RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ay
January 18, 2006 - February 02, 2006
builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds 22 Gallons, he uses
15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I don't have a gauge,
and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like to get half to be as
close to half as possible!
Questions:
1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your tank:
A) What is the resistance of your sending unit?
B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4, 1/4?)?
2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
a) 1/4
b) 1/2
c) 3/4
d) Full
Many thanks for replies!
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | center console access |
David,
We actually have cut the tunnel covers in two places, but one is forward of
the panel and hidden by our breaker/switch console (we had to have a place
to run wires down into the tunnel) and the other is between the seats under
our arm rest (again, mainly to run cables for headsets and rear seat power).
I think the rear section of the back panel can be removed without removing
the seats and both of the front sections can be removed.
Speaking of which, is it not annoying to anyone else that you have to remove
the flap control rod cover to remove the seats? About another 1/2" would
make the difference. That drives me crazy, as we have had to remove the
seat a number of times to add stuff under the panel (a guy my size doesn't
fit under the panel without removing the seat - if I want to be able to walk
afterwards).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: center console access
Anyone addressed the problem of removal of the center tunnel access after
the seats are in place. As the design currently exists, removing the center
covers requires removing the front seats to inspect the center tunnel.
clearance for four fasteners is grossly insufficient as designed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
I put the Gretz heated pitot in my -7, the instructions for which say you at least
need to have 6-8 inches of aluminum tubing close to the pitot, to reduce the
risk of plastic tubing melting from the heat. I thought it would be much more
'aviation quality' to run aluminum tubing all the way to the wing root, and
put a flared fitting there for both pitot and static lines. Turns out all of
that has been a constant nuisance and too complex for maintain easily. Now
I think the way to go is to just thread a continous run of plastic tubing for
the pitot all the way from behind the instrument panel out to a single union that
joins it to a little stub of aluminum tubing attached to the pitot. Forget
about fittings at the wing root. Any more than a minimal number of joints in
the line is just a leakage problem waiting to haunt you at transponder certification
time.
Just my $0.02. But on the list of "Things I'll do differently on my second kitplane."
-Dan Masys
>
> From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed PM 02:11:54 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Pitot lines - paper of plastic?
>
> I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to
> know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root.
> What are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from
> the root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both
> the aluminum tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
>
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Working on QB fuse
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
Does anyone know what kind of a tow bar we can use to move the RV-10 around
once all the nose gear fairings are installed? Or do nose gear RVs just get
pushed/pulled around by the prop?
Jim
40134 - Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | center console access |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I AGREE Jesse! Removing the panels to get the seat out is a pain. Let
me know if you come up with a easy solution and I will do the same.
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: center console access
David,
We actually have cut the tunnel covers in two places, but one is forward
of
the panel and hidden by our breaker/switch console (we had to have a
place
to run wires down into the tunnel) and the other is between the seats
under
our arm rest (again, mainly to run cables for headsets and rear seat
power).
I think the rear section of the back panel can be removed without
removing
the seats and both of the front sections can be removed.
Speaking of which, is it not annoying to anyone else that you have to
remove
the flap control rod cover to remove the seats? About another 1/2"
would
make the difference. That drives me crazy, as we have had to remove the
seat a number of times to add stuff under the panel (a guy my size
doesn't
fit under the panel without removing the seat - if I want to be able to
walk
afterwards).
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: center console access
Anyone addressed the problem of removal of the center tunnel access
after
the seats are in place. As the design currently exists, removing the
center
covers requires removing the front seats to inspect the center tunnel.
clearance for four fasteners is grossly insufficient as designed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Personally, I am running SafeAir's tubing all the way to the pitot and the static
heads. Can't remember what it's made of but it is plastic. They use the
exact same tubing that is used for air brake lines so I'm guessing that they
will be more than sufficient. I mainly went with theirs because it came with
all of the connectors along with static ports.
If I had to do it again I would probably just use 1/4" polyethylene tubing that
you can get from any home improvement store. PEX (polyethylene) tubing, and
it's fast on connectors, are more than adequate and I have yet to have a leak
in one with water pressures around 100psi. Not to mention it is now being used
as primary water lines in homes and is more commonly used as the hot glycol
tubing in radiant concrete floors.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot lines - paper of plastic?
I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to know
if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root. What
are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from the
root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both the aluminum
tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I use the prop 80% of the time but you will need a tow bar as well. I
bought mine at Aircraft Spruce. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Tow Bar
Does anyone know what kind of a tow bar we can use to move the RV-10
around once all the nose gear fairings are installed? Or do nose gear
RVs just get pushed/pulled around by the prop?
Jim
40134 - Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Drill hole in Flap Motor |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Easy to do. Start strait in until you can angle the drill with out it
slipping. Drill in about 1/2 way. Then stop and come in from the other
side. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Drill hole in Flap Motor
A 1/16" hole needs to be drilled through the upper lip of the flap motor
to accept safety wire. Any hints or tips on the best way to do this?
Larry Rosen
#40356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I have the same experience with the ACS2500. The fuel in the tanks is
right on compared to the gauges. Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy
Jim,
We are using the floats, but are using a Dynon EMS to monitor the tanks
through the floats. When you calibrate the Dynon, they have you put in
a
gallon or two at a time and it gets the new reading from the float.
Having
done it this way, and having a fuel flow meter to check, and a history
of
filling the tanks and using exactly what the fuel flow said we had
burned,
the floats are almost always accurate within a gallon or two. Couldn't
help
any on actual gauges, though. I wouldn't even consider putting a
non-EMS
(read - individual gauges for monitoring engine and fuel) in a plane
like
this anyway.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Senders, Gauges, Accuracy
Hi all!
Hopefully someone can give me some answers to an issue an RV-8
builder informed me of. Specifically, his tank holds 22 Gallons, he uses
15 gallons before the fuel gauge reads half. Since I don't have a gauge,
and I am about to put the rear baffle on, I'd like to get half to be as
close to half as possible!
Questions:
1. Anyone already built; With 15 Gallons in your tank:
A) What is the resistance of your sending unit?
B) What does your gauge read (half, 3/4, 1/4?)?
2. Anyone that has a gauge and the sending unit:
A) What resistance makes the gauge read:
a) 1/4
b) 1/2
c) 3/4
d) Full
Many thanks for replies!
-Jim 40384
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | The ultimate door latch |
If the crash is that bad then they can use a battle axe to get in the left
door.
Bob K
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Are you sure you want the left hand door as the only operable from
outside??? there are scenarios where in a crash it may be necessary for
someone externally to open the right hand door for rescue
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 6:51 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
> I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
> inside.
>
> Bob K
> 40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
> Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build
> a
> better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
> quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
> boundaries.
>
> Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
> door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
> character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got
> a
> more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
>
> -Dan Masys
> 70238 and 40448
> Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
>
>
>> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
>> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
>> To:
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>
>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>
>>
>>
>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I think what everyone need to admit is that the basic problem is that we all
NEED to have door locks no matter what country one lives in. What does that
say!!!!!
There are people everywhere in this world that have sub par moral values.
Lets agree on that. The bottom line...we are all human beings, we are all
brothers and sisters. Those who think diffferently need to get inside their
RV 10s, lock the door and throw away the key.
I have never had problems sending money over seas, Germany, Lithuania,
Holland. I have sent a lot more money overseas more than the cost of the
car, bicycle, skateboard, etc. that were stolen from me here in the states.
I am not a bleeding heart liberal, just a realist.
J Gonzalez, 40409
Malibu, California
>From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 08:38:33 +0100
>
>I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
>
>Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
>around..
>
>
>www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
>
>
>http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme
><http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme&project=1> &project=1
>
>
>-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
>Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
>Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
>Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
>Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>From: William <mailto:wcurtis(at)core.com>
>
>To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
>
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
> >Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
> >compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
>
>Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only
>about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for
>such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per
>side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
>handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
>certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
>about $300.
>
>I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it?
>Some will think so, but I think many will not.
>
>William Curtis
>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
If they have it. If there is time before the fire. If....
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: The ultimate door latch
>
> If the crash is that bad then they can use a battle axe to get in the left
> door.
>
> Bob K
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:41 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
> Are you sure you want the left hand door as the only operable from
> outside??? there are scenarios where in a crash it may be necessary for
> someone externally to open the right hand door for rescue
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 6:51 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
>>
>> I also will take one. The passenger door will only be opened from the
>> inside.
>>
>> Bob K
>> 40125 working on fuselage, finish kit ordered
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 5:20 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>
>>
>> Go for it, Henkjan. In an Internet-enabled global economy, if you "build
>> a
>> better mousetrap" and sell it at a reasonable price, word spreads very
>> quickly. And the community of talented RV builders has no geopolitical
>> boundaries.
>>
>> Seems to me that, in their drive to make things simple, Van's made those
>> door handles a little too simple. They just look plain ugly and out of
>> character with the rest of the technology in the airframe. If you've got
>> a
>> more elegant locking design for the price you mention, count me in.
>>
>> -Dan Masys
>> 70238 and 40448
>> Tailcone done; QB fuse and wings arrive next week.
>>
>>
>>> From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
>>> Date: 2006/01/18 Wed AM 02:38:33 EST
>>> To:
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>>>
>>> I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>>> messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>>> from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>>> builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>>> because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>>> problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>>> of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>>> having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>>> contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
I am using a Cessna heated probe from salvage with newish heating element inside.
It actually had a plastic pipe union on the probe itself and attached was plastic
line. A check of the Cessna parts manual indicated the same. SO I guess
the plastic all the way from the probe is ok in that case, it also specified
18 gauge wire. The Cessna probe is Aluminum. I think I am going to run a small
bit of Al tubing up through the mast and then go tygon all the way to the panel.
Aircraft Spruce seems to have everything required as was said in another post.
-Chris Lucas
#40072
Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: John Testement
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 2:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot lines - paper of plastic?
I am about to run the line to my heated pitot tube (Falcon tube) and want to
know if you guys recommend using aluminum or plastic lines to the wing root. What
are the pros and cons of each? I think I will probably run plastic from the
root to the panel. Also what connectors do I want to be using for both the aluminum
tube and plastic tube and what plastic tube should I order?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Working on QB fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph Czachorowski" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
I know the trailing edge of the elevator is supposed to go down 35 degrees.
How much is it supposed to go up ?
Zack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Fire Wall Connectors |
I like the cord grip fittings. There all listed at mcmaster carr pages
750-752. I've been using them for all my projects with good results.
www.mcmaster.com
steven dinieri
Anyone find a good supplier for high temp, environmentally rated,
vibration rated, firewall circular bulkhead mount connectors? I'm
thinking Amphenol but a little wary of the price per connector ($100+
ea). Any recommendations? We presently have some plastic AMP
connectors but they are only rated to 300 degrees F and are not
environmentally sealed. I'm looking for 16 contacts per circular
connector, #18 wire each. Anyone have any good ideas?
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Corrugated tubing for wire runs |
Some time back there was a thread on running bigger corrugated tubing for wire
runs vs what Vans sells. I heard from John Stewart that NAPA sold some that was
corrugated on the outside and smooth on the inside. I was unable to get my
area NAPA stores to locate it in their catalogs. I did find some at EARL MAY
garden centers. They use it for plumbing ponds/landscaping. It is KINK FREE,
has better temp. range and smooth inside for ease of fishing wires through.
I may try some of the 1/2" I.D. tubing and see how it works although it took me
a few days to locate this size............... difficult to find. The size is
actually metric but they use U.S. measurements so it is slightly larger than
1/2 I.D.
Dean
Closing fuse floors
Some time back there was a thread on running bigger corrugated tubing for wire
runs vs what Vans sells. I heard from John Stewart that NAPA sold some that was
corrugated on the outside and smooth on the inside. I was unable to get my area
NAPA stores to locate it in their catalogs. I did find some at EARL MAY garden
centers. They use it for plumbing ponds/landscaping. It is KINK FREE,has
better temp. rangeand smooth inside for ease of fishing wires through.I may try
some of the 1/2" I.D. tubing and see how it works although it took me a few
days to locate this size............... difficult to find. The size is actually
metric but they use U.S. measurements so it is slightly larger than 1/2 I.D.
Dean
Closing fuse floors
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill hole in Flap Motor |
Larry,
I have not drilled mine but I have done a lot of these safety wire holes before.
File a small flat where you want the hole to start, center punch the starting
point and drill in vertically just enough to be able to get the drill to start
and hold at a 45 degree angle then finish the hole. I have found that using
the short threaded drill bits work the best because they don't break as easily.
Go slow and let the bit do all the work, if you push even a little it will
snap right off.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Travel |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot lines - paper of plastic? |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
I have the Piper type heated pitot/static. Initially I ran tygon all the way to
the hookups on the pitot/static. On about my 3rd flight, after testing the pitot
heat at pre-flight, I accidently left it on. About 20 minutes into the flight
I lost airspeed because the tubing had melted. I replaced it with about 10
inch sections of aluminum tubing coming off the pitot/static and it has been
trouble free ever since.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5222#5222
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Travel |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Jim,
Oops. I meant the trailing edge of the trim tab. My plans says the trim tab
trailing edge goes down 35 degrees. Maybe it's there but I don't see it yet.
Zack
n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote:
> Zack,
> ??? Is this what you're looking for on page 11-2 of the plans? (Attached)
>
> -Jim 40384
>
>
> Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> > ? I know the trailing edge of the elevator is supposed to go down
35 degrees.? How much is it supposed to go up ?
> > ?
> > Zack
> >
>
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5226#5226
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corrugated tubing for wire runs |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Dean,
Try this tubing. It's called Tenite Butyrate. I have it in my RV8 and will
again use it in my RV10. Very lightweight and rigid yet flexible enough to bend
slightly if you have to. It is smooth inside and out and very inexpensive.
Try it. I think you will like it. Link below.
Zack
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=78&product%5Fid=4905
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
> Some time back there was a thread on running bigger corrugated tubing for wire
runs vs what Vans sells.? I heard from John Stewart that NAPA sold some that
was corrugated on the outside and smooth on the inside.? I was unable to get
my area NAPA stores to locate it in their catalogs.? I did find some at EARL MAY
garden centers.? They use it for plumbing ponds/landscaping.? It is KINK FREE,?has
better temp. range?and smooth inside for ease of fishing wires through.?I
may try some of the 1/2" I.D. tubing and see how it works although it took
me a few days to locate this size............... difficult to find.? The size
is actually metric but they use U.S. measurements so it is slightly larger than
1/2 I.D.
> Dean
> Closing fuse floors
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5230#5230
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Label / Placards |
Tim, just went out and measured, the diameter of the fuel cap opening in
wing is 2 5/16" diameter.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Darn, I forgot to order my data plate and nameplate, along with
> fuel quantity and type stickers.
>
> I've got 2 questions:
>
> If someone is home today near their wings, can I get a measurement
> on the size of the hole around the fuel caps? I'm going to go
> get some vinyl cut letters that say "100 LL - 60 US Gal" cut in
> an arc around the fuel opening. I'd like to make the arc of the
> letters only about 1/4 to 1/2" larger than the arc of the opening.
>
> As for the dataplate, I know the regs require only this:
> Per FAR 45.13 "Identification data" all that is required on the
> (fireproof) data plate is (1) Builder's name, (2) Model designation,
> and (3) Builder's serial number.
>
> What about the nameplate?
> I'm talking about this one at ACS p/n 09-33200
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06348.pdf
>
> They have fields for:
> Model:
> Serial No.:
> Empty Wt.:
> Date of Mfg.:
> Gross Wt.:
> Engine:
> H.P.:
> Built by
> Name:
> Address:
> City/State:
>
> How much of that is required info? I don't have an empty wt. yet,
> but if it wasn't required, I would just skip it.
>
> Almost done in the cockpit, so it's some finishing touches
> on the engine, wiring, doors, and then maybe wheel pants and
> then it's going to the airport.
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I thought the battle axe was "sitting" in the right seat... ;)
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage with two operating doors, from inside and out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Label / Placards |
Tim,
I believe you want the volume of each tank identified by the fuel
opening "30 U.S. Gal. 100 LL" not the volume of both tanks.
Another option in lieu of vinyl cut letters is to have the fuel cap
engraved. Dan C did it that way. He used Bill Esther. Here is the
link to the fuel caps on Dan's site
<http://www.rvproject.com/esther_engraving.html>
Another engraving source is here
<http://www.engravers.net/main/ac_products.htm> they have both fuel caps
and data plates and other engraved products.
Vans has a "Vans Air force" data plate. But you probably already know that.
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> ... I'm going to go
> get some vinyl cut letters that say "100 LL - 60 US Gal" cut in
>
> As for the dataplate, I know the regs require only this:
> ...
> I'm talking about this one at ACS p/n 09-33200
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06348.pdf
>
> ...
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Gluing in the windows, yet again. |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Ok, I know alternatives have been discussed before but I can't find anything
on using sikaflex for the -10 in the archives. With all the chatter about it
over in the main RV List I was wondering if anyone is using it on the -10 windows
instead of the standard Weld On 10 stuff? Seems like it may be a good alternative.
Downside is you need to hold the whole thing in place for 24 hours.
Thoughts?
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Have you checked with your local EAA chapters? They are usually your best source
of information for this. I believe my chapter has scales they loan out when
my time comes. Worth the yearly chapter fees alone!
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 12:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitot Check
I just checked with my on-field FBO. They no longer do pitot static checks, and
they always have rented scales for W&B but the guy they rented from no longer
works at the other FBO so they don't know that they can rent them anymore.
Is it true that a builder can do their on VFR pitot check, and then perhaps during/after
the flyoff I could fly to a neighboring airport to get a full IFR pitot
check?
And scales....what are others planning to do about scales?
Are these something you can usually find locally to rent?
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Travel |
This is what I measured on Randy's plane (See also my
message on control throws from January 6th)
Also measured elevator and trim travel.
Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal plane
Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
plane
Trim tab (left):
Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing edge
of elevator
Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
Trim tab (right):
Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R tab.
Eric
--- zackrv8 wrote:
>
>
> Jim,
>
> Oops. I meant the trailing edge of the trim tab.
> My plans says the trim tab trailing edge goes down
> 35 degrees. Maybe it's there but I don't see it
> yet.
>
> Zack
>
>
>
> n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote:
> > Zack,
> > ??? Is this what you're looking for on page 11-2
> of the plans? (Attached)
> >
> > -Jim 40384
> >
> >
> > Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> > > ? I know the trailing edge of the
> elevator is supposed to go down 35 degrees.? How
> much is it supposed to go up ?
> > > ?
> > > Zack
> > >
> >
>
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5226#5226
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
Tim,
If you have any friends that RACE stock cars or sprints they will have portable
scales that will work to weigh your plane.
DEAN
Tim,
If you have any friends that RACE stock cars or sprints they will have portable
scales that will work to weigh your plane.
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Label / Placards |
I just had a DAR inspection on my Zenith, he wanted fuel quantity and type at
the filler opening of each tank and also a fuel quantity label at my gauges.
For those not using gauges and using the engine monitor there must be a way of
showing the quantity. I. D. Data plate does not require empty weight.
Bob Spudis
In a message dated 1/19/2006 11:55:16 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes:
I'm not 100% sure it's a requirment or not, but I believe that it's
one of the things the inspectors look for. A label near the fuel
filler opening (or on the cap) that says the quantity and type
of fuel. Makes sense, since fuel related problems are one of the
largest causes of accidents. I know in my Beech, the POH actually
had pages with all of the required placards on it, and they
had a nice one that went by the filler necks.
I attached what I plan to use. Randy or one of the other people
flying may be able to tell you what they found/heard.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
We all just need to be penny wise and pound foolish and buy a hangar! If
the hangar's locked, the plane's safe. When you go somewhere, always demand
hangar space and pay the outrageous hangar price!
I was thinking any of these aftermarket items were too expensive until I had
the hangar thought...
Rob (where's my tongue? Oh, my cheek...)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
I think what everyone need to admit is that the basic problem is that we all
NEED to have door locks no matter what country one lives in. What does that
say!!!!!
There are people everywhere in this world that have sub par moral values.
Lets agree on that. The bottom line...we are all human beings, we are all
brothers and sisters. Those who think diffferently need to get inside their
RV 10s, lock the door and throw away the key.
I have never had problems sending money over seas, Germany, Lithuania,
Holland. I have sent a lot more money overseas more than the cost of the
car, bicycle, skateboard, etc. that were stolen from me here in the states.
I am not a bleeding heart liberal, just a realist.
J Gonzalez, 40409
Malibu, California
>From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2006 08:38:33 +0100
>
>I own a small precision machining company in Holland and the kind of
>messages as the latest below triggers me to make a post and keeps me
>from developing parts like a doorlock and sell it for use by other
>builders also, I will however design a doorlock for my own project
>because it's a necessity over here, if there are people who don't have
>problems paying money outside the USA, as for myself, I have to buy most
>of the parts outside my country (read USA) and being interested in
>having affordable doorlocks (say 100 till 150 Euro per set) they can
>contact me, the more I can make the cheaper they will be.
>
>
>Henkjan van der Zouw 40355
>
>
>Sorry for the somewhat strong words but there still are honest people
>around..
>
>
>www.zme.nl <http://www.zme.nl/>
>
>
>http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme
><http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=phzme&project=1> &project=1
>
>
>-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens David McNeill
>Verzonden: woensdag 18 januari 2006 2:46
>Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Onderwerp: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
>Other than being pricey; sending the money beyond USA borders is risky ;
>Ask the people who have dealt with the Subaru engine supplier in Canada.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>From: William <mailto:wcurtis(at)core.com>
>
>To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 4:28 PM
>
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
>
>
> >Those are awesome. A little pricey but not much when you
> >compare it to the total cost of the project, I guess.
>
>Yes, when you consider the total cost of the project it amounts to only
>about 1/2 of 1% of the final cost. Percentage wise, this is high for
>such a component. Looking at it that way it is small, however US$350 per
>side, $700 per plane without a lock is a bit pricey IMHO. Maybe door
>handles for Mooneys are as pricey, but there is the added burden of
>certification. Just as a comparison, a certified Andair fuel valve is
>about $300.
>
>I don't doubt that this hardware is of high quality, however worth it?
>Some will think so, but I think many will not.
>
>William Curtis
>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: center console access |
Regarding the flap control rod panels preventing installation of the front
seats, I thought about shaving just a tad off of the upper side of the white
bushing blocks that are inside of the seat rails, or rounding these upper
corners a bit may allow the seats to move forward and drop down. Just a
thought, I haven't done it yet.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 7:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: center console access
>
>
> I AGREE Jesse! Removing the panels to get the seat out is a pain. Let
> me know if you come up with a easy solution and I will do the same.
> Randy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 1:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: center console access
>
>
> David,
>
> We actually have cut the tunnel covers in two places, but one is forward
> of
> the panel and hidden by our breaker/switch console (we had to have a
> place
> to run wires down into the tunnel) and the other is between the seats
> under
> our arm rest (again, mainly to run cables for headsets and rear seat
> power).
> I think the rear section of the back panel can be removed without
> removing
> the seats and both of the front sections can be removed.
>
> Speaking of which, is it not annoying to anyone else that you have to
> remove
> the flap control rod cover to remove the seats? About another 1/2"
> would
> make the difference. That drives me crazy, as we have had to remove the
> seat a number of times to add stuff under the panel (a guy my size
> doesn't
> fit under the panel without removing the seat - if I want to be able to
> walk
> afterwards).
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to
> me,
> please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it
> has
> voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: center console access
>
>
> Anyone addressed the problem of removal of the center tunnel access
> after
> the seats are in place. As the design currently exists, removing the
> center
> covers requires removing the front seats to inspect the center tunnel.
> clearance for four fasteners is grossly insufficient as designed.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Leading edge splice strip |
To all completed wing builders,
I just clecoed the outboard leading edge onto the main
spar. The aft most rivet shop head of the aft nut
plate is resting on the spar cap and will rub. It
deflects the end of the splice outward about the
thickness of the shop head. Should I make a double
flush rivet to eliminate the shop head for this
interference area? Did any one else have this issue if
so how did you resolve it?
Steve wings 40212
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge splice strip |
Steve,
I had same problem and simply set the rivet in the nutplate a little more
to flatten the shop head.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Storage Rack |
I saw a picture of a wing storage rack on some builders web page and made
one like it. It's really quite handy but I can't find the source. Since it
works so well, if anyone knows where it came from perhaps they'd post it for
others to copy as well. It turns out to be about the same height as the
plastic sawhorses I got from Home Depot and that makes it easy to move the
wings apart to work on the insides. I don't have the leading edges and tanks
on yet so I put a 2x4 in instead of the carpet loop to support the spar.
Thanks to someone for a really good idea.
Albert Gardner
40422 Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge splice strip |
Ditto - I smushed the shop head right on down - its just a nut plate.
Chris Lucas
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leading edge splice strip
>
> Steve,
> I had same problem and simply set the rivet in the nutplate a little
> more to flatten the shop head.
>
> John Hasbrouck
> #40264
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Storage Rack |
They wingstand design keeps evolving . You may have gotten the
dimensions from my site here
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/WingStand/index.html>. My origin
was dimensions from Tim Olson, who modified the design from Dan
Checkoway, who modified plans I am sure from someone. Why reinvent the
wheel.
Albert, If you email me photos and some commentary on your modifications
or suggestions on how you would do it different next time, I will post
them on my website. Email me at larryrosen(at)comcast.net
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Albert Gardner wrote:
>I saw a picture of a wing storage rack on some builders web page and made
>one like it. It's really quite handy but I can't find the source. Since it
>works so well, if anyone knows where it came from perhaps they'd post it for
>others to copy as well. It turns out to be about the same height as the
>plastic sawhorses I got from Home Depot and that makes it easy to move the
>wings apart to work on the insides. I don't have the leading edges and tanks
>on yet so I put a 2x4 in instead of the carpet loop to support the spar.
>Thanks to someone for a really good idea.
>Albert Gardner
>40422 Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Travel |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Thanks Eric!!
ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo. wrote:
> This is what I measured on Randy's plane (See also my
> message on control throws from January 6th)
>
> Also measured elevator and trim travel.
>
> Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal plane
> Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
> plane
>
> Trim tab (left):
> Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing edge
> of elevator
> Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
>
> Trim tab (right):
> Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
> Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
>
> Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R tab.
>
> Eric
>
>
> --- zackrv8 wrote:
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim,
> >
> > Oops. I meant the trailing edge of the trim tab.
> > My plans says the trim tab trailing edge goes down
> > 35 degrees. Maybe it's there but I don't see it
> > yet.
> >
> > Zack
> >
> >
> >
> > n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote:
> > > Zack,
> > > ??? Is this what you're looking for on page 11-2
> > of the plans? (Attached)
> > >
> > > -Jim 40384
> > >
> > >
> > > Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> > > > ? I know the trailing edge of the
> > elevator is supposed to go down 35 degrees.? How
> > much is it supposed to go up ?
> > > > ?
> > > > Zack
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --------
> > RV8 #80125
> > RV10 # 40512
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5226#5226
> >
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> > Admin.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5622#5622
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge splice strip |
Thanks Guys!
That is what I'll do.
Steve
--- Chris wrote:
>
>
> Ditto - I smushed the shop head right on down - its
> just a nut plate.
>
> Chris Lucas
> #40072
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 12:02 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Leading edge splice strip
>
>
>
> >
> > Steve,
> > I had same problem and simply set the rivet in
> the nutplate a little
> > more to flatten the shop head.
> >
> > John Hasbrouck
> > #40264
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Travel |
Why is full elevator up only 4.9deg compare to the plans? (about 25deg or
so)
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 9:56 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Elevator Travel
>
>
> Thanks Eric!!
>
>
> ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo. wrote:
>> This is what I measured on Randy's plane (See also my
>> message on control throws from January 6th)
>>
>> Also measured elevator and trim travel.
>>
>> Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal plane
>> Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
>> plane
>>
>> Trim tab (left):
>> Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing edge
>> of elevator
>> Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
>>
>> Trim tab (right):
>> Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
>> Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
>>
>> Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R tab.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>> --- zackrv8 wrote:
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Jim,
>> >
>> > Oops. I meant the trailing edge of the trim tab.
>> > My plans says the trim tab trailing edge goes down
>> > 35 degrees. Maybe it's there but I don't see it
>> > yet.
>> >
>> > Zack
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote:
>> > > Zack,
>> > > ??? Is this what you're looking for on page 11-2
>> > of the plans? (Attached)
>> > >
>> > > -Jim 40384
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
>> > > > ? I know the trailing edge of the
>> > elevator is supposed to go down 35 degrees.? How
>> > much is it supposed to go up ?
>> > > > ?
>> > > > Zack
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> > --------
>> > RV8 #80125
>> > RV10 # 40512
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Read this topic online here:
>> >
>> >
>> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5226#5226
>> >
>>
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > browse
>> > Subscriptions page,
>> > FAQ,
>> >
>> > Admin.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5622#5622
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Extras Flap Positioning System - Ray Allen Position |
Sensor installation?
Anyone using the Aircraft Extras flap positioning system
<http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus.htm> on there 10? Do you have
any photos of your installation of the Ray Allen position sensor
(POS-12) that is needed to measure the position of the flap mechanism?
Please email them to me at LarryRosen(at)comcast.net so the attachments do
not slow down those unfortunate subscribers that still use dial up. :-)
Larry Rosen
#356
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
Web site updated with photos of Albert Gardner's wing stand. In the
construction tips section
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Storage Rack |
There's a better wing storage rack on the plans for the RV7, it's by a crowd
some of you know as Vansaircraft.....
I'll see if I can get this modern technology to work and scan the plans or
photgraph them. The Van's rack will do all the RV models.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 10:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing Storage Rack
I saw a picture of a wing storage rack on some builders web page and made
one like it. It's really quite handy but I can't find the source. Since it
works so well, if anyone knows where it came from perhaps they'd post it for
others to copy as well. It turns out to be about the same height as the
plastic sawhorses I got from Home Depot and that makes it easy to move the
wings apart to work on the insides. I don't have the leading edges and tanks
on yet so I put a 2x4 in instead of the carpet loop to support the spar.
Thanks to someone for a really good idea.
Albert Gardner
40422 Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Extras Flap Positioning System - Ray Allen Position |
Sensor installation?
I could also do with any photos on the FPS-Plus system. Mine is not
installed yet.
dav1111(at)cox.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 1:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Extras Flap Positioning System - Ray Allen
Position Sensor installation?
>
> Anyone using the Aircraft Extras flap positioning system
> <http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus.htm> on there 10? Do you have any
> photos of your installation of the Ray Allen position sensor (POS-12) that
> is needed to measure the position of the flap mechanism?
> Please email them to me at LarryRosen(at)comcast.net so the attachments do
> not slow down those unfortunate subscribers that still use dial up. :-)
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
> Web site updated with photos of Albert Gardner's wing stand. In the
> construction tips section
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | End of the Spear |
This if off-topic, but has anybody had a chance to see "End of the Spear"?
The flying is pretty good, although there isn't enough of it in there. In
the first landing on the beach you can see the right wing of the plane brush
the treetops as right before he reaches the water. That little PA-14 is an
incredible plane.
Just curious.
GOD BLESS!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: End of the Spear |
Jesse, isn't this movie based on a true story that involves your father???
Jesse Saint wrote:
> This if off-topic, but has anybody had a chance to see End of the
> Spear? The flying is pretty good, although there isnt enough of it
> in there. In the first landing on the beach you can see the right wing
> of the plane brush the treetops as right before he reaches the water.
> That little PA-14 is an incredible plane.
>
> Just curious.
>
> GOD BLESS!
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> I-TEC, Inc.
>
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
>
> www.itecusa.org <http://www.itecusa.org>
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding
> I-TEC, please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to
> talk to me, please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always
> be on, but it has voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: End of the Spear |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Jesse Saint wrote:
> This if off-topic, but has anybody had a chance to see End of the
> Spear? The flying is pretty good, although there isnt enough of it in
> there. In the first landing on the beach you can see the right wing of
> the plane brush the treetops as right before he reaches the water. That
> little PA-14 is an incredible plane.
Hi Jesse,
I haven't seen that one but I recently bought
"One Six Right" and it is an excellent movie about
general aviation. Highly recommend it!
<http://www.sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&Product_ID=10099&DID=19>
I'll have to check out "End of the Spear". Thanks for
the heads up! :-)
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Line Drawing |
Repost from last spring.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV-10 Line Drawing
Here you go
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 9:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Line Drawing
Does anyone have a RV-10 line drawing (both side and top
view) they can email me. I want to start thinking about paint scheme's.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
Ray.R.Doerr(at)mail.sprint.com
40250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RVFOURME(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance quoteInsurance quote |
Those of you looking (or about to look) for Insurance, this may be worth
your while.
Travers Insurance Group
800-888-9859
_www.traversaviation.com_ (http://www.traversaviation.com)
This group provided me the best price and most liberal flight requirements
for my RV4 when I finished it in 2004. Will be using them when I complete a
future -10
craig ponnequin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
Hi all ....one gear leg thread has not been done correctly with the first
couple of threads not there at all...the other is fine,so the big nut will
not take at all??
Any ideas??
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Travel |
That's a good question. Per tail plans, Full down to
the stops is 25 deg and full up is 30 deg. I am
looking for my original notes but I recall with the
electronic level we were measuring relative to the
horizontal plane for the elevator. If the stabilizer
was at an angle then the measurement would not be
directly comparable to the plans. I don't recall what
the level was with the elevator in trail.
Assuming 25 degrees is full down (and measuring 33.2
deg) this would suggest the tail was ~ 8.2 degrees
down relative to horizontal. Adding this 8.2 to the up
measurment of 4.9 deg would leave you at 13.1 degrees
up (plans 30 deg). Perhaps travel limitations in the
control system limit full travel in the up direction?
It would be worth checking.
Perhaps someone could check on another flying (or soon
to fly) plane.
Eric
--- DejaVu wrote:
>
>
> Why is full elevator up only 4.9deg compare to the
> plans? (about 25deg or
> so)
> Anh
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Sent: Friday, January 20, 2006 9:56 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Elevator Travel
>
>
> >
> >
>
> >
> > Thanks Eric!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo. wrote:
> >> This is what I measured on Randy's plane (See
> also my
> >> message on control throws from January 6th)
> >>
> >> Also measured elevator and trim travel.
> >>
> >> Elevator: Full up 4.9 degrees above horizontal
> plane
> >> Full down 33.2 degrees below horizontal
> >> plane
> >>
> >> Trim tab (left):
> >> Full down: 22 degrees down relative to trailing
> edge
> >> of elevator
> >> Full up: 6.4 degrees above relative to " " " "
> >>
> >> Trim tab (right):
> >> Full down: 21 degress down " " " " "
> >> Full up: 27.1 degrees up " " " " "
> >>
> >> Note: Full up travel is very different for L vs R
> tab.
> >>
> >> Eric
> >>
> >>
> >> --- zackrv8 wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Jim,
> >> >
> >> > Oops. I meant the trailing edge of the trim
> tab.
> >> > My plans says the trim tab trailing edge goes
> down
> >> > 35 degrees. Maybe it's there but I don't see
> it
> >> > yet.
> >> >
> >> > Zack
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote:
> >> > > Zack,
> >> > > ??? Is this what you're looking for on page
> 11-2
> >> > of the plans? (Attached)
> >> > >
> >> > > -Jim 40384
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > Joseph Czachorowski wrote:
> >> > > > ? I know the trailing edge of
> the
> >> > elevator is supposed to go down 35 degrees.?
> How
> >> > much is it supposed to go up ?
> >> > > > ?
> >> > > > Zack
> >> > > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > --------
> >> > RV8 #80125
> >> > RV10 # 40512
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Read this topic online here:
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5226#5226
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > browse
> >> > Subscriptions page,
> >> > FAQ,
> >> >
> >> > Admin.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> > --------
> > RV8 #80125
> > RV10 # 40512
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> >
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5622#5622
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=== message truncated ===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg thread |
There's a service bulletin from Van's that deals with this very subject.
Check the website or contact Van's.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>
>
> Hi all ....one gear leg thread has not been done correctly with the first
> couple of threads not there at all...the other is fine,so the big nut will
> not take at all??
>
> Any ideas??
>
> Chris
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg thread |
That's actually for the nuts incorrectly threaded not the gear leg so my
question still stands.
chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>
>
> There's a service bulletin from Van's that deals with this very subject.
> Check the website or contact Van's.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 11:18 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hi all ....one gear leg thread has not been done correctly with the first
>> couple of threads not there at all...the other is fine,so the big nut
>> will not take at all??
>>
>> Any ideas??
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greerdans(at)aol.com |
While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly over one
of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the top skin)
Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I slightly worse and
it exhibits slight oil canning.
My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the finish/painting
stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so that it won't
oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still oil can and crack
the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs (at the rear spa) are
located so I will be gaining some support internally from the foam and pro seal.....is
this sufficient or should I add a stiffener? If I ad the stiffener
it will make the dimple convex on the skin which I assume will be more difficult
to hide with filler.
Thanks for your help.
George Costigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aj <ajhauter(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: End of the Spear |
Jesse,
I saw it yesterday. It is now on my all time best movie list. Very moving, what
a heritage your family has. You must be very proud of the sacrifices your
Grandfather and Father made and what a transforming story about the Wadoni.
The PA-14 looks like an impressive bush plane, don't you think the Bearhawk would
serve that mission similarly, probably better STOL and load carrying? I think
the rv-10 could as well, but would probably need some considerable gear beef-up
and I'm not sure the low-wing would not serve too well on rugged strips.
best regards,
aj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: End of the Spear |
Jesse,
So, before I go see the movie, Nate is your Grandfather and Steve your
father?
-Sean
aj wrote:
>
> Jesse,
>
> I saw it yesterday. It is now on my all time best movie list. Very moving,
what a heritage your family has. You must be very proud of the sacrifices your
Grandfather and Father made and what a transforming story about the Wadoni.
>
> The PA-14 looks like an impressive bush plane, don't you think the Bearhawk would
serve that mission similarly, probably better STOL and load carrying? I
think the rv-10 could as well, but would probably need some considerable gear
beef-up and I'm not sure the low-wing would not serve too well on rugged strips.
>
> best regards,
>
> aj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
You'll have to forgive this bit if it's way off, I'm reaching back mentally
to around 1998 while working on my RV-6. I remember a discussion thread
about stiffening the fuselage just aft of the baggage compartment because
folks were worried about oil canning. Turns out the stiffeners did more
harm than good by moving the stress points unpredictably. You may want to
do a search on Matronics in other lists (RV-6) for such things. As Tim
mentioned, it's not like you're the first with a little bondo here and there
and I don't remember seeing a lot of airplanes with cracked paint due to
filler.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of greerdans(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 9:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Body Filler
While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly
over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the
top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I
slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.
My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the
finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so
that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still oil
can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs (at
the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some support internally from
the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or should I add a stiffener? If
I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple convex on the skin which I assume
will be more difficult to hide with filler.
Thanks for your help.
George Costigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
I have read the other post to your question and indeed it is true, we all
have somethings to hide.
If there is no support to back up that ding, then another option is to use
an epoxy filler rather than a polyester filler. You can then fill it below
the level of the height of contour, epoxy microballon mix, sand it out,
clean it, wet it out with resin, apply the cloth in a layer or two, let it
cure. Sand out again, then prime for final painting. The trick is to make
sure the layer or two of cloth is below she final sand out level.
I am talking about 1.4 to 2 oz glass. This will prevent the the cracking of
the paint. AeroSpace Composite Products in California has the weight
glasses you will need.
JOhn Gonzalez
Elevators finished riveting this weekend, there is a lot of stuff going on
with the foam blocks and the rear spar and the trailing edge. I think the
biggest problem was getting the rear spar back to the correct flange angle
and doing so consistently and without bending the web. The dimpling on the
rear spar seemed to open the flange up and it was difficult for me to get
the above. EEEEEE!
Getting perfection is very difficult the first time you do it.
>From: greerdans(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Body Filler
>Date: Sun, 22 Jan 2006 09:14:36 -0500
>
>While riveting the Elevator the bucking bar was not positioned correctly
>over one of the rivets and I now have a dimple in the skin. (Naturally, the
>top skin) Of course, trying to improve it with the rivet gun I made I
>slightly worse and it exhibits slight oil canning.
>
>My question is, how well does the body filler work when I get to the
>finish/painting stage? Is the filler stiff enough to firm up the dimple so
>that it won't oil can? I'd hate to have a situation where it would still
>oil can and crack the paint. The dimple is located near where the foam ribs
>(at the rear spa) are located so I will be gaining some support internally
>from the foam and pro seal.....is this sufficient or should I add a
>stiffener? If I ad the stiffener it will make the dimple convex on the skin
>which I assume will be more difficult to hide with filler.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>George Costigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks. |
Looks like I had another temporary brain shutdown. I miss drilled the six longeron
holes that are used to hold the rudder pedal support blocks. Vans instructions
say to cleco the jig on to the forward most holes on the longeron and drill
the 6 rudder pedal support holes. Actually just clecoing is not enough,
one has to align the edge of the jig with the edge of the longeron. Thats where
I went wrong. I believe only three holes are needed. The other three holes
are for a more aft placement of the rudder pedals (about 1 1/4 inches). I am
planning on drilling a third set of holes between these two sets. It appears
that I would have enough room however I would lose the adjustability. Since
I am 5'7" I figured the middle position might actually fit me well. Any comments
or suggestions on this are appreciated.
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks. |
Better check with Van's ; You appear to be making Swiss cheese of the main structural
piece in that area.
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 8:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Longeron holes for rudder pedal support blocks.
Looks like I had another temporary brain shutdown. I miss drilled the six longeron
holes that are used to hold the rudder pedal support blocks. Vans instructions
say to cleco the jig on to the forward most holes on the longeron and
drill the 6 rudder pedal support holes. Actually just clecoing is not enough,
one has to align the edge of the jig with the edge of the longeron. Thats where
I went wrong. I believe only three holes are needed. The other three holes
are for a more aft placement of the rudder pedals (about 1 1/4 inches). I
am planning on drilling a third set of holes between these two sets. It appears
that I would have enough room however I would lose the adjustability. Since
I am 5'7" I figured the middle position might actually fit me well. Any comments
or suggestions on this are appreciated.
Niko
40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Additional encoder with Chelton |
Here's an offline reply that would give some info to the list if
people have similar questions....
> Tim,
>
> I noticed this at first in the pictures, then on your latest write-up
> for you panel. You mention One nice piece of equipment in my panel is
> the Ack A30 Mod 8 altitude encoder. I encourage people looking for an
> encoder to look at that one. It allows 2 serial, and one Grey code
> output, which comes in really handy if you have a GNS480 and an SL30.
>
> How come you are using a separate ACK_30 encoder to provide altitude to
> your GNS480 and SL30? Can you not use the $25,000 Chelton with its
> built in Air/Data computer to send serial or Grey code altitude to your
> Nav devices? At least that way there would be no variances between what
> you are flying and what you are reporting. Even the lowly Dynon 10A can
> provided serial altitude to the GNS480 and SL30 with its single port.
>
The answer is that the Chelton doesn't have a "built-in" air data
computer. It uses an external air data computer which is actually
a crippled GRT EIS. If you get the GRT EIS, then that replaces
the air data computer that you'd get with the Chelton. (They'll
give you a credit for it.) The GRT will put out air data and
serial altitude to the Chelton. But, nobody really had a good answer
if the EIS would output the proper signals to the Transponder
and GNS480. I know the GRT EFIS would output the proper formats,
but that's after the EFIS processes the data. I had also been
told that in order to use the GTX330 TIS, I'd need an external
encoder. So I decided to get one that would do everything I'd
want. Besides that, the ACK is a TSO'd encoder, that I guess
I would think puts me in a slightly better "legal" situation
in regards to IFR static tests, as I basically have a system
between the ACK/GTX330/GNS480 that would be approvable in a
certified aircraft.
> The Mod 8 ACK encoder is the first ACK-30 to offer serial as well as
> Grey code output, however I dont see any benefit to multiple serial
> outputs. A single serial output from one (ACK-30) should be able to
> drive multiple devices. This is similar to the single Aviation output
> serial port on my Garmin GNS-430 driving three sometimes four separate
> devicesthe GTX-327 Transponder, the EI Fuel Flow, the Garmin 195
> portable and occasionally a tablet computer.
That's true that a serial output can drive multiple devices just
fine, but in the case of the GNS480, it prefers the 1200 baud
Apollo format, and the GTX330 prefers the GARMIN/TRIMBLE format
at 9600 baud. So rather than hooking them up and hoping that
I could get them both to recognize a common format, with only
2 wires I can hook them both up using their preferred methods.
And, what happens if you shut off the GNS430? Does the serial output
still go to the GTX-327 just fine and any other devices? I decided
that the ACK sending separate signals (which do read the exact same
altitude...and are within 10' of the GRT unit) would be a better
"fail safe" way to go. I can lose a transponder and my entire
chelton system, and still have altitude data on my GNS480.
>
> Seems a waste to spend all that money on the Chelton and then rely on a
> $200 ACK-30 for your altitude reporting. Ive never been able to get my
> hands on the Chelton installation manuals to truly access its
> capabilities so this is probably why I have never considered it. So what
> am I missing that explains the separate encoder?
Well, in the big scheme of things, the $200 didn't have any impact on
my decisions. The alternative of trusting it all to the GRT maybe
could have worked, but there were enough barriers to that method,
the largest of which was the lack of information available, and making
it harder yet was when 3 different vendors couldn't decide among
themselves if I could do it without a separate encoder. When I saw
what the ACK would do, to me it simplifies things, and also gives some
good redundancy, so I'm happy with it. It's a cool little box, too.
Hope that answers the questions a bit. I'm sure there's even more
to the story that could be filled in, but I didn't have luck
getting any more info than that.
On the good side, with the exception of my music input jacks, any wires
that run out to the wing (except my trim, which is done) I now have a
fully wired, fully operational (as far as I can tell without turning
the engine on outside), and fully integrated panel. So next weekend
I'm planning to take it all to the airport for final assembly.
If I keep my same pace, I'll be ready for the DAR/FAA sometime
in February, with a target date of March 1.
Tim
>
> William Curtis
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg thread |
have you contacted Van's?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>
>
> That's actually for the nuts incorrectly threaded not the gear leg so my
> question still stands.
>
> chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 8:20 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>
>
>>
>>
>> There's a service bulletin from Van's that deals with this very subject.
>> Check the website or contact Van's.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
>> To:
>> Sent: Saturday, January 21, 2006 11:18 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi all ....one gear leg thread has not been done correctly with the
>>> first couple of threads not there at all...the other is fine,so the big
>>> nut will not take at all??
>>>
>>> Any ideas??
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Additional encoder with Chelton |
The encoder requirement for the Chelton is really a choice in method of
implementation. The Chelton air data computer is a form of the GRT EIS which
outputs pressure altitude. The Chelton software (which is FAA certified for
their certified unit) uses the pressure altitude and altimeter setting to
display the indicated altitude for EFIS purposes. The problem arises when
transponders on the market require many different formats for input. For
years the standard has been the parallel input "grey code". Now many
transponders also allow serial inputs in different formats. Changing and
recertifying software for every new piece of hardware coming on the market
would be a daunting task as well as lend itself to errors (glitches)
creeping into the software. I have read the GRT EFIS list for some time and
the GRT software seems to be always in a state of flux. This flux would be
untenable for a certified unit; hence the isolation of the format conversion
for transponder input to the separate encoder. Therefore the purchase
decision comes down to a user decision whether to fly with a certified
software (more stable but less flexible) or a continual Beta version of
another EFIS software. Hope this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 9:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Additional encoder with Chelton
Here's an offline reply that would give some info to the list if
people have similar questions....
> Tim,
>
> I noticed this at first in the pictures, then on your latest write-up for
> you panel. You mention One nice piece of equipment in my panel is the Ack
> A30 Mod 8 altitude encoder. I encourage people looking for an encoder to
> look at that one. It allows 2 serial, and one Grey code output, which
> comes in really handy if you have a GNS480 and an SL30.
>
> How come you are using a separate ACK_30 encoder to provide altitude to
> your GNS480 and SL30? Can you not use the $25,000 Chelton with its built
> in Air/Data computer to send serial or Grey code altitude to your Nav
> devices? At least that way there would be no variances between what you
> are flying and what you are reporting. Even the lowly Dynon 10A can
> provided serial altitude to the GNS480 and SL30 with its single port.
>
The answer is that the Chelton doesn't have a "built-in" air data
computer. It uses an external air data computer which is actually
a crippled GRT EIS. If you get the GRT EIS, then that replaces
the air data computer that you'd get with the Chelton. (They'll
give you a credit for it.) The GRT will put out air data and
serial altitude to the Chelton. But, nobody really had a good answer
if the EIS would output the proper signals to the Transponder
and GNS480. I know the GRT EFIS would output the proper formats,
but that's after the EFIS processes the data. I had also been
told that in order to use the GTX330 TIS, I'd need an external
encoder. So I decided to get one that would do everything I'd
want. Besides that, the ACK is a TSO'd encoder, that I guess
I would think puts me in a slightly better "legal" situation
in regards to IFR static tests, as I basically have a system
between the ACK/GTX330/GNS480 that would be approvable in a
certified aircraft.
> The Mod 8 ACK encoder is the first ACK-30 to offer serial as well as Grey
> code output, however I dont see any benefit to multiple serial outputs. A
> single serial output from one (ACK-30) should be able to drive multiple
> devices. This is similar to the single Aviation output serial port on my
> Garmin GNS-430 driving three sometimes four separate devicesthe GTX-327
> Transponder, the EI Fuel Flow, the Garmin 195 portable and occasionally a
> tablet computer.
That's true that a serial output can drive multiple devices just
fine, but in the case of the GNS480, it prefers the 1200 baud
Apollo format, and the GTX330 prefers the GARMIN/TRIMBLE format
at 9600 baud. So rather than hooking them up and hoping that
I could get them both to recognize a common format, with only
2 wires I can hook them both up using their preferred methods.
And, what happens if you shut off the GNS430? Does the serial output
still go to the GTX-327 just fine and any other devices? I decided
that the ACK sending separate signals (which do read the exact same
altitude...and are within 10' of the GRT unit) would be a better
"fail safe" way to go. I can lose a transponder and my entire
chelton system, and still have altitude data on my GNS480.
>
> Seems a waste to spend all that money on the Chelton and then rely on a
> $200 ACK-30 for your altitude reporting. Ive never been able to get my
> hands on the Chelton installation manuals to truly access its capabilities
> so this is probably why I have never considered it. So what am I missing
> that explains the separate encoder?
Well, in the big scheme of things, the $200 didn't have any impact on
my decisions. The alternative of trusting it all to the GRT maybe
could have worked, but there were enough barriers to that method,
the largest of which was the lack of information available, and making
it harder yet was when 3 different vendors couldn't decide among
themselves if I could do it without a separate encoder. When I saw
what the ACK would do, to me it simplifies things, and also gives some
good redundancy, so I'm happy with it. It's a cool little box, too.
Hope that answers the questions a bit. I'm sure there's even more
to the story that could be filled in, but I didn't have luck
getting any more info than that.
On the good side, with the exception of my music input jacks, any wires
that run out to the wing (except my trim, which is done) I now have a
fully wired, fully operational (as far as I can tell without turning
the engine on outside), and fully integrated panel. So next weekend
I'm planning to take it all to the airport for final assembly.
If I keep my same pace, I'll be ready for the DAR/FAA sometime
in February, with a target date of March 1.
Tim
>
> William Curtis
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
| From: | "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> |
Isn't it common sense that a plane with a mission profile like the RV-10 should
have been designed with locking door latches? It's not a hanger queen designed
to get pulled out for a short joy ride every Sunday afternoon. Maybe instead
of trying to jury rig a lock, or debating sending $700 overseas for something
that looks good but may or may not work as specified, a little pressure on Vans
from the builders would encourage them to design and build a locking latch
that could at least be ordered as an option. They seem to have the resources
to get something like that made up pretty quickly if they get the impression that
it is important to their customers. Also, in general their prices are usually
pretty reasonable. Just a suggestion.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6231#6231
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
I've seen it discussed here before... but consider the damage that
someone will do to your locked door to get at to your $35,000 panel.
It's arguably better to minimize the collateral damage to your plane
by not locking the door. Perhaps a well secured cover (so they can't
tell what's in the plane to start with) is a better approach.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Top Skinning the Wings
On Jan 23, 2006, at 1:21 PM, steveadams wrote:
>
>
> Isn't it common sense that a plane with a mission profile like the
> RV-10 should have been designed with locking door latches? It's not
> a hanger queen designed to get pulled out for a short joy ride
> every Sunday afternoon. Maybe instead of trying to jury rig a
> lock, or debating sending $700 overseas for something that looks
> good but may or may not work as specified, a little pressure on
> Vans from the builders would encourage them to design and build a
> locking latch that could at least be ordered as an option. They
> seem to have the resources to get something like that made up
> pretty quickly if they get the impression that it is important to
> their customers. Also, in general their prices are usually pretty
> reasonable. Just a suggestion.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6231#6231
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone construction question |
I'm assembling the tailcone on my -10 and came to a question in the instructions.
On page 10-4 steps 3,4 the instructions say to assemble the frame halves with
the left half in front of the right half. Meanwhile, the picture shows it
the opposite of that with the right half in front of the left half. Anybody
else stumbled upon this???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone construction question |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | RE: End of the Spear |
Jesse;
Yes, my wife and I treated our neice to the show on Saturday night.
We really enjoyed it. I agree with Tim about the ending river scene.
I also found the scene surrounding the spearing of the men really hard
to watch.
But, I gotta say, when I first saw that GPS antenna....!!! I thought,
something sticky and yellow could've covered it! Then, I tried to
think of all the Piper Cub owners I know, and how I needed to warn
them not to see the movie if they hold the little bush planes near to
their hearts. Then, I realized, I don't know anybody that owns one!
Whew!
Thanks Jesse for the heads up on the film months ago. Hope to meet
you some day.
Bruce
40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Cc: "Tom Gummo" , "Frank Tomko"
In the motto of the Wild Weasels (F-4E Phantom II). My flying partner,
Gummibear, would say "Y.G.T.B.S.M.". "Stir the pot, stickie no move, you
don't either". KABONG HRII N561FS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 8:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Don't let this happen to you!
NTSB Identification: ATL03CA105.
The docket is stored in the Docket Management System (DMS). Please contact
Records Management Division <http://www.ntsb.gov/info/sources.htm#pib>
14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation
Accident occurred Wednesday, June 11, 2003 in St. Simons Isld, GA
Probable Cause Approval Date: 9/30/2003
Aircraft: Ayers RV-6A, registration: N221SA
Injuries: 1 Minor.
According to the pilot, the right control stick was secured with the
passenger seat belt, acting as a gust lock. The pilot stated that he took
off without removing the seat belt from the control stick. When the airplane
pitched up, it veered to the left side of the runway, the pilot reduced
engine power, landed off the left side of the runway and flipped inverted.
The National Transportation Safety Board determines the probable cause(s) of
this accident as follows:
The pilot's inadequate preflight inspection that resulted in his failure to
remove the seatbelt (flight control gust lock) from the right side flight
control stick.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Here's a picture of a full metal version and there's a version for the rudder using
the stops too. If anyone is interested, I can get pictures of all of them
and post. The advantage is that the surfaces are held without the pressures
being transmitted through the control rods and cables. Also, the controls will
not move and that should be noticeable during the checklist (you do use a checklist,
right?) or taxi if you forget them.
As far as locking goes, I plan on locking the throttle and mixture controls too. I plan on making locks similar to the ones at Sportys (http://www.sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&did=3D19&product_id=3D3569). You can get a pair of those padlocks at Lowes or Walmart for $20 and I'll weld up the tube. I like the simple doorlocks from this list and I plan to use them too. I don't want it to be too easy to get in my plane after removing the cover. I want "them" to look for easier targets.
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: Deems Davis
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 23, 2006 11:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
The Colorado 10's that were @ OSH this year had some simple and
effective gust locks, that fit the Ailerons and the Elevators. They were
fabricated from Aluminum sheet probably.032 or slightly thicker, they
were about an inch to an inch and 1/2 wide, and I'm guessing about 3-4
inches long. At the top and bottom there was a hole drilled (approx
1/2-5/8 inch) that equaled or slightly smaller than the diameter of a
foam 'noodle' that was inserted through each end, the noodle provided
enough friction against the skin to keep things tight when the metal
piece was slipped between the elevator and the HS (e.g.) or the aileron
and the wing tip or flap. and didn't present any possibility of
scratching the paint/skins. I've had my eye out for where to find the
'noodle' material, it was the same material that they make the larger
noodles that kids use in the swimming pools, They may have come from
some Nerf dart set as well.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings (finishing up)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear leg thread |
Got a reply from Vans....they are sending a new gear leg out........to
Melbourne Australia. Now that's service!!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Gear leg thread
>
>
> Hi all ....one gear leg thread has not been done correctly with the first
> couple of threads not there at all...the other is fine,so the big nut will
> not take at all??
>
> Any ideas??
>
> Chris
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffery J. Morgan" <jmorgan(at)compnetconcepts.com> |
I was looking for the price sheet from last year for the 10 and was not
able to find it. I am wondering how much the parts went up this year,
and if anyone has last year too, that would be helpful.
Thanks
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
Has any one used this type of product when building
the fuel tanks? It is a product that wipes off the
excess Pro seal.
http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
Does any one have a recommendation for or against
using a pneumatic sealant gun when building the tanks?
Steve 40212
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without any mess but cost more
than purchasing product in two parts and mixing manually. Nothing can
make it quicker, better flow control and less messy than a pneumatic
sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the most popular size.
I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument to use a baggy.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
Has any one used this type of product when building
the fuel tanks? It is a product that wipes off the
excess Pro seal.
http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
Does any one have a recommendation for or against
using a pneumatic sealant gun when building the tanks?
Steve 40212
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro Seal Wipes |
+1 on having a Semco sealant gun. I went to aircraft spruce and
purchased tubes and nozzles. That way I could buy the quart kit, mix it
up myself and place in the Semco for easy application. You can usually
find a good used Semco on Ebay.
-Sean #40303
http://rv10.stephensville.com
John W. Cox wrote:
>
> The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without any mess but cost more
> than purchasing product in two parts and mixing manually. Nothing can
> make it quicker, better flow control and less messy than a pneumatic
> sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the most popular size.
>
> I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument to use a baggy.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
>
>
> Has any one used this type of product when building
> the fuel tanks? It is a product that wipes off the
> excess Pro seal.
> http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
>
> Does any one have a recommendation for or against
> using a pneumatic sealant gun when building the tanks?
>
> Steve 40212
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl> |
There's a lot of noise on the list about door locks, sorry for posting
one extra.
I designed a door handle with a little lock cylinder built in for my own
use, it simply replaces the original door handle, the base plate uses
the standard screws (and hide them) that hold the inside locking
mechanism so it's completely interchangeable with the standard handle,
just a screwdriver and a hex wrench will do the job. I did not intent to
make it absolute burglar proof because it's an easy job to demolish the
door with a crowbar, large screwdriver etc. it just prevents people
without heavy tools walking in and out, it makes it a bit more difficult
to get in, just like it is by cars.
It's CNC machined from billet and nicely anodised, I will post picture
when it is mounted in a week or two.
Henkjan van der Zouw
ZME v.o.f.
Rijksstraatweg 28
3545NA
Utrecht
Netherlands
tel. ..31 30 6665443
mob. ..31 653235372
fax. ..31 30 6664659
www.zme.nl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pro Seal Wipes |
Sean, I not/ced that your waiting on some bucking help for your outboard
wing sections. If you haven't already arranged for it, give me a call
and I'll pop down,
Deems
623 218 6442
/
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> +1 on having a Semco sealant gun. I went to aircraft spruce and
> purchased tubes and nozzles. That way I could buy the quart kit, mix
> it up myself and place in the Semco for easy application. You can
> usually find a good used Semco on Ebay.
>
> -Sean #40303
> http://rv10.stephensville.com
>
> John W. Cox wrote:
>
>>
>> The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without any mess but cost more
>> than purchasing product in two parts and mixing manually. Nothing can
>> make it quicker, better flow control and less messy than a pneumatic
>> sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the most popular size.
>>
>> I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument to use a baggy.
>>
>> John
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton Steve
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
>>
>>
>> Has any one used this type of product when building
>> the fuel tanks? It is a product that wipes off the
>> excess Pro seal.
>> http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
>> Does any one have a recommendation for or against
>> using a pneumatic sealant gun when building the tanks?
>>
>> Steve 40212
>>
>> __________________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Interestingly enough, I just received a catalog from The Yard Store and they are
selling brand new and used knock-offs of the Semco guns for between $40 and
$90.
<http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?Action=3DViewCategory&Category=3D150>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 11:37 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
+1 on having a Semco sealant gun. I went to aircraft spruce and
purchased tubes and nozzles. That way I could buy the quart kit, mix it up myself
and place in the Semco for easy application. You can usually find a good
used Semco on Ebay.
-Sean #40303
http://rv10.stephensville.com
John W. Cox wrote:
> -->
>
> The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without any mess but cost
> more than purchasing product in two parts and mixing manually.
> Nothing can make it quicker, better flow control and less messy than a
> pneumatic sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the most popular size.
>
> I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument to use a baggy.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darton
> Steve
> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
>
>
> Has any one used this type of product when building the fuel tanks? It
> is a product that wipes off the excess Pro seal.
> http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
>
> Does any one have a recommendation for or against using a pneumatic
> sealant gun when building the tanks?
>
> Steve 40212
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The ultimate door latch |
Want/need to steal a car ? ? Walk thru "Wal-Mart" parking lot & look for
the unlocked car with the keys in it. Lock the door, windows up, red
flashing on something and the opportunistic joyriding car thief was keep
walking & looking. It's too easy to find one with the keys in it. Do Not
Archive KABONG (ex-Det. Sgt Fontana PD)
---- Original Message -----
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 7:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: The ultimate door latch
Thieves don't want to spend anytime in the open and will just walk away
from a challenge 95% of the time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks, I'm looking forward to it!
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Henkjan van
der Zouw
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Doorlock
There's a lot of noise on the list about door locks, sorry for posting
one extra.
I designed a door handle with a little lock cylinder built in for my own
use, it simply replaces the original door handle, the base plate uses
the standard screws (and hide them) that hold the inside locking
mechanism so it's completely interchangeable with the standard handle,
just a screwdriver and a hex wrench will do the job. I did not intent to
make it absolute burglar proof because it's an easy job to demolish the
door with a crowbar, large screwdriver etc. it just prevents people
without heavy tools walking in and out, it makes it a bit more difficult
to get in, just like it is by cars.
It's CNC machined from billet and nicely anodised, I will post picture
when it is mounted in a week or two.
Henkjan van der Zouw
ZME v.o.f.
Rijksstraatweg 28
3545NA
Utrecht
Netherlands
tel. ..31 30 6665443
mob. ..31 653235372
fax. ..31 30 6664659
www.zme.nl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuelproof bushings? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
Here's a really stupid question... the bushings used inside the fuel
tanks to hold the aluminum vent tubing are fuel proof right? I only ask
because they don't spend their life immersed in the fuel, they just get
a splashing from time to time. I need to support my capacitive fuel
sender probe thingy (that's the technical term) through a rib, and need
something non-conductive and fuel proof to do it. can I use the same
plastic bushings that are used for the vent knowing that they will spend
most of their life immersed in fuel? Does that make a difference in
their life span, or durability? It shouldn't right?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets |
I have finally come to the location in the plans where it calls for riveting
the cable anchor brackets. I was surprised that the manual calls for blind
rivets (LP4-3). There was so much talk about making special super strong
cable attachment brackets that I question when looking at this rivet
designation, whether the brackets really need to be that strong and if they
were made too strong, whether that might cause a problem some place else.
Those that orderred the custom bracket, are you using solid rivets instead
of the blind ones. Why are the Van's designers wanting blind rivet when
access is completely un-peaded?
Just an interesting question????
John G. 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets |
I believe that the call out for blind rivets is because it's difficult
to impossible to get the cable connected/disconnected without removing
the brackets from the inspection plate. someone felt that it would be
easier to use pop rivets tht could be more easily replaced during an
annual inspection than solid rivets. The most optimum solution would be
an arrangement where An screws could be used and the bracket could be
threaded or alternativly some nut plates attached. once I receive the
CNC bracket, I plan to see if it could be, a; tapped for a #6 or 8
screw. or b. Hard mounted to a broader/wider plate using flush head
rivets, and then putting nutplates on the broader plates, then dimpling
the covers for screws.
Deems Davis # 406
Wings
http://deemsrv10.com/
John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> I have finally come to the location in the plans where it calls for
> riveting the cable anchor brackets. I was surprised that the manual
> calls for blind rivets (LP4-3). There was so much talk about making
> special super strong cable attachment brackets that I question when
> looking at this rivet designation, whether the brackets really need to
> be that strong and if they were made too strong, whether that might
> cause a problem some place else.
>
> Those that orderred the custom bracket, are you using solid rivets
> instead of the blind ones. Why are the Van's designers wanting blind
> rivet when access is completely un-peaded?
>
> Just an interesting question????
>
> John G. 409
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets |
Deems hit it right on the head, when you are putting in the trim cables it is MUCH
easier to put the nuuts on the cable then rivet it to the plate. The issue
about strength came about becasue some od us had nuts pop off the steel plate
with little force which could result in a either no trim or stuck trim situation.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets |
Now that explains a few things. I guess I will wait on the riveting of the
bracket until I really need to and it will give me more time to think of a
removable method.
Thanks,
JG. 409
>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting the elevator trim cable anchor brackets
>Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2006 00:40:24 -0700
>
>
>I believe that the call out for blind rivets is because it's difficult to
>impossible to get the cable connected/disconnected without removing the
>brackets from the inspection plate. someone felt that it would be easier to
>use pop rivets tht could be more easily replaced during an annual
>inspection than solid rivets. The most optimum solution would be an
>arrangement where An screws could be used and the bracket could be threaded
>or alternativly some nut plates attached. once I receive the CNC bracket, I
>plan to see if it could be, a; tapped for a #6 or 8 screw. or b. Hard
>mounted to a broader/wider plate using flush head rivets, and then putting
>nutplates on the broader plates, then dimpling the covers for screws.
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Wings
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>>
>>I have finally come to the location in the plans where it calls for
>>riveting the cable anchor brackets. I was surprised that the manual calls
>>for blind rivets (LP4-3). There was so much talk about making special
>>super strong cable attachment brackets that I question when looking at
>>this rivet designation, whether the brackets really need to be that strong
>>and if they were made too strong, whether that might cause a problem some
>>place else.
>>
>>Those that orderred the custom bracket, are you using solid rivets instead
>>of the blind ones. Why are the Van's designers wanting blind rivet when
>>access is completely un-peaded?
>>
>>Just an interesting question????
>>
>>John G. 409
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
Sean or any sealant gun users,
Did you use a ribbon nozzle to apply Pro seal to
mating parts (instead of spreading it on via a
Popsicle stick). What were the tank parts that you
applied Pro seal to with your sealant gun, when and
how did you use it? Did you mix and then load an empty
cartridge from a quart kit or use the "semkit" tubes
or a combination of the above?
Steve 40212
>
>
> +1 on having a Semco sealant gun. I went to
> aircraft spruce and
> purchased tubes and nozzles. That way I could buy
> the quart kit, mix it up myself and place in the
> Semco for easy application. You can usually find a
> good used Semco on Ebay.
>
> -Sean #40303
> http://rv10.stephensville.com
>
> John W. Cox wrote:
> > -->
> >
> > The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without
> any mess but cost
> > more than purchasing product in two parts and
> mixing manually.
> > Nothing can make it quicker, better flow control
> and less messy than a
> > pneumatic sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the
> most popular size.
> >
> > I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument
> to use a baggy.
> >
> > John
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Darton
> > Steve
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
> >
>
> >
> > Has any one used this type of product when
> building the fuel tanks? It
> > is a product that wipes off the excess Pro seal.
> > http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
> >
> > Does any one have a recommendation for or against
> using a pneumatic
> > sealant gun when building the tanks?
> >
> > Steve 40212
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ====================================
> ====================================
> ====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
Here's the parts from Aircraft Spruce for the cartridges...
09-00758 PLUNGER FOR PRO SEAL CARTRIDGE $.67
09-00759 PRO SEAL CARTRIDGE ONLY 2-1/2 $.66
EA4180 NOZZLE FOR PRO-SEAL KITS $1.20
I ordered the quart kit of sealant from Van's. Mixed, then placed into
the cartridges. I used this for applying on all parts when doing final
tank assembly.
-Sean (#40303)
Darton Steve wrote:
>
> Sean or any sealant gun users,
>
> Did you use a ribbon nozzle to apply Pro seal to
> mating parts (instead of spreading it on via a
> Popsicle stick). What were the tank parts that you
> applied Pro seal to with your sealant gun, when and
> how did you use it? Did you mix and then load an empty
> cartridge from a quart kit or use the "semkit" tubes
> or a combination of the above?
>
> Steve 40212
>
>
>>
>>
>> +1 on having a Semco sealant gun. I went to
>> aircraft spruce and
>> purchased tubes and nozzles. That way I could buy
>> the quart kit, mix it up myself and place in the
>> Semco for easy application. You can usually find a
>> good used Semco on Ebay.
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>> http://rv10.stephensville.com
>>
>> John W. Cox wrote:
>>
>>> -->
>>>
>>> The Semkits allow quick automated mixing without
>>>
>> any mess but cost
>>
>>> more than purchasing product in two parts and
>>>
>> mixing manually.
>>
>>> Nothing can make it quicker, better flow control
>>>
>> and less messy than a
>>
>>> pneumatic sealant gun. The 6 oz canister is the
>>>
>> most popular size.
>>
>>> I will patiently wait for anyone with an argument
>>>
>> to use a baggy.
>>
>>> John
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>>>
>> Behalf Of Darton
>>
>>> Steve
>>> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 8:43 AM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pro Seal Wipes
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>> Has any one used this type of product when
>>>
>> building the fuel tanks? It
>>
>>> is a product that wipes off the excess Pro seal.
>>> http://www.bergdahl.com/Wipes.htm
>>>
>>> Does any one have a recommendation for or against
>>>
>> using a pneumatic
>>
>>> sealant gun when building the tanks?
>>>
>>> Steve 40212
>>>
>>> __________________________________________________
>>>
>> protection around
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>> ====================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
On page 10-6, Step. 2.
Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-loaded the
longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took the
piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see anything
happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not getting
enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in the vise
and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before really
laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up. I'm
ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be helpful.
Thanks
John Jessen
~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
The answer is probably "yes". It sounds like you know what you're
probably doing wrong/not doing. I used a plastic mallet...the one
that came with my C-Fram dimpler. Otherwise, just preload it so that
it's got a good amount of pressure on the angle, then whack it real
close to where it's in the vise. If it doesn't bend, whack it
harder. Once you have bent one a little, you'll get the hang
of it, and then it'll be a piece of cake. Better to ease into
it though, it's harder to bend them back if you overbend.
Tim
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
John Jessen wrote:
>
> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>
> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-loaded the
> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took the
> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see anything
> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not getting
> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in the vise
> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before really
> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up. I'm
> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be helpful.
> Thanks
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Still skinning wings
On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>
> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
> loaded the
> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
> the
> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
> anything
> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
> getting
> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
> the vise
> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
> really
> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
> I'm
> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
> helpful.
> Thanks
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
Yes use a different hammer ...I used a solid plastic one as Tim pointed out
and I had to be careful not to hit to hard as it bent very easily.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 6:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
> The answer is probably "yes". It sounds like you know what you're
> probably doing wrong/not doing. I used a plastic mallet...the one
> that came with my C-Fram dimpler. Otherwise, just preload it so that
> it's got a good amount of pressure on the angle, then whack it real close
> to where it's in the vise. If it doesn't bend, whack it
> harder. Once you have bent one a little, you'll get the hang
> of it, and then it'll be a piece of cake. Better to ease into
> it though, it's harder to bend them back if you overbend.
> Tim
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
>
>
> John Jessen wrote:
>>
>> On page 10-6, Step. 2. Does anyone have a method to get these longerons
>> to bend? I pre-loaded the
>> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took the
>> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
>> anything
>> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
>> getting
>> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in the vise
>> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before really
>> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up. I'm
>> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be helpful.
>> Thanks
>>
>> John Jessen
>> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Just wait 'til you get to the fuselage longerons...
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Still skinning wings
On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>
> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
> loaded the
> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
> the
> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
> anything
> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
> getting
> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
> the vise
> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
> really
> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
> I'm
> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
> helpful.
> Thanks
>
> John Jessen
> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit |
Has anyone installed the ECI angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit on their IO-540?
If so, what size spacer did you use?
Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
John, I just had to straighten the horizontal stab attachment bars a couple
days ago. I didn't have a rubber mallet around so I used a small
sledgehammer (I know this sounds wrong--sledgehammer--airplane, but it was a
small one (probably a 1 or 2 pounder with a short handle)) with a papertowel
folded up and taped onto the ends. It worked great. Much more mass than a
rubber mallet and it didn't hurt the metal. (It did still take a pretty
good tap to get them to bend though).
You seem to only be a few steps ahead of me. If you run into any snags or
gotcha's keep me informed.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
>
> Just wait 'til you get to the fuselage longerons...
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
>
> Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
> instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Still skinning wings
>
> On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>>
>> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
>> loaded the
>> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
>> the
>> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
>> anything
>> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
>> getting
>> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
>> the vise
>> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
>> really
>> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
>> I'm
>> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
>> helpful.
>> Thanks
>>
>> John Jessen
>> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit |
I believe mine is 1.4". Ask for the medium size (lack of better word).
rob kermanj
rv10es(at)earthlink.net
On Jan 25, 2006, at 5:48 PM, Russell Daves wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed the ECI angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit on their
> IO-540? If so, what size spacer did you use?
>
> Russ Daves
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
John,
I bent mine a few weeks ago, and someone else had my thought, so I'll second
it. I took my slow time on the first one, slowly adding alternating
pre-loads and stronger hits until it began to bend. It took a WHILE for me
to get the first one to begin bending, and then it seemed to develop the
bend much more easily. I put it in and out of the vise so many times to
compare it against the skin that I was tired of doing it but knew it was
necessary to take it slow.
When I got to the second one, yes, it went much quicker because I had an
approximate starting point of pre-load/hit strength. Still had a lot of
iterations in/out of the vise but so be it.
Used the 1 - 1 1/2 lb orange dead blow hammer.
Rob
Priming tailcone parts
#392
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 7:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
John, I just had to straighten the horizontal stab attachment bars a couple
days ago. I didn't have a rubber mallet around so I used a small
sledgehammer (I know this sounds wrong--sledgehammer--airplane, but it was a
small one (probably a 1 or 2 pounder with a short handle)) with a papertowel
folded up and taped onto the ends. It worked great. Much more mass than a
rubber mallet and it didn't hurt the metal. (It did still take a pretty
good tap to get them to bend though).
You seem to only be a few steps ahead of me. If you run into any snags or
gotcha's keep me informed.
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
>
> Just wait 'til you get to the fuselage longerons...
>
> Bob #40105
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Carpenter
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:50 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
>
>
> Keep whacking away until it bends. It will work per the
> instructions... but I remember it taking a lot of effort.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> Still skinning wings
>
> On Jan 25, 2006, at 11:07 AM, John Jessen wrote:
>
>>
>> On page 10-6, Step. 2.
>>
>> Does anyone have a method to get these longerons to bend? I pre-
>> loaded the
>> longeron, gave a couple good whacks with the rubber mallet and took
>> the
>> piece over to the skins, laid it out and nothing. I just don't see
>> anything
>> happening. Am I being too gentle, not using the right mallet, not
>> getting
>> enough pre-load. I've tried it with both aluminum protection in
>> the vise
>> and with the plastic protective covers. Nada. I stopped before
>> really
>> laying into it because I was tired and didn't want to screw it up.
>> I'm
>> ready to do more whacking this weekend, so any advice would be
>> helpful.
>> Thanks
>>
>> John Jessen
>> ~328 (Working on the website while doing the business travel thing)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
No kidding, I just finished doing them last night...not only are they long but
pay real attention to start and end marking before smacking away...I marked them
and came back the next day to bend, the longeron gets rotated from the marked
position on the plans and then set in the vise with what appears to be the
foward end facing what "feels" like the rear. Just watch your bed orientation
especially with the 1048 upper longerons where the flange points up but the 1013
points down. Just need to keep you head in the game, watch for the drilling
pattern as well.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
Measurments in "32nd's" seem strange when the next step is to load the angle then
hit with a mallet but the parts fit perfectly when your done and have followed
the steps exactly....just a strange mix of precision measuring combined with
brute force.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
Kind of like football. Put the ball down and then measure to the fraction
of an inch.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
Measurments in "32nd's" seem strange when the next step is to load the angle
then hit with a mallet but the parts fit perfectly when your done and have
followed the steps exactly....just a strange mix of precision measuring
combined with brute force.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nylon Snap Bushings |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
Didn't get a reply from anyone last time I asked, so I'll try again.
Are the nylon bushings (ie: SB437-4) safe to be used in an application
that has them submersed in fuel constantly? Will they react at all?
Break down?
Thanks
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Nylon Snap Bushings |
CJ
If I remember correctly the Van's capacitance plates that I put in the RV-8A
used the snap bushings to run the wire though the bulkheads and the wire was
wrapped around the vent line. Quick call to Van's will solve this. For a
belt and suspenders approach you can completely coat the bushing in proseal.
Noel
RV-10 flying
RV-9A flying and one under construction
RV-8A flying
RV-7
RV-6A (X2)flying
Among the good ones anyway
www.blueskyaviation.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 11:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Nylon Snap Bushings
Hey all -
Didn't get a reply from anyone last time I asked, so I'll try again.
Are the nylon bushings (ie: SB437-4) safe to be used in an application
that has them submersed in fuel constantly? Will they react at all?
Break down?
Thanks
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nylon Snap Bushings |
Chris,
The bushings are made from black nylon and are safe for immersion in fuel.
Risk S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nylon Snap Bushings |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Thanks all! I'll be installing the Skysports capacitance fuel gauge
senders in my tanks as soon as I receive them (two weeks or so).
Hopefully it will be a good alternative to the capacitive senders that
vans doesn't offer :)
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nylon Snap Bushings
Chris,
The bushings are made from black nylon and are safe for immersion in
fuel.
Risk S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
Mine is 1.4".
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 4:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ECI Angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit
Has anyone installed the ECI angle Oil Filter Adaptor Kit on their
IO-540?
If so, what size spacer did you use?
Russ Daves
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bending the Tailcone Longerons |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Something else to watch out for is that the longerons (particularly the F1013R)
will bend out of plane vertically quite a bit and need frequent re-adjustment.
Check the longerons for straightness in the vertical plane frequently. (Ask
how I know!)
Ron
'187 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Friday, 27 January 2006 1:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Bending the Tailcone Longerons
No kidding, I just finished doing them last night...not only are they long but
pay real attention to start and end marking before smacking away...I marked them
and came back the next day to bend, the longeron gets rotated from the marked
position on the plans and then set in the vise with what appears to be the
foward end facing what "feels" like the rear. Just watch your bed orientation
especially with the 1048 upper longerons where the flange points up but the 1013
points down. Just need to keep you head in the game, watch for the drilling
pattern as well.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Anyone have any comment/experience with recommending firewall insulation material?
Fiberfrax?
Koolmat?
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Of the 24+ RV-10s flying, is there anyone besides Vic and Noel with a
three blade combination. It would be nice to hear some performance
details before another sales pitch is posted on the list. I understood
Randy had a reconditioned prop, Doug what are you running? I assume
Scott and Tim are going with the new Hartzell C2YR-1BF/F8068D.
Would you guys speak up and identify what you are now flying with or
going to be flying with?
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
Mark Chamberlain just flew his RV-10 for the first time this week. He is
flying with the 3 blade MT Propeller.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 01/26/2006 9:34:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com writes:
Of the 24+ RV-10s flying, is there anyone besides Vic and Noel with a three
blade combination. It would be nice to hear some performance details before
another sales pitch is posted on the list. I understood Randy had a
reconditioned prop, Doug what are you running? I assume Scott and Tim are going
with
the new Hartzell C2YR-1BF/F8068D.
Would you guys speak up and identify what you are now flying with or going
to be flying with?
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Does ducting for cabin heat come in the FWF kit, or are we on our own to order
that, too?
Thanks,
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Keep this in mind when you're choosing a prop.
1) Older blade designs had a comparatively larger cross section inboard,
mainly for the support of the outer sections and contributing little in
thrust.
2) Some newer design blades have stronger and thinner inboard sections
adding more working blade length to the thrust contribution.
3) There haven't been any huge leaps in technology for propeller efficiency.
4) The swept back tip or "scimitar" design concept was partially developed
to reduce "fly over" noise mainly for the more noise sensitive markets. The
benefit of this was to reduce tip noise/vortices, reduce drag, increase
performance. This was an addition to the "Q"-tip design where the tips were
bent at 90 degrees to the blade but wasn't a huge seller because of the
"bingled" prop look.
5) One of the earlier design quests for a three bladed prop was to achieve
the same overall blade area as the two blade prop but in a smaller package,
with the benefit being a reduced diameter and because of the more slender
shorter blade; you could have a thinner shank area and therefore more blade
working for you per item 2)
6) One of the reasons blades grew from two to three and so on was more an
issue with the engine. A question of absorbing increased HP. As the HP grew
it was impractical to have a huge diameter prop because of ground clearance,
torque issues, tip speed and so on. Think of the early Spitfire and the
later versions. In our case, we don't have any huge engine differences to
contain, so if you're comparing a two blade prop with a three blade prop on
the same engine output the questions you have to ask are based more on
engine output, weight, drag, surface area, tip vortices, appearance,
balance, vibration and so on. The question of 2 blade vs 3 blade isn't
really relevant.
7) For what it's worth, over the years aircraft owners and pilots have
reported back, that a two bladed prop on the same aircraft, same engine, is
a better cruise performer than a three.
8) The newer generation "scimitar" three blade props have been selling well
to parachuting ops and the like as they report better climb performances.
9) Following a good dynamic balance, the three bladed props can be
exceptionally smooth.
10) On the negative, damage to the composite blades where a stone might
breach the edge shield can involve replacement of the entire edge because of
de-bonding and moisture being drawn behind the shield. On the positive, you
can lose a huge chunk of your MT prop and still have it repaired! You may
not even need a bulk strip of the engine. Touch a tip on a Hartzell prop and
you may need to throw the prop away and bulk strip the engine.
11) In my opinion, both companies offer a great product.
What prop am I going to put on my -10?
I don't know,
I thought I'd wait to hear someone with some idea make the call.
$0.02
John
40315# (more important stuff like carpet colors. ;)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Friday, 27 January 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Of the 24+ RV-10s flying, is there anyone besides Vic and Noel with a three
blade combination. It would be nice to hear some performance details before
another sales pitch is posted on the list. I understood Randy had a
reconditioned prop, Doug what are you running? I assume Scott and Tim are
going with the new Hartzell C2YR-1BF/F8068D.
Would you guys speak up and identify what you are now flying with or going
to be flying with?
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
10) On the negative, damage to the composite blades where a stone might breach
the edge shield can involve replacement of the entire edge because of de-bonding
and moisture being drawn behind the shield. On the positive, you can lose a
huge chunk of your MT prop and still have it repaired! You may not even need
a bulk strip of the engine. Touch a tip on a Hartzell prop and you may need to
throw the prop away and bulk strip the engine.
Lycoming say that a prop that hits long grass is reason for a Shockload Inspection.This
has become evident through their service bulletins and AD's recently
published. I take it this is what you refer to as a Bulk Strip?
The fact that a composite blade can be repaired after extensive damage is not a
sound enough reason not to inspect the engine, in fact this is a rather danferous
attitude, if not to yourself, it is to unwary people below your flightpath
and most certainly to those people who come aboard your aircraft as passengers.
Let us not forget that the material specs some of the crankshaft and associated
parts are over 30 -40 years old, and therefore do not posess the strenght of
materials of more invention. I do most certainly agree that some of the service
bulletins are somewhat overkill, but on the otherhand, look at the recall of
crankshafts being replaced free of charge by Lycoming under SB566, I don't think
in light of that particular SB the staement at the top is a safe one. I know
carrying out SB's can be expensive, but it's something that safety has no matter
what industries you're looking at.
Generally a 3-blade prop is slightly finer pitched than a two blade prop. This
makes the 3-blade perform better during groundroll and climb than the two blade
prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
No idea how well it will work, but I'm trying a insulating paint additive from
Hy-Tech.
http://www.hytechsales.com/
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 11:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Firewall insulation
Anyone have any comment/experience with recommending firewall insulation material?
Fiberfrax?
Koolmat?
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I think it came with the finishing kit. The finishing kit, section 50,
is heat ducting. I also ordered an extra 10' chunk. You'll probably
want to have some on hand for maintenance, and, something tells me when
they put together the FWF kit, they only planned for the original
exhaust system. In my kit, there were a couple things missing
because it was designed for the old exhaust.
Tim
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>
> Does ducting for cabin heat come in the FWF kit, or are we on our own to order
that, too?
>
> Thanks,
>
> TDT
> 40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
I'm certainly not advocating any advice on prop strikes, ground or foreign
object strike and what you should do about the engine inspection.
The list of possibilities is endless, including long grass as you point out,
puddles of standing water and a swarm of angry bees. That information is
written in the literature by the manufacturers and take your own advice from
your own engineer who knows.
I make the point that some composite blades can have large repairs, even
splice repairs to tips is possible and therefore all is not necessarily lost
with your expensive investment. Due to the tendency to shatter or grind down
easily, it's possible to have minimum loads transferred to the hub unit and
hence the crank. Not so in a Hartzell compact metal prop. The load transfers
directly to the pre-load shelf ( the shoulder on which the blade is loaded
against to eliminate blade shake) of the hub and it doesn't take much to
damage and is reason enough to scrap the hub.
Any strike is serious stuff, and demands careful and thorough analysis.
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: RAS
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
10) On the negative, damage to the composite blades where a stone might
breach the edge shield can involve replacement of the entire edge because of
de-bonding and moisture being drawn behind the shield. On the positive, you
can lose a huge chunk of your MT prop and still have it repaired! You may
not even need a bulk strip of the engine. Touch a tip on a Hartzell prop and
you may need to throw the prop away and bulk strip the engine.
Lycoming say that a prop that hits long grass is reason for a Shockload
Inspection.This has become evident through their service bulletins and AD's
recently published. I take it this is what you refer to as a Bulk Strip?
The fact that a composite blade can be repaired after extensive damage is
not a sound enough reason not to inspect the engine, in fact this is a
rather danferous attitude, if not to yourself, it is to unwary people below
your flightpath and most certainly to those people who come aboard your
aircraft as passengers.
Let us not forget that the material specs some of the crankshaft and
associated parts are over 30 -40 years old, and therefore do not posess the
strenght of materials of more invention. I do most certainly agree that some
of the service bulletins are somewhat overkill, but on the otherhand, look
at the recall of crankshafts being replaced free of charge by Lycoming under
SB566, I don't think in light of that particular SB the staement at the top
is a safe one. I know carrying out SB's can be expensive, but it's something
that safety has no matter what industries you're looking at.
Generally a 3-blade prop is slightly finer pitched than a two blade prop.
This makes the 3-blade perform better during groundroll and climb than the
two blade prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately? |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
See attached
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately? |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Trying again . . .
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Bending the tailcone longerons |
I'm ready to bend the tailcone longerons today and this was just discussed in the
last couple days. Did I understand someone correctly about not wanting to
drill the holes in the longerons before bending. (ie... bend first then drill
holes and cut the notches)???
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately? |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Third time's the charm?
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Mr. Dunne,
Thank you for the comprehensive overview. However my question is one of
Who is installing What on the RV-10 Currently. I only know of Vic and
Noel, and was wondering first person reports from the field of more than
544 builders that I am tracking. Noel is representing the additional
Hollywood HP of his N325HP special powerplant and I suspect Vic's
beautiful engine is pumping more than 260 at SL (from the grin on his
face). Another great subject.
As of right now, no one has fessed up to what they are installing, so I
believe the flock is following the Mantra from Home. I can here the
whispers now. "Don't stray far from Home, Luke".
Financial considerations may be the reason. I just wanted a head count.
It may be too early for a clear response.
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade package? Or
are they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental flying
RV-10s.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 11:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Keep this in mind when you're choosing a prop.
What prop am I going to put on my -10?
I don't know,
I thought I'd wait to hear someone with some idea make the call.
$0.02
John
40315# (more important stuff like carpet colors. ;)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Friday, 27 January 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Of the 24+ RV-10s flying, is there anyone besides Vic and Noel with a
three blade combination. It would be nice to hear some performance
details before another sales pitch is posted on the list. I understood
Randy had a reconditioned prop, Doug what are you running? I assume
Scott and Tim are going with the new Hartzell C2YR-1BF/F8068D.
Would you guys speak up and identify what you are now flying with or
going to be flying with?
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the tailcone longerons |
Stick with what it says in the manual and be gentle. The bend is so small that
it can be done by hand pressure alone. Leave the 10lbs sledge where it is for
now.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Bending the tailcone longerons
I'm ready to bend the tailcone longerons today and this was just discussed in
the last couple days. Did I understand someone correctly about not wanting to
drill the holes in the longerons before bending. (ie... bend first then drill
holes and cut the notches)???
Bill Britton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately? |
| From: | "2eyedocs" <2eyedocs(at)comcast.net> |
[Laughing] Now that is funny!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7353#7353
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bending the tailcone longerons |
Yes thats was me (hugo 40456)happen to me because you aproch with caution ,you
hit many times and stress the part with high vibrations,mine stress crack at the
hole ,found that the only place to found a replacment was van's, after all
whats is the difference in doing after , you play in the safe side anyway,
hugo
>
> From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
> Date: 2006/01/27 Fri AM 11:32:13 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Bending the tailcone longerons
>
> I'm ready to bend the tailcone longerons today and this was just discussed in
the last couple days. Did I understand someone correctly about not wanting to
drill the holes in the longerons before bending. (ie... bend first then drill
holes and cut the notches)???
>
> Bill Britton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
Just to add to the question - and forgive my ignorance - why doesn't
anyone consider hartzell or other aluminum 3 blade props? I notice that
there are a few of them. Every time there is a discussion about 3 blade
props, it usually boils down to composite versus aluminum, and ease of
service in the field. Isn't there a comparable aluminum 3 blade prop
out there that is acceptable for the mission?
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 9:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Mr. Dunne,
Thank you for the comprehensive overview. However my question is one of
Who is installing What on the RV-10 Currently. I only know of Vic and
Noel, and was wondering first person reports from the field of more than
544 builders that I am tracking. Noel is representing the additional
Hollywood HP of his N325HP special powerplant and I suspect Vic's
beautiful engine is pumping more than 260 at SL (from the grin on his
face). Another great subject.
As of right now, no one has fessed up to what they are installing, so I
believe the flock is following the Mantra from Home. I can here the
whispers now. "Don't stray far from Home, Luke".
Financial considerations may be the reason. I just wanted a head count.
It may be too early for a clear response.
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade package? Or
are they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental flying
RV-10s.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 11:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Keep this in mind when you're choosing a prop.
What prop am I going to put on my -10?
I don't know,
I thought I'd wait to hear someone with some idea make the call.
$0.02
John
40315# (more important stuff like carpet colors. ;)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Friday, 27 January 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Of the 24+ RV-10s flying, is there anyone besides Vic and Noel with a
three blade combination. It would be nice to hear some performance
details before another sales pitch is posted on the list. I understood
Randy had a reconditioned prop, Doug what are you running? I assume
Scott and Tim are going with the new Hartzell C2YR-1BF/F8068D.
Would you guys speak up and identify what you are now flying with or
going to be flying with?
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn walters <lwalters2(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately? |
There's an attachment in my email called winmail.dat. I don't know what
to do with it!!! That could be your problem.
Linn
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
>Trying again . . .
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately? |
Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately?This is going on the wall in my shop!
Steve Mills RV-10
starting SB wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 10:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: FW: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately?
Third time's the charm?
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
I ordered my MT 3 blade as well. Us Austin TX RV10 builders have to
stick together. Of course mine is electric. I looked at your project
last weekend while helping Steitle with his Lancair. I think you could
be ready by May.
Bobby Hughes
40116
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 1:10 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
No secret. I have the MT three blade prop mounted on my RV-10 which I
hope to have flying in 6 - 9 months. Main considerations were light
weight, smooth operation and it looks good. I understand all the cons
of the MT three blade so let's not start a war.
Mark (40043)
=09
________________________________
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:09:26 -0800
=09
=09
Mr. Dunne,
Thank you for the comprehensive overview. However my question
is one of Who is installing What on the RV-10 Currently. I only know of
Vic and Noel, and was wondering first person reports from the field of
more than 544 builders that I am tracking. Noel is representing the
additional Hollywood HP of his N325HP special powerplant and I suspect
Vic's beautiful engine is pumping more than 260 at SL (from the grin on
his face). Another great subject.
As of right now, no one has fessed up to what they are
installing, so I believe the flock is following the Mantra from Home. I
can here the whispers now. "Don't stray far from Home, Luke".
Financial considerations may be the reason. I just wanted a
head count. It may be too early for a clear response.
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade
package? Or are they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental
flying RV-10s.
John - KUAO
=09
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 11:56 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Keep this in mind when you're choosing a prop.
What prop am I going to put on my -10?
I don't know,
I thought I'd wait to hear someone with some idea make the call.
$0.02
John
40315# (more important stuff like carpet colors. ;)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Friday, 27 January 2006 3:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Of the 24+ RV-10s flying, is there anyone besides Vic and Noel
with a three blade combination. It would be nice to hear some
performance details before another sales pitch is posted on the list. I
understood Randy had a reconditioned prop, Doug what are you running? I
assume Scott and Tim are going with the new Hartzell C2YR-1BF/F8068D.
Would you guys speak up and identify what you are now flying
with or going to be flying with?
John - KUAO
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dto
and
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Alarm systems for the RV-10 |
You could also power up a com radio and play a
recorded transmission to the tower or perhaps a remote
mount transponder set to Hijack if the alarm system is
bypassed. That would get everyones attention.... :)
You could also trip the ELT, but by the time they
finally showed up your RV-10 would be up on blocks and
thread-bare.
I think it is reasonable to add a simple system (not
like above) as long as the risk to you and your
certificate in minimal. I like your car alarm idea and
they are very affordable.
You could also use the alarm system to unlock the door
using one of the car servos but this would have the
risk of not being able to get into the plane in the
event of battery failure. It would have the advantage
of locking both sides and I guess you could crawl thru
baggage in a pinch. Standard factory manual door lock
for inflight. Let us know what you come up with!
Eric
--- "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)"
wrote:
> This is an area a gave a very small amount of
> thought to so far. Reason being because there is no
> way I'm going to leave a 50k panel with an unlocked
> door. I am more than happy to replace a broken
> window or even an entire door if it might give an
> extra few minutes of work to a potential thief.
> Thieves don't want to spend anytime in the open and
> will just walk away from a challenge 95% of the
> time. But if they can simply walk up to an aircraft
> and climb in, shutting the door behind them, they
> will almost certainly pick that aircraft as a
> target.
>
> So I will use some method to restrict access to my
> -10 one way or another. In addition I am planning
> on integrating the door warning system with a run of
> the mill auto alarm. I'm sure some people are
> giggling but for less than the price of topping one
> of the tanks I can put in a loud alarm that will
> most certainly deter someone from targeting it.
> Remember, deterrence is the best answer in almost
> all occasions. An easy target has a much, much
> higher probability of being stolen. There used to
> be a show on Discovery, don't recall the name, in
> which a pair of reformed thieves would go around to
> peoples homes and show them just how quickly they
> could steal them blind. In the show the one thing
> they always tried to re-enforce was that a thief
> will not spend any amount of time at a house that
> they can not easily access and they would almost
> always keep walking if they knew it was alarmed.
>
> Just keep in mind the whole goal is deterrence
> because nothing will keep someone from breaking in
> if they want to. You just need to make it a less
> attractive target. We have a lot of theft around my
> in-laws ranch but no one has ever attempted to break
> into my workshop. The primary reason is I made sure
> everyone around knows there is an alarm system on it
> that emails and pages a half a dozen people. I then
> made sure that a few of the employees saw it in
> action.
>
> I may look like a dork when my aircraft flashes it's
> position lights when the alarm arms but I will sleep
> well knowing it will most likely be in the exact
> same condition the next morning, especially if some
> of you with no locks park near by. ;-)
>
> My $0.02 on the matter.
>
>
> Michael Sausen
> -10 #352 Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
Okay! I'll fess up. I flew for the first time this week (40016) and have the 3
blade MT from Jim Ayers on my 10. Way to early (7hrs) (no wheel pants) for any
kind of numbers but I can tell you my first impressions. It runs very smooth.
Most people so far say it sounds more like an electric motor and it feels more
like one on the inside. I had someone check the balance and no adjustment was
necessary it was well below norm specs. The main reasons I went with the MT
was primarily the 18-20 lbs I saved up front on a nose heavy airplane, the smoothness
in which it operates, and obviously the looks. I AM interested in performance,
but if someone gets to where were going a few minutes earlier than me
just because my prop is slower, OH WELL!! When you factor in building technique,
rigging, which muffler system your using(Rvator article) you can argue the
#'s all day long. I wanted less weight, smoother operation and especially, that
sexy 3 blade look. If I'm not happy in a year or so, I'll put a diff prop on.
My suggestion to everyone is to go with your instincts and building criteria
and stop worrying so much about what the other guy has. Mark C. (Temecula, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
I think the 3 blade Hartzell is about 12-14K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Congrat's Mark. I was wondering what the latest was. We haven't talked
on the phone for awhile. Enjoy that plane. Randy 40006
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Okay! I'll fess up. I flew for the first time this week (40016) and have
the 3 blade MT from Jim Ayers on my 10. Way to early (7hrs) (no wheel
pants) for any kind of numbers but I can tell you my first impressions.
It runs very smooth. Most people so far say it sounds more like an
electric motor and it feels more like one on the inside. I had someone
check the balance and no adjustment was necessary it was well below norm
specs. The main reasons I went with the MT was primarily the 18-20 lbs I
saved up front on a nose heavy airplane, the smoothness in which it
operates, and obviously the looks. I AM interested in performance, but
if someone gets to where were going a few minutes earlier than me just
because my prop is slower, OH WELL!! When you factor in building
technique, rigging, which muffler system your using(Rvator article) you
can argue the #'s all day long. I wanted less weight, smoother operation
and especially, that sexy 3 blade look. If I'm not happy in a year or
so, I'll put a diff prop on. My suggestion to everyone is to go with
your instincts and building criteria and stop worrying so much about
what the other guy has. Mark C. (Temecula, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
So what are you seeing for cruise performance? Somewhere close to what
Van's claims, or???
Mark Ritter said:
>
> No secret. I have the MT three blade prop mounted on my RV-10 which I
> hope to have flying in 6 - 9 months. Main considerations were light
> weight, smooth operation and it looks good. I understand all the cons of
> the MT three blade so let's not start a war.
> Mark (40043)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Have YOU flown any Young Eagles lately? |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
Me too, but I plan to fly in May!!
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Ritter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 1:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
No secret. I have the MT three blade prop mounted on my RV-10 which I hope to
have flying in 6 - 9 months. Main considerations were light weight, smooth
operation and it looks good. I understand all the cons of the MT three blade
so let's not start a war.
Mark (40043)
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To:
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Date: Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:09:26 -0800
Mr. Dunne,
Thank you for the comprehensive overview. However my question is one of Who
is installing What on the RV-10 Currently. I only know of Vic and Noel, and
was wondering first person reports from the field of more than 544 builders that
I am tracking. Noel is representing the additional Hollywood HP of his N325HP
special powerplant and I suspect Vic's beautiful engine is pumping more than
260 at SL (from the grin on his face). Another great subject.
As of right now, no one has fessed up to what they are installing, so I believe
the flock is following the Mantra from Home. I can here the whispers now.
"Don't stray far from Home, Luke".
Financial considerations may be the reason. I just wanted a head count. It
may be too early for a clear response.
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade package? Or are
they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental flying RV-10s.
John - KUAO
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 11:56 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Keep this in mind when you're choosing a prop.
What prop am I going to put on my -10?
I don't know,
I thought I'd wait to hear someone with some idea make the call.
$0.02
John
40315# (more important stuff like carpet colors. ;)
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Friday, 27 January 2006 3:33 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Of the 24+ RV-10s flying, is there anyone besides Vic and Noel with a three
blade combination. It would be nice to hear some performance details before
another sales pitch is posted on the list. I understood Randy had a reconditioned
prop, Doug what are you running? I assume Scott and Tim are going with the
new Hartzell C2YR-1BF/F8068D.
Would you guys speak up and identify what you are now flying with or going
to be flying with?
John - KUAO
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | rudder cable fairings |
Did any you who used the fairings install them during the initial tailcone
build? Right now I'm thinking about waiting 'til later so I can see just
how I need to leave clearance for the cable exit. Is this necessary? If
you waited 'til later, how hard was the install? I'm planning on riveting
the ones on the aft tailcone.
Rob
#392 ready to rivet tailcone starting tomorrow!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Nylon Snap Bushings |
Well, I know Van's uses the snap bushings in the fuel tanks to hold the
vent lines as they go through the tank ribs.... I have not heard of
anyone finding pieces of them in the sump or bottom of the tank.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nylon Snap Bushings
-->
Hey all -
Didn't get a reply from anyone last time I asked, so I'll try again. Are
the nylon bushings (ie: SB437-4) safe to be used in an application that
has them submersed in fuel constantly? Will they react at all? Break
down?
Thanks
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
Hi John,
I don't have a complete list. There are around 20 US MT Propeller
assembly/sales facilities.
And believe it, or not; Van's Aircraft is selling the 3 blade MT Propeller
for the RV-10, also.
Besides, after the way some of you treated each other in the past, it would
probably be poor form to provide a list.
I have an idea. Why don't we all just meet at Oshkosh and see who has which
propeller on their RV-10?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 01/27/2006 9:13:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com writes:
(Stuff Cut)
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade package? Or are
they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental flying RV-10s.
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
I plan on being at OSH 2006 with my RV-10, knock on wood.
Russ Daves
#40044 Canopy on.
----- Original Message -----
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Hi John,
I don't have a complete list. There are around 20 US MT Propeller assembly/sales
facilities.
And believe it, or not; Van's Aircraft is selling the 3 blade MT Propeller for
the RV-10, also.
Besides, after the way some of you treated each other in the past, it would probably
be poor form to provide a list.
I have an idea. Why don't we all just meet at Oshkosh and see who has which
propeller on their RV-10?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 01/27/2006 9:13:41 AM Pacific Standard Time, johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com
writes:
(Stuff Cut)
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade package? Or are
they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental flying RV-10s.
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
My two cents worth. I chose the Aerocomposite prop. For weight reduction and
for the construction. At Sun & Fun last year I looked at both MT and
Aerocomposite. The Aero has much better construction and durability. No
wood!! The way the blades are built, you have a much less chance of blade to
hub frailer. I also decided on the 2 blade, mainly for speed. The 3 blade is
smoother, looks better, takes off a little quicker, but slower in cruise,
especially at altitude. I was hoping to make Sun & Fun, but panel will delay
me. I will be at OSH.
http://www.aerocomposites.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.viewPage&page_id=1
Jim Wade
40383
Wings finished
Cabin & Doors on.
-------Original Message-------
From: Mark Ritter
Date: 01/28/06 06:42:59
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Russ - With a little luck I might make OSH 2006. I have really enjoyed
working with Jim Ayers on the three blade MT prop - hope I can meet him in
person at OSH. If you get down to Austin give me a call (I have a an extra
National Football Championship caps if you will wear it in Texas Tech
country). There is one other RV-10 being built in Austin with a rotary
engine.
Hook-em Horns
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 04:59:17 -0600
I plan on being at OSH 2006 with my RV-10, knock on wood.
Russ Daves
#40044 Canopy on.
----- Original Message -----
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Hi John,
I don't have a complete list. There are around 20 US MT Propeller
assembly/sales facilities.
And believe it, or not; Van's Aircraft is selling the 3 blade MT Propeller
for the RV-10, also.
Besides, after the way some of you treated each other in the past, it would
probably be poor form to provide a list.
I have an idea. Why don't we all just meet at Oshkosh and see who has which
propeller on their RV-10?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 01/27/2006 9:13:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com writes:
(Stuff Cut)
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade package? Or are
they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental flying RV-10s.
John - KUAO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I too have an Aerocomposite prop for the exact same reasons. The sales hype
says it will be faster than the Hartzel, we will see!
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
My two cents worth. I chose the Aerocomposite prop. For weight reduction and
for the construction. At Sun & Fun last year I looked at both MT and
Aerocomposite. The Aero has much better construction and durability. No
wood!! The way the blades are built, you have a much less chance of blade to
hub frailer. I also decided on the 2 blade, mainly for speed. The 3 blade is
smoother, looks better, takes off a little quicker, but slower in cruise,
especially at altitude. I was hoping to make Sun & Fun, but panel will delay
me. I will be at OSH.
http://www.aerocomposites.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=3Dhome.viewPage
<http://www.aerocomposites.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=3Dhome.viewPage&page_id=3D1>
&page_id=3D1
Jim Wade
40383
Wings finished
Cabin & Doors on.
-------Original Message-------
From: Mark Ritter <mailto:mritter509(at)msn.com>
Date: 01/28/06 06:42:59
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Russ - With a little luck I might make OSH 2006. I have really enjoyed
working with Jim Ayers on the three blade MT prop - hope I can meet him in
person at OSH. If you get down to Austin give me a call (I have a an extra
National Football Championship caps if you will wear it in Texas Tech
country). There is one other RV-10 being built in Austin with a rotary
engine.
Hook-em Horns
_____
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2006 04:59:17 -0600
I plan on being at OSH 2006 with my RV-10, knock on wood.
Russ Daves
#40044 Canopy on.
----- Original Message -----
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 3 blade props
Hi John,
I don't have a complete list. There are around 20 US MT Propeller
assembly/sales facilities.
And believe it, or not; Van's Aircraft is selling the 3 blade MT Propeller
for the RV-10, also.
Besides, after the way some of you treated each other in the past, it would
probably be poor form to provide a list.
I have an idea. Why don't we all just meet at Oshkosh and see who has which
propeller on their RV-10?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 01/27/2006 9:13:41 AM Pacific Standard Time,
johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com writes:
(Stuff Cut)
Okay Jim, can you publish your client list on the MT 3 blade package? Or are
they all sworn to secrecy until certified Experimental flying RV-10s.
John - KUAO
=09
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
Thanks Randy! Still hard to believe how well it flies right out of the box. Hope
to see some of you other guys around the West this summer.Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
First flight of N104ML on Wed. For those of you wondering, I got bored priming
the cabin top (temporary) so I taped off this design to cover some scuffs on the
sheet metal until painting. Fly's great, working out a few minor issues. Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
More pics in case you're also wondering where my 10 is based. Los Angeles airspace
of course!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
| From: | "2eyedocs" <2eyedocs(at)comcast.net> |
jwadejr(at)direcway.com wrote:
> My two cents worth. I chose the Aerocomposite prop. For weight reduction and
for the construction.
> Jim Wade
> 40383
> Wings finished
> Cabin & Doors on.?
> ?
> [i]----
Jim,
I'm sure this must have been brought up before, but how does the lighter prop affect
W&B? I would think you wouldn't have to add as much balast to the baggage
area to make it less nose heavy. I wonder, though, if by shifting the CG effectively
further back that it would make it more difficult to stay within the
W&B envelope.
Thanks,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7633#7633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder cable fairings |
I agree with Tim. There is access from the top to buck the rivets and
waiting until later will allow you to align the fairing with the cable exit.
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
> Robert G. Wright wrote:
>
>> Did any you who used the fairings install them during the initial
>> tailcone build? Right now Im thinking about waiting til later so I
>> can see just how I need to leave clearance for the cable exit. Is
>> this necessary? If you waited til later, how hard was the install?
>> Im planning on riveting the ones on the aft tailcone.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>>
>> #392 ready to rivet tailcone starting tomorrow!
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
Looks to me like the envelope is wide enough to handle it very well. I
would think the most weight needed would be 25 pounds instead of 50 for solo
or two up front. Even when you load 4 and heavy baggage, I don't think you
can get it too far aft.
Jim 40383
-------Original Message-------
From: 2eyedocs
Date: 01/28/06 13:25:50
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 3 blade props
jwadejr(at)direcway.com wrote:
> My two cents worth. I chose the Aerocomposite prop. For weight reduction
and for the construction.
> Jim Wade
> 40383
> Wings finished
> Cabin & Doors on.?
> ?
> [i]----
Jim,
I'm sure this must have been brought up before, but how does the lighter
prop affect W&B? I would think you wouldn't have to add as much balast to
the baggage area to make it less nose heavy. I wonder, though, if by
shifting the CG effectively further back that it would make it more
difficult to stay within the W&B envelope.
Thanks,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7633#7633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
It'll sit on its haunches if you load it full seats and full baggage. We
experienced that bouncing across the field at OSH this year, and have a new
tail light to show for it. In fact, if you don't fill at least one of the
front seats before filling the back seats, it likes to take a tail dive when
the pilot hits the step. It's your plane, but the last thing I want is to
shift the CG aft. Removing weight is a good thing for when you are flying
heavy, but I would have to move more weight up front to compensate for the
lighter prop in N256H. This is not a new discussion, of course, but it
seems to be a new round of people discussing it. IMHO, it is easier to add
weight to the baggage compartment when flying light than it is taking weight
out of the tail when it is heavy.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Wade
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 3 blade props
Looks to me like the envelope is wide enough to handle it very well. I
would think the most weight needed would be 25 pounds instead of 50 for solo
or two up front. Even when you load 4 and heavy baggage, I don't think you
can get it too far aft.
Jim 40383
-------Original Message-------
From: 2eyedocs <mailto:2eyedocs(at)comcast.net>
Date: 01/28/06 13:25:50
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 3 blade props
jwadejr(at)direcway.com wrote:
> My two cents worth. I chose the Aerocomposite prop. For weight reduction
and for the construction.
> Jim Wade
> 40383
> Wings finished
> Cabin & Doors on.?
> ?
> [i]----
Jim,
I'm sure this must have been brought up before, but how does the lighter
prop affect W&B? I would think you wouldn't have to add as much balast to
the baggage area to make it less nose heavy. I wonder, though, if by
shifting the CG effectively further back that it would make it more
difficult to stay within the W&B envelope.
Thanks,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7633#7633
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Four adults and low fuel will get you past the aft c.g. . . .
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Jim Wade
Sent: Sat 1/28/2006 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 3 blade props
Looks to me like the envelope is wide enough to handle it very well. I would think
the most weight needed would be 25 pounds instead of 50 for solo or two up
front. Even when you load 4 and heavy baggage, I don't think you can get it
too far aft.
Jim 40383
-------Original Message-------
From: 2eyedocs <mailto:2eyedocs(at)comcast.net>
Date: 01/28/06 13:25:50
Subject: RV10-List: Re: 3 blade props
jwadejr(at)direcway.com wrote:
> My two cents worth. I chose the Aerocomposite prop. For weight reduction and
for the construction.
> Jim Wade
> 40383
> Wings finished
> Cabin & Doors on.?
> ?
> [i]----
Jim,
I'm sure this must have been brought up before, but how does the lighter prop affect
W&B? I would think you wouldn't have to add as much balast to the baggage
area to make it less nose heavy. I wonder, though, if by shifting the CG effectively
further back that it would make it more difficult to stay within the
W&B envelope.
Thanks,
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D7633#7633
=09
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Nice job - Mark!
What is the primer on the fiberglass?
In a message dated 1/28/2006 1:11:52 PM Central Standard Time,
10flyer(at)verizon.net writes:
First flight of N104ML on Wed. For those of you wondering, I got bored
priming the cabin top (temporary) so I taped off this design to cover some scuffs
on
the sheet metal until painting. Fly's great, working out a few minor issues.
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
| From: | "2eyedocs" <2eyedocs(at)comcast.net> |
Tdawson(at)avidyne.com wrote:
> Four adults and low fuel will get you past the aft c.g. . . .
> TDT
> 40025
>
I like the idea of decreasing the overall weight. If a composite prop is used
up front, is there any way to redistribute some of the weight away from the rear
to counter the aft cg? The only thing that comes to mind might be repositioning
the batteries. If this is even possible, it wouldn't be enough.
Mark
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7743#7743
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hey all,
Section 29, page 14, step 9 has you countersink the fuse longerons for a AN426-AD3
rivet. Is this correct, or are they countersunk for an 032" skin dimple?
Drilled the F100B, F1040, F1041 assemblies to the WD-1002 and WD-1003 weldments
yesterday. Some listers had previously reported problems with holes running
off the edge of the weldments. Fortunatetly, I double checked before match drilling.
Had I not, my holes would also have drifted off the edge of the weldments.
To all yet to hit this point I would encourage extra care. Removing the
firwall to weldment rivets and replacing the weldments would be a a right pain
in the agates. My observation on the fuse plans is that they are very poor
compared to the emp/wings.
take care
Ron
#187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Just a general request for opinions from everyone.....especially from the flying
10 pilots and the soon to be...
Is there a minimum range of experience you would recommend for undertaking your
own solo and testing program in the RV-10?
John
40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Seat Install Without removing Flap covers |
Shaved seat rail bushing blocks today. About 3/32 on the top sides by 1/2 deep.
This allowed the seats to be installed at an angle until they move forward far
enough to drop down and continue to move forward the rest of the way. Worked
great with flap covers on, even with carpet.
Anh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Mark,
Congrats!... Quite a bit of right rudder while taxiing eh!
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Chamberlain
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 2:09 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First flight
First flight of N104ML on Wed. For those of you wondering, I got bored priming
the cabin top (temporary) so I taped off this design to cover some scuffs on
the sheet metal until painting. Fly's great, working out a few minor issues.
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi John,
I'm not giving you an outright answer to your question, but I always view these
questions and compare them to myth of Rolls Royce automobile dealers; "if you
ask how much they are , you can't afford them".
Maybe a bit more practical; have you flown anything as fast as a -10? Think Saratoga
SP, Turbo Centurion, Beech 36?
Have you ever been caught up in unusual attitudes(unintentional)? If the answer
to these two questions is no, then it's probably better to find someone who has
this type of experience.
Knowing someone's experience is not going to warrant you from having an accident
due to lack of experience during your testfase. Your experience would have to
be comparable on a like for like basis. Your reactions in situations have to
similar and just as fast, if not faster.
If you can get a 'proper' testpilot to do the first couple of hours with you it
is money well spent. It doesn't really matter whether they're civilian or military.
----- Original Message -----
From: John
To: rv10-list
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 6:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Test Flying
Just a general request for opinions from everyone.....especially from the flying
10 pilots and the soon to be...
Is there a minimum range of experience you would recommend for undertaking your
own solo and testing program in the RV-10?
John
40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props3 blade props3 blade props3 blade props3 blade |
props
If you don't mind me asking, what was the price of the Aerocomposite as compared
to Hartzel?
Wayne Edgerton
40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
John,
I would also agree that it's largely an "it depends" question. If you
have a local EAA chapter I would recommend you talk to a First Flight
Advisor. He/She will have video and a checklist of sorts that discusses
this pretty well in addition to how to conduct the fist series of flights.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 1:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Test Flying
Just a general request for opinions from everyone.....especially from the
flying 10 pilots and the soon to be...
Is there a minimum range of experience you would recommend for undertaking
your own solo and testing program in the RV-10?
John
40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
If you are in the AZ area, I recommend getting the test pilot who does the first
flights for Phoenix composites. He flies new Glasair, Glastar, Lanceair 4P,
Thunder Mustang etc. And at $100 per hour his service is a bargain.
----- Original Message -----
From: RAS
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 3:51 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Test Flying
Hi John,
I'm not giving you an outright answer to your question, but I always view these
questions and compare them to myth of Rolls Royce automobile dealers; "if you
ask how much they are , you can't afford them".
Maybe a bit more practical; have you flown anything as fast as a -10? Think Saratoga
SP, Turbo Centurion, Beech 36?
Have you ever been caught up in unusual attitudes(unintentional)? If the answer
to these two questions is no, then it's probably better to find someone who
has this type of experience.
Knowing someone's experience is not going to warrant you from having an accident
due to lack of experience during your testfase. Your experience would have
to be comparable on a like for like basis. Your reactions in situations have
to similar and just as fast, if not faster.
If you can get a 'proper' testpilot to do the first couple of hours with you
it is money well spent. It doesn't really matter whether they're civilian or military.
----- Original Message -----
From: John
To: rv10-list
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 6:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Test Flying
Just a general request for opinions from everyone.....especially from the flying
10 pilots and the soon to be...
Is there a minimum range of experience you would recommend for undertaking
your own solo and testing program in the RV-10?
John
40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
There's a few good links on the RV-10 Wiki...
<http://www.rv10wiki.com/index.php?title=Flight_Test_Info>
-Sean
David McNeill wrote:
> If you are in the AZ area, I recommend getting the test pilot who does
> the first flights for Phoenix composites. He flies new Glasair,
> Glastar, Lanceair 4P, Thunder Mustang etc. And at $100 per hour his
> service is a bargain.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* RAS
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 29, 2006 3:51 AM
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Test Flying
>
> Hi John,
>
> I'm not giving you an outright answer to your question, but I
> always view these questions and compare them to myth of Rolls
> Royce automobile dealers; "if you ask how much they are , you
> can't afford them".
>
> Maybe a bit more practical; have you flown anything as fast as a
> -10? Think Saratoga SP, Turbo Centurion, Beech 36?
> Have you ever been caught up in unusual attitudes(unintentional)?
> If the answer to these two questions is no, then it's probably
> better to find someone who has this type of experience.
>
> Knowing someone's experience is not going to warrant you from
> having an accident due to lack of experience during your testfase.
> Your experience would have to be comparable on a like for like
> basis. Your reactions in situations have to similar and just as
> fast, if not faster.
>
> If you can get a 'proper' testpilot to do the first couple of
> hours with you it is money well spent. It doesn't really matter
> whether they're civilian or military.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* John
> *To:* rv10-list
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 29, 2006 6:05 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Test Flying
>
> Just a general request for opinions from
> everyone.....especially from the flying 10 pilots and the soon
> to be...
> Is there a minimum range of experience you would recommend for
> undertaking your own solo and testing program in the RV-10?
> John
> 40315
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Proseal on trailing edges? |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My question is
whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and if so, is it even feasible
at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so humidity and moisture (read corrosion)
are of concern. I would like to poll the audience and open the floodgates.
I would love to hear what most of you have done, especially any one else
living in a coastal area or that went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first
couple pages scanned or emailable in someway that I can review before going
it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
40518
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7804#7804
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
Eric,
I built my empennage at Alexander; and did not use proseal. Jacob will
prime all of the parts for you and show you how to rivet the trailing
edge so that it will come out straight as an arrow.
Brian
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-N104BS
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
>I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My question is
whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and if so, is it even feasible
at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so humidity and moisture (read
corrosion) are of concern. I would like to poll the audience and open the floodgates.
I would love to hear what most of you have done, especially any one else
living in a coastal area or that went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the
first couple pages scanned or emailable in someway that I can review before going
it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
>
>Eric Kallio
>40518
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7804#7804
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet and holes sizes |
In a message dated 1/28/06 11:53:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com writes:
Section 29, page 14, step 9 has you countersink the fuse longerons for a
AN426-AD3 rivet. Is this correct, or are they countersunk for an 032" skin
dimple?
If you countersink for a 3- rivet, it will accept the rivet or 3/32 skin
dimple that will then have the 3- rivet in it. So to answer your question, the
CSK will work for either a rivet or a skin dimple.
For the confused (like me), The rivets are numbered in 32nds.
The "3-" rivets are 3/32nds. (0.09375") and fit in #40 holes (0.098").
The "4-" rivets are 4/32nds = 1/8" dia. (0.125") fit in #30 holes
(0.1285").
The #40 drills are smaller then the #30.
I also got hung up the issue of what size to drill some of the
stiffeners on the surface that faces the skins HS. The plans can be confusing
at
first. They become obvious when you make mistakes.
The best way to figure out what they are really saying is to flip to
the page with the skin diagram with the rivet call out specs for the section
you are on.
If the rivets called for are AN426 3- then the holes are all 3/32 (#40
drill), so NO surfaces that faces the skin should be drilled larger then 3/32,
or a #40 drill, and they will be flush. The AN470 are the dome shaped
rivets, so no dimple or CSK. The skin layout pages often clear up all the words
on the previous pages.
If the rivets called for are 4- then the holes have to be 1/8 (#30).
It would really help if the plans were like the VS figures with specific
rivets and drill sizes on the drawings as well. They seem to slack on
detail as we go.
If you think about the holes... any dimpled holes usually have a
corresponding Countersunk hole behind it, if the metal is thick enough. If there
is
a doubler behind a countersunk hole, it needs NO cs or dimple since it butts
up to a flat surface. For the new guys.... ( i am a veteran, 1 month into
it) the number on the rivets after the dash is just the length. I hope this
clears up things for some folks.
Steve Just finished dimpling the HS skins and ribs, and doing all the
CSK.
Stephen Blank RV-10 Builder #40499 / C-170B flyer
766 SE River Lane
Port St. Lucie, FL 34983
772-475-5556 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
John,
I have test flown 9 or 10 experimentals now. I would go with the "if you
have to ask, you can't afford it". Here is real deal: and it all comes down
to your comfort level. Most crashes on the first flight are due to pilot
error, not keeping up with the aircraft. For insurance you will most likely
be asked to get 5 hours instruction and then fly 10 hrs solo. Since you
can't get instruction during phase one that obviously puts you in someone
else's aircraft. After you complete that training, then see if you ask how
much for the Rolls.
By the way it is that 15-20 Hr mark that will bite your ass.
Noel
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 11:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Test Flying
Just a general request for opinions from everyone.....especially from the
flying 10 pilots and the soon to be...
Is there a minimum range of experience you would recommend for undertaking
your own solo and testing program in the RV-10?
John
40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Santa Ana winds here in SoCal had just shifted to a southerly wind that was behind
me at the time (15G20)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | New RV-10 builder and web site |
Hello all,
I finally received and started my RV-10 kit. I ordered it on 12/30 (beat the
price increase) and just started this week.
For now I'm using the KitLog pro service for hosting my photos and log. Please feel free to add me to your links if you feel so inclined. The direct link is: http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=3Djrdalton
I live in Michigan, am a 40-something owner of a consulting firm, and I drive a
Cherokee 140 (for now).
Having a ball with the EmpKit!
Jeff
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong man
stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit
belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust
and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again
and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the best, knows, in
the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst, if he fails, at
least he fails while daring greatly." T. Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | New RV-10 builder and web site |
Hey, Jeff! Welcome to a great time!
John Jessen
~328 (tailcone and elevators)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: New RV-10 builder and web site
Hello all,
I finally received and started my RV-10 kit. I ordered it on 12/30 (beat
the price increase) and just started this week.
For now I'm using the KitLog pro service for hosting my photos and log.
Please feel free to add me to your links if you feel so inclined. The
direct link is: http://www.kitlog.com/users/index.php?user=jrdalton
I live in Michigan, am a 40-something owner of a consulting firm, and I
drive a Cherokee 140 (for now).
Having a ball with the EmpKit!
Jeff
40544
"It is not the critic who counts: Not the man who points out how the strong
man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The
credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred
by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up
short again and again ... who spends himself in a worthy cause; who, at the
best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who at worst,
if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly." T. Roosevelt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
NO There is absolutely no need to unless you want to add weight.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 2:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
>
> I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My
> question is whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and if
> so, is it even feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of concern. I would like to
> poll the audience and open the floodgates. I would love to hear what most
> of you have done, especially any one else living in a coastal area or that
> went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first couple pages scanned or
> emailable in someway that I can review before going it would be much
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
> 40518
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7804#7804
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivet and holes sizes |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hi Steve,
-------- If you countersink for a 3- rivet, it will accept the rivet or 3/32
skin dimple that will then have the 3- rivet in it. So to answer your question,
the CSK will work for either a rivet or a skin dimple. --------
You may in fact find that the countersink for a -3 rivet is too small for an 032
skin dimple. If you countersink to flush the head of a -3 rivet, then insert
a dimpled skin into that countersink, you may notice the skin sits a little
proud (ie above) the flange with the countersink. The objective is to have the
dimple sit in the countersink AND to have the skin flush with the underlying
structure.
I have found that countersink depth varies with skin thickness. Just my observation
- other's experience/opinions may vary.
cheers,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
The Proseal is only used to hold the assembly together
while you rivet it. If you have some kind of angle
iron bucking bar you can cleco to it is easily done
without Proseal. Check out Mike Howe's site.
http://www.etigerrr.com/RV10Rudder/rudder_november_19.htm
Mike Howe or Tim Olsen have the plans pages available
thier web-sites in PDF format.
Steve 40212
--- Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
>
> I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a
> couple weeks. My question is whether or not I need
> to proseal the trailing edges, and if so, is it even
> feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of
> concern. I would like to poll the audience and open
> the floodgates. I would love to hear what most of
> you have done, especially any one else living in a
> coastal area or that went to Alexander. Also if
> anyome has the first couple pages scanned or
> emailable in someway that I can review before going
> it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
> 40518
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7804#7804
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
Eric,
I didn't use proseal on my rudder and it came out really nice (IMHO of
course). I live in Iowa, but if I don't think I'd go for the proseal even if
I lived on the coast. If corrosion is a big concern just do a nice job of
primering.
On a related note, a friend of mine building a 9A gave me the idea of
fabricating a squeezer set at just the right angle so you can squeeze the
trailing edge rivets instead of the more complex "back rivet half set and
then change the angle of the gun" technique as per plans. All you have to do
is grind down a flat set to match the trailing edge angle and figure out a
way to keep it square in the squeezer (I just used tape). I put the angled
set on top and a regular flat set on bottom and just went down the line.
I'm sure there are other solutions out there but I think the results of me
back riveting wouldn't have been as nice as using the modified squeezer set.
-Brian
N211BD
#10497
www.n211bd.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 9:21 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
>
> I am on my way to Alexander to start my tail in a couple weeks. My
> question is whether or not I need to proseal the trailing edges, and if
> so, is it even feasible at Alexander? I live in Baton Rouge, LA so
> humidity and moisture (read corrosion) are of concern. I would like to
> poll the audience and open the floodgates. I would love to hear what most
> of you have done, especially any one else living in a coastal area or that
> went to Alexander. Also if anyome has the first couple pages scanned or
> emailable in someway that I can review before going it would be much
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Eric Kallio
> 40518
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7804#7804
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
Can't think of the # right off hand, but it is a PPG epoxy filler primer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Six New Email Lists / Forums At Matronics! |
Dear Listers,
Its my pleasure to announce the addition of six new Email List / Forums to the
aviation line up at Matronics! These new lists support all the usual features
you've come to know and love from the Matronics Email List including full integration
with the All New Web BBS Forums Site!! The new Lists include:
LycomingEngines-List Textron/Lycoming Engines
RotaxEngines-List Rotax Engine for Aircraft
M14PEngines-List Vendenyev M14P Radial Engine
MurphyMoose-List Murphy Moose Aircraft
Allegro-List Allegro 2000, a Czech-built, Rotax-powered Aircraft
Falco-List Sequoia Aircraft's Falco Experimental
To sign up for any or all of the new Lists, surf over to the Matronics Email List
Subscription Form and follow the instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Don't forget to check out the All New Web BBS Forum now available along with all
of the usual message and archive viewing tools at the Matronics Email Lists
site. Surf over to the following URL for information on the BBS Forum:
http://forums.matronics.com
Enjoy the new Lists!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
| From: | "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com> |
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Jeremy:
On your web site, your pre-oiler grounds your mags when on. Why's that?
Can't you have the pre-oiler on when running the engine? I guess I have
seen Infinity's web site mention a pressure switch that could turn the
pre-oiler on/off based on the oil pressure . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris,
Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
They should have done that years ago!
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris, Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 7:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10-List Digest: 23 Msgs - 01/29/06 |
My understanding is that the sole purpose of adding tank sealant to the
trailing edges was to hold the skins+wedge tightly together so they could be
riveted... Maybe I missed something? Back riveting worked well for me too.
Jay
fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
| From: | "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com> |
The pre-oiler grounds the mags so that the engine can be turned over
with the starter while oiling without firing the engine. It keeps the
lazy pilot in the cockpit instead of going outside and hand propping the
engine to break up the cold oil.
Jeremy
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson(at)avidyne.com]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
-->
Jeremy:
On your web site, your pre-oiler grounds your mags when on. Why's that?
Can't you have the pre-oiler on when running the engine? I guess I have
seen Infinity's web site mention a pressure switch that could turn the
pre-oiler on/off based on the oil pressure . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris,
Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
This is the Lazy Pilot. There will also be a switch to engage the
preoiler without grounding the mags for use in flight should the oil
pump fail.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Harris, Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
The pre-oiler grounds the mags so that the engine can be turned over
with the starter while oiling without firing the engine. It keeps the
lazy pilot in the cockpit instead of going outside and hand propping the
engine to break up the cold oil.
Jeremy
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson(at)avidyne.com]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 10:16 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
-->
Jeremy:
On your web site, your pre-oiler grounds your mags when on. Why's that?
Can't you have the pre-oiler on when running the engine? I guess I have
seen Infinity's web site mention a pressure switch that could turn the
pre-oiler on/off based on the oil pressure . . .
TDT
40025
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Harris,
Jeremy P
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 9:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Blue Mountain EFIS One Orientation
All,
As someone pointed out in one of our photos of the Blue Mountain
Avionics EFIS one over the weekend, our unit is mounted differently than
the website recommends. Greg Richter's gang has a modification
available to install the BMA EFIS One CPU rotate 90 degrees so the
connectors point aft making install in the -10 much easier. Anyone out
there considering the BMA EFIS one should definitely consider having
them change the orientation of the CPU for you. This requires rotating
some of the accelerometers in the box and recalibrating. However, it's
well worth it when you're short on space like we are in the -10 panel.
http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm
Jeremy P. Harris
Integrated Missile Defense
BMDS Architectures Lab
The Boeing Company
Washington, DC
Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T
Cell: (703) 627-6500
Fax: (703) 414-6372
MC: 793C-G007
Office: 825B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according intructions
I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the tail cone
to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected ,then
the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if is
a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete controls surfaces
to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us,
Hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Proseal on trailing edges? |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Proseal on trailing edges? |
Rick from Vans there is no need to put it in!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 3:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Proseal on trailing edges?
One thing that can be said for the proseal on the trailing edges, it fills the
area between the skins and any small gaps (minute but they do exist) that may
form after riveting. It can be sanded and painted and will help to provide a
better finished product, it doesn't weigh that much and I am happy I used it....and
It means I also followed the plans. That does mean something to me, for
my own piece of mind.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net> |
| Subject: | VS-1003 Countersinking |
Hello, I am new to the list and started the VS for my -10.
Here is my question: I countersunk every second hole of the right flange of
the VS-1003 and I now the hole in the VS-1003 has the size that an AD3
rivet head fits just about through. the rear spar cap holes are still #40.
Will this be still ok to rivet the skin on?
Best Regards
Michael # 511
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
We installed the trim after the tail was completely assembled on #40241, so
you can take it off as well. You can bend the trim cable enough to thread
the bracket on, at least we could, without drilling out the rivets. You
should just need to take of the emp fairing, like Marcus said.
I don't see any reason why you couldn't fit all of the tail surfaces to the
cone after it is assembled to the fuse. I am sure they have it in the plans
in that order because the EMP/CONE kit is first and that is part of it. I
can't think of any other way. I don't think it could be inaccurate just on
the cone, but it if it more convenient to do it later (ie, only assemble it
once when the plane it finished and painted), then I can't see any reason
not to. ANYBODY, please let me know if there is any reason that this would
not be the case, because I am planning on doing that on #40415 as well
unless there is a good reason not to.
On the trim motor mounting, if you want to put your ELT back there in the
tail, that trim mount can hold a couple of nut plates that will make the ELT
easier to install and remove when you get to that. This would be much
easier to do before all of the tail surfaces are installed.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gommone7(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: hugo rv10
Here is a question for somebody allready finish the tail cone ,according
intructions I have to full rigged the control surfaces before connect the
tail cone to the fuselage /cabin.
Will not be more logic to do this after the complete fuselage is connected
,then the full alignement will be more accurate?
in another issue ,how the elevator trim motor can be service ,or replace if
is a problem with it ,from wath I can see ,need to dissy. the complete
controls surfaces to acces it.do I'm wrong.
Thanks for the time the guys ahead dedicated to instruct us, Hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | See a built RV-10 |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
All,
I am at the point where seeing and photographing a completed RV-10 would
be a big plus. I am in Arlington, VA and would be interested in
visiting someone with a completed 10. Any volunteers?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net> |
| Subject: | See a built RV-10 |
First week in April 325hp will be in the area.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: See a built RV-10
All,
I am at the point where seeing and photographing a completed RV-10 would
be a big plus. I am in Arlington, VA and would be interested in
visiting someone with a completed 10. Any volunteers?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | See a built RV-10 |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Great. I'd love to see your 10.
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Noel & Yoshie Simmons [mailto:noel(at)blueskyaviation.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: See a built RV-10
First week in April 325hp will be in the area.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: See a built RV-10
All,
I am at the point where seeing and photographing a completed RV-10 would
be a big plus. I am in Arlington, VA and would be interested in
visiting someone with a completed 10. Any volunteers?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Cleaveland Covers |
We finally have a price for the RV10 canopy cover. This will be a
lightweight travel cover like the others we offer. Weight is 2.6# and color
is grey (if we have enough demand we can get tan also.) The cost is $245
and we will have them at the end of February. We are ordering enough for
what we think will be the first few months.
If you place an order by Thursday we will give you a one time 15% price
break ($208.25) just so we can "outguess" the initial surge of orders. To
order or view photo go to:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=RVCC10
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jwik <jwik(at)crary.com> |
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aerosol primer |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
jwik wrote:
>
> Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
> Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Hi Jay,
I buy it online here:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=3D756
5&cat=3D43>
GBP 988 Self Etching Primer in Aerosol
John - $00.02
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same
product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
Try Aviall (aviall.com) Head Office in Dallas. I think they are
distributors.
John
40315
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Wednesday, 1 February 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an IO-540-C4B5
(1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone interested, please
contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
Thanks, Jim Combs
N312F
40192 - Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I have had very good results with the Dupont self etching primer in an
aerosol can. Also the SEM which is a tad cheaper. They are both available in
green or grey from automotive paint supply shops. See attached pic.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
John, link no worky. :(
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:37 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aerosol primer
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
5&cat=43>
GBP 988 Self Etching Primer in Aerosol
John - $00.02
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same
product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
====================================
====================================
====================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Jay,
I use SW988. No, the local SW interior paint dealers in my town didn't know
what I was talking about either, but they could provide MSDS and spec sheets
on it. Just down the road and around the corner I get my supply from the
Paint and Industrial supply company. You need to find a company that stocks
automotive and other industrial paints; any decent sized town should have
one. I ask for mine at the counter. They have to go into their warehouse
to get it. It's not on the showroom shelves, but they know exactly what I'm
asking for when I say, "I need some Sherwin Williams 988." I get a slight
discount when I buy a case (12 cans). Any little bit helps!
Rob
#392 riveting tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
interested in investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aerosol primer |
I'm using the dupont rattle can on my VS and rudder now at it is working out
just fine. $4.00 a can from Murrays Discount Auto. It's green,
self-etching primer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: aerosol primer
>I have had very good results with the Dupont self etching primer in an
> aerosol can. Also the SEM which is a tad cheaper. They are both available
> in
> green or grey from automotive paint supply shops. See attached pic.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:57 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
>
>
> Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
> aerosol primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at
> a Sport-Air workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
>
> In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams
> dealers (Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too
> interested in investigating it for me.
>
> Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
>
>
> Thanks:
>
> Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
7220 NAPA primer is the same product packaged by SW for NAPA, slightly
different color. Any local NAPA store. Better yet 4115S Dupont self-etching
primer is available from any Dupont Automotive Refinish Store, check the
yellow pages. The advantage to the 4115s is that it is a new product and
actually has some corrosion protection designed in. Some, not much!
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 4:57 PM
Subject: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an aerosol
primer that works well.. In speaking with one of the leaders at a Sport-Air
workshop last weekend, he recomended the exact same product.
In calling around today, I can't find any local Sherwin Williams dealers
(Fargo ND) who know anything about it, nor do they seem too interested in
investigating it for me.
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to order?
Thanks:
Jay Wik: early on in with the Empennage kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Drury" <mark(at)skytrans.com.au> |
This is a warning for all of you when you get your kits transported. If you receive
your kit and it has ANY sort of visible damage to the crate DO NOT ACCEPT
IT. I have been caught out badly. My empennage kit turned up while I was at work
and my wife signed for it. When I got home it was obvious a forklift had put
the tynes straight through the side of the box. When I opened the box the skins
for the tailcone were both damaged. I rang the transport company who asked
me to get a quote. Vans provided me with a quote, but, for reasons only known
by them actually sent the replacement skins!! A couple a weeks later I get a
phone call saying your shipment from Vans has arrived when would you like it
(I live in Australia so everything we order has to go through customs before the
transport company can send it). So, after parting with $850 just for the transport
of two skins I accepted them.
To cut a long story short.... six months later the best Eagle Air can do to compensate
me for the damage is to give me a cheque for $250 to cover the cost of
the parts. So I'm $850 out of pocket for damage that was totally the fault of
the transport company. Upset?? Understatement.
So.... do not accept your kits if there is any external damage, do not under any
circumstances use Eagle Global, that's EAGLE GLOBAL TRANSPORT, E.A.G.L.E. G.L.O.B.A.L,
and if you are an Australian do not use NQX Transport. And if you get
a quote from Van's, ask them not to ship it. Der!!
Once again, I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
......I must not use EAGLE GLOBAL,
Mark Drury
Cairns, Australia
Builder 40436
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
I'm confused... I'm currently riveting the bottom skins on the center
fuselage and if you take a look at the rivet callout, Section 26, page 8, it
shows rivets on the leading edge of the F-1077 skin, and nothing on the
mating trailing end of the F-1076 skin. To me this is backward considering
the overlap should be with air flow and not against it. The previous page
seems correct with the F-1076 on top of the F-1077. This is just the
opposite of the rivet callout page. Is my thinking correct?
Thanks!
Sean Blair
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I am planning my internal paint process for the fuse. I have used Valspar Super
Anzapon fluid resistant primer for corrosion protection on all bits so far and
have been delighted with the results. However, because this paint is fluid
resistant and does not need a topcoat (like most primers), I am curious to know
how the primer is treated to accept a final coloured topcoat. Does anyone
have any experience with topcoating these fluid resistant 'primers'?
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I had this problem when I was in business. Our freight rep told us to sign
for x # of packages uninspected freight. So if there is dammage you can
call the inspector fro the freight company and file a claim. If you sign as
uninspected you are not agreeing to the boilerplate on the bill of lading
that says the you recieved it in good condition. Drivers hate it when you
sign like that, but tough.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Eagle Air
Mark,
Sorry to hear but hopefully being able to vent makes some of the pain go
away...at least Van's came through and sent new skins...
I know several of us have our cameras at the ready when the delivery
arrives, never let the driver go until you verify no damages and document
ALL damages found. If I were you I'd hit your wife up for the $850...It's
all her fault!!! JUST KIDDING! :)
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3Dto
and much
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D-Matt
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
You can also get it at Napa, it is made by SW and relabeled for Napa, it
is 7220 self etching primer
Dan
40269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
jwik wrote:
>
> Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
> Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Hi Jay,
I buy it online here:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
5>
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
Cc: jim(at)CombsFive.Com
Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
---- jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
>
> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an IO-540-C4B5
(1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
>
> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone interested, please
contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
>
> Thanks, Jim Combs
> N312F
> 40192 - Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Tailcone longeron alignment |
On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of the
longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck. Aligning
between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble getting
the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center
of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have the
problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the aft
deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and actually all
the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is: is it absolutely necessary
to have it completely flush with the aft deck all the way along it??? Did
anybody else have this problem??? If it needs to be completely flush, how much
force is OK to use before I have to start bending on the longeron???
Bill Britton
RV-10 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone longeron alignment |
I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The misalignment
spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in the center of
the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe my problem. If it's
left this way will it affect the way the top skins line up later, or possibly
anything else???
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of the
longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck. Aligning
between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble getting
the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center
of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have
the problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the
aft deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and actually all
the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is: is it absolutely necessary
to have it completely flush with the aft deck all the way along it???
Did anybody else have this problem??? If it needs to be completely flush, how
much force is OK to use before I have to start bending on the longeron???
Bill Britton
RV-10 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jwik <jwik(at)crary.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerosol primer |
Great help!
Found the NAPA 7220 easily and will look into the other options as well!
Thanks all!
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
>You can also get it at Napa, it is made by SW and relabeled for Napa, it
>is 7220 self etching primer
>Dan
>40269
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
>Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:17 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
>
>
>jwik wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
>>
>>
>
>
>
>>Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
>>
>>
>order?
>
>Hi Jay,
> I buy it online here:
><http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
>5>
>
>-Dj
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | next tailcone question |
On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the side skins
and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in the skins are small holes
that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far. The instructions later on show
the skins in the holes to be riveted on with AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use a
3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I missing something completely???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: next tailcone question |
I have plans revision 11/3/03 of that page, and step 2 says 3/32". (see
attachment)
-Jim 40384
Bill and Tami Britton wrote:
> On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the
> side skins and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in
> the skins are small holes that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far.
> The instructions later on show the skins in the holes to be riveted on
> with AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use a 3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I
> missing something completely???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | next tailcone question |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Bill, I found that mistake on the plans 2 years ago. Call Tom Green and
he sent a letter to all of the early builders. There are several updates
to the plans that you will need to get if you don't have them. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 1:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: next tailcone question
On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the side
skins and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in the skins
are small holes that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far. The
instructions later on show the skins in the holes to be riveted on with
AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use a 3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I missing
something completely???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Tailcone longeron alignment |
I had the same problem, mine was less than 1/16 so I just riveted it, I did
not put it under a lot of tension to get it closer.
Rene' Felker
40322
Fuselage
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami
Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The
misalignment spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in the
center of the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe my
problem. If it's left this way will it affect the way the top skins line up
later, or possibly anything else???
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton <mailto:william(at)gbta.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of
the longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck.
Aligning between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble
getting the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards
the center of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I
start to have the problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the
ends (ends of the aft deck that is). I can force it a little closer than
this (and actually all the way flush) with pretty good force. My question
is: is it absolutely necessary to have it completely flush with the aft deck
all the way along it??? Did anybody else have this problem??? If it needs
to be completely flush, how much force is OK to use before I have to start
bending on the longeron???
Bill Britton
RV-10 tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Gents (& ladies?):
Another fellow in my office who is the resident Excel guru has put
together a real nice W&B spreadsheet. You are welcome to use it - just
enter your aircraft information. It can accommodate data for up to 6
aircraft.
Enjoy! Anyone who wants to post this on a site is welcome, too.
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
It came out of a Maule. I helped the owner of the engine sell it to Jim.
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Cc:
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
>
> Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
> ---- jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
>>
>> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an
>> IO-540-C4B5 (1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
>>
>> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone
>> interested, please contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
>>
>> Thanks, Jim Combs
>> N312F
>> 40192 - Fuselage
>>
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>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
Cc: Russell Daves
Does it have a govoner pad on the nose case?
---- Russell Daves wrote:
>
> It came out of a Maule. I helped the owner of the engine sell it to Jim.
>
> Russ Daves
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
> To:
> Cc:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
>
>
> >
> > Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
> > ---- jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
> >>
> >> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an
> >> IO-540-C4B5 (1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
> >>
> >> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone
> >> interested, please contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
> >>
> >> Thanks, Jim Combs
> >> N312F
> >> 40192 - Fuselage
> >>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: next tailcone question |
Thanks for the heads up. I'm glad I caught it BEFORE I drilled. As for the updates,
where can I find them. Are all of them listed on the Vans website or do
I look elsewhere??
Bill Britton
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 3:56 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: next tailcone question
Bill, I found that mistake on the plans 2 years ago. Call Tom Green and he sent
a letter to all of the early builders. There are several updates to the plans
that you will need to get if you don't have them. Randy
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 1:29 PM
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: next tailcone question
On page 10-11 step 2 it says to match drill the holes common to the side skins
and the F1032 longerons with a 1/8" drill. The holes in the skins are small
holes that have all been drilled to 3/32 so far. The instructions later on show
the skins in the holes to be riveted on with AN426AD3-6 rivets. Do I use
a 3/32" or 1/8" drill??? Am I missing something completely???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core |
Yes, and there is a prop governor attached. I don't know what type governor it
is. It looks different than the one on the C4B5. I will check tomorrow.
I am hoping that any prop governor will work with any hydralic prop? This is all
new to me.
Comparing the two engines from an external point of view the only difference appears
to be the accessory case on the rear. The same parts are there, but located
in slighty different areas of the accessory case.
Thanks, Jim C
============================================================
From: sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net
Date: 2006/02/01 Wed PM 05:44:00 EST
CC: Russell Daves
Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
Does it have a govoner pad on the nose case?
---- Russell Daves wrote:
>
> It came out of a Maule. I helped the owner of the engine sell it to Jim.
>
> Russ Daves
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
> To:
> Cc:
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:46 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: O-540-J1A5D Engine Core
>
>
> >
> > Hey Jim, what did the J1A5D come out of?
> > ---- jim(at)CombsFive.Com wrote:
> >>
> >> I had pursued several contacts for an engine and ended up with both an
> >> IO-540-C4B5 (1100 Hours) and a O-540-J1A5D core.
> >>
> >> I am looking to sell the O-540-J1A5D core. If there is anyone
> >> interested, please contact me off list. I am located in Lexington, Ky.
> >>
> >> Thanks, Jim Combs
> >> N312F
> >> 40192 - Fuselage
> >>
> >>
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============================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
I was just wandering through the archives looking for info on v
speeds for the RV-10. There were a couple spreadsheets that you can't
link to anymore, but I think most of them were weight & balance related.
Just wondering if someone would post v speeds so I can get an idea of
the ballpark. I'm not looking for "the definitive answer", just an
approximate. Maybe those of you flying could chime in?
Thanks
cj
#40410
wings
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mani Ravee" <maniravee(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I would still look for a local source for the Dupont primer in an aerosol
form ( see pic in my original post). Good company which has brought out a
very competitive product. Body shop and painting folks trust products from
Dupont. I have used it and like it so far. Not to belittle SW. My Cessna
now, I chose to go with all SW products and have Get glow paint and primers
on it when we stripped and completely redid it. So there. But then its ONLY
A CESSNA !!! :-)
Mani
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwik
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
Great help!
Found the NAPA 7220 easily and will look into the other options as well!
Thanks all!
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
You can also get it at Napa, it is made by SW and relabeled for Napa, it
is 7220 self etching primer
Dan
40269
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: aerosol primer
jwik wrote:
Previous posts referred to a Sherwin Williams product: SW988 as an
Does anyone know of a vendor, either on-line or that I can call to
order?
Hi Jay,
I buy it online here:
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
<http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=756
5 <http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565>
>
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailcone longeron alignment |
Hi, bill ,Hugo here.if you do not seat flush with the skin I thinks will change
the angle of attack of the horizontal stabilizer,the piece cost only 15 box,and
shipp.by air is very cheap(look I now the problem Ah-h)
Hugo
>
> From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
> Date: 2006/02/01 Wed PM 04:00:50 EST
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>
> I checked the measurements and it is only off by 1/16, not 1/8". The misalignment
spans about 7 to 8 inches long and is worst (about 1/16) in the center of
the span. Attached are a couple pictures to help describe my problem. If it's
left this way will it affect the way the top skins line up later, or possibly
anything else???
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bill and Tami Britton
> To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 2:40 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron alignment
>
>
> On page 10-11 step 1 you clamp the longeron in place. The apex (corner) of
the longeron is flush with both the F1073 side skins and the F1014 aft deck.
Aligning between the longeron and side skin is good but I'm having trouble getting
the longeron to align perfectly with the F1014 aft deck. Towards the center
of the aft deck (near where the longeron bend is) is where I start to have
the problem. It is within 1/8" in this area and good on the ends (ends of the
aft deck that is). I can force it a little closer than this (and actually
all the way flush) with pretty good force. My question is: is it absolutely necessary
to have it completely flush with the aft deck all the way along it???
Did anybody else have this problem??? If it needs to be completely flush, how
much force is OK to use before I have to start bending on the longeron???
>
> Bill Britton
> RV-10 tailcone
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Ted on RV list wrote:
> Maybe I'm missing something, but when I try to do anything with this
> spreadsheety, I can't cause its all protected and needs a password.
Hi Ted,
You wouldn't happen to be using OpenOffice would you?
If so, upgrade to the latest version. There is a bug in the
older versions that causes this password issue with
spreadsheets (yes, I found this the hard way... :-) )
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Zaon Traffic System |
Anyone fimiliar with the Zaon flight systems traffic avoidance system ?
Looks promising and has a RS232 output which may make it compatible for
showing traffic on a GRT. And from what I've read it will pick up traffic
pretty much anywhere in the USA.
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | website problem??? |
I'm trying to go to Safeair1's website and I keep getting an error message when
I get there. Anybody else experiencing this???
I'm also curious if anybody flying with the Safeair1 static ports could give some
feedback on their performance. Are they accurate??? I know that it looks
like a pretty nice kit and user friendly with the quick disconnects but I've been
reading in the archives how the flush static kits don't seem to be as accurate
as the "dome-type" that Vans offers.
Any hints/suggestions???
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Appears to be a great adhesive. |
Just thought I would share this with you all. I have used three metal epoxy
adhesives so far and the one I am most impressed with is a product called
"Achor-Tite". This product is trademarked under this name and is made in
California.
The product claims to have holding strength of 2500psi tensil strength and
as impressive as that is, what I think is even better is that it has an
ability to have 30% elongation before deformation. It claims impact
resistence, meaning it is not brittle. It has a set time of 3-4 hours, but
parts need to be in contact within one hour. 100% cure in one week. It is
not moisture sensitve once set, can be used for marine applications. I bonds
several different mediums.
In actual use what I found most interesting is that I cut a small piece of
aluminum house flashing to mix this stuff and the left over cured adhesive
will not come off the (smooth/polished) aluminum flashing. Even if I bend
this thin flashing over and over, the epoxy will not seperate. That is
impressive. I had used this stuff to glue in my horizontal stab nose ribs a
week before I riveted them in. I was not aware of this flashing result until
I used it again that I played with the excess on the flashing.
Perhaps a drilled out rivet left a slightly enlarged hole. Use of this
product in addition to a backing plate might give one a little better piece
of mind when you re-rivet it.
P.S. I am not advocating patching up your mistakes and being comfortable.
You are your own engineer and judge.
John G. #409
elevator trim tabs completed, difficult access for the rivets at the control
horn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Big tip on connecting the elevator trim |
Here's one for the archives....
Tonight I installed my elevator trim. Connecting the
trim wires on the remote ends is the last of my wiring to
connect, so I'm happy about that. I spent close to an
hour or more trying everything I could to get the trim cables
pushed from the forward part of the elevator through the snap
bushings and coming out the back. It just was NOT going to
happen. There was almost no way to get in there to align
the cable with the holes inside the HS either. Especially
doing it with the Vertical Stab mounted in the way, it was
just not going to happen.
Then I had one of those fleeting moments of brilliance....
and after that, it took only a few minutes to get both
of them through. Save this tip if you haven't done this
yet.
First, get some wire like coathanger wire. I used some
old aluminum pin material from some hinges used in previous
construction. Put a light in the center of the HS, towards
the forward part. Use the light to sight into the snap
bushings from the rear and feed that wire up to the front.
With the wire in, use a needle nose to pull it out the
entrance point for the cable. Tape onto that something
that's about 3/16" or 1/4" thick and flexible. Maybe
pitot tubing...I used scrap pieces of strobe wiring. You'll
need about 2.5-3' of it.
Pull that stuff through except for a few inches to work with.
Use some heat shrink to join the end of the trim cable to
the end of the flexible stuff, straight and inline.
Now you can pull gently on that flexible line and it should
feed through relatively snag free, guiding the trim cables
through all of the snap bushings. Do each side about 6"
at a time until they're both out.
Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim
anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after
seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would
recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you
need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had to
whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle
so they'd line up better. I had previously soldered them
up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher
to do now. Do it all at once when you do it. Also, for
future reference, I don't think there's really any benefit
to hooking up that trim system until you're almost done with
your final assembly. I see no reason why it hindered me
in the building, and without it installed it gave me more
room to work in the tailcone pulling and attaching wires
and stuff.
Hope that saves a few people a few combined hours of time.
Wish I'd have started that way.
Tim
--
Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual
batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody
have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries
I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray???
Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who are
considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations???
Bill
RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep
tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual,
but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source,
please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zaon Traffic System |
I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also
has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin
480.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I ordered them from Corporate Express, they have a nice hard side 3 ring
binder, and make sure to get some of the self sticking paper
re-enforcement holes
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual?
I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder
for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If
anyone knows a source, please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
I am plannning on the Subaru H-6 for my -10, Eggenfellner recommends two Odyssey 680 batteries. As far as location is concerned, I have not reached that point, however since the H-6 is about 60 lbs lighter than the Lycosaur, it would be best from a weight and balance point of view to locate the batteries under the cowl. You can get additional information at Eggenfellners web site http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/
Steve Mills
40486
working on wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill and Tami Britton
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Batteries
I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual
batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody
have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries
I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray???
Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who
are considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations???
Bill
RV-10 Tailcone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
I use standard three ring binders and fold the drawings in half. I unfold
the drawing I am working on and leave any uncompleted drawings unfolded.
Makes for easy reference when you have to jump back and forth. I have used
1, 1.5, 2 and 3 inch binders and think the 1.5 inch works the best. But...I
still pull out pages and have to put on paper A** H*** (reinforcement rings)
when I do. It just makes it a lot easier in the binders.
Rene' Felker
40322
Fuselage
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I
keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my
manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a
source, please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the
hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk
and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted
#8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went
this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something
to pinch and hold them together.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I
keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my
manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a
source, please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
| From: | "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen(at)dts9000.com> |
To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape
along the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again
and you have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost:
0.01 cents per page.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
Lauritsen - Work
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from
the hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I
countersunk and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and
countersunk and inserted #8 screws through the front to sandwich all of
the pages together. I went this route mainly because I had so many
ripped pages that I needed something to pinch and hold them together.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual?
I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder
for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If
anyone knows a source, please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | 3 ring binder for manual |
I just rip each page out (I've given up trying to keep the holes from
ripping), immediately spill some hot tea on it to give it its proper
staining, fold it up and stuff it in my briefcase so I can unfold it in the
airport and look at it seriously hoping to impress someone with my technical
acumen. Mainly I take the page out so I can have that one page near,
beside, on top of the work at hand. Then, once finished with it, I take it
home with me so it's near the computer and I can enter my notes and time,
then finally onto a "completed" file of other, heroically stained and
mangled pages. War is war. I stand on the front line between aluminum and
civilization. You need me on that line; you want me on that line. I don't
have the time, nor the inclination to pamper my pages.
Histrionically yours,
John Jessen
~328 (skinning the Tailcone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape along
the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again and you
have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost: 0.01 cents
per page.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen -
Work
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the
hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk
and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted
#8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went
this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something
to pinch and hold them together.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual
Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I
keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my
manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a
source, please let me know.
Thanx
Chris Hukill
Figuring out my aux fuel tank system
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zaon Traffic System |
I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System
I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which
also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin
480.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Zaon Traffic System |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on
other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will bounce
off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground radar, and
there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see another
aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder.
Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that generates its own
"pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder, regardless of where
you are.
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System
I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such
as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at
http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds
I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning
towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing
out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the
Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton <mailto:weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System
I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600
system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton
units and the Garmin 480.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Zaon Traffic System |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
It also looks like the Zaon uses altitude separation and range to
prioritize threats (of which it can only show three at a time).
Ryan and other TSO'ed traffic sensors use "tau", which is a computed
time of closest approach of the target. This allows, say, a Learjet
that is further away from you, but closing at 450 knots, to be a
higher-priority threat than a Piper Cub that is closer to you, but only
moving at 90 knots . . .
TDT
40025
January 18, 2006 - February 02, 2006
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ay