RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ba
February 20, 2006 - March 15, 2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna options./Tailcone Riveting |
I also riveted my tailcone as Jim suggested. One thing that made a BIG
difference was that I got a BIG back rivet plate (16"x20"), I just went
down to the scrap metal dealer and found a piece of 5/16" (1/4"?). It
made it a lot easier as I was able to load more rivets at one time, and
also minimized the risk of getting off the plate.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
James Hein wrote:
>
> John,
> On riveting the tailcone, it helps if you have a partner...
>
> I had no help, so here's how I did it:
> Put the Clecos in from the INSIDE of the tailcone, then you will
> find your back riveting plate can slide in underneath the skin between
> the clecos. Then just start Back riveting! Of course, when you get to
> the aft top skin, you will need a partner, but other than that back
> rivet away!
>
> I even back riveted the curved sections; Get a few pillows or
> foam blocks to hold the tailcone in position to back rivet the one you
> need to rivet, then adjust positions, and repeat.... (Did I mention it
> totally sucks doing it all alone?)
>
> Enjoy it! This is the first piece that is big enough to show
> friends what size your plane is! (All my friends thought the
> Horizontal Stabilizer was the main wing!!!)
>
> -Jim 40384 (SafeAir/Hotel Whiskey tip tanks are due to arrive
> Wednesday!)
> John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Just curious as to whether anyone has tried to use one of those AAE
>> dipole antennas in their fiberglass wing tips. Using these would
>> make the plane more aerodynamically sound. Both comm, Nav and
>> Transponder antennas are available.
>>
>> On another note, I will hopefully start riveting the tailcone next
>> weekend. Are there any suggestions on riveting those curved
>> tailcone, fuselage corners as this will be the first time with a part
>> like this....all so highly visible.
>>
>> JOhn G.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static Dischargers |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
G'day mates from sunny Australia,
This is my first week on the list and my first post and I've read and
learnt a lot awaits me as I progress from my empennage kit.
I have been reading about static discharger wick installations on other
RV models and as yet have found no information or references regrading
the installation of discharger wicks on 10's. Is there anyone out there
who has or plans to install discharger static wicks on their 10 please,
I'd love to hear from you and your thoughts/plans.
Regards
> PATRICK PULIS
>
Builder #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose |
wheel fork.
We are building 2 RV-10's, both have the same issue. I have not had
chance to figure it all out.... It seems like the valve stem is way too
long
-Mike Kraus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Lewis
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and
nose wheel fork.
RV-10 list,
On my RV-10 nose wheel I'm finding that the valve stem (with the valve
stem cover off) misses the nose wheel fork by only 1/8". If the valve
stem cover is on, the valve stem cover hits the nose wheel fork when the
wheel is rotated. Is this what others are seeing?
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Static Dischargers |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Patrick, thanks for joining the list. The archives would be a great
source including one posters recommendation for discharge placements.
John Cox - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static Dischargers
G'day mates from sunny Australia,
This is my first week on the list and my first post and I've read and
learnt a lot awaits me as I progress from my empennage kit.
I have been reading about static discharger wick installations on other
RV models and as yet have found no information or references regrading
the installation of discharger wicks on 10's. Is there anyone out there
who has or plans to install discharger static wicks on their 10 please,
I'd love to hear from you and your thoughts/plans.
Regards
PATRICK PULIS
Builder #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 |
I have always heard that the useable fuel in the RV-10 was basically
ALL of it.
A couple days ago I had the opportunity to do a controlled test
of this.
After initially calibrating my fuel float sensors using FORWARD
sensing on the GRT EIS 6000 with my Chelton, and finding that they
really needed to be done with REVERSE sensing, I needed to drain
my tanks to get an empty and full reading from the EIS.
So I flew at 4000' AGL above the airport for what I figured
was the last few gallons of my left tank, until it ran out.
It was very interesting as my Chelton started barking at
me to "check engine" before the engine started to run rough,
because it noticed the fuel pressure dropping below limits.
I switched the valve over and everything was well. I landed,
drained the sumps into a gas can and only got out maybe 1/2
to 1qt at most. I filled the tank and calibrated it. I
then did the same flight on the right tank with the same results,
and filled that one and calibrated that one as well.
So yes, all fuel is basically useable fuel in the RV-10.
In addition, today I checked my calibration and found that the
reading on my instruments for remaining gallons was dead-nuts-on
when I topped off the tanks.
It's VERY nice to know exactly how much fuel you have. Amazing
that with float sensors I can actually say I have readings I
can trust.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Feedback/opinion on half-way point. |
I would say it depends on a lot of things, but if you are wiring up your own
panel and plumbing your own engine, it is probably around the end of the
metal work and the beginning of the cabin top. There are so many variables
that make a difference in that, but it is probably around there.
Some people put the engine on even before they start the cabin top, which
helps balance the thing once it's on the gear (which some like to do early).
Others, like us, had the whole cabin top done and almost ready to paint
before we put the gear on, and we didn't put the engine on until the plans
said to. On the one we are building now, we are going to get the things
painted before engine or instruments or anything, so we will not need any of
that until we are done. We are having to borrow an engine to fit the
cowling and spinner.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2006 7:11 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Feedback/opinion on half-way point.
I'm curious as to the opinion/feedback of others further along, or
nearing completion who also went the slo-built route, as to what your
opinion is on where or when you are 1/2 or 50% complete with your
project. (I know the old saying 50% complete 90% to go), But there must
be enough people that are complete or close to it to make some rough
estimate about where in the building process is the half-way point.
I'm trying to gauge when to commit funds to some of the major financial
outlay's (Engine & Panel) while also trying to manage cash flows/
returns. I've been working on my project steadily for 8 months now, I'm
finishing up Section 26 on the Fuse, I know that I've got more ahead of
me than is behind me, but I'd like to get an idea of how much, assuming
I continue at the same rate/pace. Your estimates of where the 1/2 way
point is should help me in that decision.
(I know that there are a LOT of variables, e.g. paint, panel, interior,
etc. I'm not looking for a precise estimate just you humble opinion
based upon your experience being further down the road than I,
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang? |
We put the UHMV on the top of the flap and that took care of it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 1:02 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flaps Rubbing Top Skin Overhang?
I temporarily attached the flaps this weekend to set neutral for aileron
actuation. I noticed when bottoming out the flaps against the rear spar
as instructed, that the flaps (both wings) rub on the overhang of the
top skins. They barely rub, but rub none the less. Is this normal? I
would hope not, as I can imagine that nice new paint would be rubbing
off every time flaps are used.
If this is not desired/normal, any suggestions?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303 (about to start bottom skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 |
Do your tanks fit 30 gallons from empty? We put 32 gallons in per side
based on the pump we were using. Anybody else see this?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:21 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10
I have always heard that the useable fuel in the RV-10 was basically
ALL of it.
A couple days ago I had the opportunity to do a controlled test
of this.
After initially calibrating my fuel float sensors using FORWARD
sensing on the GRT EIS 6000 with my Chelton, and finding that they
really needed to be done with REVERSE sensing, I needed to drain
my tanks to get an empty and full reading from the EIS.
So I flew at 4000' AGL above the airport for what I figured
was the last few gallons of my left tank, until it ran out.
It was very interesting as my Chelton started barking at
me to "check engine" before the engine started to run rough,
because it noticed the fuel pressure dropping below limits.
I switched the valve over and everything was well. I landed,
drained the sumps into a gas can and only got out maybe 1/2
to 1qt at most. I filled the tank and calibrated it. I
then did the same flight on the right tank with the same results,
and filled that one and calibrated that one as well.
So yes, all fuel is basically useable fuel in the RV-10.
In addition, today I checked my calibration and found that the
reading on my instruments for remaining gallons was dead-nuts-on
when I topped off the tanks.
It's VERY nice to know exactly how much fuel you have. Amazing
that with float sensors I can actually say I have readings I
can trust.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10 |
Mine top of at almost exactly 30 gallons each side too.
Also, regarding calibration, I find the floats stop changing
value at right around 24 gallons during a fillup. So, I set
my fuel reading to max out at 24. I can verify fuel on
the Chelton at 60 total, and use the totalizer, and the
float levels read 24/24 for the first part of the flight.
Then once they start coming down from there, they're accurate
all the way to zero. That's the recommended calibration
practice by GRT. That's funny you get 32 gallons when
you fill up. I can't imagine the tanks would vary that much
in construction. Do you trust the fuel pump you're using?
Maybe someone is gouging you. ??
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Do your tanks fit 30 gallons from empty? We put 32 gallons in per side
> based on the pump we were using. Anybody else see this?
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse(at)itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
> please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
> please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
> voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 8:21 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Useable Fuel verification on the RV-10
>
>
> I have always heard that the useable fuel in the RV-10 was basically
> ALL of it.
>
> A couple days ago I had the opportunity to do a controlled test
> of this.
>
> After initially calibrating my fuel float sensors using FORWARD
> sensing on the GRT EIS 6000 with my Chelton, and finding that they
> really needed to be done with REVERSE sensing, I needed to drain
> my tanks to get an empty and full reading from the EIS.
>
> So I flew at 4000' AGL above the airport for what I figured
> was the last few gallons of my left tank, until it ran out.
> It was very interesting as my Chelton started barking at
> me to "check engine" before the engine started to run rough,
> because it noticed the fuel pressure dropping below limits.
> I switched the valve over and everything was well. I landed,
> drained the sumps into a gas can and only got out maybe 1/2
> to 1qt at most. I filled the tank and calibrated it. I
> then did the same flight on the right tank with the same results,
> and filled that one and calibrated that one as well.
>
> So yes, all fuel is basically useable fuel in the RV-10.
>
> In addition, today I checked my calibration and found that the
> reading on my instruments for remaining gallons was dead-nuts-on
> when I topped off the tanks.
>
> It's VERY nice to know exactly how much fuel you have. Amazing
> that with float sensors I can actually say I have readings I
> can trust.
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill and Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static Dischargers |
Static DischargersI'm incorporating them on my -10 only because the original builder
started with them. I've got one on the top of the rudder, one towards the
outboard tip of each elevator and probably a couple per aileron. Not sure
if the flaps will have any yet or not. The wicks I have are easily removeable
with just 2 small bolts so I'll probably leave them off most of the time so as
to save my eyes a few pokings. Also, don't forget that you should probably
use bonding straps on your hinges also.
Bill Britton
RV-10 Tailcone
#40137
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Pulis
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 5:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Static Dischargers
G'day mates from sunny Australia,
This is my first week on the list and my first post and I've read and learnt
a lot awaits me as I progress from my empennage kit.
I have been reading about static discharger wick installations on other RV models
and as yet have found no information or references regrading the installation
of discharger wicks on 10's. Is there anyone out there who has or plans
to install discharger static wicks on their 10 please, I'd love to hear from you
and your thoughts/plans.
Regards
PATRICK PULIS
Builder #40299
Adelaide, South Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I also used the spring loaded doors and painted white line on my RV8, and bought
a 5 inch valve core extension at a semi-truck supply house. HOWEVER, since I
changed out my tubes to Desser Tire supplied (800 247-8473), Aero Class Leakguard
inner tubes ($33 each), I have not had to add any air to either tire! That
change was in Nov of 2003. They really work!
Chris Hukill
Installing aux fuel tank in QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Small clearance between nose wheel valve stem and nose |
wheel fork.
There isn't enough clearance for me when I install my front tire valve stem
cover either. I was planning using a plastic cover from my car tires, but I
just went out to try that and that gives about 0.01" clearance on the fork.
Jim McGrew
40134
RV-10 list,
On my RV-10 nose wheel I'm finding that the valve stem (with the valve
stem cover off) misses the nose wheel fork by only 1/8". If the valve
stem cover is on, the valve stem cover hits the nose wheel fork when the
wheel is rotated. Is this what others are seeing?
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 830 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
________________________________________________________________________________
Reply to John Gonzalez
RE: hole deburring.
I found a used set of the Cogsdill deburring tools on ebay. I got them
for $75. I think they work well. Easy to use. I have to battery
operated drills and am currently working on the elevators. Will put
the number 40 size in one drill and the 1/8 in the other. Couple
revolutions on the outside and inside of the hole and it's done. I
think it works better than the hand deburring tools.
Fred Williams
drfred@cox-internet.com
40515 empenage
congratulations to Tim Olsen. Couple years and we'll be worring about
how to get all the panel gizmo's to work. Dr Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Installing aux fuel tank |
Chris can you tell us about the fuel tank.
Chris 388
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hukill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 3:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: pumping tires
I also used the spring loaded doors and painted white line on my RV8, and bought
a 5 inch valve core extension at a semi-truck supply house. HOWEVER, since
I changed out my tubes to Desser Tire supplied (800 247-8473), Aero Class Leakguard
inner tubes ($33 each), I have not had to add any air to either tire! That
change was in Nov of 2003. They really work!
Chris Hukill
Installing aux fuel tank in QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Hopefully, you all know the added advantages of (tank) nitrogen rather
than compressed air for long term pressure and tube maintenance. Just a
side note.
John - $00.02
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: pumping tires
I also used the spring loaded doors and painted white line on my RV8,
and bought a 5 inch valve core extension at a semi-truck supply house.
HOWEVER, since I changed out my tubes to Desser Tire supplied (800
247-8473), Aero Class Leakguard inner tubes ($33 each), I have not had
to add any air to either tire! That change was in Nov of 2003. They
really work!
Chris Hukill
Installing aux fuel tank in QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
Anyone looking into modding the baggage door to a "clean" non-piano hinge
design with internal hinges (like a Bonanza)? Or is it even possible?
Chris Lucas
Inventory Slow build Fuse
#40072
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net> |
I have found great results using 2" packaging tape to cover and protect skins while
riveting. I started with a tip from Randy Debauw using the packaging tape
to cover the head of the swivel headed rivet set. Then I decided to try packaging
tape on the skin for holding and (setting protection), works great. Anyone
doing this? I use SOLVE cleaner by SEM to wipe the skins when complete.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 #450 closing elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Carlton <jcarlton3(at)cox.net> |
On Tuesday 21 February 2006 09:32 pm, Paul Grimstad wrote:
> I have found great results using 2" packaging tape
Clear plastic tape? how thick? (mils) How about masking tape, would that
work?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
I use masking tape on my flush set. The blue type masking tape does not
last as long and the regular. I also use it on the sides of bucking
bars to prevent scratches.
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.c0m
Jim Carlton wrote:
>
>On Tuesday 21 February 2006 09:32 pm, Paul Grimstad wrote:
>
>
>>I have found great results using 2" packaging tape
>>
>>
>Clear plastic tape? how thick? (mils) How about masking tape, would that
>work?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
We use clear tape (scotch tape, if nothing else is available) all the time,
either when back riveting or on the rivet sets. It works great. Masking
tape does not do as well on the sets from our experience, and it obviously
won't work well for holding the rivets in the hole unless you are back
riveting on the plate because you can't see the rivet. We use Thinner to
get the residue off.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
Fax: 815-377-3694
I am in Ecuador until May, 2006. If you have questions regarding I-TEC,
please call the office at 352-465-4545. If you would like to talk to me,
please call me at 352-505-1899. This number won't always be on, but it has
voicemail that will get to me in Ecuador.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Grimstad
Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2006 9:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting
I have found great results using 2" packaging tape to cover and protect
skins while riveting. I started with a tip from Randy Debauw using the
packaging tape to cover the head of the swivel headed rivet set. Then I
decided to try packaging tape on the skin for holding and (setting
protection), works great. Anyone doing this? I use SOLVE cleaner by SEM to
wipe the skins when complete.
Paul Grimstad
RV10 #450 closing elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I'm having an approx 18 gal aluminum tank welded up that will go behind the back
seat, with the forward side at the angle of the seat backs to nest right behind
the seats. The tank is 14 in. high, 15 in. at the bottom,8 1/2 in. at the
top, and 30 in long. It will be easily removable, and will fit thru the baggage
door. The tank is pumped thru a Facet, anti siphon pump located just above the
tank into a T at the feed line from the left tank. I'll feed off the left tank
until there is room to pump aux fuel back into the left tank.
For me, this feed method is preferable to a three position valve that must be selected
thru "aux" every time you switch tanks. I have also added two extra ribs
in the baggage floor to allow for the weight, and provide aft anchor points
for the hold down straps. The pilot shall have to bear the responsibility of
an aft cg consideration that will move forward during fuel transfer, but the
plan is to use the tank for long 2 pax flights, with lots of bags in the rear
seat footwell area, as we travel from our home on Vancouver Island to Alaska.
The potential for a crash with fuel in the cabin is a trade-off for the safety
of extra gas over inhospitable terrain, in iffy weather, with few alternates.
I will post pictures and plans after I've completed the install.
Chris Hukill
Slowing working QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Indran Chelvanayagam" <ichelva(at)netspace.net.au> |
Great idea - was thinking of something similar myself, but haven't yet put a
plan into action. Would be grateful for photos/plans once you're done
Indran Chelvanayagam
40228
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Wednesday, 22 February 2006 11:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aux fuel tank
I'm having an approx 18 gal aluminum tank welded up that will go behind the
back seat, with the forward side at the angle of the seat backs to nest
right behind the seats. The tank is 14 in. high, 15 in. at the bottom,8 1/2
in. at the top, and 30 in long. It will be easily removable, and will fit
thru the baggage door. The tank is pumped thru a Facet, anti siphon pump
located just above the tank into a T at the feed line from the left tank.
I'll feed off the left tank until there is room to pump aux fuel back into
the left tank.
For me, this feed method is preferable to a three position valve that must
be selected thru "aux" every time you switch tanks. I have also added two
extra ribs in the baggage floor to allow for the weight, and provide aft
anchor points for the hold down straps. The pilot shall have to bear the
responsibility of an aft cg consideration that will move forward during fuel
transfer, but the plan is to use the tank for long 2 pax flights, with lots
of bags in the rear seat footwell area, as we travel from our home on
Vancouver Island to Alaska. The potential for a crash with fuel in the cabin
is a trade-off for the safety of extra gas over inhospitable terrain, in
iffy weather, with few alternates. I will post pictures and plans after I've
completed the install.
Chris Hukill
Slowing working QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | power out glideslope to nearest airport. |
Being out of the power seen for some time, I am wondering how common it is
to have a fight computer instrument that can calculate your current
position,altitude, airspeed, wind direction/speed and distance to nearest
landing spot. Obviously calibrated to your aircrafts fpm sink rate in calm
air with the power out and propeller in flat pitch.
Is this something that is common in most units or not...if anyone knows of
some units with this capability, I would like to do some research.
DNA
Thanks,
JG. 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | power out glideslope to nearest airport. |
Hi John,
On the cheaper side of the stuff available, have a look at the "Anywhere
Map" program www.controlvision.com it has a simple scaled circle or "safety
cone" depicting your possible glide range depending upon certain parameters
entered.
I had this loaded on an ipaq and it was partly re-assuring at night as a
back-up and helped to make decisions and modify your intended route and
altitude selection based on safety zone and landing area options.
I'm sure there are better and more sophisticated capabilities out there but
this was a good option for the budget conscious.
John #40315
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, 23 February 2006 7:44 AM
Subject: RV10-List: power out glideslope to nearest airport.
Being out of the power seen for some time, I am wondering how common it is
to have a fight computer instrument that can calculate your current
position,altitude, airspeed, wind direction/speed and distance to nearest
landing spot. Obviously calibrated to your aircrafts fpm sink rate in calm
air with the power out and propeller in flat pitch.
Is this something that is common in most units or not...if anyone knows of
some units with this capability, I would like to do some research.
DNA
Thanks,
JG. 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: power out glideslope to nearest airport. |
John,
The Anywhere Map software had/has a function very similar to what you
mention. If I remember correctly it would project a ring around your
position showing how far you could glide given present altitude and
performance parameters of the aircraft. This runs on an palm size computer.
I haven't played with one for a few years so anyone with more current info
please feel free to add your $.02. I think Sportys has a complete package
in their catalog, price somewhere north of a grand.
John Hasbrouck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting Fuse Side Skins |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
I'm about to start riveting the fuse side skins. Has anyone had any success backriveting
these skins? If so, what is the trick for preventing damage to the
ribs/floor panels while climbing around inside?
If your are near this point, have a look at Rick Sked's fuse stand in Tim Olsons
page under fuselage tips. Looks neat, easy to build and versatile. I had not
noticed it before. I guess the only down side is the height is fixed.
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Aux fuel tank |
>I'm having an approx 18 gal aluminum tank welded up that will go behind the back
>seat, with the forward side at the angle of the seat backs to nest right behind
>the seats.
Im planning something similar but it will be a MAIN tank in the baggage area.
It will be fed via pumps from the wing tanks. It will only have an 8 gallons
(48 lbs) capacity but it will be easily replaceable with larger capacity for those
really long ocean spanning trips I may increase this standard tank to a
full 1 hour at 75% power reserve, so my IFR range would be a full 60 gallons.
Initially I was going to use the Andair valve but will use ALL three ports of the
Weatherhead for a LEFT-MAIN-RIGHT setting. When all is functioning correctly,
selector will remain on MAIN. LEFT or RIGHT would only be used in case of
an electrical or pump failure. Could also use the pumps as aileron trim.
See details here:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/9XOther/RV10FuelPlumb.pdf
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great Parts! |
I ordered and just received the collection of items Dave Czachorowski is making
for the -10 tail kit. It started with the trim cable anchor - now there is a
set of items.
Boy - these parts are nice. I just installed the HS Brackets he fabricated and
they're very well done.
Low-res photos attached
Jeff
HS Stabilizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <redflyer(at)comcast.net> |
Chris,
How do you fill the tank?
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:44 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Aux fuel tank
I'm having an approx 18 gal aluminum tank welded up that will go behind
the back seat, with the forward side at the angle of the seat backs to nest
right behind the seats. The tank is 14 in. high, 15 in. at the bottom,8 1/2
in. at the top, and 30 in long. It will be easily removable, and will fit
thru the baggage door. The tank is pumped thru a Facet, anti siphon pump
located just above the tank into a T at the feed line from the left tank.
I'll feed off the left tank until there is room to pump aux fuel back into
the left tank.
For me, this feed method is preferable to a three position valve that must
be selected thru "aux" every time you switch tanks. I have also added two
extra ribs in the baggage floor to allow for the weight, and provide aft
anchor points for the hold down straps. The pilot shall have to bear the
responsibility of an aft cg consideration that will move forward during fuel
transfer, but the plan is to use the tank for long 2 pax flights, with lots
of bags in the rear seat footwell area, as we travel from our home on
Vancouver Island to Alaska. The potential for a crash with fuel in the cabin
is a trade-off for the safety of extra gas over inhospitable terrain, in
iffy weather, with few alternates. I will post pictures and plans after I've
completed the install.
Chris Hukill
Slowing working QB fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | AMSAFE inertial belts(4 point) for RV10 |
AMSAFE will begin manufacturing/shipping four point harnesses for the RV10 with inertial shoulder straps in March. Information on the necessary lid modifications, colors, engineering drawings, and prices are available on www.inertialbelts.com. The procedures deal with a lid that has not been permanently installed. If you lid is already installed please contact me for a means make the mod with the lid on the airframe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great |
Parts!
Hi Jeff,
What was the cost to purchase the full collection of tail kit parts mentioned ?.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great Parts!
I ordered and just received the collection of items Dave Czachorowski is making
for the -10 tail kit. It started with the trim cable anchor - now there is
a set of items.
Boy - these parts are nice. I just installed the HS Brackets he fabricated and
they're very well done.
Low-res photos attached
Jeff
HS Stabilizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great |
Parts!
Everything in the photo was $76 including shipping. Well worth it given the quality.
I understand he has more parts on the way too.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Walter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
Hi Jeff,
What was the cost to purchase the full collection of tail kit parts mentioned
?.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
I ordered and just received the collection of items Dave Czachorowski is making
for the -10 tail kit. It started with the trim cable anchor - now there
is a set of items.
Boy - these parts are nice. I just installed the HS Brackets he fabricated
and they're very well done.
Low-res photos attached
Jeff
HS Stabilizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | EAA Tech Counselor visit |
I just had my first EAA Tech counselor visit. There's a guy in our local EAA chapter
that helps a lot of people out in the area - he really seemed to know his
stuff.
Question for the group - what kinds of experiences did you all have with tech counselors
and how would you recommend best working with them to get the most out
of it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | EAA Tech Counselor visit |
Jeff,
Having been a Tech counselor, I'll offer some thoughts.
First, it sounds like you have a strong player, but realize the only
requirement to become a Tech Counselor is to have built an airplane and send
in the paperwork so there are no guarantees about the skill of who you are
getting.
Second, time is a valuable commodity so I'd suggest making the most out of
his/her time and not expect more than they are willing to give. Having said
that, I suspect most counselors enjoy looking at other projects and the time
spent doing so or they shouldn't have signed up to be one.
As for how to utilize them, I'd suggest steering them toward any areas you
have concerns over. Then just cut them loose to wander about the project
primarily as a second set of eyes to catch things you are too familiar with
to notice are wrong. They also tend to have experience with other types of
projects and can offer unique insight to particular problems or catch
something that doesn't quite make sense.
I have never heard of a bad experience with a Tech Counselor so I recommend
you continue the visits if possible. I'd take lots of notes and then decide
what items need to be tweaked as it's your machine and nothing he says is
mandatory.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: EAA Tech Counselor visit
I just had my first EAA Tech counselor visit. There's a guy in our local
EAA chapter that helps a lot of people out in the area - he really seemed to
know his stuff.
Question for the group - what kinds of experiences did you all have with
tech counselors and how would you recommend best working with them to get
the most out of it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great |
Parts!
Does Dave have a web site ?.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
Everything in the photo was $76 including shipping. Well worth it given the
quality. I understand he has more parts on the way too.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Walter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
Hi Jeff,
What was the cost to purchase the full collection of tail kit parts mentioned
?.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
I ordered and just received the collection of items Dave Czachorowski is
making for the -10 tail kit. It started with the trim cable anchor - now there
is a set of items.
Boy - these parts are nice. I just installed the HS Brackets he fabricated
and they're very well done.
Low-res photos attached
Jeff
HS Stabilizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great |
Parts!
It's www.rivethead-aero.com. I don't think these parts are on the site yet though.
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Walter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
Does Dave have a web site ?.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
Everything in the photo was $76 including shipping. Well worth it given the
quality. I understand he has more parts on the way too.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Walter
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:13 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit -
Great Parts!
Hi Jeff,
What was the cost to purchase the full collection of tail kit parts mentioned
?.
Paul Walter
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Just received Dave's Tail Kit for the Tail Kit - Great
Parts!
I ordered and just received the collection of items Dave Czachorowski is
making for the -10 tail kit. It started with the trim cable anchor - now there
is a set of items.
Boy - these parts are nice. I just installed the HS Brackets he fabricated
and they're very well done.
Low-res photos attached
Jeff
HS Stabilizer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | A prophesy mis read, maybe |
Thanks for all the suggestions on the glide slope issue.
Also, I absolutely loved the Yoda quote. Anyone who recites Star Wars
dialog is a okay by me!!!!
Unfortunately, we, like the Jedi, are a dying breed.
Did Obi Wan ever tell you what happened to you father...?No Luke, I am your
father.
Building break...Time to break out the Trilogy again, oh and the most recent
one I, IV, V and VI.
DNA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | EAA Tech Counselor visit |
Jeff, just a few thoughts from a non-Tech Counselor.
My tech counselor did what I had hoped he'd do, but at first I didn't know
what I wanted him to do. He first took a look at my basic techniques and
found areas that were wanting.
Consistent rivets was one such area, and probably is for every newbie. He
got some scrap and gave me a lesson, which I first I sort of didn't like. I
knew about the bad rivets, and I even had told him that I knew they were
bad, and I'd had already taken the EAA course in RV building. However, he
said something interesting as he began the demo. He said, and I paraphrase,
"It took me a long time before I was able to be consistent in my approach to
riveting and therefore in getting consistently good rivets, and my method
may not be what you end up doing, but I found that...." Then he popped off
some perfectly good rivets. I tried and got good rivets. He then did a
blasphemous thing! He drilled out my bad rivets! He didn't even ask me if
I wanted to keep them in! The nerve. Actually, I had not wanted to drill
them out because, I must admit, I was worried that I'd make things worse.
He showed me that it was easy, quick and the right thing to do. He drilled
out a few and then I tried.
We then looked at my edge deburring. He thought it was acceptable, but then
he showed me how he did his, and explained his rationale for the steps. His
technique produced better edges. We also discussed priming, preparation for
priming, tools that would be helpful, and so on. I ended up going from
defensive to grateful for all the time and effort he put into the visit. He
and his wife (she had come along and was doing work over on the couch that I
have in the hanger) then got back into his beautiful RV-6A (he's currently
building a 10) on a gorgeous day that they could have been somewhere else,
and flew off.
I am a much better builder for that visit, and highly recommend finding the
most anal of all tech counselors you can, because these are the folks who
will show you the small details that make everything so much better and
faster and more consistent. You may never be as detailed, but at least
you'll know how it can be done.
John Jessen
~328 (Tailcone and almost ready to go prime time with the web site)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: EAA Tech Counselor visit
Jeff,
Having been a Tech counselor, I'll offer some thoughts.
First, it sounds like you have a strong player, but realize the only
requirement to become a Tech Counselor is to have built an airplane and send
in the paperwork so there are no guarantees about the skill of who you are
getting.
Second, time is a valuable commodity so I'd suggest making the most out of
his/her time and not expect more than they are willing to give. Having said
that, I suspect most counselors enjoy looking at other projects and the time
spent doing so or they shouldn't have signed up to be one.
As for how to utilize them, I'd suggest steering them toward any areas you
have concerns over. Then just cut them loose to wander about the project
primarily as a second set of eyes to catch things you are too familiar with
to notice are wrong. They also tend to have experience with other types of
projects and can offer unique insight to particular problems or catch
something that doesn't quite make sense.
I have never heard of a bad experience with a Tech Counselor so I recommend
you continue the visits if possible. I'd take lots of notes and then decide
what items need to be tweaked as it's your machine and nothing he says is
mandatory.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 9:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: EAA Tech Counselor visit
I just had my first EAA Tech counselor visit. There's a guy in our local
EAA chapter that helps a lot of people out in the area - he really seemed to
know his stuff.
Question for the group - what kinds of experiences did you all have with
tech counselors and how would you recommend best working with them to get
the most out of it?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
I'm just starting the tail kit (finished rudder, VS, starting on HS) and I am a
long way from many final decisions on some equipment. However, it occurred to
me that if I do end up with an Autopilot I need to make that decision now. Don't
servos need to be installed in the tail to control pitch?
Do I need to decide on Autopilot manufacturer now or can I install generic components?
Jeff
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=3Djrdalton&project=3D120
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
Quite a good question, Jeff. With an easy answer. The pitch servo mounts at the
bellcrank which is just behind the baggage bulkhead, not way back in the tail.
So it is very accessible for installation and maintenance later. The plate
that holds the bellcrank is held in by machine screws so you can just unscrew
it to drill and mount the servo.
The story on the roll servo in the wing is similar. It bolts using a bracket that
is accessible via one of the inspection plates, and can be installed later.
The only trick that requires some advance planning is getting the wiring into
the wing before the bottom skin goes on.
It helps to make the decision about the autopilot early (and most other things
in the project, really, except perhaps panel avionics which keep changing from
month to month.)
-Dan Masys
#40448
> From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
> Date: 2006/02/23 Thu AM 11:11:47 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
>
> I'm just starting the tail kit (finished rudder, VS, starting on HS) and I am
a long way from many final decisions on some equipment. However, it occurred
to me that if I do end up with an Autopilot I need to make that decision now.
Don't servos need to be installed in the tail to control pitch?
>
> Do I need to decide on Autopilot manufacturer now or can I install generic components?
>
> Jeff
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=jrdalton&project=120
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EAA Tech Counselor visit |
A friend decided recently to build a RV-4. I had a completed RV-4 vertical
stabilizer setting around (don't know from where) which I gave him. The
rudder attach brackets had been drilled off.
His first task was to drill out the rivets holding in the rear spar so new
rudder attach brackets could be installed. Obviously, this wasn't much of a
gift.
He started on the rudder, recently. When a rivet didn't set properly, he
just drilled it out and installed a new rivet. He didn't give it a second
thought.
>From an A&P friend, I learned to just start to drill the rivet. Then check
to see that the drill point was centered. If it wasn't, cock the drill
sideways, and walk the drill point to the center. For skin and rib assemblies,
just drill through the head of the rivet, but not through the body. Then, with
a pair of pliers, pull the rivet tail out from the back side.
Jim Ayers
EAA Tech Councilor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
What else are guys/gals doing with the tail, though, that might need wiring?
Is it easier to put in some wires for now, before closing up the Cone, or
does it really matter? Clearly there are wires for the tail light. Might
be something for comm. ant. or ELT?
John Jessen
~328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
Quite a good question, Jeff. With an easy answer. The pitch servo mounts
at the bellcrank which is just behind the baggage bulkhead, not way back in
the tail. So it is very accessible for installation and maintenance later.
The plate that holds the bellcrank is held in by machine screws so you can
just unscrew it to drill and mount the servo.
The story on the roll servo in the wing is similar. It bolts using a bracket
that is accessible via one of the inspection plates, and can be installed
later. The only trick that requires some advance planning is getting the
wiring into the wing before the bottom skin goes on.
It helps to make the decision about the autopilot early (and most other
things in the project, really, except perhaps panel avionics which keep
changing from month to month.)
-Dan Masys
#40448
> From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
> Date: 2006/02/23 Thu AM 11:11:47 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
>
> I'm just starting the tail kit (finished rudder, VS, starting on HS) and I
am a long way from many final decisions on some equipment. However, it
occurred to me that if I do end up with an Autopilot I need to make that
decision now. Don't servos need to be installed in the tail to control
pitch?
>
> Do I need to decide on Autopilot manufacturer now or can I install generic
components?
>
> Jeff
> http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=jrdalton&project=120
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
I built mine and mounted after cabin was on. I am installing Blue Mountain.
Built mount for aileron and elevator. Installed aileron mount just before
closing bottom skin.
Jim
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Rick
Date: 02/23/06 10:58:59
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
John,
The servo mounts at the battery tray in the tail cone and is a bolt on unit.
You can wait till your ready to attach the taicone if you like but that's
still a ways off and access to that area is fairly easy even with the cone
attached.. The roll servo is very easy and can wait till your ready to do
the bottom skins even after for that matter. The only thing on the roll
servo is the bellcrank bracket is swapped out with one from Trutrak...of
course I am assuming your going Trutrack. I only have experience with that
manufac. Another system may be different.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
Jeff,
Vans incuded a bracket with the Fuselage Kit to mount the tru-track servo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
> From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
> Date: 2006/02/23 Thu AM 08:51:57 PST
> What else are guys/gals doing with the tail, though, that might need wiring?
> Is it easier to put in some wires for now, before closing up the Cone, or
> does it really matter? Clearly there are wires for the tail light. Might be
something for comm. ant. or ELT?
The only wires that run back there on my -7A are the tail strobe + nav light, the
elevator trim wires, and the ELT antenna coax cable. ELT antenna is mounted
horizontally under the empennage fairing. All of those wire runs can be routed
without much trouble after the tailcone is completed.
-Dan Masys
> John Jessen
> ~328
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
> Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 8:27 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
>
>
> Quite a good question, Jeff. With an easy answer. The pitch servo mounts
> at the bellcrank which is just behind the baggage bulkhead, not way back in
> the tail. So it is very accessible for installation and maintenance later.
> The plate that holds the bellcrank is held in by machine screws so you can
> just unscrew it to drill and mount the servo.
>
> The story on the roll servo in the wing is similar. It bolts using a bracket
> that is accessible via one of the inspection plates, and can be installed
> later. The only trick that requires some advance planning is getting the
> wiring into the wing before the bottom skin goes on.
>
> It helps to make the decision about the autopilot early (and most other
> things in the project, really, except perhaps panel avionics which keep
> changing from month to month.)
>
> -Dan Masys
> #40448
>
> > From: "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
> > Date: 2006/02/23 Thu AM 11:11:47 EST
> > To:
> > Subject: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
> >
> > I'm just starting the tail kit (finished rudder, VS, starting on HS) and I
> am a long way from many final decisions on some equipment. However, it
> occurred to me that if I do end up with an Autopilot I need to make that
> decision now. Don't servos need to be installed in the tail to control
> pitch?
> >
> > Do I need to decide on Autopilot manufacturer now or can I install generic
> components?
> >
> > Jeff
> > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=jrdalton&project=120
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Jim,
Where did you install your aileron mount?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
________________________________
From: Jim Wade [mailto:jwadejr(at)direcway.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
I built mine and mounted after cabin was on. I am installing Blue
Mountain. Built mount for aileron and elevator. Installed aileron mount
just before closing bottom skin.
Jim
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Rick <mailto:ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Date: 02/23/06 10:58:59
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
John,
The servo mounts at the battery tray in the tail cone and is a bolt on
unit. You can wait till your ready to attach the taicone if you like but
that's still a ways off and access to that area is fairly easy even with
the cone attached.. The roll servo is very easy and can wait till your
ready to do the bottom skins even after for that matter. The only thing
on the roll servo is the bellcrank bracket is swapped out with one from
Trutrak...of course I am assuming your going Trutrack. I only have
experience with that manufac. Another system may be different.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | New builder dumb question re Autopilot install |
Right wing in the bay the aileron push rod ends. Here's a pic of the mount I
built. It rivets right to the ribs.
-------Original Message-------
From: Conti, Rick
Date: 02/23/06 13:10:02
Subject: RE: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
Jim,
Where did you install your aileron mount?
Thank You
Rick Conti
office: 703-414-6141
cell: 571-215-6134
From: Jim Wade [mailto:jwadejr(at)direcway.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 12:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
I built mine and mounted after cabin was on. I am installing Blue Mountain.
Built mount for aileron and elevator. Installed aileron mount just before
closing bottom skin.
Jim
40383
-------Original Message-------
From: Rick
Date: 02/23/06 10:58:59
Subject: Re: RV10-List: New builder dumb question re Autopilot install
John,
The servo mounts at the battery tray in the tail cone and is a bolt on unit.
You can wait till your ready to attach the taicone if you like but that's
still a ways off and access to that area is fairly easy even with the cone
attached.. The roll servo is very easy and can wait till your ready to do
the bottom skins even after for that matter. The only thing on the roll
servo is the bellcrank bracket is swapped out with one from Trutrak...of
course I am assuming your going Trutrack. I only have experience with that
manufac. Another system may be different.
Rick S.
40185
Fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Fuse Side Skins |
We hung ours vertical resting against 2 2X4 at a height that allowed
easy access. Did the same for the tail cone.
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
On Feb 22, 2006, at 5:58 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> I'm about to start riveting the fuse side skins. Has anyone had
> any success backriveting these skins? If so, what is the trick for
> preventing damage to the ribs/floor panels while climbing around
> inside?
>
> If your are near this point, have a look at Rick Sked's fuse stand
> in Tim Olsons page under fuselage tips. Looks neat, easy to build
> and versatile. I had not noticed it before. I guess the only down
> side is the height is fixed.
>
> thanks in advance,
> Ron
> #187 fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riveting Fuse Side Skins |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hi Richard,
I'm intrigued. Can you shed some more light (a picture would be awesome)? Did
you suspend the fuse from the ceiling/rafter? If so, did you suspend from the
centre section spars?
thanks
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Reynolds
Sent: Friday, 24 February 2006 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting Fuse Side Skins
We hung ours vertical resting against 2 2X4 at a height that allowed easy access.
Did the same for the tail cone.
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
On Feb 22, 2006, at 5:58 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
G'day all,
I'm about to start riveting the fuse side skins. Has anyone had any success backriveting
these skins? If so, what is the trick for preventing damage to the
ribs/floor panels while climbing around inside?
If your are near this point, have a look at Rick Sked's fuse stand in Tim Olsons
page under fuselage tips. Looks neat, easy to build and versatile. I had not
noticed it before. I guess the only down side is the height is fixed.
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | FW: LED strobes, etc. |
All, I'm not looking to wire together my own nav lights that include the
strobe tube, so I asked Eric at Perihelion:
Rob,
(Sorry for the late reply).
I am planning a combo this Spring. No firm delivery date yet.
Regards,
Eric M. Jones
emjones(at)charter.net
www.PerihelionDesign.com
113 Brentwood Drive
Southbridge MA 01550-2705
(508) 764-2072
Eric,
I still check the sites consistently looking for anyone who will put
together a combo tail light/strobe for use specifically in the RV-10 as a
direct replacement for the System 6 Vans sells from Whelen. I really don't
want to have LED side posn lights and a filament tail light. I'm not in a
hurry but will probably buy the first set I see. Would like that to be you
as you support the matronics lists, AeroLectric readers, etc.
Rob Wright
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: LED strobes, etc. |
I just installed these. http://deemsrv10.com/decisions.html (scroll down
to the write up on the LED Nav & Strobes)
I found them on Vans Air Force site, and RV 7 builder made them, the
links are in the write-up if anybody's interested.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Robert G. Wright wrote:
> All, Im not looking to wire together my own nav lights that include
> the strobe tube, so I asked Eric at Perihelion:
>
> Rob,
>
> (Sorry for the late reply).
>
> I am planning a combo this Spring. No firm delivery date yet.
>
> Regards,
> Eric M. Jones
> emjones(at)charter.net
> www.PerihelionDesign.com <http://www.PerihelionDesign.com>
> 113 Brentwood Drive
> Southbridge MA 01550-2705
> (508) 764-2072
>
> Eric,
>
> I still check the sites consistently looking for anyone who will
> put together a combo tail light/strobe for use specifically in the
> RV-10 as a direct replacement for the System 6 Vans sells from
> Whelen. I really dont want to have LED side posn lights and a
> filament tail light. Im not in a hurry but will probably buy the
> first set I see. Would like that to be you as you support the
> matronics lists, AeroLectric readers, etc.
>
> Rob Wright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Chelton Recall |
For all with Cheltons.
The recall is for the AHRS units (not made by Chelton). I was at my avionics
shop on Monday and we discussed the issue. The manufacturer of the prior
units had significant quality control issues they could not resolve, so Chelton
has gone elsewhere.
The units already installed are being recalled (at no cost to the owners).
Others, like me, will have a little more delay in getting the new AHRS units.
Latest estimate is mid to latter part of March.
According to my avionics guy, these new units have a great track record and
should not give any problems.
By the way, the displays of my Cheltons was phenomenal (in the shop). I have
not had the chance to check them out in bright sunlight. Hopefully someone
else in the -10 bunch has them flying now and can provide assessment on
readability in bright sunlight??
grumpy
#40404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Anybody know if the rear seat cushions are included in the finish kit? Van's accessory
catalog offers them and implies that you don't get them with the finish
kit.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=14531#14531
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
Zack,
They are NOT in the finishing kit. I just ordered and received mine from
Van's.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seats
Anybody know if the rear seat cushions are included in the finish kit?
Van's accessory catalog offers them and implies that you don't get them with
the finish kit.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=14531#14531
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
They are not included in the kit. If you buy seat covers from Abby,
Cleavland, etc. they supply the rear cushions and you ship them the front
seats and front seat cushions. If you have them covered locally you need to
buy the rear seat cushions from Van's.
Russ Daves
#40044
----- Original Message -----
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 9:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear Seats
>
> Anybody know if the rear seat cushions are included in the finish kit?
> Van's accessory catalog offers them and implies that you don't get them
> with the finish kit.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=14531#14531
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Chelton AHRS recall viewpoint |
I thought I'd give my own customer side viewpoint regarding the
Chelton AHRS recall. Being a flying customer with the Chelton
system, I of course had an interest in the outcome from day one,
and now that information is public it's nice to be able to
talk about it a bit more.
Just so people who may not have paid attention know, the issue is
with the AHRS itself, made by Crossbow. Chelton has sold quite
a few of these units, but from the sound of it, they aren't really
that old. The 425EX has gone out to many customers. I'm not
sure of the numbers, but I'm sure it's in the many many tens,
or maybe near 100. There are other Crossbow units that are not
necessarily affected, such as the certified unit. From my flying
perspective of the AHRS, and from some of the benefits that the
425EX had, it was a very nice AHRS overall. Except, it suffers
from some sort of power related problem that causes it to not
always boot up. Even in my limited flying (just under 25 hours),
I've had the experience of it not booting on one flight. After
resetting it a couple times, it came to life. It never failed in
the air to this point, but that doesn't give me tons of confidence
in iteself. Performance wise, the 425EX was supposed to be superior
to the certified unit, because over time the experimental units were
able to be improved, but certification, well, kind of kills innovation.
Had it not been for this power problem, I'm sure the AHRS would have
served well for the builders. In my installation I found no
magnetic effects, it tracks perfect heading with my GNS480, and
everything seems to work very well, even in heavier banking
and quick pitch and roll changes.
With the AHRS problem, Chelton knew they were going to lose customer
trust in the entire system if the heart of the heading/attitude
info was compromised. We're building 4 place planes too, so we're
not just pilots risking their own lives. Families will fly in
these planes. So they wanted complete reliability. Apparently,
and here is where I start to lose more detail quickly, they found
another manufacturer that they worked with and got a far superior
AHRS. From what I understand, from a performance and reliability
standpoint, this new GADAHRS should be on par with carrier-class
systems from a reliability and performance stanpoint. I first read
some words leading to some of the benefits in Kitplanes a couple
months ago. The article messed up and said it was made by
Electronics Intl., which was incorrect...I think they were referring
to the new EIS that integrates with Chelton...if you want to spend
the $$$ on it. At any rate, I heard it there first. I kind of
wondered what would happen with mine. It sounded like the new one
would be superior in most ways, and I thought I'd be stuck with the
old. Then I relaxed and thought that as long as they fixed the
power problem, they still had a great AHRS, probably better than
what you'd find in most other EFIS systems. After a little while,
I got to speak with D2AV and learn a little about what they thought
of the new AHRS, and it sure sounds like it's got some phenomenal
performance. It also uses a remote magnetometer so that if you
want to mount the AHRS on the CG centerpoint or somewhere
convenient, you can, and move the magnetometer to some other location
away from magnetic disturbances. It has it's own Air data in it,
so you add a pitot and static line to it. It's supposed to be
self-leveling, so there's no need to worry about mounting location
tolerances and such. All in all, if it does anywhere near as well
as it sounds, it's going to be a great thing.
More recently, I got to speak with them again and heard that they
were planning to pull back all of the old Crossbow units....which
of course we all expected would be repaired. But then they added
that they would be sending the customers the new AHRS. I don't
have any idea of the actual total cost of the new unit, but from
conversations I've had, it sounds like it's well over $10K per
unit. Nice that they're willing to replace them even with that
price tag. Given the number of units sold, that makes it in the
neighborhood of $1,000,000 that they're eating to ensure they
have happy, and safe customers. The way I see it, any product could
be found to have an issue. What really matters is how it's dealt
with. We're "experimental", so we can't expect things to always
be 100%, but in the case of the AHRS, I can tell that's what they're
shooting for. It's probably a case of covering their a$$, but
since they're trying to protect mine too by replacing it, it earns
a few points. I'm not sure how many companies would be willing
to do all that.
I've spoken in the past about Chelton stuff as I was researching it.
You should know that I paid for my units like anyone else, and I have
no interest in promotion, but I'm duly impressed, especially after
flying behind it. The EFIS transition is going very well for me.
There are disappointments so far.....the GNS480 integration basically
isn't. That may change as the programmers get time. Currently
I'm working through why my TIS traffic display isn't being
passed on. One way or the other, the traffic will be made to work.
The GNS480 I *thought* was a big deal, but now that I'm flying
with what I have, I actually think I'm ok with non-integration.
It's now a totally separate backup, since it forced me to buy
a nice Mid-Continent MD200-306 CDI, which after calibration works
extremely well. The auto-tuning would be nice, but I'm finding
that I'm only using COM1 anyway...COM2 (the GNS480) is relegated
to picking up my AWOS so far. The EIS integration is very
nice. The response rate is super on both the EIS data and the
attitude data. The display is very readable in even bright light,
and the resolution is just what I wanted. If it only had digital
Jepp charts built it....oh well, there's always SOMETHING more. ;)
So anyway, I know I've gotten a couple emails from people wondering
if I was disappointed with the problems. No, not right now. In
a couple months I'll be flying IFR with it...would be nice to do
some enroute IFR on the way to Sun-N-Fun. Right now though, I
need more time with the unit so I'm not too disappointed. I think
they'll be targeting their flying customers for the new units first,
which would only be fair (of course I'd say that) for delivery
of the new GADAHRS. Once they get me mine, I plan to take a day
off from work and do an immediate swap. Having spent some
time behind my original system, I'll give some immediate feedback
on it. I would have spread a bit of news earlier, but when a
company like Chelton needs to deal with vendors and contracts and
customers, past, present, and future, it doesn't always do them
good to get rumors that may or may not turn out to be true out
in public. So, I just let it move forward hoping that it would
turn out OK for all of us. Sounds like it will.
Sorry so long.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Thanks guys!
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=14590#14590
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Fuse Side Skins |
Ron,
See attached pictures.
For the floor (RV-9A), I erected two vertical posts and clamped two
athwartship braces under the forward and aft spars. The floor is
clamped to the braces.
For the tailcone (RV-10), it was quicker to just set up a ladder and
use the tail hook to secure it, Put some padding on the ladder. The
bottom skin (J bars) had been completely back riveted before it was
assembled into the sides and tops. Leave room at the floor to get
inside. See the feet of person inside! The very aft end was finished
by putting the tailcone on some low saw horses. In the pictures, the
skins aft of F109? are still clecoed.
If you do not have room in the workshop, move outside for the hour or
so it takes to rivet the structure together,
Make your supports secure. Do not drop the assembly on the floor.
Richard Reynolds
Norfolk, VA
=EF=BF=BC=EF=BF=BC=EF=BF=BC
On Feb 23, 2006, at 6:02 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Hi Richard,
>
> I'm intrigued. Can you shed some more light (a picture would be
> awesome)? Did you suspend the fuse from the ceiling/rafter? If
> so, did you suspend from the centre section spars?
>
> thanks
> Ron
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-
> server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Reynolds
> Sent: Friday, 24 February 2006 9:12 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting Fuse Side Skins
>
> We hung ours vertical resting against 2 2X4 at a height that
> allowed easy access. Did the same for the tail cone.
>
> Richard Reynolds
> Norfolk, VA
>
>
> On Feb 22, 2006, at 5:58 PM, McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
>> G'day all,
>>
>> I'm about to start riveting the fuse side skins. Has anyone had
>> any success backriveting these skins? If so, what is the trick
>> for preventing damage to the ribs/floor panels while climbing
>> around inside?
>>
>> If your are near this point, have a look at Rick Sked's fuse stand
>> in Tim Olsons page under fuselage tips. Looks neat, easy to build
>> and versatile. I had not noticed it before. I guess the only
>> down side is the height is fixed.
>>
>> thanks in advance,
>> Ron
>> #187 fuse
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
Does anyone know if it is legal to mount a GPS antenna under a painted
fiberglass surface if the plane is to be flown IFR?
I'm considering mounting it on top of the vetical stab, under the fiberglass
fairing and want to find out if it's a legal location.
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #473
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
| From: | jesse(at)itecusa.org |
I can't answer technically, but from all I have read on this forum, in
experimental aircraft, this is a very big gray area even as far as flying
an experimental IFR. FYI, we have ours on the glare shield under the
windscreen and, although I am told that is not acceptable for certified
ifr flight, it should be fine for us. The main problem with putting it
back there is the amount of loss you will have in that distance of coax.
Our coax is about a foot long.
Jesse
>
> Does anyone know if it is legal to mount a GPS antenna under a painted
> fiberglass surface if the plane is to be flown IFR?
>
> I'm considering mounting it on top of the vetical stab, under the
> fiberglass
> fairing and want to find out if it's a legal location.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gesele #473
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
The problem you will have is the lenth of the coax.Accordding to Bob Archer gps
reception is affected significantlly by long ant wire runs. I mounted mine on
the glare shield.Works great
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
Does anyone know if it is legal to mount a GPS antenna under a painted
fiberglass surface if the plane is to be flown IFR?
I'm considering mounting it on top of the vetical stab, under the fiberglass
fairing and want to find out if it's a legal location.
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Wade <jwadejr(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
I plan to mount mine under the cowl on the firewall. Many have mounted there
with no problems. Wood or fiberglass does not affect signal strength. I
should not make any difference on IFR. I mounted one under the wood
structured roof of a Howard I restored, and it was legal IFR.
Jim 383
-------Original Message-------
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
Date: 02/24/06 11:38:42
Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
The problem you will have is the lenth of the coax.Accordding to Bob Archer
gps reception is affected significantlly by long ant wire runs. I mounted
mine on the glare shield.Works great
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net>
Subject: RV10-List: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question
Does anyone know if it is legal to mount a GPS antenna under a painted
fiberglass surface if the plane is to be flown IFR?
I'm considering mounting it on top of the vetical stab, under the fiberglass
fairing and want to find out if it's a legal location.
Thanks,
Tom Gesele #473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <lammers.david(at)mcleodusa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
Tom,
To be "legal" and use a GPS in the National Airspace (NAS) system under
IFR (even in experimental airplanes) the following apply:
1) The equipment must be TSO'd. for it's intended purpose (enroute,
approach, etc)
2) To keep the TSO valid, the equipment must be installed in accordance
with the manufacturer's installation instructions/requirements.
and 3) the installed system must be tested per the manufacturer's post
installation test procedure/requirements. ( you should document this in
your flight test documentation)
So how does this apply to your question?
A) If your equipment manufacturer has specific instructions on antenna
location then you must follow them.
B) If not, you are free to mount the antenna wherever you please but you
must test to, and pass, and record or document that you passed the
system tests.
Soooooooo--mount it under your (non-metallic) painted fiberglass
surface. If you pass the test--great--if not have another location in
your "hip pocket" and move the antenna.
PS: My Garmin antenna clearly says "do not paint" on it.
Dave Lammers
RV-6 flying
RV-10 tailcone
Tom Gesele wrote:
>
>Does anyone know if it is legal to mount a GPS antenna under a painted
>fiberglass surface if the plane is to be flown IFR?
>
>I'm considering mounting it on top of the vetical stab, under the fiberglass
>fairing and want to find out if it's a legal location.
>
>Thanks,
> Tom Gesele #473
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Text inserted by Panda Platinum 2005 Internet Security:
>
> This message has NOT been classified as spam. If it is unsolicited mail (spam), click on the following link to reclassify it: http://127.0.0.1:6083/Panda?ID=pav_20619&SPAM=true
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Wellenzohn <michael(at)wellenzohn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DDRT-2 Dimpler arrived |
I bought just the frontend of the dimpler while I was in the U.S. and my
uncle constructed the frame.
The plans are great and the Dimpler works perfectly fine.
Check it out some construction pictures in the tools section in the
builder log menu
www.wellenzohn.net
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (VS)
Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | Re: IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
>FYI, we have ours on the glare shield under the windscreen and,
>although I am told that is not acceptable for certified ifr
>flight, it should be fine for us.
Next time someone says some crap like this, just ask them to cite the reference
in FAR Part 23. I bet he won't find it.
The antenna placement and specification is usually in the TSO for the GPS by the
manufacturer and looking at the Garmin installation manual, any permanent location
with full view of the sky and adequate ground plane would do. Not sure
what GPS is used, but the nice think about Garmin GPS antennas is that they are
powered --even the portable ones! But for the panel mount units, I think when
Garmin designed these things, they had cabin class turboprops in mind, which
is why they originally came out only with 28 volt versions. I'm sure you could
have some awful long antenna coax cable runs in a King Air as you look for
an available spot outside the pressure vessel. So the VS tip should be fine
-even with the long (as far as RV standards) coax cable run.
Not sure where I'll put mine. Was thinking about just rear of the fiberglass cabin
top or under the cowling.
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Wellenzohn <michael(at)wellenzohn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DDRT-2 Dimpler arrived |
I bought just the frontend of the dimpler while I was in the U.S. and my
uncle constructed the frame.
The plans are great and the Dimpler works perfectly fine.
Check it out some construction pictures in the tools section in the
builder log menu
http://www.wellenzohn.net
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (VS)
Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug and Lynn Stone" <dlystone(at)cox.net> |
Some of you have been reporting a possible clearance issue between the valve stem
and the nose wheel fork. I laid my parts out on the table and started measuring.
Something didn't add up so I contacted MATCO, the manufacturer of the
wheel. This is their input:
"The NW501.25 is machined for use with an 1145 (Lamb) tire. It sounds like you
are trying to use a 5.00x5 tire and tube on it? The NW511.25 is designed for
the 5.00x5 tire which has a long valve stem. The NW511.25 has the valve entry
hole on the back half of the wheel to accommodate the longer stem of the 5.00x5
tube." (George Happ - MATCO Mfg.)
Passed this on to Van's and got this back from Gus:
"The NW501.25 has been used on ALL RV-10 finish kits, and is on all the flying
RV-10s, using the 5.00x5 tire and tube. The tires are essentially interchangeable;
several builders have used the smaller Lamb tire on the 5.00x5 main gear
of the two place airplanes. We don't use the 511.25 to avoid stocking two different
parts. The valve stem does come close to the fork. On ours, with a plastic
cap on the stem, the clearance is about 1/16. It probably may vary a little,
if it hits you might have to leave the cap off. " (Gus Funnell)
My comment: The correct part, MATCO NW511.25 is stocked by ACS and lists for $128.00.
Doug Stone
40263 - Cabin Cover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Merems" <merems(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DDRT-2 Dimpler arrived |
Michael,
Thank you for the update and the kind words.
Sincerely,
Paul Merems
ExperimentalAero
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Wellenzohn
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: DDRT-2 Dimpler arrived
I bought just the frontend of the dimpler while I was in the U.S. and my
uncle constructed the frame.
The plans are great and the Dimpler works perfectly fine.
Check it out some construction pictures in the tools section in the
builder log menu
www.wellenzohn.net
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (VS)
Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headliner rework |
Not Tim but....
I am using a light gray fabric (Marathon Collection Gray Mix) from Abby
at Flightline Interiors <http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/index.htm>. The
material is flame resistant. The specs say:
Flame Resistance
ASTM E-84 Class 1
CAL 117-E Passes
MVSS 302 Passes
UFAC Class 1
Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (MVSS) Flamability Test #302
Every yard of Marathon production receives the superior flame retardant
(FR) finish so it passes the MVSS 302 FR test which makes it suitable
for automotive aftermarket and transportation applications.
For the window edge treatment Abby's instructions say:
"The edge around the windows will need to be trimmed with a utility
knife or razor blades. To finish the edges you can use a hot soldering
iron to seal and smooth it. This will also prevent any fraying. We
recommend sealing the edge above the baggage door too."
Larry Rosen
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
John Testement wrote:
>
>Tim,
>
>What final fabric or material did you use for your headliner? Did you worry
>about fire retardant material? How did you finish the edges around the
>windows, etc. I am looking for materials now since I am about to attach my
>canopy.
>
>John Testement
>jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
>40321
>Richmond, VA
>QB Canopy and window trimming
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 1:40 PM
>To: RV10
>Subject: RV10-List: Headliner rework
>
>
>Forgot to add...if you're looking at doing a headliner and you followed my
>previous info, you will want to re-read and re-think that a bit. Don't use
>1/4" foam. A few days ago I tore out my headliner and plan to use fabric
>like those Colorado -10's used.
>It might be harder to install now with the canopy secured, but I'll take
>photos and let you know.
>
>Tim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Headliner rework |
Ahn used a molding around the windshield and windows as you can see on
his web site <http://www.geocities.com/anhvu_rv10/Fuselage3.html>
Ahn, do you have any details?
Larry Rosen
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> All of those fabrics she sells should be at least flame resistant
> to some point. Probably none of them are aviation certified,
> but you can make your own judements on what's acceptable in
> that regard. Sometimes it's just an on-paper certification
> difference, sometimes maybe it's not.
>
> But, just like Larry said, I soldered the edges with a fine-tip
> iron.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Larry Rosen wrote:
>
>>
>> Not Tim but....
>>
>> I am using a light gray fabric (Marathon Collection Gray Mix) from
>> Abby at Flightline Interiors
>> <http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/index.htm>. The material is flame
>> resistant. The specs say:
>> Flame Resistance
>> ASTM E-84 Class 1
>> CAL 117-E Passes
>> MVSS 302 Passes
>> UFAC Class 1
>>
>> Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (MVSS) Flamability Test #302
>> Every yard of Marathon production receives the superior flame
>> retardant (FR) finish so it passes the MVSS 302 FR test which makes
>> it suitable for automotive aftermarket and transportation applications.
>>
>> For the window edge treatment Abby's instructions say:
>> "The edge around the windows will need to be trimmed with a utility
>> knife or razor blades. To finish the edges you can use a hot
>> soldering iron to seal and smooth it. This will also prevent any
>> fraying. We recommend sealing the edge above the baggage door too."
>>
>> Larry Rosen
>> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
>>
>> John Testement wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> What final fabric or material did you use for your headliner? Did
>>> you worry
>>> about fire retardant material? How did you finish the edges around the
>>> windows, etc. I am looking for materials now since I am about to
>>> attach my
>>> canopy.
>>>
>>> John Testement
>>> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
>>> 40321
>>> Richmond, VA
>>> QB Canopy and window trimming
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 1:40 PM
>>> To: RV10
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Headliner rework
>>>
>>>
>>> Forgot to add...if you're looking at doing a headliner and you
>>> followed my
>>> previous info, you will want to re-read and re-think that a bit.
>>> Don't use
>>> 1/4" foam. A few days ago I tore out my headliner and plan to use
>>> fabric
>>> like those Colorado -10's used.
>>> It might be harder to install now with the canopy secured, but I'll
>>> take
>>> photos and let you know.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Headliner rework |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
[quote="LarryRosen"]Ahn used a molding around the windshield and windows as you
can see on
his web site
Ahn, do you have any details?
Larry Rosen
I visited Anh's Rv10 a couple of months ago. He has a very nice fabric on his
headliner (I forgot the name). I think he also has a closed cell foam behind
it. Not sure of the thinkness.
Anh did all of his sewing on the interior. He even did his seats. Beautiful
work. He even made a cell phone pocket on the side of his seats! Pretty cool.
Zack
See photos below.
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=14896#14896
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04092_524.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04084_657.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | IFR GPS Antenna Mounting Question |
As a follow-up, I sent the same inquiry to the manufacturer of the GPS I
plan on using, here's the response:
"So long as the antenna has a clear line of sight to the sky and is not
compromised by either the fuselage or the paint then it should be okay. I'd
strongly recommend that you test it in the desired position before making a
final commitment however. WAAS receivers are much more sensitive to
multi-path reflected signals and you may find that it has to be installed
outside on top."
Based on that, I'll likely be mounting the GPS antenna on top of the
fuselage someplace.
Thanks to all who replied..
Tom Gesele #473
>
> Does anyone know if it is legal to mount a GPS antenna under a painted
> fiberglass surface if the plane is to be flown IFR?
>
> I'm considering mounting it on top of the vetical stab, under the
> fiberglass
> fairing and want to find out if it's a legal location.
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gesele #473
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headliner rework |
>From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Headliner rework
>Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 07:20:51 -0500
>
>
>Ahn used a molding around the windshield and windows as you can see on his
>web site <http://www.geocities.com/anhvu_rv10/Fuselage3.html>
>
>Ahn, do you have any details?
>
>Larry Rosen
>
>Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>>All of those fabrics she sells should be at least flame resistant
>>to some point. Probably none of them are aviation certified,
>>but you can make your own judements on what's acceptable in
>>that regard. Sometimes it's just an on-paper certification
>>difference, sometimes maybe it's not.
>>
>>But, just like Larry said, I soldered the edges with a fine-tip
>>iron.
>>
>>Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
>>
>>
>>Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>Not Tim but....
>>>
>>>I am using a light gray fabric (Marathon Collection Gray Mix) from Abby
>>>at Flightline Interiors <http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/index.htm>. The
>>>material is flame resistant. The specs say:
>>>Flame Resistance
>>>ASTM E-84 Class 1
>>>CAL 117-E Passes
>>>MVSS 302 Passes
>>>UFAC Class 1
>>>
>>>Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (MVSS) Flamability Test #302
>>>Every yard of Marathon production receives the superior flame retardant
>>>(FR) finish so it passes the MVSS 302 FR test which makes it suitable for
>>>automotive aftermarket and transportation applications.
>>>
>>>For the window edge treatment Abby's instructions say:
>>>"The edge around the windows will need to be trimmed with a utility knife
>>>or razor blades. To finish the edges you can use a hot soldering iron to
>>>seal and smooth it. This will also prevent any fraying. We recommend
>>>sealing the edge above the baggage door too."
>>>
>>>Larry Rosen
>>><http://lrosen.nerv10.com>
>>>
>>>John Testement wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Tim,
>>>>
>>>>What final fabric or material did you use for your headliner? Did you
>>>>worry
>>>>about fire retardant material? How did you finish the edges around the
>>>>windows, etc. I am looking for materials now since I am about to attach
>>>>my
>>>>canopy.
>>>>
>>>>John Testement
>>>>jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
>>>>40321
>>>>Richmond, VA
>>>>QB Canopy and window trimming
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>>>>Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 1:40 PM
>>>>To: RV10
>>>>Subject: RV10-List: Headliner rework
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Forgot to add...if you're looking at doing a headliner and you followed
>>>>my
>>>>previous info, you will want to re-read and re-think that a bit. Don't
>>>>use
>>>>1/4" foam. A few days ago I tore out my headliner and plan to use
>>>>fabric
>>>>like those Colorado -10's used.
>>>>It might be harder to install now with the canopy secured, but I'll take
>>>>photos and let you know.
>>>>
>>>>Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
You say you want a reference for IFR or VFR GPS installations? Try:
AC20-130A. This Advisory Circular is the basis for not only GPS but
VLF/Omega and Loran-c. You will notice if you read it that the previously
mentioned criterion for approval are indeed valid. The final approval rests
with the FSDO. In the past the FAA has dodged questions of IFR operation
of experimental category aircraft, operating in a seemingly don't ask, don't
tell mode. My guess is that everyone will be happy until someone in an
experimental creates a problem in the system that causes an accident, then
the FAA tombstone regulation machine will kick into high gear. Suggest any
installation be installed and tested according to the guidance in the
circular to protect both of our buts.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Wessel" <robin.wessel(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install? |
I just reviewed Garmin's 2005 earnings report and they state that they
expect to grow their G1000 revenue 20% thru increased OEM and aftermarket
installs.
I wonder if "aftermarket" suggests that the G1000 will be available for the
RV-10? Affordability is an entirely different question.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 fuse
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: DuckWorks Landing Lights AND AOA |
| From: | "Jekyll" <rcitjh(at)aol.com> |
schmoboy(at)cox.net wrote:
>
> Ok, I have two DW HID landing light kits, one for each wing and I also
> have the AOA kit.
> Anyone else have this scenario where both the HID kit and the AOA are
> recommended in the outer most bay of the leading edge. It's seems I may
> have space problems between the HID mounting bracket and the AOA port
> location.
> Any suggestions from those out there that have the DW kits and the AOA?
> -Sean #40303
I installed both in a RV7 - no problemo. I was more concerned about airflow disruption
resulting from the cutout because of the warnings in the manual to ensure
a smooth flow. I emailed Rob Hickman and he said no worry. Cut away and put
both in the same bay. Mine were simple to install. I put a regular light in
front of the AoA but the HID would be no different. My other wing has a HID and
I put the power supply on the outboard side of the rib so it is easilly accessable
from the removeable wing tip and this, of course, would not interfere with
the AoA.
Jekyll
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=14971#14971
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install? |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
No, their Marketing VP in Salem said that all growth will be through
partnerships with OEM Certified Aircraft Manufacturers only. He
wouldn't even give a glimmer of hope. They have two new birds
undergoing Garmin cert at KSLE in Salem at this time.
John - KUAO
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Wessel
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 9:05 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install?
I just reviewed Garmin's 2005 earnings report and they state that they
expect to grow their G1000 revenue 20% thru increased OEM and
aftermarket installs.
I wonder if "aftermarket" suggests that the G1000 will be available for
the RV-10? Affordability is an entirely different question.
Robin Wessel
RV-10 fuse
Tigard, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Schaefer" <dwschaefer(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install? |
Not to be unexpected. I've found Garmin the most difficult of the companies
to deal with, even after spending thousands with them. They don't have the
slightest care about Experimental's, which is too bad considering I suspect
a bulk of the annual purchases of their avionics come from that market. I
don't understand why these companies don't have 'homebuilder' specific
departments with support etc. But, they continue to rake in our dollars,
primarily because of the lack of competition, so there is no reason to
change. I find it interesting that they come to Sun 'n Fun and Oshkosh to
ply their wares but that's where it ends.
On 2/25/06, John W. Cox wrote:
>
> No, their Marketing VP in Salem said that all growth will be through
> partnerships with OEM Certified Aircraft Manufacturers only. He wouldn't
> even give a glimmer of hope. They have two new birds undergoing Garmin cert
> at KSLE in Salem at this time.
>
>
> John - KUAO
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Robin Wessel
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 25, 2006 9:05 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Garmin G1000 for aftermarket install?
>
>
> I just reviewed Garmin's 2005 earnings report and they state that they
> expect to grow their G1000 revenue 20% thru increased OEM and aftermarket
> installs.
>
>
> I wonder if "aftermarket" suggests that the G1000 will be available for
> the RV-10? Affordability is an entirely different question.
>
>
> Robin Wessel
>
> RV-10 fuse
>
> Tigard, OR
>
>
--
David Schaefer
RV-6A N142DS "Geek One"
www.n142ds.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "sam.marlow" <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you shed some
light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15052#15052
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Where is a good resource for finding out if a various 540 engine styles are
convertible to the D4A5?
Rob #392
Does anyone have that 7.9mm drill that we can begin passing around for
shipping costs?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
Recommend flying before painting. You will be amazed at the "little
changes" you will want to do the first year - most of which will mar your
nice paint job.
Assuming you will do the painting, recommend removing the wings to paint.
The gain in ease far outweighs the 3-4 of hours of work to pull the wings.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (250 hours)
RV-10 (tail)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of sam.marlow
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Painting
For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you shed
some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15052#15052
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve Installation |
I am part way through installing my Andair EFS20f7f fuel valve. I got
the valve with a 6" extension and coupler. I do not think I will need
the coupler. I have updated my web site so you can see where I am at
and what the installation looks like. Here is the link to the details
of the installation so far
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>.
The valve mount is made out of .063 sheet and angle. It is connected to
the tunnel about 3 3/8" below the stock valve mount. This gives 2 1/4"
clearance between the new Andair valve mount and the rudder cable.
Hopefully this is enough room to get the scat tube through. The valve
is mounted with the inlets forward (opposite of what the plans call for)
so the right fuel tank feeds the right side of the valve and the left
fuel tank feeds the left side of the valve. Also, a 90 degree fitting
is required in lieu of the 45 degree fitting that the plans use (the
fittings are on order). I tried mounting the valve per the plans and
cross over the fuel lines, put the fittings were too close to the tunnel
and the bends were very difficult to make. This installation seems to
me to be much easier and well clear of any interferences.
Take a look and let me know what you think.
Will the scat tube clear?
Should I install a 90 degree bulk head fitting where the fuel lines
enter the tunnel in lieu of the 90 degree bend?
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve Installation Photo |
Attached is a photo of the installation. Hopefully small enough for
those on dial up. Link to more photos is
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation |
Larry, I used 90 degree bulkhead fittings where the fuel lines enter the
tunnel. This seemed to make installing the fuel lines easier. I'm not much
good at making good looking lines and this worked better for me.
Dick Sipp
#40065
.
>
> Take a look and let me know what you think.
> Will the scat tube clear?
> Should I install a 90 degree bulk head fitting where the fuel lines enter
> the tunnel in lieu of the 90 degree bend?
>
> --
>
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
sam.marlow wrote:
> For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you shed some
light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane before flying.
Here's my reason's...
First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be easier
with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with the wings off.
You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at once. Also, bugs
and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were horizontal. Then, if using
a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the clearcoat easier.
Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be without
a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds flying but not
you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the cowl meets
the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of airloads and the
hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and chipped the paint.
Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness of a
hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap will be
enough not to chip your paint.
I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting before flying.
Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15148#15148
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
I fully agree with Zack that you paint with the wings and the empennage
removed.
For my RV-8A, there were advantages to wait on painting until after flying
and working out the bugs. Here are a few things that I changed between
flying and painting:
1. Small weeping rivet on the one gas tank. Not enough to drip, but enough
to really irritate you as it would leave a green streak on the skin. Easy
to fix when taking the wing off for painting. Yes - I did a leak check when
building but this problem did not present itself.
2. Resetting the angle of incident on the horizontal stabilizer. I ended
up adding a .040 shim under the forward stabilizer spar as I was getting too
much down force. The shim turned out to be just the right size, but it was
enough that the empennage fairing did not fit so it had to be redone.
3. Rigging (and re-rigging). Many small changes done to dial the plane in.
One required replacing the one aileron mounting bracket. Although not
required, I chose to glass in the wing tip, aileron, flap, rudder and
elevator end ribs. Doing this after all the rigging adjustments and trials,
I had confidence that I would not have to redo this work after painting.
4. Replacing the static air ports. I started out with a combination heated
pitot tube (both static and dynamic ports in the tube). This arrangement
yielded a 200' altitude error, and indicated speed dropping to zero at very
high angles of attack.
5. One major redo on the main gear wheel pants mounting - required reglass
work.
6. One major redo on the main gear leg fairings - required reglass work.
I flew the plane for two years before painting. I did however paint all
fiberglass pieces with PPG Concept single stage paint (not base coat/clear
coat) so that the plane looked halfway decent. This was a simple, "one coat
of blue in the garage" job but it looked fine.
Zack is absolutely right however that you will be tempted never to paint it
after flying. These planes are way fun!
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 1:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Painting
sam.marlow wrote:
> For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you
shed some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane
before flying. Here's my reason's...
First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be
easier with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with the
wings off. You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at once.
Also, bugs and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were horizontal.
Then, if using a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the clearcoat
easier.
Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be
without a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds
flying but not you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the
cowl meets the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of
airloads and the hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and
chipped the paint.
Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness
of a hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap
will be enough not to chip your paint.
I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting
before flying. Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15148#15148
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy Lervold" <randy(at)romeolima.com> |
> sam.marlow wrote:
>> For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you
>> shed some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
>
>
> I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane
> before flying. Here's my reason's...
>
> First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be
> easier with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with
> the wings off. You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at
> once. Also, bugs and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were
> horizontal. Then, if using a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the
> clearcoat easier.
>
> Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be
> without a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds
> flying but not you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
>
> Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the
> cowl meets the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of
> airloads and the hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and
> chipped the paint.
>
> Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness
> of a hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap
> will be enough not to chip your paint.
>
> I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting
> before flying. Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
>
> Zack
I'm with Zack on all counts and plan to paint first in parts on my current
project (RV-3B) just like I did on my RV-8. Pay attention to what he says
about end clearance where fiberglass parts but up against something else.
Starting with 1/8" clearnace is a good rule of thumb because primer and
paint will decrease the final gap.
Randy Lervold
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Root Rib |
All,
I thought this question had been answered, but I could not find it in the archive
search. I am having a real hard time riveting the E-904 tip rib to the
elevator front spar (page 9-14 steo 5). I have a pneumatic squeezer and there
just isn't enough space to get it in there to squeeze. The body of it hits against
the rib and keeps it from squeezing perpendicular to the spar. Does anybody
have any good ideas on this?
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve Installation |
Here are the pictures of our Andair fuel selector mount; using Tim's
suggestion we left the tractor selector mount in place until our replacement
was fabricated and clecloed in place. Note that we have solved the problem
of removing the forward tunnel cover by splitting the aft end.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:55 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve Installation
>
> I am part way through installing my Andair EFS20f7f fuel valve. I got the
> valve with a 6" extension and coupler. I do not think I will need the
> coupler. I have updated my web site so you can see where I am at and what
> the installation looks like. Here is the link to the details of the
> installation so far
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>.
> The valve mount is made out of .063 sheet and angle. It is connected to
> the tunnel about 3 3/8" below the stock valve mount. This gives 2 1/4"
> clearance between the new Andair valve mount and the rudder cable.
> Hopefully this is enough room to get the scat tube through. The valve is
> mounted with the inlets forward (opposite of what the plans call for) so
> the right fuel tank feeds the right side of the valve and the left fuel
> tank feeds the left side of the valve. Also, a 90 degree fitting is
> required in lieu of the 45 degree fitting that the plans use (the fittings
> are on order). I tried mounting the valve per the plans and cross over
> the fuel lines, put the fittings were too close to the tunnel and the
> bends were very difficult to make. This installation seems to me to be
> much easier and well clear of any interferences.
> Take a look and let me know what you think.
> Will the scat tube clear?
> Should I install a 90 degree bulk head fitting where the fuel lines enter
> the tunnel in lieu of the 90 degree bend?
>
> --
>
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance |
I had my EAA Tech Advisor perform an inspection today and he noticed
something interesting that puzzles me too. The elevators are hanging on the
horizontal stabilizer with temporary pins and able to move freely. They are
not yet attached to each other and both of them settle in the down position
even if you manually move them to the up position. I have rechecked the
installation of the counterweights and it appears they are correct. Is this
normal? I thought, and so did my tech advisor, the elevators would be
balanced rather than fall to the down position.
Thanks,
Sean B.
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator balance |
Sean,
Actually, what you have is correct. You don't want them extremely heavy,
but purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter. In early my RV-6
you poured in a bunch of lead and then later drilled it out so as to achieve
a slightly tail low condition.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator balance
I had my EAA Tech Advisor perform an inspection today and he noticed
something interesting that puzzles me too. The elevators are hanging on the
horizontal stabilizer with temporary pins and able to move freely. They are
not yet attached to each other and both of them settle in the down position
even if you manually move them to the up position. I have rechecked the
installation of the counterweights and it appears they are correct. Is this
normal? I thought, and so did my tech advisor, the elevators would be
balanced rather than fall to the down position.
Thanks,
Sean B.
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator balance |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Marcus, at first blush my B#$%T meter hit full peg. At A & P school we
were required to trim every control surface to manufacturer
specification. That was always "Dead Nuts On". We were instructed to
always recheck after painting. Flutter is an important issue but I
cannot initially accept an unbalanced airfoil as a sound reason for
failure to balance. So I would like to know more about flutter from
balanced surfaces.
Others on the list please speak up and set me straight. Ken Scott, no
need to rehash your Flutter article from the RVator and why more speed
from an RV-10 is going to kill all of us. I am an inquiring mind who
wants more facts. Marcus, please don't take any offence by the query.
"I am looking for a definitive written aeronautical engineering quote
that supports (purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter)." My
needle is returning to normal now. Thanks for the vent.
John - $00.02
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:12 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator balance
Sean,
Actually, what you have is correct. You don't want them extremely
heavy, but purely balanced elevators will be prone to flutter. In early
my RV-6 you poured in a bunch of lead and then later drilled it out so
as to achieve a slightly tail low condition.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Blair
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 12:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator balance
I had my EAA Tech Advisor perform an inspection today and he noticed
something interesting that puzzles me too. The elevators are hanging on
the horizontal stabilizer with temporary pins and able to move freely.
They are not yet attached to each other and both of them settle in the
down position even if you manually move them to the up position. I have
rechecked the installation of the counterweights and it appears they are
correct. Is this normal? I thought, and so did my tech advisor, the
elevators would be balanced rather than fall to the down position.
Thanks,
Sean B.
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
If you use an extension and coupler you can orient the valve any way
you want. You would be able to rotate the FS20x3 45 degrees and still
have off to the rear, right to the right and left to the left. The
coupler (rotary adapter) consists of two parts each with a female socket
to accept the extruded extension tube. It allows one to orientate the
upper section differently with respect to the lower section. Nuts and
bolts are supplied to clamp each section together in the desired
position. You can see the adapter here
<http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html>
If I were to do it again I would get the valve with the new elbow (as
long as it can be rotated to point down) that will connect the flared
tubing for both inlets and the female NPT connection on the bottom. I
got the valve configured with all female NPT fittings because I thought
I would install it just like the stock vans valve. That did not work
out since the Andair valve is larger than the stock vans valves and I
had side wall interference issues.
I do believe connecting the fuel filter and fuel pump will be able to be
accomplished without interferences with the control mechanism. But this
area is tight, with lots of bends. No matter what the configuration
using tubing is going to be challenging. Flex hoses would be a great
solution, but IMHO I would prefer all aircraft grade components in the
installation of the fuel lines.
Larry Rosen
Sean Blair wrote:
>
>Thanks Tim. Knowing what you know now, would you choose the FS20X3 (180
>degrees) or FS20X7 (45 degrees) based on installation aspects? Also, male
>or female fittings?
>
>Sean B.
>#40225
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hugo rv10-40456 |
Hugo,
I am flying with a Trio EZ-Pilot single-axis autopilot in my RV-9A. I
don't have anything to compare it to, but it works well and I have
enjoyed using it so far. I saw it at Sun-n-Fun last year as well and
one of the features that I liked about it was the ability to put a
servo deactivate switch on the control stick. Hold the deactivate
switch down and point the plane at a new heading and when you release
the switch it will fly the new heading until you tell it to intercept
the original course.
I have it attached to a switch that lets me choose between the EFIS
and the GPS for control information. With the EFIS I can "steer" the
plane by moving the heading bug.
I have a lot of learning to do with the new system, but so far it has
performed to my expectations.
Regards,
Mike Schipper
RV-9A #90768 - Flying
www.my9a.com
On Feb 26, 2006, at 7:54 PM,
wrote:
>
> Hi, Hugo Here,riveting the tail cone.
> Does any body in the field use or intend to use a Trio Avionics AP,
> May be I was a little stupid order one without ask the questions
> first,any good or bad news regarding this product?.
> Las year at Sun&fun I see them,and personally liked,any opinion ?
> Thanks.
> Hugo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net |
Cc: zackrv8
Can the wing tips be installed before rigging the controls? How do you know where
to position the fiberglass tip faring if the wings have never been installed,
along with the ailerons and flaps? Don't get me wrong, I'm all for painting
first, but have concerns about having to redo the fiberglass tips once installed
on the airplane.
---- zackrv8 wrote:
>
>
> sam.marlow wrote:
> > For those of you that have finishd building an RV of any type, can you shed
some light on weather to assemble fully before or after painting?
>
>
> I have to disagree with Carl. I would certainly paint the whole plane before
flying. Here's my reason's...
>
> First, if you paint it yourself or have someone else paint, it will be easier
with the wings off. I highly recommend painting your wings with the wings
off. You mount them vertically you can work on both sides at once. Also, bugs
and dirt won't collect as easily as if the wings were horizontal. Then, if
using a 2 stage paint process, it makes sanding the clearcoat easier.
>
> Second, if you fly your plane and then decide to paint it, you will be without
a plane for awhile. This will drive you crazy! All your buds flying but
not you! You could go into "RV withdraw" symtoms.
>
> Third, the only thing I noticed on my RV8 was paint chipping where the cowl
meets the fuselage. I had too small a clearance and because of airloads and
the hingepin wearing, that nice tight gap I had closed up and chipped the paint.
>
> Just keep the distance from the cowl to the fuselage about the thickness of
a hacksaw blade and you should be fine. As the hingepins wear, the gap will
be enough not to chip your paint.
>
> I can't see any other problems that would preclude you from painting before
flying. Maybe Carl could elaborate more.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=15148#15148
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Andair Fuel Valve |
The flexible hoses are not aircraft grade? I thought you could get flexible
fuel hoses that are?
John Jessen
~328 (on the road and thus not building, darn)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Andair Fuel Valve
If you use an extension and coupler you can orient the valve any way you
want. You would be able to rotate the FS20x3 45 degrees and still have off
to the rear, right to the right and left to the left. The coupler (rotary
adapter) consists of two parts each with a female socket to accept the
extruded extension tube. It allows one to orientate the upper section
differently with respect to the lower section. Nuts and bolts are supplied
to clamp each section together in the desired position. You can see the
adapter here <http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html>
If I were to do it again I would get the valve with the new elbow (as long
as it can be rotated to point down) that will connect the flared tubing for
both inlets and the female NPT connection on the bottom. I got the valve
configured with all female NPT fittings because I thought I would install it
just like the stock vans valve. That did not work out since the Andair
valve is larger than the stock vans valves and I had side wall interference
issues.
I do believe connecting the fuel filter and fuel pump will be able to be
accomplished without interferences with the control mechanism. But this
area is tight, with lots of bends. No matter what the configuration using
tubing is going to be challenging. Flex hoses would be a great solution,
but IMHO I would prefer all aircraft grade components in the installation of
the fuel lines.
Larry Rosen
Sean Blair wrote:
>
>Thanks Tim. Knowing what you know now, would you choose the FS20X3 (180
>degrees) or FS20X7 (45 degrees) based on installation aspects? Also,
>male or female fittings?
>
>Sean B.
>#40225
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hugo rv10-40456 |
Thanks for the input ,now I'm fill more confortable, yes how you say ,I like the
features they offer,and the most interesting for me ,(without knowing the others
,)was the electrical engagements of the gears,
wich live the gears free from rotation when is not engaged, I like also the quality
of construction and the persons behind it.
Thanks again,Hugo
>
> From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
> Date: 2006/02/27 Mon PM 12:40:26 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Hugo rv10-40456
>
> Hugo,
>
> I am flying with a Trio EZ-Pilot single-axis autopilot in my RV-9A. I
> don't have anything to compare it to, but it works well and I have
> enjoyed using it so far. I saw it at Sun-n-Fun last year as well and
> one of the features that I liked about it was the ability to put a
> servo deactivate switch on the control stick. Hold the deactivate
> switch down and point the plane at a new heading and when you release
> the switch it will fly the new heading until you tell it to intercept
> the original course.
>
> I have it attached to a switch that lets me choose between the EFIS
> and the GPS for control information. With the EFIS I can "steer" the
> plane by moving the heading bug.
>
> I have a lot of learning to do with the new system, but so far it has
> performed to my expectations.
>
> Regards,
> Mike Schipper
> RV-9A #90768 - Flying
> www.my9a.com
>
>
> On Feb 26, 2006, at 7:54 PM,
> wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi, Hugo Here,riveting the tail cone.
> > Does any body in the field use or intend to use a Trio Avionics AP,
> > May be I was a little stupid order one without ask the questions
> > first,any good or bad news regarding this product?.
> > Las year at Sun&fun I see them,and personally liked,any opinion ?
> > Thanks.
> > Hugo
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
[quote="sam.marlow"]Can the wing tips be installed before rigging the controls?
How do you know where to position the fiberglass tip faring if the wings have
never been installed, along with the ailerons and flaps? Don't get me wrong,
I'm all for painting first, but have concerns about having to redo the fiberglass
tips once installed on the airplane.
---- zackrv8 wrote:
[quote]
Sam,
The wingtip installation will easier with the wings are off the plane. Here's
the reason....
By installing the wingtips when the wings are off makes the installation easier.
You will be cussing enough working with fiberglass so why not make it easier?
You can work on both sides of the wing tip easy. Plus, by mounting the
wing vertically, the wingtip uses gravity to nest/hold it in positon and the sides
won't sag.
Here's what I did. Have your wings in the cradle or some sort of jig mounted
vertically, trailing edge sticking up. Now mount your flaps and ailerons and
put them in the neutral position as called for in the plans. Now mount your
wingtips. Align the trailing edge of the wingtips with the trailing edges of
the flaps/ailerons. I used a very long straight edge and clamped it on my flaps/ailerons
trailng edges and aligned the tips like that. There. Your done.
No need to re-rig anything. Just hook up your control tubes after the wings
are mounted. Done.
You might want to consider having removable wingtips. Ya never know what you
want to put in there.
Work smarter, not harder.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18220#18220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Andair Fuel Valve |
Installed the rest of the fuel system, less the 90 degree elbows to
connect to the fuel valve and less the tubing connecting the flowscan
unit to the firewall forward. I need some more 3/8" tubing. Too much
rework :-) . Web site was updated
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/Fuel_lines/index.html>
Small photo attached.
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net |
Cc: zackrv8
Thanks, good info, clears up a lot of questions!
---- zackrv8 wrote:
>
> [quote="sam.marlow"]Can the wing tips be installed before rigging the controls?
How do you know where to position the fiberglass tip faring if the wings have
never been installed, along with the ailerons and flaps? Don't get me wrong,
I'm all for painting first, but have concerns about having to redo the fiberglass
tips once installed on the airplane.
> ---- zackrv8 wrote:
> [quote]
>
>
> Sam,
>
> The wingtip installation will easier with the wings are off the plane. Here's
the reason....
>
> By installing the wingtips when the wings are off makes the installation easier.
You will be cussing enough working with fiberglass so why not make it easier?
You can work on both sides of the wing tip easy. Plus, by mounting the
wing vertically, the wingtip uses gravity to nest/hold it in positon and the
sides won't sag.
>
> Here's what I did. Have your wings in the cradle or some sort of jig mounted
vertically, trailing edge sticking up. Now mount your flaps and ailerons and
put them in the neutral position as called for in the plans. Now mount your
wingtips. Align the trailing edge of the wingtips with the trailing edges of
the flaps/ailerons. I used a very long straight edge and clamped it on my flaps/ailerons
trailng edges and aligned the tips like that. There. Your done.
No need to re-rig anything. Just hook up your control tubes after the wings
are mounted. Done.
>
> You might want to consider having removable wingtips. Ya never know what you
want to put in there.
>
> Work smarter, not harder.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18220#18220
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
Dave, I was shown how to use a thin nose yoke that was ground down a fraction of
an inch. Using this I was able to squeeze the first rivet without a problem.
For the other side it took two of us, one to squeeze the rivet and one to flex
the spar just a hair. I was able to get the very edge of the yoke in the gap
and used the edge of a wide flush set on the manufactured head. I would squeeze
the rivet a hair and as it set I was able to get the yoke farther in the gap,
until I was able to fully set the rivet. Sounds more painful than it was. The
hard part will be finding the yoke.
Eric Kallio
40518
Tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=18243#18243
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator Root Rib |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EFDsteve(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator balance |
My first aborted attempt at aircraft building was the GP-4, an all wood
2-seater that allegedly cruises at 240 knots. On that plane, the designer
insists that the control surfaces be perfectly balanced, to the point that after
painting, holes were drilled into the lead counter balances to achieve the
balance. For what it's worth.
Steve Weinstock
40230
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you |
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The shop
heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look great.
The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not
-3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
"Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are
already drilled out with a #30 bit."
I haven't crossed this bridge yet, but what about the OOPS rivets?
Countersunk head, #30 shaft, a possibility? Maybe the drilled out hole
would be too big, but it might be worth trying it on one rivet to see how
it looks. My one question: are the countersinks for #30 as well?
Bruce
40018
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
I have some oops rivets. I'm just nervous about drilling out the -4's and making
the hole too big.
----- Original Message -----
From: bruce breckenridge
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 12:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you
"Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already
drilled out with a #30 bit."
I haven't crossed this bridge yet, but what about the OOPS rivets? Countersunk
head, #30 shaft, a possibility? Maybe the drilled out hole would be too big,
but it might be worth trying it on one rivet to see how it looks. My one
question: are the countersinks for #30 as well?
Bruce
40018
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
> If I'm you I will leave as it is,you will have plenty of time to re do the rudder,any
way you can't go 200 mph in the testing time,after is all done and you
flying ,order another one and build it.thats probably one of the low cost parts
in the plane,and the easiest to replace.
My opinion
Hugo
> From: "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
Cc: jeff(at)westcottpress.com
| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
>How do you squeeze or set the rivet on the lower right side of
>the rudder (You know the one).
>...
>
>Dave Leikam
>#40496
Used the 15000 bucking bar at the below link:
http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?action=ViewDetails&ItemID=380&Category=74
The small pointed end is great for tight spaces.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tough to set rudder rivet |
That bar, without some modification, will not fit that space.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Feb 28, 2006, at 11:15 AM, William wrote:
> >How do you squeeze or set the rivet on the lower right side of
> >the rudder (You know the one).
> >...
> >
> >Dave Leikam
> >#40496
>
> Used the 15000 bucking bar at the below link:
> http://www.yardstore.com/index.cfm?
> action=ViewDetails&ItemID=380&Category=74
>
> The small pointed end is great for tight spaces.
> William Curtis
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
I'd call Vans to see what they say before you go rebuilding the rudder.
I'm guessing that having 470s on the trailing edge won't make much of a difference.
Have you ever taken a look at a DC-3? There are round rivet heads ALL OVER
that thing. I realize they aren't the same but still.....
Post Vans reply if you call....
-Brian
N211BD
#40497
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Dalton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 8:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The
shop heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look
great. The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4,
not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
Jeff,
I don't see the #4 rivet size as being a problem, however, the universal head in
a countersunk hole is a problem. It reduces the bearing area to practically
nothing as the rivet can't fill the countersunk hole.
I suggest drilling out the holes. If the results don't look good than order new
parts.
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Jeff Dalton <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 9:29:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would you
do?
So I have this friend who is building an RV-10 ....
His helper did a perfect job on the trailing edge - perfectly straight. The shop
heads of the rivets are in the countesrunk hole, very consistent and look great.
The manufactured head of the rivets .... are ROUND. Yes, he put in universal
rivets instead of countersunk rivets. Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not
-3. In other words, the holes are already drilled out with a #30 bit.
Would you risk overdrilling the holes, drill out all the rivets, and replacing
them with flush rivets, or would you leave it (it looks fine) OR would you re-do
the entire rudder?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Tip du jour:
Avery have a Universal Head rivet removal tool (Part # 40053). I received mine
a few weeks ago and have used it to remove only a handful of rivets so far.
Although fairly pricey @ $75, I reckon it's invaluable. Builders starting out
will find setting 1/8" universal head rivets hard enough, removing them without
enlarging or totally destroying the hole can be even harder. This tool perfectly
centres the drill bit and sets the correct drill depth, the head snaps
off easily, and with a little backing support the rivet shank drives out with
a punch. The result is a hole that is as good as the original, enlarged only
by the expansion of the rivet when first set.
If you have a large number of universal head rivets to remove, like perhaps on
your trailing edge, or frequently remove dud uni head rivets, this tool is a godsend.
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dalton
Sent: Wednesday, 1 March 2006 4:40 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you
I have some oops rivets. I'm just nervous about drilling out the -4's and making
the hole too big.
----- Original Message -----
From: bruce <mailto:bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> breckenridge
Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2006 12:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would
you
"Worse yet, the rivets are -4, not -3. In other words, the holes are already drilled
out with a #30 bit."
I haven't crossed this bridge yet, but what about the OOPS rivets? Countersunk
head, #30 shaft, a possibility? Maybe the drilled out hole would be too big,
but it might be worth trying it on one rivet to see how it looks. My one question:
are the countersinks for #30 as well?
Bruce
40018
elevators
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | elevator trim tab hardware |
After fitting my clevis pins to the trim tab horns, I noticed that I'll not
be able to get all three washers on that the plans call for and still insert
the cotter pin. I figure that should be okay, as there'll be no play in the
system. Reason why I'm asking instead of just going ahead is that Van's has
been pretty good at stating Maximum or Minimum of ## washers if you're
allowed wiggle room. Any one handy to their airplane that's seen this and
has a fix?
Of course I could be reading the plans wrong, but I see them as stating that
all the washers go outside the horn tabs. I have no pic yet.
Rob #392
Emp attach
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
I once read in EAA's magazine "Sport Aviation" a quote I recite every time I make
a mistake.
"It's OK to make mistakes, that's a normal part of building, It's not a normal
part of building to disregard it and not correct them".
As you progress through this process you will make mistakes, in order to offset
that knot that occurs in your stomach when you do screw something up you need
to untie the knot by backing up and fixing your mistake I.A.W. the plans/designer/expert
intentions.
When I first read this post this morning I thought it was a joke as well. My first
knee jerk response was to advice your "friend" to call Cirrus and arrange
for a demo flight and reconsider building...that was a mean spirited thought
:)
My advice? Rebuild the rudder, but wait a few in a few months. You won't drill
out all those rivets without rounding out too many the holes in the ribs, skins
and trailing edge. Attend an EAA meeting and bring the rudder for show and tell.
It will make you feel a lot better after everyone tells you that's nuthin....you
should see what I did once...
Rick S.
40185
Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headliner rework |
Ahn,
How did you do your headliner - looks great! How did you trim the edges?
What foam/sound insulation did you use under the fabric, if any?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB canopy and windshield trim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 9:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Headliner rework
[quote="LarryRosen"]Ahn used a molding around the windshield and windows as
you can see on his web site
Ahn, do you have any details?
Larry Rosen
I visited Anh's Rv10 a couple of months ago. He has a very nice fabric on
his headliner (I forgot the name). I think he also has a closed cell foam
behind it. Not sure of the thinkness.
Anh did all of his sewing on the interior. He even did his seats.
Beautiful work. He even made a cell phone pocket on the side of his seats!
Pretty cool.
Zack
See photos below.
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=14896#14896
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04092_524.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04084_657.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Dalton" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what would |
you do?
Thanks for all the responses. I appreciate the advice - and I'm confused
about some of the more visceral reactions - I was just asking.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick" <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 2:05 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: I have a Friend who screwed up his rudder - what
would you do?
>
> I once read in EAA's magazine "Sport Aviation" a quote I recite every time
> I make a mistake.
>
>
> "It's OK to make mistakes, that's a normal part of building, It's not a
> normal part of building to disregard it and not correct them".
>
> As you progress through this process you will make mistakes, in order to
> offset that knot that occurs in your stomach when you do screw something
> up you need to untie the knot by backing up and fixing your mistake
> I.A.W. the plans/designer/expert intentions.
>
> When I first read this post this morning I thought it was a joke as well.
> My first knee jerk response was to advice your "friend" to call Cirrus and
> arrange for a demo flight and reconsider building...that was a mean
> spirited thought :)
>
> My advice? Rebuild the rudder, but wait a few in a few months. You won't
> drill out all those rivets without rounding out too many the holes in the
> ribs, skins and trailing edge. Attend an EAA meeting and bring the rudder
> for show and tell. It will make you feel a lot better after everyone tells
> you that's nuthin....you should see what I did once...
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: elevator trim tab hardware |
After flying my -6A for about four years, the hole in the trim tab horn started
to wear resulting is some freeplay in the tab. This is another way to get flutter,
a trim tab that floats.
I found a piece of steel brake line from my junk pile that had a 3/16 I.D. and
a very thin wall. Cut a piece about 3/32 long, drill out the trim tab hole
so it was a light press fit, used some JB Weld on the joint. Now it won't ever
wear. As I recall, it then took a thin washer on each side of the pin.
Bruce Patton
"Robert G. Wright" wrote:
After fitting my clevis pins to the trim tab horns, I noticed that
Ill not be able to get all three washers on that the plans call for and still
insert the cotter pin. I figure that should be okay, as therell be no play
in the system. Reason why Im asking instead of just going ahead is that Vans
has been pretty good at stating Maximum or Minimum of ## washers if youre allowed
wiggle room. Any one handy to their airplane thats seen this and has a
fix?
Of course I could be reading the plans wrong, but I see them as stating that
all the washers go outside the horn tabs. I have no pic yet.
Rob #392
Emp attach
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
I'm stumped (not a rare instance). I'm attaching the WD-1004 Nose Gear
Tension Fittings to the F-1048 Fwd Fusalage Ribs prior to riveting the
assemblies to the Firewall (Plans Sec 27-4 step 7). There are 50 AN470
AD 4-5 rivets that get set in this section . There are ALSO 8 AN470 AD
4-6 rivets that are the most forward (closest to the firewall) I can't
seem to figure a way to get a rivet gun on these 8 rivets, unless I move
the shop head to the other (inside) side of the rib. Anybody got have a
tip here?
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Deems,
You will have to trim the firewall stiffeners. Go up about 1" and over a 1/2" shaped
like a 30/60 triangle, and trim it enough to get your offset rivet set on
the head...it's a pain. I'll do a picture and email to you in a bit...dinner
time.
Rick S.
40185
Finishing kit inventory
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Folks,
Anh had to re-subscribe to this list and asked me to post the following message
for him. It's obvious that he uses his money for the RV10 and not a high
pixel camera! [Wink]
Also, I included some photos myself. The first is a seat cushion from a hangar
buddy of Anh's that is going in an RV6. It is beautifully done and Anh will
have to tell you where it was made 'cause I forgot! The last 3 shots are the
ones that Anh took.
Zack
I used 1/4" headliner from www.perfectfit.com that Tim Olson didn't have too much luck with. Same stuff Randy Debaw used except that his was 1/8". The fabric comes with the foam already stuck to it. I just sprayed the backside with 3M 90 (high temp) adhesive and stuck it on.
The material is 60" wide - not wide enough to install it length wise. So I installed
it width wise in two sections. The fwd section covers from the windscreen
to the aft edge of the door where that natural step is on the canopy top.
The aft section covers from there to the end of the baggage area.
I cut the edges 1/4" from where you want them to be leaving room for the molding
strips. I used a fresh razor blade and scissors sometimes.
I made molding strips out of the same material. Cut strips about 1 1/4" wide.
Fold it over with 1/4" overlap. Sew straight down the middle of the strip, over
the overlaping area, the entire length of the strip. The cross section of
the molding strips look like a figure 8. The straighter your stitches are the
better the molding strips will turn out. I threw away a few practice strips.
Cut off the excess material at the overlap area.
I brushed on adhesive material from www.Airtexinteriors.com and place the molding strips over the edges. one-half of it (the figure eight) goes around the edge against the fiberglass top where you had left 1/4" open when you trimmed it. The other half goes on the headliner edge itself to cover the cut.
Hope this helps,
Anh
#141
(Still waiting for Aerocraft panel - 6 months and counting)
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=19093#19093
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04096_225.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04085_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04083_857.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc04073_111.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ch49_007_125.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ch49_003_442.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ch49_000a_190.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
Cc: deemsdavis(at)cox.net, ricksked(at)earthlink.net
>You will have to trim the firewall stiffeners. Go up about 1"
>and over a 1/2" shaped like a 30/60 triangle, and trim it enough
>to get your offset rivet set on the head...it's a pain.
Whoa there! Before you go trimming firewall stiffeners, check on page 27-4, Step
7. Vans recommends you place the shop heads on the outboard side of the WD-1004
fitting. This recommended direction does not provide for the most finish
look, but I always try to place the manufacturers head on the thinner material.
In this case it is the F-1048-L/R. Vans rarely specifies the direction of
the rivet head but in this case they did.
If you look at my page at the below link, I did a compromise. I followed the recommendation
except the top three rows of rivets.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/08fuselage/fuselage03f.html
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: I'm stumped |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
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The entire body of the message was removed. Please
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
Deems,
Sorry I was thinking of a different area, William posted the correct respons to
double check your rivet direction. My mind is still bouncing after riveting the
1002/1003 to the lower forward longerons. That is where I was refering to regarding
the trimming of the stiffener. See later post for what I was thinking.
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | "Fighter Pilot Experience" |
Hi Listers...
This is a bit off topic, but I could use your help. My wife, bless
her heart, has given me a "Fighter Pilot Experience"... "six, g-
pulling dogfights" in a SIAI Marchetti SF260 out of Fullerton
California.
To her, I guess, the fact that I love to fly means that this would be
the ultimate sort of experience. To me, it's not that simple. My
attraction to flight has more to do with getting above all the
congestion down here on a cool clear winter morning and going
somewhere most other people can't go. It's about planning and
executing a good, safe, flight. It's about landing on the numbers.
I've spent some time inverted in a Super Decathalon over the Pacific
Ocean... did a few loops and rolls... and came away a bit airsick
with no urge to ever do that again.
I'm a 250 hour pilot. I haven't flown in six years. My life
insurance policy has a flying exclusion. I'm about 18 months in to
the construction of my RV-10 and imagine I'm looking at about another
3 years before it's ready to fly. I had planned to get current, get
my high performance endorsement and my instrument rating (as well as
a new life insurance policy) as I was finishing up the RV-10.
So, what can you tell me about the SIAI Marchetti SF260? Has anyone
had this "experience," or have any knowledge of these operations?
She's spent nearly $1,000.00 on the gift (a bunch of money for what
can't be more than 2 hours of flying time). I can trade the gift
(and burst my wife's bubble) for three days of sailing lessons down
in San Diego.
Any input is appreciated.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Thanks for the responses, now, if i could only learn to read............
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rick wrote:
>
>Deems,
>
>Sorry I was thinking of a different area, William posted the correct respons to
double check your rivet direction. My mind is still bouncing after riveting
the 1002/1003 to the lower forward longerons. That is where I was refering to
regarding the trimming of the stiffener. See later post for what I was thinking.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | I'm stumped - Again! |
OK, I told you its not a rare event !
William, rick, anybody, How did you get the 5 AN470 4-5 rivets that
attach the F-1039D Rudder pedal brace to the stiffener and the firewall
recess???? (sec 27-6) My 3x rivet gun won't fit inside of the recess.The
gusset and diagonal stiffener prohibit getting a back rivet set on them
from the aft side, I'm about ready to use some CS 4-4's and be done with
it. :'(
(Honest, I read the plans this time and I'm still stumped)
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | MSB Lycoming engines |
Just spotted this through the channels.
Worth investigating if you're not sure.
John 40315
"Lycoming Engines has released yet another mandatory Service Bulletin, MSB
569 related to the gradual phase-out of the suspected crankshafts. MSB is
applicable to certain models from Lycoming 360, 390, 540, 580, 720 series of
engines, manufactured, rebuilt, overhauled, or repaired after 01 March 1997.
Engines already compliant to Service Bulletin No. 552, SB 553, SB 566, or
Supp 1 to SB 566 are not likely to be affected by MSB 569."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | I'm stumped - Again! |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hi Deems,
I thought I was going to have problems there also, but I managed to shoot them
with the flush set. I have the Avery 3x gun, it does not need to fit into the
recess. You will need a bucking partner tho', so you can ensure the flush set
does not bounce around.
cheers,
Ron
still riveting side skins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, 3 March 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: I'm stumped - Again!
OK, I told you its not a rare event !
William, rick, anybody, How did you get the 5 AN470 4-5 rivets that
attach the F-1039D Rudder pedal brace to the stiffener and the firewall
recess???? (sec 27-6) My 3x rivet gun won't fit inside of the recess.The
gusset and diagonal stiffener prohibit getting a back rivet set on them
from the aft side, I'm about ready to use some CS 4-4's and be done with
it. :'(
(Honest, I read the plans this time and I'm still stumped)
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I'm stumped - Again! |
Deems,
Try the C-frame tool with the rivet gun attachment, you are talking about the row
of rivets above the recess and below the rudder pedal brace right?
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | I'm stumped - Again! |
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--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: "Fighter Pilot Experience" |
Hi Jeff,
>From what I've seen of the Fullerton operation, it looks well run. For
example, they avoid confrontations with GA and experimental aircraft.
The SF260 isn't quite the 6 G machine they indicate. It has a fairly high
wing loading, and appears to bleed speed quickly in a tight turn.
They actually perform fairly well. Only slightly slower with a lower climb
rate than an O-290 powered RV-3 (that was based in Corona and later in Long
Beach, CA.). :-)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 03/02/2006 11:07:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jeff(at)westcottpress.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Jeff Carpenter
Hi Listers...
This is a bit off topic, but I could use your help. My wife, bless
her heart, has given me a "Fighter Pilot Experience"... "six, g-
pulling dogfights" in a SIAI Marchetti SF260 out of Fullerton
California.
(Stuff Cut)
Any input is appreciated.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I'm stumped - Again! |
That worked, I used the swivel head flush set, with my wife bucking and
worked out fine, the one at the very top required finishing with the
double offset back rivet set, as the flush set got close enough to set
it, but not enough to flatten it appropriately.
THANKS
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> Hi Deems,
>
> I thought I was going to have problems there also, but I managed to
> shoot them with the flush set. I have the Avery 3x gun, it does not
> need to fit into the recess. You will need a bucking partner tho', so
> you can ensure the flush set does not bounce around.
>
> cheers,
> Ron
> still riveting side skins
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Friday, 3 March 2006 9:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: I'm stumped - Again!
>
>
> OK, I told you its not a rare event !
> William, rick, anybody, How did you get the 5 AN470 4-5 rivets that
> attach the F-1039D Rudder pedal brace to the stiffener and the firewall
> recess???? (sec 27-6) My 3x rivet gun won't fit inside of the recess.The
> gusset and diagonal stiffener prohibit getting a back rivet set on them
> from the aft side, I'm about ready to use some CS 4-4's and be done with
> it. :'(
>
>
> (Honest, I read the plans this time and I'm still stumped)
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
> ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
> support!
> ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
Cc: deemsdavis(at)cox.net
| Subject: | Re: I'm stumped - Again! |
>OK, I told you its not a rare event !
>William, rick, anybody, How did you get the 5 AN470 4-5 rivets
>that attach the F-1039D Rudder pedal brace to the stiffener and
>the firewall recess???? (sec 27-6)
We all get stumped from time to time. I used the Cleveland extra long 12 inch
back rivet set on these AN426AD4-5 rivets.
<http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=RSB12>
You can use this if you do not have the brake (F-6122-1 tri-gear or other) bracket
installed.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/08fuselage/fuselage03u.html
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave" <redflyer(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | "Fighter Pilot Experience" |
Jeff.
Only if she likes sailing. Otherwise spend $500 on a getaway with a spa and
$500 on parts for your -10.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: "Fighter Pilot Experience"
Hi Listers...
This is a bit off topic, but I could use your help. My wife, bless
her heart, has given me a "Fighter Pilot Experience"... "six, g-
pulling dogfights" in a SIAI Marchetti SF260 out of Fullerton
California.
To her, I guess, the fact that I love to fly means that this would be
the ultimate sort of experience. To me, it's not that simple. My
attraction to flight has more to do with getting above all the
congestion down here on a cool clear winter morning and going
somewhere most other people can't go. It's about planning and
executing a good, safe, flight. It's about landing on the numbers.
I've spent some time inverted in a Super Decathalon over the Pacific
Ocean... did a few loops and rolls... and came away a bit airsick
with no urge to ever do that again.
I'm a 250 hour pilot. I haven't flown in six years. My life
insurance policy has a flying exclusion. I'm about 18 months in to
the construction of my RV-10 and imagine I'm looking at about another
3 years before it's ready to fly. I had planned to get current, get
my high performance endorsement and my instrument rating (as well as
a new life insurance policy) as I was finishing up the RV-10.
So, what can you tell me about the SIAI Marchetti SF260? Has anyone
had this "experience," or have any knowledge of these operations?
She's spent nearly $1,000.00 on the gift (a bunch of money for what
can't be more than 2 hours of flying time). I can trade the gift
(and burst my wife's bubble) for three days of sailing lessons down
in San Diego.
Any input is appreciated.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Fighter Pilot Experience" |
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> Hi Listers...
>
> This is a bit off topic, but I could use your help. My wife, bless
> her heart, has given me a "Fighter Pilot Experience"... "six, g-
> pulling dogfights" in a SIAI Marchetti SF260 out of Fullerton
> California.
Sounds like she's a keeper! :-)
> To her, I guess, the fact that I love to fly means that this would be
> the ultimate sort of experience. To me, it's not that simple. My
> attraction to flight has more to do with getting above all the
> congestion down here on a cool clear winter morning and going
> somewhere most other people can't go. It's about planning and
> executing a good, safe, flight. It's about landing on the numbers.
> I've spent some time inverted in a Super Decathalon over the Pacific
> Ocean... did a few loops and rolls... and came away a bit airsick
> with no urge to ever do that again.
Well, lemme tell ya up front ..... I'm addicted to aerobatics, and so
I'm a little biased here. Think about your Decathlon ride. Who did all
the aerobatic flying .... you or the 'other guy'???? I'll be honest
here: If I'm a 'passenger' while someone else does the akro ..... I get
downright uncomfortable. Give me the reins though and it's a different
story.
> I'm a 250 hour pilot. I haven't flown in six years. My life
> insurance policy has a flying exclusion. I'm about 18 months in to
> the construction of my RV-10 and imagine I'm looking at about another
> 3 years before it's ready to fly. I had planned to get current, get
> my high performance endorsement and my instrument rating (as well as
> a new life insurance policy) as I was finishing up the RV-10.
The 'other guy' on your proposed flight is probably ex-military with
loads of experience pulling hard Gs in a G suit. Your insurance and
your low hours won't be a problem.
> So, what can you tell me about the SIAI Marchetti SF260?
It's a great airplane for exploring the nether regions of the flight
envelope.
> Has anyone had this "experience," or have any knowledge of these
> operations?
No experience, but some knowledge. You'll spend some time in a ground
school going over the fundamentals of aerial combat. Position is
everything. I love to 'dogfight'. It's exhilarating ..... but
frustrating when I'm up against a superior pilot and/or airplane! When
you're in the dogfight mode, you're concentrating so much on getting
behind the other airplane that I( doubt you'll have a problem with being
airsick.
> She's spent nearly $1,000.00 on the gift (a bunch of money for
> what can't be more than 2 hours of flying time). I can trade the
> gift (and burst my wife's bubble) for three days of sailing lessons
> down in San Diego.
Well, there's lots of things you can do with that grand. Buy stuff for
the -10 maybe. But, you'll do that anyway. From my comfortable chair,
I see that you have a couple of choices: You can talk it over with your
wife. I doubt if it'll burst her bubble is you tell her that a whole
bunch of guys on the list would love to take your place (in the combat
arena, of course!!!), but it's not for you. You can trade it in on a
very relaxing sailing experience ...... or you can bite the bullet and
go learn what our fighter pilots go through (or wish they could) when
they're up there fighting for their butt (and us too) .... and along the
way gather some experience that many of those holding a PPL never will.
Me?? I'd go for the combat ride .... but I told you, I'm biased.
Linn
> Any input is appreciated.
I suspect you'll get plenty of input. Jealous, all of them!!! :-D
>
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Fighter Pilot Experience" |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Take your wife with you as the "Backseat Ballast" with Mike Seager for
two days of transition training in an actual RV-10. It will help in the
build process, you can call it an investment. It will give you both
just as big of a thrill and with luck, he can use N410RV instead of
N220RV - thereby giving you the same 260hp kick.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: RV10-List: "Fighter Pilot Experience"
Hi Listers...
This is a bit off topic, but I could use your help. My wife, bless
her heart, has given me a "Fighter Pilot Experience"... "six, g-
pulling dogfights" in a SIAI Marchetti SF260 out of Fullerton
California.
To her, I guess, the fact that I love to fly means that this would be
the ultimate sort of experience. To me, it's not that simple. My
attraction to flight has more to do with getting above all the
congestion down here on a cool clear winter morning and going
somewhere most other people can't go. It's about planning and
executing a good, safe, flight. It's about landing on the numbers.
I've spent some time inverted in a Super Decathalon over the Pacific
Ocean... did a few loops and rolls... and came away a bit airsick
with no urge to ever do that again.
I'm a 250 hour pilot. I haven't flown in six years. My life
insurance policy has a flying exclusion. I'm about 18 months in to
the construction of my RV-10 and imagine I'm looking at about another
3 years before it's ready to fly. I had planned to get current, get
my high performance endorsement and my instrument rating (as well as
a new life insurance policy) as I was finishing up the RV-10.
So, what can you tell me about the SIAI Marchetti SF260? Has anyone
had this "experience," or have any knowledge of these operations?
She's spent nearly $1,000.00 on the gift (a bunch of money for what
can't be more than 2 hours of flying time). I can trade the gift
(and burst my wife's bubble) for three days of sailing lessons down
in San Diego.
Any input is appreciated.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top skin removal |
Not having arrived at this point yet I can't answer the original question but I'll
add a question of my own. With the wiring completed and the avionics installed
can you get access to re-rivet the top skin back on?
John Hasbrouck
#40264 starting fuse ( slo build )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Top skin removal |
| From: | "Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk)" <BSchroeder(at)uta.cog.ut.us> |
What about a removable panel, like the access panel under the wing,
weatherstripped, of course, for future access?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Top skin removal
Not having arrived at this point yet I can't answer the original
question but I'll add a question of my own. With the wiring completed
and the avionics installed can you get access to re-rivet the top skin
back on?
John Hasbrouck
#40264 starting fuse ( slo build )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Top skin removal |
| From: | "Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk)" <BSchroeder(at)uta.cog.ut.us> |
Sorry I was thinking of something else.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Top skin removal
Not having arrived at this point yet I can't answer the original
question but I'll add a question of my own. With the wiring completed
and the avionics installed can you get access to re-rivet the top skin
back on?
John Hasbrouck
#40264 starting fuse ( slo build )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Top skin removal |
This is what Dan Checkoway did on his RV-7. He cut 2 access panels into the upper
portion of that panel and raved about how glad he was that he did it.
Dave Hertner
----- Original Message -----
From: Schroeder, Bob (Parts Clerk)
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Top skin removal
What about a removable panel, like the access panel under the wing, weatherstripped,
of course, for future access?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 12:07 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Top skin removal
Not having arrived at this point yet I can't answer the original question but
I'll add a question of my own. With the wiring completed and the avionics installed
can you get access to re-rivet the top skin back on?
John Hasbrouck
#40264 starting fuse ( slo build )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Top skin removal |
I will attempt to answer both Ted's and John's question concerning the to skin
and ribs above the panel (There questions are set out below).
Unless you have glassed in the windshield there is no problem drilling out the
top skin above the panel and re-riveting it back on after the canopy is attached.
A more detailed example is given below Ted and John's questions.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hasbrouck
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Top skin removal
Not having arrived at this point yet I can't answer the original question but
I'll add a question of my own. With the wiring completed and the avionics installed
can you get access to re-rivet the top skin back on?
John Hasbrouck
#40264 starting fuse ( slo build )
Listers
I'm thinking of drilling off the top skin to give better access to the behind
the panel work. Has anyone done this or is there some reason why it would not
make life a lot easier for wiring and equipment installations.
My back hurts just thinking about the work that would need to be done while
lying under the panel.
Ted French
RV-10 fuselage
As has already been posted the QB fuselage comes with the top skin riveted
with temporary rivets. I first removed the panel and then after I drilled out
the top skin with ribs attached it opened up the complete front of the fuselage
to the firewall.
It was then pretty easy to install the brakes, rudders, fuel lines, wiring,
etc. I clecoed the top skin back on to fit the canopy but did not cleco it to
the firewall, nor did I install the panel. After fitting the canopy and bolting
it down for good I then cut and fitted the windshield.
I then removed the windshield and removed the top skin so I now have access
to the front of the fuselage below where the panel will be when I install the
panel. Tomorrow morning I am going to hang the engine without the top skin
installed.
Stein at SteinAir is building my panel and hopefully it will arrive completely
assembled in the next week or so. I will fit the top skin to the panel on
the work bench to check for rib clearance and then do any rib modifications that
might be needed.
Then I will reinstall the top skin and rivet it down and then install the panel
and finish up the panel wiring and cable runs to the engine.
Russ Daves
#40044 (Hope to fly in May)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sean Blair" <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | FW: RV-10 elevators |
Hey everyone,
I couldn't give it a rest and asked Van's for an official response
regarding the trailing edge heavy elevators. I think this is a very
good explanation from Gus at Van's.
Sean B.
#40225
-----Original Message-----
From: Gus Funnell [mailto:gusf(at)vansaircraft.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: RV-10 elevators
Check that you only trimmed 1 weight and that the fiberglass tips are
attached. If so, it will still be trailing edge heavy. The limit is 37.5
in/lb trailing edge heavy. What this means is that it is OK to have the
elevators on the RV-10 trailing edge heavy, to the point that it would
take 3.75lbs stationed 10" forward of the hinge line to balance them.
If it takes more than that (very unlikely), you need to add some
weight to the counterbalance. This is defined in section 15 page 2
which you may not have yet (comes in finish kit). This is not the
same as other RVs, hence the tech counselor's confusion.
Vans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | fuel sender units |
Having problems installing the fuel sender units in the QB wings. The folks who
built the wing didn't leave enough room between the fuel vent line and the wing
stiffner to allow the float to go easily all the way up to the skin. In other
words there is no clearance on either side. In addition it is hard, at least
for me, to see inside very well even with using a mirror thru the finger strainer
hole and a lite thru the drain hole. Could I cut down the length of the
float by 1/4 to 1/2 inch (which would provide clearance) and still have it
function properly? Or any other advice? Thank
Jay Rowe 40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel sender units |
Jay, I don't know if this will help but, I found that the way the fuel
sender units are mfg leaves room for variances between units. In my case
I had a @#$@ of a time getting the things to clear the stiffeners , what
I found was that the angle with which they were assembled (riveted
together) there was no way it would ever work (the other unit was OK), I
was able to adjust the angle of the sender unit and the float in
relation to the mounting bracket and the problem disappeared. The units
are put together with a single large rivet between them and in my case I
was able to make the adjustment.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jay Rowe wrote:
> Having problems installing the fuel sender units in the QB wings. The
> folks who built the wing didn't leave enough room between the fuel
> vent line and the wing stiffner to allow the float to go easily all
> the way up to the skin. In other words there is no clearance on either
> side. In addition it is hard, at least for me, to see inside very
> well even with using a mirror thru the finger strainer hole and a lite
> thru the drain hole. Could I cut down the length of the float by 1/4
> to 1/2 inch (which would provide clearance) and still have it function
> properly? Or any other advice? Thank
> Jay Rowe 40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Auto Racing seats - An Alternative? |
Has anyone looked into using auto racing seats instead of what van's
provides? These are pics from an Aus RV6 installation. I'm not sure how
they compare weight wise, but they are available in a number of colors
and options (lumbar spts, etc). From a brief google search it appears
you could get 4 of these already upholstered, for less than what van's
charges for their seats & foam sets and a 3rd party upholstery job.
your thoughts?
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel sender units |
Jay,
Getting the fuel level floats to there full travel in the quickbuild
wings is a tedious task. I have a write up on my web page that explains
how I installed them. You can find it here
<http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/FuelLevel/index.html>
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Jay Rowe wrote:
> Having problems installing the fuel sender units in the QB wings. The
> folks who built the wing didn't leave enough room between the fuel
> vent line and the wing stiffner to allow the float to go easily all
> the way up to the skin. In other words there is no clearance on either
> side. In addition it is hard, at least for me, to see inside very
> well even with using a mirror thru the finger strainer hole and a lite
> thru the drain hole. Could I cut down the length of the float by 1/4
> to 1/2 inch (which would provide clearance) and still have it function
> properly? Or any other advice? Thank
> Jay Rowe 40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Flightline Firewall Insullation - Sealing the edges |
To anyone that has used Flightline Interiors firewall insulation:
How did you seal the edges of the insulation?
Larry Rosen
#356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative? |
I did some preliminary investigation ; I can't remember which seats I
analyzed but your biggest problem is reengineering the mounts. For example
using other seats in the rear would require mounting them on top of the
rear seat bottoms in order to preserve the structure there. likewise in the
front a complete redesign of the mount. In my opinion would not be an easy
swap and the time , money and analysis would not be cost effective. Also
would probably be heavier than the Van design.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative?
>
> Has anyone looked into using auto racing seats instead of what van's
> provides? These are pics from an Aus RV6 installation. I'm not sure how
> they compare weight wise, but they are available in a number of colors and
> options (lumbar spts, etc). From a brief google search it appears you
> could get 4 of these already upholstered, for less than what van's charges
> for their seats & foam sets and a 3rd party upholstery job.
>
> your thoughts?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative? |
IIRC the seats are in the finish kit. You might find someone who has the
seats to look them over before deciding; additionally having the seats
covered locally is a very real option.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative?
>
> Has anyone looked into using auto racing seats instead of what van's
> provides? These are pics from an Aus RV6 installation. I'm not sure how
> they compare weight wise, but they are available in a number of colors and
> options (lumbar spts, etc). From a brief google search it appears you
> could get 4 of these already upholstered, for less than what van's charges
> for their seats & foam sets and a 3rd party upholstery job.
>
> your thoughts?
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline Firewall Insullation - Sealing the edges |
Larry,
I am using the orange high temp permatex. I think Tim used Proseal on his but I'm
not positive, he may chime in after me.
Rick S.
40185
Finishing kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flightline Firewall Insullation - Sealing the edges |
I was thinking of something like metal tape or duct tape. Didn't think
of permatex.
thanks
Rick wrote:
>
>Larry,
>
>I am using the orange high temp permatex. I think Tim used Proseal on his but
I'm not positive, he may chime in after me.
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Finishing kit
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel sender units |
Jay,
I followed the info on Larry Rosen's website and it worker great. I had a friend
use a piece of wood to stick in the sender hole and nudge the vent line over
to make enough space for the float to clear all the way to the top of the tank.
I also rotate the float 90 degrees to make it narrower.
DEAN
40449
Jay,
I followed the info on Larry Rosen's website and it worker great. I had a friend
use a piece of wood to stick in the sender hole and nudge the vent line over
to make enough space for the float to clear all the way to the top of the tank.
I also rotate the float 90 degrees to make it narrower.
DEAN
40449
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel sender units |
Larry,
The text on your web page is light brown on a dark brow background.
It is not readable. Is me or my mac?
Richard Reynolds
On Mar 4, 2006, at 11:44 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> Jay,
> Getting the fuel level floats to there full travel in the
> quickbuild wings is a tedious task. I have a write up on my web
> page that explains how I installed them. You can find it here
> <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/FuelLevel/index.html>
>
> Larry Rosen
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
> Jay Rowe wrote:
>
>
>> Having problems installing the fuel sender units in the QB wings.
>> The folks who built the wing didn't leave enough room between the
>> fuel vent line and the wing stiffner to allow the float to go
>> easily all the way up to the skin. In other words there is no
>> clearance on either side. In addition it is hard, at least for
>> me, to see inside very well even with using a mirror thru the
>> finger strainer hole and a lite thru the drain hole. Could I cut
>> down the length of the float by 1/4 to 1/2 inch (which would
>> provide clearance) and still have it function properly? Or any
>> other advice? Thank
>> Jay Rowe 40301
>>
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Auto Racing seats - An Alternative? |
I seem to remember a post saying Van's requires the purchase of his
seats (i.e.: if you buy the finish kit, you can't remove the seats from
the order). Due to the front seats sitting right over the spar, the
seats are designed to carry a high vertical g load. You may want to
talk with Van's before you do too much research.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 9:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative?
Has anyone looked into using auto racing seats instead of what van's
provides? These are pics from an Aus RV6 installation. I'm not sure how
they compare weight wise, but they are available in a number of colors
and options (lumbar spts, etc). From a brief google search it appears
you could get 4 of these already upholstered, for less than what van's
charges for their seats & foam sets and a 3rd party upholstery job.
your thoughts?
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative? |
I asked about this too because the Oregon Aero seats are so expensive. The
airplane was apparently designed specifically with those seats in mind for
safety reasons and using any other seats is NOT an option. The reasoning is
that you are sitting directly on top of the wing spar and any hard landing
forces get transferred straight up your back. I am pretty sure if you ask
them to hold the front seats from the finish kit order you will be told
no......you cant have the finish kit without them. No Recarro's for you!
Cheers.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative?
>
> I did some preliminary investigation ; I can't remember which seats I
> analyzed but your biggest problem is reengineering the mounts. For example
> using other seats in the rear would require mounting them on top of the
> rear seat bottoms in order to preserve the structure there. likewise in
the
> front a complete redesign of the mount. In my opinion would not be an
easy
> swap and the time , money and analysis would not be cost effective. Also
> would probably be heavier than the Van design.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:00 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Auto Racing seats - An Alternative?
>
>
> >
> > Has anyone looked into using auto racing seats instead of what van's
> > provides? These are pics from an Aus RV6 installation. I'm not sure how
> > they compare weight wise, but they are available in a number of colors
and
> > options (lumbar spts, etc). From a brief google search it appears you
> > could get 4 of these already upholstered, for less than what van's
charges
> > for their seats & foam sets and a 3rd party upholstery job.
> >
> > your thoughts?
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406
> > Fuse
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | fuel selector Andair |
Have included pictures what we have done to install Andair valve as supplied
by Vans and also solve the removal problem of the forward tunnel cover.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | FWF for Cont. IO-360 |
Any info on development of a FWF kit for the -10? I know Van's isn't
interested but wondered of the someone else was working on one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
I'm about to rivet the Mid Fuse Ribs (Section 26) and I'm a little confused
on what to dimple/CSK, or leave alone. Attached pic indicates what I think
is proper. Can anyone confirm or correct?
Thanks.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-442
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
Al, I just finished Sec 26 and benefitted from the dialogue on this
section that took place a couple of weeks ago. Here's what I've done,
.... so far.
F1004D,F1015B,F1005C - nothing so far, I'll wait til the side skins get
attached, hoping it will be more obvious/self apparent at the time.
F1015A - I dimpled all of the holes that match with the side skins
outlined in Sec 29-17 (these were #40 only) Sec 29-15 say's don't dimple
the #30's
F1018 - Ditto
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Albert Gardner wrote:
>I'm about to rivet the Mid Fuse Ribs (Section 26) and I'm a little confused
>on what to dimple/CSK, or leave alone. Attached pic indicates what I think
>is proper. Can anyone confirm or correct?
>Thanks.
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
>40-442
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
Albert, you seem to have it right to me except for the #30 holes in
F-1015A. They do not get dimpled at all the way I read it. See page 29-15
for the skin layout. I'm glad I looked at this as it would seem also that
the 3 holes behind the rear spar carry through-in the same row (in F-1018)
do get dimpled. I don't see those on your picture, you may want to look at
the side skin... I'm pretty sure you match drill those through the skin..
Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 3:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Mid Fuse Rib Dimples
> I'm about to rivet the Mid Fuse Ribs (Section 26) and I'm a little
confused
> on what to dimple/CSK, or leave alone. Attached pic indicates what I think
> is proper. Can anyone confirm or correct?
> Thanks.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
> 40-442
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | RG400 Coax Stripper |
For those of you using RG400 coax for your antennas, what stripping tool are
you using? What is a good buy?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB canopy and windshield trim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Mid Fuse Rib Dimples |
I got 3 feedback messages that corrected/clarified my understanding of
dimpling the mid-fuse ribs. Here is a corrected picture and the 3 messages
posted. Apparently all of this could be done in later steps but dimpling
F1015A and F1018 now is easier. Many thanks to those who have forged the
trail.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
Cheers..Evan Johnson
Albert, you seem to have it right to me except for the #30 holes in
F-1015A. They do not get dimpled at all the way I read it. See page 29-15
for the skin layout. I'm glad I looked at this as it would seem also that
the 3 holes behind the rear spar carry through-in the same row (in F-1018)
do get dimpled. I don't see those on your picture, you may want to look at
the side skin... I'm pretty sure you match drill those through the skin..
Deems Davis # 406
Al, I just finished Sec 26 and benefited from the dialogue on this
section that took place a couple of weeks ago. Here's what I've done,
.... so far. F1004D,F1015B,F1005C - nothing so far, I'll wait til the side
skins get attached, hoping it will be more obvious/self apparent at the
time. F1015A - I dimpled all of the holes that match with the side skins
outlined in Sec 29-17 (these were #40 only) Sec 29-15 say's don't dimple the
#30's
F1018 - Ditto
PJ Seipel
Albert, You don't want to dimple the #30 holes in the F-1015A because those
don't get dimpled in the skin (29-15). Don't countersink the F1004D because
it gets covered up by the F-1004K (28-9 Fig 1). Page 29-15 is helpful too.
For what it's worth, I didn't dimple anything at the step you're on. I did
it all right before I put on the side skins. At that point it's
real easy to see what needs to get dimpled/countersunk. The only thing I
wish I would have dimpled ahead of time was the #40 holes in the F-1015A
excluding the joggles and the F-1018. If you wait, then you need a #40 3/8"
(little) pop rivet die for the holes along the bottom of the rib. Oh, and
don't put the nutplates on the F-1076 bottom skin (26-7 figure 1) yet. They
make it really hard to get the side skins on.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RG400 Coax Stripper |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 10:47 AM
Subject: RV10-List: RG400 Coax Stripper
For those of you using RG400 coax for your antennas, what stripping tool are you
using? What is a good buy?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB canopy and windshield trim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RG400 Coax Stripper |
From my Aero Electric list archives
Robert L. Nuckolls, III writes:
Comments/Questions: Bob: I want a top notch Coaxial stripper for RG 400.
What do you suggest? Have a good New Year. John
Here's my personal favorite. I stock these to give
away as part of the door prize pool at my seminars.
http://www.gilchrist-electric.com/3-blade-coax-cable-strip.html
You can purchase these off Ebay or directly from Gilchrist.
Bob . . .
-----------------------------------------
( Experience and common sense cannot be )
( replaced with policy and procedures. )
( R. L. Nuckolls III )
-----------------------------------------
Larry Rosen
#356
Fuselage (finish kit to arrive next week)
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com wrote:
> For those of you using RG400 coax for your antennas, what stripping
> tool are you using? What is a good buy?
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> QB canopy and windshield trim
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts |
Looking at the plans, it appears the wire nuts that hold the push cable to
the cabin heat vents come attached. I haven't been able to find the nuts,
reference to part numbers or a place in the plans that instructs you to
attach them. Any help locating these pieces would be much appreciated.
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
I am trying to finalize my paint scheme (not that I'm ready to paint for a
while!) and am considering using a light cream instead of the standard white
for the base coat. I don't want to go too dark, my first airplane (a Q2)
was painted a light tan since I didn't want to go Long-EZ white or the
standard Q2 yellow, but managed to unintentionally match the haze in Phoenix
exactly making it impossible for the tower to see me until short final.
Aside from "it's just different", are there any other reasons to avoid
cream? My only other immediate thought is it might be tougher to color
match down the road following repairs.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Debbie Dewey" <n4539p(at)charter.net> |
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in the air
in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and quiet. Everything
worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts |
I just checked my un-installed heater vents and there are no wire nuts
attached. Can't help if you mean not installed to the push cable. My
finish kit arrives next week.
Larry
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>Looking at the plans, it appears the wire nuts that hold the push cable to
>the cabin heat vents come attached. I haven't been able to find the nuts,
>reference to part numbers or a place in the plans that instructs you to
>attach them. Any help locating these pieces would be much appreciated.
>
>Marcus
>40286
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RG400 Coax Stripper |
FYI found this on the AeroElectric Connection on how to us a 3-blade
Coax Stripper
<http://aeroelectric.com/articles/Coax_Stripper/coaxstrip.html>
Larry
(who should be working on the plane and not surfing the net)
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> From my Aero Electric list archives
>
> Robert L. Nuckolls, III writes:
>
> Comments/Questions: Bob: I want a top notch Coaxial stripper for RG
> 400. What do you suggest? Have a good New Year. John
>
>
> Here's my personal favorite. I stock these to give
> away as part of the door prize pool at my seminars.
>
> http://www.gilchrist-electric.com/3-blade-coax-cable-strip.html
>
> You can purchase these off Ebay or directly from Gilchrist.
>
> Bob . . .
>
> -----------------------------------------
> ( Experience and common sense cannot be )
> ( replaced with policy and procedures. )
> ( R. L. Nuckolls III )
> -----------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
Congratulations!!!! Have to like the consistency of the successful first
flights without a hitch. Pictures when able would be great.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Debbie Dewey
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 9:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in the
air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and quiet.
Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Howe" <mikemb(at)aros.net> |
I am really excited to see pictures and talk to you. Send some as soon
as you can. I posted the message on the FTLPA website discussion page.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Debbie Dewey
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 7:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in
the air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and
quiet. Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | fuel selector Andair |
I just finished my install this weekend of the fuel valve with the extension
from Andair. Went smooth and pain free. I left the original bracket in place
so I can mount the valve under the center console for easy access. I got my
valve from Neal George (334-262-8993). He had the 90deg valves in stock with
extensions, got em in a couple days. I am always impressed with the quality
of Andair valves and the extension is designed and made well. You can't just
order the extension to put on a regular valve as the red pointer and top
plate is different from the original. It's a kit, six pieces plus the valve.
Steve DiNieri
N221rv
N231rv
N331rv res
If you want the valve in the same location as original you'll need to
get the extension kit for the handle. The interference issues listed
below can be worked out but when you add in the 2" SCAT for the rear
heat it becomes unworkable without relocation and/or the valve
extension. Tim Olson has several good pictures of the valve with
extension on his website and my installation is almost identical.
Bob #40105
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Elevator Trailing Edge |
All,
I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick question. I plan
on using the angle iron method (I made a nice proseal mess doing it the Van's
way for the rudder) and was wondering about the direction of the rivets.
Did everyone set all of the rivets in the same direction so the shop head was
on the bottom side or did you still alternate them? I would rather have the shop
heads hidden on the bottom but not if there is going to be a problem with
it hooking. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator Trailing Edge |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
I alternated mine on all of the trailing edges (Rudder, el, flaps & ailerons).
All came out straight as a die. You can fill the void on the shop head if you
are really concerned.
cheers,
Ron
#187 fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Shawn Moon
Sent: Tuesday, 7 March 2006 2:23 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Trailing Edge
All,
I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick question. I plan
on using the angle iron method (I made a nice proseal mess doing it the Van's
way for the rudder) and was wondering about the direction of the rivets.
Did everyone set all of the rivets in the same direction so the shop head was
on the bottom side or did you still alternate them? I would rather have the shop
heads hidden on the bottom but not if there is going to be a problem with
it hooking. Thanks.
--Shawn
40366
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trailing Edge |
I went same side all the way down using the angle iron method. Came
out fine.
Choice is yours.
-Sean #40303 (wing bottom skins)
On Mar 6, 2006, at 8:53 PM, Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick
> question. I plan on using the angle iron method (I made a nice
> proseal mess doing it the Van's way for the rudder) and was
> wondering about the direction of the rivets. Did everyone set all
> of the rivets in the same direction so the shop head was on the
> bottom side or did you still alternate them? I would rather have
> the shop heads hidden on the bottom but not if there is going to be
> a problem with it hooking. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trailing Edge |
I alternated them.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
Shawn Moon wrote:
> All,
> I am about to do my elevator trailing edges and have a quick
> question. I plan on using the angle iron method (I made a nice
> proseal mess doing it the Van's way for the rudder) and was wondering
> about the direction of the rivets. Did everyone set all of the rivets
> in the same direction so the shop head was on the bottom side or did
> you still alternate them? I would rather have the shop heads hidden
> on the bottom but not if there is going to be a problem with it
> hooking. Thanks.
>
> --Shawn
> 40366
>
> <http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=39174/*http://photomail.mail.yahoo.com>
> makes sharing a breeze.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Congratulations.
#330 built in a year. Wow.
Larry Rosen
#40356
Debbie Dewey wrote:
> N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in
> the air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth
> and quiet. Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these
> hours.
> Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
> Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trailing Edge |
I put them all in with the shop head down.
This evens out the score. 2 alternating - 2 shop head down. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts |
Marcus,
I had the same problem locating them. I thought I made a note in plans but
I didn't. They did eventually turn up so they're there in one of the brown
bags.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Heat Cable Wire Nuts
>
>
> Looking at the plans, it appears the wire nuts that hold the push cable to
> the cabin heat vents come attached. I haven't been able to find the nuts,
> reference to part numbers or a place in the plans that instructs you to
> attach them. Any help locating these pieces would be much appreciated.
>
> Marcus
> 40286
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Hello Debbie & Jim,
Congratulations on your first flight. I'm sure that has to be a great feeling after
all those long hours of work. My number is 40336, so hopefully I'm not too
far behind you. I building in Justin, TX at Prop Wash. Fly in some time and
let me take a look at it and maybe talk you into a ride :>}
Again congratulations
Wayne Edgerton 40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
I like the smooth and quiet part.....which engine/prop combo are you using? Mufflers?
Cheers..
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: Debbie Dewey
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 6:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in the air
in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and quiet. Everything
worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Congratulation from N610RV. It is nice to here of the first flight.
Good work you two. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Debbie Dewey
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 6:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in
the air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and
quiet. Everything worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com> |
Jim,
Glad to see you completed and flying. Hope you'll come by and see us at Sun-N-Fun.
Booth space #N-38 outdoors.
John and Harold
Flightline AC Inc.
541-330-5466
Randy DeBauw wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Congratulation from N610RV.
It is nice to here of the first flight. Good work you two. Randy
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Debbie Dewey
Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 6:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight
N533JD (RV-10 #40330) flew today!!! Signed off in the morning and in the
air in the afternoon. What a great flying airplane, very smooth and quiet. Everything
worked perfect. Will enjoy flying off these hours.
Debbie Dewey / Jim Erskine
Granbury, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | seanblair(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | typo on plans 27-2 |
I noticed a discepency in the plans on 27-2. The F-1001J-L and R Longeron Gussets
call out for 470 rivets on the left and 426 rivets on the right. Van's confirms
they both should be 470's. Doesn't really matter either way, but could
save a little work.
Sean B.
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DOUGPFLYRV(at)AOL.COM |
That is the engine I ordered after looking at several options. I feel that
is the best bang for the buck.
Doug Preston
#40372
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Coax reqts and antenna placement |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
I'm about to order coax for the antennas. Any recommendations on a convenient
qty? RG400 or RG58 or other? Config will be:
Archer navs in each wingtip
bent whip on bottom
stright whip on top behind lid
XPDR on bottom fwd fuse
Any additional considerations on antenna placement? I'm not familiar with the
exhaust configuration - are there any antenna locs to NOT use to avoid exhaust
outflow? Any shadowing issues with gear legs etc ?
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Planned or Future Wing Removal - Connections at wing root |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Attaching the wings looks like it might be a significant job on the -10. Removing
and re-installing is not something that I would look forward to. What do
listers really think the probability of removing a wing is likely to be, once
the plane is finished and flying? Currently mulling over the REAL need for electrical
connectors at the wing roots.
cheers,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Planned or Future Wing Removal - Connections at wi ng |
root
I've been lurking on these lists for years, but I've never sent a message
until now - I couldn't resist :-)
I'm currently building an RV-10 and removal/installation of RV-10 wings is
easy, in my opinion. I am biased though, because I built an RV-6A and it is
a lot more difficult to install its wings because it uses ~ 76 bolts and the
landing gear must be removed with it.
Removal of the wings is unlikely once flying, though unless you want to
remove them for painting or you have trouble and need to land off-airport.
Personally, I'm going to install wiring connectors in the wing root just to
make it easier when I do remove the wings.
Kevin D. Belue
RV-6A Flying
RV-10 Fuselage/Finish kit
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 4:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Planned or Future Wing Removal - Connections at wing
root
Attaching the wings looks like it might be a significant job on the -10.
Removing and re-installing is not something that I would look forward to.
What do listers really think the probability of removing a wing is likely to
be, once the plane is finished and flying? Currently mulling over the REAL
need for electrical connectors at the wing roots.
cheers,
Ron
INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS EMAIL MAY BE DRS PROPRIETARY/COMPETITION
SENSITIVE AND IS ONLY INTENDED FOR THE ADDRESSEE OF THIS EMAIL
THIS DOCUMENT AND/OR SHIPMENT MAY CONTAIN COMMODITY ITEMS, SOFTWARE OR
TECHNICAL DATA THAT IS CONTROLLED BY U.S. EXPORT LAW, AND MAY NOT BE
EXPORTED OUTSIDE THE UNITED STATES OR TO NON U.S. PERSONS WITHOUT THE
APPROPRIATE EXPORT LICENSE FROM EITHER THE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF STATE OR
DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE.
http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40">
I've been lurking on these lists for
years, but I've never sent a message until now - I couldn't
resist J
I'm currently building an RV-10 and
removal/installation of RV-10 wings is easy, in my opinion. I am biased though,
because I built an RV-6A and it is a lot more difficult to install its wings
because it uses ~ 76 bolts and the landing gear must be removed with it.
Removal of the wings is unlikely once
flying, though unless you want to remove them for painting or you have trouble
and need to land off-airport. Personally, I'm going to install wiring
connectors in the wing root just to make it easier when I do remove the wings.
Kevin D. Belue
RV-6A Flying
RV-10 Fuselage/Finish kit
From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 4:25
PM
Subject: RV10-List: Planned or
Future Wing Removal - Connections at wing root
Attaching the wings looks like it might be
a significant job on the -10. Removing and re-installing is not something
that I would look forward to. What do listers really think the
probability of removing a wing is likely to be, once the plane is finished and
flying? Currently mulling over the REAL need for electrical connectors at
the wingroots.
cheers,
Ron
INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS EMAIL MAY BE DRS PROPRIETARY/COMPETITION SENSITIVE
AND IS ONLY INTENDED FOR THE ADDRESSEE OF THIS EMAIL
THIS DOCUMENT AND/OR SHIPMENT MAY CONTAIN COMMODITY ITEMS, SOFTWARE OR TECHNICAL
DATA THAT IS CONTROLLED BY U.S. EXPORT LAW, AND MAY NOT BE EXPORTED OUTSIDE
THE UNITED STATES OR TO NON U.S. PERSONS WITHOUT THE APPROPRIATE EXPORT LICENSE
FROM EITHER THE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF STATE OR DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax reqts and antenna placement |
RG 400 cable on EBAY for .99 per foot.
DEAN
RG 400 cable on EBAY for .99 per foot.
DEAN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Planned or Future Wing Removal - Connections at wing root |
Having already built a -4 with the connectors, it took quite a bit more
time to wire in the connectors and it made multiple points of failure.
I am building a -10 and I will not make connectors for wing removal. I
will leave an extra 6" of wire in the wing root so that if I ever have
to remove the wings, I can cut the wires and add connectors at that
time. This way it will be the cheapest, lightest, and fastest
solution.... If you have to remove the wings later, the last concern
will be adding connectors in the wires. You will have a better chance
of connectors failing in the wings someday than having to remove the
wings.
Just my opinion.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 5:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Planned or Future Wing Removal - Connections at wing
root
Attaching the wings looks like it might be a significant job on the -10.
Removing and re-installing is not something that I would look forward
to. What do listers really think the probability of removing a wing is
likely to be, once the plane is finished and flying? Currently mulling
over the REAL need for electrical connectors at the wing roots.
cheers,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
Currently at the top of my list:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/20Engine/index.html
Still on the fence regarding the "Red Gold" option for an extra $3K however.
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | epoxy and gelcoat |
Just started working on the emp fairings. My VS fairing has plenty of
pinholes in the gelcoat, and some other areas need worked out as well. I'm
using West System 105/206 resin/hardener. Will I need to completely remove
all gelcoat before I use the epoxy, or after I sand down and clean the
surface will the epoxy make a good mechanical bond to the exposed fiberglass
as well as the nearby gelcoat?
Rob
#392
Emp fairings - QB fuse and wings due in April!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: epoxy and gelcoat |
A light sanding of those gelcoated parts, followed by a scrub-on coat of West Epoxy
diluted 1:1 with acetone, will fill many of the pinholes. This is what Van's
recommends. Let the epoxy cure a few days, sand it lightly, then add coat
of a filler like "UV smooth prime" (available from ACS) either sprayed, brushed
or even rolled on. Wet sand that down and it makes a near-perfect pinhole-less
surface for subsequent painting.
Did that on the entire cowl for my -7A and it looks great 2.5 years later, even
with all of the heating and stresses cowls get. The white gel-coated parts are
even easier to get to a paintable stage.
-Dan Masys
#40448 N104LD reserved
> From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
> Date: 2006/03/07 Tue PM 10:41:31 EST
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: epoxy and gelcoat
>
> Just started working on the emp fairings. My VS fairing has plenty of
> pinholes in the gelcoat, and some other areas need worked out as well. I'm
> using West System 105/206 resin/hardener. Will I need to completely remove
> all gelcoat before I use the epoxy, or after I sand down and clean the
> surface will the epoxy make a good mechanical bond to the exposed fiberglass
> as well as the nearby gelcoat?
>
>
>
> Rob
>
> #392
>
> Emp fairings - QB fuse and wings due in April!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: epoxy and gelcoat |
Another tip. When you get to the step to rivet on the hinge for the cowl,
consider putting a 1" strip of E-glass over the rivet line after attaching
the hinge. This will prevent the rivet heads from working their way through
the paint after a couple of hundred hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: epoxy and gelcoat
>
> A light sanding of those gelcoated parts, followed by a scrub-on coat of
> West Epoxy diluted 1:1 with acetone, will fill many of the pinholes. This
> is what Van's recommends. Let the epoxy cure a few days, sand it lightly,
> then add coat of a filler like "UV smooth prime" (available from ACS)
> either sprayed, brushed or even rolled on. Wet sand that down and it
> makes a near-perfect pinhole-less surface for subsequent painting.
>
> Did that on the entire cowl for my -7A and it looks great 2.5 years later,
> even with all of the heating and stresses cowls get. The white gel-coated
> parts are even easier to get to a paintable stage.
>
> -Dan Masys
> #40448 N104LD reserved
>
>
>> From: "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
>> Date: 2006/03/07 Tue PM 10:41:31 EST
>> To:
>> Subject: RV10-List: epoxy and gelcoat
>>
>> Just started working on the emp fairings. My VS fairing has plenty of
>> pinholes in the gelcoat, and some other areas need worked out as well.
>> I'm
>> using West System 105/206 resin/hardener. Will I need to completely
>> remove
>> all gelcoat before I use the epoxy, or after I sand down and clean the
>> surface will the epoxy make a good mechanical bond to the exposed
>> fiberglass
>> as well as the nearby gelcoat?
>>
>>
>>
>> Rob
>>
>> #392
>>
>> Emp fairings - QB fuse and wings due in April!
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Filter Location |
I had my filter backordered from Van's. That gave me time to think. (never
a good idea) Is the location in the tunnel a problem for maintanance? I
would think that it would be better on the firewall with a heat shield
around it. Comments
Gary 40276
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Location |
The filter and the pump come pre assembled as a unit. Yes, I think
that it is not in an ideal location for maintenance but you will have
less chance of vapor lock also.
rob kermanj
rv10es(at)earthlink.net
On Mar 8, 2006, at 12:30 PM, Gary Specketer wrote:
>
>
>
> I had my filter backordered from Van's. That gave me time to
> think. (never
> a good idea) Is the location in the tunnel a problem for
> maintanance? I
> would think that it would be better on the firewall with a heat shield
> around it. Comments
> Gary 40276
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Filter Location |
Mine did not come with the filter. In fact when I ordered it it took 3
people to figure out what to send me. They had no clue what the RV10 uses.
Does that filter disassemble for cleaning, or replace filter unit or what?
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rob kermanj
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Location
The filter and the pump come pre assembled as a unit. Yes, I think
that it is not in an ideal location for maintenance but you will have
less chance of vapor lock also.
rob kermanj
rv10es(at)earthlink.net
On Mar 8, 2006, at 12:30 PM, Gary Specketer wrote:
>
>
>
> I had my filter backordered from Van's. That gave me time to
> think. (never
> a good idea) Is the location in the tunnel a problem for
> maintanance? I
> would think that it would be better on the firewall with a heat shield
> around it. Comments
> Gary 40276
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rob kermanj <rv10es(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter Location |
I have not taken it apart but it will open with a wrench. Did you
not order it from van? I was wrong, The filter comes separate, it is
the pump and the check valve that comes together.
rob kermanj
rv10es(at)earthlink.net
On Mar 8, 2006, at 4:53 PM, Gary Specketer wrote:
>
>
> Mine did not come with the filter. In fact when I ordered it it
> took 3
> people to figure out what to send me. They had no clue what the
> RV10 uses.
> Does that filter disassemble for cleaning, or replace filter unit
> or what?
> Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rob kermanj
> Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 2:28 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Location
>
>
> The filter and the pump come pre assembled as a unit. Yes, I think
> that it is not in an ideal location for maintenance but you will have
> less chance of vapor lock also.
>
>
> rob kermanj
> rv10es(at)earthlink.net
>
>
> On Mar 8, 2006, at 12:30 PM, Gary Specketer wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> I had my filter backordered from Van's. That gave me time to
>> think. (never
>> a good idea) Is the location in the tunnel a problem for
>> maintanance? I
>> would think that it would be better on the firewall with a heat
>> shield
>> around it. Comments
>> Gary 40276
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax reqts and antenna placement |
While we're on the subject and for those planning on ILS, where is the glideslope
antennas being mounted? I was thinking of putting it above the windscreen,
maybe glassing it into the canopy, and running the coax down the support. Any
better suggestions or experiences?
John Lenhardt
#40262
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax reqts and antenna placement |
why not install a SL30; the loc antenna input is good for both loc and gs?
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lenhardt
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax reqts and antenna placement
While we're on the subject and for those planning on ILS, where is the glideslope
antennas being mounted? I was thinking of putting it above the windscreen,
maybe glassing it into the canopy, and running the coax down the support.
Any better suggestions or experiences?
John Lenhardt
#40262
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <schmoboy(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax reqts and antenna placement |
On Mar 8, 2006, at 6:07 PM, John Lenhardt wrote:
> While we're on the subject and for those planning on ILS, where is
> the glideslope antennas being mounted? I was thinking of putting
> it above the windscreen, maybe glassing it into the canopy, and
> running the coax down the support. Any better suggestions or
> experiences?
>
> John Lenhardt
> #40262
>
I'm using an archer antenna in both wingtips. Nav2 of those will be
diplexed as the GS antenna.
-Sean #40303 (wing bottom skins)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax reqts and antenna placement |
Hi David,
Please excuse my butting-in on this subject line ... does your statement below
also mean the SL30 loc antenna input would receive all three (NAV included) ...
plus LOC and GS?
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A Electrical
Huntley IL
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax reqts and antenna placement
why not install a SL30; the loc antenna input is good for both loc and gs?
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lenhardt
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax reqts and antenna placement
While we're on the subject and for those planning on ILS, where is the glideslope
antennas being mounted? I was thinking of putting it above the windscreen,
maybe glassing it into the canopy, and running the coax down the support.
Any better suggestions or experiences?
John Lenhardt
#40262
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coax reqts and antenna placement |
I had to look it up...
SL-30 Install manual page 3 - Features * Internal RF Diplexor
Page 16: "It's size dictates room for only one Comm Antenna
input and one NAVS antenna input. It conforporates an internal
diplexor circuit. This means that the input VHF signal must not
strip the glideslope 330Mhz signal from the NAV 108Mhz signal.
Bold:DO NOT INSTALL AN EXTERNAL DIPLEXOR"
GNS480 Install manual page 2-43: "The GNS 480 incorporates
an internal diplexor circuit. "
"...It is recommended that a single VOR/Localizer/Glideslope antenna be
used for the installation. Most VOR/LOC-ony antennas will still
provide an adequate glideslope signal for the GNS 480 to operate
normally."
Then further....for those who only want one antenna (you WILL
lose some signal to each system if you do this):
"If two nav receivers (e.g. one GNS480 and one SL30) are
installed in the aircraft, a splitter must be used.
Installation should use an appropriate splitter, such as the
Mini-Circuits ZFSC-2-1B BNC, available as an option under the
Garmin AT part number 115-0007."
** This should not be necessary if you have 2 antennas
Looks like the SL-30 and GNS480 make things a bit simpler
to install.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Sean Stephens wrote:
>
>
> Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> FWIW, I used the Comant CI-157P cat whiskers VOR/LOC/GS antenna
>> and with just the one cable connected in to my SL-30 I have
>> all functionality. I also used the Bob Archer NAV into my
>> GNS-480 with just the single connector and I get VOR/LOC/GS
>> signals there too.
>>
>> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>>
> That's because those radios jave built in diplexers right?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Coax reqts and antenna placement |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Yeah, SL30 has a built-in splitter . . .
TDT
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Grimmonpre
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2006 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax reqts and antenna placement
Hi David,
Please excuse my butting-in on this subject line ... does your statement
below also mean the SL30 loc antenna input would receive all three (NAV
included) ... plus LOC and GS?
Thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A Electrical
Huntley IL
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax reqts and antenna placement
why not install a SL30; the loc antenna input is good for both
loc and gs?
----- Original Message -----
From: John Lenhardt <mailto:av8or(at)cox.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 08, 2006 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Coax reqts and antenna placement
While we're on the subject and for those planning on
ILS, where is the glideslope antennas being mounted? I was thinking of
putting it above the windscreen, maybe glassing it into the canopy, and
running the coax down the support. Any better suggestions or
experiences?
John Lenhardt
#40262
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tommy Norman" <tie-norman(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Bonding Strap Location |
For those of you that decided to install static wicks with bonding
straps, where are you attaching the bonding straps? I have looked at
the production spam cans around the airport but wanted to see what other
-10 builders are doing.
Also, what are you using for the strap and what size? Something like
this http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/copperbraid.php with
a crimped ring terminal?
Thanks,
Tommy
Frisco, TX (DFW area)
RV-10
For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to
return.
--Leonardo da Vinci
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | AOA wing skin location |
Group: I have both the Duckworks HID Wing Landing Light as well as an AOA. The
directions have both units in the outboard wing bay. There is plenty of room
but the AOA location directions would put the superior skin pressure unit behind
the landing light. I am concerned that the air pressures at that location
will be altered because of the slight change in wing contour secondary to the
light. Should I be concerned? Maybe move the two units a few more inches inboard?
I think I remember than Randy D.has the same setup but I can't find any
info. on his site. Thanks, Jay Rowe #40301.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: AOA wing skin location |
If you move the ports you will need to calibrate the system.
You should not have a problem having the ports behind the lights. The
calibration data that we use is from a plane with the lights in front of the ports.
Anyone going to Sun-N-Fun needs to stop by Booth D-92 and see our new RV-10
Panel.....
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
(503) 263-0037
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Engine questions - Feedback Please |
I had my 1st visit from my EAA Tech Councilor who is a long time A&P
IA, he made some compelling points about anything other than a factory
engine. His point is that engine parts have 'limits' set by the FAA, if
they are within limits the part can be reused. And at most engine
rebuilders facilities it goes into a 'bin/shelf/storage area' for future
use in an engine rebuild. Say for instance a crankshaft can be .003
undersize (just an example I have no idea what the allowable limits
really are)and still be OK, so the engine builder puts it in the 'good
parts' bin where it gets used to build your engine. But say shortly
after installing your 'new' engine the crank wears to .004, then you are
actually blissfully flying around with a crank that is not within
service limits. I'm assuming this is true, if not could someone please
set me straight. I was close to making up my mind about an
engine/supplier/source. But this has caused me to _seriously_ reconsider
anything other than a factory engine. My TC says that as an A&P he
receives correspondence from the FAA about engine shops that have been
found to use parts that are not within limits, his comment was 'even
some of the larger ones have had some instances'. I find all of this
unsetteling. Any feedback?
Additionally, In my Prior aircraft, I always flew with 'Factory Remans'
Are factory remans subject to the same 'limits' issue as in the above
example? Or are Factory Reman's to 'New' Limits?
Thanks for your enlightment
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine questions - Feedback Please |
Deems,
Overhauls come in a couple of different flavors. Most of us want an
overhaul to "new limits" and that makes sense. An overhaul to "service
limits" can, as you say, be on the ragged edge and go over it during use.
Factory overhauls can be to either new or service limits but most nowadays
are to new limits. Factory "remans" are a zero timed engine with a new log
book. Only the factory can do a "reman". Any others ( than remans )
continue the time on the engine logs, ie: TT3500 with TSMOH1500. With
competition in the after market, new cylinder assemblys have gotten pretty
reasonable and it's hard to justify reworking old jugs. Cams are the same
way. So, in reality, when you are buying a used engine (core) what you want
is a good case and crank since you'll probably replace the rest with new
anyway. Lots of 540's out there with prop strikes. Lycoming requires a
teardown with ANY prop strike no matter how severe. The crank in one of
these can be a crapshoot. Besides the prop flange being bent, you risk a
crack in the crank that would render it useless. Buying new from Lycoming
COULD be a good bet if they don't recall anything else!
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine questions - Feedback Please |
Deems,
Taking what Michael S. said just a bit further. I believe with the price of
core engines what it is now it appears that the Lycoming new kit engines,
built by the approved shops cost little if any more than an overhauled used
engine.
Prices are going up substantially though, literally in a few days, so for
those on the fence this is the time to decide.
I ordered mine last week. Delivery is running 3-4 months at least according
to my shop.
Just something else to throw into the mix.
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 6:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine questions - Feedback Please
>
> I had my 1st visit from my EAA Tech Councilor who is a long time A&P IA,
> he made some compelling points about anything other than a factory engine.
> His point is that engine parts have 'limits' set by the FAA, if they are
> within limits the part can be reused. And at most engine rebuilders
> facilities it goes into a 'bin/shelf/storage area' for future use in an
> engine rebuild. Say for instance a crankshaft can be .003 undersize (just
> an example I have no idea what the allowable limits really are)and still
> be OK, so the engine builder puts it in the 'good parts' bin where it gets
> used to build your engine. But say shortly after installing your 'new'
> engine the crank wears to .004, then you are actually blissfully flying
> around with a crank that is not within service limits. I'm assuming this
> is true, if not could someone please set me straight. I was close to
> making up my mind about an engine/supplier/source. But this has caused me
> to _seriously_ reconsider anything other than a factory engine. My TC says
> that as an A&P he receives correspondence from the FAA about engine shops
> that have been found to use parts that are not within limits, his comment
> was 'even some of the larger ones have had some instances'. I find all of
> this unsetteling. Any feedback?
> Additionally, In my Prior aircraft, I always flew with 'Factory Remans'
> Are factory remans subject to the same 'limits' issue as in the above
> example? Or are Factory Reman's to 'New' Limits?
>
> Thanks for your enlightment
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Visits - Was:Engine questions |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Tim,
I am seriously looking at the dual screen Cheltons for my RV10. However, the
magazines say that Chelton is coming up with a dual screen system just for RV10's.
Is this the same thing that you have in your 10? What do you know about
it?
Joe
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=21202#21202
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
The message below is from back in August 2005.
I just received my finish and FWF kits. :-) Included are 2 thin (.020
or .025) strips 1/2" by 48". I cannot find them on my inventory list.
Are these the shims for the cowling hinges or are they needed for the
finish kit or FWF?
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of me
>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it from
>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the 1/2"
>material to be cut to length.
>
>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is a
>QB.
>
>Thanks,
>Marcus
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine questions - Price increase |
"... particularly the note about imminent price increases."
I need to order my engine soon. I was going to wait until after Sun-N-Fun.
Any details on the imminent price increase?
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine questions - Price increase |
Hi Larry,
The shop I am using has said Lycoming will be raising the kit prices 3-4
thousand effective 3/14. I trust that they are being straight with me as I
am a repeat customer. They have always been good about follow-up and
letting me know what is happening in the market. I was most interested in
the 540 prices so I am not as sure about what is happening with the others.
By putting a deposit down a few weeks back the engine will be delivered at
the current price. Delivery is running 3-4 months for this shop.
Finally, when checking on various options for an engine, and for those who
do not have to have a certified engine, they are no longer recommending
overhauling as after buying a core it is very nearly the same price as the
kit engine and of course you are getting all new parts.
Your my mileage may vary depending on circumstances.
Regards
Dick Sipp
#40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>
> "... particularly the note about imminent price increases."
>
> I need to order my engine soon. I was going to wait until after
> Sun-N-Fun.
>
> Any details on the imminent price increase?
>
> --
>
> Larry Rosen
> RV-10 #356
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Visits - Was:Engine questions |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Thanks Tim. Hopefully I'll see you at SNF and maybe see your Cheltons.
Joe
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=21245#21245
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Larry,
I may be off, but I think that material is used on the inside of the
fuselage top when riveting to the side skins. I recommend you check that
out before using it on the cowling hinges, although it would be nice if it
were provided.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
The message below is from back in August 2005.
I just received my finish and FWF kits. :-) Included are 2 thin (.020
or .025) strips 1/2" by 48". I cannot find them on my inventory list.
Are these the shims for the cowling hinges or are they needed for the
finish kit or FWF?
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
>I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
>attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of me
>I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it from
>the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
>pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the 1/2"
>material to be cut to length.
>
>Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is
a
>QB.
>
>Thanks,
>Marcus
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA wing skin location |
Thanks Rob: I'll be putting the pressure ports in the recommended locations today.
One more question (and remember you are dealing with a first time builder):
Is there any particular location that the access hole for the water drain
probe should go? Maybe right directly below the drain? I will see you at Sun
and Fun toward the end of the week. Thanks again. Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AOA wing skin location
If you move the ports you will need to calibrate the system.
You should not have a problem having the ports behind the lights. The calibration
data that we use is from a plane with the lights in front of the ports.
Anyone going to Sun-N-Fun needs to stop by Booth D-92 and see our new RV-10
Panel.....
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
(503) 263-0037
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
Cc: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
| Subject: | Re: Engine questions - Feedback Please |
GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>I don't know if you've got a core to trade in but if you do,
>please keep in mind that they apparently have been returning to
>the exchange person with a bill up to $5k well after the over
>haul telling them that the case exchanged is TU and that the
>person must immediately pay a service core charge...and
>that the case has been destroyed and they have no proof of their
>claim but you owe them $XX immediately. The core/service charge
>well after the overhaul, without proof has caused a lot of
>discussion in the engine community, along with their cranks.
>
Patrick,
I think your info is a little outdated. Per the memo dated 03 April 2005, at the
below link, there is no longer a core charge as long as it is a "like" core,
it is running, and it is the same engine. So any boat anchor will do. It only
makes sense for them to get rid of the "junk" out in the field.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/corepolicy/corepolicy.pdf
If the above link does not work go to the below link and click on "Open Letter
to Our Customers." Or do a Google search on "Lycoming Core policy"
<http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp bodyPage=/corepolicy/index.html>
William Curtis
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | When to install second U-1002 Isolator Washer |
U-1002 isolator washers go on top of the four elastomers on the nose gear mount.
Page 46-07 says to install the second U-1002 isolator washer later, after the
elastomers have been set and taken shape. When will that be?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Wing tip nutplates |
Getting ready to do the nutplates in the wingtip for the landing light, nav/strobe
light and the clear shield that covers them. Reading the instructions it
makes no mention of HOW to buck/squeeze the rivets in these nutplates. What
is everybody doing to get these rivets in? Can you buck the fiberglass? I don't
believe I can get my 3" squeezer on any of them..........all suggestions and
pictures welcome! Thanks in advance for your ideas guys.
Dean
40449
Getting ready to do the nutplates in the wingtip for the landing light, nav/strobe
light and the clear shield that covers them. Reading the instructions it makes
no mention of HOW to buck/squeeze the rivets in these nutplates. What is
everybody doing to get these rivets in? Can you buck the fiberglass? I don't believe
I can get my 3" squeezer on any of them..........all suggestions and pictures
welcome! Thanks in advance for your ideas guys.
Dean
40449
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Any RV10's near Orlando, FL? |
RV10 Builders/Owners I will be in Orlando, FL March 13-17 and would love to see
any Rv10 projects or FLYING planes. Anyone close to Orlando? Call and leave
a message at 402-560-9755 or email me at DDDDSP(at)juno.com
thanks,
DEAN
40449
RV10 Builders/Owners
I will be in Orlando, FL March 13-17 and would love to see any Rv10 projects or
FLYING planes. Anyone close to Orlando? Call and leave a message at 402-560-9755
or email me at DDDDSP(at)juno.com
thanks,
DEAN
40449
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cowl/fuse hinge shims |
Larry:
NO shims are provided for the cowl / fuse hinge. The two side shims for the inside
bottom of the cabin cover are provided either in the fuselage or finish kit
I can't remember which. Mine had parts numbers on them. The top back inside
shim for the cabin cover came with my Emp. Kit I think.
I had to make the shims for the cowl / fuse as shown by the plans.
Russ
N710RV Reserved
RV-10 close to flying I hope
>
> From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
> Date: 2006/03/12 Sun AM 09:46:30 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: cowl/fuse hinge shims
>
>
> The message below is from back in August 2005.
> I just received my finish and FWF kits. :-) Included are 2 thin (.020
> or .025) strips 1/2" by 48". I cannot find them on my inventory list.
> Are these the shims for the cowling hinges or are they needed for the
> finish kit or FWF?
>
> Larry Rosen
> http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
> Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> >
> >I'm trying to locate the material to make the shims for the hinges that
> >attach to the firewall and cowling. It's 020 X 1/2" but for the life of me
> >I can't find it in the shipping list or lying around. I could make it from
> >the trim pack, although one piece is supposed to be 15" long and the trim
> >pack is only 12" (I think), besides it seems strange not to supply the 1/2"
> >material to be cut to length.
> >
> >Anyone else run into this or have a solution? In case it matters, mine is a
> >QB.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Marcus
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | COM Ant Location |
Has anybody considered putting the COM antennas on the bottom of the wings,
like just next to the first inspection plate? Any good reason not to? I'm
not too crazy about the idea of putting them under the pilot's and copilot's
seats with all of the fuel, brake and control systems and the tail isn't
wide enough to put two of them side-by-side while allowing for the proper
spacing. Either on the wing-root fairing or on the bottom of the wing seems
to be a good place, unless the wing root location would be too close to the
gear.
Also, does anybody have a scan of the Van's wiring diagram for the -10? I
have one, but it's not down here in Ecuador with me. Anybody who purchased
the wiring harness, would you possibly be able to scan it and post it
somewhere for me to download?
Thanks!
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
<http://www.itecusa.org> www.itecusa.org
I'm in Ecuador right now and should be back in the country by the end of
May. You may call me at 352-505-1899 and leave a message that I can check
from down here. Any I-TEC questions can be directed to the I-TEC office at
352-465-4545.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine questions - Price increase |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Larry:
Price increases from Lycoming to the engine shops that are building the
New Lycoming Experimental Engines go into effect this Wednesday, March
15th. Please feel free to call me if you'd like any additional details.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa,OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 8:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
"... particularly the note about imminent price increases."
I need to order my engine soon. I was going to wait until after
Sun-N-Fun.
Any details on the imminent price increase?
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Engine questions - Price increase |
Does anyone know whether this price increase is just on engines being sent
to engine shops or does this price increase also involve the certified
versions from Lyco.
It seems that when you have a monopoly on the market, you can charge
whatever you want. Is it really a $3K-$4K price increase? What was the
reason cited...lack of competition!
>From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 09:05:35 -0600
>
>
>Larry:
>
>Price increases from Lycoming to the engine shops that are building the
>New Lycoming Experimental Engines go into effect this Wednesday, March
>15th. Please feel free to call me if you'd like any additional details.
>
>Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>Tulsa,OK 74115
>(918) 835-1089 phone
>(918) 835-1754 fax
>www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 8:50 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>
>
>"... particularly the note about imminent price increases."
>
>I need to order my engine soon. I was going to wait until after
>Sun-N-Fun.
>
>Any details on the imminent price increase?
>
>--
>
>Larry Rosen
>RV-10 #356
>http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine questions - Price increase |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
The price increases on certified engines was effective at the beginning
of the year. You may have noticed a significant increase in prices from
Van's or the factory at that time.
The increase that we are talking about is on the Experimental engines.
The reason we have been given is the significant increase in raw
materials and labor to produce the parts. Yes, the increase is really
going to be in the 4k range and is due solely to the price increase from
the factory to the suppliers.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
Does anyone know whether this price increase is just on engines being
sent
to engine shops or does this price increase also involve the certified
versions from Lyco.
It seems that when you have a monopoly on the market, you can charge
whatever you want. Is it really a $3K-$4K price increase? What was the
reason cited...lack of competition!
>From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 09:05:35 -0600
>
>
>Larry:
>
>Price increases from Lycoming to the engine shops that are building the
>New Lycoming Experimental Engines go into effect this Wednesday, March
>15th. Please feel free to call me if you'd like any additional
details.
>
>Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>Tulsa,OK 74115
>(918) 835-1089 phone
>(918) 835-1754 fax
>www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 8:50 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>
>
>"... particularly the note about imminent price increases."
>
>I need to order my engine soon. I was going to wait until after
>Sun-N-Fun.
>
>Any details on the imminent price increase?
>
>--
>
>Larry Rosen
>RV-10 #356
>http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine questions - Price increase |
I checked Van's on new aircraft engines; their prices are changed yearly in
August for shipments that arrive after January, so unless things are
different this year the new OEM price will stray same at Van's until Aug 31.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>
> The price increases on certified engines was effective at the beginning
> of the year. You may have noticed a significant increase in prices from
> Van's or the factory at that time.
>
> The increase that we are talking about is on the Experimental engines.
> The reason we have been given is the significant increase in raw
> materials and labor to produce the parts. Yes, the increase is really
> going to be in the 4k range and is due solely to the price increase from
> the factory to the suppliers.
>
> Rhonda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>
>
>
> Does anyone know whether this price increase is just on engines being
> sent
> to engine shops or does this price increase also involve the certified
> versions from Lyco.
>
> It seems that when you have a monopoly on the market, you can charge
> whatever you want. Is it really a $3K-$4K price increase? What was the
>
> reason cited...lack of competition!
>
>
>>From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
>>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>>Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 09:05:35 -0600
>>
>
>>
>>Larry:
>>
>>Price increases from Lycoming to the engine shops that are building the
>>New Lycoming Experimental Engines go into effect this Wednesday, March
>>15th. Please feel free to call me if you'd like any additional
> details.
>>
>>Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>>Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>>2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>>Tulsa,OK 74115
>>(918) 835-1089 phone
>>(918) 835-1754 fax
>>www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>>Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 8:50 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>>
>>
>>"... particularly the note about imminent price increases."
>>
>>I need to order my engine soon. I was going to wait until after
>>Sun-N-Fun.
>>
>>Any details on the imminent price increase?
>>
>>--
>>
>>Larry Rosen
>>RV-10 #356
>>http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine questions - Price increase |
As I recall my engine was $38900 from Van's for December 2004 delivery,
price for delivery in 2005 was $42600 so would expect some kind of price
increase from Van's late August. I suspect Lycoming trying to squeeze the
experimental assemblers of IO540s from certified parts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>
> The price increases on certified engines was effective at the beginning
> of the year. You may have noticed a significant increase in prices from
> Van's or the factory at that time.
>
> The increase that we are talking about is on the Experimental engines.
> The reason we have been given is the significant increase in raw
> materials and labor to produce the parts. Yes, the increase is really
> going to be in the 4k range and is due solely to the price increase from
> the factory to the suppliers.
>
> Rhonda
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:50 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>
>
>
> Does anyone know whether this price increase is just on engines being
> sent
> to engine shops or does this price increase also involve the certified
> versions from Lyco.
>
> It seems that when you have a monopoly on the market, you can charge
> whatever you want. Is it really a $3K-$4K price increase? What was the
>
> reason cited...lack of competition!
>
>
>>From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
>>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>>Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 09:05:35 -0600
>>
>
>>
>>Larry:
>>
>>Price increases from Lycoming to the engine shops that are building the
>>New Lycoming Experimental Engines go into effect this Wednesday, March
>>15th. Please feel free to call me if you'd like any additional
> details.
>>
>>Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>>Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>>2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>>Tulsa,OK 74115
>>(918) 835-1089 phone
>>(918) 835-1754 fax
>>www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
>>Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 8:50 AM
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
>>
>>
>>"... particularly the note about imminent price increases."
>>
>>I need to order my engine soon. I was going to wait until after
>>Sun-N-Fun.
>>
>>Any details on the imminent price increase?
>>
>>--
>>
>>Larry Rosen
>>RV-10 #356
>>http://lrosen.nerv10.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Engine choice - I made my mine |
After getting a lot of input from the Matronics board, and talking off
line to several people. I made my engine choice and today I placed my
order with Allen Barrett of BPA Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ . The
timing of my decision was based on the price increase for the overhaul
kits from Lycoming in 1 or 2 days. I already saw one price increase and
want to avoid another. BPA is a respected engine builder they use the
kit from Lycoming, similar to Aero Sport and Mattituck, only they do
some extras eg. porting and flow matching, custom paint, dynamically
balancing the rotating parts to a much stricter tolerance than others.
(Others will do this but for extra fees).Then they do something unique,
they run your engine on their dyno for 1 1/2 hours with a minute by
minute printout that you get. Their attitude is that they believe this
is the only way to build an engine and they won't build it otherwise.
they'd rather let business go to other shops than build to a lower
standard. I think that speaks tons to the mindset and attitude/culture
that governs the way they operate. They also do Kirby Chamblis, and
Patty Wagstaff's engines as well. Allen Barrett made a personal call to
me to answer all of my questions and was extremely professional. As one
person said "picking an engine is a painful experience" and each
individual decision is governed by what is most important to that
person. In this case BPA met my criteria and I'm happy with the
decision. Thanks again to all who contributed knowledge and information
to this process
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim Speed & Tail Wire Run |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Flying RV-10s,
I have read that the trim motors run too fast for easy trim in level
flight. I have a speed controller I plan on wiring via a relay. The
speed controller will only be in the circuit when the fuel pump is off.
I want "regular" trim speed during the critical phases of flight
(takeoff & landing). However, do you think the speed is too fast even
for takeoff and landing? I have a second speed controller I can use if
that is the case.
Also - what wire routing did you use for your tail nav and strobes (if
any)? My concern is where to enter the empennage.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Speed & Tail Wire Run |
I think the speed is just right during takeoff and landing and
I wouldn't want to slow it down any during those phases. I was
considering a switch to select high or low speed. Your idea
of doing it with the boost pump sounds pretty good, actually.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Conti, Rick wrote:
>
> Flying RV-10s,
>
> I have read that the trim motors run too fast for easy trim in level
> flight. I have a speed controller I plan on wiring via a relay. The
> speed controller will only be in the circuit when the fuel pump is off.
> I want "regular" trim speed during the critical phases of flight
> (takeoff & landing). However, do you think the speed is too fast even
> for takeoff and landing? I have a second speed controller I can use if
> that is the case.
>
> Also - what wire routing did you use for your tail nav and strobes (if
> any)? My concern is where to enter the empennage.
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Trim Speed & Tail Wire Run |
My dad has never said anything about the trim speed being too fast. He
seems very happy with it after 200 flying hours.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
I'm in Ecuador right now and should be back in the country by the end of
May. You may call me at 352-505-1899 and leave a message that I can check
from down here. Any I-TEC questions can be directed to the I-TEC office at
352-465-4545.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 3:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim Speed & Tail Wire Run
Flying RV-10s,
I have read that the trim motors run too fast for easy trim in level
flight. I have a speed controller I plan on wiring via a relay. The
speed controller will only be in the circuit when the fuel pump is off.
I want "regular" trim speed during the critical phases of flight
(takeoff & landing). However, do you think the speed is too fast even
for takeoff and landing? I have a second speed controller I can use if
that is the case.
Also - what wire routing did you use for your tail nav and strobes (if
any)? My concern is where to enter the empennage.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine questions - Price increase |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The reason sited "off record" was the astronomical multi-million dollar
(jury)settlement granted the plaintiff in the crankshaft litigation.
The cost is being equitably passed through to those who use the product.
We are getting all that the best legal system in the world can provide.
Product liability can only do so much, that is why we are building
Experimental and not buying Certified. Tort is such a great concept.
John $00.02
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 8:50 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine questions - Price increase
Does anyone know whether this price increase is just on engines being
sent
to engine shops or does this price increase also involve the certified
versions from Lyco.
It seems that when you have a monopoly on the market, you can charge
whatever you want. Is it really a $3K-$4K price increase? What was the
reason cited...lack of competition!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine choice - I made my mine |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Wise Choice, great people, exceptional support. Hearing of your prop
decision will be another milestone.
John - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 12:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
After getting a lot of input from the Matronics board, and talking off
line to several people. I made my engine choice and today I placed my
order with Allen Barrett of BPA Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ . The
timing of my decision was based on the price increase for the overhaul
kits from Lycoming in 1 or 2 days. I already saw one price increase and
want to avoid another. BPA is a respected engine builder they use the
kit from Lycoming, similar to Aero Sport and Mattituck, only they do
some extras eg. porting and flow matching, custom paint, dynamically
balancing the rotating parts to a much stricter tolerance than others.
(Others will do this but for extra fees).Then they do something unique,
they run your engine on their dyno for 1 1/2 hours with a minute by
minute printout that you get. Their attitude is that they believe this
is the only way to build an engine and they won't build it otherwise.
they'd rather let business go to other shops than build to a lower
standard. I think that speaks tons to the mindset and attitude/culture
that governs the way they operate. They also do Kirby Chamblis, and
Patty Wagstaff's engines as well. Allen Barrett made a personal call to
me to answer all of my questions and was extremely professional. As one
person said "picking an engine is a painful experience" and each
individual decision is governed by what is most important to that
person. In this case BPA met my criteria and I'm happy with the
decision. Thanks again to all who contributed knowledge and information
to this process
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kevin Echols <kmechols(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trim Speed & Tail Wire Run |
I have no personal experience with this product but do find it interesting.
They suggest using a flap position sensor to determine high vs. low speed, but
it would seem easy to use your idea of the fuel pump switch too.
http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/tcm.html
-Kevin
> >
> > Flying RV-10s,
> >
> > I have read that the trim motors run too fast for easy trim in level
> > flight. I have a speed controller I plan on wiring via a relay. The
> > speed controller will only be in the circuit when the fuel pump is off.
> > I want "regular" trim speed during the critical phases of flight
> > (takeoff & landing). However, do you think the speed is too fast even
> > for takeoff and landing? I have a second speed controller I can use if
> > that is the case.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Wiring Diagram Software |
If dan had replied directly, I may not have known of, or benefited from his
efforts of scanning the electrical prints. I have found them tremendously
helpful in planning at my stage of construction. Thanks for risking life and
limb and posting.
Steven DiNieri
40205
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Wiring Diagram Software
Dan you might have tried sending it direct to Jesse rather than world wide.
No yelling needed.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice - I made my mine |
So which one did you order? The "heavy hitter" or the "lightweight"? Also,
does their cold air induction require you to modify the cowl? Just
curious....
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 2:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
> After getting a lot of input from the Matronics board, and talking off
> line to several people. I made my engine choice and today I placed my
> order with Allen Barrett of BPA Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ . The
> timing of my decision was based on the price increase for the overhaul
> kits from Lycoming in 1 or 2 days. I already saw one price increase and
> want to avoid another. BPA is a respected engine builder they use the kit
> from Lycoming, similar to Aero Sport and Mattituck, only they do some
> extras eg. porting and flow matching, custom paint, dynamically balancing
> the rotating parts to a much stricter tolerance than others. (Others will
> do this but for extra fees).Then they do something unique, they run your
> engine on their dyno for 1 1/2 hours with a minute by minute printout that
> you get. Their attitude is that they believe this is the only way to build
> an engine and they won't build it otherwise. they'd rather let business
> go to other shops than build to a lower standard. I think that speaks tons
> to the mindset and attitude/culture that governs the way they operate.
> They also do Kirby Chamblis, and Patty Wagstaff's engines as well. Allen
> Barrett made a personal call to me to answer all of my questions and was
> extremely professional. As one person said "picking an engine is a painful
> experience" and each individual decision is governed by what is most
> important to that person. In this case BPA met my criteria and I'm happy
> with the decision. Thanks again to all who contributed knowledge and
> information to this process
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine choice - I made my mine |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Brian:
If it's okay, I'd like to address the differences in the IO-540s we have
listed on our website and note that our site is in the process of some
serious changes, so more detail will be on our site soon.
The "heavy hitter" IO-540 is an angle head engine which is used in the
Extra series aircraft and some Glassair models. The lightweight IO-540
is the parallel head version of the engine which is used in the RV-10.
Our cold air induction does require a cowl modification for the RV-10,
which is being developed and should be available sometime in the 2nd
quarter. We have been told that the pricing for the new cowl will be
competitive with the cowl sold by Van's. Our cold air has been used on
some Rockets with some cowling modifications as well.
Hope this helps clarify.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N> Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1754 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
So which one did you order? The "heavy hitter" or the "lightweight"?
Also,
does their cold air induction require you to modify the cowl? Just
curious....
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 2:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
> After getting a lot of input from the Matronics board, and talking off
> line to several people. I made my engine choice and today I placed my
> order with Allen Barrett of BPA Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ .
The
> timing of my decision was based on the price increase for the overhaul
> kits from Lycoming in 1 or 2 days. I already saw one price increase
and
> want to avoid another. BPA is a respected engine builder they use the
kit
> from Lycoming, similar to Aero Sport and Mattituck, only they do some
> extras eg. porting and flow matching, custom paint, dynamically
balancing
> the rotating parts to a much stricter tolerance than others. (Others
will
> do this but for extra fees).Then they do something unique, they run
your
> engine on their dyno for 1 1/2 hours with a minute by minute printout
that
> you get. Their attitude is that they believe this is the only way to
build
> an engine and they won't build it otherwise. they'd rather let
business
> go to other shops than build to a lower standard. I think that speaks
tons
> to the mindset and attitude/culture that governs the way they operate.
> They also do Kirby Chamblis, and Patty Wagstaff's engines as well.
Allen
> Barrett made a personal call to me to answer all of my questions and
was
> extremely professional. As one person said "picking an engine is a
painful
> experience" and each individual decision is governed by what is most
> important to that person. In this case BPA met my criteria and I'm
happy
> with the decision. Thanks again to all who contributed knowledge and
> information to this process
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryRosen(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice - I made my mine |
I also going the group and placed an order for my engine from BPE. I got the light
weight which is the IO-540X parallel valve engine. I did not get the cold
air induction. I did get 9:1 compression and the chrome options. I will decide
later on my ignition option.
It sure would be nice if the emag / pmag for a 540 was announced at sun-n-fun.
Larry Rosen
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Brian Sponcil" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org>
>
>
> So which one did you order? The "heavy hitter" or the "lightweight"? Also,
> does their cold air induction require you to modify the cowl? Just
> curious....
>
>
> -Brian
>
> #40497
> N211BD
> Iowa City, IA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 2:02 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
>
> >
> > After getting a lot of input from the Matronics board, and talking off
> > line to several people. I made my engine choice and today I placed my
> > order with Allen Barrett of BPA Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ . The
> > timing of my decision was based on the price increase for the overhaul
> > kits from Lycoming in 1 or 2 days. I already saw one price increase and
> > want to avoid another. BPA is a respected engine builder they use the kit
> > from Lycoming, similar to Aero Sport and Mattituck, only they do some
> > extras eg. porting and flow matching, custom paint, dynamically balancing
> > the rotating parts to a much stricter tolerance than others. (Others will
> > do this but for extra fees).Then they do something unique, they run your
> > engine on their dyno for 1 1/2 hours with a minute by minute printout that
> > you get. Their attitude is that they believe this is the only way to build
> > an engine and they won't build it otherwise. they'd rather let business
> > go to other shops than build to a lower standard. I think that speaks tons
> > to the mindset and attitude/culture that governs the way they operate.
> > They also do Kirby Chamblis, and Patty Wagstaff's engines as well. Allen
> > Barrett made a personal call to me to answer all of my questions and was
> > extremely professional. As one person said "picking an engine is a painful
> > experience" and each individual decision is governed by what is most
> > important to that person. In this case BPA met my criteria and I'm happy
> > with the decision. Thanks again to all who contributed knowledge and
> > information to this process
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406
> > Fuse
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam.marlow(at)adelphia.net> |
I'm getting ready to build my IO540, and have a question as to which
part number Oil Filler to use. Lycoming has about four different P/N's
for the IO540, narrow deck. For those of you who have installed your
cowling, which one works best, or if you had it to do over again, would
you use? The choices are as follows, 4-1/2", 6-5/16", 2-11/16",or
2-3/16". Maybe someone could just measure theirs, it would be a big help!
Sam Marlow
Still working on the fuse!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice - I made my mine |
Rhonda:
With the heavy hitter, which I assume is somthing like the K model IO-540 angle
valve, does the cowl need modification? Also how much heavier is the heavy hitter?
Russ Daves
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/03/14 Tue PM 12:59:02 EST
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
>
> Brian:
>
> If it's okay, I'd like to address the differences in the IO-540s we have
> listed on our website and note that our site is in the process of some
> serious changes, so more detail will be on our site soon.
>
> The "heavy hitter" IO-540 is an angle head engine which is used in the
> Extra series aircraft and some Glassair models. The lightweight IO-540
> is the parallel head version of the engine which is used in the RV-10.
>
> Our cold air induction does require a cowl modification for the RV-10,
> which is being developed and should be available sometime in the 2nd
> quarter. We have been told that the pricing for the new cowl will be
> competitive with the cowl sold by Van's. Our cold air has been used on
> some Rockets with some cowling modifications as well.
>
> Hope this helps clarify.
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> 2870-B N> Sheridan Rd.
> Tulsa, OK 74115
> (918) 835-1089 phone
> (918) 835-1754 fax
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Sponcil
> Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 11:33 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
>
>
>
> So which one did you order? The "heavy hitter" or the "lightweight"?
> Also,
> does their cold air induction require you to modify the cowl? Just
> curious....
>
>
> -Brian
>
> #40497
> N211BD
> Iowa City, IA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 2:02 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
>
> >
> > After getting a lot of input from the Matronics board, and talking off
>
> > line to several people. I made my engine choice and today I placed my
>
> > order with Allen Barrett of BPA Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ .
> The
> > timing of my decision was based on the price increase for the overhaul
>
> > kits from Lycoming in 1 or 2 days. I already saw one price increase
> and
> > want to avoid another. BPA is a respected engine builder they use the
> kit
> > from Lycoming, similar to Aero Sport and Mattituck, only they do some
> > extras eg. porting and flow matching, custom paint, dynamically
> balancing
> > the rotating parts to a much stricter tolerance than others. (Others
> will
> > do this but for extra fees).Then they do something unique, they run
> your
> > engine on their dyno for 1 1/2 hours with a minute by minute printout
> that
> > you get. Their attitude is that they believe this is the only way to
> build
> > an engine and they won't build it otherwise. they'd rather let
> business
> > go to other shops than build to a lower standard. I think that speaks
> tons
> > to the mindset and attitude/culture that governs the way they operate.
>
> > They also do Kirby Chamblis, and Patty Wagstaff's engines as well.
> Allen
> > Barrett made a personal call to me to answer all of my questions and
> was
> > extremely professional. As one person said "picking an engine is a
> painful
> > experience" and each individual decision is governed by what is most
> > important to that person. In this case BPA met my criteria and I'm
> happy
> > with the decision. Thanks again to all who contributed knowledge and
> > information to this process
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406
> > Fuse
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Engine choice - I made my mine |
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
It is based off the K series engine. Lycoming shows the K as weighing
438 and the P/H (d series) at 381 so there's a 57 pound difference. The
angle head version is rated at 300 hp with standard compression without
cold air.
Our cold air system can be used on either engine. You would save 12
lbs. with our cold air system on the angle head; no weight savings with
our cold air on the parallel head engine.
Michael hit the nail on the head, the A/H engine weighs too much and is
too wide for installation in the -10.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
dav1111(at)cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: RE: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
Rhonda:
With the heavy hitter, which I assume is somthing like the K model
IO-540 angle valve, does the cowl need modification? Also how much
heavier is the heavy hitter?
Russ Daves
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/03/14 Tue PM 12:59:02 EST
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
>
> Brian:
>
> If it's okay, I'd like to address the differences in the IO-540s we
have
> listed on our website and note that our site is in the process of some
> serious changes, so more detail will be on our site soon.
>
> The "heavy hitter" IO-540 is an angle head engine which is used in the
> Extra series aircraft and some Glassair models. The lightweight
IO-540
> is the parallel head version of the engine which is used in the RV-10.
>
> Our cold air induction does require a cowl modification for the RV-10,
> which is being developed and should be available sometime in the 2nd
> quarter. We have been told that the pricing for the new cowl will be
> competitive with the cowl sold by Van's. Our cold air has been used
on
> some Rockets with some cowling modifications as well.
>
> Hope this helps clarify.
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> 2870-B N> Sheridan Rd.
> Tulsa, OK 74115
> (918) 835-1089 phone
> (918) 835-1754 fax
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Sponcil
> Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2006 11:33 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
>
>
>
> So which one did you order? The "heavy hitter" or the "lightweight"?
> Also,
> does their cold air induction require you to modify the cowl? Just
> curious....
>
>
> -Brian
>
> #40497
> N211BD
> Iowa City, IA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 2:02 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Engine choice - I made my mine
>
>
> >
> > After getting a lot of input from the Matronics board, and talking
off
>
> > line to several people. I made my engine choice and today I placed
my
>
> > order with Allen Barrett of BPA Engines http://www.bpaengines.com/ .
> The
> > timing of my decision was based on the price increase for the
overhaul
>
> > kits from Lycoming in 1 or 2 days. I already saw one price increase
> and
> > want to avoid another. BPA is a respected engine builder they use
the
> kit
> > from Lycoming, similar to Aero Sport and Mattituck, only they do
some
> > extras eg. porting and flow matching, custom paint, dynamically
> balancing
> > the rotating parts to a much stricter tolerance than others. (Others
> will
> > do this but for extra fees).Then they do something unique, they run
> your
> > engine on their dyno for 1 1/2 hours with a minute by minute
printout
> that
> > you get. Their attitude is that they believe this is the only way to
> build
> > an engine and they won't build it otherwise. they'd rather let
> business
> > go to other shops than build to a lower standard. I think that
speaks
> tons
> > to the mindset and attitude/culture that governs the way they
operate.
>
> > They also do Kirby Chamblis, and Patty Wagstaff's engines as well.
> Allen
> > Barrett made a personal call to me to answer all of my questions and
> was
> > extremely professional. As one person said "picking an engine is a
> painful
> > experience" and each individual decision is governed by what is most
> > important to that person. In this case BPA met my criteria and I'm
> happy
> > with the decision. Thanks again to all who contributed knowledge and
> > information to this process
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406
> > Fuse
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> >
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Buhwana <buhwana(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | master switch LED |
What makes you think if you didn't see the master switch on you would
see the little LED? He's a suggestion form a lurker. Turn your strobe
light on and leave it on. when you turn the master switch on for
starting the light signal to everyone to "clear prop". When you leave
the airplane if you are blinded by the strobes, you left the master
on.....
tom RV-6A 939GK
I am wanting to put an LED on the panel that Hill inform us when the
Master
switch is on and the plane is off. We have left the Master switch on
several times to the tune of a dead battery when we get back to the
plane.
Is there a way to wire the ground of the LED through the start switch so
that it will get power when the Master is on, but won't ground until the
ignition switch is in the off position?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | master switch LED |
| From: | "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart(at)iss.net> |
You can use your alternator idiot light for the same purpose.
When the engine is stopped and the master is on, the alt light will tell
you the master is on. Has saved me more than once.
Works for me.
You can see the result here:
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/panel/index.htm
Enjoy
Mike
>
> I am wanting to put an LED on the panel that Hill inform us when
> the Master
> switch is on and the plane is off. We have left the Master switch on
> several times to the tune of a dead battery when we get back to the
> plane.
> Is there a way to wire the ground of the LED through the start
> switch so
> that it will get power when the Master is on, but won't ground
> until the
> ignition switch is in the off position?
>
>
February 20, 2006 - March 15, 2006
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ba