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November 02, 2005 - December 01, 2005

him if you want to check it out (Brad Burnett - 352-361-4848). Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Subject: Re: Louisville, KY
Jesse, What dates are you talking about? I'm going to be in Louisville the 7th-13th so if you want to show off your plane let me know. No big deal though if you're too busy. -Brian Iowa City, IA Empennage ----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Louisville, KY
Date: Nov 02, 2005
That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if you want them in a hurry. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY > We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this > list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would > really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar whenever possible. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : ) TDT From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Strange request/offer
Date: Nov 02, 2005
I have some stuff at Van's that I ordered from Spruce to have sent to Ecuador in a container. It turns out we are learning the hard way that shipping hazmat stuff in a container is extremely (how can I emphasize - EXTREMELY!!!!!!!) complicated and expensive. Now I am having Spruce get a quote on shipping the stuff directly down there, but now I have about $500 worth of stuff sitting at Van's that I need a home for. I have a friend who will probably be able to go to Van's and pull the stuff out of the boxes, but he doesn't need it, so that is where some of you may come in (those that may live around there). If anybody wants to buy some of this stuff without paying the shipping cost (and I am sure we can work out some kind of discount), please contact me off the list. Here's the list (with quantities): 1 West System Epoxy 205 Hardener - Qt 2 West System Epoxy 206 Hardener - Qt 2 FE6026 Parts A&B 2 AKZO Nobel Epoxy Primer - 2 Gal 24 Tempo green Zinc Chromate A I look forward to possibly hearing from some of you! Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Louisville, KY
Date: Nov 02, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
Who needs to measure my plane? Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if you want them in a hurry. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY > We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this > list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would > really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar whenever possible. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : ) TDT From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Pierce" <rpierce(at)bak.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Frappr Map for the list
Date: Nov 02, 2005
James, It did the same thing to me. Our zip code changed about 2 yrs ago but not everyone has figured it out. I just used the old zip code which is still valid. If that doesn't work, just try a different zip which is close to you. Roger Pierce Bakersfield, CA QB wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted on RV list" <ted_french(at)telus.net>
Subject: Frappr Map for the list
Date: Nov 02, 2005
So after youv'e messed up and uploaded two photos of yourself, how do you delete them..? Ted French RV-10 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 02, 2005
From: AI Nut <ainut(at)hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Frappr Map for the list
The admin has to do it. Ted on RV list wrote: > > > So after youv'e messed up and uploaded two photos of yourself, how do > you delete them..? > > Ted French > RV-10 wings > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Louisville, KY
Date: Nov 03, 2005
We have the cover designed and are waiting for the first prototype from the factory. I would guess we will have it mid November, then the first covers for sale around the first of the year. They will be like the rest of our covers and for travel only not for continued storage. They are very lightweight and completely waterproof. I am keeping a list of people interested, if you would like on that list, please send me an email privately at mike(at)cleavelandtool.com Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Who needs to measure my plane? Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if you want them in a hurry. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY > We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this > list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would > really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar whenever possible. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : ) TDT From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: RV-10 Covers
Date: Nov 03, 2005
Mike's will be professionally made, which is great. What I'm putting together is a kit, like the old Frost Line kits that you used to make down jackets from. It will contain the material, accessories, thread, etc. It'll be for the person who wants to do every little bit himself or herself, and save a few bucks. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY --> We have the cover designed and are waiting for the first prototype from the factory. I would guess we will have it mid November, then the first covers for sale around the first of the year. They will be like the rest of our covers and for travel only not for continued storage. They are very lightweight and completely waterproof. I am keeping a list of people interested, if you would like on that list, please send me an email privately at mike(at)cleavelandtool.com Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Who needs to measure my plane? Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if you want them in a hurry. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY > We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this > list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would > really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar whenever possible. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : ) TDT From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: RV-10 Covers
Date: Nov 03, 2005
Sounds interesting. Will yours be for hangaring outside as well as travel? Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Covers Mike's will be professionally made, which is great. What I'm putting together is a kit, like the old Frost Line kits that you used to make down jackets from. It will contain the material, accessories, thread, etc. It'll be for the person who wants to do every little bit himself or herself, and save a few bucks. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY --> We have the cover designed and are waiting for the first prototype from the factory. I would guess we will have it mid November, then the first covers for sale around the first of the year. They will be like the rest of our covers and for travel only not for continued storage. They are very lightweight and completely waterproof. I am keeping a list of people interested, if you would like on that list, please send me an email privately at mike(at)cleavelandtool.com Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Who needs to measure my plane? Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if you want them in a hurry. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY > We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this > list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would > really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar whenever possible. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : ) TDT From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Cleaveland Covers
Date: Nov 03, 2005
Estimated price? Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY We have the cover designed and are waiting for the first prototype from the factory. I would guess we will have it mid November, then the first covers for sale around the first of the year. They will be like the rest of our covers and for travel only not for continued storage. They are very lightweight and completely waterproof. I am keeping a list of people interested, if you would like on that list, please send me an email privately at mike(at)cleavelandtool.com Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Who needs to measure my plane? Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if you want them in a hurry. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY > We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this > list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would > really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar whenever possible. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : ) TDT From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: TruTrak DII VSG Harness
Date: Nov 03, 2005
Is anybody in need of a wiring harness for a TruTrak Digiflight II? I think all of their two servo harnesses are the same, but I don't know for sure. This one was specifically for a Digiflight II VSG, but the item on the invoice from TruTrak was just Two-Servo wiring harness and it was for the RV-10, so it should fit all of them. I have it coming from Stein for a guy who had ordered the whole Autopilot from me, but he cancelled and the harness had already shipped. I will let it go at dealer cost if somebody wants it, or I can just return it to TruTrak. Let me know off the list. $161.50 + shipping Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Door Warning Light Kit
Date: Nov 03, 2005
For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well). "You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an alternative 'fix' are available...." I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when they get it figured out. FYI Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2005
Subject: Horsepower and Speed limits
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any information as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or structural strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated anything such as turbocharging that might put a little more weight up front, and make maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, thus increasing TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might make the RV-10 faster? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door Warning Light Kit
Date: Nov 03, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just one? TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well). "You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were supplied...are incorrect to wire the system... We are in the process of obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an alternative 'fix' are available...." I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when they get it figured out. FYI Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Door Warning Light Kit
Date: Nov 03, 2005
I think it wires both pins on both doors, 4 total sensors. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit Does anyone know if that kit wires a sensor/switch to both door pins or just one? TDT 40025 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit For those who are interested in the door warning light kit that Van's has been sending out, you might be interested in this letter I just got from them (which some of you have probably already gotten as well). "You recently receive a door warninig light kit. The two relays that were supplied.are incorrect to wire the system. We are in the process of obtaining the correct relays and will contact you when these parts or an alternative 'fix' are available...." I talked to them and said that I got the letter but had never received the kit. They said that I shouldn't worry about it because the kits they sent out weren't going to work anyway, and they would send out a new kit when they get it figured out. FYI Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Horsepower and Speed limits
Date: Nov 03, 2005
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the $$ & complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more weight in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast in the back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more noticeable. I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead cover that will give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as much ballast plus I get more storage. I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for the -10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his site doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed 10 for a while and there just isn't enough complete yet. If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the same but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start hitting diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most increase out of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction. Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much until we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is very good. If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If I understand other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control surfaces to increase the magic number at which the plane shakes like a wet dog. Problem with flutter is it -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any information as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or structural strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated anything such as turbocharging that might put a little more weight up front, and make maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, thus increasing TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might make the RV-10 faster? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2005
Subject: Horsepower and Speed limits
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
That is what I suspected, especially looking at the numbers for the Cont.IO-360 version, that I assume Vans has never actually offered a FWF kit for. I suppose some of the weight issue could be solved with an MT composite prop, as they tend to run 12-14lbs lighter than 2 blade Hartzells. RV Builder (Michael Sausen) said: > Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the > $$ & complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more > weight in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast > in the back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more > noticeable. I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead > cover that will give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as > much ballast plus I get more storage. > > I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that > adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for > the -10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his > site doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed > 10 for a while and there just isn't enough complete yet. > > If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an > alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the > same but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start > hitting diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most > increase out of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction. > > Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much > until we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is > very good. If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If > I understand other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control > surfaces to increase the magic number at which the plane shakes like a > wet dog. Problem with flutter is it > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen > Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 2:10 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits > > > While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any > information as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or > structural strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated > anything such as turbocharging that might put a little more weight up > front, and make maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, > thus increasing TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might > make the RV-10 faster? > > > ============================================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Horsepower and Speed limits
Date: Nov 03, 2005
May I please suggest that you not do too much to commit yourself to more weight in the tail before you have flown the thing? The last thing want in our plane is more weight in the tail, at least the way we fly it. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the $$ & complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more weight in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast in the back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more noticeable. I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead cover that will give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as much ballast plus I get more storage. I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for the -10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his site doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed 10 for a while and there just isn't enough complete yet. If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the same but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start hitting diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most increase out of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction. Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much until we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is very good. If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If I understand other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control surfaces to increase the magic number at which the plane shakes like a wet dog. Problem with flutter is it -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any information as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or structural strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated anything such as turbocharging that might put a little more weight up front, and make maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, thus increasing TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might make the RV-10 faster? ==================================== RV10-List Email Forum - more: bsp; ==================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Horsepower and Speed limits
Date: Nov 03, 2005
From: "Pierre Levy" <pierre(at)danieljofriel.com>
Has anyone considered an Innodyn turbine for the RV-10 (http://www.innodyn.com)? Pierre Levy (505) 982-5929 (w) (505) 672-1121 (h) ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits May I please suggest that you not do too much to commit yourself to more weight in the tail before you have flown the thing? The last thing want in our plane is more weight in the tail, at least the way we fly it. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the $$ & complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more weight in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast in the back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more noticeable. I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead cover that will give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as much ballast plus I get more storage. I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for the -10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his site doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed 10 for a while and there just isn't enough complete yet. If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the same but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start hitting diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most increase out of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction. Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much until we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is very good. If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If I understand other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control surfaces to increase the magic number at which the plane shakes like a wet dog. Problem with flutter is it -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any information as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or structural strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated anything such as turbocharging that might put a little more weight up front, and make maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, thus increasing TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might make the RV-10 faster? RV10-List Email Forum - more: bsp; ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Horsepower and Speed limits
Date: Nov 03, 2005
I have chosen to go with the MT 3 Blade prop designed for the 10. I don't expect to have it flying until April or May and will post numbers at such time. Russ Daves #40044 - Fuselage on main gear ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits > > That is what I suspected, especially looking at the numbers for the > Cont.IO-360 version, that I assume Vans has never actually offered a FWF > kit for. I suppose some of the weight issue could be solved with an MT > composite prop, as they tend to run 12-14lbs lighter than 2 blade > Hartzells. > > RV Builder (Michael Sausen) said: >> Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the >> $$ & complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more >> weight in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast >> in the back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more >> noticeable. I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead >> cover that will give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as >> much ballast plus I get more storage. >> >> I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that >> adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for >> the -10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his >> site doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed >> 10 for a while and there just isn't enough complete yet. >> >> If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an >> alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the >> same but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start >> hitting diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most >> increase out of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction. >> >> Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much >> until we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is >> very good. If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If >> I understand other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control >> surfaces to increase the magic number at which the plane shakes like a >> wet dog. Problem with flutter is it >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen >> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 2:10 PM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits >> >> >> While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any >> information as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or >> structural strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated >> anything such as turbocharging that might put a little more weight up >> front, and make maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight levels, >> thus increasing TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might >> make the RV-10 faster? >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ============================================================ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Horsepower and Speed limits
Date: Nov 03, 2005
there are some issues with the MT prop blades de-laminating from the core on a RV in the UK. The prop is running on a IO360. I haven't actually seen the damage or spoken to the guy that has the problem, but it is a bit of a downer if you spend the extra money........ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits > > I have chosen to go with the MT 3 Blade prop designed for the 10. I don't > expect to have it flying until April or May and will post numbers at such > time. > > Russ Daves > #40044 - Fuselage on main gear > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> > To: > Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 3:15 PM > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits > > >> >> That is what I suspected, especially looking at the numbers for the >> Cont.IO-360 version, that I assume Vans has never actually offered a FWF >> kit for. I suppose some of the weight issue could be solved with an MT >> composite prop, as they tend to run 12-14lbs lighter than 2 blade >> Hartzells. >> >> RV Builder (Michael Sausen) said: >>> Couple of things here. I considered turbo normalizing but, besides the >>> $$ & complexity, the additional weight up front would require even more >>> weight in the back. The -10 is nose heavy and usually requires ballast >>> in the back, so more weight up front will make the problem even more >>> noticeable. I'm building a "hat shelf" right behind the rear bulkhead >>> cover that will give me a little more aft CG point so I won't need as >>> much ballast plus I get more storage. >>> >>> I chatted with Sam James briefly at OSH (he makes the "Holy Cowl" that >>> adds up to 10mph) and he had said that he was going to do something for >>> the -10. I just sent him an email to see if that has progressed as his >>> site doesn't mention anything. Odds are he needs access to a completed >>> 10 for a while and there just isn't enough complete yet. >>> >>> If you really want to get speed out, you need to probably look at an >>> alternative engine that is either lighter at the same HP or weighs the >>> same but put's out a lot more HP. Unfortunately you rapidly start >>> hitting diminishing returns when it comes to HP. You will get the most >>> increase out of aerodynamic enhancements and weight reduction. >>> >>> Personally I'm not comfortable exceeding the 211 number by too much >>> until we get more hours on the fleet. Supposedly the flutter margin is >>> very good. If it's 20% you can hit 250mph before things shake off. If >>> I understand other speedsters correctly they usually beef up control >>> surfaces to increase the magic number at which the plane shakes like a >>> wet dog. Problem with flutter is it >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly >>> McMullen >>> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 2:10 PM >>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>> Subject: RV10-List: Horsepower and Speed limits >>> >>> >>> While Van's stated horsepower limit is well known, is there any >>> information as to whether it is based on potential speed restrictions or >>> structural strength or?? I'm wondering whether anyone has contemplated >>> anything such as turbocharging that might put a little more weight up >>> front, and make maintaining indicated airspeed up into the flight >>> levels, >>> thus increasing TAS by 20-30% Or any other aerodynamic mods that might >>> make the RV-10 faster? >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ============================================================ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2005
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Warped fiberglass intersection fairings (U-1019-L/R, U-1020-L/R)
In my recently received finishing kit I noticed that my U-1019L/R and U-1020L/R intersection fairings are significantly warped. They arrived wrapped tightly together with plastic wrap. It looks like the plastic wrap was too tight, and induced a bunch of permanent distortions in the fairings (photos attached)... One of the 4 is just fine. Have others found the same things in your finishing kits? I'm inclined to send these back to Van's. Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 03, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
U-1020-L/R)
Subject: Re: Warped fiberglass intersection fairings (U-1019-L/R,
U-1020-L/R) Call Van's. They should replace them. Tim Lewis wrote: > In my recently received finishing kit I noticed that my U-1019L/R and > U-1020L/R intersection fairings are significantly warped. They > arrived wrapped tightly together with plastic wrap. It looks like the > plastic wrap was too tight, and induced a bunch of permanent > distortions in the fairings (photos attached)... One of the 4 is just > fine. > > Have others found the same things in your finishing kits? > > I'm inclined to send these back to Van's. > > Tim > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Warped fiberglass intersection fairings (U-1019-L/R, U-1020-L/R)
Date: Nov 03, 2005
Those are pathetic. I'd ask for a redo. -Chris Lucas #40072 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> Subject: RV10-List: Warped fiberglass intersection fairings (U-1019-L/R, U-1020-L/R) > In my recently received finishing kit I noticed that my U-1019L/R and > U-1020L/R intersection fairings are significantly warped. They arrived > wrapped tightly together with plastic wrap. It looks like the plastic > wrap was too tight, and induced a bunch of permanent distortions in the > fairings (photos attached)... One of the 4 is just fine. > > Have others found the same things in your finishing kits? > > I'm inclined to send these back to Van's. > > Tim > -- > Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) > RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs > RV-10 #40059 under construction > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
"'Condrey, Bob $US SSA$'"
Subject: Cleaveland Covers
Date: Nov 04, 2005
As our prototype is completed they will do a "time study", at that time they will give us pricing and we will place the order. I will let everyone know the price as soon as possible. Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Cleaveland Covers Estimated price? Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY We have the cover designed and are waiting for the first prototype from the factory. I would guess we will have it mid November, then the first covers for sale around the first of the year. They will be like the rest of our covers and for travel only not for continued storage. They are very lightweight and completely waterproof. I am keeping a list of people interested, if you would like on that list, please send me an email privately at mike(at)cleavelandtool.com Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Who needs to measure my plane? Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY That was me. My seamstress got overwhelmed in her day job and has yet to do the measurements on Randy's plane. We won't be ready for about a month, but do plan on making the kits available. Probably best to spend full fare if you want them in a hurry. John Jessen 328 HS / Elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY > We do not have a cover yet. Did anything happen with the guy on this > list who was going to look into getting a kit put together? We would > really like to get a cover, but would still like to be in a hangar whenever possible. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Hey, Jesse, have you guys ordered a canopy cover for your airplane? : ) TDT From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Louisville, KY Thanks, James, for your help. Our plane will also be in Louisville, KY from Monday through the following Monday. Does anybody have an empty hangar up in that area that we could park in? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F:815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: no Aerosance FADEC planned
Date: Nov 04, 2005
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey all - After emailing several times to Aerosance, I figured it was about time to do it the old fashioned way... Just got off the phone with someone in the tech department at Aerosance, and they said that there was no demand for the FADEC for the 540. After pressing a bit, he said that unless marketing had some sort of epiphany, there wouldn't be a FADEC for the 540 any time soon. I asked if one of the others could possibly be adapted to work (assuming you could program and tune the spark & fuel management) and he said that they would have to build the hardware etc. for the 540, and that they don't have one. So effectively the guy said that it's sort of permanently on the back burner. My attempt at "I'm building an RV-10 and there's a big builder community that might be interested blah blah blah..." seemed to fall on deaf ears. Bummer. I thought it seemed to be a better way to go than Precision's offering. More expensive, sure, but better. Anyone else planned to go FADEC? cj #40410 wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net>
Subject: Re: Door Warning Light Kit
Date: Nov 04, 2005
Just put a micro switch on the throttle, completing a circuit at the throttle angle representing run-up rpm. Jerry Grimmonpre RV8A ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 6:19 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit can not use the extra 5th or 6th sensor in the EIS6000 if configured for the Chelton system. GRT has responded in the negative ----- Original Message ----- From: Marcus Cooper To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 4:26 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door Warning Light Kit I would definitely not want anything extra in line with the start circuit. Besides the heat considerations, that would be one more potential failure point that could ruin your day if you needed to kick the starter in flight for some reason. Certainly not your day if needed, but that's often how things go. Also would be frustrating if it failed while away from home, although I suspect you could hotwire it in that case. Another consideration would be to feed the wire to one of the EFIS or engine monitors that many (most?) folks are using. I think most have an option for some kind of switch warning and will provide an extra indicator. Marcus 40286, looking forward to getting the lid on the fuselage once the workshop is finished ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark(at)bmts.com>
Subject: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 04, 2005
Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 04, 2005
For anyone considering a Cross you should contact Darwin Barrie at ktlkrn(at)cox.net ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 05, 2005
Hi Rick, It's ver interesting to look at an engine that is 93lbs lighter than the engine the RV10 was'designed' for. Have you realised what this will do to a simple matter called C of G? As Van himself frequently has stated, the best coversion is $$$ into Lycoming. If you want a cheaper version of a Lycoming 540 that is also a couple of pounds ( not 93!!) lighter go for a damged R44 helicopter. Get one with the 11 hole optional panel and you get two BF Goodrich gyros, A KT76 Xpndr and a KX155 + 203indicator. The engines are belt driven in the R44's and seldomly get shockloaded. The also rarely suffer a sudden stopage which also leads to shockload inspection as per guidelines from Lycoming. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 05, 2005
Subject: RE: plenum design.
if you want to see a simple (you could build it yourself) design, pop open the cowl of any 50+ year old Cessna 170b. My cowl swings up for easy engine access on either side. Also a great idea, that is simple to create. Inside is a plenum box over the top of the 6 cyl 145hp engine. The plenum has three, quarter turn thumb locks on each side for easy access to the top half of the cylinders. All air is directed downward and exits a larger cheater hole on the bottom cowl. The engine restarts hot every time...good design. Steve Port St. Lucie, FL 772-475-5556 Sent from my Treo 600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 05, 2005
A true statement except for the fact that, at least from what we've all read, the -10 is nose heavy and many have suggested ballast in the back when flying with only 1-2 people. Seems like Vans coiuld have done a better job at the CG and 93 pounds lighter would, in fact, be welcomed by most pilots. I'm not yet a builder (starting in January) but I, for one, would be happier to not have to load 100lbs of shot bags in the back when I want to fly alone. Seems like for $100 grand we shouldn't have to worry about that. I'm not promoting the Crossflow or any other engine. I wish the Innodyn were real and that one weighs a lot less than the Lycoming (188lbs). ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Rick, It's ver interesting to look at an engine that is 93lbs lighter than the engine the RV10 was'designed' for. Have you realised what this will do to a simple matter called C of G? As Van himself frequently has stated, the best coversion is $$$ into Lycoming. If you want a cheaper version of a Lycoming 540 that is also a couple of pounds ( not 93!!) lighter go for a damged R44 helicopter. Get one with the 11 hole optional panel and you get two BF Goodrich gyros, A KT76 Xpndr and a KX155 + 203indicator. The engines are belt driven in the R44's and seldomly get shockloaded. The also rarely suffer a sudden stopage which also leads to shockload inspection as per guidelines from Lycoming. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 05, 2005
Good point Tim and it's not just the Cherokee 6. Just about every 4 place I've flow is at its forward CG limit with 2 up front and full fuel. Friend of mine flies a C177 and with 2 up front he always uses full nose up trim during landing. C182's are a nose heavy beast (check out the history of bent firewalls) with two up front. Is the -10 any worse than any other 4 place? John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Fuel Injector Spider installation question
Date: Nov 05, 2005
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912 I am installing my Airflow Performance fuel injection spider and had a question. Do I need to match location on the spider to a specific cylinder, or do I hook up any cylinder to any location in the spider? I could not seem to find any cylinder numbers on the spider and I directions leave much to be desired..... Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -Mike ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 05, 2005
As has been said by others the -10 is most certainly not nose heavy. I'll give you something else to worry about just for the craic, Try guessing with the shift does of 54 Gallons of fuel at 6lbs a gallon............get the drift. The C of G calculations need done on both ends with any(!!) RV if you wish to use the aircraft again. the aircarft has been designed to carry four people and baggage, see the design brief of Van's, if you wish to do something else with it you can't blame Van's for a narrow c of g envelope, you need to look in the mirror, the guy lokking back at you has chosen the wrong airplane for his mission. M ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Dalton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 A true statement except for the fact that, at least from what we've all read, the -10 is nose heavy and many have suggested ballast in the back when flying with only 1-2 people. Seems like Vans coiuld have done a better job at the CG and 93 pounds lighter would, in fact, be welcomed by most pilots. I'm not yet a builder (starting in January) but I, for one, would be happier to not have to load 100lbs of shot bags in the back when I want to fly alone. Seems like for $100 grand we shouldn't have to worry about that. I'm not promoting the Crossflow or any other engine. I wish the Innodyn were real and that one weighs a lot less than the Lycoming (188lbs). ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Rick, It's ver interesting to look at an engine that is 93lbs lighter than the engine the RV10 was'designed' for. Have you realised what this will do to a simple matter called C of G? As Van himself frequently has stated, the best coversion is $$$ into Lycoming. If you want a cheaper version of a Lycoming 540 that is also a couple of pounds ( not 93!!) lighter go for a damged R44 helicopter. Get one with the 11 hole optional panel and you get two BF Goodrich gyros, A KT76 Xpndr and a KX155 + 203indicator. The engines are belt driven in the R44's and seldomly get shockloaded. The also rarely suffer a sudden stopage which also leads to shockload inspection as per guidelines from Lycoming. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 05, 2005
not sure why you feel the need to get personal in your messages. It's really offensive. I was simply pointing out what many people have said. ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 4:09 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 As has been said by others the -10 is most certainly not nose heavy. I'll give you something else to worry about just for the craic, Try guessing with the shift does of 54 Gallons of fuel at 6lbs a gallon............get the drift. The C of G calculations need done on both ends with any(!!) RV if you wish to use the aircraft again. the aircarft has been designed to carry four people and baggage, see the design brief of Van's, if you wish to do something else with it you can't blame Van's for a narrow c of g envelope, you need to look in the mirror, the guy lokking back at you has chosen the wrong airplane for his mission. M ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Dalton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 A true statement except for the fact that, at least from what we've all read, the -10 is nose heavy and many have suggested ballast in the back when flying with only 1-2 people. Seems like Vans coiuld have done a better job at the CG and 93 pounds lighter would, in fact, be welcomed by most pilots. I'm not yet a builder (starting in January) but I, for one, would be happier to not have to load 100lbs of shot bags in the back when I want to fly alone. Seems like for $100 grand we shouldn't have to worry about that. I'm not promoting the Crossflow or any other engine. I wish the Innodyn were real and that one weighs a lot less than the Lycoming (188lbs). ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Rick, It's ver interesting to look at an engine that is 93lbs lighter than the engine the RV10 was'designed' for. Have you realised what this will do to a simple matter called C of G? As Van himself frequently has stated, the best coversion is $$$ into Lycoming. If you want a cheaper version of a Lycoming 540 that is also a couple of pounds ( not 93!!) lighter go for a damged R44 helicopter. Get one with the 11 hole optional panel and you get two BF Goodrich gyros, A KT76 Xpndr and a KX155 + 203indicator. The engines are belt driven in the R44's and seldomly get shockloaded. The also rarely suffer a sudden stopage which also leads to shockload inspection as per guidelines from Lycoming. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn
Date: Nov 05, 2005
From: "John McCarthy" <john@whirled-routers.com>
Hello listmembers I have been lurking & reading the list for some time now. I have no project underway but I have been reading this list voraciously. I noticed recently that some discussion regarding higher speeds and therefore a higher TAS. I was wondering why no one had thought of Innodyn 255TE 255 Horse power Turbo prop firewall forward package. I spoke to Innodyn last week and was told that there is at least one RV-10 builder in the Las Vegas area that is hoping to have a RV-10 Turboprop operational in the new year. One great thing about these turbines is the weigh less than a typical IO-540 engine, & may allow more fuel & thus longer range. All of the above having been said by me, am I going over old ground here or is it a stupid idea to even consider an RV-10 with a Turboprop? BTW www.innodyn.com is the website for Innodyn turbines.. Thanks for your time Regards John McCarthy Whirled Routers Inc., 811 N. Catalina Ave # 3112 Redondo Beach CA 90277 310 376 8755 310 376 8785 Fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn
Date: Nov 05, 2005
John, Hope you are able to start building soon, it's a lot more fun than lurking! I think if you'll search the archives you will find a lot of discussion about Innodyn, including some recently. I suspect a lot of folks would love to try a turbine, but the company hasn't produced enough solid data to support their claims and for most it's not worth the risk right now. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John McCarthy Subject: RV10-List: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn Hello listmembers I have been lurking & reading the list for some time now. I have no project underway but I have been reading this list voraciously. I noticed recently that some discussion regarding higher speeds and therefore a higher TAS. I was wondering why no one had thought of Innodyn 255TE 255 Horse power Turbo prop firewall forward package. I spoke to Innodyn last week and was told that there is at least one RV-10 builder in the Las Vegas area that is hoping to have a RV-10 Turboprop operational in the new year. One great thing about these turbines is the weigh less than a typical IO-540 engine, & may allow more fuel & thus longer range. All of the above having been said by me, am I going over old ground here or is it a stupid idea to even consider an RV-10 with a Turboprop? BTW www.innodyn.com is the website for Innodyn turbines.. Thanks for your time Regards John McCarthy Whirled Routers Inc., 811 N. Catalina Ave # 3112 Redondo Beach CA 90277 310 376 8755 310 376 8785 Fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn
Date: Nov 05, 2005
Being one of the five Las Vegas builders, I think Innodyn is smoking some pretty wacky tobaccy. I probably am the most unusual Las Vegas builder, but will not do an Innodyn unless they pay me a lot of money. Bob K -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John McCarthy Subject: RV10-List: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn Hello listmembers I have been lurking & reading the list for some time now. I have no project underway but I have been reading this list voraciously. I noticed recently that some discussion regarding higher speeds and therefore a higher TAS. I was wondering why no one had thought of Innodyn 255TE 255 Horse power Turbo prop firewall forward package. I spoke to Innodyn last week and was told that there is at least one RV-10 builder in the Las Vegas area that is hoping to have a RV-10 Turboprop operational in the new year. One great thing about these turbines is the weigh less than a typical IO-540 engine, & may allow more fuel & thus longer range. All of the above having been said by me, am I going over old ground here or is it a stupid idea to even consider an RV-10 with a Turboprop? BTW www.innodyn.com is the website for Innodyn turbines.. Thanks for your time Regards John McCarthy Whirled Routers Inc., 811 N. Catalina Ave # 3112 Redondo Beach CA 90277 310 376 8755 310 376 8785 Fax ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injector Spider installation question
Date: Nov 06, 2005
Mike, My engine came with the spider already installed. The fuel inlet and pressure ports on the spider face aft. It's then apparent which cylinder is hooked up to which fitting on the spider. Pictures of 410RV show the inlet and pressure ports on their spider facing fwd. The left and right fittings would then be reversed. I'm not an engine guru but it does not seem to matter. Anh #40141 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Injector Spider installation question > > > I am installing my Airflow Performance fuel injection spider and had a > question. Do I need to match location on the spider to a specific > cylinder, or do I hook up any cylinder to any location in the spider? I > could not seem to find any cylinder numbers on the spider and I > directions leave much to be desired..... > > Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks > -Mike > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn
Date: Nov 06, 2005
For those considering Innodyne; have you ever heard of the engine for the BD5? ----- Original Message ----- From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn > > Being one of the five Las Vegas builders, I think Innodyn is smoking some > pretty wacky tobaccy. I probably am the most unusual Las Vegas builder, > but > will not do an Innodyn unless they pay me a lot of money. > > Bob K > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John McCarthy > Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:32 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Faster Engines & higher speeds Innodyn > > <john@whirled-routers.com> > > Hello listmembers > > I have been lurking & reading the list for some time now. I have no > project > underway but I have been reading this list voraciously. > > I noticed recently that some discussion regarding higher speeds and > therefore a higher TAS. I was wondering why no one had thought of Innodyn > 255TE 255 Horse power Turbo prop firewall forward package. I spoke to > Innodyn last week and was told that there is at least one RV-10 builder in > the Las Vegas area that is hoping to have a RV-10 Turboprop operational in > the new year. One great thing about these turbines is the weigh less than > a > typical IO-540 engine, & may allow more fuel & thus longer range. > > > All of the above having been said by me, am I going over old ground here > or > is it a stupid idea to even consider an RV-10 with a Turboprop? > > BTW www.innodyn.com is the website for Innodyn turbines.. > > > Thanks for your time > > Regards > > John McCarthy > Whirled Routers Inc., > 811 N. Catalina Ave # 3112 > Redondo Beach CA 90277 > 310 376 8755 > 310 376 8785 Fax > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 06, 2005
Hi Jeff, I'm not getting personal, simply pointing out what Van's has been saying for years, certain aircraft for certain missions. realise this though, playing around with CofG issues can have serious complications. Being 93 LBS lighter isn't a bad idea, providing being the 93 pound lighter is in the right place. On or very near the empty CofG would be the most ideal place, however get to one of the extremes of the aircraft and it won't work that sweet. Put 93lbs in tail and the aircraft won't fly under any circumstances. take away 93lbs from the front end and the aircraft will end up being tail heavy. A rough guess would make me say that you have the same effect as having a tail that's 30lbs over weight when you take away the 93lbs at the front. Perhaps you should try and get the hold of a manual and in particular the weight and balance section and see what effect it would have when you take away 93lbs from the front. There's sample weight and balances in that section of the prototype RV10. Marcel RV4~4324 construction RV7~71553 flying RV10~40277 construction ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Dalton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 10:13 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 not sure why you feel the need to get personal in your messages. It's really offensive. I was simply pointing out what many people have said. ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 4:09 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 As has been said by others the -10 is most certainly not nose heavy. I'll give you something else to worry about just for the craic, Try guessing with the shift does of 54 Gallons of fuel at 6lbs a gallon............get the drift. The C of G calculations need done on both ends with any(!!) RV if you wish to use the aircraft again. the aircarft has been designed to carry four people and baggage, see the design brief of Van's, if you wish to do something else with it you can't blame Van's for a narrow c of g envelope, you need to look in the mirror, the guy lokking back at you has chosen the wrong airplane for his mission. M ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Dalton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 A true statement except for the fact that, at least from what we've all read, the -10 is nose heavy and many have suggested ballast in the back when flying with only 1-2 people. Seems like Vans coiuld have done a better job at the CG and 93 pounds lighter would, in fact, be welcomed by most pilots. I'm not yet a builder (starting in January) but I, for one, would be happier to not have to load 100lbs of shot bags in the back when I want to fly alone. Seems like for $100 grand we shouldn't have to worry about that. I'm not promoting the Crossflow or any other engine. I wish the Innodyn were real and that one weighs a lot less than the Lycoming (188lbs). ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Rick, It's ver interesting to look at an engine that is 93lbs lighter than the engine the RV10 was'designed' for. Have you realised what this will do to a simple matter called C of G? As Van himself frequently has stated, the best coversion is $$$ into Lycoming. If you want a cheaper version of a Lycoming 540 that is also a couple of pounds ( not 93!!) lighter go for a damged R44 helicopter. Get one with the 11 hole optional panel and you get two BF Goodrich gyros, A KT76 Xpndr and a KX155 + 203indicator. The engines are belt driven in the R44's and seldomly get shockloaded. The also rarely suffer a sudden stopage which also leads to shockload inspection as per guidelines from Lycoming. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2005
From: Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Hey all, RAS wrote: > As a matter of interest, has anyone got the dry weight figure for the > continental that Van's proposed to use as a 210HP engine option? I might > stand corrected, but I believe this engine is a six cylinder and > therefore doubt whether or not it is an awful lighter (in weight) than > the 260HP Lycoming 540 series. If my memory serves from the research I did at the time, the Lycoming dry weight was about 380lbs and the Continental IO-360 dry weight was about 300-310lbs. Someone could probably recall the exact figures. Have fun, Scott Lewis RV-10 40172 Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 06, 2005
Well, I just looked up the weight on a Lycoming IO360A3B6 as 333 lbs according to the owners manual. I'm 99.94% certain the Continental IO360 is a bit heavier, but don't have a reference handy. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Lewis" <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hey all, RAS wrote: > As a matter of interest, has anyone got the dry weight figure for the > continental that Van's proposed to use as a 210HP engine option? I might > stand corrected, but I believe this engine is a six cylinder and > therefore doubt whether or not it is an awful lighter (in weight) than > the 260HP Lycoming 540 series. If my memory serves from the research I did at the time, the Lycoming dry weight was about 380lbs and the Continental IO-360 dry weight was about 300-310lbs. Someone could probably recall the exact figures. Have fun, Scott Lewis RV-10 40172 Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 06, 2005
Subject: Re: Fuel Spider
The injector spider is NOT an "electronic controlled" fuel injection. It is simply a 6 way splitter with fuel in, and 6 tubes out to the cylinders, with injectors. It is a very crude fuel injection system that just keeps working. The injectors are always ON!!! Similar to a carb that is just open and lets fuel go. There is no carb, so no carb ice. The injectors must be slightly more efficient then a carb, but electronic fuel injection is even better, but then has more failure modes and relies on electric power ans some controller. The IO-540 system does not require a fuel return line to the tank. Steve Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder / Cessna 170B flyer 766 SE River Lane Port St. Lucie, FL 34983 772-475-5556 cell - evenings and weekends ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 06, 2005
The Lycoming 360 series are all four cylinders. Is this the case with continental 360 series? Continental 300 series engines are six cylinders and produce 150HP, some versions might be more powerful, I'm not that familair with the Continental engines. The reason I ask the question about weight is related to the weight and balance issue raised under this tread. I have recently heard that Van's no longer support the use of the Continental 210HP option for the RV10. I haven't verified this, but just wondered if it is/was true if it was related to weight and balance if this engine is physically lighter than the 540 series Lycoming. Wasn't the Piper Turbo Arrow powered by a 210HP continental? M ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 > > Well, I just looked up the weight on a Lycoming IO360A3B6 as 333 lbs > according to the owners manual. I'm 99.94% certain the Continental IO360 > is > a bit heavier, but don't have a reference handy. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Lewis" <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> > To: > Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2005 6:26 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 > > > Hey all, > > RAS wrote: >> As a matter of interest, has anyone got the dry weight figure for the >> continental that Van's proposed to use as a 210HP engine option? I might >> stand corrected, but I believe this engine is a six cylinder and >> therefore doubt whether or not it is an awful lighter (in weight) than >> the 260HP Lycoming 540 series. > > If my memory serves from the research I did at the time, the Lycoming > dry weight was about 380lbs and the Continental IO-360 dry weight was > about 300-310lbs. > > Someone could probably recall the exact figures. > > Have fun, > Scott Lewis > RV-10 40172 > Adelaide, South Australia > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 06, 2005
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Yes the Continental IO-360 was a small six cylinder. Yes it was lighter than the Lycoming IO-540. No they do not support it after completing N220RV as a prototype demo. Problems were encountered with the engine mount, firewall forward package and cowling which did not justify further pursuit. No mention has been made on using the new IO-390X Lycoming... also lighter and 210 hp. Ian flies an RV and would love VAN to embrace the new kit build engine. Suppliers are waiting in the wings to deliver such a powerplant for the RV-10 with DYNA-1 mount and similar Firewall Forward package. No cowl mod required. Go Figure. John - KUAO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAS Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 The Lycoming 360 series are all four cylinders. Is this the case with continental 360 series? Continental 300 series engines are six cylinders and produce 150HP, some versions might be more powerful, I'm not that familair with the Continental engines. The reason I ask the question about weight is related to the weight and balance issue raised under this tread. I have recently heard that Van's no longer support the use of the Continental 210HP option for the RV10. I haven't verified this, but just wondered if it is/was true if it was related to weight and balance if this engine is physically lighter than the 540 series Lycoming. Wasn't the Piper Turbo Arrow powered by a 210HP continental? M ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 > > Well, I just looked up the weight on a Lycoming IO360A3B6 as 333 lbs > according to the owners manual. I'm 99.94% certain the Continental IO360 > is > a bit heavier, but don't have a reference handy. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Lewis" <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> > To: > Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2005 6:26 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 > > > Hey all, > > RAS wrote: >> As a matter of interest, has anyone got the dry weight figure for the >> continental that Van's proposed to use as a 210HP engine option? I might >> stand corrected, but I believe this engine is a six cylinder and >> therefore doubt whether or not it is an awful lighter (in weight) than >> the 260HP Lycoming 540 series. > > If my memory serves from the research I did at the time, the Lycoming > dry weight was about 380lbs and the Continental IO-360 dry weight was > about 300-310lbs. > > Someone could probably recall the exact figures. > > Have fun, > Scott Lewis > RV-10 40172 > Adelaide, South Australia > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2005
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Aircraft Jack Hard points
Has anyone tried installing Jack stand hard points on the main wing spar? I own a set of aircraft jacks. It seems like it would be simple to use an aircraft jack to lift one or both sides for wheel maintenance or installing fairinrgs etc. Steve 40212 Wings __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 06, 2005
From: Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Aircraft Jack Hard points
Make an adapter and jack on the tiedown rig! Jim 40383 -------Original Message------- From: Darton Steve Date: 11/06/05 16:36:43 Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Jack Hard points Has anyone tried installing Jack stand hard points on the main wing spar? I own a set of aircraft jacks. It seems like it would be simple to use an aircraft jack to lift one or both sides for wheel maintenance or installing fairinrgs etc. Steve 40212 Wings __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Aircraft Jack Hard points
Date: Nov 06, 2005
For wheel maintenance you just need to run a steel pipe inside the axle when the nut is off, then jack up the pipe (I think at least Avery, and maybe some others, makes a sweet little jack adapter that does this same thing), and then you can remove the wheel and work on it. To completely take the wheel off you can then prop up the axle and remove the jack and pipe (jack adapter). To jack up the plane when we were installing the fairings we just put a 2x6 under the spar in the cabin and jacked that up, but you have to make sure it won't tip side to side or roll forward or backward. In that case it would be nice to have a good spot to jack the whole thing up, but it really only needs to be done once unless you are going to be redoing the wheel pants. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Jack Hard points Has anyone tried installing Jack stand hard points on the main wing spar? I own a set of aircraft jacks. It seems like it would be simple to use an aircraft jack to lift one or both sides for wheel maintenance or installing fairinrgs etc. Steve 40212 Wings __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 06, 2005
No and Yes. The Continental 360 is an enlarged, beefed up version of the O300, six cylinder. I check with some Mooney 231 owners with the turbocharged Cont IO360. Wt shown on their W&B is 400lbs. Not an improvement if the Lyc IO540 truly is 380lbs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 The Lycoming 360 series are all four cylinders. Is this the case with continental 360 series? Continental 300 series engines are six cylinders and produce 150HP, some versions might be more powerful, I'm not that familair with the Continental engines. The reason I ask the question about weight is related to the weight and balance issue raised under this tread. I have recently heard that Van's no longer support the use of the Continental 210HP option for the RV10. I haven't verified this, but just wondered if it is/was true if it was related to weight and balance if this engine is physically lighter than the 540 series Lycoming. Wasn't the Piper Turbo Arrow powered by a 210HP continental? M ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 07, 2005
At the OSH RV-10 seminar, Ken Krueger mentioned that the IO-390x was not a possibility, as it would require a cowl modification. He also said that if they made this modification, they run the risk of some idiot putting in an angle valve 540, and exceeding the maximum recommended hp. Indran Chelvanayagam -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Subject: RE: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Yes the Continental IO-360 was a small six cylinder. Yes it was lighter than the Lycoming IO-540. No they do not support it after completing N220RV as a prototype demo. Problems were encountered with the engine mount, firewall forward package and cowling which did not justify further pursuit. No mention has been made on using the new IO-390X Lycoming... also lighter and 210 hp. Ian flies an RV and would love VAN to embrace the new kit build engine. Suppliers are waiting in the wings to deliver such a powerplant for the RV-10 with DYNA-1 mount and similar Firewall Forward package. No cowl mod required. Go Figure. John - KUAO ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net>
Subject: CHELTON AHRS
Date: Nov 06, 2005
Hello Group this is an open message to all that have or are getting the Chelton system installed in there -10 's there is a problem apparently with the AHRS unit from Crossbow click on the link below to check it out . Brian Bollaert #40200 http://www.direct2avionics.com/news.html ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Flap Position Indicator
Date: Nov 07, 2005
I want to feed the flap position to the AFS 2500 Engine Monitor. What flap switch/positioning system do I need in order to do this? Vans says the "ES FLAP POS SWV 10" will not send positioning data. Anybody done this yet? Roger Standley #40291 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2005
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
>No and Yes. The Continental 360 is an enlarged, beefed up version >of the O300, six cylinder. I check with some Mooney 231 owners >with the turbocharged Cont IO360. Wt shown on their W&B is 400lbs. >Not an improvement if the Lyc IO540 truly is 380lbs. Hmm, where did this information come from? The Internet is your friend:-) Rather than "I heard" and what some "owners" think, get it right from the source. A search for Teledyne Continental, then to their product page should take you here: http://www.tcmlink.com/producthighlights/ENGTBL.PDF Go down to where it says IO-360ES, move across to Weight Dry and you will see 305 pounds. And no, this is NOT the engine used on the Turbo Arrow, this is the engine used on the Cirrus SR-20 and Lancair ES. 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MDE5ZTFlNDc2NDc4YjcxNDhlMmU+XQ0KPj4NCnN0YXJ0eHJlZg0KNDAwOTENCiUlRU9GDQo= ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2005
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Bill, I'll grant you some engine differences, mainly lack of turbo. However, if you look at the TIO360LB/MB used in the K series Mooneys, Continental's table shows 343/327lbs(differing mainly in which turbo). Their table also lists those weights as basic engine dry wt, which would mean to me no accessories. The 400lb wt came straight from several 231(-LB engine)owners factory W&B, an FAA approved document. TCM also lists an O470R/S used in the Cessna 180 at 380lbs. Since that is the listed wt of the IO540, either Van's info is inaccurate or Continental's doesn't include full engine wt. Lycoming lists the IO540D as 381, http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=productSales/engineSelectionGuide/540.html Who knows whether you can believe either company as to the real installed wt? William Curtis said: >>No and Yes. The Continental 360 is an enlarged, beefed up version >>of the O300, six cylinder. I check with some Mooney 231 owners >>with the turbocharged Cont IO360. Wt shown on their W&B is 400lbs. >>Not an improvement if the Lyc IO540 truly is 380lbs. > > Hmm, where did this information come from? The Internet is your friend:-) > Rather than "I heard" and what some "owners" think, get it right from the > source. A search for Teledyne Continental, then to their product page > should take you here: http://www.tcmlink.com/producthighlights/ENGTBL.PDF > > Go down to where it says IO-360ES, move across to Weight Dry and you will > see 305 pounds. And no, this is NOT the engine used on the Turbo Arrow, > this is the engine used on the Cirrus SR-20 and Lancair ES. > > I've put together a page on "standard" engine options here: > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/20Engine/index.html > > William Curtis > 40237 - wings > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2005
From: "Jim Combs" <jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com>
Subject: Re: Flap Position Indicator
What kind of input is on the engine monitor for the flap position? Is the engine monitor expecting a voltage that is porportional to the flap position? If so then mount a potentiometer with some linkage to the positioning motor. I am going to do this but have not yet mounted the motor. Realy close to doing this though. Jim C ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2005 11:40:50 -0800 I want to feed the flap position to the AFS 2500 Engine Monitor. What flap switch/positioning system do I need in order to do this? Vans says the "ES FLAP POS SWV 10" will not send positioning data. Anybody done this yet? Roger Standley #40291 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 07, 2005
Subject: Re: Horsepower and Speed limits
Hi all, The MT Propeller would have a matching spinner and, if needed, a longer hub for the cowl. Same price and almost the same lighter weight. Now you know why Custom Aircraft Propeller was created as a division of Less Drag Products, Inc. BTW, I believe the Sam James Cowl for the RV-8 requires the extended hub Hartzell propeller limited to 3.8 G's. The MT Propeller for the RV-8 cowl has no aerobatic restriction. Regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 11/3/2005 6:24:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, toaster73(at)earthlink.net writes: Will it require an extension on the hub, if so there goes some more weight forward. -Chris Lucas #40072 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 07, 2005
Subject: Re: Flap Position Indicator
In a message dated 11/7/2005 2:54:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com writes: want to feed the flap position to the AFS 2500 Engine Monitor. What flap switch/positioning system do I need in order to do this? Vans says the "ES FLAP POS SWV 10" will not send positioning data. Anybody done this yet? You need a Ray Allen POS-12 sensor. The POS -12 has the same sensor as the Trim Servos. I need to get a picture of it mounted in one of Van's RV-10's. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems #40204 RV-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Turbocharged RV10
Date: Nov 07, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
100 lbs is not the correct amount. When you fly the 10 with one or two people. 25 to 50 lbs is enough. I fly a lot without any but it is just easier to land with the weight. Also I carry a tow bar, wheel chocks, extra oil, some emergency items and a flight bag. With all of that stuff in the baggage comp. you need little to no extra ballast. The 100 lbs that I mentioned is for the first flights when you are getting use to the plane. Then you pull 25 lbs out at a time until you are comfortable with it. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 A true statement except for the fact that, at least from what we've all read, the -10 is nose heavy and many have suggested ballast in the back when flying with only 1-2 people. Seems like Vans coiuld have done a better job at the CG and 93 pounds lighter would, in fact, be welcomed by most pilots. I'm not yet a builder (starting in January) but I, for one, would be happier to not have to load 100lbs of shot bags in the back when I want to fly alone. Seems like for $100 grand we shouldn't have to worry about that. I'm not promoting the Crossflow or any other engine. I wish the Innodyn were real and that one weighs a lot less than the Lycoming (188lbs). ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS <mailto:deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2005 5:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Rick, It's ver interesting to look at an engine that is 93lbs lighter than the engine the RV10 was'designed' for. Have you realised what this will do to a simple matter called C of G? As Van himself frequently has stated, the best coversion is $$$ into Lycoming. If you want a cheaper version of a Lycoming 540 that is also a couple of pounds ( not 93!!) lighter go for a damged R44 helicopter. Get one with the 11 hole optional panel and you get two BF Goodrich gyros, A KT76 Xpndr and a KX155 + 203indicator. The engines are belt driven in the R44's and seldomly get shockloaded. The also rarely suffer a sudden stopage which also leads to shockload inspection as per guidelines from Lycoming. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick Lark <mailto:jrlark(at)bmts.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 7:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Turbocharged RV10 Hi Folks; I've been following the Matronics and Yahoo lists (lurking), as I'm not a builder yet. I recently flew to Collingwood, Ont, (CNY3) and had in interesting conversation (with George ?) regarding putting a Crossflow Aero engine in an RV10 (http://www.crossflow.com/). These engines are based on the Subaru blocks incorporating liquid cooling and a PSR unit. There are several horse power variations 200hp, 250hp, 300 turbocharged etc. One really appealing aspect to me was that the 300 hp turbo was 93 lbs lighter than a comparable IO-540. Not withstanding other issues such as insurance, cowling etc, time will tell the tale how durable/reliable these engines are. Personally, by the time I need an RV10 engine, hopefully they are still around and have sufficient experience under their belts. As Jesse Saint aptly stated," Would I modify mine to incorporate that option? Show me some numbers and maybe I will!" Oh, and I was also told they are pursuing a certified engine with Transport Canada. Perhaps that will convince me of the viability of their engines. As well there is AES ( http://www.vaircraftengine.com/) in Florida, which was sold by Bombardier Canada. Check them out. =09 Regards, Rick Lark CGEKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2005
From: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Flap Position Indicator
<4367C88F.5030303(at)froody.org> <4367DE9B.2090603(at)MyRV10.com> Roger, I used a position sensor from the Ray Allen ( the mac servo folks). I mounted it to the flap torque tube between the arm where the flap pushrod hooks up and the side of the fuselage(wing root area). The sensor only moves a few inches or less, so it's necessary to find a place with the right ratio of flap motor movement to torque tube movement. Hope that makes sense! Mark.(40016) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 07, 2005
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharged RV10
>By all means make yourself happy with the powerplant. >If you like to fly put in an IO540. If you like to build >and experiment then put in the Crossflow/Innodyne/Chevy whatever. Huh? I thought that's why the FAA made us put in BIG BOLD letters, the word EXPERIMENTAL on our "pre-engineered solution." Some of us choose to experiment with panels and avionics, others with engines, and others with airframe. Would you accept it if someone chastised you for putting a "new fangled" glass panel in place of the "pre-engineered solution"? William Curtis http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject:
Date: Nov 08, 2005
Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage section on the 10. Thanks Guys Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: : RV10-List:
Paul go to: www.deemsrv10.com click on construction log and you will find a detailed account organized by plan page and step of how long I took on the Empcone. Bill curtis also has a similar log @ http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ Caution different people measure and account for their time differently, as well as some just work faster than others. Deems Davis # 406 Wing - FuelTanks http://deemsrv10.com/ Paul Walter wrote: > Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage > section on the 10. > > Thanks Guys > > > Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Time for full empennage completion
Paul, You should finish in exactly 254.5 hours. Just speed up or slow down your work on the last few steps as necessary to hit the target timeline. ;) Sorry, I just had to do that....you've already got some great replies. It will vary by an extreme amount between ends of the spectrum. I, like Michael Sausen, seem to build a little faster than most, but his time quoted for everything thru wings is way faster than mine. I'm guessing about 550-600 hours gets me thru the wings. Maybe 25--275 for the tail kit. Oh, and to put a perspective on it, when you finish the tail kit, figure that you're now maybe 15% done with the kit....I'm finding that these days I'm working harder and more diligently than ever, yet the stuff that you do AFTER the fuselage kit really makes all that initial assembly of parts seem lightning fast and lots of fun. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Paul Walter wrote: > Can some one give me an estimated time for full completion of empenage > section on the 10. > > Thanks Guys > > > Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: Canopy Dorr Trimming
Date: Nov 08, 2005
Question for Tim or any of the others working on or completed the canopy door trimming.... If I understand the comments and photos, the top and side lips form a "U" channel (to help water drain?) with the cut edge facing the door. The bottom appears to be cut lower - without a channel with the cut edge perpendicular to the door. Is this a correct assessment? I don't have my doors yet (finishing kit due next month) and wanted to get some of the heavy cutting and grinding out of the way before attaching the canopy to the fuselage. Any help/advise is appreciated. Photo attached showing what I believe to be the correct cut lines. Thanks, Byron Canopy mating to fuselage #40253 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming This is very hard to explain....and I can tell from your description that it's hard to interpret too. You're right, there isn't much guidance on that cut. What you kind of want is this: When you close the door, picture the cut face laying against the door itself. So in all cases almost, the angle of the plane you cut in, will match the angle of the inner surface of the door. On the bottom, I found myself cutting more than that, which was unnecessary........ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 08, 2005
From: rlaviation(at)aol.com
Subject: RV 10 tail kit for sale
Hello everyone, I have a completed RV 10 tail kit for sale. Price is 4,235.00 plus shipping and handling. Have lost interest in the project. Tail kit is being stored at Flight Crafters in Tampa, Florida. Contact Russell Lepre at 813-655-6411 for more information. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: RV 10 tail kit for sale
Date: Nov 08, 2005
That is a good deal for someone wanting to quick start a quick build! By completed do you mean fiberglass, rigging. no lose parts? I will keep my ear to the wall for you. Do you have photos? Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rlaviation(at)aol.com Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 tail kit for sale Hello everyone, I have a completed RV 10 tail kit for sale. Price is 4,235.00 plus shipping and handling. Have lost interest in the project. Tail kit is being stored at Flight Crafters in Tampa, Florida. Contact Russell Lepre at 813-655-6411 for more information. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Canopy Dorr Trimming
Date: Nov 08, 2005
Byron, I think we trimmed all of the channel so the flat would be up against the door. That actually helps seal the door as well. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron Gillespie Subject: RE: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming Question for Tim or any of the others working on or completed the canopy door trimming.... If I understand the comments and photos, the top and side lips form a "U" channel (to help water drain?) with the cut edge facing the door. The bottom appears to be cut lower - without a channel with the cut edge perpendicular to the door. Is this a correct assessment? I don't have my doors yet (finishing kit due next month) and wanted to get some of the heavy cutting and grinding out of the way before attaching the canopy to the fuselage. Any help/advise is appreciated. Photo attached showing what I believe to be the correct cut lines. Thanks, Byron Canopy mating to fuselage #40253 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Canopy Dorr Trimming This is very hard to explain....and I can tell from your description that it's hard to interpret too. You're right, there isn't much guidance on that cut. What you kind of want is this: When you close the door, picture the cut face laying against the door itself. So in all cases almost, the angle of the plane you cut in, will match the angle of the inner surface of the door. On the bottom, I found myself cutting more than that, which was unnecessary........ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flap Position Indicator
Date: Nov 08, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
I turned off the display of flap position on my 10. It is just as easy to take a quick glance out the window that it wasn't worth the effort to install it. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley Subject: RV10-List: Flap Position Indicator I want to feed the flap position to the AFS 2500 Engine Monitor. What flap switch/positioning system do I need in order to do this? Vans says the "ES FLAP POS SWV 10" will not send positioning data. Anybody done this yet? Roger Standley #40291 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Airwolf Remote Oil Filter For Sale
Date: Nov 09, 2005
For Sale: Airwolf Remote Oil Filtor for Lycoming IO-540. Cost new $450.00, sale for $300.00. New in box, never installed. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: troubleshooting - power loss
Date: Nov 09, 2005
Miles is correct. First, to diagnose a problem, don't try to combine things. If positive Gs cause a problem, that would be one thing. If negative Gs cause it, the answer is different. As nice a plane as the 170B is, it is only certified in the utility category, not aerobatic, so don't expect it to like maneuvers like sudden positive G pullup followed by negative G pushover. It is not intended for flying nap of the earth stuff either. JMHO, having owned a 170B for 18 years. KM A&P ----- Original Message ----- From: Bowen Miles To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 8:27 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: troubleshooting - power loss Steve, I've owned my stock-engined C-170B for 23 years, and I've never had nor heard of problem with power loss with a quick pull up. A remote possibility may be that you still have a composite carburetor float that was supposed to be changed to a metal one years ago. The problem was that they tended absorb fuel and sink over time, causing the engine to run too rich. G-loads could be causing the float to completely sink and flood the engine. Does the same problem also occur in a steep turn? Another possibility may be that you are low on fuel and unporting the tank outlet with the unusual attitude. Losing power when pushing the nose down quickly is a common phenomenon with carburetors. The float relies on gravity to do it's thing. Without gravity the float cuts the fuel supply to the bowl. Perhaps this is a bit off topic for the RV-10 list, so go try www.cessna170.org and click on FORUMS. There are a lot of folks following that list that may be able to help you more than me. You need not register or be a member to ask questions or get answers. Miles LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com wrote: ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Finishing Kit Questions
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet - aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start... Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Finishing Kit Questions
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . . TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet - aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start... Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Finishing Kit Questions
Date: Nov 09, 2005
Yip, hence the question... Do I need to get it ordered ASAP or is there a jig/standard spacing/??? that can be used instead? I don't mind ordering it but would rather not have it sitting around unnecessarily. I also notice that Van's web site says that Hartzell tends to increase prices on Jan 1 and that the price increase applies to delivery time, not order time. Based on the quoted lead time, anybody ordering now is already going to pay the 2006 price. Bob _____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . . TDT 40025 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet - aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start... Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 FWF Kit Contents
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
For those interested, here are the current contents of the FWF kit for an IO-540. I've asked Tim to post it on his web site for future reference. Bob #40105 FF-10 IO-540 F.WALL FWD.KIT IO-540 1.000 CT BLK THROTTLE 47 10 (I(O)-540) 1.000 CT BLUE VPROP 72.5 10 (I(O)-540)FWD GOV 1.000 CT RED VMIXTURE 51 10 (I(O)-540) 1.000 VA-182-PC KIT THR/MIX BKT IO320/360 1.000 VA-189 FUEL LINE IO-540 25.5 1.000 DOC FF-IO-540 TEXT/DWGS RV-10 F.FWD 1.000 EA EXH 10 I(O)-540 I(O)-540 VETTERMAN 1.000 VA-138 FUEL SUPPLY HOSE 14.0 F.WALL FWD.I(O) 540 F.WALL FWD.COMMON 10 3.000 CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE BLACK 2.000 DUCT CBT-5/8 COOLING BLAST TUBE 2.000 EA 4" DUCT HOSE CL 4" HOSE CLAMP 1.000 EA CV HOSE 7545 BREATHER HOSE -540 6.000 EA GASKET 77611 BLO-PROOF EXHST GASKT 4.000 EA J-3804-20 VIB ISOLATER I(O)-540 1.000 EA OIL COOLER 2000 OIL COOLER I(O)-540 1.000 ES ALTERNATOR 60A ALTERNATOR & BOSS MNT 1.000 FAB-360/540 FLTRD A/BOX-360 FI320 1.000 FF-1005 BREATHER TUBE 1.000 IE VMP INSTALL KIT FITTINGS/HOSES 1.000 PROP GOV MT P-860- I(O)-540 LYCOMING 1.000 VA-102 FUEL PRES. HOSE 15.5 1.000 VA-133 OIL PRESS. HOSE 27.25 1.000 VA-135 OIL COOLER HOSE 16.5 1.000 VA-168 SENDER MOUNT 1.000 VA-186 OIL COOLER BOX ASSY. 1.000 VA-187 4" FLANGED DUCT 1.000 VA-190 OIL COOLER HOSE 1.000 BAF-10-540 BAFFLE KIT IO-540 1.000 PT-035X1/4X4' LO PRES-BRKE RES.TUBE 1.000 SS304-26GAX1/2X9 SCAT CLAMP 1.000 VENT SCAT 2X3' RED 2" SCAT 3' LONG 1.000 VENT SCAT 2X6' SCAT TUBE X 6 FT 1.000 VENT SCAT 4X16" 4" DIA. RED SCAT HOSE 1.000 EA DYNA BOLT I(O)- MOTOR MOUNT BOLT KIT 1.000 BAG 516 RIVET AN426AD3-3.5 1.000 BAG 517 RIVET AN426AD3-4 1.000 BAG 518 RIVET AN426AD4-4 1.000 BAG 519 RIVET AN426AD4-5 1.000 BAG 520 MISC. AN BOLTS 1.000 BAG 521 MISC. WASHERS 1.000 BAG 522 MISC. FITTINGS/CLAMPS 1.000 BAG 523-1 FITTINGS/MISC. 1.000 BAG 524 MISC. CLAMPS 1.000 BAG 525-1 MISC/BEARINGS 1.000 BAG 526 AEROSPACE EXH HARDWRE 1.000 ZZZZZZZ EOK ZZZZZZ -----END OF KIT------ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Cutting the AEX
Date: Nov 09, 2005
My band saw blade decided to take a journey of its own when I was cutting the AEX Tie Down x 7.500 (beginning of the EmpCone section). Pissed, I shut down the shop and walked away, but now must determine what to cut it with. It just might be that my blade is lose, which I'll check tonight, but any suggestions please. I'm picking up a new part tonight at Van's. I have considered trying to salvage the thing, but I'd rather get it right. It would put some of the top rivets too close to the edge for my taste. And the part is only a couple bucks. John Jessen -328 Empcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cutting the AEX
In a pinch you can cut it with a hacksaw and get to final size with your 3M wheel. -Sean #40303 John Jessen wrote: > My band saw blade decided to take a journey of its own when I was > cutting the AEX Tie Down x 7.500 (beginning of the EmpCone section). > Pissed, I shut down the shop and walked away, but now must determine > what to cut it with. It just might be that my blade is lose, which > I'll check tonight, but any suggestions please. I'm picking up a new > part tonight at Van's. I have considered trying to salvage the thing, > but I'd rather get it right. It would put some of the top rivets too > close to the edge for my taste. And the part is only a couple bucks. > > John Jessen > -328 Empcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Cutting the AEX
Date: Nov 09, 2005
cut it with a 24tpi handsaw. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Jessen To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 7:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: Cutting the AEX My band saw blade decided to take a journey of its own when I was cutting the AEX Tie Down x 7.500 (beginning of the EmpCone section). Pissed, I shut down the shop and walked away, but now must determine what to cut it with. It just might be that my blade is lose, which I'll check tonight, but any suggestions please. I'm picking up a new part tonight at Van's. I have considered trying to salvage the thing, but I'd rather get it right. It would put some of the top rivets too close to the edge for my taste. And the part is only a couple bucks. John Jessen -328 Empcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Finishing Kit Questions
Date: Nov 10, 2005
Bob, Contact your local prop shop for an unserviceable (K or R flange) prop (doesn't matter about the blade type) earmarked for scrap, if you want to hang something in the mean time and keep your FWF set-up happening. -John #40315 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions Yip, hence the question. Do I need to get it ordered ASAP or is there a jig/standard spacing/??? that can be used instead? I don't mind ordering it but would rather not have it sitting around unnecessarily. I also notice that Van's web site says that Hartzell tends to increase prices on Jan 1 and that the price increase applies to delivery time, not order time. Based on the quoted lead time, anybody ordering now is already going to pay the 2006 price. Bob _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . . TDT 40025 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet - aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start. Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution
Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to attach to the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was enough material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's supply's material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that I need it in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends and the attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK. Here's a look at the end product. http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html Deems Davis # 406 Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution
I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you. Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be running through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a straight run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the sharp bend to go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks. Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure... -Sean #40303 Deems Davis wrote: > > Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I > installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans > (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I > gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to > attach to > the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able > to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining > clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If > the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown > in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding > through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was > enough material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make > another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional > length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's supply's > material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that I need it > in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for future > reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends and the > attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 > inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's > seemed to work OK. > Here's a look at the end product. > > > http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html > http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html > > Deems Davis # 406 > Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution
Yes, just what I thought. Check out the following picture of my tank... <http://rv10.stephensville.com/kit-images/wing44.html> -Sean #40303 Sean Stephens wrote: > I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you. > Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be running > through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a straight > run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the sharp bend to > go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks. > > Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure... > > -Sean #40303 > > Deems Davis wrote: >> >> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I >> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans >> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I >> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to >> attach to >> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able >> to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining >> clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If >> the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown >> in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding >> through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was >> enough material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make >> another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional >> length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's >> supply's material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that >> I need it in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for >> future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends >> and the attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark >> approx 1/4 inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the tube at that >> point, It's seemed to work OK. >> Here's a look at the end product. >> >> >> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html >> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html >> >> Deems Davis # 406 >> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks) >> http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution
Date: Nov 10, 2005
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Deems, I think Sean is correct. I inserted the vent line through the aft most rib holes too, and found the tube too short. A closer insepection of the plans confirms the the vent line goes through the second to aft most rib hole. Photo attached. cheers, Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to attach to the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. If the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way shown in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough protruding through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, There was enough material left over in the coil that was supplied, to make another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an additional length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when Van's supply's material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll find that I need it in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per plans, for future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make the bends and the attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK. Here's a look at the end product. http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html Deems Davis # 406 Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Jim Carlton <jcarlton3(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Carrying Long Items
John Jessen wrote: > I will do something along the lines of a lightweight mesh that > attaches to and extends from the bulkhead to the angled support you > are talking about, where it is also attached. Something that can > contain / cushion the skis. This will prevent the skis from bumping > anything or moving aft. Again, I'm think in terms of what the auto > folks do with their sedans that need skis to pass through the rear > seats. What needs doing, of course, is a W&B calculation for 4 sets > of skis, boots, poles to determine if you can get where you're going > within the envelope. > > John Jessen > -328 Cone just started Darwin Barrie is building a RV7 in Arizona and has used Coreplast (corrugated plastic sheets) as a box in the tailcone. He built a hatch through the passenger compartment for access. I have used this material to make shipping containers and it is very light and strong. Easy to work with. He has pictures posted somewhere, I just can't seem to find his site or address at the moment. He will use it to carry long R/C sailplane wings in his travels. This is on my short list of mods to the -10 tailcone, too. I'll post more as I find out more. Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution
#$ %#$% !!!!! I hate it when that happens, If I hurry, I can probably fix it before the Pro- seal cures around the fitting. THANKS for the catch!! Deems Sean Stephens wrote: > > Yes, just what I thought. Check out the following picture of my tank... > > <http://rv10.stephensville.com/kit-images/wing44.html> > > -Sean #40303 > > Sean Stephens wrote: > >> I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you. >> Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be >> running through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a >> straight run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the >> sharp bend to go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks. >> >> Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure... >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> Deems Davis wrote: >> >>> >>> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I >>> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans >>> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I >>> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans to >>> attach to >>> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely able >>> to make it with little or no line protruding through the retaining >>> clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as possible. >>> If the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from the way >>> shown in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave enough >>> protruding through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As is was, >>> There was enough material left over in the coil that was supplied, >>> to make another line of longer length, and I was able to buy an >>> additional length from a local aircraft parts supply. Usually when >>> Van's supply's material they don't leave any excess (perhaps I'll >>> find that I need it in a later section) so I cut it to 63 inches per >>> plans, for future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of inches longer, make >>> the bends and the attachment to the inboard rib fitting, and then >>> make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than the outboard rib and cut the >>> tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK. >>> Here's a look at the end product. >>> >>> >>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html >>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html >>> >>> Deems Davis # 406 >>> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks) >>> http://deemsrv10.com/ >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 09, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
THANKS Sean & Ron
Subject: Re: Fuel Vent line lenght - Caution- Mistake averted,
THANKS Sean & Ron I dashed out to the shop and undid the fitting took the line out cut it to exactly 63" reinserted it and the snap bushings (into the correct holes) and sure enough 63" works perfectly. Luckily I only installed the right tank today, I'll get the Left correct the 1st time tomorrow. Moral to this story: If your the only one with the problem..... then it likely - you're the problem. Thanks for the quick fix. This would have never happened on the Yahoo list!!!! Deems Davis wrote: > > #$ %#$% !!!!! > I hate it when that happens, If I hurry, I can probably fix it before > the Pro- seal cures around the fitting. > > THANKS for the catch!! > > > Deems > > Sean Stephens wrote: > >> >> Yes, just what I thought. Check out the following picture of my tank... >> >> <http://rv10.stephensville.com/kit-images/wing44.html> >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> Sean Stephens wrote: >> >>> I seem to think I might know why the 63" came up short for you. >>> Looking at your pictures, it looks like the vent line might be >>> running through the wrong whole in the ribs. If I recall, It was a >>> straight run from end-to-end for the vent line. There wasn't the >>> sharp bend to go more towards the "rear/top" of the tanks. >>> >>> Mine are closed up, so can't say for sure... >>> >>> -Sean #40303 >>> >>> Deems Davis wrote: >>> >>>> >>>> Don't know if I'm the only one to experience this or not, but I >>>> installed the fuel vent lines into the fuel tanks today. The plans >>>> (sec 18-6 step 1) tell you to cut the line to 63 inches (which I >>>> gleefully did twice). I then proceeded to bend the line per plans >>>> to attach to >>>> the fitting and the retaining clip, I found that 63" was barely >>>> able to make it with little or no line protruding through the >>>> retaining clip, this was with minimal bends and going as direct as >>>> possible. If the retaining clip was turned around 180- degrees from >>>> the way shown in the plans, it would probably work OK, and leave >>>> enough protruding through the retaining clip for peach of mind. As >>>> is was, There was enough material left over in the coil that was >>>> supplied, to make another line of longer length, and I was able to >>>> buy an additional length from a local aircraft parts supply. >>>> Usually when Van's supply's material they don't leave any excess >>>> (perhaps I'll find that I need it in a later section) so I cut it >>>> to 63 inches per plans, for future reference, I'd cut it a 3-4 of >>>> inches longer, make the bends and the attachment to the inboard rib >>>> fitting, and then make a mark approx 1/4 inch longer than the >>>> outboard rib and cut the tube at that point, It's seemed to work OK. >>>> Here's a look at the end product. >>>> >>>> >>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6.html >>>> http://deemsrv10.com/18-6s1-6c.html >>>> >>>> Deems Davis # 406 >>>> Almost done w/Pro Seal Hell (tanks) >>>> http://deemsrv10.com/ >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Finishing Kit Questions
Date: Nov 10, 2005
You can get a Hartzell prop hub from a prop shop for nothing. I have talked to a couple and they said they had some lying around that I could have, free. That would allow you to get your spinner back plate on and even get your spinner partly or mostly done without a prop. C2YR hubs seem to be pretty common. If you don't have the engine yet you could just hang a heavy weight to the engine mount to keep the tail in the air. You would want to support the tail for any work back there, though. I was amazed how cheap the engine mount bolts were and how expensive the rubbers were. Like $10.50 per bolt and $110 per rubber (I guess they must be pretty important, huh?). Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions Bob, Contact your local prop shop for an unserviceable (K or R flange) prop (doesn't matter about the blade type) earmarked for scrap, if you want to hang something in the mean time and keep your FWF set-up happening. -John #40315 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions Yip, hence the question. Do I need to get it ordered ASAP or is there a jig/standard spacing/??? that can be used instead? I don't mind ordering it but would rather not have it sitting around unnecessarily. I also notice that Van's web site says that Hartzell tends to increase prices on Jan 1 and that the price increase applies to delivery time, not order time. Based on the quoted lead time, anybody ordering now is already going to pay the 2006 price. Bob _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: RE: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions Prop is 10-12 week lead time . . . TDT 40025 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Questions I just got around to unpacking my finishing kit last night and noticed looking through the plans that the engine gets mounted and prop hung pretty early in the process (chapter 46). I haven't inventoried yet - aren't the engine mounts and bolts in the FWF kit? Also, do I need to get my prop ordered ASAP or can I use something else to support the backplate & spinner to align the cowling? Kind of seems like you need to have the prop and FWF kit almost from the start. Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2005
From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)AOL.COM>
Subject: Baggage door lock
For those of you who aren't installing a Magneto'd engine, and thus don't need Van's mag switch and baggage door lock set (that are keyed alike), I just tracked down a baggage door lock at that looks to be a straight replacement for the one Van's sells. At $4.67 each, I ordered two. W/shipping, total $15.29 If others are interested, I'll report on the fit. Riveting the bag door, and realized ya gotta put the lock in before you can finish it! Phil White #40220 in IL (fuse at 65%) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Pierce" <rpierce(at)bak.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Carrying Long Items
Date: Nov 10, 2005
I've been considering putting a door in the rear bulkhead and putting oxygen bottles behind it, possibly one on each side of the battery for balance. Is that something anyone else has considered? Some of the composite O2 bottles are pretty light weight. Roger Pierce Bakersfield, CA QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: RE: Carrying Long Items
Date: Nov 10, 2005
Hi, Have you considered the smaller version and mount them under the front seats, especially if you consider the composite ones, you can get pretty short with larger diameter. ----- Original Message ----- From: Roger Pierce To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 12:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: RE: Carrying Long Items I've been considering putting a door in the rear bulkhead and putting oxygen bottles behind it, possibly one on each side of the battery for balance. Is that something anyone else has considered? Some of the composite O2 bottles are pretty light weight. Roger Pierce Bakersfield, CA QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2005
From: James Ochs <jochs(at)froody.org>
Subject: Re: RE: Carrying Long Items
Randy has done pretty much exactly that in 610RV (#40400). He's got the Mountain High system with one large bottle attached to the backside of the bulkhead at the rear of the baggage area. I don't see any pictures of his setup on his site (yeah, I'm probably just too lazy to have found them) but I fully intend to plagarize his setup when I get to that point. It's a very very very clean install of the oxygen system... Randy, do you have some pics of that setup for the rest of us? ;) James Roger Pierce wrote: > I've been considering putting a door in the rear bulkhead and putting > oxygen bottles behind it, possibly one on each side of the battery for > balance. Is that something anyone else has considered? Some of the > composite O2 bottles are pretty light weight. > > Roger Pierce > Bakersfield, CA > QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 10, 2005
From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question
I am working on the last half of the fuse, and notice that there are quite a few places where there are holes or gaps in either the outside skin or between cabin and empennage. Just put the baggage door on, and see a 1/4" by 1 inch gap where the longeron meets the door frame. Noticed that the rear baggage bulkhead has V stiffening corrugations, which form triangular openings between cabin and the rear of the plane which is fairly open to low pressure areas outside it. The bottom skin where cabin meets tail has several 1/8" gaps in the corners. Are these gaps something I need to seal to have a quiet plane at 200 mph? Or are some openings desirable to allow ventilation and heating air to exit the cabin so new can enter? Should openings be limited to one, especially designed to give quiet air passage? If they should be sealed, what are you using? Foam rubber, glop, tape? What have you learned from flying one; Randy, Jesse, others? Phil #40220 in IL (fuse floors) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question
Date: Nov 10, 2005
Phil, Well, I have to admit that we were getting back seat passengers complaining of cold air coming in from the luggage area. We hadn't sealed the door yet, so we did so. They said it was still there. Then we realized that air was exiting from the hinge cavities around the door. We still haven't put the door seals on, but it is time for that. Air was being sucked from those areas and was being replaced by air from the back of the plane. I think it would be very hard to seal off completely, especially with the way the rudder hooks on and the gaps around the VS. We thought about sound insulation and just decided that it was much easier, cheaper and probably lighter to go with ANR headsets. Since we were going to be using ANR anyway, we decided that would be the way to go. The plane is loud with the headset off. It is quiet with the headset on. I imagine there is more noise from the 260 horsies than there is from the air around the little holes in the plane. In other words, I don't think I can offer any good advice on your question except to suggest that if you are going to try to soundproof the plane, you are going to be doing a lot of it. If you are going to be using ANR's anyway, then they will cut down on a little bit or a lot of noise, so take that as far as you want to. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil White Subject: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question I am working on the last half of the fuse, and notice that there are quite a few places where there are holes or gaps in either the outside skin or between cabin and empennage. Just put the baggage door on, and see a 1/4" by 1 inch gap where the longeron meets the door frame. Noticed that the rear baggage bulkhead has V stiffening corrugations, which form triangular openings between cabin and the rear of the plane which is fairly open to low pressure areas outside it. The bottom skin where cabin meets tail has several 1/8" gaps in the corners. Are these gaps something I need to seal to have a quiet plane at 200 mph? Or are some openings desirable to allow ventilation and heating air to exit the cabin so new can enter? Should openings be limited to one, especially designed to give quiet air passage? If they should be sealed, what are you using? Foam rubber, glop, tape? What have you learned from flying one; Randy, Jesse, others? Phil #40220 in IL (fuse floors) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question
Date: Nov 10, 2005
I concur with your advice; I was talking with the IA who performed the inspections on my C177RG. I took the sample package from B-quiet and discussed the pros/cons. Your major concern should be whether the soundproofing/insulation can attract/hold moisture. We also discussed the advice of the interior repair station on the field. There advice: except for the insulation on the firewall, the rest just adds weight, costs money and creates potential for corrosion. Hence I will insulate the firewall interior and use good noise canceling headsets. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question > > Phil, > > Well, I have to admit that we were getting back seat passengers > complaining > of cold air coming in from the luggage area. We hadn't sealed the door > yet, > so we did so. They said it was still there. Then we realized that air > was > exiting from the hinge cavities around the door. We still haven't put the > door seals on, but it is time for that. Air was being sucked from those > areas and was being replaced by air from the back of the plane. I think > it > would be very hard to seal off completely, especially with the way the > rudder hooks on and the gaps around the VS. We thought about sound > insulation and just decided that it was much easier, cheaper and probably > lighter to go with ANR headsets. Since we were going to be using ANR > anyway, we decided that would be the way to go. The plane is loud with > the > headset off. It is quiet with the headset on. I imagine there is more > noise from the 260 horsies than there is from the air around the little > holes in the plane. > > In other words, I don't think I can offer any good advice on your question > except to suggest that if you are going to try to soundproof the plane, > you > are going to be doing a lot of it. If you are going to be using ANR's > anyway, then they will cut down on a little bit or a lot of noise, so take > that as far as you want to. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > W: 352-465-4545 > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil White > Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 8:09 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question > > > I am working on the last half of the fuse, and notice that there are > quite a few places where there are holes or gaps in either the outside > skin or between cabin and empennage. Just put the baggage door on, and > see a 1/4" by 1 inch gap where the longeron meets the door frame. > Noticed that the rear baggage bulkhead has V stiffening corrugations, > which form triangular openings between cabin and the rear of the plane > which is fairly open to low pressure areas outside it. The bottom skin > where cabin meets tail has several 1/8" gaps in the corners. > > Are these gaps something I need to seal to have a quiet plane at 200 > mph? Or are some openings desirable to allow ventilation and heating > air to exit the cabin so new can enter? Should openings be limited to > one, especially designed to give quiet air passage? If they should be > sealed, what are you using? Foam rubber, glop, tape? > > What have you learned from flying one; Randy, Jesse, others? > > Phil #40220 in IL (fuse floors) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: Tail Cone Tube
Date: Nov 11, 2005
Here's what I did on my RV-8 for golf clubs etc. Note that the weight is on the rear baggage shelf, not the tube, so there are no CG considerations and the strength of the tube is not a critical. I would definitely suggest that an opening in the rear baggage bulkhead not be used, as in turbulence something certainly could end up back in the elevator bellcranks, maybe even from the front seat area! Pictures of my tube are on my RV8 website. http://members.cox.net/cjhukill/ Chris Hukill Working on tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Cylinder advise
Date: Nov 11, 2005
I am about to have to purchase some new cylinders for my narrow deck IO-540. I am going back and forth between Lycoming and ECI. Does anyone have suggestions one way or another? I have only heard one bad experience with ECI and that was when they were brand new. I understand that ECIs have a coating on them that helps prevent rust during the break in period. Not being an engine guy I would like all the advise I can get. Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland <http://www.cleavelandtool.com/> Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 2005
From: <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-10 Builders in Louisville, KY
I am in Louisville through Sunday and if there are any RV-10 builders nearby, I'd sure like to visit a project. Albert Gardner RV-9A N872RV RV-10 40-422 working on wings 928-210-9123 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Cylinder advise
Date: Nov 11, 2005
Hi Mike, try and get some advise from Mahlon on the Lycoming lists. I believe he works for Mattituck. Decent guy, very knowledgeable. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Lauritsen - Work To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 4:25 PM Subject: RV10-List: Cylinder advise I am about to have to purchase some new cylinders for my narrow deck IO-540. I am going back and forth between Lycoming and ECI. Does anyone have suggestions one way or another? I have only heard one bad experience with ECI and that was when they were brand new. I understand that ECIs have a coating on them that helps prevent rust during the break in period. Not being an engine guy I would like all the advise I can get. Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cylinder advise
Date: Nov 11, 2005
I just bought six new cylinder assemblies from ECI. They have a five year warrenty compared to everybody else of two years. My engine guy here in Lubbock (IA with 35 years experience and runs the largest maintance facility in West Texas) says that the only time their shop had a problem with an ECI cylinder they called and ECI shipped them out a new cylinder assembly by 2nd day air before they even took off the old cylinder assembly and sent it back. Best regards, Russ Daves ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Lauritsen - Work To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 10:25 AM Subject: RV10-List: Cylinder advise I am about to have to purchase some new cylinders for my narrow deck IO-540. I am going back and forth between Lycoming and ECI. Does anyone have suggestions one way or another? I have only heard one bad experience with ECI and that was when they were brand new. I understand that ECIs have a coating on them that helps prevent rust during the break in period. Not being an engine guy I would like all the advise I can get. Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 11, 2005
From: Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Cylinder advise
I put a set on my C-310 and had 400 hrs on them and they look as good as new. I put the original back on when I core exchange for new engines with TCM. I still have them and will use them on a future plane. I just had my IO-540 ovh by western skyways and had them put a set on for just that reason of rusting barrels if not flown regularly. I also had them put in a new ECI cam. My engine came out of a 1980 Aztec first run. Putting the fuselage to gether now but I'm coming up on a bunch of annuals so I'll be slowed down for the next two months. Pat Thyssen A&P IA Mike Lauritsen - Work wrote: I am about to have to purchase some new cylinders for my narrow deck IO-540. I am going back and forth between Lycoming and ECI. Does anyone have suggestions one way or another? I have only heard one bad experience with ECI and that was when they were brand new. I understand that ECIs have a coating on them that helps prevent rust during the break in period. Not being an engine guy I would like all the advise I can get. Thanks, Mike Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cylinder advise
Date: Nov 11, 2005
Mike, Where did you get your core? Starting the search for an engine myself and wondered about the salvage yards as a source. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Cylinder advise
Date: Nov 11, 2005
The rebuilder has all the paperwork but if I recall it was Air-Tec in Florida and his name was Dick. A customer and fellow RV-10 builder in California turned me on to this one. Mine is a C4B5 off of an Aztec. I would think with all the hurricanes now would be a good time to find one. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cylinder advise Mike, Where did you get your core? Starting the search for an engine myself and wondered about the salvage yards as a source. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Inertial belts
Date: Nov 11, 2005
Just got the sample 4 point harness with inertial reels for the RV10. We have been through two iterations getting the lengths/adjustments correct. There will be two sizes: regular and large. Regulars will fit backseat passengers no matter the size. Front seat occupants may require regular or large (additional 6" adjustment each side in lap belt). My son has not yet been able to set up the website as my work is done after his paying job. Soon we hope, particulars, procedures and colors will be available on line. We are currently evaluationg how to create the hardpoints and structure on a mounted lid without the interior mess. Question: Any suggestions on whether builders would like to inspect the sample. If so any suggestions on how to ship between builders at minimum cost and still track location are appreciated. Ideally I could ship it once to a builder who would ship it onward to another builder and eventually the sample would make its way back to me. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cylinder advise
Date: Nov 11, 2005
I bought my IO-540 engine core from Chris Baker at Premium Aircraft Parts, LLC, 1109 S. Quincy, Ft. Smith, AR. 72901, fax 1-800-889-9047. Paid $10,500.00 in August of 2003. Word of caution, make sure you get it in writing on the invoice that the crankshaft is guaranteed to overhaul (yellow tag/FAA form 8130-3) or replacement will be supplied at no additional cost. Also go pick up the engine and don't tell Chris or anyone from Premium break the engine case for you or remove the cylinders. You will want to buy the engine in it's fully assembled condition just like it was received by Premium. It is a lot easier to look at a fully assembled engine and tell you are getting it all instead of having parts thrown in a box and someone claiming that all the parts are there. I recently had to get together an unassembled engine that a buddy of mine had apart when he died and I spent months trying to go through boxes to identify what parts were there and what wasn't. Best regards, Russ Daves N710RV (Reserved RV-10 fuselage on main gear) N65RV RV-6A Sold ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hasbrouck To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 11, 2005 4:10 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cylinder advise Mike, Where did you get your core? Starting the search for an engine myself and wondered about the salvage yards as a source. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 11, 2005
Subject: Re: Cylinder advise
For what it's worth, I considered the same route. However, after considering the options, and pros and cons of the rebuild route, to include total price, I decided to go with a brand new engine (mine is coming from aerosport power). My rationale? If I don't know the life history of the core, and I'm building a brand new RV-10, why would I put an unknown engine on the front end of a brand new airplane I'm spending so much time and money building that didn't give me the best sense of security? Others may disagree, but the choice is obviously yours. Grumpy #40404 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question
Date: Nov 12, 2005
May I recomment Headsets, Inc.? The price is very competitive and the noise cancellation is superb. They mainly offer retro-fit kits for other headsets, but they have a version of their own. We are really happy with ours. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Subject: Re: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question I concur with your advice; I was talking with the IA who performed the inspections on my C177RG. I took the sample package from B-quiet and discussed the pros/cons. Your major concern should be whether the soundproofing/insulation can attract/hold moisture. We also discussed the advice of the interior repair station on the field. There advice: except for the insulation on the firewall, the rest just adds weight, costs money and creates potential for corrosion. Hence I will insulate the firewall interior and use good noise canceling headsets. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question > > Phil, > > Well, I have to admit that we were getting back seat passengers > complaining > of cold air coming in from the luggage area. We hadn't sealed the door > yet, > so we did so. They said it was still there. Then we realized that air > was > exiting from the hinge cavities around the door. We still haven't put the > door seals on, but it is time for that. Air was being sucked from those > areas and was being replaced by air from the back of the plane. I think > it > would be very hard to seal off completely, especially with the way the > rudder hooks on and the gaps around the VS. We thought about sound > insulation and just decided that it was much easier, cheaper and probably > lighter to go with ANR headsets. Since we were going to be using ANR > anyway, we decided that would be the way to go. The plane is loud with > the > headset off. It is quiet with the headset on. I imagine there is more > noise from the 260 horsies than there is from the air around the little > holes in the plane. > > In other words, I don't think I can offer any good advice on your question > except to suggest that if you are going to try to soundproof the plane, > you > are going to be doing a lot of it. If you are going to be using ANR's > anyway, then they will cut down on a little bit or a lot of noise, so take > that as far as you want to. > > Jesse Saint > I-TEC, Inc. > jesse(at)itecusa.org > www.itecusa.org > W: 352-465-4545 > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil White > Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2005 8:09 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question > > > I am working on the last half of the fuse, and notice that there are > quite a few places where there are holes or gaps in either the outside > skin or between cabin and empennage. Just put the baggage door on, and > see a 1/4" by 1 inch gap where the longeron meets the door frame. > Noticed that the rear baggage bulkhead has V stiffening corrugations, > which form triangular openings between cabin and the rear of the plane > which is fairly open to low pressure areas outside it. The bottom skin > where cabin meets tail has several 1/8" gaps in the corners. > > Are these gaps something I need to seal to have a quiet plane at 200 > mph? Or are some openings desirable to allow ventilation and heating > air to exit the cabin so new can enter? Should openings be limited to > one, especially designed to give quiet air passage? If they should be > sealed, what are you using? Foam rubber, glop, tape? > > What have you learned from flying one; Randy, Jesse, others? > > Phil #40220 in IL (fuse floors) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 13, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Test
Test, haven't received any list mail for a couple of days, unusual Deems ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Test
Date: Nov 13, 2005
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Quiet.. cause everyone is deaf from pounding rivets. John - KUAO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Test Test, haven't received any list mail for a couple of days, unusual Deems ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Spinner trimming.
Date: Nov 14, 2005
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on the prop. I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates installed. Does anyone have any good way to get the prop to rotate through it's pitch range so I can finish the trimming of the prop openings in the spinner? Thanks Ray Doerr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Spinner trimming.
I think the Van's plan is to clamp a couple of boards around the blade and make a lever that you can twist. I myself was able to use a Sears Strap wrench (rubber strap that goes around the prop and as a handle on it) and put a pad under the wrench on the prop surface. Anything that you can grip it with to turn it, with about a 12" or more lever length should work. Just clamp it with a big vice grips. ;) (JUST KIDDING) One other tip: This is something that will be MUCH better done if you attach the prop to the engine. It's too hard to hold the prop steady while you twist with that much force. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on > the prop. I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates > installed. Does anyone have any good way to get the prop to rotate > through it's pitch range so I can finish the trimming of the prop > openings in the spinner? > > > Thanks Ray Doerr ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 14, 2005
Subject: Re: Spinner trimming.
Hi All, I can't pass on this one. The MT propeller already has the spinner installed at the factory to match your cowl. When you get the propeller assembly, just bolt it on the engine. Best regards, Jim Ayers In a message dated 11/14/2005 9:57:58 AM Pacific Standard Time, Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson I think the Van's plan is to clamp a couple of boards around the blade and make a lever that you can twist. I myself was able to use a Sears Strap wrench (rubber strap that goes around the prop and as a handle on it) and put a pad under the wrench on the prop surface. Anything that you can grip it with to turn it, with about a 12" or more lever length should work. Just clamp it with a big vice grips. ;) (JUST KIDDING) One other tip: This is something that will be MUCH better done if you attach the prop to the engine. It's too hard to hold the prop steady while you twist with that much force. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on > the prop. I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates > installed. Does anyone have any good way to get the prop to rotate > through it's pitch range so I can finish the trimming of the prop > openings in the spinner? > > > Thanks Ray Doerr ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 14, 2005
From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Silicon for Al
I know it's been discussed before, but could someone tell me where to buy the special silicon or RTV not corrosive to Aluminum? Thanks, Sam Marlow Fuse Tim Olson wrote: > > I think the Van's plan is to clamp a couple of boards around the blade > and make a lever that you can twist. I myself was able to use > a Sears Strap wrench (rubber strap that goes around the prop and as > a handle on it) and put a pad under the wrench on the prop surface. > Anything that you can grip it with to turn it, with about a 12" or > more lever length should work. Just clamp it with a big vice grips. ;) > (JUST KIDDING) > > One other tip: This is something that will be MUCH better done if you > attach the prop to the engine. It's too hard to hold the prop steady > while you twist with that much force. > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > > > Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > >> I have the spinner trimmed enought where I am able to install it on >> the prop. I have all the holes to secure it drilled and nutplates >> installed. Does anyone have any good way to get the prop to rotate >> through it's pitch range so I can finish the trimming of the prop >> openings in the spinner? >> >> >> Thanks Ray Doerr > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: 5/8" holes in the F-1011
Date: Nov 14, 2005
What, pray tell, are the two 5/8" holes used for that one drills to size just above the F-1011E Rudder Cable Angle? (Page 10-3) I've looked ahead but I cannot find anything going through there. The implication is that the rudder cables go through there, but I don't see that. Reason for the question is that I sneezed while drilling out one of them, and it ended up 1/16" too big. Is there a snap bushing that goes in there? The other one is fine. John Jessen -328 EmpCone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Carrying Long Items
Date: Nov 14, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
I have mounted it on the rear bulkhead with the remote fill on the forward side. The bottle weights about 8 lbs for a 40CF bottle. I used only 600 lbs all the way to Osh and back. Mt high system. Call me for info if you want. Randy 800-547-1522 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Pierce Subject: RV10-List: RE: Carrying Long Items I've been considering putting a door in the rear bulkhead and putting oxygen bottles behind it, possibly one on each side of the battery for balance. Is that something anyone else has considered? Some of the composite O2 bottles are pretty light weight. Roger Pierce Bakersfield, CA QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: Carrying Long Items
Date: Nov 14, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
I didn't have my camera when the install happened. sorry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Ochs Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: Carrying Long Items Randy has done pretty much exactly that in 610RV (#40400). He's got the Mountain High system with one large bottle attached to the backside of the bulkhead at the rear of the baggage area. I don't see any pictures of his setup on his site (yeah, I'm probably just too lazy to have found them) but I fully intend to plagarize his setup when I get to that point. It's a very very very clean install of the oxygen system... Randy, do you have some pics of that setup for the rest of us? ;) James Roger Pierce wrote: > I've been considering putting a door in the rear bulkhead and putting > oxygen bottles behind it, possibly one on each side of the battery for > balance. Is that something anyone else has considered? Some of the > composite O2 bottles are pretty light weight. > > Roger Pierce > Bakersfield, CA > QB Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question
Date: Nov 14, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
I didn't fill them. They seem to just let the air out as fresh air is coming in through the vents. Randy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phil White Subject: RV10-List: Holes vs Noise vs ventilation question I am working on the last half of the fuse, and notice that there are quite a few places where there are holes or gaps in either the outside skin or between cabin and empennage. Just put the baggage door on, and see a 1/4" by 1 inch gap where the longeron meets the door frame. Noticed that the rear baggage bulkhead has V stiffening corrugations, which form triangular openings between cabin and the rear of the plane which is fairly open to low pressure areas outside it. The bottom skin where cabin meets tail has several 1/8" gaps in the corners. Are these gaps something I need to seal to have a quiet plane at 200 mph? Or are some openings desirable to allow ventilation and heating air to exit the cabin so new can enter? Should openings be limited to one, especially designed to give quiet air passage? If they should be sealed, what are you using? Foam rubber, glop, tape? What have you learned from flying one; Randy, Jesse, others? Phil #40220 in IL (fuse floors) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Wing Root Fairing - error in the plans?
Date: Nov 15, 2005
Chapter 44 shows all wing root fairing screw holes being dimpled. Some of these screws attach the fairing to the wing tank attach brackets which are not dimpled, per plans. Has anyone found this? Looks like the surface on the attach bracket is thick enough to countersink eventhough K1000-08 were used. Anh #141 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com>
Subject: V speeds for an RV-10
Date: Nov 15, 2005
Hi everyone. I'm currently building an RV-10, and though I have the general performance numbers on Van's site, am interested in a few more details that I haven't found anywhere. I understand that some of these numbers will vary between different planes/powerplants, etc. (and will be determined when doing my flight tests a couple of years from now), but am hoping that someone with a flying RV-10 with a "factory recommended" IO-540 (or someone who has done more research than I've been able to so far) might be able to help me out. Specifically, I'm looking for reasonable estimates for the following: - best rate of climb speed - best angle of climb speed - stall speed dirty (I suspect this is likely the 63 mph "stall speed" listed on Van's site) - stall speed clean - best glide speed (and typical descent rate when trimmed for best glide at engine idle) - never exceed speed - maximum flaps extended speed - typical approach speed you use Also, I've heard people say that the RV-10 is potentially nose-heavy, but I have no idea how much. I'm curious to try out different loading scenarios to see what I can expect. Does someone have any numbers they can provide for the CG envelope so I can run up some hypothetical weight and balance calculations? Even if you don't know estimates for all of the speeds I'm curious about, any you do know would help a lot. Thanks! Dan -- Syzygy Research & Technology Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: V speeds for an RV-10
Date: Nov 15, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Dan, A lot of what you're looking for is supplied in the Finish Kit manual. I am out of town but perhaps somebody else could send you the info. In addition to speeds there's several sample CG scenarios. I'll be back Friday late PM - if you don't have anything by then send me an email offline and I'll get it to you. Bob #40105 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Charrois Subject: RV10-List: V speeds for an RV-10 Hi everyone. I'm currently building an RV-10, and though I have the general performance numbers on Van's site, am interested in a few more details that I haven't found anywhere. I understand that some of these numbers will vary between different planes/powerplants, etc. (and will be determined when doing my flight tests a couple of years from now), but am hoping that someone with a flying RV-10 with a "factory recommended" IO-540 (or someone who has done more research than I've been able to so far) might be able to help me out. Specifically, I'm looking for reasonable estimates for the following: - best rate of climb speed - best angle of climb speed - stall speed dirty (I suspect this is likely the 63 mph "stall speed" listed on Van's site) - stall speed clean - best glide speed (and typical descent rate when trimmed for best glide at engine idle) - never exceed speed - maximum flaps extended speed - typical approach speed you use Also, I've heard people say that the RV-10 is potentially nose-heavy, but I have no idea how much. I'm curious to try out different loading scenarios to see what I can expect. Does someone have any numbers they can provide for the CG envelope so I can run up some hypothetical weight and balance calculations? Even if you don't know estimates for all of the speeds I'm curious about, any you do know would help a lot. Thanks! Dan -- Syzygy Research & Technology Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: V speeds for an RV-10
Date: Nov 15, 2005
You can try the following link. I drummed this up a while ago and have not done any real testing. It does give you an idea of what you can put where. http://hfc.sesincusa.com/hfc/n423cf/n423cf.htm Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Charrois Subject: RV10-List: V speeds for an RV-10 Hi everyone. I'm currently building an RV-10, and though I have the general performance numbers on Van's site, am interested in a few more details that I haven't found anywhere. I understand that some of these numbers will vary between different planes/powerplants, etc. (and will be determined when doing my flight tests a couple of years from now), but am hoping that someone with a flying RV-10 with a "factory recommended" IO-540 (or someone who has done more research than I've been able to so far) might be able to help me out. Specifically, I'm looking for reasonable estimates for the following: - best rate of climb speed - best angle of climb speed - stall speed dirty (I suspect this is likely the 63 mph "stall speed" listed on Van's site) - stall speed clean - best glide speed (and typical descent rate when trimmed for best glide at engine idle) - never exceed speed - maximum flaps extended speed - typical approach speed you use Also, I've heard people say that the RV-10 is potentially nose-heavy, but I have no idea how much. I'm curious to try out different loading scenarios to see what I can expect. Does someone have any numbers they can provide for the CG envelope so I can run up some hypothetical weight and balance calculations? Even if you don't know estimates for all of the speeds I'm curious about, any you do know would help a lot. Thanks! Dan -- Syzygy Research & Technology Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 15, 2005
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: Wingtips
Well it seems that Van's has resolved that problem with the wingtips being the wrong size. I've finally got around to installing the ailerons on the wings and after a preliminary measurement, it looks like it measures exactly. For all those who are not at that stage, if you measure the chord line of the wing tips and it is greater than 56 inches, the you have the old non-fitting tips. I received my wing kit last November so if you received yours after this, you are probably OK. William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: V speeds for an RV-10
Date: Nov 15, 2005
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Here's a spreadsheet on weght & Balance, based on the factory weight numbers in the Finish Kit plans: TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US SSA) Subject: RE: RV10-List: V speeds for an RV-10 Dan, A lot of what you're looking for is supplied in the Finish Kit manual. I am out of town but perhaps somebody else could send you the info. In addition to speeds there's several sample CG scenarios. I'll be back Friday late PM - if you don't have anything by then send me an email offline and I'll get it to you. Bob #40105 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Charrois Subject: RV10-List: V speeds for an RV-10 Hi everyone. I'm currently building an RV-10, and though I have the general performance numbers on Van's site, am interested in a few more details that I haven't found anywhere. I understand that some of these numbers will vary between different planes/powerplants, etc. (and will be determined when doing my flight tests a couple of years from now), but am hoping that someone with a flying RV-10 with a "factory recommended" IO-540 (or someone who has done more research than I've been able to so far) might be able to help me out. Specifically, I'm looking for reasonable estimates for the following: - best rate of climb speed - best angle of climb speed - stall speed dirty (I suspect this is likely the 63 mph "stall speed" listed on Van's site) - stall speed clean - best glide speed (and typical descent rate when trimmed for best glide at engine idle) - never exceed speed - maximum flaps extended speed - typical approach speed you use Also, I've heard people say that the RV-10 is potentially nose-heavy, but I have no idea how much. I'm curious to try out different loading scenarios to see what I can expect. Does someone have any numbers they can provide for the CG envelope so I can run up some hypothetical weight and balance calculations? Even if you don't know estimates for all of the speeds I'm curious about, any you do know would help a lot. Thanks! Dan -- Syzygy Research & Technology Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2005
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: RE: Harnesses
Anyone using seatbelt harnesses other than the ones from Van's? Can you share information about your source, including pricing? I'm looking at the Amsafe 3 point airbag seatbelt for the front seats. These will be pricey at about $1200-2000 per seat but should be worth it. Haven't found a reseller that will sell them to kitbuilders, but I have a while yet. http://www.amsafeaviation.com/inflatablega.htm For the rear, Velocity Aicraft sell a 3 point Inertial reel belt for $87/each. http://www.velocityaircraft.com/Velocity%20Store/interior_and_upholstery.html William 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 16, 2005
Subject: Re: V speeds for an RV-10
In a message dated 11/15/2005 11:50:31 PM Eastern Standard Time, Tdawson(at)avidyne.com writes: Here's a spreadsheet on weght & Balance, based on the factory weight numbers in the Finish Kit plans: Please re-send as a XLS file. Mine came through as an unreadable .dat file??? Steve Stephen G. Blank,DDS Port St Lucie, FL 772-475-5556 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2005
From: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Training
"Steve Chamberlain" , "John Chamberlain" , "Dean Birnbaum" Pictures from my RV-10 training up in Oregon last week. Went pretty good except for the tendency to flare at 50 FT. Looking forward to posting some pics of my first flight....... hopefully some time in Jan!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 16, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Training
How much does Van's charge for training? -Sean #40303 Mark Chamberlain wrote: > > > Pictures from my RV-10 training up in Oregon last week. Went pretty > good except for the tendency to flare at 50 FT. Looking forward to > posting some pics of my first flight....... hopefully some time in Jan!! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: Training
Date: Nov 17, 2005
Sounds characteristic of RV's and the light controls. I let the ground effect do 50% of the flare in my -6, somewhat unnerving at first. Anh ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Chamberlain To: Dan Beintema ; Wilmensink(at)aol.com ; rv10-list(at)matronics.com ; Steve Chamberlain ; John Chamberlain ; Dean Birnbaum Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2005 8:09 PM Subject: RV10-List: Training Pictures from my RV-10 training up in Oregon last week. Went pretty good except for the tendency to flare at 50 FT. Looking forward to posting some pics of my first flight....... hopefully some time in Jan!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Bearup" <bearup(at)ida.net>
Subject: MT 3-blade constant-speed propeller for sale
Date: Nov 17, 2005
I have a new three blade electric constant-speed MT propeller for sale. Included are the kevlar spinner assy., electronic controller, circuit breaker, and assembly . The propeller model number is MTV-18-B/183-17. It was purchased new in 2002 and never used on our GlaStar project. We have decided to install an NSI Subaru package which includes a CAP 200 propeller, so we have decided to sell this very nice propeller. It is new and still in its original box. It fits on an SAE #2 flange with 1/2 bolts (Lyc O-360, some O-320, and most Subaru propeller reduction drive set-ups). $7,000. Stan Bearup bearup(at)ida.net (208) 220-0837 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: 4 point inertial reel harness for RV10
Date: Nov 17, 2005
The website is not yet complete; however we do have some pictures available on line at www.inertialbelts.com. The AMSAFE belts come in additional colors but they have not been added yet. My son does my computer work gratis so putting up a proper website will be on his schedule. documented procedures exist for creating the hardpoints which can be done before (preferred) or after the lid is installed. The pictures show the approach to preparing the lid. There are two sizes regular and large. The large will provide an additional 6 inch adjustment each side of the lap belt. regular belts will fit all sizes in the rear. Prices are $275 each for two or less ; $250 each for more than two. My experience so far indicates that about two weeks are required from order to delivery. email me off list or 480-832-5295. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Michael Logan" <michael.logan(at)cox.net>
Subject: MT 3-blade constant-speed propeller for sale
Date: Nov 17, 2005
Are you really sure you want to put the NSI system on your plane? Now that they are out of business, what kind of support are you going to get? _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stan Bearup Subject: RV10-List: MT 3-blade constant-speed propeller for sale I have a new three blade electric constant-speed MT propeller for sale. Included are the kevlar spinner assy., electronic controller, circuit breaker, and assembly . The propeller model number is MTV-18-B/183-17. It was purchased new in 2002 and never used on our GlaStar project. We have decided to install an NSI Subaru package which includes a CAP 200 propeller, so we have decided to sell this very nice propeller. It is new and still in its original box. It fits on an SAE #2 flange with 1/2 bolts (Lyc O-360, some O-320, and most Subaru propeller reduction drive set-ups). $7,000. Stan Bearup bearup(at)ida.net (208) 220-0837 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 17, 2005
From: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Training
Sorry all!! My training pics accidently got sent to the list. By the way, the training cost about $125/HR( $75 for the airplane,$50 for the instructor). ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stan Bearup" <bearup(at)ida.net>
Subject: Re: MT 3-blade constant-speed propeller for sale
Date: Nov 17, 2005
Hi Michael Thanks for your concern. You are right that NSI is out of business, but the company has been restructured, re-named, and has new management that is gong hells bells to turn around the mess left behind by Lance Wheeler and his clan. Maxwell Propulsion will soon rise out of the hole and should be offering engine and propeller packages by the end of Jan. or early Feb. The company is now headed by a fellow GlaStar builder and NSI customer by the name of LeGrande Harris who is a very intelligent and business savvy professional who came out of retirement to take on the endeavor. He has hired a very skilled team of professional personnel who are all as honest and hard working as the day is long. Look for good things to come forth out of MPS in the not too distant future! Best Regards, Stan Bearup ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Logan To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 6:40 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: MT 3-blade constant-speed propeller for sale Are you really sure you want to put the NSI system on your plane? Now that they are out of business, what kind of support are you going to get? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stan Bearup Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2005 12:53 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: MT 3-blade constant-speed propeller for sale I have a new three blade electric constant-speed MT propeller for sale. Included are the kevlar spinner assy., electronic controller, circuit breaker, and assembly . The propeller model number is MTV-18-B/183-17. It was purchased new in 2002 and never used on our GlaStar project. We have decided to install an NSI Subaru package which includes a CAP 200 propeller, so we have decided to sell this very nice propeller. It is new and still in its original box. It fits on an SAE #2 flange with 1/2 bolts (Lyc O-360, some O-320, and most Subaru propeller reduction drive set-ups). $7,000. Stan Bearup bearup(at)ida.net (208) 220-0837 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wingtips
I got my wings this summer and I had to trim about 1/2" off each. Larry Rosen 40356 N205EN (reserved) William Curtis wrote: > Well it seems that Van's has resolved that problem with the wingtips > being the wrong size. I've finally got around to installing the > ailerons on the wings and after a preliminary measurement, it looks > like it measures exactly. For all those who are not at that stage, if > you measure the chord line of the wing tips and it is greater than 56 > inches, the you have the old non-fitting tips. I received my wing kit > last November so if you received yours after this, you are probably OK. > > William Curtis > 40237 - wings > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2005
From: "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtips
Larry, Looking at your site it seems you have the Quick build wings. Don't know if this make a difference but I had the Standard build wings. I can't imagine they would also send the the tips to the Philippines, but assume that they put all the parts of you QB wing kit together and then set them aside until the assembly comes back from the Philippines. Then even though you received you wings this summer, the parts were picked BEFORE the parts for my SB kit delivered last November. Wow, just checking the lead time on RV-10 wings is now 14-15 weeks, QB is 6-9 months. Just a theory so my statement below may ONLY apply to SB wings delivered November '04 or after. >I got my wings this summer and I had to trim about 1/2" off each. > >Larry Rosen >40356 >N205EN (reserved) > Well it seems that Van's has resolved that problem with the wingtips > being the wrong size. I've finally got around to installing the > ailerons on the wings and after a preliminary measurement, it looks > like it measures exactly. For all those who are not at that stage, if > you measure the chord line of the wing tips and it is greater than 56 > inches, the you have the old non-fitting tips. I received my wing kit > last November so if you received yours after this, you are probably OK. William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2005
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Aileron bucking bar tip
I finally found another use for the $pecial purpo$e bucking bar for the HS. It works great on the aileron skins to spar attachment. Here's a link: http://deemsrv10.com/21-6s2-4.html ps. I thought I remember a post from someone which mentioned that they didn't agree with the rivet callouts here. I second that: The plans call for 426-3.5's and I found them too short and went with 4's Deems Davis # 406 Finishing ailerons http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: HS Brackets
Date: Nov 18, 2005
Tim, I kept what I had. That's the short answer. For anyone else who's there now, Here's the rest of the story: I've attached all the pics I could find on my brackets. I originally cut them out upside down, and when I got the new piece I didn't cut the correct measurements. I'm sure you know that but I've included it as background anyway. My brackets are cut narrower than spec, and the only component that I could see that needed to fit between them is the Vertical Stabilizer attach bracket on pg. 11-5 Fig 4. The VS bracket should fit with room to spare (obviously) now. It doesn't appear to me that the HS brackets provide any support to the VS bracket, since that one is bolted to the HS front spar. The only thing I can figure is that my edge distance from the inboard holes to the bracket edge is smaller than the spec measurement, and it still "looks" like enough to me for structural integrity, so I'm comfortable with it. The HS brackets are bolted on as well, and since we're usually concerned with edge distance for riveting, I'm ok with the 8/64", or 1/8" narrower measurement at the forward edge. As you can see on pic 0836, since I've cut these brackets on an angle, I didn't lose the full 1/8" between the hole and edge, which makes me even more ok with my decision to keep them. I know I may have some gap in between the HS and VS attach brackets, but I don't think anyone will see it once it's installed, and I don't consider that a place of great aesthetic consequence. I didn't even think it necessary enough to call Van's on it since I still had "so much" edge distance. YMMV, and I'll take any advice from Van's if you do decide to call, even if I choose not to follow it. I know this is a long reply to a simple question, but wanted you to be in the loop on all my reasons instead of on blind faith accepting or rejecting my decision to keep my error. I sent this to the whole list but BCC'd your personal email. Rob #392 Proseal trim tabs ribs tomorrow! EmpCone _____ From: Tim Nash Subject: HS Brackets Robert, I read your email about the HS Brackets made out of the aluminum angle and thought I was reading about my own situation. What was the final outcome? Did you go ahead and use those brackets or make new ones? Regards, Tim Nash kit # 478 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 18, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re:Lead Time and Interiors was Wingtips
And 20 weeks lead time for the finishing kit. WOW I am going to need to place my order before the end of the year. I know of 4 options to finish the seats Flightline Interiors (Abby Erdmann) <http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/index.htm> DJ's Custom Interiors <http://www.cleavelandtool.com/rvinteriors/2005/RV10.htm> Oregon Aero Use someone local Are there any other options out there. Larry Rosen William wrote: > Larry, > > Looking at your site it seems you have the Quick build wings. Don't > know if this make a difference but I had the Standard build wings. I > can't imagine they would also send the the tips to the Philippines, > but assume that they put all the parts of you QB wing kit together and > then set them aside until the assembly comes back from the > Philippines. Then even though you received you wings this summer, the > parts were picked BEFORE the parts for my SB kit delivered last > November. Wow, just checking the lead time on RV-10 wings is now 14-15 > weeks, QB is 6-9 months. Just a theory so my statement below may ONLY > apply to SB wings delivered November '04 or after. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Re:Lead Time and Interiors was Wingtips
Date: Nov 19, 2005
Larry - I ordered the finish kit 2 weeks ago, and have been given a ship date of Jan 15th. This makes it 12 weeks lead time, by my estimation. Indran Chelvanayagam -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re:Lead Time and Interiors was Wingtips And 20 weeks lead time for the finishing kit. WOW I am going to need to place my order before the end of the year. I know of 4 options to finish the seats Flightline Interiors (Abby Erdmann) <http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/index.htm> DJ's Custom Interiors <http://www.cleavelandtool.com/rvinteriors/2005/RV10.htm> Oregon Aero Use someone local Are there any other options out there. Larry Rosen William wrote: > Larry, > > Looking at your site it seems you have the Quick build wings. Don't > know if this make a difference but I had the Standard build wings. I > can't imagine they would also send the the tips to the Philippines, > but assume that they put all the parts of you QB wing kit together and > then set them aside until the assembly comes back from the > Philippines. Then even though you received you wings this summer, the > parts were picked BEFORE the parts for my SB kit delivered last > November. Wow, just checking the lead time on RV-10 wings is now 14-15 > weeks, QB is 6-9 months. Just a theory so my statement below may ONLY > apply to SB wings delivered November '04 or after. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Aileron bucking bar tip
Date: Nov 19, 2005
There are other instances, in the HS for example, where the called for rivets are too short. After taking some call outs at first on blind faith, but then looking at the results after riveting, I'm now looking at the rivets before setting more as a builder and less as a paint-by-numbers assembler, which is where I started. It's a good reminder for new folks. These plans are wonderful, but there are a few errors. Tim has many listed, but I'm sure there are more. Another good use of the special purpose bucking bar is for the nose ribs of the HS, but maybe that's where you meant, Deems. If you're lucky enough to have someone help you, and thus don't have to use one hand for the bar and one for the gun, you can get great leverage with that bar. John Jessen -328 (10 day buildus interruptis from the EmpCone) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Subject: RV10-List: Aileron bucking bar tip I finally found another use for the $pecial purpo$e bucking bar for the HS. It works great on the aileron skins to spar attachment. Here's a link: http://deemsrv10.com/21-6s2-4.html ps. I thought I remember a post from someone which mentioned that they didn't agree with the rivet callouts here. I second that: The plans call for 426-3.5's and I found them too short and went with 4's Deems Davis # 406 Finishing ailerons http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron bucking bar tip
I have a list of the rivets that I used that were different than the call outs in the plans for the empennage / tailcone kit. You can find them here <http://rv10pilot.home.comcast.net/rivetuse.htm> Larry Rosen 40356 John Jessen wrote: > >There are other instances, in the HS for example, where the called for >rivets are too short. After taking some call outs at first on blind faith, >but then looking at the results after riveting, I'm now looking at the >rivets before setting more as a builder and less as a paint-by-numbers >assembler, which is where I started. It's a good reminder for new folks. >These plans are wonderful, but there are a few errors. Tim has many listed, >but I'm sure there are more. > >Another good use of the special purpose bucking bar is for the nose ribs of >the HS, but maybe that's where you meant, Deems. If you're lucky enough to >have someone help you, and thus don't have to use one hand for the bar and >one for the gun, you can get great leverage with that bar. > >John Jessen > -328 (10 day buildus interruptis from the EmpCone) > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis >Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 4:26 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Aileron bucking bar tip > > >I finally found another use for the $pecial purpo$e bucking bar for the HS. >It works great on the aileron skins to spar attachment. > >Here's a link: http://deemsrv10.com/21-6s2-4.html > >ps. I thought I remember a post from someone which mentioned that they >didn't agree with the rivet callouts here. I second that: The plans >call for 426-3.5's and I found them too short and went with 4's > >Deems Davis # 406 >Finishing ailerons >http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob" <bcondrey(at)cox.net>
Subject: Baggage Extension
Date: Nov 19, 2005
-----Original Message----- From: Susan Condrey [mailto:scondrey(at)cox.net] Subject: Baggage Extension I told somebody that I'd take pictures of Pete James' baggage area mod last weekend. Unfortunately I don't remember who that was, but they're attached at very low resolution. Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 19, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: 3 black knobs
I'm kind of starting to answer my own question, but if someone else has verification for me, I'd appreciate it. It looks like when you get the FAB kit with the FWF Kit (which REALLY makes you appreciate how the -10 kit instructions are, as the FAB kit is exponentially more confusing to read and visualize) you get a black knob control cable that would activate the trapdoor that closes off the air inlet. They give you a magnetic latch for the alternate air bypass. When you get the new service letter kit, it comes with a black knob cable, and it's supposed to operate a knife type valve on the bottom of the FAB. In the IO-540, since you don't need carb heat, it appears that you can get away with only the new knife style valve, if you are OK with leaving the air inlet open and not closing it off. That would make sense to me, because if you have the ability to completely bypass the filter, then who cares if the filter freezes over. So, for people who are doing the FAB kit and have the upgrade at that time, it looks like you'll be able to save significantly on how many parts you put into the FAB. It looks to me like the FAB might be about the worst part of doing the FWF kit. If they only updated the instructions to the -10 CAD-style stuff, I bet they'd save a lot of phone calls and head-scratching. Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Tim Olson wrote: > > Ok, I'm going to ask a dumb question.... > > With the FWF Kit, you get 3 black knobs. I assumed they were > for Front Heat, Rear Heat, and Filtered Air Bypass. > > Recently, with the service letter on the FAB, I got the FAB > manual bypass kit, that includes one black knobed cable. > This is a duplicate for me, isn't it? Or, is there either > one more black knobed control that I don't know about or > something else I'm missing? I'm assuming the only fuel > prime is using the electric pump on my IO-540. > > Engine Baffling is complete, wings with aileron trim installed > are going out to the hanger tomorrow, along with all the > other tail fins and misc. parts I don't need until assembly. > Now all that's left is the main airframe of the fuselage > at home. It's feeling a bit closer when you can finally get > some completed parts into the hanger. > > Tim > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Engine mount clearance
Date: Nov 20, 2005
Hi All I inspected a RV10 yesterday and noticed that this persons 10 also had about 1/16th clearance from sump to mount!! And yes it was a new engine from Vans! For your info ... Chris 388 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: 3 black knobs
Date: Nov 20, 2005
Tim, I don't have the upgraded service letter kit yet. Looks like we have an extra cable since we don't need the one for carb heat. Got to love the old FAB instructions. I spent 20 hours on the FAB and still waiting for the upgraded service letter kit. Remember when I had a hard time flaring my fuel lines? I spent 8 hours today uninstalling the two from the valve to the wing roots and made new ones. They came out fine. BTW, I sent a sample of the bad ones back to Van's when I first discovered it. They cracked at Van's also. Anh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 black knobs > > > I'm kind of starting to answer my own question, but if someone else has > verification for me, I'd appreciate it. > > It looks like when you get the FAB kit with the FWF Kit (which REALLY > makes you appreciate how the -10 kit instructions are, as the FAB > kit is exponentially more confusing to read and visualize) you get > a black knob control cable that would activate the trapdoor that closes > off the air inlet. They give you a magnetic latch for the alternate > air bypass. > > When you get the new service letter kit, it comes with a black knob > cable, and it's supposed to operate a knife type valve on the bottom > of the FAB. > > In the IO-540, since you don't need carb heat, it appears that you > can get away with only the new knife style valve, if you are OK > with leaving the air inlet open and not closing it off. That would > make sense to me, because if you have the ability to completely > bypass the filter, then who cares if the filter freezes over. > So, for people who are doing the FAB kit and have the upgrade > at that time, it looks like you'll be able to save significantly > on how many parts you put into the FAB. > > It looks to me like the FAB might be about the worst part of doing > the FWF kit. If they only updated the instructions to the -10 > CAD-style stuff, I bet they'd save a lot of phone calls and > head-scratching. > > Tim > > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > > > Tim Olson wrote: >> >> Ok, I'm going to ask a dumb question.... >> >> With the FWF Kit, you get 3 black knobs. I assumed they were >> for Front Heat, Rear Heat, and Filtered Air Bypass. >> >> Recently, with the service letter on the FAB, I got the FAB >> manual bypass kit, that includes one black knobed cable. >> This is a duplicate for me, isn't it? Or, is there either >> one more black knobed control that I don't know about or >> something else I'm missing? I'm assuming the only fuel >> prime is using the electric pump on my IO-540. >> >> Engine Baffling is complete, wings with aileron trim installed >> are going out to the hanger tomorrow, along with all the >> other tail fins and misc. parts I don't need until assembly. >> Now all that's left is the main airframe of the fuselage >> at home. It's feeling a bit closer when you can finally get >> some completed parts into the hanger. >> >> Tim >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Flap Position Indicator
Date: Nov 20, 2005
Hi Rob, A picture of the POS -12 in Van's RV-10 would be a great help. Thank you. Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: RobHickman(at)aol.com<mailto:RobHickman(at)aol.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 4:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Position Indicator In a message dated 11/7/2005 2:54:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com writes: want to feed the flap position to the AFS 2500 Engine Monitor. What flap switch/positioning system do I need in order to do this? Vans says the "ES FLAP POS SWV 10" will not send positioning data. Anybody done this yet? You need a Ray Allen POS-12 sensor. The POS -12 has the same sensor as the Trim Servos. I need to get a picture of it mounted in one of Van's RV-10's. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems #40204 RV-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Flap Position Indicator
Date: Nov 20, 2005
Hi Rob, A picture of the POS -12 in Van's RV-10 would be a great help. Thank you. Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: RobHickman(at)aol.com<mailto:RobHickman(at)aol.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 4:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Position Indicator In a message dated 11/7/2005 2:54:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, jimc(at)mail.infra-read.com writes: want to feed the flap position to the AFS 2500 Engine Monitor. What flap switch/positioning system do I need in order to do this? Vans says the "ES FLAP POS SWV 10" will not send positioning data. Anybody done this yet? You need a Ray Allen POS-12 sensor. The POS -12 has the same sensor as the Trim Servos. I need to get a picture of it mounted in one of Van's RV-10's. Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems #40204 RV-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2005
From: "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: Re: Wingtips
This was a bit premature. It seems Van's "fixed" the wingtips a little too well. Instead of the wingtips being 1/2 inch too long as some have mentioned, mine are about 1/4 inch too SHORT. Oh well, it should be easier to add 1/4 than to remove 1/2 inch. Maybe I'll add some winglets:-) http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings99m.html > Well it seems that Van's has resolved that problem with the wingtips > being the wrong size. I've finally got around to installing the > ailerons on the wings and after a preliminary measurement, it looks > like it measures exactly. For all those who are not at that stage, if > you measure the chord line of the wing tips and it is greater than 56 > inches, the you have the old non-fitting tips. I received my wing kit > last November so if you received yours after this, you are probably OK. William Curtis 40237 - wings http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 3 black knobs
Date: Nov 21, 2005
From: "Millsap, Dennis" <MILLSAPD(at)mail.ecu.edu>
Speaking of fuel lines... I struggled with the aluminum fuel lines in the RV-6A until one day I had enough. I was taxi testing the plane when ANOTHER fuel leak popped up in the cockpit! My feet were dangling in a pool of AVGAS. That was it. I flew into a rage that my wife still finds comical. I took a pair of dikes and cut the fuel lines out of the cockpit about 6 inches at a time. I was flinging them with great gusto as I cut each one. All the while, I was mumbling about the fact that everything has to be difficult when you're building a plane. After a little cooling down time, I sat down and pondered the issue a little more lucidly. My question was: How do they make fuel systems in millions of cars that are nearly bullet proof? They use EFI rubber hose with simple and cheap clamps. So, that's what I did. I had to go get different connectors for the tank and for the fuel valve, but the installation was simple, painless and after 430+ flight hours, bullet proof! Yes, it weighs more, but I also don't have leaks in the cockpit anymore. I'll do the same thing in the RV-10 because I don't like the aluminum tubes or the headaches they create. FWIW. Dennis Millsap N464DM RV-6A 40112 (RV-10) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Fuel lines ( was 3 black knobs )
Date: Nov 21, 2005
Nice information. I've often wondered why an alternative wasn't used. If anyone knows why the solid aluminum lines are usually used, other than weight, I'd like to hear about it. Also, I've changed the heading to make it more appropriate to the topic. John Jessen -328 (in 3 weeks of buildus interruptus mode) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Millsap, Dennis Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 black knobs Speaking of fuel lines. I struggled with the aluminum fuel lines in the RV-6A until one day I had enough. I was taxi testing the plane when ANOTHER fuel leak popped up in the cockpit! My feet were dangling in a pool of AVGAS. That was it. I flew into a rage that my wife still finds comical. I took a pair of dikes and cut the fuel lines out of the cockpit about 6 inches at a time. I was flinging them with great gusto as I cut each one. All the while, I was mumbling about the fact that everything has to be difficult when you're building a plane. After a little cooling down time, I sat down and pondered the issue a little more lucidly. My question was: How do they make fuel systems in millions of cars that are nearly bullet proof? They use EFI rubber hose with simple and cheap clamps. So, that's what I did. I had to go get different connectors for the tank and for the fuel valve, but the installation was simple, painless and after 430+ flight hours, bullet proof! Yes, it weighs more, but I also don't have leaks in the cockpit anymore. I'll do the same thing in the RV-10 because I don't like the aluminum tubes or the headaches they create. FWIW. Dennis Millsap N464DM RV-6A 40112 (RV-10) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2005
From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Static Line
For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. Sam Fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Andrew Barker" <Andrew(at)trutrakap.com>
Subject: RV-10 First Flight
Date: Nov 21, 2005
Just thought I would drop a note to the list that our RV-10 (N910TS) flew for the first time on Friday, November 18. What a beautiful machine. Andrew Barker General Manager TruTrak Flight Systems PH: 479-751-0250 Ext.222 Toll Free: 1-866-TruTrak www.trutrakap.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob" <bcondrey(at)cox.net>
Subject: Static Line
Date: Nov 21, 2005
The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. I have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then transitioned from Tygon to standard static line. Bob #40105 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Subject: RV10-List: Static Line For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. Sam Fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2005
From: Kent Jones <kjones(at)Bost.org>
Subject: Re: RV-10 First Flight
Andrew, Congradulations! I am located in Fort Smith, AR and working on QB fuse. and wings. I also have an engine on order from BPA Engines in Tulsa, and am very interested in your cowling modification. Also, I am using your AP and currently have pitch and aileron servos through Stein. I have visited your shop once. It would be great now to visit you and N910TS. Any day/time that would be most convenient before the holidays? Regards, Kent C. Jones SN # 40296 (479) 478-5550 day (479) 646-9933 evening Andrew Barker wrote: > > Just thought I would drop a note to the list that our RV-10 (N910TS) > flew for the first time on Friday, November 18. What a beautiful > machine. > > Andrew Barker > General Manager > TruTrak Flight Systems > PH: 479-751-0250 Ext.222 > Toll Free: 1-866-TruTrak > www.trutrakap.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2005
From: Kent Jones <kjones(at)Bost.org>
Subject: Re: RV-10 First Flight
Andrew, Congratulations! I am located in Fort Smith, AR and working on RV 10 QB fuse. and wings. Also have on order an engine from BPA Engines in Tulsa, and very interested in your cowling modification. Is there any day/time that may be convenient for me to visit you and your N910TS before January? I have been to your shop once before. Also, I will be using your AP, and am currently installing your servos purchased through Stein. Regards, Kent C. Jones Fort Smith, AR SN# 40296 (479) 478-5550 day (479) 646-9933 evenings Andrew Barker wrote: > > Just thought I would drop a note to the list that our RV-10 (N910TS) > flew for the first time on Friday, November 18. What a beautiful > machine. > > Andrew Barker > General Manager > TruTrak Flight Systems > PH: 479-751-0250 Ext.222 > Toll Free: 1-866-TruTrak > www.trutrakap.com > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 21, 2005
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Static Line
How have builders fastened the tubing to the barbs on the ports and Ts? -Sean #40303 (wing top skins, still...) Bob wrote: > > The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. I > have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then transitioned from > Tygon to standard static line. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow > Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 8:23 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Static Line > > > For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear > ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, > or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to > the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a > connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any > ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. > Sam > Fuse > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuse Bottom Skins
Date: Nov 22, 2005
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Completed the rib to fuse bulkhead attachment last night and started cleocing the F-1077 and F-1076 bottom skins to the rib/bulkhead assy. Plans say to flute the F-1015 ribs but not the F-1018 ribs. When clecoing the skins, the holes lined up fine on the F-1015, but the 1018s did not go anywhere near matching the curve of the skins (up to 1/2" misalignment). I was thinking of removing the skins and fluting the 1018s. However, after clecoing each hole of the 1018 to the 1076 skin, the ribs pulled to the contour of the skin quite nicely and fluting does not seem necessary. Did anyone else experience this, or find the need to flute the 1018s? cheers, Ron #187 fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: HS cradle
Date: Nov 21, 2005
Hi,this are tips and pictures for the beeginers(like me)its a tip how have a cradle call for the HS I did with the shipping box,its working perfect,a single person can handle the complete assy. from one side of the table,. May be it is not so important ,but I fill to share with the just start dreamers,I send the same pictures to Van's ,may be he can design the templates in the cover of the shipp. box ,and help a little more without expenses(and recycling)(no response) any way here are the pictures ,if any body like the idea I can follow some mesurments will make work better. Hugo #40456 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static Line
Date: Nov 21, 2005
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sean, Tygon is 1/4" ID and will slip right onto the barbed ends (on the Cleaveland static ports) and also the tee that they can supply. I then slipped the 1/4" OD static line into the 1/4" ID Tygon and secured with a small clamp. I have the tee a few inches above the static port location on the bulkhead to help keep moisture out. Clamp where the Tygon joins the regular 1/4" OD static line is probably not necessary but I plan on minimal trips back that far into the tailcone... Bob #40105 Finish Kit -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Line How have builders fastened the tubing to the barbs on the ports and Ts? -Sean #40303 (wing top skins, still...) Bob wrote: > > The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. I > have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then transitioned from > Tygon to standard static line. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow > Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 8:23 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Static Line > > > For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear > ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, > or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to > the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a > connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any > ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. > Sam > Fuse > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Static Line
Date: Nov 21, 2005
There is another alternative which I did not think of until I pulled the air lines forward. On my Cardinal the static ports were on each side of the fuselage just forward of the cabin. This will save a lot of grief pulling air lines through the fuselage. Its also a lot nicer using the aluminum inserts rather than the blind rivet approach. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static Line > > > Sean, > > Tygon is 1/4" ID and will slip right onto the barbed ends (on the > Cleaveland static ports) and also the tee that they can supply. I then > slipped the 1/4" OD static line into the 1/4" ID Tygon and secured with > a small clamp. I have the tee a few inches above the static port > location on the bulkhead to help keep moisture out. Clamp where the > Tygon joins the regular 1/4" OD static line is probably not necessary > but I plan on minimal trips back that far into the tailcone... > > Bob #40105 > Finish Kit > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens > Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 5:57 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Line > > > How have builders fastened the tubing to the barbs on the ports and Ts? > > -Sean #40303 (wing top skins, still...) > > Bob wrote: >> >> The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. > I >> have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then > transitioned from >> Tygon to standard static line. >> >> Bob #40105 >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >> Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 8:23 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Static Line >> >> >> >> For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear >> ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the > panel, >> or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to >> the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for > a >> connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any >> ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. >> Sam >> Fuse >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2005
From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Static Line
Where do I find Tygon tubing and fittings? Bob wrote: > >The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. I >have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then transitioned from >Tygon to standard static line. > >Bob #40105 > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 8:23 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Static Line > > >For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear >ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, >or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to >the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a >connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any >ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. >Sam >Fuse > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Static Line
Common stuff http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/tygon.php http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/hosetubefit.php Sam Marlow wrote: > Where do I find Tygon tubing and fittings? > > Bob wrote: > >> >>The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. I >>have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then transitioned from >>Tygon to standard static line. >> >>Bob #40105 >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow >>Sent: Monday, November 21, 2005 8:23 AM >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RV10-List: Static Line >> >> >> >>For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear >>ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, >>or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to >>the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a >>connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any >>ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. >>Sam >>Fuse >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static Line
Date: Nov 22, 2005
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
You can find Tygon tubing and fittings, and everything else you need to build an airplane, at Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/ Ask for their catalog. It's free, and in addition to having information on all the stuff they carry, there is a wealth of good information on aircraft hardware and materials. No homebuilder should be without it. They ain't cheap, though. Jack Phillips Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP (Scratch-Built) RV-4 N18LR RV-10 Builder Wannabe -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Line Where do I find Tygon tubing and fittings? Bob wrote: The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. I have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then transitioned from Tygon to standard static line. Bob #40105 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2005
From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Static lines
Sam: I have the Cleaveland ports and tubing, and they are a tough fit. I finally found that soaking the tubing in hot water would soften it enough to allow me to force it onto the barbed tee and ports. It was a pain tho. Phil #40220 Fuse > From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> > Subject: RV10-List: Static Line > > > For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear > ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, > or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to > the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a > connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any > ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. > Sam > Fuse > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Static Line
Date: Nov 22, 2005
We sell it! http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberTFT12 http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberTF140 Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Line Where do I find Tygon tubing and fittings? Bob wrote: The ports from Cleaveland have barbs that go to 1/4" ID Tygon tubing. I have those and used Tygon from each port to a tee and then transitioned from Tygon to standard static line. Bob #40105 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Subject: RV10-List: Static Line For you guy's that have already run your static lines from the rear ports, did you run two separate lines, one from each side to the panel, or did you use a "T" in the rear of the fuse and use a common line to the panel? I also have the flush mounted static ports, with a barb for a connection, that is too large for the 1/4 inch line to attach, any ideas? I think there Safe-Air flush ports. Sam Fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 22, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: 3-lever instructions
Bruce from Van's was great and provided me with the drawings for section 31 and 41 (named 31Q and 41Q if you use the quadrant), so my needs are now met, other than for section FF3 (firewall Forward kit section 3). Just as a heads up to people working into their fuselage, if you're going to get the quadrant, there are some minor changes in section 31 and 41. Those were pretty obvious once I went to install the quadrant. I'm not yet sure what the changes are ahead of the firewall though, so if you're ahead of me and know, I'd love to hear. Looking forward to 4 solid days of building coming up! Tim Tim Olson wrote: > > Is there anyone who has the 3-lever throttle control > instructions/plans, that would be willing to either photocopy and > fax them, or take a hi-res digital photo and email them to me? > I got the kit a while back in about May, before they had instructions > ready, but the instructions are now done and I've never > got them. Just noticed that last night as I was going > to hook them up and the cable lengths are different. > Van's has them in 11x17", but they're not sure if they > have a way to send them to me electronically. If anyone > could help with that, I'd be greatful. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ignition wire gromets for baffle pass through.
Date: Nov 22, 2005
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Thank You Ray Doerr CDNI Principal Engineer Sprint PCS 16020 West 113th Street Lenexa, KS 66219 Mailstop KSLNXK0101 (913) 859-1414 (Office) (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) (913) 859-1234 (Fax) Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com Does anyone have a part number and source for the ignition wire pass through grommets that will fit the 3/4" wide oval slot that they have you cut in the back engine baffles? Thanks Ray Doerr 40250 Half done with engine baffles. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuse Bottom Skins
Date: Nov 23, 2005
Checked the flanges of the F-1018s last night and found that they were 'naturally fluted' (ie scrunched up and looked like crap) after forcing them to the curve of the skins without fluting. I would recommend that you follow Rick's advice and flute these ribs the same as the F-1015s. Surprised it's not in the plans, but I have noticed a number of errors in the fuse plans . . . Ron -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Bottom Skins Completed the rib to fuse bulkhead attachment last night and started cleocing the F-1077 and F-1076 bottom skins to the rib/bulkhead assy. Plans say to flute the F-1015 ribs but not the F-1018 ribs. When clecoing the skins, the holes lined up fine on the F-1015, but the 1018s did not go anywhere near matching the curve of the skins (up to 1/2" misalignment). I was thinking of removing the skins and fluting the 1018s. However, after clecoing each hole of the 1018 to the 1076 skin, the ribs pulled to the contour of the skin quite nicely and fluting does not seem necessary. Did anyone else experience this, or find the need to flute the 1018s? cheers, Ron #187 fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Fuse Bottom Skins
Date: Nov 22, 2005
Just riveted this section together last weekend. I did not flute at first and noticed they did not line up well when clecoing and if you did install the cleco's it really seemed to bow the ribs. I removed the outboard ribs and fluted them to get a curve. Lined up much nicer. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Bottom Skins Completed the rib to fuse bulkhead attachment last night and started cleocing the F-1077 and F-1076 bottom skins to the rib/bulkhead assy. Plans say to flute the F-1015 ribs but not the F-1018 ribs. When clecoing the skins, the holes lined up fine on the F-1015, but the 1018s did not go anywhere near matching the curve of the skins (up to 1/2" misalignment). I was thinking of removing the skins and fluting the 1018s. However, after clecoing each hole of the 1018 to the 1076 skin, the ribs pulled to the contour of the skin quite nicely and fluting does not seem necessary. Did anyone else experience this, or find the need to flute the 1018s? cheers, Ron #187 fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject:
Date: Nov 23, 2005
$0.0146 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: RV-10 Calendar Pages
Date: Nov 23, 2005
Sir Tim, Attached are two new RV-10 calendar pages. Feel free to post them. Need MORE Rv-10 Pics too! Later, Jim C ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: RV-10 Calendar Pages
Date: Nov 23, 2005
Didn't mean to send the calendar pages to the entire list, Sorry about that. Jim Combs ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2005
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine Istall
Could someone tell me at what point in the construction sequence the engine need to be installed? How much work is left after that? I am trying to determine exactly when I need to have the engine on hand. thanks Niko 40188 Halfway through fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Engine Istall
Date: Nov 23, 2005
Niko, Where in the build process you mount the engine will determine how much work is left after that. You can really put it on as soon as you get your gear on, but it doesn't have to on until everything else is done except the cowling. Most guys like to get it on, it seems, as soon as they get their gear on, because otherwise you will have to put some weight on the nose or prop up the tail to keep it sitting correctly. I think there are a number of guys who have their engine sitting in the crate in their shop before they even start on the fuse kit. This is a lot of money to have sitting around, but the price is going up, so it could be that you could run the TVM numbers and find that (if you have the money now, of course) it makes more sense to buy it now and have it sit. On the other hand, there are a couple of places (like ECIand maybe Superior) who are hoping to come out with their own version of the IO-540 experimental soon, which should come in well below the price of the new Lycoming experimentals. If you are hoping to put on an Innodyn turbine, you should probably just put it in your will and go on with life in the non-RV slow lane. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Subject: RV10-List: Engine Istall Could someone tell me at what point in the construction sequence the engine need to be installed? How much work is left after that? I am trying to determine exactly when I need to have the engine on hand. thanks Niko 40188 Halfway through fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine Install
Date: Nov 23, 2005
As a "Wannabe" RV-10 builder, I'm beginning to acquire components which will be needed during the building process (I intend to start building next winter - I promised my fiancee I wouldn't build another airplane for at least a year after I finished my Pietenpol). A friend who is building an F-1 Rocket has just gotten a line on an Aztec that was damaged in one of this summer's hurricanes (hangar fell in on it), and only needs one of the IO-540's on it. I'm not sure which engines the Aztec had, and I don't know for sure which version of the O-540 Van chose for the RV-10. Can someone tell me which version of the O-540 is the preferred one for the RV-10, and what production aircraft used that version? Jack Phillips Raleigh, NC -----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Istall Niko, Where in the build process you mount the engine will determine how much work is left after that. You can really put it on as soon as you get your gear on, but it doesn't have to on until everything else is done except the cowling. Most guys like to get it on, it seems, as soon as they get their gear on, because otherwise you will have to put some weight on the nose or prop up the tail to keep it sitting correctly. I think there are a number of guys who have their engine sitting in the crate in their shop before they even start on the fuse kit. This is a lot of money to have sitting around, but the price is going up, so it could be that you could run the TVM numbers and find that (if you have the money now, of course) it makes more sense to buy it now and have it sit. On the other hand, there are a couple of places (like ECIand maybe Superior) who are hoping to come out with their own version of the IO-540 experimental soon, which should come in well below the price of the new Lycoming experimentals. If you are hoping to put on an Innodyn turbine, you should probably just put it in your will and go on with life in the non-RV slow lane. Jesse Saint ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2005
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: HS cradle)
I mis Jamse very much to! Thiz the time of yer thet he would always give use a guud famuly story to cheer us up and rant about how he couldnt weight to get his plane finished.....All kidding aside..I have to admit he saved me a mistake or three...you could count on James to make it first and then let everyone right away know to watch out for it. Good guy, hope he is well. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine Istall
Date: Nov 23, 2005
If you buy an assembled engine and plan on having it sit for a long period of time, there are some things you should consider. Most pickling oil is good for six months. Afterwards, the engine needs to be rotated and cylinders refogged to help combat corrosion. If this is not done, the cylinders can corrode, and although the engine will still have good compressions, it will use more oil. It is better to not accept delivery of your engine if you are not within a 6-8 month window for installation. Rhonda ________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Istall Niko, Where in the build process you mount the engine will determine how much work is left after that. You can really put it on as soon as you get your gear on, but it doesn't have to on until everything else is done except the cowling. Most guys like to get it on, it seems, as soon as they get their gear on, because otherwise you will have to put some weight on the nose or prop up the tail to keep it sitting correctly. I think there are a number of guys who have their engine sitting in the crate in their shop before they even start on the fuse kit. This is a lot of money to have sitting around, but the price is going up, so it could be that you could run the TVM numbers and find that (if you have the money now, of course) it makes more sense to buy it now and have it sit. On the other hand, there are a couple of places (like ECIand maybe Superior) who are hoping to come out with their own version of the IO-540 experimental soon, which should come in well below the price of the new Lycoming experimentals. If you are hoping to put on an Innodyn turbine, you should probably just put it in your will and go on with life in the non-RV slow lane. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Subject: RV10-List: Engine Istall Could someone tell me at what point in the construction sequence the engine need to be installed? How much work is left after that? I am trying to determine exactly when I need to have the engine on hand. thanks Niko 40188 Halfway through fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: Piper Aztec Engine
Date: Nov 23, 2005
I too am looking at a Piper Aztec engine. From what I can tell, they used an O-540-B1A5 (235 HP @ 2575 RPM) in some models and TIO-540-C1A (250 HP) in others. Van used an IO-540-D4A5 (260 HP @ 2700 RPM). I don't know yet if the Piper O engine can be used "as is" Still doing research on that. Jim Combs 40192 N312F Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2005
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine Install
Jack, There is a file I had found on the Lycoming site that listed their engine designation and what aircraft they went into. I believe it was a file that had engine prices on it. As far as which engine for the RV10, look at the two models that Vans is selling on their web site. Thats the starting point, although I believe other models will also fit in. Niko "Phillips, Jack" wrote: As a Wannabe RV-10 builder, Im beginning to acquire components which will be needed during the building process (I intend to start building next winter I promised my fiancee I wouldnt build another airplane for at least a year after I finished my Pietenpol). A friend who is building an F-1 Rocket has just gotten a line on an Aztec that was damaged in one of this summers hurricanes (hangar fell in on it), and only needs one of the IO-540s on it. Im not sure which engines the Aztec had, and I dont know for sure which version of the O-540 Van chose for the RV-10. Can someone tell me which version of the O-540 is the preferred one for the RV-10, and what production aircraft used that version? Jack Phillips Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine Istall Niko, Where in the build process you mount the engine will determine how much work is left after that. You can really put it on as soon as you get your gear on, but it doesnt have to on until everything else is done except the cowling. Most guys like to get it on, it seems, as soon as they get their gear on, because otherwise you will have to put some weight on the nose or prop up the tail to keep it sitting correctly. I think there are a number of guys who have their engine sitting in the crate in their shop before they even start on the fuse kit. This is a lot of money to have sitting around, but the price is going up, so it could be that you could run the TVM numbers and find that (if you have the money now, of course) it makes more sense to buy it now and have it sit. On the other hand, there are a couple of places (like ECIand maybe Superior) who are hoping to come out with their own version of the IO-540 experimental soon, which should come in well below the price of the new Lycoming experimentals. If you are hoping to put on an Innodyn turbine, you should probably just put it in your will and go on with life in the non-RV slow lane. Jesse Saint ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Piper Aztec Engine
Date: Nov 23, 2005
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Thanks, Jim and Niko. I expect this list will be as useful when building the -10 as the Pietenpol list was when building that airplane. I'll probably do the same thing for an engine I did on that plane - buy a run-out "core" and rebuild it myself. I built the engine on the Piet and it is absolutely the smoothest running A65 Continental I've ever flown behind. Flying it to OSH (37 hours of flying, round trip) it only burned 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Should be able to do the same with an O-540 - just takes more money. Maybe I can build the engine this winter. I promised my fiancee I wouldn't build another airplane for at least a year, but made no mention of building an engine. Jack Phillips Raleigh, NC -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Piper Aztec Engine I too am looking at a Piper Aztec engine. From what I can tell, they used an O-540-B1A5 (235 HP @ 2575 RPM) in some models and TIO-540-C1A (250 HP) in others. Van used an IO-540-D4A5 (260 HP @ 2700 RPM). I don't know yet if the Piper O engine can be used "as is" Still doing research on that. Jim Combs 40192 N312F Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Throttle Cable Throw
I just sent the below to Van's. Perhaps the list has some input though. --------------- I just am finishing up hooking up the Throttle/Prop/Mixture cables today. All went well except the throttle. The Throttle cable doesn't have enough throw to it. If I set the full-throttle position to move the fuel injection throttle arm to the full position, I can't pull the lever back to minimum idle...the quadrant still has a ways it can pull back. If I disconnect the quadrant end of the cable, I can still move the quadrant lever back, so the quadrant's throw is fine, but I can't pull the cable back because there's not enough throw built into the cable itself. Have you had this issue before? What's the fix, a different cable? The cable that I have is the Tuthill/Cablecraft 184V77-2- 45 1/2" Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current section: Engine Hookups ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 23, 2005
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle Cable Throw
I should have also included, the total travel available is 1.93" within the cable, if you disconnect both ends. Tim Tim Olson wrote: > > I just sent the below to Van's. Perhaps the list has some input > though. > > --------------- > I just am finishing up hooking up the Throttle/Prop/Mixture cables > today. All went well except the throttle. The Throttle cable > doesn't have enough throw to it. If I set the full-throttle position > to move the fuel injection throttle arm to the full position, I can't > pull the lever back to minimum idle...the quadrant still has a ways > it can pull back. If I disconnect the quadrant end of the cable, I can > still move the quadrant lever back, so the quadrant's throw is fine, > but I can't pull the cable back because there's not enough throw > built into the cable itself. > > Have you had this issue before? What's the fix, a different cable? > The cable that I have is the Tuthill/Cablecraft 184V77-2- 45 1/2" > > Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Throttle Cable Throw
Date: Nov 23, 2005
There are different length arms available for the injector body. I had to change mine to the long one on the Glasair I built. Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Subject: RV10-List: Throttle Cable Throw I just sent the below to Van's. Perhaps the list has some input though. --------------- I just am finishing up hooking up the Throttle/Prop/Mixture cables today. All went well except the throttle. The Throttle cable doesn't have enough throw to it. If I set the full-throttle position to move the fuel injection throttle arm to the full position, I can't pull the lever back to minimum idle...the quadrant still has a ways it can pull back. If I disconnect the quadrant end of the cable, I can still move the quadrant lever back, so the quadrant's throw is fine, but I can't pull the cable back because there's not enough throw built into the cable itself. Have you had this issue before? What's the fix, a different cable? The cable that I have is the Tuthill/Cablecraft 184V77-2- 45 1/2" Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current section: Engine Hookups ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Rivet/Edge Spacing F-1046 to F1005E
Date: Nov 23, 2005
On sheet 29-9, step three it has you clamp the F-1070, 1046, and 1005E together as show in figure 2 and then match drill. When I did that, the holes on the 1046 do not have the proper edge spacing (2d). I am going out to look again, but I don't think I made a mistake earlier in assembling the 1005c and 1005e. Is that the way it is supposed to be? T. Rene' Felker 40322 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 24, 2005
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Rivet/Edge Spacing F-1046 to F1005E
I had the same problem. My edge distance is about 1d (or slightly less) on the last rivet of the right longeron. I'm pretty sure I had it lined up properly when I drilled, so I think I may have curved the longeron somewhat in that area. My left longeron came out fine. I've not yet decided what to do about it. I may add another rivet between the last and 2nd to last holes that has better edge distance. PJ 40032 rene(at)felker.com wrote: > > On sheet 29-9, step three it has you clamp the F-1070, 1046, and 1005E > together as show in figure 2 and then match drill. When I did that, > the holes on the 1046 do not have the proper edge spacing (2d). I am > going out to look again, but I dont think I made a mistake earlier in > assembling the 1005c and 1005e. Is that the way it is supposed to be? > > **/T. Rene' Felker/** > > //40322// > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: skatetrainer(at)comcast.net
Subject: Thanksgiving Flight Tracking
Date: Nov 24, 2005
For those of us wishing to be flying for the holidays.... Please file IFR so that we can track your flights on flightaware.com. I know, it's intrusive but we get to see where you're flying and when. And dream of the day when we can be tracked. For those of us wishing to be flying for the holidays.... Please file IFR so that we can track your flights on flightaware.com. I know, it's intrusive but we get to see where you're flying and when. And dream of the day when we can be tracked. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuselage rotiserie
Date: Nov 24, 2005
When I built my RV 8 quickbuild fuselage, I built a rotisserie and mounted the fuselage, using the engine mount holes, and the VS mount structure to support the assembly. This system was a life saver, as my bad back won't allow me to bend over the fuselage to work for hours on end. I am studying the various photos of the RV10, and am trying to fiqure how to mount the QB 10 fuselage onto a similar rotisserie. Has anyone build such a fixture for the 10, and what did they attach the aft end to? I don't want to mount the fuselage to the tailcone, until I'm ready to put it on the gear, as I would create a storage problem, due to the length of that whole assembly. My QB fuselage is scheduled to arrive next week, so anyone with ideas? Chris Hukill deburring tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <bakerocb(at)cox.net>
Subject: Fuselage rotiserie
Date: Nov 25, 2005
11/25/2005 Hello Chris, A very common technique among composite builders is to support the aft fuselage with a sling or cradle arrangement consisting of a nylon strap supported by a 2 x 4 and 3/4 inch thick plywood frame work. Assembling the frame work with dry wall screws is easy and permits disassembly and recycling the components. OC From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage rotiserie When I built my RV 8 quickbuild fuselage, I built a rotisserie and mounted the fuselage, using the engine mount holes, and the VS mount structure to support the assembly. This system was a life saver, as my bad back won't allow me to bend over the fuselage to work for hours on end. I am studying the various photos of the RV10, and am trying to fiqure how to mount the QB 10 fuselage onto a similar rotisserie. Has anyone build such a fixture for the 10, and what did they attach the aft end to? I don't want to mount the fuselage to the tailcone, until I'm ready to put it on the gear, as I would create a storage problem, due to the length of that whole assembly. My QB fuselage is scheduled to arrive next week, so anyone with ideas? Chris Hukill deburring tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Why is there a screw in the 6" bottom hinge of the bottom cowl?
Date: Nov 25, 2005
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I'm working on the cowl and notice that the inboard hole of the 6" hinge for the bottom cowl is drilled #27 for a screw. Does anyone know why this is? There is a screw hole on the side of the scoop to secure the hinge pin, but why the one in the hinge itself? Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Piper Aztec Engine
Date: Nov 25, 2005
We have an engine off an Aztec, I think it is a C4B5 IO-540. We had to buy new engine mount ears to fit the Van's engine mount, which cost $400 or so. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim(at)CombsFive.Com Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Piper Aztec Engine I too am looking at a Piper Aztec engine. From what I can tell, they used an O-540-B1A5 (235 HP @ 2575 RPM) in some models and TIO-540-C1A (250 HP) in others. Van used an IO-540-D4A5 (260 HP @ 2700 RPM). I don't know yet if the Piper O engine can be used "as is" Still doing research on that. Jim Combs 40192 N312F Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Fuselage rotiserie
Date: Nov 25, 2005
Please see the attached pictures. If they don't go through, I will try to send them another way. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org/> W: 352-465-4545 C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage rotiserie When I built my RV 8 quickbuild fuselage, I built a rotisserie and mounted the fuselage, using the engine mount holes, and the VS mount structure to support the assembly. This system was a life saver, as my bad back won't allow me to bend over the fuselage to work for hours on end. I am studying the various photos of the RV10, and am trying to fiqure how to mount the QB 10 fuselage onto a similar rotisserie. Has anyone build such a fixture for the 10, and what did they attach the aft end to? I don't want to mount the fuselage to the tailcone, until I'm ready to put it on the gear, as I would create a storage problem, due to the length of that whole assembly. My QB fuselage is scheduled to arrive next week, so anyone with ideas? Chris Hukill deburring tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2005
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
On section 28 has anyone used to actual bolts Vans provides to temporarily attach the fwd and center sections of the fuselage? (These would be the tight tolerance NAS bolts.) If yes, did you end up with any damage to the bolts and nuts? If not where you able to find the same size bolts at a local hardware store? The NAS bolts are a very tight fit and I am concerned that if I use bolts from a home hardware store they might damage the holes. thanks Niko 40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted on RV list" <ted_french(at)telus.net>
Subject: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
Date: Nov 25, 2005
The 3/8 bolts from Home Hdwr are just a bit smaller than the close tolerance bolts. They are much easier to insert. No damage to the close tolerance bolts when I tried them but they are a little shinier than they were Ted French RV-10 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli Sent: November 25, 2005 3:38 PM To: Matronics Subject: RV10-List: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts On section 28 has anyone used to actual bolts Vans provides to temporarily attach the fwd and center sections of the fuselage? (These would be the tight tolerance NAS bolts.) If yes, did you end up with any damage to the bolts and nuts? If not where you able to find the same size bolts at a local hardware store? The NAS bolts are a very tight fit and I am concerned that if I use bolts from a home hardware store they might damage the holes. thanks Niko 40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
Date: Nov 25, 2005
Go to the hardware store and get 8 sets - 3/8" diam x 4.5" length bolts, nut and 2 flat washers. Use those for the initial clamping of the fuse halves together. You only want to torgue down the AN bolts once. That is (hopefully) the last time you assemble the wings and fuselage. Jim Combs N312F #40192 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: B&C oil filter
Date: Nov 25, 2005
I bought an engine that had a B&C oil filter adapter on it. I got my motor mount this week and held it up to the motor and it appears to hit the filter with the diagional tube. Has anyone put a B&C filter adapter on their plane and did they have a conflict? Also it apears that the same tube is very close to the vent on the engine. Any feedback about that. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuselage rotiserie
Date: Nov 25, 2005
I saw a guy once use an engine stand on one end and a custom stand on the other. Turned round n round ... ----- Original Message ----- From: <bakerocb(at)cox.net> Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage rotiserie > > 11/25/2005 > > Hello Chris, A very common technique among composite builders is to > support the aft fuselage with a sling or cradle arrangement consisting of > a nylon strap supported by a 2 x 4 and 3/4 inch thick plywood frame work. > > Assembling the frame work with dry wall screws is easy and permits > disassembly and recycling the components. > > OC > > From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> > Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage rotiserie > > When I built my RV 8 quickbuild fuselage, I built a rotisserie and > mounted the > fuselage, using the engine mount holes, and the VS mount structure to > support > the assembly. This system was a life saver, as my bad back won't allow me > to > bend over the fuselage to work for hours on end. I am studying the various > photos > of the RV10, and am trying to fiqure how to mount the QB 10 fuselage onto > a similar rotisserie. Has anyone build such a fixture for the 10, and > what did > they attach the aft end to? I don't want to mount the fuselage to the > tailcone, > until I'm ready to put it on the gear, as I would create a storage > problem, > due to the length of that whole assembly. My QB fuselage is scheduled to > arrive > next week, so anyone with ideas? Chris Hukill > deburring tailcone > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: B&C oil filter
Date: Nov 25, 2005
Hey everyone, I'm currently working on the fuselage bulkheads on section 25-5 and ran into something that doesn't look right. Step 11 has you rivet the F-1004J Center Section Upright Bars with AN426AD4-16 rivets. When I did this, it seems that the rivets are not long enough. When squeezed there is not quite enough to get a large enough shop head unless I over squeeze it then it's not right. Not enough rivet. Has anyone else run into this? Since there are AN3 bolts installed later, it seems this won't be a structural issue. Am I alone on this? Thanks, Sean Blair #40225 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Centreline marking on J-channels
Date: Nov 28, 2005
Was doing the wing J-channels today, and thought of a novel way to mark the centreline - see the photos. For the image impaired, I took a scrap piece of J-channel, nested it against another J-channel, and marked the centreline. I then drilled a hole (slightly offset for part thickness) to allow the nib of a Sharpie pen to protrude. Then slid scrap piece along with the Sharpie in hole - perfect centreline. Wish I 'd discovered it earlier, when doing the Tailcone J-channels. Indran Chelvanayagam ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: Centreline marking on J-channels
Date: Nov 27, 2005
Excellent idea. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net>
Subject: J-channel Tips for Tim's Website
Date: Nov 27, 2005
When I drilled the F-1047's, it occurred to me that it would have been easier to just lay the skin on the benchtop and drill it that way, instead of having the tailcone clecoed together up on sawhorses. I found the F-1047E hard to drill because I couldn't put one arm up and over to hold the back side of the J-channel and get my head down low enough to see the line through the skin hole. I had a nearby RV-4 builder come over and help me. I hit his hand with the drill bit one time when coming through. He thought he knew where his hand was. After he left, when doing the F-1047D, I punched through and drilled through a fingernail into my finger. I thought I knew where my hand was. Sure would have been easier with just the skin and stiffener on the table top. Looking ahead to the wings, I plan to lay out a line and go through the skin holes. I'm not going to mess with the spar and the "don't drill these holes" warning in the plans. Too confusing. John Kirkland #40333 Sec 10 - Tailcone Wing kit inventoried ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Problem with WD-1002-R
Date: Nov 27, 2005
I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not find anything in the archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2005
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Subject: cotter pins
Hi all, Just out of curiousity, what exactly is the difference between cotter pins that you can get from a hardware store (stainless steel, or stainless with zinc), and the "aviation grade" that you can get from Aircraft Spruce and such? Thanks, -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted on RV list" <ted_french(at)telus.net>
Subject: Problem with WD-1002-R
Date: Nov 28, 2005
I did the exact same thing yesterday on the left weldment. Didn't go off the side but close enough to make it useless. I have not been able as yet to figure out why it happened. The side, I thought , was tight to the F-1040 channel (I think thats the right number) when I drilled. Ordered a new one from Van's. Today I'll drill out the bad one. Oh well...I guess stuff happens Ted French RV-10 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene Sent: November 27, 2005 9:00 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not find anything in the archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Problem with WD-1002-R
Date: Nov 28, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
You have to really work at it to get the ears to lay close to the web. Then once you have done that clamp them before drilling. I couldn't get mine to go strait down the middle but I was able to get enough edge distance. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not find anything in the archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Problem with WD-1002-R
Date: Nov 28, 2005
After I saw my problem I tried to see if I could get the flange to move over, but could not figure out a way? How did you get yours to move over to the side? Any help is greatly appreciated so that I can get the next one right....everything was going so good up to that point. And, thanks for your response. Rene' Felker _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R You have to really work at it to get the ears to lay close to the web. Then once you have done that clamp them before drilling. I couldn't get mine to go strait down the middle but I was able to get enough edge distance. Randy _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not find anything in the archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Problem with WD-1002-R
Date: Nov 28, 2005
Ted, I sent an e-mail to Vans to see what they say. I am wondering if there is a fix that does not require the replacement of the 1002. I hate drilling out rivets and worry about damaging the bulkhead doing it. Rene' Felker _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted on RV list Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I did the exact same thing yesterday on the left weldment. Didn't go off the side but close enough to make it useless. I have not been able as yet to figure out why it happened. The side, I thought , was tight to the F-1040 channel (I think thats the right number) when I drilled. Ordered a new one from Van's. Today I'll drill out the bad one. Oh well...I guess stuff happens Ted French RV-10 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not find anything in the archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Problem with WD-1002-R
Date: Nov 28, 2005
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
Now you are really making me rack the old brain. I think it involved a block of wood and a clamp or 2. Randy From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R After I saw my problem I tried to see if I could get the flange to move over, but could not figure out a way? How did you get yours to move over to the side? Any help is greatly appreciated so that I can get the next one right........everything was going so good up to that point. And, thanks for your response. Rene' Felker ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R You have to really work at it to get the ears to lay close to the web. Then once you have done that clamp them before drilling. I couldn't get mine to go strait down the middle but I was able to get enough edge distance. Randy ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not find anything in the archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Problem with WD-1002-R
Date: Nov 28, 2005
Here is the response I got from Vans. I sure do like their responsiveness. Rene', I don't know what happened, but I'm sending you a new WD-1002R. You can remove the old one by grinding off the shop heads and punching out the rivet shanks. Draw a line on the top part of the new WD-1002 and before you drill it, you should see the line through the holes in the channel and gusset. Bruce Reynolds brucer(at)vansaircraft.com Rene' Felker _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted on RV list Subject: RE: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I did the exact same thing yesterday on the left weldment. Didn't go off the side but close enough to make it useless. I have not been able as yet to figure out why it happened. The side, I thought , was tight to the F-1040 channel (I think thats the right number) when I drilled. Ordered a new one from Van's. Today I'll drill out the bad one. Oh well...I guess stuff happens Ted French RV-10 wings -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene Subject: RV10-List: Problem with WD-1002-R I have attached a picture, don't know if it will get through. Working on section 29 of the fuselage kit and Drilled the B-100B, F-1040-R and WD-1002R as directed. When I disassembled I noticed that the holes in the top flange of the WD-1002 ran off the edge. Anyone else have this problem? Could not find anything in the archive. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________ spamd3.ruraltel.net * -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network * 0.5 HTML_40_50 BODY: Message is 40% to 50% HTML * 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message * -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: deburring and primer prep
Date: Nov 28, 2005
This may be a stupid question but is it ok to deburr edges of skins with scotch-brite pads. Also, my priming up to now has consisted of Pre-kote followed by a rinse then prime with a 2-part primer. The only thing I don't like about the pre-kote is that on the alclad parts it's hard to get the alclad off the parts in the corners then the primer doesn't stick there. Does anybody just use a scotch-brite pad (dry) then rinse and prime??? Another question I have is about alodining. Where can the product be bought and what do I look for when shopping for it??? Next, how long do you leave the pieces in the alodine??? Finally, I assume the pieces have to be rinsed then dried before priming, correct??? I've also seen the alodine put into a squirt bottle and squirted onto larger pieces such as skins. Anybody have any experience with this??? Sorry for the lame questions, just looking for a better way to prepare parts for primer!!! Bill Britton RV-10 Elevators ________________________________________________________________________________ spamd2.ruraltel.net * -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network * -0.7 BAYES_20 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 5 to 20% * 0.5 HTML_40_50 BODY: Message is 40% to 50% HTML * 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: deburring and primer prep
Date: Nov 28, 2005
Does this mean that if you alodine the parts they don't need primed. Just alodined, then rivet??? Again, not trying to start the primer wars over. Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 6:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring and primer prep Bill, I have had great luck with Alumaprep and a red Scothbrite pad. It cleans the parts easily and once you rinse it off and it dries it is ready for Alodine or primer. The Alumaprep comes in gallons and you dilute it with water. I keep a spray bottle, spray the parts and scrub with the pad then rinse, works great. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2005
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: deburring and primer prep
Hi Bill, I have used the PPG products to prime the parts. Here is my procedure: Scratch the surface with scotchbrite pad (most of the time) Place part in aluminum cleaner. Leave for about 1 to 2 minutes. Rinse aluminum cleaner off. Place part in alodine solution. Leave for about 1 to 2 minutes. Turns gold in color. Remove parts from alodine solution and rinse. Hang parts to dry or try to dry them by blowing air on them. When dry spary the PPG, 2 part epoxy primer. If parts are too large to dip I use a scotch brite pad for the cleaner and a brush for the alodine solution. It does not come out as well as when dipped. I the skins I only treat the inside thinking that the outside will be taken care of during painting. The alodine itself does protect the metal. The epoxy primer is a second layer of protection or maybe a third if one considers the alcad layer allready on most of the parts. This procedure is quiet a bit of work and might not be necessary unless you plane will be tied down near the ocean. Hope this helps. Niko 40188 Bill and Tami Britton wrote: Does this mean that if you alodine the parts they don't need primed. Just alodined, then rivet??? Again, not trying to start the primer wars over. Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: Rick To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 6:34 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring and primer prep I have had great luck with Alumaprep and a red Scothbrite pad. It cleans the parts easily and once you rinse it off and it dries it is ready for Alodine or primer. The Alumaprep comes in gallons and you dilute it with water. I keep a spray bottle, spray the parts and scrub with the pad then rinse, works great. Rick S. 40185 ========================================== Some AWESOME Terrific Free your generous =========================much much ==================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Section 28 Fwd and Center Fuselage Attach Bolts
Date: Nov 28, 2005
Not sure if you realized but most of the std AN bolts that Van's sells in their catalog are about the same price (or even less!) than what you can buy at Home depot. For example: Van's AN3-10A 17 cents Home depot- bag of 5 for 98 cents or about 20 cents a piece Buying at an Ace hardware is even worse! Robin Wessel Tigard, OR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Lsssp(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 29, 2005
Subject: Re: RV 10 tail kit for sale
Hello, Do you still have this tail kit for sale? Thanks Scott ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: RV 10 tail kit for sale
Date: Nov 29, 2005
I have an RV-8 emp kit that is completed, I am currently building an RV-10. Is that what you are looking for RV-8 Where are you located?, I am in Lexington, Ky Jim Combs ============================================================ From: Lsssp(at)aol.com Date: 2005/11/29 Tue PM 07:41:23 EST Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV 10 tail kit for sale Hello, Do you still have this tail kit for sale? Thanks Scott ============================================================ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2005
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Step Installation
I am about ready to install the fuselage steps. In the plans page 30-3 step 3 has you drill a hole through the guide hole, step, step mount and the bottom skin. Then the next step has you drill #30 up from the skin. I am planning on installing an access cover to get to the step after the baggage floor is riveted in place. Is there an alternate method to drilling the step that does not involve drilling through the bottom skin? Larry Rosen 40356 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Paint
Date: Nov 30, 2005
Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Paint
Date: Nov 30, 2005
They just painted a -7 at our local builders group hangar. It looks very nice. I can get you the phone number of the painter if you would like to know details. If you have specific questions I can find out the answers and post them for all. Keith Campbell is the painter he sold his body shop business about a year ago. Over the last 15 years he has built an Oshkosh award winning RV-4, two Oshkosh award winning RV-6's, and now finishing up on this -7 while helping on two -9's. So he is a good one to talk about paint and finish quality. Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Paint Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Paint
Date: Nov 30, 2005
It is a high end european paint. I think that Mercedes uses it. I don't know about the workability and blending properties Gary Specketer -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Paint Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: Paint
Date: Nov 30, 2005
Was that painted with Sikkens? That was the main issue I was wanting to know. If so, I would like to communicate with him via e-mail if possible. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint They just painted a -7 at our local builders group hangar. It looks very nice. I can get you the phone number of the painter if you would like to know details. If you have specific questions I can find out the answers and post them for all. Keith Campbell is the painter he sold his body shop business about a year ago. Over the last 15 years he has built an Oshkosh award winning RV-4, two Oshkosh award winning RV-6's, and now finishing up on this -7 while helping on two -9's. So he is a good one to talk about paint and finish quality. Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Paint Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge? Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com>
Subject: Paint
Date: Nov 30, 2005
Sorry I left out that little detail. Yes it is Sikkens and they are very happy with it. All I can tell you is it's a base/clear and it looks good. I overheard them talking with the paint rep. who asked how long they waited between stripes. He said "about 20 minutes because that is what the instructions said at 70 degrees". That kind of floored me. The stripes blended nice too, not the hard edge we experienced with PPG Centari. Keith doesn't do email, but like I said if you email me a list of questions I will get them answered for you. Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike(at)cleavelandtool.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint Was that painted with Sikkens? That was the main issue I was wanting to know. If so, I would like to communicate with him via e-mail if possible. Thanks. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse(at)itecusa.org www.itecusa.org Fax: 815-377-3694 I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.

November 02, 2005 - December 01, 2005

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