RV10-Archive.digest.vol-az

February 02, 2006 - February 20, 2006



      
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From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton <mailto:weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin 480. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
Date: Feb 02, 2006
Does'nt ground radar cover most all the continental US ? And as such would'nt the passive system such as the Zaon be more capable than mode S ? Still trying to figure out all this active and passive thing. Pretty neat stuff and truly mind boggling at the advancements being made. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Dawson-Townsend To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will bounce off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground radar, and there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see another aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder. Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that generates its own "pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder, regardless of where you are. TDT 40025 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brinker Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 1:02 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I can't justify spending 10k or so on a traffic system such as the Ryan. The Zaon is about $1800. which can be found at http://www.zaonflight.com/ With technology expanding by leaps and bounds I am holding out for a bit to see what emerges next. I was leaning towards the Garmin modes S GTX330 but after learning the FAA is fazing out mode S coverage and also only good when in mode S radar coverage the Zaon XRX is looking appealing if it will do all it claims. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Edgerton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 5:48 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic System I haven't heard of the Zaon but I am installing the Ryan TAS600 system, which also has RS232 that I can be run directly into the Chelton units and the Garmin 480. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2006
Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic System
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Brinker wrote: > Does'nt ground radar cover most all the continental US ? > And as such would'nt the passive system such as the Zaon be more > capable than mode S ? > Still trying to figure out all this active and passive > thing. Pretty neat stuff and truly mind boggling at the advancements > being made. > Well, "it depends"... :-) Ground radar does cover more area at present than mode S (aka TIS coverage). However, in a lot of places, especially near hills, ground radar may only go down to something like 5000 feet, so it does not have complete coverage, especially down low near a lot of smaller airports, where you are more likely to really need the traffic avoidance. As ADS-B makes it way into areas, eventually radar coverage will be phased out, but we have quite a few years before that happens. TIS already has a phasing-out schedule, so IMHO it is already an outdated technology, although you are likely to get at least another 10 years or so out of it in most areas. Right now I'd guess a passive system that works off the reflected radar signal would have more coverage overall than the TIS or ADS-B systems. However, TIS and ADS-B are far more accurate in direction, distance, and altitude. Just put both in! *grin* -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Batteries
Date: Feb 02, 2006
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Here's what I did, batteries are a pair of PC-680s. Not a problem to mod the tray later. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: Batteries I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray??? Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who are considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations??? Bill RV-10 Tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Sound Proofing
Date: Feb 03, 2006
I seem to recall a discussion on the pros and cons of soundproofing the -10. Can anyone enlighten me or point me to where this info was posted? John 40315# ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Sound Proofing
Pros It keeps the interior quiet (the key is to put the sound proofing in the important locations to get the most noise reduction with the least amount of material which is difficult to know before the plane is flying) May add thermal insulation Cons Added weight Potential for corrosion by trapping moisture especially in areas that you cannot inspect (like under the floor panels) Alternate Use ANR headsets Just my 2 cents -- Larry Rosen RV-10 #356 http://lrosen.nerv10.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: 3 ring binder for manual
I store my plans in a plastic 3 ring binder like you are looking for which is on loan from work :-) I found one at office depot here <http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=914005&&An=text> or at a site called www.11x17.com Here is the link to 1" 11x17 binders <http://11x17binders.com/store/index.php?cPath=9_17&osCsid=9db182416d177ff25f3d00b990968221> In the shop I use a copy of my plans. They get tossed around and the pages get out of order. Every so often my daughter gets the task of putting them back in order. Chris Hukill wrote: > Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the > manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a > real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the > internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. > Thanx > Chris Hukill > Figuring out my aux fuel tank system ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
Date: Feb 02, 2006
John, What's its long term effect on aluminum? Will it cause corrosion? John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Subject: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim
Date: Feb 02, 2006
I had very good success by taking some 3/8" tygon tubing (or other flexible type tubing) and fishing it thorough from the back side of the Horizontal stab through the snap bushings. Then feed the trim cable from the front and slide it into the front of the tube. Push the cable and pull the tubing at the same rate and the tubing will glide the cable through the snap bushings out the back side of the HS in perfect alignment. Both sides took less than 5 minutes. Of course it took me an hour to figure this out..... -Mike Kraus RV-4 Flying RV-10 Fuse, wiring, instruments, FWF, whatever sounds like fun each day.... It all has to get done -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:33 AM Subject: RV10-List: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim Here's one for the archives.... Tonight I installed my elevator trim. Connecting the trim wires on the remote ends is the last of my wiring to connect, so I'm happy about that. I spent close to an hour or more trying everything I could to get the trim cables pushed from the forward part of the elevator through the snap bushings and coming out the back. It just was NOT going to happen. There was almost no way to get in there to align the cable with the holes inside the HS either. Especially doing it with the Vertical Stab mounted in the way, it was just not going to happen. Then I had one of those fleeting moments of brilliance.... and after that, it took only a few minutes to get both of them through. Save this tip if you haven't done this yet. First, get some wire like coathanger wire. I used some old aluminum pin material from some hinges used in previous construction. Put a light in the center of the HS, towards the forward part. Use the light to sight into the snap bushings from the rear and feed that wire up to the front. With the wire in, use a needle nose to pull it out the entrance point for the cable. Tape onto that something that's about 3/16" or 1/4" thick and flexible. Maybe pitot tubing...I used scrap pieces of strobe wiring. You'll need about 2.5-3' of it. Pull that stuff through except for a few inches to work with. Use some heat shrink to join the end of the trim cable to the end of the flexible stuff, straight and inline. Now you can pull gently on that flexible line and it should feed through relatively snag free, guiding the trim cables through all of the snap bushings. Do each side about 6" at a time until they're both out. Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had to whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle so they'd line up better. I had previously soldered them up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher to do now. Do it all at once when you do it. Also, for future reference, I don't think there's really any benefit to hooking up that trim system until you're almost done with your final assembly. I see no reason why it hindered me in the building, and without it installed it gave me more room to work in the tailcone pulling and attaching wires and stuff. Hope that saves a few people a few combined hours of time. Wish I'd have started that way. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2006
From: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: re: Big tip on connecting the elevator trim
"Additonal notes: I hadn't ordered that new aluminum trim anchor that's been talked about on the list, but after seeing how the angle of the original one is, I would recommend that you buy those well in advance of when you need them. I would bet they'd be much nicer. I had to whack mine with a hammer to give them a little less angle so they'd line up better. I had previously soldered them up to be tougher, so this angle adjustment was even tougher to do now." So, Tim: Based on your experience with the sledge, do you think it unwise to purchase this beautifully crafted "nut on a plate" that doesn't appear to be easily smacked into a different position? Bruce 40018 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
Date: Feb 02, 2006
UNknown, as I have only just started using. Aluminum however is one of the metals listed for its use. I see no reason why it should promote corrosion as it seals the metal off from the environment just like a thick, strong epoxy primer. John G. >From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Appears to be a great adhesive. >Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2006 18:34:49 -0500 > > >John, > What's its long term effect on aluminum? Will it cause corrosion? > >John Hasbrouck >#40264 > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Verticle Stabilizer
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Hi Group, As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have read about previously. Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to crease VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned ribs Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I have taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of stabilizer the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It almost seems like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly. Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shaper of the rib ?. Thank you Paul Walter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Batteries
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Hi Group, As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have read about previously. Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to crease VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned ribs Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I have taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of stabilizer the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It almost seems like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly. Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shape of the rib ?. Thank you Paul Walter. ----- Original Message ----- From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 9:26 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Batteries Here's what I did, batteries are a pair of PC-680s. Not a problem to mod the tray later. From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 11:48 PM To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Batteries I studied the archives a bit and found that several of you have installed dual batteries. I cannot find any pictures of how the mods were made. Does anybody have pictures of their battery mods??? I have not decided on which batteries I will use yet. Do I need to know this before I build the tray??? Also, this may not be the right list to post this question, but, to those who are considering the Egg H-6 for your -10, what are your battery thoughts/recommendations/locations??? Bill RV-10 Tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 3 ring binder for manual
From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Again, maybe overkill, but my plans (CH640) came in an aluminum binder which would be easy to make. The back is a single sheet of .050 aluminum sheet cut about 1 inch longer and wider than the drawings. The front is made up of 2 pieces of aluminum sheet with a scrap piece of hinge material so the front opens like a book. The front and back are held together with AN 3 bolts through the holes in the plans. Its tough, you don't have to fold the plans so it is easy to page back and forth between drawings, it will never let your pages rip out, and it looks cool. Alodine and priming is optional :) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=9295#9295 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System
Date: Feb 03, 2006
That's tue, but I checked before buying the Ryan and the Chelton and Garmin will both accept RS232 input from the Ryan. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: 3 ring binder for manual
Date: Feb 03, 2006
John I laughed so hard, my sides hurt and now I have to go to work and protect this country. The pain in my side may be the beginning of a national emergency because of the laughter. Bob K Forward top cowling _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 9:12 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual I just rip each page out (I've given up trying to keep the holes from ripping), immediately spill some hot tea on it to give it its proper staining, fold it up and stuff it in my briefcase so I can unfold it in the airport and look at it seriously hoping to impress someone with my technical acumen. Mainly I take the page out so I can have that one page near, beside, on top of the work at hand. Then, once finished with it, I take it home with me so it's near the computer and I can enter my notes and time, then finally onto a "completed" file of other, heroically stained and mangled pages. War is war. I stand on the front line between aluminum and civilization. You need me on that line; you want me on that line. I don't have the time, nor the inclination to pamper my pages. Histrionically yours, John Jessen ~328 (skinning the Tailcone) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Jensen Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 8:01 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual To reinforce the pages and prevent rip-out, run a strip of Scotch tape along the edge of the page, covering the holes. Punch the holes again and you have a super strong edge with holes that won't rip out. Cost: 0.01 cents per page. Chuck Jensen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Lauritsen - Work Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 10:41 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual It's a bit overkill, but I took two strips of 1/8"x3/4" aluminum from the hardware store and drilled them to correspond to the holes. I countersunk and attached #8 nutplates to one for the back and countersunk and inserted #8 screws through the front to sandwich all of the pages together. I went this route mainly because I had so many ripped pages that I needed something to pinch and hold them together. Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 12:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: 3 ring binder for manual Has anyone found a mail order source for a 3 ring binder for the manual? I keep tearing the holes on mine, and would like to have a real binder for my manual, but I can't find any locally, or on the internet. If anyone knows a source, please let me know. Thanx Chris Hukill Figuring out my aux fuel tank system ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Verticle Stabilizer
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Hello Paul, If I am understanding your concerns correctly, I think what you are seeing is that the skin on the inside surface while clecoed to the ribs finds the nose of the rib(The metal forward of the most forward rib hole) is a high spot and it causes the skin to dent out. In other words the contour is not absolutely true and smooth. Perhaps the clecoes are not strong enough to pull the skin tight to the rear of the most forward hole, against the rib flanges, but even it they were, the skin will dent in, making the smooth contour depart from ideal even more. If this is what you are taking about, here are some options. You can make cleco washers that will make the cleco springs pull harder. If you do this and the inside of the skin is now pulled down against the rib flange than that is good but then again use light on the outside skin to see the contour. Is there a depression? If so here is my solution. First, know that in my opinion as long as the skin shape is the same on the right and the left you are alright. VS is not a lifting airfoil. Assuming the skin will drape over the ribs equally from right to left side as it is clecoed, then all we need to do is change the shape of the ribs to conform to the shape of the draped skin. This is a technique discussed with someone who worked for Lockheed. It is called "wet shimming". You can sand the inside skin and the rib flange with the 150 sand paper, only in these mating areas, clean with acetone or MEK and bond the ribs in place with the clecoes(Not loaded with the custom washers) and let cure for a week. Remove the clecoes and re drill the holes and make sure that there are not lumps of epoxy on the inside of the rib flanges. Better to do this before cure. Rivet the skin down, but first make sure the called out rivets are long enough as you have now made the flanges thicher. I rub vasoline on the cleco tongues so they do not get stuck. I also soak the clecoes in acetone once I remove them. Or better, buy new clecoes when you do your fuel tanks. The epoxy I was writing about is what I used on the nose ribs of my HS. The problem was much worse on the HS. This stuff drove me, the dentist crazy. I am also more familiar with composite construction and not metal. Being a Soaring pilot, I find it very difficult to emotiojnally deal with these contour fluctuations. Just my thoughts, for what it is worth. John G #409 >From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV10-List: Verticle Stabilizer >Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 18:46:44 +1100 > >Hi Group, > >As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have >read about previously. >Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to >crease VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned >ribs > >Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I >have taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of >stabilizer the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It >almost seems like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly. > >Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shaper of the rib ?. > >Thank you > > >Paul Walter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Subject: Re: RE: Super Duper Weight & Balance
Would love to use the W&B but it says password protected. Would he fix that for us? Appreciate sharing. Doug 40372 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Verticle Stabilizer
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Paul, So the new plans have that as part of the VS? Great. As to how much, 1/8 inch is about right. I've attached a picture or two of what I did. You might also put a flute in the web at the tip, thereby sucking in the sides a bit to better match the shape of the skins. It's supposed to be tight, but also it's supposed to not be too tight that you end up deforming the leading edge. Given that you've taken off enough so the ribs do not sit flush, and does this mean you have a gap, then you might want some new ribs. You don't want an appreciable gap between the nose of the rib and the leading edge. If it's noticeable, when you try to rivet, you'll push in the skin at that point. Some other builders might suggest filling that gap with an appropriate thickness of scrape, and that might work, but ribs are cheap. I'd start again. John Jessen ~328 (Tailcone) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 11:47 PM Subject: RV10-List: Verticle Stabilizer Hi Group, As I am part way through the VS I have run into the same problem as I have read about previously. Plans say to remove 1/8 inch from VS 1013, VS 1005 and VS 1006 so as not to crease VS 1001 Vertical stabilizer skin with the point of these mentioned ribs Now, removing 1/8 has done nothing to solve the problem and at this point I have taken 1/4 inch off and when assembled and you look down through top of stabilizer the ribs do not sit flush in front of skin as I would like. It almost seems like these ribs have not be manufactured correctly. Can the fronts be re fabricated to change the actual shaper of the rib ?. Thank you Paul Walter. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Subject: 3 ring binder
Date: Feb 03, 2006
I went to the local blueprint company and had my plans spiral-bound into 3 separate books. The books are covered with a clear plastic sheet on the top and a heavy paper cover on the back. This full width spiral binding looks like they will really hold up without tearing, much more than a 3 ring binder. The whole process was done while I waited for 10 minutes, and cost me $8. You can have it done at Kinkos or Office Max/ Depot, but it will cost a lot more than at a blueprint place. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Subject: Re: HS ribs
In a message dated 2/3/2006 10:46:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com writes: The problem was much worse on the HS. This stuff drove me, the dentist crazy. I found the HS nose ribs needed a little adjustment to follow the contour of the pre-bent skins. The 3 prong vice grip pliers do fine or pressing the corner of the rib against the wood work bench to add some curve to the very front edge of the flange and retrying the part helped it sit passively in contact with the skin. Obviously the nose ribs do very little, as they are spaced so far apart. The biggest concern is to avoid the very front part of the nose rib flange from damaging the skin contour. (As a dentist, this was a simple adjustment to make...) sorry i couldnt resist. Steve Stephen G. Blank,DDS RV-10 #40499 ALmost ready to Rivet the HS Cessna 170b Flyer Port St Lucie, FL 772-475-5556 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FW: W&B Calculations
Date: Feb 03, 2006
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Alright boys, here's the instructions: The cells that are locked are locked for your own protection. You don't need to edit them, they are for displaying data. The fields for you to edit are those that have blue text. Such things include: For each aircraft definition along the right side: N-number and aircraft name Empty weight, moment, arm Usable fuel Va & weight Vgl & weight Moment arms for seat, fuel, and baggage locations Envelope definition (the columns of arms and weights down the middle for each aircraft. Defines the points of the envelope to be drawn.) For a particular flight, click on the radio button at the top to select aircraft, then enter in the green table on the left your data for that flight: Pilot & copilot weight PAX weight Baggage weight Fuel & Taxi allowance Your estimated Fuel to be used for the flight (computes landing weight) After you've updated the aircraft info and/or the information for the envelope, you may need to click on another aircraft, then back to the first aircraft, to get the macros to update the graph. Also, make sure your security settings on Excel aren't preventing macros from running. I hope that works better! Sorry to have thown it out without much guidance before, but I had just gotten it, too. TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: Todd Handel Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:50 PM Cc: Kevin Carey; Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: W&B Calculations Sorry fellas... Rev 03 had some "issues"... please use this one. From: Todd Handel Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 4:29 PM Cc: Kevin Carey; Tim Dawson-Townsend Subject: W&B Calculations Steve, attached is the W&B spreadsheet that I made.... I can explain how to use the sheet but basically the user would fill in blue text values. The current sheet supports up to 6 aircraft.... after entering the data select the radio button at the top to display and enter W&B information for that aircraft. I hope you find it helpful. _________________________ Todd Handel - Lincoln x7417 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ajhauter(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Active certainly gives you more control, but passive coverage looks pretty good. One way to make both systems much more effective is to imbed the aircraft target gps coordinates in the transponder signal, for those aircraft that have gps. Very simple approach. Would provide much more accurate aircraft tracking not only for aircraft avoidance but also for FAA tracking, even more accurate than sophisticated military tracking radars can provide. anyone want to start a business... aj sematters.info >Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will bounce off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground radar, and there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see another aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder. Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that generates its own "pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder, regardless of where you are. TDT 40025 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System
Date: Feb 03, 2006
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
You're too late - you've just defined part of what ADS-B is . . . http://www.flyadsb.com/ TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ajhauter(at)yahoo.com Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System Active certainly gives you more control, but passive coverage looks pretty good. One way to make both systems much more effective is to imbed the aircraft target gps coordinates in the transponder signal, for those aircraft that have gps. Very simple approach. Would provide much more accurate aircraft tracking not only for aircraft avoidance but also for FAA tracking, even more accurate than sophisticated military tracking radars can provide. anyone want to start a business... aj sematters.info >Note that the Zaon is a passive system, relying on ground radar or on other TCAS-equipped aircraft to generate the "pings" that will bounce off target aircraft. So if you're too far from a ground radar, and there's not an airliner with TCAS nearby, you might not see another aircraft because no one is interrogating his transponder. Ryan TAS, on the other hand, is an active system that generates its own "pings" so it will detect anyone with a transponder, regardless of where you are. TDT 40025 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: HS ribs
Date: Feb 03, 2006
I was not speaking of a lateral interference. What I am speaking of is more like the concept of creating voids and trapping air bubbles in the corners of your composite filling because the composite you are using is so stiff that it cannot adapt to the shape of the preparation. In macro composite construction, that is why we use a mix of light cotton flox and microballons in the corners before we put the glass down. Micro composites, Flowables. Believe it or not I believe most all the principles of physics apply regardless of the size and medium one works with. Just want to confirm we are on the same page. The corners were radiused in addition to the bonding. See Crazy right!. JOhn >From: LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: HS ribs >Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2006 11:40:21 EST > >In a message dated 2/3/2006 10:46:43 AM Eastern Standard Time, >indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com writes: >The problem was much worse on the HS. This stuff drove me, the dentist >crazy. > I found the HS nose ribs needed a little adjustment to follow the >contour >of the pre-bent skins. The 3 prong vice grip pliers do fine or pressing the >corner of the rib against the wood work bench to add some curve to the very >front edge of the flange and retrying the part helped it sit passively in >contact >with the skin. Obviously the nose ribs do very little, as they are spaced >so far apart. The biggest concern is to avoid the very front part of the >nose >rib flange from damaging the skin contour. > (As a dentist, this was a simple adjustment to make...) sorry i couldnt >resist. > >Steve > >Stephen G. Blank,DDS >RV-10 #40499 ALmost ready to Rivet the HS >Cessna 170b Flyer > >Port St Lucie, FL >772-475-5556 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling
Date: Feb 04, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Hi all, My tribulations with Section 29 and the side skins continue. Following is a query to Vans: "I did not notice anything in the plans about dimpling F-1015B intercostals or F-1015A Outboard Footwell ribs in Section 26. Section 29 calls for AN426 rivets and seems to assume that the understructure has been countersunk or dimpled. The top half of the F1015B behind the F-1015F can be readily dimpled, as can most holes in the F-1015A (using a pop rivet dimpler). I cannot however dimple the overlap between the 1015B and 1015A (insufficient dimpling pressure from the pop rivet dies to dimple both skins together). Is countersinking the F1070 side skins for 426 rivets (rather than dimpling the skins and understructure) acceptable along the vertical row of holes joining the skin, 1015A and 1015B?" Vans Response: "We have recently discovered this, and will be revising the instructions slightly. In your case, rather than c'sinking the skins, engineering suggests that you drill the holes that won't/can't dimple to #30 and installing 470AD4 rivets. These are inside the profile of the wing and won't be seen when the wing and root fairing are installed." If I remember right, Section 26 does not address preparation of the F1015A at all. Vans acknowledges a deficiency in the plans. For those that have preceded, how did you treat this issue? Is there some other way of dimpling these overlapping parts? thx, Ron #187 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2006
From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz>
Subject: Re: Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling
I dimpled the top half of the 1015A and then countersunk the part that overlaps with the 1015B. I dimpled the F1070 side skins. PJ RV-10 #40032 McGANN wrote: > Hi all, > > My tribulations with Section 29 and the side skins continue. > > Following is a query to Vans: > > "I did not notice anything in the plans about dimpling F-1015B intercostals or F-1015A Outboard Footwell ribs in Section 26. Section 29 calls for AN426 rivets and seems to assume that the understructure has been countersunk or dimpled. The top half of the F1015B behind the F-1015F can be readily dimpled, as can most holes in the F-1015A (using a pop rivet dimpler). I cannot however dimple the overlap between the 1015B and 1015A (insufficient dimpling pressure from the pop rivet dies to dimple both skins together). > > Is countersinking the F1070 side skins for 426 rivets (rather than dimpling the skins and understructure) acceptable along the vertical row of holes joining the skin, 1015A and 1015B?" > > Vans Response: > > "We have recently discovered this, and will be revising the instructions slightly. > > In your case, rather than c'sinking the skins, engineering suggests that you drill the holes that won't/can't dimple to #30 and installing 470AD4 rivets. These are inside the profile of the wing and won't be seen when the wing and root fairing are installed." > > If I remember right, Section 26 does not address preparation of the F1015A at all. > > Vans acknowledges a deficiency in the plans. For those that have preceded, how did you treat this issue? Is there some other way of dimpling these overlapping parts? > > thx, > > Ron #187 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com>
Subject: Andair Fuel Valves
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Gentlemen - I have some Andair products available. FS20F5FMF-AUX Fuel Selector Valves FS20X7T Fuel Selector Valves EX-7 6-inch extension kits for the FS20X7 Please contact me off-list for details. neal(at)appaero.com or phones below. Neal E. George 244 Andrews Street Maxwell AFB, AL 36113 Home - 334-262-8993 Cell - 334-546-2033 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: website problem???
Date: Feb 03, 2006
Bill, Short answer: I believe that theoretically flush kits should be more accurate If you dig through an aerodynamics manual, you'll find that as the airplane travels through the air, there is (obviously) a relative wind that travels in the opposite direction, and is even more aligned with the fuselage in trimmed (coordinated) flight. As this relative wind flows around the airframe, there is a boundary layer that is a certain thickness -- it may be in millimeters or larger or smaller - that lies just off the airframe itself. If something sticks out far enough from the airframe, it protrudes through this boundary layer and into the slipstream, giving you parasitic drag. At a minimum you'll be affecting the laminar flow of the air around the protrusion. However, if something protrudes slightly from the airframe and not into the slipstream, it enjoys a fairly calm environment, which is why static ports are along the sides of the airframe in most instances. The "opposite" of the static port is, as you know, the ram air port, or pitot tube. Vans apparently has done enough research to feel comfortable that their dome-type static ports don't break the boundary layer into the slipstream. If it did I'm sure that some kind of a vacuum effect would occur through the static system because then there would be a higher pressure in the static lines than the flow of air over the static port. Rest of short answer: I just riveted on my safeair static ports tonight. I didn't have any issues with their website 2 weeks ago. I would like to see who out there has a resource for inline drains for the pitot/static system. Rob #392 Riveting tailcone _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 10:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: website problem??? I'm trying to go to Safeair1's website and I keep getting an error message when I get there. Anybody else experiencing this??? I'm also curious if anybody flying with the Safeair1 static ports could give some feedback on their performance. Are they accurate??? I know that it looks like a pretty nice kit and user friendly with the quick disconnects but I've been reading in the archives how the flush static kits don't seem to be as accurate as the "dome-type" that Vans offers. Any hints/suggestions??? Bill Britton RV-10 Tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2006
From: Chris W <3edcft6(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Appears to be a great adhesive.
John Gonzalez wrote: > The problem may become getting the fairing off if you ever needed to. > You will certainly damage the fuselage skin. I think it would hold it > that well. > Heat will probably take it off. Most glues break down with enough heat. You may even have to get it hot enough to ruin the paint, but if you have to take it off you probably will need to repaint it anyway. -- Chris W KE5GIX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: ajhauter(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System
Date: Feb 04, 2006
Great, simple effective technology, don't need to make it harder than it is. I don't see why the site seems to keep emphasizing not intended as a collision avoidance system, except for the obvious fact that not all aircraft will have the extended transponder mode available initially. All the key ingredients are there and a lot more accurate geo-coordinate positioning potential than what you can get out of Radar directly. I suspect as they gain confidence with the system that will change. aj Time: Subject: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" You're too late - you've just defined part of what ADS-B is . . . http://www.flyadsb.com/ TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ajhauter(at)yahoo.com Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System Active certainly gives you more control, but passive coverage looks pretty good. One way to make both systems much more effective is to imbed the aircraft target gps coordinates in the transponder signal, for those aircraft that have gps. Very simple approach. Would provide much more accurate aircraft tracking not only for aircraft avoidance but also for FAA tracking, even more accurate than sophisticated military tracking radars can provide. anyone want to start a business... aj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Kean" <stevekean(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System
Date: Feb 04, 2006
ADS-B If ADS-B is going to replace the transponder interrogation and reply processing in today's working (albeit line of sight) system, what's to keep the ADS-B data from being preprogrammed to send out false information? Transponders provide altitude and proximity data based on tower interrogation and signal response and strength?. ADS-B apparently supplies digital data on 3D location, etc. Well anything digital can be recorded and played back. i.e. spoofed unless digital signature and private key infrastructure are employed to guarantee the sender is who they say they are, and the packet has not been tampered with and is coded with the current session key. This is being done today on the internet for securing transactions requiring session keys, pki certificates, etc. associated with secure transmission over the internet. What does the current ADS-B do to guard against spoofing the ADS-B system? After 911 we don't want to give away a system which is old for one that can be spoofed... Remember how Glacier Gale got left on the glacier in the first place... ----- Original Message ----- From: ajhauter(at)yahoo.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 6:36 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System Great, simple effective technology, don't need to make it harder than it is. I don't see why the site seems to keep emphasizing not intended as a collision avoidance system, except for the obvious fact that not all aircraft will have the extended transponder mode available initially. All the key ingredients are there and a lot more accurate geo-coordinate positioning potential than what you can get out of Radar directly. I suspect as they gain confidence with the system that will change. aj Subject: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> You're too late - you've just defined part of what ADS-B is . . http://www.flyadsb.com/ TDT 40025 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ajhauter(at)yahoo.com Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:25 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Zaon Traffic SystemZaon Traffic System Active certainly gives you more control, but passive coverage looks pretty good. One way to make both systems much more effective is to imbed the aircraft target gps coordinates in the transponder signal, for those aircraft that have gps. Very simple approach. Would provide much more accurate aircraft tracking not only for aircraft avoidance but also for FAA tracking, even more accurate than sophisticated military tracking radars can provide. anyone want to start a business... aj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
Date: Feb 04, 2006
Zack, Is Dave still making these replacement parts? and how can I order a set for my project? I saw you referenced a web site in one message. Does he have one? Jeff Closing up VS and Rudder ----- Original Message ----- From: Joseph Czachorowski To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket Guys, Dave made up some anchor brackets out of 6061 aluminum billet. He copied the exact angle of Vans W-415 weldment (you know the part with the "tack welded" nut). Well, I installed the new aluminum bracket onto the elevator yesterday and it wouldn't fit real nice. Let me explain....The new bracket was drilled exactly where Vans says to put his w-415. After installing the trim tab cable to the trim tab and routing the cable thru the forward elevator spar, the trim tab access cover would not nest in its recess in the elevator without undue force. The angle of the bracket (25 degrees) made the cable bind when going thru the forward spar of the elevator. I doubled checked this with Vans W-415 part. Same thing. Did anyone else have this problem? Anyway, Dave came out, measured the proper nut angle (15 degrees), and made a new bracket. After installing the new bracket I am happy to say there is no more binding, thru the full range of motion of the cable, while it is attached to the trim tab. This thing fits perfect. Btw, I called Vans and talked to Gus about this. Gus's answer was to re-weld the nut at the proper angle. I told him I would have someone make up a aluminum bracket from billet. He said that would be best. Anyway, I caught this in time and Dave will send out all the brackets to those who already ordered from Dave, with this new 15 degree nut angle. He just has to make up new ones. Zack ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Trim Cable Anchor Bracket Installation
Date: Feb 04, 2006
Listers, I received my two trim cable anchor brackets from Dave the other day via UPS. Dave provided a great service and I would recommend that you all get your orders in. This is a great fix to a poorly designed bracket. I just finished replicating the two cover plates that they attach to. This had to be done because the bolt pattern is different from the original brackets. It took me about 2 hours to draw and cut them out of the aluminum pieces that came with the emp kit. I have decided that I want to be able to remove them from the access cover so I have dimpled the access cover and countersunk the bottom of the bracket. I am going to install them using stainless AN507C-632R6 screws with AN365-632 lock nuts. People have commented about the inability to rotate the older nut when mounted to the access plate. I felt that it would be much easier to adjust the cable relative to the anchor bracket by spinning the anchor bracket around the cable. I now have only to remove the cover screws and detach the anchor bracket from the cover to adjust/service the cable. I hope this helps. Dave Hertner 40164 - Emp finished ordering QB balance of kit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 04, 2006
Jeff and fellow RV10 builders. Yes, Dave is still making these parts. If fact, he did a few more (see photos below). Dave is trying to put together an "RV10 Tail Kit". This kit will have many of the harder to make parts such as brackets, spacers and such. As I work on my tail kit, I ask Dave to make a part. He programs it on Solid Works and goes to town on the CNC. Dave is hoping to put the following items in this RV10 Tail Kit Supplement.... Horizontal Stab Attach Brackets (hard to make for the builder so Dave did it on the CNC with all holes predrilled! This is one bracket that must be done right because it holds the front spar of the HS Stab to the fuselage.) Trim Cable Attach Bracket. The supplied Vans part is a cheap looking part and binds the trim cable on my plane. Dave has a CNC billet one that is 3 times stronger with the proper angle. Pre cut foam blocks. Dave did mine on the CNC and they fit perfect! CNC milled static air ports. See photo. CNC cut brackets for the trim motor bracket and cables. More to come. Call Dave at 302-437-6087. He can answer all questions on parts and prices. Zack #40512 ( tail cone riveting tomorrow! Wings ship next Monday!) [quote="jdalton77(at)comcast.net"]Zack, ? Is Dave still making these replacement parts? and how can I order a set for my project?? ? I saw you referenced a web site in one message.? Does he have one? ? Jeff Closing up VS and Rudder > --- -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10116#10116 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03648_195.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03738_800.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04142_162.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04140_159.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04136_194.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04134_302.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04132_840.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04130_117.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04108_272.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2006
Subject: Fuel sender and Pitot mount question
Looking for suggestions on inspecting the fuel senders to verify they are moving freely all the way up and down in the tank. I have quickbuild wings and did not have the luxury of installing them before finishing the fuel tank. I believe they are hitting the stiffener and not going up between the fuel vent line and stiffener............thus not going UP completely. This would show a tank less than FULL. Any ideas? I also have a Dynon pitot mount bracket/pitot. It is angled to go under the lip of the wing spar with 3 rivots. I am also running angle aluminum 90 degrees to the front lip along the bottom skin spar............is it recommended to use a doubler plate like the GRETZ model also? Appears to be very sturdy without a doubler plate. If any one has pics of their Dynon bracket mounted I would enjoy seeing them. Thanks, DEAN Looking for suggestions on inspecting the fuel senders to verify they are moving freely all the way up and down in the tank. I have quickbuild wings and did not have the luxury of installing them before finishing the fuel tank. I believe they are hitting the stiffener and not going up between the fuel vent line and stiffener............thus not going UP completely. This would show a tank less than FULL. Any ideas? I also have a Dynon pitot mount bracket/pitot. It is angled to go under the lip of the wing spar with 3 rivots.I am also running angle aluminum 90 degrees to the front lip along the bottom skin spar............is it recommended to use a doubler plate like the GRETZ model also? Appears to be very sturdy without a doubler plate. If any one has pics of their Dynon bracket mounted I would enjoy seeing them. Thanks, DEAN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
Date: Feb 05, 2006
What would be the all up cost for all of these items mentioned ? Paul Walter ----- Original Message ----- From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 2:51 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket > > Jeff and fellow RV10 builders. Yes, Dave is still making these parts. If > fact, he did a few more (see photos below). Dave is trying to put > together an "RV10 Tail Kit". This kit will have many of the harder to > make parts such as brackets, spacers and such. As I work on my tail kit, > I ask Dave to make a part. He programs it on Solid Works and goes to town > on the CNC. > > Dave is hoping to put the following items in this RV10 Tail Kit > Supplement.... > > Horizontal Stab Attach Brackets (hard to make for the builder so Dave > did it on the CNC with all holes predrilled! This is one bracket that > must be done right because it holds the front spar of the HS Stab to > the fuselage.) > > Trim Cable Attach Bracket. The supplied Vans part is a cheap looking > part and binds the trim cable on my plane. Dave has a CNC billet > one that is 3 times stronger with the proper angle. > > Pre cut foam blocks. Dave did mine on the CNC and they fit perfect! > > CNC milled static air ports. See photo. > > CNC cut brackets for the trim motor bracket and cables. > > More to come. Call Dave at 302-437-6087. He can answer all questions > on parts and prices. > > Zack > #40512 ( tail cone riveting tomorrow! Wings ship next Monday!) > > > [quote="jdalton77(at)comcast.net"]Zack, > ? > Is Dave still making these replacement parts? and how can I order a set > for my project?? > ? > I saw you referenced a web site in one message.? Does he have one? > ? > Jeff > Closing up VS and Rudder > >> --- > > > -------- > RV8 #80125 > RV10 # 40512 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10116#10116 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03648_195.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03738_800.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04142_162.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04140_159.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04136_194.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04134_302.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04132_840.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04130_117.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04108_272.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2006
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender and Pitot mount question
I ran a piece of string through a couple of holes (in the access plate, as I recall) allowing me to pull the sender up and down (using the string). I had the same problem with limited movement. I suggested to Vans that the fuel sender be included with the QB wing, and that the sender arm be bent when the tank is being built. Otherwise, as you noted, it's difficult (I gave up) to get it adjusted so it moves freely without binding on stiffeners somewhere. Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote: > Looking for suggestions on inspecting the fuel senders to verify they > are moving freely all the way up and down in the tank. I have > quickbuild wings and did not have the luxury of installing them before > finishing the fuel tank. I believe they are hitting the stiffener and > not going up between the fuel vent line and stiffener............thus > not going UP completely. This would show a tank less than FULL. Any > ideas? > > I also have a Dynon pitot mount bracket/pitot. It is angled to go under > the lip of the wing spar with 3 rivots. I am also running angle aluminum > 90 degrees to the front lip along the bottom skin spar............is it > recommended to use a doubler plate like the GRETZ model also? Appears > to be very sturdy without a doubler plate. If any one has pics of their > Dynon bracket mounted I would enjoy seeing them. > > Thanks, > > DEAN > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender and Pitot mount question
This is how I installed the fuel sender into my quickbuild wings I bend the rod per the plans. I attached safety wire to the rod The safety wire was fished through the bottom drain opening (VA-112) I connected a multimeter to the fuel sender and measured the resistance through the range of the fuel sender using the safety wire to move the float up and down. I would shine a flash light through the finger strainer (VA-141) on the inboard side of the wing and try to look through the drain opening with the safety wire to see where the float was hitting. Then remove the fuel sender, tweak / rebend the rod, re-install and check the range of motion with the multimeter. Do this over and over again until you get the full range from the float :-( Real pain in the a$$. In the end I got resistance reading Right tank: empty 247 ohms, full 29 ohms Left tank: empty 246 ohms, full 33 ohms. There is a picture of the safety wire through the drain opening on my website. Now I need to add the commentary to have it make sense. The photo is here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/FuelLevel/index.html> Larry Rosen http://lrosen.nerv10.com Tim Lewis wrote: > > I ran a piece of string through a couple of holes (in the access > plate, as I recall) allowing me to pull the sender up and down (using > the string). I had the same problem with limited movement. > > I suggested to Vans that the fuel sender be included with the QB wing, > and that the sender arm be bent when the tank is being built. > Otherwise, as you noted, it's difficult (I gave up) to get it adjusted > so it moves freely without binding on stiffeners somewhere. > > Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up
I built my own tanks but still had a lot of difficulty getting the sender on one side to go thru its full range of motion without hitting/binding on a stiffener at either the top or bottom. It only happened on one side. I finally determined that the angle that the sender unit was mounted to the attach plate was different that the other unit. No amount of bending would help because anything that I did to make it better on one end of the travel only made it worse on the other. They are assembled using a single large rivet. And appparently the quality control is weak. I was able to 'adjust' the angle with some encouragement from the vise and a pair of channel locks, and the problem disappeared as the 'swing plane' was now correct. Deems Davis # 406 Wings- finishing http://deemsrv10.com/ Larry Rosen wrote: > > This is how I installed the fuel sender into my quickbuild wings > I bend the rod per the plans. > I attached safety wire to the rod > The safety wire was fished through the bottom drain opening (VA-112) > I connected a multimeter to the fuel sender and measured the > resistance through the range of the fuel sender using the safety wire > to move the float up and down. > I would shine a flash light through the finger strainer (VA-141) on > the inboard side of the wing and try to look through the drain opening > with the safety wire to see where the float was hitting. > Then remove the fuel sender, tweak / rebend the rod, re-install and > check the range of motion with the multimeter. > Do this over and over again until you get the full range from the > float :-( > Real pain in the a$$. > In the end I got resistance reading > Right tank: empty 247 ohms, full 29 ohms > Left tank: empty 246 ohms, full 33 ohms. > > There is a picture of the safety wire through the drain opening on my > website. Now I need to add the commentary to have it make sense. The > photo is here > <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/FuelLevel/index.html> > > Larry Rosen > http://lrosen.nerv10.com > > Tim Lewis wrote: > >> >> I ran a piece of string through a couple of holes (in the access >> plate, as I recall) allowing me to pull the sender up and down (using >> the string). I had the same problem with limited movement. >> >> I suggested to Vans that the fuel sender be included with the QB >> wing, and that the sender arm be bent when the tank is being built. >> Otherwise, as you noted, it's difficult (I gave up) to get it >> adjusted so it moves freely without binding on stiffeners somewhere. >> >> Tim > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender
Does the gasket supplied with the fuel sender get installed along with prosealing it in place? I believe that the gasket is not installed. -- Larry Rosen RV-10 #356 http://lrosen.nerv10.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Instrument Panel
Date: Feb 05, 2006
I am about ready to do the instrument panel and have not yet finalized what instruments that I want. I am interested in how much cutting most builders did to allow enough room for their instruments. I remember some pictures of Vic Syricuse's but can't find them. Any imput from those who have gone before? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2006
From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
This what I did, It's low profile, and plenty strong. I believe it's 90/1000 ths, AL. Gary Specketer wrote: > I am about ready to do the instrument panel and have not yet finalized > what instruments that I want. I am interested in how much cutting > most builders did to allow enough room for their instruments. I > remember some pictures of Vic Syricuse's but can't find them. Any > imput from those who have gone before? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Date: Feb 05, 2006
You really need to know which avionics and where they are going. The depth of the sub panel is insufficient for most avionics. see the picture...After you select the radios you will need to cut some holes in the subpanel or allow some radios to protrude out from the instrument panel. Secondly unless you have masochistic tendencies you should design your panel and let a vendor cut it for the instruments with a machine. Having cut all the holes in the panel for my Glastar I know that it is not a small task. see the precut panel. and the panel powder coated and partially assembled. ----- Original Message ----- From: Sam Marlow To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 12:08 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel This what I did, It's low profile, and plenty strong. I believe it's 90/1000 ths, AL. Gary Specketer wrote: I am about ready to do the instrument panel and have not yet finalized what instruments that I want. I am interested in how much cutting most builders did to allow enough room for their instruments. I remember some pictures of Vic Syricuse's but can't find them. Any imput from those who have gone before? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Date: Feb 05, 2006
Hi, I Seem to recall that it says in the instructions that the ribs behind the panel should not be cut? This is also the same for the crossbar. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Date: Feb 05, 2006
I check that with several avionics shops that service RVs and find that most are "trimmed" as necessary to make the radios fit. However that does not mean that the ribs are not reinforced to be stronger than original. You will note in the pictures I sent that good use was made of the odds and ends of the Z channels from other parts of the aircraft. The end result is a modified rib that is at least as strong as the original. The crossbar was not cut and the instrument panel was machine cut from an .090 2024t3 rather than the supplied .062 sheet. ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 4:06 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel Hi, I Seem to recall that it says in the instructions that the ribs behind the panel should not be cut? This is also the same for the crossbar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2006
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank return line
Where and how have fuel return lines been added to the tanks. I'm not sure if I will need them but it will be easy to add it during construction. Steve 40212 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank return line
Date: Feb 05, 2006
I added mine using the same method as the vent line. The ribs already have a snap bushing hole at the top in the rear so thats where I put the return line, running it all the way up to terminate on the other side of the filler cap from the vent line. -Chris Lucas #40072 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darton Steve" <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 9:53 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel tank return line > > Where and how have fuel return lines been added to the > tanks. I'm not sure if I will need them but it will be > easy to add it during construction. > > Steve 40212 > > __________________________________________________ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2006
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust problem - advice sought
Any good welder familiar with stainless steel can weld up the old holes. A really good welder can do it in a way it will be barely detectable. IIRC You have two of the big names in exhaust repair within one state...Dawley in WI and Aerospace Welding or something like that in MN. Tim Olson wrote: > > I was almost ready to fire the engine up today. I went to > install my plugs and found that my EGT probe locations I > chose on the right half of the engine interfered with my > sparkplugs. I had left the engine pickled, so I never > removed the temporary plugs they had in the cylinders, lest > I lose my oil that was in the cylinders. > > So, now I need to move the probes. Repositioning them > is easy, but has anyone ever had to have old EGT > probe holes patched up before? Should they > just weld them up, or will that tend to enlarge them > instead of filling them? Monday a.m. I'm going to > get on the phone with an aerospace welding shop, but I just > thought I'd take a chance here and see if my inbox brings > me any good news in the a.m. > > I would have finished my W&B today and been only about > 2 hours away from being ready for inspection if I hadn't > hit this bump. > > Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up
Date: Feb 05, 2006
Guys: Remember the fuel tank sender units supplied by Van are two different part numbers and are "left and right" >From page 18-7 second line' "Use part number IE-385B for the left fuel tank; use IE F-385C for the right tank." I'm not sure if this is related to the issue being discussed but a possibility at least. Dick Sipp N110DV #40065 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Tail cone bulkhead cracks
Date: Feb 05, 2006
I got started on my tail cone this weekend and I found two of my bulkheads had cracks in the center bend over flange. This flange metal is not used for anything except to provide some stiffness to the structure. The F 1010 bulkhead had three cracks in one corner and one that nearly went to the web of the bulkhead. I will call Van's tomorrow to find out what they say, but my fealing is that if you can see the split, there my be more that is there which you can't see. All cracks are atleast 3mm long and some as wide as 1mm at the start. Any concensus on this. There is so much concern about inadvertently scratching aluminum for fear of creating weak point, this seems not acceptable. If I have to send them back it will probably cost $25-30 bucks and for what. John G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Feb 06, 2006
Subject: Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up
I want to thank Larry Rosen for his idea on using the OHM meter to measure the travel of the fuel senders on the Quickbuild installation. On both tanks originally I was hitting the vent tube with the sender float. On the left tank there was not enough room between the vent line and stiffener for the float anyway. Considered cutting the float back or sticking a bar in the tank and pry the vent tube over to make room. I did neither.............ended up twisting the wire holding the float 90 degrees. By doing this the float easily fit between the stiffener and vent line AND still had full travel. We measured the OHMS with the sender on the workbench to determine FULL travel. When we got done positioning them in the tanks as detailed aboved..........we got the same readings on the OHMS meter.................32 OHMS and 250 OHMS. Thanks again LARRY R. DEAN I want to thank Larry Rosen for his idea on using the OHM meter to measure the travel of the fuel senders on the Quickbuild installation. On both tanks originally I was hitting the vent tube with the sender float. On the left tank there was not enough room between the vent line and stiffener for the float anyway. Considered cutting the float back or sticking a bar in the tank and pry the vent tube over to make room. I did neither.............ended up twisting the wire holding the float 90 degrees. By doing this the float easily fit between the stiffener and vent line AND still had full travel. We measured the OHMS with the sender on the workbench to determine FULL travel. When we got done positioning them in the tanks as detailed aboved..........we got the same readings on the OHMS meter.................32 OHMS and 250 OHMS. Thanks again LARRY R. DEAN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel sender mount heads-up
Date: Feb 06, 2006
Van's original shipment to me had both senders for the left wing. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 9:14 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel sender mount heads-up > > Guys: > > Remember the fuel tank sender units supplied by Van are two different part > numbers and are "left and right" > >>From page 18-7 second line' "Use part number IE-385B for the left fuel >>tank; > use IE F-385C for the right tank." > > I'm not sure if this is related to the issue being discussed but a > possibility at least. > > Dick Sipp > N110DV #40065 > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument Panel
Date: Feb 06, 2006
The trimmed rib in the middle of the photograph will not transfer the load along the same path as the original design. It may be striong as you put it, but that doesn't mean that it does what it is supposed to do. Situations like these can, and sometimes do, compromise an aircraft. The middle forward top rib in particular is at a very inconvenient position, it's very tempting to cut it or modify otherwise, however, this also the rib that holds the reinforcing bar for the roof, which in turn acts as a simple roll bar. The load dissipation will not be the same if the rib is cut, hence the warning in the manual. A seperate argument for not cutting this part of the aircraft is one for the purposes of insurance.If I were to survey this aircraft post impact and found the forward top fuselage had been compromised I would bring negative advise for settlement, in particular because theer's a warning in the manual. Just some thoughts on what seems a simple mod, with potentially hazardous results when something goes pearshaped. Marcel ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 11:39 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel I check that with several avionics shops that service RVs and find that most are "trimmed" as necessary to make the radios fit. However that does not mean that the ribs are not reinforced to be stronger than original. You will note in the pictures I sent that good use was made of the odds and ends of the Z channels from other parts of the aircraft. The end result is a modified rib that is at least as strong as the original. The crossbar was not cut and the instrument panel was machine cut from an .090 2024t3 rather than the supplied .062 sheet. ----- Original Message ----- From: RAS To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 4:06 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Instrument Panel Hi, I Seem to recall that it says in the instructions that the ribs behind the panel should not be cut? This is also the same for the crossbar. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tail cone bulkhead cracks
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 06, 2006
John, Can you take a close-up picture of the crack and post it? Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10327#10327 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roman Bukolt" <conceptmodels(at)mailbag.com>
Subject: Re: Ameri-King AK-450 ELT - Remote Battery Included?
Date: Feb 06, 2006
Protective covering removal I'm about ready to start work on the enpennage of 40541. Question How do I remove a narrowstrip of the plastic covering over the rivet holes without scratching the surface? How long can the covering remain on the pieces before it becomes difficult to remove.? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: RE: Covering removal
>How do I remove a narrowstrip of the plastic covering over the rivet holes without scratching the surface? It's in the Builder's manual (Section 5M, page 5-6); Specifically it says to use a soldering iron, with a rounded (dulled) tip >How long can the covering remain on the pieces before it becomes difficult to remove.? No idea... I know an RV-8 builder who is just now taking it off after 5 years with no problem. -Jim 40384, Waiting to receive tip tanks Roman Bukolt wrote: > Protective covering removal > I'm about ready to start work on the enpennage of 40541. > Question > How do I remove a narrowstrip of the plastic covering over the rivet > holes without scratching the surface? > How long can the covering remain on the pieces before it becomes > difficult to remove.? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust problem - advice sought
I checked on Aircraft Exhaust Technologies website (they do some of the RV-10 exhaust parts) today and foun this statement: "321 stainless steel should be welded with 347 filler rod. Often times not available through local welder's supply, we offer a variety of thicknesses." I checked locally and nobody has 347 rods, but have some good news. Chris at AET said he'd either send me a rod for free or I could ship him the exhaust and he'd weld them for free. I didn't want the shipping and turn-around delay (1 day shipping or 3 days including 2 way shipping to have it done) because I could possibly get my inspection Sunday (I'll be in Oregon Wed-Sat). Chris then did the amazing. He knew that I'm only 1.5 hours from Aerospace Welding in the Twin Cities, and he called them and they agreed to also do the welding job for free, on the spot, if I brought it over to them today. I have had previous welding done at Aerospace Welding with great results, so I know they'll do a good job. I just wanted to pass on the results of this dilema, since both companies are proving their superior customer support. I should be over there later today and have it back on the plane tonight...and then I can do the W&B, and maybe be taxi-ing this week before I leave for Transition Training. Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Any good welder familiar with stainless steel can weld up the old holes. > A really good welder can do it in a way it will be barely detectable. > IIRC You have two of the big names in exhaust repair within one > state...Dawley in WI and Aerospace Welding or something like that in MN. > > Tim Olson wrote: > >> >> I was almost ready to fire the engine up today. I went to >> install my plugs and found that my EGT probe locations I >> chose on the right half of the engine interfered with my >> sparkplugs. I had left the engine pickled, so I never >> removed the temporary plugs they had in the cylinders, lest >> I lose my oil that was in the cylinders. >> >> So, now I need to move the probes. Repositioning them >> is easy, but has anyone ever had to have old EGT >> probe holes patched up before? Should they >> just weld them up, or will that tend to enlarge them >> instead of filling them? Monday a.m. I'm going to >> get on the phone with an aerospace welding shop, but I just >> thought I'd take a chance here and see if my inbox brings >> me any good news in the a.m. >> >> I would have finished my W&B today and been only about >> 2 hours away from being ready for inspection if I hadn't >> hit this bump. >> >> Tim > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Answer from Van's re: bulkhead cracks.
Date: Feb 06, 2006
Their suggestion was to file out the cracks. In otherwords, take a 1/16th drill bit and drill a hole where the crack terminates and then file open the crack and round it off. He said that they are having many bulkheads made of this .024 materail show up with these cracks.( in the 10) I guess if you look at the otherside, the flanges that are used, they have cutouts all over the place and they are designed that way. I'll scan some photos taken with my Zoom lense tonight and try to email them to the group. Do people feel comfortale with this solution. The cracks do get right up to the outside bend radius right before turning into the web. You'll see the photos later. John G. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel sender mount heads-up
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Yep, I had the same thing except mine were in the correct boxes. Ended up re-doing one of them so it would work. Fun trying to figure out if you have two left or two right when the boxes are correct. If I had to do tanks again I would do capacitance just to reduce the likelihood of any future problems. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 4:58 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel sender mount heads-up Van's original shipment to me had both senders for the left wing. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 9:14 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel sender mount heads-up > > Guys: > > Remember the fuel tank sender units supplied by Van are two different part > numbers and are "left and right" > >>From page 18-7 second line' "Use part number IE-385B for the left fuel >>tank; > use IE F-385C for the right tank." > > I'm not sure if this is related to the issue being discussed but a > possibility at least. > > Dick Sipp > N110DV #40065 > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com>
Subject: Dataplate measurements for VAF plate
Date: Feb 06, 2006
Tim - Mine isn't drilled. The proposed hole location marks are 4-inch centers top and bottom, 2-1/4-inches on the sides. Neal Quick request: If you have the VansAirForce data plate, can you do a hole center to center up/dn side/side measurement for me? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Ameri-King AK-450 ELT - Remote Battery Included?
Date: Feb 06, 2006
I used a hot soldering iron. I don't know how long you can leave it on. I have had my kit for a year, and it is about the same. Have fun with your kit..it has been a great 13 months so far for me. Rene' Felker 40322 Access pannels in fuselage N423CF _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roman Bukolt Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 8:52 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ameri-King AK-450 ELT - Remote Battery Included? Protective covering removal I'm about ready to start work on the enpennage of 40541. Question How do I remove a narrowstrip of the plastic covering over the rivet holes without scratching the surface? How long can the covering remain on the pieces before it becomes difficult to remove.? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com>
Subject: Dataplate measurements for VAF plate
Date: Feb 06, 2006
Tim - Mine isn't drilled. The proposed hole location marks are 4-inch centers top and bottom, 2-1/4-inches on the sides. Neal Quick request: If you have the VansAirForce data plate, can you do a hole center to center up/dn side/side measurement for me? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Upper firewall
Date: Feb 06, 2006
I am installing the forward upper framework on the plane that holds the instrument panel and glare shield. The fire wall has a slight bend in the top. Is this normal? It looks like it can only go together one way, but I have never seen a firewall with a bend in the top. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Upper firewall
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
It has a slight bend forward. Bob _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Specketer Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 2:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: Upper firewall I am installing the forward upper framework on the plane that holds the instrument panel and glare shield. The fire wall has a slight bend in the top. Is this normal? It looks like it can only go together one way, but I have never seen a firewall with a bend in the top. Gary ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred@cox-internet.com>
Subject: RE: plastic covering removal
I have used a small wood burning tool. Heats up just fine and the plastic peels away. Just use the side so it doesn't scratch the aluminum. Fred Williams drfred@cox-internet.com 40515 working on HS rivets. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Cabin door opening
Date: Feb 06, 2006
I am installing the doors and discovered the scribe line wasn't too accurate. I have a question and a request. First, is everyone maintaining the 1/16th to 1/8th" gap all the way around the opening or is the gap larger. It seems like a much larger gap based on some pictures I took at Sun-n-Fun but it's hard to tell for sure. My request is, could someone post a picture of the inside of the door while closed to see the gap? Thanks, Marcus ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trim Tab Cable Anchor Bracket
From: "Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining(at)wellsfargo.com>
Date: Feb 06, 2006
He has great customer service too. My anchor brackets showed up a couple weeks ago all beaten up. It looked like they got caught in UPS' conveyor/sorter system and then run over by a truck. I called Dave, and he volunteered to send me a new pair free of charge. Today on my doorstep: a beautiful pair of anchor brackets. Thanks Dave! Jon Reining Albany, CA #40514 elevators Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10471#10471 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tail cone bulkhead cracks
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pictures of bulkhead cracks
Date: Feb 06, 2006
Thanks all for the insight. The bottom line is that I am a little pissed off that the guy with the English accent was so quick to determine a fix without knowing the extent of the cracks or how I felt about it. With something like this, its about the customer's piece of mind, and this is one case where the clients feelings are right. Brand new plane, hours and hours of work, my family's safety, the longevity of the aircraft, possibly someone else's safety, the effort to pull it apart to remove the part....EEEEEEE! sounds like Charlie Brown. I think John's, .02 cents is right. I guess I will have to send the parts back with the form saying "defective". I'll pay the freight back, which I shouldn't have to. If they charge me for freight to send the new parts, then it is letter time. It should be letter time anyway and perhaps it will be since this will delay my building for a week and a half or more. What else will I do. This is bad customer relation from a very innocent thing with potentially huge implications. John G ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Pictures of bulkhead cracks
Date: Feb 06, 2006
My .02, call them and tell Van's that you are returning the parts, and have them send a new one. They will send it to you, and work on something else until it arrives. I have learned that Van's is very good about replacing parts, and they are just as interested as you are in getting a good product out the door. Jump ahead in the plans until the replacement part arrives. Or deburr something. Bob K 40125 Top forward fuselage skin -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 7:22 PM Subject: RV10-List: Pictures of bulkhead cracks Thanks all for the insight. The bottom line is that I am a little pissed off that the guy with the English accent was so quick to determine a fix without knowing the extent of the cracks or how I felt about it. With something like this, its about the customer's piece of mind, and this is one case where the clients feelings are right. Brand new plane, hours and hours of work, my family's safety, the longevity of the aircraft, possibly someone else's safety, the effort to pull it apart to remove the part....EEEEEEE! sounds like Charlie Brown. I think John's, .02 cents is right. I guess I will have to send the parts back with the form saying "defective". I'll pay the freight back, which I shouldn't have to. If they charge me for freight to send the new parts, then it is letter time. It should be letter time anyway and perhaps it will be since this will delay my building for a week and a half or more. What else will I do. This is bad customer relation from a very innocent thing with potentially huge implications. John G ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Tail cone bulkhead cracks
Until I saw your pictures I would have agreed with the stop drill option, It is OK to do that in some case (don't flame me, look at all the spam cans, F-4's and B-52's, with stop drilled cracks) but the location of those crack indicate the material was stretched until it tore. I think there may be more distress than meets the eye. Good call to replace the part. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Elevator counterweight question
Date: Feb 07, 2006
On page 9-15 (maybe 9-16, I don't remember) the instructions tell us to install the elevator counterweights with the listed hardware. The hardware consists of the 2 bolts (per elevator), two washers on the back side (nut side) and two nuts. It seems like there should be a washer between the bolt head and the lead counterweight but the instructions don't show this. Has anybody else installed washers on the side of the bolt head??? Also, what method are you using to trim the lead counterweights. I used the bandsaw to rough cut to the line but then had to file it to finish it because the lead fills up sandpaper, and the grinding wheels. The worst part was the backs of the 2 counterweights that had to be ground flush to fit inside of the tip ribs. Probably spent 2 1/2 hours trimming 4 weights today. Anybody got any secrets??? If there are more of these to do on the plane I'll probably take them to town and have them milled with a lathe next time!!! Finally, where can I look to find instructions on using safetywire. I think the way I'm doing it is correct but would like to see some pictures or written instructions to confirm. Bill Britton RV-10 Elevators finished, about ready to disassemble and deburr/prime tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods...
Date: Feb 07, 2006
Get a copy of AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices. I think it is available on line but a print copy is an indispensable reference. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ .Finally, where can I look to find instructions on using safetywire. I think the way I'm doing it is correct but would like to see some pictures or written instructions to confirm. Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: VS -1003
Date: Feb 07, 2006
Hi Guys, I have made a small error on my RV 10 Vertical Stabilizer that I think may be ok but would like to clarify. On the VS-1003, I have dimpled the whole way down on each side and not countersunk the section mentioned on plan. Can I now countersink each hole on VS - 1014-R and VS - 1014- L or will this weaken the structure ?. Going on the manual in the section on countersinking and machining I'm not convinced that VS- 1003 should be countersunk as it doesn't seem thick enough. I'm not telling you how to build the plane, it was just an observation. Thank you Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Elevator counterweight question
Bill, the Vixen file works great to trim the lead. Deems Davis # 406 Wings http://deemsrv10.com/ Bill and Tami Britton wrote: > On page 9-15 (maybe 9-16, I don't remember) the instructions tell us > to install the elevator counterweights with the listed hardware. The > hardware consists of the 2 bolts (per elevator), two washers on the > back side (nut side) and two nuts. It seems like there should be a > washer between the bolt head and the lead counterweight but the > instructions don't show this. Has anybody else installed washers on > the side of the bolt head??? > > Also, what method are you using to trim the lead counterweights. I > used the bandsaw to rough cut to the line but then had to file it to > finish it because the lead fills up sandpaper, and the grinding > wheels. The worst part was the backs of the 2 counterweights that had > to be ground flush to fit inside of the tip ribs. Probably spent 2 > 1/2 hours trimming 4 weights today. Anybody got any secrets??? If > there are more of these to do on the plane I'll probably take them to > town and have them milled with a lathe next time!!! > > Finally, where can I look to find instructions on using safetywire. I > think the way I'm doing it is correct but would like to see some > pictures or written instructions to confirm. > > Bill Britton > RV-10 Elevators finished, about ready to disassemble and deburr/prime > tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Elevator counterweight question
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 07, 2006
Bill, I clamped the lead in a vice and took a "Sawz-All" to it. Cleaned it up up a Vixen file. Should not be anymore lead to cut. The Ailerons on my RV8 have lead pipes in the leading edge and I assume the Rv10 does too. Joe -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10562#10562 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Parts F 1010, and part F 1008 R, RV 10 #40409
Date: Feb 07, 2006
Like you all said, here you go. Thanks all for your support. Does this mean someone else gets them down the line....EEEEEEE! Good Grief, CB. JOhn >From: "Scott Risan " <scottr(at)vansaircraft.com> >To: "John Gonzalez" >Subject: Re: Parts F 1010, and part F 1008 R, RV 10 #40409 >Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 08:15:09 -0800 > >Agreed, John....we don't want you having any doubts in your mind when >this project is finished! We'll get replacements out to you asap. > >SAFETY is absolutely the most important factor we consider here at >Van's. If the parts were not airworthy or easily repaired to be made >so, we certainly would not recommend using them! > >Engineering has looked closely at these parts and the cracks (several >hundred were repaired here at Van's and the CNC program was changed >to reduce the flange height in the areas of the cracks to prevent >future problems). While we can assure you that if the cracks are >stop drilled or filed out, there will be no structural issues, it is, >as you said, very important that the builder be comfortable with >their parts. > >We would appreciate you returning the parts as they can be repaired >here at Van's quite easily. Replacements will leave here asap. > >Regards, >Scott Risan >General Manager >Van's Aircraft, Inc. > >Forwarded by: "Support" >Forwarded to: scottr >From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> >To: support(at)vansaircraft.com >BCC to: >Subject: Parts F 1010, and part F 1008 R, RV 10 #40409 > >Here are pictures of the cracks I have found on both of these parts. >I called customer service today and was referred to a technical >advisor who on explanation of my probelm only said just file it out. > >I am unsatisfied with this and will be sending the parts back as >defective. I will not use these as I am unsure as to just how far >these fracture propogate into the parts. > >I would like to avoid the shipping cost of me sending back the parts >for you to only throw them in the garbage. I would like to get >replacements before weeks go by as I needed them last weekend. > >One issue that should be considered is that with issue like this, >involving safety and a customers piece of mind...the customers piece >of mind is of utmost importance and so to is their safety. > >Thank you, > >JOhn Gonzalez > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: TruTrak Roll Servo install
I just received my roll servo. There are two 8.5x11" photocopys/pics one of the roll servo and one of the elevator. Are there any instructions (there weren't any in the package). I believe I can figure out where Most all of the hardware goes, but it would be nice to have some reinforcement. Also, I only ordered the servo at this time, the cable did not come with it. Was it supposed to? I'm thinking about closing out my wings and would like to have the cable to install. Deems Davis # 406 Wings http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of bulkhead cracks
Date: Feb 08, 2006
Vans just sent me a new gear leg as the R one was faulty.....Cost them $300 for part and $200 for freight downunder........I cant complain. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 2:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Pictures of bulkhead cracks > Thanks all for the insight. The bottom line is that I am a little pissed > off that the guy with the English accent was so quick to determine a fix > without knowing the extent of the cracks or how I felt about it. With > something like this, its about the customer's piece of mind, and this is one > case where the clients feelings are right. > > Brand new plane, hours and hours of work, my family's safety, the longevity > of the aircraft, possibly someone else's safety, the effort to pull it apart > to remove the part....EEEEEEE! sounds like Charlie Brown. > > I think John's, .02 cents is right. I guess I will have to send the parts > back with the form saying "defective". I'll pay the freight back, which I > shouldn't have to. If they charge me for freight to send the new parts, > then it is letter time. It should be letter time anyway and perhaps it will > be since this will delay my building for a week and a half or more. What > else will I do. This is bad customer relation from a very innocent thing > with potentially huge implications. > > > John G > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2006
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: TruTrak Roll Servo install
I didn't receive anything other than the photos and drawings either, just gave it a whirl. Turned out ok. The harness doesn't come with it. You have to either make it yourself or purchase one. I went with the 1/2 harness for the wing that Stein makes. It's a very nice harness and you are able to just order the portion needed to close out the wing. -Sean #40303 (installing tanks finally) Deems Davis wrote: > > I just received my roll servo. There are two 8.5x11" photocopys/pics > one of the roll servo and one of the elevator. Are there any > instructions (there weren't any in the package). I believe I can > figure out where Most all of the hardware goes, but it would be nice > to have some reinforcement. Also, I only ordered the servo at this > time, the cable did not come with it. Was it supposed to? I'm thinking > about closing out my wings and would like to have the cable to install. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Wings > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Parts F 1010, and part F 1008 R, RV 10 #40409
Date: Feb 07, 2006
>From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> >To: scottr(at)vansaircraft.com, indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com >Subject: Re: Parts F 1010, and part F 1008 R, RV 10 #40409 >Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2006 11:15:56 -0800 > >Thank you Scott for your speedy reply. > >May I make a suggestion or two for the future. Just a thought! > >This seems to be a re occurring problem that even with the CNC program >change still occurs. So perhaps two things might be instigated in your >protocol. > >1) Perhaps Van's can peel back the corners of the plastic covering and >check these parts before they leave the shop. If a crack is found, the >remedial action as described should take place by Van's personel. > >2) In addition, a note in the manual about about why there might be a >relief hole placed in the inner flange so as to not alarm the builder when >it looks different from other flanges. > >Just an idea. > >I will send back the parts(2) but the second one is rather long and >difficult to box up and send without costly shipping. > >Thanks, > >JOhn Gonzalez > > >>From: "Scott Risan " <scottr(at)vansaircraft.com> >>To: "John Gonzalez" >>Subject: Re: Parts F 1010, and part F 1008 R, RV 10 #40409 >>Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 08:15:09 -0800 >> >>Agreed, John....we don't want you having any doubts in your mind when >>this project is finished! We'll get replacements out to you asap. >> >>SAFETY is absolutely the most important factor we consider here at >>Van's. If the parts were not airworthy or easily repaired to be made >>so, we certainly would not recommend using them! >> >>Engineering has looked closely at these parts and the cracks (several >>hundred were repaired here at Van's and the CNC program was changed >>to reduce the flange height in the areas of the cracks to prevent >>future problems). While we can assure you that if the cracks are >>stop drilled or filed out, there will be no structural issues, it is, >>as you said, very important that the builder be comfortable with >>their parts. >> >>We would appreciate you returning the parts as they can be repaired >>here at Van's quite easily. Replacements will leave here asap. >> >>Regards, >>Scott Risan >>General Manager >>Van's Aircraft, Inc. >> >>Forwarded by: "Support" >>Forwarded to: scottr >>From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> >>To: support(at)vansaircraft.com >>BCC to: >>Subject: Parts F 1010, and part F 1008 R, RV 10 #40409 >> >>Here are pictures of the cracks I have found on both of these parts. >>I called customer service today and was referred to a technical >>advisor who on explanation of my probelm only said just file it out. >> >>I am unsatisfied with this and will be sending the parts back as >>defective. I will not use these as I am unsure as to just how far >>these fracture propogate into the parts. >> >>I would like to avoid the shipping cost of me sending back the parts >>for you to only throw them in the garbage. I would like to get >>replacements before weeks go by as I needed them last weekend. >> >>One issue that should be considered is that with issue like this, >>involving safety and a customers piece of mind...the customers piece >>of mind is of utmost importance and so to is their safety. >> >>Thank you, >> >>JOhn Gonzalez >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: VS -1003
Date: Feb 07, 2006
Paul, I am sorry I do not have my manual with me but do not know if anyone answered your question. Are you speaking about the spar, the spar caps and the skin junction. If so, as I remember it, the spar was countersunk and eventhough the material is not very thick, the holes could be close to knife edged because the spar caps are sandwiching the spar flange. Don't enlarge the hole by going too deep! Maybe I have this backwards, but this is how I remember it. One of the things that seems to happen when one dimples the thin spars is that the flange angle in relationship to the web changes. You may notice this when you rivet the spar,skin and caps together. The caps seem to pull the skin in on the bottom of the VS, but where the spar is only dimpled above the caps, the skin slightly flares. A consistent contour from VS to rudder is preferred. The manual only discusses this spar flange angle change after dimpling when working on the rear spar of the elevator, much later in the build process. If I did it again, I would check the angle of the VS spar before dimpling and make sure it is the same after dimpling. John G >From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV10-List: VS -1003 >Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 21:55:30 +1100 > >Hi Guys, > >I have made a small error on my RV 10 Vertical Stabilizer that I think may >be ok but would like to clarify. > >On the VS-1003, I have dimpled the whole way down on each side and not >countersunk the section mentioned on plan. Can I now countersink each hole >on VS - 1014-R and VS - 1014- L or will this weaken the structure ?. Going >on the manual in the section on countersinking and machining I'm not >convinced that VS- 1003 should be countersunk as it doesn't seem thick >enough. I'm not telling you how to build the plane, it was just an >observation. > > >Thank you > > >Paul Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Pictures of bulkhead cracks
Date: Feb 08, 2006
Chris, What was wrong with the leg? John 40315 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie Darcy Sent: Wednesday, 8 February 2006 5:47 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pictures of bulkhead cracks Vans just sent me a new gear leg as the R one was faulty.....Cost them $300 for part and $200 for freight downunder........I cant complain. Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: TruTrak Roll Servo install
Date: Feb 07, 2006
Having just done this the day before yesterday (and I don't even have the roll servo yet for the -10, but do have a TruTrak in my -7A) I can say that if you are handy at all with a soldering gun, you can make the roll harness in about an hour with: - a female DB9 connector from Radio Shack (or Digikey) - seven half inch long pieces of 1/8 inch diam heat shrink tubing - seven pieces of approx 8 ft long wire (2 that are 20AWG and 5 that are 22 AWG, or all 20 AWG if that's all you have) - An 8 position Amp Mate N Lok connector, or another DB9 connector for the wing root. At the servo location, solder one end of the wires (pins 1 and 9 are the larger 20 AWG wires) to the pins on the DB9 connector, per the wiring diagram listed below. Slide a little piece of shrink tubing over each pin as it is soldered. Thread the wires through the snap bushings to the wing root, and attach the other connector there. Viola. Your done. Testing it (other than a continuity test on each wire) comes months later... The plug wiring diagram is on page 13 of the installation manual, which is at: http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/documents/DigiflightIIinstall.pdf -Dan Masys 40448 > From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> > Date: 2006/02/07 Tue AM 11:28:19 PST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: TruTrak Roll Servo install > > > I just received my roll servo. There are two 8.5x11" photocopys/pics > one of the roll servo and one of the elevator. Are there any > instructions (there weren't any in the package). I believe I can figure > out where Most all of the hardware goes, but it would be nice to have > some reinforcement. Also, I only ordered the servo at this time, the > cable did not come with it. Was it supposed to? I'm thinking about > closing out my wings and would like to have the cable to install. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Wings > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Pictures of bulkhead cracks
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 07, 2006
After reading about John G's bulkhead cracks, I checked mine over. I guess I got some of the parts that had stress cracks from hydro-forming the bulkhead and you can clearly see where Vans' filed them out. I'm not too worried about it because I have plenty of flange leftover. It seems that Vans fix to this problem will be to shorten the flange on subsequent bulkheads. Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10694#10694 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04188_165.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04189_916.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Elevator counterweight question
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: TruTrak Roll Servo install
Wow Dan, Thanks for the instructions! sounds like it shouldn't be too much of a hassle and another 'learning experience' I think I'll give it a try. The servo install went pretty straight forward, (didn't end up with any left over parts!) Dan Masys wrote: > >Having just done this the day before yesterday (and I don't even have the roll servo yet for the -10, but do have a TruTrak in my -7A) I can say that if you are handy at all with a soldering gun, you can make the roll harness in about an hour with: > >- a female DB9 connector from Radio Shack (or Digikey) >- seven half inch long pieces of 1/8 inch diam heat shrink tubing >- seven pieces of approx 8 ft long wire (2 that are 20AWG and 5 that are 22 AWG, or all 20 AWG if that's all you have) >- An 8 position Amp Mate N Lok connector, or another DB9 connector for the wing root. > >At the servo location, solder one end of the wires (pins 1 and 9 are the larger 20 AWG wires) to the pins on the DB9 connector, per the wiring diagram listed below. Slide a little piece of shrink tubing over each pin as it is soldered. Thread the wires through the snap bushings to the wing root, and attach the other connector there. Viola. Your done. Testing it (other than a continuity test on each wire) comes months later... > >The plug wiring diagram is on page 13 of the installation manual, which is at: >http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/documents/DigiflightIIinstall.pdf > >-Dan Masys >40448 > > > >>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> >>Date: 2006/02/07 Tue AM 11:28:19 PST >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >>Subject: RV10-List: TruTrak Roll Servo install >> >> >>I just received my roll servo. There are two 8.5x11" photocopys/pics >>one of the roll servo and one of the elevator. Are there any >>instructions (there weren't any in the package). I believe I can figure >>out where Most all of the hardware goes, but it would be nice to have >>some reinforcement. Also, I only ordered the servo at this time, the >>cable did not come with it. Was it supposed to? I'm thinking about >>closing out my wings and would like to have the cable to install. >> >>Deems Davis # 406 >>Wings >>http://deemsrv10.com/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: TruTrak Roll Servo install
Deems, There are a bunch of photos of the install on my website at <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/RollServo/index.html> Tim has the information on the bolts and washers that are required. Don't forget the over sized washer to keep the bearing in place if it ever fails. Get some different length AN-3 hardware. As always the length you want is the length you do not have. Larry http://lrosen.nerv10.com Deems Davis wrote: > > I just received my roll servo. There are two 8.5x11" photocopys/pics > one of the roll servo and one of the elevator. Are there any > instructions (there weren't any in the package). I believe I can > figure out where Most all of the hardware goes, but it would be nice > to have some reinforcement. Also, I only ordered the servo at this > time, the cable did not come with it. Was it supposed to? I'm thinking > about closing out my wings and would like to have the cable to install. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Wings > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Cabin (inside) paint
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Time to paint the cabin. Any opinions on gloss vs satin vs matt? The -10 cabin is pretty big, any advantages/disadvantages of light vs dark shades etc? I am a philistine when it comes to color selection, paint schemes, interior design and other shiela stuff - and I don't think my wife is much better ;-(. I hate this part. Let me pound them rivets and crimp them wires any day . . . All suggestions hugely appreciated. thanks in advance Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin (inside) paint
Date: Feb 07, 2006
Cabin (inside) paintI think we will be going with a gun metal gray semigloss interior; probably maroon seat belts to match the deep maroon tips,spinner, etc.. Aircraft will be matterhorn white. Panel is powder coat gray. glareshield will be flat black. ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2006 7:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Cabin (inside) paint Time to paint the cabin. Any opinions on gloss vs satin vs matt? The -10 cabin is pretty big, any advantages/disadvantages of light vs dark shades etc? I am a philistine when it comes to color selection, paint schemes, interior design and other shiela stuff - and I don't think my wife is much better ;-(. I hate this part. Let me pound them rivets and crimp them wires any day . . . All suggestions hugely appreciated. thanks in advance Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Cabin (inside) paint
Date: Feb 08, 2006
Hi Ron, I'd have a look at Tim Olsons website. He has some great tips on paint, finishes and interior links. John #40315 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Wednesday, 8 February 2006 12:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Cabin (inside) paint Time to paint the cabin. Any opinions on gloss vs satin vs matt? The -10 cabin is pretty big, any advantages/disadvantages of light vs dark shades etc? I am a philistine when it comes to color selection, paint schemes, interior design and other shiela stuff - and I don't think my wife is much better ;-(. I hate this part. Let me pound them rivets and crimp them wires any day . . . All suggestions hugely appreciated. thanks in advance Ron ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Faulty gear leg
Date: Feb 08, 2006
This service bulletin from Vans about leg nuts got me checking.....both nuts fitted on 1 leg but not on the other. I emailed vans and it turns out that one leg was not threaded properly or dropped then filed or whatever... who cares not good enough.So Vans sent new nuts and 1 new leg but interesting the nut did not really like the new leg....took some effort to get it on etc etc however bit of lubricant and all well. I had written previous posts to this about the leg but no replies. Anyway....Vans are great....this is my second RV and no comparison to the 6.....so eeeeasy!!! No head scratching ....just get into it!!! regards Chris 388 Melbourne Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: John Dunne To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:55 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Pictures of bulkhead cracks Chris, What was wrong with the leg? John 40315 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris , Susie Darcy Sent: Wednesday, 8 February 2006 5:47 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pictures of bulkhead cracks Vans just sent me a new gear leg as the R one was faulty.....Cost them $300 for part and $200 for freight downunder........I cant complain. Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: Kent Forsythe <matronix.rv10(at)4sythe.com>
Subject: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the RV10 tanks? If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to fit/work OK? Thanks in advance, Kent Forsythe 40338 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Custom length capacitive sensors available from Skysports. We used 8 inch bendable, 8 inch measuring, bent in an 'S'. About $75 each. See Skysports website - they have lots of info. This is another good Wiki topic, since it gets asked about every 5 months or so . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the RV10 tanks? If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to fit/work OK? Thanks in advance, Kent Forsythe 40338 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Cabin (inside) paint
I am using RM (BASF) single step paint UNO-HD. It is a light gray satin finish (flattner is already mixed in). The color or stock number is 9112A 225306. It is compatible with the Akzo Nobel primer that I am using. I am planning on a silver gray headliner, charcoal floor mats, and light gray side wall panels. I had the rudder peddle supports, control stick and center canopy support powder coated charcoal. You can see photos here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Interior/index.html> Larry Rosen http://lrosen.nerv10.com McGANN, Ron wrote: > Time to paint the cabin. Any opinions on gloss vs satin vs matt? The > -10 cabin is pretty big, any advantages/disadvantages of light vs dark > shades etc? I am a philistine when it comes to color selection, paint > schemes, interior design and other shiela stuff - and I don't think my > wife is much better ;-(. I hate this part. Let me pound them rivets > and crimp them wires any day . . . > > All suggestions hugely appreciated. > > thanks in advance > Ron > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey TDT - I also went with skysports, but they haven't arrived yet. I have a question for you - are you measuring in just one bay? I purchased a set that are 6" bendable, 20" measuring, and I've prepared to have the probe bend up, then go diagonally through the first 2 bays. Just wondering what your thoughts are on that? cj #40410 wings www.perfectlygoodairplane.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:58 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 Custom length capacitive sensors available from Skysports. We used 8 inch bendable, 8 inch measuring, bent in an 'S'. About $75 each. See Skysports website - they have lots of info. This is another good Wiki topic, since it gets asked about every 5 months or so . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the RV10 tanks? If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to fit/work OK? Thanks in advance, Kent Forsythe 40338 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Ooh, that sounds good. We're just measuring in the first bay. We haven't actually tested them yet, so that will be interesting . . . TDT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Johnston Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:45 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 Hey TDT - I also went with skysports, but they haven't arrived yet. I have a question for you - are you measuring in just one bay? I purchased a set that are 6" bendable, 20" measuring, and I've prepared to have the probe bend up, then go diagonally through the first 2 bays. Just wondering what your thoughts are on that? cj #40410 wings www.perfectlygoodairplane.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Dawson-Townsend Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 5:58 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 Custom length capacitive sensors available from Skysports. We used 8 inch bendable, 8 inch measuring, bent in an 'S'. About $75 each. See Skysports website - they have lots of info. This is another good Wiki topic, since it gets asked about every 5 months or so . . . TDT 40025 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Forsythe Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: RV8 Capacitance Senders in RV10 Has anyone tries using capacitance senders designed for the RV8 in the RV10 tanks? If so, was much modification required? Do they seem to fit/work OK? Thanks in advance, Kent Forsythe 40338 Wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type
Date: Feb 08, 2006
Can those "in the know" discuss the pros and cons of these two approaches to fuel measurement? Jeff Carpenter 40304 Wing Outboard Leading Edge (Thinking about the tanks) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
This is from a post by Andrew on VAF. Just ran across this tonight. <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf> Looks like I will have some rework. -- Larry Rosen RV-10 #356 http://lrosen.nerv10.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
My heart goes out to all of you just about ready to fly! Bruce 40018 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2006
From: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
My heart goes out to all of you just about ready to fly! Bruce 40018 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
Date: Feb 08, 2006
So, will these parts automatically be sent out or do we need to contact Vans??? Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 2:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer > > This is from a post by Andrew on VAF. > Just ran across this tonight. > <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf> > > Looks like I will have some rework. > > -- > > Larry Rosen > RV-10 #356 > http://lrosen.nerv10.com > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: Cabin door opening
Date: Feb 08, 2006
Good thought Tim: I had not considered the covering on the inside of the door. The sanding is all done and the door fitted but I have not done any "clean up" to the face or door itself. There appears to be anywhere from flush to 1/8" gap between the door and frame - I really didn't do a good job with that part. I don't plan to do anything till I get the doors latched down. I plan to get with Abby at Flightline to get the liner ordered and get a sample for thickness checks - I'll definitely have to take that into account. Thanks for the heads up!. Byron #40253 Finishing -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 8:19 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin door opening Byron, You should post a pic of your door and then one of the gutter from the outside. With careful filing, you shouldn't have too much roughness in that gap. There's not much left of the outward lip of the channel when you get the door fit. Some of the gap will depend on if you fabric cover your door, or if you smooth and paint it plain. I can say though that if you're careful, that gap can be minimal. I made sure mine was able to have a piece of paper pulled through it easily, but that's about the extent of much of the gap....maybe a bunch more on the bottom by accident. I don't know if I'd bother filling the gap with epoxy until you're ready to paint. You might find when you're at the painting stage that you need to adjust even more. Also, if you plan to fabric cover the door, put some scraps around the lip and check the fit. I ended up re-sanding the lip after I put fabric on because I needed MORE gap. What may look huge now may be smaller when you get further along. Good luck, Tim Byron Gillespie wrote: > > Hi Marcus: > > I have been watching your question and haven't seen any response. I have.................................................................... .................................. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type
Date: Feb 08, 2006
It has been some time since I relied upon burning fuel to fly, but isn't it a better idea to rely on fuel burn measurements and time running rather than be to hung up on what a gauge indicates. I really don't know, but that is what I am thinking??????? John 409 tailcone >From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type >Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 10:38:28 -0800 > > >Can those "in the know" discuss the pros and cons of these two approaches >to fuel measurement? > >Jeff Carpenter >40304 >Wing Outboard Leading Edge >(Thinking about the tanks) > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2006
Subject: Re: Capacitance Senders vs. Float Type
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
John Gonzalez wrote: > > It has been some time since I relied upon burning fuel to fly, but isn't > it a better idea to rely on fuel burn measurements and time running > rather than be to hung up on what a gauge indicates. Unless of course you have a fuel leak that you don't know about. You may think you have 10 gals left when the tank leaks dry... I'm likely to have both a fuel guage and fuel totalizer in mine. It is really not that much extra considering. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
From: AndrewTR30(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 09, 2006
Subject: Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
I e-mailed Vans about it and they are sending one out. Andrew Rayhill Finishing Wings (and re-visiting VS) Phoenix ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
Date: Feb 08, 2006
Why did I decide back then to place the shop heads on the rudder hinge brackets and the factory heads on the spar where I couldn't see them??? Don't think I have drilled out a rivet yet, going in this direction. John G. >From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer >Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 15:21:20 -0500 > > >This is from a post by Andrew on VAF. >Just ran across this tonight. ><http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf> > >Looks like I will have some rework. > >-- > >Larry Rosen >RV-10 #356 >http://lrosen.nerv10.com > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2006
From: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
Talk about speedy service! Got home yesterday and the part was in a #10 envelope with the instructions wrapped around it. Bruce ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2006
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling
I had contacted Vans about this also. Their response was: "The holes in F-1015A that correspond to the flush rivets in the skin as shown on 29-17 need to be dimpled. If you didn't dimple the row of holes nearest the bottom skin in the rib, you can use AN470AD4 rivets if you want to." What I have done is order a dimpling tool from Avery which is used in a rivet gun. This allows you to put a decent amount of force on it. The tool is a bit awakward in tight places but I managed to use it. additionally if you have a slightly large dimple die like the ones used for the fuel tanks that will help also. Niko 40188 ----- Original Message ---- From: PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 6:27:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling I dimpled the top half of the 1015A and then countersunk the part that overlaps with the 1015B. I dimpled the F1070 side skins. PJ RV-10 #40032 McGANN wrote: > Hi all, > > My tribulations with Section 29 and the side skins continue. > > Following is a query to Vans: > > "I did not notice anything in the plans about dimpling F-1015B intercostals or F-1015A Outboard Footwell ribs in Section 26. Section 29 calls for AN426 rivets and seems to assume that the understructure has been countersunk or dimpled. The top half of the F1015B behind the F-1015F can be readily dimpled, as can most holes in the F-1015A (using a pop rivet dimpler). I cannot however dimple the overlap between the 1015B and 1015A (insufficient dimpling pressure from the pop rivet dies to dimple both skins together). > > Is countersinking the F1070 side skins for 426 rivets (rather than dimpling the skins and understructure) acceptable along the vertical row of holes joining the skin, 1015A and 1015B?" > > Vans Response: > > "We have recently discovered this, and will be revising the instructions slightly. > > In your case, rather than c'sinking the skins, engineering suggests that you drill the holes that won't/can't dimple to #30 and installing 470AD4 rivets. These are inside the profile of the wing and won't be seen when the wing and root fairing are installed." > > If I remember right, Section 26 does not address preparation of the F1015A at all. > > Vans acknowledges a deficiency in the plans. For those that have preceded, how did you treat this issue? Is there some other way of dimpling these overlapping parts? > > thx, > > Ron #187 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
Date: Feb 09, 2006
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
I just got off the phone with Van's. They are automatically sending them out over the next week or so. Bob #40105 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 7:02 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer So, will these parts automatically be sent out or do we need to contact Vans??? Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 2:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer > > This is from a post by Andrew on VAF. > Just ran across this tonight. > <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf> > > Looks like I will have some rework. > > -- > > Larry Rosen > RV-10 #356 > http://lrosen.nerv10.com > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer
Date: Feb 09, 2006
I was just about to close up the VS too. Caught a break this time. I'm sure they'll be other ones I don't catch though! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 4:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer > > > I just got off the phone with Van's. They are automatically sending > them out over the next week or so. > > Bob #40105 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami > Britton > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 7:02 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer > > > > So, will these parts automatically be sent out or do we need to contact > Vans??? > > Bill Britton > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 2:21 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Service Bulletin SB 06-2-3 Vertical Stabilizer > > >> >> This is from a post by Andrew on VAF. >> Just ran across this tonight. >> <http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb06-2-3.pdf> >> >> Looks like I will have some rework. >> >> -- >> >> Larry Rosen >> RV-10 #356 >> http://lrosen.nerv10.com >> >> >> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2006
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Toggle Switch Breakers
Rob's right. I don't have any in my plane, but it would have been great if I did. I'd consider them perfect for things like the Landing lights, strobe lights, nav lights, and stuff like that. They'll cost more, but when you combine a switch and breaker price it's probably a wash. If I ever need more breaker space, that's how I'll be getting it. I'd also highly recommend the fuse blocks for all of your misc. circuits. They're also on SteinAir's site. My theory on fuses vs. circuit breakers was this: If the item was an incidental item to flight, or highly unlikely to ever have a fuse blow, I put it on a fuse. Things like WSI weather, ANR power, Entertainment power, my LED Nav Lights, Start switch, annunciator lights, and even some basic avionics like the encoder are all on fuses. These things for the most part should never blow unless there's a problem, and in that case I wouldn't really care to change a fuse in flight anyway. The reason I put some items on breakers was to be able to pull power to something if you want to. In the case of flaps, Trim, and Autopilot, I see this as particularly important, as you don't want any runaway controls that you can positively un-power. For all the others, some will fit the use of switches quite well as mentioned above, and some might be easiest to just put on a breaker. That's probably more than you wanted for info, and it's all just personal preference, but I'd encourage you to come up with a personal logical theory that you are comfortable with and then try to fit your items into that mold. Also, when you're planning for circuits, give yourself room for more switches, and add a couple of spare blank breakers and fuses. During the final electrical wiring I found I needed a couple more than I planned for. I can also highly recommend B&C's 48 tab ground block. I actually used over 48 connections so a couple terminals have more than one ground wire on them. It does a great job of concentrating the grounds. Tim Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 Current section: Transition Training rob kermanj wrote: > > I used these switched wherever I needed a CB and a switch. They > simplify the wiring. I have a few friends using these in their RVs > without any problems. I don't think that you are missing anything. > > > rob kermanj > rv10es(at)earthlink.net > > > > On Feb 9, 2006, at 8:59 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote: > >> >> I'm going to check out my Aeroelectric book, but I was wondering if there >> are any thoughts out there regarding the combo toggle switch/circuit >> breakers (model W31 on Stein Air's site)? Seems like a pretty simple >> way to >> go, am I missing something? >> >> Thanks, >> Marcus >> >> (Hey Razor!) >> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Toggle Switch Breakers
Date: Feb 10, 2006
----- Original Message ----- From: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:05 AM Subject: Returned Mail: Re: Toggle Switch Breakers > The following message from "David McNeill" was not > authorized for entry in the Matronics Email Lists forum. > > Reason: There were problems with the attachments [Attachment must have a > filename to be saved to a forum.] > > > Visit this URL to register: http://forums.matronics.com//index.php > > From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Toggle Switch Breakers > **************************************** > > I am using standard magnetos initially as provided by Lycoming. What looks > like a breaker (red tip) is actually a spring loaded switch to ground the > starter relay for starting. The two breakers (left and right mag) are > mounted upside down so that "down is off" actually grounds the mags. > Lastly > because the GRT EIS 6000 (Chelton version) displays only one RPM at a time > one must select the mag to use for RPM display. > > BTW the no ignition key setup is common in twin Cessnas. By passing the > standard ignition key is a 5 second procedure to snip two mag wires and > jumper temporarily the starter relay to ground. > > Regards the aux master. This is a breaker that grounds the master > contactor > for the second battery. so that either or both can be used to start the > aircraft. I am using twin Odyssey 680s, which will provide 1360a for the > first five seconds. Normal operation will use one battery with the second > used to initialize the avionics and as emergency backup in flight. > > If at any time the aux battery is necessary to start the aircraft, the > avionics can be kept off line by pulling individual breakers. > > --- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2006
Subject: To/From Avionics Question
From: n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net
Can someone tell me what the "+To" and "+From" wires from a nav radio actually do? What data do they send? I have them on my SL30 and it would seem like it sends data that states you are TO or FROM a VOR, but I have the same outputs on my GX60 which is a IFR certified GPS/Comm and I would not expect it on that unit if they were relating to a VOR. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Mike Kraus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: Toggle Switch Breakers
Date: Feb 10, 2006
David that is a nice clean wiring set up, you have given me some idea's. What type (gauge,size) of aluminum angle are you using to mount your switches in ? Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:58 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Toggle Switch Breakers I am using standard magnetos initially as provided by Lycoming. What looks like a breaker (red tip) is actually a spring loaded switch to ground the starter relay for starting. The two breakers (left and right mag) are mounted upside down so that "down is off" actually grounds the mags. Lastly because the GRT EIS 6000 (Chelton version) displays only one RPM at a time one must select the mag to use for RPM display. BTW the no ignition key setup is common in twin Cessnas. By passing the standard ignition key is a 5 second procedure to snip two mag wires and jumper temporarily the starter relay to ground. Regards the aux master. This is a breaker that grounds the master contactor for the second battery. so that either or both can be used to start the aircraft. I am using twin Odyssey 680s, which will provide 1360a for the first five seconds. Normal operation will use one battery with the second used to initialize the avionics and as emergency backup in flight. If at any time the aux battery is necessary to start the aircraft, the avionics can be kept off line by pulling individual breakers. ----- Original Message ----- From: Sam Marlow To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:15 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Toggle Switch Breakers Hum ...... what kind of ignition system are you using, never seen a setup like that before? Oh, and what is an AUX MASTER? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com>
Subject: Re: Toggle Switch Breakers
Date: Feb 10, 2006
Sorry about the several emails stating basicly the same thing but kept getting a undeliverable response from matronics when I sent them. Randy ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brinker" <brinker@cox-internet.com> Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 2:51 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Toggle Switch Breakers > > David that is a nice clean wiring set up, you have given me some > idea's. What type (gauge,size) of aluminum angle are you using to mount > your switches in ? > > Randy > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: David McNeill > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:58 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Toggle Switch Breakers > > > I am using standard magnetos initially as provided by Lycoming. What looks > like a breaker (red tip) is actually a spring loaded switch to ground the > starter relay for starting. The two breakers (left and right mag) are > mounted upside down so that "down is off" actually grounds the mags. > Lastly > because the GRT EIS 6000 (Chelton version) displays only one RPM at a time > one must select the mag to use for RPM display. > > BTW the no ignition key setup is common in twin Cessnas. By passing the > standard ignition key is a 5 second procedure to snip two mag wires and > jumper temporarily the starter relay to ground. > > Regards the aux master. This is a breaker that grounds the master > contactor > for the second battery. so that either or both can be used to start the > aircraft. I am using twin Odyssey 680s, which will provide 1360a for the > first five seconds. Normal operation will use one battery with the second > used to initialize the avionics and as emergency backup in flight. > > If at any time the aux battery is necessary to start the aircraft, the > avionics can be kept off line by pulling individual breakers. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Sam Marlow > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 9:15 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Toggle Switch Breakers > > > Hum ...... what kind of ignition system are you using, never seen a setup > like that before? Oh, and what is an AUX MASTER? > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Toggle Switch Breakers
Date: Feb 10, 2006
I drilled the standard crossmember and drilled corresponding holes in the bus bar which is copper .125 x .5 x length. I believe I bought the copper in 24" lengths. If additional rigidity is desired one could rivet an aluminum angle along the bottom end of the crossmember. My panel is .090 thickness and powder coated. One additional though on the angle. Don't put it in where it will interfere with the throttle quadrant etc. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 10, 2006
Subject: Re: Toggle Switch Breakers
Michael Thnks for lookinging out for us dial-up guys. By the way how do you change a 1 MB picture into a 50k picture? Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Changing Picture Size Was: Toggle Switch Breakers
Date: Feb 10, 2006
Bob, lot of ways but the easiest is to let your email software handle it. I use Outlook 2003 and anytime you attach a picture, it gives you an option to cut them to small, medium, or large resolution for email purposes. When I send a 1meg jpg file using the large setting for clarity, it comes through at about 300kb. On small, it will take it way down maybe less than 50k. For most purposes, the small setting works fine. Bill S _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of NYTerminat(at)aol.com Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 7:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Toggle Switch Breakers Michael Thnks for lookinging out for us dial-up guys. By the way how do you change a 1 MB picture into a 50k picture? Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 10, 2006
From: Jim Beyer <fehdxl(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Toggle Switch Breakers
Bob, I am very happy with some freeware called IrfanView ( http://www.irfanview.com/). One of the things I like best is its ability to convert and rename pictures in a batch. -Jim On 2/10/06, NYTerminat(at)aol.com wrote: > By the way how do you change a 1 MB picture into a 50k picture? Bob > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Toggle Switch Breakers - reducing picture file size
Date: Feb 10, 2006
Bob, I've had luck with two methods to shrink the size of a picture file. One is to open the picture with an editing program, select SAVE AS and usually in that process there is an advanced or properties option that will allow you to change the format and quality of the picture. The other option, and easier, is to use Microsoft Outlook to send the e-mail You can insert a picture in the e-mail and Outlook seems to automatically convert it to a reasonable e-mail size. I've heard AOL has a similar setup. Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of NYTerminat(at)aol.com Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 8:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Toggle Switch Breakers Michael Thnks for lookinging out for us dial-up guys. By the way how do you change a 1 MB picture into a 50k picture? Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2006
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Edge distance on WD-1002 - Steel firewall fittings
There was a discussion on the edge distance on steel firewall fittings WD-1002 some time ago. I am interested to know what kind of edge distance people have been getting after drilling them. Thanks Niko 40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Edge distance on WD-1002 - Steel firewall fittings
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2006
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Transition Training
Just got back from Transition Training at Van's. Everything out there was beautiful for the trip, except it was a bit sunny for me. ;) Got my insurance-required 5 hours of Transition training and did a write-up here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/misc/TransitionTraining/index.html Also have some Taxi Testing photos on my site as well from mid-week. The DAR comes tomorrow. Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: No Charge Transition Ballast
Date: Feb 11, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
As Tim has posted, I will gladly offer my portly 249 pounds as ballast to anyone interested in RV-10 Transition Training here at KUAO or KSPB. Mike Seager was a true pleasure, Tim brought beautiful sunny skies to the Pacific NorthWet. He even brought realistic cross winds and turbulence to the drill. Now in defense of the ride, I had moved from the Right Rear Seat (leather covered) for the previous 5 hours, to the Left Rear Seat (a beautiful fabric covered replacement). Being too comfortable and lulled into complacency with Tim's great stick work during the morning and previous two sessions, I decided not to reconnect the shoulder harnesses upon my shift to the left seat, so as to get better shots of the Yugo dash and Mike's smile on Tim's performance. If you want the Tim "E" Ride, strap up the harnesses and stay seated till it returns to the gate. Also consider finish covering of the bolt and nut combination to secure the ceiling mounted Pilot and Co-pilot shoulder harnesses. As a former Pilot Examiner for over 20 years, I can attest to the smooth, calming style and professional, comprehensive instruction that Mike provides. You will leave knowing that your years of hard work and the investment into the RV-10 are well worth it. And Ray, you got me beat on quality interior shots from Scott's transition training. I still get a grin at the MX20 showing Scott was not "Dead On Centerline" when the thrill of the throttle began. John - $00.02 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: elevator attach
Date: Feb 11, 2006
I'm confused. Just started emp attach process after a wonderful 102 hours on the tailcone. Page 11-2 revision 1, step 3, for initial temp install of elevators to HS. It says to attach the Elevators per Fig 3, using hardware in Detail A. Ok, I've done that. But I can't do Detail B yet because I haven't drilled those holes. That step is 11-3 Step 2. So question #1 is when do I install the Detail B hardware? If it's after Pg 11-3 that seems very out of sequence for these normally well-laid plans, especially since it's not referenced later. Next, Step 3 also says the elevators should not contact the upper or lower flanges of the HS. If I pivot the elevator all the way up or all the way down, of course it contact the HS because there's no control system holding it back yet, and the cutout area on the HS main spar is just for a static stop, it seems. So question #2 is what should be limiting elevator travel at this point? So if I'm not supposed to contact the HS, and there's no control system in place limiting movement/travel, then question #3 is what defines my full up/ full down travel? Rob Wright #392 (also awaiting VS doubler - rivets are drilled! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2006
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: GRT EIS tip for RV-10 fuel Floats
I wanted to pass along this tip so that those of you with the same EIS as me (the GRT EIS6000 that is for the Chelton) don't have to have the same issue I had....minor, but inconvenient. When you set up your EIS, you set it to read each aux input in either a forward or reverse direction. By default, my unit was set to forward. I did my fuel tank calibration, and my fuel quantities counted down while filling the tanks. I didn't fully understand what the readings were supposed to be doing, but when I got done I did. As it turns out, you'll want to have the EIS set to reverse sensing before you start the calibration. This is all in regards to using the Van's float sensors. I don't know what capacitance sensors would do. Also, there's a tip on doing the calibration so that you're not stuck like I am with 2 full tanks and nowhere to put the gas when you do the cal. Fill one tank at a time, and when you're done with the first tank, drain the gas and use it to fill the other side. Then if it all comes out, you're done, and if it doesn't, just start over on the first. Hope that saves some time and hassle... -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2006
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Congratulations Tim! I can still only dream . . . Ron 187 fuse -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Monday, 13 February 2006 11:56 AM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2006
From: greerdans(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Congratulations Tim! I hope to get down to Sun-N-Fun to get a look at your 10. When you know your schedule let us know. Enjoy flying off the hours. George -----Original Message----- From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 [Image removed] ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 12, 2006
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Thanks for sharing the journey (both literally and figurative). John Cox - KUAO -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 5:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
From: "Rick S." <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 12, 2006
Congrats Tim!! No Munchkin stowaways were there? :P -------- Rick S. RV-10 40185 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11746#11746 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 12, 2006
Tim, It's a GREAT day when another RV-10 takes to the skies!! Congratulations to you, your wife and kids. We look forward to the day when we can post great news such as this. Thanks for all your hard work in helping make the building experience easier for all of us. Dave Hertner ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Plans Section 26 and 29 - dimpling
From: "Rick S." <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Feb 12, 2006
Jeez...I finished these this week and it was a pain. [Rolling Eyes] I Csunk the middle verticle row, used the squeezer on the top row then rounded my pop rivet die so it fit in the flange for the bottom. turned out OK, the one rivet at the rear spar I used a rivet and hit it with a sucide rivet set with a female dimple die on the back side held in vise grips...worked but I would not want to chance that method to often for fear of slipping off and poking a new hole. [Shocked] What about the one lower hole left undimpled in the rib just aft of that? I could not find where that was to get dimpled although it has to. For you guys doing these ribs now, drill and dimple them before you install them, it will save you a ton of time. -------- Rick S. RV-10 40185 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11749#11749 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 12, 2006
Tim, Congratulations! Sounds like the ideal first flights. Your progress and website have been an inspiration and invaluable source, just please don't stop now! Marcus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 12, 2006
Tim, definite congratulations. I'm just now only done with the tailcone and feel like I see light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks for keeping me, and I'm sure all of us, enlightened and focused! Rob #392 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cram" <johncram(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Tim, from a future builder just wanted to let u know how much I have enjoyed keeping up with ur project. Great Job. John Cram ----- Original Message ----- From: Tim Olson<mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Congratulations! I envy you. Your paint scheme looks very nice too. rob kermanj rv10es(at)earthlink.net On Feb 12, 2006, at 8:26 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 > N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. > > The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked > me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite > difference > from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was > at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely > hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron > trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the > airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd > that had come in support today. > > I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently > back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just > the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time > just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on > it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't > have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS > for the flight (no mph for this guy). > > The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot > it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport > chosen on the EFIS. > > I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the > instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants > for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. > > Just wanted to pass on the news! > Tim > > -- > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > <86560148609_01_BG.jpg> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Congratulations Tim on your great accomplishment. I can only imagine the sense of pride you and your family must feel. With all the time you have spent on building and maintaining your web site I imagine your wife has a big RV grin on her face just knowing that she may have you back available more often. She seems like a very supportive wife, based on all of your pictures. Thanks for sharing with all of us your journey, it really has help me, and I'm sure many others, at times as I progress through my building. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jack Sargeant" <k5wiv(at)amsat.org>
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Congratulations Tim, from a wana-be 10 builder. I won't be at SnF, but plan to spend the whole week at AirVenture this year and to give every 10 there a close inspection. Hope to wee you there. Jack & Cecilia Sargeant 1127 Patricia St. Wichita, KS 67208-2642 316/682-5268 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: To/From Avionics Question
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
The GPS can also give to/from flag indications when flying to a GPS waypoint, just like a VOR. Jeremy P. Harris Integrated Missile Defense BMDS Architectures Lab The Boeing Company Washington, DC Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T Cell: (703) 627-6500 Fax: (703) 414-6372 MC: 793C-G007 Office: 825B -----Original Message----- From: n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net [mailto:n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net] Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 3:50 PM Subject: RV10-List: To/From Avionics Question Can someone tell me what the "+To" and "+From" wires from a nav radio actually do? What data do they send? I have them on my SL30 and it would seem like it sends data that states you are TO or FROM a VOR, but I have the same outputs on my GX60 which is a IFR certified GPS/Comm and I would not expect it on that unit if they were relating to a VOR. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Mike Kraus ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Congratulations. When I get back to MN I will pay you a visit and oooo and ah ah ah over your new bird. Gary -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Tim, Congratulations! Joe "Zack" Czachorowski -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11808#11808 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Awesome!!! That's great news Tim. And WOW, you really did fly through the last of the building/final assembly stage. Probably why we haven't heard much from you in the last couple weeks. Anyway, we can all hope you continue on with discussions on the lists. Your knowledge and instruction has definitely been a huge help to me!!! Congratulations, Bill Britton RV-10 #40137 Tailcone ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 > Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 > N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. > > The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked > me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference > from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at > 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely > hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron > trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the > airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd > that had come in support today. > > I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently > back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just > the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time > just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on > it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't > have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS > for the flight (no mph for this guy). > > The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot > it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport > chosen on the EFIS. > > I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the > instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants > for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. > > Just wanted to pass on the news! > Tim > > -- > Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Congrats on the flight. Love your web site and go there every day. Bob K Forward fuselage top skin 40125 which will be N104BK -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Congratulations Tim. I'm amazed at how fast things come together in the end. How many hours did you get for a flyoff and were there any details you can share on the DAR inspection? Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Congratulations Tim! Bob #40105 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 7:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead Lights
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
Congratulations Tim!! I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For those of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights over the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? As an aside, I am giving very serious thought to installing an armrest ('98 Cadillac DeVille armrest measures very nicely) between the rear seats. It looks like it can easily be attached to the angle of the seat backs and rotate up/down. The cup holder and space within would be very useful. I think passengers can only sit for so long with their hands in their lap. I'll keep you posted on the feasibility. Prices so far from junk yards are $125 plus shipping. One may fit between the front seats as well, don't know yet. Thank You Rick Conti Senior Engineering Manager The Boeing Company office: 703 - 414 - 6141 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead Lights
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I ran my wires for the top canopy in the lip by the windshield. I tack glued them in place and then used epoxy filler to fill over it to create a better looking pillar from the inside. It turn out great. I installed two red LED swivel lights from Stein Air in the roof. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Lights Congratulations Tim!! I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For those of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights over the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? As an aside, I am giving very serious thought to installing an armrest ('98 Cadillac DeVille armrest measures very nicely) between the rear seats. It looks like it can easily be attached to the angle of the seat backs and rotate up/down. The cup holder and space within would be very useful. I think passengers can only sit for so long with their hands in their lap. I'll keep you posted on the feasibility. Prices so far from junk yards are $125 plus shipping. One may fit between the front seats as well, don't know yet. Thank You Rick Conti Senior Engineering Manager The Boeing Company office: 703 - 414 - 6141 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Overhead Lights
Do you have pic? Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > > I ran my wires for the top canopy in the lip by the windshield. >I tack glued them in place and then used epoxy filler to fill over it to >create a better looking pillar from the inside. It turn out great. I >installed two red LED swivel lights from Stein Air in the roof. > >Thank You >Ray Doerr >40250 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick >Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:51 AM >To: RV 10 >Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Lights > > >Congratulations Tim!! > >I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For those >of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and >what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know >the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights over >the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? > >As an aside, I am giving very serious thought to installing an armrest >('98 Cadillac DeVille armrest measures very nicely) between the rear >seats. It looks like it can easily be attached to the angle of the seat >backs and rotate up/down. The cup holder and space within would be very >useful. I think passengers can only sit for so long with their hands in >their lap. I'll keep you posted on the feasibility. Prices so far from >junk yards are $125 plus shipping. One may fit between the front seats >as well, don't know yet. > >Thank You >Rick Conti >Senior Engineering Manager >The Boeing Company > office: 703 - 414 - 6141 >blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead Lights
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com>
How did you attached the lights? Thank You Rick Conti office: 703-414-6141 cell: 571-215-6134 -----Original Message----- From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] [mailto:Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com] Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 1:51 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Lights I ran my wires for the top canopy in the lip by the windshield. I tack glued them in place and then used epoxy filler to fill over it to create a better looking pillar from the inside. It turn out great. I installed two red LED swivel lights from Stein Air in the roof. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Lights Congratulations Tim!! I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For those of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights over the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? As an aside, I am giving very serious thought to installing an armrest ('98 Cadillac DeVille armrest measures very nicely) between the rear seats. It looks like it can easily be attached to the angle of the seat backs and rotate up/down. The cup holder and space within would be very useful. I think passengers can only sit for so long with their hands in their lap. I'll keep you posted on the feasibility. Prices so far from junk yards are $125 plus shipping. One may fit between the front seats as well, don't know yet. Thank You Rick Conti Senior Engineering Manager The Boeing Company office: 703 - 414 - 6141 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead Lights
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
They aren't the greatest but they are all I had with me at work. You can see the three wires coming out of the bottom by the front pillar on the passenger side. The wires run up on the inside to the center of the canopy and then I drilled a tiny hole for then to run into the foam which is in the top lid and then they come out the 1 =BD" holes I drilled on the inside top. I removed about =BD" of the foam and then glassed in the bottom again. This will allow the swivel eyeball to move freely. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Marlow Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 2:15 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Overhead Lights Do you have pic? Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: I ran my wires for the top canopy in the lip by the windshield. I tack glued them in place and then used epoxy filler to fill over it to create a better looking pillar from the inside. It turn out great. I installed two red LED swivel lights from Stein Air in the roof. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Lights Congratulations Tim!! I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For those of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights over the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? As an aside, I am giving very serious thought to installing an armrest ('98 Cadillac DeVille armrest measures very nicely) between the rear seats. It looks like it can easily be attached to the angle of the seat backs and rotate up/down. The cup holder and space within would be very useful. I think passengers can only sit for so long with their hands in their lap. I'll keep you posted on the feasibility. Prices so far from junk yards are $125 plus shipping. One may fit between the front seats as well, don't know yet. Thank You Rick Conti Senior Engineering Manager The Boeing Company office: 703 - 414 - 6141 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead Lights
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I plan on creating a hard backing that my material will glue to and the lights will mount to it. This is going to cover the top over the pilot and copilot side to cover the bolts for the doors and run aft to where the roof height increase 1". Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 2:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Lights How did you attached the lights? Thank You Rick Conti office: 703-414-6141 cell: 571-215-6134 -----Original Message----- From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] [mailto:Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com] Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 1:51 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Lights I ran my wires for the top canopy in the lip by the windshield. I tack glued them in place and then used epoxy filler to fill over it to create a better looking pillar from the inside. It turn out great. I installed two red LED swivel lights from Stein Air in the roof. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:51 AM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Lights Congratulations Tim!! I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For those of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights over the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? As an aside, I am giving very serious thought to installing an armrest ('98 Cadillac DeVille armrest measures very nicely) between the rear seats. It looks like it can easily be attached to the angle of the seat backs and rotate up/down. The cup holder and space within would be very useful. I think passengers can only sit for so long with their hands in their lap. I'll keep you posted on the feasibility. Prices so far from junk yards are $125 plus shipping. One may fit between the front seats as well, don't know yet. Thank You Rick Conti Senior Engineering Manager The Boeing Company office: 703 - 414 - 6141 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Overhead Lights
Date: Feb 13, 2006
How about running the wires through the windshield brace steel tube at the front canopy. Will that work? rob kermanj rv10es(at)earthlink.net On Feb 13, 2006, at 3:40 PM, Conti, Rick wrote: > > How did you attached the lights? > > Thank You > Rick Conti > office: 703-414-6141 > cell: 571-215-6134 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] [mailto:Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com] > Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 1:51 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Lights > > > > I ran my wires for the top canopy in the lip by the windshield. > I tack glued them in place and then used epoxy filler to fill over > it to > create a better looking pillar from the inside. It turn out great. I > installed two red LED swivel lights from Stein Air in the roof. > > Thank You > Ray Doerr > 40250 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick > Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 10:51 AM > To: RV 10 > Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Lights > > > Congratulations Tim!! > > I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For > those > of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and > what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know > the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights > over > the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? > > As an aside, I am giving very serious thought to installing an armrest > ('98 Cadillac DeVille armrest measures very nicely) between the rear > seats. It looks like it can easily be attached to the angle of the > seat > backs and rotate up/down. The cup holder and space within would be > very > useful. I think passengers can only sit for so long with their > hands in > their lap. I'll keep you posted on the feasibility. Prices so far > from > junk yards are $125 plus shipping. One may fit between the front > seats > as well, don't know yet. > > Thank You > Rick Conti > Senior Engineering Manager > The Boeing Company > office: 703 - 414 - 6141 > blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org>
Subject: Painting
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Anyone on the list planning to paint their -10? I'm currently debating it and am wondering what others thought. I'm not considering it as a way to save money but rather as a "fun" challenge. Of course the wife thinks I'm nuts and I probably am. Still, I'm wondering if there are some people on our list that have painted a previous RV- project and would like to pass on their opinions. FWIW - a guy in our EAA chapter just finished his -7 which he painted himself in a 4 color military scheme. He was really happy with the way it turned out but said painting was a LONG and TEDIOUS process and he'd probably elect to forgo it if he ever does another project. -Brian N211BD #40497 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Painting
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Brian, Check Tim Olsen's web site. He painted his -10 and it looks great! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: Painting
Date: Feb 13, 2006
> Anyone on the list planning to paint their -10? I'm currently debating it > and am wondering what others thought. I'm not considering it as a way to > save money but rather as a "fun" challenge. Of course the wife thinks I'm > nuts and I probably am. Still, I'm wondering if there are some people on > our list that have painted a previous RV- project and > would like to pass on their opinions. > > FWIW - a guy in our EAA chapter just finished his -7 which he painted > himself in a 4 color military scheme. He was really happy with the way it > turned out but said painting was a LONG and TEDIOUS process and he'd > probably elect to forgo it if he ever does another project. You know, I painted my RV-8 and didn't think it was especially long and tedious compared to other stages of the construction. Overall I'm glad I did it and plan to repeat the process for the RV-3 I'm currently building. If you're curious, my RV-8 paint experience is detailed here... http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Paint.htm Randy Lervold www.rv-3.com www.rv-8.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Painting
Date: Feb 13, 2006
You built the rest of the plane - why not paint it? I painted my RV-8A, I'll paint my RV-10. Paint set up was a make shift paint booth in the hanger, wings and empennage painted off the fuselage (highly recommended as you can rotate the wings while painting). I used PPG Concept base coat, clear coat. Highly recommended for the amateur painter - like me. I did a hard paint scheme that had a pearl yellow as the dominant color. The RV-10 will NOT have this color!! It does take time. I did one 400 grit wet sanding of the primer before top coat. The nice to have fiberglass touches like filling in the rib ends of the control surfaces and wing tips are the top time killers. Carl Froehlich -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 5:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Painting Anyone on the list planning to paint their -10? I'm currently debating it and am wondering what others thought. I'm not considering it as a way to save money but rather as a "fun" challenge. Of course the wife thinks I'm nuts and I probably am. Still, I'm wondering if there are some people on our list that have painted a previous RV- project and would like to pass on their opinions. FWIW - a guy in our EAA chapter just finished his -7 which he painted himself in a 4 color military scheme. He was really happy with the way it turned out but said painting was a LONG and TEDIOUS process and he'd probably elect to forgo it if he ever does another project. -Brian N211BD #40497 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Edge distance on WD-1002 - Steel firewall fittings
Thanks for the reply Rick. This is an area where I was also happy I had the Cogsdill deburring tool. My edge distances are not as good as yours. They vary between 1.0 to 1.5 hole diameters. I sent Vans an email they requested pictures Niko ----- Original Message ---- From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 4:50:59 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Edge distance on WD-1002 - Steel firewall fittings Niko, I have just about 1.50 hole distance, not quite 2 hole distance. Last check with Vans was that is was OK...others may have different ideas but the rivet will shear way before that piece of steel breaks out...this is one area the Cogsdill deburring tool really shined. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Painting
The tedious and long part doesn't bother me...it's having the right place to do it. Tim had a paint booth available, even room for a properly filtered homemade booth would be good. Make sure you use intrinsically safe electrical motors on your ventilation fans. Careful of the good ol' EPA and airport restrictions if your heading to the hangar to paint. Check with local autobody shops..they may have the facility for you to use off hours..just get the prep done at home and plan on a few good (read long) nights in the booth. It will make a difference in the quality of your final product. Aircraft/automotive paint can be downright lethal if the right breathing and eye protection are not used....most people forget that the eyes will absorb dangerous levels of toxins when you get to concentration levels that are reached during spray painting. HVLP has lowered the levels in parts per million but you will still need a full face fresh air supplied respirator. Lastly...make sure your health is good enough to sustain extended time in a respirator. The fed's require employers to have their employees tested to make sure they can function safely in the masks. Sorry for the ramble, safety engineer by profession seeping through. Rick S. 40185 Fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Tim (and the other 25 flying!), can you guys share your POH's? Would certainly help all concerned to see the various POH's out there, with the goal of keep refining them based on lessons learned. Thanks - Grumpy #40404 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Painting
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Brian, I painted my RV8 3 times. The first 2 times with Dupont Imron and the last with PPG Concept. I like the PPG products better. They flow much better than Imron. I used base coat/clear coat on all three. Definitely the way to go for a beginner. You should paint it if you can. It is a very messy, time consuming, and back breaking work but it is also very rewarding. Do it if you can. Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=11998#11998 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 13, 2006
Subject: gascolator
I'm trying to find a gascolator that has remote cable operation for the drain. Anyone found one that works on the -10 with IO-540? Tim, what did you use?? grumpy #40404 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 14, 2006
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 9:04 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Way to go Tim!! Hopefully the GRT panel displayed next to yours at OSH 2005 will also fly later this spring. Russ Daves ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com>
Subject: Parking Brake Valve
Date: Feb 14, 2006
Gentlemen - I have a Matco PV-1 Parking Brake Valve from Van's that I have decided not to use. New, in the box, never been mounted. $110 delivered. Neal (at) appaero (dot) com Neal (dot) george (at) Maxwell (do) af (dot) mil 244 Andrews Street Maxwell AFB, AL 36113 Home - 334-262-8993 Cell - 334-546-2033 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net>
Subject: visors
Date: Feb 14, 2006
Has anybody come up with a good way of installing sun visors? ....Maybe they are just not necessary in the RV 10 but I sure use them a lot in my C-150 so it seems likely I will want them. I will be installing my roof section in a couple of weeks and got to thinking about this just because I have been looking at that thing.....I cant wait to get it out of my way and on the airplane where it belongs. Cheers... Evan Johnson www.evansaviationproducts.com (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2006
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Vertical Stab SB - VS Parts
With the recently released SB on the VS, I got to thinking about what to do. I didn't know if I wanted to drill rivets on the new paint and try to repair it, or if I should just rebuild the whole thing. Being the first part a builder builds, I know I had the nose rib ding, and another ding on the rear from the rivet gun, more on the spar. Talking to a couple other builders, we pondered the cost of a VS. Today I gathered the remaining items I needed on a list to find the total cost, which you'll see below is $222.48. (You may have to buy the small new doubler plate...would be dirt cheap) I'm not sure if I'll repair or rebuild. The benefits of the rebuild are that I have better skills than before, and I can build and paint the new VS and then swap it in when I'm ready in a very short time. The benefit of the repair is the cost. Tom from Van's said they didn't even have to repaint theirs, but I would imagine that most builders would end up spot repairing the rivets. I'm more worried about what would happen if I made a mistake on the repair. It would take me a bit longer to fix, and if I damaged something, I'd be downed for a couple weeks until I could repair or rebuild. Tim ------------------------------------------------------ Vertical Stab Parts $79.20 VS-1001 Skin $13.91 VS-1002 Front Spar $22.50 VS-1003 Rear Spar $8.45 VS-1004 Bottom Inspar Rib $5.33 VS-1005 Bottom Nose Rib $6.61 VS-1006 Top Rib $6.99 VS-1007 Middle Inspar Rib $15.00 VS-1008 Rear Spar Doubler $25.75 VS-1009 VS Tip Fairing $4.95 VS-1010 Bottom Rudder Hinge Bracket $4.00 VS-1011 Middle Rudder Hinge Bracket $3.90 VS-1012 Top Rudder Hinge Bracket $5.24 VS-1013 Middle Nose Rib $15.40 VS-1014 Rear Spar Cap (**2 Req) $1.75 VS-1015 Doubler FREE VS-1017 Doubler from SB-06-2-3 $3.50 R-1007 Rudder Stop $222.48 Total -- Tim Olson -- Flying RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 02/13/06
Date: Feb 14, 2006
I just joined yesterday. Ken Scott took my wife and I up in the RV-10 last Saturday and we are planning to order the kit this fall. Until then, is there an RV-10 builder in the greater Seattle area that I can connect with to see his project and assist? Skip Feher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Christopher Stanley" <chris(at)christopherstanley.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 02/13/06
Date: Feb 14, 2006
Van's keeps a list of all the RV-10 owners by city and state. They'll send you a copy if you ask. Do not post Christopher Stanley <http://www.christopherstanley.com/> www.christopherstanley.com Christopher Stanley & Associates, P.C. 1104 Rock Street Georgetown, Texas 78626 Phone: (512) 869-7566 Fax: (512) 869-8312 NOTICE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is legally privileged and confidential, intended for the use of the individual(s) or entities listed above. If the reader of this electronic mail message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, or copy of this electronic mail message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail message in error, please immediately notify us by telephone and destroy this message. Thank you for your consideration. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 11:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 02/13/06 I just joined yesterday. Ken Scott took my wife and I up in the RV-10 last Saturday and we are planning to order the kit this fall. Until then, is there an RV-10 builder in the greater Seattle area that I can connect with to see his project and assist? Skip Feher ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Vertical Stab SB - VS Parts
Date: Feb 14, 2006
My belief would be you should keep flying and rebuild another for the reasons you spoke of. Getting those monkeys off my back are on my mind, but you have a great opportunity and go ahead and admit it...you are already missing the building....another plane is on your horizon. >From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Vertical Stab SB - VS Parts >Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 11:15:01 -0600 > > >With the recently released SB on the VS, I got to thinking >about what to do. I didn't know if I wanted to drill rivets >on the new paint and try to repair it, or if I should just >rebuild the whole thing. Being the first part a builder >builds, I know I had the nose rib ding, and another ding >on the rear from the rivet gun, more on the spar. Talking >to a couple other builders, we pondered the cost of a VS. > >Today I gathered the remaining items I needed on a list >to find the total cost, which you'll see below is $222.48. >(You may have to buy the small new doubler plate...would >be dirt cheap) > >I'm not sure if I'll repair or rebuild. The benefits of >the rebuild are that I have better skills than before, >and I can build and paint the new VS and then swap it in >when I'm ready in a very short time. The benefit of >the repair is the cost. Tom from Van's said they >didn't even have to repaint theirs, but I would imagine >that most builders would end up spot repairing the rivets. >I'm more worried about what would happen if I made a mistake >on the repair. It would take me a bit longer to fix, and if >I damaged something, I'd be downed for a couple weeks >until I could repair or rebuild. > >Tim >------------------------------------------------------ > >Vertical Stab Parts > >$79.20 VS-1001 Skin >$13.91 VS-1002 Front Spar >$22.50 VS-1003 Rear Spar >$8.45 VS-1004 Bottom Inspar Rib >$5.33 VS-1005 Bottom Nose Rib >$6.61 VS-1006 Top Rib >$6.99 VS-1007 Middle Inspar Rib >$15.00 VS-1008 Rear Spar Doubler >$25.75 VS-1009 VS Tip Fairing >$4.95 VS-1010 Bottom Rudder Hinge Bracket >$4.00 VS-1011 Middle Rudder Hinge Bracket >$3.90 VS-1012 Top Rudder Hinge Bracket >$5.24 VS-1013 Middle Nose Rib >$15.40 VS-1014 Rear Spar Cap (**2 Req) >$1.75 VS-1015 Doubler >FREE VS-1017 Doubler from SB-06-2-3 >$3.50 R-1007 Rudder Stop >$222.48 Total > >-- >Tim Olson -- Flying RV-10 >#40170 > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Vertical Stab SB - VS Parts
Date: Feb 14, 2006
Tim and all, FWIW, I just finished the service bulletin on the VS. Took 2.5 hours and was easy mainly because the VS was laying on a table in front of me and not on the plane, ( hadn't been mounted yet ). I removed the suggested rivets from the end rib and also the skin to spar flange rivets on one side to gain good access. This enabled me to fold the skin back somewhat. Riveting the doubler and the hinge was accomplished with a squeezer. Remaining rivets were replaced also with a sqeezer. I'm sure some touch up will be required to the paint and I would assume that working on a ladder with the VS attached to the plane will present a challenge but I'm guessing it's less of a pain than removing and replacing the entire VS. John Hasbrouck #40264 wings done, fuse on order ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Engine Run-in
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Tim, what was the advice (if any) on your engine run-in period? John. #40315 fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine Run-in
Date: Feb 14, 2006
From: "Joe Trampota" <jtrampota(at)eci2fly.com>
John.... Go to www.eci2fly.com and under the technical data area on the homepage there is a comprehensive engine break-in / run in publication... Joe ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 4:14 PM Subject: RV10-List: Engine Run-in Tim, what was the advice (if any) on your engine run-in period? John. #40315 fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2006
From: "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Vertical Stab SB - VS Parts
Tim, I rebuilt my vertical for reasons other than the SB a while back. Being the first piece I made, It had a few dings. I built the second in about 2 days and It looks so much better than the first. $200 and two days, I'd build a new one!! Mark (40016) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2006
From: bruce breckenridge <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Videos
I've watched your video twice today! So exciting! Loved the commentary about "never" getting you down!! Thanks for sharing the excitement. We all get such a boost from one another, and this is one heckofa special moment. Well done Tim. Bruce 40018 'vators ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Hooker 5-point harnesses
Date: Feb 14, 2006
Over on the VAF website they've got a 30% group buy going on for the hooker 5-point harnesses. While I'm not quite finished with the tailcone yet it's kinda hard to pass on this if they will work. Can anybody a little further along in the build, or any flyers, tell me if these will work in the -10. Front and back or just front??? Any Mods required to install them??? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Bill Britton RV-10 tailcone/ revisiting VS for the SB #40137 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Hooker 5-point harnesses
Date: Feb 14, 2006
Valentine's Day Special bulletin: If you ever have the need to fly a special lady and a function and are time crunched for changing clothes, if she's wearing a skirt/dress you may want to rethink 5-pt harnesses for your cross-country cruiser and leave the 5-pts to the hard aerobatic guys. Of course you could always install a 4-pt or shoulder/lap belt combo on that side so you can do your acro solo. Rob #392 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: Hooker 5-point harnesses Over on the VAF website they've got a 30% group buy going on for the hooker 5-point harnesses. While I'm not quite finished with the tailcone yet it's kinda hard to pass on this if they will work. Can anybody a little further along in the build, or any flyers, tell me if these will work in the -10. Front and back or just front??? Any Mods required to install them??? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Bill Britton RV-10 tailcone/ revisiting VS for the SB #40137 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006
Date: Feb 14, 2006
A big, hugh, hearty CONGRATULATIONS is due to you! You built it! It flies! And all along the way you have provided tremendous value to the rest of us following in your footsteps. I am truly excited for you and hope you and your family get years of safe enjoyment out of your new baby. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA Installing QB fuse canopy -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 8:26 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 flies - 2/12/2006 Today was my lucky day. I have to pass on the news that RV-10 N104CD took to the air for it's first flight this afternoon. The takeoff was amazing, and once off the ground that IO-540 kicked me in the pants with it's acceleration. This was a definite difference from what I saw with N220RV. Within what seemed like seconds I was at 3500' AGL, as I was climbing at 2200 fpm. It flew absolutely hands-off, with no need for aileron or rudder trim, although aileron trim is installed on the plane. I flew some lazy circles around the airport and then decided that I needed to show my face to the crowd that had come in support today. I set up for my first landing, slowed it down and put her gently back on the runway for a completely non-eventful landing, just the way it should be. I had to take it back up one more time just to waste the rest of the daylight, and I put over an hour on it for the day. There's no wheel pants on it yet, so I don't have any good speed numbers for you, but I know I was over 150 KTS for the flight (no mph for this guy). The Chelton system worked great, and when I turned on the Autopilot it flew using both GPSS and GPSV and tracked a course to the airport chosen on the EFIS. I'll now have to spend the next few hours getting some of the instrument calibrations perfected, and finishing up those wheel pants for our upcoming trip to Sun-N-Fun in Florida. Just wanted to pass on the news! Tim -- Tim Olson -- RV-10 #40170 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Engine alternative?
Date: Feb 14, 2006
You have heard correct. I am planning on putting an alternative engine into the 10. I am going with the Cosmo 20B fuel injected, no turbos, and only planning on spinning it at 6000 RPM. Bob K Attaching tail cone this weekend. 40125, N104BK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Serani" <sms(at)instakey.com>
Subject: Hooker 5-point harnesses
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Bill - I just this past weekend installed my set of Hooker Harnesses. Piece of cake! 5 points for the rear and 4 points for the front. Took a grand total of an hour o install all sets. Scott M. Serani, 40341 Engine just installed -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 7:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: Hooker 5-point harnesses Over on the VAF website they've got a 30% group buy going on for the hooker 5-point harnesses. While I'm not quite finished with the tailcone yet it's kinda hard to pass on this if they will work. Can anybody a little further along in the build, or any flyers, tell me if these will work in the -10. Front and back or just front??? Any Mods required to install them??? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Bill Britton RV-10 tailcone/ revisiting VS for the SB #40137 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Propeller
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Hello everyone. Just for your information: I ordered my prop from van on Dec 1, 2005 and receive it on 2/12/06. rob kermanj rv10es(at)earthlink.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: defrosters
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Has anyone installed or thought about installing a defroster system? I keep thing about running 2' hoses up to each side of the glare shield. Maybe some of you who have been flying for awhile, Vic, could tell me if you think it's necessary. Nothing can give you a bad hair day quicker than coming in IFR, low ceilings and you can't see out the front window!! Wayne Edgerton # 40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Subject: Re: defrosters
CC: N577JT(at)aol.com I am flying a 7 with 2 computer cooling fans in the glare shield to serve as defog fans.....works great and have needed them several times. Doing the same on the 10. Doug 40372 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Subject: Re: defrosters
Will have to shoot pics when go to A/P next time. dp ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: defrosters
Date: Feb 15, 2006
From: "Harris, Jeremy P" <jeremy.p.harris(at)boeing.com>
Rick and I installed a defroster on our RV-10 using some tees, vent parts from a Cherokee, and a shutoff valve. There's some pics on our website of the various components. http://jharris.net/Aviation/RV_10.htm Jeremy P. Harris Integrated Missile Defense BMDS Architectures Lab The Boeing Company Washington, DC Desk: (703) 414-6057 Dept: AV-2L-B27T Cell: (703) 627-6500 Fax: (703) 414-6372 MC: 793C-G007 Office: 825B ________________________________ From: Wayne Edgerton [mailto:weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 9:28 AM Subject: RV10-List: defrosters Has anyone installed or thought about installing a defroster system? I keep thing about running 2' hoses up to each side of the glare shield. Maybe some of you who have been flying for awhile, Vic, could tell me if you think it's necessary. Nothing can give you a bad hair day quicker than coming in IFR, low ceilings and you can't see out the front window!! Wayne Edgerton # 40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: defrosters
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Thanks. No big hurry. rob kermanj rv10es(at)earthlink.net On Feb 15, 2006, at 10:42 AM, DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com wrote: > Will have to shoot pics when go to A/P next time. > dp ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Pump/filters
Date: Feb 16, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
G'day all, Is Vans Fuel Injection Fuel Pump and Installation kit for the IO320 or IO360 (PNo 7/7A F.I. PUMP INSTAL) what we use in the -10? Does the pump have sufficient capacity for the IO-540? Vans site indicates "The AIRFLOW PERFORMANCE pump and filter is appropriate for any of the fuel injected Lycoming engine", but just looking for confirmation before I spend more bucks. thanks in advance Ron #187 fuse ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com>
Subject: Priming
Date: Feb 15, 2006
I'm new here so please excuse me if: a. This question has been asked and beat to death already b. If this is not the right forum for this question I will be ordering an RV-10 Empennage Kit this fall. I built an RV-6 empennage many years ago, but now have 3 in our family, hence the decision to build the ten. The part of my RV6 project that I disliked more than I can say was the preparation and subsequent priming of all parts before assembly. Recently, I have been talking with a number of professional airplane types (A&Ps) and many are telling me to forget priming "and just build it". They cite examples such as Cessnas, which were never primed and many are still flying with little, or no corrosion after 50 years. Since I plan to hangar my airplane and I don't live near the ocean, I am inclined to take their advice. But.....it seems all of you guys are priming yours. So......what say you? And if you think priming is really that important, maybe there are some simpler methods or products these days??? Thanks! Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Priming
Date: Feb 15, 2006
As suggested look in the archives, but maybe consider going half way but getting say 75% results. Maybe Alodine only. Less messy, no weight, and less impact on the environment then doing all treatments. JG. >From: <shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Priming >Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:21:27 -0800 > >I'm new here so please excuse me if: > >a. This question has been asked and beat to death already >b. If this is not the right forum for this question > >I will be ordering an RV-10 Empennage Kit this fall. I built an RV-6 >empennage many years ago, but now have 3 in our family, hence the decision >to build the ten. > >The part of my RV6 project that I disliked more than I can say was the >preparation and subsequent priming of all parts before assembly. > >Recently, I have been talking with a number of professional airplane types >(A&Ps) and many are telling me to forget priming "and just build it". They >cite examples such as Cessnas, which were never primed and many are still >flying with little, or no corrosion after 50 years. Since I plan to >hangar my airplane and I don't live near the ocean, I am inclined to take >their advice. But.....it seems all of you guys are priming yours. >So......what say you? And if you think priming is really that important, >maybe there are some simpler methods or products these days??? > >Thanks! > >Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Subject: Overhead Lights
I found some 12V 40 bulb LED lights online that work great for $19.95. I plan on glassing the wires to the canopy along the pilot side windscreen support (where I am also mounting my backlit mag compass). The light will be mounted overhead in the center between the two front seats pointing slightly forward. I'm making a simple fiberglass cover to make it look a bit more cosmetic and to diffuse the light a bit . Not that that's necessary as these lights have a 100 degree field of view and light up the cockpit and panel great - I don't even need backlit gauges or post lights. I am mounting another in the baggage area as well. Here's the link: _http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=OTHER_ (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=OTHER) Jim McGrew 40134 I am at the point where I need to install overhead lighting. For those of you who have completed this step, how did you attach the lights and what "model" lights did you use? Where did you run the wires? I know the LEDs are very popular. I am considering swivel reading lights over the back seats. Also, did anyone install sound proofing in the roof? Thank You Rick Conti Senior Engineering Manager The Boeing Company office: 703 - 414 - 6141 blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Priming
Date: Feb 15, 2006
The priming I did was as follows: After drilling and dimpling I primed the joints being riveted together prior to riveting. Heavy traffic areas such as the floor panels, rear seat decks, and baggage floor I also primed the top surface. The priming helped them hold up real well before final paint. Interior panels which were going to get painted I primed before painting. All the rest I left unprimed. Alcad Aluminum which has not been disturbed, i.e., drilled or dimpled DOES NOT need primer. Russ Daves #40044 (Cabin top installed) ----- Original Message ----- From: shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 5:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Priming I'm new here so please excuse me if: a. This question has been asked and beat to death already b. If this is not the right forum for this question I will be ordering an RV-10 Empennage Kit this fall. I built an RV-6 empennage many years ago, but now have 3 in our family, hence the decision to build the ten. The part of my RV6 project that I disliked more than I can say was the preparation and subsequent priming of all parts before assembly. Recently, I have been talking with a number of professional airplane types (A&Ps) and many are telling me to forget priming "and just build it". They cite examples such as Cessnas, which were never primed and many are still flying with little, or no corrosion after 50 years. Since I plan to hangar my airplane and I don't live near the ocean, I am inclined to take their advice. But.....it seems all of you guys are priming yours. So......what say you? And if you think priming is really that important, maybe there are some simpler methods or products these days??? Thanks! Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org>
Subject: Re: Priming
Date: Feb 15, 2006
I've been using a rattle can self-etching primer (SEM) which seems like a decent compromise between effort and results - very little effort and good, albeit non-Mil Spec, results. FWIW - a recent (if not the latest) RVator touched on this very issue. Do you work in CR? If so, you're welcome to swing by the Spommert Aircraft Production Facility (aka my garage) to check it out for yourself. Just drop me a line off the list. -Brian N211BD #40497 Iowa City, IA ----- Original Message ----- From: shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 5:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: Priming I'm new here so please excuse me if: a. This question has been asked and beat to death already b. If this is not the right forum for this question I will be ordering an RV-10 Empennage Kit this fall. I built an RV-6 empennage many years ago, but now have 3 in our family, hence the decision to build the ten. The part of my RV6 project that I disliked more than I can say was the preparation and subsequent priming of all parts before assembly. Recently, I have been talking with a number of professional airplane types (A&Ps) and many are telling me to forget priming "and just build it". They cite examples such as Cessnas, which were never primed and many are still flying with little, or no corrosion after 50 years. Since I plan to hangar my airplane and I don't live near the ocean, I am inclined to take their advice. But.....it seems all of you guys are priming yours. So......what say you? And if you think priming is really that important, maybe there are some simpler methods or products these days??? Thanks! Skip ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: inertial belt update
Date: Feb 15, 2006
Just an update on the inertial belts from AMSAFE. The belts sizings have been finalized and four belts will be installed in an RV10 in TX in March. My lid is prepared and another set will go into mine when I get to that section. part numbers of the restraints are as follows: Front Seats: 4076-3-451-xxxx Rear Seats: 4076-3-461-xxxx Front Seats w/Extra lap Length: 4076-3-471-xxxx the xxxx is the color code. If you want to look at the airframe preparation go to www.inertialbetls.com . The procedure shows the lid off the aircraft. If you want to install them but already have fixed the lid in place then contact me as there is easy change to the procedure that will minimize the mess of installing the hard points externally. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: additional belt info
Date: Feb 15, 2006
info provided was for the standard buckle. I am installing a set of inertial belts in my Glastar. I will have the airplane at OSH (thursday-saturday) if anyone wants to see the inertial belt or the rotary buckle. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2006
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hooker 5-point harnesses
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote: >A crotch strap can certainly prevent "submarining" in an accident, particularly for kids or others who might be on the small side. "Submarining" is when the body slides down and forward, so you end up with your lap belts around your neck . . . > >TDT >40025 > The definition is certainly true, but I, personally, don't think a 5-point harness is relevant to a 'touring' airplane that's most likely NOT going to be used for aerobatics. Preventing submarining, I guess, is one aspect of the crotch strap, but for me (in my Pitts), the crotch strap is more effective at anchoring the lap belt so it can't move in an arc defined by the lap belt attach points. The shoulder harness would pull the lap belt up without the crotch strap. I can see the possibility, though of having the shoulder harness tight enough that submarining could occur, but having the shoulder harness that tight would be uncomfortable. In sudden deceleration, the torso tends to move forward into the shoulder harness creating a better angle at the lap belt to make submarining less of a possibility. The single most beneficial thing you can do with your restraint system is to anchor the shoulder harnesses as high above the 'shoulder level' as possible. My comments aren't here to dissuade anyone from putting a 5-point harness in their planes ..... just food for thought. Linn doo not archive ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Tailcone longeron hole clearances
Date: Feb 16, 2006
On page 10-13 steps 4, 6, and 7 we are instructed to drill the end holes of each piece to #12's into the longerons. What is the proper, or acceptable hole clearances (to the edge of the longerons)??? Mine range from 1/4" to 1/8 inch on the closest ones. Is this an acceptable distance or do I need to get new longerons and start over??? Pictures are attached. Thanks in advance, Bill Britton RV-10 Tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Tailcone longeron hole clearances
Date: Feb 16, 2006
Without measuring, yours look similar to mine, so it looks like we both followed as per plans. You'll be putting bolts in those #12 holes. Rob #392 Emp Attach _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill and Tami Britton Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tailcone longeron hole clearances On page 10-13 steps 4, 6, and 7 we are instructed to drill the end holes of each piece to #12's into the longerons. What is the proper, or acceptable hole clearances (to the edge of the longerons)??? Mine range from 1/4" to 1/8 inch on the closest ones. Is this an acceptable distance or do I need to get new longerons and start over??? Pictures are attached. Thanks in advance, Bill Britton RV-10 Tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2006
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Priming
John, Not everyone is priming! Many of us are not, it is a personal decision that you must make on your own. Steve 40212 (Priming only the ribs & non alodine parts) --- John Gonzalez wrote: > > > As suggested look in the archives, but maybe > consider going half way but > getting say 75% results. > > Maybe Alodine only. > > Less messy, no weight, and less impact on the > environment then doing all > treatments. > > JG. > > > >From: <shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com> > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV10-List: Priming > >Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:21:27 -0800 > > > >I'm new here so please excuse me if: > > > >a. This question has been asked and beat to death > already > >b. If this is not the right forum for this > question > > > >I will be ordering an RV-10 Empennage Kit this > fall. I built an RV-6 > >empennage many years ago, but now have 3 in our > family, hence the decision > >to build the ten. > > > >The part of my RV6 project that I disliked more > than I can say was the > >preparation and subsequent priming of all parts > before assembly. > > > >Recently, I have been talking with a number of > professional airplane types > >(A&Ps) and many are telling me to forget priming > "and just build it". They > >cite examples such as Cessnas, which were never > primed and many are still > >flying with little, or no corrosion after 50 years. > Since I plan to > >hangar my airplane and I don't live near the ocean, > I am inclined to take > >their advice. But.....it seems all of you guys are > priming yours. > >So......what say you? And if you think priming is > really that important, > >maybe there are some simpler methods or products > these days??? > > > >Thanks! > > > >Skip > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2006
From: Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Priming
John, Not everyone is priming! Many of us are not, it is a personal decision that you must make on your own. Steve 40212 (Priming only the ribs & non alclad parts) --- John Gonzalez wrote: > > > As suggested look in the archives, but maybe > consider going half way but > getting say 75% results. > > Maybe Alodine only. > > Less messy, no weight, and less impact on the > environment then doing all > treatments. > > JG. > > > >From: <shfeher(at)rockwellcollins.com> > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV10-List: Priming > >Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2006 15:21:27 -0800 > > > >I'm new here so please excuse me if: > > > >a. This question has been asked and beat to death > already > >b. If this is not the right forum for this > question > > > >I will be ordering an RV-10 Empennage Kit this > fall. I built an RV-6 > >empennage many years ago, but now have 3 in our > family, hence the decision > >to build the ten. > > > >The part of my RV6 project that I disliked more > than I can say was the > >preparation and subsequent priming of all parts > before assembly. > > > >Recently, I have been talking with a number of > professional airplane types > >(A&Ps) and many are telling me to forget priming > "and just build it". They > >cite examples such as Cessnas, which were never > primed and many are still > >flying with little, or no corrosion after 50 years. > Since I plan to > >hangar my airplane and I don't live near the ocean, > I am inclined to take > >their advice. But.....it seems all of you guys are > priming yours. > >So......what say you? And if you think priming is > really that important, > >maybe there are some simpler methods or products > these days??? > > > >Thanks! > > > >Skip > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 16, 2006
Subject: new instrument panel
For those looking for panel ideas, here is a shot of my just finished panel. grumpy - #40404 Panel was done by Avionics Systems of Leesburg, VA. Met them at Osh last year. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Priming
Date: Feb 16, 2006
> From: "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> > Date: 2006/02/15 Wed PM 08:45:33 PST > To: > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Priming > > I've been using a rattle can self-etching primer (SEM) > which seems like a decent compromise between effort and > results - very little effort and good, albeit non-Mil Spec, > results. FWIW - a recent (if not the latest) RVator touched > on this very issue. For those of on our second airplane, it's interesting to note that the primer approaches don't even converge after getting some building experience. I used NAPA 7220 rattle can primer on my -7A, while buddy Dan Checkoway went the AKZO epoxy primer route. The self-etching rattle can primer sure was quick -- a Scotchbrite scuff, a quick wipe of MEK, spray it, assemble it ten minutes later. But it hasn't held up very well in areas that get abrasion on the -7A, and even now it is possible to remove the primer with MEK. So for the -10 I'm using the AKZO epoxy primer, while Dan C. decided that if he builds another one, he'll just spot prime the rib flanges and other spots where two pieces of aluminum are stuck together, and leave the rest bare. I did that on the inside of my -7A wings and then fogged them with ACF-50 to get some anti-corrosion film on the bare aluminum skins. One thing that has made the AZKO go quickly is using a disposable cup spray "zip gun" from ACS ( http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/zipgun.php ). The primer smells kinda bad, and has to sit around for 30 minutes after mixing, but dries almost as fast as the rattle can primer. Very tough and bonds much better to the aluminum than the self-etching rattle can primer. Anyway, the reason I chose to do this was that we've always lived in coastal cities near saltwater, and I had a Cessna 182 based on Kent Island in Maryland that picked up definite internal wing corrosion over the course of a few years parked close to the water's edge. JRA aircraft in Hagerstown treated the corrosion with ACF-50 and stopped it from progressing quite impressively. But as always, your mileage may vary and priming is one of those things every builder gets a valid and usually strong opinion about. -Dan Masys #40448 closing wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: new instrument panel
Date: Feb 16, 2006
looks good ; also looks like you were a former military pilot. going to fly right seat? Any weapons systems installed? ----- Original Message ----- From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 8:48 PM Subject: RV10-List: new instrument panel For those looking for panel ideas, here is a shot of my just finished panel. grumpy - #40404 Panel was done by Avionics Systems of Leesburg, VA. 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From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: autopilot
Date: Feb 16, 2006
What are some opinions on which trutrak to use? What functions are needed in the box itself, and what functions do we not need to buy in the A/P that the EFIS/GPS will provide for us (steering commands, vert speed, etc) Rob #392 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2006
From: "Phil White" <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Engine alternative?
Like Bob Kaufmann, I am installing a Mazda 3 rotor 20B Wankel engine in my -10. I believe there are 2 others in Texas who are also planning Mazda rotaries in their -10's. Phil White #40220 (fuse got glare shield tonite, roof soon) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: autopilot
Date: Feb 17, 2006
I have a Trutrak in my -6. Just love it! It is precise and has the functionality of much more expensive auto pilots. If you are going to shoot ILS approaches, you will at least need IIVSGV. Talk to your EFIS guy also. Blue mountain has their own Auto pilot and Trutrak will not work with their system. GRT however supports Trutrak nicely. rob kermanj rv10es(at)earthlink.net On Feb 16, 2006, at 11:52 PM, Robert G. Wright wrote: > What are some opinions on which trutrak to use? What functions are > needed in the box itself, and what functions do we not need to buy > in the A/P that the EFIS/GPS will provide for us (steering > commands, vert speed, etc) > > > Rob > > #392 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: autopilot
Date: Feb 17, 2006
I agree with the other Rob who posted, the TruTrak DigiFlight II VSGV is what I bought, going with the flat panel display instead of the round. I am using a three screen GRT glass display (duel Horizon II and one Sport) for a hard IFR panel. The following is a picture of the panel, almost completed: The panel covering is a Kevlar overlay material. The bottom part of the panel will also have the Kevlar overlay put on after all the break and rocker switches holes are cut. The TruTrak autopilot is on the far left hand side above the trim and ignition switch. Russ Daves #40044 (doors ready to install) ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert G. Wright To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2006 10:52 PM Subject: RV10-List: autopilot What are some opinions on which trutrak to use? What functions are needed in the box itself, and what functions do we not need to buy in the A/P that the EFIS/GPS will provide for us (steering commands, vert speed, etc) Rob #392 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Tailcone longeron hole clearance --one more time
Date: Feb 17, 2006
Posted this yesterday morning and only got one response. I even sent the same question and pictures to Vans and they didn't even answer yet. Anyway, on page 10-13 steps 4, 6, and 7 we are instructed to drill the end holes of each piece to #12's into the longerons. What is the proper, or acceptable hole clearances (to the edge of the longerons)??? Mine range from 1/4" to 1/8 inch on the closest ones. Is this an acceptable distance or do I need to get new longerons and start over??? Pictures are attached. Thanks in advance, Bill Britton RV-10 Tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine combination
Date: Feb 17, 2006
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Fellows: What have the "flyers" been getting for Phase I fly-off time? 40 or 25 hours? Does the IO-540 with Hartzell qualify as an approved combination, or is it not yet (or ever) "certified"? TDT 40025 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2006
From: "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com>
Subject: autopilot
rob kermanj wrote: >If you are going to shoot ILS approaches, you will at least need >IIVSGV. Talk to your EFIS guy also. TruTrack is a great autopilot and I also intend to use the Digiflight II VSGV, however lets be clear on what is does and does not do. Firstly, the Digiflight II VSGV will NOT track an ILS directly. There are no provisions in the Digiflight for a VHF ILS Nav inputs, they only use GPS Nav data. While you can use a II VSGV to laterally fly a GPS overlay to an ILS, it cannot directly fly an ILS and will not track the glideslope even with the Vertical GPS Steering capability. Since only the DFC & Sorcerer autopilots support external HSIs, only they can track an ILS directly by tracking the HSI needles. That being said however, here is how a GRT EFIS can trick a Digiflight II VSGV into tracking an ILS. Im not sure but the Chelton should also be able to do the same. You would wire the VHF/NAV radio signals into the GRT. The GRT would use these signals to depict the HSI and glidescope on the EFIS. Since the GRT now has the vertical and lateral guidance for the ILS from the VHF/NAV radio, it can feed these to the TruTrack as GPS lateral and vertical steering commands. In other words, the GRT EFIS would drive the autopilot. For the Digiflight autopilots, you need something in between it and the VHF/NAV radio if you want it to fly an ILS. For WAAS approaches with vertical guidance, the GPS can drive the autopilot directly, but not for ILS approaches. William Curtis 40237 - fuse http://nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: aileron trim
Date: Feb 17, 2006
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey all - I was hoping someone could clear some stuff up for me about the aileron trim... I searched the archives but couldn't find the info. In Vans catalog, the aileron trim for the RV-10 says that the trim is a spring bias system connected to the control column. I thought, however, that I had heard that it was installed in the wing. Could someone who's installed it clear this up for me? And also, what I should order if I plan to install it? Thanks cj #40410 wings www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2006
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: aileron trim
It's definitely a wing installed spring system. You basically have a pair of springs mounted to the aileron pushrod, with the center being a kind of lever arrangement. The servo just swings the lever one way or the other, which adds tension to one side. It seems to work fine, and it's a pretty simple system. There isn't anything connected to the control column. I installed mine in a completed wing. It will be JUST slightly easier to do if your wingtips are off. You may also want to paint that wing access plate after you install the trim. other than that, it's super simple. If you plan to install it, the only thing you need extra is a little wire (I think there might be 5 wires to the servo), and some sort of stick that has a Hat switch. The Aileron trim is one of those things I wouldn't sweat until you get nearly done with the project...and just install it right before you mount your wings. Tim Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Chris Johnston wrote: > Hey all > I was hoping someone could clear some stuff up for me about the > aileron trim I searched the archives but couldnt find the info. > In Vans catalog, the aileron trim for the RV-10 says that the trim > is a spring bias system connected to the control column. I thought, > however, that I had heard that it was installed in the wing. Could > someone whos installed it clear this up for me? And also, what I > should order if I plan to install it? > > Thanks > cj > #40410 > wings > www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: DDRT-2 Dimpler arrived
Date: Feb 17, 2006
My DDRT-2 arrived last week and all I can say it that Paul at Experimental Aero does and awesome job building and shipping this tool. If you're using a typical C-Frame tool you may not realize how much easier (and quieter) your work could be. It's worth every penny. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: DDRT-2 Dimpler arrived
Date: Feb 17, 2006
Jeff, Thanks for the feedback. Enjoy the tool. Build on.... Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Dalton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 5:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: DDRT-2 Dimpler arrived My DDRT-2 arrived last week and all I can say it that Paul at Experimental Aero does and awesome job building and shipping this tool. If you're using a typical C-Frame tool you may not realize how much easier (and quieter) your work could be. It's worth every penny. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: Inspection Plates
Date: Feb 17, 2006
Anyone installing clear (plexi?) inspection covers / plates instead of aluminum? John Jessen ~328 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: glassing
Date: Feb 17, 2006
I have no foam rib material left over for the emp tip fairings. Is there a something available locally that will work as the backing for glassing in the backside of the tips? Rob #392 Emp attach ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2006
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: glassing
I just went to a Hobby or Craft store locally. They usually have plenty of foam choices in various thicknesses. -Sean #40303 Robert G. Wright wrote: > > I have no foam rib material left over for the emp tip fairings. Is > there a something available locally that will work as the backing for > glassing in the backside of the tips? > > > > Rob #392 > > Emp attach > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 18, 2006
Subject: Re: defrosters
I asked Van's about a defrost system. Ken Scott told me that they have computer fans mounted under the glareshield in the prototypes. I plan on doing the same. I'm going to try putting one fan in the tunnel as well to keep the temperature down in there. Jim McGrew 40134 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2006
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: defrosters/computer fans
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Subject: Engine combination
Date: Feb 18, 2006
> From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> > Date: 2006/02/17 Fri PM 07:47:56 PST > You just fly off the 40 hours. > > If you modify the VANS plans on the airframe, you get the 40 hours as well. The 25 hours vs. 40 might be an issue if you're in a hurry to get to OSH, but I can say from flight testing my -7A, that it takes about 40 - 50 hours to get all of your performance envelope testing, debugging and tweaking, systems calibrations, etc. done. I got to the end of my flight test cards right at about 38 flight hours (which included things like testing power levels vs. performance vs. indicated airspeed all the way up to 18,000 feet.) So there was a particularly boring final test flight in the test area out over the SoCal desert where I set the TruTrak with altitude hold, and just read a copy of EAA Sport Aviation for a while! Am expecting to get 25 hours on the -10 since it will have a "certfied" Lycoming & Hartzell, but it really doesn't matter unless your DAR gives you too small a box to fly it all off. The test area east of San Diego was great, since it was about 75 nm by 50 nm -- lotsa space to play in. -Dan Masys #40448 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Subject: Ouch. That was hard!
Date: Feb 18, 2006
My wife and I just finished riveting the bottom outer wing skin on the left wing today. Clecoing everything from the rear spar forward to the J stiffeners makes the longest and most uncomfortable reach I've ever had for a riveting job. Plus it amounted to about 350 blind bucking events -- a new record. It's a good thing we had the experience of pounding about 18K rivets on the previous plane. The whole thing was done by feel with a bit of after-the-fact inspection. Even at that, it was hard to be sure the bucking bar was fully parallel to the skin surface, and we got a few dings where the bar bounced and pushed out from the inside of the wing. I kept remembering that the Apollo I astronauts were killed by a wiring defect that resulted from a blind assembly, and NASA hasn't allow that kind of construction ever since. Still, it's nice to have the left wing closed at 275 total shop hours. On to the right wing... -Dan Masys #40448 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: glassing
Date: Feb 18, 2006
> > From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> > Date: 2006/02/17 Fri PM 08:16:53 PST > I have no foam rib material left over for the emp tip fairings. Is there a > something available locally that will work as the backing for glassing in > the backside of the tips? I got some 2 inch thick x 24 inch square foam from a local fabric shop and cut the outline of the tip ribs using a bandsaw. Then used the bandsaw to slice it in two so the foam was 1 inch thick (see picture at http://132.239.155.44/rv7a/tipfoam.jpg ). Worked well, particularly for the compound curve that is required on the HS tips. Glassed one layer of cloth over the foam, with a 1/8 inch flexible piece of wood wedged between the fairing and the elevator to keep a gap between them. Then removed the foam, added addition layers of cloth, and then used microballoon mixture to fill in the uneven areas on the fairing. Came out pretty well. -Dan Masys #40448 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Aileron Pushrod F-1064 Length
Date: Feb 18, 2006
RV-10/39-5 dwg shows F-1064 length of 12 5/8 in. The material is furnished 13 1/8 in. Which length is correct? Also is there a change in the length of the Pushrod Sleeve F-1064B (1/2 in) ? Richard Reynolds RV-10 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ouch. That was hard!
Date: Feb 18, 2006
Dan, I hear ya!!!! Closed the left wing with the help of a couple of friends, finished the right side by myself. Happy that its done! John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2006
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Pushrod F-1064 Length
In fact I have one that is 12 5/8" and one that is 13 1/8. I called Vans and they said they were changing the length of the pushrod so you do not need the sleeves. (I must have been right in the middle of the switch). Just set the overall length to 14 7/8 center to center from the rod end bearing. Larry Rosen http://lrosen.nerv10.com Richard Reynolds wrote: > > RV-10/39-5 dwg shows F-1064 length of 12 5/8 in. > > The material is furnished 13 1/8 in. Which length is correct? > > Also is there a change in the length of the Pushrod Sleeve F-1064B > (1/2 in) ? > > Richard Reynolds > RV-10 > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: defrosters
Date: Feb 18, 2006
Jim, Sounds like reasonable idea to include a fan in the tunnel - how do you plan to duct the source and exit air? Marcus 40286 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew(at)aol.com Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: defrosters I asked Van's about a defrost system. Ken Scott told me that they have computer fans mounted under the glareshield in the prototypes. I plan on doing the same. I'm going to try putting one fan in the tunnel as well to keep the temperature down in there. Jim McGrew 40134 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Ouch. That was hard!
Date: Feb 18, 2006
Mirrors can check your work or boroscopes. -Chris Lucas #40072 headed for the bottom skins too. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2006 6:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: Ouch. That was hard! > > My wife and I just finished riveting the bottom outer wing skin on the > left wing today. Clecoing everything from the rear spar forward to the J > stiffeners makes the longest and most uncomfortable reach I've ever had > for a riveting job. Plus it amounted to about 350 blind bucking events -- > a new record. It's a good thing we had the experience of pounding about > 18K rivets on the previous plane. The whole thing was done by feel with a > bit of after-the-fact inspection. Even at that, it was hard to be sure > the bucking bar was fully parallel to the skin surface, and we got a few > dings where the bar bounced and pushed out from the inside of the wing. I > kept remembering that the Apollo I astronauts were killed by a wiring > defect that resulted from a blind assembly, and NASA hasn't allow that > kind of construction ever since. > > Still, it's nice to have the left wing closed at 275 total shop hours. On > to the right wing... > > -Dan Masys > #40448 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2006
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: defrosters
Why not just duct it up to the defrost exit? Accomplish two things with one fan! -Sean #40303 Marcus Cooper wrote: > > Jim, > > Sounds like reasonable idea to include a fan in the tunnel how do > you plan to duct the source and exit air? > > Marcus > > 40286 > > -----Original Message----- > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *JSMcGrew(at)aol.com > *Sent:* Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:49 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: defrosters > > I asked Van's about a defrost system. Ken Scott told me that they have > computer fans mounted under the glareshield in the prototypes. I plan > on doing the same. I'm going to try putting one fan in the tunnel as > well to keep the temperature down in there. > > Jim McGrew > > 40134 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2006
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: defrosters
I use the KISS principle; Just move air from the bottom of the glareshield to the top by means of a fan :) For the heat in the tunnel, has anyone thought of just using a small hole screened over (to keep bugs out) at the front and aft ends of the tunnel? K.I.S.S -Jim 40384 Marcus Cooper wrote: > Jim, > > Sounds like reasonable idea to include a fan in the tunnel how do > you plan to duct the source and exit air? > > Marcus > > 40286 > > -----Original Message----- > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of > *JSMcGrew(at)aol.com > *Sent:* Saturday, February 18, 2006 11:49 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Re: defrosters > > I asked Van's about a defrost system. Ken Scott told me that they have > computer fans mounted under the glareshield in the prototypes. I plan > on doing the same. I'm going to try putting one fan in the tunnel as > well to keep the temperature down in there. > > Jim McGrew > > 40134 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: defrosters
Date: Feb 19, 2006
>>>> For the heat in the tunnel, has anyone thought of just using a small hole screened over (to keep bugs out) at the front and aft ends of the tunnel? K.I.S.S I'm all about the KISS principle, but I think just creating vents at the front and back of the tunnel might create problems. There were similar issues with my first airplane, a Q2, that had internal airflow problems since the fuselage was sealed so well and everyone was trying to figure the best place to put an air exit vent. My concern would be not knowing for sure which side is going to get positive pressure, if so what kind of air are you getting. Avoiding any sort of exhaust or heat from the engine compartment would be important. Seems like Vic Syracuse' solution by ducting some air to the area right in front of the tunnel forward of the firewall seems to be working based on a recent message. Just philosophizing since I haven't even hung my engine yet. Marcus -Jim 40384 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JSMcGrew(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 19, 2006
Subject: Re: Defrosters
Actually, I'm working on this today. I am going to mount the computer fan in the tunnel cover forward of the fuel selector valve (directly over the boost pump and filter). It will be offset to the left to allow the rear cabin heat scat tube to go by. The fan will blow cool air down into the tunnel and should exit on its own to the cabin: there are enough openings at the front of the tunnel lid and out underneath the front seats to allow for adequate flow. I am going to try this to, hopefully, avoid taking out all the fuel lines to install insulation on the tunnel floor. The defrost fan will be under the glareshield aft of the subpanel and left of the center rib. It will probably get enough heat from the radio stack and maybe even draw some air up from the heat vents that are directly underneath. There simply isn't enough room under my panel to easily run a duct up. Jim McGrew 40134 Why not just duct it up to the defrost exit? Accomplish two things with one fan! -Sean #40303 Marcus Cooper wrote: > > Jim, > > Sounds like reasonable idea to include a fan in the tunnel how do > you plan to duct the source and exit air? > > Marcus > > 40286 > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: Re: Pumping Tires
Date: Feb 19, 2006
To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage. How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires?? Dave Emond # 40159 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Tim -Tunnel temps-an issue?
Tim, this issue has been on the minds of several of us since it was 1st reported. What is your experience now that you are flying? Deems Davis # 406 Fuse http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: Pumping Tires
Date: Feb 19, 2006
On my RV-8A I installed the spring loaded air valve door on the wheel pants (available at ACS). Regardless of having this door or not, you need some sort of valve extensions to pump up the tires. I bought 4 standard metal tire valve extensions from Wal-Mart, and used lock tight to screw them together. Don't screw them together too tight or you will be leaking air when attached to the tire. I painted a small white line on the tire sidewall such that when the white line pointed to the ground, the tire valve stem is lined up with the access door. Just screw in the now long valve extender through the door into the tire valve stem and you have it. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (250 hrs) RV-10 (tail) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda Emond Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 10:24 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Pumping Tires To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage. How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires?? Dave Emond # 40159 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041
Date: Feb 20, 2006
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Further to Rene's post below, can anyone advise how much material needs to be removed from the F-1001M angle so that these rivets can be set? A photo showing the modified angle would be really useful. Rick and Niko, I think we are at about the same build point. If you have finished riveting the 1040s, how much of this angle did you remove? thanks in advance, Ron -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Monday, 5 December 2005 1:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041 Searched archives but could not find anything. For those who have gotten further along in your fuselage build. How did you rivet the forward most rivets in the F-1040 and F-1041. The angles on the bulkhead get in the way of placing and driving the rivets. I have sent an e-mail to vans asking if it is appropriate to remove some of the material from the angles. I have attached a picture. Rene' 801-721-6080 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2006
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Feedback/opinion on half-way point.
I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what your opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with your project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But there must be enough people that are complete or close to it to make some rough estimate about where in the building process is the half-way point. I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major financial outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage cash flows/ returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8 months now, I'm finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that I've got more ahead of me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an idea of how much, assuming I continue at the same rate/pace. Your estimates of where the 1/2 way point is should help me in that decision. (I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel, interior, etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you humble opinion based upon your experience being further down the road than I, THANKS Deems Davis # 406 Fuse http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Feedback/opinion on half-way point.
Date: Feb 19, 2006
You're halfway done when you start thinking "Hey, I'm almost done!" :-) Seriously, on my -9A slow build, I think the halfway point was when I had completed the airframe and was beginning the finishing kit. Mike Schipper -9A N63MS - Flying www.my9a.com On Feb 19, 2006, at 6:10 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or > nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what > your opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with > your project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But > there must be enough people that are complete or close to it to > make some rough estimate about where in the building process is the > half-way point. > I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major > financial outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage > cash flows/ returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8 > months now, I'm finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that > I've got more ahead of me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an > idea of how much, assuming I continue at the same rate/pace. Your > estimates of where the 1/2 way point is should help me in that > decision. > > (I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel, > interior, etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you > humble opinion based upon your experience being further down the > road than I, > > THANKS > > Deems Davis # 406 > Fuse > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2006
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pumping Tires
Dave & Brenda Emond wrote: > To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage. > > How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires?? > > Dave Emond > # 40159 If you have the 90 degree tire stem .... that sticks out parallel to the axle ...... all you have to do is get an extender at any good truck tire store. Drill a hole in the side of the wheel pant so you can thread the extender on the tire stem. Paint a white (or your favorite color) stripe vertically on the side of the tire so you can roll the airplane until the stripe is vertical ..... and the extender will screw right on. The only downside is that the valve stem won't have a cover on it to keep dirt out. Linn ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2006
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Forward Rivets on F-1040 and F-1041
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2006
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Re: Pumping Tires
The valve stems on my RV-10 mains point toward the axle nut, not parallel to the axle. Poor geometry for servicing. Are other builders seeing the same thing? Does anybody have insight into a tube part number where the valve stem is parallel to the axle, like it is with the RV-6? Thanks, Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction linn Walters wrote: > Dave & Brenda Emond wrote: > >> To those builders that are past the wheel fairing stage. >> >> How easy is it to get access to the valve, and pump tires?? >> >> Dave Emond >> # 40159 > > If you have the 90 degree tire stem .... that sticks out parallel to the > axle ...... all you have to do is get an extender at any good truck tire > store. Drill a hole in the side of the wheel pant so you can thread the > extender on the tire stem. Paint a white (or your favorite color) > stripe vertically on the side of the tire so you can roll the airplane > until the stripe is vertical ..... and the extender will screw right on. > > The only downside is that the valve stem won't have a cover on it to > keep dirt out. > Linn > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2006
From: Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net>
Subject: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang?
I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the top skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I would hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing off every time flaps are used. If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions? Thanks, -Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Feedback/opinion on half-way point.
Date: Feb 20, 2006
From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
I agree with Tim and Mike. I built a slow-build and should be flying in May if all the planets align. I feel half way is about the time you are starting on the finishing kit. I started the finishing kit and firewall forward kit about the same time. That is the time when you start spending some bucks with the purchase of the engine, prop, fuel pump / filter, ect.... -Scott Schmidt ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Michael Schipper Sent: Sun 19/02/2006 18:52 Subject: Re: RV10-List: Feedback/opinion on half-way point. You're halfway done when you start thinking "Hey, I'm almost done!" :-) Seriously, on my -9A slow build, I think the halfway point was when I had completed the airframe and was beginning the finishing kit. Mike Schipper -9A N63MS - Flying www.my9a.com On Feb 19, 2006, at 6:10 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > > I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or > nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what > your opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with > your project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But > there must be enough people that are complete or close to it to > make some rough estimate about where in the building process is the > half-way point. > I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major > financial outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage > cash flows/ returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8 > months now, I'm finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that > I've got more ahead of me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an > idea of how much, assuming I continue at the same rate/pace. Your > estimates of where the 1/2 way point is should help me in that > decision. > > (I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel, > interior, etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you > humble opinion based upon your experience being further down the > road than I, > > THANKS > > Deems Davis # 406 > Fuse > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang?
Date: Feb 20, 2006
Hi Sean, I believe this is normal in all of the RV models, designed to be that way probably for better aerodynamics. There have been several approaches to "wear" strips or other protection, tapes of various types as Tim mentioned applied in strips or larger areas. On my 4 the painter sprayed a teflon impregnated paint on the area of the flap that contacts the skin, it has held up well for years. Others have used various types on stick on materials like the firewall heat shield aluminum. Dick Sipp RV4 N250DS RV10 40065 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Stephens" <schmoboy(at)cox.net> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 1:02 AM Subject: RV10-List: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? > > I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron > actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar > as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the top > skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I would > hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing off every > time flaps are used. > > If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins) > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2006
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose wheel
fork. RV-10 list, On my RV-10 nose wheel I'm finding that the valve stem (with the valve stem cover off) misses the nose wheel fork by only 1/8". If the valve stem cover is on, the valve stem cover hits the nose wheel fork when the wheel is rotated. Is this what others are seeing? Tim -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2006
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting
John, On riveting the tailcone, it helps if you have a partner... I had no help, so here's how I did it: Put the Clecos in from the INSIDE of the tailcone, then you will find your back riveting plate can slide in underneath the skin between the clecos. Then just start Back riveting! Of course, when you get to the aft top skin, you will need a partner, but other than that back rivet away! I even back riveted the curved sections; Get a few pillows or foam blocks to hold the tailcone in position to back rivet the one you need to rivet, then adjust positions, and repeat.... (Did I mention it totally sucks doing it all alone?) Enjoy it! This is the first piece that is big enough to show friends what size your plane is! (All my friends thought the Horizontal Stabilizer was the main wing!!!) -Jim 40384 (SafeAir/Hotel Whiskey tip tanks are due to arrive Wednesday!) John Gonzalez wrote: > > Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE > dipole antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would make > the plane more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and Transponder > antennas are available. > > On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next > weekend. Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved tailcone, > fuselage corners as this will be the first time with a part like > this....all so highly visible. > > JOhn G. > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting
Date: Feb 20, 2006
Thanks, I hadn't read far enough ahead to realize there was that much back riveting. I am interested in learning about your wing tip tanks after you install them. John G. DNA >From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting >Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2006 11:28:22 -0500 > > >John, > On riveting the tailcone, it helps if you have a partner... > > I had no help, so here's how I did it: > Put the Clecos in from the INSIDE of the tailcone, then you will >find your back riveting plate can slide in underneath the skin between the >clecos. Then just start Back riveting! Of course, when you get to the aft >top skin, you will need a partner, but other than that back rivet away! > > I even back riveted the curved sections; Get a few pillows or foam >blocks to hold the tailcone in position to back rivet the one you need to >rivet, then adjust positions, and repeat.... (Did I mention it totally >sucks doing it all alone?) > > Enjoy it! This is the first piece that is big enough to show friends >what size your plane is! (All my friends thought the Horizontal Stabilizer >was the main wing!!!) > > -Jim 40384 (SafeAir/Hotel Whiskey tip tanks are due to arrive >Wednesday!) >John Gonzalez wrote: > >> >>Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE dipole >>antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would make the plane >>more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and Transponder antennas are >>available. >> >>On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next >>weekend. Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved tailcone, >>fuselage corners as this will be the first time with a part like >>this....all so highly visible. >> >>JOhn G. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > >


February 02, 2006 - February 20, 2006

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