RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ar
September 19, 2005 - October 07, 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high! |
Randy,
I don't think that the standard panel seems to be as good of a
clearance as yours. I did some playing this weekend and I
just don't think that even if I cut an ear off that it has
a chance of fitting. I chopped off the whole vent rearward
half, and it takes quite a bit more space for it to fit under
the panel. Probably at least as much as the top flange of
the vent takes up.
I think the only solutions that I can think of for people with
standard panels will be smaller vents or moving the outlet
somewhere else and connecting with duct.
That said, Van's REALLY needs to make sure they adjust their
CNC punch to either lower, or elminate that hole altogether.
Ray is builder 40250...which is quite a few kits that are
going to be affected. In my opinion, they should just
provide a template and let the builder cut the hole. Then
it'll go wherever it needs to for that builders panel and plan.
I myself had this same dilema and basically just pushed off
completing that section until I find the best solution.
Ray, I'll keep in touch and maybe we'll figure something good
out. The idea that Noel gave out sounds pretty good. I think
I'm going to explore what shape of bended aluminum would be
needed to add a small mounting panel that blends in well with
the rest of the plane. The only issue for me is that if it
rivets thru the skin, I'll have to act quick, because I plan
to paint soon.
Tim
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> I believe the hole placement on the side skin was based on the smaller
> 1" vents. The feeling was, as I understand it, that the 1" vents did
> not allow enough air flow. The 2" vents fit but you have to trim off one
> ear. This makes it nice and close to the panel if you want to make a
> cover that will hide everything except the vent itself. The cover will
> end up right next to the lower edge of the panel. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
> [NTK]
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 6:46 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high!
>
> -->
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
>
>
> I have a question for the list. I cleco'ed on the upper deck and
> switch/breaker panel to the fuse yesterday and tried to fit the NACA
> vents and the expensive aluminum vents I bought from Van's. The Vent
> cutouts in the skin are too high on the side skin and hit the underside
> of the switch/breaker panel. Even if you trim the naca vent as much as
> possible it is still not enough. Van's should have lowered the skin
> cutout another 1/4" to 3"8", than it would have fit. Now I am not sure
> what I am going to do. I was thinking of ordered the NACA vent pieces
> from Van's for the RV-9 which come in two pieces and then you join them
> together with 2" scat tube and clamps. This might make it longer and
> require a different mounting scheme. This sucks that at builder 40250,
> this kind of stuff isn't already corrected. Any thoughts?
>
>
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> Engine and Prop arrived.
> Working on Finishing Kit.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailcone riveting!! |
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>
>Hey all -
>First, thanks to everyone who responded to my bolt ident query
>yesterday. This list rocks. Now the new question: when riveting the
>top skin on the tailcone, is it ok to climb in there to buck? I know
>I've seen pics of people inside the tailcone bucking and goofing around,
>but I'm scared of bending j-stiffners, dinging the skins, or otherwise
>screwing stuff up. Thoughts?
>
>Thanks
>cj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
What I did was to put a LOT of blankets,quilts,towels on the bottom skin
to protect against damaging things, I piled on a bunch, and then advised
my daughter (my rivet bucker) to try and avoid stepping/kneeling
directly where the stiffeners/bulkheads were, I sweated this also, but
it turned out to be a non event, the padding seemed to do the trick
with no damage.
Deems Davis
#406 waiting on wings to arrive
Deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Sims <n217gt(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailcone riveting!! |
I was worried about this too. I used 1/4" fibreboard (the really
stiff stuff used for peg boards without the holes) and cut out pieces
to lay across the J-channels. My wife then got inside to buck
rivets. No problems.
http://canopyroad.org/gallery/view_photo.php?
set_albumName=tailcone&id=IMG_1698
--
Aaron Sims
RV-10 #40036 (Fuselage/Firewall)
http://canopyroad.org/rv10/
n217gt(at)gmail.com
On Sep 19, 2005, at 1:56 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey all - First, thanks to everyone who responded to my bolt ident
>> query
>> yesterday. This list rocks. Now the new question: when riveting
>> the
>> top skin on the tailcone, is it ok to climb in there to buck? I know
>> I've seen pics of people inside the tailcone bucking and goofing
>> around,
>> but I'm scared of bending j-stiffners, dinging the skins, or
>> otherwise
>> screwing stuff up. Thoughts?
>>
>> Thanks
>> cj
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> What I did was to put a LOT of blankets,quilts,towels on the bottom
> skin to protect against damaging things, I piled on a bunch, and
> then advised my daughter (my rivet bucker) to try and avoid
> stepping/kneeling directly where the stiffeners/bulkheads were, I
> sweated this also, but it turned out to be a non event, the
> padding seemed to do the trick with no damage.
>
> Deems Davis
> #406 waiting on wings to arrive
> Deemsrv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tailcone riveting!! |
Hi Chris,
I sent my 130lb 15 year old son in there and it held up just fine...
though he did move around carefully.
You can do a lot of that riveting yourself if you plan your sequence,
but there are some that you will have to have someone in there for.
Having said that, my work was much faster and the results are
significantly better having had his help.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Countersinking spar flanges (perhaps for the rest of my life...)
On Sep 19, 2005, at 9:59 AM, Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>
>
> Hey all -
> First, thanks to everyone who responded to my bolt ident query
> yesterday. This list rocks. Now the new question: when riveting the
> top skin on the tailcone, is it ok to climb in there to buck? I know
> I've seen pics of people inside the tailcone bucking and goofing
> around,
> but I'm scared of bending j-stiffners, dinging the skins, or otherwise
> screwing stuff up. Thoughts?
>
> Thanks
> cj
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | tailcone riveting!! |
Try some padding under a board or something like that to distribute your
weight over a larger area. That worked well for us.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: tailcone riveting!!
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>
>Hey all -
>First, thanks to everyone who responded to my bolt ident query
>yesterday. This list rocks. Now the new question: when riveting the
>top skin on the tailcone, is it ok to climb in there to buck? I know
>I've seen pics of people inside the tailcone bucking and goofing around,
>but I'm scared of bending j-stiffners, dinging the skins, or otherwise
>screwing stuff up. Thoughts?
>
>Thanks
>cj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
What I did was to put a LOT of blankets,quilts,towels on the bottom skin
to protect against damaging things, I piled on a bunch, and then advised
my daughter (my rivet bucker) to try and avoid stepping/kneeling
directly where the stiffeners/bulkheads were, I sweated this also, but
it turned out to be a non event, the padding seemed to do the trick
with no damage.
Deems Davis
#406 waiting on wings to arrive
Deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Canadain inspectors rejecting some pre-assembled parts? |
Hi All,
Just a short update regarding the report of Canadian inspectors failing
RV-10 wings on preclose inspection. Unfortunately I've still not got
names or kits numbers so I've not verified anything with the builders
but here's the info I've received:
- At least two kits were affected.
- All reported defects were under driven shop heads on the 5/16 rivets
on the main spars
- The problems were only found on fast build wings.
I'm got the calipers out to check my slow build spars and found all the
rivets were well within spec. as I suspected.
With the tanks off this should be no big deal to fix but I'd not be a
happy guy to get this flagged as a defect during final inspection.
Perry Casson
Regina, Sk. Canada
fuel tanks... ick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high! |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I do like the template idea. I will mention it to Ken the next time I
see him. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high!
Randy,
I don't think that the standard panel seems to be as good of a
clearance as yours. I did some playing this weekend and I
just don't think that even if I cut an ear off that it has
a chance of fitting. I chopped off the whole vent rearward
half, and it takes quite a bit more space for it to fit under
the panel. Probably at least as much as the top flange of
the vent takes up.
I think the only solutions that I can think of for people with
standard panels will be smaller vents or moving the outlet
somewhere else and connecting with duct.
That said, Van's REALLY needs to make sure they adjust their
CNC punch to either lower, or elminate that hole altogether.
Ray is builder 40250...which is quite a few kits that are
going to be affected. In my opinion, they should just
provide a template and let the builder cut the hole. Then
it'll go wherever it needs to for that builders panel and plan.
I myself had this same dilema and basically just pushed off
completing that section until I find the best solution.
Ray, I'll keep in touch and maybe we'll figure something good
out. The idea that Noel gave out sounds pretty good. I think
I'm going to explore what shape of bended aluminum would be
needed to add a small mounting panel that blends in well with
the rest of the plane. The only issue for me is that if it
rivets thru the skin, I'll have to act quick, because I plan
to paint soon.
Tim
Randy DeBauw wrote:
>
> I believe the hole placement on the side skin was based on the smaller
> 1" vents. The feeling was, as I understand it, that the 1" vents did
> not allow enough air flow. The 2" vents fit but you have to trim off
one
> ear. This makes it nice and close to the panel if you want to make a
> cover that will hide everything except the vent itself. The cover will
> end up right next to the lower edge of the panel. Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray
R
> [NTK]
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 6:46 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high!
>
> -->
>
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
> CDNI Principal Engineer
> Sprint PCS
> 16020 West 113th Street
> Lenexa, KS 66219
> Mailstop KSLNXK0101
> (913) 859-1414 (Office)
> (913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
> (913) 859-1234 (Fax)
> Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
>
>
> I have a question for the list. I cleco'ed on the upper deck and
> switch/breaker panel to the fuse yesterday and tried to fit the NACA
> vents and the expensive aluminum vents I bought from Van's. The Vent
> cutouts in the skin are too high on the side skin and hit the
underside
> of the switch/breaker panel. Even if you trim the naca vent as much
as
> possible it is still not enough. Van's should have lowered the skin
> cutout another 1/4" to 3"8", than it would have fit. Now I am not
sure
> what I am going to do. I was thinking of ordered the NACA vent pieces
> from Van's for the RV-9 which come in two pieces and then you join
them
> together with 2" scat tube and clamps. This might make it longer and
> require a different mounting scheme. This sucks that at builder
40250,
> this kind of stuff isn't already corrected. Any thoughts?
>
>
> Ray Doerr
> 40250
> Engine and Prop arrived.
> Working on Finishing Kit.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Canadain inspectors rejecting some pre-assembled parts? |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I am pretty sure those rivets are drive at the same place that does them
for the slow build. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry Casson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canadain inspectors rejecting some pre-assembled
parts?
Hi All,
Just a short update regarding the report of Canadian inspectors failing
RV-10 wings on preclose inspection. Unfortunately I've still not got
names or kits numbers so I've not verified anything with the builders
but here's the info I've received:
- At least two kits were affected.
- All reported defects were under driven shop heads on the 5/16 rivets
on the main spars
- The problems were only found on fast build wings.
I'm got the calipers out to check my slow build spars and found all the
rivets were well within spec. as I suspected.
With the tanks off this should be no big deal to fix but I'd not be a
happy guy to get this flagged as a defect during final inspection.
Perry Casson
Regina, Sk. Canada
fuel tanks... ick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale: Whelen HDACF Strobe Power Supply |
Builders, want to save $150?
Freshly rebuilt Whelen HDACF 3-channel power supply for sale...$230
including shipping. Details here:
http://www.rvproject.com/forsale/whelen.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2006 Calendar |
Not many responses but I think I have enough pictures to build something that would
keep us builders going a little longer in the tough times.
My big incentive was to see four of the five -10's that were customer built up
at Oshkosh. So very nice! There has got to be a bunch more there next year.
I thought I might be able to make next year, but the more I work, the more there
appears that I need to do. No light at the end of the tunnel just yet! The
quickbuild kits start to look nice. But I am enjoying the building. It's just
taking me longer than I would like.
But along the way, it's sooooo nice to see major subassemblies go from drawings
and a pile of parts to a finished part. Me being a first time builder I am always
a little anxious to have my technical couselor come over. But I have learned
so much and he is just a wealth of knowledge. Now I don't hesitate to have
him look things over.
Now where did I put that engine? I really must clean out the workshop!
Keep pounding the rivets!
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Comcast" <kenbpeck(at)comcast.net>
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 21:33:48 -0400
Gosh, a great inspirational tool for those of us in the process! I'd gladly
cough up a few $$ for something I could put on my office wall!
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: RV10-List: 2006 Calendar
>
> I have thought about making a 2006 calendar (RV-10 Style!)
>
> Several questions:
>
> (1) I would need to get some great pictures for use on the Calendar.
> These would need to be high resolution digital if at all possible. I
> would also need to have the photographers permision to use them on the
> calendar and a small paragraph about the picture.
>
> (2) Anyone care to list any important dates they would like to see
> highlighted on the Calendar (First Flight Anniversaries, Holidays, etc.)
>
> (3) Distribution? - PDF (Personal use only), Printed - Not stapled for
> wall hanging, Printed / Stapled.
>
> Comments?
>
> Jim Combs
> #40192, N312F - Fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high! |
Eliminate that hole all together and while they are at it they can
delete the CNC coordinates to that drag inducing passenger duct thingy
as well.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Subject: RE: RV10-List: NACA Vent cutout on side skin is too high!
I do like the template idea. I will mention it to Ken the next time I
see him. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Connector for Trim Servo? |
On a related subject, for those that have finished wiring or nearly finished
wiring, how much wire and what gauges did you end up using. I know every
installation will be different but it would be nice to have a ballpark list
of wire lengths and gauges to compare to my estimates. Thanks.
Bruce Snyder
Wings #40353
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Connector for Trim Servo?
We used a 9-pin D-sub connector from Radio Shack. We ended up going with
relay decks, though, which makes wiring the servo, the indicator, the switch
in the panel and the switch on the control stick a little bit of a pain,
really almost defeating the purpose for making them a quick disconnect. For
the Aileron and Rudder trims we used the same relay deck (that Van's sells)
and just soldered/crimped the wires.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Connector for Trim Servo?
Hi all,
What connector is everyone using to connect to the trim servo?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Connector for Trim Servo? |
100' of 18 ga black, 100' of 18 ga red, 100' of 18 ga white and 50' of
22 ga yellow. I also bought 100' of 22 ga black, 100' of 22 ga red and
100' of 22 ga white. I am just about done with wiring and have a
little left-over. I had some 10 ga left over from a previous project
that I used for radio and airframe ground. figure about 30'.
Depending on your alternator amperage, you will need about 15' of
appropriate ga shielded wire.
In addition, my radios and engine monitor are prewired.
Rob.
On Sep 19, 2005, at 10:12 PM, bruce snyder wrote:
>
>
> On a related subject, for those that have finished wiring or nearly
> finished
> wiring, how much wire and what gauges did you end up using. I know
> every
> installation will be different but it would be nice to have a ballpark
> list
> of wire lengths and gauges to compare to my estimates. Thanks.
>
> Bruce Snyder
> Wings #40353
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 10:11 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Connector for Trim Servo?
>
>
> We used a 9-pin D-sub connector from Radio Shack. We ended up going
> with
> relay decks, though, which makes wiring the servo, the indicator, the
> switch
> in the panel and the switch on the control stick a little bit of a
> pain,
> really almost defeating the purpose for making them a quick
> disconnect. For
> the Aileron and Rudder trims we used the same relay deck (that Van's
> sells)
> and just soldered/crimped the wires.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
> Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 12:09 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Connector for Trim Servo?
>
>
> Hi all,
> What connector is everyone using to connect to the trim servo?
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Elevator Attachment |
Hi All,
I've seen a similar question in the archives but didn't spot any
answers. Re RV10 Plans Section 11 page 2
Has it been most peoples experience to have a "consistent" 1/8"
gap, fore and aft between the outboard edge of the Horizontal
Stab and the inboard edge of the Elev Counterbalance arm, given
the correct 7/8" (+/- 1/16" tolerance) adjustment of the rod end
bearings on the elevator?
John Dunne
#40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Compass Correction Card spreadsheet |
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert Gardner [mailto:ibspud(at)adelphia.net]
Subject: Compass Correction Card spreadsheet
Well, an archive search didn't turn up any hits but I thought I remembered a
posting about a spreadsheet program that would print a correction card.
Anyone familiar with this?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Leach" <papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Jesse,
My name is Rick Leach and I live in the Brandon area East of
Tampa. I am building a -10 as well and would like to take a peak at
yours sometime if that would be possible.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
Ken,
If you are north of Orlando, then you are not far from us. You would we
welcome to stop by X35 and look at our -10. It gets back today from a
trip
to Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee and North Carolina. It will probably
have
the better part of 75 hours on it by then. It's been running great. It
might inspire you to keep up the work.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Comcast
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
Hey there!
I'm building a -10 up north of Orlando, but get down to Ft. Lauderdale a
few
times a year either on business or to visit my brother. Would love to
stop
by if you're interested in meeting another -10 builder.
My next confirmed trip south is week of Dec 5, but will probably come
down
at least once before then.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Ken Peck
31 Rosedown Blvd
Debary, FL
386-846-4184
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> I'm ready to close the VS ,it is any provision for a red rotating
> (LED)beacon in the RV10 tail,I identified the white in the lower part
of
> the rudder,any body install traditional VOR antennas at the top of the
VS?
> Hugo
> I;m working a three blocks from the wicks manufacturer at Ft
> >Lauderdale,Today I will made a cortesy visit(may be I can purchase
> direct)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator Attachment |
I can remember it was fairly close to "consistent" but nonetheless I had
the elevators on and off several times adjusting the bearings by turning
them a half turn each time. It's also important that the elevator does
not scratch the HS.
Lorenz Malmstrm
40280 Wings
http://www.malmstrom.ch/RV10.htm
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dunne [mailto:acs(at)acspropeller.com.au]
> Sent: Mittwoch, 21. September 2005 02:46
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Attachment
>
>
> Hi All,
> I've seen a similar question in the archives but didn't spot any
> answers. Re RV10 Plans Section 11 page 2
> Has it been most peoples experience to have a "consistent" 1/8"
> gap, fore and aft between the outboard edge of the Horizontal
> Stab and the inboard edge of the Elev Counterbalance arm, given
> the correct 7/8" (+/- 1/16" tolerance) adjustment of the rod end
> bearings on the elevator?
>
> John Dunne
>
> #40315
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Attachment |
I just got done with my elevator attachment and I had to do *zero*
adjustment for the gap or alignment. I think it helps if you accurately
measure the bearing distance (7/8" from the HS to the center of the
bearing). I did this and then tightened the jam nuts and everything was
perfect.. No muss, no fuss...
-Jim 40384, Done with tail, on to wings this weekend!
John Dunne wrote:
>
>Hi All,
>I've seen a similar question in the archives but didn't spot any
>answers. Re RV10 Plans Section 11 page 2
>Has it been most peoples experience to have a "consistent" 1/8"
>gap, fore and aft between the outboard edge of the Horizontal
>Stab and the inboard edge of the Elev Counterbalance arm, given
>the correct 7/8" (+/- 1/16" tolerance) adjustment of the rod end
>bearings on the elevator?
>
>John Dunne
>
>#40315
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: September RV-10 Calendar Page |
A pdf file for September 05 has been posted at
www.infra-read.com
It's about a half meg for those using dial-up internet access.
If you have a color printer, try feeding a sheet of photo / glossy paper and print
it. If you have access to a large format color laser (Lexmark C910), it looks
good at 11 x 17 format too.
Enjoy,
Jim Combs
N312F - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fixitauto(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: September RV-10 Calendar Page |
In a message dated 9/21/2005 5:54:51 P.M. Central Standard Time,
jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com writes:
www.infra-read.com
JUST WISHING I COULD GET TO SUNDAYS IN TO EVERY WEEK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | September RV-10 Calendar Page |
Me too, but I sure tried!
Fixed it!
JimC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Gurley" <rngurley(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | September RV-10 Calendar Page |
Jim -
Thanks so much, this looks great!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: September RV-10 Calendar Page
A pdf file for September 05 has been posted at
www.infra-read.com
It's about a half meg for those using dial-up internet access.
If you have a color printer, try feeding a sheet of photo / glossy paper and
print it. If you have access to a large format color laser (Lexmark C910),
it looks good at 11 x 17 format too.
Enjoy,
Jim Combs
N312F - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Vic Syracuse's RV-10 Flies! |
Vic's plane was just spotted at KSQL... He's got all the flight
instructors at my flight school drooling over (on) it. My instructor
just called me and was saying "what are those dual screen EFIS
systems??? It looks really nice with that three bladed prop... whens
your's going to be done!?!?!?!"
Good Job Vic. Glad to see you pushing that thing around the country!
James
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> See here for photos!
> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/VicsRV10/plane/index.html
>
> Vic just CC'd me on the following note....great news! Also, finally
> an MT prop flies an RV-10!
>
> Van & Team---- You did it again! What a great airplane. N64VC took to
> the air today, 7/24/2005, for the first time. Enclosed is the
> requisite RV-grin photo after landing, and I assure you the grin
> needed no prompting! We started the airplane in May of 2004, SN#
> 40229, and 14 1/2 months, 1700 manhours and 700 wife hours later (yes,
> she was right there) we are beginning to have fun again. We used a QB
> kit, and wired, painted, and upholstered it ourselves. The engine is
> an I0-540-D4A5 built by Performance Engines, with AirFlow Performance
> Injection, Lightspeed Ignition on top, magneto on bottom, balanced,
> ported, and flow balanced, with an MT-3 Blade prop. The panel is dual
> screen Chelton, Garmin 430, Sl-30, PS Engineering PM7000CD, TruTrack
> Sorcerer autopilot. With only 5 hours on it this weekend ,and limited
> to a traffic pattern distance from the airport during those 5 hours,
> I've not been able to get any good performance numbers yet. However,
> at 2650' DA, climb rates have been about 1500 fpm. We've been asking
> Van for a 4 place since 1985, and he sure has delivered a winner!
>
> Thanks again!!!
>
> Vic & Carol Syracuse
> 3-time repeat offenders :)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | slightly disapointing visit to vans |
Hey all,
Just wanted to share (gripe) an experience I had at Van's last weekend.
I took a friend of mine over there who helped me build some of my
project, is a student pilot, and is interested in the rv-10, but hasn't
ever flown in one. We got to Van's and Bruce came down to show us the
factory and do the demo flight. After a few questions it came up that
my friend has not soloed yet but was close (he also has his medical /
student pilot cert, its just not signed off yet). Bruce would not fly.
He said that having soloed is a requirement for the demo flight and that
the demo flights were only for "people they felt were serious about
buying a kit, and if he hasn't soloed yet then he can't be serious."
Now I know, and you know, that there are a number of people building, or
getting ready to build who are *about* to begin their PPL and aren't
even close to soloing. Since I had already had a demo ride, of course I
was disqualified as well. Needless to say my friend and I were quite
dismayed at this cavalier dismissal of a potential customer, especially
since the rv-10 demo is something we went prepared to pay $50 for (and
Bruce had the nerve to explain (albeit nicely) that since fuel was
$4.20/gallon they had to be careful about demo flights... let's see, at
$4.20/gal and average of 11-12gph shouldn't that cover expenses for a 10
- 15 minute demo?) I might also add that there was no one else there,
so it wasn't like they were busy either. So for a potential $40,000+
customer with $50 for a 10 - 15 minute ride with nothing else going on
he felt it was worthwile to turn away a customer based on the fact that
they haven't soloed. Nice.
Fortunately, Randy was around and gave us a much better demonstration
than we would have gotten at the factory, even after he had taken me up
the day before! (Thanks Randy!)
Anyway, I guess the bottom line is you can't be serious about flying,
building or owning a plane unless you've soloed. makes me wonder how
anyone gets started ;)
James
#40400
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Oct / Nov Calendar Posted |
I put two more RV-10 calendar pages up (Oct / Nov)
www.infra-read.com
JimC
N312F - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | slightly disapointing visit to vans |
This is odd, indeed.
I'd flown in the demo RV-10 and liked it. Took my son (flying since he was
14, soloed, but when we flew in the RV-10 he was 19, but still no ticket),
and Ken took him up. Maybe because I was the potential buyer.
I know of another builder who's on this list and both he and his wife do not
yet have their tickets (although she is close), but he's busy building. Not
sure if they've had a ride other than with Randy (bless his heart), but they
are clear evidence of builders with no tickets, yet they've got their VS,
rudder done and even have the wings parts in the hanger.
I agree it doesn't make any sense. Unless it has something to do with
insurance. Oh, well.
John Jessen
#40328 HS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: slightly disapointing visit to vans
Hey all,
Just wanted to share (gripe) an experience I had at Van's last weekend.
I took a friend of mine over there who helped me build some of my project,
is a student pilot, and is interested in the rv-10, but hasn't ever flown in
one. We got to Van's and Bruce came down to show us the factory and do the
demo flight. After a few questions it came up that my friend has not soloed
yet but was close (he also has his medical / student pilot cert, its just
not signed off yet). Bruce would not fly.
He said that having soloed is a requirement for the demo flight and that the
demo flights were only for "people they felt were serious about buying a
kit, and if he hasn't soloed yet then he can't be serious."
Now I know, and you know, that there are a number of people building, or
getting ready to build who are *about* to begin their PPL and aren't even
close to soloing. Since I had already had a demo ride, of course I was
disqualified as well. Needless to say my friend and I were quite dismayed
at this cavalier dismissal of a potential customer, especially since the
rv-10 demo is something we went prepared to pay $50 for (and Bruce had the
nerve to explain (albeit nicely) that since fuel was $4.20/gallon they had
to be careful about demo flights... let's see, at $4.20/gal and average of
11-12gph shouldn't that cover expenses for a 10
- 15 minute demo?) I might also add that there was no one else there,
so it wasn't like they were busy either. So for a potential $40,000+
customer with $50 for a 10 - 15 minute ride with nothing else going on he
felt it was worthwile to turn away a customer based on the fact that they
haven't soloed. Nice.
Fortunately, Randy was around and gave us a much better demonstration than
we would have gotten at the factory, even after he had taken me up the day
before! (Thanks Randy!)
Anyway, I guess the bottom line is you can't be serious about flying,
building or owning a plane unless you've soloed. makes me wonder how anyone
gets started ;)
James
#40400
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
Would someone tell me the difference between a cushioned line support
clamp (MS21919-DEG) and a wedge cushioned line clamp (MS21919-WDG).
Also, are angle brackets commercially available to mount the cable
clamps perpendicular to a hole through a bulkhead?
Larry Rosen
RV-10 40356
N205EN (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
What the (*&# is up with the 2" aft heater hose going over the fuel valve bracket
that only has 1" vertical space? Anyone routing it under the bracket or see
any problem with this?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Phone number for Doug Peterson? |
Hi All,
Does anyone have a phone number for Doug Peterson with the RV-10 in Arizona?
Please contact me off the list. _jim(at)lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com)
TIA
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | slightly disapointing visit to vans |
James,
It seems that there are some at Van's that are more into what they think the
world should look like than the way it actually looks. I haven't soloed yet
either, but I have build an RV-10 (with 2 other people) and plan to do more.
I know more about the way planes work structurally and aerodynamically than
most student pilots, I think, and probably know more about flying than a lot
of student pilots, but have spent more time building, flight planning, back
seat flying and so on than I have actually spent with the stick in my hand.
I would consider myself fairly serious about flying. Most of the people at
Van's are great, but there is at least one "K" than I know of that seems to
care more about knowing what he supposedly knows than about selling airplane
kits and keeping customers happy. Anyway, I'm glad that it worked out for
you to fly with Randy. I am sure the demo with him was much better than it
would have been with Van's.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs
Subject: RV10-List: slightly disapointing visit to vans
Hey all,
Just wanted to share (gripe) an experience I had at Van's last weekend.
I took a friend of mine over there who helped me build some of my
project, is a student pilot, and is interested in the rv-10, but hasn't
ever flown in one. We got to Van's and Bruce came down to show us the
factory and do the demo flight. After a few questions it came up that
my friend has not soloed yet but was close (he also has his medical /
student pilot cert, its just not signed off yet). Bruce would not fly.
He said that having soloed is a requirement for the demo flight and that
the demo flights were only for "people they felt were serious about
buying a kit, and if he hasn't soloed yet then he can't be serious."
Now I know, and you know, that there are a number of people building, or
getting ready to build who are *about* to begin their PPL and aren't
even close to soloing. Since I had already had a demo ride, of course I
was disqualified as well. Needless to say my friend and I were quite
dismayed at this cavalier dismissal of a potential customer, especially
since the rv-10 demo is something we went prepared to pay $50 for (and
Bruce had the nerve to explain (albeit nicely) that since fuel was
$4.20/gallon they had to be careful about demo flights... let's see, at
$4.20/gal and average of 11-12gph shouldn't that cover expenses for a 10
- 15 minute demo?) I might also add that there was no one else there,
so it wasn't like they were busy either. So for a potential $40,000+
customer with $50 for a 10 - 15 minute ride with nothing else going on
he felt it was worthwile to turn away a customer based on the fact that
they haven't soloed. Nice.
Fortunately, Randy was around and gave us a much better demonstration
than we would have gotten at the factory, even after he had taken me up
the day before! (Thanks Randy!)
Anyway, I guess the bottom line is you can't be serious about flying,
building or owning a plane unless you've soloed. makes me wonder how
anyone gets started ;)
James
#40400
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
I think we tried to put it over the bracket and it didn't fit so we routed
it under. Just make sure that it doesn't get in the way of the controls. I
imagine it is a little safer going over because of that heat right next to
the fuel lines, but I agree that there didn't seem to be a good way to get
it to fit without crimping and folding it, which would obviously cut the air
flow to next to nothing.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
What the (*&# is up with the 2" aft heater hose going over the fuel valve
bracket that only has 1" vertical space? Anyone routing it under the
bracket or see any problem with this?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans |
What does Fiy Aman Allah mean ???
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Ahn. I reduced the size to 1 =BD" going over the fuel valve and then stepped it
up to 2" to go into the rear connector. I used white pvc adapters at home depot
and it worked very well. You can buy one that has 2" od and if you remove
the threads it is 1 =BD" on the outside of the other end. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
What the (*&# is up with the 2" aft heater hose going over the fuel valve bracket
that only has 1" vertical space? Anyone routing it under the bracket or see
any problem with this?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans |
live under the protection of God
----- Original Message -----
From: UFOBUCK(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plans revisions - Don't trust your plans
What does Fiy Aman Allah mean ???
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | slightly disapointing visit to vans |
| From: | "RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Excellent idea Dan!
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Ailerons
This one is good for the archives
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: slightly disapointing visit to vans
> you to fly with Randy. I am sure the demo with him was much better
> than it would have been with Van's.
I can't comment on the attitude up at Van's, since I've never been to the factory.
Never had a factory demo ride there or at airshows or whatever, and was never
really interested -- it always seemed like it would be a rushed affair to
me. I got my rides from builders.
My 2 cents is -- Randy is the man, and he deserves the $100. Get your ride from
a builder like Randy, who is probably going to be more excited about taking
you up in the first place. And then you really ought to go and name that builder
as the "Finder" on your Finder's Fee form. Call Van's if your kit didn't
have a Finder's Fee Form in the paperwork, and they'll send you one.
Van's pays out $100 checks to people who are named as the "Finder." So save the
$50 that you would have spent on a very brief ride with Bruce or whomever, get
the ride with the builder, and then name that builder as the Finder. He gets
$100, you get a great ride, and everybody's happy, right?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (632 hours and LOTS of rides) http://www.rvproject.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | slightly disapointing visit to vans |
I have taken 5 builders or prospective builders for flights. I can tell
you the feeling of putting the stick in your hand and actually flying
the RV10 for 30 min. or so is a real kick. Randy
________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: slightly disapointing visit to vans
Excellent idea Dan!
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Ailerons
This one is good for the archives
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: Re: RV10-List: slightly disapointing visit to vans
> you to fly with Randy. I am sure the demo with him was much better
> than it would have been with Van's.
I can't comment on the attitude up at Van's, since I've never been to
the factory. Never had a factory demo ride there or at airshows or
whatever, and was never really interested -- it always seemed like it
would be a rushed affair to me. I got my rides from builders.
My 2 cents is -- Randy is the man, and he deserves the $100. Get your
ride from a builder like Randy, who is probably going to be more excited
about taking you up in the first place. And then you really ought to go
and name that builder as the "Finder" on your Finder's Fee form. Call
Van's if your kit didn't have a Finder's Fee Form in the paperwork, and
they'll send you one.
Van's pays out $100 checks to people who are named as the "Finder." So
save the $50 that you would have spent on a very brief ride with Bruce
or whomever, get the ride with the builder, and then name that builder
as the Finder. He gets $100, you get a great ride, and everybody's
happy, right?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (632 hours and LOTS of rides) http://www.rvproject.com
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Something has to be done about this! Who is able to take him off the list?
Note to self...don't set up an autoresponder on e-mail accounts that are on
a listserv.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lorenz Malmstrm
Subject: RV10-List: Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden
Fllen wenden Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front
desk for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Maybe someone with free international calling (yah, right) could call
regarding the "urgent matter" of turning off the e-mail ;)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lorenz Malmstrm
Subject: RV10-List: Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden
Fllen wenden Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front
desk for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aft Heater Hose |
Thanks Randy. 1.5" still gives 0.5" protruding above the tunnel cover. There's
exactly 1.0" above the fuel bracket and 2.0" in between the valve selector and
the tunnel side skin.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
Ahn. I reduced the size to 1 =BD" going over the fuel valve and then stepped
it up to 2" to go into the rear connector. I used white pvc adapters at home
depot and it worked very well. You can buy one that has 2" od and if you remove
the threads it is 1 =BD" on the outside of the other end. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:48 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
What the (*&# is up with the 2" aft heater hose going over the fuel valve bracket
that only has 1" vertical space? Anyone routing it under the bracket or
see any problem with this?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Engine Baffle Aft Center Bracket |
May Aft center bracket on top of the engine is hitting the engine (converted C4B5)
itself, prventing you from tightening the two engine bolts. Anyone with this
problem?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Wire Run Distance |
Could someone with the tailcone attached measure the distance from the
battery tray to the firewall for me please? I'm doing some load
analysis and wire sizing.
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wire Run Distance |
Approx. 115" (I didn't use a micrometer) You'll probably want to
add a couple extra feet to that for zig-zags as it goes down the side
of the fuselage and thru snap bushings and stuff.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Could someone with the tailcone attached measure the distance from the
> battery tray to the firewall for me please? I'm doing some load
> analysis and wire sizing.
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Maybe someone in the US can ring the number.....
----- Original Message -----
From: " "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com>"
Subject: RV10-List: Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice
>
> Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden
> Fllen wenden Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
>
> I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our
> front desk for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lorenz Malmstrm" <lm(at)viscomvisual.com> |
| Subject: | Abwesenheitsnotiz - Out of Office Notice |
Ich bin ab dem 10. Oktober 2005 wieder im Bro erreichbar. In dringenden Fllen wenden
Sie sich bitte an unser Sekretariat (031 307 50 50).
I will be in my office again from October 10, 2005. Please contact our front desk
for urgent matters (031 307 50 50).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder trailing edge,the plans say
first to drill perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink perpendicular
to the face,how you will be able to do so if the hole line is out of line ,and
what is the importance of do so if when you counters. in both sides for the
skin dimples the hole remain is humongous.did I made something wrong?
hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
Hugo,
When you drill perpendicular to the chord, you are drilling through
both skins. Its hard to tell if you're perpendicular to the chord or
not; The difference is so slight (probably 1/2 a degree) that its hard
to tell. All I did was to drill so that the bit comes out the matching
hole on the other side!
As for countersinking, use a slow drill; countersinking the wedge
enlarges the pilot hole a bit when you do the other side of the wedge.
That hole will be hidden, and "filled in" a bit with the proseal that
comes later (You did order your proseal, right?).
My Proseal recommendations? Don't get the 30min tube, just go for
the 2-hr quart can; Then you won't have to rush, and it gives you more
time when you do the same thing to the elevator trailing edges.
-Jim 40384, Alodining the main spar countersinks (yes, I've gone off the
deep end... and I like it!)
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder trailing edge,the plans say
first to drill perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink perpendicular
to the face,how you will be able to do so if the hole line is out of line ,and
what is the importance of do so if when you counters. in both sides for the
skin dimples the hole remain is humongous.did I made something wrong?
>hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
Hugo,
Just follow those instructions as best as you can. The
drilled hole needs to be drilled perpendicular to the
chord so that it exits the other side in the right
place. The countersink is perpendicular to the skin
because that is how the rivets are shaped. If you get
out of that alignment it will not matter because the
rivet will conform to the shape of the hole. All of
these trailing edge rivet holes are out of alignmentin
respect to the face of the rivet head and the shaft of
the rivet.
Steve 40212
--- gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>
> his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder
> trailing edge,the plans say first to drill
> perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink
> perpendicular to the face,how you will be able to do
> so if the hole line is out of line ,and what is the
> importance of do so if when you counters. in both
> sides for the skin dimples the hole remain is
> humongous.did I made something wrong?
> hugo
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
Hugo,
It makes it a TON easier to build a little jig to hold the trailing edge
and use a drill press to countersink.
Read about it and see a picture here...
<http://rv10.stephensville.com/archives/2005/01/dimpling_deburr.html>
-Sean #40303
Darton Steve wrote:
>
> Hugo,
>
> Just follow those instructions as best as you can. The
> drilled hole needs to be drilled perpendicular to the
> chord so that it exits the other side in the right
> place. The countersink is perpendicular to the skin
> because that is how the rivets are shaped. If you get
> out of that alignment it will not matter because the
> rivet will conform to the shape of the hole. All of
> these trailing edge rivet holes are out of alignmentin
> respect to the face of the rivet head and the shaft of
> the rivet.
>
> Steve 40212
>
> --- gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder
>> trailing edge,the plans say first to drill
>> perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink
>> perpendicular to the face,how you will be able to do
>> so if the hole line is out of line ,and what is the
>> importance of do so if when you counters. in both
>> sides for the skin dimples the hole remain is
>> humongous.did I made something wrong?
>> hugo
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | uncensored mail list |
how soon we forget. The reason this matronics list became so popular was
because we didn't want anybody restricting the input. Just zip past those
"out of office" things and be glad we don't have a monitor filtering stuff
out.
Is anybody thinking of an alternate engine? I know it's somewhat
sacrilegious to consider an experimental engine in an experimental aircraft
with such reliable, tried and true manufacturers (Lycoming?) out there, BUT
Jan Eggenfellner is working on a new ratio PSRU that will allow the Suburu
H6 engine to operate at a high enough RPM to develop 240 HP. If he offers a
firewall forward kit with a supercharged H6 I'll plunk down some money.
Paul Hahn
#203 - slo-build
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Temporary Wheels |
D:\IMail\spool\DCP_1401s.jpg;
This weekend I joined the front and rear fuselage sections. This made the assembly
too large to fit through my workshop doors forcing a move to the garage.
I needed to be able to easily move it back to the workshop door as well (walkout
basment location).
In order to make it more easily movable, I fabricated a temporary set of wheels.
So far so good. A single piece of 1.5" aluminum angle, two tires and some
bolts and now it moves with ease.
Jim Combs
N312F - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
"Hatamos, Grant"
| Subject: | Re: Temporary Wheels - Correct pictures this time |
D:\IMail\spool\DCP_1556s.jpg;
Sorry, grabbed the wrong pictures.
Jim C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Peck" <kenbpeck(at)comcast.net> |
Gosh I wish I'd read this two days ago.... At least I now have plenty of
scrap trailing edge from which to make my jig...
If anyone else needs a little scrap, drop me a note.... The countersinking
was a slight bit overzealous.
Ken 40439
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> Hugo,
>
> It makes it a TON easier to build a little jig to hold the trailing edge
> and use a drill press to countersink.
>
> Read about it and see a picture here...
>
> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/archives/2005/01/dimpling_deburr.html>
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Darton Steve wrote:
>>
>> Hugo,
>>
>> Just follow those instructions as best as you can. The
>> drilled hole needs to be drilled perpendicular to the
>> chord so that it exits the other side in the right
>> place. The countersink is perpendicular to the skin
>> because that is how the rivets are shaped. If you get
>> out of that alignment it will not matter because the
>> rivet will conform to the shape of the hole. All of
>> these trailing edge rivet holes are out of alignmentin
>> respect to the face of the rivet head and the shaft of
>> the rivet.
>>
>> Steve 40212
>>
>> --- gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder
>>> trailing edge,the plans say first to drill
>>> perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink
>>> perpendicular to the face,how you will be able to do
>>> so if the hole line is out of line ,and what is the
>>> importance of do so if when you counters. in both
>>> sides for the skin dimples the hole remain is
>>> humongous.did I made something wrong?
>>> hugo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> browse
>>> Subscriptions page,
>>> FAQ,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
If you don't want to build a jig, which is easy to do and you might as well
do it, here's my technique, which is even easier. Worked fine.
Essentially you stand the rudder up on the yet-to-be-rolled leading edge of
the skins. That puts the cord straight up and down relative to the work
bench. It doesn't hurt the skin edges at all. You then put a string level
on your drill so you know you are at a right angle to the cord. Drill.
Pictures attached.
John Jessen
#328 HS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Peck
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
Gosh I wish I'd read this two days ago.... At least I now have plenty of
scrap trailing edge from which to make my jig...
If anyone else needs a little scrap, drop me a note.... The countersinking
was a slight bit overzealous.
Ken 40439
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo Rv10
>
> Hugo,
>
> It makes it a TON easier to build a little jig to hold the trailing edge
> and use a drill press to countersink.
>
> Read about it and see a picture here...
>
> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/archives/2005/01/dimpling_deburr.html>
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Darton Steve wrote:
>>
>> Hugo,
>>
>> Just follow those instructions as best as you can. The
>> drilled hole needs to be drilled perpendicular to the
>> chord so that it exits the other side in the right
>> place. The countersink is perpendicular to the skin
>> because that is how the rivets are shaped. If you get
>> out of that alignment it will not matter because the
>> rivet will conform to the shape of the hole. All of
>> these trailing edge rivet holes are out of alignmentin
>> respect to the face of the rivet head and the shaft of
>> the rivet.
>>
>> Steve 40212
>>
>> --- gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> his is my sunday question,when drilling the rudder
>>> trailing edge,the plans say first to drill
>>> perpendicular to the cord,later say to countersink
>>> perpendicular to the face,how you will be able to do
>>> so if the hole line is out of line ,and what is the
>>> importance of do so if when you counters. in both
>>> sides for the skin dimples the hole remain is
>>> humongous.did I made something wrong?
>>> hugo
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> browse
>>> Subscriptions page,
>>> FAQ,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Push and squeeze of fold spindle and mutilate. You can get it in. Or you can go
to 1 =BC" material. You will have plenty of heat unless you live where Tim
does. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
Thanks Randy. 1.5" still gives 0.5" protruding above the tunnel cover. There's
exactly 1.0" above the fuel bracket and 2.0" in between the valve selector and
the tunnel side skin.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
Ahn. I reduced the size to 1 =BD" going over the fuel valve and then stepped
it up to 2" to go into the rear connector. I used white pvc adapters at
home depot and it worked very well. You can buy one that has 2" od and if you
remove the threads it is 1 =BD" on the outside of the other end. Randy
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 9:48 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Aft Heater Hose
What the (*&# is up with the 2" aft heater hose going over the fuel valve
bracket that only has 1" vertical space? Anyone routing it under the bracket
or see any problem with this?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
I've uploaded my main power distribution diagram for review. It's
essentially a Z-12 from Aeroelectric Connection, modified a bit for the
battery being in the tail. Please take a look and see if I've missed
anything, other than what's actually located on each bus, as that's not
totally finished yet.
You can find it here.. <http://rv10.stephensville.com/N428RV-pwr-dist.pdf>
Thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
Is your hobbs meter also hooked into an oil pressure sensor which isn't
shown here? Otherwise your hobbs is always running..
Bruce #446
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
Yes it would be. This and other sensors are not shown in this diagram.
In the end, the separate hobbs may not even be there, if I go with the
ACS2005 engine monitor for example.
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
Bruce Case wrote:
>
> Is your hobbs meter also hooked into an oil pressure sensor which
> isn't shown here? Otherwise your hobbs is always running..
>
> Bruce #446
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
James,
Slow down the drill to a very slow setting to minimize the bit chatter.
I prefer using a battery powered drill for CS instead of the air
powered. You can also use a little oil. Also Avery sells a #8 screw CS
bit. It is the #20.
Bobby Hughes
40116 Fuse / Engine
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few
countersinks. Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a
bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How
did you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
Best way I found to do it was to start the drill very slowly and then build
up speed to keep the countersink bit from chattering. I also had a
countersink bit I bought from Yardstore.com that had a little longer pilot
on it and that seemed to help.
Bruce
#40353 wings
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few countersinks.
Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How did
you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
In my opinion Van's instructions for this are poor. You have a couple
of options: 1) Leave it as-is. Van's will tell you this is normal
because you don't have material providing a solid hold on the bit's
pilot; 2) Take off all the nutplates, make a jig to cleco on that will
hold the pilot for the countersink; 3) Make a jig to hold your spar such
that you can use a drillpress to do the countersinking.
I went with option 3. If the spar and drillpress are clamped solidly
enough that they can't move relative to each other, then you will
eliminate most of the "wiggle" that produces the jagged countersink.
PJ
40032
James Hein wrote:
> Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
>
> I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few
> countersinks. Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks
> a bit jagged.
>
> I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How
> did you do it? Any hints here?
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob \(US SSA\)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you
located them? Have you actually tested them for interference and
accuracy?
I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top
of the tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate
location and it appears that that powering up the battery contactor
causes the compass to shift a few degrees. Although I haven't checked
it, I would imagine that the TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of
the battery) would cause additional influence/error. There's also the
rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since they're essentially
stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would take care of
that.
I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close
to the shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be
difficult at best to reach later for maintenance.
The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and
I believe that it's recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The
GRT approach has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out
on a wingtip.
Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
What type of AHRS are you installing? what is a few degrees? The Chelton specify
four or less. I too am planning to locate there except my platform can move
further aft if necessary. Note that at the rear of my platform the 24" distance
requirement for the Chelton will be met from battery contactor and almost by
met TT AP pitch servo. Certainly will be met by strobe power supply. It sounds
also that some error can be removed during calibration.
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2005 2:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: AHRS/Magnetometer Location
For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you located
them? Have you actually tested them for interference and accuracy?
I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top of the
tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate location and
it appears that that powering up the battery contactor causes the compass to
shift a few degrees. Although I haven't checked it, I would imagine that the
TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of the battery) would cause additional
influence/error. There's also the rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since
they're essentially stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would
take care of that.
I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close to the
shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be difficult at best
to reach later for maintenance.
The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and I believe
that it's recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The GRT approach
has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out on a wingtip.
Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
Agree with Bobby. In fact (Randy DeBauw tip), sometimes I'll use the 100
degree debur bit that fits in the manual debur handle to do my countersinks.
The one with no pilot shaft. Just hold it perpendicular to the work, give
it 10 to 20 revolutions, wham, you got a perfect countersink. Works great
and is fast and very accurately consistent for #30 and #40 sizes. Not sure
about #20. Try using that to smooth out those ridges. Should be fine.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
James,
Slow down the drill to a very slow setting to minimize the bit chatter. I
prefer using a battery powered drill for CS instead of the air powered. You
can also use a little oil. Also Avery sells a #8 screw CS bit. It is the
#20.
Bobby Hughes
40116 Fuse / Engine
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few countersinks.
Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How did
you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersink... HELP |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Your not going to like my answer, but if you did not do the other spar
yet then you can try it. What I did was take a piece of scrap angle, and
clamp it in place under the three holes for a nut plate, Then I drilled
the holes to match the locations, I then CTSK'd for the rivets, and then
to CTSK for the center I put an extra long -3 in each hole to center the
guide, clamped it in place, and CTSK for the screw to the correct depth,
this countersunk the template at the same time making sure it would not
chatter. They all came out perfect. But I really do not think this is an
issue, because as you CTSK the spar you are actually making the whole
larger, so the metal left at the bottom is very thin no matter how you
do it. The more important part of this is not making it larger than
necessary for the tank skin to sit down in the CTSK, as the strength
comes from the skin set in the opening and pulling against the nut plate
to seat deeper. This method was told to me by Sam, a fellow 9A builder.
Clear as mud? contact me directly if you would like me to clear it up
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersink... HELP
Anyone who's done the #8 countersinks for the fuel tank nutplates:
I've used a #30 100-degree countersink cutter and did a few
countersinks. Even though the dimensions are correct, the inside looks a
bit jagged.
I've included a couple (closeup) pictures, and ask: Is this right? How
did you do it? Any hints here?
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
Circuit diagrams look fine. I have the Z-12 schematic running in my -7A, using
the 8 amp standby alternator rather than the 20A, and a Nippon Denso internally
regulated main alternator, for which I added a disconnect relay (connected
to Bob's crowbar overvoltage sensor) in case of alternator voltage runaway. Works
well, though my electric gyros didn't like being on the downstream side of
the diode connecting the main bus and essential bus, since there is about a
1.2 volt drop across the diode. Simple solution to this problem has been to keep
the E-bus Alternate Feed swith on in addition to the Master switch, which
brings the essential bus up to the same voltage as the main bus.
Last week I inadvertently left the alternate feed switch on overnight and ran down
the battery to nothing during a long cross country. I discovered for the
first time that I could run both the main alternator and the standby alternator
at the same time, and increase the total amps available for running the airplane
and charging the battery. I had always figured I would have to shut the
main alternator down to prevent interactions of the two voltage regulators, but
in practice running both worked like a charm.
Bob's dual alternator circuits work well. Are you using his fuse block approach
also? That's a little less elegant in my -7A since I have to crawl under the
panel to get to the fuse blocks, but the idea is not to be replacing fuses while
flying in any case. Will be putting fuse blocks in the -10 also.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
Four weeks into the project and working on RV-10 elevators, with VS, HS and rudder
done.
> From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2005/09/26 Mon PM 12:41:28 EDT
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
>
> I've uploaded my main power distribution diagram for review. It's
> essentially a Z-12 from Aeroelectric Connection, modified a bit for the
> battery being in the tail. Please take a look and see if I've missed
> anything, other than what's actually located on each bus, as that's not
> totally finished yet.
>
> You can find it here.. <http://rv10.stephensville.com/N428RV-pwr-dist.pdf>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Power Distribution |
Dan Masys wrote:
>
> Circuit diagrams look fine. I have the Z-12 schematic running in my -7A, using
the 8 amp standby alternator rather than the 20A, and a Nippon Denso internally
regulated main alternator, for which I added a disconnect relay (connected
to Bob's crowbar overvoltage sensor) in case of alternator voltage runaway.
Works well, though my electric gyros didn't like being on the downstream side
of the diode connecting the main bus and essential bus, since there is about
a 1.2 volt drop across the diode. Simple solution to this problem has been to
keep the E-bus Alternate Feed swith on in addition to the Master switch, which
brings the essential bus up to the same voltage as the main bus.
>
> Last week I inadvertently left the alternate feed switch on overnight and ran
down the battery to nothing during a long cross country. I discovered for the
first time that I could run both the main alternator and the standby alternator
at the same time, and increase the total amps available for running the airplane
and charging the battery. I had always figured I would have to shut the
main alternator down to prevent interactions of the two voltage regulators,
but in practice running both worked like a charm.
>
I've often wondered if both circuits could be open and not do damage.
> Bob's dual alternator circuits work well. Are you using his fuse block approach
also? That's a little less elegant in my -7A since I have to crawl under
the panel to get to the fuse blocks, but the idea is not to be replacing fuses
while flying in any case. Will be putting fuse blocks in the -10 also.
>
Yes, going fuse blocks on everything except the two alt fld breakers on
the panel.
Thanks for the comments,
-Sean #40303
> -Dan Masys
> RV-7A flying
> Four weeks into the project and working on RV-10 elevators, with VS, HS and rudder
done.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersinks |
James -
It's hard to say. Running a screw down in the dimple doesn't tell us
much. The countersink should be just deep enough for the DIMPLE in the
skin that will eventually fill the countersink to sit in it without a
gap between the skin material and the spar flange material. I drilled,
dimpled and marked (ie 0.032, #8 Screw) scraps of the appropriate
thickness and use them as gauges for countersinks. Countersink and
check with the gauge. Turn the cage a few notches (sometimes 10, other
times 2) and check again. When the gauge stops rocking in the hole and
sits flush, wipe it with MEK, then the Alodine pen (www.steinair.com
<http://www.steinair.com/> ) and move to the next one.
Neal
www.appaero.com
RV-7 N8ZG (fuselage - seat & baggage ribs)
RV-8 N998GM (wings finished!)
So...... Are these too deep? Should I start to worry now?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
Bob, See inline:
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you
> located them? Have you actually tested them for interference and accuracy?
>
>
I built a shelf maybe 6" rearward of the baggage bulkhead, above the
battery. Moving it towards the rear of that section (near the next
bulkhead) would not be a bad option either. I may end up moving mine
back some day if I decide to make a "hat shelf" in the upper baggage
wall.
I did do a quick test with the Chelton AHRS for magnetic interferences.
I know Vic Syracuse had his on the floor next to the battery and
when he had the towbar in the baggage area, he had some interference.
In my install, I moved the control surfaces and didn't see any movement
at all on the magnetometer. There is a PC interface that you can use
for doing the iron calibrations, so it should be apparent if there
is any effect. I put my towbar in the baggage area and didn't see
any movement either. I did not do any powerup of my autopilot servos
and did not power up a battery contactor. I'm about 20" away from those
things. Crossbow likes 24" from any high-current or high-frequency
things, but I'm at least on the outer edge of that spec.
My shelf I think is visible in some of my latest finishing kit pictures.
I did what David McNeill did basically...just spanned my longerons with
some angle, although I laid my angle in differently. Same basic thing.
Originally I was thinking I'd try to mount it hanging from the top of
the tailcone, but I think it would be harder to work with in future
leveling and it may move around more. It would also be closer to
any antennas you put in the roof there, but that probably doesn't
matter much.
>
> I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top
> of the tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate
> location and it appears that that powering up the battery contactor
> causes the compass to shift a few degrees. Although I havent checked
> it, I would imagine that the TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of
> the battery) would cause additional influence/error. Theres also the
> rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since theyre essentially
> stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would take care of that.
>
>
You're right that the seat belt harnesses should be able to be
calibrated out. I would think that the non-moving solenoid
might also be in that situation. The autopilot servo didn't
interfere when non-powered, so it would have to interfere
just from the motor standpoint if it is going to.
>
> I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close
> to the shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be
> difficult at best to reach later for maintenance.
>
I agree. I think that would be overkill. If it doesn't work where
I have it now, I think I'll just make a higher type of shelf for
it to mount closer to the ceiling. I'll probably have it painted
already though, so I'd build the shelf to hold it high, not
rivet through the roof in that case.
>
>
> The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and
> I believe that its recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The
> GRT approach has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out
> on a wingtip.
>
>
Here are pictures of my install:
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050905/index.html
You're right that they recommend mounting on centerline, and
near center CG, and all that stuff. But, I was also told by them
that in our small craft, it isn't really too big a deal if you
move it way forward or aft of CG, or even put it off centerline.
Those are ideals, but I think most locations you can think of would
probably work fine. That said, there aren't all that many great
locations that I could think of. I was just happy though that
the control movement didn't cause anything. I'm really guessing
it won't be an issue, but you're correct to have concerns...we're
all kind of testing these waters.
Hope the photos help...
Tim
>
> Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
>
>
>
> Bob #40105
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tank Screw Countersinks |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
you are trying to put the screw in without the skin, so it will sit
deeper, look at the page for the measurements. From the measurement you
show you are just 8 thousands over, They are listed on page 13-3, in the
lower right hand corner. For the tank skins they list 3/8 as the max on
the top opening and tapering to 7/32 as the max for the lower opening. I
would assume if you went a little large you would be ok, but you would
have to verify this with Vans. These measurements are different for the
inspection plate holes, so do those first as they are smaller.
Hope this helps
Dan 40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Tank Screw Countersinks
So...... Are these too deep? Should I start to worry now?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AHRS/Magnetometer Location |
The article on instrument panels in the current Kit Planes says Direct To
Avionics will be introducing cable kits, mounting hardware and instructions
for the proper location of the AHRS in the 10. Hope this will be available
soon.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AHRS/Magnetometer Location
>
>
> Bob, See inline:
>
>
> Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>> For those that have systems with remote magnetometers, where have you
>> located them? Have you actually tested them for interference and
>> accuracy?
>>
>>
>
> I built a shelf maybe 6" rearward of the baggage bulkhead, above the
> battery. Moving it towards the rear of that section (near the next
> bulkhead) would not be a bad option either. I may end up moving mine
> back some day if I decide to make a "hat shelf" in the upper baggage
> wall.
>
> I did do a quick test with the Chelton AHRS for magnetic interferences.
> I know Vic Syracuse had his on the floor next to the battery and
> when he had the towbar in the baggage area, he had some interference.
> In my install, I moved the control surfaces and didn't see any movement
> at all on the magnetometer. There is a PC interface that you can use
> for doing the iron calibrations, so it should be apparent if there
> is any effect. I put my towbar in the baggage area and didn't see
> any movement either. I did not do any powerup of my autopilot servos
> and did not power up a battery contactor. I'm about 20" away from those
> things. Crossbow likes 24" from any high-current or high-frequency
> things, but I'm at least on the outer edge of that spec.
>
> My shelf I think is visible in some of my latest finishing kit pictures.
> I did what David McNeill did basically...just spanned my longerons with
> some angle, although I laid my angle in differently. Same basic thing.
> Originally I was thinking I'd try to mount it hanging from the top of
> the tailcone, but I think it would be harder to work with in future
> leveling and it may move around more. It would also be closer to
> any antennas you put in the roof there, but that probably doesn't
> matter much.
>
>>
>> I was going to build a small shelf just aft of the battery near the top
>> of the tailcone. Before doing this I taped a compass in the approximate
>> location and it appears that that powering up the battery contactor
>> causes the compass to shift a few degrees. Although I havent checked
>> it, I would imagine that the TruTrack pitch servo (located just aft of
>> the battery) would cause additional influence/error. Theres also the
>> rear seat shoulder harness cables, but since theyre essentially
>> stationary I assume that calibration of the EFIS would take care of that.
>>
>>
>
> You're right that the seat belt harnesses should be able to be
> calibrated out. I would think that the non-moving solenoid
> might also be in that situation. The autopilot servo didn't
> interfere when non-powered, so it would have to interfere
> just from the motor standpoint if it is going to.
>
>
>>
>> I considered moving aft another bay which but that starts getting close
>> to the shoulder harness cable attach bolts and an area that will be
>> difficult at best to reach later for maintenance.
>>
>
> I agree. I think that would be overkill. If it doesn't work where
> I have it now, I think I'll just make a higher type of shelf for
> it to mount closer to the ceiling. I'll probably have it painted
> already though, so I'd build the shelf to hold it high, not
> rivet through the roof in that case.
>
>> The Chelton units have the AHRS and magnetometer in the same module and
>> I believe that its recommended to be mounted on the centerline. The GRT
>> approach has the magnetometer as a separate box that can be put out on a
>> wingtip.
>>
>>
>
> Here are pictures of my install:
> http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20050905/index.html
>
> You're right that they recommend mounting on centerline, and
> near center CG, and all that stuff. But, I was also told by them
> that in our small craft, it isn't really too big a deal if you
> move it way forward or aft of CG, or even put it off centerline.
> Those are ideals, but I think most locations you can think of would
> probably work fine. That said, there aren't all that many great
> locations that I could think of. I was just happy though that
> the control movement didn't cause anything. I'm really guessing
> it won't be an issue, but you're correct to have concerns...we're
> all kind of testing these waters.
>
> Hope the photos help...
> Tim
>
>>
>> Thoughts anybody? Pictures? What did you do Tim?
>>
>> Bob #40105
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
Have many of you installed the cable fairings on the tail and/or inside the
fuselage? What do you think of using proseal with no rivets?
Sean Blair
N967SB reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially the L/H
ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine case. The
aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this
bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a
3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It
appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying
the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one on the
rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had to make a
bracket that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and found a screw
that would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a picture of our setup
next time we have the top cowl off, which may not be for another several
weeks. We are going to need our 100-hour by that time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles does not fit
the engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and trim that piece to
get it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially
the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine
case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only
about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the
plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a
smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to
make things fit after trying the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips
from anyone who has a C4B5 engine that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one
on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
| From: | "RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
One possibility for the people that are going to go with the fuse block is
to use the space on the panel that would have been breakers and mount the fuse
block behind a door so they are easily accessible. Of course if you don't have
the space this wouldn't be an option.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Ailerons
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
Circuit diagrams look fine. I have the Z-12 schematic running in my -7A, using
the 8 amp standby alternator rather than the 20A, and a Nippon Denso internally
regulated main alternator, for which I added a disconnect relay (connected
to Bob's crowbar overvoltage sensor) in case of alternator voltage runaway. Works
well, though my electric gyros didn't like being on the downstream side of
the diode connecting the main bus and essential bus, since there is about a
1.2 volt drop across the diode. Simple solution to this problem has been to keep
the E-bus Alternate Feed swith on in addition to the Master switch, which
brings the essential bus up to the same voltage as the main bus.
Last week I inadvertently left the alternate feed switch on overnight and ran down
the battery to nothing during a long cross country. I discovered for the
first time that I could run both the main alternator and the standby alternator
at the same time, and increase the total amps available for running the airplane
and charging the battery. I had always figured I would have to shut the
main alternator down to prevent interactions of the two voltage regulators, but
in practice running both worked like a charm.
Bob's dual alternator circuits work well. Are you using his fuse block approach
also? That's a little less elegant in my -7A since I have to crawl under the
panel to get to the fuse blocks, but the idea is not to be replacing fuses while
flying in any case. Will be putting fuse blocks in the -10 also.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
Four weeks into the project and working on RV-10 elevators, with VS, HS and rudder
done.
> From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2005/09/26 Mon PM 12:41:28 EDT
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
>
> I've uploaded my main power distribution diagram for review. It's
> essentially a Z-12 from Aeroelectric Connection, modified a bit for
> the battery being in the tail. Please take a look and see if I've
> missed anything, other than what's actually located on each bus, as
> that's not totally finished yet.
>
> You can find it here..
> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/N428RV-pwr-dist.pdf>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didn't line
up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
casing is just a little different.
I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
your own brackets where they don't fit. Try to get the angle as close
as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
cowl since it is something you can't bend later. You also have to be
aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the ramp
itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine
is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll have to
fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower cowl on.
I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine that has gone
through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
out ok.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
Just curious,
Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
baffles to match the D4A5?
-Sean #40303
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didnt
> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
> casing is just a little different.
>
> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
> your own brackets where they dont fit. Try to get the angle as close
> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
> cowl since it is something you cant bend later. You also have to be
> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
> *To:* RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>
> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
> that has gone through this.
>
> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
> out ok.
>
> Anh
>
> #141
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
Please discontinue my rv10-list.
Thanks!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
Well, I actually have the D4A5 and it still doesn't fit.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Just curious,
Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
baffles to match the D4A5?
-Sean #40303
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didn't
> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
> casing is just a little different.
>
> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
> your own brackets where they don't fit. Try to get the angle as close
> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
> cowl since it is something you can't bend later. You also have to be
> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
> *To:* RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>
> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
> that has gone through this.
>
> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
> out ok.
>
> Anh
>
> #141
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
> From: "RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
> One possibility for the people that are going to go with the fuse block is
to use the space on the panel that would have been breakers and mount the fuse
block behind a door so they are easily accessible. Of course if you don't
have the space this wouldn't be an option.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Ailerons
Andy Karmy had a nice solution for this on his RV-9A website, shown here:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/img_0022.htm
Basically, he mounted the fuse blocks on a hinged plate between the main panel
and subpanel, with a cowl fastener to hold it in place. Quarter turn and viola,
the fuses drop down into view. Better solution than I have on my -7A, where
the fuse blocks are mounted to the firewall recess, but I didn't see it before
I had mine in place.
-Dan Masys
#40448 elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
Thanks Jesse and others. I feel a little better that at least I'm not whacked.
Included tonight are some pictures. I'm discovering some other problems yet
on the L/H fwd air ramp. Please look at them and tell me if my mitigations below
are sound:
1. The aft center bracket on top of the engine sat too high above the screw holes.
I took a shot of the screw hole itself so you can see how different it is
from the true D4A5. I ground down about 50% of the mid section of the bracket
to make it fit. Is this section now too thin that I should fabricate another?
2. First of 3 problems on the L/H air ramp. The big hole that will have a screen
underneath (not too concerned and don't know what it is for at this point)
is too close to the fiberglass lip. One of the #30 holes is actually underneath
the glass. You're supposed to trim the metal later so that the ramp lip is
almost even with the glass lip. That would cut out this #30 hole. I can either
cut a half-moon in the glass and same on the metal side so that this #30
hole will stay. Will I have difficulty installing the bottom cowl later on? Or
I can trim the entire glass lip back to expose the #30 hole. Note a picture
of 410RV shows the air seal partially covering the big hole on Tim Olson's website.
3. Second prob. The center of the smaller 3/4" hole on the same air ramp where
the prop gov cable will protrude through is about 1/2" inboard of the prop gov
arm from eyeballing it. Will I have a problem aligning and installing the
prop gov cable?
4. Third prob. One of my pictures shows my pinky pointing at a screw hole on
the engine case. A bracket goes there and I intend to have it contact the top
side of the air ramp. I don't think it will interfere with the center fwd baffle
later. Do you see any other problems with this?
The last picture is of the R/H air ramp. No problems here. I happened to see
that the glass lip of the bottom cowl is aligned with the rear of the ring gear.
Is this about how yours are? My glass lips are not too fat, are they? I
don't remember being told to trim them back when working on the cowls.
Pew! that's enough for one night. Thanks in advance. Guess I've been spoiled up
to this point (except the oil door took longer than the big door - exaggerated
a bit. What up with that) that things have been fitting together much nicer.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had to make a bracket
that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and found a screw that
would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a picture of our setup next time
we have the top cowl off, which may not be for another several weeks. We
are going to need our 100-hour by that time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles does not fit the
engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and trim that piece to get
it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:11 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially the
L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine case. The
aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only about 1/2 of
this bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the plans call for
a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt.
It appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying
the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one on
the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | My Power Distribution |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I did this as well. I created a tray for the pilot side that was 15"
wide by 8" deep that was hinged to the bottom of the sub panel. Keep in
mind that if you put it on the co-pilot side it will interfere with the
push/pull cables for the heater because they will likely be routed below
the sub panel. Also on the Pilot side, stay in enough so that it won't
interfere with the vent or naca scoop.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
> From: "RV Builder \(Michael Sausen\)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
>
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: My Power Distribution
>
> One possibility for the people that are going to go with the fuse
block is to use the space on the panel that would have been breakers and
mount the fuse block behind a door so they are easily accessible. Of
course if you don't have the space this wouldn't be an option.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Ailerons
Andy Karmy had a nice solution for this on his RV-9A website, shown
here:
http://www.karmy.com/rv9a/pictures/fuselage/electrical/img_0022.htm
Basically, he mounted the fuse blocks on a hinged plate between the main
panel and subpanel, with a cowl fastener to hold it in place. Quarter
turn and viola, the fuses drop down into view. Better solution than I
have on my -7A, where the fuse blocks are mounted to the firewall
recess, but I didn't see it before I had mine in place.
-Dan Masys
#40448 elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Just a word of caution on the air dams. I had some help in this area.
Tim James that helped with the baffle area told me to leave at least
3/8" clearance between the rear of the cowl and the front of the air
dam. He said that any less and getting the rubber up through that gap
would be a real problem. As it worked out I have one rivet on the air
inlet for the heater has 1/2 of a rivet left, we cut through it to
maintain the clearance. It has made the removal of the cowl much easier.
That gap between the rear of the cowl and the front of the air dam is
cover completely with the rubber seal material. Hope this helps. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Thanks Jesse and others. I feel a little better that at least I'm not
whacked. Included tonight are some pictures. I'm discovering some
other problems yet on the L/H fwd air ramp. Please look at them and
tell me if my mitigations below are sound:
1. The aft center bracket on top of the engine sat too high above the
screw holes. I took a shot of the screw hole itself so you can see how
different it is from the true D4A5. I ground down about 50% of the mid
section of the bracket to make it fit. Is this section now too thin
that I should fabricate another?
2. First of 3 problems on the L/H air ramp. The big hole that will
have a screen underneath (not too concerned and don't know what it is
for at this point) is too close to the fiberglass lip. One of the #30
holes is actually underneath the glass. You're supposed to trim the
metal later so that the ramp lip is almost even with the glass lip.
That would cut out this #30 hole. I can either cut a half-moon in the
glass and same on the metal side so that this #30 hole will stay. Will I
have difficulty installing the bottom cowl later on? Or I can trim the
entire glass lip back to expose the #30 hole. Note a picture of 410RV
shows the air seal partially covering the big hole on Tim Olson's
website.
3. Second prob. The center of the smaller 3/4" hole on the same air
ramp where the prop gov cable will protrude through is about 1/2"
inboard of the prop gov arm from eyeballing it. Will I have a problem
aligning and installing the prop gov cable?
4. Third prob. One of my pictures shows my pinky pointing at a screw
hole on the engine case. A bracket goes there and I intend to have it
contact the top side of the air ramp. I don't think it will interfere
with the center fwd baffle later. Do you see any other problems with
this?
The last picture is of the R/H air ramp. No problems here. I happened
to see that the glass lip of the bottom cowl is aligned with the rear of
the ring gear. Is this about how yours are? My glass lips are not too
fat, are they? I don't remember being told to trim them back when
working on the cowls.
Pew! that's enough for one night. Thanks in advance. Guess I've been
spoiled up to this point (except the oil door took longer than the big
door - exaggerated a bit. What up with that) that things have been
fitting together much nicer.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had
to make a bracket that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and
found a screw that would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a
picture of our setup next time we have the top cowl off, which may not
be for another several weeks. We are going to need our 100-hour by that
time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles
does not fit the engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and
trim that piece to get it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:11 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the ramp
itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine
is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll have to
fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower cowl on.
I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine that has gone
through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine,
another one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed
to work out ok.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd Engine baffle |
You have to make a new bracket. I had the same problem. The model year
on my engine is 1978 and it is not the same as the newer engines. When
you make the bracket it will be hard to get to the screw holding the
bracket on. I solved that problem by making the bracket in two pieces
with one part that screws on to the block and then it screws onto the
part that is riveted to the air dam part. Sorry I don't have a photo of
that bracket. Randy
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
-->
Well, I actually have the D4A5 and it still doesn't fit.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Just curious,
Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
baffles to match the D4A5?
-Sean #40303
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didn't
> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
> casing is just a little different.
>
> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
> your own brackets where they don't fit. Try to get the angle as close
> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
> cowl since it is something you can't bend later. You also have to be
> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>
> Scott Schmidt
>
> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
> *To:* RV10
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>
> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
> that has gone through this.
>
> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
> out ok.
>
> Anh
>
> #141
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
Hello All,
AirCrafters LLC is looking for help! We need builders experienced with
avionics, airframe construction, powerplant installation, maintenance, and
repair. We work on all types of experimental aircraft from ultralights to
turboprops. We're located at Watsonville Airport (WVI) near Monterey,
California. Starting wages are $20-$25/hr. If you love building airplanes,
please email a cover letter and resume to jobs(at)AirCraftersLLC.com. Please
see www.AirCraftersLLC.com for more information.
Thanks,
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
831-722-9141
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey all -
Does anyone know if the hinges provided to attach the trim tabs need
priming? They look kind of like they might be anodized, but I'm not
sure.
Thanks,
cj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
$200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy |
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a cabin
cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of them he
could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does anybody
have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Hall <phil(at)asibuildings.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy |
Jesse,
Add me to the list. I have several of their covers over the years and am
quite
satisfied with their covers.
Phil
phil(at)asibuildings.com
>
> Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>Jesse Saint
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
>>
>> I just talked to Bruce @ Bruces Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
>> cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
>> them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
>> anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
>> $200-250?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> W: 352-465-4545
>> C: 352-427-0285
>> F: 815-377-3694
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I would be interested as well. Can we get the price down to $300 even?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
CDNI Principal Engineer
Sprint PCS
16020 West 113th Street
Lenexa, KS 66219
Mailstop KSLNXK0101
(913) 859-1414 (Office)
(913) 226-0106 (Pcs)
(913) 859-1234 (Fax)
Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for
a cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making
several of them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in
doing this? Does anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover
more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type usually
used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut fabric, the
reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and perhaps even have
the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit. You or someone you
know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested? Probably be half the
prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
$200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
Good suggestion on the 3/8" gap Randy. Bottom line here is do what it takes to
make it work and be ready to undo it.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Just a word of caution on the air dams. I had some help in this area. Tim James
that helped with the baffle area told me to leave at least 3/8" clearance between
the rear of the cowl and the front of the air dam. He said that any less
and getting the rubber up through that gap would be a real problem. As it worked
out I have one rivet on the air inlet for the heater has 1/2 of a rivet
left, we cut through it to maintain the clearance. It has made the removal of
the cowl much easier. That gap between the rear of the cowl and the front of
the air dam is cover completely with the rubber seal material. Hope this helps.
Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 8:41 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Thanks Jesse and others. I feel a little better that at least I'm not whacked.
Included tonight are some pictures. I'm discovering some other problems yet
on the L/H fwd air ramp. Please look at them and tell me if my mitigations
below are sound:
1. The aft center bracket on top of the engine sat too high above the screw
holes. I took a shot of the screw hole itself so you can see how different it
is from the true D4A5. I ground down about 50% of the mid section of the bracket
to make it fit. Is this section now too thin that I should fabricate another?
2. First of 3 problems on the L/H air ramp. The big hole that will have a screen
underneath (not too concerned and don't know what it is for at this point)
is too close to the fiberglass lip. One of the #30 holes is actually underneath
the glass. You're supposed to trim the metal later so that the ramp lip
is almost even with the glass lip. That would cut out this #30 hole. I can
either cut a half-moon in the glass and same on the metal side so that this #30
hole will stay. Will I have difficulty installing the bottom cowl later on?
Or I can trim the entire glass lip back to expose the #30 hole. Note a picture
of 410RV shows the air seal partially covering the big hole on Tim Olson's
website.
3. Second prob. The center of the smaller 3/4" hole on the same air ramp where
the prop gov cable will protrude through is about 1/2" inboard of the prop
gov arm from eyeballing it. Will I have a problem aligning and installing the
prop gov cable?
4. Third prob. One of my pictures shows my pinky pointing at a screw hole on
the engine case. A bracket goes there and I intend to have it contact the top
side of the air ramp. I don't think it will interfere with the center fwd
baffle later. Do you see any other problems with this?
The last picture is of the R/H air ramp. No problems here. I happened to see
that the glass lip of the bottom cowl is aligned with the rear of the ring gear.
Is this about how yours are? My glass lips are not too fat, are they?
I don't remember being told to trim them back when working on the cowls.
Pew! that's enough for one night. Thanks in advance. Guess I've been spoiled
up to this point (except the oil door took longer than the big door - exaggerated
a bit. What up with that) that things have been fitting together much nicer.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 7:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
Anh,
With the C4B5 one of the holes you need does not exist. We had to make a bracket
that fit to another one of the holes in the engine and found a screw that
would fit. If you aren't in a hurry I can take a picture of our setup next
time we have the top cowl off, which may not be for another several weeks. We
are going to need our 100-hour by that time. It's running great.
You may also notice that the right rear section of the baffles does not fit
the engine case very well. We had to trim and trim and trim that piece to get
it to fit right.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 12:11 AM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles, especially the
L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to the engine case.
The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of the ramp. Only about 1/2 of
this bracket is making contact with the ramp itself. Also, the plans call for
a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt.
It appears that I'll have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying
the lower cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5
engine that has gone through this.
BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another one
on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work out ok.
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)nethere.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Hinges |
Chris
They are anodized. Check them with an ohm meter. they should read little or
no conductivity.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Trim Tab Hinges
>
>
> Hey all -
> Does anyone know if the hinges provided to attach the trim tabs need
> priming? They look kind of like they might be anodized, but I'm not
> sure.
>
>
> Thanks,
> cj
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Wire Routing |
I am trying to decide how route the wires from the tail cone to the
panel before I close up the baggage compartment floor boards and
passenger seat. And I am becoming overwhelmed with the amount of wire
and tubing that needs to be routed past the spar and into the tail cone.
Some of Randy's pictures on Tim's site:
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050316/IMGP0786.html>
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050306/IMGP0715.html>
<http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/20050306/IMGP0716.html>
They show wires going through 3 holes to get past the wing spar, but
there are only 2 holes per Vans design. How big can the holes go
(3/4")? Is any reinforcement necessary.
And then how did they get that much through the 3/4" conduit running
under the floor boards?
here <http://www.myrv10.com/N610RV/wire_routing/2%20%2821%29.html>
The right side would be easier because there is no baggage door, and you
have a removable panel.
Anyone making the floor boards or passenger seat removable?
or any suggestions on access panels?
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved
<http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I would be very interested in the kit at 50%
Dan Lloyd 40269
_____
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type
usually used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut
fabric, the reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and
perhaps even have the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit.
You or someone you know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested?
Probably be half the prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting
$350 for a cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were
making several of them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested
in doing this? Does anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover
more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
Same $350 price.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
$200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
Very interested
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type usually
used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut fabric, the
reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and perhaps even have
the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit. You or someone you
know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested? Probably be half the
prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for a
cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making several of
them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in doing this? Does
anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover more in the range of
$200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Also interested.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Very interested
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type
usually used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut
fabric, the reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and
perhaps even have the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit.
You or someone you know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested?
Probably be half the prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting
$350 for a cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were
making several of them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested
in doing this? Does anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover
more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
Anyone have some figures on wire sizes and amounts to order. Perhaps a
shopping list??
I am having my panel wired complete, but I still have to go from the panel
to wings, tail ect. Sure would save a lot of thinking time if someone has a
list.
Jim Wade
40834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Group Buy |
Very Interested.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
40372
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Torque tube install |
Does installing the torque tube, aileron bellcrank and aileron pushrod in
the wings before the bottom skins, get in the way of riveting the bottom
skins? I didn't know if you could still get good access to buck rivets with
the tubes in there. BTW, just saw a post from Jim Wade with a kit number
in the 800's. Wow, I didn't know Van's had sold that many yet!
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Jim - are we really up to kit #834 now?
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: wiring
Anyone have some figures on wire sizes and amounts to order. Perhaps a
shopping list??
I am having my panel wired complete, but I still have to go from the
panel to wings, tail ect. Sure would save a lot of thinking time if
someone has a list.
Jim Wade
40834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
<9F819487C44F0B4DBDB0CC0450824CEB019B54D5@ehost005-2.exch005intermedia.net>
Sorry, 383. Worked out the wiring, so please disregard previous post.
-------Original Message-------
From: John W. Cox
Date: 09/29/05 18:13:28
Subject: RE: RV10-List: wiring
Jim =96 are we really up to kit #834 now?
John - KUAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: wiring
Anyone have some figures on wire sizes and amounts to order. Perhaps a
shopping list??
I am having my panel wired complete, but I still have to go from the panel
to wings, tail ect. Sure would save a lot of thinking time if someone has a
list.
Jim Wade
40834
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see
any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled.
I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border
between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way.
On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other
reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but
maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
Albert Gardner 40-422
Yuma, Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
> From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
> Date: 2005/09/29 Thu PM 07:05:49 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: wiring
>
> Jim - are we really up to kit #834 now?
I ordered the -10 tailcone kit at OSH on 7/26/05 and got builder number 40448.
Kit was delivered 8/23/05. Unless some third world airforce just ordered a couple
of hundred of them, seems more likely it would be a typo.
Dan Masys
-7A flying
-10A elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john dalmas <jdalmas(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | damaged fuselage skins |
What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close to
dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage skin
from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to be
replaced or is there a way to repair them?
John Dalmas
#40399 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know without the context.
john dalmas wrote:
>
>
>What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
>skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close to
>dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage skin
>from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to be
>replaced or is there a way to repair them?
>
>John Dalmas
>#40399 tailcone
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | damaged fuselage skins |
Your Acceptable Methods book is a good reference for this-you can look at
this as a repair job and see what will fly according to that guide. Extra
holes can be dimpled and filled with a rivet assuming it's not a 'snowball'
kind of extra hole. Bad tears and cracks may need doublers. How much of this
do you have to deal with?
Albert Gardner,
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close to
dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage skin
from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to be
replaced or is there a way to repair them?
John Dalmas
#40399 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted on RV list" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
They are dimpled.
Ted French
RV-10 wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: September 29, 2005 5:39 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't
see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or
dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the
border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it
either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if
for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled
spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
Albert Gardner 40-422
Yuma, Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque tube install |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Torque tube install
>
> Does installing the torque tube, aileron bellcrank and aileron pushrod in
> the wings before the bottom skins, get in the way of riveting the bottom
> skins? I didn't know if you could still get good access to buck rivets
> with the tubes in there. BTW, just saw a post from Jim Wade with a kit
> number in the 800's. Wow, I didn't know Van's had sold that many yet!
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
John:
I had the ailerons and flaps built before skinning the bottom of the wing so
I mounted them, set all the linkage lengths, installed the autopilot servo
and wiring then removed the actuator tubes for the bottom skinning. Trying
to single hand rivet the skins was hard enough with the tubes out.
Dick Sipp
40065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | john dalmas <jdalmas(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
Deems, I have been checking out your website and it
has been very helpful. The top aft skin has been a
bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the rivet
gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was
outside the tailcone holding the bucking bar and the
rivet gun bounced away from the rivet/bucking bar and
tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016
doubler between the skin and the bulkhead. This would
be held very tightly on the curve with some proseal
and the 3 rivets. ?
Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get
the idea. Those are small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the
tear isn't all that big.
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know
> without the context.
>
> john dalmas wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
> >skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close
> to
> >dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
> skin
> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
> be
> >replaced or is there a way to repair them?
> >
> >John Dalmas
> >#40399 tailcone
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Leach" <papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I am a long way from complete but to save some future money, I would be
definitely interested.
Rick Leach
40397
papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type
usually used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut
fabric, the reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and
perhaps even have the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit.
You or someone you know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested?
Probably be half the prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
Try getting a price from Kennon Covers from WY.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I just talked to Bruce @ Bruce's Custom Covers. He is quoting $350 for
a cabin cover for the -10. He did mention that if he were making
several of them he could probably cut 10%. Is anybody interested in
doing this? Does anybody have an idea of where we could get a cover
more in the range of $200-250?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
In general the rivet set should be used on the manufactured head of the
rivet. it should be held firmly in place (both hands if necessary) and the
bucking bar should be allowed to slightly bounce on the other end. The
bucking bar can also "shimmed" with baffling material or wood pieces (held
on by tape) to offset it from other metal structures so that when it bounces
it will not damage the inside of the structure with metal to metal contact.
Also helpful is the "rounded flush set" for the 426 rivets, it allows for
less than perfect technique required for the standard flush sets.
Additionally any significant dings to the internal structure should be
sanded out to prevent stress cracks at a later date from the ding. my 2
cents.
----- Original Message -----
From: "john dalmas" <jdalmas(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
> Deems, I have been checking out your website and it
> has been very helpful. The top aft skin has been a
> bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the rivet
> gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was
> outside the tailcone holding the bucking bar and the
> rivet gun bounced away from the rivet/bucking bar and
> tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
> drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016
> doubler between the skin and the bulkhead. This would
> be held very tightly on the curve with some proseal
> and the 3 rivets. ?
>
> Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get
> the idea. Those are small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the
> tear isn't all that big.
>
> --- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know
>> without the context.
>>
>> john dalmas wrote:
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
>> >skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close
>> to
>> >dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
>> skin
>> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
>> be
>> >replaced or is there a way to repair them?
>> >
>> >John Dalmas
>> >#40399 tailcone
>> >
>> >__________________________________________________
>> protection around
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
John, I agree that the aft top skins are a bear, it seemed that it took
a lot more time on them than the rest of the tailcone skins. I'm not
sure about inserting the .016 between the bulkhead and the skin, I
suspect that adding it would cause problems keeping the 3 rivet holes
aligned, and might put a weird load/twist on the bulkhead itself from
the pics, it;s hard to tell which way the bulkhead tabs (inside the
tailcone) are oriented, it they are oriented 'away' ie. (on the other
side of the rivet line from the tear). you probably have enough room to
fabricate a patch that could be attached from the inside of the
tailcone, dimpled and riveted in place. the tear would be filed and
smoothed and then covered during paint prep. One thing you will want to
make sure of is that the 'tear' itself is cleaned/stop drilled so that
there are no cracks or acute angles where a hairline crack could
continue to grow. Its probably worth a call to Van's to get their input.
(for future reference, I found it easier to keep the rivet gun on the
outside and to have the helper and bucking bar inside)
less than 2 cents
Deems Davis # 406
Empennage attach (wings arrived, finally!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
john dalmas wrote:
>Deems, I have been checking out your website and it
>has been very helpful. The top aft skin has been a
>bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the rivet
>gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was
>outside the tailcone holding the bucking bar and the
>rivet gun bounced away from the rivet/bucking bar and
>tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
>drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016
>doubler between the skin and the bulkhead. This would
>be held very tightly on the curve with some proseal
>and the 3 rivets. ?
>
>Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get
>the idea. Those are small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the
>tear isn't all that big.
>
>--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know
>>without the context.
>>
>>john dalmas wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
>>>skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close
>>>
>>>
>>to
>>
>>
>>>dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>skin
>>>from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
>>be
>>
>>
>>>replaced or is there a way to repair them?
>>>
>>>John Dalmas
>>>#40399 tailcone
>>>
>>>__________________________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>protection around
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>browse
>>Subscriptions page,
>>FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
Hey John,
I see that you made it to the list. I had one of those on an elevator. If
the extra hole is small enough, drill it to size, deburr/dimple as usual and
set a rivet in place. It looks like there might be a small crack. Look at
it carefully with a magnifying glass. Stop drill the crack if there is a
crack. Then I would set a rivet in place with a doubler underneath.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "john dalmas" <jdalmas(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
>
> What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
> skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close to
> dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage skin
> from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to be
> replaced or is there a way to repair them?
>
> John Dalmas
> #40399 tailcone
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
I just got done dimpling and priming mine, made them bow some, but not
enough to hurt anything once riveted. I prefer dimpling over
countersinking wherever possible. For me it is more consistent and I
don't like how thin the material gets at the bottom of a countersink....
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert
Gardner
Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't
see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or
dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on
the border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of
it either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be
countersunk if for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap
ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
Albert Gardner 40-422
Yuma, Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Torque tube install |
They do get in the way.... I'd rivet on all the skins then install them
for good.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Subject: RV10-List: Torque tube install
-->
Does installing the torque tube, aileron bellcrank and aileron pushrod
in
the wings before the bottom skins, get in the way of riveting the bottom
skins? I didn't know if you could still get good access to buck rivets
with
the tubes in there. BTW, just saw a post from Jim Wade with a kit
number
in the 800's. Wow, I didn't know Van's had sold that many yet!
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | damaged fuselage skins |
I don't know it this is common or not, but to rivet the skins on the
tailcone we stood it up and had someone stand inside with the bucking bar.
This way we did not stress the ribs or skin. It worked very well this way.
Did anybody else try this?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of john dalmas
Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
Deems, I have been checking out your website and it
has been very helpful. The top aft skin has been a
bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the rivet
gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was
outside the tailcone holding the bucking bar and the
rivet gun bounced away from the rivet/bucking bar and
tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016
doubler between the skin and the bulkhead. This would
be held very tightly on the curve with some proseal
and the 3 rivets. ?
Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get
the idea. Those are small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the
tear isn't all that big.
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know
> without the context.
>
> john dalmas wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
> >skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close
> to
> >dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
> skin
> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
> be
> >replaced or is there a way to repair them?
> >
> >John Dalmas
> >#40399 tailcone
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
What is a "Cabin Cover"???
Thanks,
Jay
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type
usually used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut
fabric, the reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and
perhaps even have the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit.
You or someone you know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested?
Probably be half the prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schroeder <tristarcapt(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
Hi,
Vans say's that .040 is to thick to dimple and to thin to
countersink, they recommend combining the two, dimple first then with
a rivet on hand use a deburring tool to countersink the rest of the
way checking with the rivet. Here's the quote from the plans,
"(Dimpling the spar is a special case. It is 0.040" thick - a bit
thick to dimple well and a bit thin to machine countersink safely.
So, we combine methods by dimpling first, then enlarging the dimple
with the hand deburring tool. This is done by eye and tested by
dropping a rivet in the hole to determine fit.)"
Scott
On Sep 29, 2005, at 7:38 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I
> don't see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be
> countersunk or dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040
> inches so it's right on the border between dimpling and
> countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the
> other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other
> reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled
> spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
>
> Albert Gardner 40-422
>
> Yuma, Arizona
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | damaged fuselage skins |
How did you insert person? Did you raise the tail cone up with pulleys,
then lower it down on dummy, er, person standing there? Got to see this.
Pictures?
John Jessen
40328 HS and looking for someone a lot skinnier than me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
I don't know it this is common or not, but to rivet the skins on the
tailcone we stood it up and had someone stand inside with the bucking bar.
This way we did not stress the ribs or skin. It worked very well this way.
Did anybody else try this?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of john dalmas
Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
Deems, I have been checking out your website and it has been very helpful.
The top aft skin has been a bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the
rivet gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was outside the
tailcone holding the bucking bar and the rivet gun bounced away from the
rivet/bucking bar and tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016 doubler between the
skin and the bulkhead. This would be held very tightly on the curve with
some proseal and the 3 rivets. ?
Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get the idea. Those are
small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the tear isn't all that big.
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know without the context.
>
> john dalmas wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >What can be done about damage done to the fuselage skin? For
> >example: inadvertent drill holes close
> to
> >dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
> skin
> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
> be
> >replaced or is there a way to repair them?
> >
> >John Dalmas
> >#40399 tailcone
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin Cover Group Buy |
I assume this was tongue in cheek, but, a cabin cover covers the canopy area
to protect from dirt and dust, weather, UV, snooping eyes. Also available
are wing covers, tail covers and prop covers to help in those frost and snow
months.
Will be getting back to everyone on the details of the canopy cover kit. I
think this is doable. We'll probably get the measurements and practice on
Randy's bird. Randy, that ok with you?
John Jessen
40328 HS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
-->
What is a "Cabin Cover"???
Thanks,
Jay
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cabin Cover Group Buy
I have a friend who may be able to secure fabric of the same type
usually used for these covers, get it cut correctly, supply the cut
fabric, the reinforced corner materials, the straps and buckles, and
perhaps even have the N number embroidered on each side, but as a kit.
You or someone you know would sew it where needed. Anyone interested?
Probably be half the prices you are seeing.
John Jessen
40328 HS
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | damaged fuselage skins |
We put it up on a padded table (like the height of a coffee table) or saw
horses, and the person just climbed in from underneath. It may have looked
dumb, but it worked great.
(Note: "Dummy" inside tail cone left out for clarity!)
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
How did you insert person? Did you raise the tail cone up with pulleys,
then lower it down on dummy, er, person standing there? Got to see this.
Pictures?
John Jessen
40328 HS and looking for someone a lot skinnier than me.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
I don't know it this is common or not, but to rivet the skins on the
tailcone we stood it up and had someone stand inside with the bucking bar.
This way we did not stress the ribs or skin. It worked very well this way.
Did anybody else try this?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of john dalmas
Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
Deems, I have been checking out your website and it has been very helpful.
The top aft skin has been a bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the
rivet gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was outside the
tailcone holding the bucking bar and the rivet gun bounced away from the
rivet/bucking bar and tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016 doubler between the
skin and the bulkhead. This would be held very tightly on the curve with
some proseal and the 3 rivets. ?
Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get the idea. Those are
small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the tear isn't all that big.
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know without the context.
>
> john dalmas wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >What can be done about damage done to the fuselage skin? For
> >example: inadvertent drill holes close
> to
> >dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
> skin
> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
> be
> >replaced or is there a way to repair them?
> >
> >John Dalmas
> >#40399 tailcone
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
That Cub hanging above you get hit by some wind and/or hail? That looks
like a restoration project waiting to happen! :)
-Sean #40303
Jesse Saint wrote:
> We put it up on a padded table (like the height of a coffee table) or saw
> horses, and the person just climbed in from underneath. It may have looked
> dumb, but it worked great.
>
> (Note: "Dummy" inside tail cone left out for clarity!)
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 11:29 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
>
> How did you insert person? Did you raise the tail cone up with pulleys,
> then lower it down on dummy, er, person standing there? Got to see this.
> Pictures?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS and looking for someone a lot skinnier than me.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 6:14 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
>
> I don't know it this is common or not, but to rivet the skins on the
> tailcone we stood it up and had someone stand inside with the bucking bar.
> This way we did not stress the ribs or skin. It worked very well this way.
> Did anybody else try this?
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of john dalmas
> Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 10:52 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
> Deems, I have been checking out your website and it has been very helpful.
> The top aft skin has been a bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the
> rivet gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was outside the
> tailcone holding the bucking bar and the rivet gun bounced away from the
> rivet/bucking bar and tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
> drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016 doubler between the
> skin and the bulkhead. This would be held very tightly on the curve with
> some proseal and the 3 rivets. ?
>
> Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get the idea. Those are
> small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the tear isn't all that big.
>
> --- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know without the context.
>>
>> john dalmas wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>> What can be done about damage done to the fuselage skin? For
>>> example: inadvertent drill holes close
>>>
>> to
>>
>>> dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
>>>
>> skin
>> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
>> be
>>
>>> replaced or is there a way to repair them?
>>>
>>> John Dalmas
>>> #40399 tailcone
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>> protection around
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | corrosion protection of the outer skins |
Hey all,
I'm working through my tail section and am probably either going to
paint the exterior of the peices when they are all completed or take
them all to a shop to have it painted when the kit is completed. I
looked at my horizontal stabilizer the other day and I noticed that
there was a big handprint (probably mine) that looked kind of gray and
fuzzy (and tough to wipe off so it wasn't just oil). Given that the
whole package wont be ready for paint for probably a year or more is
there something that I should do to ensure that I don't get corrosion
starting on the skins? When I was at vans they apparently put a light
coat of wd40 on them, which I am thinking about doing. Should I clean
it first, and if so with what? Or will the wd take care of it?
Thanks,
James
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
Scot,
That's interesting! A combination of dimpling and CS the flap spar was not
mentioned in my plans. The plans I have indicate dimpling of the spar which
is what I did and it worked OK. Step #6 page 22-5 is my reference. Seems to
me that trying to CS after dimpling would result in a big mess.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
Jesse,
Wish I had thought of that! I crawled inside of mine to buck. Laid
lots of padding on the fuse bottom and I didn't hurt a thing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
A friend of mine just got the "practice kit" from vans and dimple then
countersink are the instructions for the spar there as well.
Interestingly enough, the new practice kit has two projects in it now
and the wing section piece is all prepunched... I kind of liked the old
kit because you knew the prepunched kit was going to be easier and if
you could do the practice kit you knew you were good to go.
In my EAA sheetmetal class the instructor basically said that .040 you
can either dimple or countersink, you just have to be very careful with
the countersink. We used the countersink on the practice kit and it
seemed to do a pretty good job, without removing too much material. I'd
be concerned with dimpling first because it tends to enlarge the hole
which can lead to countersink bit chatter. I'd say just do it however
you feel comfortable, but go really slow and be very careful with each hole.
James
#40400
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> Scot,
> That's interesting! A combination of dimpling and CS the flap
> spar was not mentioned in my plans. The plans I have indicate
> dimpling of the spar which is what I did and it worked OK. Step #6
> page 22-5 is my reference. Seems to me that trying to CS after
> dimpling would result in a big mess.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
Same here...
-Sean #40303
John Hasbrouck wrote:
> Scot,
> That's interesting! A combination of dimpling and CS the flap
> spar was not mentioned in my plans. The plans I have indicate
> dimpling of the spar which is what I did and it worked OK. Step #6
> page 22-5 is my reference. Seems to me that trying to CS after
> dimpling would result in a big mess.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Temporary Wheels - Correct pictures this time |
Looks like the beginning of a light sport aircraft
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Combs
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Temporary Wheels - Correct pictures this time
Sorry, grabbed the wrong pictures.
Jim C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bud Newhall <RV-6(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Builder assistance available |
Greetings
You want an RV but don't have the time to build it.
I can help.
I am a machinist by trade. I completed an RV-6 in 2200 hrs. (no
prepunced holes) and assisted on 2 others.
I am available to work on a project full time.
I am located in Lodi, CA.
Bud Newhall
RV-6(at)comcast.net
209-334-2911
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Schroeder" <tristarcapt(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
Hi,
Sorry, should have been more specific. The instructions came from the Van's Training
Project., where you contruct a piece of a control surface. I thought I
remembered it, looked it up and sure enough there it was, I figured it may be
relevant since this is exactly what you were talking about. Here's the scanned
image of the relevant portion of the plans. When I did it, sure enough the
dimple wasn't quite deep enough to accept the dimpled skin. 2 -4 turns of the
deburring bit in a cordless screwdriver left plenty of material in the dimpled
spar and allowed for the skin to sit in flush. Thought it might be useful
information.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hasbrouck
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
Scot,
That's interesting! A combination of dimpling and CS the flap spar was
not mentioned in my plans. The plans I have indicate dimpling of the spar which
is what I did and it worked OK. Step #6 page 22-5 is my reference. Seems
to me that trying to CS after dimpling would result in a big mess.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | damaged fuselage skins |
Actually, that Cub got hit by machetes and spears. It was used as a prop in
a movie (www.endofthespear.com). We got a couple of messed up wings and a
fuselage that would probably never be able to fly again anyway and put that
together.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
That Cub hanging above you get hit by some wind and/or hail? That looks
like a restoration project waiting to happen! :)
-Sean #40303
Jesse Saint wrote:
> We put it up on a padded table (like the height of a coffee table) or saw
> horses, and the person just climbed in from underneath. It may have
looked
> dumb, but it worked great.
>
> (Note: "Dummy" inside tail cone left out for clarity!)
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 11:29 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
>
> How did you insert person? Did you raise the tail cone up with pulleys,
> then lower it down on dummy, er, person standing there? Got to see this.
> Pictures?
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS and looking for someone a lot skinnier than me.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 6:14 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
>
> I don't know it this is common or not, but to rivet the skins on the
> tailcone we stood it up and had someone stand inside with the bucking bar.
> This way we did not stress the ribs or skin. It worked very well this
way.
> Did anybody else try this?
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of john dalmas
> Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 10:52 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
> Deems, I have been checking out your website and it has been very
helpful.
> The top aft skin has been a bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the
> rivet gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was outside the
> tailcone holding the bucking bar and the rivet gun bounced away from the
> rivet/bucking bar and tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking
about
> drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016 doubler between the
> skin and the bulkhead. This would be held very tightly on the curve with
> some proseal and the 3 rivets. ?
>
> Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get the idea. Those are
> small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the tear isn't all that big.
>
> --- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know without the context.
>>
>> john dalmas wrote:
>>
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>> What can be done about damage done to the fuselage skin? For
>>> example: inadvertent drill holes close
>>>
>> to
>>
>>> dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
>>>
>> skin
>> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
>> be
>>
>>> replaced or is there a way to repair them?
>>>
>>> John Dalmas
>>> #40399 tailcone
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>> protection around
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | damaged fuselage skins |
Yes!
I did that too! I was afraid to mention that on the list, but it does work! You
have to be carefull with the corner piece next to the baggage door though.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 09:13:42 -0400
I don't know it this is common or not, but to rivet the skins on the
tailcone we stood it up and had someone stand inside with the bucking bar.
This way we did not stress the ribs or skin. It worked very well this way.
Did anybody else try this?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of john dalmas
Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
Deems, I have been checking out your website and it
has been very helpful. The top aft skin has been a
bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with the rivet
gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was
outside the tailcone holding the bucking bar and the
rivet gun bounced away from the rivet/bucking bar and
tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking about
drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016
doubler between the skin and the bulkhead. This would
be held very tightly on the curve with some proseal
and the 3 rivets. ?
Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get
the idea. Those are small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the
tear isn't all that big.
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know
> without the context.
>
> john dalmas wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >What can be done about damage done to the fuselage
> >skin? For example: inadvertent drill holes close
> to
> >dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
> skin
> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
> be
> >replaced or is there a way to repair them?
> >
> >John Dalmas
> >#40399 tailcone
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
My suggestion is to either replace the part or stop drill the tear at all corners
and apply a patch IAW the AC 41.31. If left as is it will expand and eventually
cause a skin failure. My 2 penny's.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: damaged fuselage skins |
looking forward to seeing the movie Jesse ! looks interesting .
Brian Bollaert
#40200
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
> Actually, that Cub got hit by machetes and spears. It was used as a prop
in
> a movie (www.endofthespear.com). We got a couple of messed up wings and a
> fuselage that would probably never be able to fly again anyway and put
that
> together.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> W: 352-465-4545
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 12:30 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
>
>
> That Cub hanging above you get hit by some wind and/or hail? That looks
> like a restoration project waiting to happen! :)
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Jesse Saint wrote:
> > We put it up on a padded table (like the height of a coffee table) or
saw
> > horses, and the person just climbed in from underneath. It may have
> looked
> > dumb, but it worked great.
> >
> > (Note: "Dummy" inside tail cone left out for clarity!)
> >
> > Jesse Saint
> > I-TEC, Inc.
> > jesse(at)itecusa.org
> > www.itecusa.org
> > W: 352-465-4545
> > C: 352-427-0285
> > F: 815-377-3694
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
> > Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 11:29 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
> >
> >
> > How did you insert person? Did you raise the tail cone up with pulleys,
> > then lower it down on dummy, er, person standing there? Got to see
this.
> > Pictures?
> >
> > John Jessen
> > 40328 HS and looking for someone a lot skinnier than me.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> > Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 6:14 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
> >
> >
> > I don't know it this is common or not, but to rivet the skins on the
> > tailcone we stood it up and had someone stand inside with the bucking
bar.
> > This way we did not stress the ribs or skin. It worked very well this
> way.
> > Did anybody else try this?
> >
> > Jesse Saint
> > I-TEC, Inc.
> > jesse(at)itecusa.org
> > www.itecusa.org
> > W: 352-465-4545
> > C: 352-427-0285
> > F: 815-377-3694
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of john dalmas
> > Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 10:52 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: damaged fuselage skins
> >
> > Deems, I have been checking out your website and it has been very
> helpful.
> > The top aft skin has been a bear. I crawled inside the tailcone with
the
> > rivet gun and its spring hit the bulkhead. My helper was outside the
> > tailcone holding the bucking bar and the rivet gun bounced away from the
> > rivet/bucking bar and tore a hole in the tailcone skin. I am thinking
> about
> > drilling out the 3 rivets (see pic) and sliding a .016 doubler between
the
> > skin and the bulkhead. This would be held very tightly on the curve
with
> > some proseal and the 3 rivets. ?
> >
> > Sorry about the picture quality, but I think you get the idea. Those
are
> > small rivets AN426 3-3.5, and the tear isn't all that big.
> >
> > --- Deems Davis wrote:
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> John, can you post some pics? It's hard to know without the context.
> >>
> >> john dalmas wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>> What can be done about damage done to the fuselage skin? For
> >>> example: inadvertent drill holes close
> >>>
> >> to
> >>
> >>> dimpled rivet holes, and small tears in fuselage
> >>>
> >> skin
> >> >from bouncing rivet guns? Do these panels need to
> >> be
> >>
> >>> replaced or is there a way to repair them?
> >>>
> >>> John Dalmas
> >>> #40399 tailcone
> >>>
> >>> __________________________________________________
> >>>
> >> protection around
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> browse
> >> Subscriptions page,
> >> FAQ,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | vetterman exaust |
I am posting this info re: the vetterman exaust system for the -10 , i purchased the system from Vans (good system ) instructions for this system do not come in the firewall forward kit ! , the instructions in the box are 2 hand sketches on 8 1/2 by 11 pages thats ok for someone who is familier with doing this sort of thing , but for those that are not good instructions and pics are invaluable . It turns out that there are 2 companies that make this sytem Larry Vetterman & his company makes the pipes from the engine to the exaust muffler then http://www.aircraftexhaust.net makes the muffler back they have some good pics on there web site (the contact at the 2nd co is Chris Stepp) .
Adjusting the brackets left &b right at the end were chalanging to say the least
!
Any comments about this from anyone else ?
Brian Bollaert
#40200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | vetterman exhaust |
Just to confirm, does the RV-10 exhaust system include a muffler? I
couldn't find any reference to the -10 exhaust other than it's included in
the firewall forward kit on Van's website. The other exhaust systems don't
include a muffler but I'm sure it would be nice. It seems like I remember a
note some time ago from one of the folks with a flying -10 that it was
pretty quiet.
Next question, does anyone know if there's any significant thrust loss due
to the muffler?
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian bollaert
Subject: RV10-List: vetterman exaust
I am posting this info re: the vetterman exaust system for the -10 , i
purchased the system from Vans (good system ) instructions for this system
do not come in the firewall forward kit ! , the instructions in the box are
2 hand sketches on 8 1/2 by 11 pages thats ok for someone who is familier
with doing this sort of thing , but for those that are not good instructions
and pics are invaluable . It turns out that there are 2 companies that make
this sytem Larry Vetterman & his company makes the pipes from the engine to
the exaust muffler then http://www.aircraftexhaust.net makes the muffler
back they have some good pics on there web site (the contact at the 2nd co
is Chris Stepp) .
Adjusting the brackets left &b right at the end were chalanging to say the
least !
Any comments about this from anyone else ?
Brian Bollaert
#40200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | vetterman exhaust |
Marcus,
Yes, the Vetterman exhaust actually comes with 2 mufflers, one for each
side. I don't know how it affects performance as opposed to no mufflers,
but they say that the first exhaust system they had (I don't know who made
it) had only one muffler and the Vetterman has more power than that system.
Van's retro-fitted their first -10 with the Vetterman.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: vetterman exhaust
Just to confirm, does the RV-10 exhaust system include a muffler? I
couldn't find any reference to the -10 exhaust other than it's included in
the firewall forward kit on Van's website. The other exhaust systems don't
include a muffler but I'm sure it would be nice. It seems like I remember a
note some time ago from one of the folks with a flying -10 that it was
pretty quiet.
Next question, does anyone know if there's any significant thrust loss due
to the muffler?
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of brian bollaert
Subject: RV10-List: vetterman exaust
I am posting this info re: the vetterman exaust system for the -10 , i
purchased the system from Vans (good system ) instructions for this system
do not come in the firewall forward kit ! , the instructions in the box are
2 hand sketches on 8 1/2 by 11 pages thats ok for someone who is familier
with doing this sort of thing , but for those that are not good instructions
and pics are invaluable . It turns out that there are 2 companies that make
this sytem Larry Vetterman & his company makes the pipes from the engine to
the exaust muffler then http://www.aircraftexhaust.net makes the muffler
back they have some good pics on there web site (the contact at the 2nd co
is Chris Stepp) .
Adjusting the brackets left &b right at the end were chalanging to say the
least !
Any comments about this from anyone else ?
Brian Bollaert
#40200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd Engine baffle |
The C4B5 and D4A5 both use the same crank case, LW-11033. In fact, as
far as I can tell from looking at the Lycoming parts manual, the C4B5
and D4A5 are part-for-part identical. Same crank case, same crank
shaft, cam shaft, push rods, pistons and cylinders, gears, etc. The
only difference I can find in the parts catalog is that there is
apparently a configuration of the D4A5 that *can* use a different oil
dipstick (see page 1-3 of theparts catalog).
I asked Lycoming about this at OSH this year and last. Lycoming tech
support confirmed that the engines are identical, and you can run the
C4B5 at 2700 rpm and get 260 HP with no problem, despite the C4B5's data
plate rating of 2600 rpm and 250 HP.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> Just curious,
>
> Is this only an issue with the C4B5? I assume Van's probably made the
> baffles to match the D4A5?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>>
>> I just went through this as well. On the left side I had to make a new
>> bracket because the one provided was off by quite a bit and didnt
>> line up at all. The baffles are definitely a pain. I think each engine
>> casing is just a little different.
>>
>> I will take some pictures tonight but you will just have to fabricate
>> your own brackets where they dont fit. Try to get the angle as close
>> as possible on the ramp by lining it up with the bottom opening of the
>> cowl since it is something you cant bend later. You also have to be
>> aware of the rivets and nutplates that are added later.
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>>
>> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *DejaVu
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2005 10:11 PM
>> *To:* RV10
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Fwd Engine baffle
>>
>> I'm not having a lot of luck fitting the fwd air ramp baffles,
>> especially the L/H ramp. There's two brackets to bolt this air ramp to
>> the engine case. The aft one is fine. The fwd one sets the angle of
>> the ramp. Only about 1/2 of this bracket is making contact with the
>> ramp itself. Also, the plans call for a 3/8" bolt. The hole on the
>> engine is made to accept a smaller 10-24 bolt. It appears that I'll
>> have to fab another bracket to make things fit after trying the lower
>> cowl on. I would appreciate tips from anyone who has a C4B5 engine
>> that has gone through this.
>>
>> BTW, so far I had to fab the aft bracket on top of the engine, another
>> one on the rear of the cyl #5 baffle assembly. All else seemed to work
>> out ok.
>>
>> Anh
>>
>> #141
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
I don't have a set of vise-grip #40 dimplers. Is there a way to dimple the
last two holes of the counterbalance tip rib that don't allow the squeezer
in there without having to wait for an order from Avery?
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Rob, I made my own set of vice grip dimplers. I simple drilled a hole in
each jaw of an existing pair of vice grips that was large enough to hold
the dimple set (3/16?) it turned out great, I use them frequently where
I can't get the other options to fit. The good news is that pop out the
dimple dies and you've still got a good pair of vice grips. and you can
use them for multiple sizes.
Deems Davis # 406
Empennage fairings (wings finally arrived)
http://deemsrv10.com/
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> I dont have a set of vise-grip #40 dimplers. Is there a way to dimple
> the last two holes of the counterbalance tip rib that dont allow the
> squeezer in there without having to wait for an order from Avery?
>
> Rob
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Rob,
You can make your own female dimple die from a piece of angle iron and your
#40 countersink. 1/8 inch thick angle works fine. Polish the edges and drill
a #40 hole close to the edge, close enough so you can fit it in the tip rib.
Then countersink that hole. Use your male die to dimple the skin with the female
in the angle iron.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engine choice |
I had a chance to buy a used DeMars engine for a great price. I called Vans
and they told me that most 260 Lycs work. So I got a AEIO540D4B5. I did
not need the aerobatic function but it came with the package. I received
the engine this week and it looks like I have the correct ears, but it is a
rear inlet for the injector/ air tube and remote mount injector.
It looks to me that the cross tube on the motor mount will conflict with the
inlet. Anyone have any light to shead on this. If it is a problem, what is
the solution? Can I buy a new cold induction box that has a forward
opening?
Thanks for comments.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV10 Builder in Houston ? |
I may be overnight at Hobby Field Monday and/or Tuesday. Any 10 builders in
that area that don't mind a visitor.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
BHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Bellcrank Bushing |
I need to ream the bushing for the aileron bellcrank for the AN4 bolt. Any
ideas on how best to do this. The thing's over 2 1/2 inches long and
difficult to mount in my drill press. Best to use a 1/4 inch drill or a
ream? Any suggestion appreciated!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing |
I took mine to a machine shop (where I work). They chucked it into a lathe and
then used a reamer. At least use a reamer.
There are bushings and various pieces that "should" be machined if at all possible.
Jim Combs
#40192 - 312F Fuselage
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2005 21:19:47 -0400
I need to ream the bushing for the aileron bellcrank for the AN4 bolt. Any
ideas on how best to do this. The thing's over 2 1/2 inches long and
difficult to mount in my drill press. Best to use a 1/4 inch drill or a
ream? Any suggestion appreciated!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Engine choice |
I thought I saw somewhere that he was going to a different gear ratio on the PSRU
to allow the engine to run slightly higher RPM to get more horsepower.
I watched a video and got real uncomfortable with the engine running 5000 + RPM
on takeoff and around 4000 RPM on cruise. I know the Subaru engines are known
to handle the high RPM for long periods. But It really made me rethink the
engine choice.
The last time I checked, there were no higher insurance premiums to using his FWF
package either. That's a big plus for him and his work.
He's got quite a few RV's racking up flying time.
Still watching his work (yet still searching for a Lyco too!)
Jim Combs
#40192 - N312F Reserved - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-10 propeller test? |
Hi All,
Is anyone willing to test both the RV-10 MT Propeller and the RV-10 Hartzell
propeller on their flying RV-10?
Please contact me directly at _jim(at)lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com) ,
or call me at (805) 795-5377.
Van's Aircraft hasn't had time available with their RV-10 to test the RV-10
MT Propeller.
The Hartzell propeller Van's Aircraft sells to RV-10 builders, model number
C2YR-1BFP/F8068D, is unique to the RV-10.
In talking with Hartzell, apparently the C2YR-1BFP/F8068D propeller can only
be purchased from Van's Aircraft.
And Van's Aircraft can only sell one Hartzell propeller to each builder.
Do you see were this is going?
The Hartzell builders are the only ones with the RV-10 Hartzell propellers.
It looks like it is up to someone with a flying RV-10 using a Hartzell
propeller to step forward, if both propellers are to be tested on a common
airframe.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AndrewTR30(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing |
After screwwing one up in my drill press I took the reamer to a machine
shop. He chucked it into a lathe and it came out fine.
Andrew Rayhill
Wing tips
Phoenix
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
Keep up the good work
paul walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert Gardner
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see any
instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled. I
measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border between
dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the other
hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other reason it would
be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong.
Any help here?
Albert Gardner 40-422
Yuma, Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Where to start on Emp kit |
Paul,
The plans/instructions for the 10 by default, go in the following order:
1. Vertical Stab
2. Rudder
3. Horizontal Stab
4. Elevators
5. Trim Tabs
6. Tailcone
Kent Forsythe
40338
Tailcone
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
Keep up the good work
paul walter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
Follow the plans and start with the VS.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal
stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far
easier way to commence project.
With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me.
Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
Keep up the good work
paul walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Albert <mailto:ibspud(at)adelphia.net> Gardner
Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see
any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled.
I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border
between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way.
On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other
reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but
maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
Albert Gardner 40-422
Yuma, Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Where to start on Emp kit |
Follow the sequence of the plans and start with the Vert Stab and then
rudder. The horizontal is long.
Larry
N205EN
http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/
Kent Forsythe wrote:
>
>Paul,
>
>The plans/instructions for the 10 by default, go in the following order:
>
>1. Vertical Stab
>2. Rudder
>3. Horizontal Stab
>4. Elevators
>5. Trim Tabs
>6. Tailcone
>
>Kent Forsythe
>40338
>Tailcone
>
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server.at.matronics.com(at)matronix.rv10.at.4sythe.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
>Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:16 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>
>When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
>
>With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>
>Keep up the good work
>
>
>paul walter
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing |
John,
You don't need to remove a whole lot of material. I drilled a wood block the size
of the outside diameter with the drill press then put the bushing into the
block, wraped it with tape and held it from rotating with a vise grip. lubed a
1/4" bit and made two passes one from the top and flipped it over to finish.
The bearing gets clamped by the bolt in the hinge bracket, the bellcrank rotates
on the outside of the bracket so a super precise reaming is not needed. Mine
is in and rigged and there was not slop in the bolt to bushing fit as a matter
of fact it is nice and snug as it goes through the bushing. Once the drill
starts it followed the bushing hole right on through. Clean the inside of the
bushing lip first with a file to get rid of any burrs prior to drilling.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Group buy on covers. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Here is a response from Abby on the light weight travel covers. Randy
________________________________
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS [mailto:flightline(at)tds.net]
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Group buy on covers.
Sorry, I didn't even really answer your questions. I don't have it
patterned right now, but given a little time I could have it patterned.
It is made of Ripstop Nylon fabric. It would come with its own storage
bag. They would probably be somewhere around $225 each. Thanks, Abby
----- Original Message -----
From: Erdmann's <mailto:erdmannb(at)execpc.com>
To: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:47 AM
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy's Abros mail <mailto:randy(at)abros.com>
To: erdmannb(at)execpc.com
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: Group buy on covers.
The RV10 list is all a flutter with people wanting to be
involved in a group buy (my guess is 15 to 20) on canopy covers for the
10. They have been taking to Bruce at Bruce's Covers. I think most
don't want the heavy cover. I think if you give your regular price and
what it is made of and what includes I can relay it to the group and
give them an option. Thanks and I hope things are will. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flap spar: countersink or dimple? |
To Paul Walter,please be careful with the VS nose ribs do not try to fit the skin
,you need to chop a piece at front before try to cleco the skin,read the HS
instructions before .
Hugo
>
> From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
> Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 08:36:26 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
> Follow the plans and start with the VS.
>
> John Jessen
> 40328 HS
>
> _____
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter
> Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:16 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>
> I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>
> When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal
> stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far
> easier way to commence project.
>
> With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me.
> Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>
> Keep up the good work
>
>
> paul walter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Albert <mailto:ibspud(at)adelphia.net> Gardner
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>
> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see
> any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled.
> I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border
> between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way.
> On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other
> reason it would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but
> maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
>
> Albert Gardner 40-422
>
> Yuma, Arizona
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Group buy on covers. |
Randy,
I have surfed your site and watched your videos. Excellent job. Do you
have a rudder trim assembly on your 10?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
| From: | Randy DeBauw [mailto:Randy(at)abros.com] |
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Group buy on covers.
Here is a response from Abby on the light weight travel covers. Randy
________________________________
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS [mailto:flightline(at)tds.net]
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: Group buy on covers.
Sorry, I didn't even really answer your questions. I don't have it
patterned right now, but given a little time I could have it patterned.
It is made of Ripstop Nylon fabric. It would come with its own storage
bag. They would probably be somewhere around $225 each. Thanks, Abby
----- Original Message -----
From: Erdmann's <mailto:erdmannb(at)execpc.com>
To: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:47 AM
Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers.
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy's Abros mail <mailto:randy(at)abros.com>
To: erdmannb(at)execpc.com
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:20 PM
Subject: Group buy on covers.
The RV10 list is all a flutter with people wanting to be
involved in a group buy (my guess is 15 to 20) on canopy covers for the
10. They have been taking to Bruce at Bruce's Covers. I think most
don't want the heavy cover. I think if you give your regular price and
what it is made of and what includes I can relay it to the group and
give them an option. Thanks and I hope things are will. Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: order of build |
Had the same observation about the -7A emp, and it is also true for the -10: the
vertical stabilizer is the easiest piece to begin with. (Which is to say the
order in which the plans read.) Just watch out that you take the sharp corner
off of the VS nose ribs so you don't get the little bump in the skin that most
unsuspecting -10 builders get.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
RV-10 elevators
> From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
> Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 06:15:38 EDT
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
> I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>
> When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on horizontal stabilizer,
how ever it is my opinion the the verticle stabilizer is a far easier
way to commence project.
>
> With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help me. Which
part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>
> Keep up the good work
>
>
> paul walter
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Albert Gardner
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>
>
> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't see
any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or dimpled.
I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on the border between
dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of it either way. On the
other hand I'm pretty sure it should be countersunk if for no other reason it
would be hard to install the flap ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong.
Any help here?
>
> Albert Gardner 40-422
>
> Yuma, Arizona
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: order of build |
thanks Dan.
All the little tips this site provides are invaluable.
Take care
Regards paul Walter
Horsham, Victoria, Australia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Re: order of build
>
> Had the same observation about the -7A emp, and it is also true for
> the -10: the vertical stabilizer is the easiest piece to begin with.
> (Which is to say the order in which the plans read.) Just watch out that
> you take the sharp corner off of the VS nose ribs so you don't get the
> little bump in the skin that most unsuspecting -10 builders get.
>
> -Dan Masys
> RV-7A flying
> RV-10 elevators
>
>> From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
>> Date: 2005/10/03 Mon AM 06:15:38 EDT
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>>
>> I was wondering if any one can answer the following.
>>
>> When I commenced emp on my 7A Vans recommended work to begin on
>> horizontal stabilizer, how ever it is my opinion the the verticle
>> stabilizer is a far easier way to commence project.
>>
>> With my 10 emp on the way and an enthusastic young friend keen to help
>> me. Which part of the 10 empenage would best suit to kick things off.
>>
>> Keep up the good work
>>
>>
>> paul walter
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Albert Gardner
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Friday, September 30, 2005 10:38 AM
>> Subject: RV10-List: flap spar: countersink or dimple?
>>
>>
>> I'm currently working on my flaps (section 22 in the plans) and I don't
>> see any instruction on whether the flaps spar should be countersunk or
>> dimpled. I measured the spar thickness at .040 inches so it's right on
>> the border between dimpling and countersinking-I suppose it could go of
>> it either way. On the other hand I'm pretty sure it should be
>> countersunk if for no other reason it would be hard to install the flap
>> ribs into a dimpled spar but maybe I'm wrong. Any help here?
>>
>> Albert Gardner 40-422
>>
>> Yuma, Arizona
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank Bushing |
Rick,
Great idea! I'll give that a try. Thanks to all who replied
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Builder in Houston ? |
We have two on the northwest side of Houston at David Wayne Hooks (DWH) airport
near Spring and Tomball..
My Phone is 281-655-9363
Patrick Thyssen
DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com wrote:
I may be overnight at Hobby Field Monday and/or Tuesday. Any 10 builders in that
area that don't mind a visitor.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
BHM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Yep, going with the Van's aileron trim option. Don't know if it's on their web
page or not, came out the same time as OSH.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned a
few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin structure??
I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is bright, also you
can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice addition with all
that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
=09
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Soundproofing Material |
I am getting ready to close up the front floor boards. I know many are
using the super Soundproofing sheets from Aircraft Spruce
<http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/soundproof.html>. However, this
is the material that I am going to be using
<http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html>. It is B-Quiet Ultimate. A
flexible composite material with an aluminum top layer. It is 1.6mm
thick and weighs 0.35 lb/sqft.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Re: order of build |
Ha!!
As unspecting RV-10 builders, we found this problem in the pioneer days of the
RV-10..... on the old Yahoo list, we were a brave lot until a "Pide Piper" named
Tim Olson led this early group of builders (minus our jester James McClow
and the new airport home owner "just build" it guy named Brian Denk) to the land
of good archives named "Matronics" There was talk of shims, reworking the
nose ribs....but in the end, all you could really do was polish out the steps
in the nose rib and hope for the best. If you could go back in time two + years
ago, myself and other builders would go to the HS on N410RV at any show it was
appearing, just to confirm that Van's did the same thing we did, and THEY
DID!!! Flat spots on the skin where the nose ribs fit. Mine are not too bad but
are still there. (Better than Van's!! ;) You can only round them ribs so
much until they get really thin.
So venture forth new builders!!!!! We will be here to answer them same questions
we used to ask each other while our airplanes were still considered metal signs
and boats in the garage to our neighbors! I love seeing everyone blazing
the same trails we did when the kits first came out. What a great past time this
is!!
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
We have the AeroTrim kit installed for Aileron and Rudder. They are
awesome! The rudder pedals are used strictly for ground control, nothing
used in the air at all. Also, with that much fuel in the wings, you don't
want to be fighting the ailerons all the time, and it is nice to take a
little bit of torque off the auto pilot. We wouldn't have it any other way.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
Thanks Jesse! Did a search for Aerotrim kit, no info. Where did you get
yours? Do aileron and Rudder work together or separate? I am planning on
having my elevator and aileron trim on the hat switch on the stick.
Jim Wade
-------Original Message-------
From: Jesse Saint
Date: 10/03/05 23:56:39
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim
We have the AeroTrim kit installed for Aileron and Rudder. They are
awesome! The rudder pedals are used strictly for ground control, nothing
used in the air at all. Also, with that much fuel in the wings, you don=92t
want to be fighting the ailerons all the time, and it is nice to take a
little bit of torque off the auto pilot. We wouldn=92t have it any other way.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing Material |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Larry,
This is very similar to what I've been looking at using. http://www.quietcoat.com/index.html They are both viscoelastic materials similar to what our front seats are made of. Only difference is quiet coat is spray on and b-quiet is a mat with a butyl rubber adhesive and aluminum layer. The butyl adhesive will add a layer of high density to further assist in stopping the wave propagation from the skins but most of the work is done by the "smart" foam. The main job of the adhesive is to get the waves into the foam where they can be converted to heat. With the quiet coat being a spray on, it should have superior adhesion. The aluminum layer is primarily a heat shield and won't really add much other than weight. Not trying to change your mind, just trying to do a quick comparison. Either way both of these products should give equal or better performance to the heavier asphalt mats.
Let us know how it works.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing Material
I am getting ready to close up the front floor boards. I know many are using the super Soundproofing sheets from Aircraft Spruce <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ap/soundproof.html>. However, this is the material that I am going to be using . It is B-Quiet Ultimate. A flexible composite material with an aluminum top layer. It is 1.6mm thick and weighs 0.35 lb/sqft.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I've got the Van's kit. It is a spring bias system driven by a servo,
installation is in the wing at the inboard access panel. I considered
the Aerotrim after seeing it at OSH but this seemed to be a cleaner
installation. I'm not flying yet so can't provide feedback on
functionality.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it
mentioned a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to
the cabin structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when
the sun is bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would
be a very nice addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RV-10 propeller tests |
Hi All,
Is anyone willing to test both the RV-10 MT Propeller and the RV-10 Hartzell
propeller on their flying RV-10?
Please contact me directly at _jim(at)lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com)
Van's Aircraft hasn't had time available with their RV-10 to test the RV-10
MT Propeller.
The Hartzell propeller Van's Aircraft sells to RV-10 builders, model number
C2YR-1BFP/F8068D, is unique to the RV-10.
In talking with Hartzell, apparently the C2YR-1BFP/F8068D propeller can only
be purchased from Van's Aircraft.
And Van's Aircraft can only sell one Hartzell propeller to each builder.
Do you see were this is going?
Van;s Aircraft and the RV-10 builders are the only ones with the RV-10
Hartzell propeller.
It looks like it is up to someone with a flying RV-10 with the RV-10
Hartzell propeller to step forward, if both propellers are to be tested on a common
airframe.
It might even be interesting to see how a standard Hartzell propeller
compares to the RV-10 Hartzell propeller.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
_jim(at)lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim(at)lessdrag.com)
(805) 795-5377
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust each
fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I can't remember
who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Although it's almost a necessity in parts of the fuselage, you can
easily get by with just the snap bushings in the wings. Only thing I
did was use the next larger size (625-7 called out, I used 625-8). For
those new to the list, also consider that you may have wingtip nav
antenna coax (one or both wings), marker beacon antenna coax, and/or the
AOA pressure tap lines.
My specific configuration included all of the above (navs in both
wingtips), Whelen strobe/nav lights, Van's landing lights, heated pitot,
standard stall warning and the TruTrak roll servo.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
I've been trying to decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and
would like suggestions from the group. I would rather not use Van's
conduit because I am not fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like
the stuff I used before on other applications, after 20 years or so it
will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the
O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble?
would 3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
1/16" wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a
taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
to
and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
Make the Van's landing lights alternate on/off during approach and you have
a list that is almost exactly mine. I'm going with an AOA and probably no
extra tanks, but everything else looks great. Am therefore very interested
in the responses to come.
John Jessen
40328 HS
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions from the
group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not fond of
corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before on other
applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrte.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble? would
3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a 1/16"
wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a taxi
light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
I think Tim used innerduct (interduct?) which is what I am planning on
using. It's the orange stuff that they run fiber optic cable in from
the telco providers. I managed to swipe
H
H
H
H appropriate about 50'
of the stuff from a phone closet at a friends work that some unamed
telco left there a year or two ago. It's corrugated, but I imagine if
they use it for fiber it can't be all bad. I'm curious to know what you
used that fell apart in the 20 years? I have plenty of time to make a
switch in my plan since I haven't even gotten to the tailcone yet ;)
Secondly, for these conduit runs, does one just make a new hole in the
rib / bulkhead for it to pass through? any worries about structural
integrity? I think the stuff I have is around 1 - 1-1/4 inches on the OD.
Thanks,
James
#40400 elevators
James Hein wrote:
> on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions
> from the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not
> fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before
> on other applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
They are "skybolt" fasteners and are really quite nice to use. They aren't
cheap, but then again you get what you pay for! After using both the hinge
pins and fasteners, I'll never go back to hinge pins again.
http://www.skybolt.com
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda
Emond
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:24 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust
each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I
can't remember who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
http://www.milspecproducts.com/index.htm
I'm using them in the Glastar 140 hrs without any problems
br Werner
Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
> I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You
> adjust each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor
> plate. I can't remember who makes them, or what they are called. I
> need some help????
>
> Dave Emond
>
> #40159
> Busy on Fuse Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
I have similar stuff, without the van's tip lights and the fuel pump.
I ran my TruTrak servo wires in the same place the pitot line is
run in the opposite wing. May as well run it there, since it's
not being used for anything else, and is closer to the servo.
I ran my strobe wires in snap bushings towards the rear of the wing.
No big reason...just because. Considering this, there is a fair
amount of space left over in my standard Van's conduit. So if
you did something similar, you wouldn't need to worry
about going anywhere near 1". I think 1" might be pushing it
anyway.
Tim
James Hein wrote:
> on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions from
> the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not fond of
> corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before on other
> applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
>
> So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
> size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the
> O.D.
>
> But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble?
> would 3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
>
> (I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
> 1/16" wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
>
> I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
> example)
> 1. Whelean Strobes
> 2. Duckworks HID lights
> 3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a
> taxi light)
> 4. Nav lights
> 5. Heated Pitot
> 6. The Kit's stall warning system
> 7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
> 8. TruTrak roll servo
>
> If you've already done something similar, what is the wire *bundle* size?
>
> Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
>
> -Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
I did use innerduct, but that was in the fuselage to go to the
tail. My runs to the wingtips seem to be great on space, given
the way I laid it out (you'll see in my other reply). I
think that people with an EFIS should for sure consider
some alternative for the front to tail run. There I think you'll
run out of space really quick. That 1" innerduct I think will
be perfect for that location....one per side.
Glad to hear you were able to "Procure" (same as "swipe" ;) )
some for yourself. I think it should last a good long time.
It lasts for years and years in commercial buildings.
As for that hole size....given the location for front to tail,
it didn't seem to structurally be very bad. I don't think
I'd like to run it to the wingtips though. I think I've even
heard something somewhere about a max size hole in the wing
ribs, and I don't think it was that big. But, I don't know
where I heard that.
Tim
James Ochs wrote:
>
> I think Tim used innerduct (interduct?) which is what I am planning on
> using. It's the orange stuff that they run fiber optic cable in from
> the telco providers. I managed to swipe
H
H
H
H appropriate about 50'
> of the stuff from a phone closet at a friends work that some unamed
> telco left there a year or two ago. It's corrugated, but I imagine if
> they use it for fiber it can't be all bad. I'm curious to know what you
> used that fell apart in the 20 years? I have plenty of time to make a
> switch in my plan since I haven't even gotten to the tailcone yet ;)
>
> Secondly, for these conduit runs, does one just make a new hole in the
> rib / bulkhead for it to pass through? any worries about structural
> integrity? I think the stuff I have is around 1 - 1-1/4 inches on the OD.
>
> Thanks,
> James
> #40400 elevators
>
> James Hein wrote:
>
>> on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions
>> from the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not
>> fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before
>> on other applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Talley <RV10(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
Try the following link (this one works):
http://www.milspecproducts.com/
On Oct 4, 2005, at 3:29 PM, Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> http://www.milspecproducts.com/index.htm
>
> I'm using them in the Glastar 140 hrs without any problems
>
> br Werner
>
> Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
>
>
>> I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all.
>> You adjust each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and
>> anchor plate. I can't remember who makes them, or what they are
>> called. I need some help????
>> Dave Emond
>> #40159
>> Busy on Fuse Kit
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
Thanks Michael, will check on the Van's trim option. I still want to look at
the aerotrim also, but haven't found it yet.
Jim Wade
Mississippi
-------Original Message-------
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Date: 10/03/05 21:03:04
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim
Yep, going with the Van's aileron trim option. Don't know if it's on their
web page or not, came out the same time as OSH.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
Just wanted to double check with someone else that has done the tanks.
When I tighten up the drain and the finger strainer, they do not tighten
up all the way to the stop nuts. Is that what everyone else is seeing?
Thanks,
Sean #40303 (tanks finally done!!!!!! after 49 hours of yuk)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
Skybolt Fastners
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave & Brenda Emond
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust each
fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I can't remember
who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
I believe they are pipe threads.
-Chris L
40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer
>
> Just wanted to double check with someone else that has done the tanks.
>
> When I tighten up the drain and the finger strainer, they do not tighten
> up all the way to the stop nuts. Is that what everyone else is seeing?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean #40303 (tanks finally done!!!!!! after 49 hours of yuk)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryRosen(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
Bob #40105
Are you able to fit all the wires through the 625-8 snap bushings?
What size wire did you use for the services?
Someone asked what size holes can be drilled in the ribs. Vans does have a positon on this. You can see it here <http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm> and select Routing of wires and tubes in the Wing. The main wire routing hole can be able to be drilled out to 3/4" and use a SB750-10 bushing wiht a 5/8" ID.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 20:04:41 +0000
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16939_1128479856_1
Although it's almost a necessity in parts of the fuselage, you can
easily get by with just the snap bushings in the wings. Only thing I
did was use the next larger size (625-7 called out, I used 625-8). For
those new to the list, also consider that you may have wingtip nav
antenna coax (one or both wings), marker beacon antenna coax, and/or the
AOA pressure tap lines.
My specific configuration included all of the above (navs in both
wingtips), Whelen strobe/nav lights, Van's landing lights, heated pitot,
standard stall warning and the TruTrak roll servo.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
I've been trying to decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and
would like suggestions from the group. I would rather not use Van's
conduit because I am not fond of corrugated conduit and If it it like
the stuff I used before on other applications, after 20 years or so it
will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what
size? This stuff all has 1/8" walls, so add 1/4" to the I.D. to get the
O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble?
would 3/4" (1.05" O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
1/16" wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for
example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be used as a
taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
to
and
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16939_1128479856_1
http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40">
Although its almost a necessity in
parts of the fuselage, you can easily get by with just the snap bushings in the
wings. Only thing I did was use the next larger size (625-7 called out, I used
625-8). For those new to the list, also consider that you may have wingtip nav
antenna coax (one or both wings), marker beacon antenna coax, and/or the AOA
pressure tap lines.
My specific configuration included all of
the above (navs in both wingtips), Whelen strobe/nav lights, Vans landing
lights, heated pitot, standard stall warning and the TruTrak roll servo.
Bob #40105
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of James Hein
2:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Conduit,
Wires, Decisions!
I've been trying to
decide on what type and size of conduit to use, and would like suggestions from
the group. I would rather not use Van's conduit because I am not fond of
corrugated conduit and If it it like the stuff I used before on other
applications, after 20 years or so it will disintegrate.
So, I'm thinking of PVC electrical conduit. So far so good, except what size?
This stuff all has 1/8 walls, so add 1/4 to the I.D. to get the
O.D.
But, how far can I enlarge the rib holes before I get into trouble? would
3/4 (1.05 O.D) be too large?
(I did look at Teflon conduit/tubing, from McMaster-Carr, which has a
1/16 wall, but it's $5 per foot! Ouch!)
I plan on having the following installed in the wings (left wing for example)
1. Whelean Strobes
2. Duckworks HID lights
3. Van's Landing Light (yep, both; Van's tip light to be
used as a taxi light)
4. Nav lights
5. Heated Pitot
6. The Kit's stall warning system
7. Facet Fuel pump for tip tank transfer (3amp)
8. TruTrak roll servo
If you've already done something similar, what is the wire bundle size?
Decisions, Decisions... What have I gotten myself into?
-Jim 40384 (Still deburring the wing ribs..)
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16939_1128479856_1--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
All are through the bushings except for the TT roll servo which goes through the
same holes that the pitot lines uses on the other wing. I can get details of
the wire sizes tomorrow PM but they were sized to keep the voltage drop to less
than .5 volts with a min size of #22. Antennas are all RG-400. AOA lines
run through bushings with the wires.
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
Bob #40105
Are you able to fit all the wires through the 625-8 snap bushings?
What size wire did you use for the services?
Someone asked what size holes can be drilled in the ribs. Vans does have a positon on this. You can see it here <http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm> and select Routing of wires and tubes in the Wing. The main wire routing hole can be able to be drilled out to 3/4" and use a SB750-10 bushing wiht a 5/8" ID.
Larry Rosen
40356
N205EN (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Drain And Finger Strainer |
Sean,
They are NPT or National Pipe Thread. This type of thread is tapered and the more
you tighten it the further and tighter it gets until you give up or it strips
out. Put some fuel lube on the male part of the threads, a little goes a long
way. Snug up the inner fitting first then while holding the inner fitting tighten
the outer. During your leak checks you can snug these fittings until any
leaks stop if you find any. I suggest for now you apply a little lube and just
hand tighten until final assembly. Then tighten all the fittings. My plan is
to put some fuel in the tanks and flush them a bit prior to connecting them
to the fuselage feeds. Then pull the drains and get rid of the excess fuel and
reinstall them. At this stage just put,em back into the holes for storage and
contamination prevention.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
seems the link had changed, here directly to the item you're looking at:
http://www.milspecproducts.com/245213info.htm
and the pricing:
http://www.milspecproducts.com/c-lockprice.htm
they seem to be a tad cheaper then skybolt (but look the same)
Werner
Werner Schneider wrote:
>
> http://www.milspecproducts.com/index.htm
>
> I'm using them in the Glastar 140 hrs without any problems
>
> br Werner
>
> Dave & Brenda Emond wrote:
>
>> I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You
>> adjust each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor
>> plate. I can't remember who makes them, or what they are called. I
>> need some help????
>>
>> Dave Emond
>>
>> #40159
>> Busy on Fuse Kit
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
Jim,
See my wing electrical configuration here:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/index7.html
with wiring overview here:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
William Curtis
40237 - Wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
For those of you who have tested your tanks, what did you use to seal
the fuel pickup hole where the finger strainer is. The wing kit doesn't
come with a bulkhead union, which I assume goes in there and comes with
a later kit?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions! |
William, great website. Somehow I have missed finding it before.
Jim Wade
40383-Wings & Fuselage
-------Original Message-------
From: William Curtis
Date: 10/05/05 09:06:19
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Conduit, Wires, Decisions!
Jim,
See my wing electrical configuration here:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/index7.html
with wiring overview here:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
William Curtis
40237 - Wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
If the finger strainer is installed, pick up a 3/8 NPT plug from Home depot or
wherever.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
For those of you who have tested your tanks, what did you use to seal the fuel
pickup hole where the finger strainer is. The wing kit doesn't come with a bulkhead
union, which I assume goes in there and comes with a later kit?
Thanks,
Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel Tank Testing |
The Van's fuel tank test kit is useless for the RV-10. As noted here: http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings59a.html I used AN-913-6 plug at the finger strainer. The Vans kit comes with a -6 cap for the other RVs, but is useless on the -10. The plugs are also useful when you put the wings/tanks in storage. Keep out any little critters.
>For those of you who have tested your tanks, what did you use
>to seal the fuel pickup hole where the finger strainer is.
>The wing kit doesn't come with a bulkhead union, which I
>assume goes in there and comes with a later kit?
William Curtis
40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lee" <miklleen(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber |
OK I am sure this has been asked before, but maybe someoneone could send me
copies of any list digests with information on this, or just reply directly.
I am ver seriously considering an RV-10 project. What I would like is
information from real builders on the following:
Assuming the following:
1) RV-10 Quick build kit
2) Builder has good mechanical aptitude and electonics experience.
3) Never built an airplane before, or any project of this size.
4) Planning to keep customizations to a minimum.
5) Need to keep costs down, planning on finding a used mid time engine, CS
prop, analog engine gauges, basic JPI engine monitor, will shell out $ for a
Garmin 530 / 430 combo and indicators.
6) Want an IFR platform (hence the 530 / 430 combo)
7) GPS / Nav coupled auto pilot with altitude hold.
8) Will paint myself, will have uphoulstry done.
9) Basic sound proofing.
10) Wingtip stobes, plus stobe beacon, otherwise standard lighting with taxi
/ landing light.
Can I get an estimate of build time and costs? What types of unexpected
costs that are not in the above are there?
Anyone else out there with similar goals / expectaions?
What are other builders doing to keep costs down?
I know I can save some $$ by buying a standard kit instead of a quick build,
but I have a need to have the aircraft done in less than a year, working
evenings and weekends.
THANKS!!!!! for any and all help!
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Cowling Quick Fastners |
Thanks Stein
----- Original Message -----
From: SteinAir, Inc.
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 10:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
They are "skybolt" fasteners and are really quite nice to use. They aren't cheap,
but then again you get what you pay for! After using both the hinge pins
and fasteners, I'll never go back to hinge pins again.
http://www.skybolt.com
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda Emond
Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 2:24 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cowling Quick Fastners
I recall reading about a quick fastner, one size that fits all. You adjust
each fastner to suit the depth of the cowl material and anchor plate. I can't
remember who makes them, or what they are called. I need some help????
Dave Emond
#40159
Busy on Fuse Kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber |
Mike,
You don't want much huh? :)
I am slow build about 20 hours a week and have just finished the wings at around
700 hours. I expect it will take me 2.75 to three years to complete. The kit
is very easy to build you just need to develop some riveting skills which has
to be learned through practice but it's easy now, after about 100 practice rivets
I had the hang of it. I am planning a very similar avionics package as have
other in this group. My budget is right around 110K including paint but I am
doing all the work myself. I suggest you visit all the builders sites. Start
with Tim's at 'myrv10.com". You can link to all the others from there. Tim and
Mike Howe list time spent, I think this is Tim's first airplane but Mike has
experience and teaches sheetmetal classes so you can compare the two build times.
If your farming out the avionics Stein and several others on the list can
give you some preliminary figures for that and autopilots. I find the little
things add up like antennas, wiring spare nuts and bolts etc. Read up on all the
others projects, I think Randy posted a build time around 2200 hours but don't
hold me to that. Do an archive search as well....all of your questions I think
have been addressed at least once.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
tests=ALL_TRUSTED: -2.4,AWL: 0.346,SARE_MSGID_EMPTY: 1.106,
SARE_RECV_ADDR: 0.027
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber |
Mike,
Good questions. A trip through the land of RV web sites will help you,
greatly. Also, search the archives. There are many references there as to
the time to build and costs.
I cannot do anything but give you a projected cost range that I came up with
for my purposes (IFR panel, new engine, etc), and that was between $120,000
to $140,000. I hope the estimated range is high; I doubt it.
But to me, the one thing that disturbed me about your post was the "need" to
get this done within a year or less. Randy, the first totally completed
RV-10 to fly, was finished in 20 months, with help, both in terms of
physical labor, but also in terms of subsections being farmed out, such as
the panel. (Randy can fill you in on exactly what were his shortcuts.)
Twenty months is fast, my friend. I expect to take between 24 and 48
months, depending if I, too, go QB, which is still being debated. For a
plane of this complexity, anything south of 24 months would be proud to crow
about, but less than 12? Please don't set that as your goal. This stuff is
doable, but it is not strictly a Lego or erector set.
By the way, I work on it each evening for 2 hours (when I'm not traveling on
business) and each and every weekend for at least 6 hours (when I'm not
being pulled away by others who don't understand the passion and addiction,
but whose needs must be recognized - none of us are total recluses, yet),
and there's no way that I could get it done in less time than Randy's 20
months. I have all the tools, and the requisite knowledge and skills, and
there's no way. In short, enjoy the process, build well and have some
fun...or, buy one already built. I'm sure there will be a few up for sale
soon.
My best,
John Jessen
40328 HS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lee
Subject: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
OK I am sure this has been asked before, but maybe someoneone could send me
copies of any list digests with information on this, or just reply directly.
I am ver seriously considering an RV-10 project. What I would like is
information from real builders on the following:
Assuming the following:
1) RV-10 Quick build kit
2) Builder has good mechanical aptitude and electonics experience.
3) Never built an airplane before, or any project of this size.
4) Planning to keep customizations to a minimum.
5) Need to keep costs down, planning on finding a used mid time engine, CS
prop, analog engine gauges, basic JPI engine monitor, will shell out $ for a
Garmin 530 / 430 combo and indicators.
6) Want an IFR platform (hence the 530 / 430 combo)
7) GPS / Nav coupled auto pilot with altitude hold.
8) Will paint myself, will have uphoulstry done.
9) Basic sound proofing.
10) Wingtip stobes, plus stobe beacon, otherwise standard lighting with taxi
/ landing light.
Can I get an estimate of build time and costs? What types of unexpected
costs that are not in the above are there?
Anyone else out there with similar goals / expectaions?
What are other builders doing to keep costs down?
I know I can save some $$ by buying a standard kit instead of a quick build,
but I have a need to have the aircraft done in less than a year, working
evenings and weekends.
THANKS!!!!! for any and all help!
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Interior Paint Options |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
I was wondering what options we have for painting the inside of the cabin/fuselage.
I have been using Valspar Super Anzapon (BMS 10-11 similar to Akzo) for corrosion
protection of the emp and wings and I'm very happy with the results. This
stuff is not supposed to be top coated though, (without additional prep work).
I would like to go with internal trim from classic aero designs or similar, but
I'm not clear on what is needed for corrosion protection of the fuse (ie primer)
versus those exposed cabin wear surfaces that need to be 'prettied up'. Has
the general approach been to prime as per the emp/wings and then top coat,
or are there other ways?
Any suggestions or pointers to other info would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Ron
#187 fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Engines |
Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and noticed that
Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know if this has
the new tapped technology?
Has anyone compared the TMX540 (Mattituck) to the Aerosport?
Thanks
Niko
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Lycoming Engines |
Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to $42,650, an over
$3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of the 250HP O-540 for $37,500.
Other than fuel injection, anyone know what else is different between
these engines? It would seem you could get the O and add fuel injection for a
lot less than $5,150 or FADEC for a little more. I think Ill be looking at the
IO-540 clone from Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider
the 210HP Continental IO-360.
>Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and noticed
>that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know if
>this has the new tapped technology?
William Curtis
40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Lycoming Engines |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
You can get a Silverhawk EX package from Mattituck to convert to an IO for about
3200. I wasn't aware that there were any FADEC options for the Lyc 540 - am
I missing something?
Bob
--------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines
Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to $42,650, an over
$3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of the 250HP O-540 for $37,500.
Other than fuel injection, anyone know what else is different between these
engines? It would seem you could get the O and add fuel injection for a lot
less than $5,150 or FADEC for a little more. I think I'll be looking at the
IO-540 clone from Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider
the 210HP Continental IO-360.
>Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and noticed
>that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know if
>this has the new tapped technology?
William Curtis
40237 - wings
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Lycoming Engines |
This is making the Egg/Subie look more and more interesting to me. He'
going to be @ Copperstate this weekend, and I look forward to hearing
1st hand about his plans for the RV-10 installation.
(I just saw on ANN an AD for Lyc 360 & 540 cranks, maybe this is how Lyc
expects to pay for it)
Deems Davis # 406
Wing Main Spar
http://deemsrv10.com/
William Curtis wrote:
> Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to
> $42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of
> the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know
> what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could
> get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC
> for a little more. I think Ill be looking at the IO-540 clone from
> Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the
> 210HP Continental IO-360.
>
> >Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and
> noticed
> >that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know if
> >this has the new tapped technology?
>
> William Curtis
> 40237 - wings
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Lycoming Engines |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Deems,
A comment Rob Hickman had to me about this subject really struck home. How
hard will it be to get it through a condition inspection if you are not the builder.
I would expect it to impact the perceived and real value without a lyc
but if you ever want to sell it how hard will it be for the buyer to get it inspected?
Might be a bigger impact than expected leading to an unsellable aircraft.
I would like to hear Jan's comment on this and some real world experiences
before I jump on this boat.
Another thing that has been rumored is that insurance companies are going to
treat the -10 differently than other RV's in respect to an "unapproved" engine.
This would also be a serious deal killer if insurance sky rockets or is completely
unavailable. Like I said this is a rumor that maybe someone can confirm
the next time they talk to an agent.
These are two things you might want to bring up. I for one would love to get
positive answers to these two items as it would provide, what I feel, would be
a viable alternative to the $$$ Lyc's. Unfortunately they are both deal killers
also, as I suspect they would be for most other people.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines
This is making the Egg/Subie look more and more interesting to me. He'
going to be @ Copperstate this weekend, and I look forward to hearing 1st hand
about his plans for the RV-10 installation.
(I just saw on ANN an AD for Lyc 360 & 540 cranks, maybe this is how Lyc expects
to pay for it)
Deems Davis # 406
Wing Main Spar
http://deemsrv10.com/
William Curtis wrote:
> Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to
> $42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of
> the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know
> what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could
> get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC
> for a little more. I think I'll be looking at the IO-540 clone from
> Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the
> 210HP Continental IO-360.
>
> >Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and
> noticed
> >that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know
> >if this has the new tapped technology?
>
> William Curtis
> 40237 - wings
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
The phone number for the AeroTrim guy is 305-864-3336. I think we paid $175
each for the set, plus the required servo relay deck from Ray Allen so we
could use the trim switches in our Infinity Aerospace stick grip.
Sorry for the delay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/>
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim
Thanks Michael, will check on the Van's trim option. I still want to look at
the aerotrim also, but haven't found it yet.
Jim Wade
Mississippi
-------Original Message-------
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) <mailto:rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: 10/03/05 21:03:04
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim
Yep, going with the Van's aileron trim option. Don't know if it's on their
web page or not, came out the same time as OSH.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Flaps
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: RV10-List: aileron trim
Anyone putting aileron trim in?? Does the plane need one? Heard it mentioned
a few times. Has anyone tried to attach a Rosen sunvisor to the cabin
structure?? I have Rosen's in my T210 and they are great when the sun is
bright, also you can move them to the side if needed. Would be a very nice
addition with all that glass.
Jim Wade
40383 ( no type this time)
Slow build everything
Fuselage ready to close floors and install panel.
Wings ready for top skins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engines |
I went with Aerosport Power's IO-540. Did a lot of checking. Think they
offer a very good engine, and for the few that have gotten them, I believe they
will agree.
Grumpy #40404
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd1.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Informational: message has unparseable relay
* lines
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* 0.4 AWL AWL: From: address is in the auto white-list
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Lycoming Engines |
Deems, get all the info you can get out of Jan at Copperstate and please
report back. I've been interested in his engines since I first found out
about them a couple years back. I was ready to buy one of his 2.5's when I
was planning on a RV-7, but now that I'm building a -10 I really hope he can
make the H-6 work. The only thing that still bugs me a little is the high
RPM's on take off. I know the engines do that all the time in the cars, but
it just sounds too high. Probably won't be a problem.
Anyway, please report back if you have time.
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137
Elevators in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines
>
> This is making the Egg/Subie look more and more interesting to me. He'
> going to be @ Copperstate this weekend, and I look forward to hearing
> 1st hand about his plans for the RV-10 installation.
> (I just saw on ANN an AD for Lyc 360 & 540 cranks, maybe this is how Lyc
> expects to pay for it)
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Wing Main Spar
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> William Curtis wrote:
>
> > Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to
> > $42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of
> > the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know
> > what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could
> > get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC
> > for a little more. I think Ill be looking at the IO-540 clone from
> > Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the
> > 210HP Continental IO-360.
> >
> > >Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and
> > noticed
> > >that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know
if
> > >this has the new tapped technology?
> >
> > William Curtis
> > 40237 - wings
> > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
The trim servo kit from Van's is $275. Why is AEROTRIM servo trim kit only $175?
DEAN
The trim servo kit from Van's is $275. Why is AEROTRIM servo trim kit only $175?
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber |
I'll throw a nickel on the grass (as the old fighter pilot song goes).
Going the QB route, with some great (and RV experienced helpers). At least a
year to complete, some of which is lead time for Van to deliver QB kits.
With new engine (rather than some clunker rebuild), new prop and REAL IFR
package (with backup), probably $150k is a good ball park.
You can do it for less, but with increased risk.
I figure.....$120k and a 2nd class machine that is VFR or $150k and a first
class machine with reall IFR capability. And you'll be head to head with the
Cirrus and Lancair bubbas, who have $500k+ in their machines.
It's your call.....
Probably get strafed by others for my opinion.
Grumpy 40404
In a message dated 10/5/2005 9:29:49 PM Central Standard Time,
jjessen(at)rcn.com writes:
Mike,
Good questions. A trip through the land of RV web sites will help you,
greatly. Also, search the archives. There are many references there as to
the time to build and costs.
I cannot do anything but give you a projected cost range that I came up with
for my purposes (IFR panel, new engine, etc), and that was between $120,000
to $140,000. I hope the estimated range is high; I doubt it.
But to me, the one thing that disturbed me about your post was the "need" to
get this done within a year or less. Randy, the first totally completed
RV-10 to fly, was finished in 20 months, with help, both in terms of
physical labor, but also in terms of subsections being farmed out, such as
the panel. (Randy can fill you in on exactly what were his shortcuts.)
Twenty months is fast, my friend. I expect to take between 24 and 48
months, depending if I, too, go QB, which is still being debated. For a
plane of this complexity, anything south of 24 months would be proud to crow
about, but less than 12? Please don't set that as your goal. This stuff is
doable, but it is not strictly a Lego or erector set.
By the way, I work on it each evening for 2 hours (when I'm not traveling on
business) and each and every weekend for at least 6 hours (when I'm not
being pulled away by others who don't understand the passion and addiction,
but whose needs must be recognized - none of us are total recluses, yet),
and there's no way that I could get it done in less time than Randy's 20
months. I have all the tools, and the requisite knowledge and skills, and
there's no way. In short, enjoy the process, build well and have some
fun...or, buy one already built. I'm sure there will be a few up for sale
soon.
My best,
John Jessen
40328 HS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lee
Subject: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
OK I am sure this has been asked before, but maybe someoneone could send me
copies of any list digests with information on this, or just reply directly.
I am ver seriously considering an RV-10 project. What I would like is
information from real builders on the following:
Assuming the following:
1) RV-10 Quick build kit
2) Builder has good mechanical aptitude and electonics experience.
3) Never built an airplane before, or any project of this size.
4) Planning to keep customizations to a minimum.
5) Need to keep costs down, planning on finding a used mid time engine, CS
prop, analog engine gauges, basic JPI engine monitor, will shell out $ for a
Garmin 530 / 430 combo and indicators.
6) Want an IFR platform (hence the 530 / 430 combo)
7) GPS / Nav coupled auto pilot with altitude hold.
8) Will paint myself, will have uphoulstry done.
9) Basic sound proofing.
10) Wingtip stobes, plus stobe beacon, otherwise standard lighting with taxi
/ landing light.
Can I get an estimate of build time and costs? What types of unexpected
costs that are not in the above are there?
Anyone else out there with similar goals / expectaions?
What are other builders doing to keep costs down?
I know I can save some $$ by buying a standard kit instead of a quick build,
but I have a need to have the aircraft done in less than a year, working
evenings and weekends.
THANKS!!!!! for any and all help!
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber |
My nickel after talking to Misty pilot, is IFR, rotary 20B, all glass, and
under 100
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
September 19, 2005 - October 07, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ar