RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ax
January 09, 2006 - January 18, 2006
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________________________________________________________________________________
Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
| From: | Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org] |
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
stuff that Van's sells.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com> |
| Subject: | IO-540 D2A For Sale |
A neighbor and fellow member of my EAA chapter (974) needs to sell his recently
purchased engine for financial reasons and I wanted to offer it up to the group
for those of you looking to get 300+ HP on your bird.
Specs
----------------
Magnum Engines Zero-timed IO-540 D2A with dual B&C alternators, B&C starter, high compression pistons, crank sensor for LightSpeed Ignition, first overhaul low-time core, and much more. Dyno-tested at 316HP see pictures at www.velocityxl.com and contact by phone at (513) 310-6124 or email at eszoke(at)velocityxl.com. $36,000 firm, paid much more.
----------------
Anyone interested should call them. I don't really know any of the details of
the engine. If I weren't so far away from needing mine, I'd be buying it myself.
Kent Forsythe
40338
Fuel Tanks (yuk)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
and return the window glue to Van's?
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>
>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>
>
>Jeremy P. Harris
>Integrated Missile Defense
>BMDS Architectures Lab
>
>The Boeing Company
>Washington, DC
>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>MC: 793C-G007
>Office: 825B
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org]
>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>
>
>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
>stuff that Van's sells.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>
>
>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>Sam Marlow
>Fuse RV10
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
That looks fantastic. Is the base thick enough to be able to
countersink it for a #40 dimple because I prefer to use AN3-426 rivets
instead of the LP4 rivets. Are the holes already drilled to #30, or
could we get them with #40 holes instead?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Parts
Here's a link to pics of the items that Zack references, They are SWEET!
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> *Deems,*
> **
> * Pics on the way to you to post. Dave will post it to his site when
> he gets caught up on the CNC stuff he has going.*
> **
> **
> * Btw, he is also working on a hydro-formed one piece Trim Tab Access
> panel that will replace the existing one. This Trim Tab Cover will
> have a "fairing" on it that is integral (one piece) with the Trim Tab
> Cover. He will have one ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post when
> it is finished.*
> **
>
> *Zack*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Baggage Floor Dimension |
Hello All,
I would appreciate it if someone would go out and measure the dimensions of the
baggage compartment floor for me. I need the clear area dimensions so please
measure from the inboard edge of any ribs or stringers.
Dave Hertner
40164 - Emp 99% complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
As you look at different materials to secure the windows, keep in mind the plexi
will expand and contract at different rates from the glues which will cause
cracking. Try to make sure the plexi isn't the weaker material.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is that all
that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it work with Van's
window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy, and return the window
glue to Van's?
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
=09
Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
=09
=09
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
=09
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
=09
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org]
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
=09
=09
We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
stuff that Van's sells.
=09
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
=09
=09
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Considering the stresses on this part in flight, I personally wouldn't go below
an AN426AD4. You don't want the bracket shearing the rivets off and fluttering
around back there. You can hide a flush AD4 as easily as a flush AD3.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Doerr, Ray R [NTK]
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 Parts
That looks fantastic. Is the base thick enough to be able to
countersink it for a #40 dimple because I prefer to use AN3-426 rivets
instead of the LP4 rivets. Are the holes already drilled to #30, or
could we get them with #40 holes instead?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Parts
Here's a link to pics of the items that Zack references, They are SWEET!
http://deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> *Deems,*
> **
> * Pics on the way to you to post. Dave will post it to his site when
> he gets caught up on the CNC stuff he has going.*
> **
> **
> * Btw, he is also working on a hydro-formed one piece Trim Tab Access
> panel that will replace the existing one. This Trim Tab Cover will
> have a "fairing" on it that is integral (one piece) with the Trim Tab
> Cover. He will have one ready in a couple of weeks. I'll post when
> it is finished.*
> **
>
> *Zack*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Hugo-rv10-sun and fun |
Good morning at all.
Sun and Fun is 3 months away,any body will come to purchase stuff?
I thinks if we use this remaining time to organize our purchase ,we can go in block
for differents items,hardw. instrum,avionics,belts,etc.
May be we can shave some pennies if we order togheter.
If is to stupid idea,forget,if not .lets organize,.
Hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mills" <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun |
Hugo:
I'am going to Sun'N'Fun, and will be looking/evaluating, and purchasing, so
include me if you get something together.
Thanks,
Steve Mills
40486 just about to start wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Hugo-rv10-sun and fun
>
> Good morning at all.
> Sun and Fun is 3 months away,any body will come to purchase stuff?
> I thinks if we use this remaining time to organize our purchase ,we can go
in block for differents items,hardw. instrum,avionics,belts,etc.
> May be we can shave some pennies if we order togheter.
> If is to stupid idea,forget,if not .lets organize,.
> Hugo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EFIS |
It is a great system. Excellent company to work with.Installed 3 in my 10.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it, installed it,
ect?
Sam Marlow
Instrument Panel RV10
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
inside the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the
way you have access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come
with mounting brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it
can be done. I bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of
those lights you attach to the chassis of your car. They come in
different colors, I selected blue. I installed a small rocker switch on
the cross brace near the door. The blue light lights the area great and
it doesn't not impair your night vision.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rosen [mailto:LarryRosen(at)comcast.net]
Subject: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
I am closing up the fuselage floors (hoping I have left enough access
for electrical runs) and I started thinking about interior lighting.
To light the baggage area is anyone installing lighting in either the
rear baggage door close out panel or in the rear seat bulkhead?
How about map lights for the rear passengers in the bulkhead?
What are some sources for interior lights?
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Suggestion on the needed tool. |
Thanks for the direction, I placed the Avery order already. Too many holes
on the rear spar to wing it!
John
>From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Suggestion on the needed tool.
>Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2006 22:14:01 -0500
>
>
>Avery has Vice grip dimplers for tight areas. There is also a pop rivet
>dimple tool, that you can use without the nail, and squeeze them with a
>pair of pliers
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
>Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 9:45 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Suggestion on the needed tool.
>
>
>
>Hello all,
>
>I am trying to finish up dimpling all my elevator parts and have two
>problem
>areas. The last three holes in the elevator tip rib flange at the
>trailing
>edge are so close to the opposite flange there is no room to get in
>there.
>Are these three holes best to countersink even know the rib skin is
>thin?
>
>Lastly, the rear elevator spar is so narrow that again my pnuematic
>dimpler
>present a problem as the only way to get the male die to get into its
>hole
>is to carefully get the male dimple to start to move, then line it up
>and
>then go for it. Maybe I could do this with one hole but not the 200 or
>so,
>this is suicide. I do not own a hand squezer/rivetter. Any suggestions
>
>short of purchasing the manual dimpler?
>
>THANKS,
>
>John G. #40409
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
members of the list may be interested in the misdrilled rivet hole in the spar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Baggage Floor Dimension |
Dave,
Here are the dimensions from my machine clear of any
obstructions:
Aft wall 33.5"
Forward (just aft of the rear seat angle at floor level): 40"
Front to back: 28"
Hope this is what you were looking for,
Marcus
40286, finally back to work - trimming the top
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Hertner
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Floor Dimension
Hello All,
I would appreciate it if someone would go out and measure the dimensions of
the baggage compartment floor for me. I need the clear area dimensions so
please measure from the inboard edge of any ribs or stringers.
Dave Hertner
40164 - Emp 99% complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Schaefer <dwschaefer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Rapids EFIS |
It's easy to fly and moderately easy to install. Drop me a line off group
and I'll be happy to answer any questions. You can check out the pictures
on my web site.
Regards,
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS
www.n142ds.com
On 1/9/06, pilotdds(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> It is a great system. Excellent company to work with.Installed 3 in my
> 10.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids EFIS
>
> Does anyone have experience with the Grand Rapids EFIS 1? Flown it,
> installed it, ect?
> Sam Marlow
> Instrument Panel RV10
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Anybody know what happened to epanelbuilder.com ??
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it
may be rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about
the front or the rear, but they were working on having them formed from
the factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well.
I ended up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line.
I think my problem was that instead of making the bending block out of
hardwood I used 2 by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a
result the edge of the bending block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and
a will be getting a piece of oak to make the new bending block. Has
anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | F1013-L Longeron Tist |
I believe the right one is bent to match one side of the template and
the left side is bent to match the other side of the template. If you
look at the template drawing in the plans and then look a couple of
pages further, it will show both the top and bottom of the template and
it will be labeled which side is left and right. The parts should be
mirror images except the left one has a bunch more hole where the
doubler rivets on over the baggage door.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Subject: Re: RV10-List: F1013-L Longeron Tist
Hi Ron,
I just finished going through that step. I twisted both the left and
right one as it seems to me that they should be identical at the fwd
end. I am not 100% sure though.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RV10-List: F1013-L Longeron Tist
G'day all,
Happy New Year from Oz!!
Have spent some time bending the fuse longerons. Plans have you mark
fwd/aft twist marks and start/end bend marks on the F1013 left and right
longerons. The plans only call for the right Longeron to be twisted.
Is the left longeron twisted at the forward twist mark?
thanks in advance
Ron
40187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New BBS Interface For Matronics List Forums! |
Dear Listers,
I'm very proud to announce a completely new BBS interface is now available for
all of the Email Lists at Matronics! This is a full-featured system that allows
for viewing, posting, attachments, polls - the works.
But the best part is that it is *completely* integrated with all of the existing
email tools currently available at Matronics! What this means at the most basic
level is that, if you post a message to List from Email in the traditional
way, it will show up on the BBS system *and* get distributed to everyone currently
subscribed to the Email List. By the same token, if you are on the BBS
and post a message to a given List-Forum, the message will not only show up on
the BBS, but also be distributed to everyone on the Email List!!
It is really a very nice implementation and I am very pleased with its operation.
All of the tools you have come to know and love such as the List Search Engine
and List Browse and Download will still be available and contain all of the
latest posts. Think of the new BBS interface as just another method of accessing
the all of the Lists.
You can use the BBS to view all of the latest posts without having to do anything
except use your browser to surf over to the site. You can view and look at
all of the various List's posts. If you want to post a new message or reply
to an existing message from the BBS, you will have to Register on the BBS. This
is a *very* simple process and will only take a couple of minutes. There is
a small icon in the upper righthand side of the main BBS page labeled "Register"
to get you started.
I strongly recommend that you use the exact *same* email address you are subscribed
to the Email Lists with when registering on the BBS. Also, while not an
absolute requirement, I would really appreciate it if people would use their full
name when choosing their Username on the BBS (for example "Matt Dralle").
This just makes it easier for everyone to know who's posting. Also, I have enabled
the ability to upload a small user picture with your profile called an
"avatar". Please use a *real* picture of yourself *with* your cloths on! Thank
you! Maximum size of the bitmap is 120x120.
You can either be subscribed to the BBS, or any number of Email Lists, or both.
Registering on the BBS will allow you to email directly to all of the various
Lists. However, to receive direct List Email, you will need to be *subscribed*
to the various Lists as you have in the past. No changes here in operation.
I have added numerous links on the BBS pointing to the Email List subscription
page.
I've had the BBS connected to the Lists for about a week now, so its already loaded
up with a fair number of messages. You can post photos and other documents
directly to the BBS and links to them will appear in the List Email distributions.
Also, when any messages posted to the BBS are viewed in the List Email
distribution, there will be a URL link at the bottom of the message pointing
back to the BBS.
And here's what you've been waiting for -- the main URL for the new Matronics Email
List BBS is:
http://forums.matronics.com
Please surf on over, Register, and have a great time! I think this will be the
dawn of a whole new era for the Lists at Matronics!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Randy to measure control throws |
My rear spar (slow build) came with the tear drop shape hole. I have set up
the aileron control already except for the fuel tank end. If I move the
aileron the 12.6 deg's I have no issue, I need a helper to see what angle
results in a rub of the rod to the spar, maybe 15 degrees. It is barely
good, so once I get everything on for "real" I will be looking at it again.
-Chris
#40072
>
> Chris,
>
> Thanks for the links. Mine are like Mike Howe's and
> (like him) I traced the rounded off retangle into the
> doubler.
>
> Did your comes as teardrop from the factory? Looking
> at the photo's you can see the tear drop is bigger
> than the retangle. It is the the same shape and size I
> need to allow the aileron free travel to the stop.
>
> I think people should check their rear spar and verify
> that they have sufficient clearance. Don't rely on
> sound as it makes a "clunk" as if it hit the stop
> (when it's actually hitting the control rod).
>
> I subsequently spoke with Randy and he opened up his
> rectangle to more tear dropped for clearance as well.
>
> I wish I knew about this issue before I riveted the
> spar together but I'm glad that I know about it prior
> to flying. My numbers are you need about 1/4 inch
> additional clearance on the lower portion.
>
> If you are still working on the wing kit you can check
> this ahead of time by assembling the powder coated
> parts of the aileron control system. You need only get
> out the bellcrank, one aileron mount, cut the rod to
> length and drill for the threaded ends. You can you
> slide a rivet in to hold the ends on.
>
> What is it like on the quickbuild wings?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric
>
> --- Chris wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Is the hole through your rear spar a "modified
>> teardrop shape or a uniform
>> rectangle with rounded corners. I seem to remember
>> seeing both types in
>> various website photos:
>> Look at the bottom 2 pictures on the following page
>> on Mike Howe's or Tims
>> site:
>> http://www.etigerrr.com/Wings/september_6_2004.htm
>> and then this picture on William Curtis site
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings36.html
>>
>> My cut outs are like Williams , maybe has something
>> to do with it?
>>
>> Chris Lucas
>> #40072
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BBS threads Rock !!!! |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
There is a spellchecker plugin I can get. I haven't looks close, but it supposidly
has popup ads. You know how much I hate those... :-) I'll check into in
and see what I can come up with. I need a spell checker about as much as anybody...
Glad everyone is diggin' the new BBS. It is pretty cool.
Mattster
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2399#2399
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.1 HTML_50_60 BODY: Message is 50% to 60% HTML
* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator trim tab question |
On page 9-17 working on the Elevator trim tabs, you are instructed to dimple all
holes in the trim tab skins and the holes in the trim tab horns. I assume that
we are supposed to dimple the holes in the closeout tabs that we had to bend,
right. They use a CS4-4 blind rivet. I would guess that the "CS" stands
for countersunk, right.
Thanks,
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
spamd2.ruraltel.net
* -4.0 RCVD_FROM_NEXTECH_5 Message came from 204.96.144-152.x network
* 0.0 HTML_MESSAGE BODY: HTML included in message
* -2.6 BAYES_00 BODY: Bayesian spam probability is 0 to 1%
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
Need RV-10 project money!!!!! I have lots of R/C items (including planes, building
tools and flightline items) That I no longer need or use. These are things
that I kinda hate to get rid of but they are just taking up too much space. I
don't have a list composed but I have nearly everything necessary to build and
fly R/C planes. If anybody needs anything in particular let me know. If you
are interested in the planes let me know and I'll post a few pics.
Planes include: World Models Midget Mustang (built, never flown) with engine (don't
remember which engine off the top of my head), Airmadillo trainer with OS
.60FX, Tower trainer 60 no engine, 91" Great Planes Cub kit built with Saito
FA-91S four stroke. Carl Goldberg Staudacher 300 with OS 70FS four stroker. The
Cub and midget mustang have never been flown.
I also have several unstarted kits along with a Top Flite T-6 Texan that has the
VS started.
If anybody is interested in any of this stuff let me know and I'll get some pictures
and details for you.
I will not ship the completed planes. I don't have the time to build crates for
them right now. If you want a plane you'll have to arrange shipping/pick up yourself.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators,Trim Tabs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator trim tab question |
Right...dimple away
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 8:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator trim tab question
On page 9-17 working on the Elevator trim tabs, you are instructed to dimple
all holes in the trim tab skins and the holes in the trim tab horns. I assume
that we are supposed to dimple the holes in the closeout tabs that we had to
bend, right. They use a CS4-4 blind rivet. I would guess that the "CS" stands
for countersunk, right.
Thanks,
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BBS threads Rock !!!! |
I took a look at the BBS and was not that impressed. And I don't mean by
Matt's effort, ability, style, what-have-you...I already impressed with
that. This may just be me, but what is does a BBS give me? With just
Outlook I can get the emails as they come and order them by date, author,
subject matter. I can store the posts that I want to keep in individual
folders so I have a quick means of accessing a topic, etc. When I went to
the BBS I didn't have a clue where a particular topic resided (eg, all
emails of value about trim tabs), or where among all the headers was the
latest email.
Can some kind soul help me out here?
John (old guy) Jessen
~328 (bouncing back and forth between elevators and cone)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Dralle
Subject: RV10-List: Re: BBS threads Rock !!!!
There is a spellchecker plugin I can get. I haven't looks close, but it
supposidly has popup ads. You know how much I hate those... :-) I'll
check into in and see what I can come up with. I need a spell checker about
as much as anybody...
Glad everyone is diggin' the new BBS. It is pretty cool.
Mattster
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=2399#2399
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
On direct2avionic's website they have a link to a new two screen Chelton
specific to the RV-10. However, that link just goes to a page that
states "more info coming soon".
<http://www.direct2avionics.com/efis_sv_10.html>
Anyone know the specifics? How it is different from their "standard"
two screen package?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I just called them a few days ago on this. Explanation at the time was
that it would include a cabling harness. I also had a conversation with
an avionics dealer that said the same thing. Apparently there's a LOT
of wiring and this will make life much easier. Neither of my
conversations revealed why it might be RV-10 specific since it seems
that prefab cable harnesses would be generic to any aircraft. I did ask
specifically whether some sort of mounting hardware would be included
for the AHRS and got a negative response.
Also, there was a hint that they might offer some sort of special this
spring/summer to re-energize sales. Apparently sales have fallen off a
bit as a result of the AHRS issue. Crossbow is reportedly flight
testing an updated AHRS with good results.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Subject: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
On direct2avionic's website they have a link to a new two screen Chelton
specific to the RV-10. However, that link just goes to a page that
states "more info coming soon".
<http://www.direct2avionics.com/efis_sv_10.html>
Anyone know the specifics? How it is different from their "standard"
two screen package?
Thanks...
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chelton RV-10? |
The wiring is not a big issue. The issue is getting the connector kit from
them and getting the proper crimper as the connectors are the high density
D-subs. Supplies and some hired help completed the Chelton J3 interconnect
cable, the J1 cables for less than $300. I was offered prewired cables for
$2000+. The AHRS cable is a 15 pin regular D-sub; sockets and crimper ($40)
for the regular connectors is available from SteinAir or Affordable panels.
The high density crimper ($250+) can be borrowed from an avionics shop and
the HD sockets are in the connector kit. My recommendation is buy the
regular crimper and borrow the HD crimper. Most avionics will use the
regular crimper, only exceptions I know are the Chelton and GNS 480. One
other advice is map the wires correctly the first time; socket removal is
possible with the removal tools but difficult.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
>
>
> I just called them a few days ago on this. Explanation at the time was
> that it would include a cabling harness. I also had a conversation with
> an avionics dealer that said the same thing. Apparently there's a LOT
> of wiring and this will make life much easier. Neither of my
> conversations revealed why it might be RV-10 specific since it seems
> that prefab cable harnesses would be generic to any aircraft. I did ask
> specifically whether some sort of mounting hardware would be included
> for the AHRS and got a negative response.
>
> Also, there was a hint that they might offer some sort of special this
> spring/summer to re-energize sales. Apparently sales have fallen off a
> bit as a result of the AHRS issue. Crossbow is reportedly flight
> testing an updated AHRS with good results.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 12:26 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
>
>
> On direct2avionic's website they have a link to a new two screen Chelton
>
> specific to the RV-10. However, that link just goes to a page that
> states "more info coming soon".
>
> <http://www.direct2avionics.com/efis_sv_10.html>
>
> Anyone know the specifics? How it is different from their "standard"
> two screen package?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chelton RV-10? |
An updated service letter is on Direct to Avionics site at
<http://www.direct2avionics.com/news.html>. Like Bob said, they are
testing and expect the update to be available in February.
Unfortunately it requires the Crossbow to be modified at their facility
either by exchange with a rebuilt "pool" unit or a rework of your unit.
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>I just called them a few days ago on this. Explanation at the time was
>that it would include a cabling harness. I also had a conversation with
>an avionics dealer that said the same thing. Apparently there's a LOT
>of wiring and this will make life much easier. Neither of my
>conversations revealed why it might be RV-10 specific since it seems
>that prefab cable harnesses would be generic to any aircraft. I did ask
>specifically whether some sort of mounting hardware would be included
>for the AHRS and got a negative response.
>
>Also, there was a hint that they might offer some sort of special this
>spring/summer to re-energize sales. Apparently sales have fallen off a
>bit as a result of the AHRS issue. Crossbow is reportedly flight
>testing an updated AHRS with good results.
>
>Bob #40105
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
>Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 12:26 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
>
>
>On direct2avionic's website they have a link to a new two screen Chelton
>
>specific to the RV-10. However, that link just goes to a page that
>states "more info coming soon".
>
><http://www.direct2avionics.com/efis_sv_10.html>
>
>Anyone know the specifics? How it is different from their "standard"
>two screen package?
>
>Thanks...
>
>-Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HEat Shielded Wire |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Any suggestions on where to get heat shielded wire (EGT, CHT, all
others) for under the cowling?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin 480 vs 430 |
I'm waffling on which radio to get and am looking for opinions. I know the
480 is better due to its WAAS capability and precision GPS approaches, but
are there any other advantages of the 480 over the 430? That $2400
difference is no small chunk of cash and I'm not sure how bad I need the
precision approach capability with 2 ILS systems on board (GNS ??? and the
SL-30), although it would be nice to have for runways without an ILS. I
also spoke to the Grand Rapids folks (I'm using the Dual Display GRT EFIS)
and apparently there is a warning that shows up in the 480 indicating "no
OBS detected" (or something similar) since you don't use normal display.
I'm not sure if it's just a nuisance warning only at startup or if it is
displayed continuously/frequently which would be a real distraction.
Thanks for any experiences and recommendations,
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 480 vs 430 |
Garmin says the software development effort on the 430 and 530 to
incorporate WAAS isn't going as smoothly as they hoped, so its going to be
late and expensive, $2K to upgrade a 430. So I'm thinking a 480 for my
Comm/Nav #1, and a King 125 for a backup Comm/Nav #2. If the 480 goes junk,
the King will get me on a localizer or VOR approach at least.
John Kirkland #40333
Marcus Cooper writes:
> I'm waffling on which radio to get and am looking for opinions. I know the
> 480 is better due to its WAAS capability and precision GPS approaches, but
> are there any other advantages of the 480 over the 430? That $2400
> difference is no small chunk of cash and I'm not sure how bad I need the
> precision approach capability with 2 ILS systems on board (GNS ??? and the
> SL-30), although it would be nice to have for runways without an ILS. I
> also spoke to the Grand Rapids folks (I'm using the Dual Display GRT EFIS)
> and apparently there is a warning that shows up in the 480 indicating "no
> OBS detected" (or something similar) since you don't use normal display.
> I'm not sure if it's just a nuisance warning only at startup or if it is
> displayed continuously/frequently which would be a real distraction.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any experiences and recommendations,
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify
your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
I'm using 2 of these and using Van's battery boxes mounted side by side (with
a little mod) aft of the baggage compartment.
In a message dated 1/10/2006 9:05:14 PM Central Standard Time,
armywrights(at)adelphia.net writes:
Who=E2=80=99s used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify
your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin 480 vs 430 |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
Personal opinion based on flying both. The 430 can't carry the 480's
water. The 480 lets you look up everything, be it frequencies, airways,
VORs, NDSs, intersections and plug right into the Flight Plan or for
Direct To. The 430 requires you to pretty much enter everything, one
letter or number at a time. The soft keys on the 480 are king.
The 480 has been criticized as having a 'difficult' menu. Wrong. Once
you are used to it, it is powerful and reasonably intuitive--unlike the
430. Oh, by the way, the 480 is WAAS capable. That's not the reason to
buy it, that's just a fringe benefit.
UPSat got it right, Garmin is still trying.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 480 vs 430
Garmin says the software development effort on the 430 and 530 to
incorporate WAAS isn't going as smoothly as they hoped, so its going to
be
late and expensive, $2K to upgrade a 430. So I'm thinking a 480 for my
Comm/Nav #1, and a King 125 for a backup Comm/Nav #2. If the 480 goes
junk,
the King will get me on a localizer or VOR approach at least.
John Kirkland #40333
Marcus Cooper writes:
> I'm waffling on which radio to get and am looking for opinions. I
know the
> 480 is better due to its WAAS capability and precision GPS approaches,
but
> are there any other advantages of the 480 over the 430? That $2400
> difference is no small chunk of cash and I'm not sure how bad I need
the
> precision approach capability with 2 ILS systems on board (GNS ??? and
the
> SL-30), although it would be nice to have for runways without an ILS.
I
> also spoke to the Grand Rapids folks (I'm using the Dual Display GRT
EFIS)
> and apparently there is a warning that shows up in the 480 indicating
"no
> OBS detected" (or something similar) since you don't use normal
display.
> I'm not sure if it's just a nuisance warning only at startup or if it
is
> displayed continuously/frequently which would be a real distraction.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any experiences and recommendations,
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin 480 vs 430 |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
If you already owned a 430 prior to June of 2005, you were able to
purchase the WAAS upgrade for $1500 if you ordered it before Nov 15.
The 430 that I purchased after June of 2005 did not qualify for this
deal, but they had a different deal that included terrain and WAAS for
$1700. So I order one of each. The 430 with this upgrade get an
entirely new motherboard and faster CPU. This will make the 430 very
fast but not improve the resolution of screen. The screen is still
better on the 480 (more pixels and larger).
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Kirkland
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Garmin 480 vs 430
Garmin says the software development effort on the 430 and 530 to
incorporate WAAS isn't going as smoothly as they hoped, so its going to
be
late and expensive, $2K to upgrade a 430. So I'm thinking a 480 for my
Comm/Nav #1, and a King 125 for a backup Comm/Nav #2. If the 480 goes
junk,
the King will get me on a localizer or VOR approach at least.
John Kirkland #40333
Marcus Cooper writes:
> I'm waffling on which radio to get and am looking for opinions. I
know the
> 480 is better due to its WAAS capability and precision GPS approaches,
but
> are there any other advantages of the 480 over the 430? That $2400
> difference is no small chunk of cash and I'm not sure how bad I need
the
> precision approach capability with 2 ILS systems on board (GNS ??? and
the
> SL-30), although it would be nice to have for runways without an ILS.
I
> also spoke to the Grand Rapids folks (I'm using the Dual Display GRT
EFIS)
> and apparently there is a warning that shows up in the 480 indicating
"no
> OBS detected" (or something similar) since you don't use normal
display.
> I'm not sure if it's just a nuisance warning only at startup or if it
is
> displayed continuously/frequently which would be a real distraction.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any experiences and recommendations,
>
> Marcus
>
> 40286
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
Does the F1070L skin (the one with the baggage door cutout) get bent the same time
the F1070R does? I don't see any mention of it at all.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:31:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may be
rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the front or
the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I ended
up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I think my
problem was that instead of making the bending block out of hardwood I used 2
by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a result the edge of the bending
block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a will be getting a piece of oak
to make the new bending block. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions
on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
I did mine that way..
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 7:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Does the F1070L skin (the one with the baggage door cutout) get bent the
same time the F1070R does? I don't see any mention of it at all.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:31:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may
be rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the
front or the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the
factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I
ended up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I
think my problem was that instead of making the bending block out of
hardwood I used 2 by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a
result the edge of the bending block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a
will be getting a piece of oak to make the new bending block. Has anyone
had a similar experience? Any suggestions on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cleary" <johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com> |
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount it?
Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram? What
voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are primed
and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted surface,
electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power board from
Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
_____
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front longeron
to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was hoping to attach
it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the Harmon Rocket, but
there is not one that runs that far do to the door cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is
the newer version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with
the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount
it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram?
What voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted
surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power
board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a
small amount (around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on
a bracket that attaches to the standard contactor location. I've
attached one picture - if you need/want more I can send them offline if
you'd like. I'm also aware of another builder that has a pair of
PC-680s but they're rotated 90 degrees from "normal" and the contactors
are one on each side.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to
modify your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cleary" <johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com> |
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Rick,
Thank you.
Did you mount it on the rear of the panel itself or on something behind the
panel?
Cheers,
John
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of the
panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is the newer
version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with the
relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
_____
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount it?
Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram? What
voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are primed
and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted surface,
electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power board from
Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
_____
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front longeron
to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was hoping to attach
it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the Harmon Rocket, but
there is not one that runs that far do to the door cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in series
. . .
(Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is
the newer version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with
the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount
it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram?
What voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted
surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power
board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
It's mounted on a thin sheet of wood and the wood is mounted on
stand-offs on the sub-panel.
Jeremy - do you have photos the power board mounting?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 11:13 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
Thank you.
Did you mount it on the rear of the panel itself or on something behind
the panel?
Cheers,
John
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 2:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is
the newer version.
If you order CH Products control grips, you will NOT need the model with
the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the power
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to mount
it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring diagram?
What voltage system did you go for?
Thank you,
John Cleary
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an unpainted
surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought the power
board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward to the
board.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in the
Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the door
cut outs on each side.
Thanks
-Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Well, if we're sharing battery pictures, here's our main battery: 12v + 12v =3D
24v.
Also in view is a real man's contactor . . .
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US SSA)
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a small amount
(around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on a bracket that
attaches to the standard contactor location. I've attached one picture - if
you need/want more I can send them offline if you'd like. I'm also aware of another
builder that has a pair of PC-680s but they're rotated 90 degrees from
"normal" and the contactors are one on each side.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify your
battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
Ok. I'll look this up in the archives and on Aerolectric later today, but
real quick, why 24 volts other than for lighter wiring and that you may have
used avionics out of a Cessna?
John Jessen
~328 (still bouncing back and forth between elevators and cone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
Well, if we're sharing battery pictures, here's our main battery: 12v + 12v
= 24v.
Also in view is a real man's contactor . . .
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 10:53 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: battery
I went with a pair of PC-680s. Tray was modified to increase width a small
amount (around an inch). Contactors (one for each battery) are on a bracket
that attaches to the standard contactor location. I've attached one picture
- if you need/want more I can send them offline if you'd like. I'm also
aware of another builder that has a pair of PC-680s but they're rotated 90
degrees from "normal" and the contactors are one on each side.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 9:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: battery
Who's used the Odyssey PC680 (or two of them) and how did you have to modify
your battery shelf?
Rob
#392 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
We had certain mission avionics that were driving us to 24 volts. Most
avionics these days, however, will run at either 12 or 24. You can get
power converters to go either way, but those are generally cheaper to go
from 24 to 12 then the other way around.
It was a pain in the rear to try and hunt down good 24 volt contactors,
especially for the starter contactor. Van's only sells 12 volt models.
But the one we did eventually get is wicked cool.
Plus it's fun to be different!
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I'll take a few pictures tonight and post them on Jeremy's web site.
www.jharris.net
Go to aviation then RV-10.
Jeremy is helping with my 10 and to date has done all of the work on the
panel.
Pictures to be taken: External power receptacle set up
Power board location on panel
Tray in tail for servos and ELT
Anyone interested in the defrost system?
Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson(at)avidyne.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chelton RV-10? |
Having just done the wiring of the Cheltons, I can tell you
this...
1: the "J2" harnesses (interconnects from screen to screen)
would be good things to buy if you're going to buy anything.
They have a lot of wires.
2: The "J3" harnesses (power, keyboard, autopilot on the PFD)
are SUPER simple and involve very few wires. You could wire
as few as 5 wires I think...if I remember right. Definitely
best to just build them.
3: The "J1" harness (Interface to your radio stack, AHRS,
GPS, Traffic, WSI, ...) has a few more wires, but it surely
isn't very hard to build, and given the complexity of where
you may want to mount your AHRS and things like that, I
would not be interested in buying this harness. Best
to custom build probably for everyone.
So the harnesses involved in wiring the Chelton aren't
very bad at all, except for the J2's. I purchased my
system the last week that harnesses were included, so
I didn't have to build those, but the J1's I basically
decided to build my own, and the J3's I decided to chop
theirs up a bit to eliminate some unused wires. So other
than those straightforward screen inteconnects, the
rest is mostly useless.
Also, in regards to mounting, most builders will want to
mount to suit their needs, and if harnesses are provided
with ends on them, how do you pull them through
conduit and snap bushings under the floor?
Latest on the AHRS is the 2nd SB came out this week and
they're expecting in Feb to begin to accept returns
for either upgrade, or replacement from their pool of
upgraded units, and then hopefully the Crossbow is
good to go.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
> I just called them a few days ago on this. Explanation at the time was
> that it would include a cabling harness. I also had a conversation with
> an avionics dealer that said the same thing. Apparently there's a LOT
> of wiring and this will make life much easier. Neither of my
> conversations revealed why it might be RV-10 specific since it seems
> that prefab cable harnesses would be generic to any aircraft. I did ask
> specifically whether some sort of mounting hardware would be included
> for the AHRS and got a negative response.
>
> Also, there was a hint that they might offer some sort of special this
> spring/summer to re-energize sales. Apparently sales have fallen off a
> bit as a result of the AHRS issue. Crossbow is reportedly flight
> testing an updated AHRS with good results.
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 12:26 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Chelton RV-10?
>
>
> On direct2avionic's website they have a link to a new two screen Chelton
>
> specific to the RV-10. However, that link just goes to a page that
> states "more info coming soon".
>
> <http://www.direct2avionics.com/efis_sv_10.html>
>
> Anyone know the specifics? How it is different from their "standard"
> two screen package?
>
> Thanks...
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Tim
Where up front are you mounting the batteries? What type of battery?
Larry Rosen
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
> series . . .
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti, Rick
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:45 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
> the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is the
> newer version.
>
> If you order CH Products control grips, you will _NOT_ need the model
> with the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the
> power board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Rick,
>
> I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to
> mount it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring
> diagram? What voltage system did you go for?
>
> Thank you,
>
> John Cleary
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti, Rick
> *Sent:* Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
> primed and the riveted connection is a painted surface to an
> unpainted surface, electrically, its not a good connection. I bought
> the power board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward
> to the board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net]
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
> the Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the
> door cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'm interested in seeing the defrost system!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'll take a few pictures tonight and post them on Jeremy's web site.
www.jharris.net
Go to aviation then RV-10.
Jeremy is helping with my 10 and to date has done all of the work on the
panel.
Pictures to be taken: External power receptacle set up
Power board location on panel
Tray in tail for servos and ELT
Anyone interested in the defrost system?
Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson(at)avidyne.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
They are little ones from B&C Specialty, 7 aH, I believe. They are
going to sit on a little tray that will be on the cabin side of the
firewall, up high. The Aux Battery Master contactor and the Crosstie
contactor will probably sit next to them. Still working that out . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Tim
Where up front are you mounting the batteries? What type of battery?
Larry Rosen
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
> series . . .
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti,
Rick
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:45 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> The board is mounted on a wood base w/stand-offs on the right side of
> the panel. Sorry, no photos. I am using a 24v system. The board is the
> newer version.
>
> If you order CH Products control grips, you will _NOT_ need the model
> with the relays in the control grip. The relays are available on the
> power board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:27 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Rick,
>
> I am interested in using this board also. Where did you decide to
> mount it? Do you have any photos? Are you able to share your wiring
> diagram? What voltage system did you go for?
>
> Thank you,
>
> John Cleary
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Conti,
Rick
> *Sent:* Saturday, 7 January 2006 2:09 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> I decided not to use the airframe as a return. Since all parts are
> primed and the riveted "connection" is a painted surface to an
> unpainted surface, electrically, it's not a good connection. I bought
> the power board from Blue Mountain and both battery cables run forward
> to the board.
>
> */Thank You/*
> */Rick Conti/*
> */o/**/ffice: 703-414-6141/*
> */ cell: 571-215-6134/*
>
>
> *From:* Mike Kraus [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net]
> *Sent:* Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:41 PM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> Where is everyone connecting the negative battery cable on the -10? I
> thought about running it up to one of the bolts that bolt the front
> longeron to the rear longeron just aft of the baggage area. I was
> hoping to attach it to a longeron that runs to the firewall like in
> the Harmon Rocket, but there is not one that runs that far do to the
> door cut outs on each side.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Roger that.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) [mailto:bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm interested in seeing the defrost system!
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'll take a few pictures tonight and post them on Jeremy's web site.
www.jharris.net
Go to aviation then RV-10.
Jeremy is helping with my 10 and to date has done all of the work on the
panel.
Pictures to be taken: External power receptacle set up
Power board location on panel
Tray in tail for servos and ELT
Anyone interested in the defrost system?
Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson(at)avidyne.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Odyssey doesn't make a 24 volt battery that I know of and that's what we
wanted to use. Plus one can do a scheme like replace one of the
batteries every year (or two), to maintain a rotating constantly "new"
battery. (I think that idea came from Aero-Electric.)
Good point on the engine info display. Depends somewhat on your EFIS
and it's tolerance for voltage drops, too.
Got any pictures of your external power arrangement? Sounds nice.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com> |
We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural adhesive.
However, there are lots of them out there with different
characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as rubber.
Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less prone to
cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro balloons but
you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion and contraction
of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________
From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
and return the window glue to Van's?
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
=09
Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to
use and is
available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast
(30 min),
slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
cotton flox
seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well
for
filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
=09
=09
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
=09
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
=09
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org]
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
=09
=09
We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't
use Van's
recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
recommended.
It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to
work
really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear,
than the
stuff that Van's sells.
=09
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions
regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
talk to
me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be
on, but
it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
=09
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
Marlow
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windows
=09
=09
I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for
the
windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was
used?
Sam Marlow
Fuse RV10
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
=09
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
When I wired up my sailplane I had the choice of either 12 or 24. My Becker
250W transponder gave me the option of either voltage, but the person in the
field who I consulted told me that the 24v system would allow the
transponder to function more efficiently. I don't know what this means,
whether it could mean better penetration strength or was it simply a
resistence issue in going from the batteries to the unit and not the unit to
the antenae. I don't remember the mathmatical formulas for voltage, amps
resistence
Maybe I was misinformed, but it works fine.
John 40409
>From: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 10:10:38 -0700 (MST)
>
>
>I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small plane,
>I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
>to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
>should consider 24V.
>
>Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> > YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
> >
> >
> >
> > Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in series
> > . . .
> >
> >
> >
> > (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
> >
> >
> >
> > TDT
> >
> > 40025
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
I think the contraction and expansion issue is everything with regards to
canopies, they expand and contract a HUGE amount.
John
>From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 12:13:47 -0800
>
>We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
>Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
>
>In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural adhesive.
>However, there are lots of them out there with different
>characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
>hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as rubber.
>Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less prone to
>cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro balloons but
>you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion and contraction
>of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
>
>
>Jeremy P. Harris
>Integrated Missile Defense
>BMDS Architectures Lab
>
>The Boeing Company
>Washington, DC
>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>MC: 793C-G007
>Office: 825B
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net]
>Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
>
>
>Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
>that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
>work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
>and return the window glue to Van's?
>
>Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to
>use and is
> available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast
>(30 min),
> slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
>cotton flox
> seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well
>for
> filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>
>
> Jeremy P. Harris
> Integrated Missile Defense
> BMDS Architectures Lab
>
> The Boeing Company
> Washington, DC
> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
> Cell: (703) 627-6500
> Fax: (703) 414-6372
> MC: 793C-G007
> Office: 825B
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org]
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>
>
>
> We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't
>use Van's
> recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
>recommended.
> It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to
>work
> really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear,
>than the
> stuff that Van's sells.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions
>regarding I-TEC,
> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
>talk to
> me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be
>on, but
> it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
>Marlow
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>
>
>
> I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for
>the
> windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was
>used?
> Sam Marlow
> Fuse RV10
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R |
Niko,
I don't have access right now to the plans, but they do tell you to bend both panels.
You will want to do the bend BEFORE you cut the baggage door from the
side panel. It helps keep the panel a little more rigid.
Jim C
#40192 - Fuselage
N312F Reserved
============================================================
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 2006/01/11 Wed AM 09:11:45 EST
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Does the F1070L skin (the one with the baggage door cutout) get bent the same time
the F1070R does? I don't see any mention of it at all.
Niko
----- Original Message ----
From: Mike Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:31:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
Talk to Van's. When I was talking to them about this, they mentioned it may be
rolled from the factory now. Not sure if they were talking about the front or
the rear, but they were working on having them formed from the factory.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napoli
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 12:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuse Mid Side Skin Bending - F1070R
I tried to bend the F1070R fuse skin yesterday. It didn't go too well. I ended
up with a tear in the skin at the forward end of the bend line. I think my
problem was that instead of making the bending block out of hardwood I used 2
by 6 construction lumber which is much weeker. As a result the edge of the bending
block broke. Ordered new skin ($75) and a will be getting a piece of oak
to make the new bending block. Has anyone had a similar experience? Any suggestions
on this?
Niko
40188 Fuselage
============================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cleary" <johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com> |
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring for
Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free from
the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au> |
| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
Great idea, Rick.
However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived in
"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light doesn't
activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
photoreceptors) to function.
So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
night vision" (doesn't not = does)
Indran Chelvanayagam
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube inside
the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you have
access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with mounting
brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you attach
to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected blue.
I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
vision.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Not to fuel any fire, but here's some comments regarding Greg's writing...
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/richter/richter.html>
-Sean #40303
John Cleary wrote:
>
> Rick,
>
> Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
>
> I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring for
> Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free from
> the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
>
> http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
>
> John Cleary
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
> Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
> Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
>
> Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
> people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
> pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
> running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
> system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
> to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
> also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
>
> While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
> bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
> power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
> prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
> incorrectly.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> office: 703-414-6141
> cell: 571-215-6134
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
> I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
> plane,
> I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
> to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
> should consider 24V.
>
> Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
>
>> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>>
>>
>>
>> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
>>
> series
>
>> . . .
>>
>>
>>
>> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>>
>>
>>
>> TDT
>>
>> 40025
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and another new
one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small size, sealed
design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the 680 amp cranking
capacity that gives it the name.
It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries with
the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see that the cheaper
ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer amps and the possibility
of internal heat during high current operations.
It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice on their
part.
-Dan Masys
RV-7A flying
RV-10 tailcone mostly done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the
military is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8
years.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
>> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
>
>> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
>
> I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
> another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
>
> The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
> size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
> 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
>
> It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries
> with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
> that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer
> amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current operations.
>
> It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice
> on their part.
>
> -Dan Masys
> RV-7A flying
> RV-10 tailcone mostly done
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2006/01/11 Wed PM 07:15:14 EST
> To:
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the military
is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8 years.
Wasn't actually planning on every two years necessarily, though I appreciate my
post made it seem that way. The older PC680 (only battery the -7A has ever had)
is going to become the bench test battery for the RV-10, so the -7 is the
beneficiary of the swap.
The smarter way to do this is Aeroelectric's timing setup annually that puts a
load on the battery till its dead and measures time under load. The dumber, 'cheap
insurance' way is just to swap it out before it has a chance to become even
a potential problem.
-Dan Masys
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
> >
> >> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
> >
> > I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
> > another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
> >
> > The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
> > size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
> > 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
> >
> > It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries
> > with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
> > that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer
> > amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current operations.
> >
> > It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice
> > on their part.
> >
> > -Dan Masys
> > RV-7A flying
> > RV-10 tailcone mostly done
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
BTW the link is http://www.enersysreservepower.com/ody_b.asp?brandID=5.
check the specs. I am using the 925 in my wife's car to avoid the every two
year replacement in the AZ sun. Have a 925 as backup in the Glastar and a
680 on the firewall for starting. The 10 will have two 680 each capable of
starting.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the
> military is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8
> years.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
>>
>>> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
>>
>> I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
>> another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
>>
>> The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
>> size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
>> 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
>>
>> It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper
>> batteries with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print
>> to see that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus
>> generate fewer amps and the possibility of internal heat during high
>> current operations.
>>
>> It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design
>> choice on their part.
>>
>> -Dan Masys
>> RV-7A flying
>> RV-10 tailcone mostly done
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Negative Battery Cable Connection |
NO I DON'T OWN ANY STOCK but
You are here: EnerSys Home > Reserve Power > Odyssey Batteries
Odyssey Drycell T Batteries
a.. GUARANTEED LONGER SERVICE LIFE With a twelve year military grade
design life and a six-to-ten year service life, ODYSSEY saves you time and
money because you do not have to replace the battery as often. ODYSSEY has
the powersport exclusive 2-year full warranty against factory defects or
three full years in automotive, commercial and heavy-duty marine.
b.. SUPERIOR CRANKING AND FAST CHARGE CAPABILITY The 5 second
cranking power of ODYSSEY batteries is double to triple that of equally
sized conventional batteries, even when the temperature is as low as -40C.
Also, with simple constant voltage charging (14.2-15V) (alternator or
independent charger), there is no limitation on the in rush current, so the
user is assured of fast charge recovery.
c.. MOUNTING FLEXIBILITY The ODYSSEY battery may be installed
on its sides at any angle without sacrificing any performance attributes.
There is no fear of any acid spillage as ODYSSEY recycles the internal gas
during operation or charging.
d.. SUPERIOR VIBRATION RESISTANCE ODYSSEY batteries are of
military grade and have endured rigorous tests that demonstrate their
overall ruggedness and exceptional tolerance of mechanical abuse.
e.. READY OUT OF THE BOX ODYSSEY batteries are shipped fully
charged. If ODYSSEY'S voltage is 12.65V or greater simply install the
battery in your vehicle and you are ready to go! If below 12.65V, boost
charge following the instructions in the ODYSSEY Owner's Manual.
f.. WORRY-FREE SHIPPING The sealed design of the ODYSSEY
battery eliminates the need for a acid vent tube; eliminating the fear of
acid burns or damage to expensive chrome or paint. Owing to the DrycellT
design, the US Department of Transportation (USDOT) has classified the
ODYSSEY battery as a dry battery, so it may be shipped worry-free by
UPS/Federal Express or by air as non-spillable.
g.. LONGER STORAGE LIFE Unlike conventional batteries that
need to be recharged every six to twelve weeks the ODYSSEY battery, when
fully charged, can be stored for up to 2 years at 25C (77F). Simply
recharge and ODYSSEY is returned to full power. At lower temperatures,
storage times will be even longer.
h.. DEEP DISCHARGE RECOVERY Should ODYSSEY become deeply
discharged, simply recharge following instructions in the ODYSSEY Owners
Manual.
There is a also a pdf that explains the development of the
product
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
>> Date: 2006/01/11 Wed PM 07:15:14 EST
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the
>> military is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8
>> years.
>
> Wasn't actually planning on every two years necessarily, though I
> appreciate my post made it seem that way. The older PC680 (only battery
> the -7A has ever had) is going to become the bench test battery for the
> RV-10, so the -7 is the beneficiary of the swap.
>
> The smarter way to do this is Aeroelectric's timing setup annually that
> puts a load on the battery till its dead and measures time under load.
> The dumber, 'cheap insurance' way is just to swap it out before it has a
> chance to become even a potential problem.
>
> -Dan Masys
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
>> To:
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
>> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
>> >
>> >> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
>> >
>> > I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
>> > another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
>> >
>> > The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
>> > size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it
>> > the
>> > 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
>> >
>> > It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper
>> > batteries
>> > with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
>> > that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate
>> > fewer
>> > amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current
>> > operations.
>> >
>> > It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design
>> > choice
>> > on their part.
>> >
>> > -Dan Masys
>> > RV-7A flying
>> > RV-10 tailcone mostly done
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Those Odyssey 680s are about $80 - 85 if I remember - cheap insurance to swap one
every couple of years . . .
Give the used one to a motorcycle-driving friend . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dan Masys
Sent: Wed 1/11/2006 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2006/01/11 Wed PM 07:15:14 EST
> To:
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
> why do you swap every two years? The design life of the battery for the military
is over 10 years and the service life is considered to be 5-8 years.
Wasn't actually planning on every two years necessarily, though I appreciate my
post made it seem that way. The older PC680 (only battery the -7A has ever had)
is going to become the bench test battery for the RV-10, so the -7 is the
beneficiary of the swap.
The smarter way to do this is Aeroelectric's timing setup annually that puts a
load on the battery till its dead and measures time under load. The dumber, 'cheap
insurance' way is just to swap it out before it has a chance to become even
a potential problem.
-Dan Masys
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 4:55 PM
> Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
> >
> >> Is Odyssey an especially good battery?
> >
> > I have an Odyssey PC680 in my RV-7A, now just over two years old (and
> > another new one on the bench awaiting a swap at next oil change).
> >
> > The Odyssey is indeed a very good battery, primarily because of small
> > size, sealed design and a very low internal resistance that gives it the
> > 680 amp cranking capacity that gives it the name.
> >
> > It is basically a motorcycle battery and there are other cheaper batteries
> > with the same form factor, but you have to read the small print to see
> > that the cheaper ones have higher internal resistance, thus generate fewer
> > amps and the possibility of internal heat during high current operations.
> >
> > It is called out in Van's FWF plans for the -7 and is a good design choice
> > on their part.
> >
> > -Dan Masys
> > RV-7A flying
> > RV-10 tailcone mostly done
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
The military uses blue in all of the combat spaces as this does not
effect night vision and still lets you distinguish warning lights in
color. They used to use red but too many warning lights were being
missed. This is not to say it is a really bright light, but more of a
bedroom night light intensity. This makes the transition from the bridge
to combat and back again safer without destroying night vision.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
Great idea, Rick.
However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived
in
"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light
doesn't
activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
photoreceptors) to function.
So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
night vision" (doesn't not = does)
Indran Chelvanayagam
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
inside
the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you
have
access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with
mounting
brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you
attach
to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected
blue.
I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
vision.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Interior Lighting |
Agree wholeheartedly. Give me the bluish-white of a dim LED light over red
any day. Army aviation teaches that after being in a red-light flooded
environment to night adapt, you still need at least another 5 minutes in the
"real" dark to be fully night adapted. You oughta try it some time so you
know just how much your color perception is off for a period after leaving
the red and walking outside, not to mention trying to use green-colored NVGs
right then too.
So for as long as I'll have my night-adapted eyes looking in the baggage
compartment, I'll take the blue/white. My eyes'll be fully back to "night
mode" by the time I get to the taxi checklist.
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
The military uses blue in all of the combat spaces as this does not
effect night vision and still lets you distinguish warning lights in
color. They used to use red but too many warning lights were being
missed. This is not to say it is a really bright light, but more of a
bedroom night light intensity. This makes the transition from the bridge
to combat and back again safer without destroying night vision.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Indran
Chelvanayagam
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 6:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Interior Lighting
Great idea, Rick.
However - the light needs to be red to preserve night vision. This is
because rods (night-vision retinal photoreceptors) have their maximum
sensitivity in the blue part of the spectrum, although this is perceived
in
"black & white". Night vision adaptation takes >30min to acquire, and
milliseconds to lose if exposed again to a bright light. Red light
doesn't
activate the rods very much, while allowing the red cones (bright light
photoreceptors) to function.
So what you wrote was perfectly correct : "blue light doesn't not impair
night vision" (doesn't not = does)
Indran Chelvanayagam
I found a "unique" baggage compartment light. I installed a 30" tube
inside
the cross brace. Notice when you open the baggage door all the way you
have
access to the open end of the cross brace. The lights come with
mounting
brackets. The brackets weren't easy to install, but it can be done. I
bought the tube at an automotive store. It's one of those lights you
attach
to the chassis of your car. They come in different colors, I selected
blue.
I installed a small rocker switch on the cross brace near the door. The
blue light lights the area great and it doesn't not impair your night
vision.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mj.swanson(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
Greetings,
I recently took the plunge on an empennage kit and am contemplating going QB
versus Standard for the Wings and Fuse. What is the consensus on the quality
and workmanship of the QB kits ? Any and all comments are appreciated.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Docstevew1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
I'm sure the 10 QB quality is as good as my 6. Their workmanship is very
good, and the value is way worth the time it saves you to get it airborne.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gengrumpy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
My QB wings and fuselage have been excellent!
I'd do it again.
grumpy #40404
-----Original Message-----
From: mj.swanson(at)sbcglobal.net
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Kit Quality
Greetings,
I recently took the plunge on an empennage kit and am contemplating
going QB versus Standard for the Wings and Fuse. What is the consensus
on the quality and workmanship of the QB kits ? Any and all comments
are appreciated.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Docstevew1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
If you're near HMT there's a 10 QB you can look at, very well done.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
My QB wings and fuselage have real good workmanship. After seeing my buddies slow
build and my QB I anticipate the number of hours saved equals about $5.00
per hour cost savings to me. I know I am really slow, but I have to read the
plans at least three times to be sure I don't screw up really bad.
For those more experienced RV builders the cost of the QB time savings might be
more like $15.00 per hour.
Russ Daves
#40044 working on canopy top
----- Original Message -----
From: mj.swanson(at)sbcglobal.net
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: QB Kit Quality
Greetings,
I recently took the plunge on an empennage kit and am contemplating going QB
versus Standard for the Wings and Fuse. What is the consensus on the quality
and workmanship of the QB kits ? Any and all comments are appreciated.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It is AA6-063X
3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA is aluminum angle,
but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece locally before I have to wait
2 weeks for another delivery from Vans. Meanwhile, would anybody that won't
need this piece for awhile be willing to let me have it and I'll replace it
when I get one from Vans???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'm sure I've got some sitting around - contact me off list if you still
need it.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum angle
I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It
is AA6-063X 3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA
is aluminum angle, but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece
locally before I have to wait 2 weeks for another delivery from Vans.
Meanwhile, would anybody that won't need this piece for awhile be
willing to let me have it and I'll replace it when I get one from
Vans???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB Kit Quality |
On the other hand, if you enjoy building, paying extra to have someone else
do the work is like paying someone else to go to the movies, dinner, etc.,
for you.
Albert (I'd rather do it myself) Gardner
#40422
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum angle |
I think that's just their way of saying "Aluminum Angle 6061-T6"
I'd help you out on the material, but I have some on order right
now that I'm waiting for too.
Advice for people starting out with the build:
On your next order, order a couple of 6' lengths of
AA6-063X3/4X3/4X6' ($6.50)
and order a length or two of
AA6-125X1X1X6'($8.25)
And maybe a couple of
AA6-125X3/4X3/4X6 ($8.80)
And if you're really wanting to have some material, some
AA6-125X1 1/2X2X30 ($6.75)
That way you can get it all shipped together in a long tube.
If it were me, I'd get even more than the above, but you'll
find it extremely handy when you A) Mis-cut something (happened
to me once...having a 6' hunk of 3/4 angle saved my butt), or
B) want to fabricate brackets for things or make mods.
I did a special reinforcement around my stall warning access
hole to prevent oil-canning of the skin, made brackets to mount
my strobe pack, made a mounting for my AHRS, used Angle to reinforce
the panel where I cut the ribs, used some to replace the lower
aft facing "ears" on the lower panel rail after I cut them off so
I could silkscreen that lower bar. All sorts of things you can
do with angle. I only wish I'd have ordered a bit more 063
angle, as that's what I'm waiting for today.
It's only money, right. ;) Don't cringe at spending a little
bit on hardware...you'll save it in piece of mind.
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It
> is AA6-063X 3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA
> is aluminum angle, but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece
> locally before I have to wait 2 weeks for another delivery from Vans.
> Meanwhile, would anybody that won't need this piece for awhile be
> willing to let me have it and I'll replace it when I get one from Vans???
>
> Thanks,
> Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Photos Have Been Posted |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
All,
As promised I took 31 photos last night and Jeremy was kind enough to
post them on his personal web site.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Anticipating questions:
1. The black box on the aft aux tray is a variable voltage divider
to provide 12 volts to the baggage lights.
2. The small baggage light was added later to light a "dark" spot.
Easily removed if I decide to do so.
3. Control Grip junction box - I bought the CH Products 5 button
grips for both pilot and copilot. All buttons, except PTT are common.
(By the way Kevin at CH Products is great to work with)
4. The defrost system uses the rear seat heat. Yes, rear seat
passengers go without heat when the defrosters are in use. I forgot to
take a picture of the top of the panel, but I have installed two
deflectors from a Piper Cherokee.
5. If you look closely at the external power close-up photo, you'll
notice the entire set up is removable from the rear, leaving only a hole
in the bulk head that the door sits in.
6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center console?
I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy and I considered
venting the center area, but couldn't find a good way to get the vented
air out of the plane. Instead, several layers of insulation have been
installed under the false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was
told the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located directly
in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust gas temperature
issue.
7. The insulation is wrapped with aluminum foil because if provides
better sound insulation for the higher frequencies.
8. Magnetometer installation is very very close to level and very
stable.
9. Pre-oil switch grounds the magnetos. First, let's not start
another discussion on the value of pre-oilers. You are entitled to your
opinion, bottom line - I am installing one. Here is the explanation for
grounding the mags. My starting sequence is as follows:
Pre-oiler switch on (mags grounded). Pre-oil is not
wired through the master switch.
Complete external pre-flight.
Turn on master switch. EFIS and aux fuel pump are
powered, no gyros or radios are powered. I don't like gyros spinning
just because the master switch is on.
Turn engine over 2/3 rotations with ignition to
distribute oil. Engine will not fire (mags grounded). I have no desire
to hand prop.
Prime engine.
Turn pre-oiler off.
Start engine.
Turn on avionics master.
10. If the area around the power board looks like a rat's nest
you're wrong. Even rats wouldn't live in a dump like that.
Finally, having a pre-oiler and not being able to use it in flights
doesn't make much sense. There will be a switch (under the panel with a
safety cover) that parallels only the pre-oiler power.
Hope this helps.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I have one. See Jeremy's web site for pictures.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Very import, if you order one, ask for the variant that has been rotated
90 degrees. They'll know what you mean. I asked and they modified the
unit for the 10. Notice in the pictures the connectors face aft, veeery
nice.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring
for
Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free
from
the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum angle |
aluminum angle 6061T6
marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 2:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aluminum angle
I am coming up short a piece of aluminum angle for the -10 emp kit. It is AA6-063X
3/4 X 3/4 X 18. What does the "AA6" mean. I know that AA is aluminum
angle, but what is the "6". I'll try to find a piece locally before I have to
wait 2 weeks for another delivery from Vans. Meanwhile, would anybody that won't
need this piece for awhile be willing to let me have it and I'll replace
it when I get one from Vans???
Thanks,
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining internal fuel
tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
Thoughts?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alodine inside fuel tanks? |
I have been warned against it. The reason was that the Alodine will
eventually come off in the tanks. The only corrosion protection you need
is the Alclad and Proseal.
I was going to Alodine my tanks until I was beaten into submission by
this A&P/RV-8 builder.
-Jim 40384
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>Hey all -
>Here's a question... Are some of you out there alodining internal fuel
>tank parts? I was under the impression that that was no good.
>Thoughts?
>
>cj
>#40410
>wings
>www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Photos Have Been Posted |
Rick,
Thanks for sharing the modifications.
I would like to see some additional photos of the console you fabricated
for below the panel and above the tunnel.
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
Hi all!
Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an issue an RV-8
builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds 22 Gallons, he uses
15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I don't have a gauge,
and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like to get half to be as
close to half as possible!
Questions:
1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your tank:
A) What is the resistance of your sending unit?
B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4, 1/4?)?
2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
a) 1/4
b) 1/2
c) 3/4
d) Full
Many thanks for replies!
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photos Have Been Posted |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I'll be out of town for 10 days. Maybe Jermey can take some pictures tomorrow.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rosen
Sent: Thu Jan 12 14:56:28 2006
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Photos Have Been Posted
Rick,
Thanks for sharing the modifications.
I would like to see some additional photos of the console you fabricated
for below the panel and above the tunnel.
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Heating issue in center console |
>6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center
> console? I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy
> and I considered venting the center area, but couldn't find a
> good way to get the vented air out of the plane. Instead,
> several layers of insulation have been installed under the
> false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was told
> the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located
> directly in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust
> gas temperature issue.
Regarding Rick's item 6 (above), I'm having difficulty locating this
thread in the RV-10 list emails. Can anybody tell me the name of the
poster, and/or when the thread was discussed, or perhaps the title of
the thread?
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 790 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
To any completed RV-10 owners
I would like to build a fuel tab Ala Cherokee. can
someone give me a dimension for 10 gallons down (20 in
the tank).
Thanks
Steve 40212 Tanks
--- James Hein wrote:
>
>
> Hi all!
>
> Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an
> issue an RV-8
> builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds
> 22 Gallons, he uses
> 15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I
> don't have a gauge,
> and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like
> to get half to be as
> close to half as possible!
>
> Questions:
> 1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your
> tank:
> A) What is the resistance of your sending
> unit?
> B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4,
> 1/4?)?
>
> 2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
> A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
> a) 1/4
> b) 1/2
> c) 3/4
> d) Full
>
> Many thanks for replies!
> -Jim 40384
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | center console access |
Anyone addressed the problem of removal of the center tunnel access after
the seats are in place. As the design currently exists, removing the center
covers requires removing the front seats to inspect the center tunnel.
clearance for four fasteners is grossly insufficient as designed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heating issue in center console |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heating issue in center console |
Tim,
The thread is on VansAirForce Forums in the RV-10 section titled "Hot
Tunnels"
This link should work
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=4187>
Larry Rosen
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> >6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center
> > console? I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy
> > and I considered venting the center area, but couldn't find a
> > good way to get the vented air out of the plane. Instead,
> > several layers of insulation have been installed under the
> > false floor. Hopefully this will do the job. I was told
> > the heat was caused by the cowling air exit being located
> > directly in the center of the fuselage. It is not an exhaust
> > gas temperature issue.
>
> Regarding Rick's item 6 (above), I'm having difficulty locating this
> thread in the RV-10 list emails. Can anybody tell me the name of the
> poster, and/or when the thread was discussed, or perhaps the title of
> the thread?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | This is a test with the List MIME turned off. |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Roxy RT [tmp] ==> cat sailplane.msg.before | formail -c -I ""
Testing, 1 2 3.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cleary" <johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com> |
| Subject: | Negative Battery Cable Connection |
Rick,
Very helpful pictures.
Thank you for taking the trouble,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Friday, 13 January 2006 3:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I have one. See Jeremy's web site for pictures.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Very import, if you order one, ask for the variant that has been rotated
90 degrees. They'll know what you mean. I asked and they modified the
unit for the 10. Notice in the pictures the connectors face aft, veeery
nice.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring
for
Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable free
from
the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane,
I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I perceive
to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to understand why I
should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com> |
Since the discussion of 24v aircraft has popped up... I thought you
might be interested in some of the challenges Rick and I have run into
making the RV-10 airplane run on 24V. The avionics were the easy part
since most are designed to run off 24V. The tricky items were the 12V
accessories, flap system, indicators, lights, and trim motors.
Here's a list of some of our modifications:
1. Flap System - Vans/ Show Planes OEM
Required new Flap Positing System control box from Show planes
rated at 24V (Approximately $50-100 fee to modify)
New Flap Motor - Had to replace Pitman 12V motor that came in
Van's flap system with a 24V variant of the motor. Required sending the
assembly and new motor back to manufacturer of flap actuator to get the
new motor installed in the actuator (had to press on a new gear to
shaft) - Cost was shipping and a minor checkout charge
2. Trim Indicators - Ray Allen LED bar type
Require 12V power supply - had to create 12V voltage regulators
from Radio Shack - low cost but time consuming
3. Trim Motors - Ray Allen
Trim motors are all 12V. We are using Blue Mountain Power board
which output 12V to trim system - Without BMA board, another converter
would be required.
4. Lighting Dimmer - LC-40 Flight Data Systems
Stock dimmer Van's sells is not 24V. Requires a mod be made at
factory to replace some diodes. Low cost - but time consuming - Best to
order directly from Flight Data Systems and get the 24V one the first
time
5. Van's Firewall Forward - Alternator
Alternator in kit is 12V - need 24V... Have to buy somewhere
else...
6. Starter - Stock engine through vans will come with 12V starter -
must contact engine manufacturer directly and request 24 volt starter.
7. Solenoids
Ones supplied by Vans are all 12V - need to get 24v from other
supplier
8. Battery Tray must be modified to fit larger battery (24v battery way
about 2 times the size of 12V
9. Stock lighting is typically 12V - A regulator was necessary for
baggage lights and other lights planned for the airplane which are not
available in 24V.
10. Battery Charger - Had to buy a 24V battery charger - more expensive
than the typical 12V model available. $100-200.
11. All lights supplied by vans are typically 12V. Will require
changing out the light bulbs for 24v type. Can be a little pricey for
a/c bulbs. However, if you can get them sent to you 24V the first time,
you can eliminate have a useless spare set of 12V bulbs laying around
the shop.
Pretty much everything else was available in 24v without much issue.
Lighting transformers, pitot tubes, radios, instruments are all
available 24v. About my only concern remaining would be getting stuck
at some small airport somewhere that there isn't a 24V external power
supply to jump the aircraft. However, if you have a spare set of jumper
cables and 2 car batteries you can get 24V easy enough.
Hope this helps any of you planning on going 24V.
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 1:07 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
-->
Rick,
Very helpful pictures.
Thank you for taking the trouble,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Friday, 13 January 2006 3:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I have one. See Jeremy's web site for pictures.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Very import, if you order one, ask for the variant that has been rotated
90 degrees. They'll know what you mean. I asked and they modified the
unit for the 10. Notice in the pictures the connectors face aft, veeery
nice.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring
for Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable
free from the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane, I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I
perceive to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to
understand why I should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Photos Have Been Posted |
| From: | "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com> |
I put an image of the template we used to fabricate the center console
on my website: http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
It's not exactly what we used but it will give you the general idea. We
make all of our sheet metal patterns out of white poster board and use
them to test fit everything before we cut & bend expensive sheet metal.
Jeremy
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rosen [mailto:LarryRosen(at)comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Photos Have Been Posted
Rick,
Thanks for sharing the modifications.
I would like to see some additional photos of the console you fabricated
for below the panel and above the tunnel.
Larry Rosen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H PAINE <bluebird266(at)dslextreme.com> |
| Subject: | Surecheck VRX for Sale |
Cc: "Boyd C. Braem" , rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Surecheck VRX 8 months
New. Works great
Need $$ for next project
1st $550.00 takes it
contact Harry off list at
bluebird(at)dslextreme.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Heating issue in center console |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
A buddy of mine is near completion of a Lancair ES. His firewall is
composite and has a insulated, fire rated reflective blanked over it
between the engine and the firewall. This might help.
Bobby Hughes
(waiting on finish kit)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heating issue in center console
Tim,
The thread is on VansAirForce Forums in the RV-10 section titled "Hot
Tunnels"
This link should work
<http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=4187>
Larry Rosen
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>
> >6. False floor - remember the heating issue in the center
> > console? I spoke with the pilot who posted that data. Jeremy and I
> >considered venting the center area, but couldn't find a good way to
> >get the vented air out of the plane. Instead, several layers of
> >insulation have been installed under the false floor. Hopefully
> >this will do the job. I was told the heat was caused by the cowling
> >air exit being located directly in the center of the fuselage. It
> >is not an exhaust gas temperature issue.
>
> Regarding Rick's item 6 (above), I'm having difficulty locating this
> thread in the RV-10 list emails. Can anybody tell me the name of the
> poster, and/or when the thread was discussed, or perhaps the title of
> the thread?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Here's what we did:
1.-4.) Created a "12V bus" that is fed by a 20 Amp voltage converter.
The Flaps, Trim, and Fuel Pump are connected to this bus.
5.-6.) 24 Volt alternators and starter from B&C Specialties.
7.) As mentioned before, finding good contactors took a little effort,
but got some nice ones from Mouser.
8.) As mentioned before, 2 12V Odyessy batteries used.
9.) Running two 12v LED lights in series for dome lights.
10.) With two 12V batteries, can charge them separately with 12v
charger, or together with 24V.
11.) Not using Van's lights. Using 24 volt lights in most cases.
Strobe supply takes either voltage.
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris,
Jeremy P
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 7:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 24V Lessons
Since the discussion of 24v aircraft has popped up... I thought you
might be interested in some of the challenges Rick and I have run into
making the RV-10 airplane run on 24V. The avionics were the easy part
since most are designed to run off 24V. The tricky items were the 12V
accessories, flap system, indicators, lights, and trim motors.
Here's a list of some of our modifications:
1. Flap System - Vans/ Show Planes OEM
Required new Flap Positing System control box from Show planes
rated at 24V (Approximately $50-100 fee to modify)
New Flap Motor - Had to replace Pitman 12V motor that came in
Van's flap system with a 24V variant of the motor. Required sending the
assembly and new motor back to manufacturer of flap actuator to get the
new motor installed in the actuator (had to press on a new gear to
shaft) - Cost was shipping and a minor checkout charge
2. Trim Indicators - Ray Allen LED bar type
Require 12V power supply - had to create 12V voltage regulators
from Radio Shack - low cost but time consuming
3. Trim Motors - Ray Allen
Trim motors are all 12V. We are using Blue Mountain Power board
which output 12V to trim system - Without BMA board, another converter
would be required.
4. Lighting Dimmer - LC-40 Flight Data Systems
Stock dimmer Van's sells is not 24V. Requires a mod be made at
factory to replace some diodes. Low cost - but time consuming - Best to
order directly from Flight Data Systems and get the 24V one the first
time
5. Van's Firewall Forward - Alternator
Alternator in kit is 12V - need 24V... Have to buy somewhere
else...
6. Starter - Stock engine through vans will come with 12V starter -
must contact engine manufacturer directly and request 24 volt starter.
7. Solenoids
Ones supplied by Vans are all 12V - need to get 24v from other
supplier
8. Battery Tray must be modified to fit larger battery (24v battery way
about 2 times the size of 12V
9. Stock lighting is typically 12V - A regulator was necessary for
baggage lights and other lights planned for the airplane which are not
available in 24V.
10. Battery Charger - Had to buy a 24V battery charger - more expensive
than the typical 12V model available. $100-200.
11. All lights supplied by vans are typically 12V. Will require
changing out the light bulbs for 24v type. Can be a little pricey for
a/c bulbs. However, if you can get them sent to you 24V the first time,
you can eliminate have a useless spare set of 12V bulbs laying around
the shop.
Pretty much everything else was available in 24v without much issue.
Lighting transformers, pitot tubes, radios, instruments are all
available 24v. About my only concern remaining would be getting stuck
at some small airport somewhere that there isn't a 24V external power
supply to jump the aircraft. However, if you have a spare set of jumper
cables and 2 car batteries you can get 24V easy enough.
Hope this helps any of you planning on going 24V.
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 1:07 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
-->
Rick,
Very helpful pictures.
Thank you for taking the trouble,
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Friday, 13 January 2006 3:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I have one. See Jeremy's web site for pictures.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Very import, if you order one, ask for the variant that has been rotated
90 degrees. They'll know what you mean. I asked and they modified the
unit for the 10. Notice in the pictures the connectors face aft, veeery
nice.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: John Cleary [mailto:johncleary(at)mangertonnsw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Rick,
Are you planning to use one of the Blue Mountains EFIS?
I agree wholeheartedly with you on the 24 volt explanation in 'Wiring
for Smart People'. For anybody who hasn't read it, it is downloadable
free from the Blue Mountains web site at the following link.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/download.php#appnotes
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, 12 January 2006 5:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
Before I answer, why 2 batteries? I bought one 24 volt battery.
Gregg's (of Blue Mountain Avionics fame) document Wiring for Smart
people makes a good case for 24 volts and he convinced me. My oil
pressure gauge is part of my EFIS, therefore the EFIS must be up and
running when I start the engine. There is too much draw for a 12 volt
system when the starter is cranking and could very likely cause the EFIS
to shut off or reboot. I need to see oil pressure immediately. This is
also true for other avionics that are on when cranking the engine.
While we're on the subject, I installed a flush mounted door in the rear
bulkhead adjacent to the baggage door. Behind the door is the external
power plug connected to a solenoid with a diode. The diode and solenoid
prevent voltage from getting to the battery if the cables are connected
incorrectly.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen [mailto:kellym(at)aviating.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Negative Battery Cable Connection
I'm curious what the perceived benefits of 24volts are. On a small
plane, I don't see a significant wt. advantage. Most 24V accessories I
perceive to be more expensive..maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to
understand why I should consider 24V.
Tim Dawson-Townsend said:
> YES!! At least one other person using 24 volts! Hooray for us!
>
>
> Like others, we have two Odyssey batteries, but they are wired in
series
> . . .
>
>
> (Plus two little ones up front that are also in series . . .)
>
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
Guys,
Dave made up some anchor brackets out of 6061 aluminum billet. He copied the
exact angle of Vans W-415 weldment (you know the part with the "tack welded"
nut). Well, I installed the new aluminum bracket onto the elevator yesterday
and it wouldn't fit real nice. Let me explain....The new bracket was drilled
exactly where Vans says to put his w-415. After installing the trim tab cable
to the trim tab and routing the cable thru the forward elevator spar, the trim
tab access cover would not nest in its recess in the elevator without undue
force. The angle of the bracket (25 degrees) made the cable bind when going
thru the forward spar of the elevator.
I doubled checked this with Vans W-415 part. Same thing. Did anyone else have
this problem? Anyway, Dave came out, measured the proper nut angle (15 degrees),
and made a new bracket. After installing the new bracket I am happy to
say there is no more binding, thru the full range of motion of the cable, while
it is attached to the trim tab. This thing fits perfect.
Btw, I called Vans and talked to Gus about this. Gus's answer was to re-weld
the nut at the proper angle. I told him I would have someone make up a aluminum
bracket from billet. He said that would be best.
Anyway, I caught this in time and Dave will send out all the brackets to those
who already ordered from Dave, with this new 15 degree nut angle. He just
has to make up new ones.
Zack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | Soundproofing the -10 |
For those who have (or are considering) installing soundproofing under the
front/rear floorboards, has anyone made provisions for ensuring that
moisture is not trapped between the bottom skins and the soundproofing?
I am using an epoxy-based primer on all interior surfaces and plan on using
the moisture resistant soundproofing from Spruce which will help, but want
to take steps to ensure no water can get trapped. My concern is that any
water that makes it's way into the cabin could be trapped in an area that
can't be inspected and eventually lead to corrosion problems down the road.
Some of the solutions I've kicked around are gluing the material to the
bottom of the floorboards or installing lightweight tubing to prop the
material off the bottom skins.
Anyone have any opinions on this?
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #40473
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Soundproofing the -10 |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Condensation is indeed the source when untreated, leading to corrosion
under thermal/acoustic batting materials. Removable Desiccant bags are
not a bad idea (inside the cockpit) for hangared aircraft in
higher/humid locales like the Wet Coast. Cameras and avionics always
get packed with it for a reason - maritime container shipments. I will
forward to Tim for the RV University site, digital pictures of just how
much condensate staining such insulation receives between C checks.
Dan Newland on the Lancair matronics list works for ORCON in the Bay
Area. They manufacture fiberglass spun, plastic bag encapsulated custom
batts for ease of installation and inspection removal. They even have a
special tape called Orcon Tape for fire suppression integrity we use on
our airliners.
He wrote an article back in about April for Sport Aviation on his
treatment of a two place plastic project for Dave Morss. He was
receptive to tackling the RV-10 if he had accurate measurements for each
of the many panels. At 500+ there is a growing market for such a
supplier. On the acoustic side, the firewall and windscreen were the
greatest culprits for noise in the cockpit.
Zetex (DuPont) is the metallic faced, thermal firewall batting used to
increase the time to land on plastic planes. Without suppression, its
all about getting on the ground. There is an associated high temp
adhesive that can be used. High Temp RTV (red) is used to provide the
fillet between batting and airframe.
Our club lost a member last week and the Take Away was "If a fire breaks
out or if the engine stops... The insurance company owns it... don't be
a fool... land and runaway to fly another day." I lost a friend in
August 2004 who was too obsessed with "The most beautiful Legacy in the
world". Fire Annunciation, Fire Suppression, Fire Off a claim letter to
your insurance carrier.
John - $00.02
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Soundproofing the -10
For those who have (or are considering) installing soundproofing under
the
front/rear floorboards, has anyone made provisions for ensuring that
moisture is not trapped between the bottom skins and the soundproofing?
Anyone have any opinions on this?
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #40473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Positon |
I am working on the rudder pedal installation. It seems that there is
an option for the mounting position of the pedals. The bearing block
could be mounted to the longeron in two different positions. I am 5'-9"
and I think that the forward position would be the appropriate choice.
What do you all think?
Would it be prudent to drill the center bearing block for both positions
so the pedals could be moved easier in the future?
Larry Rosen
40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Positon |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I'm 5 8 and moved the peddals aft.
Thank You
Rick Conti
The Boeing Company
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Rosen
Sent: Sat Jan 14 07:06:39 2006
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Positon
I am working on the rudder pedal installation. It seems that there is
an option for the mounting position of the pedals. The bearing block
could be mounted to the longeron in two different positions. I am 5'-9"
and I think that the forward position would be the appropriate choice.
What do you all think?
Would it be prudent to drill the center bearing block for both positions
so the pedals could be moved easier in the future?
Larry Rosen
40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
Zack:
Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
Thanks
Dick Sipp
40065
do not achieve
----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Czachorowski
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
Guys,
Dave made up some anchor brackets out of 6061 aluminum billet. He copied
the exact angle of Vans W-415 weldment (you know the part with the "tack welded"
nut). Well, I installed the new aluminum bracket onto the elevator yesterday
and it wouldn't fit real nice. Let me explain....The new bracket was drilled
exactly where Vans says to put his w-415. After installing the trim tab cable
to the trim tab and routing the cable thru the forward elevator spar, the
trim tab access cover would not nest in its recess in the elevator without undue
force. The angle of the bracket (25 degrees) made the cable bind when going
thru the forward spar of the elevator.
I doubled checked this with Vans W-415 part. Same thing. Did anyone else
have this problem? Anyway, Dave came out, measured the proper nut angle (15
degrees), and made a new bracket. After installing the new bracket I am happy
to say there is no more binding, thru the full range of motion of the cable,
while it is attached to the trim tab. This thing fits perfect.
Btw, I called Vans and talked to Gus about this. Gus's answer was to re-weld
the nut at the proper angle. I told him I would have someone make up a aluminum
bracket from billet. He said that would be best.
Anyway, I caught this in time and Dave will send out all the brackets to those
who already ordered from Dave, with this new 15 degree nut angle. He just
has to make up new ones.
Zack
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor Brackets
with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled from 6061
billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
Zack
[quote="Dick Sipp"]Zack:
?
Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
?
Thanks
?
Dick Sipp
40065
do not achieve
> ---
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4058#4058
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
G'day,
Any ordering options for those of us in other countries?
Thanks,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
zackrv8 wrote:
>
> Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor Brackets
with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled from 6061
billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
>
> Zack
>
>
>
>
> [quote="Dick Sipp"]Zack:
> ?
> Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
> ?
> Thanks
> ?
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
> do not achieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. |
I have a silly question. I started to back rivet the elevator reinforcement
plate to the skins and did two rivets with the size called out in the plans
and both rivets bent over. They appear too long. I did the math with the
two skins adding to 0.048" and the rivets being a 3/32 diameter. By this
calculation I need a rivet of 3.1 sixteenths in length. The plans call for
a 3-3.5. I shot a 3-3 and it was straight but border line on shop head
length.
Back riveting is supposed to be a no brainer, but why did two of them bend
over and on the second one, I really concentrated. Did anyone have this
problem?
JOhn G. 40409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. |
G'day,
John Gonzalez wrote:
> Back riveting is supposed to be a no brainer, but why did two of them
> bend over and on the second one, I really concentrated. Did anyone
> have this problem?
Not necessarily a no-brainer. I have certainly found that rivets can
still be bent over.
A trick I use was one shown to me at my initial RV Workshop to ensure
that you are back-riveting straight down on the rivet. If you have the
set angled to the side you can very easily bend over a slightly long
rivet. Link below:
http://www.bravo.net.au/~samrv6/tech%20topics.html
Have fun,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 * www.vansaircraft.com *
info(at)vansaircraft.com
Service letter: January 9, 2006
Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that some of the main gear axle
nuts
supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November of 2005 have threads
that
are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
* If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw onto the main gear
axles,
please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
Rob
#392
Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate. |
I think you should consider a set of rivet gages: one to ensure correct
length and the others to make sure the shop head is formed properly. Van's
does a good job of properly calling out rivet sizes in the plans but you
should be prepared to verify/change the size if necessary.
Albert Gardner
40422
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting the elevator trim reinforcement plate.
Back riveting is supposed to be a no brainer, but why did two of them bend
over and on the second one, I really concentrated. Did anyone have this
problem?
JOhn G. 40409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Positon |
I drilled both positions on mine. Who knows I may get taller.
Wayne Edgerton
40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Posted 9 Jan 06 Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts |
I received the finishing kit at the end of December. The nuts won't
thread on but one turn or so. Contacted Van's and they want them
returned and they will re-machine them - deeper threads. Mine went back
yesterday.
Byron #40253 - playing with the doors.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 12:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 * www.vansaircraft.com *
info(at)vansaircraft.com
Service letter: January 9, 2006
Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that some of the main gear
axle nuts
supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November of 2005 have
threads that
are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
* If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw onto the main gear
axles,
please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
Rob
#392
Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
> From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
> Date: 2006/01/13 Fri AM 07:34:42 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: 24V Lessons
>
...long list of 24v issues deleted.
> About my only concern remaining would be getting stuck
> at some small airport somewhere that there isn't a 24V
>external power supply to jump the aircraft.
Like many builders, I am thinking about the advantages and disadvantages of 24v.
I can say, however, that in two years of flying my RV-7A I have inadvertently
run the battery down completely three times (by leaving a switch on overnight
twice, and an external GPS plugged into the accessory outlet for days the other
time). Of these, two times it was at a small airport where there was no
24v power available. I got a jump from a little tractor being used to tow airplanes
in one case, and a charge from a borrowed 12v car battery charger in the
other.
This will probably be the deciding factor for me. Having lived and learned, and
depended upon the kindness of strangers when traveling cross county, I'm pretty
strongly incentivized to go with 12 volts.
-Dan Masys
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BBS threads Rock !!!! |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> If you prefer the email format it gives you nothing.
Not necessarily so:
1) You can easily post Photos, pdf, docs, etc.
Just click "Add an Attachment" below and your file is linked in the email.
2) People like me can look through all the other lists and pick up good tips and
tricks, that I wouldn't normally get from my one little group of builders, without
subscribing to all the lists.
Being dyslexic that photo thing is worth it's weight in gold... :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4153#4153
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 |
Rob,
Try a Cogsdill burraway. You can find them
consistently on E-bay. Be forewarned you may have to
tinker with the adjustment especially with the #40.
However once it is set I rarely need to readjust (only
if I have changed to deburring a different thickness
of material).
Some people really like them and others do not. I
personally would consider this an essential tool
because it cuts the deburring time by 2/3. Most of the
used tools you find on E-bay are surplus from Boeing.
here is an example of such an item:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aircraft-tool-Cogsdill-Burraway-Hole-Deburr-Tool_W0QQitemZ7580217685QQcategoryZ109559QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I do not know this lister and cannot give any
recomendation other than you will use the two smallest
sizes frequently and the next two sizes occaisionally.
Steve 40212 wings
--- "Robert G. Wright"
wrote:
> VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
>
> 14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
>
> PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 *
> www.vansaircraft.com *
> info(at)vansaircraft.com
>
> Service letter: January 9, 2006
>
> Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
>
> Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
>
> It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that
> some of the main gear axle
> nuts
>
> supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November
> of 2005 have threads
> that
>
> are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
>
> * If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw
> onto the main gear
> axles,
>
> please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
>
>
>
> Rob
>
> #392
>
> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
The other aspect is finding a replacement alternator when you are stuck
someplace. A standard Nippon Densu 60 amp alternator is $80 at any auto
parts store.
Carl Froehlich
RV-10 (empennage)
RV-8A (230 hrs)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 24V Lessons
> From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
> Date: 2006/01/13 Fri AM 07:34:42 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: 24V Lessons
>
...long list of 24v issues deleted.
> About my only concern remaining would be getting stuck
> at some small airport somewhere that there isn't a 24V
>external power supply to jump the aircraft.
Like many builders, I am thinking about the advantages and disadvantages of
24v. I can say, however, that in two years of flying my RV-7A I have
inadvertently run the battery down completely three times (by leaving a
switch on overnight twice, and an external GPS plugged into the accessory
outlet for days the other time). Of these, two times it was at a small
airport where there was no 24v power available. I got a jump from a little
tractor being used to tow airplanes in one case, and a charge from a
borrowed 12v car battery charger in the other.
This will probably be the deciding factor for me. Having lived and learned,
and depended upon the kindness of strangers when traveling cross county, I'm
pretty strongly incentivized to go with 12 volts.
-Dan Masys
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 |
I found a set on eBay for $20. Have not tried them yet.
TAIL KIT IS AT THE SHIPPING DEPOT!!!! Unfortunately, they're closed until
Tuesday
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
>
> Rob,
>
> Try a Cogsdill burraway. You can find them
> consistently on E-bay. Be forewarned you may have to
> tinker with the adjustment especially with the #40.
> However once it is set I rarely need to readjust (only
> if I have changed to deburring a different thickness
> of material).
>
> Some people really like them and others do not. I
> personally would consider this an essential tool
> because it cuts the deburring time by 2/3. Most of the
> used tools you find on E-bay are surplus from Boeing.
> here is an example of such an item:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aircraft-tool-Cogsdill-Burraway-Hole-Deburr-Tool_W0QQitemZ7580217685QQcategoryZ109559QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> I do not know this lister and cannot give any
> recomendation other than you will use the two smallest
> sizes frequently and the next two sizes occaisionally.
>
> Steve 40212 wings
>
> --- "Robert G. Wright"
> wrote:
>
>> VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
>>
>> 14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
>>
>> PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 *
>> www.vansaircraft.com *
>> info(at)vansaircraft.com
>>
>> Service letter: January 9, 2006
>>
>> Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
>>
>> Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
>>
>> It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that
>> some of the main gear axle
>> nuts
>>
>> supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since November
>> of 2005 have threads
>> that
>>
>> are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
>>
>> * If you have axle nuts that will not readily screw
>> onto the main gear
>> axles,
>>
>> please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement units.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> #392
>>
>> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tail kit is here!!!! |
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a new shop, I have
ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot one mile from my house.
Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday due to
the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage system, and the
first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are some awesome sites
out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong man
stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit
belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust
and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again
and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows, in
the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if he fails, at
least he fails while daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
The plans state that we can remove material from the inboard and
outboard top wing skins where they overlap in order to make a more
aesthetically pleasing joint. I'm concerned about ruining an
otherwise great pair of skins attempting to do this. Can anyone
discuss in detail why you chose to do this... or not to do this...
and how it went if you did?
Thanks,
Jeff Carpenter
40304
... about to skin me some wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Posted 9 Jan 06 |
Jeff,
Many people have complained that the #40 cuts too
aggressively. Be sure to adjust the tension spring so
there is just enough pressure to return the blade
after you depress it with your finger. Second, use a
cordless drill so it is not turning too fast. Watch it
turn 1 1/2 to 2 revolutions on the top side and then
spend the same amount of time on the back side, you
will get the "rhythm". Test it, practice and adjust it
on some scrap material.
Good luck
Steve 40210
--- Jeff Dalton wrote:
>
>
> I found a set on eBay for $20. Have not tried them
> yet.
>
> TAIL KIT IS AT THE SHIPPING DEPOT!!!!
> Unfortunately, they're closed until
> Tuesday
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:35 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
>
>
>
> >
> > Rob,
> >
> > Try a Cogsdill burraway. You can find them
> > consistently on E-bay. Be forewarned you may have
> to
> > tinker with the adjustment especially with the
> #40.
> > However once it is set I rarely need to readjust
> (only
> > if I have changed to deburring a different
> thickness
> > of material).
> >
> > Some people really like them and others do not. I
> > personally would consider this an essential tool
> > because it cuts the deburring time by 2/3. Most of
> the
> > used tools you find on E-bay are surplus from
> Boeing.
> > here is an example of such an item:
> >
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/aircraft-tool-Cogsdill-Burraway-Hole-Deburr-Tool_W0QQitemZ7580217685QQcategoryZ109559QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > I do not know this lister and cannot give any
> > recomendation other than you will use the two
> smallest
> > sizes frequently and the next two sizes
> occaisionally.
> >
> > Steve 40212 wings
> >
> > --- "Robert G. Wright"
> > wrote:
> >
> >> VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC.
> >>
> >> 14401 NE Keil Road, Aurora, Oregon, USA 97002
> >>
> >> PHONE 503-678-6545 * FAX 503-678-6560 *
> >> www.vansaircraft.com *
> >> info(at)vansaircraft.com
> >>
> >> Service letter: January 9, 2006
> >>
> >> Subject: Main Gear Axle Nuts
> >>
> >> Affected Models: ONLY RV-10 main gear axle nuts
> >>
> >> It has come the attention of Van's Aircraft that
> >> some of the main gear axle
> >> nuts
> >>
> >> supplied in finish kits for the RV-10 since
> November
> >> of 2005 have threads
> >> that
> >>
> >> are not cut deep enough to allow for their use.
> >>
> >> * If you have axle nuts that will not readily
> screw
> >> onto the main gear
> >> axles,
> >>
> >> please contact Van's Aircraft for replacement
> units.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> #392
> >>
> >> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
Jeff,
What I did was mark the overlap with a marker while
the skins are mounted together for match drilling on
the wing assembly (I still had the plastic on). Then I
cut off the plastic +1/8" as a guide with the
soldering iron, on the side that gets beveled only to
avoid confusion (leaving the plastic on the opposite
side). Then clamp a 1x8" pine board (with a sharp
edge) exactly under the edge of the wing skin (to
support it while sanding) and clamp the whole thing to
your bench so it doesn't move around. Then I used an
electric orbital Sander with 80 grit alum oxide paper,
hold the sander at a slight and consistent angle and
make a pass the full width of the skin and back. Hold
the edge of the sander along the edge of the plastic
and sand from that point to the edge. Always go the
full width so that a consistent amount is removed at
each point along the width. If I remember it took 10
or 20 minutes per skin. It doesn't go too fast and you
can see the (slow) progress quite easily.
Steve 40212
--- Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
>
> The plans state that we can remove material from the
> inboard and
> outboard top wing skins where they overlap in order
> to make a more
> aesthetically pleasing joint. I'm concerned about
> ruining an
> otherwise great pair of skins attempting to do this.
> Can anyone
> discuss in detail why you chose to do this... or not
> to do this...
> and how it went if you did?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> ... about to skin me some wings
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
Jeff,
I did remove some material from the overlap but was'nt too aggressive.
Masked off the areas of the overlap and went at it. I used a combination of
files and Scotchbrite wheels. I did bend the outboard skin edge slightly
and ended up with a good result. Make sure to alodine or prime the area
since all the alclad will be stripped away. I probably thinned the inboard
skin a bit more than the outboard since it's thicker to start with. That
being said, I was even less aggressive on the bottom skins, slight working
with the Scotchbrite and a bend in the outboard edge, and they looked pretty
good also. Be careful how much you work the aluminum 'cause you will
stretch it a bit, particularly with the Scotchbrite wheels.
None of this is required of course, it's only for esthetics, and body
filler and high fill primer will give you a good final result when its
painted if you want the joint very smooth. I wouldn't get too crazy about
it.....john
John Hasbrouck
#40264 wings closed!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Scott,
G'Day mate! Dave is working on PayPal. Hopefully, he'll have it up on his web site soon. www.rivethead-aero.com
I enclosed a picture of the bracket riveted onto the trim tab cover plate.
Zack
[quote="rv10(at)tpg.com.au"]G'day,
Any ordering options for those of us in other countries?
Thanks,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
zackrv8 wrote:
>
>
> Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor Brackets
with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled from
6061 billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
>
> Zack
>
>
>
>
>
> Dick Sipp wrote:
> > Zack:
> > ?
> > Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
> > ?
> > Thanks
> > ?
> > Dick Sipp
> > 40065
> > do not achieve
> >
> >
>
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4259#4259
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03924_213.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lap Joint Top Wing Skins |
I used the tip from Tim Olsen's web site, and used an orbital sander. It
took a while, which is probably a good thing, to get the taper, I did
both the inboard and the outboard edges at the same time so as to be
able to cleco them togehter for test fits. (the 1st and 2nd fits were
not thin enough). Another Builder, Bill Curtis, ordered fresh .032
alclad and then copied the holes from Van's parts to make a single
seamless top skin.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> The plans state that we can remove material from the inboard and
> outboard top wing skins where they overlap in order to make a more
> aesthetically pleasing joint. I'm concerned about ruining an
> otherwise great pair of skins attempting to do this. Can anyone
> discuss in detail why you chose to do this... or not to do this...
> and how it went if you did?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> ... about to skin me some wings
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Tail kit is here!!!! |
Jeff,
Welcome to the club!!! I've been using ExperCraft for my website. It's
very easy to use and seems to cover all the bases.
Check it out if you like: http://websites.expercraft.com/seanb
Good luck and have fun.
Sean Blair
#40225
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 1:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a new shop, I
have ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot one mile from my
house. Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday
due to the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage system, and
the first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are some
awesome sites out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong
man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The
credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred
by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up
short again and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the
best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst,
if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
Zack, will we need to order new cover plates if we've already got holes
drilled for the stock pieces???
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
>
> Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor
> Brackets with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled
> from 6061 billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
>
> Zack
>
>
> [quote="Dick Sipp"]Zack:
> ?
> Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
> ?
> Thanks
> ?
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
> do not achieve
>
>> ---
>
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4058#4058
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone |
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I'm using the cogsdills and I readjust my #40
almost every time I get to a deburring step. I think that as long as you
don't "get used" to the tension and continually adjust it, you'll do fine.
I do, however, use it at a faster rate than I believe most do; I just try to
keep the contact time down as I insert and remove the tool through the hole.
After reading my original post I guess I wasn't general enough. I was
actually asking for tips for the rest of the tailcone build past the
deburring stage. I'll hopefully get my static air kit ordered from safeair
tomorrow (Monday) if they're open. Will I need more than the supplied
connectors/tee fittings for my single AHRS GRT/480/backup airspeed/Trutrack
DFC planned installation?
Rob
#392
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Posted 9 Jan 06
Jeff,
Many people have complained that the #40 cuts too
aggressively. Be sure to adjust the tension spring so
there is just enough pressure to return the blade
after you depress it with your finger. Second, use a
cordless drill so it is not turning too fast. Watch it
turn 1 1/2 to 2 revolutions on the top side and then
spend the same amount of time on the back side, you
will get the "rhythm". Test it, practice and adjust it
on some scrap material.
> >>
> >> Rob
> >>
> >> #392
> >>
> >> Deburring Tailcone (any hints in this step?)
> >>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
william(at)gbta.net wrote:
> Zack, will we need to order new cover plates if we've already got holes
> drilled for the stock pieces???
>
> Bill Britton
>
> ---
Bill, Yes. The new bracket is wider than Van's W-412 and the hole pattern is wider.
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4347#4347
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone |
| From: | "LarryRosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
You will need lots of #40 clecos to complete the tailcone. Never counted how many
but just look at some of the photos on the web of the tailcone clecoed together.
Here is one of mine
Watch the rivet size recommendations. I needed to use some fractional size rivets
to connect F-1029 R&L to F-1037 B&C (used AN470AD4-4.5) and I used AN426AD3-4.5
to connect the side skin to the bottom of the rear bottom skin (page 10-21
and 10-25). A list of most of the alternate rivet sizes is on my site here
.
Follow the instructions on drill size when drilling the longerons. They do eventually
get drilled out to final size #40.
--------
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4354#4354
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone |
Larry,
Can you tell me about how many fractional rivets I will need? I'm about to
make and order. Thanks!
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone
>
> You will need lots of #40 clecos to complete the tailcone. Never counted
> how many but just look at some of the photos on the web of the tailcone
> clecoed together. Here is one of mine
> Watch the rivet size recommendations. I needed to use some fractional
> size rivets to connect F-1029 R&L to F-1037 B&C (used AN470AD4-4.5) and I
> used AN426AD3-4.5 to connect the side skin to the bottom of the rear
> bottom skin (page 10-21 and 10-25). A list of most of the alternate rivet
> sizes is on my site here .
> Follow the instructions on drill size when drilling the longerons. They
> do eventually get drilled out to final size #40.
>
> --------
> Larry Rosen
> #40356
> N205EN (reserved)
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4354#4354
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone |
When working on the empennage kit I found that for some of the 470 AD
rivets specified were slightly too short and the next full size rivet
was too long. I put my empennage together at Alexander Technical Center
(Builder Assistance). They had some 470 AD 4-4.5 and 470 AD 4-5.5
rivets that I used in these locations. Vans does not stock these rivet
sizes. You can, however, either cut down rivets to make these or
Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company <http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com>
has them. I would think that there are other aircraft hardware
companies that would also stock them.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Jeff Dalton wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
> Can you tell me about how many fractional rivets I will need? I'm
> about to make and order. Thanks!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Tail kit is here!!!! |
Take the time you would spend on the web site and use it to either kiss your
wife/significant other or build airplane. Those type of diversions can suck
a lot of time away from the objective.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a new shop, I
have ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot one mile from my
house. Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday
due to the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage system, and
the first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are some
awesome sites out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong
man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The
credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred
by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up
short again and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the
best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst,
if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail kit is here!!!! |
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
I'm going to let my significant other take care of the web site. She's a
hell of a lot better at it than I am. Plus, it will keep her in tune to
the build when she's not bucking rivets.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Specketer
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 1:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Take the time you would spend on the web site and use it to either kiss
your wife/significant other or build airplane. Those type of diversions
can suck a lot of time away from the objective.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:53 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a
new shop, I have ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot
one mile from my house. Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are
closed until Tuesday due to the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage
system, and the first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are
some awesome sites out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how
the strong man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them
better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena,
whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly,
who errs and comes up short again and again ... who spends himself in a
worthy cause; who, at the best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high
achievement, and who at worst, if he fails, at least he fails while
daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail kit is here!!!! |
| From: | Rob Riggen <rob(at)riggen.org> |
Try ExperCraft:
http://www.expercraft.com
It's simple to use and can keep track of your project time and expenses
and it creates a site automatically.
It's free!
Rob
Rob Riggen
RV-7 empennage
http://websites.expercraft.com/rriggen
> Take the time you would spend on the web site and use it to either
> kiss your wife/significant other or build airplane. Those type of
> diversions can suck a lot of time away from the objective.
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Jeff Dalton
> Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:53 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
>
>
> Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building
> a new shop, I have ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF
> Freight Depot one mile from my house. Unfortunately it came
> on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday due to the MKL
> Holiday here in Michigan.
>
> Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
>
> I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop,
> storage system, and the first building photos soon.
>
> Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There
> are some awesome sites out there!
>
> Jeff Dalton
> (starting tail)
> 40544
>
> "It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out
> how the strong man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could
> have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is
> actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat
> and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short
> again and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who,
> at the best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high
> achievement, and who at worst, if he fails, at least he fails
> while daring greatly."
>
> Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit is here!!!! |
Messagethanks. I guess I'm a chronic overachiever.
I was hoping to use the web site as a builders log. might as well do it all at
once.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Specketer
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 2:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Take the time you would spend on the web site and use it to either kiss your
wife/significant other or build airplane. Those type of diversions can suck a
lot of time away from the objective.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:53 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a new shop, I
have ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot one mile from my house.
Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday due
to the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage system, and
the first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are some awesome
sites out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong
man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit
belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust
and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again
and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows,
in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if he fails,
at least he fails while daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail kit is here!!!! |
Messagewish I could. I'm the programmer in the family though ... just looking
for ideas to short-circuit the process is all.
----- Original Message -----
From: BPA
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 2:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
I'm going to let my significant other take care of the web site. She's a hell
of a lot better at it than I am. Plus, it will keep her in tune to the build
when she's not bucking rivets.
Allen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Specketer
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 1:09 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Take the time you would spend on the web site and use it to either kiss your
wife/significant other or build airplane. Those type of diversions can suck a
lot of time away from the objective.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 3:53 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Tail kit is here!!!!
Well, after reading for a year, gathering tools, and building a new shop, I
have ordered my tail kit and it's at the ABF Freight Depot one mile from my house.
Unfortunately it came on Saturday and they are closed until Tuesday due
to the MKL Holiday here in Michigan.
Shipping time to MI was 5 days and the shipping cost was $265.
I'll be putting up a website with photos of my new shop, storage system, and
the first building photos soon.
Any recommendations for how to approach the web site? There are some awesome
sites out there!
Jeff Dalton
(starting tail)
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong
man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit
belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust
and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again
and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows,
in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if he fails,
at least he fails while daring greatly."
Pres. Teddy Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I have found that a rivet cutter and a few ounces of -10 lengths of AN426AD3 &
4 and AN470AD3 & 4 have been really handy. OOPs rivets that can be cut to size
have also been useful on occasion.
cheers,
Ron
#187 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Tuesday, 17 January 2006 2:55 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: REtry: Cogsdills/tailcone
When working on the empennage kit I found that for some of the 470 AD
rivets specified were slightly too short and the next full size rivet
was too long. I put my empennage together at Alexander Technical Center
(Builder Assistance). They had some 470 AD 4-4.5 and 470 AD 4-5.5
rivets that I used in these locations. Vans does not stock these rivet
sizes. You can, however, either cut down rivets to make these or
Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company <http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com>
has them. I would think that there are other aircraft hardware
companies that would also stock them.
Larry Rosen
N205EN (reserved)
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Jeff Dalton wrote:
>
> Larry,
>
> Can you tell me about how many fractional rivets I will need? I'm
> about to make and order. Thanks!
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
After having enjoyed my first encounter with proseal to put the rudder
edge together, I would like to know how long the mixed product will
last. I see that the elelvators will need some proseal. Will I have to
buy another tube only to use a minimal amount? I put it back in the
refrigerator to store.
Also,
Is our builder number the number of RV 10's that are in production? eg
515 for me?
Fred Williams
empenage
40515.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
Once mixed - it's done
I used the tube but separated the tubes and tried to use the same ratio
as the tube would - then kept the un-mixed tubes refrigerated. Good
going on 9 months.
Byron #40253 Fuselage doors.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
Williams, M.D.
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 question
<drfred@cox-internet.com>
After having enjoyed my first encounter with proseal to put the rudder
edge together, I would like to know how long the mixed product will
last. I see that the elelvators will need some proseal. Will I have to
buy another tube only to use a minimal amount? I put it back in the
refrigerator to store.
Also,
Is our builder number the number of RV 10's that are in production? eg
515 for me?
Fred Williams
empenage
40515.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV 10 question |
Fred,
According to Van's RV-10 Builders Manual page 5-8, "Mixed, unused
sealant may be kept in the freezer up to 4 days."
Buy some more new. Why risk your project for a $20 tube of sealant?
-Jim 40384
Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
> <drfred@cox-internet.com>
>
> After having enjoyed my first encounter with proseal to put the rudder
> edge together, I would like to know how long the mixed product will
> last. I see that the elelvators will need some proseal. Will I have
> to buy another tube only to use a minimal amount? I put it back in
> the refrigerator to store.
>
> Also,
> Is our builder number the number of RV 10's that are in production?
> eg 515 for me? Fred Williams
> empenage
> 40515.
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
Fred,
I don't know the answer to you question regarding mixed proseal, but I
suspect you're going to need to be working fast on the elevator if you've
mixed it all already. If you get another tube, I just cut holes in each
section and squeezed out what I needed for the job. It worked for the
rudder and elevators and I still have some left over.
As for the builder number, yes, the 40 indicates RV-10s followed by number
of kits sold.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV 10 question
<drfred@cox-internet.com>
After having enjoyed my first encounter with proseal to put the rudder
edge together, I would like to know how long the mixed product will
last. I see that the elelvators will need some proseal. Will I have to
buy another tube only to use a minimal amount? I put it back in the
refrigerator to store.
Also,
Is our builder number the number of RV 10's that are in production? eg
515 for me?
Fred Williams
empenage
40515.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Putting on the top question |
I am ready to permanently install the top and have a question for those that
have completed this stage. I plan to put in a fabric headliner, but haven't
quite picked out the color scheme/material. The plans recommend
painting/installing liners prior to putting on the lid, but that would cause
me a significant delay (and I'm not terribly patient when it comes to big
progress moments like this). Am I going to really regret not doing certain
prep work, or is it a minor inconvenience to do later.
One other thing I noted that is causing me to go this direction, it
looks like I'll just be scratching the paint even more around the forward
bulkhead during the final install so I'm hesitant to get too far on the
finish work.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286 - It's really starting to look like an airplane!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Subaru H-6 Eggenfellner conversion |
Is anoyne out there planning an Eggenfellner Subaru H-6 Engine? If so, i
would like to talk with you off system/line. Please give me a shout at
millstees(at)ameritech.net.
Thanks
Steve Mills
40486, just about to start wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
>
> Contact Dave at 302-437-6087. He made up a bunch of Trim Tab Cable Anchor
Brackets with the new 15 degree angle. Again, this bracket is CNC milled
from 6061 billet. Dave said it is 3 times stronger than Vans' part.
>
> Zack
>
>
> [quote="Dick Sipp"]Zack:
> ?
> Please re-post Dave's contact info for ordering.
> ?
> Thanks
> ?
> Dick Sipp
> 40065
> do not achieve
>
> > ---
>
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4058#4058
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu> |
| Subject: | Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
Listers,
I've fabricated a pretty inexpensive cabin door lock for my RV-10. It
seems to work well.
Photos and text are at my web page,
<http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a>. Scroll down near the bottom, and
click the "Door Locks" link.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the 3rd lock for
the passenger side?
Another door lock solution is by Palle Olesen here <http://www.rv10.dk/>
to the bottom of the page. Not as simple as Tim's.
Larry Rosen
#40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I've fabricated a pretty inexpensive cabin door lock for my RV-10. It
> seems to work well.
>
> Photos and text are at my web page,
> <http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a>. Scroll down near the bottom,
> and click the "Door Locks" link.
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
I had the same thought. One possibility would be to have a simple lock on
the inside (2x4 against the handle ;) ) and only have a true external
accessible lock on the pilot's side.
Marcus
I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the 3rd lock for
the passenger side?
Another door lock solution is by Palle Olesen here <http://www.rv10.dk/>
to the bottom of the page. Not as simple as Tim's.
Larry Rosen
#40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> I've fabricated a pretty inexpensive cabin door lock for my RV-10. It
> seems to work well.
>
> Photos and text are at my web page,
> <http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a>. Scroll down near the bottom,
> and click the "Door Locks" link.
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TimRvator(at)comcast.net (Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu) |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Larry Rosen LarryRosen(at)comcast.net
> I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the 3rd lock for
> the passenger side?
I plan to lock the passenger door from inside only -- no external lock.
One very simple method would be to drill a pair of vertically-oriented holes through
the interior door handle on the forward, outboard corner. To lock the door,
drop a bolt or nail thru the hole pair. This would prevent the latch from
being pressed, so the handle could not be rotated.
Tim Lewis
RV-6 N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 N31TD (reserved)
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Larry Rosen LarryRosen(at)comcast.net
I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the
3rd lock for
the passenger side?
I plan to lock the passenger door from inside only -- no external lock.
One very simple method would be to drill a pair of vertically-oriented holes through
the interior door handle on the forward, outboard corner. To lock the door,
drop a bolt or nail thru the hole pair. This would prevent the latch from
being pressed, so the handle could not be rotated.
Tim Lewis
RV-6 N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 N31TD (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Putting on the top question |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Marcus,
I would do as much sanding/filling on the top interior as possible
before installing permanently. If you're going to paint the interior
top, I'd also do that before installing. If you're going with a
headliner and the surface prep is finished, it won't be too bad to
install later. You will be dealing with Proseal (aft cabin top to
tailcone interface), epoxy (door frame to cabin side interface + misc),
window adhesive and some interior paint after installing the top - lot's
of opportunity for a headliner to get damaged. It's probably easier to
avoid than protect.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 5:39 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Putting on the top question
I am ready to permanently install the top and have a question for those
that
have completed this stage. I plan to put in a fabric headliner, but
haven't
quite picked out the color scheme/material. The plans recommend
painting/installing liners prior to putting on the lid, but that would
cause
me a significant delay (and I'm not terribly patient when it comes to
big
progress moments like this). Am I going to really regret not doing
certain
prep work, or is it a minor inconvenience to do later.
One other thing I noted that is causing me to go this direction,
it
looks like I'll just be scratching the paint even more around the
forward
bulkhead during the final install so I'm hesitant to get too far on the
finish work.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286 - It's really starting to look like an airplane!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
About those locks with identical keys. Some one has already posted several months
ago about a source in WA. I bought three packages with two locks in each all
identically keyed for $20 total. Identical to the aviation lock except the retaining
washer for the inside. We will fab a washer or glue the locknut in place.
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 6:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Larry Rosen LarryRosen(at)comcast.net
> I like the solution. Now where are you going to get the 3rd lock for
> the passenger side?
I plan to lock the passenger door from inside only -- no external lock.
One very simple method would be to drill a pair of vertically-oriented holes
through the interior door handle on the forward, outboard corner. To lock the
door, drop a bolt or nail thru the hole pair. This would prevent the latch from
being pressed, so the handle could not be rotated.
Tim Lewis
RV-6 N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 N31TD (reserved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There
is a place that saw the need for a better RV-10 latch
system and they sent me and a couple other
builders some photos. I asked if I could repost
to the list and got the green light, so here you go.
I only wish I had known about these while I was doing
the doors, but now I'll just fly as-is and then
this summer see if I can retrofit these.
Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the
individual emails:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
I can't see it getting any better than this.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
---------------
Hi
We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
with an over centre lock.
They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
Please see attached photos.
For any inquiries please email us on info(at)cossaviation.com. Please let
us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
Ashley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you compare it to the
total cost of the project, I guess. Just last night I was looking over some
of the builder websites at interiors and hoping that someone would come up
with a better looking/functioning door handle than the stock vans pieces. I
guess my wish came true. Now, onto the bigger wishes.....
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone parts
#40137
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
> This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There
> is a place that saw the need for a better RV-10 latch
> system and they sent me and a couple other
> builders some photos. I asked if I could repost
> to the list and got the green light, so here you go.
> I only wish I had known about these while I was doing
> the doors, but now I'll just fly as-is and then
> this summer see if I can retrofit these.
>
> Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the
> individual emails:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
>
> I can't see it getting any better than this.
>
> --
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> ---------------
> Hi
>
> We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
>
> They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
> with an over centre lock.
>
> They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
>
> Please see attached photos.
>
> For any inquiries please email us on info(at)cossaviation.com. Please let
> us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
>
> Ashley
> --------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
For $350 it should provide a method to lock the doors. IMHP
Bobby
40116
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There is a place that
saw the need for a better RV-10 latch system and they sent me and a
couple other builders some photos. I asked if I could repost to the
list and got the green light, so here you go.
I only wish I had known about these while I was doing the doors, but now
I'll just fly as-is and then this summer see if I can retrofit these.
Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the individual emails:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
I can't see it getting any better than this.
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
---------------
Hi
We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
with an over centre lock.
They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
Please see attached photos.
For any inquiries please email us on info(at)cossaviation.com. Please let
us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
Ashley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
For $350, I wish I had an affiliation with them....
They know these don't need to be TSO'd right?
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | ECI Titan Cylinders Not Affected |
I just received email clarification from ECI regarding
the current 1/2006 issue affecting Classic Cast cylinders.
I wanted to verify that Titan cylinders are not affected.
They verified that this is true. So, my new Aerosport
IO-540 and all others built with new ECI Titan Cylinders
should not be affected by any issues currently known.
I thought this might be good news/info. to post to the
group.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only about 1/2
of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for such a component.
Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per side, $700 per plane
without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door handles for Mooneys are as
pricey, but there is the added burden of certification. Just as a comparison,
a certified Andair fuel valve is about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it? Some will
think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
While on the subject of cabin doors, i've noticed that the 10 door seems to feel
flimsy, it does not feel as stable or solid as perhaps that of a Cirrus. I
realize weight is a factor.
Any thoughts
Regards - Paul Walter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ; Ask the
people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only about
1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for such a component.
Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per side, $700 per plane
without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door handles for Mooneys are as pricey,
but there is the added burden of certification. Just as a comparison, a
certified Andair fuel valve is about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it? Some will
think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
Hey everyone,
I'm getting close to working on the firewall and wonder if there is anything
different about the deburring process. Do I still use the same Scotchbrite
wheels and other stuff?
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
ALLCON:
I was planning on making some of our avionics wiring a little modular by using
some terminal strips. I wanted to use something a little more sophisticated than
just the exposed-screw-head type of terminal strips, but haven't found anything
good yet in the Mouser catalog. Anyone got any suggestions?
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
EDMO has grounding blocks from 15-37 pin.
Noel 325HP flying FAST building more!!!
www.blueskyaviation.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: terminal strips
ALLCON:
I was planning on making some of our avionics wiring a little modular by
using some terminal strips. I wanted to use something a little more
sophisticated than just the exposed-screw-head type of terminal strips, but
haven't found anything good yet in the Mouser catalog. Anyone got any
suggestions?
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
I was certain I read about someone, somehow, making the Van's window
glue thick as peanut butter, so it would be easier to handle.
Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
> We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
> Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
>
> In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural
> adhesive. However, there are lots of them out there with different
> characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
> hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as
> rubber. Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less
> prone to cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro
> balloons but you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion
> and contraction of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
>
>
> Jeremy P. Harris
> Integrated Missile Defense
> BMDS Architectures Lab
>
> The Boeing Company
> Washington, DC
> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
> Cell: (703) 627-6500
> Fax: (703) 414-6372
> MC: 793C-G007
> Office: 825B
>
>
>
> From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
>
> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows?
> Is that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will
> it work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System
> epoxy, and return the window glue to Van's?
>
> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>
>>
>>Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to use and is
>>available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast (30 min),
>>slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and cotton flox
>>seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well for
>>filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>
>>
>>Jeremy P. Harris
>>Integrated Missile Defense
>>BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>>The Boeing Company
>>Washington, DC
>>Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>>Cell: (703) 627-6500
>>Fax: (703) 414-6372
>>MC: 793C-G007
>>Office: 825B
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org]
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>
>>We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't use Van's
>>recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder recommended.
>>It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to work
>>really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear, than the
>>stuff that Van's sells.
>>
>>Jesse Saint
>>I-TEC, Inc.
>>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>>www.itecusa.org
>>Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>>I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
>>please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
>>me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but
>>it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow
>>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>
>>I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for the
>>windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was used?
>>Sam Marlow
>>Fuse RV10
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
But what about the windshield, it's epoxied in with several layers of
glass cloth to the boot cowl. Aren't all RV windshield attached the same
way?
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> I think the contraction and expansion issue is everything with regards
> to canopies, they expand and contract a HUGE amount.
>
> John
>
>
>> From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
>> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> To:
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>> Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 12:13:47 -0800
>>
>> We haven't used West epoxy to install the windows. Not that far yet.
>> Will probably consider the Lancair stuff referenced below...
>>
>> In general - the West System epoxy is a pretty good structural adhesive.
>> However, there are lots of them out there with different
>> characteristics. Some epoxies allow you to mix different ratios of
>> hardener and resin to get cures as hard as a rock or pliable as rubber.
>> Adding a matrix like cotton flocks just makes the epoxy less prone to
>> cracking. However, the finish isn't as nice as with micro balloons but
>> you trade finish for strength. The note about expansion and contraction
>> of the plexi is definitely worth considering...
>>
>>
>> Jeremy P. Harris
>> Integrated Missile Defense
>> BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>> The Boeing Company
>> Washington, DC
>> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>> Cell: (703) 627-6500
>> Fax: (703) 414-6372
>> MC: 793C-G007
>> Office: 825B
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>>
>> From: Sam Marlow [mailto:sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net]
>> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 9:09 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>
>> Did you use the epoxy with the flocked cotton to install the windows? Is
>> that all that is used to thicken the epoxy, so it doesn't run? Will it
>> work with Van's window glue, or should I just use the West System epoxy,
>> and return the window glue to Van's?
>>
>> Harris, Jeremy P wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Another good epoxy out there is West Systems - really easy to
>> use and is
>> available at most marine supplies. The hardener comes in fast
>> (30 min),
>> slow (2hrs), and really slow (4-8hrs). Micro balloons and
>> cotton flox
>> seems to be great for thickening up. Micro balloons work well
>> for
>> filleting. Cotton worked well for strengthening joints.
>>
>>
>> Jeremy P. Harris
>> Integrated Missile Defense
>> BMDS Architectures Lab
>>
>> The Boeing Company
>> Washington, DC
>> Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
>> Cell: (703) 627-6500
>> Fax: (703) 414-6372
>> MC: 793C-G007
>> Office: 825B
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jesse Saint [mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org]
>> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 12:18 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>
>>
>> We used micro balloons or flocked cotton fiber, but we didn't
>> use Van's
>> recommended glue. We used something that a Lancair builder
>> recommended.
>> It is called FE6026 Parts A & B (part #02-00043). It seems to
>> work
>> really well and is much easier to deal with, from what I hear,
>> than the
>> stuff that Van's sells.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> I-TEC, Inc.
>> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>> www.itecusa.org
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions
>> regarding I-TEC,
>> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
>> talk to
>> me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be
>> on, but
>> it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam
>> Marlow
>> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:31 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Windows
>>
>>
>>
>> I remember reading a post about someone thickening the glue for
>> the
>> windows, making it like peanut butter. Anybody recall what was
>> used?
>> Sam Marlow
>> Fuse RV10
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
Tim,
Can you give the dimensions of your LOCK for the RV 10 door? Size of hole in door.........length
of cam lock........length of locking bar..............etc.
I have seen several locks like this on office furniture.........desk drawers,
file cabinets, curio cabinets........etc.
Thanks,
DEAN
Tim,
Can you give the dimensions of your LOCK for the RV 10 door? Size of hole in door.........length
of cam lock........length of locking bar..............etc. I
have seen several locks like this on office furniture.........desk drawers, file
cabinets, curio cabinets........etc.
Thanks,
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=3Dgo_camlk#
DEAN
Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=3Dgo_camlk#
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
I mentioned this a while ago on the list, but wasn't sure if it would
work for a door lock. I'm not familiar with Zinc in relation to
corrosion, so not sure about that. I was planning on attempting to use
this for the baggage door lock, but it may be reasonable for a door lock
also? I like the idea of a combination as opposed to a key as I am
prone to loosing them. :)
<http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
Comments?
-Sean #40303 (Not far enough along to think *too* hard about locks yet)
http://rv10.stephensville.com
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
>
> http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=go_camlk#
>
>
>
> DEAN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as I was expecting
after some of the conversations on the lists. Just one question though.
How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does it stay rubbery or does it harden???
I've got one trailing edge skin that got a little wavy when edge rolling
it and I want to be sure the proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps
from it (don't want the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow
up)
Sorry for the lame question,
Bill Britton
RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture, but it
does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able to be
deformed without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing time depends
on how much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly it was mixed,
and the temperature in which it cures. If it cured @ room temperature
(70 degrees +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours before removing any
clamps, and preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at a cooler temperature I
would extend the time considerably (e.g. when leak testing my fuel tanks
I waited 3+ weeks to make sure everytning was cured befor applying any
pressure) 9OK so it helped that i had lots of other things to do in the
meantime).
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as I
> was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists. Just one
> question though. How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does it
> stay rubbery or does it harden??? I've got one trailing edge skin
> that got a little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the
> proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want
> the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)
>
> Sorry for the lame question,
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Inexpensive RV-10 Cabin Door Lock |
I like the combination lock idea, as I share in the lost-key syndrome.
It appears that the lock protrudes quite away out from the surface, and
that's a bit of a turnoff for me. don't have a clue as to zinc's
corrosive properties.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings (Fuse arrived today !!!!!!!! :-) )
http://deemsrv10.com/
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I mentioned this a while ago on the list, but wasn't sure if it would
> work for a door lock. I'm not familiar with Zinc in relation to
> corrosion, so not sure about that. I was planning on attempting to
> use this for the baggage door lock, but it may be reasonable for a
> door lock also? I like the idea of a combination as opposed to a key
> as I am prone to loosing them. :)
>
> <http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=11231>
>
> Comments?
>
> -Sean #40303 (Not far enough along to think *too* hard about locks yet)
> http://rv10.stephensville.com
>
>
> ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Sorry,,,,,,,,forgot to include the website on my previous reply.
>>
>> http://www.mrlock.com/eshop/locks/mfg/esp/ulrcam.html?mv_pc=go_camlk#
>>
>>
>>
>> DEAN
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around..
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme
<http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme&project=1> &project=1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis(at)core.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only
about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for
such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per
side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it?
Some will think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Lewis <rv10(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
G'day,
I know the feeling. The amount of money I have dispatched overseas,
mostly to the US, is more than I care to admit to.
I, for one, would be interested in what you can offer.
Kind Regards,
Scott Lewis
RV-10 40172
Adelaide, South Australia
Henkjan van der Zouw wrote:
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because its a necessity over here, if there are people who dont have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fire Wall Connectors |
| From: | "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com> |
Anyone find a good supplier for high temp, environmentally rated,
vibration rated, firewall circular bulkhead mount connectors? I'm
thinking Amphenol but a little wary of the price per connector ($100+
ea). Any recommendations? We presently have some plastic AMP
connectors but they are only rated to 300 degrees F and are not
environmentally sealed. I'm looking for 16 contacts per circular
connector, #18 wire each. Anyone have any good ideas?
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build a better
mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very quickly.
And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical boundaries.
Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those door handles
a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of character with
the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got a more elegant locking
design for the price you mention, count me in.
-Dan Masys
70238 and 40448
Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
inside.
Bob K
40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build a
better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
boundaries.
Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got a
more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
-Dan Masys
70238 and 40448
Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>
> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Before too many folks jump on this, let's also remember that Andair is
in the UK and many of us do business with them.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van
der Zouw
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around....
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=3Dphzme&project=3D1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis(at)core.com>
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
=09
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts
to only about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high
for such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350
per side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
=09
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however
worth it? Some will think so, but I think many will not.
=09
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
Thanks Deems. That's all I needed to know. I brought the elevators into my
house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps. I'll leave them for probably 3
days and check them out.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Proseal
>
> Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture, but it
> does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able to be deformed
> without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing time depends on how
> much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly it was mixed, and the
> temperature in which it cures. If it cured @ room temperature (70 degrees
> +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours before removing any clamps, and
> preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at a cooler temperature I would extend
> the time considerably (e.g. when leak testing my fuel tanks I waited 3+
> weeks to make sure everytning was cured befor applying any pressure) 9OK
> so it helped that i had lots of other things to do in the meantime).
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Wings
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
>
>> My first bout with the proseal went pretty good. Not near as bad as I
>> was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists. Just one
>> question though. How do I know when it is done "curing"??? Does it stay
>> rubbery or does it harden??? I've got one trailing edge skin that got a
>> little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the proseal is
>> fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want the proseal
>> coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)
>> Sorry for the lame question,
>> Bill Britton
>> RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Just an update for you all...
Today I got an email again from them regarding the lock. I posted it
on the same page at:
http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
Apparently the latch is lockable, using the standard Van's keylock.
With the offering by Henkjan, the competition is heating up, which
is a good thing.
Anyway, it's worth reading their note.
Tim
---
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
> Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
>
>>
>> For $350 it should provide a method to lock the doors. IMHP
>>
>> Bobby
>> 40116
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 8:45 AM
>> To: RV10
>> Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> This a.m. I had something WAY cool in my inbox. There is a place that
>> saw the need for a better RV-10 latch system and they sent me and a
>> couple other builders some photos. I asked if I could repost to the
>> list and got the green light, so here you go.
>> I only wish I had known about these while I was doing the doors, but now
>> I'll just fly as-is and then this summer see if I can retrofit these.
>>
>> Here's a link on my site for those who don't get the individual emails:
>>
>> http://www.myrv10.com/miscphotos/DoorLatch/cosslatch.html
>>
>> I can't see it getting any better than this.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------------
>> Hi
>>
>> We have developed door latches to replace the existing Van's doorlocks.
>>
>> They have flush handles on the outside and low profile on the inside
>> with an over centre lock.
>>
>> They latches for the RV10 cost US$350 per side.
>>
>> Please see attached photos.
>>
>> For any inquiries please email us on info(at)cossaviation.com. Please let
>> us know if you would like to be subscribed to our Newsletter.
>>
>> Ashley
>> --------------
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: RV10 latches - more info |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Here's the response to my door latch inquiry yesterday - not much more
info except the statement that they will be locking.
I believe that there is truly an opportunity here for somebody to make
and sell an improved door latch mechanism that locks. I don't
personally think that being overseas is necessarily a barrier to market
entry. Many small companies also sell through the large distributors
like Aircraft Spruce and even Van's which should ease the mind of
anybody with a concern in that area. I just want to see something
that's well thought out, reasonably priced and actually available. It
seems like there's a large number of items being sold into the homebuilt
market that fall short in at least one of these areas...
Bob #40105
_____
From: Info Cossaviation [mailto:info(at)cossaviation.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:58 AM
Subject: RV10 latches - more info
Hi
The response to our RV10 latch has been amazing, so herewith the answers
to all your questions.
The photos we sent you were of the prototype latch. We are busy building
two RV10s at the moment, and next week, the latches will be fitted. Once
they have been fitted, I will be able to send you some more photographs.
After that, we will be carrying on any minor adjustments that need to be
done.
The latches are lockable, and the keylock is made to fit the ignition
set that comes from Van's Aircraft.
There should be a 2-4 week delivery period, and the price does not
include postage, as we are based in South Africa. This week, I will be
working on the most economical prices for delivery.
Our company provides a building service, specialising in Van's RV range,
Rotorway Exec helicopters and the Australian Spitfire Kit. You can check
out our website at www.cossaviation.com. We are aware that some of the
links etc are not working properly, as we are busy updating the website
at the moment. But, you will be able to see some photographs of our
previous projects.
We are also busy developing an interior kit for RV10s and we have
aluminium towbars for RV10s already developed.
Thank you once again, for all the interest you have shown in our
product.
Ashley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
With 100-150 EUR being $120-$185USD, I would be very interested,
especially if they were locking and better looking/streamlined then the
ones included in the kit.
Keep us posted, and I would bet you will get many orders. The RV
community on a whole is trustworthy, granted there are some that are
not, but I have luckily been able to avoid them.
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van
der Zouw
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around....
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=3Dphzme&project=3D1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis(at)core.com>
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
=09
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts
to only about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high
for such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350
per side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
=09
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however
worth it? Some will think so, but I think many will not.
=09
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Howe" <mikemb(at)aros.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Keep up the good work. I see that from your builder's log that you have
come up with some other ideas like the spacer between the elevator horn,
Though it has been awhile I remember that one as being no fun and your
idea sounds much better. I have finished my wings and Tailcone and have
got a good Start on my Fuselage. My website is at www.etigerrr.com
<http://www.etigerrr.com/>
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
With 100-150 EUR being $120-$185USD, I would be very interested,
especially if they were locking and better looking/streamlined then the
ones included in the kit.
Keep us posted, and I would bet you will get many orders. The RV
community on a whole is trustworthy, granted there are some that are
not, but I have luckily been able to avoid them.
Dan
40269
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van
der Zouw
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:39 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
around..
www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme
<http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme&project=1> &project=1
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
----- Original Message -----
From: William <mailto:wcurtis(at)core.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
>compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only
about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for
such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per
side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
about $300.
I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it?
Some will think so, but I think many will not.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
Point well taken about shopping around about any form of insurance. Never had
builder's insurance, so can't comment on what might be going on with insurers
for that type.
I can say that with the first annual NationAir renewal of my policy after the airplane
started flying, the insurance premium dropped from $760 to $724. So I
guess occasionally insurance goes down rather than up.
-Dan Masys
>
> Another data point: when dealing with builder's risk insurance I had no
> issues the first year. When renewal time came last summer Nationair
> quoted a huge price increase (Phoenix stopped writing policies) and was
> difficult to deal with. Interestingly I switched to another broker and
> got a significantly lower quote for the same coverage from the same
> companies. I never spent the time to figure out why the difference. My
> conclusion was that Nationair was unwilling and/or unable to work
> through the issue at the time.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I am interested.
Doug Preston
40372
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to
know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root.
What are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from
the root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both
the aluminum tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted on RV list" <ted_french(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Trim change during flap extension |
Listers
On my RV-6 I added two relays that operated when the flap motor was running.
One trimmed nose up, the other ran the trim nose down to compensate for the
tendency for the flaps to cause a trim change. They worked very well to
cancel out trim changes caused from the flaps being operated.
My question is... would this be useful on the RV-10. For those who are
flying, do youn experience a significant trim change when the flaps are
operated.
Ted French
RV-10 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Drill hole in Flap Motor |
A 1/16" hole needs to be drilled through the upper lip of the flap motor
to accept safety wire. Any hints or tips on the best way to do this?
Larry Rosen
#40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Are you sure you want the left hand door as the only operable from
outside??? there are scenarios where in a crash it may be necessary for
someone externally to open the right hand door for rescue
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
> inside.
>
> Bob K
> 40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
> Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build
> a
> better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
> quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
> boundaries.
>
> Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
> door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
> character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got
> a
> more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
>
> -Dan Masys
> 70238 and 40448
> Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
>
>
>> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
>> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
>> To:
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>
>>
>>
>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
Jim,
We are using the floats, but are using a Dynon EMS to monitor the tanks
through the floats. When you calibrate the Dynon, they have you put in a
gallon or two at a time and it gets the new reading from the float. Having
done it this way, and having a fuel flow meter to check, and a history of
filling the tanks and using exactly what the fuel flow said we had burned,
the floats are almost always accurate within a gallon or two. Couldn't help
any on actual gauges, though. I wouldn't even consider putting a non-EMS
(read - individual gauges for monitoring engine and fuel) in a plane like
this anyway.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy
Hi all!
Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an issue an RV-8
January 09, 2006 - January 18, 2006
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ax