>the photos though.
>
>--
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Terrific looking shirts! My wife just walked by and sez, "ooh, those are
nice". So, keep the data file handy. I might need it someday.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skins |
I'm getting close to riveting the top wing skins and I
am expecting that I will shoot the rivets. The
reference in the plans to back riveting the skins has
me wondering if it is worth the effort? Any one have
any comments pros/cons or suggestions for either
technique?
Thanks
Steve 40212 wings (obviously)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Along these lines, if you paid the digital setup fee for the design, I
would be willing to chip in if you gave me access the file, as is the
guy here wants $150 setup fee, but if there is enough interest we could
use your contact and help off set your setup fee based on reusing it and
changing colors.
Thoughts?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My OSH Apparrel
>I just got my shirts back that my wife and I will be wearing to OSH.
>We took the paint scheme and had an embroidery pattern made up and
>just got our box full of shirts back today.
>
>So, when you're looking for us, you'll be able to recognize us.
>Here's a couple of photos...there are more shirts than are in
>the photos though.
>
>--
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Terrific looking shirts! My wife just walked by and sez, "ooh, those
are
nice". So, keep the data file handy. I might need it someday.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skins |
If I had the proper set up to do back riveting for such a large piece, I'd do that
over shooting. I find back riveting is more controlled, easier. However, that's
just my experience with the rudder, which is small and very flat. Not sure what
challenges the wings would present.
John Jessen #40328 Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skins |
Hi,
I tried backriveting both top wing skins but quickly
switched to standard both times. I had the heavy
weight rec for it and an extended backrivet set. I
found it was harder to get a good rivet bc my part
time rivet partners are inexperienced with bucking.
They would either press too hard or too little. For
the rib rivets you would also need an offset backrivet
set which was backordered at a number of suppliers
when I needed it. (I also think the offsets absorb
alot of the force and make -4's hard to set with my 2X
gun)
With standard riveting it is easier to recover (as
long as they stay on the rivet) and I was happy with
all of the rivets shot this way.
I also put a piece of rivet tape over the rivets and
this does a good job of protecting the skins from the
mushroom head.
Eric
--- Darton Steve wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I'm getting close to riveting the top wing skins and
> I
> am expecting that I will shoot the rivets. The
> reference in the plans to back riveting the skins
> has
> me wondering if it is worth the effort? Any one have
> any comments pros/cons or suggestions for either
> technique?
>
> Thanks
> Steve 40212 wings (obviously)
>
> __________________________________________________
> protection around
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skins |
I backrevietd all but a few of the rivets on the top skins with great results.
It took two of us about two hours to complete. I used the large 305 lb 1/2 of
a dumbell looking bucking bar with plastic tape on the face, I can't recall wif
I got it at Avery's or Cleveland but I did get the 12" long set from Clevealand.
It worked grwat, I never could get the back rivet set from Avery to work,
just bent ovet the rivets, they said if you had problems they would allow you
to revturn it but I never did. I even called Jay Pratt and sked if he had any
tips for that rivet set and he told me he could never get it to work either.
The 12" set from Clevealand is the way to go...I highly recommend you try it.
Feel free to contact me off list and I'll let you borrow mine for a small nominal
fee (postage). It will save you $50.
Rick S.
40185
In Fuselage limbo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting wing skins |
I like the swivel head rivet set with two layers masking tape on the
face of the set. You do need to replace the tape every so often. Also
a black dot in the center of the set. You can see the center of the set
easily in the reflection off that nice shinny aluminum.
Larry Rosen
#356
QB Wings
http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/
Eric Panning wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>I tried backriveting both top wing skins but quickly
>switched to standard both times. I had the heavy
>weight rec for it and an extended backrivet set. I
>found it was harder to get a good rivet bc my part
>time rivet partners are inexperienced with bucking.
>They would either press too hard or too little. For
>the rib rivets you would also need an offset backrivet
>set which was backordered at a number of suppliers
>when I needed it. (I also think the offsets absorb
>alot of the force and make -4's hard to set with my 2X
>gun)
>
>With standard riveting it is easier to recover (as
>long as they stay on the rivet) and I was happy with
>all of the rivets shot this way.
>
>I also put a piece of rivet tape over the rivets and
>this does a good job of protecting the skins from the
>mushroom head.
>
>Eric
>
>--- Darton Steve wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>I'm getting close to riveting the top wing skins and
>>I
>>am expecting that I will shoot the rivets. The
>>reference in the plans to back riveting the skins
>>has
>>me wondering if it is worth the effort? Any one have
>>any comments pros/cons or suggestions for either
>>technique?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Steve 40212 wings (obviously)
>>
>>__________________________________________________
>>protection around
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>browse
>>Subscriptions page,
>>FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting wing skins |
Nah, slow build, just took less time to finish up the wings than I thought, I have
the bottom skins to rivet, they are ready but I'm waiting to get a tech inspection
before. I have wing tips to do and some other unfun things with fiberglass,
lead time is 8 weeks, I have a lot of travel July through the end of August
so I really can't do much anyhow. It's so blasted hot in the Las Vegas garage
er um hanger that I'm not so sure I feel like playing out there much.
Rick S.
40185
Wings, Fuse on order (not limbo) ;D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Riveting wing skins |
Rick,
I think we are about the same place. I've completed one wing bottom skin and boy
was that a pain. That was the most difficult riveting so far in the entire
project. Even having a extra pair of hands didn't help much except for those
rivets around the flap hinge mounts. How did others rivet them? For a while
I was tempted to use MK-319-BS but then "manually" hammered it with the straight
rivet set supplied with the C-frame riveter. Wasn't pretty but it was effective.
Today, Saturday, I intend to complete the right outboard bottom skin.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/index8.html
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
>I'm burning 9-9.5gph right now in the Beech going 112Kts, so this will be a
>world of difference.
Man, that is awful. I burn 11 gph ROP in the Cardinal RG giving me a TAS of ~150
kts and if I want to save some gas, 9 gph LOP for a TAS of 138 kts at 6-8000
ft. For performance comparison sake, lets stay away from groundspeeds. For
those that are flying the 10s it should not be too difficult to feed the IAS,
PALT, OAT and heading into most GPS so that it can do a TAS calculation. Then
we can get an idea of true performance.
William
#40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Performance Comparisons |
For the flying -10s at OSH, I know that there will be all sorts of caveats,
but if you didn't do it on the way there, maybe you could do it on the way
back after the show, and that is to record your performance numbers at
prescribed altitudes, noting OAT, DA, winds, etc. Maybe we could begin an
RV-10 performance spreadsheet that could be tracked, perhaps on Tim's site,
such that the other (400 plus) of us still building could see effect of
engine, prop choice, etc, and thus better make up our minds as to which we
will choose. It would be great to begin now, and therefore someone out at
OSH would have to lead to get it coordinated, agree upon the altitudes, upon
the engine, prop settings, upon the other information needed to be recorded.
Some things will throw this all off, and that would be lack of wheel pants,
etc. But it's worth starting to record as we can now, refining it as we go.
.
John Jessen #40328 Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Brackets |
Interesting my bag had the same ...my number is 388. I don't now why they call
for pops there but on the elevators they also call for pops where the counterweight
skins contacts the main elevator skins. Don't know why as they are easy
to access.
Chris
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: James Hein
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 11:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Is there any reason as to why they specift blind rivets on page 9-15, step 7
?? It would seem like a good place for normal rivets, since you can get to both
sides very easily.
-Jim 40384, Waiting on receiving K1100-06 nutplates (My kit came with K1000-06
in the bag for K1100-06, but Van's is sending replacements )
(Picture attached)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Brackets |
If I remember correctly, there were talks about this some time ago. You may want
to leave riveting the WD-415 brackets until after the HS is mounted on the
tailcone and the trim cables fed through it. Screw the brackets onto the cables.
Then rivet the brackets to the cover plates. The problem some people mentioned
was that the protruding cables are not long enough to allow turning the brackets
and cover plates onto the cables. You could probably rivet them in place
right now and let the servo end of the trim cables loose to allow them to
protrude further out of the HS. Mine are solid rivets. We'll see...
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: James Hein
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 9:16 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Is there any reason as to why they specift blind rivets on page 9-15, step 7
?? It would seem like a good place for normal rivets, since you can get to both
sides very easily.
-Jim 40384, Waiting on receiving K1100-06 nutplates (My kit came with K1000-06
in the bag for K1100-06, but Van's is sending replacements )
(Picture attached)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Brackets |
I can imagine it would easy to mistaken K-1000 with K-1100, especially if you look
at these numbers all day long. My replacement also came in error. So it
took 3 times to get the correct ones.
Anh
#141
(on gear)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Interesting my bag had the same ...my number is 388. I don't now why they call
for pops there but on the elevators they also call for pops where the counterweight
skins contacts the main elevator skins. Don't know why as they are easy
to access.
Chris
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: James Hein
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 11:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Is there any reason as to why they specift blind rivets on page 9-15, step
7 ?? It would seem like a good place for normal rivets, since you can get to both
sides very easily.
-Jim 40384, Waiting on receiving K1100-06 nutplates (My kit came with K1000-06
in the bag for K1100-06, but Van's is sending replacements )
(Picture attached)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Riveting wing skins |
William,
It's all good. I think I left a few blood stains on the inside when I did mine.
The ones around the flap hinge brackets could've been a little further away
from the edges. I had to rivet them around one bracket after the entire wing
was completed. Imagine doing that with the push rod in place.
Anh
#141
(Fuse on gear - can't find egine mounting bolts)
----- Original Message -----
From: William Curtis
To: ricksked(at)earthlink.net ; RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 10:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Riveting wing skins
Rick,
I think we are about the same place. I've completed one wing bottom skin and
boy was that a pain. That was the most difficult riveting so far in the entire
project. Even having a extra pair of hands didn't help much except for those
rivets around the flap hinge mounts. How did others rivet them? For a while I
was tempted to use MK-319-BS but then "manually" hammered it with the straight
rivet set supplied with the C-frame riveter. Wasn't pretty but it was effective.
Today, Saturday, I intend to complete the right outboard bottom skin.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/index8.html
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I just went by and saw the first customer-built -10 flying today. It is
parked in the field right behind the Home-built vendors tents. For those
wondering how he did his tanks, he skipped a rib outboard of the main tank
and put another tank just like it (that space houses the stall warning tab).
He covered the main filler cap hole with a plate riveted in and has the
filler cap out at the end. I assume he has some type of rubber hose
connecting the two so the fuel just free-flows from the outboard tank to the
inboard. I also assume he has the vent running all the way out to the top
of the outboard tank (which should be obvious, or he would be draining fuel
everywhere when he filled up). He still isn't painted, but the workmanship
looks good. He used nut plates and screws to hold all of the tail section
fairings on instead of the pop rivets that the plans call for. I definitely
wish we had done this with our rudder bottom fairing because of the light.
Oh well, we just have some extra wire in there to allow us to pull the light
out and disconnect it.
It looks like he has a radio stack with a Garmin 430 and another NAV/COM and
he has a TruTrak ADI. Beyond that it looks pretty much like normal
instruments. Nice seats. He has floor carpet in. Headliner is just paint
over the fiberglass.
He has two commant style COM rod antennas on the top of the empennage along
with the ELT antenna. He has the V-shaped NAV antenna underneath the VS.
Marker Beacon is on the belly near the spar and the Transponder is the
little rod-with-a-ball style right behind the bottom cowl. He has an
Infinity Aerospace control yoke for the pilot's side and just a foam grip
with a single PTT on the right side.
I think he is in the special RV-10 row. Hopefully there will be several
more here in a couple of days. Ours is having a little trouble with one of
the cylinders, but we should be able to get it here still in the morning.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | airframe protection |
Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm the guy
ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to Vans,and one question
was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at van's,was what can of
corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before assy.they say was acid etched
and a clear primer was applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french
plane ,I found the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I
found the inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
Hugo,
According to the builder's manual, page 5-1, the primer used on the
QB is "Sherwin Williams P60 G2"
Myself, I'm using Alumiprep, Alodine, then a light coat of PPG DP50LF
Epoxy Primer. The Alodine is superior to zinc chromate primers, but
doesn't have great scratch protection - That's why I'm using the epoxy
primer as well.
-Jim 40384, still waiting for the correct nutplates..... make sure your
kit has the K1100-06 .. it should NOT be identical to the parts labeled
K1000-06.
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm the guy
ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to Vans,and one question
was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at van's,was what can
of corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before assy.they say was acid
etched and a clear primer was applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french
plane ,I found the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I
found the inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
>hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
Hugo,
According to the builder's manual, page 5-1, the primer used on the
QB is "Sherwin Williams P60 G2"
Myself, I'm using Alumiprep, Alodine, then a light coat of PPG DP50LF
Epoxy Primer. The Alodine is superior to zinc chromate primers, but
doesn't have great scratch protection - That's why I'm using the epoxy
primer as well.
-Jim 40384, still waiting for the correct nutplates..... make sure your
kit has the K1100-06 .. it should NOT be identical to the parts labeled
K1000-06.
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm the guy
ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to Vans,and one question
was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at van's,was what can
of corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before assy.they say was acid
etched and a clear primer was applied before assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french
plane ,I found the complete airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I
found the inside was like made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
>hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Trim Cable Brackets |
I went though this last week. I very thoughtfully scoffed at the LP4-3
rivets and went for an-4 solid rivets for look and being painted. I got one
on and really had to work at it, not something I want to take apart on the
next annual. The other side broke the nut off so I had to drill the rivets
out weld the nut back on and I used the pop rivets, it worked much better,
but I still have to take the blasted thing apart next annual and will most
likely have to drill the rivets out. My next RV-10 will have # 6 screws and
nut plates!!!!!!!!!
Noel
Going to OSH in my super cub at 90KTS :>) See you there just in time for
the ICE-CREAM
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Is there any reason as to why they specift blind rivets on page 9-15, step 7
?? It would seem like a good place for normal rivets, since you can get to
both sides very easily.
-Jim 40384, Waiting on receiving K1100-06 nutplates (My kit came with
K1000-06 in the bag for K1100-06, but Van's is sending replacements )
(Picture attached)
________________________________________________________________________________
Received-SPF: none (out8.mx.klmz.mi.voyager.net: 207.89.248.213 is neither permitted
nor denied by domain of core.com) client-ip=207.89.248.213; envelope-from=wcurtis(at)core.com;
helo=localhost;
| From: | William Curtis <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
>The other side broke the nut off so I had to drill the rivets
>out weld the nut back on and I used the pop rivets, it worked
>much better, but I still have to take the blasted thing apart
>next annual and will most likely have to drill the rivets out.
If there is one thing in the tailcone that worries me, its this welded nut. I
have a mental picture of the weld breaking off at the most in-opportune time causing
my elevator trip to be out of control. Im going to take some measurements
and see if I can get one of my machinist friends to fabricate a better part
out of a solid block of aluminum.
William Curtis
#40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: airframe protection |
Yes thats correct will probably only last a 100 years!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: airframe protection
>
> Good morning ,Thanks for the answers and ideas about performance(yes I'm
> the guy ask for real speed).-4 days before I will give my check to
> Vans,and one question was not very comforting I recive from sales dptm. at
> van's,was what can of corrosion protection was made in the QB kits before
> assy.they say was acid etched and a clear primer was applied before
> assy,it this correct.?,in my ex french plane ,I found the complete
> airframe was zinc cromate ,when rebuilding I found the inside was like
> made yesterday.sorry for those stupid questions .
> hugo
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two
replacements from Van's. The new ones are double
welded (both sides of the nut edge) and seem much
stronger. The original ones were welded only on one
edge of the nut in a thin line.
I have not replaced them yet but will be investigating
attaching via nut plates instead of rivets. Van's
thought this was ok when I talked to them - provided
there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it in
place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
If you build another solution, I suggest leaving space
for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
tweaking or inspection.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
Take a magnet to either the nut or the plate. They are both supposed to
be stainless, if the magnet attaches to one of the pieces then it was
not stainless....
I had 4 of these in 2 kits.... 1 was all stainless and you could not
break it, 3 had a ferrous steel plate and you could bend it and it would
break shortly thereafter... I called Van's, they seemed surprised to
hear this, but had no problem sending me free replacements.... I think
you should all check yours out.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Trim Cable Brackets
-->
I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two replacements from
Van's. The new ones are double welded (both sides of the nut edge) and
seem much stronger. The original ones were welded only on one edge of
the nut in a thin line.
I have not replaced them yet but will be investigating attaching via nut
plates instead of rivets. Van's thought this was ok when I talked to
them - provided there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it in
place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
If you build another solution, I suggest leaving space
for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
tweaking or inspection.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Vic Syracuse's RV-10 Flies! |
See here for photos!
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/VicsRV10/plane/index.html
Vic just CC'd me on the following note....great news! Also, finally
an MT prop flies an RV-10!
Van & Team---- You did it again! What a great airplane. N64VC took to
the air today, 7/24/2005, for the first time. Enclosed is the requisite
RV-grin photo after landing, and I assure you the grin needed no
prompting! We started the airplane in May of 2004, SN# 40229, and 14 1/2
months, 1700 manhours and 700 wife hours later (yes, she was right
there) we are beginning to have fun again. We used a QB kit, and wired,
painted, and upholstered it ourselves. The engine is an I0-540-D4A5
built by Performance Engines, with AirFlow Performance Injection,
Lightspeed Ignition on top, magneto on bottom, balanced, ported, and
flow balanced, with an MT-3 Blade prop. The panel is dual screen
Chelton, Garmin 430, Sl-30, PS Engineering PM7000CD, TruTrack Sorcerer
autopilot. With only 5 hours on it this weekend ,and limited to a
traffic pattern distance from the airport during those 5 hours, I've not
been able to get any good performance numbers yet. However, at 2650' DA,
climb rates have been about 1500 fpm. We've been asking Van for a 4
place since 1985, and he sure has delivered a winner!
Thanks again!!!
Vic & Carol Syracuse
3-time repeat offenders :)
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Mr Jack Sparling <jhs_61(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
Why not bend a piece of stainless to the proper angle
and make a bracket similar to the one on the other
end? The hole should not be difficult, and the cable
nuts could be used for adjustment as well as panel
removal when necessary. Integrity would certainly be
improved.
Just a thought
Jack
--- Eric Panning wrote:
>
>
>
> I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two
> replacements from Van's. The new ones are double
> welded (both sides of the nut edge) and seem much
> stronger. The original ones were welded only on one
> edge of the nut in a thin line.
>
> I have not replaced them yet but will be
> investigating
> attaching via nut plates instead of rivets. Van's
> thought this was ok when I talked to them - provided
> there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
>
> I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it
> in
> place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
> only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
>
> If you build another solution, I suggest leaving
> space
> for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
> easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
> tweaking or inspection.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
This is a good point. It is a pain in the neck getting that thing adjusted
by having to bend the cable far enough to get the plate to not scratch the
elevator. Nut plates would be a great way to go I think, if they would fit.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Trim Cable Brackets
I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two
replacements from Van's. The new ones are double
welded (both sides of the nut edge) and seem much
stronger. The original ones were welded only on one
edge of the nut in a thin line.
I have not replaced them yet but will be investigating
attaching via nut plates instead of rivets. Van's
thought this was ok when I talked to them - provided
there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it in
place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
If you build another solution, I suggest leaving space
for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
tweaking or inspection.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ned" <923te(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
There are several alloys of stainless steel that are magnetic
>
> Take a magnet to either the nut or the plate. They are both supposed to
> be stainless, if the magnet attaches to one of the pieces then it was
> not stainless....
>
> I had 4 of these in 2 kits.... 1 was all stainless and you could not
> break it, 3 had a ferrous steel plate and you could bend it and it would
> break shortly thereafter... I called Van's, they seemed surprised to
> hear this, but had no problem sending me free replacements.... I think
> you should all check yours out.
> -Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
> Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2005 9:57 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Trim Cable Brackets
>
>
> -->
>
>
> I had one of the nuts break off and I picked up two replacements from
> Van's. The new ones are double welded (both sides of the nut edge) and
> seem much stronger. The original ones were welded only on one edge of
> the nut in a thin line.
>
> I have not replaced them yet but will be investigating attaching via nut
> plates instead of rivets. Van's thought this was ok when I talked to
> them - provided there is enough room (attach plate area is small)
>
> I recall they also mentioned that you can rotate it in
> place with the nut riveted to the access panel but
> only by a bend in the control cable to the limits.
>
> If you build another solution, I suggest leaving space
> for nut plates to attach - This would make it much
> easier to adjust during rigging and also for future
> tweaking or inspection.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim Cable Brackets |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
After all the discussion about K-1000 and K-1100, I'm curious how
everyone knows which is which? They are both -6 nutplates right?
What's the difference?
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
I can imagine it would easy to mistaken K-1000 with K-1100, especially
if you look at these numbers all day long. My replacement also came in
error. So it took 3 times to get the correct ones.
Anh
#141
(on gear)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough <mailto:VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 2:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Interesting my bag had the same ...my number is 388. I don't now
why they call for pops there but on the elevators they also call for
pops where the counterweight skins contacts the main elevator skins.
Don't know why as they are easy to access.
Chris
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: James Hein <mailto:n8vim(at)arrl.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2005 11:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Is there any reason as to why they specift blind rivets
on page 9-15, step 7 ?? It would seem like a good place for normal
rivets, since you can get to both sides very easily.
=09
-Jim 40384, Waiting on receiving K1100-06 nutplates (My
kit came with K1000-06 in the bag for K1100-06, but Van's is sending
replacements )
=09
(Picture attached)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Cable Brackets |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Trim Cable Brackets |
>After all the discussion about K-1000 and K-1100, I'm curious how
>everyone knows which is which? They are both -6 nutplates right?
>What's the difference?
K-1100s are countersink platenuts and K-1000 are not. While the numbers are similar,
they are clearly different in appearance. K-1100 are typically used on
dimpled skins. K-1000s are typically used where there is no need for flush.
If the material you are working with is thick enough however, I guess you could
use a K-1000 with a countersinked hole.
William
#40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Trim Cable Brackets |
Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180
I think the difference is that the 1100's are for a dimpled hole so they are
shaped to accept that. The 1000's are for a hole that will either be
countersunk or not use a flush screw.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
After all the discussion about K-1000 and K-1100, I'm curious how everyone
knows which is which? They are both -6 nutplates right? What's the
difference?
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
I can imagine it would easy to mistaken K-1000 with K-1100, especially if
you look at these numbers all day long. My replacement also came in error.
So it took 3 times to get the correct ones.
Anh
#141
(on gear)
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough <mailto:VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Interesting my bag had the same ...my number is 388. I don't now why they
call for pops there but on the elevators they also call for pops where the
counterweight skins contacts the main elevator skins. Don't know why as they
are easy to access.
Chris
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: James Hein <mailto:n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Cable Brackets
Is there any reason as to why they specift blind rivets on page 9-15, step 7
?? It would seem like a good place for normal rivets, since you can get to
both sides very easily.
-Jim 40384, Waiting on receiving K1100-06 nutplates (My kit came with
K1000-06 in the bag for K1100-06, but Van's is sending replacements )
(Picture attached)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Doesn't seem to be much traffic on the email list so I thought I'd pass
along a few interesting things I found out today for those that are here
yet or couldn't make it at all.
- ECI says it will be about this time next year before their 540 clone
is ready to go.
- Wentworth appears to have a few mid-time (400-900 SMOH) parallel valve
O & IO-540s priced in the $14,500-$16,000 range listed for sale at their
booth.
I purchased my engine through them last summer - was exactly
as advertised. No other connection, just passing along info.
- ECI has a fuel injection system to compete with Precision and AFP -
they say it will be lower cost. Ready late this year.
- Precision has a FADEC engine management system that will be out late
this year or very early next year.
There's a seminar on this later this week that I will
attend.
It replaces the fuel and ignition systems (no mixture lever)
Supposed to also have ability to control the prop governor -
won't be on initial product release though
- Stein has his own version of a composite panel that he'll be producing
at about 1/3 the cost of the AeroCraft (and without the hassles!)
Price will be ~$1000
Available this fall?
You'll be able to buy and wire yourself or have him do
everything
At the moment only the panel portion is worked out - the
armrest part will come next
- Tim your panel looks great! Stein has yours and another sitting in
his booth. Nice opportunity to see the triple Chelton displays triple
GRT displays side by side.
Builder meeting at 10:30 by the RV-10s worked out great - several of us
were there along with some prospective builders. We talked for quite a
while and then took a walk over to look at the 3 customer build -10s
that are here so far.
And for those that missed it, I've attached a picture of the SpaceShip
One arrival for inspiration!
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
Bob,
Thanks for the info. Lycoming's guy will be there tomorrow with the
information on their experimental 540.
Superior said that they do not have and have no plans to have an
experimental 540 like they have the 360.
My comment about meeting builders at the Van's tent is that there are so
many people that it is hard to know who else is a -10 builder. I have an
RV-10 shirt, but can really only wear it 1 day (or 2 at the most). I guess
we will just have to manage this way as well as we can. The ice cream
social tomorrow night should help us to recognize faces a little better. We
have had a few people come by the motor homes, but not many. I sounds like
Tim is going to be pitching a tent right here next to us as well, so that
puts 3 builders together.
On Space Ship 1, I got the privilege of taking a friend to the dentist about
30 minutes before it came in and I got back about 30 minutes after it came
in. Perfect timing to miss one of the things I was looking forward to this
week. I guess a picture of it sitting there will have to do.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Update from OSH
Doesn't seem to be much traffic on the email list so I thought I'd pass
along a few interesting things I found out today for those that are here yet
or couldn't make it at all.
- ECI says it will be about this time next year before their 540 clone is
ready to go.
- Wentworth appears to have a few mid-time (400-900 SMOH) parallel valve O &
IO-540s priced in the $14,500-$16,000 range listed for sale at their booth.
I purchased my engine through them last summer - was exactly as
advertised. No other connection, just passing along info.
- ECI has a fuel injection system to compete with Precision and AFP - they
say it will be lower cost. Ready late this year.
- Precision has a FADEC engine management system that will be out late this
year or very early next year.
There's a seminar on this later this week that I will attend.
It replaces the fuel and ignition systems (no mixture lever)
Supposed to also have ability to control the prop governor -
won't be on initial product release though
- Stein has his own version of a composite panel that he'll be producing at
about 1/3 the cost of the AeroCraft (and without the hassles!)
Price will be ~$1000
Available this fall?
You'll be able to buy and wire yourself or have him do
everything
At the moment only the panel portion is worked out - the armrest
part will come next
- Tim your panel looks great! Stein has yours and another sitting in his
booth. Nice opportunity to see the triple Chelton displays triple GRT
displays side by side.
Builder meeting at 10:30 by the RV-10s worked out great - several of us were
there along with some prospective builders. We talked for quite a while and
then took a walk over to look at the 3 customer build -10s that are here so
far.
And for those that missed it, I've attached a picture of the SpaceShip One
arrival for inspiration!
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Update from OSH |
Bob,
I'm one of those who couldn't make it to OSH this year and I appreciate the
updates. You're right, the e-mail list is a little quiet. Sounds like some
interesting things in development, glad I'm a little behind the " early adopters
" for once my timing may be just right!
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian" <av8er(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Update from OSH |
Hey Bob...
Looking at Precision's WEB site it looks like the FADEC is for the 4 cyl engines.
Is there a six cyl version in the works? Hoping you know the answer following
the seminar...
Thanks for the updates!
Brian Sutherland
Nashville, TN
#40308
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-N104BS
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2005 8:49 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Update from OSH
Doesn't seem to be much traffic on the email list so I thought I'd pass along
a few interesting things I found out today for those that are here yet or couldn't
make it at all.
- ECI says it will be about this time next year before their 540 clone is ready
to go.
- Wentworth appears to have a few mid-time (400-900 SMOH) parallel valve O &
IO-540s priced in the $14,500-$16,000 range listed for sale at their booth.
I purchased my engine through them last summer - was exactly as advertised.
No other connection, just passing along info.
- ECI has a fuel injection system to compete with Precision and AFP - they say
it will be lower cost. Ready late this year.
- Precision has a FADEC engine management system that will be out late this year
or very early next year.
There's a seminar on this later this week that I will attend.
It replaces the fuel and ignition systems (no mixture lever)
Supposed to also have ability to control the prop governor - won't
be on initial product release though
- Stein has his own version of a composite panel that he'll be producing at about
1/3 the cost of the AeroCraft (and without the hassles!)
Price will be ~$1000
Available this fall?
You'll be able to buy and wire yourself or have him do everything
At the moment only the panel portion is worked out - the armrest
part will come next
- Tim your panel looks great! Stein has yours and another sitting in his booth.
Nice opportunity to see the triple Chelton displays triple GRT displays side
by side.
Builder meeting at 10:30 by the RV-10s worked out great - several of us were
there along with some prospective builders. We talked for quite a while and then
took a walk over to look at the 3 customer build -10s that are here so far.
And for those that missed it, I've attached a picture of the SpaceShip One arrival
for inspiration!
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
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b3J0aW9uIGlzIHdvcmtlZCBvdXQg4oCTIHRoZSBhcm1yZXN0IHBhcnQgd2lsbCBjb21lIG5leHQN
Cg0KCQkgDQoNCgkJLSBUaW0geW91ciBwYW5lbCBsb29rcyBncmVhdCEgIFN0ZWluIGhhcyB5b3Vy
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ZSBhbmQgdGhlbiB0b29rIGEgd2FsayBvdmVyIHRvIGxvb2sgYXQgdGhlIDMgY3VzdG9tZXIgYnVp
bGQgLTEwcyB0aGF0IGFyZSBoZXJlIHNvIGZhci4NCg0KCQkgDQoNCgkJQW5kIGZvciB0aG9zZSB0
aGF0IG1pc3NlZCBpdCwgSeKAmXZlIGF0dGFjaGVkIGEgcGljdHVyZSBvZiB0aGUgU3BhY2VTaGlw
IE9uZSBhcnJpdmFsIGZvciBpbnNwaXJhdGlvbiENCg0KCQkgDQoNCgkJQm9iICM0MDEwNQ0KDQoJ
CSANCg0KCQkgDQoNCg==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone think about speed brakes? |
Has anyone thought about adding speed brakes like what are on the mooneys?
-Jim 40384 (Still waiting for those nutplates!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Anyone think about speed brakes? |
Jim ring them about your nutplates as I got them within a week and Im in
Melbourn Australia..
We are leaving for USA (Vans ) Wednesday and staying in the area for a week
.
Chris 388
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hein" <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Anyone think about speed brakes?
>
> Has anyone thought about adding speed brakes like what are on the mooneys?
>
> -Jim 40384 (Still waiting for those nutplates!)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My OSH Apparrel |
www.beagleaviation.com has made up two RV10 logos. The logos are not
posted on their site but I know they have them. Wait after oshkosh and
contact them if you do not want to pay a lot of setup fees.
On Jul 22, 2005, at 11:12 AM, Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>
> Along these lines, if you paid the digital setup fee for the design, I
> would be willing to chip in if you gave me access the file, as is the
> guy here wants $150 setup fee, but if there is enough interest we could
> use your contact and help off set your setup fee based on reusing it
> and
> changing colors.
> Thoughts?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Denk
> Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 9:57 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: My OSH Apparrel
>
>
>> I just got my shirts back that my wife and I will be wearing to OSH.
>> We took the paint scheme and had an embroidery pattern made up and
>> just got our box full of shirts back today.
>>
>> So, when you're looking for us, you'll be able to recognize us.
>> Here's a couple of photos...there are more shirts than are in
>> the photos though.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> Terrific looking shirts! My wife just walked by and sez, "ooh, those
> are
> nice". So, keep the data file handy. I might need it someday.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Drury" <mark(at)skytrans.com.au> |
Just wondering if you guys can give me some clues on this one. R1004A and B form
the bottom rib of the rudder and are joined with an overlap. When I cleco the
skins on the rudder framework the holes in the skin won't line up with the holes
in R1004 because of the overlap. If I force the holes to line up it twists
R1004 to the point that there is no way I could get a rivet in there. Do the
holes need to be drilled to #30 and larger rivets used? What's the solution?
Thanks
Mark Drury
Cairns, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
Mark:
Are you sure that you have "B" on top of "A" (fig 7-4 figure 1)? If I
remember correctly, the holes on B are located in a different plane than
the holes on A - to compensate for mating on the web of A. If backwards,
the holes are then offset such that they will not align correctly. Other
than that - not sure.. Hope that is the problem - then, its an easy
fix:-)
Byron
South Georgia
Almost ready to attach tail to fuselage. # 40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Drury
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder help
Just wondering if you guys can give me some clues on this one. R1004A
and B form the bottom rib of the rudder and are joined with an overlap.
When I cleco the skins on the rudder framework the holes in the skin
won't line up with the holes in R1004 because of the overlap. If I force
the holes to line up it twists R1004 to the point that there is no way I
could get a rivet in there. Do the holes need to be drilled to #30 and
larger rivets used? What's the solution?
Thanks
Mark Drury
Cairns, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Mark I have just done this and all lined up. Check that all the other ribs are
orientated corectly as if you have them on each other incorectly then the problem
you have discribed will happen...
Feel free to ring me Melbourne Aus 03 84053635 0409882215
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Drury
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 7:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder help
Just wondering if you guys can give me some clues on this one. R1004A and B form
the bottom rib of the rudder and are joined with an overlap. When I cleco
the skins on the rudder framework the holes in the skin won't line up with the
holes in R1004 because of the overlap. If I force the holes to line up it twists
R1004 to the point that there is no way I could get a rivet in there. Do the
holes need to be drilled to #30 and larger rivets used? What's the solution?
Thanks
Mark Drury
Cairns, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
Well, I've just finished almost the entire rudder and I know that I did not
have this problem. I also am on a business trip, so don't have the plans,
nor am I at the shop, obviously, so cannot quite remember exactly how things
looked. I do recall that the rivets for joining the A and B are #4's, so
you would us a #30. When I assembled the skins to the skeleton, it went on
just right, so take a good look at the how the A and B are clecoed together.
I've attached three pictures that might be helpful.
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Drury
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder help
Just wondering if you guys can give me some clues on this one. R1004A and B
form the bottom rib of the rudder and are joined with an overlap. When I
cleco the skins on the rudder framework the holes in the skin won't line up
with the holes in R1004 because of the overlap. If I force the holes to line
up it twists R1004 to the point that there is no way I could get a rivet in
there. Do the holes need to be drilled to #30 and larger rivets used? What's
the solution?
Thanks
Mark Drury
Cairns, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Attaching pictures |
Hi Guys just wondering if when we put pictures on the list we can send them small
as 3-4-5 meg pictures is rediculous to download when you are on dialup!! Most
pics can be sent 30 - 40 k.
Absolutely not meant to offend anyone just trying to stop some frustration as we
do not need magazine quality pictures.
Regards Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Anyone think about speed brakes? |
FWIW it never crossed my mind to need speed brakes in my RV-6. I had a
constant speed prop and going high RPM does a pretty effective job of
slowing you down and I would suspect the RV-10 would behave similar. If
not, you can always use the excuse of having to bleed off airspeed to
justify your high-G break turn on initial!
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Anyone think about speed brakes?
Has anyone thought about adding speed brakes like what are on the mooneys?
-Jim 40384 (Still waiting for those nutplates!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Giving kudos when deserved |
Just a quick plug for Avery, and by extension to all the other tool
suppliers who have a high standard of service.
I hadn't used my pneumatic squeezer for several years. When I picked it up
again for use on the RV-10, it just didn't have the right oomph. Finally it
began failing altogether. It was purchased in 2000. Called Avery and they
said it would cost whatever to fix it. Sent it. Bob Avery called to go
over the procedure. Then called to tell me what he found it needed, which
was essentially a once over and the replacement of several parts which were
either missing or worn. I said have at it. Called me again to say it was
done and being shipped. Got here all nice and almost new. Inside the box
was a note. Bob explained what he'd done, then explained that it was "no
charge."
I have no association with Avery or other tool suppliers, such as Cleveland.
I spread my purchases around based on price and recommendation from other
builders. But I do think it's important for us as a group to recognize job
well done, going the extra mile, and so on. Not just for Avery, but for all
those who try hard to deliver good products and services.
Thanks, Bob. Nice job.
John Jessen
#40328. Rudder.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I spent
the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning. What a traveling
machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had the stick in my
hand for 1 =BD hours. The rest of the time it was being flown by the Digiflight
II.
I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from N410RV.
The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders numbers (can't
remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken Kruger talked to
me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his thought that I may have a
rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot on. When we were flying back
from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect the alignment of the flaps and ailerons.
The ailerons are =BC" or more low when the flaps are fully in the up
position. I must not of had the flap all of the way up when I originally set
the aileron alignment. Well I have already talk with Ken since I have gotten
back and he said that it was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an
easy fix. I will fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post
the new speeds. By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent
power. The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2 gph. When we flew to and
from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5 gph. And flew between 9500
and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I
was still there. We had to come home for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy
Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | N410RV Demo Ride PIREP |
report
My wife and I took a demo ride in 410RV at OSH Wednesday morning. Here are a few
impressions and notes from the ride.
1. If you have another option, don't take your demo ride at OSH. It's 40 minutes
of taxi followed by a 10 minutes circle around lake Winnebago. Obviously Oregon
is the best place but Sun-n-Fun would have been a better option IMHO.
2. Ken (Scott?) is not the greatest guy to take a ride with. He was quite visibly
annoyed to have to give demo rides which doesn't do much for potential customers.
It probably doesn't matter as demand for the kit is already high. Still,
if I had been on the fence it would have swayed me the other way.
3. The engine sounded much like my friend's PA-28-235, very throaty. Of course
they're nearly the same engine so that's not surprising.
4. Takeoff roll is VERY short. With 3 of us and presumably full tanks we were off
in just a few hundred feet.
5. Climb rates of ~2000 fpm were pretty easy to achieve with just the 3 of us.
6. Controlling the plane via stick was very natural and the stick forces seemed
well balanced. My buddy's Glasair has a pretty firm stick and is, at least to
me, somewhat annoying. It takes some effort to move the stick and yet even the
slightest movement turns into a 15 degree bank. I'm sure you'd get used to that
but the RV10 just seemed a bit more pleasing.
7. Roll rate is pretty impressive for a 4 seat X-Country machine. Without much
warning from Ken, we went 60 degrees left and then 60 degress right in the span
of a second or two. Although this did little to impress the wife or myself,
I bet it'd take the Warrior about 5-6 seconds to accomplish the same task. I'm
sure the 7s and 8s are quicker but the 10 will do fine if you just want to scare
your non-flying buddies.
8. The plane shakes like a wet dog at the stall. There's just no way you could
mistake that for anything else. Also, despite what Sport Aviation says, the nose
was pretty high. At the break, the plane fell through straight and recovery
was a non-event.
9. I didn't get much out of the landing as he came in at 85-90MPH and held the
nose off the ground for what seemed like 1500 feet. I asked him about it and Ken
said he wouldn't normally land so hot but wanted to get back to the drop off
point quickly. About the only thing I could say is that my Warrior would have
started a slight porpoise landing that fast.
10. All in all a great plane for its mission and not much more than a Archer or
a Dakota.
Well, those are what I remember. Take them for what they are: non-scientific observations
from a doofus. As someone else on this list says "your milage may vary."
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Attaching pictures |
report
I went into Member Village as was able to attach to their wireless. Not at great
speeds (1 or 2 Mbs) but it beat dialing in late at night or waiting in line.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Attaching pictures
Chris,
What's the time frame for getting broadband internet service in Oz???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
Randy,
Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine one
day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000 really 19.2?!!!!! The other numbers
(12.5 & 10.5) make sense but Im hoping the other was a typo.
Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the impact
it has on your speed.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I spent
the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning. What a traveling
machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had the stick in my
hand for 1 hours. The rest of the time it was being flown by the Digiflight
II.
I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from N410RV.
The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders numbers (cant
remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken Kruger talked to
me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his thought that I may have a
rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot on. When we were flying back from
Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect the alignment of the flaps and ailerons.
The ailerons are or more low when the flaps are fully in the up position.
I must not of had the flap all of the way up when I originally set the aileron
alignment. Well I have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back
and he said that it was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy
fix. I will fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the
new speeds. By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power.
The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5 gph.
And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were burning about
10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home for our 30th. High
School Reunion. Randy
Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Comcast" <kenbpeck(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Just back from Osh. |
Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !!
----- Original Message -----
From: <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> Randy,
> Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine
> one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The
> other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a
> typo.
>
> Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the
> impact it has on your speed.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I
> spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning.
> What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had
> the stick in my hand for 1 hours. The rest of the time it was being
> flown by the Digiflight II.
>
> I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from
> N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders
> numbers (can't remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken
> Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his
> thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot
> on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect
> the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are " or more low
> when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap
> all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I
> have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that it
> was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will
> fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds.
> By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power.
> The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
> gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5
> gph. And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were
> burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home
> for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy
>
> Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | N410RV Demo Ride PIREP |
Brian,
Thanks for the words on your ride, too bad the demo pilot forgot the
purpose of the flight and gave you such a poor ride. Regarding your comment
"All in all a great plane for its mission and not much more than a Archer or
a Dakota", don't forget you're comparing prices with a brand new airplane
vs one that's 20-30+ years old.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Subject: RV10-List: N410RV Demo Ride PIREP
My wife and I took a demo ride in 410RV at OSH Wednesday morning. Here are a
few impressions and notes from the ride.
1. If you have another option, don't take your demo ride at OSH. It's 40
minutes of taxi followed by a 10 minutes circle around lake Winnebago.
Obviously Oregon is the best place but Sun-n-Fun would have been a better
option IMHO.
2. Ken (Scott?) is not the greatest guy to take a ride with. He was quite
visibly annoyed to have to give demo rides which doesn't do much for
potential customers. It probably doesn't matter as demand for the kit is
already high. Still, if I had been on the fence it would have swayed me the
other way.
3. The engine sounded much like my friend's PA-28-235, very throaty. Of
course they're nearly the same engine so that's not surprising.
4. Takeoff roll is VERY short. With 3 of us and presumably full tanks we
were off in just a few hundred feet.
5. Climb rates of ~2000 fpm were pretty easy to achieve with just the 3 of
us.
6. Controlling the plane via stick was very natural and the stick forces
seemed well balanced. My buddy's Glasair has a pretty firm stick and is, at
least to me, somewhat annoying. It takes some effort to move the stick and
yet even the slightest movement turns into a 15 degree bank. I'm sure you'd
get used to that but the RV10 just seemed a bit more pleasing.
7. Roll rate is pretty impressive for a 4 seat X-Country machine. Without
much warning from Ken, we went 60 degrees left and then 60 degress right in
the span of a second or two. Although this did little to impress the wife or
myself, I bet it'd take the Warrior about 5-6 seconds to accomplish the same
task. I'm sure the 7s and 8s are quicker but the 10 will do fine if you just
want to scare your non-flying buddies.
8. The plane shakes like a wet dog at the stall. There's just no way you
could mistake that for anything else. Also, despite what Sport Aviation
says, the nose was pretty high. At the break, the plane fell through
straight and recovery was a non-event.
9. I didn't get much out of the landing as he came in at 85-90MPH and held
the nose off the ground for what seemed like 1500 feet. I asked him about it
and Ken said he wouldn't normally land so hot but wanted to get back to the
drop off point quickly. About the only thing I could say is that my Warrior
would have started a slight porpoise landing that fast.
10. All in all a great plane for its mission and not much more than a Archer
or a Dakota.
Well, those are what I remember. Take them for what they are: non-scientific
observations from a doofus. As someone else on this list says "your milage
may vary."
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per HP. I have
a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75% power 195 hp
to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you will use about 14.5
per hour. That is the facts.
Now you don't get economy from flying at 8000 ft. at 75% power. You need to get
high 13,500 14,500 or higher or pull back to 55% or even 45% power. Your economy
will be much better like 11.5 or 10.5 gph. I was at 13,500 going to Oshkosh
and was traveling just fine with 3 RV4's at 10.5 ghp. Calculate into the cost
of the plane an OXY system of some kind and get some altitude. For local trips
I like to pull back the power to 19 in. or so and cruse along at 12.5 gph
and look out the window. I am sill traveling at 145 knots or so.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !!
----- Original Message -----
From: <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>o
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> Randy,
> Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine
> one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The
> other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a
> typo.
>
> Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the
> impact it has on your speed.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I
> spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning.
> What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had
> the stick in my hand for 1 hours. The rest of the time it was being
> flown by the Digiflight II.
>
> I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from
> N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders
> numbers (can't remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken
> Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his
> thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot
> on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect
> the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are " or more low
> when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap
> all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I
> have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that it
> was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will
> fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds.
> By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power.
> The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
> gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5
> gph. And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were
> burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home
> for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy
>
> Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I also found out something on Sat. I have one flap that will go up slightly more
than the other. One ends up flush with the bottom of the fuse and the other
will be up higher than that by 3/16". I called and they are not sure which one
is the correct one. Ken will get back to me and I will pass it on. I can't adjust
the ailerons until I know the flaps are correct. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of coop85(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Randy,
Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine one
day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The other numbers
(12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a typo.
Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the impact
it has on your speed.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I spent
the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning. What a traveling
machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had the stick in my
hand for 1 hours. The rest of the time it was being flown by the Digiflight
II.
I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from N410RV.
The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders numbers (can't
remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken Kruger talked to
me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his thought that I may have a
rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot on. When we were flying back
from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect the alignment of the flaps and ailerons.
The ailerons are " or more low when the flaps are fully in the up position.
I must not of had the flap all of the way up when I originally set the
aileron alignment. Well I have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back
and he said that it was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy
fix. I will fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the
new speeds. By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent
power. The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5 gph.
And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were burning about
10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home for our 30th. High
School Reunion. Randy
Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Actually that would be 1450 miles in a day. Several RV6 guys from this area made
it in 9 hours from here to Osh. I would expect it will be 12 hours on the return
leg because of opposing winds. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of coop85(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Randy,
Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine one
day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The other numbers
(12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a typo.
Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the impact
it has on your speed.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I spent
the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning. What a traveling
machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had the stick in my
hand for 1 hours. The rest of the time it was being flown by the Digiflight
II.
I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from N410RV.
The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders numbers (can't
remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken Kruger talked to
me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his thought that I may have a
rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot on. When we were flying back
from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect the alignment of the flaps and ailerons.
The ailerons are " or more low when the flaps are fully in the up position.
I must not of had the flap all of the way up when I originally set the
aileron alignment. Well I have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back
and he said that it was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy
fix. I will fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the
new speeds. By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent
power. The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5 gph.
And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were burning about
10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home for our 30th. High
School Reunion. Randy
Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | RE: N410RV Demo Ride PIREP |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
<2. Ken (Scott?) is not the greatest guy to take a ride with. He was quite
visibly annoyed to have to give demo rides which doesn't do much for
potential customers. It probably doesn't matter as demand for the kit is
already high. Still, if I had been on the fence it would have swayed me the
other way.>
Sorry to hear of your experience. My wife and I would have said the opposite!
Between the 2 of us, we've had (don't tell anyone) 3 flights in 2 different aircraft.
Maybe he was more "fun" since we did it at the factory... AS for swaying,
with all that this kit has going for it, it would take either lack of research
on my part or something bigger than Ken Scott to push me towards a different
aircraft. Hopefully you'll get input from the builders who have finished
and are reaping their rewards of hard work.
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Brcue Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
You might be surprised at what you will gain when the flaps and ailerons are right.
I flew my RV-6A for about 300 hours with the ailerons about 3/16 out of
trim. At the fourth annual, I ran across my top wing templates and decided to
check everything out. Discovered error and reset the right aileron.
Picked up 4 knots.
Bruce Patton
Randy DeBauw wrote:
I also found out something on Sat. I have one flap that will go up slightly more
than the other. One ends up flush with the bottom of the fuse and the other
will be up higher than that by 3/16". I called and they are not sure which one
is the correct one. Ken will get back to me and I will pass it on. I can't adjust
the ailerons until I know the flaps are correct. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of coop85(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Randy,
Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine one day.
One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The other numbers
(12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a typo.
Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the impact
it has on your speed.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I spent
the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning. What a traveling
machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had the stick in my
hand for 1 hours. The rest of the time it was being flown by the Digiflight II.
I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from N410RV.
The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders numbers (can't
remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken Kruger talked to
me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his thought that I may have a rigging
problem with the ailerons. He was spot on. When we were flying back from
Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect the alignment of the flaps and ailerons.
The ailerons are " or more low when the flaps are fully in the up position.
I must not of had the flap all of the way up when I originally set the aileron
alignment. Well I have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he
said that it was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix.
I will fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds.
By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power. The
fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5 gph. And
flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were burning about 10.5
gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home for our 30th. High School
Reunion. Randy
Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | OshKosh Pictures - Comments - Long |
All I can say is WOW! The first completed -10's were VERY NICE!. All of the -10's
I saw, the workmanship and attention to detail was fantastic. They really
set a high bar for the rest of us to follow.
Having not flown in one is killing me, but I will get there soon enough.
Especially want to thank Gary and Brenda for letting be invade their campsite for
the two nights I was there. If you all ever get through Lexington, you must
let me know! Meeting with several of the other builders was great too! ( Tim,
Jesse, Others who I just didn't spend enough time with).
I have posted my pictures to my web site (www.infra-read.com).
Several comments to make:
- I was surprised at the number of first time builders. I highly encourage you
to get in contact with a tech counselor WHILE you are building. They are a wealth
of knowledge and their visits are free.
It will make a difference in the quality of workmanship (and safety) of your finished
airplane.
- I loved the landing lights Randy had on his aircraft!
- Discussions were had on organizing rivets and bolts. I went to Walmart and back
in the crafts section you can get plastic organizers that are great for holding
those parts. I have one for rivets, one for pop rivets, one for AN3 bolts
and another for AN4 bolts and nuts. Inexpensive and they work well. I also
use a plastic peanut butter lid to hold rivets as I am doing a large rivet job
using same size rivets.
- I was NOT successful at finding a 540 kit engine. seems the Lycoming announcement
was not really for a "kit" engine. They still require a builder on their
list to do the final assembly. I talked to one of their "Final Assemblers"
who told me that Lycoming would have a 120 lead then he needed a week to build,
and ship. Looks like I am really going to have to do a serious search for an
engine.
- Tim's panel (and Engine) were on display at OshKosh. It's a really tough decision.
There are so many options for the homebuilt experimental these days.
I watched someone walk up to Tims panel and ask if that could be put into his
Bonanza. The reply that it could only used in an experimental aircraft did not
put a smile on his face. He commented that the certified aircraft industry
is being left out of the progress being made in aviation. So sad!
Anyway, Great trip!
Thanks to Gary, Brenda, Randy, Tim, Jesse, All the others!
Jim Combs
#40192 - Fuselage
N312F
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: N410RV Demo Ride PIREP |
report
3 flights?!?! I knew I should have tried that. Oh well.
As a point of clarification, I was sold on the 10 before the flight and the
demo didn't change that. I just bring it up for anyone who isn't as sure of
what kit they might want. If that's the situation, my advice is to get your
demo ride somewhere other than OSH. It's just too hectic and the Vans staff
too busy. Also, I don't mean to bad mouth ken . He seemed like a
decent guy, just not overly friendly and perhaps not the best choice for
demo pilot.
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge(at)att.net>
Subject: RV10-List: RE: N410RV Demo Ride PIREP
>
> <2. Ken (Scott?) is not the greatest guy to take a ride with. He was quite
> visibly annoyed to have to give demo rides which doesn't do much for
> potential customers. It probably doesn't matter as demand for the kit is
> already high. Still, if I had been on the fence it would have swayed me
> the
> other way.>
>
> Sorry to hear of your experience. My wife and I would have said the
> opposite! Between the 2 of us, we've had (don't tell anyone) 3 flights in
> 2 different aircraft. Maybe he was more "fun" since we did it at the
> factory... AS for swaying, with all that this kit has going for it, it
> would take either lack of research on my part or something bigger than Ken
> Scott to push me towards a different aircraft. Hopefully you'll get input
> from the builders who have finished and are reaping their rewards of hard
> work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Drury" <mark(at)skytrans.com.au> |
Just to update everyone, especially people who have just purchased a kit. I sent
an email off to Van's with some photo's of the problem. They checked parts in
stock and found that they have made a bad batch of R1004A/B's, so I'm being
sent a new one. I think it would be advisable if you've purchased a kit in the
last month or so to check that piece when you get to it and ring for a new one
if you have problems lining up the punched holes in the R1004A/B flange with
the rudder skin.
Mark Drury
Cairns, Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Parts Not Lining Up |
Mark's post about R1004A/B parts not lining up, and his discovery that a bad batch
was made at Van's, should be something that all current and future RV-10 builders
remember.
Van's pre-punched CAD produced parts, unless there is a bad batch, should line
up perfectly every time on every part. If two parts don't line up and a builder
has double checked the plans and parts to insure they are being put together
correctly DON'T assume they are correct. First question ought to be could the
CAD machine have produced a bad batch. Mistakes happen, not only by the builder
but also by computer assisted drafting machines.
To date I have yet to find any mis-matches on my RV-10, which is sitting on the
main gear.
Russ Daves
#40044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh info |
They told me they sold the 10 airframe. They seem to just keep changing
direction and not getting there.............. Been following them about 3 or
4
years now.
Doug Preston
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Precision Silver Hawk EX Fuel Injection. |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com> |
I am currently in the process of finalizing the spec's for
my IO-540. I was thinking about upgrading from the Bendix Fuel
Injection to the Precision Silver Hawk Ex. If I do this, what would be
the actual kit number for the Silver Hawk EX for the IO-540 on the
RV-10. Which of the following would it be? The rotation is the part
I'm not sure of. Also, are any of the flying RV-10's using this Fuel
Injection system?
KIT #EX540-1
Application:
Lycoming O-540 and IO-540 parallel valve engines with 235-260 HP
Continental O-470 engines
Contains the following:
1ea Servo P/N 3015006-1 (See Note #1)
1ea Flow Divider P/N 3015004-1
6ea Nozzle P/N 2524864-2
=09
KIT #EX540-2
Application:
Lycoming O-540 and IO-540 parallel valve engines with 235-260 HP
Continental O-470 engines
Contains the following:
1ea Servo P/N 3015012-1 (See Note #2)
1ea Flow Divider P/N 3015004-1
6ea Nozzle P/N 2524864-2
=09
Note #2 -- Alternate Rotation Mixture
First option. This configuration is primarily aimed at Vans aircraft RV
installations.
Throttle shaft rotates counterclockwise from idle to full throttle when
viewed from the lever end.
Mixture shaft rotates counterclockwise from idle cut off to full rich
when viewed from the lever end.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
Randy,
At 19.5 gph you only have a 3 hour range ~ 600 miles. Thats below the range numbers
that Van's is stating. Are you running at a high rpm? If you look at the
operating manual for the IO540, fuel consumption at the same power level varies
greatly with rpm. So if you want efficiency you need to stay at the lowest
rpm the operating manual allows you. During my talks with Aerosport they had
indicated that with the electronic ignition and low power settings (50% or
so) you would be under 10gph maybe around 9gph.
Niko
Randy DeBauw wrote:
Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per HP. I have
a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75% power 195 hp to
be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you will use about 14.5
per hour. That is the facts.
Now you don't get economy from flying at 8000 ft. at 75% power. You need to get
high 13,500 14,500 or higher or pull back to 55% or even 45% power. Your economy
will be much better like 11.5 or 10.5 gph. I was at 13,500 going to Oshkosh
and was traveling just fine with 3 RV4's at 10.5 ghp. Calculate into the cost
of the plane an OXY system of some kind and get some altitude. For local trips
I like to pull back the power to 19 in. or so and cruse along at 12.5 gph and
look out the window. I am sill traveling at 145 knots or so.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !!
----- Original Message -----
From: o
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> Randy,
> Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine
> one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The
> other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a
> typo.
>
> Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the
> impact it has on your speed.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I
> spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning.
> What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had
> the stick in my hand for 1 hours. The rest of the time it was being
> flown by the Digiflight II.
>
> I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from
> N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders
> numbers (can't remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken
> Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his
> thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot
> on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect
> the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are " or more low
> when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap
> all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I
> have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that it
> was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will
> fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds.
> By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power.
> The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
> gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5
> gph. And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were
> burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home
> for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy
>
> Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
;
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Priming of Steel Parts |
I am wondering what people are doing about priming the inside of the steel tubes
in the kit. These would be in the aileron and flap controls systems, landing
gear etc. IThe outside is powder coated, but is anyone priming the inside of
these tubes? If you are how? I am trying to decide on what to do myself.
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Precision Silver Hawk EX Fuel Injection. |
SSA)"
Ray,
The Silverhawk EX isn't really an upgrade from the Bendix system - it's
the same thing but for experimental. As far as which part number - I'd
call one of the resellers like Mattituck to order and ask them. You
will probably get the same price but they'll include extras like the
engine driven fuel pump and a couple hoses that don't come with the kit
if you order straight from Precision.
The Silverhawk is what Aerosport puts on all of the engines that it
builds - there were 3 in their tent including Tim Olson's.
Bob #40105
_____
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: Precision Silver Hawk EX Fuel Injection.
I am currently in the process of finalizing the spec's for
my IO-540. I was thinking about upgrading from the Bendix Fuel
Injection to the Precision Silver Hawk Ex. If I do this, what would be
the actual kit number for the Silver Hawk EX for the IO-540 on the
RV-10. Which of the following would it be? The rotation is the part
I'm not sure of. Also, are any of the flying RV-10's using this Fuel
Injection system?
KIT #EX540-1
Application:
Lycoming O-540 and IO-540 parallel valve engines with 235-260 HP
Continental O-470 engines
Contains the following:
1ea Servo P/N 3015006-1 (See Note #1)
1ea Flow Divider P/N 3015004-1
6ea Nozzle P/N 2524864-2
KIT #EX540-2
Application:
Lycoming O-540 and IO-540 parallel valve engines with 235-260 HP
Continental O-470 engines
Contains the following:
1ea Servo P/N 3015012-1 (See Note #2)
1ea Flow Divider P/N 3015004-1
6ea Nozzle P/N 2524864-2
Note #2 -- Alternate Rotation Mixture
First option. This configuration is primarily aimed at Vans aircraft RV
installations.
Throttle shaft rotates counterclockwise from idle to full throttle when
viewed from the lever end.
Mixture shaft rotates counterclockwise from idle cut off to full rich
when viewed from the lever end.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Priming of Steel Parts |
I sprayed them with primer just as all the other parts, but
flooded it in and then spun and shook it to distribute the
primer. It wouldn't be pretty inside,but it should be
covered at least. Cleaned with Acetone first.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> I am wondering what people are doing about priming the inside of the
> steel tubes in the kit. These would be in the aileron and flap controls
> systems, landing gear etc. IThe outside is powder coated, but is anyone
> priming the inside of these tubes? If you are how? I am trying to
> decide on what to do myself.
>
> Niko
> 40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Precision Silver Hawk EX Fuel Injection. |
Bart at Aerosport told me basically the same thing....Precision
bought Bendix, or the other way around, but either way, it's
basically the same stuff. I don't know how the rotation needs
to be, but I would guess that Bart would have had it built
properly, since they knew the system was for an RV-10.
Got the engine picked up from Aerosport Friday, and assembled
my engine hoist and pulled it out from my van Sunday. Man
it's nice to have that sitting in my garage. Hopefully it'll
be installed soon. Beautiful piece of machinery.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Fuselage
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> Ray,
>
>
>
> The Silverhawk EX isnt really an upgrade from the Bendix system its
> the same thing but for experimental. As far as which part number Id
> call one of the resellers like Mattituck to order and ask them. You
> will probably get the same price but theyll include extras like the
> engine driven fuel pump and a couple hoses that dont come with the kit
> if you order straight from Precision.
>
>
>
> The Silverhawk is what Aerosport puts on all of the engines that it
> builds there were 3 in their tent including Tim Olsons.
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Doerr, Ray
> R [NTK]
> *Sent:* Monday, August 01, 2005 9:11 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Precision Silver Hawk EX Fuel Injection.
>
>
>
> I am currently in the process of finalizing the specs for
> my IO-540. I was thinking about upgrading from the Bendix Fuel
> Injection to the Precision Silver Hawk Ex. If I do this, what would be
> the actual kit number for the Silver Hawk EX for the IO-540 on the
> RV-10. Which of the following would it be? The rotation is the part
> Im not sure of. Also, are any of the flying RV-10s using this Fuel
> Injection system?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *KIT #EX540-1*
>
> Application:
>
>
>
> Lycoming O-540 and IO-540 parallel valve engines with 235-260 HP
>
>
>
>
>
> Continental O-470 engines
>
> Contains the following:
>
>
>
>
>
> 1ea Servo P/N 3015006-1 (See Note #1)
>
>
>
>
>
> 1ea Flow Divider P/N 3015004-1
>
>
>
>
>
> 6ea Nozzle P/N 2524864-2
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> * *
>
> *KIT #EX540-2*
>
> Application:
>
>
>
> Lycoming O-540 and IO-540 parallel valve engines with 235-260 HP
>
>
>
>
>
> Continental O-470 engines
>
> Contains the following:
>
>
>
>
>
> 1ea Servo P/N 3015012-1 (See Note #2)
>
>
>
>
>
> 1ea Flow Divider P/N 3015004-1
>
>
>
>
>
> 6ea Nozzle P/N 2524864-2
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> * *
>
> Note #2 -- Alternate Rotation Mixture
>
> First option. This configuration is primarily aimed at Vans aircraft RV
> installations.
>
>
>
> Throttle shaft rotates *counterclockwise* from idle to full throttle
> when viewed from the lever end.
>
>
>
> Mixture shaft rotates *counterclockwise* from idle cut off to full rich
> when viewed from the lever end.
>
> * *
>
>
>
>
>
> Thank You
> *Ray Doerr*
> 40250
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I just saw that both Colorado RV-10s took home awards:
OUTSTANDING WORKMANSHIP - KIT BUILT
Larry Feldhousen, Burlington, CO - RV-10, N104LJ
BRONZE LINDY KIT BUILT
John Stewart, Burlington, CO - RV-10, N104ME
http://www.airventure.org/2005/sunjuly31/awards.html
Congratulations to both - planes were beautiful!
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
Sausen)"
Hmm, if Innodyn is really pulling off 7 gph/100hp it's not looking so bad anymore
with 18.2 gph at 260hp. Of course you can forget insurance with an experimental
turbine.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wings
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per HP. I have
a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75% power 195 hp
to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you will use about 14.5
per hour. That is the facts.
Now you don't get economy from flying at 8000 ft. at 75% power. You need to get
high 13,500 14,500 or higher or pull back to 55% or even 45% power. Your economy
will be much better like 11.5 or 10.5 gph. I was at 13,500 going to Oshkosh
and was traveling just fine with 3 RV4's at 10.5 ghp. Calculate into the cost
of the plane an OXY system of some kind and get some altitude. For local trips
I like to pull back the power to 19 in. or so and cruse along at 12.5 gph
and look out the window. I am sill traveling at 145 knots or so.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !!
----- Original Message -----
From: <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>o
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> Randy,
> Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine
> one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The
> other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a
> typo.
>
> Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the
> impact it has on your speed.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I
> spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning.
> What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had
> the stick in my hand for 1 =BD hours. The rest of the time it was being
> flown by the Digiflight II.
>
> I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from
> N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders
> numbers (can't remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken
> Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his
> thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot
> on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect
> the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are =BC" or more low
> when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap
> all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I
> have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that it
> was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will
> fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds.
> By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power.
> The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
> gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5
> gph. And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were
> burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home
> for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy
>
> Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
You can also probably forget what their publishing until they put out some real
life numbers - they've been flying in at least 1 factory owned 2 place RV for
over a year and have yet to publish real HP, fuel burn & speed info. Not saying
that their claims are false, just that proof hasn't been published yet.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Hmm, if Innodyn is really pulling off 7 gph/100hp it's not looking so bad anymore
with 18.2 gph at 260hp. Of course you can forget insurance with an experimental
turbine.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per HP. I have
a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75% power 195 hp
to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you will use about 14.5
per hour. That is the facts.
Now you don't get economy from flying at 8000 ft. at 75% power. You need to get
high 13,500 14,500 or higher or pull back to 55% or even 45% power. Your economy
will be much better like 11.5 or 10.5 gph. I was at 13,500 going to Oshkosh
and was traveling just fine with 3 RV4's at 10.5 ghp. Calculate into the cost
of the plane an OXY system of some kind and get some altitude. For local trips
I like to pull back the power to 19 in. or so and cruse along at 12.5 gph
and look out the window. I am sill traveling at 145 knots or so.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !!
----- Original Message -----
From: <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>o
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> Randy,
> Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine
> one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!! The
> other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a
> typo.
>
> Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the
> impact it has on your speed.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and I
> spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning.
> What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only had
> the stick in my hand for 1 =BD hours. The rest of the time it was being
> flown by the Digiflight II.
>
> I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds from
> N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders
> numbers (can't remember who) were also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken
> Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his
> thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot
> on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect
> the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are =BC" or more low
> when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap
> all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I
> have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that it
> was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will
> fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds.
> By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power.
> The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
> gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5
> gph. And flew between 9500 and 13500 all the way. At 13500 we were
> burning about 10.5 gph. I wish I was still there. We had to come home
> for our 30th. High School Reunion. Randy
>
> Ps. Thanks Tim and Andrea for the nice time. Randy and Cheryl DeBauw
>
>
RV10-List Email Forum -
bsp;
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Vans does all tests at 2500 rpm. I was getting between 9.5 and 10.5 at 45% power
on the way to Oshkosh. The power chart for the IO540 that Tim put on his site
shows a fuel burn of 10 to 12 gph at 55%. Your 50% is in line with what Aero
Sport told you. Your speed will down as well. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
Randy,
At 19.5 gph you only have a 3 hour range ~ 600 miles. Thats below the range numbers
that Van's is stating. Are you running at a high rpm? If you look at the
operating manual for the IO540, fuel consumption at the same power level varies
greatly with rpm. So if you want efficiency you need to stay at the lowest
rpm the operating manual allows you. During my talks with Aerosport they had
indicated that with the electronic ignition and low power settings (50% or
so) you would be under 10gph maybe around 9gph.
Niko
Randy DeBauw wrote:
=09
Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per
HP. I have
a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75% power 195 hp
to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you will use about 14.5
per hour. That is the facts.
Now you don't get economy from flying at 8000 ft. at 75% power. You need
to get
high 13,500 14,500 or higher or pull back to 55% or even 45% power. Your economy
will be much better like 11.5 or 10.5 gph. I was at 13,500 going to Oshkosh
and was traveling just fine with 3 RV4's at 10.5 ghp. Calculate into the cost
of the plane an OXY system of some kind and get some altitude. For local trips
I like to pull back the power to 19 in. or so and cruse along at 12.5 gph
and look out the window. I am sill traveling at 145 knots or so.
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 7:04 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
=09
=09
Yeah, PLEASE tell us that's a typo !!
----- Original Message -----
From: o
To:
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2005 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
=09
=09
>
> Randy,
> Thanks for the update, I look forward to a 2900nm flight in my machine
> one day. One question, was the fuel burn at 8,000' really 19.2?!!!!!
The
> other numbers (12.5 & 10.5) make sense but I'm hoping the other was a
> typo.
>
> Good luck with the aileron tweak, should be interesting to find out the
> impact it has on your speed.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
>
> I just returned 2 hours ago from Oshkosh and all went well. My wife and
I
> spent the night in Helena Mt. and flew in the final leg this morning.
> What a traveling machine. I think in the 2900 hundred mile trip I only
had
> the stick in my hand for 1 =BD hours. The rest of the time it was being
> flown by the Digiflight II.
>
> I have the numbers that will be announced on my speed and some speeds
from
> N410RV. The latest numbers for Vans plane is 208 mph One other builders
> numbers (can't remember who) we re also 208 mph. Mine was only 198. Ken
> Kruger talked to me at Oshkosh and gave me the numbers. It was his
> thought that I may have a rigging problem with the ailerons. He was spot
> on. When we were flying back from Oshkosh I had plenty of time to inspect
> the alignment of the flaps and ailerons. The ailerons are =BC" or more
low
> when the flaps are fully in the up position. I must not of had the flap
> all of the way up when I originally set the aileron alignment. Well I
> have already talk with Ken since I have gotten back and he said that
it
> was a guess on his part but was glad to hear it was an easy fix. I will
> fly with him again after the adjustments are made and post the new speeds.
> By the way that was at 8000 ft adjusted altitude and 75 percent power.
> The fuel burn at the setting is about 19.2
> gph. When we flew to and from Oshkosh I would say we averaged about 12.5
> gph. A nd flew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
Yes, Both were very nicely done!
Congratulations!
Jim C
#40192
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2005 10:57:15 -0700
I just saw that both Colorado RV-10s took home awards:
OUTSTANDING WORKMANSHIP - KIT BUILT
Larry Feldhousen, Burlington, CO - RV-10, N104LJ
BRONZE LINDY KIT BUILT
John Stewart, Burlington, CO - RV-10, N104ME
http://www.airventure.org/2005/sunjuly31/awards.html
Congratulations to both - planes were beautiful!
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Just back from Osh. |
> Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal per
> HP. I have a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At 75%
> power 195 hp to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power you
> will use about 14.5 per hour. That is the facts.
This appears to contradict the Lycoming operator's manual for the IO-540.
The Lycoming operator's manual for the IO-540, page 3-35, shows that at
75% power, leaned to best economy (peak EGT), the fuel burn is between
13.6 and 14.9 gph, depending on engine RPM. At 75% power leaned to best
power (150 degrees rich of peak EGT) the fuel flow is shown between 15.8
and 17.4 gph, depending on RPM. This is for an IO-540-D (or -N, -R, -T,
-V), 8.5:1 compression, Bendix injection, manual leaning.
You can see the Lycoming operating manual page at
<http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/engine/fuel_flow.pdf> .
As far as I know, these numbers are valid regardless of altitude,
depending only on leaning technique and engine RPM.
Randy, what leaning technique did you use? I wonder if leaning
technique helps explain the significantly higher than expected fuel burn
you reported at 75% power.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 760 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Just back from Osh. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Well I leaned to peak power which according to Lycoming's "Key Reprints"
on page 41 second column shows that peek power is 100 deg rich of peek
egt. That is what we ran to do the tests. I also re-read the key
reprints again and found out that as long as you are at 75% power or
below you can lean to peek egt and in fact they recommend running at
peek egt if you are looking for best fuel economy. I have not been
running the engine at peek egt. I have been running at 50 deg rich to
150 deg rich of peek. I will be going on a trip this weekend that should
take 1.5 hours to get there. I will report back my cruise speed and gph
when I get back. Also I will report back any thing I notice after the
re-adjustment of the ailerons. I talked to someone today that told me
that it is an old trick to raise the ailerons above the flaps by about
3/16" to gain speed. I can't wait to get the new numbers.
First reports from someone with a MT Prop was not that good. Stay
tuned. Everyone that I have talked to that changed to a 3 blade prop
said that it was smoother and climbed better but that it was slower.
That seems to be holding up. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just back from Osh.
> Nope, speed cost money. To run any engine it will use about .1 gal
per
> HP. I have a 260 hp engine and it will use 26 gph at full power. At
75%
> power 195 hp to be exact you will use 19.5 gph roughly. At 55% power
you
> will use about 14.5 per hour. That is the facts.
This appears to contradict the Lycoming operator's manual for the
IO-540.
The Lycoming operator's manual for the IO-540, page 3-35, shows that at
75% power, leaned to best economy (peak EGT), the fuel burn is between
13.6 and 14.9 gph, depending on engine RPM. At 75% power leaned to best
power (150 degrees rich of peak EGT) the fuel flow is shown between 15.8
and 17.4 gph, depending on RPM. This is for an IO-540-D (or -N, -R, -T,
-V), 8.5:1 compression, Bendix injection, manual leaning.
You can see the Lycoming operating manual page at
<http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/engine/fuel_flow.pdf> .
As far as I know, these numbers are valid regardless of altitude,
depending only on leaning technique and engine RPM.
Randy, what leaning technique did you use? I wonder if leaning
technique helps explain the significantly higher than expected fuel burn
you reported at 75% power.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 760 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder trailing edge |
I have been sweating the "beware causing the rudder trailing edge to hook,"
and sure enough I think I've got a hook. I randomized setting the rivets, I
looked at the leading edge repeatedly (but I did this by standing the rudder
upright and taking steps back to eyeball it; I also used a straightedge
along the edge), but when I finally sighted down the edge after setting all
the rivets on one side, there was a slight "hook" at the top.
I still have to set the rivets from the other side with the mushroom set.
Before I do this, anyone have any suggestions as to how to work the slight
bend out? I don't even know if what I see as a "hook" is worth mentioning,
but I think it is.
John Jessen
#40328 Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder trailing edge |
I said "leading" edge below, but meant "trailing" edge.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trailing edge
I have been sweating the "beware causing the rudder trailing edge to hook,"
and sure enough I think I've got a hook. I randomized setting the rivets, I
looked at the leading edge repeatedly (but I did this by standing the rudder
upright and taking steps back to eyeball it; I also used a straightedge
along the edge), but when I finally sighted down the edge after setting all
the rivets on one side, there was a slight "hook" at the top.
I still have to set the rivets from the other side with the mushroom set.
Before I do this, anyone have any suggestions as to how to work the slight
bend out? I don't even know if what I see as a "hook" is worth mentioning,
but I think it is.
John Jessen
#40328 Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trailing edge |
If it's slight, perhaps it will come out when you set the rivets on
the other side. I'm not sure what else to tell you though. Who knows,
maybe it's hooked in a way that will cut down on the amount of rudder
trim you need.
Good luck,
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Jessen wrote:
>
> I have been sweating the "beware causing the rudder trailing edge to hook,"
> and sure enough I think I've got a hook. I randomized setting the rivets, I
> looked at the leading edge repeatedly (but I did this by standing the rudder
> upright and taking steps back to eyeball it; I also used a straightedge
> along the edge), but when I finally sighted down the edge after setting all
> the rivets on one side, there was a slight "hook" at the top.
>
> I still have to set the rivets from the other side with the mushroom set.
> Before I do this, anyone have any suggestions as to how to work the slight
> bend out? I don't even know if what I see as a "hook" is worth mentioning,
> but I think it is.
>
> John Jessen
> #40328 Rudder
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
Greetings everyone. Well Oshkosh was too much and I made the plunge purchasing
a RV-10 tail kit. I am customer # 40446. Does that mean 446 RV-10 tail kits
have been sold? I ordered on Wednesday and the tail shipped Thursday. Pretty
snappy service.
Other news gleaned from Oshkosh. ECI indicates that they are much closer than
one year away from producing a 540 engine kit. I am already in the debate cycle
as the best route to go and leaning towards doing my own overhaul of a 540.
Inodyn apparently approached Vans about building a demonstrator aircraft with their
turbine and Vans said they were not interested so you may have noticed that
Inodyn then trotted over to Lancair where a mockup was on display. I work
with Allison gas turbines and frankly the published numbers from Inodyn seem pretty
far off the mark. Granted FADEC can make some noticeable improvements but
it is not that magic!
Well I have now entered the fantasy panel mode for the RV-10 as I fall to sleep,
should be an interesting few years.
Bruce Case
616 South Madison Street
Stoughton, WI. 53589
telephone: 608-215-3776
e-mail: pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Bruce,
It does indeed mean that you've got the 446th tail kit produced/shipped.
I think that they keep a few of these on hand to ship, but there's
generally a wait time on the other kits. Van's also departed a bit from
tradition this year and left sufficient staff back in Oregon to process
orders during OSH.
You'll probably see some enterprising folks put something other than a
Lycoming in their RV-10, but it won't be with factory support or
endorsement. There's continued talk of a Subaru, Deltahawk, Mistral,
LS1, etc. Last year Innodyn was promising that they'd have a full
firewall forward kit soon for the RV-10 but apparently sold the plane
that they were going to use for development of that. Of all the
alternate engines for RVs (all models), only the Subaru seems to have
any traction and that's because folks like Eggenfeller have developed
very nice, complete firewall forward packages - and the engines are
solid. But even that seems to be off in the future "some time" for the
RV-10.
You've got a while before you need to commit on the engine - just enjoy
the building process!
Bob #40105
Finishing fuselage, waiting for finish kit.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case
Subject: RV10-List: New Builder
Greetings everyone. Well Oshkosh was too much and I made the plunge
purchasing a RV-10 tail kit. I am customer # 40446. Does that mean 446
RV-10 tail kits have been sold? I ordered on Wednesday and the tail
shipped Thursday. Pretty snappy service.
Other news gleaned from Oshkosh. ECI indicates that they are much
closer than one year away from producing a 540 engine kit. I am already
in the debate cycle as the best route to go and leaning towards doing my
own overhaul of a 540.
July 14, 2005 - August 02, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-an