RV10-Archive.digest.vol-aq
August 28, 2005 - September 19, 2005
> 2.000 AN5-4A BOLT
>
> BAG 971 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
> 4.000 AN960-10L WASHER, THIN
> 4.000 AN960-416 WASHER 1/4
> 2.000 AN960-516L WASHER (032) 5/16
> 12.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
> 2.000 K1000-08 PLATENUT 8-32
> 4.000 MS21042-3 1032 ALL METAL L/NUT
> 2.000 MS21045-5 HW PINCH NUT 5/16
> 2.000 MS21919DG12 CUSHIONED CLAMP
> 7.000 MS21919DG2 1/8" CUSHION CLAMP
> 5.000 MS21919DG4 1/4" CUSHION CLAMP
> 5.000 MS21919WDG6 3/8" CUSHION CLAMP
> 1.000 MS21919DG8 CUSHIONED CLAMP
> 1.000 MS21919DG10 CUSHIONED CLAMP
> 3.000 MS21919WDG3 3/16" CUSHIONED CLAMP
> 1.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
> 1.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
>
> BAG 972 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
> 6.000 BUSHING SB375-3 SNAP-IN 3/16ID 3/8 OD
> 4.000 BUSHING SB500-6 SNAP-IN 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
> 2.000 BUSHING SB625-8 SNAP-IN 1/2ID 5/8 OD
> 6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
> 12.000 RIVET LP4-3 POP RIVET
> 2.000 BUSH AL-058X5/16X1 ALUMINUM BUSHING -8
> 2.000 C-606 LINK
> 2.000 F-1016H GUIDE BRACKET
>
> 1.000 BAG 995 WIRING KIT HW
> 20.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
> 5.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
> 7.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
> 17.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
> 1.000 AN5-5A BOLT
> 1.000 AN960-516 WASHER 5/16
> 1.000 AN365-524 NUT,STOP 5/16-24
> 4.000 MS35333-39 3/16 INT TOOTH L/W
>
> 1.000 BAG 997 SPARE WIRE LABELS
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL F1
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5J SHRINK LABEL J1
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J2
> 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
> 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J5
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K1
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K2
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L1
> 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L2
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L3
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L4
> 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L5
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L6
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L7
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P1
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P2
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P3
> 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P7
> 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P8
> 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P9
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P12
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL Q1
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X.25
>
> 1.000 F-10110-L WIRE COVER
> 1.000 F-10111 ANGLE BRACKETS
> 1.000 WH-800A TERMINAL BLOCK BASE
> 1.000 WH-800B TERMINAL BLOCK TOP
> 1.000 WH-801 RT.CONSOLE TEMPLATE
> 1.000 WH-P13 BUSS BAR JUMPER #8
> 1.000 WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25"
> 2.000 WH-P25 #2 AWG BRAIDED 7.25"
> 1.000 WH-P27 #2 AWG ELEC.CABLE
> 1.000 WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75"
> 1.000 WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11"
> 1.000 ES 24021 STARTER SOLENOID 2OUT
> 1.000 ES 24115 MASTER RELAY
> 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall Forward Cables |
I just wanted to verify the cables that I'll have on an IO-540.
I have the Mixture, Prop, Throttle cables...all nice heavy
green covered ones.
I also have 3 plain push-pull cables with black knobs.
I know one is front seat and one is rear seat heat, but
the 3rd....all I can see is that it looks to be going to the
FAB under the engine. I do see references to "carb heat",
and "alternate air". Is this just the cable that opens
the air bypass from the FAB? If so, would it be labeled
"Alternate Air"?
I wouldn't need to be asking so soon, but I'm trying to plan for
where these cables will mount before I silkscreen my panel
lables. Not sure if I should just mount them on that bottom
panel support bar, or build a separate bracket....or build
a console under the throttle quadrant.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Spinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
Put your gps antenna on a bracket off of the firewall under the cowling.
I've done it on 2 planes and it works great. I think the XM can go
there too. I can send a picture if you need to see the set-up.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see
how yours are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and
SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Yes the pictures would help and I think it is a great idea.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
rene(at)felker.com
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Antennas
Put your gps antenna on a bracket off of the firewall under the cowling.
I've done it on 2 planes and it works great. I think the XM can go there
too. I can send a picture if you need to see the set-up.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see how
yours are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Check the Archer documentation. I believe I read that putting two navs on a splitter
with his antenna will damage the radios,
----- Original Message -----
From: Rene
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 9:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see how yours
are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Van's RV-10 Wiring kit/fuel floats |
Tim,
Thanks for the tip to hold off riveting bottom skins until painting.
I had a heck of a time adjusting the fuel floats in the QB - have to look
through the tiny drain hole to see where the float hits. And just when I get
it centered between the top stiffener and vent line it hits the stiffener on
the bottom - couple hours of trial and error getting the arch of the travel
just right. It is still a little too close to the stiffeners for my liking.
Did you get ample clearance on both ends? The final resistance readings
were 30.1 to 248.9 - that should work.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB bottom skins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's RV-10 Wiring kit
John,
I would think that for most -10 builders, it will be hard to stick with a
"standard" wiring kit. They're including a lot of stuff in the area of
switches and things that you may not want, depending on how you wire your
panel and what components you go with.
The wiring, in my mind, is a pretty custom thing for most builders, and
doesn't seem to go well with making a "kit", unless maybe you had them trim
the kit down to some bare essentials that you know you'll do as stock.
A comforting thing is that you have lots of time to think this through, as
you can get all the way through the engine install before you have to worry
about pulling any wires (just leave your bottom wing skins off until
painting time).
How far are you on the tailcone? It says "finishing tail", but is that
including the tailcone? If so, you're moving along well and congrats!
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: spinner
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com wrote:
> Vans now has a wiring kit out for the 10 (details below). Has anyone
> purchased it or given it serious consideration? Is this a reasonable
> route to go or do you believe it better to go thru Stein or another
source?
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Finishing tail
>
>
>
> *ES WH 10 KIT I(O)-540 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS */1.000 WH-10 HARNESS
> I(O)-540/ 1.000 WH-F1 INSTR BKR-TB #16 1.000 WH-J1 ALT BKR-ALT #8
> 1.000 WH-J2 ALT SW-V REG-ALT #18 1.000 WH-J3 IG SW LEFT-PLEAD #18S
> 1.000 WH-J4 IG SW R-PLEAD #18S 1.000 WH-J5 IG SW-TB GND 1.000 WH-K1 IG
> SW-START RELAY #18 1.000 WH-K2 IG SW-INST TB #18 1.000 WH-L1 NAV LT
> SW-PNL LT #18 1.000 WH-L2 LAND/TAXI SW-R TB #14 1.000 WH-L3-1 STROBE
> SWITCH >POWER 1.000 WH-L4 NAV LT SW-R TB #18 1.000 WH-L5 LAND/TAXI
> SW-L TB #14 1.000 WH-L7 NAV SW-L TB #18 1.000 WH-L8 NAV.LT TO TAIL
> LIGHT 1.000 WH-P12 RADIO SW-TB #16 1.000 WH-P2 MASTER SW-GND #18 1.000
> WH-P3 MASTER SW-M RELAY #18 1.000 WH-P8 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18 1.000 WH-P9
> FLAP SW-MOTOR #18 1.000 WH-P28 BUSS BAR JUMPER 1.000 WH-Q1 PUMP
> SW-PUMP #18 40.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP 1.000 WH-P7
> FLAP CIRCUIT WIRE 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
>
> /1.000 ES WH-SK HARNESS SUPPLEMENT/
> 20.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP 55.000 WIRE M22759/16-18
> #18 GAUGE ELECT WIRE 55.000 WIRE M22759/16-16 #16 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
> 25.000 WIRE M22759/16-14 #14 GAUGE ELECT WIRE 25.000 WIRE M22759/16-22
> 22 GA ELECT WIRE $/FT 12.000 ES 36152 TERMINAL #20 WR #6 TR 35.000 ES
> 31890 #18 TERMINAL 5.000 ES 36154 TERMINAL #20WR #10STD 20.000 ES
> 320565 #14-16 TERMINAL 1.000 ES 324082 #8 RING/ 1/4 STUD 8.000 ES
> 320559 #18 SPLICE 7.000 ES 320562 #14-16 SPLICE 1.000 ES HST-3/8X1'
> HEAT SHRINK TUBE 1.000 ES HST-3/16X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE 1.000 ES
> HST-1/4X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE 2.000 ES BUSS BAR-063X.5 1/16X1/2X12
> COPPER BR 25.000 DUCT NT5/8 NYLON 5/8 TUBE ($/FT) 4.000 MS25171-1S
> NIPPLE (BOOT) SMALL 7.000 MS25171-3S NIPPLE (BOOT) LARGE 6.000 BUSHING
> SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD 4.000 BUSHING SB437-4 SNAP-IN 1/4ID
> 7/16 OD 1.000 TAPE UHMW 3"X12" INSULATING TAPE 1.000 ES 324044 #8L
> TERMINAL 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
>
> /1.000 ES WH-SW 10 BREAKER SET RV-10A/ 2.000 ES PBB-5 TOGGLE SWITCH
> BREAKER 3.000 ES PBB-10 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER 1.000 ES PBB-20 TOGGLE
> SWITCH BREAKER 1.000 ES PBB-5A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER 1.000 ES
> PBB-10A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER 1.000 ES CB 1648-009-060 60 AMP
> CIRCUIT BRKER 1.000 ES 2GK54-73 SWITCH DPST SWITCH (ON/OFF) 1.000
> ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
>
> 1.000 DOC ES HARNESS-10 WIRING DWGS AND TEXT
>
> BAG 970 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
> 1.000 AN3-4A BOLT
> 3.000 AN3-3A BOLT
> 1.000 AN365-428 NUT,STOP 1/4-28
> 12.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
> 2.000 AN4-4A BOLT
> 1.000 AN4-5A BOLT
> 1.000 AN509-10R12 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
> 1.000 AN509-8R8 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
> 10.000 AN515-8R8 SCREW,ROUND HD
> 2.000 AN526C832R8 SCREW,TRUSS HD SS
> 2.000 AN5-4A BOLT
>
> BAG 971 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
> 4.000 AN960-10L WASHER, THIN
> 4.000 AN960-416 WASHER 1/4
> 2.000 AN960-516L WASHER (032) 5/16
> 12.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
> 2.000 K1000-08 PLATENUT 8-32
> 4.000 MS21042-3 1032 ALL METAL L/NUT
> 2.000 MS21045-5 HW PINCH NUT 5/16
> 2.000 MS21919DG12 CUSHIONED CLAMP
> 7.000 MS21919DG2 1/8" CUSHION CLAMP
> 5.000 MS21919DG4 1/4" CUSHION CLAMP
> 5.000 MS21919WDG6 3/8" CUSHION CLAMP
> 1.000 MS21919DG8 CUSHIONED CLAMP
> 1.000 MS21919DG10 CUSHIONED CLAMP
> 3.000 MS21919WDG3 3/16" CUSHIONED CLAMP 1.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN
> HD SCREW 1.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
>
> BAG 972 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
> 6.000 BUSHING SB375-3 SNAP-IN 3/16ID 3/8 OD 4.000 BUSHING SB500-6
> SNAP-IN 3/8 ID 1/2 OD 2.000 BUSHING SB625-8 SNAP-IN 1/2ID 5/8 OD 6.000
> BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD 12.000 RIVET LP4-3 POP RIVET
> 2.000 BUSH AL-058X5/16X1 ALUMINUM BUSHING -8 2.000 C-606 LINK 2.000
> F-1016H GUIDE BRACKET
>
> 1.000 BAG 995 WIRING KIT HW
> 20.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
> 5.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW 7.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN
> HD SCR.
> 17.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
> 1.000 AN5-5A BOLT
> 1.000 AN960-516 WASHER 5/16
> 1.000 AN365-524 NUT,STOP 5/16-24
> 4.000 MS35333-39 3/16 INT TOOTH L/W
>
> 1.000 BAG 997 SPARE WIRE LABELS
> 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL F1 1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5J
> SHRINK LABEL J1 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J2 1.000 WH
> SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK
> LABEL 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J5 1.000 WH
> SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K1 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL
> K2 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L1 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L
> SHRINK LABEL L2 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L3 1.000 WH
> SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L4 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL
> L5 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L6 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5
> SHRINK LABEL L7 1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P1 1.000 WH
> SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P2 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL
> P3 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P7 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P
> SHRINK LABEL P8 1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P9 1.000 WH
> SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P12 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL
> Q1 1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X.25
>
> 1.000 F-10110-L WIRE COVER
> 1.000 F-10111 ANGLE BRACKETS
> 1.000 WH-800A TERMINAL BLOCK BASE
> 1.000 WH-800B TERMINAL BLOCK TOP
> 1.000 WH-801 RT.CONSOLE TEMPLATE
> 1.000 WH-P13 BUSS BAR JUMPER #8
> 1.000 WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25"
> 2.000 WH-P25 #2 AWG BRAIDED 7.25"
> 1.000 WH-P27 #2 AWG ELEC.CABLE
> 1.000 WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75"
> 1.000 WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11"
> 1.000 ES 24021 STARTER SOLENOID 2OUT
> 1.000 ES 24115 MASTER RELAY
> 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel strainer and drain plug seal |
What do you use to seal the fuel strainer and drain plug on the tanks?
Plans just say install them. Do you put Proseal on them or some other type
of sealant. Seem like just metal on metal won't be a good seal.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB bottom skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal |
John,
Amazingly it does seal - metal to metal.
Anh
#141
Cowling
----- Original Message -----
From: jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
What do you use to seal the fuel strainer and drain plug on the tanks? Plans
just say install them. Do you put Proseal on them or some other type of sealant.
Seem like just metal on metal won't be a good seal.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB bottom skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
MessagePhotos of an under-cowl GPS antenna installation:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030824.html
See the bottom of the page. It works flawlessly...although somebody did say something
about metallic paint being problematic. I can't vouch for that, just
what I heard.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (605 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Rene
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 6:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Antennas
Yes the pictures would help and I think it is a great idea.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
rene(at)felker.com
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 6:35 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Antennas
Put your gps antenna on a bracket off of the firewall under the cowling. I've
done it on 2 planes and it works great. I think the XM can go there too. I
can send a picture if you need to see the set-up.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 12:04 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see how
yours are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Van's RV-10 Wiring kit/fuel floats |
LOL.....
Finally a reason to NOT order the QB wings, adjusting the float arms.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxl(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Van's wiring kit |
On one of the other lists some time ago,
Wiremasters<http://www.wiremasters.net/>in TN was recommended as an
inexpensive place for RG-400
(and all 22759 wire). Please note that I have NO experience with them, just
passing on a previous recommendation--so please do some homework. -Jim
> > Where did you buy the wire? Any place special? I need to start the
> wiring.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel strainer and drain plug seal |
Everywhere outside of the tank, use thread sealant on all threaded fluid
fittings. The best I have found it the "Teflon" type thread sealant sold at
Napa auto part stores. This is the stuff in a tube, not Teflon tape. Keep
it a thread or two away from the end of the fitting so that no sealant
contacts fluid.
No sealant on flared fittings.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200hrs)
Dogwood Airpark (VA-42)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:02 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
What do you use to seal the fuel strainer and drain plug on the tanks?
Plans just say install them. Do you put Proseal on them or some other type
of sealant. Seem like just metal on metal won't be a good seal.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB bottom skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CustomACProp(at)aol.com |
Hi All,
The general plan looks good.
Bob Archer recommends that his Marker Beacon antenna should be mounted in
the same wingtip with the NAV antenna.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 08/27/2005 11:59:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv10-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see how
yours are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | AHRS proximity to GPS/WSI antennas |
Anyone know if there's a limitation on how close you can mount an AHRS
to a GPS antenna, or a WSI antenna? I see all sorts of restrictions
on proximity to steel, and high current devices, but not to things
like antennas and shielded wires like that. The WSI does a transmit
and receive, but the others are receive only.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal |
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Froehlich
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 9:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
Everywhere outside of the tank, use thread sealant on all threaded fluid fittings.
The best I have found it the "Teflon" type thread sealant sold at Napa
auto part stores. This is the stuff in a tube, not Teflon tape. Keep it a thread
or two away from the end of the fitting so that no sealant contacts fluid.
No sealant on flared fittings.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200hrs)
Dogwood Airpark (VA-42)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:02 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
What do you use to seal the fuel strainer and drain plug on the tanks? Plans
just say install them. Do you put Proseal on them or some other type of sealant.
Seem like just metal on metal won't be a good seal.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB bottom skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal |
suggest you put fuel lube on those fittings. then no chance of Teflon migrating
anywhere in the fuel system and causing fuel blockage...----- Original Message
-----
From: Carl Froehlich
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 9:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
Everywhere outside of the tank, use thread sealant on all threaded fluid fittings.
The best I have found it the "Teflon" type thread sealant sold at Napa
auto part stores. This is the stuff in a tube, not Teflon tape. Keep it a thread
or two away from the end of the fitting so that no sealant contacts fluid.
No sealant on flared fittings.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (200hrs)
Dogwood Airpark (VA-42)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:02 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
What do you use to seal the fuel strainer and drain plug on the tanks? Plans
just say install them. Do you put Proseal on them or some other type of sealant.
Seem like just metal on metal won't be a good seal.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB bottom skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
If I recall correctly (IIRC) Bob Archer states in his documentation for the nav
antenna that it may not be split as will damage the radios. Better check that
with him.
----- Original Message -----
From: CustomACProp(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
Hi All,
The general plan looks good.
Bob Archer recommends that his Marker Beacon antenna should be mounted in the
same wingtip with the NAV antenna.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 08/27/2005 11:59:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv10-list-digest(at)matronics.com
writes:
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
Randy and others.
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see how
yours are working.
Here is my general plan.
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
Whip comm antenna on the belly
Transponder antenna on the belly
ELT antenna in tail
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
XM radio antenna on glare shield
Thanks in advance for any comments.
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal |
Here's the stuff on Aircraft Spruce...
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php>
They also have a smaller 5 oz. tube not shown on the website. PN 09-00306
-Sean #40303
David McNeill wrote:
> suggest you put fuel lube on those fittings. then no chance of Teflon
> migrating anywhere in the fuel system and causing fuel
> blockage...----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Carl Froehlich
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2005 9:09 AM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
>
> Everywhere outside of the tank, use thread sealant on all threaded
> fluid fittings. The best I have found it the "Teflon" type thread
> sealant sold at Napa auto part stores. This is the stuff in a
> tube, not Teflon tape. Keep it a thread or two away from the end
> of the fitting so that no sealant contacts fluid.
>
> No sealant on flared fittings.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (200hrs)
> Dogwood Airpark (VA-42)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of
> *jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:02 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fuel strainer and drain plug seal
>
> What do you use to seal the fuel strainer and drain plug on
> the tanks? Plans just say install them. Do you put Proseal on
> them or some other type of sealant. Seem like just metal on
> metal won't be a good seal.
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Working on QB bottom skins
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's wiring kit |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Since people are asking for RG400, I found a company on Ebay that deals
in surplus wiring, he has RG400 at a great deal, I got 120 feet plus
shipping for $60, I asked if it was ok to post his email for the RV
group and he said he would be happy to sell to us, tell him you heard it
from Dan Lloyd, and his email is s.mogle [s.mogle(at)insightbb.com] very
fast turn around and great communication! I do not have an affiliation
with him, other than a satisfied customer.
Dan 40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Beyer
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Van's wiring kit
On one of the other lists some time ago, Wiremasters
<http://www.wiremasters.net/> in TN was recommended as an inexpensive
place for RG-400 (and all 22759 wire). Please note that I have NO
experience with them, just passing on a previous recommendation--so
please do some homework. -Jim
jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com >
> Where did you buy the wire? Any place special? I need to
start the wiring.
=09
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall Forward Cables |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Yes Tim, I labeled mine alt air. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall Forward Cables
I just wanted to verify the cables that I'll have on an IO-540.
I have the Mixture, Prop, Throttle cables...all nice heavy
green covered ones.
I also have 3 plain push-pull cables with black knobs.
I know one is front seat and one is rear seat heat, but
the 3rd....all I can see is that it looks to be going to the
FAB under the engine. I do see references to "carb heat",
and "alternate air". Is this just the cable that opens
the air bypass from the FAB? If so, would it be labeled
"Alternate Air"?
I wouldn't need to be asking so soon, but I'm trying to plan for
where these cables will mount before I silkscreen my panel
lables. Not sure if I should just mount them on that bottom
panel support bar, or build a separate bracket....or build
a console under the throttle quadrant.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Spinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I specifically asked Bob A. about splitting the signal when trying to
decide what to do for antennas. His only comment was that you'd have
much less signal due to loss from the splitter. The nav antenna was no
more expensive than a splitter so I just decided to put a nav antenna in
each wingtip. Not sure I'll ever use both, but they're there.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
If I recall correctly (IIRC) Bob Archer states in his documentation for
the nav antenna that it may not be split as will damage the radios.
Better check that with him.
----- Original Message -----
From: CustomACProp(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
Hi All,
The general plan looks good.
Bob Archer recommends that his Marker Beacon antenna should be
mounted in the same wingtip with the NAV antenna.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 08/27/2005 11:59:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv10-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
=09
Randy and others.
=09
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and
wanted to see how
yours are working.
=09
Here is my general plan.
=09
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared
by a 430 and SL30
=09
Whip comm antenna on the belly
=09
Transponder antenna on the belly
=09
ELT antenna in tail
=09
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
=09
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
=09
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
=09
XM radio antenna on glare shield
=09
Thanks in advance for any comments.
=09
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
As far as I know you can split them just fine. You end up with about 50% of the
signal but that's it. The thing you can not do is combine two antennas into
one thinking you will get coverage better. Big no no.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing LE's
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Antennas
I specifically asked Bob A. about splitting the signal when trying to decide what
to do for antennas. His only comment was that you'd have much less signal
due to loss from the splitter. The nav antenna was no more expensive than a splitter
so I just decided to put a nav antenna in each wingtip. Not sure I'll
ever use both, but they're there.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
If I recall correctly (IIRC) Bob Archer states in his documentation for the nav
antenna that it may not be split as will damage the radios. Better check that
with him.
----- Original Message -----
From: CustomACProp(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2005 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
Hi All,
The general plan looks good.
Bob Archer recommends that his Marker Beacon antenna should be mounted
in the same wingtip with the NAV antenna.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 08/27/2005 11:59:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rv10-list-digest(at)matronics.com
writes:
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Antennas
=09
Randy and others.
=09
I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted
to see how
yours are working.
=09
Here is my general plan.
=09
Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430
and SL30
=09
Whip comm antenna on the belly
=09
Transponder antenna on the belly
=09
ELT antenna in tail
=09
Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
=09
Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
=09
GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
=09
XM radio antenna on glare shield
=09
Thanks in advance for any comments.
=09
Rene'
40322
N423CF
80% wings...10% Fuslage
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | RFI /EMI in flying 10s |
Anyone experiencing EMI/RFI in flying aircraft with the belly mounted RAMI AV17
com antenna? Specifically any twitching of the TT autopilot or Ray Allen trim
LED? Currently experiencing same in Glastar and am trying to deicide whether
to shield all digital traffic in the 10.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | IO-540 questions |
I am looking at a rebuilt engine for purchase and have a couple
questions:
> Is there any advantage of a narrow or wide deck IO-540 configuration
(or what's the difference)?
>Mounting ears I believe need to be the # 70456 - 30 degree ears?
>When specifying the mount style for the finishing kit is the "dynafocal
I "- the typical one and again what are you looking for to tell the
difference?
>Anything else to look out for?
Thanks for all the help!
Byron # 40253 - Installing fuselage floors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
It seems that most 10 builders are putting there com and transponder
antennas on the belly under the baggage compartment or the rear seats.
Anyone putting there transponder or com antenna under the front floorboards?
Are you putting in any access panels to get to the antenna or wiring in
the future?
Larry Rosen
#356
Rene wrote:
> Randy and others.
>
> I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see
> how yours are working.
>
> Here is my general plan.
>
> Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
>
> Whip comm antenna on the belly
>
> Transponder antenna on the belly
>
> ELT antenna in tail
>
> Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
>
> Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
>
> GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
>
> XM radio antenna on glare shield
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
> Rene'
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
> 80% wings..10% Fuslage
>
> 801-721-6080
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Not under the front floorboards, but under the front seats, yes, comm on left side
and transponder on the right.
Com #2 on top, at front of tailcone, with GPS behind that.
Bob Archer Nav in the wingtip.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
It seems that most 10 builders are putting there com and transponder
antennas on the belly under the baggage compartment or the rear seats.
Anyone putting there transponder or com antenna under the front floorboards?
Are you putting in any access panels to get to the antenna or wiring in
the future?
Larry Rosen
#356
Rene wrote:
> Randy and others.
>
> I am to the point of having to commit on my antennas and wanted to see
> how yours are working.
>
> Here is my general plan.
>
> Archer Nav antenna in the right wingtip, will be shared by a 430 and SL30
>
> Whip comm antenna on the belly
>
> Transponder antenna on the belly
>
> ELT antenna in tail
>
> Archer marker antenna in left wing tip
>
> Archer comm antenna in left wingtip
>
> GPS antenna on top of canopy or on glare shield
>
> XM radio antenna on glare shield
>
> Thanks in advance for any comments.
>
> Rene'
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
> 80% wings..10% Fuslage
>
> 801-721-6080
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 25 Msgs - 08/28/05 |
Hi All,
I believe what you remember is that one COM antenna should not use a
splitter for two COM radios.
It is a common practice to split the signal from one NAV antenna into two
NAV receivers. (Usually only one NAV antenna mounted outside on the factory
built aircraft.)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
PS Bob Archer has an active COM radio splitter (pn SA-010) that allows two
COM radio's to operate from one COM antenna.
In a message dated 08/28/2005 11:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv10-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
If I recall correctly (IIRC) Bob Archer states in his documentation for the
nav
antenna that it may not be split as will damage the radios. Better check that
with him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
Hi All,
I believe what you remember is that one COM antenna should not use a
splitter for two COM radios.
It is a common practice to split the signal from one NAV antenna into two
NAV receivers. (Usually only one NAV antenna mounted outside on the factory
built aircraft.)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
PS Bob Archer has an active COM radio splitter (pn SA-010) that allows two
COM radio's to operate from one COM antenna.
In a message dated 08/28/2005 11:59:49 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv10-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antennas
If I recall correctly (IIRC) Bob Archer states in his documentation for the
nav
antenna that it may not be split as will damage the radios. Better check that
with him.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
I hate the thought of comm. Antennas under my feet. Don't you know that it
causes athletes feet and bad toe nails.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Antennas
lol....hanger tales of transponder antenna's frying the ol' brain are still
around, what say all about that theroy? I heard it was unfounded but I can
see why it is point of concern.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash? |
Hi Listers,
Does anyone know the story behind this aircraft and the crash? Almost
looks like an RC model especially given the cameraman's rather
unemotional comment following the crash. Kind of looks like the
elevator may have been hooked up backwards following a rebuild.
http://media4.big-boys.com/content/oldplanecrash.wmv
Any information on this video would be intersting.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LeastDrag93066(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Build your own wingtip antenna? |
Hi All,
Does Bob Nuckols instructions include the capacitance between the antenna
element and ground plane element?
If the capacitance is wrong the antenna is bad. Even if the antenna's are
physically identical in shape.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Antennas
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
(Stuff Cut)
For anyone that has Bob Knuckols Aeroelectric Connection handbook and is
interested
in the Archer antenna, save yourself $70 and spend the $10 in parts and
use the diagram in Bob's book to build your own. It's identical. I was
wondering
if there was any difference and decided to order them anyway from Stein.
Got one and the other was on backorder, compared it to the book, promptly
called
Stein and canceled the backordered one. Absolutely nothing against Stein,
he just gets them from Archer and resells them.
As far as the carbon fiber canopy goes, easy to find out just stick a GPS
antenna
to the inside top. If it works no carbon.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Wing LE's
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash? |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
http://aviation-safety.net/database/record.php?id=19920827-1
http://www.asasi.org/papers/2001/Four%20Unrelated%20Accidents.pdf
From a web forum:
that crashed happened in gimli manitoba canada, and the pilots died, they forgot
to remove the flight control locks, resulting in a very agressive pitch angle
causing a stall. it was the final test flight before the turbine engine mod
was fully approved for commercial use. ...
Submitted by: HANKJR84 at 8/30/2005 12:30:06 AM
Just a note to all of you idiots out there who dont understand what really happened.
First, YES IT"S REAL. Second, the crewmembers were killed instantly. This
Caribou was experimental and had just been converted to P&W turbo prop engines
from P&W R-2000 piston engines. Third, this was a test flight. Fourth, the
aircraft took off with the GUST LOCKS ENGAGED for a reason that 99 out of 100
of you nitwits wouldnt even understand. Fifth, the pilots were unable to release
the GUST LOCKS after becoming airborne because of airloads on the flight controls.
Sixth,the aircraft flew ...
Submitted by: KIM1942 at 8/30/2005 12:28:42 AM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Subject: RV10-List: Anyone Know The Story Behind This Crash?
Hi Listers,
Does anyone know the story behind this aircraft and the crash? Almost
looks like an RC model especially given the cameraman's rather
unemotional comment following the crash. Kind of looks like the
elevator may have been hooked up backwards following a rebuild.
http://media4.big-boys.com/content/oldplanecrash.wmv
Any information on this video would be intersting.
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Van's RV-10 Wiring kit |
There have been a lot of replies to this, but I will give it a shot since we
did actually install Van's kit in our -10. We had never done wiring before
and had absolutely no clue where to start. The price wasn't bad considering
that in included switches and breakers, but it would have been a little
cheaper just doing it ourselves. I will list some of my Pros and Cons:
Pros:
- It gave me a clue of where to start. I didn't
completely follow the directions, but I would have been floundering without
that good initial direction.
- The wiring schematic that came with the kit was
incredibly helpful and I used that as a basis for our other wiring as well.
Cons:
- The breakers that came with it were not the push-pull
type which is what I installed for all of our avionics and stuff. I will
probably replace them.
- Unless you plan on routing the wires and having the
switches and breakers exactly where they recommend, you may be in trouble.
We routed all of our wires down the right side so we can access them later.
The Starter cable was about 2 feet too short. I got one from Stein and it
was much nicer and more flexible cable.
- Everything is white so without the labels on the ends
of the wire you have no clue what that's for. I went to a forum at Oshkosh
(the guy from Blue Mountain did it) and I agree completely that using all
white wiring is stupid. You have no clue what things are for. He
recommends taking the red and black (or whatever colors you are using) and
twisting them together with a drill. He also recommends running every
ground straight back to the battery, which I very well may do next time.
- You will need more wires in almost every direction
that this harness goes, so you may want to disassemble it at some point
anyway to join other wires to it. This is not a really big deal.
- They put the kit together for a Carbureted engine so
the fuel pump only had a 5A switch. The Injected pump needs a 10A switch
and possibly heavier wire. This isn't a really big deal either if you make
sure they send the switch that you need. I think for the length of the run
the wire that they include is sufficient.
I think you can probably have Van's leave out some parts of it, like the
breakers, switches and maybe even the starter cable. Overall, I would say
that if you haven't done wiring before and you don't really know where to
start, this is a good investment. The instructions for putting together a
buss bar for breakers and switches and stuff like that is a huge help if you
are going to do things that way, which we did.
Hope this helps.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
Subject: RV10-List: Van's RV-10 Wiring kit
Vans now has a wiring kit out for the 10 (details below). Has anyone
purchased it or given it serious consideration? Is this a reasonable route
to go or do you believe it better to go thru Stein or another source?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing tail
ES WH 10 KIT I(O)-540 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 WH-10 HARNESS I(O)-540
1.000 WH-F1 INSTR BKR-TB #16
1.000 WH-J1 ALT BKR-ALT #8
1.000 WH-J2 ALT SW-V REG-ALT #18
1.000 WH-J3 IG SW LEFT-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J4 IG SW R-PLEAD #18S
1.000 WH-J5 IG SW-TB GND
1.000 WH-K1 IG SW-START RELAY #18
1.000 WH-K2 IG SW-INST TB #18
1.000 WH-L1 NAV LT SW-PNL LT #18
1.000 WH-L2 LAND/TAXI SW-R TB #14
1.000 WH-L3-1 STROBE SWITCH >POWER
1.000 WH-L4 NAV LT SW-R TB #18
1.000 WH-L5 LAND/TAXI SW-L TB #14
1.000 WH-L7 NAV SW-L TB #18
1.000 WH-L8 NAV.LT TO TAIL LIGHT
1.000 WH-P12 RADIO SW-TB #16
1.000 WH-P2 MASTER SW-GND #18
1.000 WH-P3 MASTER SW-M RELAY #18
1.000 WH-P8 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P9 FLAP SW-MOTOR #18
1.000 WH-P28 BUSS BAR JUMPER
1.000 WH-Q1 PUMP SW-PUMP #18
40.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
1.000 WH-P7 FLAP CIRCUIT WIRE
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SK HARNESS SUPPLEMENT
20.000 PLASTIC TIE WRAP 4 4" PLASTIC TIE WRAP
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-18 #18 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
55.000 WIRE M22759/16-16 #16 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-14 #14 GAUGE ELECT WIRE
25.000 WIRE M22759/16-22 22 GA ELECT WIRE $/FT
12.000 ES 36152 TERMINAL #20 WR #6 TR
35.000 ES 31890 #18 TERMINAL
5.000 ES 36154 TERMINAL #20WR #10STD
20.000 ES 320565 #14-16 TERMINAL
1.000 ES 324082 #8 RING/ 1/4 STUD
8.000 ES 320559 #18 SPLICE
7.000 ES 320562 #14-16 SPLICE
1.000 ES HST-3/8X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-3/16X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
1.000 ES HST-1/4X1' HEAT SHRINK TUBE
2.000 ES BUSS BAR-063X.5 1/16X1/2X12 COPPER BR
25.000 DUCT NT5/8 NYLON 5/8 TUBE ($/FT)
4.000 MS25171-1S NIPPLE (BOOT) SMALL
7.000 MS25171-3S NIPPLE (BOOT) LARGE
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB437-4 SNAP-IN 1/4ID 7/16 OD
1.000 TAPE UHMW 3"X12" INSULATING TAPE
1.000 ES 324044 #8L TERMINAL
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 ES WH-SW 10 BREAKER SET RV-10A
2.000 ES PBB-5 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
3.000 ES PBB-10 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-20 TOGGLE SWITCH BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-5A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES PBB-10A CB PLAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER
1.000 ES CB 1648-009-060 60 AMP CIRCUIT BRKER
1.000 ES 2GK54-73 SWITCH DPST SWITCH (ON/OFF)
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF SUBKIT------
1.000 DOC ES HARNESS-10 WIRING DWGS AND TEXT
BAG 970 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
1.000 AN3-4A BOLT
3.000 AN3-3A BOLT
1.000 AN365-428 NUT,STOP 1/4-28
12.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
2.000 AN4-4A BOLT
1.000 AN4-5A BOLT
1.000 AN509-10R12 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
1.000 AN509-8R8 SCREW,FLT HD STRUCT
10.000 AN515-8R8 SCREW,ROUND HD
2.000 AN526C832R8 SCREW,TRUSS HD SS
2.000 AN5-4A BOLT
BAG 971 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
4.000 AN960-10L WASHER, THIN
4.000 AN960-416 WASHER 1/4
2.000 AN960-516L WASHER (032) 5/16
12.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
2.000 K1000-08 PLATENUT 8-32
4.000 MS21042-3 1032 ALL METAL L/NUT
2.000 MS21045-5 HW PINCH NUT 5/16
2.000 MS21919DG12 CUSHIONED CLAMP
7.000 MS21919DG2 1/8" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919DG4 1/4" CUSHION CLAMP
5.000 MS21919WDG6 3/8" CUSHION CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG8 CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS21919DG10 CUSHIONED CLAMP
3.000 MS21919WDG3 3/16" CUSHIONED CLAMP
1.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
1.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
BAG 972 RV-10 WIRING HARNESS
6.000 BUSHING SB375-3 SNAP-IN 3/16ID 3/8 OD
4.000 BUSHING SB500-6 SNAP-IN 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
2.000 BUSHING SB625-8 SNAP-IN 1/2ID 5/8 OD
6.000 BUSHING SB750-10 SNAP-IN 5/8 ID 3/4 OD
12.000 RIVET LP4-3 POP RIVET
2.000 BUSH AL-058X5/16X1 ALUMINUM BUSHING -8
2.000 C-606 LINK
2.000 F-1016H GUIDE BRACKET
1.000 BAG 995 WIRING KIT HW
20.000 AN365-832A NUT,STOP 8-32
5.000 MS35206-248 832X3/4 PAN HD SCREW
7.000 MS35206-250 832X1 1/4 PAN HD SCR.
17.000 AN960-8 WASHER #8
1.000 AN5-5A BOLT
1.000 AN960-516 WASHER 5/16
1.000 AN365-524 NUT,STOP 5/16-24
4.000 MS35333-39 3/16 INT TOOTH L/W
1.000 BAG 997 SPARE WIRE LABELS
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL F1
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5J SHRINK LABEL J1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J2
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X.25J HEAT SHRINK LABEL
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL J5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL K2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L1
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L3
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L4
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5L SHRINK LABEL L5
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L6
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL L7
1.000 WH SM35-3/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P2
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P3
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P7
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P8
1.000 WH SM35-1/8-9X0.5P SHRINK LABEL P9
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL P12
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X0.5 SHRINK LABEL Q1
1.000 WH SM35-3/32-9X.25
1.000 F-10110-L WIRE COVER
1.000 F-10111 ANGLE BRACKETS
1.000 WH-800A TERMINAL BLOCK BASE
1.000 WH-800B TERMINAL BLOCK TOP
1.000 WH-801 RT.CONSOLE TEMPLATE
1.000 WH-P13 BUSS BAR JUMPER #8
1.000 WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25"
2.000 WH-P25 #2 AWG BRAIDED 7.25"
1.000 WH-P27 #2 AWG ELEC.CABLE
1.000 WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75"
1.000 WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11"
1.000 ES 24021 STARTER SOLENOID 2OUT
1.000 ES 24115 MASTER RELAY
1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 questions |
Byron,
Van's only has one mount style and it is the Dynafocal I. The ears on this mount
seem to point at the C.G. where the Dyno II seem to point somewhere near the
tip of the spinner.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Byron Gillespie
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 5:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 questions
I am looking at a rebuilt engine for purchase and have a couple questions:
> Is there any advantage of a narrow or wide deck IO-540 configuration (or what's
the difference)?
>Mounting ears I believe need to be the # 70456 - 30 degree ears?
>When specifying the mount style for the finishing kit is the "dynafocal I "-
the typical one and again what are you looking for to tell the difference?
>Anything else to look out for?
Thanks for all the help!
Byron # 40253 - Installing fuselage floors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | 3 view line drawings |
I recall seeing some RV10 3view line drawings some where but for the
life of me I can't find them, checked Van's site and Tim's. anybody know
where I can find copies?
Deems Davis # 406
Empennage attach (waiting for wings!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 view line drawings |
I recive mine with the tail cone ,just made a plastic lamination of the three view
and the Cad full schematic of the RV10,in that way I can play over ,if you
whant I will sen a copy ,pay 5 dol, at Kinkos for each one
Hugo
>
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2005/08/30 Tue PM 04:26:42 EDT
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 3 view line drawings
>
>
> I recall seeing some RV10 3view line drawings some where but for the
> life of me I can't find them, checked Van's site and Tim's. anybody know
> where I can find copies?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Empennage attach (waiting for wings!)
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | 3 view line drawings |
It's on Tim's site under the photo section. Try this link:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/rv_drawings/index.html
Marcus
Fuselage slowly progressing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: RV10-List: 3 view line drawings
I recall seeing some RV10 3view line drawings some where but for the
life of me I can't find them, checked Van's site and Tim's. anybody know
where I can find copies?
Deems Davis # 406
Empennage attach (waiting for wings!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3 view line drawings |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: RV10-List: 3 view line drawings
I recall seeing some RV10 3view line drawings some where but for the
life of me I can't find them, checked Van's site and Tim's. anybody know
where I can find copies?
Deems Davis # 406
Empennage attach (waiting for wings!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe power supplies and kits |
Has anyone gotten more detailed info on the strobe power supply options?
There is the CreativeAir AviPak and the Nova SuperPak 606 that seem to be
similar in functionality but with a big cost difference. Is there any real
difference or just a relabeling for an aviation product? Any experience with
the StrobesNMore product? - looks like an attractive deal.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB bottom skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Build your own wingtip antenna? |
I feel the exact same way Rick. I bought 2 NAVs. One for each wing.
NAV1 and NAV2. At that price and a known effectiveness. Why mess
around? Well, unless you want a learning experience I guess.
-Sean #40303
Rick wrote:
> FWIW,
>
> I called Bob and purchased his antenna's. He sent them to me in a week
> and on the honor system.
>
> I believe that if someone has developed a product that works as good
> as everyone says, I'm not going to reinvent the wheel. Yes the
> antennas are sheet aluminum and one may be able to fabricate a clone
> but what if it doesn't work right, are you going to pickup the phone
> and call Bob and ask for help? Think about what you have to do to
> build one of these as well.....The sheet metal material is perfectly
> sheared to a dimension that I'm sure is not pulled out of a hat, the
> placement of the components may or may not be critical, I don't want
> to deal with it, hunt down the stuff to make them, cut it out and hope
> it works? I'm glassing mine into the tips, I want them to work from
> the start. I am only using comm 2 in the tip and using a Comant whip
> for Comm 1 on the belly. For $134 for both in comparison to the total
> cost, I'll stick with the real McCoy and the help line that comes with
> it if needed. I spent more than that on my 4" no hole squeezer yoke.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd3.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator question |
I'm on page 9-7 step 5. It says to dimple the E-616 cover plates for the AN507-6R6
screws. Does this mean I use the #6 screw dimple dies on these dimples???
It also says to dimple the E-615 reinforcement plate to accept the dimple in
the cover plate. Do I use the same dimple die as above???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Wings still in their crates
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator question |
Yes and Yes Bill. If you're not sure, try it on some scraps to make sure everything
will fit.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2005 10:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator question
I'm on page 9-7 step 5. It says to dimple the E-616 cover plates for the AN507-6R6
screws. Does this mean I use the #6 screw dimple dies on these dimples???
It also says to dimple the E-615 reinforcement plate to accept the dimple
in the cover plate. Do I use the same dimple die as above???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
Wings still in their crates
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | FWF/Finishing Missing Parts to date |
I've had people contact me hoping to hear more about the missing
parts I've found recently, so I updated my page to list some
of them. I'm sure there's more than what I have listed, but I'm
trying to keep a good list for you to refer to so you can doublecheck
your inventory. In at least one case, the bag has been changed from
523 to 523-1, indicating that they changed the list. Of course,
the only way you'll ever know that is if we pass the info along,
because they're sure not going to suddenly ship you a package of
your shorted hardware without asking.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050827/index.html
Check it out...in my case, I wouldn't have been able to mount the
engine if I hadn't anticipated some missing bolts.
I also added on a small update last night regarding a battery
box enlargement for the PC925 and spinner initial fitting.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF/Finishing Missing Parts to date |
> here. How many AN7-26 bolts for mounting an engine is a person
> supposed to buy and have on hand? And, since we're going to
That sucks. Didn't realize it was stuff like engine mount bolts or wing
bolts.
> I don't think we're being "spoiled puppies" though when we
Definitely not.
> Also, nobody said they were a "bad kit manufacturer"...but,
> their ability to deliver on parts for the -10 is definitely
> not in the "worlds class" category.
Although my experience with Van's is that during the winter (especially
around inventory time) they tend to be reeeeally slow to ship out little
piddly orders, they were always responsive when I had to call in missing
stuff. Half the time I didn't bother...regardless of whether I was
"entitled" to it or not. I just ordered stuff from Spruce and had it the
next day. Path of least resistance at the time.
Two weeks ago I placed an order from Van's for 50 K1100-06 nutplates, and I
was kind of shocked when I got the order like 3 business days later. It's
usually not that quick.
Anyway, I agree that Van's sometimes leaves something to be desired in the
"slow shipping" dept. But it seems to me that a thorough inventory of your
kit as soon as you receive it (something I'm guilty of not always doing)
would preclude most of the "now I need to wait for a shipment to arrive"
issues down the road. Seems like engine or wing bolts would be something
you'd inventory right away.
If slow shipping and a few missing parts are Van's worst traits, then we're
in good shape. ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
List,
325HP past inspection yesterday with no problems!!! Bad weather and
insurance hold up today for the fist flight
Any recommendations on insurance?
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Skysmith - great bunch of folks. I had some issues with the other major RV insurer
when it came time to renew my builder's policy.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: 325HP
List,
325HP past inspection yesterday with no problems!!! Bad weather and insurance
hold up today for the fist flight
Any recommendations on insurance?
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Is that a 325 HP engine? Jeez, will wait for the 1st flight and report.
Maybe tomorrow????
What engine is it? Please elaborate.
Mani Ravee, MD
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RV10-List: 325HP
List,
325HP past inspection yesterday with no problems!!! Bad weather and
insurance hold up today for the fist flight
Any recommendations on insurance?
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF/Finishing Missing Parts to date |
Mark Ritter wrote:
>
> My two cents - Van is delivering a great product at a great price. I
> can live with a few missing rivets, cotter keys and bolts. Besides I
> like talking to Jessica and she has never failed to have the missing
> items in the mail --- its not like I don't have anything left to do
> while waiting for the brown truck to show up.
>
> Hope the whining stops soon and we can get back to posting building tips.
>
Here's a builder tip...
Don't count on getting all the hardware you need to finish a kit
section. Order extra from ACS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Three bladed props |
Hi All,
Has anyone heard any reports on the performance of the MT three bladed prop?
John Dunne.
RV-10 #40315 (Finishing Tailcone)
acs(at)acspropeller.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Beyer <fehdxl(at)gmail.com> |
Nope, it's his N number... N325HP (confirmed on the FAA's database)
Is that a 325 HP engine?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FWF/Finishing Missing Parts to date |
Hello John
John Jessen wrote:
>
>The reasons I think that Van's should have higher quality control (like the
>individual bubble wrap or even fill the bags more carefully, thus hiring a
>couple more people to put in the time or check how the process is done in
>the first place) are the following:
>
>
>
agree, I was over more then two years in close contact with the folks
building up NewGlasair after
they've restarted, I think the main points are, NG is still a much
smaller company then Van's is so
more down to a controllable bunch of people and NG has Lori =(;o). This
said, they had a very hard
and tough time to find people with the right attitude to get their
shipping to a good standard and this
might just be the problem at Van's getting enough good people who them
selfs feel responsible and
are not just working to have their bucks in the pocket in the evening.
This is always a problem when companies begin to growth in a way where
the personal touch of people
can not follow and if you look at sales numbers you can tell, that Van's
grew a lot the last years.
I agree, a better quality control would suite them, but you might (as
you mentioned) see also prices raise
when this happens (good people need to be paid better so they remain).
It was and is always a nuisance being short of a part and having
(inpatient) to wait for delivery of
needed parts, however when done and having your project in the air all
this will be forgotten and let
behind!!
Werner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Three bladed props |
Has anyone investigated a 3-blade Hartzell?
Maybe the 3-blade designed for the F1 Rocket? 78" 3-blade
HC-F3YR-1ARF/F7693DF
<http://www.hartzellprop.com/kitplane/index_kitplane.htm>
-Sean #40303
Mark Ritter wrote:
>
> Yes and the report was disappointing. Vic Syracuse is flying with a
> three blade MT prop and I believe he is seeing a TAS of 161 - 162
> knots at 8,000'. Vic is working with the folks at MT but have not
> heard anything lately. Jim Ayers (Less Drag guy) is suppose to have
> access to an RV-10 and will be doing a comparison of performance
> between a two blade Hartzell and the three blade MT. When I talked to
> Jim about Vic's performance his reply was "its easy to blame the
> prop". He also told me MT stands behind their product and that I had
> not purchased a lemon. Here's hoping!
>
> Mark
>
> From: /"John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>/
> Reply-To: /rv10-list(at)matronics.com/
> To: //
> Subject: /RV10-List: Three bladed props/
> Date: /Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:35:43 +1000/
>
> Hi All,
>
> Has anyone heard any reports on the performance of the MT three
> bladed prop?
>
>
>
> John Dunne.
>
> RV-10 #40315 (Finishing Tailcone)
>
>
>
> acs(at)acspropeller.com.au
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Rib Tooling Holes |
I remember a discussion a while back regarding other options for closing
up the tooling holes in the inboard and outboard most tank ribs.
Can someone refresh my memory?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Rib Tooling Holes |
Sean -
I have used 470AD5-5 rivets to close those holes on RV-7 and RV-8 tanks.
A Careful "Pre-squeeze" fattens the rivet a little so it won't wobble
around or cleat when it's time to set it in the hole.
neal
I remember a discussion a while back regarding other options for closing
up the tooling holes in the inboard and outboard most tank ribs.
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Tank Rib Tooling Holes |
On my -6, I set 3/16" rivets set into the tooling holes. Providing the hole
size hasn't changed for the -10, I'll be doing the same thing.
- Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Rib Tooling Holes
I remember a discussion a while back regarding other options for closing
up the tooling holes in the inboard and outboard most tank ribs.
Can someone refresh my memory?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Rib Tooling Holes |
Sean
Don't remember the whole discussion which included suggestions to use
"pop" rivets from Lowes but as for me I used an AN470A-5 solid rivet cut to
the appropriate length and covered with proseal. The AN470A is a "soft"
rivet and I used it because I had some. Worked great. Suppose you could
use an AD "hard" rivet also.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Rib Tooling Holes |
Excellent. I have some extra -5s laying around.
Thanks all for the info...
-Sean #40303
>
> From: "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com>
> Date: 2005/09/01 Thu PM 01:00:36 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank Rib Tooling Holes
>
>
> Sean -
>
> I have used 470AD5-5 rivets to close those holes on RV-7 and RV-8 tanks.
> A Careful "Pre-squeeze" fattens the rivet a little so it won't wobble
> around or cleat when it's time to set it in the hole.
>
> neal
>
>
> I remember a discussion a while back regarding other options for closing
>
> up the tooling holes in the inboard and outboard most tank ribs.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank Rib Tooling Holes |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Sean make sure they are AD5-5 or they will turn out to small, the
easiest to do is to make a plate like Dan Checkoway did, and flush rivet
it place and seal it up. That is what I did, took all of 5 extra minutes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
schmoboy(at)cox.net
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Tank Rib Tooling Holes
Excellent. I have some extra -5s laying around.
Thanks all for the info...
-Sean #40303
>
> From: "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com>
> Date: 2005/09/01 Thu PM 01:00:36 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank Rib Tooling Holes
>
>
> Sean -
>
> I have used 470AD5-5 rivets to close those holes on RV-7 and RV-8
tanks.
> A Careful "Pre-squeeze" fattens the rivet a little so it won't wobble
> around or cleat when it's time to set it in the hole.
>
> neal
>
>
> I remember a discussion a while back regarding other options for
closing
>
> up the tooling holes in the inboard and outboard most tank ribs.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Three bladed props |
3 for show two for go!! Having said that if the flaps are not set corectly you
will lose about 8 knots...
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Ritter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 12:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Three bladed props
Yes and the report was disappointing. Vic Syracuse is flying with a three blade
MT prop and I believe he is seeing a TAS of 161 - 162 knots at 8,000'. Vic
is working with the folks at MT but have not heard anything lately. Jim Ayers
(Less Drag guy) is suppose to have access to an RV-10 and will be doing a comparison
of performance between a two blade Hartzell and the three blade MT.
When I talked to Jim about Vic's performance his reply was "its easy to blame
the prop". He also told me MT stands behind their product and that I had not
purchased a lemon. Here's hoping!
Mark
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RV10-List: Three bladed props
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:35:43 +1000
Hi All,
Has anyone heard any reports on the performance of the MT three bladed prop?
John Dunne.
RV-10 #40315 (Finishing Tailcone)
acs(at)acspropeller.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Converting O-540 235 HP to 260 HP |
Looking for any info (STC) on converting a 235 HP O-540 to 260 HP. Any help or
websites/engine builders that do this would be greatly appreciated. I believe
all that is needed are new pistons/rings to go from a 7.250 compression to a
8.50 compression.
Thanks,
DEAN
Looking for any info (STC) on converting a 235 HP O-540 to 260 HP. Any help or
websites/engine builders that do this would be greatly appreciated. I believe
all that is needed are new pistons/rings to go from a 7.250 compression to a 8.50
compression.
Thanks,
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Converting O-540 235 HP to 260 HP |
The first thing you lneed is a lycoming OVH manual and a Parts book!
When in doubt read the book. But this is why you are called experimental.
"ddddsp1(at)juno.com" wrote:
Looking for any info (STC) on converting a 235 HP O-540 to 260 HP. Any help or
websites/engine builders that do this would be greatly appreciated. I believe
all that is needed are new pistons/rings to go from a 7.250 compression to a
8.50 compression.
Thanks,
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Converting O-540 235 HP to 260 HP |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Dean,
It all depends on exact model that you're converting from and to. A
copy of the parts catalog would absolutely verify for you, but I went
through this to convert an O-540-B4B5 to an IO-540-D4A5. Differences
included pistons, mags and carb to FI system. The other common thing
that might be different is the counterweights - you want the
counterweight configuration for the "Hartzell Compact Hub" which I
believe is indicated by the 2nd digit in the suffix being a "4".
There are actually multiple parts catalogs: wide and standard/narrow
deck and at least for the narrow deck there's a catalog each for
carbureted and fuel injected models Part numbers for the narrow deck are
PC-115-2 for the carb engines and PC-215-1 for the fuel injected. They
aren't expense and I've actually got a copy of both. I'd be happy to
look up a detail or two for you, but you really need a copy for your
engine if you're going to work on it.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
ddddsp1(at)juno.com
Subject: RV10-List: Converting O-540 235 HP to 260 HP
Looking for any info (STC) on converting a 235 HP O-540 to 260 HP. Any
help or websites/engine builders that do this would be greatly
appreciated. I believe all that is needed are new pistons/rings to go
from a 7.250 compression to a 8.50 compression.
Thanks,
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Crow's Foot Torque |
Crow's foot adapter? I assume this is what I need to torque the AN
flare fittings for my fuel lines?
If so, can someone point me to a good source to purchase them? Also,
what needs to be added to the torque amount when using one of these?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)thayer.dartmouth.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow's Foot Torque |
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Crow's foot adapter? I assume this is what I need to torque the AN
> flare fittings for my fuel lines?
>
> If so, can someone point me to a good source to purchase them? Also,
> what needs to be added to the torque amount when using one of these?
I got my set from Sears. There is a chart with
my torque wrench that tells you the adjustment to make
when using a crow's foot or similar thing depending on
the length of the offset.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow's Foot Torque |
Harbor Freight sells cheap sets of crowfoot wrenches, flare nut and straight
variety. I only see metric on their web site but they do sell SAE.
Here's a cheap set:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4368152763&category=29527
And here's a calculator that lets you determine torque settings when using a
torque wrench extension:
http://www.rvproject.com/mechanic.html
AC43.13 has a table of torques for AN fluid fittings. Most people I know
use German Torque on AN fittings ("guddenteit").
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Crow's Foot Torque
>
> Crow's foot adapter? I assume this is what I need to torque the AN flare
> fittings for my fuel lines?
>
> If so, can someone point me to a good source to purchase them? Also, what
> needs to be added to the torque amount when using one of these?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Crow's Foot Torque |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Sears sells a good kit, and for torque just use the formula that is in
the book
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Crow's Foot Torque
Crow's foot adapter? I assume this is what I need to torque the AN
flare fittings for my fuel lines?
If so, can someone point me to a good source to purchase them? Also,
what needs to be added to the torque amount when using one of these?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Crow's Foot Torque |
Sean:
I just went through the same exercise. I found a good set at Sears but
purchased a cheap set (~$15 shipped) off eBay that will do the job.
There is a section on use and calculations in Chapter 7 of the "Aircraft
Inspections & Repair Book. I saw a link to a .pdf file the other day on
the list but don't remember who posted.
Byron
Vacation day - working on the fuselage floors #40253
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Crow's Foot Torque
Crow's foot adapter? I assume this is what I need to torque the AN
flare fittings for my fuel lines?
If so, can someone point me to a good source to purchase them? Also,
what needs to be added to the torque amount when using one of these?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Crow's Foot Torque |
You can purchase crow's feet at a variety of places including Sears. If you mount
the crow's foot on your torque wrench at a right angle to the wrench body
you don't need to do any additional calculation to compensate for the length of
the crow's foot, just read the torque directly, otherwise you need to do some
compensation.
Bruce Case, #40446, A&P student
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow's Foot Torque |
Thanks everyone for the replies.
As always, this community is something special...
-Sean #40303
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> Harbor Freight sells cheap sets of crowfoot wrenches, flare nut and
> straight variety. I only see metric on their web site but they do
> sell SAE.
>
> Here's a cheap set:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4368152763&category=29527
>
>
> And here's a calculator that lets you determine torque settings when
> using a torque wrench extension:
> http://www.rvproject.com/mechanic.html
>
> AC43.13 has a table of torques for AN fluid fittings. Most people I
> know use German Torque on AN fittings ("guddenteit").
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 11:03 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Crow's Foot Torque
>
>
>>
>> Crow's foot adapter? I assume this is what I need to torque the AN
>> flare fittings for my fuel lines?
>>
>> If so, can someone point me to a good source to purchase them? Also,
>> what needs to be added to the torque amount when using one of these?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Sean #40303
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow's Foot Torque |
the goodntite is great, thats why they call you experimental.
Harbor Freight sells cheap sets of crowfoot wrenches, flare nut and straight
variety. I only see metric on their web site but they do sell SAE.
Here's a cheap set:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4368152763&category=29527
And here's a calculator that lets you determine torque settings when using a
torque wrench extension:
http://www.rvproject.com/mechanic.html
AC43.13 has a table of torques for AN fluid fittings. Most people I know
use German Torque on AN fittings ("guddenteit").
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens"
Subject: RV10-List: Crow's Foot Torque
>
> Crow's foot adapter? I assume this is what I need to torque the AN flare
> fittings for my fuel lines?
>
> If so, can someone point me to a good source to purchase them? Also, what
> needs to be added to the torque amount when using one of these?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Three bladed props |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I'm going to give Jim a call tomorrow and talk to him about this. Last
I heard was Vic's engine wasn't making full power.
When Van's did their study the MT prop was about 1-2 mph slower but 8
knots is either the engine, or other airframe issues.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie
McGough
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Three bladed props
3 for show two for go!! Having said that if the flaps are not set
corectly you will lose about 8 knots...
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Ritter <mailto:mritter509(at)msn.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 02, 2005 12:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Three bladed props
Yes and the report was disappointing. Vic Syracuse is flying
with a three blade MT prop and I believe he is seeing a TAS of 161 - 162
knots at 8,000'. Vic is working with the folks at MT but have not heard
anything lately. Jim Ayers (Less Drag guy) is suppose to have access to
an RV-10 and will be doing a comparison of performance between a two
blade Hartzell and the three blade MT. When I talked to Jim about Vic's
performance his reply was "its easy to blame the prop". He also told me
MT stands behind their product and that I had not purchased a lemon.
Here's hoping!
Mark
=09
________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RV10-List: Three bladed props
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 12:35:43 +1000
Hi All,
Has anyone heard any reports on the performance of the
MT three bladed prop?
John Dunne.
RV-10 #40315 (Finishing Tailcone)
acs(at)acspropeller.com.au
Features
Subscriptions
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Crow's Foot Torque |
Ah but I do work on airplanes and I do see things that you would not believe and
90% is by the owners and other mechanics who think good and tight is the only
way of doing. And when was the last time you had you own torque qrench checked?
you amature!!!
Rick wrote:
I've torqued AN fittings to specs and found leaks, as Dan says tongue in cheek
"goodintight" with a bit of a German accent, is correct and has nothing to do
with "experimental" unless you are calling our front line fighter aircraft "experimental"
The proecedure I have used, is to start with the spec torque and
during engine run up you do a leak check (required to check for leaks), mainly
on our "experimental F-100/110 engines" and hydraulic powered M61A1 20MM cannons,
(GAU-8 as well but that's another story) funny I always tried to figure
out after we applied the proper torque to all those fittings we had to do an engine
run to check for leaks, seeing how we torqued them and all. Shoot!!!! Look
there a "leak"!!!! IT'S BECAUSE THEY NEED TO BE SNUGGED, maybe past the desired
torque to stop leaks. Why do you think there is a range of torque you dipstick!!
Experimental my A**.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | Canadain inspectors rejecting some re-assembled parts? |
I was speaking to the guy who does homebuilt inspections in my area and
he tells me that it was reported to him that several Canadian RV-10
builders have had either their fast build wings or wing spars fail
inspection due to poor riveting quality in the pre-done assemblies. From
what he could recall he thought the issue was under driven rivets. I'd
sure like to hear from those who had this problem and what was done to
resolve the issue.
Perry Casson - top skin on wing #2
Regina, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadain inspectors rejecting some re-assembled parts? |
Perry this is of serious concern...do you have any more details as I would
like to follow it up at Vans.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Perry Casson" <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Canadain inspectors rejecting some re-assembled parts?
>
> I was speaking to the guy who does homebuilt inspections in my area and he
> tells me that it was reported to him that several Canadian RV-10 builders
> have had either their fast build wings or wing spars fail inspection due
> to poor riveting quality in the pre-done assemblies. From what he could
> recall he thought the issue was under driven rivets. I'd sure like to
> hear from those who had this problem and what was done to resolve the
> issue.
>
> Perry Casson - top skin on wing #2
> Regina, Canada
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
All,
Even though I'm only 70% done with the tail kit, I've been thinking a lot
lately about wiring. I'm about to order Bob's book, but I'm asking you
guys, the ones who've never done wiring before (except minor home repair),
what other sources, if any, do I need to buy to get a foundation on simple
schematic reading and building up from there? I don't know of any SportAir
workshops any time soon in my area (lower AL) on the subject.
Or will Bob's book start me out right?
Rob
#392
Short break between HS (61 hours) and Elevators.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: electric help |
Bob's book covers a lot of theory, as well as providing some rock solid system
diagrams and suggestions, but it doesn't really teach you the hands-on techniques.
How to use crimpers on various pins and sockets, how to solder this and
that. A lot of the fundamentals it just kind of assumes you have already. If
you need "from square one" type instruction, I suggest getting together with
somebody who has experience and tools and can show you the ropes.
Something else to consider would be to scour every bit of the articles here: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html Lots to be learned there for the uninitiated. Great stuff.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert G. Wright
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2005 3:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: electric help
All,
Even though I'm only 70% done with the tail kit, I've been thinking a lot lately
about wiring. I'm about to order Bob's book, but I'm asking you guys, the
ones who've never done wiring before (except minor home repair), what other sources,
if any, do I need to buy to get a foundation on simple schematic reading
and building up from there? I don't know of any SportAir workshops any time
soon in my area (lower AL) on the subject.
Or will Bob's book start me out right?
Rob
#392
Short break between HS (61 hours) and Elevators.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric help |
> Even though I'm only 70% done with the tail kit, I've been thinking a lot
> lately about wiring. I'm about to order Bob's book, but I'm asking you
> guys, the ones who've never done wiring before (except minor home repair),
> what other sources, if any, do I need to buy to get a foundation on simple
> schematic reading and building up from there? I don't know of any SportAir
> workshops any time soon in my area (lower AL) on the subject.
Electric Bob also holds weekend workshops that cover the same material as his book,
but can help you to see the big picture. I went to one in Camarillo when
I was building the -7A and it helped quite a bit.
When I read the book and looked at the schematics, I didn't get the Eureka effect
until I realized that every time Bob refers to a bus, what he really means
is a fuse block. Main bus = 10 position fuse block in my -7A, Essential bus =
20 position fuse block. Once you get that, the rest of it is just point to point
wiring with the correct AWG wire size.
-Dan Masys
RV7A N747DL flying
RV10 rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10 |
Hi everyone. I've recently decided to join the ranks of RV-10
builders, having ordered my tail/emp kit a week or so ago. It's due
to arrive some time next week, and I'm excited to get started.
There are a couple of airports within a 30 minute drive that I could
base the plane out of (and finish the construction at when it gets
too big for the garage). However, I would much prefer to be able to
keep the plane at home if it's at all practical - to benefit both the
construction process as well as operating the plane later when
completed. Having the plane literally just outside the door when I
want to go flying would be a huge contributor to "just because" flying.
So ideally, what I'd like to do is build a hanger at home and a grass
strip. But I have some questions. First of all, how is the RV-10
expected to be able to handle a grass strip? Secondly, what would a
"practical" runway length be for such a strip? I've read the fully
loaded specs with a 260 hp engine (which I'm planning for) to be 500
ft takeoff and 650 ft landing (and in the factory demo ride I
recently had, I can believe those numbers). But of course, that's
assuming a perfectly performing plane, hard surface, etc.
The land we own is approximately 2500 feet long, but there are
several houses adjacent to the far south end. Because of this, I
would plan on using it as a one-way runway to the north, to minimize
any disturbance to the people there (takeoffs would be away from the
houses, and landings over the houses to the strip would be at low
power). Fortunately, there are no obstructions at all towards the
north, nor are there likely to ever be - just flat field for miles,
and the prevailing winds would almost always favor a northerly
takeoff/landing anyway. To minimize the disturbance to our southern
neighbours, I was thinking of a runway about 1300 feet long at the
north end of the property, so there would be about 1200 feet between
the houses at the south end of the property and the threshold. There
is about a 0.9% gradient uphill towards the north.
Obviously, the gradient and grass strip would reduce performance from
the quoted figures, but I'm wondering what you folks out there would
consider "appropriate" from a safety standpoint. Would this work?
Also, how wide of a strip would be practical? I've landed at
countless 75 foot wide strips, but would 50 feet wide be okay? Of
course, the longer and wider the better, but I'm looking for
practical minimums here, which I would probably increase a bit anyway.
The other question pertains to our climate up here in Canada - for a
large part of the year, the ground is covered in snow. Clearing the
snow wouldn't be too much trouble - we can borrow the equipment for
that. But not having landed anything on a grass strip with a plowed
snow surface, would I just be asking for trouble? Or would it be
better to fly in the winter with skis and forget about plowing (in
that vein, could skis be outfitted to an RV-10?)
The two airports within 30 minutes are both maintained summer and
winter with asphalt runways, so I could always use them if returning
from a flight somewhere and conditions at home aren't conducive to a
safe landing. And of course, if operating an RV-10 out of a grass
strip with the limitations I've mentioned isn't practical, I may be
basing my plane out of one of those airports anyway. But since it
would be so much more convenient (and less costly) to keep everything
at home, I thought I'd write for advice on the matter.
Thanks for any help you can give!
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadain inspectors rejecting some pre-assembled parts? |
I don't know much more than my 1st post and keep in mind this is 3rd
hand news. My inspector was not sure if it was the spars or other
riveting on fast build wings that was the issue during the pre-close
inspections. I'll be following this up when I get home next week and
report what ever I learn but with some luck the guys that had the
problem are on the list and will set the story straight.
The other thing I plan to do is get out my calipers and be sure the
tails of the spar rivets are driven enough to meet *MIL-R-47196A *
(found a copy at: <http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm>)*
*Perry Casson
Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
>
>
> Perry this is of serious concern...do you have any more details as I
> would like to follow it up at Vans.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | tail cone questions |
Hi, guys
I'm a the point of put the VS togheter,and have two problems (this questions is
for the builders allready finish the empennage ,and may be help the begginers).
when try to fit the skin at VS the leading edge do not close at the nose rib part,due
to the nose rib is whider then the leading edge ,need a small fluting where
the machine hole is at front?.do I start from the LE back or from back to
LE.
second, at page 6-2- fig 2- step 6, say ,machine countersink all #30 holes below
upper attach bolt holes,but in page 6-4 fig4-step 7 say leave open the upper
bottom rudder hinge bracket for later made a #12 hole,due I have to countersink
these two holes?
sorry for the stupid questions ,at this early stages of constuction I try to understand
the general idea.
Hugo #40456
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tail cone questions |
This question has come up many times before. What you really DON'T
want to do is try to force the ribs tighter into the leading edge.
You WILL cause an outward dent if you do that. I don't remember
if you will need any fluting, but I don't think so. What you want
to do is take maybe 1/8" or maybe more (leave yourself enough
rivet hole edge clearance on that first tab), and remove a bit of
the nose rib. Many builders who I've talked to online and at OSH
have admitted that they too are a victim of this problem.
That should answer the first part of your questions. As for the rest
regarding the conutersinking, perhaps another person who is more
recently done with the tailcone could jump in and give some good
info on that...I'm a bit rusty on the tailcone. As far as I remember,
there aren't too many gotchas on the tailcone, and if you just do
everything per plans, only riveting the called out areas, and only
countersinking the called out areas, you should come out just
great. The nose rib not fitting in the front skin is one of
the exceptions.
Good luck Hugo....keep it going! Glad to hear you're coming along
with your kit.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> Hi, guys I'm a the point of put the VS togheter,and have two problems
> (this questions is for the builders allready finish the empennage
> ,and may be help the begginers). when try to fit the skin at VS the
> leading edge do not close at the nose rib part,due to the nose rib is
> whider then the leading edge ,need a small fluting where the machine
> hole is at front?.do I start from the LE back or from back to LE.
> second, at page 6-2- fig 2- step 6, say ,machine countersink all #30
> holes below upper attach bolt holes,but in page 6-4 fig4-step 7 say
> leave open the upper bottom rudder hinge bracket for later made a #12
> hole,due I have to countersink these two holes? sorry for the stupid
> questions ,at this early stages of constuction I try to understand
> the general idea. Hugo #40456
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tail cone questions |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
If you look forward in the instructions for the HS, they tell you to
trim/ reduce the nose rib on the leading edge so it will fit better.
Read how they tell you to do it, and do it for the VS, you will be one
of the few us that do not have the ridges in their VS skin.
For your second question, I held off, because I looked at the attach
sequence and it shows you putting bolts there, but if you do need to
ctsk them later you can still get to them if needed.
Dan
40269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RV10-List: tail cone questions
Hi, guys
I'm a the point of put the VS togheter,and have two problems (this
questions is for the builders allready finish the empennage ,and may be
help the begginers).
when try to fit the skin at VS the leading edge do not close at the nose
rib part,due to the nose rib is whider then the leading edge ,need a
small fluting where the machine hole is at front?.do I start from the LE
back or from back to LE.
second, at page 6-2- fig 2- step 6, say ,machine countersink all #30
holes below upper attach bolt holes,but in page 6-4 fig4-step 7 say
leave open the upper bottom rudder hinge bracket for later made a #12
hole,due I have to countersink these two holes?
sorry for the stupid questions ,at this early stages of constuction I
try to understand the general idea.
Hugo #40456
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric help |
Go to William Curits's site, he has a nice wiring diagram, link to it off Tim Olsons site www.myrv10.com, I beleive he has so good wiring info there as well.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadain inspectors rejecting some pre-assembled parts? |
Thanks Perry we need to follow his sor of stuff up as if Vans does not know
he cant fix it.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Perry Casson" <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canadain inspectors rejecting some pre-assembled
parts?
>
> I don't know much more than my 1st post and keep in mind this is 3rd hand
> news. My inspector was not sure if it was the spars or other riveting on
> fast build wings that was the issue during the pre-close inspections.
> I'll be following this up when I get home next week and report what ever I
> learn but with some luck the guys that had the problem are on the list and
> will set the story straight.
>
> The other thing I plan to do is get out my calipers and be sure the tails
> of the spar rivets are driven enough to meet *MIL-R-47196A * (found a copy
> at: <http://home.flash.net/~gila/rivet_spec/rivet_a.htm>)*
>
> *Perry Casson
>
>
> Chris , Susie McGough wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Perry this is of serious concern...do you have any more details as I
>> would like to follow it up at Vans.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Friggin tank ribs |
Michael,
I wouldn't try bending things just yet. Flute the ribs and cleco them in
place starting with the noses first and working back to the trailing edge. Put
one rib in, couple of clecos on the nose, next rib couple of clecos on the nose
ect. then come back and add a few toward the trailing edge of each rib. Do
this with the skins spread out and the ribs will pull the skins in as you go.
Eventually they will slide into the cradles. After drilling and dimpling they
go back together much easier, ( or at least somewhat easier ). If you try
bending things now you'll add to your problems IMHO. Yes, they all fit that
way as far as I know...
John Hasbrouck
#40264 Tanks Done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | tail cone thanks |
Thanks a lot to all .
The skin is in position,now I have to learn countersink and dimple,I was reading
Van use to put some discards in the kits for practising,not in mine.
Another stupid question ,how you prevent scratches when use the microstop countersink
tool,the chips you create scratch the surfece around the hole.
Thanks .
Ps.I have to apoligeze,this internet group it is really more valuable then what
I thinks before recive the kit.
Hugo
another Ps.how you made a round hole in the thin materials,I made beatifuls triangles
with a round bit,I must to be good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tail cone thanks |
>Van use to put some discards in the kits for practising,not in mine.
Its the stack labeled "Trim pack". It looks too nice to cut up though :)
>Another stupid question ,how you prevent scratches when use the microstop countersink
tool,the chips you create scratch the surfece around the hole.
Thanks .
After you do one hole, brush the chips off and then move to the next one.
>Ps.how you made a round hole in the thin materials,I made beatifuls triangles
with a round bit,I must to be good.
I had received a tip on this one; You need to use a SLOW drill. What you want to
do is shave the material away. Too fast and the bit chatters, resulting in what
you describe.
-Jim 40384, Riveting Tailcone tonight
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>Thanks a lot to all .
>The skin is in position,now I have to learn countersink and dimple,I was reading
Van use to put some discards in the kits for practising,not in mine.
>Another stupid question ,how you prevent scratches when use the microstop countersink
tool,the chips you create scratch the surfece around the hole.
>Thanks .
>Ps.I have to apoligeze,this internet group it is really more valuable then what
I thinks before recive the kit.
>Hugo
>another Ps.how you made a round hole in the thin materials,I made beatifuls triangles
with a round bit,I must to be good.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: tail cone thanks |
If you're using the single hole countersink bits, they tend to leave
more and deeper marks (at least mine do). I prefer the 3 flute model.
Either way, you're going to get a few scratches.
PJ
40032
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>Thanks a lot to all .
>The skin is in position,now I have to learn countersink and dimple,I was reading
Van use to put some discards in the kits for practising,not in mine.
>Another stupid question ,how you prevent scratches when use the microstop countersink
tool,the chips you create scratch the surfece around the hole.
>Thanks .
>Ps.I have to apoligeze,this internet group it is really more valuable then what
I thinks before recive the kit.
>Hugo
>another Ps.how you made a round hole in the thin materials,I made beatifuls triangles
with a round bit,I must to be good.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10 |
Having flown a 150hp CS RV-6A, and having flown Van's RV-10 demo I would
recommend thinking about a minimum of 2000 foot strip for safety purposes.
That is not to say that you couldn't get in or our of a 1000 foot strip,
just that for day in and day out operations this 1400 + hour pilot wouldn't
recommend it.
In addition, for the initial fly off hours I would NEVER consider even a
2000 foot strip. The bigger the better, with cross runways as well.
I would recommend that you build in your garage, move to a big airport for
final assembly and fly off. If after that you want to risk a 1300 foot
strip you would have a lot better feel for both the -10 and your abilities.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Charrois" <danlist(at)syz.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10
>
> Hi everyone. I've recently decided to join the ranks of RV-10 builders,
> having ordered my tail/emp kit a week or so ago. It's due to arrive some
> time next week, and I'm excited to get started.
>
> There are a couple of airports within a 30 minute drive that I could base
> the plane out of (and finish the construction at when it gets too big for
> the garage). However, I would much prefer to be able to keep the plane
> at home if it's at all practical - to benefit both the construction
> process as well as operating the plane later when completed. Having the
> plane literally just outside the door when I want to go flying would be a
> huge contributor to "just because" flying.
>
> So ideally, what I'd like to do is build a hanger at home and a grass
> strip. But I have some questions. First of all, how is the RV-10
> expected to be able to handle a grass strip? Secondly, what would a
> "practical" runway length be for such a strip? I've read the fully
> loaded specs with a 260 hp engine (which I'm planning for) to be 500 ft
> takeoff and 650 ft landing (and in the factory demo ride I recently had,
> I can believe those numbers). But of course, that's assuming a perfectly
> performing plane, hard surface, etc.
>
> The land we own is approximately 2500 feet long, but there are several
> houses adjacent to the far south end. Because of this, I would plan on
> using it as a one-way runway to the north, to minimize any disturbance to
> the people there (takeoffs would be away from the houses, and landings
> over the houses to the strip would be at low power). Fortunately, there
> are no obstructions at all towards the north, nor are there likely to
> ever be - just flat field for miles, and the prevailing winds would
> almost always favor a northerly takeoff/landing anyway. To minimize the
> disturbance to our southern neighbours, I was thinking of a runway about
> 1300 feet long at the north end of the property, so there would be about
> 1200 feet between the houses at the south end of the property and the
> threshold. There is about a 0.9% gradient uphill towards the north.
>
> Obviously, the gradient and grass strip would reduce performance from the
> quoted figures, but I'm wondering what you folks out there would consider
> "appropriate" from a safety standpoint. Would this work? Also, how wide
> of a strip would be practical? I've landed at countless 75 foot wide
> strips, but would 50 feet wide be okay? Of course, the longer and wider
> the better, but I'm looking for practical minimums here, which I would
> probably increase a bit anyway.
>
> The other question pertains to our climate up here in Canada - for a
> large part of the year, the ground is covered in snow. Clearing the snow
> wouldn't be too much trouble - we can borrow the equipment for that. But
> not having landed anything on a grass strip with a plowed snow surface,
> would I just be asking for trouble? Or would it be better to fly in the
> winter with skis and forget about plowing (in that vein, could skis be
> outfitted to an RV-10?)
>
> The two airports within 30 minutes are both maintained summer and winter
> with asphalt runways, so I could always use them if returning from a
> flight somewhere and conditions at home aren't conducive to a safe
> landing. And of course, if operating an RV-10 out of a grass strip with
> the limitations I've mentioned isn't practical, I may be basing my plane
> out of one of those airports anyway. But since it would be so much more
> convenient (and less costly) to keep everything at home, I thought I'd
> write for advice on the matter.
>
> Thanks for any help you can give!
>
> Dan
> --
> Syzygy Research & Technology
> Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Friggin tank ribs |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
John,
Thanks for the reply. I did all of the below on the left tank and I still needed
to literally use a dead blow to get them to line up. I looked at my inventory
pictures and noticed that the tank skins were sitting inside the regular
LE skins and had a considerable amount of space between them and the LE's. I.e.
more of a bend. That really doesn't make sense as the geometry should be
the same.
For the right tank skin I just took two 8ft 2x4's and clamped the skin in place
right behind the LE with one. I took the other 2x4 and gently bent the skin
back closer to a 90 but something like a 75 to 80. When I then proceeded to
put the ribs in place they all lined up perfectly. No expletives, no hammers,
no persuading, all the holes were right where they were supposed to be. Worked
great! Took me all of about 20 minutes to cleco all of the right tank ribs
in place where it took me 2 hours to do the left. I put a cleco in the first
and third hole on all the ribs and dropped it in the cradle, the skin sucked
up to the ribs no problem.
I'm sure everyone had a problem fitting their ribs but mine was excessive. I
had ribs distorting and starting to bend trying to get them lined up. Everything
pointed to the firs 2 inches of the ribs being squeezed to much into the
space. Looks like that was it.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Friggin Tanks :-)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Friggin tank ribs
Michael,
I wouldn't try bending things just yet. Flute the ribs and cleco them in
place starting with the noses first and working back to the trailing edge. Put
one rib in, couple of clecos on the nose, next rib couple of clecos on the nose
ect. then come back and add a few toward the trailing edge of each rib. Do
this with the skins spread out and the ribs will pull the skins in as you go.
Eventually they will slide into the cradles. After drilling and dimpling they
go back together much easier, ( or at least somewhat easier ). If you try
bending things now you'll add to your problems IMHO. Yes, they all fit that
way as far as I know...
John Hasbrouck
#40264 Tanks Done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Friggin tank ribs |
Michael,
Great save! That's the 51% they talk about. Even though we're building the
same kit it should be understood that Van's can make a mistake from time to
time. Looks like you solved the problem. BTW while we're on the subject of mistakes,
I had a problem with the W-1013C-L aileron bracket. It was not manufactured
right. A fellow builder in the area had the same problem. We received
our wings about mid May. Van's sent us replacements.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Cowling Trim question |
Is there someone who's done the front cowling who can answer a quick
question?
I'm about to trim it. The directions aren't bad, but a little
vague. You center the spinner in the hole for the cowling top.
Does the spinner face slope smoothly into that ridge in the cowl,
so they should be level and flow together, or is the cowling
supposed to be raised up at all above the spinner height?
On my Sundowner, the cowl is about 1/2" taller than the spinner
is, but that's a whole different plane. It can seem logically
centered either way...flush, or the cowl circle about 1/4" outside
of the spinner. The reason is, the area with the 3 screws on each
side sticks out a bit more, so it makes it look like it could
possibly not be flush.
2nd question: The cowl as supplied must not overlap the top and
bottom surfaces, huh? When they're put together, it looks as
if it's going to end up with the top half and bottom half
butting up against eachother along the side of the cowl. I suppose
that's expected since it's a hinge joint.....duh. Oh well,
I guess we're all allowed a few stupid questions.
Tip of the day: When drilling those UHMW blocks that the door
lock pins go through....the ones that mount to the outside of
the doorframe, not to the door... If you follow the directions
and shim the block up on the side they say to do, you will be
drilling the 3.4 degree offset hole so that it slopes in the WRONG
direction to do what you need it to do. Also, if you follow the
drawing and centerpunch for the 2 small holes on the side they
show to punch, you'll end up with a part that doesn't work because
of this slope. Read the directions, look at the pictures, then
test the concept on the door and you'll see what I mean. Just
try to remember this issue before you get to this point.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Cowling Trim question |
Tim,
I may not have the question right, but when I installed the cowling on my
RV-6 the plans had me intentionally set the cowling slightly lower that the
spinner(1/4", maybe more???????) to allow for the engine mounts to settle.
I suspect that is why your Sundowner cowl is taller, the engine has settled
more that what the manufacture allowed for (not that you have a problem with
the Sundowner though, this is normal).
Hopefully someone who has done this with the RV-10 will give you a solid
answer, I'm rapidly approaching the cowling part, but not there yet.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Cowling Trim question
Is there someone who's done the front cowling who can answer a quick
question?
I'm about to trim it. The directions aren't bad, but a little
vague. You center the spinner in the hole for the cowling top.
Does the spinner face slope smoothly into that ridge in the cowl,
so they should be level and flow together, or is the cowling
supposed to be raised up at all above the spinner height?
On my Sundowner, the cowl is about 1/2" taller than the spinner
is, but that's a whole different plane. It can seem logically
centered either way...flush, or the cowl circle about 1/4" outside
of the spinner. The reason is, the area with the 3 screws on each
side sticks out a bit more, so it makes it look like it could
possibly not be flush.
2nd question: The cowl as supplied must not overlap the top and
bottom surfaces, huh? When they're put together, it looks as
if it's going to end up with the top half and bottom half
butting up against eachother along the side of the cowl. I suppose
that's expected since it's a hinge joint.....duh. Oh well,
I guess we're all allowed a few stupid questions.
Tip of the day: When drilling those UHMW blocks that the door
lock pins go through....the ones that mount to the outside of
the doorframe, not to the door... If you follow the directions
and shim the block up on the side they say to do, you will be
drilling the 3.4 degree offset hole so that it slopes in the WRONG
direction to do what you need it to do. Also, if you follow the
drawing and centerpunch for the 2 small holes on the side they
show to punch, you'll end up with a part that doesn't work because
of this slope. Read the directions, look at the pictures, then
test the concept on the door and you'll see what I mean. Just
try to remember this issue before you get to this point.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Current project: Cowling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
About how much wire will really be used? It doesn't seem that expensive at
around $15 for 100' of 18 AWG. Other sizes of wire will be priced
differently, but using this as an indicator seems good. I just don't want a
whole bunch of wire hanging around afterward, and I do plan on wiring one or
two extra empty lengths per bundle.
Rob
Checked the archives, but missed it if it's there
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456 |
Listers,
I'm overhauling an elderly IO-540-C4B5 for my RV-10. I have 4 engine
mount brackets, Lycoming part number 72306 (Piper Aztec compatible, I
believe). I'm looking for an economical source for the 4 brackets that
Van's engine mount expects, Lycoming part number 70456.
Does anybody know of a supplier who'd be interested in some sort of
exchange?
Thanks,
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456 |
Hi,
try some of the airboat specialists.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 engine mounts needed - part number 70456
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm overhauling an elderly IO-540-C4B5 for my RV-10. I have 4 engine
> mount brackets, Lycoming part number 72306 (Piper Aztec compatible, I
> believe). I'm looking for an economical source for the 4 brackets that
> Van's engine mount expects, Lycoming part number 70456.
>
> Does anybody know of a supplier who'd be interested in some sort of
> exchange?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
> RV-10 #40059 under construction
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
For those who bought heated pitots from Gretz, how much were they? I've
tried to contact them by e-mail but haven't received any response. Wanted a
price and ordering info. Thanks
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
Quick question please....I'm almost ready to start dimpling and priming the
elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is very near the
trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin. There doesn't seem to
be anything under it, so I'm confused by this. Has anyone else seen this?
What should I do? Just dimple it and fill with a flush rivet?
Sorry if this in the archives, couldn't find it.
Thanks,
Sean Blair
N967SB(reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Elevator question |
Got a picture?
I've just finished my elevators a few weeks ago, and after taking
another look at them I still can't figure out what you're referring to.
A picture's worth a thousand words.....
-Jim 40384, Riveting Tailcone
Sean Blair wrote:
> Quick question please.Im almost ready to start dimpling and
> priming the elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is
> very near the trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin.
> There doesnt seem to be anything under it, so Im confused by this.
> Has anyone else seen this? What should I do? Just dimple it and fill
> with a flush rivet?
>
> Sorry if this in the archives, couldnt find it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB(reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum practical runway length for an RV-10 |
Thanks for the wonderful responses I received about my posting for
the minimum practical runway length for an RV-10.
One thing I forgot to mention in my posting was our elevation. We're
not terribly high, but not at sea level either - at about 2300 feet
ASL. From the advice I've been given, coupled with the altitude,
I've come to the conclusion that for safety's sake, I will either:
- need to find land in the area I can lease that will give me at
least 3000 feet of distance (maybe even more), especially during the
testing phases
- rent some hanger space in one of the nearest airports to finish up
construction of the plane and do flight testing at. This would
without doubt be the safest option.
Then, once everything is done and I'm comfortable with the plane, I
can test things on existing long grass strips to see if a strip on
our land is feasible and comfortable or just asking for trouble.
It's not anywhere near as convenient as just being able to use the
land we already have, but I'd rather trade off safety for
convenience :-)
Dan
--
Syzygy Research & Technology
Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
Phone: 780-961-2213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
Sorry Jim, no picture with me. This extra hole is within an inch or two
forward of the rivet line where you Pro Seal the trailing edge. It shows up
on the top skins only for both the left and right skins.
Next time I'm at the hangar I'll get a picture of this if needed.
Thanks for taking a look.
Sean B.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
Got a picture?
I've just finished my elevators a few weeks ago, and after taking
another look at them I still can't figure out what you're referring to.
A picture's worth a thousand words.....
-Jim 40384, Riveting Tailcone
Sean Blair wrote:
> Quick question please....I'm almost ready to start dimpling and
> priming the elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is
> very near the trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin.
> There doesn't seem to be anything under it, so I'm confused by this.
> Has anyone else seen this? What should I do? Just dimple it and fill
> with a flush rivet?
>
> Sorry if this in the archives, couldn't find it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB(reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Elevator question |
You're not refering to one of the holes on the tab you bend down/up
right next to where the trim tab attaches, are you? Those are the only
holes I could find on my elevators that kinda matches your description.
If so, once you bend the tabs from the top and bottom together, a pop
rivet goes through to hold the two together. (Forms the verticle edge
between the elevator proper and the trim tab) If that's not it, I am out
of ideas...
John
#40208 Wings
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
Sorry Jim, no picture with me. This extra hole is within an inch or two
forward of the rivet line where you Pro Seal the trailing edge. It
shows up on the top skins only for both the left and right skins.
Next time I'm at the hangar I'll get a picture of this if needed.
Thanks for taking a look.
Sean B.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FW: Elevator question
Got a picture?
I've just finished my elevators a few weeks ago, and after taking
another look at them I still can't figure out what you're referring to.
A picture's worth a thousand words.....
-Jim 40384, Riveting Tailcone
Sean Blair wrote:
> Quick question please....I'm almost ready to start dimpling and
> priming the elevator skins and noticed an extra hole (3/32) that is
> very near the trailing edge in the top of the left and right skin.
> There doesn't seem to be anything under it, so I'm confused by this.
> Has anyone else seen this? What should I do? Just dimple it and fill
> with a flush rivet?
>
> Sorry if this in the archives, couldn't find it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair
>
> N967SB(reserved)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Friggin tank ribs |
John
What was wrong with your aileron bracket
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on ailerons
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Friggin tank ribs
Michael,
Great save! That's the 51% they talk about. Even though we're building
the same kit it should be understood that Van's can make a mistake from time
to time. Looks like you solved the problem. BTW while we're on the subject
of mistakes, I had a problem with the W-1013C-L aileron bracket. It was not
manufactured right. A fellow builder in the area had the same problem. We
received our wings about mid May. Van's sent us replacements.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans |
Oooops, too late for that. It might be gone Friday for good.
I'm not tooooo frustrated over the plans, because they are probably
the best part about the kit. I was just surprised that with a
change done practically at the beginning of shipping that kit,
they still delivered all of their kits with a known revision
missing. The comment is mainly directed towards new builders...
be diligent, and assume you do not have the latest plans, and check
their site for all revisions....because you probably actually
do not have the latest plans, even if you're a guy just
starting his tailcone kit today.
I would have assumed differently, so I'm just hoping to save
some frustration to the 300+ people who are building after me.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> I agree Tim! I think you would be better off without all the aggravation
> having to deal with all of this. I'll make you a deal. I'll buy your kit
> and those junk plans, pay you for all of the extra freight charges you
> encountered. You can go fly the beloved Sundowner and no longer have to
> deal with the frustration. I call you next year when I am 3 hours out
> from Oshkosh and give you a head start so we can land at the same time.
>
> Get back to building! Say hi to the family. Randy
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 8:39 PM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans
>
>
> A note about revisions: You cannot trust the plans that come with your
> kit, so verify your plans revisions!!! I bought my FWF kit on
> 5/25/2005. My plans on page FF1-4 were dated something like 1/26/2005.
> One of the recent parts that I thought I was missing has turned up...
>
> I had almost called to complain to Van's about a missing fitting, but as
>
> it turned out, the plans had changed on 2/22/05, and now that fitting
> was no longer required. Don't ask me why when I purchased plans on
> 5/25, 3 months after the revision, they didn't send me a complete set of
>
> plans with the revision in them. This to me is another spectacular
> example of where customer service should absolutely be improved. In
> addition, it would be no major deal for any organized company to send
> out email notices to their RV-10 builders to notify them of plans
> changes.....but I suppose why bother, from what it appears, usually when
>
> they have problems with the plans or parts, they thend to just ignore
> the people who call and tell them anyway.
>
> I'm not trying to beat them up, but I'd think that when someone
> puts down over $40,000 with a company, they'd send them with current
> set of plans, or at least send the revision along with them.
> That said, I do check their site periodically for updates, and I
> had downloaded and printed them all. At the time, I hadn't even
> received the FWF kit plans, so the paper was still stuffed with my
> finishing kit plans, so it got overlooked. I guess I assumed that
> when you buy a kit, you're receiving the latest and greatest plans.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Friggin tank ribs |
John,
The recess for the bearing was of about 1/32 so that when you put the three
peices together after the bearing was in place, the rivet holes would not line
back up. This after having match drilled the three pieces without the bearing
in place as per the plans. The new one that Van's sent went together perfectly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | vent eyeball placement |
Hi Tim:
I Don't have my panel at this point , so i can't glu the vent in place till i get
it back , i did buy the vent and some hose in anticapation of haveing a small
problem in where to put the black eyeball , i am including 2 pic from the
Idaho -10 that stoped into Auburn 3 weeks ago , hope this helps .
Waiting for the engine , should be here this week !
Brian Bollaert
#40200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
Hi all,
Just a quick note that I flew N325HP last Thursday! WOW, flew hands off.
Stable but when commanded to turn it turns and stays there, can't wait to
shoot and ILS. The most impressive part was the noise level in the cockpit.
I had to remove one ear cup to here the engine on take off, other than that
just a purr of the engine and wind flowing over the airframe. I sound
deadened it and have a performance aero engine, 325 horse power and on the
front of that a Catto three blade prop. Supper smooth and fast is all I can
say at this time will get some real numbers in a few weeks. For those of
you building keep on it is worth it
Noel Simmons
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
For flying RV10s, anybody experiencing RFI/EMI in the electric trim
unshieled or Autopilot unshielded harnesses???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gengrumpy(at)aol.com |
Noel,
What did you use for sound deadening and where all did you install it? How many
pounds of it?
Thanks - John #40404
-----Original Message-----
From: Noel & Yoshie Simmons <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RV10-List: N325HP
Hi all,
Just a quick note that I flew N325HP last Thursday! WOW, flew hands off. Stable
but when commanded to turn it turns and stays there, can?t wait to shoot and
ILS. The most impressive part was the noise level in the cockpit. I had to
remove one ear cup to here the engine on take off, other than that just a purr
of the engine and wind flowing over the airframe. I sound deadened it and
have a performance aero engine, 325 horse power and on the front of that a Catto
three blade prop. Supper smooth and fast is all I can say at this time will
get some real numbers in a few weeks. For those of you building keep on it
is worth it
Noel Simmons
www.blueskyaviation.net
Attached Image: DSCF3333.JPG
[Image removed]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Noel,
Congrats! She's a good looking ship. Can't wait to see the numbers with that
325 and catto prop.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie Simmons
Subject: RV10-List: N325HP
Hi all,
Just a quick note that I flew N325HP last Thursday! WOW, flew hands off. Stable
but when commanded to turn it turns and stays there, can't wait to shoot and
ILS. The most impressive part was the noise level in the cockpit. I had to
remove one ear cup to here the engine on take off, other than that just a purr
of the engine and wind flowing over the airframe. I sound deadened it and
have a performance aero engine, 325 horse power and on the front of that a Catto
three blade prop. Supper smooth and fast is all I can say at this time will
get some real numbers in a few weeks. For those of you building keep on it
is worth it
Noel Simmons
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
Beautiful plane! Congratulations.
325 HP ! How did this happen? What type engine? What was the weight?
John Jessen
(#40328 HS)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Noel & Yoshie
Simmons
Subject: RV10-List: N325HP
Hi all,
Just a quick note that I flew N325HP last Thursday! WOW, flew hands off.
Stable but when commanded to turn it turns and stays there, can't wait to
shoot and ILS. The most impressive part was the noise level in the cockpit.
I had to remove one ear cup to here the engine on take off, other than that
just a purr of the engine and wind flowing over the airframe. I sound
deadened it and have a performance aero engine, 325 horse power and on the
front of that a Catto three blade prop. Supper smooth and fast is all I can
say at this time will get some real numbers in a few weeks. For those of
you building keep on it is worth it
Noel Simmons
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brandon Yost" <bryostdc(at)hotmail.com> |
Did you do any airframe mods to allow mounting of more horsepower?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Dear Listers,
I will be taking the Matronics Web Server down for a few hours today,
Tuesday September 6 2005 for a chassis upgrade. Archive browsing and
searching along with subscription services will be unavailable for
be processed normally during the upgrade. Please check the Matronics
System Status Page for updates (although this page resides on the web
server and won't be available during the upgrade):
http://www.matronics.com/SystemStatus/
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
At a picnic in Redmond, Or this weekend, one pilot reported extraneous
hits on his L3 scope which were only attributed to possible EMI from his
STec trim servos. FYI
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: RFI/EMI
For flying RV10s, anybody experiencing RFI/EMI in the electric trim
unshieled or Autopilot unshielded harnesses???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian" <av8er(at)bellsouth.net> |
Congrats on a beautiful project.
"Three bladed props for the 540 engines will run from $1850 up to $2350."
Got that from cattoprops.com...now that definitely warrants some performance numbers!
----- Original Message -----
From: Noel & Yoshie Simmons
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2005 11:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: N325HP
Hi all,
Just a quick note that I flew N325HP last Thursday! WOW, flew hands off. Stable
but when commanded to turn it turns and stays there, can't wait to shoot
and ILS. The most impressive part was the noise level in the cockpit. I had
to remove one ear cup to here the engine on take off, other than that just a
purr of the engine and wind flowing over the airframe. I sound deadened it
and have a performance aero engine, 325 horse power and on the front of that a
Catto three blade prop. Supper smooth and fast is all I can say at this time
will get some real numbers in a few weeks. For those of you building keep on
it is worth it
Noel Simmons
www.blueskyaviation.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Just finishing off the flaps and installing the -319 pop rivets. I have the stanley
swivel head puller from Avery, but find it won't quite fit against the hinge
assemblies on the flap bottom, so the rivets do not go in straight. Any
hints? I am reluctant to grind the side off my rivet puller . . .
cheers,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap rivetting |
That's exactly what I did. Grind flat the face of the puller head. If
you don't want to do it to your nice puller, go get a cheap one from
somewhere and grind that one flat.
-Sean #40303
McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> G'day all,
>
> Just finishing off the flaps and installing the -319 pop rivets. I
> have the stanley swivel head puller from Avery, but find it won't
> quite fit against the hinge assemblies on the flap bottom, so the
> rivets do not go in straight. Any hints? I am reluctant to grind the
> side off my rivet puller . . .
>
> cheers,
> Ron
>
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Static Wicks--need suggestions |
I purchased my tail kit from a previous builder. The Rudder/VS were done. He
put a static wick on the top of the rudder. I am wondering if this is necessary.
I'm to the point of construction on the elevators that I either need to install
static wicks on them or I will fill the holes on the rudder and just not
have wicks at all.
To my knowledge, nobody has put them on any finished -10's yet, right??? If somebody
has that I have overlooked, how many did you use? Is one on each control
surface enough (ie. one on rudder, one on each elevator, ailerons, etc...)???
Does anybody have any remarks/comments on why I should use/not use the static wicks.
From previous conversations, and from listening to people talk about todays technology
in shielded cables and built in circuitry protection from static electricity,
I think I may just fill the holes on the rudder and not have the wicks
at all.
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static Wicks--need suggestions |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Static wicks are a black art. There is no doubt they can help with a discharge
problem (insert joke here) but if you don't get them in the right place they
will only add drag. The only options are to sprinkle them liberally on the
airframe making sure you have bonding straps on all moveable surfaces or wait
until you actually experience the problem and then deal with it. I'll opt for
the second.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Static Wicks--need suggestions
I purchased my tail kit from a previous builder. The Rudder/VS were done. He
put a static wick on the top of the rudder. I am wondering if this is necessary.
I'm to the point of construction on the elevators that I either need to install
static wicks on them or I will fill the holes on the rudder and just not
have wicks at all.
To my knowledge, nobody has put them on any finished -10's yet, right??? If somebody
has that I have overlooked, how many did you use? Is one on each control
surface enough (ie. one on rudder, one on each elevator, ailerons, etc...)???
Does anybody have any remarks/comments on why I should use/not use the static wicks.
From previous conversations, and from listening to people talk about todays technology
in shielded cables and built in circuitry protection from static electricity,
I think I may just fill the holes on the rudder and not have the wicks
at all.
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks--need suggestionsStatic Wicks--need suggestions |
Precipitation static is most commonly found in precipitation (duh) near
the freezing level. P-static affects most low frequency radios, such as
ADFs.
However, any number of glass ships have encountered P-static so severe
as to affect VHF radios and to apply strong shocks to occupants.
VFR only? Probably don't need 'em. IFR? Go check out what factory built
ships do, including grounding straps between control surfaces and
airframe.
Ed Wischmeyer
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Static Wicks--need suggestions |
I have decided to see it I have a problem and then fix it. I have had a
static problem in a 182 before and I am concerned but not enough to mod the
airplane without any testing.
T. Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
80% wings
10% fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static Wicks--need suggestions
Static wicks are a black art. There is no doubt they can help with a
discharge problem (insert joke here) but if you don't get them in the right
place they will only add drag. The only options are to sprinkle them
liberally on the airframe making sure you have bonding straps on all
moveable surfaces or wait until you actually experience the problem and then
deal with it. I'll opt for the second.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Static Wicks--need suggestions
I purchased my tail kit from a previous builder. The Rudder/VS were done.
He put a static wick on the top of the rudder. I am wondering if this is
necessary. I'm to the point of construction on the elevators that I either
need to install static wicks on them or I will fill the holes on the rudder
and just not have wicks at all.
To my knowledge, nobody has put them on any finished -10's yet, right??? If
somebody has that I have overlooked, how many did you use? Is one on each
control surface enough (ie. one on rudder, one on each elevator, ailerons,
etc...)???
Does anybody have any remarks/comments on why I should use/not use the
static wicks.
From previous conversations, and from listening to people talk about todays
technology in shielded cables and built in circuitry protection from static
electricity, I think I may just fill the holes on the rudder and not have
the wicks at all.
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Firewall Recess Box F1001K |
It seems that the F1001K recess box that attaches on to the firewall is a mirror
image of what is shown on the plans. Has anyone had this same problem?
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I have installed 6/32 nutplates on the two top to stiffeners of the rudder (left
side), and will also place them on the elevators, when I get to that point,
for later installation of static wicks (latest Cessna type), if they turn out
to be needed. EQUALLY IMPORTANT is the installation of nutplates in lieu of the
rivets above the hinges on the rudder bearing doublers, that will allow for
the installation of braided grounding straps on each bearing bolt, which allows
for high current flows around the bearings, instead of thru them, which can
cause WELDED bearings on your primary control surfaces!
Chris Hukill
starting the elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks |
Look on Tim's website. Static wick manufacturer's (Dayton Granger)
recommendation for the RV-10 airframe has been posted there. No need to
wonder or flounder...
John Kirkland
#40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
These locations are untested and again don't mean anything unless you can actually
map your airframe resistance and the most likely locations for build up
and a path for discharge (not likely). Putting them on in those locations in the
diagram may or may not help. Not trying to tell people to not do it but I
do want them to understand that it may not do squat and the chance of the wicks
contributing to control surface flutter is increased.
It's one of those things where if you put them on and don't ever have P static
problems they must be working. Good work, you got that pink elephant. P-static
does exist and it may cause problems but putting static wicks on without
any type of testing against your airframe may or may not help. Also, the likeliness
of a static arc welding a bearing is extreeemly remote and would take a
jolt on the order of a lightning bolt. The main job of bonding straps is to
get the charge over to the wicks.
This subject was broached back on the old Yahoo list and Paul Besing pinged Bob
Knuckolls on the subject, here was his response:
Static wicks have nothing to do with radio quality or reliability.
EVERY time dissimilar materials slide across each other, there is
a tendency for one material with a stronger affinity for electrons
than the other to acquire a negative charge. Common manifestations
include sparks that jump between fingertip and doorknob after
walking across carpet. In the winter especially, I have to remind
myself to keep part of my body touching the frame of my 1" vertical
belt stander while sculpting a piece of metal . . .
the Van DeGraff
like nature of the belt sander will charge the ol'
bod with a
significant kick if I don't bleed it off during the sanding operations.
Precipitation static is unique to airborne particles sliding past
any conductor. Radio receivers can be severely affected by dust
storms usually associated with high winds. I used to work with
an amateur radio repeater installation 1200 feet up on KTVH-TV
in Hutchinson, KS. A blowing snow storm would severely de-sense
our receivers.
Airplanes have unique problems in that they generate their
own wind. Airplanes flying through dust, rain or snow can
pick up significant charges. When the charge reaches sufficient
magnitude, it begins to form coronas at the sharp (usually
trailing edges) of wings and flight control surfaces.
The static wick is a sharp-ended conductor (enhances tendency
for charge to concentrate and form corona) connected to the
airframe through some nominal but rather high resistance. The
idea is to put sufficient static wicks in the right places
so that they force lots of small, low current discharges to form
and dissipate the energy at much lower (read less
noisy)
levels than if the wicks were not present.
The faster the airplane flies, the more likely it is to
experience the effects of p-static. Further, the finish
and skin materials have an influence on tendency to build
and concentrate static charges. These effects are present
and potentially troublesome irrespective of the vintage
of radios carried aboard the airplane.
VHF radios are less susceptible than HF or ADF
receivers. Grounded antennas are quieter than isolated
antennas. There are some modern digital signal processing
techniques that can reduce the audible effects of
p-static but ultimately, locally generated static noises
will overwhelm a receiver looking for weaker signals.
The number, style and placement of static wicks on
our bizjets is as much an art as a science. We spent
a great deal of $time$ selecting the right products
and installations. Further, there's a comprehensive
incoming inspection of static wicks . . . seems that
a performance of a static wick is very sensitive to
production variability.
If your airplane suffers from the effects of p-static,
it may take a lot of effort over a long period of time
to deduce the optimum solution.
Bob . . .
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Static Wicks
-->
Look on Tim's website. Static wick manufacturer's (Dayton Granger) recommendation
for the RV-10 airframe has been posted there. No need to wonder or flounder...
John Kirkland
#40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
Do you have the numbers of said stiffeners. I'm not quite getting the
picture in my limited brain. Actually, any pictures?
John Jessen
(#40382 HS)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Subject: RV10-List: Static wicks
I have installed 6/32 nutplates on the two top to stiffeners of the rudder
(left side), and will also place them on the elevators, when I get to that
point, for later installation of static wicks (latest Cessna type), if they
turn out to be needed. EQUALLY IMPORTANT is the installation of nutplates in
lieu of the rivets above the hinges on the rudder bearing doublers, that
will allow for the installation of braided grounding straps on each bearing
bolt, which allows for high current flows around the bearings, instead of
thru them, which can cause WELDED bearings on your primary control surfaces!
Chris Hukill
starting the elevator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Sims <n217gt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Recess Box F1001K |
I don't know about yours, but I almost did the same thing until I
realized I was looking at the firewall backwards. I initially
thought the flanges should point rearward on the fuse (my natural
tendency), but the flanges go forward and the recess sticks out in
the opposite direction.
Aaron
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
n217gt(at)gmail.com
On Sep 7, 2005, at 9:36 AM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> It seems that the F1001K recess box that attaches on to the
> firewall is a mirror image of what is shown on the plans. Has
> anyone had this same problem?
>
> Niko
> 40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Recess Box F1001K |
Thanks for the reply Aaron.
I am looking at it the same way you are. Firewall flanges forward and the box
is extending aft of the firewall. The only way for me to fit it is for the box
to extend forward of the firewall. Because of the nut plate holes on the top
edge of the box there is really only one way for it to fit on the Firewall.
If I align the holes it sticks out in the same direction as the firewall flanges.
Niko
Aaron Sims wrote:
I don't know about yours, but I almost did the same thing until I realized I was
looking at the firewall backwards. I initially thought the flanges should point
rearward on the fuse (my natural tendency), but the flanges go forward and
the recess sticks out in the opposite direction.
Aaron
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
n217gt(at)gmail.com
On Sep 7, 2005, at 9:36 AM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
It seems that the F1001K recess box that attaches on to the firewall is a mirror
image of what is shown on the plans. Has anyone had this same problem?
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Recess Box F1001K |
I just talked to Vans about this. Apparently some of these parts were folded the
wrong way. They did try to pull them out of the kits but some of them got
out. So if anyone else has the same problem they can give Vans a call.
Niko
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
It seems that the F1001K recess box that attaches on to the firewall is a mirror
image of what is shown on the plans. Has anyone had this same problem?
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks |
THe link John is mentioning is this one:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/staticwicks/staticwicks.html
I plan to put them on mine, although I haven't started yet and
need to really soon. You can see by the photo on the page
that it looks like this did some burning on the tail, and probably
across the bearings.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Kirkland wrote:
>
> Look on Tim's website. Static wick manufacturer's (Dayton Granger)
> recommendation for the RV-10 airframe has been posted there. No need to
> wonder or flounder...
> John Kirkland
> #40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Recess Box F1001K |
Here's a couple pics of Randy's that may help you...
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20040927/DSCN1956.html>
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20041009/DSCN1958.html>
-Sean #40303
Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
> Thanks for the reply Aaron.
>
> I am looking at it the same way you are. Firewall flanges forward and
> the box is extending aft of the firewall. The only way for me to fit
> it is for the box to extend forward of the firewall. Because of the
> nut plate holes on the top edge of the box there is really only one
> way for it to fit on the Firewall. If I align the holes it sticks out
> in the same direction as the firewall flanges.
>
>
> Niko
>
> */Aaron Sims /* wrote:
>
> I don't know about yours, but I almost did the same thing until I
> realized I was looking at the firewall backwards. I initially
> thought the flanges should point rearward on the fuse (my natural
> tendency), but the flanges go forward and the recess sticks out in
> the opposite direction.
>
> Aaron
> --
> Aaron Sims
> RV-10 #40036 (Firewall)
> http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
> n217gt(at)gmail.com
>
>
> On Sep 7, 2005, at 9:36 AM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
>
>> It seems that the F1001K recess box that attaches on to the
>> firewall is a mirror image of what is shown on the plans. Has
>> anyone had this same problem?
>>
>> Niko
>> 40188
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Just remember that static wicks don't really have much to do with lightning protection.
When a big a-- bolt of lightning comes through, a little bit of carbon
and plastic is not going to affect its progress.
Hopefully your EFIS, etc is lightning hardened and tested . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Static Wicks
THe link John is mentioning is this one:
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/staticwicks/staticwicks.html
I plan to put them on mine, although I haven't started yet and
need to really soon. You can see by the photo on the page
that it looks like this did some burning on the tail, and probably
across the bearings.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Kirkland wrote:
>
> Look on Tim's website. Static wick manufacturer's (Dayton Granger)
> recommendation for the RV-10 airframe has been posted there. No need to
> wonder or flounder...
> John Kirkland
> #40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Recess Box F1001K |
Just did that part this weekend, No problems at all.
And you thought drilling the aileron counterweights was fun, wait until you get
to the three 5/8" holes in that recess box on stainless steel!
I backed up mine against some hard wood to support it.
It is as appears on the plans.
Jim Combs
#40192
N312F
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 06:36:53 -0700 (PDT)
It seems that the F1001K recess box that attaches on to the firewall is a mirror
image of what is shown on the plans. Has anyone had this same problem?
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap rivetting |
I bought one for $5 from Harbor Freight and ground the heck out of it
for use in tight spaces. Know what? It works better and with less
effort than the $35 one I got from Avery.
PJ
40032
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> That's exactly what I did. Grind flat the face of the puller head.
> If you don't want to do it to your nice puller, go get a cheap one
> from somewhere and grind that one flat.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
>>
>> G'day all,
>>
>> Just finishing off the flaps and installing the -319 pop rivets. I
>> have the stanley swivel head puller from Avery, but find it won't
>> quite fit against the hinge assemblies on the flap bottom, so the
>> rivets do not go in straight. Any hints? I am reluctant to grind
>> the side off my rivet puller . . .
>> cheers,
>> Ron
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
I have an cheap Arrow tool that is very thin and works in tight spaces.
I broke down and bought a pneumatic gun once I started the cabin floors.
I purchased mine at Home Depot
http://www.jensentools.com/product/group.asp?parent_id=419602
Bobby Hughes
40116 Fus\ Engine
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PJ Seipel
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap rivetting
I bought one for $5 from Harbor Freight and ground the heck out of it
for use in tight spaces. Know what? It works better and with less
effort than the $35 one I got from Avery.
PJ
40032
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> That's exactly what I did. Grind flat the face of the puller head.
> If you don't want to do it to your nice puller, go get a cheap one
> from somewhere and grind that one flat.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
>>
>> G'day all,
>>
>> Just finishing off the flaps and installing the -319 pop rivets. I
>> have the stanley swivel head puller from Avery, but find it won't
>> quite fit against the hinge assemblies on the flap bottom, so the
>> rivets do not go in straight. Any hints? I am reluctant to grind
>> the side off my rivet puller . . .
>> cheers,
>> Ron
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I took this advice from Sean Stephens' and splurged about US$5 on a cheapie from
the local hardware store. Ground it down and it pulled the rivets beautifully.
Pulled most of the bottom rivets on the left flap and noticed the heads
came out a little domed. Checked the rivet insert and found that it was for cup
head rivets. Doh !! Ground the insert flat and the rest came out fine. Geez
it's hard to remember to double check everything!
Ron
#187
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of PJ Seipel
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap rivetting
I bought one for $5 from Harbor Freight and ground the heck out of it
for use in tight spaces. Know what? It works better and with less
effort than the $35 one I got from Avery.
PJ
40032
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> That's exactly what I did. Grind flat the face of the puller head.
> If you don't want to do it to your nice puller, go get a cheap one
> from somewhere and grind that one flat.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
>>
>> G'day all,
>>
>> Just finishing off the flaps and installing the -319 pop rivets. I
>> have the stanley swivel head puller from Avery, but find it won't
>> quite fit against the hinge assemblies on the flap bottom, so the
>> rivets do not go in straight. Any hints? I am reluctant to grind
>> the side off my rivet puller . . .
>> cheers,
>> Ron
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flap trailing edge |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Planning the assembly of the flap trailing edges.
I have used the angle iron back rivet method (with Proseal)on the rudder, elevators
and ailerons with great success. But the flaps are much longer and exceed
the length of my angle iron setup. Has any one uncovered any gotchas or experienced
any straightness issues with the flap TEs? I note that the plans call
for setting the TE before the bottom rivets are pulled. Is there any reason
for this?
Thanks in advance
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
What size (width) fiberglass cloth did you get for the fairing buildup?
What size would you recommend?
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Windshield Fairing?
I just did a write up of the stuff here:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/fuselage/20050821/index.html
I think it was maybe 4" width....remember that it's E-Glass you
want. The part number is listed....thanks to Scott Schmidt.
Don't forget the rotary cutting tool. It's PERFECT for this
job.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> What size (width) fiberglass cloth did you get for the fairing buildup?
> What size would you recommend?
>
>
>
> Rob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap trailing edge |
Flap trailing edgeWhile on our trip in the states I was lucky enough to work with
Ken K (engineer at Vans) and we built a Aileron and he showed me how to do
trailing edge...no proseal glue or anything.
He did it and perfectly straight.
So I used a large angle iron which you rest trailing edge on...put a weight on
each end and start anywhere you like and just back rivet.No proseal.
I did the elevators and rudder this way...dead straight and no messy proseal or
that extra weight.
No discussion needed took about 4 minutes each elevator!!
Done no dramas!!
Chris
RV6 Sold
RV10 cone
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 10:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap trailing edge
G'day all,
Planning the assembly of the flap trailing edges.
I have used the angle iron back rivet method (with Proseal)on the rudder, elevators
and ailerons with great success. But the flaps are much longer and exceed
the length of my angle iron setup. Has any one uncovered any gotchas or experienced
any straightness issues with the flap TEs? I note that the plans call
for setting the TE before the bottom rivets are pulled. Is there any reason
for this?
Thanks in advance
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Wischmeyer <edwisch(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Wicks--need suggestionsStatic Wicks--need |
Nope, not spending nearly enough time on the -10. Writing articles,
physical therapy, taking a few classes, and looking for a new job.
(resume is on line).
However, the stabilizer *is* finished. Elevator is almost ready to
rivet.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
For those who might be interested in having a custom built prop, I'm having a
3 bladed c/s prop built by Johnny Downs of Millennium Propellers in
Lancaster, TX., tel 469-231-6225, for considerably cheaper than either Hartzel,
McCaulley or MT.
I am not soliciting for Johnny, but he has been in the prop business for
years.
He has an FAA action pending, but you need to talk to him about it.
Cheers - John #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
What is CONSIDERABLY cheaper? $2000, $3000?
What is CONSIDERABLY cheaper? $2000, $3000?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
I suggest that you contact Mr. Downs for a quote for you. Let's just say
that compared to what the 3 manufactures quoted me at Osh for their new ones, I
could probably buy 2 of his.
He makes his experimental props with either new or overhauled Hartzel
components.
Mine will be a 6 year or 2,000 hr hub.
In a message dated 9/8/2005 10:27:52 PM Central Standard Time,
ddddsp1(at)juno.com writes:
What is CONSIDERABLY cheaper? $2000, $3000?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
I can't seem to find any contact info on the web for a Mr. Downs that
does propellers.
Can you point us in the right direction?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
GenGrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> I suggest that you contact Mr. Downs for a quote for you. Let's just
> say that compared to what the 3 manufactures quoted me at Osh for
> their new ones, I could probably buy 2 of his.
>
> He makes his experimental props with either new or overhauled Hartzel
> components.
>
> Mine will be a 6 year or 2,000 hr hub.
>
> In a message dated 9/8/2005 10:27:52 PM Central Standard Time,
> ddddsp1(at)juno.com writes:
>
> What is CONSIDERABLY cheaper? $2000, $3000?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
IIRC Van's price for a new prop is about $5500. Each of us will have at
least 100K in the 10 when finished. I am having difficulty understanding the
desire to buy a prop that has an unknown history. I read the accident
reports for experimentals and a very significant percentage of the accidents
are not related to the airframe/construction but propulsion.
alternative engines/alternative props and unapproved engine/prop
combination. My only request is please don't increase the insurance rates
for the rest of us.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Props
>
> I can't seem to find any contact info on the web for a Mr. Downs that does
> propellers.
>
> Can you point us in the right direction?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303
>
> GenGrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
>> I suggest that you contact Mr. Downs for a quote for you. Let's just say
>> that compared to what the 3 manufactures quoted me at Osh for their new
>> ones, I could probably buy 2 of his.
>> He makes his experimental props with either new or overhauled Hartzel
>> components.
>> Mine will be a 6 year or 2,000 hr hub. In a message dated 9/8/2005
>> 10:27:52 PM Central Standard Time, ddddsp1(at)juno.com writes:
>>
>> What is CONSIDERABLY cheaper? $2000, $3000?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating (LED)beacon in
the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of the rudder,any body
install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
Hugo
I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft >Lauderdale,Today
I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase direct)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
Hugo,
Check the archives; I asked this question once and was laughed into
oblivion!
Seriously though, there is none. The white strobe is your anticollision
lighting (instead of the beacon).
-Jim 40384
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating (LED)beacon
in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of the rudder,any body
install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
>Hugo
>I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft >Lauderdale,Today
I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase direct)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd3.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
* 0.9 AWL AWL: From: address is in the auto white-list
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
I have a cats whisker vor/loc/gs antenna mounted on top of my VS.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating
(LED)beacon in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of the
rudder,any body install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
> Hugo
> I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft
>Lauderdale,Today I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase direct)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
* 0.5 HTML_40_50 BODY: Message is 40% to 50% HTML
* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
* 0.6 AWL AWL: From: address is in the auto white-list
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding straps, I
realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the HS to attach the
bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody see any reason I couldn't
drill them out now and just use blind rivets to hold the nutplates in place???
A couple obvious problems would be metal shavings between the hinge and rear
spar from drilling, and deburring. I have the #30 and #40 cogsdill tools so
deburring the small holes would be no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
probably use a small file on it.
I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I was just
in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out further.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
You could use a click bond nutplate and thus only have to deal with one
hole. A little pricy, but easy to install.
T. Rene' Felker
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Bonding Straps
Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding
straps, I realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the HS to
attach the bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody see any
reason I couldn't drill them out now and just use blind rivets to hold the
nutplates in place??? A couple obvious problems would be metal shavings
between the hinge and rear spar from drilling, and deburring. I have the
#30 and #40 cogsdill tools so deburring the small holes would be no problem.
As for the larger hole, I could probably use a small file on it.
I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I was
just in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out
further.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
Here's the FAA link
http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/programs/sups/upn/media/UPN%202004-00041.pdf
Sounds like he's in a bit of trouble.....
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 9:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Props
For those who might be interested in having a custom built prop, I'm having a
3 bladed c/s prop built by Johnny Downs of Millennium Propellers in Lancaster,
TX., tel 469-231-6225, for considerably cheaper than either Hartzel, McCaulley
or MT.
I am not soliciting for Johnny, but he has been in the prop business for years.
He has an FAA action pending, but you need to talk to him about it.
Cheers - John #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Here is the action pending on that prop shop down south, FYI
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Props
Here's the FAA link
http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/safety/programs/sups/upn/media/UPN%202004-00
041.pdf
Sounds like he's in a bit of trouble.....
-Brian
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2005 9:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Props
I'm having a 3 bladed c/s prop built by Johnny Downs of Millennium
Propellers in Lancaster, TX., tel 469-231-6225, for considerably cheaper
than either Hartzel, McCaulley or MT.
I am not soliciting for Johnny, but he has been in the prop
business for years.
He has an FAA action pending, but you need to talk to him about
it.
Cheers - John #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
Bill
I used 6/32 nuplates on R101G-L and R1010F-L stiffeners. They are mounted with
1 1/8 inch spacing and the aft nutplate is 2 1/4 inches from the trailing edge.
This allows me to use some older Cessna type static wicks that I had on hand, but
is also the same spacing that the newer Cessna wicks use. They don't screw
in, rather the base is mounted to the control surface as a single piece.
The bonding straps are attached to the rudder using the hole that the plans calls
for a rivet in the upper hole on the R608PP and R607PP doublers. The lower
bearing strap attaches to the bottom hole in the rudder spar.
This allows for a strap that goes under the bolt head of the bearing pivot bolt,
and attaches to the rudder at those points, to the nutplates that where installed
in the holes. I will do this on all primary control surfaces. If your rudder
is already closed up, it would be acceptable to pop rivet the straps to the
control surface, as many production airplane manufacturers have done. I will
have to do this on my ailerons, as they are quickbuild, and closed up.
Irregardless of what some posters may think, it is very important to have these
straps, as close to the bearings as possible, to help protect those bearings
from not only welding tight, but also from electrolic corrosion produced from
years of service, flying in clouds. At least that was what I was taught 25 years
ago while attending A&P school. Maybe things have changed since then?
Chris Hukill
Starting RV-10 HS
Flying RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bonding Straps |
Bill,
I have some larger size used Burraway bits I will sell
at a reasonable cost. If you are interested e-mail me
off list.
Steve 40212
--- Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Amid all the conversation going on about the static
> wicks and bonding straps, I realized I forgot to put
> the nutplates on the hinges of the HS to attach the
> bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody
> see any reason I couldn't drill them out now and
> just use blind rivets to hold the nutplates in
> place??? A couple obvious problems would be metal
> shavings between the hinge and rear spar from
> drilling, and deburring. I have the #30 and #40
> cogsdill tools so deburring the small holes would be
> no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
> probably use a small file on it.
>
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first
> time but I guess I was just in too big of a hurry to
> get my first piece completed.
>
> Anybody see any bigger problems I may be
> overlooking???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Elevators
>
> PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding
> strap thing out further.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
Has anybody heard of someone making safety straps for the RV-10 doors? We
recently heard that a Lancair had a door come open on takeoff and if it
hadn't been for their safety device the door would have flown open and who
knows what other damage would have been caused. Has anybody even though
about this option?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Safety Straps |
Jesse,
I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the bottom.
The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out of the
way during loading / unloading operations.
The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight configuration,
it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed due to
the direction of the airstream.
Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane flight configuration,
should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading are a little
bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not seen anyone put
a gas strut on one yet!).
My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap is
not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or some other
method).
However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after flying.
Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
Later, Jim C
#40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Bonding Straps |
Hrm, since they are attached with adhesive, doesn't that mean that they
wont make a good electrical connection for the bonding straps?
Someone else suggested putting the strap on the bolt that goes through
the hinge and the bracket, but if I'm interpreting this correctly it
seems like that would force the current flow through the bearing which
is what we are trying to avoid... Or did he mean to fasten it
underneath the bolt that
has the bearing on one end and goes through the spar at the spar side?
If one was to retrofit the nutplates with blind rivets, how will you get
the nutplate behind the spar? I think I can do that on the HS through
the lightening holes but it looks like it wouldn't be possilbe on the
completed VS/rudder.
Rene Felker wrote:
> You could use a click bond nutplate and thus only have to deal with
> one hole. A little pricy, but easy to install.
>
>
>
> T. Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Friday, September 09, 2005 7:15 AM
> *To:* RV10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Bonding Straps
>
>
>
> Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding
> straps, I realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the
> HS to attach the bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody
> see any reason I couldn't drill them out now and just use blind rivets
> to hold the nutplates in place??? A couple obvious problems would be
> metal shavings between the hinge and rear spar from drilling, and
> deburring. I have the #30 and #40 cogsdill tools so deburring the
> small holes would be no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
> probably use a small file on it.
>
>
>
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I
> was just in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
>
>
>
> Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
>
>
>
> Bill Britton
>
> RV-10 Elevators
>
>
>
> PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out
> further.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
As far as the adhesive is concerned, you would have to make a contact area
on the bolt side and not depend on the nutplate providing the current path.
I would think you would want to do that anyway.
Rene
40322
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bonding Straps
Hrm, since they are attached with adhesive, doesn't that mean that they
wont make a good electrical connection for the bonding straps?
Someone else suggested putting the strap on the bolt that goes through
the hinge and the bracket, but if I'm interpreting this correctly it
seems like that would force the current flow through the bearing which
is what we are trying to avoid... Or did he mean to fasten it
underneath the bolt that
has the bearing on one end and goes through the spar at the spar side?
If one was to retrofit the nutplates with blind rivets, how will you get
the nutplate behind the spar? I think I can do that on the HS through
the lightening holes but it looks like it wouldn't be possilbe on the
completed VS/rudder.
Rene Felker wrote:
> You could use a click bond nutplate and thus only have to deal with
> one hole. A little pricy, but easy to install.
>
>
>
> T. Rene' Felker
>
> 40322
>
> N423CF
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Friday, September 09, 2005 7:15 AM
> *To:* RV10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Bonding Straps
>
>
>
> Amid all the conversation going on about the static wicks and bonding
> straps, I realized I forgot to put the nutplates on the hinges of the
> HS to attach the bonding straps to. Now, it's riveted. Does anybody
> see any reason I couldn't drill them out now and just use blind rivets
> to hold the nutplates in place??? A couple obvious problems would be
> metal shavings between the hinge and rear spar from drilling, and
> deburring. I have the #30 and #40 cogsdill tools so deburring the
> small holes would be no problem. As for the larger hole, I could
> probably use a small file on it.
>
>
>
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I
> was just in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
>
>
>
> Anybody see any bigger problems I may be overlooking???
>
>
>
> Bill Britton
>
> RV-10 Elevators
>
>
>
> PS Sorry for dragging this whole static wick/bonding strap thing out
> further.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I thought about putting in either a snap on strap, or Velcro, you have
to be careful that it will be a breakaway type item in case of a crash
or fire. I thought a properly placed Velcro strip would be enough to
hold it shut just in case but not long enough to cause egress problems,
but it would be a fine line...
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
Has anybody heard of someone making safety straps for the RV-10 doors?
We recently heard that a Lancair had a door come open on takeoff and if
it hadn't been for their safety device the door would have flown open
and who knows what other damage would have been caused. Has anybody
even though about this option?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
Again. I suggest that you contact Mr Downs for the "rest of the story" as the
saying goes.
I am more than happy having him build me a prop.
cheers - grumpy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Millennium Props |
For those who want to contact my prop maker, it is Johnny Downs of Millennium
Propellers in Lancaster, TX., tel 469-231-6225.
He can tell you the "rest of the story" on the FAA action.
grumpy - 40404
In a message dated 9/8/2005 10:52:24 PM Central Standard Time,
schmoboy(at)cox.net writes:
I can't seem to find any contact info on the web for a Mr. Downs that
does propellers.
Can you point us in the right direction?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
All,
I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of bending
the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this thing bent? I can't
figure out what I can get in there to hold the small portion of skin flat
against the workbench to get it bent over. Now that the end tabs are bent over,
they hit against any piece of wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions
would be helpful. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Use your seamers, and get it close, this bend is to make sure it clears
the bottom of the elevator, do several test fits, and make sure it is
far enough
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Bend
All,
I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of
bending the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this
thing bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to hold the
small portion of skin flat against the workbench to get it bent over.
Now that the end tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of wood
that I try to put there. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Safety Straps |
HI,GUYS,Hugo here .If any body will like to test an strap of rubber coated fabric(I'm
a Inflatables boat builder)the Hypalon fabric is very tough ,very soft,no
way will broke if the dor open,when glued together the comercial style it is
not way of brake it.if somebody will experiment I will be happy to sen pieces(free),the
only problem is the glue ,cannot be shipp by air,eventually I will
made some parts in the way I intend to do for me and shipp together,let me know
Hugo
>
> From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
> Date: 2005/09/09 Fri PM 08:43:38 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
>
> I thought about putting in either a snap on strap, or Velcro, you have
> to be careful that it will be a breakaway type item in case of a crash
> or fire. I thought a properly placed Velcro strip would be enough to
> hold it shut just in case but not long enough to cause egress problems,
> but it would be a fine line...
> Dan
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Friday, September 09, 2005 4:37 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
>
>
>
> Has anybody heard of someone making safety straps for the RV-10 doors?
> We recently heard that a Lancair had a door come open on takeoff and if
> it hadn't been for their safety device the door would have flown open
> and who knows what other damage would have been caused. Has anybody
> even though about this option?
>
>
>
> Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
Shawn,
I took a piece of 2X6 cut to the length of the trim
tab minus 1/8" for clearance. Then I ran it through my
table saw (use the thinnest cutting blade you can
find) making a slot the depth of the bent flange about
one inch from the edge. Then trim the 2X6 off from the
slot on an angle outward for clearance so when you
slip the flange into the slot and bend the whole
flange at once you have clearance. I thought a picture
would describe it easier so I dug the board out of the
scrap wood stack, it's a little beat up but you get
the idea.
Steve 40212
--- Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have
> come to the point of bending the skin 15 degrees
> (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this thing
> bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to
> hold the small portion of skin flat against the
> workbench to get it bent over. Now that the end
> tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of
> wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions would
> be helpful. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> __________________________________________________
> protection around
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
before the clamp bend and wants to give.
I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
identified but is the only part that fits under it.
Thanks. Ro.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
As mentioned you can use the seamers. I built my trim tabs twice. On
my first set I used the seamer and ended up with a 15 degree bend that
was wavy as hell and my little end tabs came out very badly. If you use
the seamer be careful and go slowly or it'll make a mess.
When I built my second set I cut them apart along the trailing edge and
riveted the trailing edge with AEX wedge just like all the other control
surfaces on the plane. One of the big advantages of doing it that way
is that I could do the little end rib bends and the 15 degree bend with
ease because I didn't have to deal with the rest of the tab being in the
way. Came out much better, and I'm disappointed that Van's didn't just
have us do it this way to begin with.
PJ
40032
Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of
> bending the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this
> thing bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to hold the
> small portion of skin flat against the workbench to get it bent over.
> Now that the end tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of
> wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> __________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear elastomers |
Hi Rob:
I had the same problem until i figured out that the powder coating was up to
far on the (rod ) cant' remember the part number at home ! take it off about
an inch or so and it will go right thru that hole , and then you can insert
the bolt . The tolerances are real close .
Brian Bollaert
#40200
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Kermanj" <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>
> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>
> Thanks. Ro.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Air - vents |
Vans had a pair of aluminum "eyeball" type air vents on show at Oshkosh, has
anyone fitted these to their RV 10 yet. I would be interested to hear what
vents are being used by other builders
Dave Emond
busy on the fuse
#40159
----- Original Message -----
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
> Hi Rob:
>
> I had the same problem until i figured out that the powder coating was up
> to
> far on the (rod ) cant' remember the part number at home ! take it off
> about
> an inch or so and it will go right thru that hole , and then you can
> insert
> the bolt . The tolerances are real close .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> #40200
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob Kermanj" <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 8:18 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
>
>>
>> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
>> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
>> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
>> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>>
>> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
>> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>>
>> Thanks. Ro.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bonding Straps |
Bill and Tami Britton writes:
> I know it's not as good as doing it right the first time but I guess I was just
in too big of a hurry to get my first piece completed.
>
You ought to go out to the airport and see what the factories did when they
built the Cessnas, Pipers, and Beechcrafts. Bonding straps and static wicks
were obviously added as an option once the aircraft was completely assembled
and painted. Last things they did before flying it out of the factory for
delivery. No problem. The C-182 I flew yesterday has the wicks pop riveted
thru the skins, squeezing them together a bit, the bonding strap lugs go
thru the hinge bolt and the other end is just a machine screw drilled
randomly into the spar where it was convenient. Go look at the ramp for
ideas before drilling apart anything you've got done.
John Kirkland
#40333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Door Safety Straps |
I'm talking about the main doors, not the baggage door.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Safety Straps
Jesse,
I recently saw a baggage door on a certified aircraft that was hinged at the
bottom. The good thing about that was when it was open, it was always out
of the way during loading / unloading operations.
The downside was that if it opened in flight, depending on airplane flight
configuration, it was going to slam all the way open or stay "almost" closed
due to the direction of the airstream.
Now the -10 door is hinged at the front and regardless of the airplane
flight configuration, should be held almost closed. Loading and unloading
are a little bit of a pain because the door is free to swing (I have not
seen anyone put a gas strut on one yet!).
My take is the door hinge is ok where it's at and the use of a safety strap
is not needed. I would like to see a gas strut to hold the door open (or
some other method).
However, given that I am not flying just yet, my opinion may change after
flying. Others who are in the air already can give us the real story.
Later, Jim C
#40192 - N312F (Fuselage)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
We did it by lifting on the tail. That give you the necessary leverage to
compress the rubbers and get the nut installed.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
before the clamp bend and wants to give.
I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
identified but is the only part that fits under it.
Thanks. Ro.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter |
We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One thing
we noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking off that oil
fliter that is sticking straight out the back of the engine without getting
oil all over everything. Unless there is a good way to drain the oil filter
before taking it off, we need to find a trick to make this possible. For
those of you who have engines that don't yet have an oil filter adapter on
them, I think there is a right angle one that will have the filter pointing
straight up. This would help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the
oil out of the filter before you take it off. Second, it will be very much
easier to get at to install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter
sticks aft to flush with the firewall (right there where the recessed box
is).
If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That is a
really messy process.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter |
There are a couple of things you can do. Make a tray out of a plastic
milk jug to 'funnel' spilled oil from the seal end towards the firewall
where it can be collected in a can or bottle. Of course, if you have
stuff in the way you'll have to find another direction to 'funnel' it
to. It make a custom fiberglas part with a drain hose down to a
container. Be creative, because you're going to use this a lot if you
fly a lot!!! The second thing is to take a nail and punch a hole in
the top side of the filter. This lets air in so the oil can drain.
After a (undertimed) duration of time, turn the filter 1/2 turn so that
the nail hole is over your 'funnel' so the rest of the oil can drain
out. You'll have to poke another hole in the top to let the air in
again. After the filter had drained (no more drips) then remove the
filter and your 'funnel'.
Best of luck.
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
> We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One
> thing we noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking
> off that oil fliter that is sticking straight out the back of the
> engine without getting oil all over everything. Unless there is a
> good way to drain the oil filter before taking it off, we need to find
> a trick to make this possible. For those of you who have engines that
> don't yet have an oil filter adapter on them, I think there is a right
> angle one that will have the filter pointing straight up. This would
> help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the oil out of the
> filter before you take it off. Second, it will be very much easier to
> get at to install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter sticks
> aft to flush with the firewall (right there where the recessed box is).
>
>
>
> If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That
> is a really messy process.
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
>
> W: 352-465-4545
>
> C: 352-427-0285
>
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter |
Awesome suggestion with the nail. Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter
There are a couple of things you can do. Make a tray out of a plastic milk
jug to 'funnel' spilled oil from the seal end towards the firewall where it
can be collected in a can or bottle. Of course, if you have stuff in the
way you'll have to find another direction to 'funnel' it to. It make a
custom fiberglas part with a drain hose down to a container. Be creative,
because you're going to use this a lot if you fly a lot!!! The second
thing is to take a nail and punch a hole in the top side of the filter.
This lets air in so the oil can drain. After a (undertimed) duration of
time, turn the filter 1/2 turn so that the nail hole is over your 'funnel'
so the rest of the oil can drain out. You'll have to poke another hole in
the top to let the air in again. After the filter had drained (no more
drips) then remove the filter and your 'funnel'.
Best of luck.
Linn
Jesse Saint wrote:
We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One thing
we noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking off that oil
fliter that is sticking straight out the back of the engine without getting
oil all over everything. Unless there is a good way to drain the oil filter
before taking it off, we need to find a trick to make this possible. For
those of you who have engines that don't yet have an oil filter adapter on
them, I think there is a right angle one that will have the filter pointing
straight up. This would help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the
oil out of the filter before you take it off. Second, it will be very much
easier to get at to install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter
sticks aft to flush with the firewall (right there where the recessed box
is).
If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That is a
really messy process.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian" <av8er(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter |
Avery has an oil filter drain kit:
http://www.averytools.com/cart/p-86-oil-filter-drain-kit.aspx
Seems like I have seen them elsewhere as well.
Brian
40308 (QB and finish arrived 09/09/05!)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 5:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil Filter Adapter
We just did our 50-hour oil change (actually at about 57 hours). One thing we
noticed is that it is going to be a pain in the neck taking off that oil fliter
that is sticking straight out the back of the engine without getting oil all
over everything. Unless there is a good way to drain the oil filter before
taking it off, we need to find a trick to make this possible. For those of you
who have engines that don't yet have an oil filter adapter on them, I think
there is a right angle one that will have the filter pointing straight up. This
would help in a couple of ways. One, it would drain the oil out of the filter
before you take it off. Second, it will be very much easier to get at to
install, safety wire, remove, etc. The oil filter sticks aft to flush with the
firewall (right there where the recessed box is).
If there seems to be something I am missing, please let me know. That is a really
messy process.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Sims <n217gt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting rudder pedal brace |
I'm ready to rivet the rudder pedal brace to the firewall (connects
to the recess on the firewall). However, my rivet gun won't fit
inside the recess to shoot the rivet. I'm tempted to use pop rivets
here since I can't think of a good way to drive the rivets. Anyone
have any tips to this using a solid AD rivet?
Aaron
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
n217gt(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
I wondered about the trailing edge of these things myself. Thought it might look
a little bit odd having all of the other trailing edges being the wedge type
and these ones being bent. I think what I will end up doing is running out
this week to get the steel angle iron that I planned on getting for the rest of
the trailing edges. I should be able to clamp that with the skin between it
and the workbench. It will be thin enough to bend. Anybody know of a good place
to pick that up in Phoenix?
--Shawn
40366
PJ Seipel wrote:
As mentioned you can use the seamers. I built my trim tabs twice. On
my first set I used the seamer and ended up with a 15 degree bend that
was wavy as hell and my little end tabs came out very badly. If you use
the seamer be careful and go slowly or it'll make a mess.
When I built my second set I cut them apart along the trailing edge and
riveted the trailing edge with AEX wedge just like all the other control
surfaces on the plane. One of the big advantages of doing it that way
is that I could do the little end rib bends and the 15 degree bend with
ease because I didn't have to deal with the rest of the tab being in the
way. Came out much better, and I'm disappointed that Van's didn't just
have us do it this way to begin with.
PJ
40032
Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am working on the elevator trim tabs and have come to the point of
> bending the skin 15 degrees (Page 9-17 step 2). How did you get this
> thing bent? I can't figure out what I can get in there to hold the
> small portion of skin flat against the workbench to get it bent over.
> Now that the end tabs are bent over, they hit against any piece of
> wood that I try to put there. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> __________________________________________________
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting rudder pedal brace |
I back riveted them by having a partner hold a bucking bar on the
manufactured head.
PJ
40032
Aaron Sims wrote:
>
> I'm ready to rivet the rudder pedal brace to the firewall (connects
> to the recess on the firewall). However, my rivet gun won't fit
> inside the recess to shoot the rivet. I'm tempted to use pop rivets
> here since I can't think of a good way to drive the rivets. Anyone
> have any tips to this using a solid AD rivet?
>
> Aaron
> --
> Aaron Sims
> RV-10 #40036 (Firewall)
> http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
> n217gt(at)gmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Bend |
Home Depot or Ace Hardware usually have angle iron in stock.
-Sean #40303 Cave Creek
Shawn Moon wrote:
> I wondered about the trailing edge of these things myself. Thought it
> might look a little bit odd having all of the other trailing edges
> being the wedge type and these ones being bent. I think what I will
> end up doing is running out this week to get the steel angle iron that
> I planned on getting for the rest of the trailing edges. I should be
> able to clamp that with the skin between it and the workbench. It
> will be thin enough to bend. Anybody know of a good place to pick
> that up in Phoenix?
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> */PJ Seipel /* wrote:
>
>
> As mentioned you can use the seamers. I built my trim tabs twice. On
> my first set I used the seamer and ended up with a 15 degree bend
> that
> was wavy as hell and my little end tabs came out very badly. If
> you use
> the seamer be careful and go slowly or it'll make a mess.
>
> When I built my second set I cut them apart along the trailing
> edge and
> riveted the trailing edge with AEX wedge just like all the other
> control
> surfaces on the plane. One of the big advantages of doing it that way
> is that I could do the little end rib bends and the 15 degree bend
> with
> ease because I didn't have to deal with the rest of the tab being
> in the
> way. Came out much better, and I'm disappointed that Van's didn't
> just
> have us do it this way to begin with.
>
> PJ
> 40032
>
> Shawn Moo n amp;
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear elastomers |
Thanks for the reply brian. I did the same thing with the paint but
having trouble installing the assembly on the mount. the donuts do not
want to squeeze enough to get the bolt holes and the cap aligned. It
seem like that you did not have the same problem.
Rob.
On Sep 10, 2005, at 11:35 AM, brian bollaert wrote:
>
>
> Hi Rob:
>
> I had the same problem until i figured out that the powder coating was
> up to
> far on the (rod ) cant' remember the part number at home ! take it off
> about
> an inch or so and it will go right thru that hole , and then you can
> insert
> the bolt . The tolerances are real close .
>
> Brian Bollaert
> #40200
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rob Kermanj" <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 8:18 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
>
>>
>> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I
>> am
>> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
>> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
>> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>>
>> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
>> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>>
>> Thanks. Ro.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear elastomers |
Thanks for the reply. I will try it. Did you have the engine on the
mount at the time you lifted the tail?
Thanks, Rob.
On Sep 10, 2005, at 5:54 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> We did it by lifting on the tail. That give you the necessary
> leverage to
> compress the rubbers and get the nut installed.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 11:18 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>
> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>
> Thanks. Ro.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ExperCraft build log |
| From: | "Robert Riggen" <rob(at)riggen.org> |
Fellow builders,
This is an invite to those who need a method for creating a project log
and Web site.
Even if you've already started your log using another system this one is
worth a look.
ExperCraft Simple Log is free for builders and is a great way to create a
comprehensive log and Web site. It's very easy to use.
http://www.expercraft.com
Enjoy!
Rob
--
Rob Riggen
building a Vans RV7
http://websites.expercraft.com/rriggen
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
All,
Anyone know what the outside diameter of RG400U coax is? Trying to
figure wire runs in the wings. Thanks
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com> |
Officially the OD of RG-400 is .195, but it's better to figure on 1/4" for
coax runs.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: RG400U diameter
All,
Anyone know what the outside diameter of RG400U coax is? Trying to
figure wire runs in the wings. Thanks
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
No, we didn't have the engine on. It would be pretty hard to work on that
with the engine on. The suggestion of climbing on the engine mount and
pushing against the ceiling would probably work as well, and it would
certainly be better for pictures for the builder's log. Either way, it
should work. It does take a lot of pressure to compress them, which is the
way you want it.
Have fun.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
Thanks for the reply. I will try it. Did you have the engine on the
mount at the time you lifted the tail?
Thanks, Rob.
On Sep 10, 2005, at 5:54 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> We did it by lifting on the tail. That give you the necessary
> leverage to
> compress the rubbers and get the nut installed.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 11:18 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
>
> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>
> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>
> Thanks. Ro.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | trimtab trailing edges |
I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method (no Proseal)
on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I like the idea of using
the same technique for the trim tabs, however I wonder if the additional weight
of the AEX and rivets out there could be a concern ? Is there a balance issue
with trim tabs as well? Before I call Vans and ask them, I would sure like
to hear anyone's opinion on this concern. Thanks
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Talley <RV10(at)satx.rr.com> |
0.15 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY: HTML contains text after BODY close tag
Folks,
Got back from a two week trip to my mother-in-laws (!) and I had over
700 emails in my RV-10 account.
Just got caught up on Sunday.
Here's a couple of answers to some questions:
Clecos: I got mine at ATS, they had the lowest prices for NEW ones.
This was around last Christmas...
Wire: Contact the following guy at wire masters: "Glenn Hill"
Note: when we buy wire we buy in 1000 foot or 500 foot increments.
The BIG (read expensive) stuff we usually get in 100 foot
increments. If wire masters can't do it for for contact S.E.A. wire
and cable.
Here are the links:
http://www.sea-wire.com/
http://www.wiremasters.net/
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/
Remember, when you buy in quantities, these folks will usually give
you a better price. It doesn't hurt to ASK! Some of you builders
that are NEAR each other should get together and make a bulk buy and
then distribute the materials yourselves. Remember, cheap prices are
nice!
Take care and keep pounding those rivets! :)
Dave Talley
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear elastomers |
Thanks Jesse.
Rob.
On Sep 12, 2005, at 9:44 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> No, we didn't have the engine on. It would be pretty hard to work on
> that
> with the engine on. The suggestion of climbing on the engine mount and
> pushing against the ceiling would probably work as well, and it would
> certainly be better for pictures for the builder's log. Either way, it
> should work. It does take a lot of pressure to compress them, which
> is the
> way you want it.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
> Sent: Sunday, September 11, 2005 7:31 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>
>
> Thanks for the reply. I will try it. Did you have the engine on the
> mount at the time you lifted the tail?
>
> Thanks, Rob.
>
> On Sep 10, 2005, at 5:54 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>>
>> We did it by lifting on the tail. That give you the necessary
>> leverage to
>> compress the rubbers and get the nut installed.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> W: 352-465-4545
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
>> Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 11:18 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
>>
>>
>> Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I
>> am
>> having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
>> even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
>> before the clamp bend and wants to give.
>>
>> I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
>> identified but is the only part that fits under it.
>>
>> Thanks. Ro.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to punch a
small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle (use the one with
a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air. This blows from clean
side of the filter back into the oil galley and magically your filter will be
practically empty when you spin it off.
RV-10 #446
Bruce Case
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
regards the oil filter; be careful how you make the hole in the filter. shavings/fragments
that fall inside can give false impression of an engine making metal.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to punch
a small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle (use the one
with a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air. This blows from clean
side of the filter back into the oil galley and magically your filter will be
practically empty when you spin it off.
RV-10 #446
Bruce Case
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Anyone giving consideration of providing 110AC outlets in the 10. My plan involves a two plug 400W inverter mounted on the pilot side sub panel. It will be internally fused at 20A a plug and will be connected to the hot side of the starter relay and controlled by its own off/on switch and ultimately the master switch. That way I can run the laptop /cell phone/handheld radio or just charge their batteries. I have a similar system as an after thought in the Glastar and allows back up use for www.myairplane.com DVDs of enroute/IAPs and VFR sectionals without fear of battery failure. Of course the destination and alternates I print and carry in paper.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to punch
a small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle (use the one
with a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air. This blows from clean
side of the filter back into the oil galley and magically your filter will be
practically empty when you spin it off.
RV-10 #446
Bruce Case
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
Bruce,
is there not a chance, that if you do that, that also all the filtered
out particles are blown back into the engine again?
br Werner
Bruce Case wrote:
>
> The way I learned to changed a crowded oil filter in A&P school was to
> punch a small hole in the top of the filter and then use a blow nozzle
> (use the one with a rubber tip) to pressure the filter with shop air.
> This blows from clean side of the filter back into the oil galley and
> magically your filter will be practically empty when you spin it off.
>
> RV-10 #446
>
> Bruce Case
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
The outside wall of the oil filter is adjacent to the filtered or clean oil, blowing
back from this location only pushes clean oil back into the engine. Use
a sharp awl to pierce the filter and you will end up with a clean hole with no
fragments. This technique works well on any tight engine compartment which
is usually the case for any 6 cylinder engine.
Bruce Case
RV-10, #446
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil FIlter Adapter |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation - is
there a reason that remote oil filter setups aren't mentioned?
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case
Subject: RV10-List: Oil FIlter Adapter
The outside wall of the oil filter is adjacent to the filtered or clean
oil, blowing back from this location only pushes clean oil back into the
engine. Use a sharp awl to pierce the filter and you will end up with a
clean hole with no fragments. This technique works well on any tight
engine compartment which is usually the case for any 6 cylinder engine.
Bruce Case
RV-10, #446
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil FIlter Adapter |
> I notice a lot of discussion about working around the situation is there
> a reason that remote oil filter setups arent mentioned?
The "down sides" seem to include:
- more stuff that can fail (hoses, fittings, connections)
- more weight
- more up front expense
- more recurring expense (hoses)
- one more thing consuming firewall "real estate"
That said, they certainly seem to help with convenience. And one could
argue that by adding "surface area" to the entire system it won't hurt in
the oil cooling department.
FWIW, I use the poke & drain/funnel method when changing my "standard"
horizontally mounted oil filter. It's cheap, mess free, and introduces the
least amount of complexity and points of failure into the system.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: trimtab trailing edges |
I have been told by Don Forrest, #40114, that Van's does not endorse
the AEX method. You would indeed have to take the additional weight
into account when balancing your elevators, and its effect on the
flutter margin is unknown. As always, you must do your own risk
analysis and your mileage may vary.
PJ
#40032
Chris Hukill wrote:
> I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method
> (no Proseal) on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I
> like the idea of using the same technique for the trim tabs, however I
> wonder if the additional weight of the AEX and rivets out there could
> be a concern ? Is there a balance issue with trim tabs as well?
> Before I call Vans and ask them, I would sure like to hear anyone's
> opinion on this concern. Thanks
> Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
I have thought about making a 2006 calendar (RV-10 Style!)
Several questions:
(1) I would need to get some great pictures for use on the Calendar. These would
need to be high resolution digital if at all possible. I would also need to
have the photographers permision to use them on the calendar and a small paragraph
about the picture.
(2) Anyone care to list any important dates they would like to see highlighted
on the Calendar (First Flight Anniversaries, Holidays, etc.)
(3) Distribution? - PDF (Personal use only), Printed - Not stapled for wall hanging,
Printed / Stapled.
Comments?
Jim Combs
#40192, N312F - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Talley <RV10(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Filter Adapter |
Dan has several great points. One thing about the reoccurring
expenses; one can purchase teflon LIFE-TIME hoses. Check with John
at Airwolf. They're not cheap, but a one time buy is good. Also,
you can take them off every five years or so (yes, five years) and
have them re-certified if you don't trust them.
Take care,
David Talley
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient (and
out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both doors that
could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel?
Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my
builder, so would be nice to know now.
Thanks - John #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
>My plan involves a two plug 400W inverter mounted on the pilot side sub panel
You're kidding right? Even mid sized turbines don't have inverters anymore. All
those devices you mention ultimately use DC power. Why introduce the noise
of AC just to convert it back to DC? Wouldn't you be better off looking into
DC to DC converters of the appropriate voltages? Just trying to understand why.
William Curtis
http://members.core.com/~wcurtis/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | trimtab trailing edges |
That is what I did on mine, looks 10x better than the folded edge, in my
opinion of course.... Van's will tell you not to do it, like they do
with everything that is not exactly as on the plans..... They did not
test their airplane in this fashion so they will not give you any advice
except not to do it.
I did mine this way, I will be sure the control surfaces are balances
and I will check it for flutter during the first 40 hours. In the
slight chance it won't work, it is very easy to swap out the trim
tabs....
P.S. - a lot of the -9 guys did it too, and I have never heard of any
issues. Maybe you want to cross post on the -9 list and ask them
specifically.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Subject: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges
I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method (no
Proseal) on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I like the
idea of using the same technique for the trim tabs, however I wonder if
the additional weight of the AEX and rivets out there could be a concern
? Is there a balance issue with trim tabs as well? Before I call Vans
and ask them, I would sure like to hear anyone's opinion on this
concern. Thanks
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage building question |
On page 29-12 on the left inset it shows the F-1042-EL to be riveted to
the F-1040-L. The picture does not show this, but there are some rivets
for some nut plates and one of the rivets is shadowed by the F-1040-EL.
I was hoping to install the nut plates prior to the riveting the
F=1-42-EL to the F-1040-L, but I can not seem to find what size nut
plates and what they are used for? I assume there is a cover plate or
something that goes over this, but could not find anything in the plans.
I looked up on some builders web sites without much luck either.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse wiring question |
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the
IP) to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center
area, down the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting
my floors riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area
that would need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I believe it would be easy to put the microswitch just on the front
side of the vertical doorpost on the front of the door, and have it
click up when the door latch pin is extended all the way in
to the locked position. Then you'd have a warning if the door wasn't
latched tight.
In fact, I was thinking that instead of adding a cabin lock
that would cause a chelton thief to wreck my entire plane
to try to get to it, I'd just install a big loud a$$ horn
that would go off if someone opened the door without
deactivating it. You could then either use a remote key
FOB or an externally mounted keyed security electrical switch.
If it was loud and obnoxious enough, it should work as
well as a lock in preventing the theft.
Tim
GenGrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient
> (and out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both
> doors that could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel?
>
> Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my
> builder, so would be nice to know now.
>
> Thanks - John #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuse wiring question |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I am running mine down the sides. I did put in wiring conduit under the rear baggage
compartment.
I didn't want to run anything down the middle that might jam the controls.
-Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the IP) to
the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center area, down the
sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting my floors riveted down
but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area that would need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage building question |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
They are for a cover. They nutplates are K1000-08. The screws are called out
on page 35-7 515-8R8 and 509-8R*. But you are right, I have no idea where it
says to put those on. I faintly remember having the same problem.
Anyway, I see no problem in putting them on right now and you definately have to
do it before the 1040-EL.
-Scott
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage building question
On page 29-12 on the left inset it shows the F-1042-EL to be riveted to the F-1040-L.
The picture does not show this, but there are some rivets for some nut
plates and one of the rivets is shadowed by the F-1040-EL. I was hoping to install
the nut plates prior to the riveting the F1-42-EL to the F-1040-L, but
I can not seem to find what size nut plates and what they are used for? I assume
there is a cover plate or something that goes over this, but could not find
anything in the plans. I looked up on some builders web sites without much
luck either.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse wiring question |
MessageI am running all down the side panels so that they can be accessed later
if necessary. DC and high current on the left side and digital signals down the
right,
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Kraus
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 8:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the IP)
to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center area, down
the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting my floors riveted
down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area that would need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse wiring question |
I have run all my wiring down the sides. It can get crowded but seem
to have shorter runs. I had to enlarge the holes in the rear spar and
the cone bulkhead to fit a #2 Cable, a VOR antenna and a Marker Beacon
antenna.
On Sep 12, 2005, at 11:16 PM, Mike Kraus wrote:
> Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind
> the IP) to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10?=A0 Down through the
> center area, down the sides, or under the floors?=A0 I am interested in
> getting my floors riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal
> off any area that would need conduit.
>
> Thanks
> -Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | I have a question Scott. |
Hello scott. I am working on the door latches and have found the pins
to be way too long. I either have to cut the pins or provide a hole
for the rack in the opposite wall of the latch pocket. I looked at your
pictures and noticed that your pins are fully retracted with the latch
in a vertical position. This looks correct to me. I think that I can
only do this by providing four holes for the racks in each latch pocket
walls. What do you think?
Thanks, Rob.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: trimtab trailing edges |
Hi,what is a angle iron combination-ground rivet squeezer
sorry for the question ,Hugo
>
> From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> Date: 2005/09/12 Mon PM 10:59:09 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges
>
> That is what I did on mine, looks 10x better than the folded edge, in my
> opinion of course.... Van's will tell you not to do it, like they do
> with everything that is not exactly as on the plans..... They did not
> test their airplane in this fashion so they will not give you any advice
> except not to do it.
>
> I did mine this way, I will be sure the control surfaces are balances
> and I will check it for flutter during the first 40 hours. In the
> slight chance it won't work, it is very easy to swap out the trim
> tabs....
>
> P.S. - a lot of the -9 guys did it too, and I have never heard of any
> issues. Maybe you want to cross post on the -9 list and ask them
> specifically.
>
> -Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2005 11:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: trimtab trailing edges
>
>
> I used the combination angle iron, and ground rivet squeezer method (no
> Proseal) on my rudder trailing edge, and it came out perfect. I like the
> idea of using the same technique for the trim tabs, however I wonder if
> the additional weight of the AEX and rivets out there could be a concern
> ? Is there a balance issue with trim tabs as well? Before I call Vans
> and ask them, I would sure like to hear anyone's opinion on this
> concern. Thanks
> Chris Hukill
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Fuse wiring question |
We wired the entire plane after it was built, so all of the closed off areas
were already closed off. We ran CPVC conduit in the wings to push wires
through, but everything in the fuse we did with snap bushings. We made the
right side panel in the baggage compartment removable (nutplates instead of
rivets) and ran all of the wires down that side. We didn't run anything in
the center tunnel or under the seat or baggage floors. If you are
wondering, it wouldn't hurt to put some conduit in there just in case you
decide to wire through there.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse wiring question
Where is everyone running the wire runs from the firewall (or behind the IP)
to the wings and to the tail in the RV-10? Down through the center area,
down the sides, or under the floors? I am interested in getting my floors
riveted down but wanted to make sure I don't seal off any area that would
need conduit.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I
placed my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great
and many people think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and
reviewed the article that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different
props and he found that the Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended
Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was 200 mph. It sounds like Vic is
seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It isn't a huge speed
difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered the MT but
when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can switch
to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really
didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop
when I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great.
So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you.
My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I
really want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
This company makes some seriously wicked paints: http://alsacorp.com/chrome.htm, including one that replicates chrome to a T. I especially think the MultiChrome would rock on a spinner. Check it out but watch out for sticker shock. You thought that some chromatic paints were expensive. I may incorporate some of their stranger paints for trim and will probably order their sample pack shortly before.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 tanks
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Prop and question about polished spinner
Tim and others, I decided to order the Hartzell blended airfoil prop. I placed
my order last week. I think the MT prop would have been great and many people
think the smoothness is worth 5 mph but I went back and reviewed the article
that Van's wrote a few years ago on the different props and he found that the
Hartzell had speeds of 205 mph, the blended Hartzell was 208 mph, and the MT was
200 mph. It sounds like Vic is seeing a decrease of about 8mph as well. It
isn't a huge speed difference and if the MT was $5800 I would have still ordered
the MT but when you pay $2300 more you expect more. I also feel that I can
switch to the MT down the line if things are more proven by then but I really
didn't want to be one of the firsts and then be disappointed in my prop when
I know the performance of the Hartzell will be great.
So, I am back in the two blade club with most of you.
My question is now, who sells a nice polished spinner for this prop? I really
want a polished spinner. I am having my step chromed to match.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator mismatch |
Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align with the other after hanging
them on the horizontal stabilizer. I understand that the horns might not align
( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the elevators themselves should be misaligned.
If I fair the elevator counterbalances to the horizontal on both sides
outboard and lay a straight edge across the trailing edge of both elevators,
there is about a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging slightly low.
I am perplexed!! I did not create the hinge points, It was all match holed construction
and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the skins. I dont know
how the left elevator seems to tuck low as it nears the inbd end. I did discover
that a slight pressure down on the right elev horn and slight up press on the
left nearly brings them into alignment, but this obviously adds a preload that
doesn't seem right. Any thoughts/ suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)AOL.COM |
Maybe I can make the switch do double duty.....
Can you take a picture of where how this would fit?
Thanks
In a message dated 9/12/2005 10:45:38 PM Central Standard Time,
Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
I believe it would be easy to put the microswitch just on the front
side of the vertical doorpost on the front of the door, and have it
click up when the door latch pin is extended all the way in
to the locked position. Then you'd have a warning if the door wasn't
latched tight.
In fact, I was thinking that instead of adding a cabin lock
that would cause a chelton thief to wreck my entire plane
to try to get to it, I'd just install a big loud a$$ horn
that would go off if someone opened the door without
deactivating it. You could then either use a remote key
FOB or an externally mounted keyed security electrical switch.
If it was loud and obnoxious enough, it should work as
well as a lock in preventing the theft.
Tim
GenGrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient
> (and out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both
> doors that could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel?
>
> Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my
> builder, so would be nice to know now.
>
> Thanks - John #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator mismatch |
Mark,
I had a small amount of difference in my elevators
also. I called Van's about it, their response was "if
it's less than 3/4" don't worry about it, just build
the airplane!" Soon after I was at Van's and eyeballed
their elevators very closely. They didn't match
perfectly either.
Steve
--- Mark Chamberlain <10flyer(at)verizon.net> wrote:
> Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align
> with the other after hanging them on the horizontal
> stabilizer. I understand that the horns might not
> align ( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the
> elevators themselves should be misaligned. If I fair
> the elevator counterbalances to the horizontal on
> both sides outboard and lay a straight edge across
> the trailing edge of both elevators, there is about
> a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging
> slightly low. I am perplexed!! I did not create the
> hinge points, It was all match holed construction
> and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the
> skins. I dont know how the left elevator seems to
> tuck low as it nears the inbd end. I did discover
> that a slight pressure down on the right elev horn
> and slight up press on the left nearly brings them
> into alignment, but this obviously adds a preload
> that doesn't seem right. Any thoughts/ suggestions
> appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator mismatch |
Mark Chamberlain wrote:
> Has anyone had one elevator trailing edge not align with the other
> after hanging them on the horizontal stabilizer. I understand that the
> horns might not align ( per plans ), but I'm not sure that the
> elevators themselves should be misaligned. If I fair the elevator
> counterbalances to the horizontal on both sides outboard and lay a
> straight edge across the trailing edge of both elevators, there is
> about a 3/8 inch diff. with the left elevator hanging slightly low. I
> am perplexed!! I did not create the hinge points, It was all match
> holed construction and I used plenty of clecoes while riveteing the
> skins. I dont know how the left elevator seems to tuck low as it nears
> the inbd end. I did discover that a slight pressure down on the right
> elev horn and slight up press on the left nearly brings them into
> alignment, but this obviously adds a preload that doesn't seem right.
> Any thoughts/ suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Mark (40016)
I may not be following you, but as i recall, the plans say to allign the
elevator trailing edges with the HS and then to clamp the horns and
drill, as you mention 9and as I also found in my case0 the horns don't
align, but the whole process is designed to ensure that the trailing
edges are aligned. What am I missing?
Deems Davis # 406
waiting on wings to ship
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
What I used was some 1" ratchet straps off of the engine mount. 2
worked but a third would even be better. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: RV10-List: Gear elastomers
Can anyone tell me how you installed the nose gear rubber donuts? I am
having a heck of the time squeezing them to install the top bolt. I
even use a clamp and some wood blocking but cannot squeeze them enough
before the clamp bend and wants to give.
I am using one aluminum washer under the top collar. This part is not
identified but is the only part that fits under it.
Thanks. Ro.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
I ran across a great POH for a -6A here...
<http://rv.supermatrix.com/frame1-docs.html>
Any of the flying -10s have a good POH example yet?
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
I'm working on the wing wiring. Assuming I place the strobe power supply in
the tailcone near the battery, how long of a wire run should I plan on for
the wing tip strobes? I'm using Whelen strobes with shielded cable, any
problems running that with the rest of the power supply wires through
conduit in the wings? Coax for nav antenna will be run seperately.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
John,
Your wiring sounds a lot like mine. I installed 4-pin molex quick disconnects
at the wing root for the strobes. I want to say it took 13-14 feet from tip to
root including service loop. I ran my wires all in a single conduit - including
nav. It's unlikely that shielded wire will radiate much except at the point
where it's been cut.
Regards,
Jay
40011
> From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Strobe wiring
>
>
> I'm working on the wing wiring. Assuming I place the strobe power supply in
> the tailcone near the battery, how long of a wire run should I plan on for
> the wing tip strobes? I'm using Whelen strobes with shielded cable, any
> problems running that with the rest of the power supply wires through
> conduit in the wings? Coax for nav antenna will be run seperately.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
I have the Whelen stip and tail strobes connected to a single power supply that
is located just behind the baggage bulkhead in my -7A. There are Amp MateNLok
connectors at the wing roots, and the wiring runs in a separate conduit from
the Nav antenna. The systems works perfectly without any electrical pop or whine
(unlike my C182 strobe setup).
Doesn't answer the cable length question, but just a confirmation that the long
strobe wire setup if done by the directions (ground the shield at the power supply,
leave it ungrounded at the strobe end) works great.
Dan Masys
RV-10 HS
RV-7A flying
> > I'm working on the wing wiring. Assuming I place the strobe power supply in
> > the tailcone near the battery, how long of a wire run should I plan on for
> > the wing tip strobes? I'm using Whelen strobes with shielded cable, any
> > problems running that with the rest of the power supply wires through
> > conduit in the wings? Coax for nav antenna will be run seperately.
> >
> > John Hasbrouck
> > #40264
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv(at)amsat.org> |
| Subject: | Wheel Base and Tread |
OK, I'm planning my shop which will go in the back yard and I'm going to
have to rebuild the fence and put in a new gate. Can anyone tell me the
width between the outside of the main tires, and the distance from the
nosewheel to the mains? I need to know how wide to make the shop doorway
and the gate. I don't know when the kit will be ordered, but the tools are
slowly being acquired and the planning is underway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Base and Tread |
Figure on 8' wheelbase and 7' from main to nose gear.
On Sep 15, 2005, at 8:52 PM, Jack Sargeant wrote:
>
> OK, I'm planning my shop which will go in the back yard and I'm going
> to
> have to rebuild the fence and put in a new gate. Can anyone tell me
> the
> width between the outside of the main tires, and the distance from the
> nosewheel to the mains? I need to know how wide to make the shop
> doorway
> and the gate. I don't know when the kit will be ordered, but the
> tools are
> slowly being acquired and the planning is underway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wheel Base and Tread |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
While we're on the subject of measurements - does anybody have the
height to the bottom of the fuselage when the plane is on its gear with
tires inflated?
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheel Base and Tread
Figure on 8' wheelbase and 7' from main to nose gear.
On Sep 15, 2005, at 8:52 PM, Jack Sargeant wrote:
>
> OK, I'm planning my shop which will go in the back yard and I'm going
> to
> have to rebuild the fence and put in a new gate. Can anyone tell me
> the
> width between the outside of the main tires, and the distance from the
> nosewheel to the mains? I need to know how wide to make the shop
> doorway
> and the gate. I don't know when the kit will be ordered, but the
> tools are
> slowly being acquired and the planning is underway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Base and Tread |
Also make the opening 9'0" high.
Steve 40212
--- Rob Kermanj wrote:
>
>
> Figure on 8' wheelbase and 7' from main to nose
> gear.
>
>
> On Sep 15, 2005, at 8:52 PM, Jack Sargeant wrote:
>
>
> >
> > OK, I'm planning my shop which will go in the back
> yard and I'm going
> > to
> > have to rebuild the fence and put in a new gate.
> Can anyone tell me
> > the
> > width between the outside of the main tires, and
> the distance from the
> > nosewheel to the mains? I need to know how wide
> to make the shop
> > doorway
> > and the gate. I don't know when the kit will be
> ordered, but the
> > tools are
> > slowly being acquired and the planning is
> underway.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Vans is working on system now. You may contact them about the delivery
time. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Subject: RV10-List: CABIN DOORS
For those who have already fitted the cabin doors, is there a convenient
(and out of the way) place to put a micro switch (and wiring) on both
doors that could be tied into a "door ajar" light on the panel?
Haven't yet gotten my QB kit, but finishing up my panel specs with my
builder, so would be nice to know now.
Thanks - John #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
I am running mine in one conduit. I asked Dan Checkoway if he had any issues since
his are run the same and he said it worked fine. There are some rules regarding
the grounding that were already addressed such as grounding the sheilds
at the power supply not at the strobe. I think the use of RG-400 which has a double
sheild will also help to eliminate an RF interference and if I have problems
I'll just drill off the bottom skins and run new conduit NOT!!!
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv(at)amsat.org> |
| Subject: | Wheel Base and Tread |
I'm going to guess that you mean 8' tread (Wheel to wheel of the main gear),
and 8' wheelbase (Nose gear to mains) as it would be for cars and trucks.
Thanks for the info. I think that I will have (just) enough room. One tree
may have to go, but while I really like its shade it is too close to the
porch and overhangs the roof!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob Kermanj
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wheel Base and Tread
Figure on 8' wheelbase and 7' from main to nose gear.
On Sep 15, 2005, at 8:52 PM, Jack Sargeant wrote:
>
> OK, I'm planning my shop which will go in the back yard and I'm going
> to
> have to rebuild the fence and put in a new gate. Can anyone tell me
> the
> width between the outside of the main tires, and the distance from the
> nosewheel to the mains? I need to know how wide to make the shop
> doorway
> and the gate. I don't know when the kit will be ordered, but the
> tools are
> slowly being acquired and the planning is underway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Bibb" <rebibb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
For what its worth - when I built my RV-4 originally I had Aeroflash
powerpacks in both wings - ran all wires together unshielded. I had some
whine in the headset when they were on but eliminated that when I isolated
all audio grounds to a single point.
If youy follow the recommendations from Bob at Aeroelectric and isolate the
grounds for your audio system you shouldn't have any problem. There is a
good article on his site (www.aeroelectric.com) that addresses this topic I
seem to recall.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Strobe wiring
>
> I am running mine in one conduit. I asked Dan Checkoway if he had any
issues since his are run the same and he said it worked fine. There are some
rules regarding the grounding that were already addressed such as grounding
the sheilds at the power supply not at the strobe. I think the use of RG-400
which has a double sheild will also help to eliminate an RF interference and
if I have problems I'll just drill off the bottom skins and run new conduit
NOT!!!
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
Yup, good advice Richard,
I think we tend to get into grounding issues when trying to reinvent the wheel.
Bob's book and the Aerolectric matronics list are a great resource, I don't recommend
getting the Aerolectric stuff dumped to your email cause there is lots
of stuff every day but the archives are packed with good info. Bob's web site
has some really good talking papers as well, print them in color so they look
nice on the nightstand next to the bed....just for a laugh...how many of group
have SOME kinda aviation literature on the nightstand that understanding better
halfs put up with until it gets about 6 inches high?
Rick S.
40185
Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Guys, I am sure we have been here before. Just my .02$
How much does about 30ft x2 (for each wing) and another 20ft (for the tail)
of shielded cables for these strobes weigh? There is an option of running
regular 18g wire and having a strobe power supply in the wing tip and the
root of the tail. These PW supplies weigh only a pound and there is no issue
of interference or running high voltage lines past tanks or other wires (com
antenna wires or etc)
Is this a reasonable route? I am not an engineer of any sort, just a dumb
homebuilder.
I think there will be a weight saving which can be allocated to other stuff.
Mani Ravee
Indianapolis, KUMP
#40339. N528AR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Bibb
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Strobe wiring
For what its worth - when I built my RV-4 originally I had Aeroflash
powerpacks in both wings - ran all wires together unshielded. I had some
whine in the headset when they were on but eliminated that when I isolated
all audio grounds to a single point.
If youy follow the recommendations from Bob at Aeroelectric and isolate the
grounds for your audio system you shouldn't have any problem. There is a
good article on his site (www.aeroelectric.com) that addresses this topic I
seem to recall.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Strobe wiring
>
> I am running mine in one conduit. I asked Dan Checkoway if he had any
issues since his are run the same and he said it worked fine. There are some
rules regarding the grounding that were already addressed such as grounding
the sheilds at the power supply not at the strobe. I think the use of RG-400
which has a double sheild will also help to eliminate an RF interference and
if I have problems I'll just drill off the bottom skins and run new conduit
NOT!!!
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe wiring |
I have a reduced size (8 1/2 x 11) set of plans that I take everywhere.
Larry
40356
wings
Rick wrote:
>....just for a laugh...how many of group have SOME kinda aviation literature on
the nightstand that understanding better halfs put up with until it gets about
6 inches high?
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Mani,
Absolute good point, I have a coil still in the supply bin and it's not too heavy,
not much more or less than the power supply. My main reason is I have a cheap
side that says the wire is cheaper than three power supplies....and since
I have wing tip antennas, Com 2, Nav and marker beacon I figure if it interferes
it would do it with the power supply at the tip as well. Good hanger conversation
though. If I get any problems I'll pull my coax and install conventional
Comants on the belly (already using one for Com 1) and whiskers in the tail
for Nav. Everyone I talked to that is using my proposed/their setup has not had
any problems. I am not concerned about the fuel tank/high voltage issue. It
would take a lot of things to go wrong for my stobe wiring to get to my tanks....but
yeah I know, Murphy rides on everyones shoulder.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Connector for Trim Servo? |
Hi all,
What connector is everyone using to connect to the trim servo?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Tank info needed |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
0.15 HTML_TEXT_AFTER_BODY BODY": rv10-list(at)matronics.com
This is for anyone that has their wings on and sitting on the main gear. I am
going with the Aircraft Extras optical sensor for a backup to the fuel gauge/totalizer.
In order to put this in the tank I have to replicate, fairly closely,
the position the tanks will be sitting in straight and level flight. So
what I need is the relative angles in X and Y from the forward outboard edge of
the tanks when the aircraft is level. Readings from a swing protractor should
be close enough but an electronic level would be great.
These things are a bit of a catch 22 as you need to be able to put water into
the tanks in order to get the sensor to indicate at a known quantity but you
can't get to the business end of the tank once they are closed up. You could
wait to put the floats in but I also don't know what kind of error, if any, the
float may introduce. So I will be putting these in the rear baffle below the
fuel cap. I'll share the exact location with the group so anyone else using
these won't have to go through the trouble.
Thanks,
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Connector for Trim Servo? |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Connect to what? If you are talking at the servo pigtail to the cable, a subD works great. Bob has an article on how to do this on his site. http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Tanks
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Connector for Trim Servo?
Hi all,
What connector is everyone using to connect to the trim servo?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian" <av8er(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone Attachment |
In step four of page 32-3 (tailcone attach) the instructions say to "match drill
the four #30 holes in the aft end of the mid fuse longeron into the tailcone
longeron". Problem is my QB didn't have these drilled from the factory and I
cannot locate in the plans anywhere the dimensions of these. Can anyone point
me to the section/page of the dimensions?
Brian
#40308 (trying to join the tailcone to the fuselage!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | bolt designation help! |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
hey all -
let me preface this question by admitting that i might be an idiot. ok then.
i'm getting to the end of riveting together the tailcone, and there are a couple
of bolts that need installation. my question - what does the "A" designation
mean? example: AN3-6A. 6A? what's the difference between AN3-6 and AN3-6A?
i searched the archives and couldn't figure it out. also looked through
the standard aircraft handbook etc... help anyone?
thanks
cj
#40410 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolt designation help! |
A indicates absent . that is the drilled shank is not there. Should be
secured by a fibrous or metal locknut.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Subject: RV10-List: bolt designation help!
hey all -
let me preface this question by admitting that i might be an idiot. ok
then. i'm getting to the end of riveting together the tailcone, and there
are a couple of bolts that need installation. my question - what does the
"A" designation mean? example: AN3-6A. 6A? what's the difference between
AN3-6 and AN3-6A? i searched the archives and couldn't figure it out. also
looked through the standard aircraft handbook etc... help anyone?
thanks
cj
#40410 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RE: bolt designation help! |
The "A" indicates there is no hole drilled in the threaded part of the bolt.
If you have an Aircraft Spruce catalog I think it discusses this as well to
back me up.
AN3-6 - hole
AN3-6A - no hole
Happy Bolting,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Johnston [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Chris Johnston
Subject: bolt designation help!
hey all -
let me preface this question by admitting that i might be an idiot. ok
then. i'm getting to the end of riveting together the tailcone, and there
are a couple of bolts that need installation. my question - what does the
"A" designation mean? example: AN3-6A. 6A? what's the difference between
AN3-6 and AN3-6A? i searched the archives and couldn't figure it out. also
looked through the standard aircraft handbook etc... help anyone?
thanks
cj
#40410 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bolt designation help! |
Another suggestion. Get an aviation mechanics handbook. All the part number
digits are explained as well as all the drill sizes and other interesting
info like the size of a hole that you are going drill so that you can tap
with new threads.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Subject: RV10-List: bolt designation help!
hey all -
let me preface this question by admitting that i might be an idiot. ok
then. i'm getting to the end of riveting together the tailcone, and there
are a couple of bolts that need installation. my question - what does the
"A" designation mean? example: AN3-6A. 6A? what's the difference between
AN3-6 and AN3-6A? i searched the archives and couldn't figure it out. also
looked through the standard aircraft handbook etc... help anyone?
thanks
cj
#40410 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | RE: bolt designation help! |
Here's the text from Aircraft Spruce's website regarding the bolts as a
further reference:
Hex head aircraft bolts are made of high-strength type 4037 or 8740 alloy
steel (type 8740 is most commonly used). The bolts are centerless ground and
threaded after heat treatment. Minimum tensile strength 125,000 PSI. Cadmium
plated per specification QQ-P-416A, Type II, Class 3. Available with shank
drilled for cotter pin or undrilled for stop nut application, and with or
without drilled head for safety wire. Specify bolts to have undrilled shank
by adding letter "A" after the dash number. For bolts with drilled head add
letter "H" after the AN number. See illustrated examples. The length of AN
aircraft bolts is measured from under the head to the end of the shank. The
"grip" is the unthreaded portion of the shank. See table for conversion of
length and/or grip to proper AN callout.
Marcus
40286 (working on the workshop, outgrown the garage)
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Johnston [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Chris Johnston
Subject: bolt designation help!
hey all -
let me preface this question by admitting that i might be an idiot. ok
then. i'm getting to the end of riveting together the tailcone, and there
are a couple of bolts that need installation. my question - what does the
"A" designation mean? example: AN3-6A. 6A? what's the difference between
AN3-6 and AN3-6A? i searched the archives and couldn't figure it out. also
looked through the standard aircraft handbook etc... help anyone?
thanks
cj
#40410 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Attachment |
I'm a bit fuzzy on this already, but, I think those won't be
drilled at all, and you just need to lay out a good 4 hole
pattern. Just leave a good end edge distance on the rear one,
and a little working space behind the bulkhead on the front one,
and then space the other 2 holes evenly. I think you'll end up
with something in the 1" spacing arena or so. Other than
making sure you have strength there, nothing else makes it
critical one way or the other.
Tim
Brian wrote:
> In step four of page 32-3 (tailcone attach) the instructions say to
> "match drill the four #30 holes in the aft end of the mid fuse longeron
> into the tailcone longeron". Problem is my QB didn't have these drilled
> from the factory and I cannot locate in the plans anywhere the
> dimensions of these. Can anyone point me to the section/page of the
> dimensions?
>
> Brian
> #40308 (trying to join the tailcone to the fuselage!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Attachment |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Interestingly, this is the second time in the last couple weeks this question has
come up.
The initial holes are match drilled using the F1046-B template on page 29-3. They
are then match drilled to the tailcone sections and enlarged on page 32-3
step 4.
Tim: this appears to be a potential gotcha for QB fuselage folks.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone Attachment
I'm a bit fuzzy on this already, but, I think those won't be
drilled at all, and you just need to lay out a good 4 hole
pattern. Just leave a good end edge distance on the rear one,
and a little working space behind the bulkhead on the front one,
and then space the other 2 holes evenly. I think you'll end up
with something in the 1" spacing arena or so. Other than
making sure you have strength there, nothing else makes it
critical one way or the other.
Tim
Brian wrote:
> In step four of page 32-3 (tailcone attach) the instructions say to
> "match drill the four #30 holes in the aft end of the mid fuse longeron
> into the tailcone longeron". Problem is my QB didn't have these drilled
> from the factory and I cannot locate in the plans anywhere the
> dimensions of these. Can anyone point me to the section/page of the
> dimensions?
>
> Brian
> #40308 (trying to join the tailcone to the fuselage!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Attachment |
Funny this should come up now. Here's my recent (1 week ago) email to
Van's on this topic. I got a "that's fine" response from Van's.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RV-10 QB F-1046 aft end bolt holes
Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2005 15:21:23 -0400
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Vans,
Please see picture 1, attached. This is the aft end of F-1046L, the mid
fuselage longeron. Per plans page 32-3, upper balloon, there need to be
four holes in the aft portion of this longeron for four AN-5 bolts. Per
plans page 29-2, those four holes should be drilled with the aid of
F-1046B, longeron bending template. I didn't receive F-1046B (because I
have the QB fuselage, I presume).
I called a local builder and got approximate hole location measurements
from him. He'd already thrown away his template, but was able to give
me approximate dimensions by measuring the bolts in place.
I consulted my RV-6 plans for similar situations and ended up with the
hole pattern shown in photo 2, attached. The hole distance from the
inner edge of the longeron is from 5/16" to 3/8". Hole distance from
the aft end of the longeron is 3/8". Inter-hole spacing (on centers) is
11/16" to 3/4".
Is this solution acceptable?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Comcast" <kenbpeck(at)comcast.net> |
Hey there!
I'm building a -10 up north of Orlando, but get down to Ft. Lauderdale a few
times a year either on business or to visit my brother. Would love to stop
by if you're interested in meeting another -10 builder.
My next confirmed trip south is week of Dec 5, but will probably come down
at least once before then.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Ken Peck
31 Rosedown Blvd
Debary, FL
386-846-4184
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating
> (LED)beacon in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of
> the rudder,any body install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
> Hugo
> I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft
> >Lauderdale,Today I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase
> direct)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Comcast" <kenbpeck(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2006 Calendar |
Gosh, a great inspirational tool for those of us in the process! I'd gladly
cough up a few $$ for something I could put on my office wall!
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: RV10-List: 2006 Calendar
>
> I have thought about making a 2006 calendar (RV-10 Style!)
>
> Several questions:
>
> (1) I would need to get some great pictures for use on the Calendar.
> These would need to be high resolution digital if at all possible. I
> would also need to have the photographers permision to use them on the
> calendar and a small paragraph about the picture.
>
> (2) Anyone care to list any important dates they would like to see
> highlighted on the Calendar (First Flight Anniversaries, Holidays, etc.)
>
> (3) Distribution? - PDF (Personal use only), Printed - Not stapled for
> wall hanging, Printed / Stapled.
>
> Comments?
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192, N312F - Fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high! |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
I have a question for the list. I cleco'ed on the upper deck and
switch/breaker panel to the fuse yesterday and tried to fit the NACA
vents and the expensive aluminum vents I bought from Van's. The Vent
cutouts in the skin are too high on the side skin and hit the underside
of the switch/breaker panel. Even if you trim the naca vent as much as
possible it is still not enough. Van's should have lowered the skin
cutout another 1/4" to 3"8", than it would have fit. Now I am not sure
what I am going to do. I was thinking of ordered the NACA vent pieces
from Van's for the RV-9 which come in two pieces and then you join them
together with 2" scat tube and clamps. This might make it longer and
require a different mounting scheme. This sucks that at builder 40250,
this kind of stuff isn't already corrected. Any thoughts?
Ray Doerr
40250
Engine and Prop arrived.
Working on Finishing Kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high! |
This caught me by surprise too. This is what I did There is an angle
aluminum that is riveted to the side skin like an RV-9A with the vent bolted
to it, a flex duct that connects the two.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high!
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
I have a question for the list. I cleco'ed on the upper deck and
switch/breaker panel to the fuse yesterday and tried to fit the NACA
vents and the expensive aluminum vents I bought from Van's. The Vent
cutouts in the skin are too high on the side skin and hit the underside
of the switch/breaker panel. Even if you trim the naca vent as much as
possible it is still not enough. Van's should have lowered the skin
cutout another 1/4" to 3"8", than it would have fit. Now I am not sure
what I am going to do. I was thinking of ordered the NACA vent pieces
from Van's for the RV-9 which come in two pieces and then you join them
together with 2" scat tube and clamps. This might make it longer and
require a different mounting scheme. This sucks that at builder 40250,
this kind of stuff isn't already corrected. Any thoughts?
Ray Doerr
40250
Engine and Prop arrived.
Working on Finishing Kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
We have the normal Whelen strobe power supply in the tail and run the wire
that came with the kit from Van's. I think we get a tiny bit of noise when
the strobes are on, but it is hardly noticeable. We also have a Nav in one
wingtip and a Com in the other. It's certainly not bad enough to be a
problem.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Strobe wiring
Mani,
Absolute good point, I have a coil still in the supply bin and it's not too
heavy, not much more or less than the power supply. My main reason is I have
a cheap side that says the wire is cheaper than three power supplies....and
since I have wing tip antennas, Com 2, Nav and marker beacon I figure if it
interferes it would do it with the power supply at the tip as well. Good
hanger conversation though. If I get any problems I'll pull my coax and
install conventional Comants on the belly (already using one for Com 1) and
whiskers in the tail for Nav. Everyone I talked to that is using my
proposed/their setup has not had any problems. I am not concerned about the
fuel tank/high voltage issue. It would take a lot of things to go wrong for
my stobe wiring to get to my tanks....but yeah I know, Murphy rides on
everyones shoulder.
Rick S.
40185
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Connector for Trim Servo? |
We used a 9-pin D-sub connector from Radio Shack. We ended up going with
relay decks, though, which makes wiring the servo, the indicator, the switch
in the panel and the switch on the control stick a little bit of a pain,
really almost defeating the purpose for making them a quick disconnect. For
the Aileron and Rudder trims we used the same relay deck (that Van's sells)
and just soldered/crimped the wires.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Connector for Trim Servo?
Hi all,
What connector is everyone using to connect to the trim servo?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
Ken,
If you are north of Orlando, then you are not far from us. You would we
welcome to stop by X35 and look at our -10. It gets back today from a trip
to Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee and North Carolina. It will probably have
the better part of 75 hours on it by then. It's been running great. It
might inspire you to keep up the work.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
Hey there!
I'm building a -10 up north of Orlando, but get down to Ft. Lauderdale a few
times a year either on business or to visit my brother. Would love to stop
by if you're interested in meeting another -10 builder.
My next confirmed trip south is week of Dec 5, but will probably come down
at least once before then.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Ken Peck
31 Rosedown Blvd
Debary, FL
386-846-4184
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating
> (LED)beacon in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part of
> the rudder,any body install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the VS?
> Hugo
> I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft
> >Lauderdale,Today I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase
> direct)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
I will be at the MAE airport for a week starting on Wednesday. Are there
any RV-10 builders in the area?
Noel
325HP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
Absolutely! My home no. is 772-460-3907. You can reach me at my home
no. anytime. What is your phone no.?
Rob.
On Sep 18, 2005, at 9:08 PM, Comcast wrote:
>
> Hey there!
>
> I'm building a -10 up north of Orlando, but get down to Ft. Lauderdale
> a few times a year either on business or to visit my brother. Would
> love to stop by if you're interested in meeting another -10 builder.
>
> My next confirmed trip south is week of Dec 5, but will probably come
> down at least once before then.
>
> Look forward to hearing from you.
>
> Ken Peck
> 31 Rosedown Blvd
> Debary, FL
> 386-846-4184
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, September 09, 2005 6:56 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
>
>>
>> I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating
>> (LED)beacon in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part
>> of the rudder,any body install traditional VOR antennas at the top of
>> the VS?
>> Hugo
>> I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft
>> >Lauderdale,Today I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase
>> direct)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high! |
I believe the hole placement on the side skin was based on the smaller
1" vents. The feeling was, as I understand it, that the 1" vents did
not allow enough air flow. The 2" vents fit but you have to trim off one
ear. This makes it nice and close to the panel if you want to make a
cover that will hide everything except the vent itself. The cover will
end up right next to the lower edge of the panel. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Subject: RV10-List: NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high!
-->
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
I have a question for the list. I cleco'ed on the upper deck and
switch/breaker panel to the fuse yesterday and tried to fit the NACA
vents and the expensive aluminum vents I bought from Van's. The Vent
cutouts in the skin are too high on the side skin and hit the underside
of the switch/breaker panel. Even if you trim the naca vent as much as
possible it is still not enough. Van's should have lowered the skin
cutout another 1/4" to 3"8", than it would have fit. Now I am not sure
what I am going to do. I was thinking of ordered the NACA vent pieces
from Van's for the RV-9 which come in two pieces and then you join them
together with 2" scat tube and clamps. This might make it longer and
require a different mounting scheme. This sucks that at builder 40250,
this kind of stuff isn't already corrected. Any thoughts?
Ray Doerr
40250
Engine and Prop arrived.
Working on Finishing Kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | tailcone riveting!! |
Hey all -
First, thanks to everyone who responded to my bolt ident query
yesterday. This list rocks. Now the new question: when riveting the
top skin on the tailcone, is it ok to climb in there to buck? I know
I've seen pics of people inside the tailcone bucking and goofing around,
but I'm scared of bending j-stiffners, dinging the skins, or otherwise
screwing stuff up. Thoughts?
Thanks
cj
August 28, 2005 - September 19, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-aq