RV10-Archive.digest.vol-av
December 01, 2005 - December 16, 2005
_____
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
They just painted a -7 at our local builders group hangar. It looks very
nice. I can get you the phone number of the painter if you would like to
know details. If you have specific questions I can find out the answers and
post them for all. Keith Campbell is the painter he sold his body shop
business about a year ago. Over the last 15 years he has built an Oshkosh
award winning RV-4, two Oshkosh award winning RV-6's, and now finishing up
on this -7 while helping on two -9's. So he is a good one to talk about
paint and finish quality.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo
Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or
Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Hi Jesse,
Akzo Nobel have a range of paints suitable and approved for aerospace use.
We have used Sikkens in the past for propeller blade applications with
excellent results.
John
#40315
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo
Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or
Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Could someone please post pictures of how they safety wired the smooth hinge
pin to the 1/16" hole?
Rob Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz(at)intel.com> |
I used Sikkens on my RV-6 back in 1994. It is holding up extremely
well.
It is the most used automotive paint in the world (according to my buddy
who works for Toyota and used to do painting).
Only problem is cost. I got my paint discounted thru my buddy and it
still cost over $2K JUST for the materials - and that was in 94.
dw
RV-6 915hrs
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
Sorry I left out that little detail. Yes it is Sikkens and they are
very happy with it. All I can tell you is it's a base/clear and it
looks good. I overheard them talking with the paint rep. who asked how
long they waited between stripes. He said "about 20 minutes because
that is what the instructions said at 70 degrees". That kind of floored
me. The stripes blended nice too, not the hard edge we experienced with
PPG Centari. Keith doesn't do email, but like I said if you email me a
list of questions I will get them answered for you.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
Was that painted with Sikkens? That was the main issue I was wanting to
know. If so, I would like to communicate with him via e-mail if
possible.
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint
They just painted a -7 at our local builders group hangar. It looks
very nice. I can get you the phone number of the painter if you would
like to know details. If you have specific questions I can find out the
answers and post them for all. Keith Campbell is the painter he sold
his body shop business about a year ago. Over the last 15 years he has
built an Oshkosh award winning RV-4, two Oshkosh award winning RV-6's,
and now finishing up on this -7 while helping on two -9's. So he is a
good one to talk about paint and finish quality.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo
Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG
or Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | WD-1014C Torque Tube Collars |
Pages 23-5 and 23-6 have all sorts of directions on how to fabricate torque
tube assemblies. Other than some total length measurements, I could find
nothing that directly says how long to cut the WD-1014C steel tubing. Does
anyone else have the dimension of the tube lying around? I'd like to cut the
one STB4130 tube that I have to the correct length... the first time. I've
already called Vans and haven't received a direct answer.
Thanks,
Jay
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-1014C Torque Tube Collars |
Just cut them in half and they will be plenty long. The tube length is
not in the plans. William Curtis has a good description and photos on
his web site here <http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/index6.html>
Larry Rosen
40356
Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:
>
>Pages 23-5 and 23-6 have all sorts of directions on how to fabricate torque
>tube assemblies. Other than some total length measurements, I could find
>nothing that directly says how long to cut the WD-1014C steel tubing. Does
>anyone else have the dimension of the tube lying around? I'd like to cut the
>one STB4130 tube that I have to the correct length... the first time. I've
>already called Vans and haven't received a direct answer.
>
>Thanks,
>Jay
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Ok, Sikkens is the European finish that came to this country a couple of
years back and bought up a bunch of automotive finish business by swapping
equipment for paint volume in professional auto paint shops. They would
offer up a 20k-30k paint booth for 10K a month in color finish with a three
year contract. A lot of shops took them up on it and they got some market
share and even a few happy customers. The shop owners bought it and the
painters endured it. After the blush wore off, they have fallen on their
sword in many areas. Still it's a good product but not really what you want
unless you want a heavy automotive quality finish.
Akzo Nobel owns Sikkens which is primarily the automotive product side of
Akzo Nobel which is a multi-product finish company. Akzo Aerospace brand is
the aircraft finish line used by many but not all or even a majority of the
professional aircraft shops. Akzo bought US Paint a couple of years ago, US
Paint was a major aircraft finish supplier to professional shops. We sell
Akzo Aerospace and have had numerous large 707 size aircraft and small 152
aircraft painted with it. We also sell Dupont Imron and have had many many
large 707 and small 152 aircraft customers use it with great success. We
sell PPG and have had many,...... you get the picture. All of the major
players have good/great products if used as a system,..... again, if used as
a system. Dupont has a couple of newer Imron like products, PPG has several
as well, and Akzo is fine as well. You won't be sorry with any of them,
including Sikkens, if used properly, that's why so many folks endorse one
or the other with no clear cut winner.
Most airplanes have a poor finish because of application not the finish
product. Really, it's not a big deal unless you want something equal to a
high quality automotive finish in which case you step up to multiple coats,
metallic, clear coats, etc. If you want a really good aircraft paint job,
find a good painter and use whatever major brand that he has confidence in
and likes to shoot. Prep the plane first very well, then prep it again,
then prep it again, then think about it and prep again. The actual color
coat of something like Imron/PPG/Akzo should almost be an afterthought.
Also, something most folks apparently don't know is that in every reasonable
sized town, there is a store that specializes in automotive refinish color
for professional auto or aircraft paint shops. Just drop in and tell them
what you are doing and what you want it to look like. They love to talk
about paint. They should provide a ton of information that you will not
get from viewing the web sites. If you live in Arkansas or Louisiana, I can
give you a list of Car Color Specialty Stores to visit :-) Most of these
kind of places also have paint application clinics that you can attend for
little or nothing if you will just ask about the schedule.
Hope this helps!
Bill S
7a Ark fuse/panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 1:06 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo
Nobel? My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or
Imron. Anybody have any personal knowledge?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: WD-1014C Torque Tube Collars |
It turns out the final measurments are relative to the weldments. The tube length
is not that critical, just slice the tube in half.
It will make sense if you just follow the directions. about the time you get finished,
the "Ah Ha" moment will occur. At least it did for me. I too pondered
this.
Jim Combs
N312F
#40192
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Step Installation |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I know I didn't but I cant remember how I got around it. I also added
an removable door so that I could take the step on and off but I mainly
did it because I wasn't ready to put the step on for good because I
didn't know if I wanted to chrome the step or paint it. And now I can
take it off when I race the -10 at Reno. Hahaha
I actually just took the step to hpcoatings.com They are currently
ceramic coating my exhaust system, and the step. They said that the
ceramic coating is much tougher than powder coating and it has a nice
chrome look to it. I will post some pictures once it is complete. They
are going to powder coat my baffles as well.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: RV10-List: Step Installation
I am about ready to install the fuselage steps. In the plans page 30-3
step 3 has you drill a hole through the guide hole, step, step mount
and the bottom skin. Then the next step has you drill #30 up from the
skin. I am planning on installing an access cover to get to the step
after the baggage floor is riveted in place.
Is there an alternate method to drilling the step that does not involve
drilling through the bottom skin?
Larry Rosen
40356
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi Jesse,
Sikkens was taken over by Akzo which later became Akzo-Nobel, a paint/chemicals
company based in Holland.
Which type of paint are you referring to? Sikkens used to do mainly automotive
products with the exception of some Aeropsace primers most of which have long
since been superseded by the Akzo-Nobel Aerospace finishes.
the three main product lines are : Aerodur, Aerodex and Aviox for topcoats. Aerodur
is a high gloss finish, two pack and thinners added to obtain spray viscosity.
Aerodex is a semi gloss and suitable for interior as well as exterior applications.
It's fast drying and easy for the application of colorschemes over
a base coat of Aerodur followed by a clearcoat. This has the advantage that you
can strip the coorscheme but not the base coat. Aviox is a product similar
to aerodur with the exception that is a 50/50 mix withoput thinners to obtain
spray viscosity. This was specially developed for airliners where paint crews
can do the painting during the night while engineering crews do their job during
the day. It is polyuerthane based and extremely durable. curing times can be
brought down by wetting the floor after spraying and elevating the temp to around
30C. the down side is that it is difficult to patch in for repairs without
it being visible and it is expensive, the hardener doesn't come any smaller
than 5ltrs the base comes in either 1 or 5 litres.
all three proiduct lines were specifically developed for aerospace applications
and come with the appropriate release certificates as standard. On these certs
you can find the material specs as set by Boeing, Airbus and Bombardier to name
just a few.
Hope this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 7:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo Nobel?
My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or Imron. Anybody
have any personal knowledge?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please
call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call
me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail
that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi Jesse,
in case you want to do your own painting you can contact Akzo aerospace for training
:
trish.lewis(at)akzonobelaerospace.com
This is their USA contact, I don't know about cost, availbility or otherwise as
I'm not associated with Akzo, other than being a regular user of their products
for aircraft apllications.
I done their course some 15 odd years ago when I started working for the now defunct
Fokker Aircraft in the Netherlands. They used to do the course in their
factory in Sassenheim, just outside the Hague.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 7:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Does anybody know anything about Sikkens paint by a company called Akzo Nobel?
My research is telling me that it is on par or better than PPG or Imron. Anybody
have any personal knowledge?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please
call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call
me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail
that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
Godd morning to all.
I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of the funny
looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to it, who
support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will machined a solid
piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a couple of those,the original
really look funny ,the way is welded only one side and only tack the inside.
If any one remember ,please let me know.
Thanks ,Hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
<20051202122811.KSOP23329.ibm56aec.bellsouth.net(at)mail.bellsouth.net>
Just throwing this out as a possible alternative to machining a new part..
Has anyone considered opening a piece of 063 angle to match the angle the
nut makes to the plate and using it as a reinforcement? It would share the
rivets with the plate and the trim cable will pass thru a slightly
over-sized hole in the angle with the nuts on the trim cable locking it all
in place.
I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not and will be passing it by our local
tech counselor to get his opinion. My fall-back plan is to purchase a space
cover plate/weldment and keep it in the plane with the tool box. Won't help
an in-flight failure but will allow me to make a field repair to get home.
Tom Gesele #473
Emp/Cone done - Wings/Fuse showing up next week.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RV10-List: elevators
Godd morning to all.
I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of
the funny looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to
it, who support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will
machined a solid piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a
couple of those,the original really look funny ,the way is welded only one
side and only tack the inside.
If any one remember ,please let me know.
Thanks ,Hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
My experience with my fuel tanks,is ,the SS weld is good but do not like vibration
to much,there is where the cracks come ,I will try wit my welding to beef
up,and I thinks the best to protectis to ,like in the rudder cover the surface
with very hard but flexible material 42oo from 3m is perfect ,a very thin layer
in between will absorb thge vibration,( I thinks),I used in the rudder insted
of the pro seal,was perfect,dry quickly ,very strong,not mess .When consulting
with Van ,they explain the proseal is only to hold the parts togheter,nothing
structural.
Hugo
I will post some pictures after the welding ,if I busted ,can be replace very easy
>
> From: Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net>
> Date: 2005/12/02 Fri AM 10:11:54 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: elevators
>
>
> Just throwing this out as a possible alternative to machining a new part..
>
> Has anyone considered opening a piece of 063 angle to match the angle the
> nut makes to the plate and using it as a reinforcement? It would share the
> rivets with the plate and the trim cable will pass thru a slightly
> over-sized hole in the angle with the nuts on the trim cable locking it all
> in place.
>
> I'm not sure if it's a good idea or not and will be passing it by our local
> tech counselor to get his opinion. My fall-back plan is to purchase a space
> cover plate/weldment and keep it in the plane with the tool box. Won't help
> an in-flight failure but will allow me to make a field repair to get home.
>
> Tom Gesele #473
> Emp/Cone done - Wings/Fuse showing up next week.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 7:28 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: elevators
>
>
>
> Godd morning to all.
> I remember couple of months ago some body bring at the table the issue of
> the funny looking of the small Stainless steel plate with the nut welded to
> it, who support the trim cable at the elevators ,and mention he will
> machined a solid piece,is this happened?,if so I will like to purchase a
> couple of those,the original really look funny ,the way is welded only one
> side and only tack the inside.
> If any one remember ,please let me know.
> Thanks ,Hugo
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Tom,
The idea of a doubler for the nut on the trim weldment sounds like it
may have merit. I'd be interested to hear what your tech counselor has to
say about it. I too purchased a couple of spare weldments from Van's just
to have on hand. Won't help in flight though. I'm not sure what the
consequences of inflight failure would be but it seems the trim tab would be
allowed to flutter. Not a good thing!
John Hasbrouck #40264
Burning up propane to keep from freezing
in the garage/shop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim
actuation. A while ago others reported failures as
well (none inflight). For some of the initial kits the
weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got two
replacements from Vans and they are welded one side,
tacked the other.
Van's tech support said they were thinking about
changing it (guess not so far). The other complexity
is once installed you cannot adjust position without
really bending the teleflex cable bc it is attached
direct to the access panel.
I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it
would be easier to put nut plates on it. This would
allow easy fine tuning. It would also allow you to
remove the access panel fully for a better inspection.
I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the tail
kit. It is also hard to get the servo in and out +
adjusted. If the nut broke free in flight, the trim
would either free stream or flutter. Since it is not
weighted it has a high risk for fluttering. It's small
enough that you might not notice and further damage
might occur.
Eric
--- Jim Wade wrote:
> You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire
> mig with small wire. The
> only problem with this is the weld will rust in
> time. put a little paint on
> it and you are good to go. Why is everyone obsessing
> on this?? has one
> failed?????
> Jim
> 40383
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
I took the parts to a local welder and he beefed them up with heavy welds. They
look really solid now and don't concern me like they once did. The welder charged
$35.00 though. As far as access, I haven't installed the cables yet but
based on the various comments posted agree with the idea of nutplates.
Sean Blair
40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thanks for the opinions,I thinks I will go for beefed up the weld,I didn't go deeply
in the constructions process yet, but Give the place ,and the function ,I
will try do not put wheigth in it(nut plates),even in small amoun of it at 200
in the furthest part of the missil I thinks is out of my league to investigate
the consecuences.
I will show the weld after I done with it.
Thanks,Hugo
Just finish the HS (i will order a pneumatic squeezer)don't laugh
>
> From: Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com>
> Date: 2005/12/02 Fri PM 01:38:53 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: elevators
>
>
> I've had one fail on the bench while testing trim
> actuation. A while ago others reported failures as
> well (none inflight). For some of the initial kits the
> weld was only "tacked" from one side. I got two
> replacements from Vans and they are welded one side,
> tacked the other.
>
> Van's tech support said they were thinking about
> changing it (guess not so far). The other complexity
> is once installed you cannot adjust position without
> really bending the teleflex cable bc it is attached
> direct to the access panel.
>
> I'd like to see a bigger mounting plate so that it
> would be easier to put nut plates on it. This would
> allow easy fine tuning. It would also allow you to
> remove the access panel fully for a better inspection.
>
> I think elevator trim is the weakest part of the tail
> kit. It is also hard to get the servo in and out +
> adjusted. If the nut broke free in flight, the trim
> would either free stream or flutter. Since it is not
> weighted it has a high risk for fluttering. It's small
> enough that you might not notice and further damage
> might occur.
>
> Eric
>
> --- Jim Wade wrote:
>
> > You can weld stainless with mild steel!! Use a wire
> > mig with small wire. The
> > only problem with this is the weld will rust in
> > time. put a little paint on
> > it and you are good to go. Why is everyone obsessing
> > on this?? has one
> > failed?????
> > Jim
> > 40383
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Guides |
I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector valve
and lines and would appreciate any help.
The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel selector
valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon guide
strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to the
selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable guides
(eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Bill Stegemann
RV6 - sold
RV10 wings/fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Guides |
Bill:
I have fixed the problem. I drilled out the front eyelet and installed the
nylon rudder rudder cable guides in the front of the fuel selector as per
Van's design. Fuel lines and fitting were already installed at such time.
Coming to your same conclusion about the chaffing, I then called Scott
McDaniel at Van's and told him my thoughts about the rudder cable being two
close to the fuel line and fittings and my concerns about the rudder cable
sawing through the fuel lines and/or the fittings. Scott sent me four extra
nylon guides (page 38-10 figure 4) and I installed them aft of the fuel
selector lines so that the rudder cable cannot rub.
After doing all this I saw an alternative solution on an RV-6 builder's
project. He was installing West Marine snap on cable covers
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/10001/-1/10001/1584
over his rudder cables. I went ahead and ordered some cable covers 3/8"
(not received yet) which I am going to snap over my rudder cables from front
to back and secure to the side of the center console wall so that the rudder
cable slides back and forth through the cable covers just like they do as
they exit the center console in front and the fuselage at the rear.
I will take a picture of the nylon guides installed front and back of the
fuel selector when I go out to the airport later today and post it tonight
for all to see.
Russ Daves #40044 Fuselage on gear and about to hang engine.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector
> valve
> and lines and would appreciate any help.
> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
> selector
> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon
> guide
> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to
> the
> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
> guides
> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Bill Stegemann
> RV6 - sold
> RV10 wings/fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Step Installation & Baggage Floor Access |
Scott & Tim
Thanks for your response, but I asked my question too soon. It seems
that for my quick build fuselage they have already final drilled the step.
I have installed an access panel to get to the step bolts and the wire
run. I used the VA-195C Access Hatch Doubler and the VA-105D Access
Hatch that are use on the wing for the stall warning. I ordered 2 of
each from Vans. They are installed forward and outboard in the baggage
floor board.
Attached are 2 photos of the install. I have reduced down size of the
attachment.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>I know I didn't but I cant remember how I got around it. I also added
>an removable door so that I could take the step on and off but I mainly
>did it because I wasn't ready to put the step on for good because I
>didn't know if I wanted to chrome the step or paint it. And now I can
>take it off when I race the -10 at Reno. Hahaha
>
>I actually just took the step to hpcoatings.com They are currently
>ceramic coating my exhaust system, and the step. They said that the
>ceramic coating is much tougher than powder coating and it has a nice
>chrome look to it. I will post some pictures once it is complete. They
>are going to powder coat my baffles as well.
>
>
>Scott Schmidt
>sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 5:37 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Step Installation
>
>
>I am about ready to install the fuselage steps. In the plans page 30-3
>step 3 has you drill a hole through the guide hole, step, step mount
>and the bottom skin. Then the next step has you drill #30 up from the
>skin. I am planning on installing an access cover to get to the step
>after the baggage floor is riveted in place.
>
>Is there an alternate method to drilling the step that does not involve
>drilling through the bottom skin?
>
>Larry Rosen
>40356
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Guides |
Bill,
I ran into the same situation recently and did a lot of head scratching,
looking at the plans and at pictures on various websites. What I came up
with is the eyelets aren't supposed to be there. They are not in the plans
from what I could tell so I took them out and that opened up a hole to
install the ADEL claps to hold the rudder cables as per the plans. I can't
remember which pictures I referenced, but scan through Tim's website and I
suspect you'll find others don't have those big eyelets near the fuel
selector.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector valve
and lines and would appreciate any help.
The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel selector
valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon guide
strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to the
selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable guides
(eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Bill Stegemann
RV6 - sold
RV10 wings/fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Step Installation & Baggage Floor Access |
Larry,
I think your method is about as perfect as it can get. There may
be other times you will appreciate access to that area. You
did really well.
Tim
Larry Rosen wrote:
> Scott & Tim
> Thanks for your response, but I asked my question too soon. It seems
> that for my quick build fuselage they have already final drilled the step.
>
> I have installed an access panel to get to the step bolts and the wire
> run. I used the VA-195C Access Hatch Doubler and the VA-105D Access
> Hatch that are use on the wing for the stall warning. I ordered 2 of
> each from Vans. They are installed forward and outboard in the baggage
> floor board.
> Attached are 2 photos of the install. I have reduced down size of the
> attachment.
>
> Larry Rosen
> N205EN (reserved)
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I know I didn't but I cant remember how I got around it. I also added
>> an removable door so that I could take the step on and off but I mainly
>> did it because I wasn't ready to put the step on for good because I
>> didn't know if I wanted to chrome the step or paint it. And now I can
>> take it off when I race the -10 at Reno. Hahaha
>>
>> I actually just took the step to hpcoatings.com They are currently
>> ceramic coating my exhaust system, and the step. They said that the
>> ceramic coating is much tougher than powder coating and it has a nice
>> chrome look to it. I will post some pictures once it is complete. They
>> are going to powder coat my baffles as well.
>>
>> Scott Schmidt
>> sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>> Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2005 5:37 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Step Installation
>>
>>
>> I am about ready to install the fuselage steps. In the plans page
>> 30-3 step 3 has you drill a hole through the guide hole, step, step
>> mount and the bottom skin. Then the next step has you drill #30 up
>> from the skin. I am planning on installing an access cover to get to
>> the step after the baggage floor is riveted in place.
>> Is there an alternate method to drilling the step that does not
>> involve drilling through the bottom skin?
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> 40356
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Guides |
I ran into the same problem, so I removed the eyelet's, and installed
the nylon chafe strips. Clearance is now very good, I didn't want to use
90 fittings and possibly restrict the flow. There's no doubt,
installing the fuel lines are a challenge, but it can be done.
Sam Marlow
RV10 fuse
Bill wrote:
>
>I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector valve
>and lines and would appreciate any help.
>The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel selector
>valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon guide
>strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to the
>selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
>called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable guides
>(eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
>the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
>minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
>Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
>thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
>cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>Bill Stegemann
>RV6 - sold
>RV10 wings/fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Blue protective covering question |
One problem with leaving the plastic on occurs if Alumiprep is used to
clean/etch prior to priming. It will run through the rivet holes to the
other side and is very hard to wash completely off. Alumiprep left on the
skin will cause some kind of corrosion or something to occur under the
plastic film if it has been loosened enough to allow moisture to sep
underneath. I have been removing all plastic film when it time to etch/prime
and assemble.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 40-422
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thomas" <rv10pilot(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 tail kit for sale |
I live in Lafayette, La. I would like to build a -10, but that is out of my
budget. An - 8 is more inline with what I can afford.
>From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: RV 10 tail kit for sale
>Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 21:42:57 -0500
>
>I have an RV-8 emp kit that is completed, I am currently building an RV-10.
>
>Is that what you are looking for RV-8
>
>Where are you located?, I am in Lexington, Ky
>
>Jim Combs
>============================================================
>From: Lsssp(at)aol.com
>Date: 2005/11/29 Tue PM 07:41:23 EST
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV 10 tail kit for sale
>
>Hello,
>
>Do you still have this tail kit for sale?
>
>Thanks Scott
>
>============================================================
>
><< VertStab_Rudder(small).JPG >>
><< HorzStab_Elev(small).JPG >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 |
Searched archives but could not find anything. For those who have gotten
further along in your fuselage build. How did you rivet the forward most
rivets in the F-1040 and F-1041. The angles on the bulkhead get in the way
of placing and driving the rivets. I have sent an e-mail to vans asking if
it is appropriate to remove some of the material from the angles.
I have attached a picture.
Rene'
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Guides |
I have attached a picture of the duel rudder cable guides I installed fore
and aft of the fuel selector to insure that the rudder cable doesn't rub on
the fuel lines or connectors. Scott McDaniel supplied the extra plastic
guides, screws, and nuts free when I called Van's and raised the issue.
Russ Daves
#40044 Fuselage on gear
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector
> valve
> and lines and would appreciate any help.
> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
> selector
> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon
> guide
> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to
> the
> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
> guides
> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Bill Stegemann
> RV6 - sold
> RV10 wings/fuselage
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Guides |
Sorry, I hit the send button before attachment on the last e-mail.
Russ
>I have attached a picture of the duel rudder cable guides I installed fore
>and aft of the fuel selector to insure that the rudder cable doesn't rub on
>the fuel lines or connectors. Scott McDaniel supplied the extra plastic
>guides, screws, and nuts free when I called Van's and raised the issue.
>
> Russ Daves
> #40044 Fuselage on gear
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 10:05 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
>
>>
>> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector
>> valve
>> and lines and would appreciate any help.
>> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
>> selector
>> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon
>> guide
>> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to
>> the
>> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
>> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
>> guides
>> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I
>> changed
>> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
>> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
>> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
>> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
>> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Bill Stegemann
>> RV6 - sold
>> RV10 wings/fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | 2005 List of Contributors - Thank You... |
Matt,
I'm glad to contribute. My name's not on the list, which I'm not worried
about, but it may mean you have a glitch somewhere in how the names get
added that you might not know about.
My best,
John Jessen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Subject: RV10-List: 2005 List of Contributors - Thank You...
Dear Listers,
Let me say *thank you* to everyone that made a Contribution in support of
the Lists this year! It was really nice to hear all the great comments
people had regarding what the Lists mean to them and how much they look
forward to reading the new posts each day. As I have said many times
before, running these Lists and creating the many new features is truly a
labor of love. This is why your comments of support and appreciation have
particular meaning for me. Your generosity during this time of List support
only underscores the great sentiments people have made regarding the Lists.
If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser
please feel free to do so. There are still a number of the various Free
Gifts to be had as well. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site
is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises (
http://www.kitlog.com ), and Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP (
http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) for their extremely generous support during
this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are
three great guys that support this industry and I encourage each and every
Lister to have a look at their respective web sites. Thank you Andy, Paul,
and Jon!! Your support is very much appreciated!
And finally, below you will find the 2005 List of Contributors current as of
12/4/05! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people that
make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough
for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser! THANK
YOU!
I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to
have everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be
shipped via US Postal Service.
Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
------------------ 2005 List of Contributors --------------------- Ackerman,
John P Ackland, Andrew Ackworth, Robert Adamson, Arden Akerstrom, Ed
Alberti, David Alexander, George Allee, Joseph Allen, Mark L Alley, Brian
Allington, Wally Allsop, Bryan Alons, Kevin Al, Rupp Altenhein, Gary
Anderson, Edward Anderson, John Anderson, Ken Andrews, Ronald Anliker, Mark
Anthony, Bruce Anton, Bill Applefeld, Gerald Archer, Matt Ashcraft, Keith
Atkinson, Paul Austin, Peter Babb, Tony Bahrns, Stan Baker, Mike Baker, Owen
Baker, Roger Baker, Victor Baleshta, Doug Ballenger, James Barba, Alberto
Barnes, Thomas Barrie, Darwin Barson, Ron Barter, Tom Basiliere, Rick Bass,
George BatchelderJr, Ellery Bates Jr, Marcus Bean, Jim Bean, Robert Bearden,
Jeff Beauchamp, Norm Bellach, Robin Bell, Bruce B Bell, Jack Belvin, Thomas
Benjamin, Hal Benson, Lonn Benson, Lonnie Berges, Duncan Berg, Wayne
Bermudez, John Berner, Walter Bernier, Jim Berry, Bert Berry, Jim Bertz,
Gary Berube, Bob Betz, Judie Bezzard, Richard Bickham, John Bidle, Jerry
Bieberdorf, Roger Billingsley, Dan Billington, Chuck Bish, Dan Black, Milton
Blackwell, Jimmie Blackwell, Rodney Blair, Sean Blank, Stephen Boeshaar,
David Boetto, Steve Bohannon, Larry Bollaert, Brian Bonds, Kevin Boothe,
Gary Booze, Greg Bope, David Bordelon, Bruce Borger, Robert Boucher, Michel
Boulet, Paul Bourne, Larry Bowen, Gordon Bowen, James Bowen, Larry Bowman,
Brice Bowman, John Boxill, Mike Boyd, Bill Boyer, James R Boyle, Neville
Brame, Charles Brandt, Leroy Brasch, Glenn Breckenridge, Bruce Bressler, Wes
Bressler, Wesley Brick, John Brien, Tim Briggs, Gary Brogley, Michael
Brooks, John Brooks, Kenyon Brooks, Sterling Broom, Richard Brown, Allen
Brown, Bob Brunke, Judy Bryan, Mark Buchanan, Guy Buchmann, Keith Buckthal,
Robert Buess, Alfred Bullett, Charles Bullock, Jack Bumhoffer, Al Burden,
Ron Burke, James Burkhardt, Michael Burnaby, John Burnett, Ron Burns, Mark
Burrill, Phil Burrows, Alan Burton, James Busch, Rob Butcher, James Butcher,
Ron Butler, Francis Butler, Sherman Butterfield, John Buyse, Lieven
Caldwell, Rick Cannon, Michael Cannon, Paul Cann, Tony Cantrell, Jim
Cantrell, Jimmy Capen, Ralph Capra, Sal Cardell, Bill Carillon Sr, Paul
Carpenter, Jeffrey Carpenter, Kenneth Carriere, James Carroll, Randy Carter,
David Carter, Howard Carter, PaulQ Carter, Preston Cary, William Casson,
Perry Challgren, Stanley Chambers, Ken Champion, Robert Chandler, Rick
Chang, Ted Chatham, Robert Checkoway, Dan Chelvanayagam, Indran Chenoweth,
William Chevaillier, Mason Circle, Roger Clarke, Christopher Clarke, Paddy
Clark, James Clark, Michael Clay, Dennis Cleaveland Aircraft Tool Cliff,
John Clifford, Dewayne Clyma, Frank Coalwell, Timothy Cochran, Mark Cochran,
Stewart Coggins, Mickey Cole, Gary Cole, Gerry Cole, Roger Colucci, Tony
Combs, Doyle Combs, Jim Comfort, Gordon Compton, Scott Condrey, Bob Connell,
Joseph Conrad, Gerald Constant, Jeremy Cook, Doug Cook, Marc Cooling, John
Cooper, James Cooper, Marcus Corbalis, Leo Corder, Michael Corner, Jim
Corriveau, Grant Cottingham, Richard Cottrell, Larry Coursey, William
Courtney, James Coussons, Herb Cox, John Cravener, Donald Crawford, Corey
Creer, Michael Cribb, William Crockett, Jim Crosby, Harry Crosley, Rich
Cross, Brian Crothers, Bill Cruikshank, Bruce Culver, Ronald Curtis, William
Dalstrom, Douglas Dalton, Bob Daniell, William Danielsen, HansJ%c3%b8rgen
Daves, Russell Davidson, Jeff Davies, Brian Davis, Barry Davis, Deems Davis,
Robert Dawson, Clif Dawson, Garth Decker, Daniel Decramer, Dick Deford,
David De Jong, Jan Delaney, Tom Deloach, Reginald DelPeso, Jose Delsol,
Mich%c3%a8le Dennis, Chris Dewees, Ron Dewey, Debbie Dial, Larry Dickson,
Robert Dieh, Donald Dietrich, Klaus Disher, John Dominy, Kenneth Donato,
John Dondlinger, Leo Doran, Thomas Dorsey, Robert Doud, Herbert Dovey,
Martin Doyle, Mike Draper, Mike Dresden, Robert Dufresne, Robert Duke,
Gordon Dunne, John Durakovich, David East, David Eckenroth, Paul Edgerton,
Wayne Edwards, Ed Edwards, Joe Ehlers, Clyde D Eli, Robert Ellenberger,
Christopher Ellenberger, Mike Elliott, Andrew Ellis, Dale Elrod, Michael
Engel, Jerry Engh, Duncan England, Charles Erickson, Alan Erickson, Gerald
Erickson, Ken Ervin, Thomas Evenson, Roger Fackler, Ken Fair, Deal Falik,
Donald Farmer, Daniel Faulkner, Thomas F, Dwight Featherston, Les Feldman,
Herb Felker, Timothy Fetterman, Lanny Fillinger, Fred Filucci, Michael
Finley, John Fischer, Douglas Fischer, John Fishe, James Fisher, Richard
Fitzpatrick, Robert Fix, Douglas Flamini, Dennis Flavin, John Fluent, Grant
Flynn, Harold Ford, Dean Ford, John Ford, Michael Forrest, Gerald Forsberg,
Erik Fosse, James M Fox, Byron Fox, Stephen Franz, Carl Fray, Jerry Frazier,
Ford French, Edwin French, James Fromm, John Fulgham, Bill Fullilove, Ken
Fulmer, Joseph Fussell, Larry Fux, Franz Gabbard, Gary Gallagher, Noel
Gallenbach, Craig Gantzer, Charles G Gardner, Albert Gardner, Terrence
Garland, Doug Garrou, Douglas Gates, Leo Geese, Ronald Geldermann, Daniel
Genzlinger, Reade George, Joe George, Neal German, Mark Giacona, William
Gibbons, Robert Giddens, Gerald Gillespie, Byron Gillespie, Rl Gilliatt, Jim
Glaeser, Dennis Gleason, Mike Goff, George Goguen, Jon Goguen, Nelson
Golden, Dennis Goode, Richard Goodings, John Goodridge, Stuart Goolsby,
James Gordon, Keith Gottelt, Herbert Gott, Shelby Goudinoff, Peter Gower,
Gary Gowing, John Grabb, Gary Graham, Jim Graham Jr, W Doyce Graichen, Peter
Grajek, Al Grant, Jordan Grantz, Alan Green, Luther Greenough, Jim Griffin,
Bill Griffin, Jim Griffin, Robert Grigson, Greg Grimmonpre, Jerry Groell,
Pascal Groote, Curtis Grosse, John Gummo, Thomas Gustafson, Aaron Gwin,
Rique Hackler, Douglas Haertlein, Frank Hagar, Steve Hale, Ade Haley, Gary
Hall, Charles Hall, Joel Halvorsen, Lyf Hamer, Steve Hamilton, Red Hamilton,
William J Hand, Christopher Hankinson, Julian Hanley, BrettAlan Hanley, Mark
Hansen, ArnoldKristian Hansen, Graham Happ, Paul Harcourt, David Haring,
Robert Harmon, John Harrill, Roy Harrison, Nigel Harrod, Peter Hart, Rob
Hasbrouck, John Hatch, Fletcher Hatfield, Cecil Hatfield, William Hauck,
John Haverlah, Dennis Haynes, Joel Heaton, Herb Hedrick, Keith Hefferan, Rex
Hefner, Jim Hegenauer, Elmar Hegenauer, Manuela Heindl, Karl Hein, Jim
Heller, Martin Helming, LarryRobert Henwick, Mark Heritch, Ian Herminghaus,
John Herron, Al Hershberger, Edward Herzner, Fred Hetrick, Dale Heykoop,
John Hibbing, William Higgins, Floran Hill, Jeff Hill, Ken Hill, Kenneth
Hill, StanleyA Hinde, Frank Hodges, Mitchell Hoffman, Allan Hoffman, Carl
Holifield, Steve Holland, James Holland, Rick Holliday, Robert Holyoke, Ed
Honer, Michael Hooper, Randy Horne, Gilbert Horton, Kevin Howell, Kenneth
Howey, Ralph Huft, John Hughes, Robert Hukill, Chris Hunter, Robert Hunt,
Malcolm Hunton, Jim Hunt, Wallace Hurd, James Hurn, JohnAllen Hurst,
Kingsley Hutchins, Mike Hyde, Ken Isler, Jerry Jacko, Victor W Jaussi,
Curtis Jensen, Charles Jensen, Marinus Jernigan, Carroll Jessen, John
Johannsson, Johann G Johansson, Max John, Kent Johnsen, Svein Johnson, David
Johnson, DennisL Johnson, Forrest Johnson, Ken Johnson, Russell Johnson,
William Johnston, Christopher Johnston, Dudley Johnston, Stephen Jones,
David Jones, Don W Jones, Eric M Jones, Kenneth Joosten, Craig Jordan, JR
Joyce, David Jula, TheodoreF Julian, Raymond Jung, John Jurotich, Matthew
Kaluza, Charles Katra, James Kaufmann, Robert Kayner, Dennis Kearney, John
Keener, Forest Kelly, Michael Kemp, Roger Kenney, Thomas Kerr, Dennis
Kesterton, Donald Kilburg, Larry Killion, Clay Kimsey, Thomas King, John
Kinkade, Les Kinne, Russ Kinney, Kevin Kirk, Floyd Kister, Dale Klein, Larry
Klingmuller, Lothar Knievel, Gerald Knoll, Barrett Knotts, F Barry Knott,
Vernon Kohles, Jerry Koonce, RL Kramer, Ed Krueger, Grant Kruleski, Chet
Kulp, David Kummer, Gerald Kuntz, Paul Kuss, Charles Kyle, Fergus Kyle,
Larry Lackwitz, Raymond Ladd, Pat Laird, Dave Lammers, Dave Lannon, Walter
Lansden, John Larsen, Gene Larson, Joseph Larzilliere, Alain Lathrop, Jim
Laundy, Mike Laurie, Kip Ledbetter, Gene Lederman, Howard Ledoux, Paul Lee,
Terrence Lee, Thomas Leggette, Edward Lehman, Ken Leinberger, Gary Lekven,
Carl Lendon, Ron Lenton, Dennis Lerohl, Gaylen Levy, Pierre Lewis, Scott
Lewis, Terry Lewis, Tim Ligon, Howard Lilja, Ken Lind, David Lindsay, Robert
Linebaugh, Jeff Lineberry, Gary Linse, Mike Lively, Chad Lloyd, Brian Lloyd,
Daniel Loer, Stanley Logan, Michael Long, Charles Long, Eugene Long, Patrick
Longwell, Anna Loring, Arthur Loring Jr, Arthur P Loubert, Gary Lovley,
Forrest Lucas, David Lundin, Richard Lynch, Charles Lyscars, Alan Macdonald,
Larry Macinnes, Bruce Mackay, Alex Macon, Mike Mahurin, Jerry Mains, Ralph
Malczynski, Francis Markle, Jim Marlow, Sam Marshall, Aaron Marshall, FR
Martin, Jay Martin, Mickey Mason, John Mason, Marty Massari, Stephen Massey,
Allen Masys, Daniel Matejcek, Glen Matlack, Dean Matteson, Lynn May, George
May, James Mcallister, Paul Mcbean, John Mcbride, Duncan Mccallister, Don
Mccallum, Robert Mcchesney, James Mcconnell, Roger Mcdaniel, Steve Mcdonald,
Stephen Mcfarland, Larry Mcfarlane, Lloyd Mckeon, Vincent Mckervey, Joseph
Mckinnon, Greg Mcmahon, John Mcnutt, George Medeiros, Joel Melenyzer Iv, Cl
Mell, Roger Merchant, Dean Merrill, Dj Messinger, Paul Meyers, Jess Meyers,
John Meylor, Dean Milgrom, Mark Miller, David Miller, John Miller, Michael
Miller, Terrence Mills, Jack Mitchell, Paul Montagne, Ray Montague, Neita
Montoure, Kenneth Moore, Dave Moore, David Moore, Goff Moore, Paul Moore,
Tom Moore, Warren Moran, Felix Morawski, Brett Morehead, Jim Morley, Hal
MorrisN75up, Dave Morris, Steven Morrow, Dan Mortimore, Terry Moser, Scott
Mountain, Patrick Mrotzek, Dan Mulcahy, Bob Muldoon Jr, Francis Muller,
Albert Muller, Mick Mulwitz, Paul Munn, Mike Munro, Robert Murphy, Walt
Myers, George Myers, Gerald Myers, John Nadeau, Michael Naumuk, William
Navratil, Mark Navratil, Richard Naylor, Doug Needham, James Neilsen,
Richard Neitzel, Richard Nelson, James Nelson, Larry Newkirk, Bill Newsum,
James Nicely, Vince Nichols, Clem Niles, Bruce Nimigon, David Noyer, Robert
Nuckolls Iii, Robert L Nutt, James Obrien, John Ochs, James Ockuly, Bernie
Oconnor, Edward O'Day, Jim Offill, Danny O'Hara, Tom Ohnigian, Steve Okeefe,
Lawrence Oke, Jim Oldford, David Oliver, Bradley Olsen, Paul Olson, Bob
Olson, Brad Olson, Gary Olson, Tim Orear, Jeff Orsborn, Thomas Overgaard,
Allan Owens, Donald Packard, Tom Palamarek, Ted Pansier, Don Partyka, LeeM
Paulich, John Payne, Craig Pearsall, Don Peck, Kenneth Peerenboom, Paul
Pelletier, David Pellien, James Peoples, James Perez, M Domenic Perkinson,
Robert Perry, Ilan Perry, Richard Persels, Lyle Peterson, Alex Peterson,
David A Petri, David Petty, Paul Pfeifer, Michael Pfundt, Jan Phillips, Mark
Phillips, Terrence Pierce, Roger Pierce, Tony Pierson Jr, Edward Pierzina,
Michael Pike, Richard Pilling, Kevin Plecenik, Michael Pocock, Graham Point,
Jeff Polits, Richard Ponzio, John Porter, Richard Portouw, Lawrence Powell,
Ken Prater, Michael Preston, Doug Prevost, Guy Princell, Bill Pritchard,
Jeff Pritchard, Roger Puglise, James Puls, Jeffrey Quinn, Rollie Quist,
David Rabbers, Richard Raby, Ron Radford, Joe Rammos, Ricardo Randolph,
George Ransom, Brad Rataj, Mark Ray, Carl Reel, David Reese, Craig Reese,
Wayne Reeves, Dan Reid, Greg Reining, Bill Reining, Jonathan Reusser,
Hans-peter Reynolds, Richard Ribb, Dan Rice, Paul Richardson, Colin
Richardson, Paul Richards, Stephen Rickard, Ian Rickman, Loy Ricks, Allen
Rigby, David Riggs, Lynn Rigney, Bruce Risch, Robert Ritter, Mark T Roberts,
Gary Roberts, John Robertson, Bob Roberts, Rick Robinette, William Robson,
Peter Rodebush, James Rodgers, Paul Rodriguez, Paul Rodriguez, Pedro Roehr,
Michael Ronnau, James Ross, Christopher Ross, Jonathan Rousselle, Kenneth
Rowbotham, Chuck Rowe, Denny Rowe, Jay Rueb, Duane Ruksnaitis, WilliamF
Russell, Larry Ryan, Michael Sa, Carlos Sagerser, James Sager, Truman
Saligman, Ira Sallas, C William Salter, Phillip Sanders, Andrew Sanford,
Fred Sapp, Douglas Sargeant, Jack Sargent, Thomas Savarese, Anthony Dennis
Sax, Sam Saylor, David Schemmel, Grant Schertz, William Schieber, Cedric
Schieffer, Charles Schilf, Richard Schlafly, Fred Schlatterer, Bill
Schlosser, Kevin Schmidt, John Schmitendorf, Bill Schneider, Benjamin
Schneider, Werner Schoenberger, Robert Schott, Jared Schrader, Kurt Schreck,
Ron Schrimmer, Mark Schroeder, Earl Schroeder, John Schulke, Thomas
Scott,Jr, Fred W Scott, Mark Scroggs, Ross Seagrave, Scott Seal, John
Selby,Jr, Jim Setser, David Seve, Eddie Shablow, John Shafer, James Shanks,
Jim Shank, William Shannon, Kevin Sharp, Michael Sharp, Ralph Shaw, Cliff
Shaw, Rex Shepherd, Dallas Shepherd, Stanislaus Sheridan, Roger Sherry,
James Shiple, Fred Shipley, RobWM Shipley, Walt Shumaker, Jim Siegfried,
Oldbob Simmons, Kendall Simpson, Skip Simutis, Frank J Sinclair, Michael
Sinke, Jim Sipp, Richard Sisson, Phil Skelly, Brian Skyring, Kerry Slatt,
Gary Small, Thomas Smart, Steven Smith, Bret Smith, DannyL Smith, Gene
Smith, Jeff Smith, Kirk Smith, Roland Smith, Ronal Smith, Zed Snedaker, Bob
Snyder, Bruce Soikkeli, Robert Solecki, John Sparks, Timothy Spaur, Chuck
Specht, Stan Spencer, Scott Springer, Gerald Spudis, Robert Staal, Stephen
Staley, Dick Starnes, Robert Starn, JH "kabong"
Stefan, Leon
Steitle, Mark
Stelwagon, Frank
Stephanak, Bob
Stevenson, Will
Stewart, Michael
Stinemetze, Thomas
St-laurent, Ray
Stone, Christopher
Stone, Jim
Strange, Ted
Stribling, James
Strong, Gary
Sutterfield, Stan
Swaney, Mark
Swankie, Ian
Swartout, John
Swinford, George
Syverson, David
Szantho, John B
Tarmar, Brian
Tasker, Richard
Tatro, John
Tatz, Norm
Tauchen, Bryan
Taupier, John
Teegarden, Vaughn
Testement, John
Tew, Stanley
Textor, Jack
Tezyk, Robert
Thatcher, Scott
Therrien, Michel
Tholen, Tom
Thomas, Bruce
Thomas, Glenn
Thomas, James
Thomas, Lee
Thomason, Mannan
Thomason, Michael
Thomas, Stephen
Thorp, Kevin
Thwing, Randy
Tichy, Robert
Tilford, Stephen
Tillmann, Johan
Timm, Peter
Timoney, James
Tinker, R Rupert
Tomlin, Thomas
Tomm, Bevan
Tompkins, Jeff
Toro, Jose
Tower, John
Trombley, Erich
Trost, Sebastian
Trotter, Paul
Tuck, John
Tupper, Kirby
Turrell, Mike
Turrentine, Donna
Tuton, Bill
Tyler, George
Unruh, Brian
Unternaehrer, Rolf
Upshaw, Roman
Usrey, Reed
Utsey, Randy
Utterback, ThomasE
Vader, Tim
Valovich, Paul
Vandenberg, Daniel
Van Der Voort, Hans
VanDerZouw, Henkjan
Van Eldik, Anthony
Vangrunsven, Stan
VanHeeswijk, J
Van Lanen, David
Van Winkle, Alden
Varnes, William
Vaughan, Cye
Vaughan, Lee
Venables, JohnRoger
Verdev, Victor
Versteeg, Maarten
Vervoort, Jef
Vetterli, Richard
Vinal, Adelbert
Vinroot, Robert
Vogt, Gary
Von Bevern, Brian
Von Doymi, Carl
VonRuden, Dennis
Voss, Richard
Vranken, Karel
Wade, Jim
Wagner Jr, James E
Wagoner, Richard
Waligroski, Gregg
Walker, Robbie
Walker, Tommy
Walker, Valerie
Walker, Weston
Walmsley, Brett
Walrath, Howard
Walsh, Denis
Wambolt, Charles
Ward, Ann
Washburn, Oliver
Watson, Terrence
Weaver, Fred
Webb, Randol
Wehner, Clem
Weiler, Douglas C
Weinstock, Steven
Weisfeld, Hans-peter
Weiss, Richard
Welsch, Philip
Welsh, Don
Werner, Russell
Wetzel, Bob
Whelan, Thomas
White, Bob
White, Charles
Whiteley, Kenneth
White, Phil
Whittfield, Clive
Whittington, Dewitt
Wigney, John
Wilde, Daniel
Williamson, Richard
Williamson, William
Williams, Terry
Willis, Tim
Wilson, James
Wilson, Kelly
Winburn, Larry
Winings, James
Wither, Louis
Woboril, David
Wood, Larry
Woods, Donald
Wsiaki, Michael
Wynn, Michael
Yeamans, David
York, Richard
Young, Al
Young, Dan
Young, Dee
Young, Greg
Zakreski, Steve
Zecherle, John
Zelinski, Alan
Zilz, Dave
Zirges, Malcolm
Zollinger, Duane
Zuniga, Oscar
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2005 List of Contributors - Thank You... |
Strange, John...I'm not on the list either, and I more than
doubled my last year contribution. Oh well. I guess giving
is about the cause, not the contributor... :) Matt has
done a great job this year for us.
Tim
John Jessen wrote:
>
> Matt,
>
> I'm glad to contribute. My name's not on the list, which I'm not worried
> about, but it may mean you have a glitch somewhere in how the names get
> added that you might not know about.
>
> My best,
>
> John Jessen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 3:15 AM
> To: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 2005 List of Contributors - Thank You...
>
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Let me say *thank you* to everyone that made a Contribution in support of
> the Lists this year! It was really nice to hear all the great comments
> people had regarding what the Lists mean to them and how much they look
> forward to reading the new posts each day. As I have said many times
> before, running these Lists and creating the many new features is truly a
> labor of love. This is why your comments of support and appreciation have
> particular meaning for me. Your generosity during this time of List support
> only underscores the great sentiments people have made regarding the Lists.
>
> If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund Raiser
> please feel free to do so. There are still a number of the various Free
> Gifts to be had as well. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web site
> is:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (
> http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises (
> http://www.kitlog.com ), and Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP (
> http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) for their extremely generous support during
> this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise. These are
> three great guys that support this industry and I encourage each and every
> Lister to have a look at their respective web sites. Thank you Andy, Paul,
> and Jon!! Your support is very much appreciated!
>
> And finally, below you will find the 2005 List of Contributors current as of
> 12/4/05! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people that
> make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you enough
> for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser! THANK
> YOU!
>
> I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope to
> have everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts will be
> shipped via US Postal Service.
>
> Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser successful!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Administrator
>
> ------------------ 2005 List of Contributors --------------------- Ackerman,
> John P Ackland, Andrew Ackworth, Robert Adamson, Arden Akerstrom, Ed
> Alberti, David Alexander, George Allee, Joseph Allen, Mark L Alley, Brian
> Allington, Wally Allsop, Bryan Alons, Kevin Al, Rupp Altenhein, Gary
> Anderson, Edward Anderson, John Anderson, Ken Andrews, Ronald Anliker, Mark
> Anthony, Bruce Anton, Bill Applefeld, Gerald Archer, Matt Ashcraft, Keith
> Atkinson, Paul Austin, Peter Babb, Tony Bahrns, Stan Baker, Mike Baker, Owen
> Baker, Roger Baker, Victor Baleshta, Doug Ballenger, James Barba, Alberto
> Barnes, Thomas Barrie, Darwin Barson, Ron Barter, Tom Basiliere, Rick Bass,
> George BatchelderJr, Ellery Bates Jr, Marcus Bean, Jim Bean, Robert Bearden,
> Jeff Beauchamp, Norm Bellach, Robin Bell, Bruce B Bell, Jack Belvin, Thomas
> Benjamin, Hal Benson, Lonn Benson, Lonnie Berges, Duncan Berg, Wayne
> Bermudez, John Berner, Walter Bernier, Jim Berry, Bert Berry, Jim Bertz,
> Gary Berube, Bob Betz, Judie Bezzard, Richard Bickham, John Bidle, Jerry
> Bieberdorf, Roger Billingsley, Dan Billington, Chuck Bish, Dan Black, Milton
> Blackwell, Jimmie Blackwell, Rodney Blair, Sean Blank, Stephen Boeshaar,
> David Boetto, Steve Bohannon, Larry Bollaert, Brian Bonds, Kevin Boothe,
> Gary Booze, Greg Bope, David Bordelon, Bruce Borger, Robert Boucher, Michel
> Boulet, Paul Bourne, Larry Bowen, Gordon Bowen, James Bowen, Larry Bowman,
> Brice Bowman, John Boxill, Mike Boyd, Bill Boyer, James R Boyle, Neville
> Brame, Charles Brandt, Leroy Brasch, Glenn Breckenridge, Bruce Bressler, Wes
> Bressler, Wesley Brick, John Brien, Tim Briggs, Gary Brogley, Michael
> Brooks, John Brooks, Kenyon Brooks, Sterling Broom, Richard Brown, Allen
> Brown, Bob Brunke, Judy Bryan, Mark Buchanan, Guy Buchmann, Keith Buckthal,
> Robert Buess, Alfred Bullett, Charles Bullock, Jack Bumhoffer, Al Burden,
> Ron Burke, James Burkhardt, Michael Burnaby, John Burnett, Ron Burns, Mark
> Burrill, Phil Burrows, Alan Burton, James Busch, Rob Butcher, James Butcher,
> Ron Butler, Francis Butler, Sherman Butterfield, John Buyse, Lieven
> Caldwell, Rick Cannon, Michael Cannon, Paul Cann, Tony Cantrell, Jim
> Cantrell, Jimmy Capen, Ralph Capra, Sal Cardell, Bill Carillon Sr, Paul
> Carpenter, Jeffrey Carpenter, Kenneth Carriere, James Carroll, Randy Carter,
> David Carter, Howard Carter, PaulQ Carter, Preston Cary, William Casson,
> Perry Challgren, Stanley Chambers, Ken Champion, Robert Chandler, Rick
> Chang, Ted Chatham, Robert Checkoway, Dan Chelvanayagam, Indran Chenoweth,
> William Chevaillier, Mason Circle, Roger Clarke, Christopher Clarke, Paddy
> Clark, James Clark, Michael Clay, Dennis Cleaveland Aircraft Tool Cliff,
> John Clifford, Dewayne Clyma, Frank Coalwell, Timothy Cochran, Mark Cochran,
> Stewart Coggins, Mickey Cole, Gary Cole, Gerry Cole, Roger Colucci, Tony
> Combs, Doyle Combs, Jim Comfort, Gordon Compton, Scott Condrey, Bob Connell,
> Joseph Conrad, Gerald Constant, Jeremy Cook, Doug Cook, Marc Cooling, John
> Cooper, James Cooper, Marcus Corbalis, Leo Corder, Michael Corner, Jim
> Corriveau, Grant Cottingham, Richard Cottrell, Larry Coursey, William
> Courtney, James Coussons, Herb Cox, John Cravener, Donald Crawford, Corey
> Creer, Michael Cribb, William Crockett, Jim Crosby, Harry Crosley, Rich
> Cross, Brian Crothers, Bill Cruikshank, Bruce Culver, Ronald Curtis, William
> Dalstrom, Douglas Dalton, Bob Daniell, William Danielsen, HansJ%c3%b8rgen
> Daves, Russell Davidson, Jeff Davies, Brian Davis, Barry Davis, Deems Davis,
> Robert Dawson, Clif Dawson, Garth Decker, Daniel Decramer, Dick Deford,
> David De Jong, Jan Delaney, Tom Deloach, Reginald DelPeso, Jose Delsol,
> Mich%c3%a8le Dennis, Chris Dewees, Ron Dewey, Debbie Dial, Larry Dickson,
> Robert Dieh, Donald Dietrich, Klaus Disher, John Dominy, Kenneth Donato,
> John Dondlinger, Leo Doran, Thomas Dorsey, Robert Doud, Herbert Dovey,
> Martin Doyle, Mike Draper, Mike Dresden, Robert Dufresne, Robert Duke,
> Gordon Dunne, John Durakovich, David East, David Eckenroth, Paul Edgerton,
> Wayne Edwards, Ed Edwards, Joe Ehlers, Clyde D Eli, Robert Ellenberger,
> Christopher Ellenberger, Mike Elliott, Andrew Ellis, Dale Elrod, Michael
> Engel, Jerry Engh, Duncan England, Charles Erickson, Alan Erickson, Gerald
> Erickson, Ken Ervin, Thomas Evenson, Roger Fackler, Ken Fair, Deal Falik,
> Donald Farmer, Daniel Faulkner, Thomas F, Dwight Featherston, Les Feldman,
> Herb Felker, Timothy Fetterman, Lanny Fillinger, Fred Filucci, Michael
> Finley, John Fischer, Douglas Fischer, John Fishe, James Fisher, Richard
> Fitzpatrick, Robert Fix, Douglas Flamini, Dennis Flavin, John Fluent, Grant
> Flynn, Harold Ford, Dean Ford, John Ford, Michael Forrest, Gerald Forsberg,
> Erik Fosse, James M Fox, Byron Fox, Stephen Franz, Carl Fray, Jerry Frazier,
> Ford French, Edwin French, James Fromm, John Fulgham, Bill Fullilove, Ken
> Fulmer, Joseph Fussell, Larry Fux, Franz Gabbard, Gary Gallagher, Noel
> Gallenbach, Craig Gantzer, Charles G Gardner, Albert Gardner, Terrence
> Garland, Doug Garrou, Douglas Gates, Leo Geese, Ronald Geldermann, Daniel
> Genzlinger, Reade George, Joe George, Neal German, Mark Giacona, William
> Gibbons, Robert Giddens, Gerald Gillespie, Byron Gillespie, Rl Gilliatt, Jim
> Glaeser, Dennis Gleason, Mike Goff, George Goguen, Jon Goguen, Nelson
> Golden, Dennis Goode, Richard Goodings, John Goodridge, Stuart Goolsby,
> James Gordon, Keith Gottelt, Herbert Gott, Shelby Goudinoff, Peter Gower,
> Gary Gowing, John Grabb, Gary Graham, Jim Graham Jr, W Doyce Graichen, Peter
> Grajek, Al Grant, Jordan Grantz, Alan Green, Luther Greenough, Jim Griffin,
> Bill Griffin, Jim Griffin, Robert Grigson, Greg Grimmonpre, Jerry Groell,
> Pascal Groote, Curtis Grosse, John Gummo, Thomas Gustafson, Aaron Gwin,
> Rique Hackler, Douglas Haertlein, Frank Hagar, Steve Hale, Ade Haley, Gary
> Hall, Charles Hall, Joel Halvorsen, Lyf Hamer, Steve Hamilton, Red Hamilton,
> William J Hand, Christopher Hankinson, Julian Hanley, BrettAlan Hanley, Mark
> Hansen, ArnoldKristian Hansen, Graham Happ, Paul Harcourt, David Haring,
> Robert Harmon, John Harrill, Roy Harrison, Nigel Harrod, Peter Hart, Rob
> Hasbrouck, John Hatch, Fletcher Hatfield, Cecil Hatfield, William Hauck,
> John Haverlah, Dennis Haynes, Joel Heaton, Herb Hedrick, Keith Hefferan, Rex
> Hefner, Jim Hegenauer, Elmar Hegenauer, Manuela Heindl, Karl Hein, Jim
> Heller, Martin Helming, LarryRobert Henwick, Mark Heritch, Ian Herminghaus,
> John Herron, Al Hershberger, Edward Herzner, Fred Hetrick, Dale Heykoop,
> John Hibbing, William Higgins, Floran Hill, Jeff Hill, Ken Hill, Kenneth
> Hill, StanleyA Hinde, Frank Hodges, Mitchell Hoffman, Allan Hoffman, Carl
> Holifield, Steve Holland, James Holland, Rick Holliday, Robert Holyoke, Ed
> Honer, Michael Hooper, Randy Horne, Gilbert Horton, Kevin Howell, Kenneth
> Howey, Ralph Huft, John Hughes, Robert Hukill, Chris Hunter, Robert Hunt,
> Malcolm Hunton, Jim Hunt, Wallace Hurd, James Hurn, JohnAllen Hurst,
> Kingsley Hutchins, Mike Hyde, Ken Isler, Jerry Jacko, Victor W Jaussi,
> Curtis Jensen, Charles Jensen, Marinus Jernigan, Carroll Jessen, John
> Johannsson, Johann G Johansson, Max John, Kent Johnsen, Svein Johnson, David
> Johnson, DennisL Johnson, Forrest Johnson, Ken Johnson, Russell Johnson,
> William Johnston, Christopher Johnston, Dudley Johnston, Stephen Jones,
> David Jones, Don W Jones, Eric M Jones, Kenneth Joosten, Craig Jordan, JR
> Joyce, David Jula, TheodoreF Julian, Raymond Jung, John Jurotich, Matthew
> Kaluza, Charles Katra, James Kaufmann, Robert Kayner, Dennis Kearney, John
> Keener, Forest Kelly, Michael Kemp, Roger Kenney, Thomas Kerr, Dennis
> Kesterton, Donald Kilburg, Larry Killion, Clay Kimsey, Thomas King, John
> Kinkade, Les Kinne, Russ Kinney, Kevin Kirk, Floyd Kister, Dale Klein, Larry
> Klingmuller, Lothar Knievel, Gerald Knoll, Barrett Knotts, F Barry Knott,
> Vernon Kohles, Jerry Koonce, RL Kramer, Ed Krueger, Grant Kruleski, Chet
> Kulp, David Kummer, Gerald Kuntz, Paul Kuss, Charles Kyle, Fergus Kyle,
> Larry Lackwitz, Raymond Ladd, Pat Laird, Dave Lammers, Dave Lannon, Walter
> Lansden, John Larsen, Gene Larson, Joseph Larzilliere, Alain Lathrop, Jim
> Laundy, Mike Laurie, Kip Ledbetter, Gene Lederman, Howard Ledoux, Paul Lee,
> Terrence Lee, Thomas Leggette, Edward Lehman, Ken Leinberger, Gary Lekven,
> Carl Lendon, Ron Lenton, Dennis Lerohl, Gaylen Levy, Pierre Lewis, Scott
> Lewis, Terry Lewis, Tim Ligon, Howard Lilja, Ken Lind, David Lindsay, Robert
> Linebaugh, Jeff Lineberry, Gary Linse, Mike Lively, Chad Lloyd, Brian Lloyd,
> Daniel Loer, Stanley Logan, Michael Long, Charles Long, Eugene Long, Patrick
> Longwell, Anna Loring, Arthur Loring Jr, Arthur P Loubert, Gary Lovley,
> Forrest Lucas, David Lundin, Richard Lynch, Charles Lyscars, Alan Macdonald,
> Larry Macinnes, Bruce Mackay, Alex Macon, Mike Mahurin, Jerry Mains, Ralph
> Malczynski, Francis Markle, Jim Marlow, Sam Marshall, Aaron Marshall, FR
> Martin, Jay Martin, Mickey Mason, John Mason, Marty Massari, Stephen Massey,
> Allen Masys, Daniel Matejcek, Glen Matlack, Dean Matteson, Lynn May, George
> May, James Mcallister, Paul Mcbean, John Mcbride, Duncan Mccallister, Don
> Mccallum, Robert Mcchesney, James Mcconnell, Roger Mcdaniel, Steve Mcdonald,
> Stephen Mcfarland, Larry Mcfarlane, Lloyd Mckeon, Vincent Mckervey, Joseph
> Mckinnon, Greg Mcmahon, John Mcnutt, George Medeiros, Joel Melenyzer Iv, Cl
> Mell, Roger Merchant, Dean Merrill, Dj Messinger, Paul Meyers, Jess Meyers,
> John Meylor, Dean Milgrom, Mark Miller, David Miller, John Miller, Michael
> Miller, Terrence Mills, Jack Mitchell, Paul Montagne, Ray Montague, Neita
> Montoure, Kenneth Moore, Dave Moore, David Moore, Goff Moore, Paul Moore,
> Tom Moore, Warren Moran, Felix Morawski, Brett Morehead, Jim Morley, Hal
> MorrisN75up, Dave Morris, Steven Morrow, Dan Mortimore, Terry Moser, Scott
> Mountain, Patrick Mrotzek, Dan Mulcahy, Bob Muldoon Jr, Francis Muller,
> Albert Muller, Mick Mulwitz, Paul Munn, Mike Munro, Robert Murphy, Walt
> Myers, George Myers, Gerald Myers, John Nadeau, Michael Naumuk, William
> Navratil, Mark Navratil, Richard Naylor, Doug Needham, James Neilsen,
> Richard Neitzel, Richard Nelson, James Nelson, Larry Newkirk, Bill Newsum,
> James Nicely, Vince Nichols, Clem Niles, Bruce Nimigon, David Noyer, Robert
> Nuckolls Iii, Robert L Nutt, James Obrien, John Ochs, James Ockuly, Bernie
> Oconnor, Edward O'Day, Jim Offill, Danny O'Hara, Tom Ohnigian, Steve Okeefe,
> Lawrence Oke, Jim Oldford, David Oliver, Bradley Olsen, Paul Olson, Bob
> Olson, Brad Olson, Gary Olson, Tim Orear, Jeff Orsborn, Thomas Overgaard,
> Allan Owens, Donald Packard, Tom Palamarek, Ted Pansier, Don Partyka, LeeM
> Paulich, John Payne, Craig Pearsall, Don Peck, Kenneth Peerenboom, Paul
> Pelletier, David Pellien, James Peoples, James Perez, M Domenic Perkinson,
> Robert Perry, Ilan Perry, Richard Persels, Lyle Peterson, Alex Peterson,
> David A Petri, David Petty, Paul Pfeifer, Michael Pfundt, Jan Phillips, Mark
> Phillips, Terrence Pierce, Roger Pierce, Tony Pierson Jr, Edward Pierzina,
> Michael Pike, Richard Pilling, Kevin Plecenik, Michael Pocock, Graham Point,
> Jeff Polits, Richard Ponzio, John Porter, Richard Portouw, Lawrence Powell,
> Ken Prater, Michael Preston, Doug Prevost, Guy Princell, Bill Pritchard,
> Jeff Pritchard, Roger Puglise, James Puls, Jeffrey Quinn, Rollie Quist,
> David Rabbers, Richard Raby, Ron Radford, Joe Rammos, Ricardo Randolph,
> George Ransom, Brad Rataj, Mark Ray, Carl Reel, David Reese, Craig Reese,
> Wayne Reeves, Dan Reid, Greg Reining, Bill Reining, Jonathan Reusser,
> Hans-peter Reynolds, Richard Ribb, Dan Rice, Paul Richardson, Colin
> Richardson, Paul Richards, Stephen Rickard, Ian Rickman, Loy Ricks, Allen
> Rigby, David Riggs, Lynn Rigney, Bruce Risch, Robert Ritter, Mark T Roberts,
> Gary Roberts, John Robertson, Bob Roberts, Rick Robinette, William Robson,
> Peter Rodebush, James Rodgers, Paul Rodriguez, Paul Rodriguez, Pedro Roehr,
> Michael Ronnau, James Ross, Christopher Ross, Jonathan Rousselle, Kenneth
> Rowbotham, Chuck Rowe, Denny Rowe, Jay Rueb, Duane Ruksnaitis, WilliamF
> Russell, Larry Ryan, Michael Sa, Carlos Sagerser, James Sager, Truman
> Saligman, Ira Sallas, C William Salter, Phillip Sanders, Andrew Sanford,
> Fred Sapp, Douglas Sargeant, Jack Sargent, Thomas Savarese, Anthony Dennis
> Sax, Sam Saylor, David Schemmel, Grant Schertz, William Schieber, Cedric
> Schieffer, Charles Schilf, Richard Schlafly, Fred Schlatterer, Bill
> Schlosser, Kevin Schmidt, John Schmitendorf, Bill Schneider, Benjamin
> Schneider, Werner Schoenberger, Robert Schott, Jared Schrader, Kurt Schreck,
> Ron Schrimmer, Mark Schroeder, Earl Schroeder, John Schulke, Thomas
> Scott,Jr, Fred W Scott, Mark Scroggs, Ross Seagrave, Scott Seal, John
> Selby,Jr, Jim Setser, David Seve, Eddie Shablow, John Shafer, James Shanks,
> Jim Shank, William Shannon, Kevin Sharp, Michael Sharp, Ralph Shaw, Cliff
> Shaw, Rex Shepherd, Dallas Shepherd, Stanislaus Sheridan, Roger Sherry,
> James Shiple, Fred Shipley, RobWM Shipley, Walt Shumaker, Jim Siegfried,
> Oldbob Simmons, Kendall Simpson, Skip Simutis, Frank J Sinclair, Michael
> Sinke, Jim Sipp, Richard Sisson, Phil Skelly, Brian Skyring, Kerry Slatt,
> Gary Small, Thomas Smart, Steven Smith, Bret Smith, DannyL Smith, Gene
> Smith, Jeff Smith, Kirk Smith, Roland Smith, Ronal Smith, Zed Snedaker, Bob
> Snyder, Bruce Soikkeli, Robert Solecki, John Sparks, Timothy Spaur, Chuck
> Specht, Stan Spencer, Scott Springer, Gerald Spudis, Robert Staal, Stephen
> Staley, Dick Starnes, Robert Starn, JH "kabong"
> Stefan, Leon
> Steitle, Mark
> Stelwagon, Frank
> Stephanak, Bob
> Stevenson, Will
> Stewart, Michael
> Stinemetze, Thomas
> St-laurent, Ray
> Stone, Christopher
> Stone, Jim
> Strange, Ted
> Stribling, James
> Strong, Gary
> Sutterfield, Stan
> Swaney, Mark
> Swankie, Ian
> Swartout, John
> Swinford, George
> Syverson, David
> Szantho, John B
> Tarmar, Brian
> Tasker, Richard
> Tatro, John
> Tatz, Norm
> Tauchen, Bryan
> Taupier, John
> Teegarden, Vaughn
> Testement, John
> Tew, Stanley
> Textor, Jack
> Tezyk, Robert
> Thatcher, Scott
> Therrien, Michel
> Tholen, Tom
> Thomas, Bruce
> Thomas, Glenn
> Thomas, James
> Thomas, Lee
> Thomason, Mannan
> Thomason, Michael
> Thomas, Stephen
> Thorp, Kevin
> Thwing, Randy
> Tichy, Robert
> Tilford, Stephen
> Tillmann, Johan
> Timm, Peter
> Timoney, James
> Tinker, R Rupert
> Tomlin, Thomas
> Tomm, Bevan
> Tompkins, Jeff
> Toro, Jose
> Tower, John
> Trombley, Erich
> Trost, Sebastian
> Trotter, Paul
> Tuck, John
> Tupper, Kirby
> Turrell, Mike
> Turrentine, Donna
> Tuton, Bill
> Tyler, George
> Unruh, Brian
> Unternaehrer, Rolf
> Upshaw, Roman
> Usrey, Reed
> Utsey, Randy
> Utterback, ThomasE
> Vader, Tim
> Valovich, Paul
> Vandenberg, Daniel
> Van Der Voort, Hans
> VanDerZouw, Henkjan
> Van Eldik, Anthony
> Vangrunsven, Stan
> VanHeeswijk, J
> Van Lanen, David
> Van Winkle, Alden
> Varnes, William
> Vaughan, Cye
> Vaughan, Lee
> Venables, JohnRoger
> Verdev, Victor
> Versteeg, Maarten
> Vervoort, Jef
> Vetterli, Richard
> Vinal, Adelbert
> Vinroot, Robert
> Vogt, Gary
> Von Bevern, Brian
> Von Doymi, Carl
> VonRuden, Dennis
> Voss, Richard
> Vranken, Karel
> Wade, Jim
> Wagner Jr, James E
> Wagoner, Richard
> Waligroski, Gregg
> Walker, Robbie
> Walker, Tommy
> Walker, Valerie
> Walker, Weston
> Walmsley, Brett
> Walrath, Howard
> Walsh, Denis
> Wambolt, Charles
> Ward, Ann
> Washburn, Oliver
> Watson, Terrence
> Weaver, Fred
> Webb, Randol
> Wehner, Clem
> Weiler, Douglas C
> Weinstock, Steven
> Weisfeld, Hans-peter
> Weiss, Richard
> Welsch, Philip
> Welsh, Don
> Werner, Russell
> Wetzel, Bob
> Whelan, Thomas
> White, Bob
> White, Charles
> Whiteley, Kenneth
> White, Phil
> Whittfield, Clive
> Whittington, Dewitt
> Wigney, John
> Wilde, Daniel
> Williamson, Richard
> Williamson, William
> Williams, Terry
> Willis, Tim
> Wilson, James
> Wilson, Kelly
> Winburn, Larry
> Winings, James
> Wither, Louis
> Woboril, David
> Wood, Larry
> Woods, Donald
> Wsiaki, Michael
> Wynn, Michael
> Yeamans, David
> York, Richard
> Young, Al
> Young, Dan
> Young, Dee
> Young, Greg
> Zakreski, Steve
> Zecherle, John
> Zelinski, Alan
> Zilz, Dave
> Zirges, Malcolm
> Zollinger, Duane
> Zuniga, Oscar
>
>
>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft do not
> archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone Attach - Side Skin Transition |
I have the tail cone attached to the fuselage. Where the Mid Side Skin
(F-1070) meets with the Tailcone Side Skin (F-1073) they lap over each
other forming a hard step like transition. Is it acceptable to feather
(file) back the Mid Side Skin edge to make a smoother transition?
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2005 List of Contributors - Thank You... |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I think Matt's got a problem with his list - I'm not there either but my
(somewhat rare) last name is there with Scott as a first name.
Matt does us all a great service, just looks like a glitch someplace.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 2005 List of Contributors - Thank You...
Strange, John...I'm not on the list either, and I more than
doubled my last year contribution. Oh well. I guess giving
is about the cause, not the contributor... :) Matt has
done a great job this year for us.
Tim
John Jessen wrote:
>
> Matt,
>
> I'm glad to contribute. My name's not on the list, which I'm not
worried
> about, but it may mean you have a glitch somewhere in how the names
get
> added that you might not know about.
>
> My best,
>
> John Jessen
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 3:15 AM
> To: dralle(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 2005 List of Contributors - Thank You...
>
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Let me say *thank you* to everyone that made a Contribution in support
of
> the Lists this year! It was really nice to hear all the great
comments
> people had regarding what the Lists mean to them and how much they
look
> forward to reading the new posts each day. As I have said many times
> before, running these Lists and creating the many new features is
truly a
> labor of love. This is why your comments of support and appreciation
have
> particular meaning for me. Your generosity during this time of List
support
> only underscores the great sentiments people have made regarding the
Lists.
>
> If you haven't yet made a Contribution in support of this year's Fund
Raiser
> please feel free to do so. There are still a number of the various
Free
> Gifts to be had as well. Once again, the URL for the Contribution web
site
> is:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> I would like to thank Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (
> http://www.buildersbooks.com ), Paul Besing of Aeroware Enterprises (
> http://www.kitlog.com ), and Jon Croke of Homebuilt HELP (
> http://www.homebuilthelp.com ) for their extremely generous support
during
> this year's Fund Raiser through the contribution of merchandise.
These are
> three great guys that support this industry and I encourage each and
every
> Lister to have a look at their respective web sites. Thank you Andy,
Paul,
> and Jon!! Your support is very much appreciated!
>
> And finally, below you will find the 2005 List of Contributors current
as of
> 12/4/05! Have a look at this list of names as these are the people
that
> make all of these List services possible! I can't thank each of you
enough
> for your support and great feedback during this year's Fund Raiser!
THANK
> YOU!
>
> I will be shipping out all of the gifts in the next few weeks and hope
to
> have everything out by the end of the month. In most cases, gifts
will be
> shipped via US Postal Service.
>
> Once again, thank you for making this year's List Fund Raiser
successful!
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Administrator
>
> ------------------ 2005 List of Contributors ---------------------
Ackerman,
> John P Ackland, Andrew Ackworth, Robert Adamson, Arden Akerstrom, Ed
> Alberti, David Alexander, George Allee, Joseph Allen, Mark L Alley,
Brian
> Allington, Wally Allsop, Bryan Alons, Kevin Al, Rupp Altenhein, Gary
> Anderson, Edward Anderson, John Anderson, Ken Andrews, Ronald Anliker,
Mark
> Anthony, Bruce Anton, Bill Applefeld, Gerald Archer, Matt Ashcraft,
Keith
> Atkinson, Paul Austin, Peter Babb, Tony Bahrns, Stan Baker, Mike
Baker, Owen
> Baker, Roger Baker, Victor Baleshta, Doug Ballenger, James Barba,
Alberto
> Barnes, Thomas Barrie, Darwin Barson, Ron Barter, Tom Basiliere, Rick
Bass,
> George BatchelderJr, Ellery Bates Jr, Marcus Bean, Jim Bean, Robert
Bearden,
> Jeff Beauchamp, Norm Bellach, Robin Bell, Bruce B Bell, Jack Belvin,
Thomas
> Benjamin, Hal Benson, Lonn Benson, Lonnie Berges, Duncan Berg, Wayne
> Bermudez, John Berner, Walter Bernier, Jim Berry, Bert Berry, Jim
Bertz,
> Gary Berube, Bob Betz, Judie Bezzard, Richard Bickham, John Bidle,
Jerry
> Bieberdorf, Roger Billingsley, Dan Billington, Chuck Bish, Dan Black,
Milton
> Blackwell, Jimmie Blackwell, Rodney Blair, Sean Blank, Stephen
Boeshaar,
> David Boetto, Steve Bohannon, Larry Bollaert, Brian Bonds, Kevin
Boothe,
> Gary Booze, Greg Bope, David Bordelon, Bruce Borger, Robert Boucher,
Michel
> Boulet, Paul Bourne, Larry Bowen, Gordon Bowen, James Bowen, Larry
Bowman,
> Brice Bowman, John Boxill, Mike Boyd, Bill Boyer, James R Boyle,
Neville
> Brame, Charles Brandt, Leroy Brasch, Glenn Breckenridge, Bruce
Bressler, Wes
> Bressler, Wesley Brick, John Brien, Tim Briggs, Gary Brogley, Michael
> Brooks, John Brooks, Kenyon Brooks, Sterling Broom, Richard Brown,
Allen
> Brown, Bob Brunke, Judy Bryan, Mark Buchanan, Guy Buchmann, Keith
Buckthal,
> Robert Buess, Alfred Bullett, Charles Bullock, Jack Bumhoffer, Al
Burden,
> Ron Burke, James Burkhardt, Michael Burnaby, John Burnett, Ron Burns,
Mark
> Burrill, Phil Burrows, Alan Burton, James Busch, Rob Butcher, James
Butcher,
> Ron Butler, Francis Butler, Sherman Butterfield, John Buyse, Lieven
> Caldwell, Rick Cannon, Michael Cannon, Paul Cann, Tony Cantrell, Jim
> Cantrell, Jimmy Capen, Ralph Capra, Sal Cardell, Bill Carillon Sr,
Paul
> Carpenter, Jeffrey Carpenter, Kenneth Carriere, James Carroll, Randy
Carter,
> David Carter, Howard Carter, PaulQ Carter, Preston Cary, William
Casson,
> Perry Challgren, Stanley Chambers, Ken Champion, Robert Chandler, Rick
> Chang, Ted Chatham, Robert Checkoway, Dan Chelvanayagam, Indran
Chenoweth,
> William Chevaillier, Mason Circle, Roger Clarke, Christopher Clarke,
Paddy
> Clark, James Clark, Michael Clay, Dennis Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
Cliff,
> John Clifford, Dewayne Clyma, Frank Coalwell, Timothy Cochran, Mark
Cochran,
> Stewart Coggins, Mickey Cole, Gary Cole, Gerry Cole, Roger Colucci,
Tony
> Combs, Doyle Combs, Jim Comfort, Gordon Compton, Scott Condrey, Bob
Connell,
> Joseph Conrad, Gerald Constant, Jeremy Cook, Doug Cook, Marc Cooling,
John
> Cooper, James Cooper, Marcus Corbalis, Leo Corder, Michael Corner, Jim
> Corriveau, Grant Cottingham, Richard Cottrell, Larry Coursey, William
> Courtney, James Coussons, Herb Cox, John Cravener, Donald Crawford,
Corey
> Creer, Michael Cribb, William Crockett, Jim Crosby, Harry Crosley,
Rich
> Cross, Brian Crothers, Bill Cruikshank, Bruce Culver, Ronald Curtis,
William
> Dalstrom, Douglas Dalton, Bob Daniell, William Danielsen,
HansJ%c3%b8rgen
> Daves, Russell Davidson, Jeff Davies, Brian Davis, Barry Davis, Deems
Davis,
> Robert Dawson, Clif Dawson, Garth Decker, Daniel Decramer, Dick
Deford,
> David De Jong, Jan Delaney, Tom Deloach, Reginald DelPeso, Jose
Delsol,
> Mich%c3%a8le Dennis, Chris Dewees, Ron Dewey, Debbie Dial, Larry
Dickson,
> Robert Dieh, Donald Dietrich, Klaus Disher, John Dominy, Kenneth
Donato,
> John Dondlinger, Leo Doran, Thomas Dorsey, Robert Doud, Herbert Dovey,
> Martin Doyle, Mike Draper, Mike Dresden, Robert Dufresne, Robert Duke,
> Gordon Dunne, John Durakovich, David East, David Eckenroth, Paul
Edgerton,
> Wayne Edwards, Ed Edwards, Joe Ehlers, Clyde D Eli, Robert
Ellenberger,
> Christopher Ellenberger, Mike Elliott, Andrew Ellis, Dale Elrod,
Michael
> Engel, Jerry Engh, Duncan England, Charles Erickson, Alan Erickson,
Gerald
> Erickson, Ken Ervin, Thomas Evenson, Roger Fackler, Ken Fair, Deal
Falik,
> Donald Farmer, Daniel Faulkner, Thomas F, Dwight Featherston, Les
Feldman,
> Herb Felker, Timothy Fetterman, Lanny Fillinger, Fred Filucci, Michael
> Finley, John Fischer, Douglas Fischer, John Fishe, James Fisher,
Richard
> Fitzpatrick, Robert Fix, Douglas Flamini, Dennis Flavin, John Fluent,
Grant
> Flynn, Harold Ford, Dean Ford, John Ford, Michael Forrest, Gerald
Forsberg,
> Erik Fosse, James M Fox, Byron Fox, Stephen Franz, Carl Fray, Jerry
Frazier,
> Ford French, Edwin French, James Fromm, John Fulgham, Bill Fullilove,
Ken
> Fulmer, Joseph Fussell, Larry Fux, Franz Gabbard, Gary Gallagher, Noel
> Gallenbach, Craig Gantzer, Charles G Gardner, Albert Gardner, Terrence
> Garland, Doug Garrou, Douglas Gates, Leo Geese, Ronald Geldermann,
Daniel
> Genzlinger, Reade George, Joe George, Neal German, Mark Giacona,
William
> Gibbons, Robert Giddens, Gerald Gillespie, Byron Gillespie, Rl
Gilliatt, Jim
> Glaeser, Dennis Gleason, Mike Goff, George Goguen, Jon Goguen, Nelson
> Golden, Dennis Goode, Richard Goodings, John Goodridge, Stuart
Goolsby,
> James Gordon, Keith Gottelt, Herbert Gott, Shelby Goudinoff, Peter
Gower,
> Gary Gowing, John Grabb, Gary Graham, Jim Graham Jr, W Doyce Graichen,
Peter
> Grajek, Al Grant, Jordan Grantz, Alan Green, Luther Greenough, Jim
Griffin,
> Bill Griffin, Jim Griffin, Robert Grigson, Greg Grimmonpre, Jerry
Groell,
> Pascal Groote, Curtis Grosse, John Gummo, Thomas Gustafson, Aaron
Gwin,
> Rique Hackler, Douglas Haertlein, Frank Hagar, Steve Hale, Ade Haley,
Gary
> Hall, Charles Hall, Joel Halvorsen, Lyf Hamer, Steve Hamilton, Red
Hamilton,
> William J Hand, Christopher Hankinson, Julian Hanley, BrettAlan
Hanley, Mark
> Hansen, ArnoldKristian Hansen, Graham Happ, Paul Harcourt, David
Haring,
> Robert Harmon, John Harrill, Roy Harrison, Nigel Harrod, Peter Hart,
Rob
> Hasbrouck, John Hatch, Fletcher Hatfield, Cecil Hatfield, William
Hauck,
> John Haverlah, Dennis Haynes, Joel Heaton, Herb Hedrick, Keith
Hefferan, Rex
> Hefner, Jim Hegenauer, Elmar Hegenauer, Manuela Heindl, Karl Hein, Jim
> Heller, Martin Helming, LarryRobert Henwick, Mark Heritch, Ian
Herminghaus,
> John Herron, Al Hershberger, Edward Herzner, Fred Hetrick, Dale
Heykoop,
> John Hibbing, William Higgins, Floran Hill, Jeff Hill, Ken Hill,
Kenneth
> Hill, StanleyA Hinde, Frank Hodges, Mitchell Hoffman, Allan Hoffman,
Carl
> Holifield, Steve Holland, James Holland, Rick Holliday, Robert
Holyoke, Ed
> Honer, Michael Hooper, Randy Horne, Gilbert Horton, Kevin Howell,
Kenneth
> Howey, Ralph Huft, John Hughes, Robert Hukill, Chris Hunter, Robert
Hunt,
> Malcolm Hunton, Jim Hunt, Wallace Hurd, James Hurn, JohnAllen Hurst,
> Kingsley Hutchins, Mike Hyde, Ken Isler, Jerry Jacko, Victor W Jaussi,
> Curtis Jensen, Charles Jensen, Marinus Jernigan, Carroll Jessen, John
> Johannsson, Johann G Johansson, Max John, Kent Johnsen, Svein Johnson,
David
> Johnson, DennisL Johnson, Forrest Johnson, Ken Johnson, Russell
Johnson,
> William Johnston, Christopher Johnston, Dudley Johnston, Stephen
Jones,
> David Jones, Don W Jones, Eric M Jones, Kenneth Joosten, Craig Jordan,
JR
> Joyce, David Jula, TheodoreF Julian, Raymond Jung, John Jurotich,
Matthew
> Kaluza, Charles Katra, James Kaufmann, Robert Kayner, Dennis Kearney,
John
> Keener, Forest Kelly, Michael Kemp, Roger Kenney, Thomas Kerr, Dennis
> Kesterton, Donald Kilburg, Larry Killion, Clay Kimsey, Thomas King,
John
> Kinkade, Les Kinne, Russ Kinney, Kevin Kirk, Floyd Kister, Dale Klein,
Larry
> Klingmuller, Lothar Knievel, Gerald Knoll, Barrett Knotts, F Barry
Knott,
> Vernon Kohles, Jerry Koonce, RL Kramer, Ed Krueger, Grant Kruleski,
Chet
> Kulp, David Kummer, Gerald Kuntz, Paul Kuss, Charles Kyle, Fergus
Kyle,
> Larry Lackwitz, Raymond Ladd, Pat Laird, Dave Lammers, Dave Lannon,
Walter
> Lansden, John Larsen, Gene Larson, Joseph Larzilliere, Alain Lathrop,
Jim
> Laundy, Mike Laurie, Kip Ledbetter, Gene Lederman, Howard Ledoux, Paul
Lee,
> Terrence Lee, Thomas Leggette, Edward Lehman, Ken Leinberger, Gary
Lekven,
> Carl Lendon, Ron Lenton, Dennis Lerohl, Gaylen Levy, Pierre Lewis,
Scott
> Lewis, Terry Lewis, Tim Ligon, Howard Lilja, Ken Lind, David Lindsay,
Robert
> Linebaugh, Jeff Lineberry, Gary Linse, Mike Lively, Chad Lloyd, Brian
Lloyd,
> Daniel Loer, Stanley Logan, Michael Long, Charles Long, Eugene Long,
Patrick
> Longwell, Anna Loring, Arthur Loring Jr, Arthur P Loubert, Gary
Lovley,
> Forrest Lucas, David Lundin, Richard Lynch, Charles Lyscars, Alan
Macdonald,
> Larry Macinnes, Bruce Mackay, Alex Macon, Mike Mahurin, Jerry Mains,
Ralph
> Malczynski, Francis Markle, Jim Marlow, Sam Marshall, Aaron Marshall,
FR
> Martin, Jay Martin, Mickey Mason, John Mason, Marty Massari, Stephen
Massey,
> Allen Masys, Daniel Matejcek, Glen Matlack, Dean Matteson, Lynn May,
George
> May, James Mcallister, Paul Mcbean, John Mcbride, Duncan Mccallister,
Don
> Mccallum, Robert Mcchesney, James Mcconnell, Roger Mcdaniel, Steve
Mcdonald,
> Stephen Mcfarland, Larry Mcfarlane, Lloyd Mckeon, Vincent Mckervey,
Joseph
> Mckinnon, Greg Mcmahon, John Mcnutt, George Medeiros, Joel Melenyzer
Iv, Cl
> Mell, Roger Merchant, Dean Merrill, Dj Messinger, Paul Meyers, Jess
Meyers,
> John Meylor, Dean Milgrom, Mark Miller, David Miller, John Miller,
Michael
> Miller, Terrence Mills, Jack Mitchell, Paul Montagne, Ray Montague,
Neita
> Montoure, Kenneth Moore, Dave Moore, David Moore, Goff Moore, Paul
Moore,
> Tom Moore, Warren Moran, Felix Morawski, Brett Morehead, Jim Morley,
Hal
> MorrisN75up, Dave Morris, Steven Morrow, Dan Mortimore, Terry Moser,
Scott
> Mountain, Patrick Mrotzek, Dan Mulcahy, Bob Muldoon Jr, Francis
Muller,
> Albert Muller, Mick Mulwitz, Paul Munn, Mike Munro, Robert Murphy,
Walt
> Myers, George Myers, Gerald Myers, John Nadeau, Michael Naumuk,
William
> Navratil, Mark Navratil, Richard Naylor, Doug Needham, James Neilsen,
> Richard Neitzel, Richard Nelson, James Nelson, Larry Newkirk, Bill
Newsum,
> James Nicely, Vince Nichols, Clem Niles, Bruce Nimigon, David Noyer,
Robert
> Nuckolls Iii, Robert L Nutt, James Obrien, John Ochs, James Ockuly,
Bernie
> Oconnor, Edward O'Day, Jim Offill, Danny O'Hara, Tom Ohnigian, Steve
Okeefe,
> Lawrence Oke, Jim Oldford, David Oliver, Bradley Olsen, Paul Olson,
Bob
> Olson, Brad Olson, Gary Olson, Tim Orear, Jeff Orsborn, Thomas
Overgaard,
> Allan Owens, Donald Packard, Tom Palamarek, Ted Pansier, Don Partyka,
LeeM
> Paulich, John Payne, Craig Pearsall, Don Peck, Kenneth Peerenboom,
Paul
> Pelletier, David Pellien, James Peoples, James Perez, M Domenic
Perkinson,
> Robert Perry, Ilan Perry, Richard Persels, Lyle Peterson, Alex
Peterson,
> David A Petri, David Petty, Paul Pfeifer, Michael Pfundt, Jan
Phillips, Mark
> Phillips, Terrence Pierce, Roger Pierce, Tony Pierson Jr, Edward
Pierzina,
> Michael Pike, Richard Pilling, Kevin Plecenik, Michael Pocock, Graham
Point,
> Jeff Polits, Richard Ponzio, John Porter, Richard Portouw, Lawrence
Powell,
> Ken Prater, Michael Preston, Doug Prevost, Guy Princell, Bill
Pritchard,
> Jeff Pritchard, Roger Puglise, James Puls, Jeffrey Quinn, Rollie
Quist,
> David Rabbers, Richard Raby, Ron Radford, Joe Rammos, Ricardo
Randolph,
> George Ransom, Brad Rataj, Mark Ray, Carl Reel, David Reese, Craig
Reese,
> Wayne Reeves, Dan Reid, Greg Reining, Bill Reining, Jonathan Reusser,
> Hans-peter Reynolds, Richard Ribb, Dan Rice, Paul Richardson, Colin
> Richardson, Paul Richards, Stephen Rickard, Ian Rickman, Loy Ricks,
Allen
> Rigby, David Riggs, Lynn Rigney, Bruce Risch, Robert Ritter, Mark T
Roberts,
> Gary Roberts, John Robertson, Bob Roberts, Rick Robinette, William
Robson,
> Peter Rodebush, James Rodgers, Paul Rodriguez, Paul Rodriguez, Pedro
Roehr,
> Michael Ronnau, James Ross, Christopher Ross, Jonathan Rousselle,
Kenneth
> Rowbotham, Chuck Rowe, Denny Rowe, Jay Rueb, Duane Ruksnaitis,
WilliamF
> Russell, Larry Ryan, Michael Sa, Carlos Sagerser, James Sager, Truman
> Saligman, Ira Sallas, C William Salter, Phillip Sanders, Andrew
Sanford,
> Fred Sapp, Douglas Sargeant, Jack Sargent, Thomas Savarese, Anthony
Dennis
> Sax, Sam Saylor, David Schemmel, Grant Schertz, William Schieber,
Cedric
> Schieffer, Charles Schilf, Richard Schlafly, Fred Schlatterer, Bill
> Schlosser, Kevin Schmidt, John Schmitendorf, Bill Schneider, Benjamin
> Schneider, Werner Schoenberger, Robert Schott, Jared Schrader, Kurt
Schreck,
> Ron Schrimmer, Mark Schroeder, Earl Schroeder, John Schulke, Thomas
> Scott,Jr, Fred W Scott, Mark Scroggs, Ross Seagrave, Scott Seal, John
> Selby,Jr, Jim Setser, David Seve, Eddie Shablow, John Shafer, James
Shanks,
> Jim Shank, William Shannon, Kevin Sharp, Michael Sharp, Ralph Shaw,
Cliff
> Shaw, Rex Shepherd, Dallas Shepherd, Stanislaus Sheridan, Roger
Sherry,
> James Shiple, Fred Shipley, RobWM Shipley, Walt Shumaker, Jim
Siegfried,
> Oldbob Simmons, Kendall Simpson, Skip Simutis, Frank J Sinclair,
Michael
> Sinke, Jim Sipp, Richard Sisson, Phil Skelly, Brian Skyring, Kerry
Slatt,
> Gary Small, Thomas Smart, Steven Smith, Bret Smith, DannyL Smith, Gene
> Smith, Jeff Smith, Kirk Smith, Roland Smith, Ronal Smith, Zed
Snedaker, Bob
> Snyder, Bruce Soikkeli, Robert Solecki, John Sparks, Timothy Spaur,
Chuck
> Specht, Stan Spencer, Scott Springer, Gerald Spudis, Robert Staal,
Stephen
> Staley, Dick Starnes, Robert Starn, JH "kabong"
> Stefan, Leon
> Steitle, Mark
> Stelwagon, Frank
> Stephanak, Bob
> Stevenson, Will
> Stewart, Michael
> Stinemetze, Thomas
> St-laurent, Ray
> Stone, Christopher
> Stone, Jim
> Strange, Ted
> Stribling, James
> Strong, Gary
> Sutterfield, Stan
> Swaney, Mark
> Swankie, Ian
> Swartout, John
> Swinford, George
> Syverson, David
> Szantho, John B
> Tarmar, Brian
> Tasker, Richard
> Tatro, John
> Tatz, Norm
> Tauchen, Bryan
> Taupier, John
> Teegarden, Vaughn
> Testement, John
> Tew, Stanley
> Textor, Jack
> Tezyk, Robert
> Thatcher, Scott
> Therrien, Michel
> Tholen, Tom
> Thomas, Bruce
> Thomas, Glenn
> Thomas, James
> Thomas, Lee
> Thomason, Mannan
> Thomason, Michael
> Thomas, Stephen
> Thorp, Kevin
> Thwing, Randy
> Tichy, Robert
> Tilford, Stephen
> Tillmann, Johan
> Timm, Peter
> Timoney, James
> Tinker, R Rupert
> Tomlin, Thomas
> Tomm, Bevan
> Tompkins, Jeff
> Toro, Jose
> Tower, John
> Trombley, Erich
> Trost, Sebastian
> Trotter, Paul
> Tuck, John
> Tupper, Kirby
> Turrell, Mike
> Turrentine, Donna
> Tuton, Bill
> Tyler, George
> Unruh, Brian
> Unternaehrer, Rolf
> Upshaw, Roman
> Usrey, Reed
> Utsey, Randy
> Utterback, ThomasE
> Vader, Tim
> Valovich, Paul
> Vandenberg, Daniel
> Van Der Voort, Hans
> VanDerZouw, Henkjan
> Van Eldik, Anthony
> Vangrunsven, Stan
> VanHeeswijk, J
> Van Lanen, David
> Van Winkle, Alden
> Varnes, William
> Vaughan, Cye
> Vaughan, Lee
> Venables, JohnRoger
> Verdev, Victor
> Versteeg, Maarten
> Vervoort, Jef
> Vetterli, Richard
> Vinal, Adelbert
> Vinroot, Robert
> Vogt, Gary
> Von Bevern, Brian
> Von Doymi, Carl
> VonRuden, Dennis
> Voss, Richard
> Vranken, Karel
> Wade, Jim
> Wagner Jr, James E
> Wagoner, Richard
> Waligroski, Gregg
> Walker, Robbie
> Walker, Tommy
> Walker, Valerie
> Walker, Weston
> Walmsley, Brett
> Walrath, Howard
> Walsh, Denis
> Wambolt, Charles
> Ward, Ann
> Washburn, Oliver
> Watson, Terrence
> Weaver, Fred
> Webb, Randol
> Wehner, Clem
> Weiler, Douglas C
> Weinstock, Steven
> Weisfeld, Hans-peter
> Weiss, Richard
> Welsch, Philip
> Welsh, Don
> Werner, Russell
> Wetzel, Bob
> Whelan, Thomas
> White, Bob
> White, Charles
> Whiteley, Kenneth
> White, Phil
> Whittfield, Clive
> Whittington, Dewitt
> Wigney, John
> Wilde, Daniel
> Williamson, Richard
> Williamson, William
> Williams, Terry
> Willis, Tim
> Wilson, James
> Wilson, Kelly
> Winburn, Larry
> Winings, James
> Wither, Louis
> Woboril, David
> Wood, Larry
> Woods, Donald
> Wsiaki, Michael
> Wynn, Michael
> Yeamans, David
> York, Richard
> Young, Al
> Young, Dan
> Young, Dee
> Young, Greg
> Zakreski, Steve
> Zecherle, John
> Zelinski, Alan
> Zilz, Dave
> Zirges, Malcolm
> Zollinger, Duane
> Zuniga, Oscar
>
>
>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft do not
> archive
>
>
>
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>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Cable Guides |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Russ,
What was your source for the insulation on the floor of the tunnel?
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
Sorry, I hit the send button before attachment on the last e-mail.
Russ
>I have attached a picture of the duel rudder cable guides I installed
fore
>and aft of the fuel selector to insure that the rudder cable doesn't
rub on
>the fuel lines or connectors. Scott McDaniel supplied the extra
plastic
>guides, screws, and nuts free when I called Van's and raised the
issue.
>
> Russ Daves
> #40044 Fuselage on gear
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 10:05 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
>
>>
>> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter,
selector
>> valve
>> and lines and would appreciate any help.
>> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
>> selector
>> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4
nylon
>> guide
>> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines
to
>> the
>> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree
fittings
>> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
>> guides
>> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I
>> changed
>> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
>> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line
chafing)
>> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy?
I've
>> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some
other
>> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Bill Stegemann
>> RV6 - sold
>> RV10 wings/fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Cable Guides |
Thanks for the input. I'll follow your example. Nice job.
Bill Stegemann
40423 Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
I have attached a picture of the duel rudder cable guides I installed fore
and aft of the fuel selector to insure that the rudder cable doesn't rub on
the fuel lines or connectors. Scott McDaniel supplied the extra plastic
guides, screws, and nuts free when I called Van's and raised the issue.
Russ Daves
#40044 Fuselage on gear
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter, selector
> valve
> and lines and would appreciate any help.
> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
> selector
> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4 nylon
> guide
> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines to
> the
> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree fittings
> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
> guides
> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I changed
> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line chafing)
> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy? I've
> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some other
> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Bill Stegemann
> RV6 - sold
> RV10 wings/fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel selector bracket |
If I elect to use the Andair Fuel Selector Valve, do I still use the stock bracket
in the tunnel? Can anyone also recommend the model number and place to purchase
it? Duplex or single? Any special fittings?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel selector bracket |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sean,
Good timing on your question! Tim Olson and I are both revamping our
Andair valve installations. There are a number of clearance issues that
have to be dealt with and (for me at least) the 2" SCAT to the rear seat
heat was the thing that's causing me to redo the install.
Short answer to your question is that you do NOT install the stock valve
bracket. The version that Van's sells is the one that you want - model
#FS20-3. Duplex is not needed since the Bendix injection on Lycomings
does not use a fuel return line to the tanks.
Longer answer is that the Andair needs to be mounted flush with the top
surface of the tunnel. Both Tim and I have ordered extensions for the
Andair valve handle to be able to move the valve body lower in the
tunnel to provide better clearance for the SCAT and this will also
eliminate the very close clearance between the left tank valve input and
rudder cable. There is also a coupler that I've ordered that will allow
reorientation of the valve body relative to the handle so I will also
rotate the valve body about 45 degrees right which will REALLY help with
left sidewall clearance. I'm sure that we'll both be posting pix after
installation of the extensions. Tim is expecting delivery in a few days
and mine will be a few days behind his.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
seanblair(at)adelphia.net
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel selector bracket
If I elect to use the Andair Fuel Selector Valve, do I still use the
stock bracket in the tunnel? Can anyone also recommend the model number
and place to purchase it? Duplex or single? Any special fittings?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector bracket |
You can cut it off and remount it if you want the valve to
mount in the same hole. You can buy the valve from Van's.
Don't buy from Wicks...it's the wrong valve. There are
also other things to consider in the valve, like fitting
length, mounting location, and more. You don't need
the duplex valve. I have a write-up of what I have so
far on my website. It would work fine, but I'm not
100% happy with it (and I wouldn't be with the standard
valve install either).
I haven't had time to progress and tell people what
my plan is, but here's an overview.
Flex fuel lines (braided over conductive teflon) from the
valve to the tanks. (Weight is 12.5 lbs per 100 ft, so
a non-issue)
Mount the valve about 6" lower than it normally sits, to allow the
rear heat SCAT to have plenty of room passing by the valve.
It will not then pass by the fuel, and either chafe, or heat
the fuel. The fuel lines will also then be far away from
the rudder cables. The valve handle extension isn't
cheap, but I think it should work well for me. Bob C. might
be trying something similar as well.
If you have time, I'd hold off for a while on the fuel valve.
There might be something you can learn from my headaches
and I'm only a couple-few weeks away from having it all
reworked. You shouldn't have any real huge reason to get
the fuel valve installed until very late in the build.
Tim
seanblair(at)adelphia.net wrote:
>
> If I elect to use the Andair Fuel Selector Valve, do I still use the
> stock bracket in the tunnel? Can anyone also recommend the model
> number and place to purchase it? Duplex or single? Any special
> fittings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sean Blair #40225
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button grip)
on the outside of the control stick.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Grip Wiring |
I drilled a hole on the vertical shaft and into the half-moon part of
the stick. I then routed the wires through the hole and into the
stick and pushed them up the vertical portion of the stick. I have a
hole facing me as I fly in the vertical part of the stick that has no
purpose. This is the only way I could think of to conceal the
wires. Can send you a pic if you are further interested.
Rob.
On Dec 5, 2005, at 1:39 PM, Conti, Rick wrote:
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
> grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OP Integrated EFIS |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
Has anyone looked into OPTechnologies EFIS systems?
http://www.optechnologies.com I was checking out the OP Integrated
system, and it looks pretty cool. Pricey, sure, but it seems a pretty
complete system, and eliminates (sort of) the need for a radio stack.
All the avionics (comms, navs, xponder, etc) are remote modules that can
be mounted behind the panel or elsewhere, and controlled by the main
head unit. Either 8.4" or 10.4" displays, video input to a MFD, etc.
by the time you put a dual screen chelton, 480, xponder, etc, you're
about at the same price... has anyone seen this in person?
Cj
#40410
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
We ran our wire on the outside of the control stick, because we used an
Infinity Aerospace grip with all of those buttons. On the right side we
used a simple one-button ray allen and drilled a hole to allow us to fish
the wire down inside the control stick (and protected it with a couple heat
shrink layers where it passes through the hole).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button grip)
on the outside of the control stick.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OP Integrated EFIS |
I saw it at OSH. Yes it is slick. But you will be putting all your
eggs in one basket. When the system goes down you loose just about
everything.
Larry Rosen
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>Hey all -
>Has anyone looked into OPTechnologies EFIS systems?
>http://www.optechnologies.com I was checking out the OP Integrated
>system, and it looks pretty cool. Pricey, sure, but it seems a pretty
>complete system, and eliminates (sort of) the need for a radio stack.
>All the avionics (comms, navs, xponder, etc) are remote modules that can
>be mounted behind the panel or elsewhere, and controlled by the main
>head unit. Either 8.4" or 10.4" displays, video input to a MFD, etc.
>by the time you put a dual screen chelton, 480, xponder, etc, you're
>about at the same price... has anyone seen this in person?
>
>
>Cj
>#40410
>wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange |
I am about to rivet the Fwd Fuselage bottom skin to the firewall flange. I have
not seen the instructions mention anything about dimpling the firewall flange.
I am assuming it has to be dimpled as the skin is dimpled. Can someone who
has been through this step verify this?
Thanks
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
A picture would be great. Thanks
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: rob kermanj [mailto:rv10es(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
I drilled a hole on the vertical shaft and into the half-moon part of
the stick. I then routed the wires through the hole and into the
stick and pushed them up the vertical portion of the stick. I have a
hole facing me as I fly in the vertical part of the stick that has no
purpose. This is the only way I could think of to conceal the
wires. Can send you a pic if you are further interested.
Rob.
On Dec 5, 2005, at 1:39 PM, Conti, Rick wrote:
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
> grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 |
I did that very thing this past weekend. Looked through a lot of photos
from various builders linked off of Tim Olson's site. I trimmed the
corners of the angles. Looks like the QB fuselage comes that way, and
like slow builders are doing the same thing. Can't find anyplace in the
plans that speaks to it though.
PJ
40032
Rene wrote:
> Searched archives but could not find anything. For those who have gotten
> further along in your fuselage build. How did you rivet the forward most
> rivets in the F-1040 and F-1041. The angles on the bulkhead get in the way
> of placing and driving the rivets. I have sent an e-mail to vans asking if
> it is appropriate to remove some of the material from the angles.
>
> I have attached a picture.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Yes it gets dimpled. In fact, the entire perimeter of the firewall
flange gets dimpled. Pay attention to the few rivets that aren't set -
they actually attach the hinge sections that the cowling attaches to.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange
I am about to rivet the Fwd Fuselage bottom skin to the firewall flange.
I have not seen the instructions mention anything about dimpling the
firewall flange. I am assuming it has to be dimpled as the skin is
dimpled. Can someone who has been through this step verify this?
Thanks
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OP Integrated EFIS |
I looked at them several years ago. I really loved the features etc. but
found it too expensive, especially when you add the 'second' screen, which
in their system at the time was a completely separate unit for redundancy.
I think their system is very nice, just pricy.
Regards,
David Schaefer
N142DS
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OP Integrated EFIS
Hey all -
Has anyone looked into OPTechnologies EFIS systems?
http://www.optechnologies.com I was checking out the OP Integrated
system, and it looks pretty cool. Pricey, sure, but it seems a pretty
complete system, and eliminates (sort of) the need for a radio stack.
All the avionics (comms, navs, xponder, etc) are remote modules that can
be mounted behind the panel or elsewhere, and controlled by the main
head unit. Either 8.4" or 10.4" displays, video input to a MFD, etc.
by the time you put a dual screen chelton, 480, xponder, etc, you're
about at the same price... has anyone seen this in person?
Cj
#40410
wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe power supply location |
Some questions:
Where have people mounted their strobe power supply?
what type of electrical connectors have you installed
at the wing root, or are you passing the full wire
length to the panel?
I am working on wing wiring.
Right wing: AOA sport, Duckworks 100 W, Strobe,
position lights, NAV coax
Left wing: Trio Avionics trim servo, Pitot Heat
(Gretz), Duckworks HID, strobe, position lights
Fuselage: Remote mag, strobe, position, VOR/GS, static
lines
I was going to go with Dynon but continued lack of
heated pitot, and reliance on airspeed for proper
attitude display turned me off. Unless my stock
portfolio takes a dramatic turn for the better I'm
going to use a dual display GRT system tied to a 430.
If it takes a turn for the worst, I'll proseal down a
glass of whisky and refresh on NORDO... Chelton is
very nice but expensive - it's also currently grounded
for IFR (problems with crossbow giving bad attitude
data). http://www.direct2avionics.com/news.html
I am planning on the Trio avionics AP, electric TC,
airspeed, alt for backup.
Eric Panning
40150 wing wiring, + staring at stack of fuselage
parts and manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector bracket |
Tim:
I had pretty much arrived at the same idea you and Bob are working with. I
already had the Andair valve.
My thought was to run flex line from the valve to a 90 or 45 degree bulkhead
fitting where the line goes through the tunnel sidewalls and the solid line
everywhere else. It would seem that lowering the valve would also improve
the head pressure of the fuel at the fuel pump.
There are also a variety of "swivel type" flexible line fittings up to 180
degrees available from Earls. This is the same AN stuff used in aircraft
but sold for the automotive performance aftermarket.
Dick Sipp
40065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone Attach - Side Skin Transition |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone Attach - Side Skin Transition
>
> I have the tail cone attached to the fuselage. Where the Mid Side Skin
> (F-1070) meets with the Tailcone Side Skin (F-1073) they lap over each
> other forming a hard step like transition. Is it acceptable to feather
> (file) back the Mid Side Skin edge to make a smoother transition?
>
> Larry Rosen
> N205EN (reserved)
Another possibility is sealing and fairing the skin laps as part of the
painting process. This is a common practice on large aircraft. A proseal
like sealer is used and hand applied in a very small filet before the color
coats are applied.
This was done when my RV4 was painted 10 years ago. It still looks great
and none of these seals have cracked.
The products used are designed for the purpose, sorry I don't have a
specific reference, but a good paint shop will know.
Dick Sipp
RV10 40065 N110DV
RV4 N250DS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel selector bracket |
Hi,builders,Hugo here I see is a lot of conversation about fuel system,yesterday
I was in my neighbord house (by chance he have a flying RV10),15 minutes drive
,He say to me ,it is very hot in the tunnel,and give him some problems with
vapor lock,I do not have a chance to see what kind of hardware it is inside.but
he say is a common problem in the flyings RV10's,He is a very nice person and
I don't want bother to much with questions (yet).
by for now.
Jus finish (2 days) clean and deburr all parts(elevators)sentence.
wich is the allways the longest and exausting task in the plans.
hugo
>
> From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
> Date: 2005/12/05 Mon PM 08:46:01 EST
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel selector bracket
>
>
> Tim:
>
> I had pretty much arrived at the same idea you and Bob are working with. I
> already had the Andair valve.
> My thought was to run flex line from the valve to a 90 or 45 degree bulkhead
> fitting where the line goes through the tunnel sidewalls and the solid line
> everywhere else. It would seem that lowering the valve would also improve
> the head pressure of the fuel at the fuel pump.
>
> There are also a variety of "swivel type" flexible line fittings up to 180
> degrees available from Earls. This is the same AN stuff used in aircraft
> but sold for the automotive performance aftermarket.
>
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 |
I got this from Vans.
Since they are only .063" material, you should be able to nip some
off with snips. that will give you some room to rivet.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PJ Seipel
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041
I did that very thing this past weekend. Looked through a lot of photos
from various builders linked off of Tim Olson's site. I trimmed the
corners of the angles. Looks like the QB fuselage comes that way, and
like slow builders are doing the same thing. Can't find anyplace in the
plans that speaks to it though.
PJ
40032
Rene wrote:
> Searched archives but could not find anything. For those who have gotten
> further along in your fuselage build. How did you rivet the forward most
> rivets in the F-1040 and F-1041. The angles on the bulkhead get in the
way
> of placing and driving the rivets. I have sent an e-mail to vans asking
if
> it is appropriate to remove some of the material from the angles.
>
> I have attached a picture.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Grip Wiring |
Rick:
I bought the CH Control Stick grip (picture attached) and then drilled out a
1/4" hole at the bottom of the straight part of the control stick where it
goes around the curve and then drilled a 1/4" hole in the front part of the
stick about half way down. I then had the control stick powder coated black
and install the CH grip ;and threaded the wires down and around the curved
part of the control stick and exited down low (picture attached). I put a
small snap bushing in the hole coming out of the control stick where the
wires exited. After I get the wires spliced in I will put a shrink wrap on
them and bring them back down the control stick to the base and then up and
around to the panel and trim connections.
Russ Daves
#40044
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "brian bollaert" <bbollaert(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Grip Wiring |
Russ i bought the same control sticks , however i cut my sticks down around
1 inch from the bend , thought it would be more comfy.
Brian B
40200
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
> Rick:
>
> I bought the CH Control Stick grip (picture attached) and then drilled out
a
> 1/4" hole at the bottom of the straight part of the control stick where it
> goes around the curve and then drilled a 1/4" hole in the front part of
the
> stick about half way down. I then had the control stick powder coated
black
> and install the CH grip ;and threaded the wires down and around the curved
> part of the control stick and exited down low (picture attached). I put a
> small snap bushing in the hole coming out of the control stick where the
> wires exited. After I get the wires spliced in I will put a shrink wrap
on
> them and bring them back down the control stick to the base and then up
and
> around to the panel and trim connections.
>
> Russ Daves
> #40044
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
> To: "RV 10"
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 12:39 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
>
>
> >
> > For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> > run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button grip)
> > on the outside of the control stick.
> >
> > Thank You
> > Rick Conti
> > Senior Engineering Manager
> > The Boeing Company
> > office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> > blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange |
Niko,
One hole at the exact center does not get dimpled or riveted. This is where you
will use a screw/nut to hold the bottom cowl support bracket later.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange
I am about to rivet the Fwd Fuselage bottom skin to the firewall flange. I have
not seen the instructions mention anything about dimpling the firewall flange.
I am assuming it has to be dimpled as the skin is dimpled. Can someone
who has been through this step verify this?
Thanks
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | OP Integrated EFIS |
Ok, they show a GPS/WAAS. Is it WAAS "ready," or WAAS "approved?" You'll
probably have an expensive non-LPV GPS in your setup unless Op gets it
approved.
Rob
> Hey all -
> Has anyone looked into OPTechnologies EFIS systems?
> http://www.optechnologies.com I was checking out the OP Integrated
> system, and it looks pretty cool. Pricey, sure, but it seems a pretty
> complete system, and eliminates (sort of) the need for a radio stack.
> All the avionics (comms, navs, xponder, etc) are remote modules that can
> be mounted behind the panel or elsewhere, and controlled by the main
> head unit. Either 8.4" or 10.4" displays, video input to a MFD, etc.
> by the time you put a dual screen chelton, 480, xponder, etc, you're
> about at the same price... has anyone seen this in person?
>
>
> Cj
> #40410
> wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable results
with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and still
get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred tonight is
use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the hole first.
Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having to do most
of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this (and more than
once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After running
the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with no
burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs over (into
the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no visible burrs
left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the other
side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody else doing
this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or am I just being
too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing |
Bob:
The insulation on the floor of the tunnel is 3/8" thermal blanket foil from
the Super Soundproofing Company,
http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/prices.html
that costs $3.75 per running foot, 48" wide. It is ideal for the center
console because it is thin. I used 1/2" soundproofing mat for the floor and
side walls but the 1/2" mat would be too thick to go under the elevator
control arms in the center channel.
Russ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
>
> Russ,
>
> What was your source for the insulation on the floor of the tunnel?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>
> Sorry, I hit the send button before attachment on the last e-mail.
>
> Russ
>
>>I have attached a picture of the duel rudder cable guides I installed
> fore
>>and aft of the fuel selector to insure that the rudder cable doesn't
> rub on
>>the fuel lines or connectors. Scott McDaniel supplied the extra
> plastic
>>guides, screws, and nuts free when I called Van's and raised the
> issue.
>>
>> Russ Daves
>> #40044 Fuselage on gear
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bill" <n2faith2(at)cs.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 10:05 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Cable Guides
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I ran into a challenge when installing the fuel pump, filter,
> selector
>>> valve
>>> and lines and would appreciate any help.
>>> The QB forward fuselage has 2 eyelets located adjacent to the fuel
>>> selector
>>> valve (one on each side). These are apparently in lieu of the 4
> nylon
>>> guide
>>> strips shown on page 38-10 figure 4. After attaching the fuel lines
> to
>>> the
>>> selector valve it became apparent I couldn't use the 45 degree
> fittings
>>> called for. The fuel lines ended up directly aft of the rudder cable
>
>>> guides
>>> (eyelets) and there would have been an obvious chafing problem. I
>>> changed
>>> the fittings to 90 degree and the chafing problem still exists but is
>>> minimal. (I'm not sure "minimal" is appropriate with fuel line
> chafing)
>>> Has anyone else experienced this and, if so, what was your remedy?
> I've
>>> thought about drilling out and removing the eyelets and making some
> other
>>> cable guides and/or rerouting the fuel lines.
>>> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Bill Stegemann
>>> RV6 - sold
>>> RV10 wings/fuselage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Strobe power supply location |
Eric:
I am using the Aero Flash Strobe System. Three separate power supplies,
number 152-0007, one mounted at each wingtip and one mounted behind the
baggage compartment for the tail strobe. I bought the combo white light
tail strobe from Van's, and am using LED red and green nav lights with low
profile strobes
http://www.creativair.com/cva/product_info.php?products_id=69&osCsid=75488e6a7880f47e3c0a7cc743b3c0a3
Russ Daves
#40044 Fuselage on gear
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Panning" <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Strobe power supply location
>
> Some questions:
> Where have people mounted their strobe power supply?
> what type of electrical connectors have you installed
> at the wing root, or are you passing the full wire
> length to the panel?
>
> I am working on wing wiring.
> Right wing: AOA sport, Duckworks 100 W, Strobe,
> position lights, NAV coax
> Left wing: Trio Avionics trim servo, Pitot Heat
> (Gretz), Duckworks HID, strobe, position lights
> Fuselage: Remote mag, strobe, position, VOR/GS, static
> lines
>
> I was going to go with Dynon but continued lack of
> heated pitot, and reliance on airspeed for proper
> attitude display turned me off. Unless my stock
> portfolio takes a dramatic turn for the better I'm
> going to use a dual display GRT system tied to a 430.
> If it takes a turn for the worst, I'll proseal down a
> glass of whisky and refresh on NORDO... Chelton is
> very nice but expensive - it's also currently grounded
> for IFR (problems with crossbow giving bad attitude
> data). http://www.direct2avionics.com/news.html
>
> I am planning on the Trio avionics AP, electric TC,
> airspeed, alt for backup.
>
> Eric Panning
> 40150 wing wiring, + staring at stack of fuselage
> parts and manual.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control Grip Wiring |
I will include a pic today.
Rob.
On Dec 5, 2005, at 4:09 PM, Conti, Rick wrote:
>
> A picture would be great. Thanks
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> office: 703-414-6141
> cell: 571-215-6134
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rob kermanj [mailto:rv10es(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 2:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
>
>
> I drilled a hole on the vertical shaft and into the half-moon part of
> the stick. I then routed the wires through the hole and into the
> stick and pushed them up the vertical portion of the stick. I have a
> hole facing me as I fly in the vertical part of the stick that has no
> purpose. This is the only way I could think of to conceal the
> wires. Can send you a pic if you are further interested.
>
> Rob.
>
> On Dec 5, 2005, at 1:39 PM, Conti, Rick wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did
>> you
>> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
>> grip)
>> on the outside of the control stick.
>>
>> Thank You
>> Rick Conti
>> Senior Engineering Manager
>> The Boeing Company
>> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
>> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important part
of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin with
a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the Alclad surface
in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning deburring tool from Avery
works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool but
abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove
the burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and still
get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred tonight
is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the hole first.
Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having to do most
of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this (and more than
once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After running
the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs over (into
the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no visible burrs
left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the other
side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody else doing
this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or am I just
being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
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* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does remove the alclad (or atleast part of it, but
I am priming them anyway so they will be scuffed up anyway. I have other deburring
tools, just thought I would try the cogsdills that everybody was talking
about. I may have a like new pair of them for sale before long, though!!!
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 7:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important part
of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin with
a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the Alclad surface
in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning deburring tool from
Avery works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool
but abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove
the burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and still
get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred tonight
is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the hole first.
Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having to do most
of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this (and more
than once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After
running the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs over
(into the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no visible burrs
left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the other
side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody else doing
this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or am I just
being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
It was a pain in the buttocks getting the 40 set but now I like it a lot.
The 30 you would have to pry from my cold dead fingers. I use them all the
time and it is a huge time saver.
Bob K
Fuselage side skins, right side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
Bill,
Bruce gives good advice. I love the Cogsdill. However, it did take me
almost the entire Rudder to get it to work correctly. There are two, maybe
three obvious variables. 1. rotational speed 2. speed at which you move
the tool into and out of the hole 3. spring tension on the blade. I found
that if I lowered my PSI on my air drill to around 25 pounds, it seems to be
the right speed for the speed at which I move the blade into and out of the
hole. The number of rotations apparently is just about right. I think it
matches my manual deburring the closest. (Manual deburring, with one of
Avery's or other's tool, probably is the best, and I would recommend it over
using scotch brite. However, be careful there as well. You can use that
same tool to machine countersink and it can happen fast! One or one and a
half rotations only.) The blade tensioning is again related to the first
two variables. However, try to set it on the light side of medium tension
and it won't hurt the material that much.
Another way of approaching this is to use a reamer instead of the drill bit.
When I switched over to reamers, deburring was far easier and faster. Maybe
Bruce can, as an A&P student, comment on the differences, but it's clear
that the reamer cleans up the hole much nicer than the aggressively cutting
drill. Even if you pre-assemble the parts with clecos, reaming the holes to
size is great. Some are not even pre-assembling.
Finally, I've suggested to Bob Avery that he reconsider the Cogsdill. It's
a great tool and I've had very little problems with breakage. Also,
deburring is often over done, and that's per Van's. So proper use of the
Cogsdill should get you an acceptable result.
John Jessen
~328 (buildus interruptus continues)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important
part of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin
with a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the
Alclad surface in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning
deburring tool from Avery works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to
sell the Cogsdill tool but abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper
deburring should just remove the burr and leave a minute almost hard to
perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami <mailto:william(at)gbta.net> Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and
still get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred
tonight is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the
hole first. Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was
having to do most of the holes before this twice to get results even close
to this (and more than once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My
question is this: After running the scotchbrite wheel over the hole
smoothing out the burrs is it necessary to go ahead and use the cogsdill
deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with no burrs but I'm not sure if the
wheel will just lay some of the burrs over (into the hole) or if it actually
removes what it hit There are no visible burrs left after the wheel. so if
any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the
other side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody
else doing this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or
am I just being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integraonline.com> |
| Subject: | Cogsdill burraway questions |
Bill,
I bought the Cogsdill and had the same results. I went back to the
Cleveland deburing tool set in an electric screwdriver. Works great.
Rob
H/S 40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does remove the alclad (or atleast part
of it, but I am priming them anyway so they will be scuffed up anyway.
I have other deburring tools, just thought I would try the cogsdills
that everybody was talking about. I may have a like new pair of them
for sale before long, though!!!
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Case <mailto:pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an
important part of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are
hitting the skin with a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and
probably removing the Alclad surface in that area. I found that the
simple hand spinning deburring tool from Avery works fine and is
reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool but abandoned
because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove the
burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami <mailto:william(at)gbta.net> Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than
acceptable results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring
tension) and still get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin
that I deburred tonight is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a
die-grinder and smooth the hole first. Much better results with almost
no burrs left, where I was having to do most of the holes before this
twice to get results even close to this (and more than once enlarging
the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After running the
scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs
over (into the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no
visible burrs left after the wheel. so if any they would be
microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the
other side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on.
Anybody else doing this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill
deburrers, or am I just being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Strobe power supply location |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I will be mounting my power supply in the right side wall next to the
rear passenger's right leg. It fits nicely behind the cover. The
wiring from the left wing will run beneath the flap actuator assembly
covers. I also do not plan on cutting the wirings from the left wing.
This will ensure a continuous shield all the way to the power supply.
If in the future I have to remove the left wing, I will install a
connector at that time.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Panning [mailto:ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: RV10-List: Strobe power supply location
Some questions:
Where have people mounted their strobe power supply?
what type of electrical connectors have you installed
at the wing root, or are you passing the full wire
length to the panel?
I am working on wing wiring.
Right wing: AOA sport, Duckworks 100 W, Strobe,
position lights, NAV coax
Left wing: Trio Avionics trim servo, Pitot Heat
(Gretz), Duckworks HID, strobe, position lights
Fuselage: Remote mag, strobe, position, VOR/GS, static
lines
I was going to go with Dynon but continued lack of
heated pitot, and reliance on airspeed for proper
attitude display turned me off. Unless my stock
portfolio takes a dramatic turn for the better I'm
going to use a dual display GRT system tied to a 430.
If it takes a turn for the worst, I'll proseal down a
glass of whisky and refresh on NORDO... Chelton is
very nice but expensive - it's also currently grounded
for IFR (problems with crossbow giving bad attitude
data). http://www.direct2avionics.com/news.html
I am planning on the Trio avionics AP, electric TC,
airspeed, alt for backup.
Eric Panning
40150 wing wiring, + staring at stack of fuselage
parts and manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I have the same grip. I did cut the control stick to about 2" above the
curve. I think my wire run will be the same as yours. Thanks.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Daves [mailto:dav1111(at)cox.net]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
Rick:
I bought the CH Control Stick grip (picture attached) and then drilled
out a
1/4" hole at the bottom of the straight part of the control stick where
it
goes around the curve and then drilled a 1/4" hole in the front part of
the
stick about half way down. I then had the control stick powder coated
black
and install the CH grip ;and threaded the wires down and around the
curved
part of the control stick and exited down low (picture attached). I put
a
small snap bushing in the hole coming out of the control stick where the
wires exited. After I get the wires spliced in I will put a shrink wrap
on
them and bring them back down the control stick to the base and then up
and
around to the panel and trim connections.
Russ Daves
#40044
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Control Grip Wiring |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
How long is the included cables? Is it long enough to come out the
bottom of the stick or did you have to add? How much? I am talking with
them and would like to get the cable extended if I need to.
Dan
40269
Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
Rick:
I bought the CH Control Stick grip (picture attached) and then drilled
out a
1/4" hole at the bottom of the straight part of the control stick where
it
goes around the curve and then drilled a 1/4" hole in the front part of
the
stick about half way down. I then had the control stick powder coated
black
and install the CH grip ;and threaded the wires down and around the
curved
part of the control stick and exited down low (picture attached). I put
a
small snap bushing in the hole coming out of the control stick where the
wires exited. After I get the wires spliced in I will put a shrink wrap
on
them and bring them back down the control stick to the base and then up
and
around to the panel and trim connections.
Russ Daves
#40044
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Control Grip Wiring
>
> For those who have installed their control grips. How (where) did you
> run the wiring? Looks like I may have to run the wires (5 button
grip)
> on the outside of the control stick.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark & Kelly" <eyedocs1(at)swbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OP Integrated EFIS |
CJ,
I've looked into these as well and saw them at OSH. They really are quite
impressive and the display update rate with roll & pitch is extremely fast
considering the complexity of the terrain/runway presentations on the PFD.
I too have reservations about using the "integrated" version because of
radio control issuses if you lose the screens. Also, I don't beleive their
transponder has the capability of TIS such as the Garmin.
I will either go with a dual OP system without the integrated radios or the
Cheltons. Still trying to decide, but I don't think you can go wrong with
either option! Does anyone know how stable OP Technologies is as a company?
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OP Integrated EFIS
>
> Hey all -
> Has anyone looked into OPTechnologies EFIS systems?
> http://www.optechnologies.com I was checking out the OP Integrated
> system, and it looks pretty cool. Pricey, sure, but it seems a pretty
> complete system, and eliminates (sort of) the need for a radio stack.
> All the avionics (comms, navs, xponder, etc) are remote modules that can
> be mounted behind the panel or elsewhere, and controlled by the main
> head unit. Either 8.4" or 10.4" displays, video input to a MFD, etc.
> by the time you put a dual screen chelton, 480, xponder, etc, you're
> about at the same price... has anyone seen this in person?
>
>
> Cj
> #40410
> wings
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
I've had trouble adjusting my #40 Cogsdill. On the forward pass, it
removes almost no material, and on the backward pass it darn near
countersinks the hole. My #30 works beautifully. At first I thought
they had sent the wrong blade, but I double checked and it is correct.
Any ideas?
PJ
40032
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd3.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Thanks to all so far for the advice. I've thought about the reamers before but
that's about all the further that idea made it. What do I need to order to use
these. Do they just mount in the drill like the drill bit. Another question,
since deburring seems to enlarge the holes could you actually use reamers
smaller than the #30 and #40 and deburr??? Finally, I have the air pressure down
to about 25-30 PSI for the cogsdill. It does a decent job but when you drag
your finger across the hole after deburring you can still feel jus a little
"scratch" on your finger. Run the cogsdill through again and it nearly removes
too much. I think it's just one of those things that I'm going to have to
work with more!!!
Now, as for the scotch-brite, if the concensus is that no further deburring is
necessary then I'll just start doing that on as much of the holes as possible.
This is by far the easiest and cleanest way of deburring that I've found. Like
was stated before, I'll be removing the alclad but I'm priming all the inside
anyway!!!
Keep the suggestions coming, and thanks!!!
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: John Jessen
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Bruce gives good advice. I love the Cogsdill. However, it did take me almost
the entire Rudder to get it to work correctly. There are two, maybe three obvious
variables. 1. rotational speed 2. speed at which you move the tool into
and out of the hole 3. spring tension on the blade. I found that if I lowered
my PSI on my air drill to around 25 pounds, it seems to be the right speed
for the speed at which I move the blade into and out of the hole. The number
of rotations apparently is just about right. I think it matches my manual
deburring the closest. (Manual deburring, with one of Avery's or other's tool,
probably is the best, and I would recommend it over using scotch brite. However,
be careful there as well. You can use that same tool to machine countersink
and it can happen fast! One or one and a half rotations only.) The blade
tensioning is again related to the first two variables. However, try to set
it on the light side of medium tension and it won't hurt the material that much.
Another way of approaching this is to use a reamer instead of the drill bit.
When I switched over to reamers, deburring was far easier and faster. Maybe
Bruce can, as an A&P student, comment on the differences, but it's clear that
the reamer cleans up the hole much nicer than the aggressively cutting drill.
Even if you pre-assemble the parts with clecos, reaming the holes to size is
great. Some are not even pre-assembling.
Finally, I've suggested to Bob Avery that he reconsider the Cogsdill. It's a
great tool and I've had very little problems with breakage. Also, deburring
is often over done, and that's per Van's. So proper use of the Cogsdill should
get you an acceptable result.
John Jessen
~328 (buildus interruptus continues)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Case
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 8:40 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
Bill,
Removing sharp edges including inside the bore of the hole is an important part
of removing potential stress raisers. Also if you are hitting the skin with
a scotchbrite wheel you are potentially and probably removing the Alclad surface
in that area. I found that the simple hand spinning deburring tool from
Avery works fine and is reasonably fast. Avery used to sell the Cogsdill tool
but abandoned because it was too finicky. Proper deburring should just remove
the burr and leave a minute almost hard to perceive countersink.
Bruce Case
RV-10 rudder/ A&P student
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 12:10 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
I've been using my new Cogsdill deburrers and am having less than acceptable
results with the #40. I've adjusted it several times (spring tension) and still
get mixed results. So, what I did on the last skin that I deburred tonight
is use the small scotchbrite wheel in a die-grinder and smooth the hole first.
Much better results with almost no burrs left, where I was having to do most
of the holes before this twice to get results even close to this (and more
than once enlarging the hole more than I prefer). My question is this: After
running the scotchbrite wheel over the hole smoothing out the burrs is it necessary
to go ahead and use the cogsdill deburrer??? The hole feels smooth with
no burrs but I'm not sure if the wheel will just lay some of the burrs over
(into the hole) or if it actually removes what it hit There are no visible burrs
left after the wheel. so if any they would be microscopic!!!
The side that is punched at the factory is quite a bit smoother than the other
side so it's the rougher side that I'm using the wheel on. Anybody else doing
this, or having similar problems with the cogsdill deburrers, or am I just
being too picky about the deburring???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd1.ruraltel.net
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* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
I agree completely. The 30 is awesome, but the smaller 40 is pretty tempermental!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: bob.kaufmann
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2005 8:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
It was a pain in the buttocks getting the 40 set but now I like it a lot. The
30 you would have to pry from my cold dead fingers. I use them all the time
and it is a huge time saver.
Bob K
Fuselage side skins, right side.
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
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* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
PJ, mine is exactly the opposite. Removes way too much on the through pass
and not nearly enough on the back pass. I've been able to remedy this
slightly by decreasing air pressure and slowing the drill down and by easing
up the force applied to the drill by me, but it still removes too much. I'm
wondering if maybe I shouldn't just get rid of the #40 and keep the #30. As
I stated before, the #30 is great!!!
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "PJ Seipel" <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
>
> I've had trouble adjusting my #40 Cogsdill. On the forward pass, it
> removes almost no material, and on the backward pass it darn near
> countersinks the hole. My #30 works beautifully. At first I thought they
> had sent the wrong blade, but I double checked and it is correct. Any
> ideas?
>
> PJ
> 40032
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
I an not using them as I have not been very impressed with them. I also don't
like the idea of the blade going inside the hole. They are faster but the quality
I am getting is not as good as a standard deburring tool. Maybe they need
to be adjusted better.
If someone is interested I am selling mine for half my cost.
Niko
40188
PJ Seipel wrote:
I've had trouble adjusting my #40 Cogsdill. On the forward pass, it
removes almost no material, and on the backward pass it darn near
countersinks the hole. My #30 works beautifully. At first I thought
they had sent the wrong blade, but I double checked and it is correct.
Any ideas?
PJ
40032
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
Tim and Rick, here is the picture of the control stick. You might
see the snap bushing used where the wires penetrate the bow shaped
part of the control stick. The hole on the vertical part serves only
as access hole. This is the best I could do, I hope it helps.
Rob
_IGP0242.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange |
Thanks for the info Anh. I allready dimpled it last night but didn't attach the
skin because I had mistakently riveted two of the skin stiffeners incorrectly.
The left and right hand one were reversed. By the time I drilled out the
rivets and re-riveted the stiffeners in the correct location it was too late to
do anything else. Maybe that was a good thing as now I can easily flatten out
the one dimple.
Niko
DejaVu wrote:
Niko,
One hole at the exact center does not get dimpled or riveted. This is where
you will use a screw/nut to hold the bottom cowl support bracket later.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 05, 2005 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling of Firewall Bottom Flange
I am about to rivet the Fwd Fuselage bottom skin to the firewall flange. I have
not seen the instructions mention anything about dimpling the firewall flange.
I am assuming it has to be dimpled as the skin is dimpled. Can someone
who has been through this step verify this?
Thanks
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Another variable to consider that is particularly relevant to the #40 is
the thickness of the material, this will have a significant effect on
the results. At the outset of building, I was almost paranoid about this
whole deburring thing, and worried that my plane might crack and
disintegrate mid-air. I believe one of my plaintiff queries started a
thread that went way too long on the subject. However, I received a
reply from someone that really put it in perspective, The comment was
that during WWII they were cranking out planes as fast as possible,
Mustangs, B-17's etc. and they didn't take the time to debur any of
those. They didn't fall out of the air due to stress cracks then and
those that survived demolition are still flying today. I thought about
that, alot and haven't stressed over deburring since then. Thanks to
whoever sent that little bit of wisdom! I still deburr, using the
Cogsdill, and believe that it's way faster than any alternative, Is it
perfect? nope. Do I have to adjust the tool or my technique from
session to session? Yep! Would I trade it? you'd have to pry it from my
cold dead fingers!
Deems Davis # 406
Wing Flaps
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
I'm ready to layout my instrument panel and I'm wondering how much to
trim off the ribs. Can someone that has done this shed some light on
the subject before I get out the sawzaw?
RV10 Fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
Has anyone compiled a good POH for the -10 yet?
grumpy 40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Nah, I think there was one other guy back in the early 90's
> that did too. ;)
>
> (Depends on what you mean by hand...a large portion are at least
> using the electric screwdriver attachment)
I have the typical electric screwdriver attachment, but
I find myself just twirling it by hand (not in the screwdriver)
for most things. I dunno - I just find it "easier" somehow.
Different strokes, I guess! :-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Cogsdill burraway questions |
I have worked with a guy in Murray Bridge in South Australia who has built
an RV 4, RV8 and most recently RV 7A. I have seen and flown the 7A and can
say the workmanship was first class. On all his skin preperation he pre
drills and then deburs each side with a larger drill with a machined
extension, type thingamajig.
Seems to work fine for me as well.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dj Merrill" <deej(at)deej.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cogsdill burraway questions
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> Nah, I think there was one other guy back in the early 90's
>> that did too. ;)
>>
>> (Depends on what you mean by hand...a large portion are at least
>> using the electric screwdriver attachment)
>
> I have the typical electric screwdriver attachment, but
> I find myself just twirling it by hand (not in the screwdriver)
> for most things. I dunno - I just find it "easier" somehow.
> Different strokes, I guess! :-)
>
> -Dj
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Deluxe Fuel Caps |
G'day all,
Several weeks ago I threw out a question asking for feedback on the
Deluxe Fuel Caps available from Van's. I got a couple of responses, but
the overall dearth of interest I took to mean that almost no-one has them.
So . . . . . . now that I have the caps in my hot little hands, I
thought I would throw out a PIREP for anyone searching for the answer to
the same question in future.
Straight out of the box the Deluxe Caps look nicer than the standards
with a more polished appearance. The dimensions of both are the same
with the exception of the diameter of the filler neck, which is less on
the deluxe caps due to the locking mechanism. The flange on the deluxe
caps has a curve machined into it, so there is no need for any flange
bending. That being said, the curve is a little too tight to fit the
RV-10 tank skins well, I would imagine it would fit the other model's
tanks much better. Nothing a bit of Proseal can't fill in any case.
The standard caps have no separate locking mechanism. They are held in
with the seal, which is formed by squeezing an O-Ring, forcing it
outwards against the filler neck. I have seen a number of people report
fuel leaks from around this seal.
The deluxe caps have a two stage mechanism. The lowering of the clip
presses the O-Ring at the top of the cap down against the angled wall of
the filler neck, forming a more positive seal. With the clip up (and
seal released) the cap is still held in, though it is loose. The cap is
released by turning the clip 45 degrees, at which point the caps easily
lifts out (as opposed to the force required to pull out the standard
cap). The deluxe caps also can come with a key lock which is hidden
below the clip.
Overall all I am very impressed with these caps and very glad I bought
them. Besides the fact they are just better, I think the ability to
lock them is valuable in this day and age (unfortunately). Yes, they
cost significantly more than the standard caps, but compared to the
amount of money we are sinking into these aircraft . . . . . . . .
I will be uploading some pictures into the Photoshare which hopefully
will clarify some of my babble from above!!
Have fun all,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Deluxe Fuel Caps |
Scott, well done. You sold me!
John Jessen
~328 (still learning how to read Jessen, John. I know. It's pitiful.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Subject: RV10-List: Deluxe Fuel Caps
G'day all,
Several weeks ago I threw out a question asking for feedback on the Deluxe
Fuel Caps available from Van's. I got a couple of responses, but the
overall dearth of interest I took to mean that almost no-one has them.
So . . . . . . now that I have the caps in my hot little hands, I thought I
would throw out a PIREP for anyone searching for the answer to the same
question in future.
Straight out of the box the Deluxe Caps look nicer than the standards with a
more polished appearance. The dimensions of both are the same with the
exception of the diameter of the filler neck, which is less on the deluxe
caps due to the locking mechanism. The flange on the deluxe caps has a
curve machined into it, so there is no need for any flange bending. That
being said, the curve is a little too tight to fit the RV-10 tank skins
well, I would imagine it would fit the other model's tanks much better.
Nothing a bit of Proseal can't fill in any case.
The standard caps have no separate locking mechanism. They are held in with
the seal, which is formed by squeezing an O-Ring, forcing it outwards
against the filler neck. I have seen a number of people report
fuel leaks from around this seal.
The deluxe caps have a two stage mechanism. The lowering of the clip
presses the O-Ring at the top of the cap down against the angled wall of the
filler neck, forming a more positive seal. With the clip up (and seal
released) the cap is still held in, though it is loose. The cap is released
by turning the clip 45 degrees, at which point the caps easily lifts out (as
opposed to the force required to pull out the standard cap). The deluxe
caps also can come with a key lock which is hidden below the clip.
Overall all I am very impressed with these caps and very glad I bought them.
Besides the fact they are just better, I think the ability to lock them is
valuable in this day and age (unfortunately). Yes, they cost significantly
more than the standard caps, but compared to the amount of money we are
sinking into these aircraft . . . . . . . .
I will be uploading some pictures into the Photoshare which hopefully will
clarify some of my babble from above!!
Have fun all,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Today's my birthday, so my wife reminded me that I already got
my present for the next few years. Along with this
decade's Christmas presents. Attached is a photo.
With the engine stuff almost wrapped up, it's time for me to
get the panel and airframe wired, as that's the last major
remaining task. Over the past few days, I silkscreened my
panel (highly recommended if you do it yourself), and then
clearcoated it with clear and a flattening agent to prevent
glare. It looks pretty nice.
I thought I'd send the most recent picture. Some of you
might notice that there's a CDI installed now. There's
a story to this...
As with most aviation vendors, it seems, there's been the
usual hype regarding functionality, and when the actual
stuff shows up, it's not exactly as it was said earlier.
In this case, the GNS480 turns out to not be as well-integrated
into the Chelton scheme as was said. The SL-30 does just
about everything, and is an ideal radio for integration.
The GNS480 though, needs to have some work done before it'll
integrate. The #1 integration lacking is the CDI display.
The Chelton can take in the 430/530 type communications, but
apparently when Garmin bought the CNX-80, all development
stopped. Therefore the 480 isn't capable of speaking the same
language. On the same token, the engineers at Chelton aren't
ready to try to decode what the 480 IS capable of. So,
no CDI. I know I could use the built-in CDI, but for absolute
legality and redundancy and full-function for flying all
approaches, I decided just to put the external CDI in. I
had previously saved the space for just this occasion. Yes,
from the sounds of it, if they had enough call from customers
to get the development motivated to integrate the 480, it
could be done. A call to Garmin verified that it should
be able to display the remote CDI indication, if it were able
to understand the communication. Supposedly it would be
similar to integrating a Sandel 3308. Garmin did also say
that development isn't finished the 480, and new features
that might make it more "integratable" might come down
the pipeline, but apparently it's also on their back
burner right now too.
In addition, it was said that to make the 480 integrate,
you need an Arinc to serial converter. Well, as it turns
out, the converter is currently going to be useless in
helping the 480. What it IS needed for is integrating the
traffic display from the 330 Transponder. So, I'll be adding
one. The downside though, is that it is now believed that
the Chelton, if they put the engineering time into it,
will be able to receive the traffic via serial output on
the 330. So in the end, the converter may not be needed
for anything, and full functionality may be available.
For me, I will be very glad I bought the SL-30, and that you
can display 2 NAV signals from the SL-30 on the screen, so
the actual CDI display and remote tuning of the 480 are
really not to big of a problem. And, I bought the converter
so I can have traffic TODAY. But, ultimately I am guessing
that I'll be looking for an ADS-B system in the next couple
years anyway, so I know I'm throwing away a bit of cash
from impatience. The sad part is that most everything
people want, would be available, if everyone's engineering
departments really wanted to get it done.
I'll make sure I post things about the integration and wiring
on my site. Hopefully I'll be able to have some good info
that will help others in the future. The wiring headaches
are about to begin. ;)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel update |
So, are you saying the 430 is a better option to team up with the
Chelton because the Chelton can integrate with the 430?
Or, are you saying skipping a panel GPS and maybe having a handheld
backup is the way to go when installing the Chelton?
Thanks Tim...
-Sean #40303
Tim Olson wrote:
> Today's my birthday, so my wife reminded me that I already got
> my present for the next few years. Along with this
> decade's Christmas presents. Attached is a photo.
>
> With the engine stuff almost wrapped up, it's time for me to
> get the panel and airframe wired, as that's the last major
> remaining task. Over the past few days, I silkscreened my
> panel (highly recommended if you do it yourself), and then
> clearcoated it with clear and a flattening agent to prevent
> glare. It looks pretty nice.
>
> I thought I'd send the most recent picture. Some of you
> might notice that there's a CDI installed now. There's
> a story to this...
>
> As with most aviation vendors, it seems, there's been the
> usual hype regarding functionality, and when the actual
> stuff shows up, it's not exactly as it was said earlier.
>
> In this case, the GNS480 turns out to not be as well-integrated
> into the Chelton scheme as was said. The SL-30 does just
> about everything, and is an ideal radio for integration.
> The GNS480 though, needs to have some work done before it'll
> integrate. The #1 integration lacking is the CDI display.
> The Chelton can take in the 430/530 type communications, but
> apparently when Garmin bought the CNX-80, all development
> stopped. Therefore the 480 isn't capable of speaking the same
> language. On the same token, the engineers at Chelton aren't
> ready to try to decode what the 480 IS capable of. So,
> no CDI. I know I could use the built-in CDI, but for absolute
> legality and redundancy and full-function for flying all
> approaches, I decided just to put the external CDI in. I
> had previously saved the space for just this occasion. Yes,
> from the sounds of it, if they had enough call from customers
> to get the development motivated to integrate the 480, it
> could be done. A call to Garmin verified that it should
> be able to display the remote CDI indication, if it were able
> to understand the communication. Supposedly it would be
> similar to integrating a Sandel 3308. Garmin did also say
> that development isn't finished the 480, and new features
> that might make it more "integratable" might come down
> the pipeline, but apparently it's also on their back
> burner right now too.
>
> In addition, it was said that to make the 480 integrate,
> you need an Arinc to serial converter. Well, as it turns
> out, the converter is currently going to be useless in
> helping the 480. What it IS needed for is integrating the
> traffic display from the 330 Transponder. So, I'll be adding
> one. The downside though, is that it is now believed that
> the Chelton, if they put the engineering time into it,
> will be able to receive the traffic via serial output on
> the 330. So in the end, the converter may not be needed
> for anything, and full functionality may be available.
>
> For me, I will be very glad I bought the SL-30, and that you
> can display 2 NAV signals from the SL-30 on the screen, so
> the actual CDI display and remote tuning of the 480 are
> really not to big of a problem. And, I bought the converter
> so I can have traffic TODAY. But, ultimately I am guessing
> that I'll be looking for an ADS-B system in the next couple
> years anyway, so I know I'm throwing away a bit of cash
> from impatience. The sad part is that most everything
> people want, would be available, if everyone's engineering
> departments really wanted to get it done.
>
> I'll make sure I post things about the integration and wiring
> on my site. Hopefully I'll be able to have some good info
> that will help others in the future. The wiring headaches
> are about to begin. ;)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel update |
My take on it is this....(just an opinion that many would
not agree with maybe)
I would rather have the 480, since it's an official and
legal WAAS capable box. I think every chelton system
really needs to have an SL-30 as it's the ultimate
Nav/Com to use with the Chelton. I think the 430/530
would work better WITH the chelton than the 480 right
now, but without WAAS (yes, I know it's coming...at a cost)
I wouldn't bother with it.
The other option that I really think would be even better
is this: Use the remote-mount Freeflight GPS. It's WAAS
legal and would basically feed the chelton instead
of the AHRS GPS. So you'd have true WAAS legal approaches
driven by the Chelton. It's also just over 1/2 the cost
of the 480. What you lose is a separate redundant GPS
for your panel....something some people wouldn't care about.
So that's where the 2nd radio comes in....you could use
either a 430/530/480 as that radio, use something
else, or even use a nice handheld like the Garmin 396,
or the AvMap....or you could just stick in an SL-40,
and live with single Nav, one GPS, save a TON of cash,
and have a nice handheld as a backup that you keep off
your panel....and make it available to back-seat passengers
as an entertainment device for watching where you are.
There isn't really a "best" because each way has a downside.
That SL-30/SL-40/FreeFlight/Handheld option seems to give the
best redundancy and bang for the buck. With the SL-30/430
you're losing WAAS, or paying premium for it later.
The SL-30/480 option I have, is actually a very good way to
get 2 reliable GPS navigation and flight planning systems,
and the cost is actually not at the highest end of the
options if you demand WAAS. It just means that you're
480 isn't going to be very integrated. For me though,
I consider the 480 as being my "backup" to my system.
I'll fly 99% of the time with just the Chelton/SL-30.
Entering the approach into the 480 as I get time, just
as a reference. The downside is keeping track of how
to use 2 systems. Like I said though, there's
ALWAYS a downside....it just depends on your point of
view as to what you consider most critical. Hopefully,
the 480 will later be more integrated...which will
then leave few down sides.
Wow, I typed more than I thought I would. Good thing
I'm supposedly listening to a conference call right now. ;)
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> So, are you saying the 430 is a better option to team up with the
> Chelton because the Chelton can integrate with the 430?
>
> Or, are you saying skipping a panel GPS and maybe having a handheld
> backup is the way to go when installing the Chelton?
>
> Thanks Tim...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>
>> Today's my birthday, so my wife reminded me that I already got
>> my present for the next few years. Along with this
>> decade's Christmas presents. Attached is a photo.
>>
>> With the engine stuff almost wrapped up, it's time for me to
>> get the panel and airframe wired, as that's the last major
>> remaining task. Over the past few days, I silkscreened my
>> panel (highly recommended if you do it yourself), and then
>> clearcoated it with clear and a flattening agent to prevent
>> glare. It looks pretty nice.
>>
>> I thought I'd send the most recent picture. Some of you
>> might notice that there's a CDI installed now. There's
>> a story to this...
>>
>> As with most aviation vendors, it seems, there's been the
>> usual hype regarding functionality, and when the actual
>> stuff shows up, it's not exactly as it was said earlier.
>>
>> In this case, the GNS480 turns out to not be as well-integrated
>> into the Chelton scheme as was said. The SL-30 does just
>> about everything, and is an ideal radio for integration.
>> The GNS480 though, needs to have some work done before it'll
>> integrate. The #1 integration lacking is the CDI display.
>> The Chelton can take in the 430/530 type communications, but
>> apparently when Garmin bought the CNX-80, all development
>> stopped. Therefore the 480 isn't capable of speaking the same
>> language. On the same token, the engineers at Chelton aren't
>> ready to try to decode what the 480 IS capable of. So,
>> no CDI. I know I could use the built-in CDI, but for absolute
>> legality and redundancy and full-function for flying all
>> approaches, I decided just to put the external CDI in. I
>> had previously saved the space for just this occasion. Yes,
>> from the sounds of it, if they had enough call from customers
>> to get the development motivated to integrate the 480, it
>> could be done. A call to Garmin verified that it should
>> be able to display the remote CDI indication, if it were able
>> to understand the communication. Supposedly it would be
>> similar to integrating a Sandel 3308. Garmin did also say
>> that development isn't finished the 480, and new features
>> that might make it more "integratable" might come down
>> the pipeline, but apparently it's also on their back
>> burner right now too.
>>
>> In addition, it was said that to make the 480 integrate,
>> you need an Arinc to serial converter. Well, as it turns
>> out, the converter is currently going to be useless in
>> helping the 480. What it IS needed for is integrating the
>> traffic display from the 330 Transponder. So, I'll be adding
>> one. The downside though, is that it is now believed that
>> the Chelton, if they put the engineering time into it,
>> will be able to receive the traffic via serial output on
>> the 330. So in the end, the converter may not be needed
>> for anything, and full functionality may be available.
>>
>> For me, I will be very glad I bought the SL-30, and that you
>> can display 2 NAV signals from the SL-30 on the screen, so
>> the actual CDI display and remote tuning of the 480 are
>> really not to big of a problem. And, I bought the converter
>> so I can have traffic TODAY. But, ultimately I am guessing
>> that I'll be looking for an ADS-B system in the next couple
>> years anyway, so I know I'm throwing away a bit of cash
>> from impatience. The sad part is that most everything
>> people want, would be available, if everyone's engineering
>> departments really wanted to get it done.
>>
>> I'll make sure I post things about the integration and wiring
>> on my site. Hopefully I'll be able to have some good info
>> that will help others in the future. The wiring headaches
>> are about to begin. ;)
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Especially until ADS-B gets figured out, the way to go for traffic is to
get a dedicated on-board traffic sensor, so you control your own
destiny. Talk to your favorite Avidyne dealer about the updated TAS600
products, brought on board with our merger with Ryan International last
month. Only $9990 gets you an ACTIVE traffic system with audio voice
call-outs of traffic.
http://www.avidyne.com/products/tas600.shtm
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Subject: RV10-List: Panel update
Today's my birthday, so my wife reminded me that I already got
my present for the next few years. Along with this
decade's Christmas presents. Attached is a photo.
With the engine stuff almost wrapped up, it's time for me to
get the panel and airframe wired, as that's the last major
remaining task. Over the past few days, I silkscreened my
panel (highly recommended if you do it yourself), and then
clearcoated it with clear and a flattening agent to prevent
glare. It looks pretty nice.
I thought I'd send the most recent picture. Some of you
might notice that there's a CDI installed now. There's
a story to this...
As with most aviation vendors, it seems, there's been the
usual hype regarding functionality, and when the actual
stuff shows up, it's not exactly as it was said earlier.
In this case, the GNS480 turns out to not be as well-integrated
into the Chelton scheme as was said. The SL-30 does just
about everything, and is an ideal radio for integration.
The GNS480 though, needs to have some work done before it'll
integrate. The #1 integration lacking is the CDI display.
The Chelton can take in the 430/530 type communications, but
apparently when Garmin bought the CNX-80, all development
stopped. Therefore the 480 isn't capable of speaking the same
language. On the same token, the engineers at Chelton aren't
ready to try to decode what the 480 IS capable of. So,
no CDI. I know I could use the built-in CDI, but for absolute
legality and redundancy and full-function for flying all
approaches, I decided just to put the external CDI in. I
had previously saved the space for just this occasion. Yes,
from the sounds of it, if they had enough call from customers
to get the development motivated to integrate the 480, it
could be done. A call to Garmin verified that it should
be able to display the remote CDI indication, if it were able
to understand the communication. Supposedly it would be
similar to integrating a Sandel 3308. Garmin did also say
that development isn't finished the 480, and new features
that might make it more "integratable" might come down
the pipeline, but apparently it's also on their back
burner right now too.
In addition, it was said that to make the 480 integrate,
you need an Arinc to serial converter. Well, as it turns
out, the converter is currently going to be useless in
helping the 480. What it IS needed for is integrating the
traffic display from the 330 Transponder. So, I'll be adding
one. The downside though, is that it is now believed that
the Chelton, if they put the engineering time into it,
will be able to receive the traffic via serial output on
the 330. So in the end, the converter may not be needed
for anything, and full functionality may be available.
For me, I will be very glad I bought the SL-30, and that you
can display 2 NAV signals from the SL-30 on the screen, so
the actual CDI display and remote tuning of the 480 are
really not to big of a problem. And, I bought the converter
so I can have traffic TODAY. But, ultimately I am guessing
that I'll be looking for an ADS-B system in the next couple
years anyway, so I know I'm throwing away a bit of cash
from impatience. The sad part is that most everything
people want, would be available, if everyone's engineering
departments really wanted to get it done.
I'll make sure I post things about the integration and wiring
on my site. Hopefully I'll be able to have some good info
that will help others in the future. The wiring headaches
are about to begin. ;)
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel update |
Garmin has delayed WAAS for the 430/530 twice. From a computer standpoint I
doubt they will ever be able to justify the ? millions extra to WAAS them. I
expect that the reason they bought UPS was to get the 480.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Panel update
>
> My take on it is this....(just an opinion that many would
> not agree with maybe)
>
> I would rather have the 480, since it's an official and
> legal WAAS capable box. I think every chelton system
> really needs to have an SL-30 as it's the ultimate
> Nav/Com to use with the Chelton. I think the 430/530
> would work better WITH the chelton than the 480 right
> now, but without WAAS (yes, I know it's coming...at a cost)
> I wouldn't bother with it.
>
> The other option that I really think would be even better
> is this: Use the remote-mount Freeflight GPS. It's WAAS
> legal and would basically feed the chelton instead
> of the AHRS GPS. So you'd have true WAAS legal approaches
> driven by the Chelton. It's also just over 1/2 the cost
> of the 480. What you lose is a separate redundant GPS
> for your panel....something some people wouldn't care about.
> So that's where the 2nd radio comes in....you could use
> either a 430/530/480 as that radio, use something
> else, or even use a nice handheld like the Garmin 396,
> or the AvMap....or you could just stick in an SL-40,
> and live with single Nav, one GPS, save a TON of cash,
> and have a nice handheld as a backup that you keep off
> your panel....and make it available to back-seat passengers
> as an entertainment device for watching where you are.
>
> There isn't really a "best" because each way has a downside.
> That SL-30/SL-40/FreeFlight/Handheld option seems to give the
> best redundancy and bang for the buck. With the SL-30/430
> you're losing WAAS, or paying premium for it later.
> The SL-30/480 option I have, is actually a very good way to
> get 2 reliable GPS navigation and flight planning systems,
> and the cost is actually not at the highest end of the
> options if you demand WAAS. It just means that you're
> 480 isn't going to be very integrated. For me though,
> I consider the 480 as being my "backup" to my system.
> I'll fly 99% of the time with just the Chelton/SL-30.
> Entering the approach into the 480 as I get time, just
> as a reference. The downside is keeping track of how
> to use 2 systems. Like I said though, there's
> ALWAYS a downside....it just depends on your point of
> view as to what you consider most critical. Hopefully,
> the 480 will later be more integrated...which will
> then leave few down sides.
>
> Wow, I typed more than I thought I would. Good thing
> I'm supposedly listening to a conference call right now. ;)
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>> So, are you saying the 430 is a better option to team up with the Chelton
>> because the Chelton can integrate with the 430?
>>
>> Or, are you saying skipping a panel GPS and maybe having a handheld
>> backup is the way to go when installing the Chelton?
>>
>> Thanks Tim...
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>> Today's my birthday, so my wife reminded me that I already got
>>> my present for the next few years. Along with this
>>> decade's Christmas presents. Attached is a photo.
>>>
>>> With the engine stuff almost wrapped up, it's time for me to
>>> get the panel and airframe wired, as that's the last major
>>> remaining task. Over the past few days, I silkscreened my
>>> panel (highly recommended if you do it yourself), and then
>>> clearcoated it with clear and a flattening agent to prevent
>>> glare. It looks pretty nice.
>>>
>>> I thought I'd send the most recent picture. Some of you
>>> might notice that there's a CDI installed now. There's
>>> a story to this...
>>>
>>> As with most aviation vendors, it seems, there's been the
>>> usual hype regarding functionality, and when the actual
>>> stuff shows up, it's not exactly as it was said earlier.
>>>
>>> In this case, the GNS480 turns out to not be as well-integrated
>>> into the Chelton scheme as was said. The SL-30 does just
>>> about everything, and is an ideal radio for integration.
>>> The GNS480 though, needs to have some work done before it'll
>>> integrate. The #1 integration lacking is the CDI display.
>>> The Chelton can take in the 430/530 type communications, but
>>> apparently when Garmin bought the CNX-80, all development
>>> stopped. Therefore the 480 isn't capable of speaking the same
>>> language. On the same token, the engineers at Chelton aren't
>>> ready to try to decode what the 480 IS capable of. So,
>>> no CDI. I know I could use the built-in CDI, but for absolute
>>> legality and redundancy and full-function for flying all
>>> approaches, I decided just to put the external CDI in. I
>>> had previously saved the space for just this occasion. Yes,
>>> from the sounds of it, if they had enough call from customers
>>> to get the development motivated to integrate the 480, it
>>> could be done. A call to Garmin verified that it should
>>> be able to display the remote CDI indication, if it were able
>>> to understand the communication. Supposedly it would be
>>> similar to integrating a Sandel 3308. Garmin did also say
>>> that development isn't finished the 480, and new features
>>> that might make it more "integratable" might come down
>>> the pipeline, but apparently it's also on their back
>>> burner right now too.
>>>
>>> In addition, it was said that to make the 480 integrate,
>>> you need an Arinc to serial converter. Well, as it turns
>>> out, the converter is currently going to be useless in
>>> helping the 480. What it IS needed for is integrating the
>>> traffic display from the 330 Transponder. So, I'll be adding
>>> one. The downside though, is that it is now believed that
>>> the Chelton, if they put the engineering time into it,
>>> will be able to receive the traffic via serial output on
>>> the 330. So in the end, the converter may not be needed
>>> for anything, and full functionality may be available.
>>>
>>> For me, I will be very glad I bought the SL-30, and that you
>>> can display 2 NAV signals from the SL-30 on the screen, so
>>> the actual CDI display and remote tuning of the 480 are
>>> really not to big of a problem. And, I bought the converter
>>> so I can have traffic TODAY. But, ultimately I am guessing
>>> that I'll be looking for an ADS-B system in the next couple
>>> years anyway, so I know I'm throwing away a bit of cash
>>> from impatience. The sad part is that most everything
>>> people want, would be available, if everyone's engineering
>>> departments really wanted to get it done.
>>>
>>> I'll make sure I post things about the integration and wiring
>>> on my site. Hopefully I'll be able to have some good info
>>> that will help others in the future. The wiring headaches
>>> are about to begin. ;)
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel update |
Cough, gag, cough cough.... "Only" $9990?
Doug P, to answer your question in your post, no, I haven't investigated
anything. I don't know that they're a cheap or transponder way into
the ADS-B realm yet. I just figure that my 330 will be sold eventually
and replaced with something else, once the market comes to a
*reasonable* price of maybe $2500.
TDT, man, you crack me up! ;) Great products, though.
Tim
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
>
>
> Especially until ADS-B gets figured out, the way to go for traffic is to
> get a dedicated on-board traffic sensor, so you control your own
> destiny. Talk to your favorite Avidyne dealer about the updated TAS600
> products, brought on board with our merger with Ryan International last
> month. Only $9990 gets you an ACTIVE traffic system with audio voice
> call-outs of traffic.
> http://www.avidyne.com/products/tas600.shtm
>
>
>
>
> TDT
> 40025
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 10:14 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: Panel update
>
> Today's my birthday, so my wife reminded me that I already got
> my present for the next few years. Along with this
> decade's Christmas presents. Attached is a photo.
>
> With the engine stuff almost wrapped up, it's time for me to
> get the panel and airframe wired, as that's the last major
> remaining task. Over the past few days, I silkscreened my
> panel (highly recommended if you do it yourself), and then
> clearcoated it with clear and a flattening agent to prevent
> glare. It looks pretty nice.
>
> I thought I'd send the most recent picture. Some of you
> might notice that there's a CDI installed now. There's
> a story to this...
>
> As with most aviation vendors, it seems, there's been the
> usual hype regarding functionality, and when the actual
> stuff shows up, it's not exactly as it was said earlier.
>
> In this case, the GNS480 turns out to not be as well-integrated
> into the Chelton scheme as was said. The SL-30 does just
> about everything, and is an ideal radio for integration.
> The GNS480 though, needs to have some work done before it'll
> integrate. The #1 integration lacking is the CDI display.
> The Chelton can take in the 430/530 type communications, but
> apparently when Garmin bought the CNX-80, all development
> stopped. Therefore the 480 isn't capable of speaking the same
> language. On the same token, the engineers at Chelton aren't
> ready to try to decode what the 480 IS capable of. So,
> no CDI. I know I could use the built-in CDI, but for absolute
> legality and redundancy and full-function for flying all
> approaches, I decided just to put the external CDI in. I
> had previously saved the space for just this occasion. Yes,
> from the sounds of it, if they had enough call from customers
> to get the development motivated to integrate the 480, it
> could be done. A call to Garmin verified that it should
> be able to display the remote CDI indication, if it were able
> to understand the communication. Supposedly it would be
> similar to integrating a Sandel 3308. Garmin did also say
> that development isn't finished the 480, and new features
> that might make it more "integratable" might come down
> the pipeline, but apparently it's also on their back
> burner right now too.
>
> In addition, it was said that to make the 480 integrate,
> you need an Arinc to serial converter. Well, as it turns
> out, the converter is currently going to be useless in
> helping the 480. What it IS needed for is integrating the
> traffic display from the 330 Transponder. So, I'll be adding
> one. The downside though, is that it is now believed that
> the Chelton, if they put the engineering time into it,
> will be able to receive the traffic via serial output on
> the 330. So in the end, the converter may not be needed
> for anything, and full functionality may be available.
>
> For me, I will be very glad I bought the SL-30, and that you
> can display 2 NAV signals from the SL-30 on the screen, so
> the actual CDI display and remote tuning of the 480 are
> really not to big of a problem. And, I bought the converter
> so I can have traffic TODAY. But, ultimately I am guessing
> that I'll be looking for an ADS-B system in the next couple
> years anyway, so I know I'm throwing away a bit of cash
> from impatience. The sad part is that most everything
> people want, would be available, if everyone's engineering
> departments really wanted to get it done.
>
> I'll make sure I post things about the integration and wiring
> on my site. Hopefully I'll be able to have some good info
> that will help others in the future. The wiring headaches
> are about to begin. ;)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Overhead Lights & Speaker |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
What is/has everyone done for overhead lighting and a speaker?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I am installing the Blue Mountain EFIS. Any recommendations on an OAT
probe?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
<31DA4D6E997EF24BA2E0F10B2A39768A10F320@XCH-NE-1V2.ne.nos.boeing.com>
If you are talking about where to get one, use BMA,s. If you are asking
where to mount it, drill a hole in the NACA vent and epoxy it there. I am
using Blue Mountain also.
Jim
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Conti, Rick
Date: 12/07/05 13:05:16
Subject: RV10-List: OAT
I am installing the Blue Mountain EFIS. Any recommendations on an OAT
probe?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
I'm not an aeronautical eng guy, but don't NACA vents work off the Bernoulli
principle? If so, when the air gets "vacuumed" into the vent, the pressure
and temperature both decrease, which would cause a lower than actual
reading. Of course, maybe it would offset the friction heating of the air
passing across the airframe at the higher speeds that the RV-10 goes.
Replies would be great, because that's a nice out-of-the-way place to put
the probe if it's sound.
Rob
#392
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OAT
If you are talking about where to get one, use BMA,s. If you are asking
where to mount it, drill a hole in the NACA vent and epoxy it there. I am
using Blue Mountain also.
Jim
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Conti, Rick <mailto:rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
Date: 12/07/05 13:05:16
Subject: RV10-List: OAT
I am installing the Blue Mountain EFIS. Any recommendations on an OAT
probe?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
Every NACA duct mounted OAT on certified fuselages has resulted in
excessively high readings, due to engine heat.
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> Im not an aeronautical eng guy, but dont NACA vents work off the
> Bernoulli principle? If so, when the air gets vacuumed into the
> vent, the pressure and temperature both decrease, which would cause a
> lower than actual reading. Of course, maybe it would offset the
> friction heating of the air passing across the airframe at the higher
> speeds that the RV-10 goes
>
> Replies would be great, because thats a nice out-of-the-way place to
> put the probe if its sound.
>
> Rob
>
> #392
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim Wade
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 07, 2005 3:31 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: OAT
>
> If you are talking about where to get one, use BMA,s. If you are
> asking where to mount it, drill a hole in the NACA vent and epoxy it
> there. I am using Blue Mountain also.
>
> Jim
>
> 40383
>
> /-------Original Message-------/
>
> */From:/* Conti, Rick
>
> */Date:/* 12/07/05 13:05:16
>
> */To:/* RV 10
>
> */Subject:/* RV10-List: OAT
>
> >
>
> I am installing the Blue Mountain EFIS. Any recommendations on an OAT
>
> probe?
>
> Thank You
>
> Rick Conti
>
> Senior Engineering Manager
>
> The Boeing Company
>
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
>
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel update |
Ti & list:
Once again I think we are on the same page...great minds or something like
that.
For a lot of the reasons you listed including a budget I went with:
2 screen Chelton with Freeflight WAAS reciever
SL 30 Nav Com
Sl 40 Com
327 transponder
PSE 7000 audio panel
TruTrak 2.25 ADI
VM 1000C engine monitor
This should allow filing as a /G aircraft and the ability to legally fly any
GPS approach including the new LPVs. As much as I would have liked a 430 or
480 I could not justify the expense of two FMS type navigators when the
Chelton already has such good flight management software. Also it did not
appear that the two (480/430-Chelton) would talk to each other with respect
to editing flight plans. I already have a 396 which I think I will semi
permanently mount on the tunnel. This will be a back up navigator and
weather source. In general I tried to include the minimum equipment
necessary (plus good backups) to suppliment the Chelton based system. While
the Chelton is expensive, if you consider all it does and then price what
you need to duplicate it with other combinations you end up very near the
same price. I have used a VM1000 in the 4 for years and like it so I went
with their new version again.
Five years ago I never would have dreamed one could get this kind of
functionality for the relatively reasonable price it can had for today.
Best regards
Dick Sipp
40065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
I am about to close up the fuse floor panels and want to be sure I have
taken care of all wiring that needs t be planned for now. My current plan is
to run a Vans 3/4" conduit down each side from the tail to the mid side
panel for misc. wiring (autopilot, trim, nav light, +12s, static air lines,
etc) and any future additions. I plan to run the strobe wires and com
antenna wires separately. And I plan to run the battery + and ground to the
firewall with 2awg Perihelion cable through separate bushings.
What do I need to be aware of in general? Which side of the fuse should the
main battery wires go? On what side of the firewall will the starter
contactor go? What route should the wires take through the side panels
(along the top, bottom, other)? Where should I route the wires to? - will
there be connectors for all panel wires or should I leave some of them long
to go right to the instrument/radio? If connectors are used between the
panel, where will they go and what type is preferred? Do I go over or
through the main center spar? What else can you tell me that will help at
this stage? Any photos would be great.
Thank you in advance for answers to any or all of the questions (I know this
is a long list)
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Finishing QB wings, working on QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Kelly, not all NACA ducts on Certifieds are mounted on engine cowls, so
are you saying it could be compressed air generated heat by the faster
airflow? Raytheon has just a few models and I've flown a few Cessnas
where that was not the case. Maybe it's those extra knots generated by
using a less drag inducing appendage than a 1950's style pickup air
duct.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: OAT
Every NACA duct mounted OAT on certified fuselages has resulted in
excessively high readings, due to engine heat.
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> I'm not an aeronautical eng guy, but don't NACA vents work off the
> Bernoulli principle? If so, when the air gets "vacuumed" into the
> vent, the pressure and temperature both decrease, which would cause a
> lower than actual reading. Of course, maybe it would offset the
> friction heating of the air passing across the airframe at the higher
> speeds that the RV-10 goes...
>
> Replies would be great, because that's a nice out-of-the-way place to
> put the probe if it's sound.
>
> Rob
>
> #392
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Deluxe Fuel Caps |
So why do we need locking fuel caps? Is it for contamination concerns?
People stealing the cap for their own plane? I just have never heard of
fuel/tank related thievery.
-ChrisL
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Lewis" <rv10(at)tpg.com.au>
Subject: RV10-List: Deluxe Fuel Caps
>
> G'day all,
>
> Several weeks ago I threw out a question asking for feedback on the Deluxe
> Fuel Caps available from Van's. I got a couple of responses, but the
> overall dearth of interest I took to mean that almost no-one has them.
>
> So . . . . . . now that I have the caps in my hot little hands, I thought
> I would throw out a PIREP for anyone searching for the answer to the same
> question in future.
>
> Straight out of the box the Deluxe Caps look nicer than the standards with
> a more polished appearance. The dimensions of both are the same with the
> exception of the diameter of the filler neck, which is less on the deluxe
> caps due to the locking mechanism. The flange on the deluxe caps has a
> curve machined into it, so there is no need for any flange bending. That
> being said, the curve is a little too tight to fit the RV-10 tank skins
> well, I would imagine it would fit the other model's tanks much better.
> Nothing a bit of Proseal can't fill in any case.
>
> The standard caps have no separate locking mechanism. They are held in
> with the seal, which is formed by squeezing an O-Ring, forcing it outwards
> against the filler neck. I have seen a number of people report fuel leaks
> from around this seal.
> The deluxe caps have a two stage mechanism. The lowering of the clip
> presses the O-Ring at the top of the cap down against the angled wall of
> the filler neck, forming a more positive seal. With the clip up (and seal
> released) the cap is still held in, though it is loose. The cap is
> released by turning the clip 45 degrees, at which point the caps easily
> lifts out (as opposed to the force required to pull out the standard cap).
> The deluxe caps also can come with a key lock which is hidden below the
> clip.
>
> Overall all I am very impressed with these caps and very glad I bought
> them. Besides the fact they are just better, I think the ability to lock
> them is valuable in this day and age (unfortunately). Yes, they cost
> significantly more than the standard caps, but compared to the amount of
> money we are sinking into these aircraft . . . . . . . .
>
> I will be uploading some pictures into the Photoshare which hopefully will
> clarify some of my babble from above!!
>
> Have fun all,
> Scott Lewis
> RV-10 40172
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
John, I recommend that you buy the wiring plans from Van. It answers
most of your questions and shows one way of wiring the plane along
with wire sizes, penetrations and attachments. It is a good place to
start. You will then need to plan your avionics' wiring and any
additional equipment to go along with it.
Rob.
On Dec 7, 2005, at 10:48 PM, John Testement wrote:
> I am about to close up the fuse floor panels and want to be sure I
> have taken care of all wiring that needs t be planned for now. My
> current plan is to run a Vans 3/4" conduit down each side from the
> tail to the mid side panel for misc. wiring (autopilot, trim, nav
> light, +12s, static air lines, etc) and any future additions. I
> plan to run the strobe wires and com antenna wires separately. And
> I plan to run the battery + and ground to the firewall with 2awg
> Perihelion cable through separate bushings.
>
> What do I need to be aware of in general? Which side of the fuse
> should the main battery wires go? On what side of the firewall will
> the starter contactor go? What route should the wires take through
> the side panels (along the top, bottom, other)? Where should I
> route the wires to? - will there be connectors for all panel wires
> or should I leave some of them long to go right to the instrument/
> radio? If connectors are used between the panel, where will they go
> and what type is preferred? Do I go over or through the main center
> spar? What else can you tell me that will help at this stage? Any
> photos would be great.
>
> Thank you in advance for answers to any or all of the questions (I
> know this is a long list)
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Finishing QB wings, working on QB fuse
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Deluxe Fuel Caps |
G'day,
Chris wrote:
> So why do we need locking fuel caps? Is it for contamination concerns?
> People stealing the cap for their own plane? I just have never heard of
> fuel/tank related thievery.
> -ChrisL
> #40072
I have, several times.
1) When this was discussed a few weeks ago one guy came back with the
story of some idiots putting sugar into fuel tanks.
2) A few years ago a Lancair was parked at the field I learnt to fly
from. Overnight someone came and drained the tanks, probably into their
car. Next day the owner and a friend headed off in the early morning,
ran out of fuel on climb out, crashed and died. Sure, they should have
checked the tanks in their pre-flight, but it happened none-the-less.
3) I have also heard from other pilots of fuel disappearing from their
tanks overnight. Even if nothing nasty happens, I would be pissed if
someone stole $300+ of fuel from my tanks.
In my mind, it is cheap insurance. You only need to save one tank worth
of fuel for the caps to have paid for themselves. The same question
could be asked - Why do you have locking fuel caps on your car?
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
The common NACA duct on the side of fuselage on planes such as Mooneys
is behind the cowl, opposite where your knee is located, providing
cooling air to pilot on one side and radios from the other side. A temp
probe in either one will run about 5 degrees high, and they are at least
1 ft behind the firewall location. Apparently engine cooling air coming
out the bottom hugs the sides of the fuselage pretty well.
John W. Cox wrote:
>
>Kelly, not all NACA ducts on Certifieds are mounted on engine cowls, so
>are you saying it could be compressed air generated heat by the faster
>airflow? Raytheon has just a few models and I've flown a few Cessnas
>where that was not the case. Maybe it's those extra knots generated by
>using a less drag inducing appendage than a 1950's style pickup air
>duct.
>
>John - KUAO
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
>McMullen
>Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:24 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: OAT
>
>
>Every NACA duct mounted OAT on certified fuselages has resulted in
>excessively high readings, due to engine heat.
>
>Robert G. Wright wrote:
>
>
>
>>I'm not an aeronautical eng guy, but don't NACA vents work off the
>>Bernoulli principle? If so, when the air gets "vacuumed" into the
>>vent, the pressure and temperature both decrease, which would cause a
>>lower than actual reading. Of course, maybe it would offset the
>>friction heating of the air passing across the airframe at the higher
>>speeds that the RV-10 goes...
>>
>>Replies would be great, because that's a nice out-of-the-way place to
>>put the probe if it's sound.
>>
>>Rob
>>
>>#392
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Deluxe Fuel Caps |
Sorry to be the devil's advocate - I do like the idea of locking fuel caps
as a deterrent, but if someone really wanted to steal your fuel, they would
simply use the fuel drain.
Indran Chelvanayagam
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Lewis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Deluxe Fuel Caps
G'day,
Chris wrote:
> So why do we need locking fuel caps? Is it for contamination concerns?
> People stealing the cap for their own plane? I just have never heard
> of fuel/tank related thievery.
> -ChrisL
> #40072
I have, several times.
1) When this was discussed a few weeks ago one guy came back with the story
of some idiots putting sugar into fuel tanks.
2) A few years ago a Lancair was parked at the field I learnt to fly from.
Overnight someone came and drained the tanks, probably into their car. Next
day the owner and a friend headed off in the early morning, ran out of fuel
on climb out, crashed and died. Sure, they should have checked the tanks in
their pre-flight, but it happened none-the-less.
3) I have also heard from other pilots of fuel disappearing from their tanks
overnight. Even if nothing nasty happens, I would be pissed if someone
stole $300+ of fuel from my tanks.
In my mind, it is cheap insurance. You only need to save one tank worth of
fuel for the caps to have paid for themselves. The same question could be
asked - Why do you have locking fuel caps on your car?
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Deluxe Fuel Caps |
>In my mind, it is cheap insurance. You only need to save one
>tank worth of fuel for the caps to have paid for themselves.
>The same question could be asked - Why do you have locking fuel
> caps on your car?
While locking gas tank caps can be useful in preventing someone from putting something
(malicious) INTO the tank, unless you can also get locking fuel drains,
is seems futile from preventing someone from taking fuel OUT of the tanks.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Deluxe Fuel Caps |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
IF it stops someone from putting something bad in the tank then it is
worth it. As for preventing theft, yes you can use the sump, which would
be slow, unless you take out the valve. But more importantly, most
people walking around don't know about sumping the fuel, it is a
specific thing you have been exposed too, think back to before you flew,
did you know there was another way to get fuel out of a plane other than
the gas cap? Sure after you were shown, or watched someone else, but the
general public really does not know about it, so you would minimize the
number of people who would know how to steal it.
Just my .20
Dan
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Deluxe Fuel Caps
>In my mind, it is cheap insurance. You only need to save one
>tank worth of fuel for the caps to have paid for themselves.
>The same question could be asked - Why do you have locking fuel
> caps on your car?
While locking gas tank caps can be useful in preventing someone from
putting something (malicious) INTO the tank, unless you can also get
locking fuel drains, is seems futile from preventing someone from taking
fuel OUT of the tanks.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Overhead Lights & Speaker |
Nothing, but when you figure it out, please send pictures!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Lights & Speaker
What is/has everyone done for overhead lighting and a speaker?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Overhead Lights & Speaker |
I put the red disco ball slightly behind the passenger and the blue disco
ball between the rear seats. The 16 inch JBL speakers are going to be
mounted in the rear deck. Trying to figure out where to put the Dual 1219
turntable with the Mark 5 Type II improved cartridge.
Bob K
RV104BK
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_8 Message came from 65.167.220-223.x network
* 0.1 HTML_50_60 BODY: Message is 50% to 60% HTML
* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Dimpling table question |
OK, I've got 2 tables. They measure about 2' X 5 ' each. I plan on building a
little structure between the two of them to hold my dimpler so the sides of the
skins are supported when dimpling. My question is this: is it better to have
the dimplier centered in the middle of the tables or just put on the edge of
the table??? maybe it doesn't matter at all. I just want to do it right the
first time.
Any opinions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevator deburred ready for dimpling
Wings still in their boxes on the floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling table question |
Bill and Tami
I recommend putting the dimpler between the two tables with the male dimple die
on the bottom and the. top surface of the male die level with the table surfaces.
You definitely want to have the skins supported for some distance on either
side of the dimpler to avoid skin distortions. With the Avery C-Frame, I
also always hold the female die firmly down against the skin before striking the
shaft. Thinner skins especially, are subject to unwanted distortion if not
resting on the male die when struck.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
OK, I've got 2 tables. They measure about 2' X 5 ' each. I plan on building
a little structure between the two of them to hold my dimpler so the sides of
the skins are supported when dimpling. My question is this: is it better to
have the dimplier centered in the middle of the tables or just put on the edge
of the table??? maybe it doesn't matter at all. I just want to do it right
the first time.
Any opinions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevator deburred ready for dimpling
Wings still in their boxes on the floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dimpling table question |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
I actually put the entire dimpler in the middle of one of my tables,
then I can move other tables around it as I see fit. Now working on the
wings, I have 4 tables, and it's pretty handy. Makes it easier for some
of the bigger skins. And it's removable. I just drilled a hole for the
lower dimpling extension to come up from below, and it sets the die at a
nice height to work at. Some pics here...
http://supercj.bizland.com/archives/2005/07/elevators_3.html
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dean Van
Winkle
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
Bill and Tami
I recommend putting the dimpler between the two tables with the male
dimple die on the bottom and the. top surface of the male die level with
the table surfaces. You definitely want to have the skins supported for
some distance on either side of the dimpler to avoid skin distortions.
With the Avery C-Frame, I also always hold the female die firmly down
against the skin before striking the shaft. Thinner skins especially,
are subject to unwanted distortion if not resting on the male die when
struck.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william(at)gbta.net>
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
OK, I've got 2 tables. They measure about 2' X 5 ' each. I
plan on building a little structure between the two of them to hold my
dimpler so the sides of the skins are supported when dimpling. My
question is this: is it better to have the dimplier centered in the
middle of the tables or just put on the edge of the table??? maybe it
doesn't matter at all. I just want to do it right the first time.
Any opinions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevator deburred ready for dimpling
Wings still in their boxes on the floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling table question |
Bill,
Your centered design should work well, you will be swinging skins around a bunch
to be able to reach all the holes conveniently. You are definitely are going
to enjoy the dimpler you purchased it is so much nicer to use than clubbing
the skins with a hammer.
Bruce Case, #446
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
OK, I've got 2 tables. They measure about 2' X 5 ' each. I plan on building
a little structure between the two of them to hold my dimpler so the sides of
the skins are supported when dimpling. My question is this: is it better to
have the dimplier centered in the middle of the tables or just put on the edge
of the table??? maybe it doesn't matter at all. I just want to do it right
the first time.
Any opinions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevator deburred ready for dimpling
Wings still in their boxes on the floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling table question |
Here is a picture of mine.
It is a single table and it worked great as I set it up. You can see how the
VS opposite side skin is off the table and as I worked up the row of rivet holes
the opposite side skin slid along under the edge of the table.
Russ Daves
N710RV (RV-10 Reserved - Fuselage on main gear)
N65RV (RV-6A Sold)
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
OK, I've got 2 tables. They measure about 2' X 5 ' each. I plan on building
a little structure between the two of them to hold my dimpler so the sides of
the skins are supported when dimpling. My question is this: is it better to
have the dimplier centered in the middle of the tables or just put on the edge
of the table??? maybe it doesn't matter at all. I just want to do it right
the first time.
Any opinions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevator deburred ready for dimpling
Wings still in their boxes on the floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Baldwin <jamesbaldwin(at)dc.rr.com> |
RV10 guys -
The automotive racing world has been using accumulators for a long time
for both pre oiling before start and for temporary interuption of
pressure supply. Look at a Jeg's or smilar catalog and you'll see what
is avail. n electric selector or manual selector valve is your choice.
A long way from needing it but that is what I'll be doing for my Harmon
Rocket. JBB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Boone" <david555(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling table comments |
Great Legs!!! David Boone
----- Original Message -----
From: Russell Daves
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
Here is a picture of mine.
It is a single table and it worked great as I set it up. You can see how the
VS opposite side skin is off the table and as I worked up the row of rivet holes
the opposite side skin slid along under the edge of the table.
Russ Daves
N710RV (RV-10 Reserved - Fuselage on main gear)
N65RV (RV-6A Sold)
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 9:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
OK, I've got 2 tables. They measure about 2' X 5 ' each. I plan on building
a little structure between the two of them to hold my dimpler so the sides
of the skins are supported when dimpling. My question is this: is it better to
have the dimplier centered in the middle of the tables or just put on the edge
of the table??? maybe it doesn't matter at all. I just want to do it right
the first time.
Any opinions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevator deburred ready for dimpling
Wings still in their boxes on the floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling table question |
Bill,
I would think putting the dimpler in between the tables will work fine 90% of the
time. You will quickly find ways to manuver the skin as necessary. As long
as you have one of the models of the dimpler with a 2 foot or so throat you'll
have no problems.
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 09, 2005 10:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling table question
OK, I've got 2 tables. They measure about 2' X 5 ' each. I plan on building
a little structure between the two of them to hold my dimpler so the sides of
the skins are supported when dimpling. My question is this: is it better to
have the dimplier centered in the middle of the tables or just put on the edge
of the table??? maybe it doesn't matter at all. I just want to do it right
the first time.
Any opinions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevator deburred ready for dimpling
Wings still in their boxes on the floor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I've been considering this also once I get to that point. The AMSOIL oilier looks fairly compact, but I can't find a weight for it. <http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 fuselage inventorying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Baldwin
Subject: RV10-List: pre oilers
RV10 guys -
The automotive racing world has been using accumulators for a long time for both
pre oiling before start and for temporary interuption of pressure supply. Look
at a Jeg's or smilar catalog and you'll see what is avail. n electric selector
or manual selector valve is your choice.
A long way from needing it but that is what I'll be doing for my Harmon Rocket.
JBB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
This seems like a great idea, I do have one question though. How do folks
plan to plumb a pre-oiler? I vaguely remember having to modify the sump on
the IO-540 C4B5 on my Skybolt for an inverted system. It seems like
something similar would be necessary unless you are using a remote oil
filter. Another concern would be where to feed the pressurized oil (again
in the absence of a remote oil filter setup). For an inverted system you
are also tied into the oil breather which I suspect would not be a useful
place to push oil prior to start and I don't know if pumping back into the
oil sump would do much good either.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: pre oilers
I've been considering this also once I get to that point. The AMSOIL oilier
looks fairly compact, but I can't find a weight for it.
<http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 fuselage inventorying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Baldwin
Subject: RV10-List: pre oilers
RV10 guys -
The automotive racing world has been using accumulators for a long time for
both pre oiling before start and for temporary interuption of pressure
supply. Look at a Jeg's or smilar catalog and you'll see what is avail. n
electric selector or manual selector valve is your choice.
A long way from needing it but that is what I'll be doing for my Harmon
Rocket. JBB
This Month --
Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
on
www.buildersbooks.com,
www.kitlog.com, and
www.homebuilthelp.com!
">http://www.matronics.com/contri
bution
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Depending on the system you may, or may not, need to do something special. If
you look at the AMSOIL model it is a simple accumulator tank that is charged from
the system oil pressure and then released by a solenoid through the same line.
This would allow you to tap in anyplace where there is an unused port, oil
cooler line, or even the oil pressure sender.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage inventorying
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Marcus Cooper
Subject: RE: RV10-List: pre oilers
This seems like a great idea, I do have one question though. How do folks plan
to plumb a pre-oiler? I vaguely remember having to modify the sump on the IO-540
C4B5 on my Skybolt for an inverted system. It seems like something similar
would be necessary unless you are using a remote oil filter. Another concern
would be where to feed the pressurized oil (again in the absence of a remote
oil filter setup). For an inverted system you are also tied into the oil breather
which I suspect would not be a useful place to push oil prior to start
and I don't know if pumping back into the oil sump would do much good either.
Thanks,
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: pre oilers
I've been considering this also once I get to that point. The AMSOIL oilier looks fairly compact, but I can't find a weight for it. <http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 fuselage inventorying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Baldwin
Subject: RV10-List: pre oilers
RV10 guys -
The automotive racing world has been using accumulators for a long time for both
pre oiling before start and for temporary interuption of pressure supply. Look
at a Jeg's or smilar catalog and you'll see what is avail. n electric selector
or manual selector valve is your choice.
A long way from needing it but that is what I'll be doing for my Harmon Rocket.
JBB
This Month --
Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
on
www.buildersbooks.com,
www.kitlog.com, and
www.homebuilthelp.com!
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Scott Lewis ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Scott Lewis
Lists: RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List,Rocket-List
Subject: PiRep - Deluxe Fuel Caps
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv10@tpg.com.au.12.10.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Infinity Aerospace (of stick grip fame) has one (scroll down their site): http://www.infinityaerospace.com/
And Spruce has one: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/proluber.php
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: pre oilers
I've been considering this also once I get to that point. The AMSOIL oilier looks fairly compact, but I can't find a weight for it. <http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 fuselage inventorying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Baldwin
Subject: RV10-List: pre oilers
RV10 guys -
The automotive racing world has been using accumulators for a long time for both
pre oiling before start and for temporary interuption of pressure supply. Look
at a Jeg's or smilar catalog and you'll see what is avail. n electric selector
or manual selector valve is your choice.
A long way from needing it but that is what I'll be doing for my Harmon Rocket.
JBB
This Month --
Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
on
www.buildersbooks.com,
www.kitlog.com, and
www.homebuilthelp.com!
">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
RV10-List Email Forum -
more:
bsp;
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Anybody found the V speeds/glide ratio/emergency speeds for the 10. The search
of the archive revealed a bit of W&B but no info on V speeds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification |
No, but I just have to believe that it's right. I may try to squeeze
in a call to them this week to verify.....but right now it's
a *monday*....ouch.
Tim
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Did you ever get the answer to this?
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, December 07, 2005 6:14 AM
> To: RV10
> Subject: RV10-List: SilverHawk EX fuel servo verification
>
>
> This is a dumb question.
>
> From the page:
> http://www.precisionairmotive.com/silverhawkapplications.htm
>
> I see they have the standard and alternate rotation configurations
> for the fuel injection servo.
>
> I *think* I am correct that we need the standard configuration,
> where the Throttle rotates counterclockwise and the mixture
> rotates clockwise, since pushing and pulling the cables would
> seem to have the desired effect.
>
> But, on their site, they list option #2 the alternate rotation is
> "primarily aimed at Van's Aircraft RV installations", so I
> thought I'd at least question it. This isn't applicable in
> our situation, correct?
>
> I have mine hooked up, with the exception of the throttle that
> had too much travel. I should be getting the new cable I
> bought today, so I want to make sure I'm 100% verified
> so that I can bless all the parts as installed.
>
> PS: Van's never did address my short-throw throttle cable,
> so I bought a new one from them and will just send them the
> old one back with a merch. return form. So, the problem
> was not addressed.
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | finish kit question |
rigging instructions suggest trim should be left tab 0-32 down and right tab should
be 25 up to 35 down. Anybody done this? what's the reason?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
Looking at the Andair site it would seem that the new FS20f7F (http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/FS20-5&7.pdf) with a 6 inch extension would be the ideal choice for the RV-10. This valve has 90 deg travel between left and right tank and female fittings on the sides and bottom. This would be a drop in replacement for the Weatherhead valve Vans provides in the kit. With the extension, all you would need is an AN824 Tee on the bottom, one port of the tee to the filter and the other to the pump and you are done.
The FS20f3F would also work but has a 180 degree trave between left and right tank.
I plan on using the FS20f5F. My Fuselage is scheduled to arrive in two
weeks so I'm a ways off from that stage.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | alclad thickness |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
hey all -
i've got a quick question - how thick is the alclad on the skins? let's say hypothetically
that someone scuffed a skin with a scotchbrite pad and wished they
hadn't... can you polish it out back to the mirror finish? will that completely
remove the alclad corrosion protection? enquiring minds want to know...
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: finish kit question |
The -10 needs more up elevator trim than down (hence the more down trim movement).
Vans created the trim tab mixer to provide a differential control. I think at
one time they were going to try and connect one trim tab to the flaps hoping for
some "automatic" trim as flaps deployed. Somewhere along the development process
they tossed that idea out.
One thing you might check, I had the bolt on one of the control rods get pretty
close to the plate as it travelled through. I shortened a bolt just a hair but
a better idea would be to open up the hole just a little.
Pictures are attached.
You can run the trim motor using a 9 volt rectangular battery. Use the two wires
on the trim motor that do not have any color stripes on them. Reverse the
leads to reverse the travel.
Jim C
#40192
N312F
============================================================
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Date: 2005/12/12 Mon PM 07:56:34 EST
Subject: RV10-List: finish kit question
rigging instructions suggest trim should be left tab 0-32 down and right tab should
be 25 up to 35 down. Anybody done this? what's the reason?
============================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Almost a drop in replacement but there's a couple of key differences.
As you note, having the extension is critical to providing clearance for
the SCAT to the rear seat heat vents. Other difference is that when
plumbing the Weatherhead valve you have to cross over with the
connections (left tank to right side of valve). With the Andair the
left tank goes to the left side.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Subject: RV10-List: RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension
Looking at the Andair site it would seem that the new FS20f7F
(http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/FS20-5&7.pdf) with a 6 inch extension
would be the ideal choice for the RV-10. This valve has 90 deg travel
between left and right tank and female fittings on the sides and bottom.
This would be a drop in replacement for the Weatherhead valve Vans
provides in the kit. With the extension, all you would need is an AN824
Tee on the bottom, one port of the tee to the filter and the other to
the pump and you are done.
The FS20f3F would also work but has a 180 degree trave between left and
right tank. I plan on using the FS20f5F. My Fuselage is scheduled to
arrive in two weeks so I'm a ways off from that stage.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | interior painting |
I'm currently constructing the fuselage and a few questions come to mind
about painting.
Is it best to paint items that will be visible during their initial
construction or wait until the whole fuselage is constructed?
How tough is it to get at all angles to paint when the whole thing is
constructed?
Regarding the firewall..since it is stainless, no paint, correct?
Also no paint for the recess on the firewall?
Thanks for your advice in advance.
Sean S. Blair
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: interior painting |
See my comments below:
rob kermanj
rv10es(at)earthlink.net
On Dec 13, 2005, at 1:41 AM, Sean Blair wrote:
>
>
> I=92m currently constructing the fuselage and a few questions come to
> mind about painting.
>
>
> Is it best to paint items that will be visible during their initial
> construction or wait until the whole fuselage is constructed?
I chose to paint every piece before assembly. I realize that some
will get scratched during construction and need fixing. I thought
this might save me time at the end of the project when I may be more
anxious to fly. also it looks a little better.
>
>
> How tough is it to get at all angles to paint when the whole thing
> is constructed?
In my RV6, I painted the interior at the end of the project. I used
a very good quality (professional) air brush and got acceptable
results. An airbrush allows you to really get into nooks and
crannies. I now prefer to paint each piece prior to assembly.
>
>
> Regarding the firewall=85.since it is stainless, no paint, correct?
No paint on the fire wall is needed.
>
>
> Also no paint for the recess on the firewall?
Yep.
>
>
> Thanks for your advice in advance.
>
>
> Sean S. Blair
>
> #40225
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | alclad thickness |
From memory, the Alclad is 10% of the total thickness ==> .025" skin would
have .0025" of pure Aluminum on each surface. If using the more aggressive
wheel (that Van recommends), I prime any spots that the wheel skuffs. If
using the softer wheel that is probably not necessary. However you will not
want to be trying to bring every little scratch back to a polish, when you
are done you will be scuffing it all up to paint it anyway.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Johnston [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf
Of Chris Johnston
Subject: RE: RV10-List: alclad thickness
hey all -
i've got a quick question - how thick is the alclad on the skins? let's say
hypothetically that someone scuffed a skin with a scotchbrite pad and wished
they hadn't... can you polish it out back to the mirror finish? will that
completely remove the alclad corrosion protection? enquiring minds want to
know...
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
That "-T" designation, is that the new 90 degree EF20 fitting from Andair or just
AN821 elbow?
See EF20 here: http://www.andair.co.uk/pages/fittings.shtml
While I am definitely sure that a FEMALE fitting is the way to go for the lower,
I'm still not sure which way to go with the side fittings, male or female.
I'd like to be able to minimize the number of AN fittings I'll have to add. These
new 90 degree (EF20) fittings turned rearward with the valve lowered and
a 6 inch extension may be ideal. Not sure there is enough room for this fitting
turned rearward with the FS20f7, but with the FS20f5 it would require only
a single 90 degree bend of the fuel lines (2 90 deg. bend with the FS20f3) into
the valve with only an AN818 nut and AN819 sleeve. So I guess I'm looking for
a FS20f5T or an FS20f5F.
<http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/9XOther/RV10FuelPlumb.pdf>
>I have the FS20X7-T that is in a "Y" configuration. Not sure
>of the fit yet as it is different from Tim and Bob's. It has
>the two 90's on it sending all lines straight down in almost the
> same footprint as the trim ring.
>
>Michael Sausen
>-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
>
>
>>Subject: RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension
>>
>>
>>Looking at the Andair site it would seem that the new FS20f7F
>>http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/FS20-5&7.pdf) with a 6 inch extension
>>would be the ideal choice for the RV-10. This valve has 90 deg
>>travel between left and right tank and female fittings on the sides
>>and bottom. This would be a drop in replacement for the Weatherhead
>>valve Vans provides in the kit. With the extension, all you would
>>need is an AN824 Tee on the bottom, one port of the tee to the
>>filter and the other to the pump and you are done.
>>
>>The FS20f3F would also work but has a 180 degree trave between
>>left and right tank. I plan on using the FS20f5F. My Fuselage is
>>scheduled to arrive in two weeks so I'm a ways off from that stage.
>>
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | exterior paint over akzo epoxy primer? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
Are there any gotchas associated with painting an exterior finish over
akzo epoxy primer? Couldn't find anything on the technical data sheet
for akzo and wondered if anyone had experience with doing it?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: alclad thickness |
Chris:
The clad coating is on the order of a few thousands, I believe it varies
with the thickness of the base alloy. It only takes a few aggressive rubs
of a scotch bright to remove. Try it on a piece of scrape; if you look
closely you can see when the cladding has been removed and the base metal
appears with a slightly different color. The metal can still be polished.
It would take some more work but I doubt that it would be noticeable on a
polished surface. Think of all the old airplanes that have been polished
out. Many never had cladding or it has long since been polished away. If
corrosion is a concern the area can be treated and primed. Most paint shops
in the prep process will scotch bright the whole airplane, not so much so as
to remove the cladding completely but to provide mechanical adhesion for the
primer. If the airplane is going to be painted I would not put any kind of
metal polish on it. The silicone and other chemicals in polishes are
difficult to remove particularly around rivets or seams and will create
problems for the painter.
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: alclad thickness
hey all -
i've got a quick question - how thick is the alclad on the skins? let's say
hypothetically that someone scuffed a skin with a scotchbrite pad and wished
they hadn't... can you polish it out back to the mirror finish? will that
completely remove the alclad corrosion protection? enquiring minds want to
know...
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Looks like another -10 flew. Is there a list anywhere of the flying A/C?
Rene'
N423CF
40322
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | finish kit question |
Give you more nose up trim than nose down trim. If you are light and at the
forward CG, you will need all of the elevator you can get to flare. You
will need all of that nose up trim to take the pressure off. You don't,
however need as much nose-down trim, so the left trim tab stops at 0 when
you trim nose down.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Subject: RV10-List: finish kit question
rigging instructions suggest trim should be left tab 0-32 down and right tab
should be 25 up to 35 down. Anybody done this? what's the reason?
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes on the
flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit and there's not
enough room to get the pins through the holes using the close quarters dimple
dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when I get it short enough to
make it through the holes on the flanges, it's not long enough for the "pop"
rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Hmm, don't recall for sure but I'm thinking this may be a location for the vice
grips or pop rivet dimpler.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes on the
flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit and there's not
enough room to get the pins through the holes using the close quarters dimple
dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when I get it short enough to
make it through the holes on the flanges, it's not long enough for the "pop"
rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
I used a short pin and two pairs of vise grips. I put the close quarter
dimpler in place and squeezed 180 degrees apart. Worked pretty good.
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes on
the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit and
there's not enough room to get the pins through the holes using the close
quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when I get it
short enough to make it through the holes on the flanges, it's not long
enough for the "pop" rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
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* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
I don't have the vice grip dimplers. Might have to get a pair. However, I cannot
get the pop rivet dimplers to work because the pins are too long to get through
the holes. I'll keep trying.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
Hmm, don't recall for sure but I'm thinking this may be a location for the vice
grips or pop rivet dimpler.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 4:00 PM
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes on the
flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit and there's
not enough room to get the pins through the holes using the close quarters dimple
dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when I get it short enough
to make it through the holes on the flanges, it's not long enough for the "pop"
rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
I used the pop-rivet dimpler... it takes some time to work the nail
in place, but it will work.
On Dec 14, 2005, at 1:59 PM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3
> holes on the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too
> large to fit and there's not enough room to get the pins through
> the holes using the close quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening
> one of the pins but when I get it short enough to make it through
> the holes on the flanges, it's not long enough for the "pop" rivet
> tool to grasp!!!!!
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137 Elevators
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
I used the vice grips dimpler included with the Avery rv builder tool
kit. It wasn't too long ago for me, so it's still fresh in my mind....
cj
-----Original Message-----
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
Hmm, don't recall for sure but I'm thinking this may be a location for
the vice grips or pop rivet dimpler.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes
on the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit
and there's not enough room to get the pins through the holes using the
close quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when
I get it short enough to make it through the holes on the flanges, it's
not long enough for the "pop" rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
Awhile back there was discussion on the Cogsdill
Burraway #40 being less than useful. I agree that as
delivered, it countersinks the backside of the hole.
If you turn the allen head set screw roughly 1 turn
out it improves, but is still not great.
I decided it is most useful as a hand tool and plan on
mounting in a wooden file handle. Key advantage is you
can deburr both sides and deburr the backside of holes
otherwise inaccessible. As a hand tool, you can gently
deburr the backside without countersinking. I'm happy
with the results this way.
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
Bill, I did all but the last 1 or 2 w/ the vice grip dimpler, I made my
own from a standard set of vice grips and used my #40 dies see pics:
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2022%20Flaps/slides/DSC01727.html
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2022%20Flaps/slides/DSC01728.html
The vice grips won't fit the last hole (two?) so I used the pop rivet
close quarters, if you bend the flange open you can get the pop tool in,
then rebend when finished.
Deems Davis # 406
Wing Flaps finished
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I don't have the vice grip dimplers. Might have to get a pair.
> However, I cannot get the pop rivet dimplers to work because the pins
> are too long to get through the holes. I'll keep trying.
>
> Bill
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 14, 2005 4:41 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
>
> Hmm, don't recall for sure but I'm thinking this may be a location
> for the vice grips or pop rivet dimpler.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill
> and Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 14, 2005 4:00 PM
> *To:* RV10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
>
> For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3
> holes on the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too
> large to fit and there's not enough room to get the pins through
> the holes using the close quarters dimple dies. I tried
> shortening one of the pins but when I get it short enough to make
> it through the holes on the flanges, it's not long enough for the
> "pop" rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137 Elevators
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
You can trim the pins a bit... so that they'll get through the hole
and leave you with enough pin to still grip it with the pop rivet tool.
That's how I did it... though I recently though that I could have
trimmed the tab down a bit to decrease the angle and make getting the
pop rivet pin in more easily.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Torquing wing nuts...
On Dec 14, 2005, at 4:14 PM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I don't have the vice grip dimplers. Might have to get a pair.
> However, I cannot get the pop rivet dimplers to work because the
> pins are too long to get through the holes. I'll keep trying.
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 4:41 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
>
> Hmm, don't recall for sure but I'm thinking this may be a location
> for the vice grips or pop rivet dimpler.
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
> Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 4:00 PM
> To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
>
> For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3
> holes on the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too
> large to fit and there's not enough room to get the pins through
> the holes using the close quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening
> one of the pins but when I get it short enough to make it through
> the holes on the flanges, it's not long enough for the "pop" rivet
> tool to grasp!!!!!
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137 Elevators
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
You can make a female die from a piece of 1/8 or thicker flat or angle iron by
countersinking it with your machine countersink. Drill a #40 hole close to the
edge of the angle so it will fit into the tip rib then use the male dimple die
with a mallet to dimple. If you clamp the angle to your work bench then center
the hole in the tip rib over the countersunk area you can get an adequate
dimple.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
use the pop rivet dimples like you are talking about, but use a flat
nose vise grip to compress it, or a cheap c-clamp ground down, just make
sure to do it gradual and keep it lined up with a very stubby nail for
guiding, or you could buy the vise grip dimplers and grind down the tip,
like I did!
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes
on the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit
and there's not enough room to get the pins through the holes using the
close quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when
I get it short enough to make it through the holes on the flanges, it's
not long enough for the "pop" rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edward Hershberger <elhershb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
Cleaveland tools has a new item, the _Tight Fit Dimpling Fixture_.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=DIE4263DF
You also have to use the male dimple die. This was made just for this
kind of problem, it looks like it will work just fine.
Ed
#40430
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bill and
> Tami Britton
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 14, 2005 5:00 PM
> *To:* RV10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
>
> For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3
> holes on the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large
> to fit and there's not enough room to get the pins through the holes
> using the close quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening one of the
> pins but when I get it short enough to make it through the holes on
> the flanges, it's not long enough for the "pop" rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't look
very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in my
building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin, after
a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know what
you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and see
how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big the
gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Mate oh my get someone to show you how to do it.......no offence but it looks like
an elephant has done it.
My opinion only but I would get a new skin and get an experienced builder over
to show you how.
Now don't get down about it that's why Vans gets you to build the tail first so
if you have a stuff up the part is easily and cheaply replaced.
So get help and move on
good luck
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 5:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in
my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Yes. You did ruin your skin. It is not too late for rest of your
project though. Get some help from an experienced builder in your area.
rob kermanj
rv10es(at)earthlink.net
On Dec 15, 2005, at 1:02 AM, Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and
> it doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge
> rolling process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much
> pressure at all and the first skin, after a single pass, turned
> out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know what you think.
> Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and see
> how it looks.
>
> Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm
> wondering how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry
> about rolling the edges on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs |
There is a tip on doing this at
http://www.experimentalaero.com/Builders%20Tips.htm
It's the method I used and they came out great.
Tom Gesele
#473 - Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2005 5:00 PM
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dimpling flanges on E-903 tip ribs
For those that have gone before me, how did you dimple the last 3 holes on
the flanges of the E-903 tip ribs. The squeezer is too large to fit and
there's not enough room to get the pins through the holes using the close
quarters dimple dies. I tried shortening one of the pins but when I get it
short enough to make it through the holes on the flanges, it's not long
enough for the "pop" rivet tool to grasp!!!!!
Bill Britton
RV-10 #40137 Elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Good morning Bill,Hugo here ,we are at the same stage,order another skin,now you
have a nice piece to practice ,the method I use at first and was OK,set the
skin ,in the edge of the table or smothing relative sharp, set the skin 1/4 inc
out of the border ,put a leather glove and gently pass your thumb over the edge
,many times ,until you see a bend,you don't have to really bend, need only
a deflection ,wich will match the other side ,I order the tool with the two rollers
but is to deep,very closed to the dimples,unfortunaly I didn't try first
,then I have to use in all four elev. skins.If I chop some materials from the
rollers may be will became a godd tool,any way if you use it be carefull it
tend to deviate from straigth line and you will produce a bend out of line ,and
will not be possible to dissimulate ,use the glove and your felling,you will
see,is work.
Hugo
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
>
> From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
> Date: 2005/12/15 Thu AM 01:02:32 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
>
> Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in
my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
>
> Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
>
> Bill
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4" |
List,
FYI, Tom Green @ Vans says 1/4" clearance between the sump and engine
mount is adequate. I had just under that in my installation (C4B5), so
I sent mine in to be modified.
My Lycoming parts manual for the narrow deck IO-540 says the C4B5 and
D4A5 use the same part number for the sump (LW-13901). Does anybody
know if the wide deck uses the same sump part number?
I'm finishing the overhaul of my elderly IO-540. It's been a neat
experience. If you have a mentor and the interest, I recommend it.
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 09:59:18 -0800
From: Tom Green <tomg(at)vansaircraft.com>
Tim, Bruce was a little high on his estimate... our engineering staff
would be happy with 1/4" . The motion in that location is not going
make contact possible.
On another note however, the D4A5 sumps seem different than
some other sumps in that area... we have close to 3/8" on every
D4A5 installation we have witnessed... while our original (410RV)
only has about 1/4"...
On the other hand, now is the time if you are going to lay awake at
night worrying over it...
Old Tom
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Send reply to: Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu
Subject: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
Tom,
I've got less than 1/4" between my RV-10 engine mount and the
IO-540-C4B5 sump. Per Bruce's email (attached), it appears 1/2" is
desired. When I spoke to Ken on the phone today he told me that 1/4" is
more than enough. When I brought up Bruce's email, Ken said I have the
option to send the mount in and have the curved bar welded on. To be on
the safe side, I'm going to do that.
Does Vans have a position on the minimum clearance one should look for?
Thanks,
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 15:56:04 -0500
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
least a few parties that this applies to.
I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
-------
Tim,
I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer(at)vansaircraft.com
--------
So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4" |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
Tim,
The wide deck does use the same part numbered sump.
Allen Barrett
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance - 1/4"
List,
FYI, Tom Green @ Vans says 1/4" clearance between the sump and engine
mount is adequate. I had just under that in my installation (C4B5), so
I sent mine in to be modified.
My Lycoming parts manual for the narrow deck IO-540 says the C4B5 and
D4A5 use the same part number for the sump (LW-13901). Does anybody
know if the wide deck uses the same sump part number?
I'm finishing the overhaul of my elderly IO-540. It's been a neat
experience. If you have a mentor and the interest, I recommend it.
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
Date: Wed, 14 Dec 2005 09:59:18 -0800
From: Tom Green <tomg(at)vansaircraft.com>
Tim, Bruce was a little high on his estimate... our engineering staff
would be happy with 1/4" . The motion in that location is not going
make contact possible.
On another note however, the D4A5 sumps seem different than
some other sumps in that area... we have close to 3/8" on every
D4A5 installation we have witnessed... while our original (410RV)
only has about 1/4"...
On the other hand, now is the time if you are going to lay awake at
night worrying over it...
Old Tom
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Send reply to: Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu
Subject: Engine Mount Clearance (RV-10)
Tom,
I've got less than 1/4" between my RV-10 engine mount and the
IO-540-C4B5 sump. Per Bruce's email (attached), it appears 1/2" is
desired. When I spoke to Ken on the phone today he told me that 1/4" is
more than enough. When I brought up Bruce's email, Ken said I have the
option to send the mount in and have the curved bar welded on. To be on
the safe side, I'm going to do that.
Does Vans have a position on the minimum clearance one should look for?
Thanks,
Tim
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Clearance issue
Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 15:56:04 -0500
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
I thought I'd pass this along, because I know that there are at
least a few parties that this applies to.
I sent Van's a note asking about the required clearance on the
rear crossbar of the RV-10 Engine Mount. Mine is between
1/16" and 1/8". A piece of .063 does fit thru the gap, and
a piece of .125 does not. Here is their reply:
-------
Tim,
I'm sorry to report that the tube on your mount that is to close to
the sump must be moved. You can cut it off and re-weld it yourself
or return the mount to us and we will do it. There should be finger
clearance between the tube and the sump, about 1/2" should do it.
Bruce Reynolds
brucer(at)vansaircraft.com
--------
So, I guess I have a project to do before I can continue. I'm very
glad I haven't hooked up my cabling yet. Question: Is this a
weld that you would trust your local welder with, or not?
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
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| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin to the AEX
wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can see in the pics
there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it possible to get this out??
Another question is, if I decide to keep this skin does it need further edge
rolling (more would probably make it worse unless I could just use the seamers
and put a super small "bend" in it)? Vans mentioned gluing it to the wedge.
How would that affect it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then probably
order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet in
my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on the
elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
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* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
OOPS forgot to attach the pics.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin to the
AEX wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can see in the pics
there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it possible to get this out??
Another question is, if I decide to keep this skin does it need further edge
rolling (more would probably make it worse unless I could just use the seamers
and put a super small "bend" in it)? Vans mentioned gluing it to the wedge.
How would that affect it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then probably
order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 1:03 AM
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet
in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first skin,
after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let me know
what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and
see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how big
the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges on
the elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
| From: | "Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk)" <BSchroeder(at)uta.cog.ut.us> |
I had issues with the rudder. I just ordered new skins and they weren't
that expensive in the grand scheme of things. You can probably use the
old ones, but as soon as you're done assembling them you'll probably
wish that you had gone ahead and ordered new.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin
to the AEX wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can
see in the pics there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it
possible to get this out?? Another question is, if I decide to keep
this skin does it need further edge rolling (more would probably make it
worse unless I could just use the seamers and put a super small "bend"
in it)? Vans mentioned gluing it to the wedge. How would that affect
it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then
probably order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight
and it doesn't look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge
rolling process yet in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much
pressure at all and the first skin, after a single pass, turned out
wavy. Check out the picture and let me know what you think. Tomorrow
I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge wedge and see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm
wondering how big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about
rolling the edges on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Comcast" <kenbpeck(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: deburring and primer prep |
Rick,
Great idea on the spray bottle. I do have a question though... If I remember
the instructions that came w/ the alumiprep and alodine, if using a bath, you
dilute the solutions w/ water, but if applying directly, you were to apply full
strength. When you use the spray bottle, are you diluting the both the alumiprep
and the alodine the same ratios as it calls for in the bath?
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: deburring and primer prep
Bill,
I have had great luck with Alumaprep and a red Scothbrite pad. It cleans the
parts easily and once you rinse it off and it dries it is ready for Alodine or
primer. The Alumaprep comes in gallons and you dilute it with water. I keep a
spray bottle, spray the parts and scrub with the pad then rinse, works great.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
I think you will regret not getting new skins. Even if the fix works
out you will always know about any imperfection. Like another poster
said, in the grand scheme of things the new skins are not that expensive.
I like Cleaveland's edge forming tool
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=56>. It is
not cheep at $39, but it is a quality tool that works well.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Bill,
Not sure what tool you are using, but if you use the Avery tool and gently
move along the edge in repeated passes you will end up with a nice small
bend in the skins. Did your rudder turn out OK as that is the same process?
Bruce Case
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
I've been very happy with the way the edge rolling looks when the parts are
put together. I took a few pics of my tank edge to share for what it's
worth. By the way, I practice anything I'm not familiar with on scrap before
I try it on the kit part$.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | The Night Before Christmas |
You've undoubtedly seen this before?
The Night Before Christmas - Aviation Style
===============================================
'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the ramp, Not an airplane was
stirring, not even a Champ.
The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care, In hopes that come
morning, they all would be there.
The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots, With gusts from
two-forty at 39 knots.
I slumped at the fuel desk, now finally caught up, And settled down
comfortably, resting my butt.
When the radio lit up with noise and with chatter, I turned up the scanner
to see what was the matter.
A voice clearly heard over static and snow, Called for clearance to land at
the airport below.
He barked his transmission so lively and quick, I'd have sworn that the call
sign he used was "St. Nick".
I ran to the panel to turn up the lights, The better to welcome this magical
flight.
He called his position, no room for denial, "St. Nicholas One, turnin' left
onto final."
And what to my wondering eyes should appear, But a Rutan-built sleigh, with
eight Rotax Reindeer!
With vectors to final, down the glideslope he came, As he passed all fixes,
he called them by name:
"Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
On Comet! On Cupid!" What pills was he takin'?
While controllers were sittin', and scratchin' their head, They phoned to my
office, and I heard it with dread, The message they left was both urgent and
dour:
"When Santa pulls in, have him please call the tower."
He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking, Then I heard "Left at
Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
He slowed to a taxi, turned off of three-oh And stopped on the ramp with a
"Ho, ho-ho-ho..."
He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk, I ran out to meet
him with my best set of chocks.
His red helmet and goggles were covered with frost And his beard was all
blackened from Reindeer exhaust.
His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale, And he puffed on a
pipe, but he didn't inhale.
His cheeks were all rosy and jiggled like jelly, His boots were as black as
a cropduster's belly.
He was chubby and plump, in his suit of bright red, And he asked me to "fill
it, with hundred low-lead."
He came dashing in from the snow-covered pump, I knew he was anxious for
drainin' the sump.
I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work, And I filled up the
sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
He came out of the restroom, and sighed in relief, Then he picked up a phone
for a Flight Service brief.
And I thought as he silently scribed in his log, These reindeer could land
in an eighth-mile fog.
He completed his pre-flight, from the front to the rear, Then he put on his
headset, and I heard him yell, "Clear!"
And laying a finger on his push-to-talk, He called up the tower for
clearance and squawk.
"Take taxiway Charlie, the southbound direction, Turn right three-two-zero
at pilot's discretion"
He sped down the runway, the best of the best, "Your traffic's a Grumman,
inbound from the west."
Then I heard him proclaim, as he climbed thru the night, "Merry Christmas to
all! I have traffic in sight."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
Bill,
I am sorry that happened to your skin. It really shows how good tools will
make or break the finish of an aircraft. I will give you our edge forming
tool and make sure you understand how to use it in exchange for a "customer
testimonial" the old skin, the old tool, and permission to use your photos.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
I think you will regret not getting new skins. Even if the fix works
out you will always know about any imperfection. Like another poster
said, in the grand scheme of things the new skins are not that expensive.
I like Cleaveland's edge forming tool
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=56>. It is
not cheep at $39, but it is a quality tool that works well.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
FWIW,
I have Mike's tool (Cleaveland) and it works like a champ, follow his instructions
and you won't be disappointed. It will trash out an edge too but it has a
fine adjustment and once you learn to set it up and pass it along the edge you'll
never use another edge tool.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "steve dinieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher than
i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express,
which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas. Residential
is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these freight companies
have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This is the first time
Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was ABF and much cheaper
but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher than
i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express,
which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
Sounds about right. I paid $900 to Chesapeake VA.
PJ
40032
steve dinieri wrote:
> i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered
> in november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it
> seems much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the
> past. What have you guys experienced as far as costs go???
> they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans
> discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway express, which
> means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
> ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
>
> steve dinieri
> n221rv
> n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
St. Nick arrived early rhis year. Just received the Hartzell prop. Opened
the box and retrieved the paperwork; will inspect this weekend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
I am so sorry to the rest of the list I meant for this to go directly to
Bill, but forgot to change the address. How embarrassing, sorry...
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Bill,
I am sorry that happened to your skin. It really shows how good tools will
make or break the finish of an aircraft. I will give you our edge forming
tool and make sure you understand how to use it in exchange for a "customer
testimonial" the old skin, the old tool, and permission to use your photos.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
I think you will regret not getting new skins. Even if the fix works
out you will always know about any imperfection. Like another poster
said, in the grand scheme of things the new skins are not that expensive.
I like Cleaveland's edge forming tool
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=56>. It is
not cheep at $39, but it is a quality tool that works well.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
The shipment was classified as containing plastic. According to trucking
companies, that raises the price.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: steve dinieri [mailto:capsteve(at)adelphia.net]
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems
much higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past.
What have you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to
collect 890 bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans
has a 60% discount with roadway express, which means the real retail
price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was
niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
Thanks for sending that question!!! I just finished the VS and
learned a lot from all the replies to your question. I am sure you helped many
builders.
Steve
Port St. Lucie, FL
772-475-5556
Sent from my Treo 600
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd4.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did I ruin my skin??? |
I bought the kit from a guy who already had the VS and rudder done. That's
why everybody's getting all these "beginner" questions from me and I'm
already on my elevators. I built the HS but there were no edges to bend on
it.
As for the skin, I went to a guy who is working on his 9th RV today and he
said it will work fine. The bends were not as bad as the picture looked.
I also took the remaining 3 skins along and got a lesson on edge rolling.
It's much easier with the palm-type roller with 2 nylon wheels than the long
handled roller I had. I rolled all 3 of them and they all turned out fine.
Thanks for all the help,
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
>
> Bill,
>
> Not sure what tool you are using, but if you use the Avery tool and gently
> move along the edge in repeated passes you will end up with a nice small
> bend in the skins. Did your rudder turn out OK as that is the same
> process?
>
> Bruce Case
>
>
> generous support!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
Bill,
I know you have received a ton of responses, but I too would recommend
going ahead with a new skin. You could probably make the other one work,
but the RV-10 is a great machine and I suspect you would regret the cosmetic
flaws down the road and months from now the minor setback will have been
forgotten. One thing I did not see in the other posts is that I recommend
rolling the edge prior to dimpling if at all possible. Then you don't have
to worry about the size of the rollers as Hugo mentioned and life is much
simpler. Can't say I always followed that advice, just wish I had.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Here's the last set of pictures I'll post of this. I clecoed the skin to
the AEX wedge and it flattened most of it out. However, as you can see in
the pics there's still some waviness in the middle. Is it possible to get
this out?? Another question is, if I decide to keep this skin does it need
further edge rolling (more would probably make it worse unless I could just
use the seamers and put a super small "bend" in it)? Vans mentioned gluing
it to the wedge. How would that affect it??
Now, I promise to lay this to rest. I'll wait for a few replies then
probably order the new skin!!!!!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Subject: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Tried rolling the trailing edge of the elevator skins tonight and it doesn't
look very good. I haven't had much luck with this edge rolling process yet
in my building. Anyway, I didn't apply much pressure at all and the first
skin, after a single pass, turned out wavy. Check out the picture and let
me know what you think. Tomorrow I'll try clecoing it to the trailing edge
wedge and see how it looks.
Has anybody just skipped this step in their bulding??? I'm wondering how
big the gap would actually be if I just didn't worry about rolling the edges
on the elevator skins??? Just curious.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
Shipping on our fuse to FL in October of '04 was $903, and to a business
address. You can probably save something by picking it up at the dock. It
is a really big box, even though it doesn't weight that much. I just got a
quote, however, to ship the same crate to Ecuador, South America by air
(including trucking to Miami, FL) and the price was around $1,320. Would
that be $903 for trucking and $417 for air, I think not. Something is not
right with Van's shipping company. It is possible to get quotes, I imagine,
from other shippers and have them pick it up at Van's. If anybody is
interested in being the first, please let us know how much you can save. I
imagine Van's would go for this. In fact, you could even just get quotes
based on the weight, size and contents and compare them. Better yet, get a
quote from the same shipping company and see what the real discount is. If
Van's gets a 60% discount, then they are getting that off the "listed
price", which nobody probably ever pays. Maybe they give the average Joe a
30% discount and then truly give Van's only a 30% discount off what anybody
would pay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas.
Residential is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these
freight companies have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This
is the first time Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was
ABF and much cheaper but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate
that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much
higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have
you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890
bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60%
discount with roadway express, which means the real retail price should be
1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
The rate is also based on the classification or category of the contents of the
shipment. It's different between being aircraft parts or assemblies or materials
(ie. sheet aluminum). I found this out getting my own quotes when considering
having my QB wings and fuse delivered to Roanoke, VA. At first I got a
very low quote (sorry, don't have it anymore) and I inquired about the difference.
That's when I found out about the category rating. Originally, I only gave
the size and weight of the crates to a person that was not familiar with the
origination address (Van's). When I called back, the person, who knew Van's
Aircraft, asked me about the contents and informed me about the change in rate.
I guess it may have to do with insurance or the value of the cargo (if it's
expensive, you can afford to pay more?).
I ended up saving money by using Tony Partain (Partain Transport Company) to deliver
without Van's crating them.
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 10:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Shipping on our fuse to FL in October of '04 was $903, and to a business address.
You can probably save something by picking it up at the dock. It is a really
big box, even though it doesn't weight that much. I just got a quote, however,
to ship the same crate to Ecuador, South America by air (including trucking
to Miami, FL) and the price was around $1,320. Would that be $903 for trucking
and $417 for air, I think not. Something is not right with Van's shipping
company. It is possible to get quotes, I imagine, from other shippers and
have them pick it up at Van's. If anybody is interested in being the first,
please let us know how much you can save. I imagine Van's would go for this.
In fact, you could even just get quotes based on the weight, size and contents
and compare them. Better yet, get a quote from the same shipping company and
see what the real discount is. If Van's gets a 60% discount, then they are
getting that off the "listed price", which nobody probably ever pays. Maybe
they give the average Joe a 30% discount and then truly give Van's only a 30%
discount off what anybody would pay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please
call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call
me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail
that will get to me in Ecuador.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 5:29 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas. Residential
is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these freight companies
have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This is the first time
Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was ABF and much cheaper
but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:57 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher
than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway
express, which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Using Tony Partain will be my method, too. I won't know anything for sure
until about February but I'll try to remember to post the Partain cost of
trucking my crateless QB wings and fuse to Enterprise, AL.
Rob Wright
#392
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
The rate is also based on the classification or category of the contents of
the shipment. It's different between being aircraft parts or assemblies or
materials (ie. sheet aluminum). I found this out getting my own quotes when
considering having my QB wings and fuse delivered to Roanoke, VA. At first
I got a very low quote (sorry, don't have it anymore) and I inquired about
the difference. That's when I found out about the category rating.
Originally, I only gave the size and weight of the crates to a person that
was not familiar with the origination address (Van's). When I called back,
the person, who knew Van's Aircraft, asked me about the contents and
informed me about the change in rate. I guess it may have to do with
insurance or the value of the cargo (if it's expensive, you can afford to
pay more?).
I ended up saving money by using Tony Partain (Partain Transport Company) to
deliver without Van's crating them.
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Shipping on our fuse to FL in October of '04 was $903, and to a business
address. You can probably save something by picking it up at the dock. It
is a really big box, even though it doesn't weight that much. I just got a
quote, however, to ship the same crate to Ecuador, South America by air
(including trucking to Miami, FL) and the price was around $1,320. Would
that be $903 for trucking and $417 for air, I think not. Something is not
right with Van's shipping company. It is possible to get quotes, I imagine,
from other shippers and have them pick it up at Van's. If anybody is
interested in being the first, please let us know how much you can save. I
imagine Van's would go for this. In fact, you could even just get quotes
based on the weight, size and contents and compare them. Better yet, get a
quote from the same shipping company and see what the real discount is. If
Van's gets a 60% discount, then they are getting that off the "listed
price", which nobody probably ever pays. Maybe they give the average Joe a
30% discount and then truly give Van's only a 30% discount off what anybody
would pay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas.
Residential is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these
freight companies have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This
is the first time Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was
ABF and much cheaper but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate
that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in
november. (there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much
higher than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have
you guys experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890
bucks and telling me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60%
discount with roadway express, which means the real retail price should be
1500 bucks or so. what say ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
I received my QB Fuselage and Wings at the end of November in the Dallas area using
Tony Partain. It cost me $2467. This price was about $500 cheaper than the
price that Van's said it would cost me if they had shipped it. When I originally
thought of using Tony there was a $1000 saving for a 10, the crating charge
at Van's, but Tony said his fuel cost have gone up. Not having to mess with
the uncrating and disposal was a plus for me.
Wayne Edgerton
RV10 -40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
Tony Partain charged me $2,758.00 for delivery of my QB Wings and
Fuselage to southern New Jersey back in July.
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
How can Tony Partain be contacted (phone, email or business address)? I have to
ship a cowl from WA to IL ...
Thanks
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 6:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
I received my QB Fuselage and Wings at the end of November in the Dallas area
using Tony Partain. It cost me $2467. This price was about $500 cheaper than
the price that Van's said it would cost me if they had shipped it. When I originally
thought of using Tony there was a $1000 saving for a 10, the crating charge
at Van's, but Tony said his fuel cost have gone up. Not having to mess with
the uncrating and disposal was a plus for me.
Wayne Edgerton
RV10 -40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Vans Pricing Increase question |
With Vans increasing prices on Jan 1st 3% will I get the 2005 price if I send them
a check before 12/31?
Is the price based on payment date or delivery date?
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Conti, Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
The shipment was classified as containing plastic. According to trucking companies,
that raises the price.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
From: steve dinieri [mailto:capsteve(at)adelphia.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 4:57 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher
than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway
express, which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Did I ruin my skin??? |
| From: | "Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk)" <BSchroeder(at)uta.cog.ut.us> |
That's ok, it meant a lot to me personally that AVERY TOOLS would stand
up to help a guy in his hour of need. Well done!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
I am so sorry to the rest of the list I meant for this to go directly to
Bill, but forgot to change the address. How embarrassing, sorry...
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen -
Work
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
Bill,
I am sorry that happened to your skin. It really shows how good tools
will
make or break the finish of an aircraft. I will give you our edge
forming
tool and make sure you understand how to use it in exchange for a
"customer
testimonial" the old skin, the old tool, and permission to use your
photos.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=EF60
Thanks,
Mike
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Did I ruin my skin???
I think you will regret not getting new skins. Even if the fix works
out you will always know about any imperfection. Like another poster
said, in the grand scheme of things the new skins are not that
expensive.
I like Cleaveland's edge forming tool
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/products.asp?dept=56>. It is
not cheep at $39, but it is a quality tool that works well.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Andair Fuel Valve extension |
Darrin,
Here's an oooold post of mine from before.
Currently, I can add a couple more points, too:
-----
Good question. Here's my answer:
1) The standard valve is very ugly
2) The andair valve has that engraved plate with left/right labeling
whereas you have to stick or paint on labels with the other.
3) The andair valve has a more positive detent feel for when you get
to the left or right position.
4) The andair valve has an OFF position that you can't get to by
just twisting the valve...you couldn't do it by accident.
I'll be flying with kids on 95% of my flights, and they
like to climb around and trade seats.
5) It's not really a retrofit difficulty...you have to build the
whole fuel line system anyway. The convolution is in the
STANDARD valve...you have to cross the fuel lines so the
Left line feeds the RIGH side of the valve, and vice versa.
This is an incredibly screwed up situation, which has already
led to one other builder mounting hsi standard valve backwards
just to make the convoluted routing simpler. The Andair valve
is a much more straightforward and logical plumbing job.
6) The plane is going to be > $150K....point #1 is just too much
to bear when the andair looks so nice. I'm not building a
flying lawn tractor.
** New
7) If you use the Andair valve with an extension to the handle,
it may be much easier to make clearance for your rear heat
SCAT tube to pass by that area...this is a real problem,
that to my knowledge has only been successfully addressed by
reducing the hose to 1.5". In addition, having the hose
packed in there makes it very vulnerable to being rubbed
through by the rudder cable, and it will heat your fuel valve.
8) With the Andair valve and extension, you'll have clearance
from your rudder cables for the valve fittings.
Latest news: If my order came in today, I may have my new
Andair valve, and my flex fuel hoses. If so, I'll be shooting
some photos this weekend. If not, we're still a few days
away.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
Schawang, Darrin wrote:
> What makes the Andair valve that much better than the one that comes
> with the kit from Van's?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shipping costs |
I have found that there is generally a horrendous charge for delivery to your home
or business. If you can pick it up at the shippers dock you can save quite
a bit. They wanted $175 to deliver my tail kit 2 miles.
Bruce Case, #40446
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 9:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Shipping on our fuse to FL in October of '04 was $903, and to a business address.
You can probably save something by picking it up at the dock. It is a really
big box, even though it doesn't weight that much. I just got a quote, however,
to ship the same crate to Ecuador, South America by air (including trucking
to Miami, FL) and the price was around $1,320. Would that be $903 for trucking
and $417 for air, I think not. Something is not right with Van's shipping
company. It is possible to get quotes, I imagine, from other shippers and
have them pick it up at Van's. If anybody is interested in being the first,
please let us know how much you can save. I imagine Van's would go for this.
In fact, you could even just get quotes based on the weight, size and contents
and compare them. Better yet, get a quote from the same shipping company and
see what the real discount is. If Van's gets a 60% discount, then they are
getting that off the "listed price", which nobody probably ever pays. Maybe
they give the average Joe a 30% discount and then truly give Van's only a 30%
discount off what anybody would pay.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC, please
call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me, please call
me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has voicemail
that will get to me in Ecuador.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen)
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 5:29 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
Sounds right. Mine last week was $745 to a business address in Texas. Residential
is always about $50-$100 more. Quite the screw job these freight companies
have going. It had a $120 fuel surcharge on it too. This is the first time
Van's shipped to me via Roadway. The other times it was ABF and much cheaper
but then again the fuse crate is huge to accommodate that canopy.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Mid Fuse Bulkheads
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve dinieri
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 3:57 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher
than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys experienced
as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway
express, which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what say
ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Case" <pioneer(at)choiceonemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans Pricing Increase question |
Price is based on order date.
Bruce Case
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2005 8:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans Pricing Increase question
With Vans increasing prices on Jan 1st 3% will I get the 2005 price if I send
them a check before 12/31?
Is the price based on payment date or delivery date?
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Conti, Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: shipping costs
The shipment was classified as containing plastic. According to trucking companies,
that raises the price.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
From: steve dinieri [mailto:capsteve(at)adelphia.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 15, 2005 4:57 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: shipping costs
i just recieved a shipping bill for my rv-10 fuse that was delivered in november.
(there must have been a screw up in processing) but it seems much higher
than i've paid for any other crate from vans in the past. What have you guys
experienced as far as costs go??? they're trying to collect 890 bucks and telling
me thats with vans discount. i know vans has a 60% discount with roadway
express, which means the real retail price should be 1500 bucks or so. what
say ye'?????(btw..destination was niagara falls,NY)
steve dinieri
n221rv
n231rv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Picking an Engine Monitor |
I am in the process of selecting and engine monitor and would like any
suggestions you have to offer. The options I am considering are:
Advanced Flight Systems F2500
Grand Rapids EIS600
Dynon EMS D-10
MVP-50
I will have dual Cheltons and would like to display the engine data on the
Chelton. I also like the idea of having electronic checklists and data
recording.
What experience do you have with any of these? What should I look for or
avoid? Any experience interfacing with Chelton?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
December 01, 2005 - December 16, 2005
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-av