RV10-Archive.digest.vol-as

October 07, 2005 - October 16, 2005



      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
I'll throw a nickel on the grass (as the old fighter pilot song goes). Going the QB route, with some great (and RV experienced helpers). At least a year to complete, some of which is lead time for Van to deliver QB kits. With new engine (rather than some clunker rebuild), new prop and REAL IFR package (with backup), probably $150k is a good ball park. You can do it for less, but with increased risk. I figure.....$120k and a 2nd class machine that is VFR or $150k and a first class machine with reall IFR capability. And you'll be head to head with the Cirrus and Lancair bubbas, who have $500k+ in their machines. It's your call..... Probably get strafed by others for my opinion. Grumpy 40404 In a message dated 10/5/2005 9:29:49 PM Central Standard Time, jjessen(at)rcn.com writes: Mike, Good questions. A trip through the land of RV web sites will help you, greatly. Also, search the archives. There are many references there as to the time to build and costs. I cannot do anything but give you a projected cost range that I came up with for my purposes (IFR panel, new engine, etc), and that was between $120,000 to $140,000. I hope the estimated range is high; I doubt it. But to me, the one thing that disturbed me about your post was the "need" to get this done within a year or less. Randy, the first totally completed RV-10 to fly, was finished in 20 months, with help, both in terms of physical labor, but also in terms of subsections being farmed out, such as the panel. (Randy can fill you in on exactly what were his shortcuts.) Twenty months is fast, my friend. I expect to take between 24 and 48 months, depending if I, too, go QB, which is still being debated. For a plane of this complexity, anything south of 24 months would be proud to crow about, but less than 12? Please don't set that as your goal. This stuff is doable, but it is not strictly a Lego or erector set. By the way, I work on it each evening for 2 hours (when I'm not traveling on business) and each and every weekend for at least 6 hours (when I'm not being pulled away by others who don't understand the passion and addiction, but whose needs must be recognized - none of us are total recluses, yet), and there's no way that I could get it done in less time than Randy's 20 months. I have all the tools, and the requisite knowledge and skills, and there's no way. In short, enjoy the process, build well and have some fun...or, buy one already built. I'm sure there will be a few up for sale soon. My best, John Jessen 40328 HS -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lee
Subject: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
OK I am sure this has been asked before, but maybe someoneone could send me copies of any list digests with information on this, or just reply directly. I am ver seriously considering an RV-10 project. What I would like is information from real builders on the following: Assuming the following: 1) RV-10 Quick build kit 2) Builder has good mechanical aptitude and electonics experience. 3) Never built an airplane before, or any project of this size. 4) Planning to keep customizations to a minimum. 5) Need to keep costs down, planning on finding a used mid time engine, CS prop, analog engine gauges, basic JPI engine monitor, will shell out $ for a Garmin 530 / 430 combo and indicators. 6) Want an IFR platform (hence the 530 / 430 combo) 7) GPS / Nav coupled auto pilot with altitude hold. 8) Will paint myself, will have uphoulstry done. 9) Basic sound proofing. 10) Wingtip stobes, plus stobe beacon, otherwise standard lighting with taxi / landing light. Can I get an estimate of build time and costs? What types of unexpected costs that are not in the above are there? Anyone else out there with similar goals / expectaions? What are other builders doing to keep costs down? I know I can save some $$ by buying a standard kit instead of a quick build, but I have a need to have the aircraft done in less than a year, working evenings and weekends. THANKS!!!!! for any and all help! Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Engine
Date: Oct 07, 2005
As im not that experienced in regards to all of the lycoming engine models etc and realize Vans recomends 540. I thought i'd read that there are both 560 and 580 Lycoming models. Could these be fitted and are they the same engine block with larger bore or stroke and hence fit under cowl. I gues inrease in horse power would be a no no. Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: aileron trim
Date: Oct 07, 2005
Can't answer that. I don't know anything about Van's kit. All I know is that we paid $175 each for our trims, installed them in 2 hours each after the plane had already been flying, and they work great. Beyond that, I can't say much. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim The trim servo kit from Van's is $275. Why is AEROTRIM servo trim kit only $175? DEAN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: aileron trim
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
There's not much to it, just a MAC servo, a tab, and linkage, but I'm surprised as well. I believe it was much more than the Van's trim at EAA when I looked. Must have a cheaper version for experimental. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Flaps ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: aileron trim The trim servo kit from Van's is $275. Why is AEROTRIM servo trim kit only $175? DEAN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
Have you seen the new prices on the Aerosport site? $37,500. Do you think the number of RV-10 kits being built is driving up the price? I am starting to look and the price increase are causing me to look at other alternatives....maybe I will end up with a Subaru. But, I really want to stay with the IO-540. Rene' Felker 40322 N423CF Wings - 90% Fuslage - 10% _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Subject: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to $42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC for a little more. I think I'll be looking at the IO-540 clone from Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the 210HP Continental IO-360. >Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and noticed >that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know if >this has the new tapped technology? William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Engines
Paul, It will take some practice but here are a few tips. If you look at the head of each rivet there is a tiny dimple for you bit to start in, make sure your right on it when you get going. I use the same size drill as the rivet. Start slow and strive to keep the bit perpendicular to the head as possible. Once you get into the head about the depth of the drill bit plus a tad more, stop and use a punch either 3/32 or 1/8 inch inserted in to the hole to snap off the head. Now you may find that the hole will just round out instead of snapping off, it happens so next time go a little deeper. Now it's decision time. If you can back up the area behind the shop head, use the punch to drive out the remaining piece of the rivet, many times if you have snapped the head off just right it will come out easily. Or you can drill out the last piece, key here is to get that bit to follow your original hole VERY CLOSE if not exact. A very slightly undersized bit can help but not really needed as much as a good round of drilling out bad rivets to practice. I don't recommend using the bit to snap off the head, I tried twice, first time put a slight bend in the bit, and second time broke the tip. No need to waste bits and the sharp end of the punch works well to bite into the base of your hole to snap off the rivet head. I find that when I drill them out now, once the head is off I have almost removed the balance of the rivet or it comes out just before I get ready to snap off the head. Of course I have only drilled out bad rivets that other builders have set, not on my own airplane because I have not set a bad rivet yet :D. If Bob Kaufmann tries to say otherwise and point to that silly picture he has hanging in shop that he "alleges" is me drilling out a bad rivet on my RV-10 pay no attention, it's photoshopped. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Lycoming does offer an experimental 580 engine, at 323 hp. It would not be suitable for the RV-10 however, because it is an angle head engine and is too wide for the standard cowling. We have built some for the higher powered aerobatic performers. Peter Besenyai flys one, and so does Patty Wagstaff. Rhonda Barrett-Bewley Barrett Precision Engines, Inc. 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd. Tulsa, OK 74115 (918) 835-1089 phone ((18) 835-1754 fax www.barrettprecisionengines.com <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/> ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter Subject: RV10-List: Engine As im not that experienced in regards to all of the lycoming engine models etc and realize Vans recomends 540. I thought i'd read that there are both 560 and 580 Lycoming models. Could these be fitted and are they the same engine block with larger bore or stroke and hence fit under cowl. I gues inrease in horse power would be a no no. Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Avery Tool Sale
Avery Tools is having a sale on tools. 5% off and free shipping. The free shipping would help if you need only a few tools. I have no relation to Avery, but in my experience they provide high quality tools. Larry Rosen N205EN (reserved) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Lycoming Engines
"Start slow" I turn the chuck by hand to get the drill started, and then after the bit starts to bite then I slowly pull the trigger. Larry Rosen N205EN (reserved) Rick wrote: > >Paul, > >It will take some practice but here are a few tips. If you look at the head of each rivet there is a tiny dimple for you bit to start in, make sure your right on it when you get going. I use the same size drill as the rivet. Start slow and strive to keep the bit perpendicular to the head as possible. Once you get into the head about the depth of the drill bit plus a tad more, stop and use a punch either 3/32 or 1/8 inch inserted in to the hole to snap off the head. Now you may find that the hole will just round out instead of snapping off, it happens so next time go a little deeper. Now it's decision time. If you can back up the area behind the shop head, use the punch to drive out the remaining piece of the rivet, many times if you have snapped the head off just right it will come out easily. Or you can drill out the last piece, key here is to get that bit to follow your original hole VERY CLOSE if not exact. > >A very slightly undersized bit can help but not really needed as much as a good round of drilling out bad rivets to practice. I don't recommend using the bit to snap off the head, I tried twice, first time put a slight bend in the bit, and second time broke the tip. No need to waste bits and the sharp end of the punch works well to bite into the base of your hole to snap off the rivet head. > >I find that when I drill them out now, once the head is off I have almost removed the balance of the rivet or it comes out just before I get ready to snap off the head. Of course I have only drilled out bad rivets that other builders have set, not on my own airplane because I have not set a bad rivet yet :D. If Bob Kaufmann tries to say otherwise and point to that silly picture he has hanging in shop that he "alleges" is me drilling out a bad rivet on my RV-10 pay no attention, it's photoshopped. > >Rick S. >40185 >Fuselage > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: TMXIO-540
Date: Oct 07, 2005
Is there a reason that people are talking about the Aerosport engine at $37,500 over the Teledyne engine at $34,150? Am I missing something? What are the differences that make it worth spending $3,200 more for the Aerosport engine? By the way, my dad is up in MN right now, flew up there yesterday. He made it 917 statute miles on 50 gallons with headwinds. Our experience has been that Van's fuel burn numbers are conservative. Of course, they only list numbers up to 8,000 feet, at which altitude it burns a lot. We burn about 10.5gph at 10,500 with true airspeeds between 185 and 195mph. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
What is the $37,500 for, one of their overhauls or a clone? Ive always questioned the wisdom of paying 80-90% of the cost of a new engine from Vans, for an overhauled engine by ANY shop in the field. Before they started offering Lycoming clones, they were selling overhauled IO-540 engines for about $33,500 when Vans was selling new IO-540s for $38,990. 85% of the cost of new for a field overhauled engine. The peace of mind of a new crankshaft alone is worth the extra 15% ($5,500), at least to me. How many field overhauls include a new crankshaft. Tim, does you engine have a new crankshaft? All the porting and balancing in the world won't help when a questionable crank fails. If this is the cost for a clone IO-540 with ALL new parts on the other hand, that would be another story and a fair deal. >Have you seen the new prices on the Aerosport site? $37,500. Do you >think the number of RV-10 kits being built is driving up the price? I am >starting to look and the price increase are causing me to look at other >alternatives....maybe I will end up with a Subaru. But, I really want to >stay with the IO-540. William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
Date: Oct 07, 2005
Bob, Are you a member of the Fly Rotary Group? "Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary(at)lancaironline.net]" Three of us on the list are putting Rotary's in the 10. Bobby Hughes 40116 ________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob.kaufmann Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber My nickel after talking to Misty pilot, is IFR, rotary 20B, all glass, and under 100 Bob K ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GenGrumpy(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber I'll throw a nickel on the grass (as the old fighter pilot song goes). Going the QB route, with some great (and RV experienced helpers). At least a year to complete, some of which is lead time for Van to deliver QB kits. With new engine (rather than some clunker rebuild), new prop and REAL IFR package (with backup), probably $150k is a good ball park. You can do it for less, but with increased risk. I figure.....$120k and a 2nd class machine that is VFR or $150k and a first class machine with reall IFR capability. And you'll be head to head with the Cirrus and Lancair bubbas, who have $500k+ in their machines. It's your call..... Probably get strafed by others for my opinion. Grumpy 40404 In a message dated 10/5/2005 9:29:49 PM Central Standard Time, jjessen(at)rcn.com writes: =09 Mike, =09 Good questions. A trip through the land of RV web sites will help you, greatly. Also, search the archives. There are many references there as to the time to build and costs. =09 I cannot do anything but give you a projected cost range that I came up with between $120,000 to $140,000. I hope the estimated range is high; I doubt it. =09 But to me, the one thing that disturbed me about your post was the "need" to get this done within a year or less. Randy, the first totally completed RV-10 to fly, was finished in 20 months, with help, both in terms of physical labor, but also in terms of subsections being farmed out, such as the panel. (Randy can fill you in on exactly what were his shortcuts.) Twenty months is fast, my friend. I expect to take between 24 and 48 months, depending if I, too, go QB, which is still being debated. For a plane of this complexity, anything south of 24 months would be proud to crow about, but less than 12? Please don't set that as your goal. This stuff is doable, but it is not strictly a Lego or erector set. =09 traveling on business) and each and every weekend for at least 6 hours (when I'm not being pulled away by others who don't understand the passion and addiction, but whose needs must be recognized - none of us are total recluses, yet), and there's no way that I could get it done in less time than Randy's 20 months. I have all the tools, and the requisite knowledge and skills, and there's no way. In short, enjoy the process, build well and have some fun...or, buy one already built. I'm sure there will be a few up for sale soon. =09 My best, =09 John Jessen 40328 HS =09 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lee Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:49 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber =09 =09 OK I am sure this has been asked before, but maybe someoneone could send me copies of any list digests with information on this, or just reply directly. =09 I am ver seriously considering an RV-10 project. What I would like is information from real builders on the following: =09 Assuming the following: 1) RV-10 Quick build kit 2) Builder has good mechanical aptitude and electonics experience. 3) Never built an airplane before, or any project of this size. 4) Planning to keep customizations to a minimum. 5) Need to keep costs down, planning on finding a used mid time engine, CS prop, analog engine gauges, basic JPI engine monitor, will shell out $ for a Garmin 530 / 430 combo and indicators. 6) Want an IFR platform (hence the 530 / 430 combo) 7) GPS / Nav coupled auto pilot with altitude hold. 8) Will paint myself, will have uphoulstry done. 9) Basic sound proofing. 10) Wingtip stobes, plus stobe beacon, otherwise standard lighting with taxi / landing light. =09 Can I get an estimate of build time and costs? What types of unexpected costs that are not in the above are there? =09 Anyone else out there with similar goals / expectaions? =09 What are other builders doing to keep costs down? =09 I know I can save some $$ by buying a standard kit instead of a quick build, but I have a need to have the aircraft done in less than a year, working evenings and weekends. =09 THANKS!!!!! for any and all help! =09 Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: Perry Casson <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: Re: TMXIO-540
I think getting the 1yr warranty for the TMXIO-540 upgraded to match the 3 year offered by Aerosport is at least $2K ($2K is what they charge for the 360 engine) so that gets it closer. Timely topic - going to have to make the big leap to get into the queue for one of these darn things soon. Perry Casson Regina Canada Jesse Saint wrote: > Is there a reason that people are talking about the Aerosport engine > at $37,500 over the Teledyne engine at $34,150? Am I missing > something? What are the differences that make it worth spending $3,200 > more for the Aerosport engine? > > By the way, my dad is up in MN right now, flew up there yesterday. He > made it 917 statute miles on 50 gallons with headwinds. Our experience > has been that Vans fuel burn numbers are conservative. Of course, > they only list numbers up to 8,000 feet, at which altitude it burns a > lot. We burn about 10.5gph at 10,500 with true airspeeds between 185 > and 195mph. > > Jesse Saint > > I-TEC, Inc. > > jesse(at)itecusa.org > > www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> > > W: 352-465-4545 > > C: 352-427-0285 > > F: 815-377-3694 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Ironically, with Lycoming's track record, some may prefer a good "old" crankshaft to a brand-new one from Lycoming . . . he he TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Subject: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines What is the $37,500 for, one of their overhauls or a clone? I've always questioned the wisdom of paying 80-90% of the cost of a new engine from Van's, for an overhauled engine by ANY shop in the field. Before they started offering Lycoming clones, they were selling overhauled IO-540 engines for about $33,500 when Van's was selling new IO-540s for $38,990. 85% of the cost of new for a field overhauled engine. The peace of mind of a new crankshaft alone is worth the extra 15% ($5,500), at least to me. How many field overhauls include a new crankshaft. Tim, does you engine have a new crankshaft? All the porting and balancing in the world won't help when a questionable crank fails. If this is the cost for a clone IO-540 with ALL new parts on the other hand, that would be another story and a fair deal. >Have you seen the new prices on the Aerosport site? $37,500. Do you >think the number of RV-10 kits being built is driving up the price? I am >starting to look and the price increase are causing me to look at other >alternatives....maybe I will end up with a Subaru. But, I really want to >stay with the IO-540. William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject:
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
0.20 FROM_NO_LOWER From address has no lower-case characters List, Jesse brought to my attention the wrong URL listing on my earlier post. Our website address is www.barrettprecisionengines.com <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/> . Sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused. Allen Barrett BPE, Inc. ________________________________ I've stopped 37,350 spam messages. You can too! One month FREE spam protection at www.cloudmark.com <http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnet?v1&rcgjw23> <http://www.cloudmark.com/spamnet?v1&rcgjw23> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Aileron trim
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
The Aerotrim unit requires you to cut a small square out of the control surface. It then sit's in that hole as a complete unit acting as the access plate. You then attach a small tab to the trailing edge of the control surface and the linkage then controls that. You would route the control wires out the back of the control surface into the aircraft. It is a very straight forward system when you want to add trim to an existing system that has no other option. For me the clean install of the Van's system inside the wing, moving the whole surface, is a better option. I may still consider Aerotrim for the rudder should the need arise. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Flaps ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim Jesse, Did your aileron trim require cutting into the aileron itself or does is move the entire roll control? Rick s. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Aileron trim
Date: Oct 07, 2005
You have to cut a square hole in the control surface and it operates a hinge that you rivet onto the trailing edge of the aileron and/or rudder. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim Jesse, Did your aileron trim require cutting into the aileron itself or does is move the entire roll control? Rick s. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
Both of those prices are for brand new clone engines. I think they are even certified Lycoming parts, just not a certified data plate. It was my understanding from Lycoming after speaking to them at Oshkosh that their certified engines are now shipping with the roller lifters, which might account for the difference in price. That is just what they told me, but I don't understand all of the details about that. I think $34,500 is a decent price for a new engine considering what certified ones cost. Aerosport has been charging about $1,000 less than that for an overhauled one. I wonder what the insurance ramifications would be for an experimental new engine. Any thoughts? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Subject: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines What is the $37,500 for, one of their overhauls or a clone? I've always questioned the wisdom of paying 80-90% of the cost of a new engine from Van's, for an overhauled engine by ANY shop in the field. Before they started offering Lycoming clones, they were selling overhauled IO-540 engines for about $33,500 when Van's was selling new IO-540s for $38,990. 85% of the cost of new for a field overhauled engine. The peace of mind of a new crankshaft alone is worth the extra 15% ($5,500), at least to me. How many field overhauls include a new crankshaft. Tim, does you engine have a new crankshaft? All the porting and balancing in the world won't help when a questionable crank fails. If this is the cost for a clone IO-540 with ALL new parts on the other hand, that would be another story and a fair deal. >Have you seen the new prices on the Aerosport site? $37,500. Do you >think the number of RV-10 kits being built is driving up the price? I am >starting to look and the price increase are causing me to look at other >alternatives....maybe I will end up with a Subaru. But, I really want to >stay with the IO-540. William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 07, 2005
Subject: Re: RE: Lycoming Engines
There is the extra 15 hours of test period for non-certified engine/prop. The fuel could cost $700 and up for that extra time. Doug Preston ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Wing order + components
Ok, I'm getting ready to order the wings. I'd like to get whatever I might need to put in the wing while I'm at it so I don't forget something or have to wait to continue building because I'm waiting for a part. So, I guess this is where a lot of the decisions come ;) The question is, did I miss anything that will be difficult or impossible after the wing is closed: Conduit / bushings for the wiring AOA / pitot tubing coax cable for the wingtip nav / comm antennas aileron trim kit A couple of other questions... having not made an engine decision yet, and suspecting there will be some interesting things happening in the next 2 - 3 years before I'm ready for an engine installation, what would I need to do differently to the fuel plumbing / tanks if I were to use something that required JET-A as opposed to 100LL or mogas? Is there a way to build the tanks / plumbing so that you could use any of the above? Or does it not matter, and the real question is quantity? (I'll leave the traditional vs. non-traditional engine choice discussion for much later when I have acquired a nice nomex suit;) If I have two systems that have AOA (like a dynon or a chelton and the AOA indicator that AFS sells) do I need separate plumbing for both of them or can they share the same ports in the wings the way a pitot-static system can? I like the display of the AOA pro but a lot of the glass units have that feature built in so it would be nice to have them both working. Where are people putting their OAT sensor(s)? What kind of wiring does it require? I'm planning on going with the duckworks light kit, is it easier to install before or after the wing is closed? Thanks James #40400 elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
PS. A plug on the Barrett Cold Induction Option and Forsling Tuned Exhaust are important areas for consideration by the mass of RV-10 builders. Many of whom would look to a Subie or Innodyne before fully understanding the approved Firewall Forward choices (Insurable) that fit with VANS cowl and mount. Since you are listening and posting. Thanks for the data. Any chance that the cowl mod you are working on would allow an IO-580X to be hung? John - KUAO ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lycoming Engines John, everyone that knows me knows I'm not one to be very quiet! :-) I am in agreement with your statement of choice, feature and quality. Let's clear the air a bit. First, the recent price increase of a crate engine from Vans makes the experimental kits the most cost effective choice. The three shops that are regularly being talked about, BPE, Aerosport & Mattittuck all build very fine engines. We all are on the Lycoming kit engine program for several reasons. We build quality engines, have a good reputation, are dedicated to the GA industry and support our products. If you choose any one of these shops to build your engine, you are going to get a quality product. While some shops offer a base engine purchase price with several performance enhancing upgrades such as balancing, custom painting, porting and polishing, etc etc, and add these costs as you choose, here at BPE we build our experimental engines incorporating these features. We feel this is the right way to build an engine. What I'm trying to say is that while you can purchase a basic engine and add the cost of upgrades, by the time you have an engine that is comparable in options and performance, you'll realize that the price differences are minimal at best. Since the kit engines have become available, the shops in the program have adjusted their prices to take into account their costs. Labor is probably the biggest cost factor in the price differences. We have done some very close evaluation of our costs, and we have adjusted our pricing so that we are very competitive with Aerosport without sacrificing the build quality that we are well known for. The standard IO-540-X engine from us sells for $38,300. A few of the price differences, include our balancing, port/flow match on cylinders, Champion plugs (instead of Unison), all fittings and hoses included, silicon rocker box covers and a 1.5 hour dynamometer test, including a full power run. If you haven't received a quote from us on an engine since September, we'd be happy to review our pricing with you. Here's a price saving tip for anyone - if you are going to need your engine prior to June of 06, go ahead and order your engine before the end of the year. Historically, price increases have come on January 1. Allen Barrett BPE, Inc. www.barrettpreceisionengines.com <http://www.barrettpreceisionengines.com/> (918) 835-1089 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lycoming Engines Brian, if you knew the differences between the Mattituck TMX540 and BPA's product, you would know the price difference and answer your own question. It's a mater of choice, feature and quality. Now don't forget a Forsling Exhaust System while you are at the Apples and Oranges comparison. I am sure Alan would agree quietly on the side. You will get what you pay for. John - $00.02 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron trim
How does one cut a small square hole ??? Glad you asked. AFTER I drilled out a round hole, used Dremel disk, bits & then a file to create a somewhat square hole an ole hand showed me his "nibbling tool". Ya start with a 7/16" drilled hole. Insert the (Aircraft Spruce p/n 12-10400 page 548) nibbler and cut away. Have used it many times where I didn't want to take the chance of having a grinding disk, wheel or bit "jump & run". Great for those "odd" shaped holes or corners, trimming inside for a perfect fit. For $16.75 it works wonders and it's a great pilot gag gift. Without the instructions given it's riot to watch someone try to figger out what it is, how it works and what it's for. Wonderful for that "know it all" at the airport. Works on up to 18 Ga steel. KABONG ----- Original Message ----- From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen) To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 8:53 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron trim The Aerotrim unit requires you to cut a small square out of the control surface. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
Re- Wing Parts to have on hand Autopilot servo / wiring if you are going to mount in the wings! -----Original Message----- From: James Ochs [mailto:jochs(at)froody.org] Subject: RV10-List: Wing order + components Ok, I'm getting ready to order the wings. I'd like to get whatever I might need to put in the wing while I'm at it so I don't forget something or have to wait to continue building because I'm waiting for a part. So, I guess this is where a lot of the decisions come ;) The question is, did I miss anything that will be difficult or impossible after the wing is closed: Conduit / bushings for the wiring AOA / pitot tubing coax cable for the wingtip nav / comm antennas aileron trim kit A couple of other questions... having not made an engine decision yet, and suspecting there will be some interesting things happening in the next 2 - 3 years before I'm ready for an engine installation, what would I need to do differently to the fuel plumbing / tanks if I were to use something that required JET-A as opposed to 100LL or mogas? Is there a way to build the tanks / plumbing so that you could use any of the above? Or does it not matter, and the real question is quantity? (I'll leave the traditional vs. non-traditional engine choice discussion for much later when I have acquired a nice nomex suit;) If I have two systems that have AOA (like a dynon or a chelton and the AOA indicator that AFS sells) do I need separate plumbing for both of them or can they share the same ports in the wings the way a pitot-static system can? I like the display of the AOA pro but a lot of the glass units have that feature built in so it would be nice to have them both working. Where are people putting their OAT sensor(s)? What kind of wiring does it require? I'm planning on going with the duckworks light kit, is it easier to install before or after the wing is closed? Thanks James #40400 elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
BPE's Cold Air Induction WILL work for the IO-580, IO-540 parallel and IO-540 Angle head engines respectfully, However, because of the width of both the angle head I0-540 and IO-580, the cowling is being designed to work with the parallel head IO-540. I'm sure some folks are interested in the angle head engines for the RV-10, but I haven't heard of it being done at this time. Allen Barrett BPE, Inc. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lycoming Engines PS. A plug on the Barrett Cold Induction Option and Forsling Tuned Exhaust are important areas for consideration by the mass of RV-10 builders. Many of whom would look to a Subie or Innodyne before fully understanding the approved Firewall Forward choices (Insurable) that fit with VANS cowl and mount. Since you are listening and posting. Thanks for the data. Any chance that the cowl mod you are working on would allow an IO-580X to be hung? John - KUAO ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lycoming Engines John, everyone that knows me knows I'm not one to be very quiet! :-) I am in agreement with your statement of choice, feature and quality. Let's clear the air a bit. First, the recent price increase of a crate engine from Vans makes the experimental kits the most cost effective choice. The three shops that are regularly being talked about, BPE, Aerosport & Mattittuck all build very fine engines. We all are on the Lycoming kit engine program for several reasons. We build quality engines, have a good reputation, are dedicated to the GA industry and support our products. If you choose any one of these shops to build your engine, you are going to get a quality product. While some shops offer a base engine purchase price with several performance enhancing upgrades such as balancing, custom painting, porting and polishing, etc etc, and add these costs as you choose, here at BPE we build our experimental engines incorporating these features. We feel this is the right way to build an engine. What I'm trying to say is that while you can purchase a basic engine and add the cost of upgrades, by the time you have an engine that is comparable in options and performance, you'll realize that the price differences are minimal at best. Since the kit engines have become available, the shops in the program have adjusted their prices to take into account their costs. Labor is probably the biggest cost factor in the price differences. We have done some very close evaluation of our costs, and we have adjusted our pricing so that we are very competitive with Aerosport without sacrificing the build quality that we are well known for. The standard IO-540-X engine from us sells for $38,300. A few of the price differences, include our balancing, port/flow match on cylinders, Champion plugs (instead of Unison), all fittings and hoses included, silicon rocker box covers and a 1.5 hour dynamometer test, including a full power run. If you haven't received a quote from us on an engine since September, we'd be happy to review our pricing with you. Here's a price saving tip for anyone - if you are going to need your engine prior to June of 06, go ahead and order your engine before the end of the year. Historically, price increases have come on January 1. Allen Barrett BPE, Inc. www.barrettpreceisionengines.com <http://www.barrettpreceisionengines.com/> (918) 835-1089 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Subject: RE: RV10-List: Lycoming Engines Brian, if you knew the differences between the Mattituck TMX540 and BPA's product, you would know the price difference and answer your own question. It's a mater of choice, feature and quality. Now don't forget a Forsling Exhaust System while you are at the Apples and Oranges comparison. I am sure Alan would agree quietly on the side. You will get what you pay for. John - $00.02 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
I think the $34,150 price from Lycoming is an overhauled cost with a core trade in. What is the value of a IO-540 core these days? $10-12K? >Is there a reason that people are talking about the Aerosport >engine at $37,500 over the Teledyne engine at $34,150? William Curtis http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
Allen, This is great information and I will now also consider the BPA IO-540- X. You should add this information and your price list to your web page and loose the music -IMHO. I think you would get some more converts as a result. Just a thought. >Since the kit engines have become available, the shops in the program >have adjusted their prices to take into account their costs. Labor is >probably the biggest cost factor in the price differences. We have done >some very close evaluation of our costs, and we have adjusted our >pricing so that we are very competitive with Aerosport without >sacrificing the build quality that we are well known for. The standard >IO-540-X engine from us sells for $38,300. A few of the price >differences, include our balancing, port/flow match on cylinders, >Champion plugs (instead of Unison), all fittings and hoses included, >silicon rocker box covers and a 1.5 hour dynamometer test, including a >full power run ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Only absolutely critical item is the pitot mount. Everything else can be added after the wings are closed. It's certainly easier to put the AP roll servo in berfore closing. Pitot tubing and snap bushings come w/the kit. If you go the conduit route instead you'll need to do that before closing. Bob -------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Wing order + components Ok, I'm getting ready to order the wings. I'd like to get whatever I might need to put in the wing while I'm at it so I don't forget something or have to wait to continue building because I'm waiting for a part. So, I guess this is where a lot of the decisions come ;) The question is, did I miss anything that will be difficult or impossible after the wing is closed: Conduit / bushings for the wiring AOA / pitot tubing coax cable for the wingtip nav / comm antennas aileron trim kit A couple of other questions... having not made an engine decision yet, and suspecting there will be some interesting things happening in the next 2 - 3 years before I'm ready for an engine installation, what would I need to do differently to the fuel plumbing / tanks if I were to use something that required JET-A as opposed to 100LL or mogas? Is there a way to build the tanks / plumbing so that you could use any of the above? Or does it not matter, and the real question is quantity? (I'll leave the traditional vs. non-traditional engine choice discussion for much later when I have acquired a nice nomex suit;) If I have two systems that have AOA (like a dynon or a chelton and the AOA indicator that AFS sells) do I need separate plumbing for both of them or can they share the same ports in the wings the way a pitot-static system can? I like the display of the AOA pro but a lot of the glass units have that feature built in so it would be nice to have them both working. Where are people putting their OAT sensor(s)? What kind of wiring does it require? I'm planning on going with the duckworks light kit, is it easier to install before or after the wing is closed? Thanks James #40400 elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
I will quote the Mattituck website: As with all TMX series engines, the TMX-540 will be assembled using 100% new FAA approved and certified parts. The all new part TMX-540 includes the latest roller tappet technology available from Textron Lycoming. The TMXO-540 engine producing 250/260 horsepower is attractively priced at $33,250.00 outright and complete with new Unison/Slick magnetos, new Unison/Slick ignition harness, new Unison/Slick spark plugs, new lightweight Sky-Tec starter, new Lycoming fuel pump and a rebuilt Precision Airmotive carburetor. The TMXIO-540 engine producing 250/260 horsepower is attractively priced at $34,150.00 outright, complete with new Unison/Slick magnetos, new Unison/Slick ignition harness, new Unison/Slick spark plugs, new lightweight Sky-Tec starter, new Lycoming fuel pump and a complete new Precision Airmotive SilverHawk EX or Airflow Performance EX fuel injection system. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Subject: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines I think the $34,150 price from Lycoming is an overhauled cost with a core trade in. What is the value of a IO-540 core these days? $10-12K? >Is there a reason that people are talking about the Aerosport >engine at $37,500 over the Teledyne engine at $34,150? William Curtis http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Not if you are burning 10 or less GPH of mogas @$3 or less a gallon. Probably equals out or even comes in under the cost of Avgas for a cert engine combo. Michael Sausen -10 # 352 Flaps ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines There is the extra 15 hours of test period for non-certified engine/prop. The fuel could cost $700 and up for that extra time. Doug Preston ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
I did the duckworks HID while I was working on that part of the wing. It will be easier to get the nutplates and mounting bracket in place before you rivet on the leading edge. I even put nutplates in place in the opposite wing in case I decide to add a second kit down the road. Don't forget position lights also. If you go with the AoA from Rob, you can also get the wing kit and put that in at the same time as the duckworks HID. It sits just aft of the HID. Others have already mentioned the Pitot and AP. Just don't forget to order the AP servo for the opposite wing if you get Van's Aileron trim. For fuel tanks you could do a couple things. First, JetA or any other heavy fuel needs positive ventilation so you will need to work that out. I would talk to the guys at Deltahawk for specifics. Second, if you go with an engine conversion like Eggs Subaru you will need a return line for the fuel as they are constant supply. There is info on Egg's website but basically it's just an additional bulkhead in the -5 size in the vicinity of the vent connected to a tube that dumps into the second bay from the supply line so you don't get bubbles. If you are considering it you can put in the bulkhead and just cap it if you don't use it. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Flaps -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: Wing order + components Ok, I'm getting ready to order the wings. I'd like to get whatever I might need to put in the wing while I'm at it so I don't forget something or have to wait to continue building because I'm waiting for a part. So, I guess this is where a lot of the decisions come ;) The question is, did I miss anything that will be difficult or impossible after the wing is closed: Conduit / bushings for the wiring AOA / pitot tubing coax cable for the wingtip nav / comm antennas aileron trim kit A couple of other questions... having not made an engine decision yet, and suspecting there will be some interesting things happening in the next 2 - 3 years before I'm ready for an engine installation, what would I need to do differently to the fuel plumbing / tanks if I were to use something that required JET-A as opposed to 100LL or mogas? Is there a way to build the tanks / plumbing so that you could use any of the above? Or does it not matter, and the real question is quantity? (I'll leave the traditional vs. non-traditional engine choice discussion for much later when I have acquired a nice nomex suit;) If I have two systems that have AOA (like a dynon or a chelton and the AOA indicator that AFS sells) do I need separate plumbing for both of them or can they share the same ports in the wings the way a pitot-static system can? I like the display of the AOA pro but a lot of the glass units have that feature built in so it would be nice to have them both working. Where are people putting their OAT sensor(s)? What kind of wiring does it require? I'm planning on going with the duckworks light kit, is it easier to install before or after the wing is closed? Thanks James #40400 elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
I did not see fuel level senders mentioned, which are another item for the list. I believe Randy has his OAT in the fuselage fresh air inlet and William Curtis is putting it somewhere on the wing (per his electrical schematic) Larry Rosen RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: > I did the duckworks HID while I was working on that part of the > wing. It will be easier to get the nutplates and mounting bracket in > place before you rivet on the leading edge. I even put nutplates in > place in the opposite wing in case I decide to add a second kit down > the road. > > Don't forget position lights also. If you go with the AoA from Rob, > you can also get the wing kit and put that in at the same time as the > duckworks HID. It sits just aft of the HID. Others have already > mentioned the Pitot and AP. Just don't forget to order the AP > servo for the opposite wing if you get Van's Aileron trim. > > For fuel tanks you could do a couple things. First, JetA or any > other heavy fuel needs positive ventilation so you will need to work > that out. I would talk to the guys at Deltahawk for specifics. > Second, if you go with an engine conversion like Eggs Subaru you will > need a return line for the fuel as they are constant supply. There is > info on Egg's website but basically it's just an additional bulkhead > in the -5 size in the vicinity of the vent connected to a tube that > dumps into the second bay from the supply line so you don't get > bubbles. If you are considering it you can put in the bulkhead and > just cap it if you don't use it. > > Michael Sausen > -10 #352 Flaps > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs > Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 12:16 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Wing order + components > > > Ok, I'm getting ready to order the wings. I'd like to get whatever I > might need to put in the wing while I'm at it so I don't forget > something or have to wait to continue building because I'm waiting for > a part. > > So, I guess this is where a lot of the decisions come ;) > > The question is, did I miss anything that will be difficult or > impossible after the wing is closed: > > Conduit / bushings for the wiring > AOA / pitot tubing > coax cable for the wingtip nav / comm antennas aileron trim kit > > A couple of other questions... having not made an engine decision yet, > and suspecting there will be some interesting things happening in the > next 2 - 3 years before I'm ready for an engine installation, what > would I need to do differently to the fuel plumbing / tanks if I were > to use something that required JET-A as opposed to 100LL or mogas? Is > there a way to build the tanks / plumbing so that you could use any of > the above? Or does it not matter, and the real question is quantity? > (I'll leave the traditional vs. non-traditional engine choice > discussion for much later when I have acquired a nice nomex suit;) > > If I have two systems that have AOA (like a dynon or a chelton and the > AOA indicator that AFS sells) do I need separate plumbing for both of > them or can they share the same ports in the wings the way a > pitot-static system can? I like the display of the AOA pro but a lot > of the glass units have that feature built in so it would be nice to > have them both working. > > Where are people putting their OAT sensor(s)? What kind of wiring > does it require? > > I'm planning on going with the duckworks light kit, is it easier to > install before or after the wing is closed? > > Thanks > James > #40400 > elevators > > > ==================================== > RV10-List Email Forum - > more: > bsp; > ==================================== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines
Date: Oct 07, 2005
I guess I did not fully understand the question. I guess we would need to know what is included in the Matituck engine at 34,150 vs. the Aerosport or BPA engine at $37,500 and $38,300 respectively. All the major components would be the same as they would be all new Lycoming parts. Here is my summary of the engine options so far: Lyc(Airpower)- IO-540-D4A5 - $31,417 Factory rebuilt with core trade in Lyc (Vans) - IO-540-D4A5 - $42,650 Certified Lycoming Mattituck - TMXIO-540-X - $34,150 all new Clone Aerosport - IO-540-X - $37,500 all new Clone BPA - IO-540-X - $38,300 all new Clone Lyc(Airpower)- O-540-E4A5 - $27,000 Factory rebuilt with core trade in Lyc (Vans) - O-540-A4D5 - $37,500 Certified Lycoming Mattituck - TMXO-540-X - $33,250 all new Clone Aerosport - O-540-X - $36,000 all new Clone BPA - O-540-X - $??,000 all new Clone >Is there a reason that people are talking about the Aerosport >engine at $37,500 over the Teledyne engine at $34,150? William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Quick build
Date: Oct 08, 2005
Just wondering, when assembling my 7A empennage I polished, anodised and primed every component before assembly. upon receiving my quick build kit and with regard to corrosion protection, I thought that the quality of the priming job of the kit left a little to be desired, granted the quality of riveting was A1. Do any of the other members of the group have any reservations at all about going the Quick Build route ?. I would like to hear your thoughts. If it were not for this minor gripe I would go the A/B on my 10 or any other RV in a heart beat - the saving in time alone makes the Q/K unbeatable value. Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
Date: Oct 07, 2005
You have great goals. Here is my recommendations to anyone building a RV10. 1 Go quick build unless you have a plane that you fly now or you are retired and love to build. It will take months off of most peoples build times. 2 Plan on 150,000.00 for a good IFR platform. If you save a buck here and there, great. you won't be upset when it comes in a little more. 3 Have the panel built by someone, anyone. It will cut 2 monthes off of the project. I would also recommend that the person wiring the panel is also someone who wires entire planes as well. If you do the airframe wiring yourself and they are doing the panel, the wire gauges can all be worked out very easily. Don't know what wire gets run for the pitot heat? Just ask them, they do it all day long. 4 Get help. Deburing isn't hard and a local kid that want's to get involved in the project, or as I lucked into a great retired guy that also want to build a plane. The plane isn't hard to build but it does require the hours to be spent. 5 You must build at home or live in the hanger. Do not take the kids to socker practice, do not go out to dinner more the 1 night a week. Do not cut the grass until you absolutly have to. It is a major waste of time that could be better spent working on the plane. Do not fix up the house, that can come after the plane is built. 6 Oh one more thing. Leave the Web sites to someone else. There as some great ones out there you can't compete with them, and it is time that would be better spent reading the plans for tomorrows tasks. 7 If you want to build fast - don't prime. I primed and I would do it again but I am not convinced it the best thing since sliced bread. 2200 hours slow build. 1800 hours QB. I think one year is doable but you better stay away from that lawn or it will be 1 1/2 years. Randy ________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber Mike, Good questions. A trip through the land of RV web sites will help you, greatly. Also, search the archives. There are many references there as to the time to build and costs. I cannot do anything but give you a projected cost range that I came up with for my purposes (IFR panel, new engine, etc), and that was between $120,000 to $140,000. I hope the estimated range is high; I doubt it. But to me, the one thing that disturbed me about your post was the "need" to get this done within a year or less. Randy, the first totally completed RV-10 to fly, was finished in 20 months, with help, both in terms of physical labor, but also in terms of subsections being farmed out, such as the panel. (Randy can fill you in on exactly what were his shortcuts.) Twenty months is fast, my friend. I expect to take between 24 and 48 months, depending if I, too, go QB, which is still being debated. For a plane of this complexity, anything south of 24 months would be proud to crow about, but less than 12? Please don't set that as your goal. This stuff is doable, but it is not strictly a Lego or erector set. By the way, I work on it each evening for 2 hours (when I'm not traveling on business) and each and every weekend for at least 6 hours (when I'm not being pulled away by others who don't understand the passion and addiction, but whose needs must be recognized - none of us are total recluses, yet), and there's no way that I could get it done in less time than Randy's 20 months. I have all the tools, and the requisite knowledge and skills, and there's no way. In short, enjoy the process, build well and have some fun...or, buy one already built. I'm sure there will be a few up for sale soon. My best, John Jessen 40328 HS -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lee Subject: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber OK I am sure this has been asked before, but maybe someoneone could send me copies of any list digests with information on this, or just reply directly. I am ver seriously considering an RV-10 project. What I would like is information from real builders on the following: Assuming the following: 1) RV-10 Quick build kit 2) Builder has good mechanical aptitude and electonics experience. 3) Never built an airplane before, or any project of this size. 4) Planning to keep customizations to a minimum. 5) Need to keep costs down, planning on finding a used mid time engine, CS prop, analog engine gauges, basic JPI engine monitor, will shell out $ for a Garmin 530 / 430 combo and indicators. 6) Want an IFR platform (hence the 530 / 430 combo) 7) GPS / Nav coupled auto pilot with altitude hold. 8) Will paint myself, will have uphoulstry done. 9) Basic sound proofing. 10) Wingtip stobes, plus stobe beacon, otherwise standard lighting with taxi / landing light. Can I get an estimate of build time and costs? What types of unexpected costs that are not in the above are there? Anyone else out there with similar goals / expectaions? What are other builders doing to keep costs down? I know I can save some $$ by buying a standard kit instead of a quick build, but I have a need to have the aircraft done in less than a year, working evenings and weekends. THANKS!!!!! for any and all help! Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: Group buy on covers.
Date: Oct 07, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
Yes. It is a 7" piece of tapered wood painted white. It is adjustable with a saw and more paint. It is being modified about every 4th flight. I think it will end up 4" tall by 1" front to back and 1/4" thick in the back of the rudder and tapers down to nothing on the front. After that I will glass and paint in a permanent piece. Most of my longer trips are on autopilot so the use of trim other than elevator has not been needed. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Conti, Rick Subject: RE: RV10-List: FW: Group buy on covers. Randy, I have surfed your site and watched your videos. Excellent job. Do you have a rudder trim assembly on your 10? Thank You Rick Conti office: 703-414-6141 cell: 571-215-6134 ________________________________ From: Randy DeBauw [mailto:Randy(at)abros.com] Subject: RV10-List: FW: Group buy on covers. Here is a response from Abby on the light weight travel covers. Randy ________________________________ From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS [mailto:flightline(at)tds.net] Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers. ----- Original Message ----- From: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS <mailto:flightline(at)tds.net> Subject: Re: Group buy on covers. Sorry, I didn't even really answer your questions. I don't have it patterned right now, but given a little time I could have it patterned. It is made of Ripstop Nylon fabric. It would come with its own storage bag. They would probably be somewhere around $225 each. Thanks, Abby ----- Original Message ----- From: Erdmann's <mailto:erdmannb(at)execpc.com> To: FLIGHTLINE INTERIORS Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 7:47 AM Subject: Fw: Group buy on covers. ----- Original Message ----- From: Randy's Abros mail <mailto:randy(at)abros.com> To: erdmannb(at)execpc.com Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2005 1:20 PM Subject: Group buy on covers. The RV10 list is all a flutter with people wanting to be involved in a group buy (my guess is 15 to 20) on canopy covers for the 10. They have been taking to Bruce at Bruce's Covers. I think most don't want the heavy cover. I think if you give your regular price and what it is made of and what includes I can relay it to the group and give them an option. Thanks and I hope things are will. Randy ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Engine
Date: Oct 08, 2005
While on the engine subject, does the 540 come in any variant that does not require that ugly snorkel under front of engine cowl. I think the 200 hp version of the 360 for RV 7 & 8 does away with snorkel so thought it may be possible. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Quick build
It is the same with the quick build for the 10. The quality of the fabrication is top rate. But, the priming leaves much to be desired. It seem that most structure was put together and then it was primed. I am going to re-prime with AKZO the areas that get sealed up. This will leave the areas where you want the protection the most, where the ribs meet the skin un-primed. This is the trade off that in my opinion is well worth if for the amount of time the quick build will save. Larry Rosen 40356 Paul Walter wrote: > Just wondering, > when assembling my 7A empennage I polished, anodised and primed every > component before assembly. > upon receiving my quick build kit and with regard to corrosion > protection, I thought that the quality of the priming job of the kit > left a little to be desired, granted the quality of riveting was A1. > > Do any of the other members of the group have any reservations at all > about going the Quick Build route ?. I would like to hear your thoughts. > If it were not for this minor gripe I would go the A/B on my 10 or > any other RV in a heart beat - the saving in time alone makes the Q/K > unbeatable value. > > Paul Walter > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Quick build -> Akzo
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
I'm guessing Paul meant alodined below. But I digress. My question is this, with Azko is it truly a primer/sealer? I haven't done a whole lot of digging but the only references I have ever seen are to it being a primer. The PPG DP40 I use is also a epoxy primer and only becomes a sealer when its mixed with a reducer. Presumably to make it flow out better. Not trying to start a controversy or anything, just trying to raise the observation. Either way I'm sure it's more than adequate for our use. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Flaps -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Quick build It is the same with the quick build for the 10. The quality of the fabrication is top rate. But, the priming leaves much to be desired. It seem that most structure was put together and then it was primed. I am going to re-prime with AKZO the areas that get sealed up. This will leave the areas where you want the protection the most, where the ribs meet the skin un-primed. This is the trade off that in my opinion is well worth if for the amount of time the quick build will save. Larry Rosen 40356 Paul Walter wrote: > Just wondering, > when assembling my 7A empennage I polished, anodised and primed every > component before assembly. > upon receiving my quick build kit and with regard to corrosion > protection, I thought that the quality of the priming job of the kit > left a little to be desired, granted the quality of riveting was A1. > > Do any of the other members of the group have any reservations at all > about going the Quick Build route ?. I would like to hear your thoughts. > If it were not for this minor gripe I would go the A/B on my 10 or > any other RV in a heart beat - the saving in time alone makes the Q/K > unbeatable value. > > Paul Walter > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Engine
Date: Oct 08, 2005
Paul, By "ugly snorkel" do you mean that sweet-looking air intake underneath the spinner? I think part of the purpose of that is to get quasi ram-air (even though it is going through the filter) and to get cooler air into the engine that isn't being preheated by cooling the cylinders. I could be way off, but I wouldn't trade that look for a smooth bottom cowl unless performance would noticeable increase. $.02 Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter Subject: RV10-List: Engine While on the engine subject, does the 540 come in any variant that does not require that ugly snorkel under front of engine cowl. I think the 200 hp version of the 360 for RV 7 & 8 does away with snorkel so thought it may be possible. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
Randy forgot one last thing, Get a good divorce lawyer unless you are single or have a great spouse that will totally understand and support you in the process. I highly suggest reading Dan Checkoway's "The married dudes guide to aircraft building". Link is pasted below. I thank my better half on a daily basis for understanding this obsession, which it will become, trust me. http://www.rvproject.com/wife.html Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
The Grezt mount is a great product, mine came out perfectly and you get an appreciation for what it is like to have to lay out a few rivet holes with a ruler. Heres a shot of mine with Jon Johanson heated pitot. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Engine
Take a good look at the front of a HRII Rocket (RV-4 on steroids). IO-540 with the P-51 Mustang style intake. Would take a little glass work but worth (IMNSHO) it. John Harmon makes two separate adaptors to fit the cowl to the intake. You would need the 90 degree "elbow" for the engine and the fiberglass "smiley" for the cowl. N561FS with the MT 4 blade too really looks "goood". KABONG Do Not Archive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Walter To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 2:20 AM Subject: RV10-List: Engine While on the engine subject, does the 540 come in any variant that does not require that ugly snorkel under front of engine cowl. I think the 200 hp version of the 360 for RV 7 & 8 does away with snorkel so thought it may be possible. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
Date: Oct 08, 2005
Wait a second! That's a pretty sick to suggest choosing an airplane over a wife. If you do start getting AIDS, then get rid of the source of the problem (the airplane) not the victim of the problem (the wife). Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber Randy forgot one last thing, Get a good divorce lawyer unless you are single or have a great spouse that will totally understand and support you in the process. I highly suggest reading Dan Checkoway's "The married dudes guide to aircraft building". Link is pasted below. I thank my better half on a daily basis for understanding this obsession, which it will become, trust me. http://www.rvproject.com/wife.html Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 08, 2005
Nice work. We added the Gretz mount after the wing was finished which was a fair bit more work. We also just added a heated pitot to replace the Dynon AOA pitot. Fortunately we were able to fish the heated pitot power wire through the AOA pitot tube which was not needed anymore. Wiring that thing up and hooking up the pitot line was a lot of work with the wing closed up and on the plane. All this to say, everybody should decide what pitot they are going with before they finish their wings so they can do something like you did and make it fairly easy to remove and replace if there is a problem. I really like Tim's idea of putting it further out the wing where it can be accessed from the open wingtip. It is a pain working around the aileron controls to get a the pitot to replace it. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing order + components The Grezt mount is a great product, mine came out perfectly and you get an appreciation for what it is like to have to lay out a few rivet holes with a ruler. Heres a shot of mine with Jon Johanson heated pitot. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Heated Pitot, AoA ports
Anyone know the price of the Gretz heated Pitot? Their website doesn't even list it! Also, when should you buy/install the Angle of Attack ports? Any info on this would be helpful, since I've never dealt with AoA instruments before. -Jim 40384 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot, AoA ports
You can get it from SteinAir here <http://www.steinair.com/accessories.htm>. Cost is $425. Do not know what the cost is if you get it directly from Gretz. I believe you need to call or email Gretz. If you get a price from Gretz email back to the list an let us know. Stein also has the mount. $118 for chrome, $95 unpainted. Larry Rosen 40256 N205EN (reserved) Working on the bagage door today James Hein wrote: > > Anyone know the price of the Gretz heated Pitot? Their website doesn't > even list it! > > Also, when should you buy/install the Angle of Attack ports? Any info > on this would be helpful, since I've never dealt with AoA instruments > before. > > -Jim 40384 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integraonline.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot, AoA ports
Date: Oct 08, 2005
Jim, Try Stein. http://www.steinair.com/accessories.htm Rob Hunter 40432 H/S -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot, AoA ports Anyone know the price of the Gretz heated Pitot? Their website doesn't even list it! Also, when should you buy/install the Angle of Attack ports? Any info on this would be helpful, since I've never dealt with AoA instruments before. -Jim 40384 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Heated Pitot, AoA ports
Date: Oct 08, 2005
I just talked to him the other day and I think he said it was $425. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot, AoA ports Anyone know the price of the Gretz heated Pitot? Their website doesn't even list it! Also, when should you buy/install the Angle of Attack ports? Any info on this would be helpful, since I've never dealt with AoA instruments before. -Jim 40384 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Heated Pitot, AoA ports
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Same price directly from him. Go with who ever has them in stock. Warren just got more in about 2 weeks ago after a couple month wait on his molder so make sure you order it well before you need it. Mounts shouldn't be a problem and I would just go with the paintable one if you get his pitot as it's a type of plastic so you can't chrome it. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Flaps -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heated Pitot, AoA ports You can get it from SteinAir here <http://www.steinair.com/accessories.htm>. Cost is $425. Do not know what the cost is if you get it directly from Gretz. I believe you need to call or email Gretz. If you get a price from Gretz email back to the list an let us know. Stein also has the mount. $118 for chrome, $95 unpainted. Larry Rosen 40256 N205EN (reserved) Working on the bagage door today James Hein wrote: > > Anyone know the price of the Gretz heated Pitot? Their website doesn't > even list it! > > Also, when should you buy/install the Angle of Attack ports? Any info > on this would be helpful, since I've never dealt with AoA instruments > before. > > -Jim 40384 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: Heated Pitot, AoA ports
Date: Oct 08, 2005
$425.00, and the mount is sold separately (some want a chrome mount and some want un-painted mounts) Same price whether you buy them from me or Gretz or his other dealers. The AOA ports are most easily installed during wing construction, but can be retro-fitted later if need be. It's just easier to do both when working on the wings. Cheers, Stein. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Hein Subject: RV10-List: Heated Pitot, AoA ports Anyone know the price of the Gretz heated Pitot? Their website doesn't even list it! Also, when should you buy/install the Angle of Attack ports? Any info on this would be helpful, since I've never dealt with AoA instruments before. -Jim 40384 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Van's stall warning switch
Date: Oct 08, 2005
To anyone who has installed Vans's stall warning switch: Instructions call for adjusting the switch for minimal travel for activation/deactivation. I have adjusted for 1/8 inch travel for activation, is that about right? Still plenty of room for the vane to travel in the slot I'm not sure what dimension "minimal" is. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Re: Van's stall warning switch
John, I adjusted mine so the switch closure occurs (when the switch is mounted in the wing) at mid travel in the opening. There are instructions indicating a preferred angle as the tab comes from the leading edge. You just need to make sure the switch is going to activate, de-activate for the given mounting position and skin opening. However, I am not flying yet, so there may be some adjusting required. Also, I am planning on using an Angle Of Attack sensor as well. I still question why put in the stall warning switch if AOA is installed too. I just didn't have a good reason not to go ahead in put it in. Jim Combs #40192 - N312F - Fuselage ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> Date: Sat, 8 Oct 2005 15:37:23 -0400 To anyone who has installed Vans's stall warning switch: Instructions call for adjusting the switch for minimal travel for activation/deactivation. I have adjusted for 1/8 inch travel for activation, is that about right? Still plenty of room for the vane to travel in the slot I'm not sure what dimension "minimal" is. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot, AoA ports
Date: Oct 08, 2005
Hello Listers, The GA-1000 is $425 if you purchase it directly from me or Stein Air. I do have them in stock currently, but they have been going fast. It is a good idea to order the GA-1000 before you really need it to make sure it is available. I am working on getting the manufacturing process done faster, but it is taking time to gear up to the demand. The mounting bracket kits are nearly always in stock. I have been soooo busy in getting the GA-1000 made and out the door I have not had time to complete the new website. It should be done shortly however. Meanwhile, you can call me or e-mail me to order or to ask questions. The best number to call me is 208-834-2312 which is the Gretz Aero office phone. I will be traveling Sunday 10-9-05 to Thursday 10-13-05. You can call my cell phone while I am traveling. The cell phone is 720-308-0010. When I am at my home or office the cell phone does not work (no cell site here). I will be checking the 208 number while traveling and will return calls once I pick them up. I will accept VISA or MASTERCARD for payment. I hope this helps. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ---- wrote: > > > Anyone know the price of the Gretz heated Pitot? Their website doesn't > even list it! > > Also, when should you buy/install the Angle of Attack ports? Any info on > this would be helpful, since I've never dealt with AoA instruments before. > > -Jim 40384 > > > > > > > > > > > > > Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 08, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit
Well: good news,bad news, 1st the bad news, Jan wasn't @ Copperstate, They had a booth but the girl in the booth said he was out of the country. The only person available to ask questions to was an RV 7A Builder with an H6 installation who had his plane there (nice!) and has been working w/ Jan doing some recent testing (There's a recent blurb on the Egg website). He really wasn't knowledgeable regarding any plans for a-10 installation. And neither was anybody else in the booth. It seems their sweet spot is the 4cly Lyc 360 market and for that application I think it's a good fit, it would also be a good fit for anybody that had been thinking about the Continental for the RV-10. After thinking on this some more, not withstanding the benefits of lower cost, reliability(implied), smoothness, newer technology,Mogas etc. I'm uncomfortable with a), a lesser rated HP (240-??). and b). in order to get even that HP they have to spin the engine a lot faster than they do for the 200 hp versions. Close to or @ redline. And then they have to supercharge it. Seems that's pushing the envelope towards an edge that hasn't been proved (in aircraft) yet. It may be that this all proves to be non issues in the future, but I'm looking to get as close to 200mph out of my 10 as I can (just ego). And going to a less powerful platform, that's already pushed towards the upperend of it's performance envelope, isn't where I think I want to be. I'll continue to watch and listen to any developments, but won't be putting the Subie in any critical path on my project plan. If theres an RV-10 program in the future @ Egg, then Jan is probably the only person who knows about it. (And the looks of those tow mufflers hanging below the cowl also turns me off) Talked with a couple of other engine builders who were all quoting prices and functions similar to what has been reported on this list. They, are sending quotes and options via snail mail. The good news, (depending on when you need your engine), I spoke with the ECI/Titan folks and they are well into their 540 program and if you can wait til next Sept for your engine, they will be ready with all of the parts, They were partnered with an engine rebuilder from SanAntinio Tx. who was in the booth next to them, and he indicated that he expected the price to be just under 30k. His costs estimates were derived from a combination of 1. what his cost are to build an Titan 360 currently using ECI parts, and 2. What his cost are to rebuild a 540 using the ECI cyl assemblies. That's all new everything. with a stronger case, some improvements where the case and crank mate. That will not include the roller tappet technology that Lyc is now pushing. (heard a RUMOR that its not as rosy as hoped for and the added complexity is taking a toll) I've got some information and a CD that I will need to wade through over the next few days in order to better compare apples to apples, but it certainly sounds interesting, and while the timeline is a bit longer than I'd like, As most projects seem to go that'll probably still end up within my window. I looked for an insurance underwriter or agent to ask Michaels question to, but none were there. Deems Davis # 406 Wing Ribs http://deemsrv10.com/ Bill and Tami Britton wrote: > >Deems, get all the info you can get out of Jan at Copperstate and please >report back. I've been interested in his engines since I first found out >about them a couple years back. I was ready to buy one of his 2.5's when I >was planning on a RV-7, but now that I'm building a -10 I really hope he can >make the H-6 work. The only thing that still bugs me a little is the high >RPM's on take off. I know the engines do that all the time in the cars, but >it just sounds too high. Probably won't be a problem. > >Anyway, please report back if you have time. > >Bill Britton >RV-10 #40137 >Elevators in progress >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> >To: >Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 3:35 PM >Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines > > > > >> >>This is making the Egg/Subie look more and more interesting to me. He' >>going to be @ Copperstate this weekend, and I look forward to hearing >>1st hand about his plans for the RV-10 installation. >>(I just saw on ANN an AD for Lyc 360 & 540 cranks, maybe this is how Lyc >>expects to pay for it) >> >>Deems Davis # 406 >>Wing Main Spar >>http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >>William Curtis wrote: >> >> >> >>>Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to >>>$42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of >>>the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know >>>what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could >>>get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC >>>for a little more. I think Ill be looking at the IO-540 clone from >>>Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the >>>210HP Continental IO-360. >>> >>> >>> >>>>Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and >>>> >>>> >>>noticed >>> >>> >>>>that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know >>>> >>>> >if > > >>>>this has the new tapped technology? >>>> >>>> >>>William Curtis >>>40237 - wings >>>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber
Date: Oct 08, 2005
I took the SportAir course on sheet metal building last week. The question of QB vs SB came up. The EAA guy said "why should I spend twice as much for half the fun?" While some people are indeed in a hurry to fly - and there certainly is nothing wrong with that - some seem to like the process of building as much as flying. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber You have great goals. Here is my recommendations to anyone building a RV10. 1 Go quick build unless you have a plane that you fly now or you are retired and love to build. It will take months off of most peoples build times. 2 Plan on 150,000.00 for a good IFR platform. If you save a buck here and there, great. you won't be upset when it comes in a little more. 3 Have the panel built by someone, anyone. It will cut 2 monthes off of the project. I would also recommend that the person wiring the panel is also someone who wires entire planes as well. If you do the airframe wiring yourself and they are doing the panel, the wire gauges can all be worked out very easily. Don't know what wire gets run for the pitot heat? Just ask them, they do it all day long. 4 Get help. Deburing isn't hard and a local kid that want's to get involved in the project, or as I lucked into a great retired guy that also want to build a plane. The plane isn't hard to build but it does require the hours to be spent. 5 You must build at home or live in the hanger. Do not take the kids to socker practice, do not go out to dinner more the 1 night a week. Do not cut the grass until you absolutly have to. It is a major waste of time that could be better spent working on the plane. Do not fix up the house, that can come after the plane is built. 6 Oh one more thing. Leave the Web sites to someone else. There as some great ones out there you can't compete with them, and it is time that would be better spent reading the plans for tomorrows tasks. 7 If you want to build fast - don't prime. I primed and I would do it again but I am not convinced it the best thing since sliced bread. 2200 hours slow build. 1800 hours QB. I think one year is doable but you better stay away from that lawn or it will be 1 1/2 years. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber Mike, Good questions. A trip through the land of RV web sites will help you, greatly. Also, search the archives. There are many references there as to the time to build and costs. I cannot do anything but give you a projected cost range that I came up with for my purposes (IFR panel, new engine, etc), and that was between $120,000 to $140,000. I hope the estimated range is high; I doubt it. But to me, the one thing that disturbed me about your post was the "need" to get this done within a year or less. Randy, the first totally completed RV-10 to fly, was finished in 20 months, with help, both in terms of physical labor, but also in terms of subsections being farmed out, such as the panel. (Randy can fill you in on exactly what were his shortcuts.) Twenty months is fast, my friend. I expect to take between 24 and 48 months, depending if I, too, go QB, which is still being debated. For a plane of this complexity, anything south of 24 months would be proud to crow about, but less than 12? Please don't set that as your goal. This stuff is doable, but it is not strictly a Lego or erector set. By the way, I work on it each evening for 2 hours (when I'm not traveling on business) and each and every weekend for at least 6 hours (when I'm not being pulled away by others who don't understand the passion and addiction, but whose needs must be recognized - none of us are total recluses, yet), and there's no way that I could get it done in less time than Randy's 20 months. I have all the tools, and the requisite knowledge and skills, and there's no way. In short, enjoy the process, build well and have some fun...or, buy one already built. I'm sure there will be a few up for sale soon. My best, John Jessen 40328 HS -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lee Subject: RV10-List: Real time and cost to build? From a new subscriber OK I am sure this has been asked before, but maybe someoneone could send me copies of any list digests with information on this, or just reply directly. I am ver seriously considering an RV-10 project. What I would like is information from real builders on the following: Assuming the following: 1) RV-10 Quick build kit 2) Builder has good mechanical aptitude and electonics experience. 3) Never built an airplane before, or any project of this size. 4) Planning to keep customizations to a minimum. 5) Need to keep costs down, planning on finding a used mid time engine, CS prop, analog engine gauges, basic JPI engine monitor, will shell out $ for a Garmin 530 / 430 combo and indicators. 6) Want an IFR platform (hence the 530 / 430 combo) 7) GPS / Nav coupled auto pilot with altitude hold. 8) Will paint myself, will have uphoulstry done. 9) Basic sound proofing. 10) Wingtip stobes, plus stobe beacon, otherwise standard lighting with taxi / landing light. Can I get an estimate of build time and costs? What types of unexpected costs that are not in the above are there? Anyone else out there with similar goals / expectaions? What are other builders doing to keep costs down? I know I can save some $$ by buying a standard kit instead of a quick build, but I have a need to have the aircraft done in less than a year, working evenings and weekends. THANKS!!!!! for any and all help! Mike ==================================== ==================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 08, 2005
Subject: Re: RE: Lycoming Engines
For me, it was their performance work plus the 3 year parts and warranty.... grumpy #40404 In a message dated 10/7/2005 3:44:06 PM Central Standard Time, wcurtis(at)core.com writes: >Is there a reason that people are talking about the Aerosport >engine at $37,500 over the Teledyne engine at $34,150? William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Engine Talk...
Date: Oct 08, 2005
All this engine talk makes me wonder... is there any data out there which compares the average time on wing or time to major maintenance (top overhaul, new cylinder required, something flat out fails) for all of the more popular engine builders or the factory. Granted there are a lot of variables on the engine once it leaves the builder but it would be interesting to see who has the least failures overall regardless of who is maintaining the engine or what aircraft it is flying in etc. Chris Lucas #40072 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Talk...
Date: Oct 08, 2005
----- Original Message ----- From: Chris To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 10:36 PM Subject: RV10-List: Engine Talk... All this engine talk makes me wonder... is there any data out there which compares the average time on wing or time to major maintenance (top overhaul, new cylinder required, something flat out fails) for all of the more popular engine builders or the factory............. Great question Chris, I can't think of any source that might have reliable data. Aviation Consumer and similar pubs do a good bit of surveying but they are still taking a small sample. Reputations, good and bad, are quickly magnified by lists like ours. To add another data point; G&N Aircraft in Griffith, IN www.gnaircraft.com/ is another of the authorized Lycoming clone builders. (Ask for Dennis Wyman) A friend of mine and I had very similar 0-320 run-outs overhauled there. Both engines are still running strong at 700 hours (80/80 compression) for me and my friend who must be around 1000 hours now. I think any of the major reputable re-builders would be a safe choice. I am sure also that there are many small local shops that do quality rebuilds as well. Even the best will probably suffer a rare engine that does not do well early in its service cycle. This is one reason why for me at least, I want an engine that has been through a test cell run prior to delivery. As you mentioned , I think the biggest factor is the operator. A great engine rebuild can be destroyed in the first few hours if it is abused. Dick Sipp RV4 N250DS RV10 40065 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Heated Pitot Gretz mount
What do you do, just center the aluminum tubing in the mount, cut it long, and then trim to fit when you install the heated pitot tube? Larry Rosen N205EN (reserved) Tim Olson wrote: > > > 1. You can just install the pitot mount, but you really > wouldn't need the pitot itself until after the wing is > even closed up...as long as you mount it in an accessible place. > I like that 1st or 2nd bay from the tip. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "terry doe" <tdoe(at)dodo.com.au>
Subject: F1069 Skins
Date: Oct 09, 2005
Can anyone tell me how they bent the roll in the F1069 fwd side skins I've tried vans way but the skin thickness wont allow it to roll Terry 40034 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: wing build sequence questions
Sean, if I recall correct, you skipped ahead in the wings section and worked on the tanks, outboard LE and flaps and ailerons, before doing the ribs and skins. My 'shop' i somewhat limited in size (15'x15') The size and weight of these spars coupled with the vision of how much room these will take up when coupled to the skins, makes me think I want to get all of the other wing assemblies complete 1st and then do the ribs and skins just before integrating the other components, then I can move the whole wing assembly to storage when starting on the fuse. 1. Have you encountered any gotcha's in this approach? 2. I also recall a discussion that when you do get to doing the ribs and skins, that this was a good place (wings, ribs & skins) to apply the ream,dimple, deburr, cleco and rivet sequence rather than the double cleco and match drill as per plans, anybody verify that this saved some time? Thanks as always Deems Davis # 406 Wing Ribs / Other? http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 09, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: wing build sequence questions
Yes, I did the main spar section, then skipped ahead and did all the control surfaces, leading edge, and tanks before doing the main ribs and top skin. This allowed me to have ample workspace available without cluttering the space up with the main wing structure. I am now into the main ribs and rear spar sections and I am glad I did the other sections first. I have run into no issues doing it this way and I would recommend it to anyone that has a small workspace. (I'm doing construction in one side of a two car garage.) -Sean #40303 (tanks done!!! working on rear spar) Deems Davis wrote: > > > Sean, if I recall correct, you skipped ahead in the wings section and > worked on the tanks, outboard LE and flaps and ailerons, before doing > the ribs and skins. My 'shop' i somewhat limited in size (15'x15') The > size and weight of these spars coupled with the vision of how much > room these will take up when coupled to the skins, makes me think I > want to get all of the other wing assemblies complete 1st and then do > the ribs and skins just before integrating the other components, then > I can move the whole wing assembly to storage when starting on the fuse. > 1. Have you encountered any gotcha's in this approach? > > 2. I also recall a discussion that when you do get to doing the ribs > and skins, that this was a good place (wings, ribs & skins) to apply > the ream,dimple, deburr, cleco and rivet sequence rather than the > double cleco and match drill as per plans, anybody verify that this > saved some time? > > Thanks as always > > Deems Davis # 406 > Wing Ribs / Other? > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: wing build sequence questions
Date: Oct 09, 2005
I second Sean's response. I'm cramped for workspace also and finished the tanks, leading edges, ailerons, flaps, torque tubes and aileron pushrods before the main wing. Now top skins are on both wings and I'm comtemplating the necessary wiring before closing. No gotchas at all with this route. Did discover some missing parts, however, that weren't on my inventory list but are in the plans. Minor stuff, but no more than an annoyance since I didn't need them to move ahead. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 09, 2005
I don't think I've ever seen a pitot that far out. Is there a reason why they are in closer? I don't have a clue what that reason might be, given that it's there to be pressurized. You just don't want to block it. John Jessen 40328 HS -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing order + components Nice work. We added the Gretz mount after the wing was finished which was a fair bit more work. We also just added a heated pitot to replace the Dynon AOA pitot. Fortunately we were able to fish the heated pitot power wire through the AOA pitot tube which was not needed anymore. Wiring that thing up and hooking up the pitot line was a lot of work with the wing closed up and on the plane. All this to say, everybody should decide what pitot they are going with before they finish their wings so they can do something like you did and make it fairly easy to remove and replace if there is a problem. I really like Tim's idea of putting it further out the wing where it can be accessed from the open wingtip. It is a pain working around the aileron controls to get a the pitot to replace it. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing order + components The Grezt mount is a great product, mine came out perfectly and you get an appreciation for what it is like to have to lay out a few rivet holes with a ruler. Heres a shot of mine with Jon Johanson heated pitot. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit
Date: Oct 10, 2005
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Was there any conversation regarding the FAA's proposed AD on ECI rods for their clone 360 and pma parts for 540 engines? I believe the part number is AEL 11750. Parts alone to replace those parts will be $700/cylinder. Rhonda -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit Well: good news,bad news, 1st the bad news, Jan wasn't @ Copperstate, They had a booth but the girl in the booth said he was out of the country. The only person available to ask questions to was an RV 7A Builder with an H6 installation who had his plane there (nice!) and has been working w/ Jan doing some recent testing (There's a recent blurb on the Egg website). He really wasn't knowledgeable regarding any plans for a-10 installation. And neither was anybody else in the booth. It seems their sweet spot is the 4cly Lyc 360 market and for that application I think it's a good fit, it would also be a good fit for anybody that had been thinking about the Continental for the RV-10. After thinking on this some more, not withstanding the benefits of lower cost, reliability(implied), smoothness, newer technology,Mogas etc. I'm uncomfortable with a), a lesser rated HP (240-??). and b). in order to get even that HP they have to spin the engine a lot faster than they do for the 200 hp versions. Close to or @ redline. And then they have to supercharge it. Seems that's pushing the envelope towards an edge that hasn't been proved (in aircraft) yet. It may be that this all proves to be non issues in the future, but I'm looking to get as close to 200mph out of my 10 as I can (just ego). And going to a less powerful platform, that's already pushed towards the upperend of it's performance envelope, isn't where I think I want to be. I'll continue to watch and listen to any developments, but won't be putting the Subie in any critical path on my project plan. If theres an RV-10 program in the future @ Egg, then Jan is probably the only person who knows about it. (And the looks of those tow mufflers hanging below the cowl also turns me off) Talked with a couple of other engine builders who were all quoting prices and functions similar to what has been reported on this list. They, are sending quotes and options via snail mail. The good news, (depending on when you need your engine), I spoke with the ECI/Titan folks and they are well into their 540 program and if you can wait til next Sept for your engine, they will be ready with all of the parts, They were partnered with an engine rebuilder from SanAntinio Tx. who was in the booth next to them, and he indicated that he expected the price to be just under 30k. His costs estimates were derived from a combination of 1. what his cost are to build an Titan 360 currently using ECI parts, and 2. What his cost are to rebuild a 540 using the ECI cyl assemblies. That's all new everything. with a stronger case, some improvements where the case and crank mate. That will not include the roller tappet technology that Lyc is now pushing. (heard a RUMOR that its not as rosy as hoped for and the added complexity is taking a toll) I've got some information and a CD that I will need to wade through over the next few days in order to better compare apples to apples, but it certainly sounds interesting, and while the timeline is a bit longer than I'd like, As most projects seem to go that'll probably still end up within my window. I looked for an insurance underwriter or agent to ask Michaels question to, but none were there. Deems Davis # 406 Wing Ribs http://deemsrv10.com/ Bill and Tami Britton wrote: > >Deems, get all the info you can get out of Jan at Copperstate and please >report back. I've been interested in his engines since I first found out >about them a couple years back. I was ready to buy one of his 2.5's when I >was planning on a RV-7, but now that I'm building a -10 I really hope he can >make the H-6 work. The only thing that still bugs me a little is the high >RPM's on take off. I know the engines do that all the time in the cars, but >it just sounds too high. Probably won't be a problem. > >Anyway, please report back if you have time. > >Bill Britton >RV-10 #40137 >Elevators in progress >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> >To: >Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 3:35 PM >Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines > > > > >> >>This is making the Egg/Subie look more and more interesting to me. He' >>going to be @ Copperstate this weekend, and I look forward to hearing >>1st hand about his plans for the RV-10 installation. >>(I just saw on ANN an AD for Lyc 360 & 540 cranks, maybe this is how Lyc >>expects to pay for it) >> >>Deems Davis # 406 >>Wing Main Spar >>http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >>William Curtis wrote: >> >> >> >>>Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to >>>$42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of >>>the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know >>>what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could >>>get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC >>>for a little more. I think I'll be looking at the IO-540 clone from >>>Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the >>>210HP Continental IO-360. >>> >>> >>> >>>>Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and >>>> >>>> >>>noticed >>> >>> >>>>that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know >>>> >>>> >if > > >>>>this has the new tapped technology? >>>> >>>> >>>William Curtis >>>40237 - wings >>>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit
Date: Oct 10, 2005
Dear ECi Customer, As you may know, the FAA has issued a Notice of Proposed Rule Making (NPRM) against ECi connecting rods AEL11750. It is Eci's position that this NPRM and possible A.D. is totally unnecessary and that no safety of flight concerns exist. We have been "working" with the FAA for the past 18 months to convince them of this but to no avail. If there is a conformity of the OD of the bearing shell to the bore of the connecting rod, significant enough to increase the bearing operating temperature, the failure would occur fairly rapidly ( 1 million cycles or 10 hours of operation). Certainly within the first 100 hours. No failures have occurred. We urge you to comment to the docket recommending against the AD or, at worst case, to make it effective at TBO. We are evaluating legal options to address this situation and will keep you informed. Regards, Ed Salmeron -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rhonda Bewley Subject: RE: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit Was there any conversation regarding the FAA's proposed AD on ECI rods for their clone 360 and pma parts for 540 engines? I believe the part number is AEL 11750. Parts alone to replace those parts will be $700/cylinder. Rhonda -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit Well: good news,bad news, 1st the bad news, Jan wasn't @ Copperstate, They had a booth but the girl in the booth said he was out of the country. The only person available to ask questions to was an RV 7A Builder with an H6 installation who had his plane there (nice!) and has been working w/ Jan doing some recent testing (There's a recent blurb on the Egg website). He really wasn't knowledgeable regarding any plans for a-10 installation. And neither was anybody else in the booth. It seems their sweet spot is the 4cly Lyc 360 market and for that application I think it's a good fit, it would also be a good fit for anybody that had been thinking about the Continental for the RV-10. After thinking on this some more, not withstanding the benefits of lower cost, reliability(implied), smoothness, newer technology,Mogas etc. I'm uncomfortable with a), a lesser rated HP (240-??). and b). in order to get even that HP they have to spin the engine a lot faster than they do for the 200 hp versions. Close to or @ redline. And then they have to supercharge it. Seems that's pushing the envelope towards an edge that hasn't been proved (in aircraft) yet. It may be that this all proves to be non issues in the future, but I'm looking to get as close to 200mph out of my 10 as I can (just ego). And going to a less powerful platform, that's already pushed towards the upperend of it's performance envelope, isn't where I think I want to be. I'll continue to watch and listen to any developments, but won't be putting the Subie in any critical path on my project plan. If theres an RV-10 program in the future @ Egg, then Jan is probably the only person who knows about it. (And the looks of those tow mufflers hanging below the cowl also turns me off) Talked with a couple of other engine builders who were all quoting prices and functions similar to what has been reported on this list. They, are sending quotes and options via snail mail. The good news, (depending on when you need your engine), I spoke with the ECI/Titan folks and they are well into their 540 program and if you can wait til next Sept for your engine, they will be ready with all of the parts, They were partnered with an engine rebuilder from SanAntinio Tx. who was in the booth next to them, and he indicated that he expected the price to be just under 30k. His costs estimates were derived from a combination of 1. what his cost are to build an Titan 360 currently using ECI parts, and 2. What his cost are to rebuild a 540 using the ECI cyl assemblies. That's all new everything. with a stronger case, some improvements where the case and crank mate. That will not include the roller tappet technology that Lyc is now pushing. (heard a RUMOR that its not as rosy as hoped for and the added complexity is taking a toll) I've got some information and a CD that I will need to wade through over the next few days in order to better compare apples to apples, but it certainly sounds interesting, and while the timeline is a bit longer than I'd like, As most projects seem to go that'll probably still end up within my window. I looked for an insurance underwriter or agent to ask Michaels question to, but none were there. Deems Davis # 406 Wing Ribs http://deemsrv10.com/ Bill and Tami Britton wrote: > >Deems, get all the info you can get out of Jan at Copperstate and please >report back. I've been interested in his engines since I first found out >about them a couple years back. I was ready to buy one of his 2.5's when I >was planning on a RV-7, but now that I'm building a -10 I really hope he can >make the H-6 work. The only thing that still bugs me a little is the high >RPM's on take off. I know the engines do that all the time in the cars, but >it just sounds too high. Probably won't be a problem. > >Anyway, please report back if you have time. > >Bill Britton >RV-10 #40137 >Elevators in progress >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> >To: >Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 3:35 PM >Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines > > > > >> >>This is making the Egg/Subie look more and more interesting to me. He' >>going to be @ Copperstate this weekend, and I look forward to hearing >>1st hand about his plans for the RV-10 installation. >>(I just saw on ANN an AD for Lyc 360 & 540 cranks, maybe this is how Lyc >>expects to pay for it) >> >>Deems Davis # 406 >>Wing Main Spar >>http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >>William Curtis wrote: >> >> >> >>>Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to >>>$42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering of >>>the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know >>>what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could >>>get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC >>>for a little more. I think I'll be looking at the IO-540 clone from >>>Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the >>>210HP Continental IO-360. >>> >>> >>> >>>>Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and >>>> >>>> >>>noticed >>> >>> >>>>that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone know >>>> >>>> >if > > >>>>this has the new tapped technology? >>>> >>>> >>>William Curtis >>>40237 - wings >>>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 10, 2005
What were your reason for replacing the Dynon Pitot/AoA. Is it simply because you had to have a heated Pitot and Dynon still hasn't delivered one? I wanted to close up my wings and was waiting for Dynon to release there heated pitot, but no luck, so I purchased there unheated one in hopes to replace it with there heated one down the road. Thank You Ray Doerr CDNI Principal Engineer Sprint PCS 16020 West 113th Street Lenexa, KS 66219 Mailstop KSLNXK0101 (913) 859-1414 (Office) (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) (913) 859-1234 (Fax) Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing order + components Nice work. We added the Gretz mount after the wing was finished which was a fair bit more work. We also just added a heated pitot to replace the Dynon AOA pitot. Fortunately we were able to fish the heated pitot power wire through the AOA pitot tube which was not needed anymore. Wiring that thing up and hooking up the pitot line was a lot of work with the wing closed up and on the plane. All this to say, everybody should decide what pitot they are going with before they finish their wings so they can do something like you did and make it fairly easy to remove and replace if there is a problem. I really like Tim's idea of putting it further out the wing where it can be accessed from the open wingtip. It is a pain working around the aileron controls to get a the pitot to replace it. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing order + components The Grezt mount is a great product, mine came out perfectly and you get an appreciation for what it is like to have to lay out a few rivet holes with a ruler. Heres a shot of mine with Jon Johanson heated pitot. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: F1069 Skins
Date: Oct 10, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Terry, I went through the same thing. I posted the solution over on the old Yahoo Group list but am reposting here for archive purposes. I've also asked Tim to put in his building tips area for future slow builders. Of course, now that he's got paint on his plane it might not be a priority :) Bob #40105 > First the problem: > The picture on page 29-11 illustrates how to roll the forward > fuselage skins. It involves clamping a piece of wood to a workbench, > clamping a couple of "construction angles" to the skin and then > rolling the skin. Finally, while holding the skin in a "rolled > state" you give a sharp whack with a rubber mallet. > > Here's a couple of hints: > 1) The angles are shown held to the skins with vice grips (the kind > that form a "C"). There really isn't much of the angle to grab > onto. It turns out to be MUCH easier if you use the kind without > the "pads". C clamps and other methods of holding the angles to the > skin are difficult at best. You either don't have enough surface to > clamp or there won't be clearance while rolling. The exception is at > the small end of the "cone" - there is a small C clamp there holding > the ends of the construction angles together. > > 2) Use actual C clamps to hold the skin and wood form down to the > workbench. I was originally using the "quick grip" type of sliding > clamps. You get a lot more clamping force with C clamps. > > I spent a long time last night working on the first forward skin and > the result was poor. Making the above two changes allowed me to do > the other side in only about 15-20 minutes! I then reclamped the > first skin and "touched it up". > > In the final analysis the picture on 29-11 is very good. If you do > it EXACTLY like it shows without tool substitutions it will turn out > great. Using the vice grips without the pads makes it even easier! > Do yourself a favor - if you don't have the right clamps, go get them > before starting! _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of terry doe Subject: RV10-List: F1069 Skins Can anyone tell me how they bent the roll in the F1069 fwd side skins I've tried vans way but the skin thickness wont allow it to roll Terry 40034 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Wing order + components
Ray, I am using the ACS AOA system and plan on using the GRT EFIS. Jon's tube was $325 at the time and is machined out of solid aluminum, with a beefy tube and nicly polished. Nothing against Dynon but the delay was the main reason. I like the thermostatic control. I don't plan on needing my pitot heat too much but it will be there if I need it. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing Tip Installation.
Date: Oct 10, 2005
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
When I installed my wing tips on my RV-9A, we had to make a template that marked the chord line of the wing on a piece of wood that was bolted to the tooling holes of the tip rib. You then extended these lines on the template. Then you installed the ailron and made sure the trailing lined up with this chord line. Then you lock the ailron in this position and install the tip tip trailing edge to match. I don't see any of this in the manual for the RV-10 and wonder how you are suppose to ensure the trailing edge of the ailron line up with the trailing edge of the wing tip when the ailron is in it's neutral position. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Wing order + components
You can install it anywhere you can get it secure, plumbed, in line with the aircraft datum line and the location allows unobstructed true ram airflow, i.e. no propwash or turbulent air. For optimum location run it out the front of your spinner ;) but the top of the rudder would look cool too as would on the tip...your choice really. I just followed the rest of the RV crowd. It make a nice handle to move qaround the wing stand too :D. Rick S. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 10, 2005
Ray, See if you can return your pitot. I have a Dynon AOA pitot in a drawer that I am trying to find a home for. I think it is a great option for those who don't need heat. They are working on a heated version, but don't even have an estimated date of completion. In the flight up to MN the other day my dad descended through a little layer (only 2,500 feet thick) and had ice build-up on the tie-down ring when he landed and checked it out. He would have had to turn back without the heat. If you are flying VFR, though, you will never need it. Dynon does offer the AOA feature for a great price, though, which is only the cost for the pitot. Maybe I should install their AOA pitot in the other wing and use it for AOA and then the heated pitot for the other instruments....OK, maybe that's going a little too far. Anyway, the AOA Pitot is for sale for half of the Dynon retail price if anybody wants it. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R [NTK] Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing order + components What were your reason for replacing the Dynon Pitot/AoA. Is it simply because you had to have a heated Pitot and Dynon still hasn't delivered one? I wanted to close up my wings and was waiting for Dynon to release there heated pitot, but no luck, so I purchased there unheated one in hopes to replace it with there heated one down the road. Thank You Ray Doerr CDNI Principal Engineer Sprint PCS 16020 West 113th Street Lenexa, KS 66219 Mailstop KSLNXK0101 (913) 859-1414 (Office) (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) (913) 859-1234 (Fax) Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing order + components Nice work. We added the Gretz mount after the wing was finished which was a fair bit more work. We also just added a heated pitot to replace the Dynon AOA pitot. Fortunately we were able to fish the heated pitot power wire through the AOA pitot tube which was not needed anymore. Wiring that thing up and hooking up the pitot line was a lot of work with the wing closed up and on the plane. All this to say, everybody should decide what pitot they are going with before they finish their wings so they can do something like you did and make it fairly easy to remove and replace if there is a problem. I really like Tim's idea of putting it further out the wing where it can be accessed from the open wingtip. It is a pain working around the aileron controls to get a the pitot to replace it. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing order + components The Grezt mount is a great product, mine came out perfectly and you get an appreciation for what it is like to have to lay out a few rivet holes with a ruler. Heres a shot of mine with Jon Johanson heated pitot. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit
No, there wasn't. But, it seems that the ever expanding Lycoming AD on crankshafts indicates that they are not imune from the long arm of the FAA either. Rhonda Bewley wrote: > >Was there any conversation regarding the FAA's proposed AD on ECI rods >for their clone 360 and pma parts for 540 engines? I believe the part >number is AEL 11750. Parts alone to replace those parts will be >$700/cylinder. > >Rhonda >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis >Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 5:34 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines Copperstate visit > > >Well: good news,bad news, >1st the bad news, Jan wasn't @ Copperstate, They had a booth but the >girl in the booth said he was out of the country. The only person >available to ask questions to was an RV 7A Builder with an H6 >installation who had his plane there (nice!) and has been working w/ Jan > >doing some recent testing (There's a recent blurb on the Egg website). >He really wasn't knowledgeable regarding any plans for a-10 >installation. And neither was anybody else in the booth. It seems their >sweet spot is the 4cly Lyc 360 market and for that application I think >it's a good fit, it would also be a good fit for anybody that had been >thinking about the Continental for the RV-10. After thinking on this >some more, not withstanding the benefits of lower cost, >reliability(implied), smoothness, newer technology,Mogas etc. I'm >uncomfortable with a), a lesser rated HP (240-??). and b). in order to >get even that HP they have to spin the engine a lot faster than they do >for the 200 hp versions. Close to or @ redline. And then they have to >supercharge it. Seems that's pushing the envelope towards an edge that >hasn't been proved (in aircraft) yet. It may be that this all proves to >be non issues in the future, but I'm looking to get as close to 200mph >out of my 10 as I can (just ego). And going to a less powerful platform, > >that's already pushed towards the upperend of it's performance envelope, > >isn't where I think I want to be. I'll continue to watch and listen to >any developments, but won't be putting the Subie in any critical path on > >my project plan. If theres an RV-10 program in the future @ Egg, then >Jan is probably the only person who knows about it. (And the looks of >those tow mufflers hanging below the cowl also turns me off) >Talked with a couple of other engine builders who were all quoting >prices and functions similar to what has been reported on this list. >They, are sending quotes and options via snail mail. >The good news, (depending on when you need your engine), I spoke with >the ECI/Titan folks and they are well into their 540 program and if you > >can wait til next Sept for your engine, they will be ready with all of >the parts, They were partnered with an engine rebuilder from SanAntinio >Tx. who was in the booth next to them, and he indicated that he expected > >the price to be just under 30k. His costs estimates were derived from a >combination of 1. what his cost are to build an Titan 360 currently >using ECI parts, and 2. What his cost are to rebuild a 540 using the ECI > >cyl assemblies. That's all new everything. with a stronger case, some >improvements where the case and crank mate. That will not include the >roller tappet technology that Lyc is now pushing. (heard a RUMOR that >its not as rosy as hoped for and the added complexity is taking a toll) >I've got some information and a CD that I will need to wade through over > >the next few days in order to better compare apples to apples, but it >certainly sounds interesting, and while the timeline is a bit longer >than I'd like, As most projects seem to go that'll probably still end up > >within my window. >I looked for an insurance underwriter or agent to ask Michaels question >to, but none were there. > >Deems Davis # 406 >Wing Ribs >http://deemsrv10.com/ > > >Bill and Tami Britton wrote: > > > >> >> > > > >>Deems, get all the info you can get out of Jan at Copperstate and >> >> >please > > >>report back. I've been interested in his engines since I first found >> >> >out > > >>about them a couple years back. I was ready to buy one of his 2.5's >> >> >when I > > >>was planning on a RV-7, but now that I'm building a -10 I really hope >> >> >he can > > >>make the H-6 work. The only thing that still bugs me a little is the >> >> >high > > >>RPM's on take off. I know the engines do that all the time in the >> >> >cars, but > > >>it just sounds too high. Probably won't be a problem. >> >>Anyway, please report back if you have time. >> >>Bill Britton >>RV-10 #40137 >>Elevators in progress >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> >>To: >>Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 3:35 PM >>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Lycoming Engines >> >> >> >> >> >> >>> >>>This is making the Egg/Subie look more and more interesting to me. He' >>>going to be @ Copperstate this weekend, and I look forward to hearing >>>1st hand about his plans for the RV-10 installation. >>>(I just saw on ANN an AD for Lyc 360 & 540 cranks, maybe this is how >>> >>> >Lyc > > >>>expects to pay for it) >>> >>>Deems Davis # 406 >>>Wing Main Spar >>>http://deemsrv10.com/ >>> >>>William Curtis wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>Yup, they raised the price of the 260HP IO-540 from $38,990 to >>>>$42,650, an over $3,600 increase. However they now have an offering >>>> >>>> >of > > >>>>the 250HP O-540 for $37,500. Other than fuel injection, anyone know >>>>what else is different between these engines? It would seem you could >>>>get the O and add fuel injection for a lot less than $5,150 or FADEC >>>>for a little more. I think I'll be looking at the IO-540 clone from >>>>Aerosport. Maybe in these days of $5 avgas, they will reconsider the >>>>210HP Continental IO-360. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>>Back to the engine question. I am getting close to ordering one and >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>noticed >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>>that Vans prices went up considerably for the IO540. Does anyone >>>>> >>>>> >know > > >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>if >> >> >> >> >>>>>this has the new tapped technology? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>William Curtis >>>>40237 - wings >>>>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fw: RV10 kit
Date: Oct 10, 2005
----- Original Message ----- From: Sam Mazzotta Subject: Re: RV10 kit Hi David: The items in the RV10 kit (P/N: RV67910-C1P) are itentical to your Cessna 177 conversion kit except the firewall mounts are different. The RV Kit does not use the SK2003-36 rubber mount. The are 48 assemblies in the RV10 kit. Let me know if I can help your further. Sam Mazotta Skybolt Aeromotive Corp. ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill To: smazzotta(at)skybolt.com Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 7:34 PM Subject: RV10 kit What's the Bill of Material for the kit. I have previously installed the skybolt kit on my C177RG and Glastar and have already have some spare parts. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EMAproducts(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 10, 2005
Subject: re: Heated AOA Ports~ 10/08/05
Gentlemen: Unless you have a fully de/anti iced wing it will do you no good to have heated ports / vanes on your AOA system. I would not sell a heated AOA system to any aircraft unless it was fully certified to fly in icing conditions. Reason as follows: Do you want to believe your AOA vane if it is clean of ice and the wing has ice on it?? Do you want to believe your AOA pressure port computed system if the wing has ice on it, even if the port is clear? Do you want to believe your AOA pressure differential system if it is heated and the wing has ice on it? What do you know that Boeing, and all the other manufactures don't?? If you try to follow an AOA with ice on the wing it will lead you down a path that could very well be fatal. Boeing & Douglas (back when I was flying them) had no data for how icing would actually affect the lift~~other than lift would decrease and amount unknown, Rime, clear, mixed all create a different problem. In my certification paperwork on the RiteAngle it is stated: ANY evidence of icing on airframe, RiteAngle system must be turned off until clear of icing! IF you have a de/anti iced wing it is a different story, but I don't know of many homebuilts that have them! It is evident many haven't been as iced up as I have in the past 43 years!! And this includes aircarriers with full anti ice. ICE = most serious problem except possibly fire in the air. SAFETY FIRST Elbie Mendenhall EM Aviation, LLC www.riteangle.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: re: Heated AOA Ports~ 10/08/05
Date: Oct 10, 2005
Elbie, Point well taken re: heated AOA ports but that's not the way I interpreted the initial post. We were talking about heated pitot tubes and as an aside AOA. Many of us have waited for Dynon to come forward with their heated pitot which also includes the AOA info for their instrument. I'm most concerned with the heating for the pitot portion. Unable to understand Dynon's hesitation unless product liability has reared its ugly head. I can see where the company lawyers would get heartburn over the thought of us using their instrument IFR. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 10, 2005
Subject: RV10 Kit for Sale
From: "McIntosh, Todd" <McIntoshT(at)health.missouri.edu>
1.53 RCVD_NUMERIC_HELO Received: contains an IP address used for HELO Two RVs is one two many. The tail is done and the wing kit is inventoried but not started. Contact me at mcintoshtw(at)direcway.com if interested. Todd McIntosh RV9A N369TM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 80% Painted (paint gun???)
Date: Oct 10, 2005
Tim, Great information and a beautiful job painting, very impressive. One question that you may have already covered, but what paint gun did you use? Can't wait to get painting, but still a long way off, Marcus 40286 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: 80% Painted This weekend went off without a hitch. The weather was great and the pre-work got done just in time. I got the fuselage, wings, and cowls painted. All that's left is the VS, HS, and Rudder, along with the colored striping and letters. There is a LOT of prep work to paint the -10. I know I spent over 100 man hours getting it ready. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Wing Tips Don't Line Up
Date: Oct 10, 2005
I am attaching my wing tips and have all of the nutplates complete on one and the other drilled and clecoed. Neither of the wing tips line up with the ailerons in neutral position. I have clamped the ailerons in line with the flaps in full up position. The trailing edge of the right wing tip is about 1/2" lower than the trailing edge of the aileron. The trailing edge of the left wing tip is about 1/4" higher than the aileron. The trailing edges of the wing tips are about 1/4" - 3/8" too long. I can trim them without breaking the trailing edge joint. I cannot see any simple way of bending/aligning the wing tips except for perhaps cutting the trailing edge in half and reattaching them while trying to twist them into alignment. I would love to hear what others have done to deal with this. I really hope it is not bad parts cause I have put a lot of hours into these wingtips. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on QB Wing Tips ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AndrewTR30(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Subject: Re: Wing Tip Installation.
I spoke to Scott McDaniels at Copperstate this weekend about this very subject. After trimming my wing tips to fit it looked like the trailing edges were not lining up well. My first thought was that I would have to cut the ends of the wing tips open and then epoxy them back together in the right position. (Which would be the thing to do if you have already drilled the holes) Scott says that the leading edge of the tip can be sort of rotated inside the leading edge of the wing. A little movement there produces a pretty big change in the position of the trailing edge. Sure enough I tried it when I got home and it works. I am going to clamp some boards along the trailing edge of the flap, aileron and wing tip to keep everything lined up before i drill the tips. The full up position of the flap defines the neutral position of the aileron. If you would like I can take some pictures and send them to you. Andrew Rayhill 40078 Finishing wings. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Reaming question
Date: Oct 11, 2005
I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out on the group anyway. Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes. Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful look? Any thoughts? John Jessen 40328 HS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "terry doe" <tdoe(at)dodo.com.au>
Subject: Re: F1069 Skins
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Thanks Bob i'll give it a go Terry ----- Original Message ----- From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: F1069 Skins Terry, I went through the same thing. I posted the solution over on the old Yahoo Group list but am reposting here for archive purposes. I've also asked Tim to put in his building tips area for future slow builders. Of course, now that he's got paint on his plane it might not be a priority :) Bob #40105 > First the problem: > The picture on page 29-11 illustrates how to roll the forward > fuselage skins. It involves clamping a piece of wood to a workbench, > clamping a couple of "construction angles" to the skin and then > rolling the skin. Finally, while holding the skin in a "rolled > state" you give a sharp whack with a rubber mallet. > > Here's a couple of hints: > 1) The angles are shown held to the skins with vice grips (the kind > that form a "C"). There really isn't much of the angle to grab > onto. It turns out to be MUCH easier if you use the kind without > the "pads". C clamps and other methods of holding the angles to the > skin are difficult at best. You either don't have enough surface to > clamp or there won't be clearance while rolling. The exception is at > the small end of the "cone" - there is a small C clamp there holding > the ends of the construction angles together. > > 2) Use actual C clamps to hold the skin and wood form down to the > workbench. I was originally using the "quick grip" type of sliding > clamps. You get a lot more clamping force with C clamps. > > I spent a long time last night working on the first forward skin and > the result was poor. Making the above two changes allowed me to do > the other side in only about 15-20 minutes! I then reclamped the > first skin and "touched it up". > > In the final analysis the picture on 29-11 is very good. If you do > it EXACTLY like it shows without tool substitutions it will turn out > great. Using the vice grips without the pads makes it even easier! > Do yourself a favor - if you don't have the right clamps, go get them > before starting! From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of terry doe Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 4:30 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: F1069 Skins Can anyone tell me how they bent the roll in the F1069 fwd side skins I've tried vans way but the skin thickness wont allow it to roll Terry 40034 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Reaming question
Date: Oct 11, 2005
I'm reaming, and haven't used a glass. Doing the reaming still goes very and cogdill will save a lot. Bob K 40125 Forward fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Reaming question I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out on the group anyway. Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes. Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful look? Any thoughts? John Jessen 40328 HS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Subject: Re: Reaming question
FWIW, no sharp edges. A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a part, or the edge of a hole. Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jjessen(at)rcn.com writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out on the group anyway. Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes. Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful look? Any thoughts? John Jessen 40328 HS ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing Tips Don't Line Up
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I roughly checked my wingtip the other night and they are =BC" too short. Thank You Ray Doerr CDNI Principal Engineer Sprint PCS 16020 West 113th Street Lenexa, KS 66219 Mailstop KSLNXK0101 (913) 859-1414 (Office) (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) (913) 859-1234 (Fax) Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up I am attaching my wing tips and have all of the nutplates complete on one and the other drilled and clecoed. Neither of the wing tips line up with the ailerons in neutral position. I have clamped the ailerons in line with the flaps in full up position. The trailing edge of the right wing tip is about 1/2" lower than the trailing edge of the aileron. The trailing edge of the left wing tip is about 1/4" higher than the aileron. The trailing edges of the wing tips are about 1/4" - 3/8" too long. I can trim them without breaking the trailing edge joint. I cannot see any simple way of bending/aligning the wing tips except for perhaps cutting the trailing edge in half and reattaching them while trying to twist them into alignment. I would love to hear what others have done to deal with this. I really hope it is not bad parts cause I have put a lot of hours into these wingtips. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on QB Wing Tips ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Very minor parts shortage
Howdy Ray, Thanks for the comment. I did miss the note to "Do not install nutplate..." on page 44-2 Figure 1. Maybe that's why that one was harder to rivet in place. ;) The nutplate that I'm worried about is the one that goes between the center sections F1004A and F1004B (or F & H). Right exactly where the main spar goes. Do you really put one in that location? I looked at it with the wings on and there's almost no room for a nutplate or screw to come out the nutplate. But, the fairing is punched there. I just wanted to verify that the wings won't actually hit it. Since I did install one where I shouldn't have, I can easily just drill that one out. I'm betting, now that I look at it, that the reason for no nutplate in that 2nd to the last space is because once you put the bolt in for your flap linkage, I bet there would be interference as the flaps moved...or something like that. Anyway, that's an easy fix. Another funny thing is, that front skin support, F1099G-L... that one doesn't seem to get any form of attachment to the skin. Not only that, but on mine I don't think the skin actually even came up high enough to touch it. It must just be there to prevent some massive cave-in of the fairing. All of this is on page 44-2. Tim Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > > Tim I have slow build fuse and just riveted on these nutplates on the > bottom center skin this weekend. There are 9 nutplates on the bottom > center skin. One is aft of the rear spar attachment and then the next > one is forward of the rear spar with the last one between the center > section main spars. I beliebe the one you are referring to is right at > the rear spar. My instruction indicate that no nutplate is to be > installed in this position and my skin does not even have the holes for > it anyway. I think the earlier bottom skins had this drilled, but the > newer ones like mine do not. > > > > Thank You > Ray Doerr > CDNI Principal Engineer > Sprint PCS > 16020 West 113th Street > Lenexa, KS 66219 > Mailstop KSLNXK0101 > (913) 859-1414 (Office) > (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) > (913) 859-1234 (Fax) > Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:13 AM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage > > > I have slow wings, QB fuse. Last week when I went to do my wing root > fairings I found that I was around 40 K1100-08 nutplates short. > I had just closed my wings, and thus had also just installed > all of them on the wings and access panels, having just freshly > opened those hardware bags. Gus verified that the quantity listed in > the various kits does not add up, and he sent me 40 more, which > arrived very very quickly I must say, by USPS. > If you're in the same postion as me, with slow wings, and QB fuse, > you should check your count and get some when you talk to them > next. I think the quantity supplied with the fuse kit was something > like 22. Required are at least 9 on each bottom, 12 on each top, plus > I think 7 around the nose. I think there were a few others, too. > > On a side note, does anyone who's completed the fuse know what's up > with the one nutplate that is predrilled that goes on the bottom > skin in the middle of the center section, where the wing spar goes? > It sure seems like this nutplate, if installed, would scrape > the spar. Gus seemed to think it may have been a set of holes that > was drilled by accident that won't be used. Just looking > for confirmation. I left mine empty. > > Tim > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Reaming question
What type or brand of reamer is being used? Where did you purchase them? Steve 40212 --- LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote: > > FWIW, no sharp edges. > > A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would > apply to the edge of a part, > or the edge of a hole. > > Regards, > Jim Ayers > > In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific > Daylight Time, > jjessen(at)rcn.com writes: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" > > > I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted > to try this question out > on the group anyway. > > Working on the HS and am now at the stage of > deburring all my reamed holes. > Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing > so, and I don't really mind > it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but > am wondering if it's > necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying > glass and taken a careful > look? Any thoughts? > > John Jessen > 40328 HS > > > > > > __________________________________ Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: c <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Reaming question
Try mcmaster.com Thats where I bought mine. Chris #40072 -----Original Message----- From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question What type or brand of reamer is being used? Where did you purchase them? Steve 40212 --- LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote: > > FWIW, no sharp edges. > > A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would > apply to the edge of a part, > or the edge of a hole. > > Regards, > Jim Ayers > > In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific > Daylight Time, > jjessen(at)rcn.com writes: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" > > > I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted > to try this question out > on the group anyway. > > Working on the HS and am now at the stage of > deburring all my reamed holes. > Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing > so, and I don't really mind > it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but > am wondering if it's > necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying > glass and taken a careful > look? Any thoughts? > > John Jessen > 40328 HS > > > > > > __________________________________ Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Reaming question
Date: Oct 11, 2005
I don't have the reamers within reach right now, but they were purchased from Avery. #30 and #40. Description follows: CHUCKING REAMERS FOR PRE-PUNCHED HOLES #30 REAMER (.1280") Many kit manufacturers today are CNC match hole punching their kit parts,and recommend the builder open the holes up to the proper rivet hole size.One method is to ream the pre-punched holes to the correct size.Reamers give you a rounder,closer tolerance finished hole with less burrs around the holes, and can be used just like a drill bit. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question What type or brand of reamer is being used? Where did you purchase them? Steve 40212 --- LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote: > > FWIW, no sharp edges. > > A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of > a part, or the edge of a hole. > > Regards, > Jim Ayers > > In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > jjessen(at)rcn.com writes: > > --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Jessen" > > > I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this > question out on the group anyway. > > Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed > holes. > Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing > so, and I don't really mind > it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if > it's necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a > careful > look? Any thoughts? > > John Jessen > 40328 HS > > > > > > __________________________________ Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Reaming question
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Are you saying that the reamer is leaving the edge as if it were deburred? "No sharp edges" Or, that one must debur and not leave a sharp edge. The question is, if using a reamer, does one have to then follow with deburring? Or, does the reamer use a smooth enough edge / hole. John Jessen 40328 HS _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LessDragProd(at)aol.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Reaming question FWIW, no sharp edges. A 0.010 edge break is a "standard". This would apply to the edge of a part, or the edge of a hole. Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 10/11/2005 12:43:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jjessen(at)rcn.com writes: I looked at the past posts on reaming, but wanted to try this question out on the group anyway. Working on the HS and am now at the stage of deburring all my reamed holes. Do I need to debur if using a reamer? I'm doing so, and I don't really mind it since I have the Cogsdill and it goes fast, but am wondering if it's necessary. Has anyone gotten out a magnifying glass and taken a careful look? Any thoughts? John Jessen 40328 HS ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Very minor parts shortage
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Yes, you need the nutplate between the center section spars. This nutplate should not interfere because with the dihedral of wing, it should not hit, worst case, use a shorter screw. Thank You Ray Doerr CDNI Principal Engineer Sprint PCS 16020 West 113th Street Lenexa, KS 66219 Mailstop KSLNXK0101 (913) 859-1414 (Office) (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) (913) 859-1234 (Fax) Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage Howdy Ray, Thanks for the comment. I did miss the note to "Do not install nutplate..." on page 44-2 Figure 1. Maybe that's why that one was harder to rivet in place. ;) The nutplate that I'm worried about is the one that goes between the center sections F1004A and F1004B (or F & H). Right exactly where the main spar goes. Do you really put one in that location? I looked at it with the wings on and there's almost no room for a nutplate or screw to come out the nutplate. But, the fairing is punched there. I just wanted to verify that the wings won't actually hit it. Since I did install one where I shouldn't have, I can easily just drill that one out. I'm betting, now that I look at it, that the reason for no nutplate in that 2nd to the last space is because once you put the bolt in for your flap linkage, I bet there would be interference as the flaps moved...or something like that. Anyway, that's an easy fix. Another funny thing is, that front skin support, F1099G-L... that one doesn't seem to get any form of attachment to the skin. Not only that, but on mine I don't think the skin actually even came up high enough to touch it. It must just be there to prevent some massive cave-in of the fairing. All of this is on page 44-2. Tim Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > > Tim I have slow build fuse and just riveted on these nutplates on the > bottom center skin this weekend. There are 9 nutplates on the bottom > center skin. One is aft of the rear spar attachment and then the next > one is forward of the rear spar with the last one between the center > section main spars. I beliebe the one you are referring to is right at > the rear spar. My instruction indicate that no nutplate is to be > installed in this position and my skin does not even have the holes for > it anyway. I think the earlier bottom skins had this drilled, but the > newer ones like mine do not. > > > > Thank You > Ray Doerr > CDNI Principal Engineer > Sprint PCS > 16020 West 113th Street > Lenexa, KS 66219 > Mailstop KSLNXK0101 > (913) 859-1414 (Office) > (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) > (913) 859-1234 (Fax) > Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson > Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:13 AM > To: RV10 > Subject: RV10-List: Very minor parts shortage > > > I have slow wings, QB fuse. Last week when I went to do my wing root > fairings I found that I was around 40 K1100-08 nutplates short. > I had just closed my wings, and thus had also just installed > all of them on the wings and access panels, having just freshly > opened those hardware bags. Gus verified that the quantity listed in > the various kits does not add up, and he sent me 40 more, which > arrived very very quickly I must say, by USPS. > If you're in the same postion as me, with slow wings, and QB fuse, > you should check your count and get some when you talk to them > next. I think the quantity supplied with the fuse kit was something > like 22. Required are at least 9 on each bottom, 12 on each top, plus > I think 7 around the nose. I think there were a few others, too. > > On a side note, does anyone who's completed the fuse know what's up > with the one nutplate that is predrilled that goes on the bottom > skin in the middle of the center section, where the wing spar goes? > It sure seems like this nutplate, if installed, would scrape > the spar. Gus seemed to think it may have been a set of holes that > was drilled by accident that won't be used. Just looking > for confirmation. I left mine empty. > > Tim > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Wing Tips Don't Line Up
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Best way I have found in 3 planes built is to save the wing tips until the wings are on the fuse. Line up the flaps perfectly in trail and be sure they mate to your fuse as you expect, then be sure the ailerons to match the flaps (or adjust to make them match), then fit the wing tips to match the ailerons. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up I am attaching my wing tips and have all of the nutplates complete on one and the other drilled and clecoed. Neither of the wing tips line up with the ailerons in neutral position. I have clamped the ailerons in line with the flaps in full up position. The trailing edge of the right wing tip is about 1/2" lower than the trailing edge of the aileron. The trailing edge of the left wing tip is about 1/4" higher than the aileron. The trailing edges of the wing tips are about 1/4" - 3/8" too long. I can trim them without breaking the trailing edge joint. I cannot see any simple way of bending/aligning the wing tips except for perhaps cutting the trailing edge in half and reattaching them while trying to twist them into alignment. I would love to hear what others have done to deal with this. I really hope it is not bad parts cause I have put a lot of hours into these wingtips. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on QB Wing Tips ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
James, All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel. Email me off line for my phone number if you want to discuss and I can tell you a lot more than typing it. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Aileron trim
I was just looking at Vans site for their electric aileron trim and it appears that the servo is mounted inside the fuselage not the wing. Am I missing something here? "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" wrote: The Aerotrim unit requires you to cut a small square out of the control surface. It then sit's in that hole as a complete unit acting as the access plate. You then attach a small tab to the trailing edge of the control surface and the linkage then controls that. You would route the control wires out the back of the control surface into the aircraft. It is a very straight forward system when you want to add trim to an existing system that has no other option. For me the clean install of the Van's system inside the wing, moving the whole surface, is a better option. I may still consider Aerotrim for the rudder should the need arise. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Flaps --------------------------------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: RV10-List: Aileron trim Did your aileron trim require cutting into the aileron itself or does is move the entire roll control? Rick s. 40185 ========================================== Photoshare, and much ==================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 11, 2005
From: Mark Grieve <mark(at)macomb.com>
Subject: For your bookshelf
John Jessen wrote: > > > Ah well, I guess it's time for me to buy one of the standard aluminum > aircraft building books that gives the definitive answers to such > questions. Any suggestions as to the best out there? > > John Jessen > 40328 HS (and enjoying the learning as well as the doing) Standard Aircraft Handbook from Aero isbn 0-8306-8634-7 This is my favorite. Lots of information crammed into a compact book. Mark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "rv10builder" <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-10 Door Incident
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Anyone seen this? http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t3637 Yikes! Brian #40308 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: tail light LED combo
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Thought you might like to know; I visited perihelion's site from Tim's link and figured it would be nice to have this option.. Rob, I am now looking seriously at the LED strobe approach for a combo. Regards, Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge MA 01550-2705 (508) 764-2072 ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert G. <mailto:armywrights(at)adelphia.net> Wright Subject: tail LED Is there any way you guys can also make a combo tail strobe/LED position light? Rob Wright, RV-10 builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Elevator horn
Date: Oct 11, 2005
I was following an earlier tip of spraying primer into the steel tube portion of the elevator horn then swishing it around for coverage, when I had primer run out of the weld. I have very limited welding experience and wouldn't think a pinhole miss during the weld would be a big deal. Any comments on the integrity of the weld? Oh, got to see Vic and Carol Syracuse's -10 at the SERFI this past weekend at Evergreen, AL. I wasn't expecting to see a -10 there, so I was awesomely surprised, especially since my wife was there and she could finally see the end product of all my time out in the workshop. He's got a beautiful piece of workmanship. Rob Riveting elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: L Aune <lcaune(at)cablelan.net>
Subject: rv10 fuel senders
Date: Oct 11, 2005
Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site but I can't find that site. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
Hello Rick and James, sorry to put things here in a bit a different light, the servos are all the same from the dimension, however, they are different in torque they do supply (and Amps they use), so best thing is just to call/email them up and ask for the type you need for the aileron. br Werner Rick wrote: > >James, > >All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel. > >Email me off line for my phone number if you want to discuss and I can tell you a lot more than typing it. > >Rick S. >40185 >Fuselage > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
A bit more clarification. Trutrak has a series of servos to accomodate different aircraft. Additionally the servo for pitch is different than for roll. For the RV-10 they use Type C servos. Purchasing these with the install kits will allow you to defer the decision about which exact model of digital AP to go with. The servos would be different if you were building a Lancair IV. Bob -------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Wing order + components Hello Rick and James, sorry to put things here in a bit a different light, the servos are all the same from the dimension, however, they are different in torque they do supply (and Amps they use), so best thing is just to call/email them up and ask for the type you need for the aileron. br Werner Rick wrote: > >James, > >All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel. > >Email me off line for my phone number if you want to discuss and I can tell you a lot more than typing it. > >Rick S. >40185 >Fuselage > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Oct 12, 2005
Subject: RV-10 Door Incident
Just a note on RUSHING to put warning systems on your gull wing doors that are not closed completely. There are several warning systems on planes today that still are ignored every day.............landing gear, stall, etc. WHY do we still have planes land GEAR UP? Warning lites/horns are nice but is still comes down to PILOT error! Then you have to consider a MALFUNCTIONING warning system, weight, and more electrical wire/potential problems. Can we and should we put a WARNING system on everything in our plane? Would that eliminate all incidents! JMHO DEAN Just a note on RUSHING to put warning systems on your gull wing doors that are not closed completely. There are several warning systems on planes today that still are ignored every day.............landing gear, stall, etc. WHY do we still have planes land GEAR UP? Warning lites/horns are nice but is still comes down to PILOT error! Then you have to consider a MALFUNCTIONING warning system, weight, and more electrical wire/potential problems. Can we and should we put a WARNING system on everything in our plane? Would that eliminate all incidents! JMHO DEAN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elevator horn
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
I did this same thing and had the same "problem", I thought I would out think Vans and removed the powder coating to see what was missed, found that over 1/4" was not welded, so took it to the local welding shop, had them "fix it" and called Vans the next morning to report the problem. I was then told that this was designed this way according to the drawing they purposely do not weld that area on both Horns. The powder coating usually covers it, but we all have those gaps. Needless to say, I ordered a new horn, and I quit trying to outthink them. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright Subject: RV10-List: Elevator horn I was following an earlier tip of spraying primer into the steel tube portion of the elevator horn then swishing it around for coverage, when I had primer run out of the weld. I have very limited welding experience and wouldn't think a pinhole miss during the weld would be a big deal. Any comments on the integrity of the weld? Oh, got to see Vic and Carol Syracuse's -10 at the SERFI this past weekend at Evergreen, AL. I wasn't expecting to see a -10 there, so I was awesomely surprised, especially since my wife was there and she could finally see the end product of all my time out in the workshop. He's got a beautiful piece of workmanship. Rob Riveting elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Door Incident
Date: Oct 12, 2005
Hi all, Is it a good suggestion not to use a warning if the door in question suffers a catastrophic failure when not properly latched? I think the microswitch option suggested is a good one, but rather than wire it to a warning light, wire it into the starter circuit, no locked door is no start in that case. The only problem you have left then, is when the door unlatches in flight and the engine stalls at the same time, you would have to try to latch the door and then restart, on the other hand, if that all happens in that sequence you might want to vacate the aircraft whilst the door is open anyway........... ----- Original Message ----- From: ddddsp1(at)juno.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 1:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Door Incident Just a note on RUSHING to put warning systems on your gull wing doors that are not closed completely. There are several warning systems on planes today that still are ignored every day.............landing gear, stall, etc. WHY do we still have planes land GEAR UP? Warning lites/horns are nice but is still comes down to PILOT error! Then you have to consider a MALFUNCTIONING warning system, weight, and more electrical wire/potential problems. Can we and should we put a WARNING system on everything in our plane? Would that eliminate all incidents! JMHO DEAN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Door Incident
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com>
The gull wing doors on a Velocity usually won't depart in flight if one forgets to latch it due to a high pressure in the door region. Nonetheless, most builders position a microswitch such that the latching pin actuates it when it travels into the proper receiving hole. Velos drivers would never tie the door switch to the engine. Being a pusher, we taxi around with the gull doors open for au natural air conditioning. I have the door microswitches tied to a red light on the panel. No red lights allowed for takeoff. Chuck Do Not Archvie ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RV-10 Door Incident
Date: Oct 12, 2005
The problem with this is that if you are sitting in the sun on a nice Florida summer day (or any summer day, for that matter), you don't want to latch yourself in before spinning that starter. You don't want to latch the doors until you are ready to taxi at the earliest, and usually not until you are ready to enter the runway. Further, after you land, you will want to open the doors while you are taxiing as well. Linking the doors to the starter switch would be a big "NO-NO" in my book. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAS Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Door Incident Hi all, Is it a good suggestion not to use a warning if the door in question suffers a catastrophic failure when not properly latched? I think the microswitch option suggested is a good one, but rather than wire it to a warning light, wire it into the starter circuit, no locked door is no start in that case. The only problem you have left then, is when the door unlatches in flight and the engine stalls at the same time, you would have to try to latch the door and then restart, on the other hand, if that all happens in that sequence you might want to vacate the aircraft whilst the door is open anyway........... ----- Original Message ----- From: ddddsp1(at)juno.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Door Incident Just a note on RUSHING to put warning systems on your gull wing doors that are not closed completely. There are several warning systems on planes today that still are ignored every day.............landing gear, stall, etc. WHY do we still have planes land GEAR UP? Warning lites/horns are nice but is still comes down to PILOT error! Then you have to consider a MALFUNCTIONING warning system, weight, and more electrical wire/potential problems. Can we and should we put a WARNING system on everything in our plane? Would that eliminate all incidents! JMHO DEAN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wing order + components
Good point Werner, I did kinda lump that together in a whiz bang statement. I should have said it didn't matter which control head (in the digital models) all the servos for the RV-10 were the same were the same. Best bet like Werner said is to write or talk to your dealer for the inside scoop. For all you working on other than the fuselage, if your uncomfortable with 470 rivets ya better get over it!!! Lots of them on the Fuse. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: snap bushings...
Hi all, I just had a snap bushing pop out of the hole on my horizontal stabilizer... having blindly followed the plans, the snap bushing is now rolling around in between the nose ribs where I will never be able to pull it out (well I can probably grab it with some needle nosed pliers and pull it out in peices) or put it back into place. Looking at the bushings that are supposed to go into the elevators, it looks like the plans call them out the same way... it seems like they are supposed to be installed in the direction that you would not be able to remove them once the part is closed up. Is there a reason for this? I don't see why for all the future ones I have to do I couldn't install them facing the other way so that they can be removed or replaced without dropping them into the part... or am I missing something here? thanks, James #40400 - elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Counter sinking - just how much really to get a good fit
Date: Oct 12, 2005
Well, let's see if we can bury this topic. As such, this is a long post. Last night I took a careful look at the countersinking. Some were cockeyed, that is, they were not uniformly round and thus might have blocked a good fit. Some weren't countersunk enough. Some weren't countersunk at all (how I missed 3 holes entirely I thought would be beyond me, but apparently not...don't work too late into the night may be the moral). So, I fixed all this and made them all uniformly a wee bit deeper. Then I refit the piece. Fit fine. However, I think I may have actually not done it correctly. This morning I was catching up on the RV mail bag and found a whole discussion on countersinking. Would have answered all my questions at once (and by the way, thanks for the information on what books to buy...they are ordered) had I been up-to-date in my reading! For those who do not subscribe or read the general RV Matronics list, I've copied the conversation here so we can have it on file and others who are just on this list can search on the topic and be done with it. I think the discussion was a good one. (I've removed some of the material to make it shorter, but none of the good stuff.) There was more discussion that followed what I've copied here, but I'll ask that you go to the Matronics RV site for yourself to read the rest. The basics are below. Three links that might be helpful and/or informative, one to the Matronics RV site with the follow-on discussions, one to a university / government publication mentioned in the follow on discussion, and one to Scott Bilinski's work on the strength of rivets set incorrectly, which I found very informative. <http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2005-10-07.html> http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list/Digest.RV-List.2005-10-07.html <http://www.tech.purdue.edu/at/courses/at308/Technical_Links/MMPDS/OptionsMe nu.pdf> http://www.tech.purdue.edu/at/courses/at308/Technical_Links/MMPDS/OptionsMen u.pdf <http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/marvelrivets.html> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/rvlinks/marvelrivets.html Thanks for you patience and help John Jessen 40328 HS ========== From: Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com> Subject: RV-List: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces --> RV-List message posted by: Dan Charrois Hi everyone. I'm just getting started on an RV-10 project and practiced riveting a bit on scrap material first last night. And I've run into a couple of problems/questions that I'm sure at least some of you have had, but I couldn't find anything in a search of the archives. First question - riveting two dimpled surfaces together: I've seen all kinds of resources saying that a rivet is set properly if the shop head is at least 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet and has a height of 0.5 times the diameter. That's fine and straightforward when riveting two flat (non-dimpled) pieces. But when measuring the shop head height formed against the back side of a dimpled piece, is the shop height measured as the amount the back of the rivet extends from the maximum height of the dimple, or from the amount the rivet extends from the non-dimpled surface? (not sure if I'm explaining this clearly, but hopefully you can get what I mean) If the shop head height is measured from the surrounding non-dimpled surface, I suspect that it may not be thick enough since some of the rivet that would normally be formed in a shop head on flat surfaces would be within the dimple itself and wouldn't contribute to the head. If it's measured from the "crown" of the dimple, it would seem as though the rivet would need to be a bit longer (by an amount equal to the depth of the dimple) to form the same size of shop head as if it were on undimpled material. But I haven't seen any references in the reading I've done indicating that the rivets made to join two dimpled surfaces should be longer than if the shop head is to form on an undimpled surface. Second question - countersinking to receive a dimpled surface:I read that when countersinking to receive a dimpled surface, it should be drilled about 0.005" deeper than if the countersink was to just receive the head of a flush rivet, so that the dimple will fit properly into the countersink. But in the test pieces I was trying to join, I had to drill substantially deeper than this so that the dimple would fit within the countersink to allow the pieces to lay flush against each other. And I don't want to have "loose" holes by drilling the countersink deeper than necessary. It seemed to be due to the underside of the dimple (the part formed by the female die) starting out with a larger diameter than the starting diameter of the countersunk hole when the hole was drilled to 0.005" deeper than required to receive the head of the flush rivet. And I'm pretty sure that I used the same size countersink bit as dimple die - of course, I could have made a mistake, but the pilot/guide of both the countersink bit and dimple die fit perfectly into the hole that I had drilled. Does anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong? Am I dimpling too deep or something? I was under the impression that I had to press the dimple die so that the flat surface of the die was flush with the flat surface of the surrounding metal, but I presume that if I dimple less it may fit within the countersink better. In either case, a flush rivet seems to fit very nicely on the surface of the dimple as it is, and if I dimple less, it may protrude a bit out. I've also found that even when riveting flat sheets together, the range of the shop head being hit or squeezed enough to have a large enough diameter while not too much that it ends up too thin is very small - smaller than I anticipated. I'm sure I'll get used to exactly the right amount with practice, but does anyone else find it to be this way? In any case, I'm glad that I decided to try practicing a bit first before getting into the real construction. And lastly, I've read in the archives that some people prefer to drill a hole slightly smaller than required when dimpling a skin (using a #41 instead of #40, for example), since the hole will expand slightly while dimpling. Is this just being overzealous, or is there a good case to be made for this? I'm thinking that if the hole were slightly smaller, the rivet would expand a bit less while filling the hole, leaving a bit more material for the shop head, making the tolerances for setting it just the right amount a bit less fine. Any advice that anyone can provide to a beginner like myself? Thanks! Dan -- Syzygy Research & Technology Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________ Message 15 _________________________________ From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > when measuring the shop head height formed against the back side of a > dimpled piece, is the shop height measured as the amount the back of > the rivet extends from the maximum height of the dimple, or from the > amount the rivet extends from the non-dimpled surface? (not sure if Measure the shop head height *not including* the height of the dimple. Pick up a copy of "Aircraft Sheet Metal." Great book! Also keep in mind that there is a *range* of acceptable dimensions for rivet heads. <http://images.rvproject.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf> http://images.rvproject.com/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf Take a peek at that Mil-Spec for reference. > drilled. Does anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong? Am I > dimpling too deep or something? I was under the impression that I You're not doing anything wrong. Just countersink deep enough to get a good FIT, without "bottoming out" through the material. Kitplanes magazine is running a series called "Build Your Skills," and in the 4th and 5th installments it goes into gory detail about dimpling and countersinking. > had to press the dimple die so that the flat surface of the die was > flush with the flat surface of the surrounding metal, but I presume > that if I dimple less it may fit within the countersink better. In Don't dimple "less." Whack the crap out of it and get yourself a nice crisp dimple. > I've also found that even when riveting flat sheets together, the > range of the shop head being hit or squeezed enough to have a large > enough diameter while not too much that it ends up too thin is very > small - smaller than I anticipated. I'm sure I'll get used to > exactly the right amount with practice, but does anyone else find it > to be this way? In any case, I'm glad that I decided to try > practicing a bit first before getting into the real construction. Again, reference that Mil-Spec link above. Sometimes you just have to "average" it out. There is a range of acceptable dimensions, and if I recall, the height dimension varies based on tension or shear (I could be mistaken about that). > And lastly, I've read in the archives that some people prefer to > drill a hole slightly smaller than required when dimpling a skin > (using a #41 instead of #40, for example), since the hole will expand > slightly while dimpling. Is this just being overzealous, or is there > a good case to be made for this? I'm thinking that if the hole were I'm sure people will argue one way or the other, but why not do what the kit manufacturer recommends, which is to use a #40 drill? Keep it simple. Don't overthink this stuff. You're building a light airplane, not the space shuttle or a Swiss watch. ;-) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D <http://www.rvproject.com/> http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 16 _________________________________ From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> Subject: Re: RV-List: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces --> RV-List message posted by: PJ Seipel Dan, 1) Measure from the top of the dimple. The rivet doesn't need to be longer. On the RV-10 Vans does a pretty decent job of calling out the right size rivets. 2) Countersink deep enough that the dimple sits flush in the countersink after you rivet it. It's probably going to be more than .005". 3) With practice you'll be able to look at them and tell if they're good. I've been told that it's better to have them a bit flat than under-driven. 4) I don't have experience with drilling a smaller hole, but there are thousands of RV's flying who's builders didn't drill undersize holes, so I doubt it's necessary. PJ 40032 ________________________________ Message 17 _________________________________ From: "D.Bristol" <dbris200(at)sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces --> RV-List message posted by: "D.Bristol" Be careful here. With a quality dimpling die, the under side of a dimpled hole is the same size as the top. You can see this when you put 2 dimpled sheets together - they fit just fine. However, when fitting the dimpled sheet into a countersunk piece you can have a problem with fit because the edge of the countersunk hole is sharp and the corresponding point on the bottom of the dimple is not, (quality "spring back" dies may give a sharper transition than cheap dies) especially if you didn't use enough force when forming the dimple. Also, dimpling can distort the sheet of aluminum making it look like the dimple/countersink is a poor fit. It's very easy to make the countersunk hole too big, trying to compensate for this miss fit and then you've got a mess. In theory at least, the countersunk hole should fit the rivet. Don't arbitrarily make it bigger, figure out why it doesn't fit and fix it Dave Bristol, -6 So Cal EAA Technical Counselor ________________________________ Message 18 _________________________________ From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7(at)b4.ca> Subject: Re: RV-List: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" On 18:57:18 2005-10-06 "D.Bristol" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "D.Bristol" > Be careful here. With a quality dimpling die, the under side of a > dimpled hole is the same size as the top. You can see this when you > put 2 dimpled sheets together - they fit just fine. However, when > fitting the dimpled sheet into a countersunk piece you can have a > problem with fit because the edge of the countersunk hole is sharp > and the corresponding point on the bottom of the dimple is not, > (quality "spring back" dies may give a sharper transition than cheap > dies) especially if you didn't use enough force when forming the > dimple. The engineer in me must speak up: A countersunk hole will always have a sharp transition at the top corner, unless you remove it. A dimpled piece of aluminum will always have a rounded (or filleted) corner in the corresponding location. This means you will end up with one of two situations: One, you can countersink until the skin sits flat, in which case there will be an air gap under the dimpled skin in the "cone" of the countersink. You don't want this. It's not as strong a joint, and can lead to corrosion in the cavities, well beyond where you can see it happening. Two, you can countersink to fit the rivet, in which case the skin will *not* sit flat in the countersink. This is not a problem, if your dimple is good. When you drive the rivet it will drive that rounded corner into a sharp one and it will all become flush. This is what you want. So: Countersink only far enough to fit the head of the rivet. There's no reason to go further As for drilling a smaller hole so everything is "tighter", the engineer in me says you will end up with a smaller diameter of "meat" in the hole once the rivet is driven. This means that every rivet joint will be slightly less strong than it was designed to be. Which means your airplane is slightly less strong than it was designed to be. Why would you want that? Stop second-guessing the designer. -Rob ________________________________ Message 19 _________________________________ From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan(at)rvproject.com> Subject: Re: RV-List: Properly setting rivets with dimpled surfaces --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Remind me tomorrow to put an AN426AD3-x rivet in my female dimple die. I honestly haven't even tried that yet...but I intend to! I wonder if the rivet will sit flush or sit low. My $.02 bet is that it will sit low. I'll try to remember to check it out tomorrow... Also, there is a distinction between "spring back" dimple dies and the regular flavor. The end result is supposed to be the same but it may not be. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D <http://www.rvproject.com/> http://www.rvproject.com _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Subject: Re: RV10-List: Counter sinking - just how much really to get a good fit You can deepen them a bit more just watch out for the hole enlarging and really making a mess of the countersink and hole. I think you will find that when you rivet the skins to the flange everything will suck up tight in the assembly. Get ready to rivet and see what happens, if it still sits high drill it out and deepen the countersink, I had several areas like this and it worked out OK as I riveted. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: snap bushings...
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Easier solution is to put a dab of E6000 on them to hold them tight. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Wing assembly -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: snap bushings... Hi all, I just had a snap bushing pop out of the hole on my horizontal stabilizer... having blindly followed the plans, the snap bushing is now rolling around in between the nose ribs where I will never be able to pull it out (well I can probably grab it with some needle nosed pliers and pull it out in peices) or put it back into place. Looking at the bushings that are supposed to go into the elevators, it looks like the plans call them out the same way... it seems like they are supposed to be installed in the direction that you would not be able to remove them once the part is closed up. Is there a reason for this? I don't see why for all the future ones I have to do I couldn't install them facing the other way so that they can be removed or replaced without dropping them into the part... or am I missing something here? thanks, James #40400 - elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: snap bushings...
Date: Oct 12, 2005
So, should we all be "cementing" snap bushings in place? Should this be standard practice? John Jessen 40328 HS _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Subject: RE: RV10-List: snap bushings... Easier solution is to put a dab of E6000 on them to hold them tight. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Wing assembly -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: snap bushings... Hi all, I just had a snap bushing pop out of the hole on my horizontal stabilizer... having blindly followed the plans, the snap bushing is now rolling around in between the nose ribs where I will never be able to pull it out (well I can probably grab it with some needle nosed pliers and pull it out in peices) or put it back into place. Looking at the bushings that are supposed to go into the elevators, it looks like the plans call them out the same way... it seems like they are supposed to be installed in the direction that you would not be able to remove them once the part is closed up. Is there a reason for this? I don't see why for all the future ones I have to do I couldn't install them facing the other way so that they can be removed or replaced without dropping them into the part... or am I missing something here? thanks, James #40400 - elevators ==================================== RV10-List Email Forum - more: bsp; ==================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Re: snap bushings...
Hrm, just to be clear, this is the plastic snap bushings that the elevator trim cables go through. Is there a reason that they point in the direction they do on the plans? Thanks, James JOHN STARN wrote: > Not sure of the area but to work loose "metal" items to an open hole, > use a strong magnet on the outside (magnet will not stick to > aluminum) to drag the part over to the opening. It's works on washers, > screws etc on HRII N561FS so it should work on -10's too. KABONG Do > Not Archive > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* RV Builder (Michael Sausen) > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 12, 2005 11:53 AM > *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: snap bushings... > > Easier solution is to put a dab of E6000 on them to hold them tight. > > Michael Sausen > -10 #352 Wing assembly > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs > Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 11:42 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: snap bushings... > > > Hi all, > > I just had a snap bushing pop out of the hole on my horizontal > stabilizer... having blindly followed the plans, the snap bushing > is now rolling around in between the nose ribs where I will never > be able to pull it out (well I can probably grab it with some > needle nosed pliers and pull it out in peices) or put it back > into place. > > Looking at the bushings that are supposed to go into the > elevators, it looks like the plans call them out the same way... > it seems like they are supposed to be installed in the direction > that you would not be able to remove them once the part is closed > up. Is there a reason for this? > I don't see why for all the future ones I have to do I couldn't > install them facing the other way so that they can be removed or > replaced without dropping them into the part... or am I missing > something here? > > thanks, > James > #40400 - elevators > > > ==================================== > RV10-List Email Forum - > more: > bsp; > ==================================== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Wing Tips Don't Line Up
Date: Oct 12, 2005
Thanks for this idea. Unfortunately I have already drilled the wingtips in place and on one of them have the nutplates attached. I think I will either have to bend the tips with heat or cut the trailing edges and re-epoxy them. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on wing tips _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up Best way I have found in 3 planes built is to save the wing tips until the wings are on the fuse. Line up the flaps perfectly in trail and be sure they mate to your fuse as you expect, then be sure the ailerons to match the flaps (or adjust to make them match), then fit the wing tips to match the ailerons. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up I am attaching my wing tips and have all of the nutplates complete on one and the other drilled and clecoed. Neither of the wing tips line up with the ailerons in neutral position. I have clamped the ailerons in line with the flaps in full up position. The trailing edge of the right wing tip is about 1/2" lower than the trailing edge of the aileron. The trailing edge of the left wing tip is about 1/4" higher than the aileron. The trailing edges of the wing tips are about 1/4" - 3/8" too long. I can trim them without breaking the trailing edge joint. I cannot see any simple way of bending/aligning the wing tips except for perhaps cutting the trailing edge in half and reattaching them while trying to twist them into alignment. I would love to hear what others have done to deal with this. I really hope it is not bad parts cause I have put a lot of hours into these wingtips. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on QB Wing Tips ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-10 Door Incident
If you have installed the AF-2500 engine monitor you have digital inputs that can be used for the door switch. The system allows you to select a Prop RPM that will activate the verbal "CHECK CANOPY LATCH" and a screen warning if the input is not made. This will enable you to taxi out with the doors open and if don't get the doors shut you will get a warning on the run-up. Red LEDS might work fine if you look at them before take off, for me I want a verbal warning in the headset as I advanced the throttle. You should use 4 switches all wired in series. On the next software release we will add the option of a verbal warning "CHECK DOOR LATCH". Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Oct 12, 2005
Subject: Re: RV-10 Door Incident
In a message dated 10/12/2005 3:06:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, n8vim(at)arrl.net writes: How many "extra" inputs are there? It would be cool to have "Check CoPilot Door...." or "Check Pilot Door...." so you don't ask your passenger to fiddle with the door if the problem is the pilots door... We have 4 digital inputs. That is a great idea, I will add both of the messages to the software. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems RV-4 N401RH (Flying) RV-10 N402RH (Elevators finally finished) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: snap bushings...
Date: Oct 13, 2005
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
James, I had finished the HS and poked my fingers through the rib holes to ensure the bushings were secure. I felt one had 'worked loose' and gave it a gentle push to re-seat it - only to find it was already seated properly and in fact I pushed it out of the hole ;-<. I then had your problem of a bushing rolling around between the ribs. After much dicking around with a pair of needle nose pliers and not being able to extract it, I removed the inboard most nose rib. I think there are are about 7 rivets to remove and the rib is very easy to reinstall. The job took me about 10 minutes total. cheers Ron Fuse. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: RV10-List: snap bushings... Hi all, I just had a snap bushing pop out of the hole on my horizontal stabilizer... having blindly followed the plans, the snap bushing is now rolling around in between the nose ribs where I will never be able to pull it out (well I can probably grab it with some needle nosed pliers and pull it out in peices) or put it back into place. Looking at the bushings that are supposed to go into the elevators, it looks like the plans call them out the same way... it seems like they are supposed to be installed in the direction that you would not be able to remove them once the part is closed up. Is there a reason for this? I don't see why for all the future ones I have to do I couldn't install them facing the other way so that they can be removed or replaced without dropping them into the part... or am I missing something here? thanks, James #40400 - elevators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: solder or crimp??
Date: Oct 12, 2005
How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work hardening vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about $44 for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because there will be many more D-Sub connectors. Paul Hahn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: solder or crimp??
I took the easy route and went with Stein's harness. It's put together very nicely. Worth the $time$ saved in my opinion. <http://www.steinair.com/trutrak.htm> -Sean #40303 (wing rear spars) eagerlee wrote: > > > How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub > connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that > soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat > hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work hardening > vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated > aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about $44 > for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per > plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because > there will be many more D-Sub connectors. > > Paul Hahn > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: solder or crimp??
Date: Oct 12, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
I used crimped connections. Bob -------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: solder or crimp?? How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work hardening vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about $44 for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because there will be many more D-Sub connectors. Paul Hahn ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: solder or crimp??
Date: Oct 12, 2005
definitely crimp them. Try http://www.affordablepanels.com/ or http://www.steinair.com/ for better prices on the connectors, sockets, and tool. I spoke to TT about the fact that I was just pitching their solder cup connector and they agreed that they probably ought to provide the crimp connectors. They have apparently not followed through yet. ----- Original Message ----- From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> Subject: RV10-List: solder or crimp?? > > > How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub > connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that > soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat > hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work > hardening > vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated > aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about > $44 > for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per > plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because > there will be many more D-Sub connectors. > > Paul Hahn > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: RV-10 Door Incident
Date: Oct 12, 2005
Simple always seems to work, how about VELCRO. Bob K ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: rv10 fuel senders
Date: Oct 13, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
We got some custom capacitive probes from SkySports. (8 inches bendable, 8 inches measuring, which we bent into an 'S' shape to get most of the tank. We haven't tested them yet, but we will let people know how they work. Skysports will make custom lengths for about $75 or $80 each - not bad. They will also customize the output circuit as needed for your favorite EFIS, engine system, etc. (0-5 volts, x-y Ohms, etc) TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of L Aune Subject: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site but I can't find that site. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: solder or crimp??
I soldered mine but then again I have a lot of experience soldering cup/wire assemblies. The key as Linn wrote is to get the cup filled and a nice fillet of solder that just starts into the strands and not up into the insulation. There used to be a tool available for all you tool nuts that looked like a tweezers clamp. It had the shape of the insulation and wires milled on the inside halves and you would clamp it onto the wire then inset the wire into the cup and solder away. I think the USAF called it an anti wicking tool. On the older analog bomb racks this was how all the relay connections were made. Those racks took a beating and I never saw too many wire failures but the method was a bunch more work than crimping pins and inserting them into a rubber connector. The top of the relay had all the pin cups sticking out of it, I never did figure out why a cannon type connection was never developed to make the change a quick and easy one. After the wires were assembled they were tied and the wires were "potted". This involved wrapping tape around the connector to form a dam then the potting material was poured into the dam and it filled the gap between all the wires and sealed the connector as well as providing strain relief. I never replace a connector because of wire failure it was because the part failed. As in the old days I potted my connection with RTV, and I am using Dacron to tie my wire bundles where it is not an access issue. There is something about a hand tied and laced bundle of wires that says craftsmanship. FWIW I only soldered my servo end of the harness, I bought crimp connectors for the fuselage end. I would not even soldered mine but since I had the pins and the time, what the heck. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2005
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Trutrak servo install
If you wait to install the servo until after the bottom skins are installed, be sure to attach the db9 connector first as it can't be screwed on (or off) with the servo in place. There was no "safety wire" shown for the installation bolts. Is that a problem? Jay 40011 From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> Subject: Re: Wing order + components Rick wrote: James, All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel. __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trutrak servo install
Date: Oct 13, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
In my mind not having the bolts safetied is an issue. Every other bolt in the plane either has a locking nut, nut plate, safety wire or cotter pin - why wouldn't you use drilled head bolts and safety wire them? Bob -------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Trutrak servo install If you wait to install the servo until after the bottom skins are installed, be sure to attach the db9 connector first as it can't be screwed on (or off) with the servo in place. There was no "safety wire" shown for the installation bolts. Is that a problem? Jay 40011 From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> Subject: Re: Wing order + components Rick wrote: James, All the trutrak servos are the same, it goes easily in the right wing with the supplied brackets. I picked mine up from Less Drag products but there are other dealers, his service and the ability to buy just one servo at a time was cool. Sit down before you read the price though. I need some more info on Vans roll trim. My wings are done and wired so I'm in no hurry to add my roll trim just yet but it looks easy to install on the inboard access panel. __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: solder or crimp??
Date: Oct 13, 2005
I second this. We went with as many wiring harnesses as were available. Stein's harness is great. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: solder or crimp?? I took the easy route and went with Stein's harness. It's put together very nicely. Worth the $time$ saved in my opinion. <http://www.steinair.com/trutrak.htm> -Sean #40303 (wing rear spars) eagerlee wrote: > > > How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub > connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that > soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat > hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work hardening > vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated > aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about $44 > for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per > plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because > there will be many more D-Sub connectors. > > Paul Hahn > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: rv10 fuel senders
Date: Oct 13, 2005
Do these probes mount on the baffle? Are they built specifically for the 10? I looked into these awhile ago, and wondered how the mount works out. Thoughts? cj wings #40410 -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders We got some custom capacitive probes from SkySports. (8 inches bendable, 8 inches measuring, which we bent into an 'S' shape to get most of the tank. We haven't tested them yet, but we will let people know how they work. Skysports will make custom lengths for about $75 or $80 each - not bad. They will also customize the output circuit as needed for your favorite EFIS, engine system, etc. (0-5 volts, x-y Ohms, etc) TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of L Aune Subject: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site but I can't find that site. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: rv10 fuel senders
Date: Oct 13, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
That probe mount configuration is an industry standard, so they bolt right on. The 8 inch/8 inch length was our spec to fit in the first chamber of the RV-10 tank. If you were starting early enough, you could maybe use a longer probe diagonally through the entire length of the tank. You'd have to feed it through the structural ribs without touching. TDT ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders Do these probes mount on the baffle? Are they built specifically for the 10? I looked into these awhile ago, and wondered how the mount works out. Thoughts? cj wings #40410 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders We got some custom capacitive probes from SkySports. (8 inches bendable, 8 inches measuring, which we bent into an 'S' shape to get most of the tank. We haven't tested them yet, but we will let people know how they work. Skysports will make custom lengths for about $75 or $80 each - not bad. They will also customize the output circuit as needed for your favorite EFIS, engine system, etc. (0-5 volts, x-y Ohms, etc) TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of L Aune Subject: RV10-List: rv10 fuel senders Does anyone have any information on capacitive fuel systems for the RV10. I'm sure I saw a mention of it on someone's construction site but I can't find that site. RV10-List Email Forum - bsp; ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 13, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Mount Clearance issue
Tim, I have done welding, and know a few very experienced welders. In short, Don't trust a local welder; There are too many variables in the welding process (even the humidity or the rate that the weld cools have a *big* effect on the quality) I'd also do an eddy current test (if you can borrow the equipment, and the knowledge of how to do it) to detect microscopic cracks. But that's just me. -Jim 40384 Tim Olson wrote: > > I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at > least a few parties that this applies to. > > I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the > rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between > 1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and > a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply: > > ------- > > Tim, > > I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to > the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself > or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger > clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it. > > > Bruce Reynolds > brucer(at)vansaircraft.com > > -------- > > So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very > glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a > weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Engine fittings
Date: Oct 13, 2005
Can someone look at the picture of my C4B5 and tell me what fitting is what. In particular, the one fwd of the brass oil temp sensor (behind the sensor in the pic) and the fitting below the R/H mag pointing to the right. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: FW: tail LED
Date: Oct 13, 2005
More info on a possible forthcoming combo LED tail light/strobe Rob Wright _____ From: Eric M. Jones [mailto:emjones(at)charter.net] Subject: Re: tail LED Rob, You have my permission to repost anything of mine you like. Since many customers don't like my "Buy the Whelen then throw away the inside$" approach. I plan to build the whole thing along the lines of the attached (without the xenon flash tube). One big advantage is that there is no HV wiring and no big power supply box. The "Other Brand" LED position lights being touted are certainly wrong photometrically. See my website: http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/aircraft_beacons_using_leds.pdf http://www.periheliondesign.com/downloads/redandgreenledpositionlights.pdf Regards, Eric M. Jones www.PerihelionDesign.com 113 Brentwood Drive Southbridge MA 01550-2705 (508) 764-2072 ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert <mailto:armywrights(at)adelphia.net> G. Wright Subject: RE: tail LED ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Elongated hole
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Folks, I know this has been discussed before, but my search came up with examples not quite the same. So, am asking anew. The part is one of the nose ribs for the HS. Using the pneumatic squeezer, working too quickly, I punched a hole next to one that I was trying to dimple. It was so close to the original hole that it made a bigger hole, about 3/8 inch, but oblong in shape. Any suggestions as what to do? An oops rivets could not fill it if I were to drill it out. The picture shows the elongated hole in the foreground, with a correctly dimpled hole on the other side of the nose rib in the background. John Jessen 40328 HS (Finally made up my mind and ordered the SB wings today) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Elongated Hole - 2
Date: Oct 14, 2005
This view might be better. John Jessen 40328 HS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Elongated hole
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Replace the rib. Paul Walter ----- Original Message ----- From: John Jessen To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 6:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: Elongated hole Folks, I know this has been discussed before, but my search came up with examples not quite the same. So, am asking anew. The part is one of the nose ribs for the HS. Using the pneumatic squeezer, working too quickly, I punched a hole next to one that I was trying to dimple. It was so close to the original hole that it made a bigger hole, about 3/8 inch, but oblong in shape. Any suggestions as what to do? An oops rivets could not fill it if I were to drill it out. The picture shows the elongated hole in the foreground, with a correctly dimpled hole on the other side of the nose rib in the background. John Jessen 40328 HS (Finally made up my mind and ordered the SB wings today) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Elongated Hole - 2
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
John, I'd probably flatten it, ream it out round to remove and potential sharp corners, make a new tab to be used as a doubler, and and rivet the two pieces together with #4 c/s rivets clear of the hole that needs to be drilled to mate the tab to the skin, and finally dimple. I don't know how much room you have on the tab but there might be enough room for an extra rivet or two to hold the doubler in place. Of course if you have access to a lathe and liquid nitrogen, there is a more fun fix. You could enlarge the hole to say 0.375" dia round cleaning up all the damage, machine a hat crossection freeze plug with a small diameter of .379" x skin thickness and a lip of .400", dip it in LN2, and install the plug in the hole. When it warms up, it will never come out and the hole would be filled. The larger diameter side goes on the opposite mating surface so it doesn't interfere with the parts you're riveting together. You can then machine countersink in the freeze plug if you made it thick enough. It works in .032"-.125 767 skins. Don't know about .016 or .020 skin though... Good luck! Jeremy ________________________________ From: John Jessen [mailto:jjessen(at)rcn.com] Subject: RV10-List: Elongated Hole - 2 This view might be better. John Jessen 40328 HS ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: Dave Lammers <lammers.david(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: Re: Elongated Hole - 2
John, I'd flatten the hole--then rivet a patch on the backside--then start all over. It is not a real critical area--nor is it seen by anyone. Dave Lammers HS John Jessen wrote: > This view might be better. > > John Jessen > 40328 HS > > Text inserted by Panda Platinum 2005 Internet Security: > > This message has NOT been classified as spam. 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fWhsbVxZr2NyI4nUICdzscAYwMfqKf8AaGdC6KswbgbDxkfSqD/8g+5+h/mtO0bpD/vf4U29 EyEya1tD5zyFctgsPY9Dz9DVSayLyszIXz0PStdOo/H+dVbn/XH6CnEZ/9k= ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: solder or crimp??
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: "Millsap, Dennis" <MILLSAPD(at)mail.ecu.edu>
In the "For what it's worth department".... I'm a lurker on the list, but I couldn't let this one go by because of all the frustrations I'm having right now with my -6. I crimped all of the connections for my electric trim. But, lately I've had a series of "ghosts" in the trim wiring. I've decided that it was my faulty connections. As you all know, the wiring from the Mac Servos is tiny! So, now I am going back through every connection and soldering everything. I'm sure I'll get shot at about my crimping tool or some other thing, but I haven't had an issue anywhere else. I've got about 500 hours on my RV-6A now and this one maintenance issue has caused me more headaches than anything else. I will be soldering most if not all of the connections on the RV-10 and I will pay a lot of attention to strain relief. Again, just FWIW. Dennis W. Millsap N464DM, RV-6A Diceman ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Reaming Flap Bracket
For those with the slow build wings, I need to ream the 3/8 hole in the flap brackets. As this is probably the only place I'll need a 3/8 reamer, has anyone used something else? Has anyone tried a Unibit from each side? Just looking for other options before ordering a "one use" reamer. Thanks, Sean #40303 (wing top skins) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Reaming Flap Bracket
I used a unibit in a drill press from each side. Worked out great and looks good. -Jim 40384 Sean Stephens wrote: > > For those with the slow build wings, I need to ream the 3/8 hole in > the flap brackets. As this is probably the only place I'll need a 3/8 > reamer, has anyone used something else? Has anyone tried a Unibit > from each side? > > Just looking for other options before ordering a "one use" reamer. > > Thanks, > > Sean #40303 (wing top skins) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Reaming Flap Bracket
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Sean, Myself, and another at my location will be doing SB wings. If you don't find a solution, buy the reamer, then I'll buy it from you, plus shipping. It'll be the floating reamer. Or, check with your local EAA chapter. They may have such a tool. John Jessen 40328 HS (hoping to get it mounted on the mantel this weekend) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: RV10-List: Reaming Flap Bracket For those with the slow build wings, I need to ream the 3/8 hole in the flap brackets. As this is probably the only place I'll need a 3/8 reamer, has anyone used something else? Has anyone tried a Unibit from each side? Just looking for other options before ordering a "one use" reamer. Thanks, Sean #40303 (wing top skins) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Reaming Flap Bracket
I just passed the 3/8 bit through the hole while on the drill press. I then pressed the bushing into the horn (wait until after the bottom skins are on) with a C-clamp and a socket to allow the bushing to center...not big deal easily done no need to ream on mine. The bushng has to be pressed into place. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Elongated hole
John, cut off the tab flush with the rib web, then fabricate a new tab the same width as the old one but with about 3/4 " extra material (length), bend the tab into an L shape, rivet it to the rib web (2 rivets should do), match drill and dimple the new tab. Deems Davis # 406 Wing Main Spar http://deemsrv10.com/ John Jessen wrote: > Folks, I know this has been discussed before, but my search came up > with examples not quite the same. So, am asking anew. > > The part is one of the nose ribs for the HS. Using the pneumatic > squeezer, working too quickly, I punched a hole next to one that I was > trying to dimple. It was so close to the original hole that it made a > bigger hole, about 3/8 inch, but oblong in shape. Any suggestions as > what to do? An oops rivets could not fill it if I were to drill it > out. The picture shows the elongated hole in the foreground, with a > correctly dimpled hole on the other side of the nose rib in the > background. > > John Jessen > 40328 HS (Finally made up my mind and ordered the SB wings today) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Elongated hole
Here's a link to a similar problem that I had and the "fix" I'm suggesting http://deemsrv10.com/9-13and14s1-3and1-3.html John Jessen wrote: > Folks, I know this has been discussed before, but my search came up > with examples not quite the same. So, am asking anew. > > The part is one of the nose ribs for the HS. Using the pneumatic > squeezer, working too quickly, I punched a hole next to one that I was > trying to dimple. It was so close to the original hole that it made a > bigger hole, about 3/8 inch, but oblong in shape. Any suggestions as > what to do? An oops rivets could not fill it if I were to drill it > out. The picture shows the elongated hole in the foreground, with a > correctly dimpled hole on the other side of the nose rib in the > background. > > John Jessen > 40328 HS (Finally made up my mind and ordered the SB wings today) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Wing Tips Don't Line Up
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Called Vans on this and they recommended cutting and re- epoxying the trailing edge to line up with the ailerons. Scott said you may also have to cut a few inches up the rear outboard edge a little bit as well. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on QB wings _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up Best way I have found in 3 planes built is to save the wing tips until the wings are on the fuse. Line up the flaps perfectly in trail and be sure they mate to your fuse as you expect, then be sure the ailerons to match the flaps (or adjust to make them match), then fit the wing tips to match the ailerons. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement Subject: RV10-List: Wing Tips Don't Line Up I am attaching my wing tips and have all of the nutplates complete on one and the other drilled and clecoed. Neither of the wing tips line up with the ailerons in neutral position. I have clamped the ailerons in line with the flaps in full up position. The trailing edge of the right wing tip is about 1/2" lower than the trailing edge of the aileron. The trailing edge of the left wing tip is about 1/4" higher than the aileron. The trailing edges of the wing tips are about 1/4" - 3/8" too long. I can trim them without breaking the trailing edge joint. I cannot see any simple way of bending/aligning the wing tips except for perhaps cutting the trailing edge in half and reattaching them while trying to twist them into alignment. I would love to hear what others have done to deal with this. I really hope it is not bad parts cause I have put a lot of hours into these wingtips. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on QB Wing Tips ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Right Landing Gear Mount
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Page 28-17 details the Left gear mounting steps but I can not find any reference to the Right gear mount. Is it done at this time (no note that right should mirror the left steps) or is their a later section that covers this? John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Working on QB wings and QB initial fuse steps ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: nylon wiring conduit
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey all - just a quick question - is the nylon conduit for wing wiring the "split" variety? i'm at that point, and i haven't recieved the conduit i ordered from vans. would like to get a moveon this weekend, so i'll try to find some locally. thoughts? thanks cj #40410 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Lewis " <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Subject: Parallel Fuel Line for IO-540 (that bypasses the engine driven
fuel pump) Listers, There are some intersting fuel system design suggestions in <http://www.rv8.ch/staticpages/index.php?page=20030914230507849> (or <http://www.ellison-fluid- systems.com/article/fuelsystemsforhomebuilts/fuelsystems.htm>) In particular, to minimize the chance of vapor lock, "Fuel Routing should be direct from boost pump through filter to carburetor or fuel injector servo. Have engine driven pump plumbed in parallel, not series, so that possible vapor lock in engine driven pump will be bypassed. A check valve may be necessary, depending on pump type." I'm considering using this approach on my RV-10 (IO-540). In the approach I'm considering the fuel line will "T" after the high pressure boost pump output (aft of firewall). One branch will go thru the engine driven pump. The other branch will go thru an Andair check valve then "T" with the output of the engine driven fuel pump, at which point a single line will go forward to the injection system servo/throttle. With this setup the boost pump will be able to supply fuel to the injection system even if the engine drive boost pump is blocked. Does anybody know of any significant downside to this approach? Thanks, Tim Lewis RV-6A N47TD - 790 hrs RV-10 N31TD (reserved) - under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: nylon wiring conduit
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Chris, The conduit from Van's is solid. I've seen the split kind in the auto parts stores and thought about using is myself. Chose the Van's stuff instead and plan to make holes as necessary for AP, Pitot heat, ect. Anyone have a reason not to use the split conduit? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: nylon wiring conduit & AOA
Date: Oct 14, 2005
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
arrrrghhh. just went around to see if i could find any locally, and no joy. after perusing a few of the websites, i think i see that the stuff from vans is solid, and i think it's better quality than the stuff from the auto parts stores. anyone have any ideas on where to find this stuff? also - for those who've installed the AFS AOA what size snap bushing did you use to run the two 1/8" lines through? i think i'm putting it in the opposite wing as the pitot, using the same tooling holes. thanks cj #40410 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Hasbrouck Subject: Re: RV10-List: nylon wiring conduit Chris, The conduit from Van's is solid. I've seen the split kind in the auto parts stores and thought about using is myself. Chose the Van's stuff instead and plan to make holes as necessary for AP, Pitot heat, ect. Anyone have a reason not to use the split conduit? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: nylon wiring conduit
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Van's conduit is not split. Bruce Snyder #40353 QB fuselage uncrated -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Subject: RE: RV10-List: nylon wiring conduit Hey all - just a quick question - is the nylon conduit for wing wiring the "split" variety? i'm at that point, and i haven't recieved the conduit i ordered from vans. would like to get a moveon this weekend, so i'll try to find some locally. thoughts? thanks cj #40410 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Reaming Flap Bracket
Date: Oct 14, 2005
I bought a Cleveland 3/8 in reamer at Oshkosh and 2 RV-10 builders have used it already for these holes. If you want to buy mine, I paid $13 for it and will ship it out for $13. Bruce Snyder #40353 QB fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Reaming Flap Bracket Sean, Myself, and another at my location will be doing SB wings. If you don't find a solution, buy the reamer, then I'll buy it from you, plus shipping. It'll be the floating reamer. Or, check with your local EAA chapter. They may have such a tool. John Jessen 40328 HS (hoping to get it mounted on the mantel this weekend) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: RV10-List: Reaming Flap Bracket For those with the slow build wings, I need to ream the 3/8 hole in the flap brackets. As this is probably the only place I'll need a 3/8 reamer, has anyone used something else? Has anyone tried a Unibit from each side? Just looking for other options before ordering a "one use" reamer. Thanks, Sean #40303 (wing top skins) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: nylon wiring conduit & AOA
Date: Oct 14, 2005
I ran the AOA tubing along with the other wires. I did upsize the snap bushings from 625-7 to 625-8 though. Bob -------------------------- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Johnston <owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: nylon wiring conduit & AOA arrrrghhh. just went around to see if i could find any locally, and no joy. after perusing a few of the websites, i think i see that the stuff from vans is solid, and i think it's better quality than the stuff from the auto parts stores. anyone have any ideas on where to find this stuff? also - for those who've installed the AFS AOA what size snap bushing did you use to run the two 1/8" lines through? i think i'm putting it in the opposite wing as the pitot, using the same tooling holes. thanks cj #40410 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Hasbrouck Subject: Re: RV10-List: nylon wiring conduit Chris, The conduit from Van's is solid. I've seen the split kind in the auto parts stores and thought about using is myself. Chose the Van's stuff instead and plan to make holes as necessary for AP, Pitot heat, ect. Anyone have a reason not to use the split conduit? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Elongated Hole - 2
Date: Oct 15, 2005
Just smear a little structural epoxy or even proseal on the tab and rivet the thang.. If its invisible from the outside and you've satisfied your personal comfort level for a repair, than no harm no foul... you are the person responsible for building a safe and structurally sound airframe. That being said, there going to be many times during the construction of your aircraft in which this same philosophy will prevail. You may not be a structural engineer, but you can use your best judgment in overcoming the small problems encountered during the normal construction process. After building almost 3 rv's and owning a classic spam can. I was appalled at the quality of the faa certified airframe. The lack of deburring, smashed rivets, and poor priming has convinced me that a carefully built obam aircraft even with minor flaws is still far superior than an airframe built by a " professional" from Wichita or Vero Beach. Just .02 Steven dinieri --Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: Elongated Hole - 2 This view might be better. John Jessen 40328 HS ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Air Box/Filter
Date: Oct 15, 2005
7.50 BARRACUDA_HEADER_FP56 RBL: Blacklist bl.spamcop [Blocked - see <http://www.spamcop.net/bl.shtml?65.161.23.63>] The airbox content includes a base plate which is above the filter, an airbox top plate which the base plate is screwed to. These two plates are attached to the injector body. And the glass box itself which is attached to the top plate via rivets on the side of the box. How is the air filter kept in its place? Anh #141 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Door latch warning light
Date: Oct 15, 2005
I saw mention of this earlier. Did you request it or did it just show up? I have my finishing kit and would like to take advantage of the system. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter Subject: RV10-List: Door latch warning light Received door latch warning light kit from Vans today. No charge. Mark to and much ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 15, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Door latch warning light
I saw the following post on Vans Airforce. /I exchanged emails with Tom Green & Ken Krueger about this today. There is a door latch indicator kit which has been incorporated into all RV-10 kits shipping out now and the kit has been sent to all holders of kits already in the field. As others have said, a checklist item to physically verify full closed is appropriate. Even without a door latch indicator system, both RV-10 rear pins can easily be checked from the pilot's seat by reaching around the F-1005C Bulkhead Side Channel and feeling for the end of the pin protruding through. In my RV-6, my before-crossing-the-runway-threshold verbal callout is: / Deems Davis # 406 Wing Leading Edges http://deemsrv10.com/ Marcus Cooper wrote: > > I saw mention of this earlier. Did you request it or did it just show > up? I have my finishing kit and would like to take advantage of the > system. > > > > Marcus > > > > -----Original Message----- > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Mark Ritter > *Sent:* Saturday, October 15, 2005 9:16 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Door latch warning light > > > > Received door latch warning light kit from Vans today. No charge. > > > > Mark > > ==================================== ==================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: solder or crimp??
Date: Oct 16, 2005
I've had soldered D-sub connectors on my TruTrak servos running for about 175 flight hours on my RV-7A without any problem. Just use a length of heat shrink tubing that slides over the soldered pin and the attached wire, and embed everything in some Shoe Goo after all wires are soldered, and it is a very substantial while flexible connection. I did adopt a simple rule on the -7 after having a few flaky wiring connections on things like the trim indicator and a couple of instrument backlights, and that is to use 20 ga. wire as the minimum wire size in the plane. It is much easier to work with and more resistant to mechanical breaks than 22 ga and higher. Cheap insurance for durability and the weight difference is negligible. Just my $0.02 based on one RV flying and another abuilding'. -Dan Masys > > How many builders with Tru-Trak servos are using the solder type D-Sub > connectors that they provide. I've been taught and it's my experience that > soldered connections fail prematurely when exposed to vibration. The heat > hardens the copper strands and they get brittle from repeated work hardening > vibrations. It's a definite no-no to solder wires in a certificated > aircraft. Anybody want to voice an opinion here? It will cost me about $44 > for the crimpers and about $.40 per pin/socket plus a couple bucks per > plug/receptacle to go the crimped route, which I'll probably do because > there will be many more D-Sub connectors. > > Paul Hahn > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Air Box/Filter
Date: Oct 16, 2005
It's pinched in place by the glass box and the top plate, I believe. That pressure is part of making the airbox. Fun stuff! Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu Subject: RV10-List: Air Box/Filter The airbox content includes a base plate which is above the filter, an airbox top plate which the base plate is screwed to. These two plates are attached to the injector body. And the glass box itself which is attached to the top plate via rivets on the side of the box. How is the air filter kept in its place? Anh #141 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: inertial belts update
Date: Oct 16, 2005
we have now established the hardpoints for the inertial belts for the 10. I have enclosed two pictures and a pdf of the drawings for the belts. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: wings problems
Date: Oct 16, 2005
About a month ago some body say where problems in Canada regarding spars riveting,was any follow up .I thinks I will recive mine an a month ,and like to know if the problem was real. Hugo ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Oct 16, 2005
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: wings problems
No idea on the story, but I took my rivet gauge and checked all my spar rivets. They're all okay. -Jim 40384, done priming rear spar. watching paint dry now :) gommone7(at)bellsouth.net wrote: > >About a month ago some body say where problems in Canada regarding spars riveting,was any follow up .I thinks I will recive mine an a month ,and like to know if the problem was real. >Hugo > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Laura Riley" <JIMANDLAURA(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Elongated hole
Date: Oct 16, 2005
John, It's not really that big of a deal. I would just put a doubler piece in behind the elongated hole. Take some scrap and cut a piece 1.5"x.5" and rivet it to the rib only using two flush rivets. Drill and dimple the original hole where it should be and walla, good to go. You just have to use a slightly longer rivet in that hole. Jim Riley Fuselage Folks, I know this has been discussed before, but my search came up with examples not quite the same. So, am asking anew.


October 07, 2005 - October 16, 2005

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