RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ap
August 16, 2005 - August 28, 2005
Anyone installing a Mode-S Xponder? Tony Sustare alerted me on some 60 stations already shutdown in the East Coast and possibly more to come. Further info at http://www.surecheckaviation.com/ .
Also, I would appreciate any insight that you may have on the TrafficScope VRX
as an alternative. It sells for $795 and works off of other aircraft transponder
pings.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown |
I have a Monroy in my RV-4. It works great and I would recommend it.
-Mike Kraus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown
Anyone installing a Mode-S Xponder? Tony Sustare alerted me on some 60
stations already shutdown in the East Coast and possibly more to come.
Further info at http://www.surecheckaviation.com/ .
Also, I would appreciate any insight that you may have on the
TrafficScope VRX as an alternative. It sells for $795 and works off of
other aircraft transponder pings.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
Table 5' x 12'
Frame built into table and upright arm goes down about 3' to a cross member. Arm
is completly welded with DRD2 attached as shown. Worked great.
Russ Daves
N710RV (Reserved) on main gear
N65RV (RV-6A Sold)
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean Blair
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 10:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a
lot of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with by
myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and deburring,
then dimpling without the initial construction with final drilling? Any
problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Just saw something the other day on the "Parivize" traffic detector. It sits on
your glareshield and uses 3 cameras and missile-tracking algorithms to detect
traffic ahead of you optically and alert you to it and it's bearing. Cleverly,
that let's you detect people who don't have a transponder operating. Spruce
has it for about $1500, I think.
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Mode-S Xponder - Stations Shutdown
Anyone installing a Mode-S Xponder? Tony Sustare alerted me on some 60 stations already shutdown in the East Coast and possibly more to come. Further info at http://www.surecheckaviation.com/ .
Also, I would appreciate any insight that you may have on the TrafficScope VRX
as an alternative. It sells for $795 and works off of other aircraft transponder
pings.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
Sean,
I've got the DRD2 Dimpler mounted to a table I build with a sheet of =BE inch plywood
as the top. I measured the bottom of the dimpler and cut a hole just big
enough to slip it into. Then, I built a box underneath to sit the dimpler
down in. Now my dimple dies are the only thing that sticks up above the surface
of the table. This seems to work so far, I've used this setup for the empecone
and left wing so far. I can now dimple twice as fast as I could with the
old C Dimpler, makes a huge speed difference and the dimples are more uniform
as well.
Dennis Millsap
RV-6A, N464DM
RV-10, 40112
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a lot
of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with by myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and deburring,
then dimpling without the initial construction with final drilling? Any
problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Questions answered |
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
I've been doing the ream and dimple, and so far it has been great. I think
it saves a lot of time, just wish I had bought a speed deburrer, coghill,
but to late now. I would if I was just starting, get one in both the 30 and
40 size to go with my 30 and 40 reamers. Both Rick and I have a different
type of a "c" frame application. We take and use 2 inch foam and set the c
frame into it. It speeds it up a little and makes handling the material
easier. The idea came from Rick, I was going to let it into a table like
Russ, but Rick's idea was better. It also breaks down into a 4" wide
package and goes away, so space can be used differently. I'm still in an
oversized one car garage, and working on the fuselage floor, going to skin
it Thurs night. Droppy, I have reamers for you, come on by when you are on
day shift.
Bob K
Break Break Nice hanger Russ.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
I've tried reaming on a few parts with good results, fellow Vegas builder
Bob K. has had good results on his fuselage floor so far, Russ Daves has
done it for almost all of his build. My only advice would be to make sure
you don't miss any drilled in assembly steps that you might not be able do
if you start assembling and riveting things for the first time. So far all
my hole have lined up perfectly so in theory it should work fine.
No help on your dimple table....I used the ole hammer and C-frame
method.....screw the neighbors!!! IMHO I would go with that new fangled DRTS
thingy if I had to do it again just for my own peace and quiet plus it has a
better reach and I hear better dimples.
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
My quick and dirty design was to nail a 4x6 to the end of one of my workbenches
so the dimple die was at about the same height as the bench top. I then just
slide another workbench up to it. Let's me remove it or move it around without
a problem.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a lot
of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with by myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and deburring,
then dimpling without the initial construction with final drilling? Any
problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
John,
I don't know about engineering issues, but if you are like me and are
prone to using your mouth as a storage unit while riveting, I'd keep the
MED'd rivets out of the regular stash.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: MEK'd Rivets
Hey all,
Just leak tested my left tank (right tank is still curing and I'm going to
wait... Thanks Tim) and no leaks so far!! As I clean up my proseal mess, I
have a bunch of -4 rivets that I've cleaned and soaked in MEK that I didn't
use. Are there any issues with throwing them back in with the others or does
the oil I took off (or the MEK itself) pose some sort of long term storage
or usage issue?
Thanks,
John
#40208 finally done w/ the tanks!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
My process is simple, I look at the plans and find the parts. I look at the
blue and take it off. I look at the holes and ream them. I deburr both
sides. I dimple them if that's what the plans say, and then for the first
time I put them together and rivet them. I spend a little more time going
over the plans to make sure I don't screw up a process in the works and then
go for it. So far all is well and I would rather drill out a few rivets, I
think, than spend all that time preassembling and disassembling.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
My quick and dirty design was to nail a 4x6 to the end of one of my
workbenches so the dimple die was at about the same height as the bench top.
I then just slide another workbench up to it. Let's me remove it or move it
around without a problem.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Questions
Has anyone come up with a table design for the DRD2 Dimpler? I still have a
lot of dimpling ahead and those big pieces get a little tough to deal with
by myself.
Also, is anyone taking the "big shortcut" with just reaming the holes and
deburring, then dimpling without the initial construction with final
drilling? Any problems?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
The saliva on the rivets is a serious corrosive, one of the few things that
eats aluminum. Bob K
MEK only eats brain cells.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: MEK'd Rivets
John,
I don't know about engineering issues, but if you are like me and are
prone to using your mouth as a storage unit while riveting, I'd keep the
MED'd rivets out of the regular stash.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Erickson
Subject: RV10-List: MEK'd Rivets
Hey all,
Just leak tested my left tank (right tank is still curing and I'm going to
wait... Thanks Tim) and no leaks so far!! As I clean up my proseal mess, I
have a bunch of -4 rivets that I've cleaned and soaked in MEK that I didn't
use. Are there any issues with throwing them back in with the others or does
the oil I took off (or the MEK itself) pose some sort of long term storage
or usage issue?
Thanks,
John
#40208 finally done w/ the tanks!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
Thanks for all of the responses everyone! I think I'll try the big shortcut
and see how it goes. A table for the DRD2 is also high on the list, I got
some good ideas from your posts.
I guess if you want to hold rivets in your mouth you could gargle with
Quaker State first.
Sean
N967SB
(reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_2 Message came from 24.225.10-29.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
* -0.9 BAYES_05 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 1 to 5%
* -0.1 AWL AWL: From: address is in the auto white-list
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Cogsdill deburrers |
I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for the first time and the tension
is too tight on it. It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring. Is
there a tension adjustment on them???
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor waiting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
You can loosen the set screw and move the narrow shaft with the blade
out. In the narrow shaft there is a hole that a spring loaded pin sets
in. The end of the pin near the blade puts pressure on the back side of
the blade providing the tension.
I know because the other day I broke a blade on my #40 and had to
replace it. Removing the pin that looks like a speck of dirt was taxing
to re-insert. Loosening the tension should be much easier.
Larry Rosen
#356
http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for the first time and
> the tension is too tight on it. It nearly countersunk the piece I was
> deburring. Is there a tension adjustment on them???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137
> Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor waiting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Bill,
In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get the
correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it back
in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the "ball
park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
revolutions each side.
Steve 40212 Wings
--- Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for
> the first time and the tension is too tight on it.
> It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring. Is
> there a tension adjustment on them???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137
> Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
> waiting
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Steve,
I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the burraway? And with what type of
tool? By saying you're done in two revolutions, I'm guessing you you have it
chucked in a cordless screwdriver type drill vice an pneumatic drill that is
spinning thousands of RPMs. True?
TIA,
-Jim
On 8/16/05, Darton Steve wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
> In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get the
> correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
> down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
> turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it back
> in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the "ball
> park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
> personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
> revolutions each side.
> Steve 40212 Wings
>
> --- Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>
> > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day for
> > the first time and the tension is too tight on it.
> > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring. Is
> > there a tension adjustment on them???
> >
> > Bill Britton
> > RV-10 #40137
> > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
> > waiting
> >
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
--
o\o
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
For those using the GTX-330 Xponder, where do you install the upper antenna?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Anh:
You don't need an upper antenna unless you are trying to fulfill European certification
requirements for "diversity" with transponders, which isn't really applicable
to us little guys. Anyway, the second antenna would be useless unless
you bought the GTX330D model, which supports diversity, and will cost you some
extra bucks. ($7000 versus $3500 at Spruce)
Wait until you get your King Air to worry about that . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: GTX330 antennas
For those using the GTX-330 Xponder, where do you install the upper antenna?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
TDT, thanks for the clarification - brain overload from reading on a lot of different
systems. Anh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BBreckenridge(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
1.25 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO
When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me when
I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was adjusted at
the factory?
Bruce
empecone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Jim,
You are correct, I use a De Walt 9.6V cordless for
deburring and almost all my match drilling. I hardly
use my pneumatic drill, the cordless is more
comfortable and convenient.
By the way I have some extra .125, .156 & .187
Burraway's I would like to sell. If any one would like
any of these sizes e-mail me directly.
Steve 40212 Wings
--- Jim Beyer wrote:
> Steve,
> I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the
> burraway? And with what type of
> tool? By saying you're done in two revolutions, I'm
> guessing you you have it
> chucked in a cordless screwdriver type drill vice an
> pneumatic drill that is
> spinning thousands of RPMs. True?
> TIA,
> -Jim
>
>
> On 8/16/05, Darton Steve wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > Bill,
> > In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get
> the
> > correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
> > down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
> > turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it
> back
> > in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the
> "ball
> > park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
> > personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
> > revolutions each side.
> > Steve 40212 Wings
> >
> > --- Bill and Tami Britton
> wrote:
> >
> > > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day
> for
> > > the first time and the tension is too tight on
> it.
> > > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring.
> Is
> > > there a tension adjustment on them???
> > >
> > > Bill Britton
> > > RV-10 #40137
> > > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
> > > waiting
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ____________________________________________________
> page
> >
> >
> >
> >
> =====================================
> =====================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> o=\o
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass resin & cloth |
I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like to
know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are ordering (I
assume from Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or epoxy? What
would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
Anyone have experinence or opinions on the Falcon heated pitot tube? The
were selling a heated 12v stainless steel pitot at OSK for $449 with the
RV10 bracket. This may be the same pitot that Stein is selling.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary schneider" <mialma(at)theriver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Hi Guys, were did you get you Burraway's, I have my kit is due 9/10
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill deburrers
>
> Jim,
> You are correct, I use a De Walt 9.6V cordless for
> deburring and almost all my match drilling. I hardly
> use my pneumatic drill, the cordless is more
> comfortable and convenient.
> By the way I have some extra .125, .156 & .187
> Burraway's I would like to sell. If any one would like
> any of these sizes e-mail me directly.
> Steve 40212 Wings
>
> --- Jim Beyer wrote:
>
>> Steve,
>> I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the
>> burraway? And with what type of
>> tool? By saying you're done in two revolutions, I'm
>> guessing you you have it
>> chucked in a cordless screwdriver type drill vice an
>> pneumatic drill that is
>> spinning thousands of RPMs. True?
>> TIA,
>> -Jim
>>
>>
>> On 8/16/05, Darton Steve wrote:
>> >
>>
>> >
>> > Bill,
>> > In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get
>> the
>> > correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
>> > down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
>> > turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it
>> back
>> > in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the
>> "ball
>> > park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
>> > personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
>> > revolutions each side.
>> > Steve 40212 Wings
>> >
>> > --- Bill and Tami Britton
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day
>> for
>> > > the first time and the tension is too tight on
>> it.
>> > > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring.
>> Is
>> > > there a tension adjustment on them???
>> > >
>> > > Bill Britton
>> > > RV-10 #40137
>> > > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
>> > > waiting
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> ____________________________________________________
>> page
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> =====================================
>> =====================================
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> o=\o
>>
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Speaking of which, does anyone (yeah, I should just call the manufacturer)
know the proper RPM to be using with the Cogsdill?
John Jessen
(buildis interruptis)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BBreckenridge(at)att.net
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cogsdill deburrers
When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me
when I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was
adjusted at the factory?
Bruce
empecone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass resin & cloth |
I haven't done any fairings yet, but I can say that you'll have
good luck with West System epoxy. http://www.westsystem.com/
I don't believe you'll need poly resin at all. West System
has a bunch of fillers available. My Tips page has info on
what was recommended to me, and it works real well. (See
the non-included options section)
Tim
John Testement wrote:
> I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like
> to know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are
> ordering (I assume from Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or
> epoxy? What would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Finishing tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Yes, you have to specify that you want the blade for aluminum. If you
did not specify that when ordered, odds are that's not the blade you
received.
There's info on how to adjust the bit along with info on the different
blade type on their website at the following URL:
<http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf>. You all read
that before using the bit right? :)
-Sean #40303
BBreckenridge(at)att.net wrote:
>
> When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me when
I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was adjusted
at the factory?
>
> Bruce
> empecone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Call them direct..
http://www.cogsdill.com/contact.html
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
gary schneider wrote:
>
> Hi Guys, were did you get you Burraway's, I have my kit is due 9/10
>
> Gary
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 6:10 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill deburrers
>
>
>>
>> Jim,
>> You are correct, I use a De Walt 9.6V cordless for
>> deburring and almost all my match drilling. I hardly
>> use my pneumatic drill, the cordless is more
>> comfortable and convenient.
>> By the way I have some extra .125, .156 & .187
>> Burraway's I would like to sell. If any one would like
>> any of these sizes e-mail me directly.
>> Steve 40212 Wings
>>
>> --- Jim Beyer wrote:
>>
>>> Steve, I'm curious...how fast are you spinning the
>>> burraway? And with what type of tool? By saying you're done in two
>>> revolutions, I'm
>>> guessing you you have it chucked in a cordless screwdriver type
>>> drill vice an
>>> pneumatic drill that is spinning thousands of RPMs. True? TIA,
>>> -Jim
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/16/05, Darton Steve wrote:
>>>
>>> > > Bill,
>>> > In the base of the mandrel is a hex set screw. Get
>>> the
>>> > correct size allen wrench, (hold the Burraway tip
>>> > down/set screw up so the spring does not fall out)
>>> > turn the set screw all the way out, then turn it
>>> back
>>> > in 3 to 3 1/2 turns. This should get you in the
>>> "ball
>>> > park". Play with the adjustment from there to your
>>> > personal liking. I like mine set to deburr in two
>>> > revolutions each side.
>>> > Steve 40212 Wings
>>> > > --- Bill and Tami Britton
>>> wrote:
>>> > > > I was using the #30 cogsdill tool the other day
>>> for
>>> > > the first time and the tension is too tight on
>>> it.
>>> > > It nearly countersunk the piece I was deburring.
>>> Is
>>> > > there a tension adjustment on them???
>>> > >
>>> > > Bill Britton
>>> > > RV-10 #40137
>>> > > Elevs. in the works, wings sitting on the floor
>>> > > waiting
>>> > >
>>> > > > > >
>>> ____________________________________________________
>>> page
>>> > > > > =====================================
>>> =====================================
>>> > > > > > > > > >
>>>
>>> --
>>> o=\o
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ____________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill deburrers |
Their catalogue/manual says " use the same speeds and feed rates that
you would use with a standard drill. The operator will soon acquire a
feel for themoderate rate of hand feeding that is required."
http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
John Jessen wrote:
>
>Speaking of which, does anyone (yeah, I should just call the manufacturer)
>know the proper RPM to be using with the Cogsdill?
>
>John Jessen
> (buildis interruptis)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>BBreckenridge(at)att.net
>Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 9:02 AM
>To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cogsdill deburrers
>
>
>When I ordered mine, it seemed to make a difference in what they shipped me
>when I told them it was for aluminum - maybe how tight the spring was
>adjusted at the factory?
>
>Bruce
>empecone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass resin & cloth |
For the work we are doing, use West System resin and hardener. Get some slow and
fast so you have options and make sure you get the universal pumps to make
it easy. As far as filler, stay away from the usual polyester (bondo) fillers
as they shrink over time and use epoxy resin with a filler mixed in. For structural
type of stuff you would use milled glass or cotton also known as flock.
For the non-structural filler use glass balloons, also known as micro balloons
or just plain micro. You can also use other additives like Superfill, West
systems has a couple different kinds, talc powder, etc. Just do NOT use the
graphite powder.
You can get West System products from Spruce, any boat store, or even possibly
a local West Marine store. Check around before you pay shipping. West has a
good pamphlet that you can get in their stores on how to mix resin for different
tasks and I highly recommend it if you have no prior experience or if it's
been a while.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 wing ribs
(shh, don't tell anyone I almost built a plastic airplane)
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement |
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass resin & cloth
I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like to know
which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are ordering (I assume from
Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or epoxy? What would you recommend
using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass resin & cloth |
I think Van's used the West System Epoxy for the lid and other fairings. It
is best by far to use Epoxy with Epoxy, there are bonding issues with
Polyester over Epoxy.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Subject: RV10-List: Fiberglass resin & cloth
I am about to begin the glass work on the tail fairings and would like to
know which brand/part number resin and fiberglass you guys are ordering (I
assume from Aircraft Spruce). Do you recommend Poly resin or epoxy? What
would you recommend using to fill small dents etc. in the skins
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Falcon pitot tube |
It is the same pitot tube, but we're switching form the Falcon to the Gretz
Heated Pitot. The Falcon tube is fine, but the Gretz tube offers some
improvements over the falcon tube and is cheaper at $425, and you can buy
them direct from Gretz if you choose.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 8:44 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Falcon pitot tube
Anyone have experinence or opinions on the Falcon heated pitot tube? The
were selling a heated 12v stainless steel pitot at OSK for $449 with the
RV10 bracket. This may be the same pitot that Stein is selling.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Falcon pitot tube |
> The price for heated is $425 and the price for unheated is $125.
Just curious because I don't know about these things.
What makes the heating part of the pitot so expensive?
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
Will this be a problem?
100_3233.JPG
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Celebrating the completion of my Tail Cone
with an assist from my son Cody
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Need distance between main gear on RV10...quick! |
Listers,
The builder of my airpark home is forming up the layout of the hangar ramp
in front of the hangar. With the cost of concrete going sky high lately, we
can't afford a full 46' width all the way out to the street. So, it's going
to be a "Y" shaped affair, going full width to the main slab at the door,
then tapering to a driveway of approx 12' out to the street. Will this be
enough? I looks like main gear width is maybe eight feet?
Thanks in advance.
Brian Denk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Hall <phil(at)asibuildings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need distance between main gear on RV10...quick! |
Brian,
You need 8', so 12' is plenty.
Phil
>
>Listers,
>
>The builder of my airpark home is forming up the layout of the hangar ramp
>in front of the hangar. With the cost of concrete going sky high lately, we
>can't afford a full 46' width all the way out to the street. So, it's going
>to be a "Y" shaped affair, going full width to the main slab at the door,
>then tapering to a driveway of approx 12' out to the street. Will this be
>enough? I looks like main gear width is maybe eight feet?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Brian Denk
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
Yes, if not for weight and balance, at the smell of dead body.
Rene'
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: RV10-List: Weight and Balance
Will this be a problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weight and Balance |
Nope! The -10 is nose haevy anyhow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
Let me try that again.....typing challenged.....
Yes, if not for weight and balance, at least for the smell of the dead body.
Rene'
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Weight and Balance
Yes, if not for weight and balance, at the smell of dead body.
Rene'
40322
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: RV10-List: Weight and Balance
Will this be a problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Weight and Balance |
You will need to post a 2nd picture when you get the elevator pushrod installed!
Me thinks you will need a lot of down elevator in cruise flight. Flairs for
landing should not need much back stick!
Great picture!
Jim C
#40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Getting Trim System to work |
Hi Guys
I have been trying to get the trim system to work =96 with limited
success. My best effort is 33=B0 down =96 instead of the 35=B0 required (right
side). The =91up=92-travel is 27=B0 - the required amount is not even
mentioned in the plans. I don=92t get both sides aligned in the 0=B0
position. I have checked the plans several times and can=92t find any
=91builder induced=92 error.
From those of you that have gone through this process I=92d like to know
if you had similar experiences and if so what the solution was.
Does anybody know the deflections? For a potentially nose heavy plane
I=92d rather know the exact up position than the down position.
Thanks in advance
Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
40280 Wings (& Trim System)
http://www.malmstrom.ch/RV10.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Trim System to work |
I don't know specifically on the RV-10 but I doubt the 2 degree difference will
make any difference as full trim deflection will likely never be needed.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2005 2:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Getting Trim System to work
Hi Guys
I have been trying to get the trim system to work - with limited success. My
best effort is 33=B0 down - instead of the 35=B0 required (right side). The 'up'-travel
is 27=B0 - the required amount is not even mentioned in the plans. I
don't get both sides aligned in the 0=B0 position. I have checked the plans several
times and can't find any 'builder induced' error.
From those of you that have gone through this process I'd like to know if you
had similar experiences and if so what the solution was.
Does anybody know the deflections? For a potentially nose heavy plane I'd rather
know the exact up position than the down position.
Thanks in advance
Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
40280 Wings (& Trim System)
http://www.malmstrom.ch/RV10.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | wing storage racks |
I am preparing to accept delivery of my quickbuild wings and fuselage. Does anyone
have plans for a storage rack for the wings? I need them to sit on the leading
edges, on a rolling rack. Pictures and dimensions of the wings would be helpful.
Thanx in advance.
Chris Hukill (working on rudder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Odyssey and metal jackets |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Reservepower" <YISTATIONARY(at)enersys.com>
Subject: RE: Visitor Comments
Good Morning,
Here are the operating temps:
With jacket: -40 degrees F to 176 degrees F
Without jacket: -40 F to 113 F
Thank you
John Edwards
-----Original Message-----
From: dlm46007(at)cox.net [mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net]
Subject: Visitor Comments
McNeill
Country: USA
Phone:
Fax:
Comments
what are the operating temperatures for the Odyssey 680 with and without
metal jacket?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing storage racks |
Chris,
Go here: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/wingtips.html
I cobbled up someone elses design, and then if you look towards
the bottom of that page, Larry Rosen #356 even took my info
and improved on it and did a great write-up.
It's cheap and easy.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
Chris Hukill wrote:
> I am preparing to accept delivery of my quickbuild wings and fuselage.
> Does anyone have plans for a storage rack for the wings? I need them to
> sit on the leading edges, on a rolling rack. Pictures and dimensions of
> the wings would be helpful. Thanx in advance.
> Chris Hukill (working on rudder)
________________________________________________________________________________
Saw this $655 DVD/CD/MP3 that looks pretty nice:
http://www.flightdisplay.com/products_av.html
FAA/PMA approved and plays world-wide DVDs . . .
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Falcon pitot tube |
Hello:
This is Warren's wife - I think I can answer this question for you guys (Warren
is on a run to town to get more metal to make mounting brackets). Its because
of the high wages he pays me. Ha! Seriously, the heated pitot tubes are VERY
work intensive and it takes a lot of time to make just one, even with both of
us sharing the work. There are two circuit boards that we have to populate
and there are numerous steps to complete just one pitot, plus some of the components
are fairly pricey. Because Warren wants each pitot to leave the shop working
perfectly, also factor in checking it all out. The unheated pitot is just
that - no extra circuit boards/wires/soldering, etc. and once the pitot is
back from the molding company, we don't have to do hardly anything to it.
Hope this helps explain the cost difference.
Jan Mutchler (populating circuit boards in my retirement)
---- Dj Merrill wrote:
>
>
>
> > The price for heated is $425 and the price for unheated is $125.
>
> Just curious because I don't know about these things.
> What makes the heating part of the pitot so expensive?
>
> -Dj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wing storage racks |
Chris,
The stands documented on Tim's web site are great. Additionally I added a piece
of plywood on the 2x4 box at the end holding the inboard spar ends to make it
more rigid. A diagonal would work well too if you don't have any spare plywood
around.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 10:10:50 -0500
Chris,
Go here: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/wingtips.html
I cobbled up someone elses design, and then if you look towards
the bottom of that page, Larry Rosen #356 even took my info
and improved on it and did a great write-up.
It's cheap and easy.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Doors/Windows
Chris Hukill wrote:
> I am preparing to accept delivery of my quickbuild wings and fuselage.
> Does anyone have plans for a storage rack for the wings? I need them to
> sit on the leading edges, on a rolling rack. Pictures and dimensions of
> the wings would be helpful. Thanx in advance.
> Chris Hukill (working on rudder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing storage racks |
You might want to consider two sawhorses instead of a wing storage rack.
I screwed the spar end into the wood sawhorse at one end, stuck a 4' 2x4 into the
wingtip ribs and screwed the 2x4 into the other sawhorse. With the two wings
back to back I could work on the flap gap farings, run the wires for the lights,
etc., install the autopilot servo and get the bottom skin ready to rivet
all at a really good working height with no obstructions.
When I got ready to install the stall warning and pitot tube I put the left wing
down flap on a table top side down.
Best regards,
Russ Daves
N710RV (Reserved) Fuselage on main gear
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hukill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2005 9:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: wing storage racks
I am preparing to accept delivery of my quickbuild wings and fuselage. Does anyone
have plans for a storage rack for the wings? I need them to sit on the leading
edges, on a rolling rack. Pictures and dimensions of the wings would be
helpful. Thanx in advance.
Chris Hukill (working on rudder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Getting Trim System to work |
Hmmm, 1 response out of 25 actually had something to do with this guy=92s
question. Anybody else have a pertinent answer, I=92m also about to deal with
the trim system?
Thanks,
Marcus
P.S. The wings won=92t twist any more in an aileron roll than they would
rolling into a steep turn using the same roll rate. (Couldn=92t help it,
sorry)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
Subject: RV10-List: Getting Trim System to work
Hi Guys
I have been trying to get the trim system to work =96 with limited success. My
best effort is 33=B0 down =96 instead of the 35=B0 required (right side). The
=91up=92-travel is 27=B0 - the required amount is not even mentioned in the plans.
I don=92t get both sides aligned in the 0=B0 position. I have checked the plans
several times and can=92t find any =91builder induced=92 error.
From those of you that have gone through this process I=92d like to know if
you had similar experiences and if so what the solution was.
Does anybody know the deflections? For a potentially nose heavy plane I=92d
rather know the exact up position than the down position.
Thanks in advance
Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
40280 Wings (& Trim System)
http://www.malmstrom.ch/RV10.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Getting Trim System to work |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
What was the trim question again?
Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Getting Trim System to work
Hmmm, 1 response out of 25 actually had something to do with this guy's question.
Anybody else have a pertinent answer, I'm also about to deal with the trim
system?
Thanks,
Marcus
P.S. The wings won't twist any more in an aileron roll than they would rolling
into a steep turn using the same roll rate. (Couldn't help it, sorry)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
Subject: RV10-List: Getting Trim System to work
Hi Guys
I have been trying to get the trim system to work - with limited success. My best
effort is 33=B0 down - instead of the 35=B0 required (right side). The 'up'-travel
is 27=B0 - the required amount is not even mentioned in the plans. I don't
get both sides aligned in the 0=B0 position. I have checked the plans several
times and can't find any 'builder induced' error.
From those of you that have gone through this process I'd like to know if you had
similar experiences and if so what the solution was.
Does anybody know the deflections? For a potentially nose heavy plane I'd rather
know the exact up position than the down position.
Thanks in advance
Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
40280 Wings (& Trim System)
http://www.malmstrom.ch/RV10.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | wing storage racks |
Got my wings in them, come take a look. Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Subject: RV10-List: wing storage racks
I am preparing to accept delivery of my quickbuild wings and fuselage. Does
anyone have plans for a storage rack for the wings? I need them to sit on
the leading edges, on a rolling rack. Pictures and dimensions of the wings
would be helpful. Thanx in advance.
Chris Hukill (working on rudder)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Trim System to work |
I also agree that shiny side up is the way to fly, and that a 1 G
environment is preferred. I believe that 1 G could be sustained in a
variety of ways. Possible for a cross country to get 2 to 4 G's in a little
turbulence. Don't think I would call that acro, but know I've put more than
that on in rolling G's on a cross country in a V-Tail. Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: akro ... was Re: RV10-List: Getting Trim System to work
It's not that Nevada builder and the one who loves to tell everyone he's
going to loop and roll gets my "over the glasses eyeball" everytime he
mentions it. IMHO if ya want to do loops and rolls do them in an aircraft
that has performance as part of it's fort'e. I'm sure the -10 is quite
capable looking at the "g" ratings. I would hate to have something tragic
happen to anyone but especially my friends, in an event that may have been
preventable, had they only partaken in a X-country cruise, shiney side up.
Only my 2 cents worth.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics) |
I just started the final assembly of my tailcone (ie. all parts drilled, dimpled
and primed) and I have clecoed the assembly back together. When I look at where
the side skins overlap the bottom skin, their seems to be a slight gap.
I realized that I did not run my edge seamer down the side skins to put a slight
bend on them. The problem is that with the skin already dimpled, the seamer
will not run down the edge without running over the dimples (and probably flattening
them out). One side looks ok but the other side has maybe a 1/64th gap
that I am not sure will come down when I rivet.
One thought I had was to un-cleco each side (one at a time) to release the pressure
on that curve, and then rivet the line of rivets that joins the two skins.
I think that will bring it down tight. After that, re-cleco and continue as
normal. Am I asking for trouble rivetting those skins together without the
sizes being fully clecoed?
Anyone have any ideas. I am open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance
Kent Forsythe
www.4sythe.com
40338
Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics) |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
The Avery tool will still work after you have dimpled.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing ribs
Feelin loopy and rolling with laughter. HA!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics)
-->
I just started the final assembly of my tailcone (ie. all parts drilled, dimpled
and primed) and I have clecoed the assembly back together. When I look at where
the side skins overlap the bottom skin, their seems to be a slight gap.
I realized that I did not run my edge seamer down the side skins to put a slight
bend on them. The problem is that with the skin already dimpled, the seamer
will not run down the edge without running over the dimples (and probably flattening
them out). One side looks ok but the other side has maybe a 1/64th gap
that I am not sure will come down when I rivet.
One thought I had was to un-cleco each side (one at a time) to release the pressure
on that curve, and then rivet the line of rivets that joins the two skins.
I think that will bring it down tight. After that, re-cleco and continue as
normal. Am I asking for trouble rivetting those skins together without the
sizes being fully clecoed?
Anyone have any ideas. I am open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance
Kent Forsythe
www.4sythe.com
40338
Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Trim System to work |
ROFL. Meaning "roll on floor laughing". "That's why good made parachutes."
Russ, I plan on flying close formation also. You lead or me. Just be
smooth over the top.
Bob K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Franz" <cfranz10121(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Getting Trim System to work |
Lorenz,
The trim tab in the down position will cause the elevator to 'fly' up,
helping to hold the nose up, and since both trim tabs are used for this
action, it should provide some 'muscle' to get that task done. You're
right when you say that not much is required for nose down trim, so only
one trim tab is used for that function.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lorenz
Malmstr=F6m
Subject: RV10-List: Getting Trim System to work
Hi Guys
I have been trying to get the trim system to work =96 with limited
success. My best effort is 33=B0 down =96 instead of the 35=B0 required (right
side). The =91up=92-travel is 27=B0 - the required amount is not even
mentioned in the plans. I don=92t get both sides aligned in the 0=B0
position. I have checked the plans several times and can=92t find any
=91builder induced=92 error.
From those of you that have gone through this process I=92d like to know
if you had similar experiences and if so what the solution was.
Does anybody know the deflections? For a potentially nose heavy plane
I=92d rather know the exact up position than the down position.
Thanks in advance
Lorenz Malmstr=F6m
40280 Wings (& Trim System)
http://www.malmstrom.ch/RV10.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Trim System to work |
FWIW. I have done loops and rolls in every aircraft I've flown except the
172, and the Funk. That includes Helios, Aero Commanders, Pipers, Etc, to
even include 2 different types of hang gliders. It's not a bad deal to go
upside down, but I have a lot of hours in academics and training in acro.
Sure if you are on the first flight you can kill your self. If you have
proper instruction in acro and a competent instructor, and time in the
maneuvers, you can do it. I would recommend that inverted spins not be
done, They really are not that much fun.
Bob K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
aerobatics)
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with |
aerobatics)
Kent,
If you have a hand seamer you can use it to put a slight bend into the sheet. I've
done this in several areas and it works fine. Try it out on a piece of scrap
to get the feel but you only need a little bend to make it happen.
And please in the future when your refer to gap distances, use decimal instead
of frational measurements. .015625 of an inch sounds so small compared to 1/64".
Call Vans, and ask for Ken Scott...then tell him your concerns...lol...let
us know what he says.
Rick S.
40185
Wings level
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Getting Trim System to work |
"Good" or "God" made parachutes???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics) |
Kent - I made this mistake on the trailing edges of the elevators - ie
dimpled before running the edge seamer along the edge.
The way I got around it was to bend the skins (only slightly!) with 2 long
blocks of wood. For the bottom piece, I rounded the corner slightly, and cut
notches for the dimples. Then clamped the skin between this piece and
another straight piece. Once immobilised, I could use fingers/small block of
wood to create the slight bend. Turned out well, but much more work than
using the edge seamer in the first place.
Hope this helps
Indran Chelvanayagam
Bunbury, Western Australia
RV-10 Construction Hangar visible on Google Earth :
33d22'27.00"S, 115d40'56.59"E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with
aerobatics)
-->
I just started the final assembly of my tailcone (ie. all parts drilled,
dimpled and primed) and I have clecoed the assembly back together. When I
look at where the side skins overlap the bottom skin, their seems to be a
slight gap. I realized that I did not run my edge seamer down the side
skins to put a slight bend on them. The problem is that with the skin
already dimpled, the seamer will not run down the edge without running over
the dimples (and probably flattening them out). One side looks ok but the
other side has maybe a 1/64th gap that I am not sure will come down when I
rivet.
One thought I had was to un-cleco each side (one at a time) to release the
pressure on that curve, and then rivet the line of rivets that joins the two
skins. I think that will bring it down tight. After that, re-cleco and
continue as normal. Am I asking for trouble rivetting those skins together
without the sizes being fully clecoed?
Anyone have any ideas. I am open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance
Kent Forsythe
www.4sythe.com
40338
Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics) |
Boy, keeping up with this site is Timely, I'm at exactly the same point
as Kent and after reading his post, I went and checked to see how my
skins matched, I actually drove a couple (3) rivets along the seam
between the side skins and the bottom to see if it would snug down
'naturally' no joy on this end. I read Michael's post about being able
to use the Avery tool w/ the dimples. I don't have the Avery tool, but
the Cleveland ( don't know if there's a difference). My 1st reaction was
' you must be nuts there's no way to run the tool over the rivets' and
then after thinking a bit, I tried running the tool between the dimples
about 1 1\2" @ a time, it takes a little longer than the one pass prior
to dimpling, but it seemed to work out fine, I'll let you know tomorrow
when I drive some rivets.
PS. I'm taking a tip from Mike How and Sean Steven's and back riveting
as much as possible, I did the bottom skin and it worked just fine. I
stopped by the Iron salvage/supply and found a piece of 1/4" plate about
12" x 16". They charged me $15 for it. took the belt sander to it to
clean it up a bit, and I've now got a Jumbo back rivet plate!!
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics) |
Hey Kent,
I wouldn't be too worried about a slight gap. The curve on my left side
skin wasn't complete and with the skin clecoed on the sides (not on the
bottom edge) it stood out about an inch. After rolling the curve more I
ended up with a very wavy edge that still sat about 1/16-1/8" out, even
when clecoed.
When I came to rivet it, I back riveted the rivets, with the large,
round-faced bucking bar on the manufactured head and with the bucker
providing firm pressure. It came together very nicely and you can't
tell that it used to look awful, it sits dead flush.
Besides that - remember that it is the bottom of the plane and once
painted you are unlikely to notice a gap that small anyway, and no one
will look.
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172 VH-DRS
Adelaide, South Australia
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>
>
> I just started the final assembly of my tailcone (ie. all parts
> drilled, dimpled and primed) and I have clecoed the assembly back
> together. When I look at where the side skins overlap the bottom
> skin, their seems to be a slight gap. I realized that I did not run
> my edge seamer down the side skins to put a slight bend on them. The
> problem is that with the skin already dimpled, the seamer will not
> run down the edge without running over the dimples (and probably
> flattening them out). One side looks ok but the other side has maybe
> a 1/64th gap that I am not sure will come down when I rivet.
>
> One thought I had was to un-cleco each side (one at a time) to
> release the pressure on that curve, and then rivet the line of rivets
> that joins the two skins. I think that will bring it down tight.
> After that, re-cleco and continue as normal. Am I asking for trouble
> rivetting those skins together without the sizes being fully clecoed?
>
>
> Anyone have any ideas. I am open to suggestions.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Kent Forsythe www.4sythe.com 40338 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Buhwana <buhwana(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 57 Msgs - 08/18/05 |
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
From what I've learned about this event the marketing department
never approved the roll. When Tex landed he was met by the CEO (I
think, or some big cheese) of Boeing and when he descended the stairs
the CEO asked Tex, "What the hell you think your doing", to which Tex
replied "Trying to sell airplanes". The CEO replied something to the
effect, "Well ever do it again and your fired". Or so the story goed.
Tom
an RV-wana-be lurker
> His son (Mr. Johnson that is) mentioned that the maneuver was
> practiced for days
> before SeaFair. Just done off the Straits of Juan DeFuca (out of
> prying eyes)
> so it looked spontaneous. Oh how those marketing guys can
> manipulate us little
> kids.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wing storage racks |
Thanks for the ideas. I need to build the racks as compact as possible, as they will live under my RV8, that is on an aerolift, in my hanger. I need to roll everything outside the hangar to lower the 8 to go fly, and there is very limited space. Could someone please measure their wings and tell me the length, without tips installed, the distance from the forward side of the spar to the leading edge (strait line), and the distance from the aft side of the spar to the trailing edge (flaps and ailerons not on). These measurements should allow me to build my rack as compact as possible, as I will not use it for construction, only storage. Thanks again in advance, and if anyone is interested, check out my RV8 website. http://members.cox.net/cjhukill/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wing storage racks |
Whoops, I also need the thickness of the wing, at the spar!
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing storage racks |
The length of the RV-10 QB wings without the tips is 12' plus 5" for the spar.
The thickness of the wing at the spar is 9".
The distance from the front edge of the spar to the trailing edge of the wing
is 30" (without flaps) and the distance from the front edge of the spar to the
leading edge is about 20"
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hukill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2005 11:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing storage racks
Whoops, I also need the thickness of the wing, at the spar!
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wing storage racks |
Chris
If you are at your hanger today, I'll swing by, going to be at VGT anyway.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Subject: RV10-List: Wing storage racks
Whoops, I also need the thickness of the wing, at the spar!
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wing storage racks |
Call me on the cell. Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Subject: RV10-List: Wing storage racks
Whoops, I also need the thickness of the wing, at the spar!
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics) |
Kent,
The process of riveting will most likely squeeze them up tight.
Jim C
#40192
N312F
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Leach <papadaddyo(at)verizon.net> |
I know there has been a lot said about oops rivets so i appologize. I just bought
some oops rivets to have on hand. As it turns out, I need to replace a few
of the rivets on the HS spar. All of the rivets I have seem to be flush rivets.
What is the suggestion to HS spar rivets.
Thanks,
Rick Leach
40397
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Rich,
Your only option is to go up one size in diameter, the opps rivets have a 3/32
sized head on a 1/8" body. Order some universal head rivets 3/16 and 5/32 in diameter
about #6 in length so you can cut them to size or order different lengths
if you want. Be careful with the universal headed rivets because my experience
has been that you can damage the material as easily as the rivet head. A
little tip/hint is to place a piece of masking tape on the rivet head before setting
the rivet, it will help keep the set in place and works pretty well. Well
worth the effort.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with aerobatics) |
Call up the Yard store. They have a salvage yard. I explained to them what I
wanted, they cut a fantastic back riveting plate for 4 $ and shipped it to
me FREE. ( with other stuff) Good stuff.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with
aerobatics)
Boy, keeping up with this site is Timely, I'm at exactly the same point
as Kent and after reading his post, I went and checked to see how my
skins matched, I actually drove a couple (3) rivets along the seam
between the side skins and the bottom to see if it would snug down
'naturally' no joy on this end. I read Michael's post about being able
to use the Avery tool w/ the dimples. I don't have the Avery tool, but
the Cleveland ( don't know if there's a difference). My 1st reaction was
' you must be nuts there's no way to run the tool over the rivets' and
then after thinking a bit, I tried running the tool between the dimples
about 1 1\2" @ a time, it takes a little longer than the one pass prior
to dimpling, but it seemed to work out fine, I'll let you know tomorrow
when I drive some rivets.
PS. I'm taking a tip from Mike How and Sean Steven's and back riveting
as much as possible, I did the bottom skin and it worked just fine. I
stopped by the Iron salvage/supply and found a piece of 1/4" plate about
12" x 16". They charged me $15 for it. took the belt sander to it to
clean it up a bit, and I've now got a Jumbo back rivet plate!!
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim travel |
The discussion of trim tab travel ( and -10 akro ) failed to mention a
problem I encountered when I built the bracket for the trim motor. You'll
need to check for complete travel of the trim bellcrank in the slot provided
in the bracket. When I ran the trim motor to its full extension, which
would be nose up trim I believe, the bellcrank contacted the forward edge of
the slot before the motor reached its full travel. A little filing solved
the problem. Also check for clearance of the bolts on the bellcrank and
cable. Either one could limit trim movement.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Getting Trim System to work |
Sorry to have been out of the "loop" for a couple of days, but I still
wanted make a <2G weigh-in on the issue:
I rolled out of bed this morning, which entailed a twisting motion in my
back. After getting dressed, I tied my shoes with two perfectly executed
loops per boot. All the stresses in my structure that I noticed were
normal, and there has been no residual stress or deforming that I can see or
feel....
Have a great building weekend!
Rob
#392 H.S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
| From: | "John Erickson" <Droopy(at)ericksonjc.com> |
Folks,
Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you use an
extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the drill
bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot in
the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger and
realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill bit
than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs from
Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put a hole
in the steel tube?
Thanks,
John
#40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates for
my planned cuban 8... :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
Use a center punch at the desired location as a "starter" for the bit.
-Sean #40303
John Erickson wrote:
> Folks,
>
> Working on the ailerons, and I'm matchdrilling the aileron
> counterweights through the A-1004 nose ribs (the part where you use an
> extended bit). Instead of drilling a hole in the steel tube, the drill
> bit is just drifting along the hole in the nose rib cutting a slot in
> the softer aluminum instead. I tried stabilizing it with a finger and
> realized quickly that my finger fairs less well against the drill bit
> than the soft aluminum. While I wait for a couple new nose ribs from
> Van's, do any of you who have been there and done that have any
> suggestions for how to get the drill to stay in one place and put a
> hole in the steel tube?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
> #40208 Working on design for aileron spades to increase roll rates for
> my planned cuban 8... :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
Center punch works well also use a drill press and to keep the material from
"rolling" use a v block. Probably would be best to loop a clamp over the
material to keep any twist out of it. Suggest possibly tying a double Cuban
eight to also hold it tight. Be advised that to Immelman it will be
impossible. Bob K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Let The Music Begin |
*http://tinyurl.com/c493e
Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
*-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim travel |
Yup...that's a "keeper" tip...I had the same issue.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
aerobatics)
| Subject: | Tailcone question (sorry...nothing to do with |
aerobatics)
I back riveted my entire tailcone short of the top skins, and I used the little
plate from Cleaveland, I used towels to set the tailcone even with the top of
the plate and just moved along. Bottom first then one side then the other rolling
the tailcone over after eack side was completed to get to the other side....Sh*t.....I
said roll the tailcone didn't I!!!
In this case I would be guilty of rolling while deadstick....
My tailcone came out very nicely doing this.
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Let The Music Begin |
Hmm...
Guess the link was bad.
Here it is again in long form.
<http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/a-sound-idea/2005/08/18/1123958182084.html?oneclick=true>
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/c493e
>
> Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
>
> *-Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Let The Music Begin |
Sean,
I may not be doing something right, but even with the long link I just
get connected to a site to register for the Sydney Morning Herald???
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Let The Music Begin
Hmm...
Guess the link was bad.
Here it is again in long form.
<http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/a-sound-idea/2005/08/18/1123958182084.h
tml?oneclick=true>
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> *http://tinyurl.com/c493e
>
> Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
>
> *-Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Let The Music Begin |
Geesh,
Ok, let's just try this link and let y'all get there on your own. :)
<http://science.slashdot.org/science/05/08/20/0138246.shtml?tid=126&tid=99&tid=14>
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Sean,
> I may not be doing something right, but even with the long link I just
> get connected to a site to register for the Sydney Morning Herald???
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:54 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Let The Music Begin
>
>
> Hmm...
>
> Guess the link was bad.
>
> Here it is again in long form.
>
> <http://www.smh.com.au/news/national/a-sound-idea/2005/08/18/1123958182084.h
> tml?oneclick=true>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>>
>> *http://tinyurl.com/c493e
>>
>> Now I have an excuse to hook up those external speakers!
>>
>> *-Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Let The Music Begin |
Just a sound idea to keep an aircraft up
By Richard Macey
August 19, 2005
There have been singing birthday cards, singing cowboys and even a singing
detective.
Next could be the singing aircraft, or at least planes with singing wings.
A Qantas aerospace engineer has found a way to make small planes safer and
more efficient by turning their wings into flying speakers that can beat out
a tune.
To stay aloft, a plane must keep air flowing tightly over its wings. This is
not difficult in mid-flight, but can be tricky when traveling slowly for
take-off or landing,
To fly slowly, pilots raise the nose of the plane, says the engineer, Ian
Salmon. But if it is raised too high, air flowing over the wing can become
"detached" from the wing surface. The plane then risks stalling and possibly
crashing.
Mr Salmon said engineers had known since the 1940s that blasting a plane's
wings with sound helped keep air flowing over the wings. The concept had
been demonstrated by placing speakers in a wind tunnel and bombarding model
planes with noise.
However, Mr Salmon conceded yesterday, building giant speakers at airports
was not only impracticable, it would anger local residents who are already
annoyed by aircraft noise.
Instead, he has successfully experimented with covering the upper surface of
an aircraft wing with thin film-like panels linked to wires. When the wires
are electrified, the panels vibrate 400 times a second, producing an audible
buzz.
In wind-tunnel tests at the University of NSW, "singing wings" were able to
"fly" at much steeper angles - up to 22 degrees above the horizontal,
compared with the normal maximum of about 17 degrees.
"It gives you more of a safety margin, and more time for the pilot to react
in an emergency, such as an engine failure on take-off or a sudden wind
gust," Mr Salmon said.
In his research, which is part of his aerospace engineer degree at the
university, he even pumped music through his wing speakers, looking at how
well the hard-rock Australian group Spiderbait made a plane fly, compared
with the ethereal British band Radiohead.
"All we can say is that Spiderbait performs better than Radiohead," said Mr
Salmon.
The next step would be to test the singing wing on an unmanned aircraft.
Mr Salmon said that if they could make small aircraft perform better at low
speed, it should be possible to build planes with smaller wings, which would
be lighter, less thirsty, and thus cheaper to fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Problems drilling the aileron counterweight tube |
John,
I am also the proud owner of an extra aileron nose rib. Found the best way
is simply to mark the counterweight with the drill bit and then remove, centerpunch
and drill. Do this for both counterweight nose ribs. When you attach
the nose ribs to the counterweight with the screws you may need to finess the
tabs a bit to get a good fit. A flat tab against a rounded surface and all.
It will all fit well once you put it back together.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ David McNeill ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: David McNeill
Lists: RV-List,RV10-List
Subject: AMSAFE inertial belts
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dlm46007@cox.net.08.20.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Another aileron tip |
That elevator bucking bar comes in handy when you rivet the second skin to the
spar flange of either the aileron or the flap. Use the flat side opposite the
angled side used on the elevator. Fits between the skins nicely and is heavy
enough to not bounce around while you rivet. You won't dent the skins as Van's
warns about. And you thought you'd never use that thing again.......
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another aileron tip |
I also did that and it works great. That bucking bar also gets modified
a tad and is used on the fuse.
See Section 29 Page 16
<http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec29-pg16.html>
-Sean #40303
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> That elevator bucking bar comes in handy when you rivet the second
> skin to the spar flange of either the aileron or the flap. Use the
> flat side opposite the angled side used on the elevator. Fits between
> the skins nicely and is heavy enough to not bounce around while you
> rivet. You won't dent the skins as Van's warns about. And you
> thought you'd never use that thing again.......
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron hinge brackets |
I'm working on the aileron hinge brackets and have run into a problem. After match
drilling the two sides and the middle spacer, I pressed the bearing into
the spacer and tried to reassemble the bracket. The match drilled holes no longer
line up. The recess in the sides for the bearing seem out of line and won't
allow both sides and the spacer to go into their proper alignment. I've enlarged
the recess in the sides enough to get the match drilled holes back in
line but wonder if this is the proper thing to do. Am I compromising the structural
integrity of the bracket? Anyone else see this problem?
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron hinge brackets |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Funny thing, I just did this a half hour ago. But I had no problem whatsoever.
Bearings popped right in with out needing a press and everything still lined
up. Any chance you swapped some parts around?
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 rear spar
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron hinge brackets
I'm working on the aileron hinge brackets and have run into a problem. After match
drilling the two sides and the middle spacer, I pressed the bearing into
the spacer and tried to reassemble the bracket. The match drilled holes no longer
line up. The recess in the sides for the bearing seem out of line and won't
allow both sides and the spacer to go into their proper alignment. I've enlarged
the recess in the sides enough to get the match drilled holes back in
line but wonder if this is the proper thing to do. Am I compromising the structural
integrity of the bracket? Anyone else see this problem?
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron hinge brackets |
Michael,
Double checked the parts, no mistake. Friend of mine received his wings about
the same time as I did and had the same problem. I did need to press the
bearing into the spacer, it would not just slide in. Seems as though the recess
in the side pieces is slightly out of wack. Rivet holes lined up perfectly
until the bearing was pressed into place. Hello Van's....john
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of me
I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it from
the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the 1/2"
material to be cut to length.
Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is a
QB.
Thanks,
Marcus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Marcus,
I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
me
> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
from
> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
1/2"
> material to be cut to length.
>
> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
a
> QB.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Hall <phil(at)asibuildings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Anh,
Did you get the engine mount pictures. I sent them four different times
but the kept coming back, except the last time.
Phil
>
>Marcus,
>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>Anh
>#141
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>me
>> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>from
>> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>1/2"
>> material to be cut to length.
>>
>> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>a
>> QB.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. |
A while back we had a discussion on spacer bolts to temporary replace wing
bolts while working on the fuselage. Did any one save that. I thought I
did but can't find it. I'm at a point I need to roll into that part of the
construction.
Bob K
Had an interesting vision. A 4 ship doing a flyby at OSH and Van watching.
Yup we did a formation barrel roll .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Blood pressure is back down. I decided to cut the .025
trim kit material into strips. That stuff is 15" long,
so it works for the 2 15" strips. Cut 2 more strips for
14-1/8" strips, then cut 2 more for the last ones...and
you can get 1 each of the 8-7/8" and 6" ones from each
strip. The strips aren't as pretty as a nicely sheared
strip would be, but for shims they should work.
I still believe that they should either change their plans
to show using .025, or they should send maybe 3' lengths
of .020, but as long as a builder has spared their .025 trim
bundle material, this should work fine....and what's
another .005.
Tim
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
> a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
> this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
> this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
> with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
> there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
> you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
> And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
> .025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
> shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
> wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
> have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
>
> I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
> especially if they're going to specify .020.
>
> To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
> a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
> around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
> of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
> important for them to supply the proper material up front.
>
> So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
> get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
> ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
> and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
> of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
> Hmmmm.
>
> Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
> be alone in this boat.
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Current project: Gear
>
>
>
> DejaVu wrote:
>
>>
>> Marcus,
>> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
>> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
>> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>> Anh
>> #141
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>>
>>
>> me
>>
>>> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>>
>>
>> from
>>
>>> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>>> trim
>>> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>>
>>
>> 1/2"
>>
>>> material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
>>> mine is
>>
>>
>> a
>>
>>> QB.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Marcus
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Hello Marcus:
I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a roll
of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse , that i
was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the engineers
made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were for
drill more rivets out !!
Working on top & many other things
(just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb flying
machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much better
than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a salary
far less then they get .
Brian Bollaert
40200
--- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> > attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
> me
> > I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
> from
> > the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
trim
> > pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
> 1/2"
> > material to be cut to length.
> >
> > Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
is
> a
> > QB.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Marcus
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "stevenflys1(at)juno.com" <stevenflys1(at)juno.com> |
Randy,
I am going to be in the Aurora, OR area on Tuesday or Wednesday. Is there
any chance I could stop by and view your RV-10? Possibly get a ride in exchange
for some 100LL? I will probably get a ride in the Van's demonstrator, but
I heard their ride is usually short. If you are available I would appreciate
the viewing. I am on a motorcycle trip so this will be my only chance to e-mail
you. Please call me at (864) 723-6346 if you are available. Thank you!
Steven Morris
Wannabe builder
Randy,
I am going to be in the Aurora, OR area on Tuesday or Wednesday. Is there any
chance I could stop by and view your RV-10? Possibly get a ride in exchange for
some 100LL? I will probably get a ride in the Van's demonstrator, but I heard
their ride is usually short. If you are available I would appreciate the viewing.
I am on a motorcycle trip so this will be my only chance to e-mail you.
Please call me at (864) 723-6346 if you are available. Thank you!
Steven Morris
Wannabe builder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
FYI, there was a trim bundle included with my SB fuselage kit. I'll check later
to see if .020 was included as part of that. I know that it included a couple
of approx 14-15" pieces.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
to take the sharper curve.
So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
reasonably easy to get in and out.
I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
brian bollaert wrote:
>
> Hello Marcus:
>
> I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a roll
> of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>
> Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse , that i
> was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the engineers
> made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were for
> , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh well
> drill more rivets out !!
>
>
> Working on top & many other things
> (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb flying
> machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much better
> than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a salary
> far less then they get .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> 40200
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>Marcus,
>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>Anh
>>#141
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
>>To:
>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>>
>>me
>>
>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>>
>>from
>>
>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>
> trim
>
>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>>
>>1/2"
>>
>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
>
> is
>
>>a
>>
>>>QB.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Marcus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Tim Olson wrote:
> I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
> is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
> to take the sharper curve.
Stick the hinge pin in an electric drill,
turn it slowly while inserting, and it should slide in pretty easy.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Phil,
Yes I did last night and responded offlist. Thanks.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Hall" <phil(at)asibuildings.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> Anh,
>
> Did you get the engine mount pictures. I sent them four different times
> but the kept coming back, except the last time.
>
> Phil
>
> >
> >Marcus,
> >I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> >out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> >the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> >Anh
> >#141
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
> >To:
> >Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> >Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> >> attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
> >me
> >> I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
> >from
> >> the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
trim
> >> pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
> >1/2"
> >> material to be cut to length.
> >>
> >> Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
is
> >a
> >> QB.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Marcus
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Tim,
Remember too that the pins that came (in the fese kit) already installed on
the hinges are tempary. They're fat. The real ones are a bit smaller in
the finish kit.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
> oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
> decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
> will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
> pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
>
> But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
> try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
> the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
> hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
>
> I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
> is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
> to take the sharper curve.
>
> So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
> going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
> the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
> on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
> to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
> reasonably easy to get in and out.
>
> I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
> the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
> mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> brian bollaert wrote:
> >
> > Hello Marcus:
> >
> > I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
roll
> > of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
> >
> > Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
that i
> > was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
engineers
> > made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were
for
> > , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
well
> > drill more rivets out !!
> >
> >
> > Working on top & many other things
> > (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
flying
> > machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
better
> > than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
salary
> > far less then they get .
> >
> > Brian Bollaert
> > 40200
> >
> > --- Original Message -----
> > From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Marcus,
> >>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
> >>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
> >>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> >>Anh
> >>#141
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
> >>To:
> >>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> >>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> >>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
> >>
> >>me
> >>
> >>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
> >>
> >>from
> >>
> >>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
> >
> > trim
> >
> >>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
> >>
> >>1/2"
> >>
> >>>material to be cut to length.
> >>>
> >>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
> >
> > is
> >
> >>a
> >>
> >>>QB.
> >>>
> >>>Thanks,
> >>>Marcus
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--
8/19/2005
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Also, you need to file the end of the pin into almost a "chisel" shape, and
then insert it into the hinge with the chisel facing up. That will help
guide it through the curve. It's no big deal when you use the right size
pin and file the end appropriately.
FWIW, my hinge pins on my -7, which I'm sure have slightly more aggressive
curves than the -10's firewall slide in and out easily.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
> Tim,
> Remember too that the pins that came (in the fese kit) already installed
> on
> the hinges are tempary. They're fat. The real ones are a bit smaller in
> the finish kit.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 2:49 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
>> oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
>> decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
>> will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
>> pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
>>
>> But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
>> try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
>> the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
>> hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
>>
>> I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
>> is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
>> to take the sharper curve.
>>
>> So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
>> going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
>> the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
>> on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
>> to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
>> reasonably easy to get in and out.
>>
>> I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
>> the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
>> mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
>>
>>
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>
>>
>> brian bollaert wrote:
>
>> >
>> > Hello Marcus:
>> >
>> > I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
> roll
>> > of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>> >
>> > Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
> that i
>> > was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
> engineers
>> > made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were
> for
>> > , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
> well
>> > drill more rivets out !!
>> >
>> >
>> > Working on top & many other things
>> > (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
> flying
>> > machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
> better
>> > than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
> salary
>> > far less then they get .
>> >
>> > Brian Bollaert
>> > 40200
>> >
>> > --- Original Message -----
>> > From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
>> > To:
>> > Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
>> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >>
>> >>Marcus,
>> >>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
> worked
>> >>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
> with
>> >>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>> >>Anh
>> >>#141
>> >>
>> >>----- Original Message -----
>> >>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
>> >>To:
>> >>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>> >>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
>> >>>that
>> >>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
> of
>> >>
>> >>me
>> >>
>> >>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>> >>
>> >>from
>> >>
>> >>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>> >
>> > trim
>> >
>> >>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>> >>
>> >>1/2"
>> >>
>> >>>material to be cut to length.
>> >>>
>> >>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
>> >>>mine
>> >
>> > is
>> >
>> >>a
>> >>
>> >>>QB.
>> >>>
>> >>>Thanks,
>> >>>Marcus
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>--
> 8/19/2005
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Tim and other FB fuselage folks - my SB fuselage trim bundle included (2) 24"x1.5x.032
and (2) 24"x1.5x.025 pieces of alclad. No .020 of any size.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
FYI, there was a trim bundle included with my SB fuselage kit. I'll check later
to see if .020 was included as part of that. I know that it included a couple
of approx 14-15" pieces.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Hey Anh, thanks for the reminder. That would make a big difference for
sure...using a smaller pin. I remember that the hinges get the pins
tossed away, but wasn't sure that the cowling pins were included
in that. The Chisel point concep of Dan's is a good one too.
I did have mine formed into a cone shape, so that should be
workable, but a chisel point could have that angle cut all the way
across the diameter, which would help even more.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
DejaVu wrote:
>
> Tim,
> Remember too that the pins that came (in the fese kit) already installed on
> the hinges are tempary. They're fat. The real ones are a bit smaller in
> the finish kit.
>
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 2:49 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
>>oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
>>decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
>>will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
>>pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
>>
>>But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
>>try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
>>the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
>>hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
>>
>>I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
>>is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
>>to take the sharper curve.
>>
>>So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
>>going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
>>the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
>>on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
>>to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
>>reasonably easy to get in and out.
>>
>>I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
>>the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
>>mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
>>
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>
>>
>>brian bollaert wrote:
>>
>
>
>
>>>Hello Marcus:
>>>
>>>I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
>
> roll
>
>>>of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>>>
>>>Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
>
> that i
>
>>>was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
>
> engineers
>
>>>made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they were
>
> for
>
>>>, they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
>
> well
>
>>>drill more rivets out !!
>>>
>>>
>>>Working on top & many other things
>>>(just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
>
> flying
>
>>>machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
>
> better
>
>>>than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
>
> salary
>
>>>far less then they get .
>>>
>>>Brian Bollaert
>>>40200
>>>
>>>--- Original Message -----
>>>From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
>>>To:
>>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
>>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>Marcus,
>>>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
>
> worked
>
>>>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
>
> with
>
>>>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>>>Anh
>>>>#141
>>>>
>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
>>>>To:
>>>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>>>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
>
> of
>
>>>>me
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>>>>
>>>>from
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>>>
>>>trim
>>>
>>>
>>>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>>>>
>>>>1/2"
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>>>
>>>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine
>>>
>>>is
>>>
>>>
>>>>a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>QB.
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks,
>>>>>Marcus
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>--
>
> 8/19/2005
>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spacer bolts for wing spars through the fuselage. |
Bob,
8 Pcs 4.5" x 3/8"
8 Pcs 3/8" Bolt
16 Pcs 3/9" Washer
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2005 08:22:27 -0700
A while back we had a discussion on spacer bolts to temporary replace wing
bolts while working on the fuselage. Did any one save that. I thought I
did but can't find it. I'm at a point I need to roll into that part of the
construction.
Bob K
Had an interesting vision. A 4 ship doing a flyby at OSH and Van watching.
Yup we did a formation barrel roll .
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
I never found it. I used .025. Works fine. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
FYI, there was a trim bundle included with my SB fuselage kit. I'll
check later to see if .020 was included as part of that. I know that it
included a couple of approx 14-15" pieces.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
Now Darnit-all Marcus, you've gone and raised my blood pressure
a couple ticks again. I too am JUST about to do this step
this a.m. and saw your post. I verified that I too don't have
this .020 shim material. In fact, Van's trim pkg that you get
with the emp. cone has a little .015, and a little .025, but
there is nothing in .020. Worse yet, just like you mentioned,
you need longer pieces than what comes in the trim kit.
And, to drive the nail deeper, sure, you can cut it out of that
.025 trim pkg stock, but how many builders have a nice metal
shear at home so they can make a couple of nice, straight, 1/2"
wide pieces. Now if I have to cut it on the bandsaw, it'll
have to be done with a steady hand and great measurements.
I agree...they should have sent this stuff with the kit,
especially if they're going to specify .020.
To those who have built the other RV's....you have to understand,
a builder of a -10 doesn't really HAVE any scrap materials laying
around. They send you what you need, and you rarely have much
of anything useful left over. That makes it all the more
important for them to supply the proper material up front.
So now I have to decide...put the engine mount on today and
get the gear on WITHOUT doing the hinges....and have them
ship some strips....-or-....use the WRONG thickness of material,
and try to do a hack job to create them myself, with some
of them not being long enough so I have to piece them together.
Hmmmm.
Let me know how you go about it Marcus...it's nice to not
be alone in this boat.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Gear
DejaVu wrote:
>
> Marcus,
> I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
> out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
> the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
> Anh
> #141
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
that
>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
>
> me
>
>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it
>
> from
>
>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
trim
>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the
>
> 1/2"
>
>>material to be cut to length.
>>
>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
mine is
>
> a
>
>>QB.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Marcus
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Tim, the pins are changed out to .090 stainless steel pins on the top
only. They slide in fine on mine. In fact I heard a hint the other day.
I was to use Marvel Mystery oil on the hinge pins. It does seem to work.
I wouldn't give up on the hinge pin. Make sure you make them out of .090
stainless. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges
oh so nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had
decided beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I
will use either screws or camlocs there...since the hinge
pins or eyelets break down there after time from what I hear.
But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd
try to pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of
the way off, and then reinstall it...with someone helping
hold the alignment as I pushed in the pin.
I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin
is nothing too easy to slide in, especially once it starts
to take the sharper curve.
So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm
going to count out how many camlocs to get, and order up
the materials needed to do the job. I'll still have hinges
on the lower cowl, going down the side, and from front
to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd be
reasonably easy to get in and out.
I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For
the rest of the day, I'm going to try to get the engine
mount on and see if I can get the gear under it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
brian bollaert wrote:
>
> Hello Marcus:
>
> I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
roll
> of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>
> Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
that i
> was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
engineers
> made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they
were for
> , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
well
> drill more rivets out !!
>
>
> Working on top & many other things
> (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
flying
> machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
better
> than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
salary
> far less then they get .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> 40200
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>Marcus,
>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>Anh
>>#141
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
>>To:
>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
that
>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
>>
>>me
>>
>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make
it
>>
>>from
>>
>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>
> trim
>
>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply
the
>>
>>1/2"
>>
>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
mine
>
> is
>
>>a
>>
>>>QB.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Marcus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
8/19/2005
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jdalton77(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Titanium Rivets anyone? |
I recently read an article about Titanium rivets on aircraft and was wondering
if anyone is using them to construct their -10 (or other homebuilt projects).
They are more expensive but are significantly lighter than standard rivets.
What comes with the -10 kit?
Jeff
Still dreaming of building while flying a Piper Spamcan
I recently read an article about Titanium rivets on aircraft and was wondering
if anyone is using them to construct their -10 (or other homebuilt projects).
They are more expensive but are significantly lighter than standard rivets. What
comes with the -10 kit?
Jeff
Still dreaming of building while flying a Piper Spamcan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | Back rivet on tailcone |
Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap issues. I
decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in each of the side skins.
They turned out great.
I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am curious how you
keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I remove a stretch of clecoes
the length of my back rivet plate (about 16 inches) I still have all the other
clecos holding the bottom skin on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat on
the surface of my workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire tailcone using
a couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to match.
Is there an easier way?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet on tailcone |
Hi Kent,
I "fed" the tail cone on to a back rivet plate on my work bench from
a saw horse... removing clecos as I got to the edge of the table...
starting from the back of the cone and working forward.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wing Inventory
On Aug 22, 2005, at 9:49 AM, Kent Forsythe wrote:
>
>
> Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin
> overlap issues. I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight
> bend in each of the side skins. They turned out great.
>
> I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am
> curious how you keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I
> remove a stretch of clecoes the length of my back rivet plate
> (about 16 inches) I still have all the other clecos holding the
> bottom skin on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat on the
> surface of my workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire
> tailcone using a couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to
> match.
>
> Is there an easier way?
>
> Kent Forsythe
> 40338
> Tailcone
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet on tailcone |
Kent, what I did was cleco from INSIDE of the tailcone, the part of the
cleco that sticks out extends less than the thickness of the back rivet
plate, I would load and tape the rivets ( I did all 3 stiffeners in
parallel), turn the tailcone over on it's side and then position the
back rivet plate so the the extending cleco butted up against the back
rivet plate, this gave one rivet spacing 'margin' for the last rivet in
the line. 3 'lines' of 10-14 rivets each this way, I finished up on
sat and it turned out great.
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>
>Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap issues.
I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in each of the side skins.
They turned out great.
>
>I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am curious how you
keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I remove a stretch of clecoes
the length of my back rivet plate (about 16 inches) I still have all the other
clecos holding the bottom skin on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat
on the surface of my workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire tailcone using
a couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to match.
>
>Is there an easier way?
>
>Kent Forsythe
>40338
>Tailcone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back rivet on tailcone |
Another trick which I used was to cleco from the "inside". This allows
you to set the skin of the tailcone on the backing plate with the "tip"
of the clecos hangin over the edge of the plate.
-Sean #40303
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> Hi Kent,
>
> I "fed" the tail cone on to a back rivet plate on my work bench from
> a saw horse... removing clecos as I got to the edge of the table...
> starting from the back of the cone and working forward.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Wing Inventory
>
>
> On Aug 22, 2005, at 9:49 AM, Kent Forsythe wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap
>> issues. I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in
>> each of the side skins. They turned out great.
>>
>> I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am
>> curious how you keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I
>> remove a stretch of clecoes the length of my back rivet plate (about
>> 16 inches) I still have all the other clecos holding the bottom skin
>> on keeping me from laying the tailcone flat on the surface of my
>> workbench. I guess I could elevate the entire tailcone using a
>> couple of 2x4s and raise my back rivet plate up to match.
>>
>> Is there an easier way?
>>
>> Kent Forsythe
>> 40338
>> Tailcone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Back rivet on tailcone |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I have bought the back rivet bucking bar from Avery. Very nice size
unit with a round head that only requires removing one extra cleco.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe
Subject: RV10-List: Back rivet on tailcone
Again...thanks to all of you with advice on my tailcone skin overlap
issues. I decided to use a hand seamer and put a slight bend in each of
the side skins. They turned out great.
I think I will back rivet as many of you have recommended. I am curious
how you keep it clecoed and still back rivet. Even if I remove a
stretch of clecoes the length of my back rivet plate (about 16 inches) I
still have all the other clecos holding the bottom skin on keeping me
from laying the tailcone flat on the surface of my workbench. I guess I
could elevate the entire tailcone using a couple of 2x4s and raise my
back rivet plate up to match.
Is there an easier way?
Kent Forsythe
40338
Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Baggage Door Lock Possibility? |
Ran across this little item from a catalog. Looks like it may be an
option for the baggage door lock without requiring the purchase of the
key switch for those of us using a push button start?
<http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
Hmmm, for only $15 I might give it a try.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tailcone questions |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
1.90 HTTP_CTRL_CHARS_HOST URI: Uses control sequences inside a URL hostname
0.48 HTTP_ESCAPED_HOST URI: Uses %-escapes inside a URL's hostname
0.06 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
Hey all -
In the spirit of all the discussion about tailcone items, I've got a
couple questions. I'm currently at the dimpling/countersinking stage,
and I've become a bit confused. You're told to countersink the
longerons (except for a couple spots in the aft section), and you're
also told NOT to dimple any of the flanges/skins common to the F-1006
bulkheads. What about the first hole in the longeron? Doesn't that
share a hole with the F-1006 bulkhead and skin? I know that the little
tab on the bulkhead goes inside of the longeron, so doesn't need
dimpling, but what about the skin hole? It doesn't seem like you'd be
able to dimple it later. Also, since the F-1006 bulkhead doesn't get
riveted at this point, should I not prime it along with everything else?
Lastly, for those using Van's static option, how do you like it?
Thanks in advance
cj
#40410 tailcone
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baggage Door Lock Possibility? |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Nice. Saw one of those in Sporty's "Tool Shop" catalog, but they only had one
size.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Lock Possibility?
Ran across this little item from a catalog. Looks like it may be an
option for the baggage door lock without requiring the purchase of the
key switch for those of us using a push button start?
<http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
Hmmm, for only $15 I might give it a try.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Tim,
Having lived with the hinges 11 years on my -6, I would say that you
should consider a single pin across the top, flatter portion of the
upper cowl at the firewall, and fasteners just down around the curves.
This makes pin install/remove pretty easy, reduces the number of
fasteners (always important!), maintains a clean look across the top,
reduces cowl 'flex or bowing' between fasteners, etc.
I still use 2 hinges on my -6, but I put them in a battery powered drill
and tapered them across a grinder and smoothed them on a scotchbrite
wheel, so they are thick in the straight portions and thinner around the
corners.
Finally, the hinges 'get looser' after you run the engine some, so
aren't as hard to get in/out after a while.
Dw
RV-6 N790DW
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
Tim, the pins are changed out to .090 stainless steel pins on the top
only. They slide in fine on mine. In fact I heard a hint the other day.
I was to use Marvel Mystery oil on the hinge pins. It does seem to work.
I wouldn't give up on the hinge pin. Make sure you make them out of .090
stainless. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
Well, after cutting all of these shims, and cutting the hinges oh so
nicely, I got the top and side hinges all installed. I had decided
beforehand to leave the bottom hinges off, since I will use either
screws or camlocs there...since the hinge pins or eyelets break down
there after time from what I hear.
But, after getting them all cleco'd into place, I decided I'd try to
pull the hinge pin on one of the top hinges most of the way off, and
then reinstall it...with someone helping hold the alignment as I pushed
in the pin.
I found that just as I had imagined it would be, that pin is nothing too
easy to slide in, especially once it starts to take the sharper curve.
So, I won't be going with hinges on the top of the cowl. I'm going to
count out how many camlocs to get, and order up the materials needed to
do the job. I'll still have hinges on the lower cowl, going down the
side, and from front to rear on the cowl seam. Those seem like they'd
be reasonably easy to get in and out.
I'll take photos once I get all the stuff together. For the rest of the
day, I'm going to try to get the engine mount on and see if I can get
the gear under it.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
brian bollaert wrote:
>
> Hello Marcus:
>
> I had the same problem a month ago ,i called Van's and they sent me a
roll
> of the 1.2 inch material , i also have a QB.
>
> Also there are some rivet holes left open on the sides of the fuse ,
that i
> was wondering about for some time , i called and was told that the
engineers
> made a mistake so go ahead and fill them in , i now know what they
were for
> , they are used to help align the doors when you are fitting them , oh
well
> drill more rivets out !!
>
>
> Working on top & many other things
> (just a thought ) Anyone that takes on building one of these superb
flying
> machines could run a large Corp with all the skills required ! much
better
> than the people you read about in the news all the time , & take a
salary
> far less then they get .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> 40200
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 10:31 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
>
>>
>>Marcus,
>>I had the same problem. Randy said that he used scrap .025 and it
worked
>>out for him. I'm also using .025 from the stack of scraps that came
with
>>the kit. I have not fitted my cowls yet.
>>Anh
>>#141
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
>>To:
>>Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2005 11:01 PM
>>Subject: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges
that
>>>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life
of
>>
>>me
>>
>>>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make
it
>>
>>from
>>
>>>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the
>
> trim
>
>>>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply
the
>>
>>1/2"
>>
>>>material to be cut to length.
>>>
>>>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters,
mine
>
> is
>
>>a
>>
>>>QB.
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>Marcus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>--
8/19/2005
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Collison Avoidance Information |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I just talked with the engineers at SureCheck Aviation. They are the
same company as the Zaon Flight Systems www.zaonflight.com
<http://www.zaonflight.com/> who are coming out with the new XRX system
this November. Anyway, the current VRX system you can get either panel
mounted, rack mounted, or under the panel mounted. This winter they
will offer the XRX in a panel mounted version and they will give you
100% value on the VRX to upgrade to the XRX. The XRX will also fit in
the exact same hole as the VRX. The XRX has direction on it which is
very cool. Anyway, I was concerned that I would get the VRX and not be
able to upgrade.
FYI
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting looks
much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4 inch
access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if your
tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
Jim
40383
Building slow build fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
Jim,
I built my tanks as per the plans. I did use the tank dimple dies but on
the rib flanges only. The skin was dimpled with the regular dimple die. I should
correct that, I did both skins and flanges with the tank dies on the first
tank and didn't like the rivets. They seem to "float" some when you set them.
By using the tank dies on the flanges only you make a small space between the
skin and the flange that fills with proseal. The factory head of the rivet
is more stable when you set it. I coated the flanges inside with proseal and
put a bead around anything that might leak. Leak test was fine on both. If you
coat the flanges with proseal and then rivet you will still get proseal seaping
through the holes. You'd have to build the tank completely without proseal
then go back and seal. It could work dry but the idea of putting access plates
in the rear baffle introduces more sources of leaks, I don't like that.
Nothing's forever so I guess we'll all eventually have to deal with leaky tanks
but hell my Piper Arrow was 35 years old before they started leaking.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Denk" <akroguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
>
>I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
>Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting looks
>much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
>ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4 inch
>access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
>patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if
>your
>tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
>Jim
>40383
>Building slow build fuselage
No thanks. What about all the rivet lines along the ribs? You'll have a
seepy, weepy mess. You're supposed to reach in through all those baffle
holes you cut out to glop sealant on them?
Build them right, with sealant, on every rib and baffle flange, as you
assemble them. I have five years on my RV8 with no leaks. I've never heard
of anyone building them dry. There was the day of using "slosh" to coat the
inside of the tanks but that turned into a real nightmare....globs of it
plugging up the fuel strainers.
Once you get rolling with the whole prosealing process, it's really not that
bad. Just keep the sets clean (wipe with solvent after every rivet), wear
two pairs of powderless latex gloves, and it'll turn out fine.
Or....buy QB wings or just the pre-assembled tanks and fuhgedaboudit!!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
Anyone doing pre-assembled -10 tanks yet?
-Sean
Brian Denk wrote:
>
>>
>> I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
>> Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting
>> looks
>> much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
>> ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put
>> 4 inch
>> access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
>> patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of
>> if your
>> tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
>> Jim
>> 40383
>> Building slow build fuselage
>
>
> No thanks. What about all the rivet lines along the ribs? You'll
> have a seepy, weepy mess. You're supposed to reach in through all
> those baffle holes you cut out to glop sealant on them?
>
> Build them right, with sealant, on every rib and baffle flange, as you
> assemble them. I have five years on my RV8 with no leaks. I've never
> heard of anyone building them dry. There was the day of using "slosh"
> to coat the inside of the tanks but that turned into a real
> nightmare....globs of it plugging up the fuel strainers.
>
> Once you get rolling with the whole prosealing process, it's really
> not that bad. Just keep the sets clean (wipe with solvent after every
> rivet), wear two pairs of powderless latex gloves, and it'll turn out
> fine.
>
> Or....buy QB wings or just the pre-assembled tanks and fuhgedaboudit!!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV10 '51
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Let us know how will that works! Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting
looks much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange
of the ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to
put 4 inch access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head
and also to patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a
matter of if your tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
Jim
40383
Building slow build fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
A while back, someone on the list proposed thinning the tank sealant with MEK.
While MEK is really nasty, it does work really well to thin out the tank sealant.
(ie. do this outside with LOTS of ventillation).
I tried this with my flap trailing edges. Mixed in some MEK to the point where
I could suck it up with a $1.69 syringe from the pharmacy. It made dispensing
the stuff a whole lot easier and net nearly as messy. The joints were easlily
riveted and the excess tank sealant readily squeezed out. It harded up as
if I had not cut it with the MEK.
The syringe was tossed, but it made the process really easy. The stuff was still
plenty sticky. Once the syringe was loaded, I covered the unused stuff. No
nasty odors to deal with.
I would really like to know if there is something other than MEK that can be used
to thin the tank sealant.
I plan on doing the same with the tanks. I will know soon how well this works
on the tank.
My opinion FWIW, would be to build the tanks with sealant between the ribs and
skin. Just thin some of it to make it easier to work with.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Jim,
See the link below about thinning tank sealant. Use toluene.
<http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf>
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
A while back, someone on the list proposed thinning the tank sealant with MEK.
While MEK is really nasty, it does work really well to thin out the tank sealant.
(ie. do this outside with LOTS of ventillation).
I tried this with my flap trailing edges. Mixed in some MEK to the point where
I could suck it up with a $1.69 syringe from the pharmacy. It made dispensing
the stuff a whole lot easier and net nearly as messy. The joints were easlily
riveted and the excess tank sealant readily squeezed out. It harded up as
if I had not cut it with the MEK.
The syringe was tossed, but it made the process really easy. The stuff was still
plenty sticky. Once the syringe was loaded, I covered the unused stuff. No
nasty odors to deal with.
I would really like to know if there is something other than MEK that can be used
to thin the tank sealant.
I plan on doing the same with the tanks. I will know soon how well this works
on the tank.
My opinion FWIW, would be to build the tanks with sealant between the ribs and
skin. Just thin some of it to make it easier to work with.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
I asked Van's if they had plans to offer prebuilt tanks, they said no. You
also see I think they discontinued the offer on the RV-9. There is a service
which will do your tanks using your tank parts.
http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/RV-10%20Tanks.htm
Chris Lucas
#40072
N919AR (reserved)
tanks (saving $1700)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
>
> Anyone doing pre-assembled -10 tanks yet?
>
> -Sean
>
> Brian Denk wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
>>> Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting
>>> looks
>>> much better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the
>>> ribs.I do know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4
>>> inch
>>> access holes in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to
>>> patch any leaks. I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if
>>> your
>>> tank leaks, it when!!! Any comments???
>>> Jim
>>> 40383
>>> Building slow build fuselage
>>
>>
>> No thanks. What about all the rivet lines along the ribs? You'll have a
>> seepy, weepy mess. You're supposed to reach in through all those baffle
>> holes you cut out to glop sealant on them?
>>
>> Build them right, with sealant, on every rib and baffle flange, as you
>> assemble them. I have five years on my RV8 with no leaks. I've never
>> heard of anyone building them dry. There was the day of using "slosh" to
>> coat the inside of the tanks but that turned into a real
>> nightmare....globs of it plugging up the fuel strainers.
>>
>> Once you get rolling with the whole prosealing process, it's really not
>> that bad. Just keep the sets clean (wipe with solvent after every
>> rivet), wear two pairs of powderless latex gloves, and it'll turn out
>> fine.
>>
>> Or....buy QB wings or just the pre-assembled tanks and fuhgedaboudit!!
>>
>> Brian Denk
>> RV8 N94BD
>> RV10 '51
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ganster" <tganster(at)frontiernet.net> |
Are there any RV builders in the Salt Lake City area that I could
correspond with that might be able to inspect the quality of a partially
build RV10 in your area?
I live in the Green Bay area and am interested in building an RV10. Tim,
you live in WI don't you? Would be interested in seeing your project if
we could arrange it some time. Tom Ganster tganster(at)frontiernet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I believe that Mike Howe lives in the SLC area here's his URL
http://www.etigerrr.com/. i believe that Scott Schmidt also lives in the
valley.
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
Tom Ganster wrote:
> Are there any RV builders in the Salt Lake City area that I could
> correspond with that might be able to inspect the quality of a
> partially build RV10 in your area?
>
> I live in the Green Bay area and am interested in building an RV10.
> Tim, you live in WI dont you? Would be interested in seeing your
> project if we could arrange it some time. Tom Ganster
> tganster(at)frontiernet.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I am building mine in Ogden, about 35 miles north of the SLC international
airport. I am a novice builder, but you could come on by and see all my
birth marks.....
I currently have my wings at about 80% and started on the fuselage
tonight... .001% done.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Ganster
Subject: RV10-List: RV builders
Are there any RV builders in the Salt Lake City area that I could correspond
with that might be able to inspect the quality of a partially build RV10 in
your area?
I live in the Green Bay area and am interested in building an RV10. Tim, you
live in WI don't you? Would be interested in seeing your project if we could
arrange it some time. Tom Ganster tganster(at)frontiernet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
Build your tanks wet and stick with Van's instructions. I have a small leak with
wet built tanks on my RV7 which I'm going to fix today as a matter of fact.
The cutting of access holes in the back will only be another source for a potential
leak. So is every rivet hole.
I would change friends or build the tanks wet. It's messy and it's smelly that's
all. Get a good quantity of MEK and mix proseal in small batches, you'll be
fine.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Wade
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 11:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
I have an RV builder friend trying to get me to build my tanks dry. No
Proseal while riviting. He says many have done it, and the riviting looks much
better. Simply use plenty of Proseal on the out side flange of the ribs.I do
know some planes are build that way. He also says to put 4 inch access holes
in the rear bulkhead to seal the rear bulk head and also to patch any leaks.
I have heard several RVers say it's not a matter of if your tank leaks, it when!!!
Any comments???
Jim
40383
Building slow build fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
Great info guys. I Wanted to do mine the Van's way, just need info to give
my friend. I think this will do it. Thanks a bunch.
Jim
-------Original Message-------
From: McGANN, Ron
Date: 08/22/05 19:40:41
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
Jim,
See the link below about thinning tank sealant. Use toluene.
<http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf>
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
A while back, someone on the list proposed thinning the tank sealant with
MEK. While MEK is really nasty, it does work really well to thin out the
tank sealant. (ie. do this outside with LOTS of ventillation).
I tried this with my flap trailing edges. Mixed in some MEK to the point
where I could suck it up with a $1.69 syringe from the pharmacy. It made
dispensing the stuff a whole lot easier and net nearly as messy. The joints
were easlily riveted and the excess tank sealant readily squeezed out. It
harded up as if I had not cut it with the MEK.
The syringe was tossed, but it made the process really easy. The stuff was
still plenty sticky. Once the syringe was loaded, I covered the unused
stuff. No nasty odors to deal with.
I would really like to know if there is something other than MEK that can be
used to thin the tank sealant.
I plan on doing the same with the tanks. I will know soon how well this
works on the tank.
My opinion FWIW, would be to build the tanks with sealant between the ribs
and skin. Just thin some of it to make it easier to work with.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
There are a number of builders that have put the tanks together using
proseal but left clecos in until the proseal set up, then set the
rivets-first inserting a small dab of proseal into the hole. I have used
this method after building the first tank wet and like it much better.
Albert Gardner
10-422
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
You are able to get the clecos out, okay?
John Jessen
(Starting the HS)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
There are a number of builders that have put the tanks together using
proseal but left clecos in until the proseal set up, then set the
rivets-first inserting a small dab of proseal into the hole. I have used
this method after building the first tank wet and like it much better.
Albert Gardner
10-422
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Any one have a set of the led nav lts? I need to know the resistor rating.
Lost mine (ouch). Colors one the resistor will work just fine.
Thank you
Noel
406-538-6574
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Build tanks dry??? |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I would not recommend doing it this way. Butter the ribs lightly, and as
you are riveting watch some squeeze out, if you wait until it is dry
then there will be no movement and if you have a larger pocket of
proseal, the cleco will lengthen to fit, but not draw as tight as a
rivet will.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert
Gardner
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Build tanks dry???
There are a number of builders that have put the tanks together using
proseal but left clecos in until the proseal set up, then set the
rivets-first inserting a small dab of proseal into the hole. I have used
this method after building the first tank wet and like it much better.
Albert Gardner
10-422
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AN Bolt Torque questions. |
I'm installing the bolts and h/w in the end of the tailcone. The Manual
says that all AN3 bolts should be torqued to 20-25 inch pounds of
torque. I've never used a torque wrench before, just used muscle to
tighten nuts and bolts up until they felt pretty tight. When I install
these and reach the 20-25 mark, it seems as though they could be
tighter. The Torque wrench 'trips' just past the point where the bolt
head seats against the material and the nut is also fully seated. I just
want to make sure that this is OK, if I was doing this on my own
without the torque wrench I'd probably have put another couple of
clinches on it. Just want somebody to verify that it's not necessary to
over tighten these
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I just got a notice that mine shipped. I'll have them in a few days
and can let you know, if nobody else fills you in.
I got the CreativAir/KillaCycle (bought from Killacycle) LED
kit...RV style. I also got the creativair (from Creativair)
strobe power supply, and the wire and bulbs from something
like strobes-n-more or whatever. (combo strobe/light from Vans)
Tim
Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
> Any one have a set of the led nav lts? I need to know the resistor
> rating. Lost mine (ouch). Colors one the resistor will work just fine.
>
>
>
> Thank you
>
>
>
> Noel
>
> 406-538-6574
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN Bolt Torque questions. |
I wondered the same thing. It seems like the Van's recommended
torque specs are lower than what I'd expect. Wasn't there a thread
about a year ago about this? I thought someone said that there
are other torque specs that are more common that are higher.
I don't know if I remember right though. I just did mine per
the torque specs in Van's manual section 5.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm installing the bolts and h/w in the end of the tailcone. The Manual
> says that all AN3 bolts should be torqued to 20-25 inch pounds of
> torque. I've never used a torque wrench before, just used muscle to
> tighten nuts and bolts up until they felt pretty tight. When I install
> these and reach the 20-25 mark, it seems as though they could be
> tighter. The Torque wrench 'trips' just past the point where the bolt
> head seats against the material and the nut is also fully seated. I just
> want to make sure that this is OK, if I was doing this on my own
> without the torque wrench I'd probably have put another couple of
> clinches on it. Just want somebody to verify that it's not necessary to
> over tighten these
>
> Deems Davis
> #406 tailcone
> http://www.deemsrv10.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AN Bolt Torque questions. |
Hi Deems,
That sounds just like my bolts at those torque values.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wing Inventory
On Aug 23, 2005, at 10:04 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm installing the bolts and h/w in the end of the tailcone. The
> Manual says that all AN3 bolts should be torqued to 20-25 inch
> pounds of torque. I've never used a torque wrench before, just used
> muscle to tighten nuts and bolts up until they felt pretty tight.
> When I install these and reach the 20-25 mark, it seems as though
> they could be tighter. The Torque wrench 'trips' just past the
> point where the bolt head seats against the material and the nut is
> also fully seated. I just want to make sure that this is OK, if I
> was doing this on my own without the torque wrench I'd probably
> have put another couple of clinches on it. Just want somebody to
> verify that it's not necessary to over tighten these
>
> Deems Davis
> #406 tailcone
> http://www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AN Bolt Torque questions. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I had the same questions about the torque as everyone else. I have
looked in 2 other aviation books that show torque specs and both of them
list the exact specs that are in Vans' manual. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Bolt Torque questions.
Hi Deems,
That sounds just like my bolts at those torque values.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wing Inventory
On Aug 23, 2005, at 10:04 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm installing the bolts and h/w in the end of the tailcone. The
> Manual says that all AN3 bolts should be torqued to 20-25 inch pounds
> of torque. I've never used a torque wrench before, just used muscle to
> tighten nuts and bolts up until they felt pretty tight.
> When I install these and reach the 20-25 mark, it seems as though they
> could be tighter. The Torque wrench 'trips' just past the point where
> the bolt head seats against the material and the nut is also fully
> seated. I just want to make sure that this is OK, if I was doing this
> on my own without the torque wrench I'd probably have put another
> couple of clinches on it. Just want somebody to verify that it's not
> necessary to over tighten these
>
> Deems Davis
> #406 tailcone
> http://www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AN Bolt Torque questions. |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
With the Nyloc nuts, you need to be careful not to over torque or you
will ruin the locking characteristics of the nylon. I know what you mean
by it not seeming like much, but make sure you torque from the nut side
and that the bolt is all the way seated in the hole before torquing. I
had asked an AP to explain why from the nut side, and he said that you
do not want any additional friction from the bolt turning in the hole,
so that is why they recommend you torque from the nut side. Sounded
right to me, but I am a geek, not an AP.
Dan
40269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: RV10-List: AN Bolt Torque questions.
I'm installing the bolts and h/w in the end of the tailcone. The Manual
says that all AN3 bolts should be torqued to 20-25 inch pounds of
torque. I've never used a torque wrench before, just used muscle to
tighten nuts and bolts up until they felt pretty tight. When I install
these and reach the 20-25 mark, it seems as though they could be
tighter. The Torque wrench 'trips' just past the point where the bolt
head seats against the material and the nut is also fully seated. I just
want to make sure that this is OK, if I was doing this on my own
without the torque wrench I'd probably have put another couple of
clinches on it. Just want somebody to verify that it's not necessary to
over tighten these
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AN Bolt Torque questions. |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
You can also use the tables in Avery's and Cleveland's tool catalogue,
or better yet the aircraft standards manual
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Bolt Torque questions.
I wondered the same thing. It seems like the Van's recommended
torque specs are lower than what I'd expect. Wasn't there a thread
about a year ago about this? I thought someone said that there
are other torque specs that are more common that are higher.
I don't know if I remember right though. I just did mine per
the torque specs in Van's manual section 5.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm installing the bolts and h/w in the end of the tailcone. The
Manual
> says that all AN3 bolts should be torqued to 20-25 inch pounds of
> torque. I've never used a torque wrench before, just used muscle to
> tighten nuts and bolts up until they felt pretty tight. When I install
> these and reach the 20-25 mark, it seems as though they could be
> tighter. The Torque wrench 'trips' just past the point where the bolt
> head seats against the material and the nut is also fully seated. I
just
> want to make sure that this is OK, if I was doing this on my own
> without the torque wrench I'd probably have put another couple of
> clinches on it. Just want somebody to verify that it's not necessary
to
> over tighten these
>
> Deems Davis
> #406 tailcone
> http://www.deemsrv10.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | AN Bolt Torque questions. |
One thing I've taken away from other RV web sites is to make sure that you
have a good torque wrench, or at least have yours calibrated. I've never
used the standard click type that I got from Sears, and am nervous about
doing so after reading how far off some of the cheaper ones can be. Anyone
have any comments about this? How to get a torque wrench calibrated?
John Jessen
(Starting HS)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: AN Bolt Torque questions.
I had the same questions about the torque as everyone else. I have looked in
2 other aviation books that show torque specs and both of them list the
exact specs that are in Vans' manual. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Bolt Torque questions.
Hi Deems,
That sounds just like my bolts at those torque values.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Wing Inventory
On Aug 23, 2005, at 10:04 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> I'm installing the bolts and h/w in the end of the tailcone. The
> Manual says that all AN3 bolts should be torqued to 20-25 inch pounds
> of torque. I've never used a torque wrench before, just used muscle to
> tighten nuts and bolts up until they felt pretty tight.
> When I install these and reach the 20-25 mark, it seems as though they
> could be tighter. The Torque wrench 'trips' just past the point where
> the bolt head seats against the material and the nut is also fully
> seated. I just want to make sure that this is OK, if I was doing this
> on my own without the torque wrench I'd probably have put another
> couple of clinches on it. Just want somebody to verify that it's not
> necessary to over tighten these
>
> Deems Davis
> #406 tailcone
> http://www.deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Regarding having a torque wrench calibrated: ask your local IA/AP where
they take theirs. We have a place here in the Dayton area that does it. My
Sears wrench passed with flying colors! How about the question of adding
"running torque" to the final torque value, that is, the torque it takes
just to turn the nyloc nut + final torque value. You'll find that a new nut
takes about 10 - 15 inch/pounds just to turn it in some cases. Do you add
that in. One IA said yes the other said no. I agree 20-25 inch/pounds
ain't much
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
The book says 20-25, we read that as 20-25. No, it doesn't seem like much,
but that's what the book says. If there was some fancy sort of way of
adding to the torque value based on what the Nyloc does, then it would say
that.
It also doesn't take an A&P to figure out that torquing from the bolt side
is going to be inaccurate. Sometimes, though, you have to do that because
of space requirements. We noticed that a lot of nutplates required more
than the specified torque just to get them to tighten all the way in on the
threads. I think we used about 40 in/lbs on the AN3's into nut plates, or
something like that, but there are precious few of those. I thinks the
torque values have to do with a certain PSI (2500PSI is the number that
sticks in my head) that the nut is putting on what it's holding. This is
why the larger nuts require larger torque values, because of the different
thread size and the larger area that the pressure is distributed over. It
also has to do with not overstressing the threads on the nut or bolt.
Notice that the torque values for thin washers are lower (I think half the
torque) because there are fewer threads holding.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Torque
Regarding having a torque wrench calibrated: ask your local IA/AP where
they take theirs. We have a place here in the Dayton area that does it. My
Sears wrench passed with flying colors! How about the question of adding
"running torque" to the final torque value, that is, the torque it takes
just to turn the nyloc nut + final torque value. You'll find that a new nut
takes about 10 - 15 inch/pounds just to turn it in some cases. Do you add
that in. One IA said yes the other said no. I agree 20-25 inch/pounds
ain't much
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
Tom, below is my contact info. I live in South Salt Lake.
Scott Schmidt
Cell 801-319-3094
Work 801-235-9001
Fax 801-235-9141
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV builders
I believe that Mike Howe lives in the SLC area here's his URL
http://www.etigerrr.com/. i believe that Scott Schmidt also lives in the
valley.
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
Tom Ganster wrote:
> Are there any RV builders in the Salt Lake City area that I could
> correspond with that might be able to inspect the quality of a
> partially build RV10 in your area?
>
> I live in the Green Bay area and am interested in building an RV10.
> Tim, you live in WI don't you? Would be interested in seeing your
> project if we could arrange it some time. Tom Ganster
> tganster(at)frontiernet.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Washers have nothing to do with Torque, unless you are talking a crush
washer and that is for sealing not torque. I FLAT washer is nothing more
than a spacer to ensure the nut does not bottom out on the unthreaded
portion of the bolt. I do agree that torque values are different based
on the distance around the bolt required to distribute the pressure on
the threads, but FLAT washers have nothing to do with torque.
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
The book says 20-25, we read that as 20-25. No, it doesn't seem like
much,
but that's what the book says. If there was some fancy sort of way of
adding to the torque value based on what the Nyloc does, then it would
say
that.
It also doesn't take an A&P to figure out that torquing from the bolt
side
is going to be inaccurate. Sometimes, though, you have to do that
because
of space requirements. We noticed that a lot of nutplates required more
than the specified torque just to get them to tighten all the way in on
the
threads. I think we used about 40 in/lbs on the AN3's into nut plates,
or
something like that, but there are precious few of those. I thinks the
torque values have to do with a certain PSI (2500PSI is the number that
sticks in my head) that the nut is putting on what it's holding. This
is
why the larger nuts require larger torque values, because of the
different
thread size and the larger area that the pressure is distributed over.
It
also has to do with not overstressing the threads on the nut or bolt.
Notice that the torque values for thin washers are lower (I think half
the
torque) because there are fewer threads holding.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Torque
Regarding having a torque wrench calibrated: ask your local IA/AP where
they take theirs. We have a place here in the Dayton area that does it.
My
Sears wrench passed with flying colors! How about the question of
adding
"running torque" to the final torque value, that is, the torque it takes
just to turn the nyloc nut + final torque value. You'll find that a new
nut
takes about 10 - 15 inch/pounds just to turn it in some cases. Do you
add
that in. One IA said yes the other said no. I agree 20-25 inch/pounds
ain't much
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Empcone question |
Quick question... on page 10-15, why is it that you cut off the
triangular portion of the side skin? Is it to clear something? I would
think that both sides would be, you know, symmetrical.
There has to be a reason, and since I don't have the main fuselage
plans, I can't tell why they want you to do it.
-Jim 40384 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Empcone question |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The triangle portion on the pilot side actually mates up w/ the bottom, aft part
of the baggage door frame. There is no baggage door on the other side.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Empcone question
Quick question... on page 10-15, why is it that you cut off the
triangular portion of the side skin? Is it to clear something? I would
think that both sides would be, you know, symmetrical.
There has to be a reason, and since I don't have the main fuselage
plans, I can't tell why they want you to do it.
-Jim 40384 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Thank you Dan. And we were taught to always torque correctly.
Too much torque can damage treads, too little torque can allow excessive
loads to be applied on a fastener resulting in later failure. To ensure
the proper preloading forces the correct force must be applied. Unless
otherwise specified "in writing" the values are for clean and dry
threads.
John (A&P) now back to my prayers on the IA exam.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
Washers have nothing to do with Torque, unless you are talking a crush
washer and that is for sealing not torque. I FLAT washer is nothing more
than a spacer to ensure the nut does not bottom out on the unthreaded
portion of the bolt. I do agree that torque values are different based
on the distance around the bolt required to distribute the pressure on
the threads, but FLAT washers have nothing to do with torque.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Empcone question |
Triangular portion on left side is for reinforcement below baggage door.
Right side is trimmed off as there is no door. I assume that the skins were
symmetrical before Vans bend them, hence the triangular portion on both
sides.
Indran Chelvanayagam
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Empcone question
Quick question... on page 10-15, why is it that you cut off the triangular
portion of the side skin? Is it to clear something? I would think that both
sides would be, you know, symmetrical.
There has to be a reason, and since I don't have the main fuselage plans, I
can't tell why they want you to do it.
-Jim 40384 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Empcone question |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Scary thought isn't it. I though about that one for a couple of days
before the cutting started. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Empcone question
Quick question... on page 10-15, why is it that you cut off the
triangular portion of the side skin? Is it to clear something? I would
think that both sides would be, you know, symmetrical.
There has to be a reason, and since I don't have the main fuselage
plans, I can't tell why they want you to do it.
-Jim 40384 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empcone question |
Very scary... get all the empcone drilled, then you have to cut your
baby... sorta like circumsizing your child, eh?
Another question: Has anyone done anything to dress up the hideous
looking rudder cable exits? Anyone got photos of it being dressed up?
I plan on doing a marathon alumiprep, alodine, priming session this
weekend to get the parts ready to rivet next week.
-Jim 40384 (Still watching Randy's video once a week... )
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
>Scary thought isn't it. I though about that one for a couple of days
>before the cutting started. Randy
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 1:55 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Empcone question
>
>
>Quick question... on page 10-15, why is it that you cut off the
>triangular portion of the side skin? Is it to clear something? I would
>think that both sides would be, you know, symmetrical.
>There has to be a reason, and since I don't have the main fuselage
>plans, I can't tell why they want you to do it.
>
>-Jim 40384 Tailcone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AN Bolt Torque questions. |
In a message dated 8/23/2005 2:01:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jjessen(at)rcn.com writes:
How to get a torque wrench calibrated?
Hang a known weight at a known distance from the center of the wrench to
the handle (1 foot works easy) and set it or read the scale at that weight.
(For example, 20 foot-pounds) Test with the weight hanging vertical with the
wrench horizontal (parallel) to the floor. Test a few of the common settings you
will actually use. You can hang a cup from the bottom of the weight, and add
ballast to see how much extra it takes to get the click. this should be a
passive weight, not dropped!!
Torque should be rechecked at each pre-flight before sign off (gives you
something to do at night) , and at the 100 hour and/or annual inspection (of any
plane). Over torque can result in a catostrophic failure, under torque can
usually be detected by a good pre-flight visually and physical check of parts for
looseness. 2 threads of the bolts should always be visible past the nut, and
then visual inspection is consistant and easy.
Another source of torque mistakes is too long of a bolt (or lack of washer
spacing as needed) and torquing the nut to the untreaded portion of the bolt,
not compressing the part together, but begining to shear the bolt in two. These
nuts feel tight. If more then 2 threads of the bolt stick through the nut,
measure the bolt (or similar one) and verify that you did not run out of
threads or add washers. My Cessna 170b was rebuilt by someone that forgot
washers.... everywhere!! At our first annual we added dozens of washers and replaced
many bolts. This was missed by the A&P at the pre-buy!!! (engine mount,
wings, horizontal stab, brakepads, etc...) This is a simple but critical item to
check.
Steve
Stephen G. Blank,DDS
Cessna 170b N2715D... soon to start RV-10 (tools arrived!)
Port St Lucie, FL
772-475-5556 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Empcone question, rudder cable fairings |
James attached are some pics of the rudder cable fairings I installed, I
got them from Aircraft Spruce, (10$ If I remember correctly). I
installed them on the inside of the skin, in looking at other pics, I
see where some have installed them on the outside of the skin. I believe
they look better installed on the inside, the only thing I'm not sure
about is if there is going to be enough room to get the cable fitting
threaded through to the rudder attachment, I might have to enlarge the
skin a bit if necessary.
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
James Hein wrote:
>
> Very scary... get all the empcone drilled, then you have to cut your
> baby... sorta like circumsizing your child, eh?
>
> Another question: Has anyone done anything to dress up the hideous
> looking rudder cable exits? Anyone got photos of it being dressed up?
>
> I plan on doing a marathon alumiprep, alodine, priming session this
> weekend to get the parts ready to rivet next week.
>
> -Jim 40384 (Still watching Randy's video once a week... )
>
> Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
>>
>> Scary thought isn't it. I though about that one for a couple of days
>> before the cutting started. Randy
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 1:55 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Empcone question
>>
>>
>> Quick question... on page 10-15, why is it that you cut off the
>> triangular portion of the side skin? Is it to clear something? I
>> would think that both sides would be, you know, symmetrical.
>> There has to be a reason, and since I don't have the main fuselage
>> plans, I can't tell why they want you to do it.
>>
>> -Jim 40384 Tailcone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Once again Dan has made available to everyone a great service.
If I have said it once I've said a hundred times to anyone looking for input regarding
building an RV, spend some serious time on his site, I'd pay him for the
CD but I'm afraid he will update the info and I'll miss something!!
Rick S.
40185
Fuse on da way!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Ya know,
It seems that Van's actually has us in mind when writing the plans. Just
about the time I can't stand doing the mundane task I'm on, I get finished
with it for a while and get to do something else. Then when I come back to
that first task it's not as bad for a while, then I'm to do something else.
I know some of you can multi-task to the point of working on three parts of
the build at once, but, alas, I'm a 1, then 2, and THEN 3, kind of builder.
Maybe I'll get to a more utopian state of builder's awareness later.
Rob
#392
Just finished 10 hours of H.S. prep and prime - time to rivet!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Raysrv8a(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Empcone question |
The triangle is for the baggage door opening.
Make sure you cut off the correct side.
ray
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Dan,
I recently read here on the list that the flat washer under a nut does have
something to do with the torque, at least indirectly. If you look closely
at an AN flat washer one side is sheared off with a sharp edge, the other is
more finished with a radius. The poster pointed out that the rounded edge
should go against the nut and was formed that way to control the amount of
frition surface bearing against the nut and maintain consistent torque
values. Until reading the post and looking at the washers closely I never
realized there was a top and bottom to a flat washer.
I have not seen other references to this other than the list posting but it
seems to make sense.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
>
> Washers have nothing to do with Torque, unless you are talking a crush
> washer and that is for sealing not torque. I FLAT washer is nothing more
> than a spacer to ensure the nut does not bottom out on the unthreaded
> portion of the bolt. I do agree that torque values are different based
> on the distance around the bolt required to distribute the pressure on
> the threads, but FLAT washers have nothing to do with torque.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 3:44 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
>
>
> The book says 20-25, we read that as 20-25. No, it doesn't seem like
> much,
> but that's what the book says. If there was some fancy sort of way of
> adding to the torque value based on what the Nyloc does, then it would
> say
> that.
>
> It also doesn't take an A&P to figure out that torquing from the bolt
> side
> is going to be inaccurate. Sometimes, though, you have to do that
> because
> of space requirements. We noticed that a lot of nutplates required more
> than the specified torque just to get them to tighten all the way in on
> the
> threads. I think we used about 40 in/lbs on the AN3's into nut plates,
> or
> something like that, but there are precious few of those. I thinks the
> torque values have to do with a certain PSI (2500PSI is the number that
> sticks in my head) that the nut is putting on what it's holding. This
> is
> why the larger nuts require larger torque values, because of the
> different
> thread size and the larger area that the pressure is distributed over.
> It
> also has to do with not overstressing the threads on the nut or bolt.
> Notice that the torque values for thin washers are lower (I think half
> the
> torque) because there are fewer threads holding.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
> Hasbrouck
> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 2:43 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Torque
>
>
>
> Regarding having a torque wrench calibrated: ask your local IA/AP where
>
> they take theirs. We have a place here in the Dayton area that does it.
> My
>
> Sears wrench passed with flying colors! How about the question of
> adding
> "running torque" to the final torque value, that is, the torque it takes
>
> just to turn the nyloc nut + final torque value. You'll find that a new
> nut
>
> takes about 10 - 15 inch/pounds just to turn it in some cases. Do you
> add
> that in. One IA said yes the other said no. I agree 20-25 inch/pounds
> ain't much
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
Rob
I look back at that time and wish someone would have convinced me of what
I'm about to tell you. Van's builds one heck of a good kit, and if you
study the plans well, and ream and deburr with a coghill, you can save a ton
of hours. You will still have to do some drilling, but the quality of the
kit is so good that you can do all the prep before you assemble. Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Subject: RV10-List: thought
Ya know,
It seems that Van's actually has us in mind when writing the plans. Just
about the time I can't stand doing the mundane task I'm on, I get finished
with it for a while and get to do something else. Then when I come back to
that first task it's not as bad for a while, then I'm to do something else.
I know some of you can multi-task to the point of working on three parts of
the build at once, but, alas, I'm a 1, then 2, and THEN 3, kind of builder.
Maybe I'll get to a more utopian state of builder's awareness later.
Rob
#392
Just finished 10 hours of H.S. prep and prime - time to rivet!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
Listers
Regarding John's comments regarding "running torque" , yes the running
torque is additive to the specified torque. Just consider a case where the
specified torque is 25 inch/pounds and you find the running torque is 25
inch/pounds. If you apply 25 inch/pounds with your torque wrench, you would
literally have zero torque on the bolt.
Dean Van Winkle Retired Aeronautical Engineer
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Torque
>
> Dan,
>
> I recently read here on the list that the flat washer under a nut does
> have something to do with the torque, at least indirectly. If you look
> closely at an AN flat washer one side is sheared off with a sharp edge,
> the other is more finished with a radius. The poster pointed out that the
> rounded edge should go against the nut and was formed that way to control
> the amount of frition surface bearing against the nut and maintain
> consistent torque values. Until reading the post and looking at the
> washers closely I never realized there was a top and bottom to a flat
> washer.
> I have not seen other references to this other than the list posting but
> it seems to make sense.
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 4:37 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
>
>
>>
>>
>> Washers have nothing to do with Torque, unless you are talking a crush
>> washer and that is for sealing not torque. I FLAT washer is nothing more
>> than a spacer to ensure the nut does not bottom out on the unthreaded
>> portion of the bolt. I do agree that torque values are different based
>> on the distance around the bolt required to distribute the pressure on
>> the threads, but FLAT washers have nothing to do with torque.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 3:44 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
>>
>>
>> The book says 20-25, we read that as 20-25. No, it doesn't seem like
>> much,
>> but that's what the book says. If there was some fancy sort of way of
>> adding to the torque value based on what the Nyloc does, then it would
>> say
>> that.
>>
>> It also doesn't take an A&P to figure out that torquing from the bolt
>> side
>> is going to be inaccurate. Sometimes, though, you have to do that
>> because
>> of space requirements. We noticed that a lot of nutplates required more
>> than the specified torque just to get them to tighten all the way in on
>> the
>> threads. I think we used about 40 in/lbs on the AN3's into nut plates,
>> or
>> something like that, but there are precious few of those. I thinks the
>> torque values have to do with a certain PSI (2500PSI is the number that
>> sticks in my head) that the nut is putting on what it's holding. This
>> is
>> why the larger nuts require larger torque values, because of the
>> different
>> thread size and the larger area that the pressure is distributed over.
>> It
>> also has to do with not overstressing the threads on the nut or bolt.
>> Notice that the torque values for thin washers are lower (I think half
>> the
>> torque) because there are fewer threads holding.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> W: 352-465-4545
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
>> Hasbrouck
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 2:43 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Torque
>>
>>
>>
>> Regarding having a torque wrench calibrated: ask your local IA/AP where
>>
>> they take theirs. We have a place here in the Dayton area that does it.
>> My
>>
>> Sears wrench passed with flying colors! How about the question of
>> adding
>> "running torque" to the final torque value, that is, the torque it takes
>>
>> just to turn the nyloc nut + final torque value. You'll find that a new
>> nut
>>
>> takes about 10 - 15 inch/pounds just to turn it in some cases. Do you
>> add
>> that in. One IA said yes the other said no. I agree 20-25 inch/pounds
>> ain't much
>>
>> John Hasbrouck
>> #40264
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
There is some truth to that, look at the bearing surface of the screw/bolt head.
You will see a small radius between the shaft and the flush bearing surface
of the connector that fits into the radius portion of the flat washer if one is
called for on the bolt/screw head side of the assembly. Most bolts/screws do
not have a washer callout for the head of the fastener, the radius is built into
the washer for the time this is required, not so much for use on the nut side
of the fastener.. Flame away if needed
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry??? |
Toulene and MEK have the same PEL, Toulene has a lower LEL, (lower explosive limit)
than MEK by a few degrees. MEK is easier to find, Toulene is geared more
for industrial applications. Since I'm in Chicago attending a few courses at the
OSHA institute, I'll check tomorrow with the Industrial Hygenist's to let everyone
know how bad both of these products are. I reiterate my previous posts
regarding low grade headaches while building fuel tanks and the hazards of inhalation
and absorbtion by contact (transdermal penetration) of these products.
I can't tell all of you how "bad" these chemicals are without proper protection.
See, now you made me fall back into my day job as a OSHA compliance dude..(that's
what the young construction workers refer to me onsite)
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxl(at)gmail.com> |
IMHO, information straight from the source is best, so I hope this
copy/paste from *AC 43.13-1B** CHG 1, Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and
Practices - Aircraft Inspection *located
here<http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99C827DB9BAAC81B86256B4500596C4E?OpenDocument&Highlightacceptable%20methods>
* *or http://www.checkoway.com/url/?s9ad0faae* *helps with the discussion.
* *-Jim*
*
*7-40. TORQUES. *The importance of correct torque application cannot be
overemphasized. Undertorque can result in unnecessary wear of nuts and
bolts, as well as the parts they secure. Overtorque can cause failure of a
bolt or nut from overstressing the threaded areas. Uneven or additional
loads that are applied to the assembly may result in wear or premature
failure. The following are a few simple, but important procedures, that
should be followed to ensure that correct torque is applied.
*NOTE: Be sure that the torque applied is for the size of the bolt shank not
the wrench size. *
*a. Calibrate the torque wrench *at least once a year, or immediately after
it has been abused or dropped, to ensure continued accuracy.
*b. Be sure the bolt and nut threads are clean and dry, *unless otherwise
specified by the manufacturer.
*c. Run the nut down to near contact *with the washer or bearing surface and
check the friction drag torque required to turn the nut. Whenever possible,
apply the torque to the nut and not the bolt. This will reduce rotation of
the bolt in the hole and reduce wear.
*d. Add the friction drag torque *to the desired torque. This is referred to
as "final torque," which should register on the indicator or setting for a
snap-over type torque wrench.
*e. Apply a smooth even pull *when applying torque pressure. If chattering
or a jerking motion occurs during final torque, back off the nut and
retorque.
*NOTE: Many applications of bolts in aircraft/engines require stretch checks
prior to reuse. This requirement is due primarily to bolt stretching caused
by overtorquing.*
*f. When installing a castle nut*, start alignment with the cotter pin hole
at the minimum recommended torque plus friction drag torque.
*NOTE: Do not exceed the maximum torque plus the friction drag. If the hole
and nut castellation do not align, change washer or nut and try again.
Exceeding
the maximum recommended torque is not recommended.*
*g. When torque is applied *to bolt heads or capscrews, apply the
recommended torque plus friction drag torque.
*h. If special adapters are used *which will change the effective length of
the torque wrench, the final torque indication or wrench setting must be
adjusted accordingly. Determine the torque wrench indication or setting with
adapter installed as shown in figure 7-2.
*i. Table 7-1
<http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/4280/ac43131btable71torquevalues9cn.jpg>
*shows the recommended torque to be used when specific torque is not
supplied by the manufacturer. The table includes standard nut and bolt
combinations, currently used in aviation maintenance. For further
identification of hardware, see chapter 7, section 11.
[Ed. Table 7-1 is located
here<http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/4280/ac43131btable71torquevalues9cn.jpg>,
or long-hand...http://img399.imageshack.us/img399/4280/ac43131btable71torquevalues9cn.jpg]>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxl(at)gmail.com> |
In addition, I think this copy/paste from *AC 43.13-1B** CHG 1, Acceptable
Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection ** *located
here<http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99C827DB9BAAC81B86256B4500596C4E?OpenDocument&Highlightacceptable%20methods>
* *or http://www.checkoway.com/url/?s9ad0faae is apt to the discussion.
-Jim
*
7-64. SELF-LOCKING NUTS. *These nuts are acceptable for use on certificated
aircraft subject to the aircraft manufacturer's recommended practice sheets
or specifications. Two types of self-locking nuts are currently in use, the
all-metal type, and the fiber or nylon type.
...
*e. Metal locknuts *are constructed with either the threads in the locking
insert, out-of round with the load-carrying section, or with a saw-cut
insert with a pinched-in thread in the locking section. The locking action
of the all metal nut depends upon the resiliency of the metal when the
locking section and load carrying section are engaged by screw threads. Metal
locknuts are primarily used in high temperature areas.
*f. Fiber or nylon locknuts *are constructed with an unthreaded fiber or
nylon locking insert held securely in place. The fiber or nylon insert
provides the locking action because it has a smaller diameter than the
nut. Fiber
or nylon self-locking nuts are not installed in areas where temperatures
exceed 250 =B0F. After the nut has been tightened, make sure the bolt or stud
has at least one thread showing past the nut. DO NOT reuse a fiber or nylon
locknut, if the nut cannot meet the minimum prevailing torque values. (See
table 7-2.)<http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/7152/ac43131btable72nuttorquevalues.jpg>
[Ed. Table 7-2 is
here<http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/7152/ac43131btable72nuttorquevalues.jpg>or
long-hand:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/7152/ac43131btable72nuttorquevalues.jpg ]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Sounds like a good statement as to why, but this is not really the case.
The washers are stamped out of a solid sheet, and one side is rounded
because of the stamp as it penetrates the sheet, much like the shear on
Aluminum causes a rounded top and a lip on the underside that we have to
take off. The tooling on a washer stamper is angled on the female side
to cause the cut. It looks like a large steam roller drum, or more
appropriately like a yard aerator and the sheet is underneath it, and it
rolls down the sheet making washers. It is actually pretty cool to
watch, for about a minute or two...Then it is off to the heat treating
ovens to get the proper hardness ETC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Sipp
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Torque
Dan,
I recently read here on the list that the flat washer under a nut does
have
something to do with the torque, at least indirectly. If you look
closely
at an AN flat washer one side is sheared off with a sharp edge, the
other is
more finished with a radius. The poster pointed out that the rounded
edge
should go against the nut and was formed that way to control the amount
of
frition surface bearing against the nut and maintain consistent torque
values. Until reading the post and looking at the washers closely I
never
realized there was a top and bottom to a flat washer.
I have not seen other references to this other than the list posting but
it
seems to make sense.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
>
> Washers have nothing to do with Torque, unless you are talking a crush
> washer and that is for sealing not torque. I FLAT washer is nothing
more
> than a spacer to ensure the nut does not bottom out on the unthreaded
> portion of the bolt. I do agree that torque values are different based
> on the distance around the bolt required to distribute the pressure on
> the threads, but FLAT washers have nothing to do with torque.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 3:44 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
>
>
> The book says 20-25, we read that as 20-25. No, it doesn't seem like
> much,
> but that's what the book says. If there was some fancy sort of way of
> adding to the torque value based on what the Nyloc does, then it would
> say
> that.
>
> It also doesn't take an A&P to figure out that torquing from the bolt
> side
> is going to be inaccurate. Sometimes, though, you have to do that
> because
> of space requirements. We noticed that a lot of nutplates required
more
> than the specified torque just to get them to tighten all the way in
on
> the
> threads. I think we used about 40 in/lbs on the AN3's into nut
plates,
> or
> something like that, but there are precious few of those. I thinks
the
> torque values have to do with a certain PSI (2500PSI is the number
that
> sticks in my head) that the nut is putting on what it's holding. This
> is
> why the larger nuts require larger torque values, because of the
> different
> thread size and the larger area that the pressure is distributed over.
> It
> also has to do with not overstressing the threads on the nut or bolt.
> Notice that the torque values for thin washers are lower (I think half
> the
> torque) because there are fewer threads holding.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
> Hasbrouck
> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 2:43 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Torque
>
>
>
> Regarding having a torque wrench calibrated: ask your local IA/AP
where
>
> they take theirs. We have a place here in the Dayton area that does
it.
> My
>
> Sears wrench passed with flying colors! How about the question of
> adding
> "running torque" to the final torque value, that is, the torque it
takes
>
> just to turn the nyloc nut + final torque value. You'll find that a
new
> nut
>
> takes about 10 - 15 inch/pounds just to turn it in some cases. Do you
> add
> that in. One IA said yes the other said no. I agree 20-25
inch/pounds
> ain't much
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry???Build tanks dry???Build tanks dry??? |
Dunno if this has been posted or not, but you can buy ProSeal in a
semi-liquid form so that you don't have to thin it out. Don't remember
the particulars, but I'll see if I can track 'em down.
Ed Wischmeyer
40090
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Build tanks dry???Build tanks dry??? |
corporate.ppg.com/ppg/refinish/ matthews/documents/74777sp.pdf displays
a Material Safety Data Sheet which includes exposure numbers on
toluene.
I've only audited a single course in industrial hygiene, so don't take
my word as authoritative on any of this, but...
From the MSDS: "These limits are not a relative index of toxicity and
should not be used by anyone without industrial hygiene training."
With that caveat in mind, the permissible exposure level for toluene is
4 times less than for MEK. (The OSHA numbers show a 2:1 ratio, but by
law, the OSHA numbers are frozen using the data known when OSHA was
created umpteen years ago. PELs are the best exposure numbers known at
this time, but...)
So, it is safe to say that both of 'em are damn nasty, so be real
careful.
Also note that just "using a respirator" isn't enough. You need to make
sure you have the correct kind of cartridge -- just like you need the
correct kind of bolt, not just "a" bolt.
Ed "gave up MEK for denatured alcohol as solvent of choice" Wischmeyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi,I'm allready a proud owner of about 50 pounds of aluminum,In the process of
shopping for tools ,some of the builders mention the best deburring tool is a
coghill ,Ican't found in any supplier this tool,any one can explain (it is modism)or
a picture will be perfect.
If the person own one of this can reffer where to aquiere,
Thanks ,Hugo#40456
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
You'll get everyone replying to this.
http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf
Great product. Get the #30 and #40, but make sure you specify that it's for
aluminum!
John Jessen
- starting the HS...finally
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RV10-List: deburring
Hi,I'm allready a proud owner of about 50 pounds of aluminum,In the process
of shopping for tools ,some of the builders mention the best deburring tool
is a coghill ,Ican't found in any supplier this tool,any one can explain (it
is modism)or a picture will be perfect.
If the person own one of this can reffer where to aquiere, Thanks
,Hugo#40456
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I meant to say thin nut, not thin washer. Yes, washers have nothing to do
with torque except possibly that they allow the nut to torque down with less
rotating friction.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
Washers have nothing to do with Torque, unless you are talking a crush
washer and that is for sealing not torque. I FLAT washer is nothing more
than a spacer to ensure the nut does not bottom out on the unthreaded
portion of the bolt. I do agree that torque values are different based
on the distance around the bolt required to distribute the pressure on
the threads, but FLAT washers have nothing to do with torque.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Torque
The book says 20-25, we read that as 20-25. No, it doesn't seem like
much,
but that's what the book says. If there was some fancy sort of way of
adding to the torque value based on what the Nyloc does, then it would
say
that.
It also doesn't take an A&P to figure out that torquing from the bolt
side
is going to be inaccurate. Sometimes, though, you have to do that
because
of space requirements. We noticed that a lot of nutplates required more
than the specified torque just to get them to tighten all the way in on
the
threads. I think we used about 40 in/lbs on the AN3's into nut plates,
or
something like that, but there are precious few of those. I thinks the
torque values have to do with a certain PSI (2500PSI is the number that
sticks in my head) that the nut is putting on what it's holding. This
is
why the larger nuts require larger torque values, because of the
different
thread size and the larger area that the pressure is distributed over.
It
also has to do with not overstressing the threads on the nut or bolt.
Notice that the torque values for thin washers are lower (I think half
the
torque) because there are fewer threads holding.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Torque
Regarding having a torque wrench calibrated: ask your local IA/AP where
they take theirs. We have a place here in the Dayton area that does it.
My
Sears wrench passed with flying colors! How about the question of
adding
"running torque" to the final torque value, that is, the torque it takes
just to turn the nyloc nut + final torque value. You'll find that a new
nut
takes about 10 - 15 inch/pounds just to turn it in some cases. Do you
add
that in. One IA said yes the other said no. I agree 20-25 inch/pounds
ain't much
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Empcone question, rudder cable fairings |
I is VERY easy before you put the sides onto the bottom, a bear if you wait until
after the cone is complete with the HS deck in place. I highly recommend putting
them on before getting too far along with the tailcone final assembly.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Toulene and MEK (Butone) |
I checked with an Industrial Hygenist today and here is the skinny. Hazardous exposure
is 200 parts per million,
(don't confuse this with PEL, and don't flame me, this was from a bonafide OSHA
I.H. telling me this while I attend a course at the OSHA Institute I'm not an
IH, I am Compliance Safety Officer)
which is low over some chemicals but easy to achieve due to the high rate in which
the liquid turns to vapor, MEK is slower turning to vapor than Toulene. Both
require respiratory protection with an organic filter. Here is the big thing,
outside your pretty safe even without a respirator, inside....you need the
respirator and due to the low explosive limit you might not want to use this stuff
in your garage if it has any ignition sources i.e. water heater. The concentration
level for ignition has to be pretty high for an arc, i.e. switch to
set it off. Due to the rapid dispersment rate for the vapors opening the garage
door will suffice, fnas drawing in outside air will eliminate the problem as
well. Transdermal poisoning is still an issue so gloves are mandatory in any
event. Safety "goggles" not glasses are the eye protection of choice to prevent
splashing injury. I have all the "geek" numbers, I had her paraphrase the info
for me so we could all relate, lol.....first thing she wanted to do even before
giving me info was to monitor the air for concentration levels.....I'm glad
I do safety instead of I.H., nothing worse than monitoring an air sampling
pump for four hours. So, don't breath it, don't ignite it, don't touch it, don't
get it in your eyes and finally if at all possible, use these two chemicals
in a well ventilated enviroment.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Toulene and MEK (Butone) |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Great info Rick. Thanks for taking the time to fill us in. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RV10-List: Toulene and MEK (Butone)
I checked with an Industrial Hygenist today and here is the skinny.
Hazardous exposure is 200 parts per million,
(don't confuse this with PEL, and don't flame me, this was from a
bonafide OSHA I.H. telling me this while I attend a course at the OSHA
Institute I'm not an IH, I am Compliance Safety Officer)
which is low over some chemicals but easy to achieve due to the high
rate in which the liquid turns to vapor, MEK is slower turning to vapor
than Toulene. Both require respiratory protection with an organic
filter. Here is the big thing, outside your pretty safe even without a
respirator, inside....you need the respirator and due to the low
explosive limit you might not want to use this stuff in your garage if
it has any ignition sources i.e. water heater. The concentration level
for ignition has to be pretty high for an arc, i.e. switch to set it
off. Due to the rapid dispersment rate for the vapors opening the garage
door will suffice, fnas drawing in outside air will eliminate the
problem as well. Transdermal poisoning is still an issue so gloves are
mandatory in any event. Safety "goggles" not glasses are the eye
protection of choice to prevent splashing injury. I have all the "geek"
numbers, I had her paraphrase the info for me so we could all relate,
lol.....first thin!
g she wanted to do even before giving me info was to monitor the air
for concentration levels.....I'm glad I do safety instead of I.H.,
nothing worse than monitoring an air sampling pump for four hours. So,
don't breath it, don't ignite it, don't touch it, don't get it in your
eyes and finally if at all possible, use these two chemicals in a well
ventilated enviroment.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
fyi RV10 forsale "nearing completion" $215K.
http://www.aircraftx.com/viewListings/detail.php?categ_id=2&list_id=33
Deems Davis
#406 tailcone
http://www.deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Toulene and MEK (Butone) |
Lol....I'll take my usual Crown Royal over MEK any day.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: crosswind landing |
Elevator fit problem
Guys just wondering if we could have a link only to this stuff as some of us
are on dialup....30min to download and then just deleted.At least then we could
have a choice of downloading.
Maybe i am on the wrong list
please no offence just frustrated again...wish we could get broadband
regards all chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | crosswind landing |
Speaking of which, I found out that if you load the big still digital shots,
like the ones I sent to the list and Chris got caught trying to download 3
gazillion pixels of the stuff, anyway, load them into Paint and use the
stretch/shrink command to reduce them by 35% both horizontal and vertical,
and viola, you shrink the size down to 1/3 the original. Don't lose that
much of the detail at all. Works great.
John Jessen
-- too many margaritas to continue the HS tonight............!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Subject: Re: RV10-List: crosswind landing
Guys just wondering if we could have a link only to this stuff as some of us
are on dialup....30min to download and then just deleted.At least then we
could have a choice of downloading.
Maybe i am on the wrong list
please no offence just frustrated again...wish we could get broadband
regards all chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: crosswind landing |
Elevator fit problemSpeaking of X-wind landings, for those of you that have finished
10's, how do they handle in crosswind landings? I haven't found any info
anywhere.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: crosswind landing
Guys just wondering if we could have a link only to this stuff as some of us
are on dialup....30min to download and then just deleted.At least then we could
have a choice of downloading.
Maybe i am on the wrong list
please no offence just frustrated again...wish we could get broadband
regards all chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | crosswind landing |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I haven't had anything higher than maybe 8 kts. It was a non event. I
have about 82 hours total. What a plane. Get busy. It is a BLAST.
Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark & Kelly
Subject: Re: RV10-List: crosswind landing
Speaking of X-wind landings, for those of you that have finished 10's,
how do they handle in crosswind landings? I haven't found any info
anywhere.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris , Susie McGough <mailto:VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: crosswind landing
Guys just wondering if we could have a link only to this
stuff as some of us are on dialup....30min to download and then just
deleted.At least then we could have a choice of downloading.
Maybe i am on the wrong list
please no offence just frustrated again...wish we could
get broadband
regards all chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Any reason that I can't put off trimming the windows to fit the fuselage
until it's time to install them? Instructions have you trim the
windshield and side windows to fit and then they get set aside until
much later.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: crosswind landing |
Elevator fit problem"I haven't had anything higher than maybe 8 kts. It was a
non event. I have about 82 hours total. What a plane. Get busy. It is a BLAST.
Randy"
Wow! It must be REALLY fun if you already have 82 hrs! Thanks for the info.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
You can do them anytime. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
Any reason that I can't put off trimming the windows to fit the fuselage
until it's time to install them? Instructions have you trim the
windshield and side windows to fit and then they get set aside until
much later.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks Tim & Randy - I'll probably defer the window trimming.
Bob
_____
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
You can do them anytime. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
Any reason that I can't put off trimming the windows to fit the fuselage
until it's time to install them? Instructions have you trim the
windshield and side windows to fit and then they get set aside until
much later.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Sims <ams(at)gtf.org> |
Where did you get yours from? It seems the usual suspects (Avery, Brown Tool,
Cleveland, Aircraft Spruce) don't carry them. I'd love to get a #30 and #40
set.
Thanks,
Aaron
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Fuselage/Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
ams(at)gtf.org
On Aug 24, John Jessen wrote:
>
> You'll get everyone replying to this.
>
> http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf
>
> Great product. Get the #30 and #40, but make sure you specify that
> it's for
> aluminum!
>
> John Jessen
> - starting the HS...finally
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 10:16 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: deburring
>
>
> Hi,I'm allready a proud owner of about 50 pounds of aluminum,In the
> process
> of shopping for tools ,some of the builders mention the best
> deburring tool
> is a coghill ,Ican't found in any supplier this tool,any one can
> explain (it
> is modism)or a picture will be perfect.
> If the person own one of this can reffer where to aquiere, Thanks
> ,Hugo#40456
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
Man, those things cost a fortune. $55 each.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Sims
Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring
Where did you get yours from? It seems the usual suspects (Avery, Brown
Tool,
Cleveland, Aircraft Spruce) don't carry them. I'd love to get a #30 and #40
set.
Thanks,
Aaron
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Fuselage/Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
ams(at)gtf.org
On Aug 24, John Jessen wrote:
>
> You'll get everyone replying to this.
>
> http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf
>
> Great product. Get the #30 and #40, but make sure you specify that
> it's for
> aluminum!
>
> John Jessen
> - starting the HS...finally
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 10:16 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: deburring
>
>
> Hi,I'm allready a proud owner of about 50 pounds of aluminum,In the
> process
> of shopping for tools ,some of the builders mention the best
> deburring tool
> is a coghill ,Ican't found in any supplier this tool,any one can
> explain (it
> is modism)or a picture will be perfect.
> If the person own one of this can reffer where to aquiere, Thanks
> ,Hugo#40456
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Aaron,
You need to call them the ol fashioned way...by telephone, no web orders either...go
figure you need to actually have to speak to a person!! ;)
It's really the best way, you need to let them know you need the blades/tension
for aluminum.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
uhhhhh yup....it was my hold out too.....till I saw how nice they work especially
on the bottom flanges of the wing ribs. I expect to get good use of them
in the fuselage as well. Mike Howe bought them up I figure a year ago or more
ago. Wish I had bit the bullet then.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Yeah, this is one of the tools that is a necessity, even on a budget. Save
money elsewhere, not here. Get the Cogsdill
Rob
#392
H.S.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: deburring
uhhhhh yup....it was my hold out too.....till I saw how nice they work
especially on the bottom flanges of the wing ribs. I expect to get good use
of them in the fuselage as well. Mike Howe bought them up I figure a year
ago or more ago. Wish I had bit the bullet then.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
How do you measure a fortune. If it saves me an hour or two, its worth it.
I've only had some used ones and they have paid for themselves many times
over. Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: deburring
Man, those things cost a fortune. $55 each.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Aaron Sims
Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring
Where did you get yours from? It seems the usual suspects (Avery, Brown
Tool,
Cleveland, Aircraft Spruce) don't carry them. I'd love to get a #30 and #40
set.
Thanks,
Aaron
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Fuselage/Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
ams(at)gtf.org
On Aug 24, John Jessen wrote:
>
> You'll get everyone replying to this.
>
> http://www.cogsdill.com/pdf%20files/usdeb_burraway.pdf
>
> Great product. Get the #30 and #40, but make sure you specify that
> it's for
> aluminum!
>
> John Jessen
> - starting the HS...finally
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 10:16 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: deburring
>
>
> Hi,I'm allready a proud owner of about 50 pounds of aluminum,In the
> process
> of shopping for tools ,some of the builders mention the best
> deburring tool
> is a coghill ,Ican't found in any supplier this tool,any one can
> explain (it
> is modism)or a picture will be perfect.
> If the person own one of this can reffer where to aquiere, Thanks
> ,Hugo#40456
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
Anyone else have the T-1004 tank ribs not fit inside the T-1001 tank
skins? I can get the top side cleco'd in, but then the bottom side does
not push down (forward) enough to line up the holes. It's almost like
the radius of the tank skin leading edge is not the same as the ribs.
First time I've had a part not fit up till now.
-Sean #40303 (attempting tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
PUSH MAN PUSH. It will go as long as the holes are in the same place on
all of the ribs. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Ribs?
Anyone else have the T-1004 tank ribs not fit inside the T-1001 tank
skins? I can get the top side cleco'd in, but then the bottom side does
not push down (forward) enough to line up the holes. It's almost like
the radius of the tank skin leading edge is not the same as the ribs.
First time I've had a part not fit up till now.
-Sean #40303 (attempting tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
Tried that, but you can only push so hard on the bottom side of those
ribs because there's a hole cut out for the vent tube. The rib will
just bend at that point before the holes get lined up.
-Sean
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> PUSH MAN PUSH. It will go as long as the holes are in the same place on
> all of the ribs. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 2:48 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tank Ribs?
>
>
> Anyone else have the T-1004 tank ribs not fit inside the T-1001 tank
> skins? I can get the top side cleco'd in, but then the bottom side does
>
> not push down (forward) enough to line up the holes. It's almost like
> the radius of the tank skin leading edge is not the same as the ribs.
>
> First time I've had a part not fit up till now.
>
> -Sean #40303 (attempting tanks)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
If you're trying to do it in the jig, take it out until it's cleco'd.
Start clecoing at the nose. Do about 3 rivets both top and bottom on
all of the ribs. Then go back and do the rest of the holes moving
toward the baffle. It'll go much easier.
PJ #40032
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Anyone else have the T-1004 tank ribs not fit inside the T-1001 tank
> skins? I can get the top side cleco'd in, but then the bottom side
> does not push down (forward) enough to line up the holes. It's almost
> like the radius of the tank skin leading edge is not the same as the
> ribs.
>
> First time I've had a part not fit up till now.
>
> -Sean #40303 (attempting tanks)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Sean,
I had to put a few pretty heavy flutes in the rib flanges towards the nose of the
rib. Take a straight edge and check the alignment of the holes, I had to flute
mine pretty deep to get them to line up. Once I did that they fit in with
just enough pressure to get them to stay in place with out deforming the skins.
Don't forget a bit of extra proseal on the flutes.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
Ok, that helped. Also, What was the problem is that the tabs at the
very nose of the ribs (one's with no holes) were not bent at the right
point. Meaning they stuck up higher than the other flanges. So, I
re-bent them. This was keeping me from getting them pushed all the way
down (forward) in the leading edge.
Thanks all...
-Sean
PJ Seipel wrote:
>
> If you're trying to do it in the jig, take it out until it's cleco'd.
> Start clecoing at the nose. Do about 3 rivets both top and bottom on
> all of the ribs. Then go back and do the rest of the holes moving
> toward the baffle. It'll go much easier.
>
> PJ #40032
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>>
>> Anyone else have the T-1004 tank ribs not fit inside the T-1001 tank
>> skins? I can get the top side cleco'd in, but then the bottom side
>> does not push down (forward) enough to line up the holes. It's
>> almost like the radius of the tank skin leading edge is not the same
>> as the ribs.
>>
>> First time I've had a part not fit up till now.
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (attempting tanks)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Noel,
Green/Blue/Black .... 56 ohms
Tim
Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
> Any one have a set of the led nav lts? I need to know the resistor
> rating. Lost mine (ouch). Colors one the resistor will work just fine.
>
>
>
> Thank you
>
>
>
> Noel
>
> 406-538-6574
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
actually, black- blue- green- none
Remember...
bad-boys-rape-our-young-girls- but-veronica-goes-willing, get- some- now.
black-brown-red-orange-yellow-green-blue-grey-white, gold -silver-none
or just go here: http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Ribs and proseal |
How did you guys apply the proseal? Did you have to use a sealant gun? Like
Semco? Would like to hear opinions and experiences.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tank Ribs?
Sean,
I had to put a few pretty heavy flutes in the rib flanges towards the nose
of the rib. Take a straight edge and check the alignment of the holes, I had
to flute mine pretty deep to get them to line up. Once I did that they fit
in with just enough pressure to get them to stay in place with out deforming
the skins. Don't forget a bit of extra proseal on the flutes.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Ribs and proseal |
I used a wooden stick for the ribs and a plastic bag with the corner cut off
for the rear baffle. Just used the bag like I was a cake decorator.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank Ribs and proseal
How did you guys apply the proseal? Did you have to use a sealant gun? Like
Semco? Would like to hear opinions and experiences.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tank Ribs?
Sean,
I had to put a few pretty heavy flutes in the rib flanges towards the nose
of the rib. Take a straight edge and check the alignment of the holes, I had
to flute mine pretty deep to get them to line up. Once I did that they fit
in with just enough pressure to get them to stay in place with out deforming
the skins. Don't forget a bit of extra proseal on the flutes.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Ribs and proseal |
I ordered the follow parts from Aircraft Spruce for my Semco Sealant Gun
(best thing since sliced bread).
09-00758 PLUNGER FOR PRO SEAL CARTRIDGE $.67
09-00759 PRO SEAL CARTRIDGE ONLY 2-1/2 $.66
09-00760 PRO SEAL CARTRIDGE ONLY 6 OZ $.58
EA4180 NOZZLE FOR PRO-SEAL KITS $1.20
The small cartridges will allow me to mix up small batches, place in
cartridge, seal away. After the ribs, etc. are on, I'll be able to do a
nice bead on the edges and rivets and smear in place.
-Sean #40303
Rene wrote:
>
> I used a wooden stick for the ribs and a plastic bag with the corner cut off
> for the rear baffle. Just used the bag like I was a cake decorator.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mani Ravee
> Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 7:04 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank Ribs and proseal
>
>
> How did you guys apply the proseal? Did you have to use a sealant gun? Like
> Semco? Would like to hear opinions and experiences.
>
> Mani Ravee, MD
> Indianapolis, KUMP
> #40339. N528AR
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
> Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 5:09 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tank Ribs?
>
>
> Sean,
>
> I had to put a few pretty heavy flutes in the rib flanges towards the nose
> of the rib. Take a straight edge and check the alignment of the holes, I had
> to flute mine pretty deep to get them to line up. Once I did that they fit
> in with just enough pressure to get them to stay in place with out deforming
> the skins. Don't forget a bit of extra proseal on the flutes.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Ribs and proseal |
Mani,
I used a combination. I did a few steps each night like fitting the parts to the
end ribs, fuel filler etc. I then did two or three ribs a night until I got
to the rear baffle. I used 6 tubes of sealant using the semco gun....this is a
sweet tool and very clean to use but not a cost effective way to do things in
small steps.
I used the tubes to apply the sealant for the stiffeners and rear baffle as well
to go over the internal tank joints after all the ribs had been installed and
just prior to sealing and riveting the rear baffle.
I used the Van's can for everything else. I mixed one to two oz's at a time using
a postal scale and paper mixing bowls. Get big popsicle sticks and little
ones at Micheals craft stores. Make sure you order the "B-2" tubes of sealant,
it has a 2 hour work time but in reality it was more like 45 minutes. For mixing
the tubes I used ATS mixing adapter on a 1/2" drill....worked great to mix
up the tubes.
I figure I came out the same as most builders using 1-1/2 cans. I only bought one
can and six tubes and had enough to do my aileron and flap trailing edges with
about three oz's left over. If money was no object I would do tubes 100 percent
but like I said, the amount I was using per session was only two oz's, leaving
4 oz's to go to waste in the tubes had I used them for everything. The
semco gun is really trick and very easy to control the flow and is CLEAN to work
with. Depends on what you want to shell out for sealing the tanks.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rsipp(at)earthlink.net |
I had similar problems Sean, I think I just kept trying different sequences and
like Randy said it takes some pressure to make the skin follow the curve. Came
out fine in the end.
Dick Sipp
40065
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Ribs?
Anyone else have the T-1004 tank ribs not fit inside the T-1001 tank
skins? I can get the top side cleco'd in, but then the bottom side does
not push down (forward) enough to line up the holes. It's almost like
the radius of the tank skin leading edge is not the same as the ribs.
First time I've had a part not fit up till now.
-Sean #40303 (attempting tanks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
I remenber that Bad boys rape our young girls but vilot gives willingly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
Rick,
25 years, Yep I have been there and done that too!
Surface Mount is the way to go, pin thru hole is history!
They just mark the numbers nowadays!
If any one needs to use a surface mount resistor its a 560
First two digits are the value, 3rd digit is the exponent for
the multiplier (56 x 10
0).
Jim C
#40192
N312F
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
The trick to the tank ribs is to leave the skin out of the or on top of the
cradles and cleco each rib into place starting with the nose clecos. Put a
rib in, cleco the nose two clecoes top and bottom, put next rib in and
repeat. Then go back and as you cleco the sides you will draw the skin onto
the ribs. The tank will eventually slide into the cradle. You can the
squeeze the sides a bit to finish the job. CLECO EVERY HOLE! PJ's advice
was similar to this. For the proseal I used some disposable plastic
syringes to make a nice bead around the ribs and cover the rivet heads.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
They don't tell you in the plans, so I just want to double check myself...
The vent clip that gets attached to the fuel cap flange needs the hole
to be 7/16 for the snap bushing?
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Van's RV-10 Wiring kit |
Vans now has a wiring kit out for the 10 (details below). Has anyone
purchased it or given it serious consideration? Is this a reasonable route
to go or do you believe it better to go thru Stein or another source?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
ES WH 10 KIT I(O)-540 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 WH-10 HARNESS I(O)-540
1.000 WH-F1 INSTR BKR-TB #16
1.000 WH-J1 ALT BKR-ALT #8
1.000 WH-J2 ALT SW-V REG-ALT #18
1.000 WH-J3 IG SW LEFT-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J4 IG SW R-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J5 IG SW-TB GND
1.000 WH-K1 IG SW-START RELAY #18
1.000 WH-K2 IG SW-INST TB #18
1.000 WH-L1 NAV LT SW-PNL LT #18
1.000 WH-L2 LAND/TAXI SW-R TB #14
1.000 WH-L3-1 STROBE SWITCH >POWER
1.000 WH-L4 NAV LT SW-R TB #18
1.000 WH-L5 LAND/TAXI SW-L TB #14
1.000 WH-L7 NAV SW-L TB #18
1.000 WH-L8 NAV.LT TO TAIL LIGHT
1.000 WH-P12 RADIO SW-TB #16
1.000 WH-P2 MASTER SW-GND #18
1.000 WH-P3 MASTER SW-M RELAY #18
1.000 WH-P8 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P9 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P28 BUSS BAR JUMPER
1.000 WH-Q1 PUMP SW-PUMP #18
40.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
1.000 WH-P7 FLAP CIRCUIT WIRE
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SK HARNESS SUPPLEMENT
20.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-18 #18 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-16 #16 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-14 #14 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-22 22 GA ELECT WIRE $/FT
12.000 ES 36152 TERMINAL #20 WR #6 TR
35.000 ES 31890 #18 TERMINAL
5.000 ES 36154 TERMINAL #20WR #10STD
20.000 ES 320565 #14-16 TERMINAL
1.000 ES 324082 #8 RING/ 1/4 STUD
8.000 ES 320559 #18 SPLICE
7.000 ES 320562 #14-16 SPLICE
1.000 ES HST-3/8X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-3/16X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-1/4X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
2.000 ES BUSS BAR-063X.5 1/16X1/2X12 COPPER BR
25.000 DUCT NT5/8 NYLON 5/8 TUBE ($/FT)
4.000 MS25171-1S NIPPLE (BOOT) SMALL
7.000 MS25171-3S NIPPLE (BOOT) LARGE
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB437-4 SNAP-IN 1/4ID 7/16 OD
1.000 TAPE UHMW 3"X12" INSULATING TAPE
1.000 ES 324044 #8L TERMINAL
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SW 10 BREAKER SET RV-10A
2.000 ES PBB-5 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
3.000 ES PBB-10 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-20 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-5A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-10A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES CB 1648-009-060 60 AMP CIRCUIT BRKER
1.000 ES 2GK54-73 SWITCH DPST SWITCH (ON/OFF)
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 DOC ES HARNESS-10 WIRING DWGS AND TEXT
BAG 970 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 AN3-4A BOLT
3.000 AN3-3A BOLT
1.000 AN365-428 NUT,STOP 1/4-28
12.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
2.000 AN4-4A BOLT
1.000 AN4-5A BOLT
1.000 AN509-10R12 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
1.000 AN509-8R8 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
10.000 AN515-8R8 SCREW,ROUND HD
2.000 AN526C832R8 SCREW,TRUSS HD SS
2.000 AN5-4A BOLT
BAG 971 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
4.000 AN960-10L WASHER, THIN
4.000 AN960-416 WASHER 1/4
2.000 AN960-516L WASHER (032) 5/16
12.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
2.000 K1000-08 PLATENUT 8-32
4.000 MS21042-3 1032 ALL METAL L/NUT
2.000 MS21045-5 HW PINCH NUT 5/16
2.000 MS21919DG12 CUSHIONED CLAMP
7.000 MS21919DG2 1/8" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919DG4 1/4" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919WDG6 3/8" CUSHION CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG8 CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG10 CUSHIONED CLAMP
3.000 MS21919WDG3 3/16" CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
1.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
BAG 972 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
6.000 BUSHING SB375-3 SNAP-IN 3/16ID 3/8 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB500-6 SNAP-IN 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
2.000 BUSHING SB625-8 SNAP-IN 1/2ID 5/8 OD
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
12.000 RIVET LP4-3 POP RIVET
2.000 BUSH AL-058X5/16X1 ALUMINUM BUSHING -8
2.000 C-606 LINK
2.000 F-1016H GUIDE BRACKET
1.000 BAG 995 WIRING KIT HW
20.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
5.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
7.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
17.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
1.000 AN5-5A BOLT
1.000 AN960-516 WASHER 5/16
1.000 AN365-524 NUT,STOP 5/16-24
4.000 MS35333-39 3/16 INT TOOTH L/W
1.000 BAG 997 SPARE WIRE LABELS
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL F1
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5J SHRINK LABEL J1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J2
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L1
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L3
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L4
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L6
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L7
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P3
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P7
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P8
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P9
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P12
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL Q1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X.25
1.000 F-10110-L WIRE COVER
1.000 F-10111 ANGLE BRACKETS
1.000 WH-800A TERMINAL BLOCK BASE
1.000 WH-800B TERMINAL BLOCK TOP
1.000 WH-801 RT.CONSOLE TEMPLATE
1.000 WH-P13 BUSS BAR JUMPER #8
1.000 WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25"
2.000 WH-P25 #2 AWG BRAIDED 7.25"
1.000 WH-P27 #2 AWG ELEC.CABLE
1.000 WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75"
1.000 WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11"
1.000 ES 24021 STARTER SOLENOID 2OUT
1.000 ES 24115 MASTER RELAY
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Vent Clip |
Your right they don't, and I just drilled mine to 7/16" today -the long
side.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
wings/tanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Vent Clip
>
> They don't tell you in the plans, so I just want to double check myself...
>
> The vent clip that gets attached to the fuel cap flange needs the hole to
> be 7/16 for the snap bushing?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Van's RV-10 Wiring kit |
Hi John,
Just to let you know, that Van's typical wiring kit is not a bad starting
point. I used one of them on my 1st RV-6. If you plan on wiring up your
plane as a fairly standard VFR plane, then it's actually a fairly good
option. That being said, if you plan on a decently customized panel of
sorts or IFR, heated pitot, AOA, or "other stuff", then you'll be well ahead
of the game just to buy the parts individually. Even with our "kits", they
are hardly a one size fits all and are frequently changed to meet the
customers needs (for example, many customers already have their own tools,
choose to use circuit breakers instead of fuses, want colored wire instead
of white, etc..).
There are many places to buy the "stuff" from, and some of the stuff is
cheaper at Van's, some cheaper with us, some cheaper with Wicks, Spruce,
etc... If you're kind of thinking of doing the plane a certain way above
and beyond the basics, then it would be wise to make a "list" of things
you're thinking about and get out the ole wire tables and sketch out what
you might need. I can say that if you put any complex stuff in your plane
(and even with the kit), then 55' of AWG18, 25' of AWG22, and 55' of AWG16
won't come close to what you will actually use. You'll also want/need to
buy some AWG20, probably a couple hundred feet of AWG22, etc.. If you want
colors (such as Red for power, Black for Ground, etc..), then you end up
buying a whole bunch of wire anyway.
So, in the end my advice isn't much help at all. From what I've seen after
thousands of customers, about 50% of homebuilders at least start with the
Van's wiring harness (then modify/add to it) and 50% roll their own from the
get go. It kind of depends on your comfort level with wire, your plans for
the goodies in the plane, and of course your wallet!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
Subject: RV10-List: Van's RV-10 Wiring kit
Vans now has a wiring kit out for the 10 (details below). Has anyone
purchased it or given it serious consideration? Is this a reasonable route
to go or do you believe it better to go thru Stein or another source?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
ES WH 10 KIT I(O)-540 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 WH-10 HARNESS I(O)-540
1.000 WH-F1 INSTR BKR-TB #16
1.000 WH-J1 ALT BKR-ALT #8
1.000 WH-J2 ALT SW-V REG-ALT #18
1.000 WH-J3 IG SW LEFT-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J4 IG SW R-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J5 IG SW-TB GND
1.000 WH-K1 IG SW-START RELAY #18
1.000 WH-K2 IG SW-INST TB #18
1.000 WH-L1 NAV LT SW-PNL LT #18
1.000 WH-L2 LAND/TAXI SW-R TB #14
1.000 WH-L3-1 STROBE SWITCH >POWER
1.000 WH-L4 NAV LT SW-R TB #18
1.000 WH-L5 LAND/TAXI SW-L TB #14
1.000 WH-L7 NAV SW-L TB #18
1.000 WH-L8 NAV.LT TO TAIL LIGHT
1.000 WH-P12 RADIO SW-TB #16
1.000 WH-P2 MASTER SW-GND #18
1.000 WH-P3 MASTER SW-M RELAY #18
1.000 WH-P8 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P9 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P28 BUSS BAR JUMPER
1.000 WH-Q1 PUMP SW-PUMP #18
40.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
1.000 WH-P7 FLAP CIRCUIT WIRE
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SK HARNESS SUPPLEMENT
20.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-18 #18 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-16 #16 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-14 #14 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-22 22 GA ELECT WIRE $/FT
12.000 ES 36152 TERMINAL #20 WR #6 TR
35.000 ES 31890 #18 TERMINAL
5.000 ES 36154 TERMINAL #20WR #10STD
20.000 ES 320565 #14-16 TERMINAL
1.000 ES 324082 #8 RING/ 1/4 STUD
8.000 ES 320559 #18 SPLICE
7.000 ES 320562 #14-16 SPLICE
1.000 ES HST-3/8X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-3/16X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-1/4X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
2.000 ES BUSS BAR-063X.5 1/16X1/2X12 COPPER BR
25.000 DUCT NT5/8 NYLON 5/8 TUBE ($/FT)
4.000 MS25171-1S NIPPLE (BOOT) SMALL
7.000 MS25171-3S NIPPLE (BOOT) LARGE
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB437-4 SNAP-IN 1/4ID 7/16 OD
1.000 TAPE UHMW 3"X12" INSULATING TAPE
1.000 ES 324044 #8L TERMINAL
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SW 10 BREAKER SET RV-10A
2.000 ES PBB-5 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
3.000 ES PBB-10 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-20 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-5A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-10A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES CB 1648-009-060 60 AMP CIRCUIT BRKER
1.000 ES 2GK54-73 SWITCH DPST SWITCH (ON/OFF)
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 DOC ES HARNESS-10 WIRING DWGS AND TEXT
BAG 970 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 AN3-4A BOLT
3.000 AN3-3A BOLT
1.000 AN365-428 NUT,STOP 1/4-28
12.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
2.000 AN4-4A BOLT
1.000 AN4-5A BOLT
1.000 AN509-10R12 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
1.000 AN509-8R8 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
10.000 AN515-8R8 SCREW,ROUND HD
2.000 AN526C832R8 SCREW,TRUSS HD SS
2.000 AN5-4A BOLT
BAG 971 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
4.000 AN960-10L WASHER, THIN
4.000 AN960-416 WASHER 1/4
2.000 AN960-516L WASHER (032) 5/16
12.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
2.000 K1000-08 PLATENUT 8-32
4.000 MS21042-3 1032 ALL METAL L/NUT
2.000 MS21045-5 HW PINCH NUT 5/16
2.000 MS21919DG12 CUSHIONED CLAMP
7.000 MS21919DG2 1/8" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919DG4 1/4" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919WDG6 3/8" CUSHION CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG8 CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG10 CUSHIONED CLAMP
3.000 MS21919WDG3 3/16" CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
1.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
BAG 972 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
6.000 BUSHING SB375-3 SNAP-IN 3/16ID 3/8 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB500-6 SNAP-IN 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
2.000 BUSHING SB625-8 SNAP-IN 1/2ID 5/8 OD
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
12.000 RIVET LP4-3 POP RIVET
2.000 BUSH AL-058X5/16X1 ALUMINUM BUSHING -8
2.000 C-606 LINK
2.000 F-1016H GUIDE BRACKET
1.000 BAG 995 WIRING KIT HW
20.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
5.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
7.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
17.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
1.000 AN5-5A BOLT
1.000 AN960-516 WASHER 5/16
1.000 AN365-524 NUT,STOP 5/16-24
4.000 MS35333-39 3/16 INT TOOTH L/W
1.000 BAG 997 SPARE WIRE LABELS
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL F1
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5J SHRINK LABEL J1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J2
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L1
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L3
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L4
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L6
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L7
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P3
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P7
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P8
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P9
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P12
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL Q1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X.25
1.000 F-10110-L WIRE COVER
1.000 F-10111 ANGLE BRACKETS
1.000 WH-800A TERMINAL BLOCK BASE
1.000 WH-800B TERMINAL BLOCK TOP
1.000 WH-801 RT.CONSOLE TEMPLATE
1.000 WH-P13 BUSS BAR JUMPER #8
1.000 WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25"
2.000 WH-P25 #2 AWG BRAIDED 7.25"
1.000 WH-P27 #2 AWG ELEC.CABLE
1.000 WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75"
1.000 WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11"
1.000 ES 24021 STARTER SOLENOID 2OUT
1.000 ES 24115 MASTER RELAY
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Van's wiring kit |
Steins approach has merit; however I would add that if your system is going to
be complex you should forget the switches and use the w31 toggle breakers and
put every appliance on its own pullable breaker or toggle breaker . also standardize
on a set of wire sizes and buy in quantity. You can by the RG400 and 002
starter cable specifically by the foot but I have standardize by buying 50 ft
size 8 and 500 ft spools of size 14 and 20. I also have purchased several hundred
feet of shielded size 22 in 2,3,and 4 wire bundles. Also check continuity
as you install and consider including several additional wires in the bundle
as spares. This will save lots of grief later when the newest electronic widget
needs to be installed. When you install the wiring consider how you will get
to it to fix or replace. My motto on my first airplane was (after maintaining
a Cessna for 29 years) FIX IT SO THAT IT WILL NEVER BREAK OR MAKE THE ACCESS
EASY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see how
yours are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I would consider using a whip antenna for both coms. Bobs Com antenna
works for the range is much less that the whip.
I regularly receive 60 to 70 miles on the whip at best 15 miles on the
wing tip antenna. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see
how yours are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and
SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings.....10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's RV-10 Wiring kit |
Hi,
I have no experience with the Rv10 wiring kit but bought a wiring kit for my RV7.
It is perfect for getting the essentials wired. You are however stuck with
positions on the panel for switches,etc where Van's planned them, otherwise you
might find a few of the wires short. This is generally no problem if you stick
with a "standard" lay out of your panel.
marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 11:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Van's RV-10 Wiring kit
Vans now has a wiring kit out for the 10 (details below). Has anyone purchased
it or given it serious consideration? Is this a reasonable route to go or do
you believe it better to go thru Stein or another source?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
ES WH 10 KIT I(O)-540 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 WH-10 HARNESS I(O)-540
1.000 WH-F1 INSTR BKR-TB #16
1.000 WH-J1 ALT BKR-ALT #8
1.000 WH-J2 ALT SW-V REG-ALT #18
1.000 WH-J3 IG SW LEFT-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J4 IG SW R-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J5 IG SW-TB GND
1.000 WH-K1 IG SW-START RELAY #18
1.000 WH-K2 IG SW-INST TB #18
1.000 WH-L1 NAV LT SW-PNL LT #18
1.000 WH-L2 LAND/TAXI SW-R TB #14
1.000 WH-L3-1 STROBE SWITCH >POWER
1.000 WH-L4 NAV LT SW-R TB #18
1.000 WH-L5 LAND/TAXI SW-L TB #14
1.000 WH-L7 NAV SW-L TB #18
1.000 WH-L8 NAV.LT TO TAIL LIGHT
1.000 WH-P12 RADIO SW-TB #16
1.000 WH-P2 MASTER SW-GND #18
1.000 WH-P3 MASTER SW-M RELAY #18
1.000 WH-P8 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P9 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P28 BUSS BAR JUMPER
1.000 WH-Q1 PUMP SW-PUMP #18
40.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
1.000 WH-P7 FLAP CIRCUIT WIRE
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SK HARNESS SUPPLEMENT
20.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-18 #18 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-16 #16 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-14 #14 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-22 22 GA ELECT WIRE $/FT
12.000 ES 36152 TERMINAL #20 WR #6 TR
35.000 ES 31890 #18 TERMINAL
5.000 ES 36154 TERMINAL #20WR #10STD
20.000 ES 320565 #14-16 TERMINAL
1.000 ES 324082 #8 RING/ 1/4 STUD
8.000 ES 320559 #18 SPLICE
7.000 ES 320562 #14-16 SPLICE
1.000 ES HST-3/8X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-3/16X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-1/4X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
2.000 ES BUSS BAR-063X.5 1/16X1/2X12 COPPER BR
25.000 DUCT NT5/8 NYLON 5/8 TUBE ($/FT)
4.000 MS25171-1S NIPPLE (BOOT) SMALL
7.000 MS25171-3S NIPPLE (BOOT) LARGE
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB437-4 SNAP-IN 1/4ID 7/16 OD
1.000 TAPE UHMW 3"X12" INSULATING TAPE
1.000 ES 324044 #8L TERMINAL
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SW 10 BREAKER SET RV-10A
2.000 ES PBB-5 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
3.000 ES PBB-10 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-20 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-5A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-10A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES CB 1648-009-060 60 AMP CIRCUIT BRKER
1.000 ES 2GK54-73 SWITCH DPST SWITCH (ON/OFF)
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 DOC ES HARNESS-10 WIRING DWGS AND TEXT
BAG 970 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 AN3-4A BOLT
3.000 AN3-3A BOLT
1.000 AN365-428 NUT,STOP 1/4-28
12.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
2.000 AN4-4A BOLT
1.000 AN4-5A BOLT
1.000 AN509-10R12 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
1.000 AN509-8R8 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
10.000 AN515-8R8 SCREW,ROUND HD
2.000 AN526C832R8 SCREW,TRUSS HD SS
2.000 AN5-4A BOLT
BAG 971 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
4.000 AN960-10L WASHER, THIN
4.000 AN960-416 WASHER 1/4
2.000 AN960-516L WASHER (032) 5/16
12.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
2.000 K1000-08 PLATENUT 8-32
4.000 MS21042-3 1032 ALL METAL L/NUT
2.000 MS21045-5 HW PINCH NUT 5/16
2.000 MS21919DG12 CUSHIONED CLAMP
7.000 MS21919DG2 1/8" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919DG4 1/4" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919WDG6 3/8" CUSHION CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG8 CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG10 CUSHIONED CLAMP
3.000 MS21919WDG3 3/16" CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
1.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
BAG 972 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
6.000 BUSHING SB375-3 SNAP-IN 3/16ID 3/8 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB500-6 SNAP-IN 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
2.000 BUSHING SB625-8 SNAP-IN 1/2ID 5/8 OD
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
12.000 RIVET LP4-3 POP RIVET
2.000 BUSH AL-058X5/16X1 ALUMINUM BUSHING -8
2.000 C-606 LINK
2.000 F-1016H GUIDE BRACKET
1.000 BAG 995 WIRING KIT HW
20.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
5.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
7.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
17.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
1.000 AN5-5A BOLT
1.000 AN960-516 WASHER 5/16
1.000 AN365-524 NUT,STOP 5/16-24
4.000 MS35333-39 3/16 INT TOOTH L/W
1.000 BAG 997 SPARE WIRE LABELS
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL F1
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5J SHRINK LABEL J1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J2
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L1
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L3
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L4
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L6
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L7
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P3
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P7
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P8
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P9
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P12
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL Q1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X.25
1.000 F-10110-L WIRE COVER
1.000 F-10111 ANGLE BRACKETS
1.000 WH-800A TERMINAL BLOCK BASE
1.000 WH-800B TERMINAL BLOCK TOP
1.000 WH-801 RT.CONSOLE TEMPLATE
1.000 WH-P13 BUSS BAR JUMPER #8
1.000 WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25"
2.000 WH-P25 #2 AWG BRAIDED 7.25"
1.000 WH-P27 #2 AWG ELEC.CABLE
1.000 WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75"
1.000 WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11"
1.000 ES 24021 STARTER SOLENOID 2OUT
1.000 ES 24115 MASTER RELAY
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's RV-10 Wiring kit |
John,
I would think that for most -10 builders, it will be hard to stick
with a "standard" wiring kit. They're including a lot of stuff in
the area of switches and things that you may not want, depending
on how you wire your panel and what components you go with.
The wiring, in my mind, is a pretty custom thing for most builders,
and doesn't seem to go well with making a "kit", unless maybe you
had them trim the kit down to some bare essentials that you know
you'll do as stock.
A comforting thing is that you have lots of time to think this
through, as you can get all the way through the engine install
before you have to worry about pulling any wires (just leave
your bottom wing skins off until painting time).
How far are you on the tailcone? It says "finishing tail", but
is that including the tailcone? If so, you're moving along
well and congrats!
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: spinner
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com wrote:
> Vans now has a wiring kit out for the 10 (details below). Has anyone
> purchased it or given it serious consideration? Is this a reasonable
> route to go or do you believe it better to go thru Stein or another source?
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Finishing tail
>
>
>
> *ES WH 10 KIT I(O)-540 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
> */1.000 WH-10 HARNESS I(O)-540/
> 1.000 WH-F1 INSTR BKR-TB #16
> 1.000 WH-J1 ALT BKR-ALT #8
> 1.000 WH-J2 ALT SW-V REG-ALT #18
> 1.000 WH-J3 IG SW LEFT-PLEAD #18S
> 1.000 WH-J4 IG SW R-PLEAD #18S
> 1.000 WH-J5 IG SW-TB GND
> 1.000 WH-K1 IG SW-START RELAY #18
> 1.000 WH-K2 IG SW-INST TB #18
> 1.000 WH-L1 NAV LT SW-PNL LT #18
> 1.000 WH-L2 LAND/TAXI SW-R TB #14
> 1.000 WH-L3-1 STROBE SWITCH >POWER
> 1.000 WH-L4 NAV LT SW-R TB #18
> 1.000 WH-L5 LAND/TAXI SW-L TB #14
> 1.000 WH-L7 NAV SW-L TB #18
> 1.000 WH-L8 NAV.LT TO TAIL LIGHT
> 1.000 WH-P12 RADIO SW-TB #16
> 1.000 WH-P2 MASTER SW-GND #18
> 1.000 WH-P3 MASTER SW-M RELAY #18
> 1.000 WH-P8 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
> 1.000 WH-P9 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
> 1.000 WH-P28 BUSS BAR JUMPER
> 1.000 WH-Q1 PUMP SW-PUMP #18
> 40.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
> 1.000 WH-P7 FLAP CIRCUIT WIRE
> 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
>
> /1.000 ES WH-SK HARNESS SUPPLEMENT/
> 20.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
> 55.000 WIRE M22759/16-18 #18 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
> 55.000 WIRE M22759/16-16 #16 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
> 25.000 WIRE M22759/16-14 #14 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
> 25.000 WIRE M22759/16-22 22 GA ELECT WIRE $/FT
> 12.000 ES 36152 TERMINAL #20 WR #6 TR
> 35.000 ES 31890 #18 TERMINAL
> 5.000 ES 36154 TERMINAL #20WR #10STD
> 20.000 ES 320565 #14-16 TERMINAL
> 1.000 ES 324082 #8 RING/ 1/4 STUD
> 8.000 ES 320559 #18 SPLICE
> 7.000 ES 320562 #14-16 SPLICE
> 1.000 ES HST-3/8X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
> 1.000 ES HST-3/16X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
> 1.000 ES HST-1/4X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
> 2.000 ES BUSS BAR-063X.5 1/16X1/2X12 COPPER BR
> 25.000 DUCT NT5/8 NYLON 5/8 TUBE ($/FT)
> 4.000 MS25171-1S NIPPLE (BOOT) SMALL
> 7.000 MS25171-3S NIPPLE (BOOT) LARGE
> 6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
> 4.000 BUSHING SB437-4 SNAP-IN 1/4ID 7/16 OD
> 1.000 TAPE UHMW 3"X12" INSULATING TAPE
> 1.000 ES 324044 #8L TERMINAL
> 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
>
> /1.000 ES WH-SW 10 BREAKER SET RV-10A/
> 2.000 ES PBB-5 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
> 3.000 ES PBB-10 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
> 1.000 ES PBB-20 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
> 1.000 ES PBB-5A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
> 1.000 ES PBB-10A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
> 1.000 ES CB 1648-009-060 60 AMP CIRCUIT BRKER
> 1.000 ES 2GK54-73 SWITCH DPST SWITCH (ON/OFF)
> 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
>
> 1.000 DOC ES HARNESS-10 WIRING DWGS AND TEXT
>
> BAG 970 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
> 1.000 AN3-4A BOLT
> 3.000 AN3-3A BOLT
> 1.000 AN365-428 NUT,STOP 1/4-28
> 12.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
> 2.000 AN4-4A BOLT
> 1.000 AN4-5A BOLT
> 1.000 AN509-10R12 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
> 1.000 AN509-8R8 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
> 10.000 AN515-8R8 SCREW,ROUND HD
> 2.000 AN526C832R8 SCREW,TRUSS HD SS
August 16, 2005 - August 28, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ap