RV10-Archive.digest.vol-bd
April 29, 2006 - May 13, 2006
ench
MINUS the length of the extension.
Sorry for the dissertation. I had to prove this to myself before I torqued
my prop bolts.
The bottom line: The website calculation works for a straight extension.
Jim
40134
In a message dated 4/29/2006 7:43:37 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
jesse(at)itecusa.org writes:
That=E2=80=99s a great idea.
I have one issue with this website. It has you input the length of your
existing torque wrench, then the length with the extension. I understand
wanting to know the length from the center of the drive to the break-away p=
oint,
but what in the world difference can the length of the handle mean? Does i=
t
really make a different torque value if you grab the handle at the end or=20=
=E2=80=9C
choke up=E2=80=9D to the head? Am I really missing something huge here?
Also, I heard from an A&P school that if you put the extension at 90
degrees, then the torque value on the wrench is accurate, but then, of cour=
se, you
can=E2=80=99t use the racheting feature of the torque wrench, or you will l=
ose your 90
degrees.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
_jesse(at)itecusa.org_ (mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org)
_www.itecusa.org_ (http://www.itecusa.org/)
352-465-4545
____________________________________
| From: | owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com |
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 7:27 AM
| Subject: | Torque Wrench Extension |
I just came across a great idea that I want to share with the group. There
are a few times that a torque wrench won't fit on the nut/bolt (namely engi=
ne
mounting bolts, prop nuts, supporting the starter/alternator wires on the
engine case). Instead of purchasing expensive extensions or welding somethi=
ng up
I found that if you take an ordinary combination wrench and put a bolt/nut
with washers through the closed end you have a perfect extension. And you g=
et
to keep your wrench intact. See photo below.
You'll need to set your torque wrench to the appropriate setting when using=
an extension. If you don't trust yourself with a calculator here's a websit=
e
that will do the math for you:
_http://www.norbar.com/torquewrenchextensioncalculator.php_
(http://www.norbar.com/torquewrenchextensioncalculator.php)
This is too easy, but I struggled with a few of these before I came across
this idea, so I figure it's worth sharing.
Jim McGrew
#40134 - Fire Wall Forward
--
--
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
jsmcgrew(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Wrench Extension |
I had a few places where the crow's feet didn't work for me. I won't get
into details... in my opinion the angle of the wrench doesn't make an
appreciable difference.
Jim
In a message dated 4/29/2006 8:36:26 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
kellym(at)aviating.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen
While it is an inventive way to do it, I wonder about the impact of the
angle on the wrench shown, and might point out that a set of crow's foot
wrenches from Sears isn't all that much money. The crow's foot works
fine on Hartzel props.
Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Jim, that is a genius idea! I cobbled something together when
> I did my prop bolts, and used an online torque calculator to
> verify my own calculations on torque, but this wrench extension
> is pure genius compared to what I did. I'm going to put this
> directly into the tips section on my site for permanent viewing
> and for those who only get the daily digest.
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html
>
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
jsmcgrew(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear |
Rick, just a follow up. The only mission here is to get a uniform hole with
no play or as little play as possible. A 5/16 bolt is .3125 so a .3111
reamer will make any 5/16 bolt a snug fit. ( 3125-3111 = .0014) A 3125
reamer with a close tolerance bolt should also be fine. I used the straight
fluted reamer in an electric hand drill turning fairly slowly with some
Bolube for lubricant and it was way less trouble than I ever imagined. I
spent way more time agonizing than doing. It went like butter.
Many folks recommend putting the "shank" of the reamer through the hole fist
and then attaching the drill and pulling the reamer back through. That's
because the shoulder on the back of the reamer has a little slope to it and
the front does not. I did not find it to be a problem just using it like a
drill. Going directly to a 3125 did not require "pre-drilling" so I would
think starting with a 3111 would not either.
The only reason to use a reamer instead of a drill is that drills leave a
somewhat triangular hole instead of a truly round hole. The round hole with
a close tolerance bolt or slightly oversize will obviously have more bearing
surface in the reamed hole than in the drilled hole.
Many folks have just drilled them and it seems to work fine so I would think
that any combination of the reamer options would be fine. First best option
is the 3111 and then 5/16 reamer 3125 and a CT bolt.
My .02
Bill S
7a
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 2:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear
Bob,
I'm not sure I understand. I've never used a reamer and just realized I
shouldn't use an air drill with a reamer. Maybe the hand wrench from my tap
& die set.
What under size hole did you drill before using the .311" reamer?
Please explain the grinding of the shoulders at the reamer stem side to be
able to pull up and through.
Does any of this make sense without using a close tolerance bolt?
Bill suggested using a .3125 reamer with a 5/16" close tolerance bolt.
All of which sounds good.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Kermanj [mailto:flysrv10(at)gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: My 2 Cents on the Landing Gear
I used the same reamer as you have purchased. I found it easier to insert
the reamer from the button, chuck it and pull it through the hole. If you
decide to do this, you may need to grind the blade shoulders at the reamer
stem side to be able to pull up through.
On 4/26/06, Conti, Rick wrote:
>
> Whenever I start a new "kit", I review the instructions several times,
> once to ensure I have the necessary tools and parts. The .311" drill
> bit appeared to be a problem. I called Van's and received an
> interesting answer: I was told a 5/16 bit would be okay. I haven't
> installed the gear yet and after reading about loose landing gear I
had
> second thoughts. I received my .311" reamer from McMaster-Carr
(thanks
> for the info) yesterday. But is has occurred to me, that 5/16" would
be
> fine provided the bolt matched. Drilling with a 5/16" bit though the
> leg and support would not cause a problem. The problem would be from
an
> undersized bolt. Would everyone agree 5/16" would be okay with a
proper
> (precise fit) bolt?
>
> Thank You
> Rick Conti
> Senior Engineering Manager
> The Boeing Company
> office: 703 - 414 - 6141
> blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com |
It makes more sense to me to simply install a Garmin 396 in the panel
for $2500 and have the weather as the main display with NO extra items to
install. In addition you have a great back up GPS that can run on internal
batteries if you have a complete electrical failure. Take it on step further and
patch a serial cable from the Garmin Transponder and for very lttle cost (cable)
you can now display collision avoidance info on the 396. All these extras
(weather,traffic, backup GPS) are NOT required for IFR, so get it all done for
under $3000. When you get to where you are going, pull the 396 and use it for
driving directions.
Steve do no archive
Port St. Lucie, FL
772-475-5556
Sent from my Treo 600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto engine conversion with good links for Lycoming operation |
Cc: Eric Panning
---- Eric Panning wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> I agree - Cessna is the way to go. If it was good
> enough for grandpa it's good enough for me. Would you
> believe people are putting "experimental" airplanes
> together in their garage??? Some of these people
> started building before the supplier even finished the
> kit or quoted the final cost.
I have had two inflight major engine failures in 37 years of flying--the kind that
give you white knuckles, an inflight emergency declaration, an oil soaked
mess under the cowl when you land and the price of a new engine as a surprise).
Both were Lycomings --- one in a C172 and one in my RV-7A. Even with certified
aircraft engines you pay your money and take your chances.
-Dan Masys
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Assembly WorkshopRe: RV Assembly Workshop |
We did not build the tailcone in the Synergy Air class. Vertical
stab, rudder, horizontal stab, trim tabs, and elevators.
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Assembly WorkshopRe: RV Assembly Workshop |
A year ago this time I was at the Alexander Technical center completing
their RV-10 builder assistance program. In 14 days I came home will all
of the vertical stab, rudder, horizontal stab, trim tabs, elevators and
tailcone complete. The only thing left to complete on the emepennage
was to complete sections 11 and 12. Great program and a great kick
start to the building process.
Larry Rosen
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
Doors
David Maib wrote:
>
> We did not build the tailcone in the Synergy Air class. Vertical
> stab, rudder, horizontal stab, trim tabs, and elevators.
>
> David
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks |
At the risk of starting a frenzy, I'll post a few #'s I got on my trip from
SoCal to Sedona,AZ and back the last few days. For the most part it was very
consistent! I flew at 11000 IFR out, and 10500 VFR on the way back. At full
throttle (20" at those altitudes) and 2300 rpm, my TAS was always at 160kts
and fuel flow was 11 gph running a few degrees rich of peak. IO-540, MT 3
blade prop. DA on the way back was about 12K. Mark (N104ML)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Mark - Thank you for being the first candid and honest MT/RV-10 pilot.
Nothing wrong with knowing the facts. I wonder if you have ever
considered LOP as prescribed by GAMI for even better fuel burn rates
during cruise? Thanks again for using Knots and staying away from the
YUGO mph numbers which are only valid for EPA fuel economy ratings on
four wheeled motor vehicles traveling on MOGAS. Jim if you are still
out there, still no speed data.
Have you had any spring temperature swings on the CHT that you believe
are out of the norm for break-in? Would you consider putting on a new
Hartzell 2 blade for the RV-10 if one was made available?
John Cox - KUAO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Chamberlain
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks
<10flyer(at)verizon.net>
At the risk of starting a frenzy, I'll post a few #'s I got on my trip
from
SoCal to Sedona,AZ and back the last few days. For the most part it was
very
consistent! I flew at 11000 IFR out, and 10500 VFR on the way back. At
full
throttle (20" at those altitudes) and 2300 rpm, my TAS was always at
160kts
and fuel flow was 11 gph running a few degrees rich of peak. IO-540, MT
3
blade prop. DA on the way back was about 12K. Mark (N104ML)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riviting the tailcone |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I have an upcoming job related work stoppage for a few weeks. After that I will
be riviting the tailcone together. I have searched the archives and unless I
missed something no one has posted a method for back riviting the majority of
the pieces. I would like to back rivit as many of the stiffners as possible, but
before I go and reinvent the wheel, has anyone tried this and come up with
anything that did or did not work?
Eric Kallio
40518 waiting to rivit the tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31719#31719
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks |
Mark,
When you were a few degrees rich of peak what was your CHT and EGT? Thanks Jim
Gore
>
> From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
> Date: 2006/04/29 Sat PM 07:22:08 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks
>
>
> Mark - Thank you for being the first candid and honest MT/RV-10 pilot.
> Nothing wrong with knowing the facts. I wonder if you have ever
> considered LOP as prescribed by GAMI for even better fuel burn rates
> during cruise? Thanks again for using Knots and staying away from the
> YUGO mph numbers which are only valid for EPA fuel economy ratings on
> four wheeled motor vehicles traveling on MOGAS. Jim if you are still
> out there, still no speed data.
>
> Have you had any spring temperature swings on the CHT that you believe
> are out of the norm for break-in? Would you consider putting on a new
> Hartzell 2 blade for the RV-10 if one was made available?
>
> John Cox - KUAO
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> Chamberlain
> Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 3:55 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks
>
> <10flyer(at)verizon.net>
>
> At the risk of starting a frenzy, I'll post a few #'s I got on my trip
> from
> SoCal to Sedona,AZ and back the last few days. For the most part it was
> very
> consistent! I flew at 11000 IFR out, and 10500 VFR on the way back. At
> full
> throttle (20" at those altitudes) and 2300 rpm, my TAS was always at
> 160kts
> and fuel flow was 11 gph running a few degrees rich of peak. IO-540, MT
> 3
> blade prop. DA on the way back was about 12K. Mark (N104ML)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riviting the tailcone |
Much of the tail cone can be back riveted. You can do just about all
the bottom and side skins to the stiffeners, frames and bulk heads. I
do recommend a large back. When I did mine we used a 2'x2'x1/4" steel
plate. If you do use one of the smaller plates like Avery or Cleveland
sells be careful to make sure it is in place when you rivet. (I know I
am stating the obvious, but just don't want you to have a bad day.)
Mike Howe has a very detailed description on how he back riveted the
tail cone together here <http://www.etigerrr.com/TailCone/june_25_2004.htm>.
Two people will help (but not necessary), since the tail cone starts to
get big and heavy.
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riviting the tailcone |
Yes, it is very doable. I did it on mine. Just take your time and move your back
riveting plate down each row of rivets taking care to make sure the plate is
on the rivet and the skin is resting flush on the plate. If I recall there is
a few you can't/might not be able to do alone. It can get awkward moving around
that big ole tub on your bench. I could figure out how to do it in my sleep
now after plugging away on this project for two+ years. Step back, look at what
you want to do, it is pretty easy to develop a back rivet plant...mine came
out real nice. Gt ready to become a building wizard as time go on.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce snyder" <SNYDER888(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Riviting the tailcone |
Eric,
I back riveted almost the entire tailcone (except the round corners and the
top skin). I used 2 tables, one about an installed cleco height shorter
than the other. With the back rivet plate on the taller table, I worked
from the most forward part of the tailcone back, rolling the tailcone to get
both sides. I just pulled the clecoes, taped the rivets in, slid that part
of the tailcone onto the taller table and backriveted away until the rivet
gun wouldn't fit in the tailcone.
Bruce Snyder
40353 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 9:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riviting the tailcone
I have an upcoming job related work stoppage for a few weeks. After that I
will be riviting the tailcone together. I have searched the archives and
unless I missed something no one has posted a method for back riviting the
majority of the pieces. I would like to back rivit as many of the stiffners
as possible, but before I go and reinvent the wheel, has anyone tried this
and come up with anything that did or did not work?
Eric Kallio
40518 waiting to rivit the tailcone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31719#31719
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Riviting the tailcone |
My small Cleavend back rivet plate is routered flush into the work bench. I
attached a Black & Decker Laser Level to the floor joist above that shines a
visible red beam onto the steel plate. The laser beam happens to spread the
length of the plate. When back riveting, as long as the beam is hitting the rivet,
I know the rivet is on the back plate.
Mike -SB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
I know this may come through as a big file, but just making sure that Jesse
was able to use the Product Comparison page at Garmin.com. I keep waiting
to see what Garmin is going to publish for capabilities on the GMX-200.
Rob #392
MX 20 Standard <http://www.garmin.com/products/mx20/>
MX20 I/O Traffic <http://www.garmin.com/products/mx20/>
MX20 I/O Traffic <http://www.garmin.com/products/mx20/> & Radar
Moving Map
Yes
Yes
Yes
Display Size
6"
6"
6"
Display Type
65,535 Color AMLCD
65,535 Color AMLCD
65,535 Color AMLCD
Display Resolution
480 x 640
480 x 640
480 x 640
Unit Weight
3.1 lbs.
3.1 lbs.
3.1 lbs.
Unit Dimensions
5" x 6.25" x 8"
5" x 6.25" x 8"
5" x 6.25" x 8"
XM WX Satellite Weather <http://www.xmradio.com/weather/> Compatibility
Yes, using the GDL 69/69A
Yes, using the GDL 69/69A
Yes, using the GDL 69/69A
XM Satellite Radio Capability <http://www.xmradio.com>
Yes, using the GDL 69A
Yes, using the GDL 69A
Yes, using the GDL 69A
VFR Charts
Yes
Yes
Yes
IFR Enroute Charts
Yes
Yes
Yes
Terrain Awareness
Yes
Yes
Yes
Lightning Strike Display
with WX500
with WX500
with WX500
Weather Information (Using WSI AV-200)
Optional. Graphical METARs, SIGMETs, AIRMETs, echo tops.
Optional. Graphical METARs, SIGMETs, AIRMETs, echo tops.
Optional. Graphical METARs, SIGMETs, AIRMETs, echo tops.
Fully Customizable Charting
Yes
Yes
Yes
Jeppesen Database
Yes
Yes
Yes
Chartview Database
Optional. Requires JeppView Subscription. Provides Jeppesen Approach Charts
and Airport Diagrams
Optional. Requires JeppView Subscription. Provides Jeppesen Approach Charts
and Airport Diagrams
Optional. Requires JeppView Subscription. Provides Jeppesen Approach Charts
and Airport Diagrams
Obstructions Database
Yes
Yes
Yes
Direct Sunlight Readable
Yes
Yes
Yes
Automatic Dimming
Yes
Yes
Yes
Position Source
External GPS via RS-232 serial input.
External GPS via RS-232 serial input.
External GPS via RS-232 serial input.
Traffic Display
GDL 90
GTX 330, L-3 Com Skywatch, Ryan TCAD, and GDL90
GTX 330, L-3 Com Skywatch, Ryan TCAD, and GDL90
Radar Display
No
No
Bendix King RDR2000, RDR2100; Allied Signal RS 181-A (does not support
vertical profile with RS-181A).
Weather Information (Using GDL 69/69A)
Optional. NEXRAD radar images, Graphical METARs, Lightning, TFRs, Cell
Movement, METARs, AIRMETs, SIGMETs, echo tops, winds aloft, county warnings,
city forecasts, TAFs, cloud tops. (Requires XM WX Weather Subscription)
Optional. NEXRAD radar images, Graphical METARs, Lightning, TFRs, Cell
Movement, METARs, AIRMETs, SIGMETs, echo tops, winds aloft, county warnings,
city forecasts, TAFs, cloud tops. (Requires XM WX Weather Subscription)
Optional. NEXRAD radar images, Graphical METARs, Lightning, TFRs, Cell
Movement, METARs, AIRMETs, SIGMETs, echo tops, winds aloft, county warnings,
city forecasts, TAFs, cloud tops. (Requires XM WX Weather Subscription)
Voltage Range
10Vdc to 40Vdc, reverse polarity protected
10Vdc to 40Vdc, reverse polarity protected
10Vdc to 40Vdc, reverse polarity protected
MSRP
Contact your Garmin distributor
$8495.00
$14495.00
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: MX20
FYI, do some research on WSI and Garmin before committing anything in that
department. That has been or is a somewhat rocky relationship between the
two, so make sure you are buying something that will be supported into the
future . . .
TDT
400025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Riviting the tailcone |
My back rivet set hasn't held up well, and it didn't have enough clearance
beside some of the J-channel, so I just used my flush set and was careful to
keep it level and not allow it to slide off, which happened anyway a few
times. Just hit the rivet one more time in a level attitude and it looks
great!
Rob
#392
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 9:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riviting the tailcone
Yes, it is very doable. I did it on mine. Just take your time and move your
back riveting plate down each row of rivets taking care to make sure the
plate is on the rivet and the skin is resting flush on the plate. If I
recall there is a few you can't/might not be able to do alone. It can get
awkward moving around that big ole tub on your bench. I could figure out how
to do it in my sleep now after plugging away on this project for two+ years.
Step back, look at what you want to do, it is pretty easy to develop a back
rivet plant...mine came out real nice. Gt ready to become a building wizard
as time go on.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks |
I have all those numbers written down on a piece of paper, but left it in my
airplane. I will get back to it Mon, or Tues and be happy to post them. I'm
pretty sure the EGT's were around 1370 or so and the CHT's at 390 roughly. I
was fairly happy to see all at a consistent temp 1-6 cyl's.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
I have the MX-20 combined with a 430 and SL30 and have been very pleased
with the integration. The MX-20 has so many features, I'm just scratching
the surface. Departing IFR the other day I was given an unexpected heading
to join an airway not programed into the 430 or part of my clearance. I
quickly selected IFR map (not chart view, but a standard data base of
airways) and was able to turn onto the airway manually until I caught back
up with the GPS. The traffic/Terrain/and other functions such as the track
arc across the top have made this my main avionic component. I never look at
the 430 map. When coupled with the SL30 you can dial in radials with the OBS
and they will project as a megenta line on the map of the MX-20 out of the
corresponding VOR. Maybe overkill for everyday VFR, but lifesavers for guys
who like max situational awareness while in the clouds. Just some thoughts!
Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Performance Spec - Was: Extra fuel tanks |
Hi John,
Since Mark has shared his speed data, you have all of the information I had
available.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 04/29/2006 4:24:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com writes:
Mark - Thank you for being the first candid and honest MT/RV-10 pilot.
Nothing wrong with knowing the facts.
(Stuff Cut)
Jim if you are still out there, still no speed data.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Assembly WorkshopRe: RV Assembly Workshop |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I considered Alexander Technical Center as well. Coming home with the tailcone
completed was very tempting. In the end, we went with Synergy because they drive
up to Van's and pick up the tail kit and take it to their shop before you arrive.
They inventory the parts, order any missing pieces from Van, and have you
set up and ready to go on arrival. Then, when you are finished, they transport
the completed pieces back to Van's and Tony Partain will load them up and
deliver them to me when the rest of the QB is delivered. Since we live in MN,
I did not relish the thought of renting a trailer or truck to get the completed
tail feathers and tailcone home from GA on top of paying to get the kit delivered
to GA to begin with.
David Maib
--------
David Maib
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31755#31755
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hans Conser <hansconser(at)gmail.com> |
WSI Weather users are going to have to switch to a Sirius receiver
sometime in the next year or so. The MX-20 has been updated with the
GMX-200. Is Chelton going to get their system to direct an autopilot
like the GNS 480 can?
Hans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)aol.com |
Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as a
cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning 50/50
autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony ,Eric and
Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has been very supportive
and helpful even though panel was purchased originaly from lancair.Great people
to work with. 1613lb dual lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for
testing,no vaccuum pumps or mags.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
Congrats. Envy forcing me to get off my but and go out to the garage to get
to work. Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 5:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 728DD
Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as a
cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning 50/50
autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony ,Eric and
Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has been very
supportive and helpful even though panel was purchased originaly from
lancair.Great people to work with. 1613lb dual
lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for testing,no vaccuum pumps or
mags.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)AOL.COM |
Steve,
Please do not take me wrongly, I believe having the handheld's are a great
addition to many flight situation and having the ability to get wx, traffic
etc is an invaluable tool...but at times some of us folks read things out of
context..I carry an old 295, but in the Cherokee's panel we have a Garmin
300xl...one of the first IFR GPS's, not near the capability of what's out there
today, but a nice back up unit if one ever needs an inexpensive GPS/Comm second
unit...these two units have gotten me around many areas in the US and on
target.
P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)aol.com |
Photos will be avaliable in the next couple of days. thanks -jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
Congratulations! Enjoy! Ok, I say "not today" for mowing the grass. It's
out to the shop and back at it.
John Jessen
~328 (deburring Tailcone)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 6:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 728DD
Another RV-10 flys in Stockton California.It flys hands off. Docile as a
cherokee with a healthy dose of steroids.Lycoming 0-540 235 hp.burning 50/50
autofuel/100ll.Hartzell prop.Accuracy avionics panel.Thankyou Tony ,Eric and
Jennifer.Still have a few avionics bugs but Tony Sustare has been very
supportive and helpful even though panel was purchased originaly from
lancair.Great people to work with. 1613lb dual
lightspeed,painted,fairings not installed for testing,no vaccuum pumps or
mags.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers and fuel burn low power settings |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Here are some numbers from the last 2 days of flying.
75 deg. Outside air temp.
2500 ind alt.
3570 density alt (from Dynon)
117kts ind.
125 kts true (from Dynon)
137 kts gs.
30.07 bp.
17.4 mp
2200 rpm
50% power
Gross weight 2100 aprox
9.1 gph.
69 deg. Outside air temp
2440 ind alt.
3480 density alt (dynon)
121 kts ind
128 kts true (dynon)
30.08 bp
123 kts gs
18.5 mp
2200 rpm
53 % power
Gross Weight 2550 approx
9.4 gph.
One thing I have learned flying this great airplane is that Fast is
directly related to fuel burn. I was reading the specs. on the Columbia
400. Top speed was something like 285mph. and a fuel burn of 25.5 gph.
I can make the 10 go fast when I need to - high fuel burn 19 gph or so.
On most days I fly slower and enjoy the view. The beauty is I have a
choice with this plane. If you want 172 fuel burn but 25 kts faster you
can get it.
I will repost with some high speeds and altitudes.
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
The MX20 is Very Very nice unit. I am pleased with the integration with
the GX60. I have recently bought a 396 garmin.
Here is my recommendation for some one interested in a MX20.
MX20 no plates. Learn to use the cheap faa plates. Use the money you
save for updates to the gps and mx20.
GNS480 best integration with the MX20
SL30
396 you should have a backup GPS and one with weather is a plus. Very
easy to use.
Randy N610RV
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
GRANSCOTT(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 6:35 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: MX20
Steve,
Please do not take me wrongly, I believe having the handheld's are a
great addition to many flight situation and having the ability to get
wx, traffic etc is an invaluable tool...but at times some of us folks
read things out of context..I carry an old 295, but in the Cherokee's
panel we have a Garmin 300xl...one of the first IFR GPS's, not near the
capability of what's out there today, but a nice back up unit if one
ever needs an inexpensive GPS/Comm second unit...these two units have
gotten me around many areas in the US and on target
P
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
Today I am breathing more fiberglass dust as I work on fitting the cabin
doors. I have the doors mounted and clecoed together, but not yet
epoxied together. I have a tight fit between the door and the lip of
the cabin frame on the top and forward edge. The bottom 8" of the
froward door to cabin frame has a 1/4" gap. The door sits 1/2" above
the bottom sill with a 3/8' gap from the door to the return of the
frame. The back of the door has up to an 1/4" gap. I believe I trimmed
the cabin top to the scribe line. Do the gaps I described above sound
correct?
In the future steps of the plans it has the cabin top frame return tight
to the door. Do I leave enough gap for the upholstery fabric?
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Oil canning on forward fuse |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all
Just had an awesome weekend and made some significant progress.
Finished tailcone attachment and got those mongrel rear floor pans
installed. Decided to do some clean up and admire the work to date.
On inspecting the forward fuse skins, below the F1088 rib and just
forward of the wing leading edge, I noticed a bit of a 'bulge' in the
skins. Applying some pressure to the skin reveals a bit of oil canning.
This is present on both sides. Don't know what happened here, followed
the plans to the letter. Is this typical? Is there a fix?
cheers,
Ron
187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil canning on forward fuse |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Pitch trim servo |
Anyone have instructions or photos of the new TruTrak pitch trim servo
installation (with the roller arm thingy)? I only got a couple of photos and
no info on where to drill the bellcrank arm, etc.
Take care,
John
_________________________________
John Testement
Human Potential Project
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: HYPERLINK
"mailto:john.testement(at)humanpotentialproject.com"john.testement(at)humanpotenti
alproject.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin Door Fit |
Why do the scribe lines/instructions tell you to cut so much off the bot=
tom cabin cover door edge? The gap at the bottom is the widest if you c=
ut to the scribe line. I would leave 1/8 inch more on at the bottom of
the cabin door if i did it again.
Dean
40449
Why do the scribe lines/instructions tell you to cut so much of=
f the bottom cabin cover door edge? The gap at the bottom is the w=
idest if you cut to the scribe line. I would leave 1/8 inch more o=
n at the bottom of the cabin door if i did it again.
Dean
40449
______________________=
> to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pitch trim servo |
John,
I just installed mine the other night. The TruTrak web site has the
dimensions to locate the bellcrank arm attach hole. They said to look
at the 7 or 9 installation document as they are the same on all the
airplanes. Oh and when replacing the servo arm with the torque enhancer
don't remove the little screw on the servo that is off set from the
center one that is a shear screw and will break if removed. I have
already tested this feature.
Dick Sipp
40065
----- Original Message -----
From: John Testement
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Pitch trim servo
Anyone have instructions or photos of the new TruTrak pitch trim servo
installation (with the roller arm thingy)? I only got a couple of photos
and no info on where to drill the bellcrank arm, etc.
Take care,
John
_________________________________
John Testement
Human Potential Project
Phone: 804-303-1927
Email: john.testement(at)humanpotentialproject.com
3204 Long Meadow Cir.
Glen Allen, VA 23059
--
4/28/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: X/C into a convection oven |
Tim, I'm currently living in Arizona and I've done most of my flying in
the Western US. The rule of thumb most of us use is to launch EARLY (as
early as possible) and be on the ground before midday. By doing so you
can usually enjoy a clear and smooth ride. From 10:00 on the convective
activity increases . Mid July is when we begin the 'monsoon' season,
which draws moisture up from the south and makes for some considerable
convective activity by the noon time hour.If there is any moisture in
the area at all you can expect cumulus, and not infrequently nimbus and
giganticus . Flying @ 10-14k is the norm when crossing west to east or
visa versa. If your itinerary doesn't mandate Las Vegas, I'd suggest a
more direct route after crossing the Grand Canyon. Be advised that
flight over the GC is restricted and there are designated crossing
'lanes'. Make sure that you fly over Lake Powell and take in the
Monuments and arches before the GC. Don't worry about the temp @
altitude, it will be 30 degrees cooler @ 10K, and oh yeah remember "it's
a dry heat!"
Deems Davis # 406
Joining fuse &tailcone
http://deemsrv10.com/
Tim Olson wrote:
> Ok, so I'm paranoid...
>
> There's a chance that I might be forcibly ordered to fly from
> Wisconsin to San Diego, CA for a wedding on July 1st. It's
> *only* a 12 hour flight, so that's no problem. The problem
> is, I'd be flying down to New Mexico, across the Grand Canyon,
> and then up to Vegas and down to San Diego. One thing I
> did some research on is the average daily temps, which get
> into the 102-108 degree F range in those SouthWest states...
> and that's "average". The other much more minor issue
> is the mountains, as it looks like on my route my max
> mountain height is 10,000'.
>
> What I'd like to know is, can someone who lives down there
> in those areas, or anywhere in between Wisconsin and there,
> tell me how bad of weather and it's effects am I likely
> to see during that time of year right around July 1st?
>
> I've attached a picture of my route. It's not straight,
> but that's so I can do some visiting and sightseeing.
>
> All I know is if it was 105 degrees up where I live, the
> last thing I'd want do do is climb in my airplane for
> a flight. You'd be cooking up here.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: X/C into a convection oven |
My main Recreational Vehicle has 15 meter wings and no motor so I generally don't
launch until the afternoon and hate smooth.
I would recommend Oxygen for the West, if you cruise below 8,000 you are scraping
rocks, or so it seems, and have a long way to go to a strip. Flying in
some areas below 12K is marginal. I get a headache and go dumb (er) above 9K,
so I have a Mountain High EDS for the glider and two place system in the RV-6.
Wonderful and very low Oxygen use.
Talking to a pilot who just put his Reno racer into a dirt strip in the mountains,
I learned an interesting thing about the wonderful world of GPS and the
applications we use. Apparently he pushed the "Nearest Airport" when the problems
started and discovered the nearest was far out of glide range. He headed
to what appeared to be a level area and found a 3500 foot gravel/rock strip where
he made a semi-successful landing and walked away. The strip was on the
charts, but when he set up his software, he had specified the minimums for a nearest
airport to be some length with a hard surface. So the computer ignored
the airport that most likely saved his life and told him just what he wanted,
but did not need.
Bruce Patton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: X/C into a convection oven |
(got cut off for some reason)
Talking to a pilot who just put his Reno racer into a dirt strip in the mountains,
I learned an interesting thing about the wonderful world of GPS and the
applications we use. Apparently he pushed the "Nearest Airport" when the problems
started and discovered the nearest was far out of glide range. He headed
to what appeared to be a flat area within glide range and found a 3500 foot gravel/rock
strip. He put it down semi-successfully and walked away.
When he set up the GPS for the "nearest Airport" function, he had asked for a
long runway a hard surface so the computer ignored the airport that probably
saved his life. He was lucky to fly right over the airport which apparently was
not showing on the map for the same reason.
Bruce Patton
Bruce Patton wrote:
My main Recreational Vehicle has 15 meter wings and no motor so I generally don't
launch until the afternoon and hate smooth.
I would recommend Oxygen for the West, if you cruise below 8,000 you are scraping
rocks, or so it seems, and have a long way to go to a strip. Flying in
some areas below 12K is marginal. I get a headache and go dumb (er) above 9K,
so I have a Mountain High EDS for the glider and two place system in the RV-6.
Wonderful and very low Oxygen use.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: X/C into a convection oven |
Tim, as others have mentioned, the desert southwest is primarily a nice ride
in the morning. Be sure to factor in the June/July gloom doom along the
coast in the summer time. Generally speaking there is an overcast in the
mornings until around 11am and it returns about 2-3pm. Some days it is
present all day. I live just inland from Oceanside in Temecula(F70) and it
is usually clear after 10am. The overcast is typically about 1k ft and tops
out at 3k ft and it is very easy to get pop-up approaches into airports and
get the runway well before mins. If you get time, or get stuck, drop by
French Valley (F70) for a visit. Mark N104ML (65hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | True Flight software |
Anyone have any experience with this software. I am considering installing
on my notebook with portable GPS and WXworx in my Glastar until the 10 gets
finished.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | True Flight software |
We have been flying with a flight cheetah since soon after OSH last year.
When it works it is awesome. They have some great features, especially the
ease of pulling up a plate of the selected approach, but it has been less
than super-stable. Maybe it is our setup, maybe it is their software, maybe
it is their hardware, maybe it is our flying style (very high, using a
spinning hard drive), and maybe a combination of the above. If you aren't
flying high, you can eliminate one of these variables. If you go Bluetooth,
then you will have less problems with cables and things like that (which has
proven a little bit of a bear for us. If you use a good computer that you
know is stable in flight, that might help. Again, when it works, it is
AWESOME! When it does not work, well, it is useless, of course. I think
overall I would recommend it. Oh, the best deal is the updates. You get
all navaids, all plates, all software updates, for about $200 a year, if it
hasn't changed. That's hard to beat.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 9:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: True Flight software
Anyone have any experience with this software. I am considering installing
on my notebook with portable GPS and WXworx in my Glastar until the 10 gets
finished.
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: X/C into a convection oven |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
QB fuse and wings arrived today! Inventory is done (check the timestamp!)
and I have no more room in my workshop. Cabin top will have to go to the
hangar for a while.My RV grin can only get bigger.
Rob
#392
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
Folks,
>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler feed/return/pressure
lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK with.
Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved.....
I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS website
has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the 303 hose that we're
supposed to use.
I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - including the firesleeving.
I'll be building an assembly that includes a pair of hoses and a fuel
flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of firesleeve to go
over the flow meter.
Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4, 303-6,
and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter?
Thanks,
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pilotdds(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Performance numbers at highter alt. |
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to mount Bob
archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact the wingtips slide
inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
I can remember reading, but don't know where, that you ground it through the
nutplate. I.e. you rivet the antenna between the nutplates and the wingtip.
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact the
wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers at higher alt. |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
I would think an antenna lying on its side would not be as effective as
one protruding from the fuselage, if for no other reason the polarity
will be horizontal vice vertical and that can cause significant signal
loss. Also, the radiation pattern will be greater outward on the
aircraft side, since the aircraft is in fact the ground plane.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________
From: Rene Felker [mailto:rene(at)felker.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
I can remember reading, but don't know where, that you ground it through
the nutplate. I.e. you rivet the antenna between the nutplates and the
wingtip.
Rene' Felker
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact
the wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have
suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Performance numbers at highter alt. |
Check this site ... www.rvproject.com ... Dan Checkoway has done the
grounding with wingtip antenna and reports good reception. I tried to
find the specific address relating to your request, but was unable. I
think there is a search function ... sorry I can't be of more help.
With patience you'll find it.
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A Electrical
----- Original Message -----
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying
to mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the
fact the wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have
suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
We did it under the nutplates if I remember correctly, so it grounds
through
all of the screws and into the skin. I have seen another installation
that
uses aluminum angle on the outboard most rib and it doesn=92t remove
with the
wingtips. I think I am going that way with this one. Not going to do
another Wingtip COM, but the NAV seems to work great. Also going with
the
Marker antenna in the tip this time.
40415 in the paint and interior shop
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact
the
wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have
suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers at higher alt. |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Nah, I'd call THIS a ground plane . .
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at higher alt.
I would think an antenna lying on its side would not be as effective as
one protruding from the fuselage, if for no other reason the polarity
will be horizontal vice vertical and that can cause significant signal
loss. Also, the radiation pattern will be greater outward on the
aircraft side, since the aircraft is in fact the ground plane.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________
From: Rene Felker [mailto:rene(at)felker.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
I can remember reading, but don't know where, that you ground it through
the nutplate. I.e. you rivet the antenna between the nutplates and the
wingtip.
Rene' Felker
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact
the wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have
suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers at higher alt. |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
If you look closely, you'll see he doesn't need an antenna. All the
pilot has to do is stick his head out the door and yell for a taxi
clearance.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend [mailto:Tdawson(at)avidyne.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 3:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at higher alt.
Nah, I'd call THIS a ground plane . .
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at higher alt.
I would think an antenna lying on its side would not be as effective as
one protruding from the fuselage, if for no other reason the polarity
will be horizontal vice vertical and that can cause significant signal
loss. Also, the radiation pattern will be greater outward on the
aircraft side, since the aircraft is in fact the ground plane.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________
From: Rene Felker [mailto:rene(at)felker.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
I can remember reading, but don't know where, that you ground it through
the nutplate. I.e. you rivet the antenna between the nutplates and the
wingtip.
Rene' Felker
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact
the wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have
suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
Cc: pilotdds(at)aol.com
| Subject: | Re: Performance numbers at highter alt. |
>Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am
>trying to mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it
>given the fact the wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else
>familiar and have suggestions?
Use Aluminum tape. That and the screws through the nutplate will ensure conductive
contact between the antenna and the wingtip.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/07Wings/wings99y.html
William Curtis
40237 - Fuse
http://nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William" <wcurtis(at)core.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Performance numbers at higher alt. |
>I would think an antenna lying on its side would not be as
>effective as one protruding from the fuselage, if for no other
>reason the polarity will be horizontal vice vertical and that can
>cause significant signal loss. Also, the radiation pattern will be
>greater outward on the aircraft side, since the aircraft is in fact
>the ground plane.
Rick,
My assumption here is we are talking about the Bob Archer NAV antennas. That being
so, these operate best horizontally. Think of the "cat whiskers" and "bow
tie" NAV antennas in production aircraft. Comm antennas on the other hand, are
another story. They operate best vertically.
William Curtis
http://nerv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
I grounded both through the nut plates. Nav and com work great. The
com needs to be lifted up so it is as vertical as possible. I riveted
an extra trip if alum to the bottom of the com antenna and then bent it
so the antenna could angle up. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact
the wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have
suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers at higher alt. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
Rick, I have 2 com antennas. One whip and one in the wing tip. The wing
tip is about 70% as good as the whip. Plenty good enough if you don't
want extra antenna hanging out. Personal choice. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at higher alt.
I would think an antenna lying on its side would not be as effective as
one protruding from the fuselage, if for no other reason the polarity
will be horizontal vice vertical and that can cause significant signal
loss. Also, the radiation pattern will be greater outward on the
aircraft side, since the aircraft is in fact the ground plane.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________
From: Rene Felker [mailto:rene(at)felker.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
I can remember reading, but don't know where, that you ground it through
the nutplate. I.e. you rivet the antenna between the nutplates and the
wingtip.
Rene' Felker
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact
the wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have
suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers at higher alt. |
I'd call it a job opening.
Bob K
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:00 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at higher alt.
Nah, I'd call THIS a ground plane . .
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Conti, Rick
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:43 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at higher alt.
I would think an antenna lying on its side would not be as effective as one
protruding from the fuselage, if for no other reason the polarity will be
horizontal vice vertical and that can cause significant signal loss. Also,
the radiation pattern will be greater outward on the aircraft side, since
the aircraft is in fact the ground plane.
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
_____
From: Rene Felker [mailto:rene(at)felker.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
I can remember reading, but don't know where, that you ground it through the
nutplate. I.e. you rivet the antenna between the nutplates and the wingtip.
Rene' Felker
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact the
wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Firesleeving |
Ralph,
According to the ACS catalog, page 122, the 303-4 hose uses AE102-9, the
303-6 uses
AE102-12. Both firesleeve's use the 900591B-2C clamp.
Don't think I've ever seen firesleeve on a flow meter/transducer.
Ross Scroggs
RV-4 #3911
Locust Grove, GA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:38 AM
Subject: RV-List: Firesleeving
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>
> Folks,
>
>>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler
>>feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK with.
>
> Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved.....
>
> I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS
> website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the 303
> hose that we're supposed to use.
>
> I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - including the
> firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a pair of hoses
> and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of
> firesleeve to go over the flow meter.
>
> Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4,
> 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter?
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: [Team RV] Formation Clinic Wrap up post |
RV10 group:
Here is a report of last weekend's formation training seminar hosted by the
Ohio Valley RVators.
I flew with these guys and TeamRV a lot with the 4. Formation can be a lot
of fun when done safely.
With more and more of these great airplanes being completed there will
certainly be opportunities to fly together.
Traveling with a group of airplanes is a hoot. Granted it is not for
everyone but if the bug gets you, you're hooked.
Dick Sipp
#40065
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net>
;
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:24 PM
Subject: [Team RV] Re: RV-List: Ohio Valley RVators Formation Clinic
> Thanks for the reports guys you have made me real homesick.
>
> Falcon/Kahuna, be thinking about how to incorporate at least a few of the
> bomber model RV10s into formations.
> There are already more than 30 flying and they are coming out of the
> garages at a good clip.
>
> 35th anniversary flight?
>
> Frogman
> Dick Sipp
> #40065
> do not archieve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Gray" <rgray67968(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 8:02 AM
Subject: [Team RV] Formation Clinic Wrap up post
Team RV,
Below is my wrap up post from this weeks clinic sent to our OVRVators
site. It's long so delete NOW if not interested.
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - read on:
OK Gang...here's the POST FORMATION CLINIC WRAP-UP..for those of you
that missed it.....you know what I always say.."You Snooze.....You
Looze"!!
First.......thanks for all of the kind words on our 3rd Annual Ohio
Valley RVators Formation Clinic with Falcon and Team RV.......we DO
appreciate it!!
The weather for the 3 day clinic could not have been better....this
pretty much set the tone for the weekend!
Our theme for the Formation Clinic was the same as it always
is.....SAFETY.....together, we were successful (again) this year!
Here are a few examples of how folks reacted to our theme of SAFETY
at the clinic:
-While pulling an RV4 out of the hanger Lefty noticed that the
tailwheel was a little `cocked'.....it was immediately pointed out to
the owner and we pulled his bird into my hangar and made the
repairs.....20 minutes well spent!
-Another pilot noticed a `spongy' right brake...rather than
continuing the fly with `it'll be OK'....he pulled the plane in the
hanger and brake fluid was pumped back into the system and the air
removed. Time was also spent on filing a sharp corner from tailwheel
detent on the bird.
-Of course.....SAFETY was reinforced by the Flight Leads in each
Brief and Debrief as well.
The above translated into a successful formation clinic with
everybody returning home to their families.....and no touch up needed
on their wingtips!!
On with the wrap up:
We had about 44 RV's total at the clinic..38 of those being clinic
participants. Plus......one sweet Lancair Legacy photo ship. Right at
50 folks attended!
We ate about 150 donuts, drank about 100 bottles of water, 50 orange
juices, 50 apple juices, and lost count of the pop, coffee,
and `other' beverages during dinner Saturday night. I didn't get the
tally on the fuel yet....but let's say that the airport sold a few
gallons of Avgas...... $3.27 per gallon.
The clinic began with the arrivals on Friday (a few even came in on
Thursday). The tower frequency was buzzing with incoming traffic all
day...Keystone Flight, Buckeye Flight, Bulldog Flight, Hawk Flight,
Palmetto Flight, Rat Flight (no typo...smile), Speedy Flight,....you
name it..you heard it!! Incoming flights ranged from single to 8 ship
arrivals. In addition to the incoming traffic...we had quite a few
departure flights as well...we couldn't just `watch' the incoming
flights all day...we had to go up and get in some 4 ship practice as
well!
All planes were hangared or tied down then the Pizza Party
started.....right on time at about 6pm. We ate just about all of the
21 pizzas.......the noise of RV formation talk, and laughter in the
background as new friendships were in the making was music to the
ears!!
After our bellies were full..the ground school began. The `ground
rules'....(read: `SAFETY').... and agenda for the clinic were covered
..then I turned the ball over to Stu `Falcon' McCurdy (FFI) for his
segment of the Ground School. Stu's presentation dealt with the
basics and overview of formation flying including a background of
Formation Flying Inc. (FFI). This was followed up with the
introductions from the participants and the `nuts and bolts' (as Stu
calls it) of formation flying......a GREAT presentation from
Mike `Kahuna' Stewart.....founder of Team RV.
Saturday morning came early, with only about 5 hours of sleep for
many of us. Off to the airport..I love those clear, crisp mornings
with the sun coming up behind you as you preflight your RV..
especially when there are about 40 other RV's doing the same thing!!
I took Buckeye Flight of 4 up for some early morning practice which
included a photo pass prior to the carrier breaks...another flight
consisting of Kahuna, Dogg, Hooter, and Speedy were out for a
little `specialized' training as well. Nothing like standing on the
ramp early in the morning as the roar of the lycoming engines
overhead break the silence..this will really get the juices flowing!!
Briefs for exposure flights began right on time at 8am. Flights were
organized according to experience levels, with all new folks being
put in an aircraft with experienced formation pilots for one-on-one
training. We put up 4 `missions' throughout the day..each mission
contained between 8 and 10 flights.......flights consisting of mostly
4 ships with a couple 3 ships.......again..tailored to experience
levels. The `practice area' was divided into 10 sectors for the
different flights..each sector having an assigned frequency to keep
communications safe.
Of course, we took a well deserved lunch break in between the
missions :^)!! All this was observed by our beautiful Lancair Legacy
Photo Ship which was piloted by owner/builder Rob Logan. Dana Overall
from our group was snapping the photos and taking the video.
I'm sure we did a lot to promote general aviation over the course of
the day as LOTS of folks from the surrounding communities drove to
the airport and lined the fence to watch the `air show'.
Oh yea...I MUST comment on my last flight of the day on Saturday
(actually the 6th flight of the day for me....big smile). I know that
we are `all about' RV's...but, Rob Logan (photo ship) came up to me
and invited me for a ride in his Lancair Legacy......NO hesitation on
my part.....I was going to die if had to watch his bird make one more
Reno Air Race style pass down the runway from the ground! He did the
walk-around and strapped me in.....a couple minutes later and we were
rolling down the runway. All I can say is this is ONE SWEET
AIRPLANE!! And....FAST! Basically.it's a whole `nuther kind of
airplane than our RV's......and it's FAST! It's equipped for anything
that could come your way...and performs amazingly.....and did I
mention that it's FAST??? Thanks Rob....does anyone want to buy my F1
Rocket project??.....ha ha.
Saturday ended with a few FFI evaluations......then, dinner was
served at Mary's Plane View restaurant on the field. I'm not sure
what the folks did that were staying at the local hotel......but on
the way home to my place someone at the back of the minivan said they
wanted ice cream. Falcon, Kahuna, Speedy, and I stopped and topped
off the evening with `Flurrys' and cones......was nice to sit around
with all your buds eating ice cream like little kids. Falcon snapped
a once in a lifetime picture of Speedy eating a `playdough' cone that
I'm sure will pop up on a website sometime soon :^)!!
We got an extra hour of sleep on Saturday night...to bed at eleven
instead of midnight.......5 o'clock came real early. No biggie when
you know you're headed back to the airport for the `All Up' Formation
Sunday morning. For me....this is the climax of the weekend. Once at
the airport we had another great day ahead of us.....folks were
pulling their planes out of the hangars and the fuel island was
hopping. More donuts were being consumed as folks got ready for
the `All Up' briefing scheduled for 8am.
My daughters Lauren (11) and Kristen (9) were there as well...they
wanted to be the ones to draw the names for the giveaways that were
donated by Vans Aircraft, Cleaveland tools, Avery Tools, and PKB
airport. It was priceless to watch them as they handed out the gifts.
A HUGE thank you to those that contributed......be sure to buy your
tools from these folks.......and make your next aircraft purchase is
from Vans Aircraft.....yea right.....like I need to tell you that!
We went over the list of folks and came up with an experience level
that indicated 18 qualified pilots for the `All Up' formation. The
remaining pilots and passengers would ride right/back seat......this
would provide experience that they couldn't get anywhere else. I for
one was excited about the flight. I've flown in many large formations
in the past but have never been in the `Diamond of Diamonds'
formation....we had more than enough to satisfy my dream this Sunday
morning!
Falcon briefed the All Up formation..engine start time would be
10am...all watches were synchronized. As the seconds counted down,
the quiet morning was interrupted by the sound of 18 Lycomings coming
to life (sorry..no Subaru's or Rotarys were there this
weekend.....smile). Falcon called for the check in and Alpha, Bravo,
Charlie, Delta, and Echo flights responded as briefed. Falcon Flight
of 18 taxied into position on Runway 3 when cleared for take
off...that poor guy coming into the pattern in the Cessna 152 would
have to wait :^)!! We took off 4 x 4 x 4 x 4 x 2 then joined up for
the first of 4 passes in the racetrack pattern. The second pass was
the 'loose diamond of diamonds +2' followed by the 'arrowhead'
formation...then, we joined up for the 18 ship "diamond of
diamonds".....+2.(smile).
Our Lancair Photo Ship stayed busy taking pics of the various
formations from the air while other photos were being taken from the
ground. You should have seen most of the pics by now......if not..a
few of my favorites can be seen here (copied from Rob's site):
http://members9.clubphoto.com/rick398651/owner-e5f1-1.phtml
And Robert 'Salty' Saltsman's pics from the clinic can be seen here:
http://tny.se/19F
The rest are on Rob's site at:
http://rob.com/pix/pbk
The videos can be seen here:
http://rob.com/pix/pkb?page=11
Rob's favorite is this one:
http://rob.com/pix/pkb/2_G
Once the 18 aircraft were secured Falcon held the usual debrief with
all pilots and passengers from the flight.
After the debrief, it was time for lunch and departures. It was icing
on the cake to watch our Ohio Valley Rvators Cincinnati `Rats' 5 ship
depart in the 5 ship Vic formation. They did a textbook takeoff with
a left 270 degree turn over the tower and the ramp on the way out.
The flight looked and sounded awesome as they departed!! This was
followed by a 4 ship Team RV/Palmetto departure led by SuBob headed
back to the south. Blackhawk departures headed to the west, and folks
heading east formed up for multi-ship departures as well.....it was
bittersweet!!
It was a SUPER weekend.......and no incidents! We did some serious
flying and also some serious ribbing! Old friendships were rekindled
and new ones were formed.....all in the course of a 3 day weekend!
Thanks to Falcon, Kahuna and Team RV for their continued support of
our Ohio Valley RVators at the clinic (again).....you guys are
GREAT!! There is no one who does as much for the RV Formation Flying
community as these guys do!!
Thanks to PKB airport and their staff for a great facility and for
meeting all of our needs!!
Thanks again to Vans, Avery, and Cleaveland for their contributions!
Thanks to the unknown person (smile) that helped me with all of our
documents and materials.
Thanks to Dan `Danno' Lloyd our `Gadget Man' for ALL his help with
the audio/video......it don't happen without Danno'!!!
Thanks to Rob Logan for volunteering his time, gas, and Lancair for
the photo ship duties (and for the thriller ride)!
Thanks to Dana for taking the pics, Salty for his pics, and Dan
Woodfin for his pics....and any others who I missed :^)!
Thanks for all the GENEROUS DONATIONS that you folks offered to help
pay for all the incidentals...it looks like I won't go in the hole
this year..and, my little red haired wife says thanks too....big
smile!!
And....most of all......thanks to ALL of you that participated in the
clinic......there would be NO CLINIC without you!!!
He probably thought I'd forget....but, thanks to Bill `Lefty'
Connelly....my right hand man in running the clinic....YOU ARE THE
MAN!!!
Again, if you didn't make the clinic......hope to see you next
year....and remember....."You Snooze....You Looze"!!
Builders...Keep poundin' those rivets...it's all worth it!!
Rick at the Buffalo Farm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Firesleeving |
AFP recommends firesleeve on the flow meter/transducer.
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A Electrical
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving
>
> Ralph,
> According to the ACS catalog, page 122, the 303-4 hose uses AE102-9, the
> 303-6 uses
> AE102-12. Both firesleeve's use the 900591B-2C clamp.
> Don't think I've ever seen firesleeve on a flow meter/transducer.
>
> Ross Scroggs
> RV-4 #3911
> Locust Grove, GA.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
> To: ; ;
>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:38 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Firesleeving
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>>
>> Folks,
>>
>>>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler
>>>feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK
>>>with.
>>
>> Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved.....
>>
>> I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS
>> website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the
>> 303 hose that we're supposed to use.
>>
>> I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - including the
>> firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a pair of hoses
>> and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of
>> firesleeve to go over the flow meter.
>>
>> Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4,
>> 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ralph
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson(at)comcast.net> |
test
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firesleeving |
Thanks to Ross for the info....
Jerry's correct and the size they recommend for the flowmeter/transducer is -24
which ACS does not carry.
Anyone got a foot of -24 kicking around?
Either I was looking at the wrong page (likely) or ACS updated their website......
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jerry Grimmonpre <jerry(at)mc.net>
>Sent: May 3, 2006 12:19 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving
>
>
>AFP recommends firesleeve on the flow meter/transducer.
>Jerry Grimmonpre'
>RV8A Electrical
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ross Scroggs" <rv4ross(at)charter.net>
>To: ; ;
>
>Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:47 PM
>Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-List: Firesleeving
>
>
>>
>> Ralph,
>> According to the ACS catalog, page 122, the 303-4 hose uses AE102-9, the
>> 303-6 uses
>> AE102-12. Both firesleeve's use the 900591B-2C clamp.
>> Don't think I've ever seen firesleeve on a flow meter/transducer.
>>
>> Ross Scroggs
>> RV-4 #3911
>> Locust Grove, GA.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
>> To: ; ;
>>
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 9:38 AM
>> Subject: RV-List: Firesleeving
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
>>>
>>> Folks,
>>>
>>>>From what I've seen, most folks are not firesleeving their oil cooler
>>>>feed/return/pressure lines nor their fuel pressure line which I'm OK
>>>>with.
>>>
>>> Fuel feed/return lines I think need to be firesleeved.....
>>>
>>> I'm having a problem determining what size firesleeve to use. The ACS
>>> website has a table for their firesleeve parts which does not list the
>>> 303 hose that we're supposed to use.
>>>
>>> I'm getting ready to buy the stuff to build my fuel hoses - including the
>>> firesleeving. I'll be building an assembly that includes a pair of hoses
>>> and a fuel flow meter - I'm guessing that I'll need a larger chunk of
>>> firesleeve to go over the flow meter.
>>>
>>> Can anyone tell me what the correct size of Firesleeving is for a 303-4,
>>> 303-6, and Flowscan 201 fuel flow meter?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ralph
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
I must not understand how to search the archives correctly or perhaps what
words to use for this one. I know it was discussed before. Anyway....
Problem: I have an extra hole (in my Tailcone top skin, fellas, sheesh.)
I didn't even know I had it until I began peeling off the plastic to get
ready to final deburr my Tailcone front top skin. Sure enough there are two
holes in the corresponding tab of the rib. Picture attached. Van's says to
dimple and rivet and move on, since it's only one mistake in a long row of
good holes. However, the holes in the skin are so close together that any
dimpling will break through and make it a big hole. What to do?
John Jessen
~328 (this is my first mistake, of course)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 4:59 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
I grounded both through the nut plates. Nav and com work great. The com
needs to be lifted up so it is as vertical as possible. I riveted an extra
trip if alum to the bottom of the com antenna and then bent it so the
antenna could angle up. Randy
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)AOL.COM
Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact the
wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have suggestions?
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
I must not understand how to search the archives correctly or perhaps what
words to use for this one. I know it was discussed before. Anyway....
Problem: I have an extra hole (in my Tailcone top skin, fellas, sheesh.)
I didn't even know I had it until I began peeling off the plastic to get
ready to final deburr my Tailcone front top skin. Sure enough there are two
holes in the corresponding tab of the rib. Picture attached. Van's says to
dimple and rivet and move on, since it's only one mistake in a long row of
good holes. However, the holes in the skin are so close together that any
dimpling will break through and make it a big hole. What to do?
John Jessen
~328 (this is my first mistake, of course)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
If the extra hole has a bulkhead flange behind it, simply bond the hole to
the flange and move on. I wouldn't(Didn't) put an extra rivet( in my case).
I accidentally made an extra hole with the C frame but it didn't go as far
as make the dimple. Use a metal epoxy after sanding all pieces and rivet
the rest as usual. Prep before painting and you will never ever see it
again.
John G. 409
>From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
>Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 13:31:08 -0700
>
>I must not understand how to search the archives correctly or perhaps what
>words to use for this one. I know it was discussed before. Anyway....
>
>Problem: I have an extra hole (in my Tailcone top skin, fellas, sheesh.)
>
>I didn't even know I had it until I began peeling off the plastic to get
>ready to final deburr my Tailcone front top skin. Sure enough there are
>two
>holes in the corresponding tab of the rib. Picture attached. Van's says
>to
>dimple and rivet and move on, since it's only one mistake in a long row of
>good holes. However, the holes in the skin are so close together that any
>dimpling will break through and make it a big hole. What to do?
>
>John Jessen
> ~328 (this is my first mistake, of course)
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy DeBauw
>Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 4:59 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
>
>
>I grounded both through the nut plates. Nav and com work great. The com
>needs to be lifted up so it is as vertical as possible. I riveted an extra
>trip if alum to the bottom of the com antenna and then bent it so the
>antenna could angle up. Randy
>
>
> _____
>
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pilotdds(at)AOL.COM
>Sent: Tuesday, May 02, 2006 10:52 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
>
>
>Randy,I have a flying Rv-10.Panel was built by aerocraft.I am trying to
>mount Bob archer ant and am curious how you grounded it given the fact the
>wingtips slide inside the skin?Anyone else familiar and have suggestions?
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Randy DeBauw <Randy(at)abros.com>
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
>
>10.500 alt
>
>20.6 mp
>
>2300 rpm
>
>12.4 gph
>
>136 ind
>
>162 adj
>
>159 gs
>
>
>10,520 alt.
>
>11,390 density alt Dynon
>
>136kts ind
>
>160 kts adj.
>
>155 kts gs.
>
>12.2 gph
>
>62% power
>
>
>13,500
>
>13,610 adj dynon
>
>11.3 gph
>
>18.3 mp
>
>2300 rpm
>
>130 kts ind.
>
>162 kts adj
>
>12 gph
>
>151 kts gs (headwind)
>
>
>Randy N610RV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
John, put a doubler of the same (or slightly larger material behind the
correct hole (make it match the size of the double drilled tab) . match
drill it and then use a longer rivet when it comes time to rivet. you
could also consider all of the above and drill for a larger opps rivet.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
In a message dated 5/3/2006 4:57:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, jjessen(at)rcn.com
writes:
However, the holes in the skin are so close together that any dimpling will
break through and make it a big hole. What to do?
John,
I did this when i was dimpling the VS skin, and it moved before i hit
the dimpler, and then noticed... ouch! I flattened out the wrong hole and
dimpled the correct hole, and placed a rivet. The extra adjacent hole is tiny
at one edge of the rivet, and will be filled before i paint. There are more
then enough other rivets to hold it together. In your case, i would NOT dimple
it or the hole gets bigger and you can not fit another rivet in that close to
the correct hole. This is not as critical as... say an engine mount bolt hole.
Keep on going.......
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
Deems, thanks. I think that the problem I'm staring at is that if I do
anything to either hole in the skin, the tiny amount of metal between the
two holes will break through. I might try John G's suggestion of a metal
epoxy, which I've never heard about before this. Van's said that one rivet
will not be missed, so I think as long as the holes are deburred, if I can
even do that, so they don't split, then I might epoxy the skin to the tab at
that point and hope it holds.
John J 328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
John, put a doubler of the same (or slightly larger material behind the
correct hole (make it match the size of the double drilled tab) . match
drill it and then use a longer rivet when it comes time to rivet. you could
also consider all of the above and drill for a larger opps rivet.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole) |
Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
the best hole.
In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web site,
unless it's been done elsewhere.
Again, thanks.
John Jessen
328 tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 3:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
Deems, thanks. I think that the problem I'm staring at is that if I do
anything to either hole in the skin, the tiny amount of metal between the
two holes will break through. I might try John G's suggestion of a metal
epoxy, which I've never heard about before this. Van's said that one rivet
will not be missed, so I think as long as the holes are deburred, if I can
even do that, so they don't split, then I might epoxy the skin to the tab at
that point and hope it holds.
John J 328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
John, put a doubler of the same (or slightly larger material behind the
correct hole (make it match the size of the double drilled tab) . match
drill it and then use a longer rivet when it comes time to rivet. you could
also consider all of the above and drill for a larger opps rivet.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Back riveting the tailcone |
LET ME TRY TO EXPLAIN WITHOUT GOING OVERBOARD.
I did most of mine with a helper. Back rivetting most of everything. Most
of the bucking was done with a smaller heavy bar, but once the structure
starts getting some rigidity then multible rivets can be set with a long bar
like the one sold for doing the elevator, it is about 13 inches long.
One rivet at a time with every other hole clecoed at first helps to avoid
the mishap of the bucker holding the incorrect rivet and the setter
firing.....dent!
An order of commands helps also like bucker saying- ready, then setter
saying- ready, then bucker saying -Go. and then setter- firiing.
I turned the structure upside down and put mats down to protect my knees and
was inside the cone most of the time. Hearing protection a must.
The order follows the manual, but it gets a little more difficult with the
top skins. I did those from the outside, still back riveting, but I pulled
up the side of the top skin and then shot from the opposite side while my
partener was up on top standing on a milk crate.
At the very end some of the inner most rivets, like the longerons closest to
the H.S. get hard to access. Lay the cone on its Rt/Lf side and again come
in from underneath, meaning the hole in the side(THE FRONT TOP SKIN STAY
OFF) This will give you access while sanding up and bending to the inner
most guts of the project.
Watch out for hamstring cramps and lateral olbiques. Who knew that riveting
could be so good for stretching.
There are a couple of rivets which seem to require an dbl offset back rivet
set, you will realize what you need when you get there. I bought too long
of a back rivet offset for my 2X gun and it didn't work too well. I think
this one was made for a 3X gun, the mass of the gun inners and the set
didn't correlate well together.
Really explain the priciples to your helper..don't assume anything. Make
sure the gun stops before they remove the bar. It took a lot of work to get
this far on the structure. Explanations are good.
Hope this helps
John G. 409
Building is stopping as the thermals are upon us and my 60 feet of wing is
longing to be bent.
If it were not for us sailplaners, I'd tell Tim Olson to fly under the cloud
streets and throttle back on his way out to San Diego. He could save a lot
of fuel, but his occupants may not enjoy it so much...also look out for us
below cloud base. We do not fly at set altitudes based on direction.
Tim, In my opinion, I would perhaps think about a more northern route,
prettier and cooler. Sailplanes fly cross country by using alternates
landout spots, we need to be able to glide to our next alternate before we
fly on. In the Rv 10 un populated roads will work for landing sites but
look for them on you charts, road maps, satellite images and topo maps.
It is a great time of year. Cheers!!
>From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV10-List: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
>Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 17:41:32 -0700
>
>
>Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
>take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
>the best hole.
>
>In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
>rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
>one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
>"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web
>site,
>unless it's been done elsewhere.
>
>Again, thanks.
>
>John Jessen
> 328 tailcone
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
>Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 3:49 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
>
>
>Deems, thanks. I think that the problem I'm staring at is that if I do
>anything to either hole in the skin, the tiny amount of metal between the
>two holes will break through. I might try John G's suggestion of a metal
>epoxy, which I've never heard about before this. Van's said that one rivet
>will not be missed, so I think as long as the holes are deburred, if I can
>even do that, so they don't split, then I might epoxy the skin to the tab
>at
>that point and hope it holds.
>
>John J 328
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 2:19 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
>
>
>John, put a doubler of the same (or slightly larger material behind the
>correct hole (make it match the size of the double drilled tab) . match
>drill it and then use a longer rivet when it comes time to rivet. you could
>also consider all of the above and drill for a larger opps rivet.
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Fuse
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole) |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
John,
There is no rocket science to building the TC. I back rivetted all the
bottom and side skins solo. Careful positioning of the back rivet plate
and judicious use of some wooden wedges to position the TC is all I
used. It obviously took much longer solo than with a partner - but it
can be done. I only used a partner to help with the top skin and I am
delighted with the way the whole thing came out.
The only gotchas I can think of:
a. some rivets will require an offset back rivet set as John G. has
pointed out.
b. check that the bulkhead flanges lay flat against the skin - back
riveting helps this automatically (if you use the spring/collar back
rivet set). Otherwise use the eraser trick I posted the other day to
snug the flange to the skin
c. it is possible to backrivet those rivets that sit under the J
Channel. I used a hardware store hex head bolt with the head polished
and part of the bolt shaft ground out. With the rivet backed on the
plate, hit the bolt firmly with a solid hammer a few times for a perfect
rivet. Picture attached.
good luck
Ron
#187 fuse - about to start the lid.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Thursday, 4 May 2006 10:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going
to
take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I
deburr
the best hole.
In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to
back
rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't
found
one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents
the
"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web
site,
unless it's been done elsewhere.
Again, thanks.
John Jessen
328 tailcone
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 3:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
Deems, thanks. I think that the problem I'm staring at is that if I do
anything to either hole in the skin, the tiny amount of metal between
the
two holes will break through. I might try John G's suggestion of a
metal
epoxy, which I've never heard about before this. Van's said that one
rivet
will not be missed, so I think as long as the holes are deburred, if I
can
even do that, so they don't split, then I might epoxy the skin to the
tab at
that point and hope it holds.
John J 328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2006 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
John, put a doubler of the same (or slightly larger material behind the
correct hole (make it match the size of the double drilled tab) . match
drill it and then use a longer rivet when it comes time to rivet. you
could
also consider all of the above and drill for a larger opps rivet.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | elhershb(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Back riveting the tailcone |
We solved the bucking problem by building a stack of metal 2" wide x 14" long and
tall enough to clear the clecos. We sat this on the bench and slide it from
front to back as we back-riveted the stiffeners. We could do 10 to 15 rivets
at a time. This worked well for the bottom and both sides.
Once these were done and the top sheets were clecoed on, we sat the tailcone on
end. We raised it about 2' off the floor. Once it was secure one of us crawled
inside to buck the rivets, wearing hearing protection. This worked well as there
was no physical straining or worry about damaging the skins, frames and stiffeners.
Doing the round corners was the hardest. It took patiences and practice for us
to get some decent shop heads.
Edward Hershberger
#40430 (Wings)
> >From: "John Jessen"
> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: RV10-List: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
> >Date: Wed, 3 May 2006 17:41:32 -0700
> >
> >
> >Thanks, everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
> >take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
> >the best hole.
> >
> >In the meantime, has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
> >rivet the Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
> >one that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
> >"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web
> >site,
> >unless it's been done elsewhere.
> >
> >Again, thanks.
> >
> >John Jessen
> > 328 tailcone
> >
============================================================
We solved the bucking problem by building a stack of metal 2" wide x 14" long
and tall enough to clear the clecos. We sat this on the bench and slide it
from front to back as we back-riveted the stiffeners. We could do 10 to
15 rivets at a time. This worked well for the bottom and both sides.
Once these were done and the top sheets were clecoed on, we sat the tailcone
on end. We raised it about 2' off the floor. Once it was secure one of us crawled
inside to buck the rivets, wearing hearing protection. This worked well
as there was no physical straining or worry about damaging the skins, frames
and stiffeners.
Doing the round corners was the hardest. It took patiences and practice
for us to get some decent shop heads.
Edward Hershberger
#40430 (Wings)
<DIV>> >From: "John Jessen" <JJESSEN(at)RCN.COM><BR>> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject:
RV10-List: Back riveting the tailcone (was Errant hole)
> >Date:
posted by: "John Jessen"
> >
> >Thanks,
everyone, for helping out on the errant hole problem. I'm going to
>
>take a picture of the skin holes and give you a look at that after I deburr
> >the best hole.
> >
> >In the meantime,
has anyone documented in a step-by-step procedure to back
> >rivet the
Tailcone? I've visited a couple of web sites, but haven't found
> >one
that basically holds one's hand through the process and documents the
>
>"gotchas" along the way. I'll try to document the procedure on my web
> >site,
> >unless it's been d
one el
, List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
Ok. The holes are now no longer two. They joined as I thought they would
as soon as I tried to deburr the original. Here's a picture. Any further
advice?
John Jessen
328 Tailcone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
As Vans says 1 hole will not be missed ....stop stressing move on and
have fun....
Chris
RV6 VHMUM Sold
40388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
Hey John,
I will get my 2 cents in here.
As per your advice from Vans I don't think its a problem with strength. I would
use one of the oops rivets here just so that the hole gets cleaned out a bit.
Past that you can bond the two pieces if it makes you lfeel better but I wouldn't
loose sleep over it.
Niko
40188 Fuselage floors
----- Original Message ----
From: John Jessen <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2006 2:27:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone
Ok. The holes are now no longer two. They joined as I thought they would as soon
as I tried to deburr the original. Here's a picture. Any further advice?
John Jessen
328 Tailcone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions
on how to fix it?
The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce
a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only
to the nose ribs.
I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about 1/8
of an inch. I'm confident that
this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
Has anyone else seen this?
I could e-mail pictures if needed.
Thanks for the help.
Marc Hudson
marcandkathy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
Marc,
I had the same problem. Same emotional outburst when I looked at it
from the end. Filler will fix the problem. I haven't run into a similar
situation after I completed that component so the best advise is to not
dwell on it and fix it up at paint.
Dave Hertner
#40164
Waiting for QB to arrive.
----- Original Message -----
From: Marc and Kathy
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 8:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
suggestions on how to fix it?
The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and
produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and
only to the nose ribs.
I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward
about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that
this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
Has anyone else seen this?
I could e-mail pictures if needed.
Thanks for the help.
Marc Hudson
marcandkathy.com
-----
03/05/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
Ditto.
FWIW I looked @ the 2 Colorado Award winners @ OSH last year and they
had the Same thing.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
David Hertner wrote:
> Marc,
> I had the same problem. Same emotional outburst when I looked at it
> from the end. Filler will fix the problem. I haven't run into a
> similar situation after I completed that component so the best advise
> is to not dwell on it and fix it up at paint.
> Dave Hertner
> #40164
> Waiting for QB to arrive.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Marc and Kathy
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 04, 2006 8:46 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>
> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
> suggestions on how to fix it?
>
> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>
> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom
> and only to the nose ribs.
>
> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward
> about 1/8 of an inch. Im confident that
>
> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>
> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>
> Has anyone else seen this?
>
> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Marc Hudson
>
> marcandkathy.com
>
> 03/05/2006
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin(wet shims) |
Again, everybody seems to have experienced this.
When I noticed this I went back and re-did it a different way.
The problem seems to stem from the fact that the skin bend radius is
different from the radius of the nose ribs. We think the correct airfoil is
the rib shape plus the thickness of the skin.
I wrote something a while ago about doing something called wet shimming.
Those nose rib flanges can easily get slightly(Slightly) out of shape when
pounding on them with the rivet gun. Also the skin bend and the rib flanges
space aren't as tight toward the L.E..
I did a two step process of again using the Anchor Tite epoxy bond and
bonded only these nose rib flanges in and let it cure while most of the
spars and ribs were in place to hold the skin in the correct airfoil shape.
After cure, cleaned the holes, made sure the rivet lengths were still
correct, removed the internal structures to gain access and then riveted the
nose ribs while the structure is vertical and alternated each rivet set from
top to bottom going from L.E. to T.E.
The result was a big improvement from my first attempt, although still a
slight difference in contour.
You would be surprised how the H.S. skin sprung back when I removed the
first attempts rivet. I rebuilt the Vertical again using this technique
with all new parts when the service bulletin came out. That was the excuse
I needed. Be considerate of weight...use sparingly.
Just an anal kind of guy.
The other suggestions will work fine too.
John G.
>From: "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 06:46:35 -0600
>
>Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions
>on how to fix it?
>
>
>The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce
>a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>
>This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only
>to the nose ribs.
>
>I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about
>1/8
>of an inch. I'm confident that
>
>this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>
>
>Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>
>
>Has anyone else seen this?
>
>
>I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>
>Marc Hudson
>
>marcandkathy.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RV-10 Hartzell propeller available? |
Hi All,
Is there a RV-10 Hartzell propeller available for flight testing?
Someone on the RV-10 list suggested that it would be reasonable for an RV-10
builder who isn't using their Hartzell RV-10 propeller yet to make their
propeller available.
I am willing to pay the shipping costs both ways.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darton Steve <sfdarton(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
John,
I would cleco the skin to the underlying part and
re-match drill that one hole only, larger for an oops
rivet. If that hole is elongated I would then dimple
the skin and rib together. Move on and have fun, it's
not a big deal.
Steve 40212
--- John Jessen wrote:
> Ok. The holes are now no longer two. They joined
> as I thought they would
> as soon as I tried to deburr the original. Here's a
> picture. Any further
> advice?
>
> John Jessen
> 328 Tailcone.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Errant hole in top skin of Tailcone |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
John Jessen wrote:
> Ok. The holes are now no longer two. They joined as I thought they
> would as soon as I tried to deburr the original. Here's a
> picture. Any further advice?
>
> John Jessen
Hi John,
I'm not a metal working expert, nor do I play one on TV.... :-)
I think structurally you would be fine to leave it as many have suggested.
If it is a cosmetic thing (as it would be with me), perhaps use some of the
metal epoxy to fill in the hole in the skin, and in the rib, and then
re-drill it through the epoxy after it sets? I really don't know if
this will work, and
I'd recommend trying it on some scrap first. I'm also not sure about
being able
to dimple it afterwards.
I suppose you could cut the head off a flush rivet, and epoxy the
head of the rivet in the hole and then fill in the rest of the hole with the
epoxy. That should at least take care of the cosmetic part.
Or perhaps leave it as-is for now, and after you have riveted all of
the holes around this one,
you could literally epoxy an entire rivet into the hole and fill around
it with
the epoxy. You'd have to make a best effort at dimpling this hole as it
is now, though.
Dunno, I'm just thinking out loud here...
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
follow a bit easier to take.
You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll have
you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that problem. It
makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
Jeff Carpenter
40204
N410CF
Fuel Tanks
On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
> suggestions on how to fix it?
>
>
> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and =20=
> produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>
> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom
> and only to the nose ribs.
>
> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward
> about 1/8 of an inch. I=92m confident that
>
> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>
>
> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>
>
> Has anyone else seen this?
>
>
> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
>
> Marc Hudson
>
> marcandkathy.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Take a look here for a brief discussion.
http://www.soundingsresearch.com/RV-10/Problems/Problems_03.htm
John Jessen
328 Tailcone
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me included) has
had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have bigger cosmetic issues
along the way. Think of it as the first little scratch on your new car. It
makes all the scratches that follow a bit easier to take.
You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll have you
trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that problem. It makes you
wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
Jeff Carpenter
40204
N410CF
Fuel Tanks
On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are suggestions
on how to fix it?
The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and produce
a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and only
to the nose ribs.
I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about 1/8
of an inch. I'm confident that
this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
Has anyone else seen this?
I could e-mail pictures if needed.
Thanks for the help.
Marc Hudson
marcandkathy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not the V.S.
Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
John G.
No not archive
>From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
>
>Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me included) has
>had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have bigger cosmetic issues
>along the way. Think of it as the first little scratch on your new car.
>It makes all the scratches that follow a bit easier to take.
>
>You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll have you
>trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that problem. It makes you
>wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
>
>Jeff Carpenter
>40204
>N410CF
>Fuel Tanks
>
>
>On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
>
>>Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
>>suggestions on how to fix it?
>>
>>
>>
>>The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly and
>>produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>>
>>This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the bottom and
>>only to the nose ribs.
>>
>>I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin inward about
>>1/8 of an inch. Im confident that
>>
>>this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>>
>>
>>
>>Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>>
>>
>>
>>Has anyone else seen this?
>>
>>
>>
>>I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>>
>>
>>
>>Thanks for the help.
>>
>>
>>
>>Marc Hudson
>>
>>marcandkathy.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Verizon" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Performance numbers at highter alt. |
Randy;
I saw this report about props somewhere in my researching the RV-10 to
death. Seeing your plane was compared to Vic Syracuse and the company
plane, wondering if you could expand on this report, how valid is it?
Didn't see anything in the archives that covered if it did, please let
me know where to look as I find the 11mph loss of the MT prop on Vic's
plane compared to the 2 blade rather interesting.
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dents in HS Skin |
I stand corrected John... I had the problem on the VS (no warning)
and not the HS (warning). These memories are getting a bit old.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 4, 2006, at 10:53 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
> With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not
> the V.S. Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
>
> John G.
>
> No not archive
>
>
>> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
>> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
>>
>> Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
>> included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
>> bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
>> little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
>> follow a bit easier to take.
>>
>> You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll
>> have you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that
>> problem. It makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40204
>> N410CF
>> Fuel Tanks
>>
>>
>> On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
>>
>>> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
>>> suggestions on how to fix it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
>>> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>>>
>>> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the
>>> bottom and only to the nose ribs.
>>>
>>> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin
>>> inward about 1/8 of an inch. Im confident that
>>>
>>> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Has anyone else seen this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Marc Hudson
>>>
>>> marcandkathy.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> wiki.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Wellenzohn <michael(at)wellenzohn.net> |
| Subject: | Spraygun for priming |
Hello,
I just moved my workshop and built my spray box, and today I tried the
first time priming parts of the VS and it didn't turn out as good as I
thought it should have.
I wonder now if I should have bought a spray gun with the cup on top.
Any suggestion which one works better for small paint jobs.
Thanks for your help
Michael Wellenzohn #511 (VS)
www.wellenzohn.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spraygun for priming |
I've found that just about any cheap gun is good enough to
primer with if adjusted correctly. But for paint I am partial to Devilbis.
Plus I'm old school I prefer a cup gun to a gravity feed. But opinions are
like noses everybody has one.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 3:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Spraygun for priming
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I just moved my workshop and built my spray box, and today I tried the
> first time priming parts of the VS and it didn't turn out as good as I
> thought it should have.
> I wonder now if I should have bought a spray gun with the cup on top. Any
> suggestion which one works better for small paint jobs.
>
>
> Thanks for your help
>
> Michael Wellenzohn #511 (VS)
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bruce breckenridge" <bbreckenridge(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spraygun for priming |
I really like the simplicity and ease of use of "
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=3D1146783601-248-396&=
browse=3Dtools&product=3Dpaint-gun".
If the link doesn't fly, go to Van's website and it's web store and search
for "primer". A few choices down the page will reveal this little gun
that's super easy to use and clean. We're not talking about applying the
perfect showroom quality layer of primer - this little guy is great for
protecting the inside of the plane where no one will see! I've used it
through the elevators, and will probably continue with the tailcone, but it
may be a little small for the larger sheets.
Bruce
40018
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Guess I didn't make myself clear enough in the first post. It
wasn't caused by not trimming the nose of the rib but rather
it is pulling the skin down on the top of the HS almost like the
rib was not tall enough.
I've attached a picture for all to see.
Thanks for the help.
Marc
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
I stand corrected John... I had the problem on the VS (no warning)
and not the HS (warning). These memories are getting a bit old.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On May 4, 2006, at 10:53 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
> With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not
> the V.S. Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
>
> John G.
>
> No not archive
>
>
>> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
>> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
>>
>> Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
>> included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
>> bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
>> little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
>> follow a bit easier to take.
>>
>> You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll
>> have you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that
>> problem. It makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40204
>> N410CF
>> Fuel Tanks
>>
>>
>> On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
>>
>>> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
>>> suggestions on how to fix it?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
>>> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
>>>
>>> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the
>>> bottom and only to the nose ribs.
>>>
>>> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin
>>> inward about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that
>>>
>>> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Has anyone else seen this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Marc Hudson
>>>
>>> marcandkathy.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> wiki.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look
fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how
well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback on
how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so,
how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel plumbing
and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak after
everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Spraygun for priming |
Mike
I use a gun that Harbor Freight had on sale for $15. It's a top feed gun
and works great. Have a look at harborfreight.com and do a search for item
number 47016.
Good luck
Marc Hudson
Marcandkathy.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 2:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Spraygun for priming
Hello,
I just moved my workshop and built my spray box, and today I tried the
first time priming parts of the VS and it didn't turn out as good as I
thought it should have.
I wonder now if I should have bought a spray gun with the cup on top.
Any suggestion which one works better for small paint jobs.
Thanks for your help
Michael Wellenzohn #511 (VS)
www.wellenzohn.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
buy some caps for the lines at the fuselage. install the complete brake
cylinders and lines and firewall tank. Then get a squirting oil can and
put 5606 in it connect a flexible tube to the fuselage fittings after
removing the caps. squirt the 5606 into each brake line and you will
begin to see it move up in the system into the clear nylon tubes and
into the tank. once it is near full (bubbles gone) you can them cap each
line and press on the brake pedals. braking will make any leaks readily
apparent. Also you can install each fitting with fuel lube on the
threads of the AN fittings. Questions give me a call at 480-832-5295.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look
fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how
well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback
on how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so,
how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel
plumbing and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak
after everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks David - that's just the solution I was looking for. I had read
somewhere that fuel lube was not a good idea on flared fittings - only
tapered pipe fittings. Is this acceptable practice?
thanks again,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, 5 May 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
buy some caps for the lines at the fuselage. install the complete brake
cylinders and lines and firewall tank. Then get a squirting oil can and
put 5606 in it connect a flexible tube to the fuselage fittings after
removing the caps. squirt the 5606 into each brake line and you will
begin to see it move up in the system into the clear nylon tubes and
into the tank. once it is near full (bubbles gone) you can them cap each
line and press on the brake pedals. braking will make any leaks readily
apparent. Also you can install each fitting with fuel lube on the
threads of the AN fittings. Questions give me a call at 480-832-5295.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron <mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have no
prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares look
fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no idea how
well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any feedback on
how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak, and if so,
how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel plumbing
and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak after
everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brake lines and Flared Fittings |
we are not putting fuel lube on the flare but on the threads where the B
nut goes. One other thing I assume you are using the proper aviation
flaring tool providing 100? degree flares. I had one leak that was fixed
by tightening one B nut.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
Thanks David - that's just the solution I was looking for. I had read
somewhere that fuel lube was not a good idea on flared fittings - only
tapered pipe fittings. Is this acceptable practice?
thanks again,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, 5 May 2006 12:08 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
buy some caps for the lines at the fuselage. install the complete
brake cylinders and lines and firewall tank. Then get a squirting oil
can and put 5606 in it connect a flexible tube to the fuselage fittings
after removing the caps. squirt the 5606 into each brake line and you
will begin to see it move up in the system into the clear nylon tubes
and into the tank. once it is near full (bubbles gone) you can them cap
each line and press on the brake pedals. braking will make any leaks
readily apparent. Also you can install each fitting with fuel lube on
the threads of the AN fittings. Questions give me a call at
480-832-5295.
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Brake lines and Flared Fittings
G'day all,
Finished plumbing the brake lines in the fuse last night. I have
no prior experience with flared fittings, and although all the flares
look fine to me (nicely burnished, no cracks, symmetrical) I have no
idea how well these connections perform.
Can any one with experience in these connections provide any
feedback on how well these fittings seal? Specifically, do they leak,
and if so, how are they fixed if they do?
Is there a way of leak testing the brake system before the fuel
plumbing and upper forward fuse is installed? Is finding/fixing a leak
after everything is installed a problem? I'd hate to have to remove and
reinstall the lines to fix a problem.
Thanks in advance,
Ron
187 fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
Marc,
This is typical of all the RV-10's I have seen, except I have only seen 4. I quit
worrying about it after I looked at both of Van's RV-10's. Mine and Bob Kayfmann's
here in Las Vegas are just like that. Only thing you want to make sure
of is that the flanges on the rib fully contact the skin and that you made sure
the flanges were 90 degrees from the web of the rib itself. The other posts
addressed the problem of the leading edge of the rib causing the skin to crease
at the rib, you don't seem to have that problem. Bright shiney aluminum tends
to acentuate any minor deviations from absolute flat. I borrowed a pic from
Mike Howe's site where his stab is hanging on the wall and you can easily see
the same thing. Drive on!! you got lots more to do!
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finish
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose wheel axle is too long. |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I've noticed that my nose wheel axle is too long and with
the proper toque on the bolt, there is way to much side to side play of
the wheel on the axle. I sent a message to Van's and they just said to
shorten it. I figured this out myself, but want to give then a chance
to see if they address this issue with new parts? What did everyone
else do to address this issue and what method did you use to shorten the
axle?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (First flight on May 26th)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Specketer" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel axle is too long. |
My axel was too long and the bearing would not rotate as it should, it only
rotated between the axel and the bearing not allowing the balls to rotate.
I fabricated a spacer to put pressure on the bearing to make it work
correctly. Vans told me that they are aware of the problem but do not have
a solution. We builders should fabricate a fix and let them know what we
make.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 2:38 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nose wheel axle is too long.
I've noticed that my nose wheel axle is too long and with the
proper toque on the bolt, there is way to much side to side play of the
wheel on the axle. I sent a message to Van's and they just said to shorten
it. I figured this out myself, but want to give then a chance to see if
they address this issue with new parts? What did everyone else do to
address this issue and what method did you use to shorten the axle?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (First flight on May 26th)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel axle is too long. |
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
We didn't have this problem. Ours seems to have been the right size, both
times.
> I've noticed that my nose wheel axle is too long and with
> the proper toque on the bolt, there is way to much side to side play of
> the wheel on the axle. I sent a message to Van's and they just said to
> shorten it. I figured this out myself, but want to give then a chance
> to see if they address this issue with new parts? What did everyone
> else do to address this issue and what method did you use to shorten the
> axle?
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
>
> 40250 (First flight on May 26th)
>
>
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Dents in HS Skin |
If you go back and read my original post along with some of the things
others have said it should make sense why this happens. Rick's post from
today is the bottom line.
You might see this again when you make the elevator trim tabs.
Think about this, in the case of the Horizontal stab it is the leading edge
bend and the nose rib shape.
With the elevator trim parts you bend the aluminum in a bender and if you do
not make the trailing edge bend tight enough, when you go to glue the foam
ribs in place you will be squeezing the metal skin in to the ribs more than
the non rib supported skin wants to be so in the end you might see a
depression where the ribs are sucking in the skin.
My epoxy worked better by allowing the H.S. skin L.E. bend dictatethe shape
of the airfoil in conjunction with the ribs and spars. Any gap between the
inside skin and the rib flange was filled with epoxy, that is why I
rechecked the rivet lengths. This even with the rib flanges 90 degrees to
the web.
Bottom line, it is good you are seeing the issue and thinking about why it
happens.
John G.
>From: "Marc and Kathy" <marchudson(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 17:04:16 -0600
>
>Guess I didn't make myself clear enough in the first post. It
>wasn't caused by not trimming the nose of the rib but rather
>it is pulling the skin down on the top of the HS almost like the
>rib was not tall enough.
>
>I've attached a picture for all to see.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Marc
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter
>Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 12:42 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
>
>
>I stand corrected John... I had the problem on the VS (no warning)
>and not the HS (warning). These memories are getting a bit old.
>
>Jeff Carpenter
>40304
>
>
>On May 4, 2006, at 10:53 AM, John Gonzalez wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > With instructions for kit #409 they said trim the H.S. ribs but not
> > the V.S. Even when trimmed there still is an issue.
> >
> > John G.
> >
> > No not archive
> >
> >
> >> From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
> >> Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dents in HS Skin
> >> Date: Thu, 4 May 2006 10:06:03 -0700
> >>
> >> Everyone who didn't trim the edge of the nose rib a bit (me
> >> included) has had this problem. It's upsetting, but you'll have
> >> bigger cosmetic issues along the way. Think of it as the first
> >> little scratch on your new car. It makes all the scratches that
> >> follow a bit easier to take.
> >>
> >> You'll find that later in the empennage instruction set they'll
> >> have you trim the ribs on another part to avoid just that
> >> problem. It makes you wonder why they don't warn you on the HS.
> >>
> >> Jeff Carpenter
> >> 40204
> >> N410CF
> >> Fuel Tanks
> >>
> >>
> >> On May 4, 2006, at 5:46 AM, Marc and Kathy wrote:
> >>
> >>> Was wondering if anyone else had this problem and if there are
> >>> suggestions on how to fix it?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> The nose ribs of the horizontal stab pull the skins in slightly
> >>> and produce a dent in the skins on the rivet line.
> >>>
> >>> This is only happening on the top side of the skins not the
> >>> bottom and only to the nose ribs.
> >>>
> >>> I have measured the worst looking one and it pulls the skin
> >>> inward about 1/8 of an inch. I'm confident that
> >>>
> >>> this is cosmetic only however it is still upsetting.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Will I be able to fill this in with Superfill before painting?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Has anyone else seen this?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> I could e-mail pictures if needed.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Thanks for the help.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Marc Hudson
> >>>
> >>> marcandkathy.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> > wiki.matronics.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
><< DSC05222.jpg >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Nose wheel stem clearance |
I installed my nose wheel last night and had the same issue as others
with the stem clearance. Even with the cap off, there was not enough
clearance for comfort. I thought -" if I could bend the stem slightly I
would be OK" - NOT!
"Boys and girls - don't try this at home."
The stem will break off at the threads.."so I am told" I am now looking
at the tube + shipping to get back to the same place. In searching the
archives someone had used a Desser tube on a different RV. Has anyone
found a good replacement for the supplied nose tube that will work with
the supplied rim and tire? It would be great to drop a different tube in
- that had a shorter stem rather than back to the same situation. The
alternative would be the other wheel "NW511.25" + tube + .
Any info would be appreciated.
Byron #40253 on gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimental, right? |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Skin Dimple Die Set |
Cleaveland sells a "Tank Skin Dimple Die Set" that makes a deeper
dimple to allow room for the proseal. I'm about to dimple the tank
skins and am curious if those that have used it are happy they did
and those that didn't wish they had? Or, to ask the question another
way... is it worth the 36 bucks?
The archive discusses this briefly... but the limited discussion
leads me to believe that most builders have done without it.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
N410CF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert G. Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | QB Wings conduit |
Anyone with a tip for reaching the inboard ribs' snap bushing holes to
enlarge them for conduit?
Rob
#392 Wings (and finishing a couple of empennage things)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Skin Dimple Die Set |
Jeff,
I have already completed my tanks, and I did use the "tank dimple
dies" for the ribs and stiffeners - but I used the regular dies for the
skins so there would be room for the proseal between the parts.
It worked great; No leaks at all when I tested the tanks.
-Jim 40384
Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>
> Cleaveland sells a "Tank Skin Dimple Die Set" that makes a deeper
> dimple to allow room for the proseal. I'm about to dimple the tank
> skins and am curious if those that have used it are happy they did
> and those that didn't wish they had? Or, to ask the question another
> way... is it worth the 36 bucks?
>
> The archive discusses this briefly... but the limited discussion
> leads me to believe that most builders have done without it.
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
> N410CF
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: QB Wings conduit |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Rob,
Get yourself a steel rod and make an extension for a UNIBIT. After enlarging
the holes to 3/4 inch, put in Tenite Butyrate tubing. This stuff is very lightweight
and strong, yet flexible. No snapbushing needed when using this tubing.
Get the 1/32 wall thickness, 3/4 OD. Part number is 42124.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=usplastic&category%5Fname=78&product%5Fid=4905
Joe
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33258#33258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | QB Wings conduit |
Either an extension for a unibit or an angle drill that will hold it.
For
others, it would be a good idea to drill the holes to final size before
riveting the ribs to the spar. Another suggestion is to cleco and match
drill both top and bottom skins before riveting any of them. That makes
it
a lot easier to debur and dimple.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB Wings conduit
Anyone with a tip for reaching the inboard ribs=92 snap bushing holes to
enlarge them for conduit?
Rob
#392 Wings (and finishing a couple of empennage things)
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Howdy all,
I was working the aileron pushrod assemblies yesterday. Figure 2 of
39-2 indicates an F-1064 length of 12 5/8". The supplied F-1064 in my
kit is 13 1/16" (for both pushrods). Interestingly, the supplied F-1065
is 20 1/2", the same as called for in the plans.
When the 30 1/16" F-1064s are used with the 1/2" pushrod sleeves, the
total assembly length comes in at 15 1/2", well over the 14 7/8" called
for in the plans. If the two pushrod sleeves are removed, the assembly
can easily be adjusted to 14 7/8". Photos attached.
Obvious solution is to trim the F-1064s to the correct length. But these
are pre drilled and threaded and trimming will also remove some of the
thread. I don't know whether there will be sufficient thread depth if
trimmed. The other option is to halve the size of the sleeves, or
exclude them all together.
Pictures on other web sites (eg Tim O.'s) have the collars included. If
the F-1064 length is maintained at 13 1/16", why are the collars
required? Have others experienced this problem?
as always, thanks in advance
Ron
187 fuse.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Large <catalyticeric(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | QB Wings conduit |
I think I used the unibit in a small die grinder to add additional wire runs.
Eric Large
Jesse Saint wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Either an extension
for a unibit or an angle drill that will hold it. For others, it would be
a good idea to drill the holes to final size before riveting the ribs to the
spar. Another suggestion is to cleco and match drill both top and bottom skins
before riveting any of them. That makes it a lot easier to debur and dimple.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G. Wright
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB Wings conduit
Anyone with a tip for reaching the inboard ribs snap bushing holes to enlarge
them for conduit?
Rob
#392 Wings (and finishing a couple of empennage things)
--
--
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Cowl hinge shims |
Did anyone work out what you use for the shims for hinges on
cowls.....checked archives and people seem to be using from trim bundle????
Chris 388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
I actually got one rod 12 5/8" and one 13 1/16", so I called Vans. They
said they were changing to the longer rod and eliminating the sleeves.
Just put them together with out the sleeves.
Larry Rosen
#356
McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> Howdy all,
>
> I was working the aileron pushrod assemblies yesterday. Figure 2 of
> 39-2 indicates an F-1064 length of 12 5/8". The supplied F-1064 in my
> kit is 13 1/16" (for both pushrods). Interestingly, the supplied
> F-1065 is 20 1/2", the same as called for in the plans.
>
> When the 30 1/16" F-1064s are used with the 1/2" pushrod sleeves, the
> total assembly length comes in at 15 1/2", well over the 14 7/8"
> called for in the plans. If the two pushrod sleeves are removed, the
> assembly can easily be adjusted to 14 7/8". Photos attached.
>
> Obvious solution is to trim the F-1064s to the correct length. But
> these are pre drilled and threaded and trimming will also remove some
> of the thread. I don't know whether there will be sufficient thread
> depth if trimmed. The other option is to halve the size of the
> sleeves, or exclude them all together.
>
> Pictures on other web sites (eg Tim O.'s) have the collars included.
> If the F-1064 length is maintained at 13 1/16", why are the collars
> required? Have others experienced this problem?
>
> as always, thanks in advance
>
> Ron
> 187 fuse.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | QB Wings conduit |
I bought a long 3/8" bit to go through the 3 inboard ribs and a unibit
with
extension for the rest.
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com"jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
QB canopy install
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Large
Sent: Sunday, May 07, 2006 8:02 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: QB Wings conduit
I think I used the unibit in a small die grinder to add additional wire
runs.
Eric Large
Jesse Saint wrote:
Either an extension for a unibit or an angle drill that will hold it.
For
others, it would be a good idea to drill the holes to final size before
riveting the ribs to the spar. Another suggestion is to cleco and match
drill both top and bottom skins before riveting any of them. That makes
it
a lot easier to debur and dimple.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert G.
Wright
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: RV10-List: QB Wings conduit
Anyone with a tip for reaching the inboard ribs=92 snap bushing holes to
enlarge them for conduit?
Rob
#392 Wings (and finishing a couple of empennage things)
--
--
_____
"http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt31132/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?pro=
mote
mail"Get it on your phone.
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic squeezer |
Hello everybody, after having solved my priming issue I started to hit my
first rivets and it worked out pretty good. I still have one issue. I tried
to use the pneumatic squeezer to squeeze the rivets AD4-7 but it didn't
work. The squeezer didn't seem to have enough power although I set the
pressure to 8 bar. Anybody any idea why it's not working?
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (VS)
Zurich,Switzerland
michael(at)wellenzohn.net
www.wellenzohn.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer |
You have the dies too close together, and the cam inside the squeezer
can't get over center. The squeezer develops all of its force in the
last 1/8" or so of travel. If you're using an adjustable set, back it
off some. If you're using washers, take one or two out.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hello everybody, after having solved my priming issue I started to hit my
> first rivets and it worked out pretty good. I still have one issue. I tried
> to use the pneumatic squeezer to squeeze the rivets AD4-7 but it didn't
> work. The squeezer didn't seem to have enough power although I set the
> pressure to 8 bar. Anybody any idea why it's not working?
>
>
> Michael Wellenzohn
> #40511 (VS)
> Zurich,Switzerland
> michael(at)wellenzohn.net
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic squeezer |
In a message dated 5/8/2006 3:02:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
michael(at)wellenzohn.net writes:
The squeezer didn't seem to have enough power although I set the
pressure to 8 bar. Anybody any idea why it's not working?
The squeezer has its most power at the end of the stroke. If it hits the
rivet too soon, it wont compress. Try on a scrap piece and open the gap up
on the squezer... and make small incremental changes until it works,..... then
rivet away. I remember a few places where i set a bunch of rivets and then
reset the depth and re-squeezed to get the shop head to the right size... very
easy second hit, as the rivet is not able to move.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Pneumatic squeezer |
The other replies are correct... The following table is a good starting
place. It says hand squeezer but applies to both hand and pneumatic.
If
the list won't pass the table it can be found here:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/instructions/squeezer_setup_table.html
Table Shows Mathematically Derived Gap Between Squeezer Sets for Various
Rivet Sizes
-3 Rivet Length
-3.5 Rivet Length
-4 Rivet Length
-4.5 Rivet Length
-5 Rivet Length
-6 Rivet Length
-7 Rivet Length
3/32" Diameter Rivet
3/32"
1/8"
5/32"
3/16"
7/32"
9/32"
11/32"
1/8" Diameter Rivet
1/16"
3/32"
1/8"
5/32"
3/16"
1/4"
5/16"
The "Gap" referred to is the distance between the flat or cup sets when
the
handle is fully closed on the hand squeezer, and when the trigger is
fully
depressed on the pneumatic squeezer. These measurements are just a
place to
start and will vary with the exact material thickness, the flex of the
squeezer yoke, mounting pins, internal part loading, and compression of
the
sets in the yoke and ram. If you start with these measurements you can
measure the finished rivet with the rivet gauge, and adjust to fine
tune.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 1:57 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Pneumatic squeezer
Hello everybody, after having solved my priming issue I started to hit
my
first rivets and it worked out pretty good. I still have one issue. I
tried
to use the pneumatic squeezer to squeeze the rivets AD4-7 but it didn't
work. The squeezer didn't seem to have enough power although I set the
pressure to 8 bar. Anybody any idea why it's not working?
Michael Wellenzohn
#40511 (VS)
Zurich,Switzerland
michael(at)wellenzohn.net
www.wellenzohn.net
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel Valve Extension |
| From: | "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti(at)boeing.com> |
Tim Olsen,
I believe it was you who extended the fuel value stem to allow lowering
the unit. Can you provide some info on the extension?
Thank You
Rick Conti
Senior Engineering Manager
The Boeing Company
office: 703 - 414 - 6141
blackberry: 571 - 215 - 6134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Cc:
Aileron Pushrod AssembliesHere is a picture of my system. lines will go
though the firewall and be split between the air intake and the top of
the engine; possibly a third line will go into the tunnel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
All,
For those yet to hit this point, response from Vans:
"Current DWG 39-5 (Rev 1) shows 1064 13 1/8 for hex rod and overall
length 14 7/8. F-1065 is hex rod: 20 1/2 and overall: 22 5/8.
There are no sleeves, just rod-end bearings and jam nuts.
If these lengths of pushrod are in your kit, I would expect DWG 39-5 to
show this. Check to see if you have revision 1."
I have rev 0 of the plans. Checked Vans website and there is no rev 1
in the "Service Information/Revisions" Section. Does anyone have a list
of the CURRENT drawings by any chance? I wonder how many other drawings
are out of date (a good chunk of Sections 26 and 29 I bet!)
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Monday, 8 May 2006 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
I actually got one rod 12 5/8" and one 13 1/16", so I called Vans. They
said they were changing to the longer rod and eliminating the sleeves.
Just put them together with out the sleeves.
Larry Rosen
#356
McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> Howdy all,
>
> I was working the aileron pushrod assemblies yesterday. Figure 2 of
> 39-2 indicates an F-1064 length of 12 5/8". The supplied F-1064 in my
> kit is 13 1/16" (for both pushrods). Interestingly, the supplied
> F-1065 is 20 1/2", the same as called for in the plans.
>
> When the 30 1/16" F-1064s are used with the 1/2" pushrod sleeves, the
> total assembly length comes in at 15 1/2", well over the 14 7/8"
> called for in the plans. If the two pushrod sleeves are removed, the
> assembly can easily be adjusted to 14 7/8". Photos attached.
>
> Obvious solution is to trim the F-1064s to the correct length. But
> these are pre drilled and threaded and trimming will also remove some
> of the thread. I don't know whether there will be sufficient thread
> depth if trimmed. The other option is to halve the size of the
> sleeves, or exclude them all together.
>
> Pictures on other web sites (eg Tim O.'s) have the collars included.
> If the F-1064 length is maintained at 13 1/16", why are the collars
> required? Have others experienced this problem?
>
> as always, thanks in advance
>
> Ron
> 187 fuse.
>
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
| From: | "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com> |
The 198 mph number on my plane was before I found the rigging problem.
After running the numbers Ken Kruger recommended that I check the
rigging. On the way home from Oshkosh I found that the Ailerons were
3/8" of an inch down from the flaps. I must not of had the flaps all of
the way up when I set the Ailerons to match. I have not rerun the
flight test to get a more accurate number. Randy
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Verizon
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
Randy;
I saw this report about props somewhere in my researching the RV-10 to
death. Seeing your plane was compared to Vic Syracuse and the company
plane, wondering if you could expand on this report, how valid is it?
Didn't see anything in the archives that covered if it did, please let
me know where to look as I find the 11mph loss of the MT prop on Vic's
plane compared to the 2 blade rather interesting.
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
10.500 alt
20.6 mp
2300 rpm
12.4 gph
136 ind
162 adj
159 gs
10,520 alt.
11,390 density alt Dynon
136kts ind
160 kts adj.
155 kts gs.
12.2 gph
62% power
13,500
13,610 adj dynon
11.3 gph
18.3 mp
2300 rpm
130 kts ind.
162 kts adj
12 gph
151 kts gs (headwind)
Randy N610RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Tank Baffle Orientation |
The lower flange of the tank baffle has two closely spaced holes at
the center that match up with two closely spaced holes on the bottom
of the tank skin. I've managed to assemble and drill the tank baffle
to the ribs, Attach Z's and skin with the two closely spaced holes of
the baffle facing up instead of down. This is the only asymmetrical
aspect of the baffle orientation that I can see.
It seems that the solution is to drill out the 2nd holes and put in
an extra rivet. Does anyone see a problem with this?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
N410CF
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Off Field Landing |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Does anyone have information about an off field landing of an RV-10 in
the west about 2 weeks ago? I heard from a local pilot that a -10 that
had recently visited SBP (San Luis Obispo) then later in the week made a
forced landing due to engine failure. The local pilot had strong
feelings that the failure was related to fuel vapor lock.
I am sorry for the sketchy information but it would be of benefit to
learn the particulars.
Robin
RV-6A 300 hours
RV-10 Tail Feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tank Baffle Orientation |
Jeff,
That extra hole determines the top of the baffle, look at your skins and you will
see that there are two holes close to each other on one side of the skin about
midway and not the other side of the skin. Make sure you get the baffle in
the right orientation or you will match drill an extra hole where you don't need
one....ask me how I know.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
This is probably going to fall under the "stupid question" category, but I
have a Slick Magneto and the wiring harness came separately. There doesn't
seem to be any key or marking showing what direction it should be mounted,
although it could be I just can't see it due to the proximity to the
firewall. My obvious choice was to put the "LH" label on the outside. Any
other suggestions.
Thanks,
Marcus
Fuselage going to the hanger soon, wiring almost complete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod AssembliesRon,
My plans are marked 39-5 Rev 1.
As for sections 26 thru 29 revs as per the Vans web listing.
John
40315
----- Original Message -----
From: McGANN, Ron
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 9:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
All,
For those yet to hit this point, response from Vans:
"Current DWG 39-5 (Rev 1) shows 1064 13 1/8 for hex rod and overall
length 14 7/8. F-1065 is hex rod: 20 1/2 and overall: 22 5/8.
There are no sleeves, just rod-end bearings and jam nuts.
If these lengths of pushrod are in your kit, I would expect DWG 39-5
to show this. Check to see if you have revision 1."
I have rev 0 of the plans. Checked Vans website and there is no rev 1
in the "Service Information/Revisions" Section. Does anyone have a list
of the CURRENT drawings by any chance? I wonder how many other drawings
are out of date (a good chunk of Sections 26 and 29 I bet!)
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Rosen
Sent: Monday, 8 May 2006 10:31 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
I actually got one rod 12 5/8" and one 13 1/16", so I called Vans.
They
said they were changing to the longer rod and eliminating the sleeves.
Just put them together with out the sleeves.
Larry Rosen
#356
McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> Howdy all,
>
> I was working the aileron pushrod assemblies yesterday. Figure 2 of
> 39-2 indicates an F-1064 length of 12 5/8". The supplied F-1064 in
my
> kit is 13 1/16" (for both pushrods). Interestingly, the supplied
> F-1065 is 20 1/2", the same as called for in the plans.
>
> When the 30 1/16" F-1064s are used with the 1/2" pushrod sleeves,
the
> total assembly length comes in at 15 1/2", well over the 14 7/8"
> called for in the plans. If the two pushrod sleeves are removed,
the
> assembly can easily be adjusted to 14 7/8". Photos attached.
>
> Obvious solution is to trim the F-1064s to the correct length. But
> these are pre drilled and threaded and trimming will also remove
some
> of the thread. I don't know whether there will be sufficient thread
> depth if trimmed. The other option is to halve the size of the
> sleeves, or exclude them all together.
>
> Pictures on other web sites (eg Tim O.'s) have the collars included.
> If the F-1064 length is maintained at 13 1/16", why are the collars
> required? Have others experienced this problem?
>
> as always, thanks in advance
>
> Ron
> 187 fuse.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.c=
om/Navigator?RV10-List
Wiki!
HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
support!
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/cont=
ribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Richard Dudley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Richard Dudley
Lists: AeroElectric-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List,RV-List
Subject: Groundpower jack
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rhdudley1@bellsouth.net.05.08.2006/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
The next "challenge" you will find is when aileron
pushrods get installed onto the wing. I suspect that
everyone without a teardrop shaped aperture on the
rear spar will be doing some grinding soon... The
point of the "drop" goes a little into the hinge
itself. You can mount it up and see the clearance
issue right away with the retangular hole that came
stock from Van's. Randy had to widen. I will on kit
40150. Factory plane also has this cut out to a tear
drop shape to prevent rubbing/binding. I snapped a pic
of this awhile ago on the factory plane.
Not sure why this is not a revision from Van's.
Perhaps it has changed on kits beyond mine? I pointed
it out here about 2-3 months ago when I was worried
about the range of travel for autopilots and worked
with Randy to get the numbers for his.
Make sure you have full range of travel without any
rubbing or binding. To check full range to need wings
linked or measure angles. There is only one hard stop
for travel per wing (together they are full stops)
Eric
--- Rick wrote:
---------------------------------
I love when you get to the next step the day before
me!!! :) My 1064 rods are 13-1/8" if I went off the
plans I would have had to cut them to 12-5/8" and use
bushings. Thanks to your post...I don't have to make
the bushings or cut the rods!!!! Thanks Mate!!! This
time you saved me!!
One more Shrimp on the Barbie I owe ya!!
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Panning <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
I thought at one point the RV-10 was going to have a
negative flap position for better cruise speeds. Does
anyone recall this as well? is full up zero or
slightly negative?
Eric
--- Randy DeBauw wrote:
> The 198 mph number on my plane was before I found
> the rigging problem.
> After running the numbers Ken Kruger recommended
> that I check the
> rigging. On the way home from Oshkosh I found that
> the Ailerons were
> 3/8" of an inch down from the flaps. I must not of
> had the flaps all of
> the way up when I set the Ailerons to match. I have
> not rerun the
> flight test to get a more accurate number. Randy
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Verizon
> Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at
> highter alt.
>
>
>
> Randy;
>
> I saw this report about props somewhere in my
> researching the RV-10 to
> death. Seeing your plane was compared to Vic
> Syracuse and the company
> plane, wondering if you could expand on this report,
> how valid is it?
>
> Didn't see anything in the archives that covered if
> it did, please let
> me know where to look as I find the 11mph loss of
> the MT prop on Vic's
> plane compared to the 2 blade rather interesting.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:35 AM
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter
> alt.
>
>
>
> 10.500 alt
>
> 20.6 mp
>
> 2300 rpm
>
> 12.4 gph
>
> 136 ind
>
> 162 adj
>
> 159 gs
>
>
>
> 10,520 alt.
>
> 11,390 density alt Dynon
>
> 136kts ind
>
> 160 kts adj.
>
> 155 kts gs.
>
> 12.2 gph
>
> 62% power
>
>
>
> 13,500
>
> 13,610 adj dynon
>
> 11.3 gph
>
> 18.3 mp
>
> 2300 rpm
>
> 130 kts ind.
>
> 162 kts adj
>
> 12 gph
>
> 151 kts gs (headwind)
>
>
>
> Randy N610RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Off Field Landing |
When I test flew the 10 on April 21st and ordered my kit the guys at Van's
had just heard about it. Whoever's plane it was called to order a new gear
leg. Apparently that was the only part "tweaked" in the incident. I think
they said it was one that was built by a guy in California and then sold?
Tough to say if I have the story right cause I was still grinning from ear
to ear after the "launch" off the runway in 410RV.
Ben Westfall
#40579 VS ready for rivets.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 6:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Off Field Landing
Does anyone have information about an off field landing of an RV-10 in the
west about 2 weeks ago? I heard from a local pilot that a -10 that had
recently visited SBP (San Luis Obispo) then later in the week made a forced
landing due to engine failure. The local pilot had strong feelings that the
failure was related to fuel vapor lock.
I am sorry for the sketchy information but it would be of benefit to learn
the particulars.
Robin
RV-6A 300 hours
RV-10 Tail Feathers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
Kit 40415 came with the teardrop shape already in it. The plans still
showed the rectangle, but the teardrop shape was there. We had to cut the
teardrop in the doubler, but it was already in the spar.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:46 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
The next "challenge" you will find is when aileron
pushrods get installed onto the wing. I suspect that
everyone without a teardrop shaped aperture on the
rear spar will be doing some grinding soon... The
point of the "drop" goes a little into the hinge
itself. You can mount it up and see the clearance
issue right away with the retangular hole that came
stock from Van's. Randy had to widen. I will on kit
40150. Factory plane also has this cut out to a tear
drop shape to prevent rubbing/binding. I snapped a pic
of this awhile ago on the factory plane.
Not sure why this is not a revision from Van's.
Perhaps it has changed on kits beyond mine? I pointed
it out here about 2-3 months ago when I was worried
about the range of travel for autopilots and worked
with Randy to get the numbers for his.
Make sure you have full range of travel without any
rubbing or binding. To check full range to need wings
linked or measure angles. There is only one hard stop
for travel per wing (together they are full stops)
Eric
--- Rick wrote:
---------------------------------
I love when you get to the next step the day before
me!!! :) My 1064 rods are 13-1/8" if I went off the
plans I would have had to cut them to 12-5/8" and use
bushings. Thanks to your post...I don't have to make
the bushings or cut the rods!!!! Thanks Mate!!! This
time you saved me!!
One more Shrimp on the Barbie I owe ya!!
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/Finishing
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Performance numbers at highter alt. |
Up 3 degrees from even with the wing cord is the cruise setting. We also
use this for climb so as not to forget to put it up, although they recommend
flat for climb.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 12:21 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter alt.
I thought at one point the RV-10 was going to have a
negative flap position for better cruise speeds. Does
anyone recall this as well? is full up zero or
slightly negative?
Eric
--- Randy DeBauw wrote:
> The 198 mph number on my plane was before I found
> the rigging problem.
> After running the numbers Ken Kruger recommended
> that I check the
> rigging. On the way home from Oshkosh I found that
> the Ailerons were
> 3/8" of an inch down from the flaps. I must not of
> had the flaps all of
> the way up when I set the Ailerons to match. I have
> not rerun the
> flight test to get a more accurate number. Randy
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Verizon
> Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 11:17 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Performance numbers at
> highter alt.
>
>
>
> Randy;
>
> I saw this report about props somewhere in my
> researching the RV-10 to
> death. Seeing your plane was compared to Vic
> Syracuse and the company
> plane, wondering if you could expand on this report,
> how valid is it?
>
> Didn't see anything in the archives that covered if
> it did, please let
> me know where to look as I find the 11mph loss of
> the MT prop on Vic's
> plane compared to the 2 blade rather interesting.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Randy DeBauw <mailto:Randy(at)abros.com>
>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 10:35 AM
>
> Subject: RV10-List: Performance numbers at highter
> alt.
>
>
>
> 10.500 alt
>
> 20.6 mp
>
> 2300 rpm
>
> 12.4 gph
>
> 136 ind
>
> 162 adj
>
> 159 gs
>
>
>
> 10,520 alt.
>
> 11,390 density alt Dynon
>
> 136kts ind
>
> 160 kts adj.
>
> 155 kts gs.
>
> 12.2 gph
>
> 62% power
>
>
>
> 13,500
>
> 13,610 adj dynon
>
> 11.3 gph
>
> 18.3 mp
>
> 2300 rpm
>
> 130 kts ind.
>
> 162 kts adj
>
> 12 gph
>
> 151 kts gs (headwind)
>
>
>
> Randy N610RV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
Kit 40384 (With Wing Main spar assemblies S/N 350) also had the teardrop
in the rear spars, but not on the plans.
-Jim 40384
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
>Kit 40415 came with the teardrop shape already in it. The plans still
>showed the rectangle, but the teardrop shape was there. We had to cut the
>teardrop in the doubler, but it was already in the spar.
>
>Jesse Saint
>I-TEC, Inc.
>jesse(at)itecusa.org
>www.itecusa.org
>352-465-4545
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Panning
>Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 11:46 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
>
>
>The next "challenge" you will find is when aileron
>pushrods get installed onto the wing. I suspect that
>everyone without a teardrop shaped aperture on the
>rear spar will be doing some grinding soon... The
>point of the "drop" goes a little into the hinge
>itself. You can mount it up and see the clearance
>issue right away with the retangular hole that came
>stock from Van's. Randy had to widen. I will on kit
>40150. Factory plane also has this cut out to a tear
>drop shape to prevent rubbing/binding. I snapped a pic
>of this awhile ago on the factory plane.
>
>Not sure why this is not a revision from Van's.
>Perhaps it has changed on kits beyond mine? I pointed
>it out here about 2-3 months ago when I was worried
>about the range of travel for autopilots and worked
>with Randy to get the numbers for his.
>
>Make sure you have full range of travel without any
>rubbing or binding. To check full range to need wings
>linked or measure angles. There is only one hard stop
>for travel per wing (together they are full stops)
>
>Eric
>
>
>--- Rick wrote:
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>I love when you get to the next step the day before
>me!!! :) My 1064 rods are 13-1/8" if I went off the
>plans I would have had to cut them to 12-5/8" and use
>bushings. Thanks to your post...I don't have to make
>the bushings or cut the rods!!!! Thanks Mate!!! This
>time you saved me!!
>
>One more Shrimp on the Barbie I owe ya!!
>
>Rick S.
>40185
>Fuse/Finishing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
Does anyone have photos of there modifications?
Thanks,
Jay
The next "challenge" you will find is when aileron
pushrods get installed onto the wing. I suspect that
everyone without a teardrop shaped aperture on the
rear spar will be doing some grinding soon... The
point of the "drop" goes a little into the hinge
itself. You can mount it up and see the clearance
issue right away with the retangular hole that came
stock from Van's. Randy had to widen. I will on kit
40150. Factory plane also has this cut out to a tear
drop shape to prevent rubbing/binding. I snapped a pic
of this awhile ago on the factory plane.
Not sure why this is not a revision from Van's.
Perhaps it has changed on kits beyond mine? I pointed
it out here about 2-3 months ago when I was worried
about the range of travel for autopilots and worked
with Randy to get the numbers for his.
Make sure you have full range of travel without any
rubbing or binding. To check full range to need wings
linked or measure angles. There is only one hard stop
for travel per wing (together they are full stops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Wavier and Release of Liability Agreement |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
You know you're building a cruising pleasure craft when you're ordering
seat heaters for your 10 (or you have an always freezing significant
other in the copilot seat). I feel a bit ridiculous going for it, but
since I am, I'll just put it out there. On the VAF website, someone had
listed that there's a VAF discount on seat heaters that makes them a
pretty excellent deal. I ordered the 2 seat version, and it came up to
around $160. anyway, here's the link at VAF - check it out...
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t6871
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
wings/fuse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies |
Mine came as teardrop shape but I ordered my wings about a year ago, so I
think it depends on when you ordered your wings not what kit number you
have.
-Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Panning" <ericmpmail-rv10(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 12:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
>
> The next "challenge" you will find is when aileron
> pushrods get installed onto the wing. I suspect that
> everyone without a teardrop shaped aperture on the
> rear spar will be doing some grinding soon... The
> point of the "drop" goes a little into the hinge
> itself. You can mount it up and see the clearance
> issue right away with the retangular hole that came
> stock from Van's. Randy had to widen. I will on kit
> 40150. Factory plane also has this cut out to a tear
> drop shape to prevent rubbing/binding. I snapped a pic
> of this awhile ago on the factory plane.
>
> Not sure why this is not a revision from Van's.
> Perhaps it has changed on kits beyond mine? I pointed
> it out here about 2-3 months ago when I was worried
> about the range of travel for autopilots and worked
> with Randy to get the numbers for his.
>
> Make sure you have full range of travel without any
> rubbing or binding. To check full range to need wings
> linked or measure angles. There is only one hard stop
> for travel per wing (together they are full stops)
>
> Eric
>
>
> --- Rick wrote:
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
> I love when you get to the next step the day before
> me!!! :) My 1064 rods are 13-1/8" if I went off the
> plans I would have had to cut them to 12-5/8" and use
> bushings. Thanks to your post...I don't have to make
> the bushings or cut the rods!!!! Thanks Mate!!! This
> time you saved me!!
>
> One more Shrimp on the Barbie I owe ya!!
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> Fuse/Finishing
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Field LandingOff Field Landing |
I for one have not flown in a 10. Alex De Dominicis and Rus Daves have
told me there going to fly over and give me a ride though.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose wheel stem clearance |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I've pretty well done with my RV-10 and I still have parts
left I haven't used. I have marked off each paragraph as I completed it
and then each page once I complete everything on it. I have not done
the wheel pants or gearleg fairing and intersect fairing yet, but I have
quantity 4 -> 3/8" nutplates that I haven't used yet and don't see
where they would be used on the wheel pants or gearleg fairing etc.
Does anyone have any idea where they would be used?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (W & B this weekend)
N519RV
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Anyone have a recommendation for a book on "How to paint an airplane?"
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel stem clearance
I've pretty well done with my RV-10 and I still have parts
left I haven't used. I have marked off each paragraph as I completed it
and then each page once I complete everything on it. I have not done
the wheel pants or gearleg fairing and intersect fairing yet, but I have
quantity 4 -> 3/8" nutplates that I haven't used yet and don't see
where they would be used on the wheel pants or gearleg fairing etc.
Does anyone have any idea where they would be used?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (W & B this weekend)
N519RV
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
I got the abbreviated version. Call local RV builders, get the name of the
person that painted their airplane. I am going with a local auto body shop
who has painted several RV's. I will have the first components to his shop
by the end of the month. Maybe I am just to chicken to do it myself, my
priming looks bad enough.
Rene' Felker
40322
Fuselage, bottom wing skins, finish
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 8:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Anyone have a recommendation for a book on "How to paint an airplane?"
TDT
40025
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel stem clearance
I've pretty well done with my RV-10 and I still have parts left
I haven't used. I have marked off each paragraph as I completed it and then
each page once I complete everything on it. I have not done the wheel pants
or gearleg fairing and intersect fairing yet, but I have quantity 4 -> 3/8"
nutplates that I haven't used yet and don't see where they would be used on
the wheel pants or gearleg fairing etc. Does anyone have any idea where
they would be used?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (W & B this weekend)
N519RV
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal Reid" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
Assuming you're a EAA member there are numerous articles from Tony
Bengilis and Ron Alexander on this topic to get you started.
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/painting/articles.html
If the link doesn't work (should ask for you to log in than take you to
the articles)
it's under
Homebuilts/building/painting
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Dawson-Townsend
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Paint
Anyone have a recommendation for a book on "How to paint an airplane?"
TDT
40025
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 9:59 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel stem clearance
I've pretty well done with my RV-10 and I still have parts
left I haven't used. I have marked off each paragraph as I completed it
and then each page once I complete everything on it. I have not done
the wheel pants or gearleg fairing and intersect fairing yet, but I have
quantity 4 -> 3/8" nutplates that I haven't used yet and don't see
where they would be used on the wheel pants or gearleg fairing etc.
Does anyone have any idea where they would be used?
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (W & B this weekend)
N519RV
--
5/5/2006
--
5/5/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Looking for suggestions re: rear seat belts and the need to attach the
crotch strap lugs when building the fuse. Are you using belt systems
that require the crotch strap or is it just going to be in the way.
There was a little discussion about this a while back but I'm interested
in opinions now that more -10s are flying.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 ( fuse. guess which part )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
After a bit of thought and info, I've left my crotchstrap brackets off.
I've heard about people either removing them, not installing them, or
scraping their knees on them.
cj
#40410
wings/fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Hasbrouck
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 10:54 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat belts
Looking for suggestions re: rear seat belts and the need to attach the
crotch strap lugs when building the fuse. Are you using belt systems
that require the crotch strap or is it just going to be in the way.
There was a little discussion about this a while back but I'm interested
in opinions now that more -10s are flying.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 ( fuse. guess which part )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
Time to spend some BIG bucks.
Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential between
the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus Mattitucks TMXIO540
at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession (Electronic Systems) and
this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to me. I am totally ignorant on
all engine related issues, so be gentle . . .
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
Van=92s is a certified version of the IO-540. Mattituck is Lycoming=92s
experimental version. I don=92t know on the Aerosport, but I assume
they are
also with the experimental. Don=92t know the reason for the $8K
difference
between Mattituck and Aerosport. I know BPA costs more than Mattituck,
and
you get more services for the price, which Allen would be happy to
explain
if you contact him. I don=92t know almost anything about Aerosport.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 6:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine prices
G'day all,
Time to spend some BIG bucks.
Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential between
the
Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus Mattitucks TMXIO540 at
$34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession (Electronic Systems) and this
'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to me. I am totally ignorant on all
engine related issues, so be gentle . . .
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the engine
builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to update
their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> Time to spend some BIG bucks.
>
> Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle
> . . .
>
> thanks in advance,
> Ron
> #187
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines, yet
Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
'bucks'??
The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw in
the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
expensive proposition.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the engine
builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to update
their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> Time to spend some BIG bucks.
>
> Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle
> . . .
>
> thanks in advance,
> Ron
> #187
>
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Engine pricesI could be wrong and have not checked in a while but I
believe Van's engines are not "certified"ether at least in the sense you
could not put one on a certified airplane.
The primary difference in Van's engines and the Lycoming kit engines
being built by the 5 authorized shops, one of which is Aerosport is that
Van's is built by the factory and the others are assembled at the
authorized assemble shops. Only the 5 designated shops can do this, not
a private party or another shop.
I paid $31,500 base price for the 540 plus a few moods. The price on
the kit engines did go up substantially several weeks ago.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
Van=92s is a certified version of the IO-540. Mattituck is
Lycoming=92s experimental version. I don=92t know on the Aerosport, but
I assume they are also with the experimental. Don=92t know the reason
for the $8K difference between Mattituck and Aerosport. I know BPA
costs more than Mattituck, and you get more services for the price,
which Allen would be happy to explain if you contact him. I don=92t
know almost anything about Aerosport.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 6:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Engine prices
G'day all,
Time to spend some BIG bucks.
Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus Mattitucks
TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession (Electronic
Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to me. I am
totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle . . .
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187
--
5/10/2006
--
5/10/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Engine pricesThe Lycomings as delivered by Van's could be put directly
on any certified aircraft that has that engine on the type certificate.
example is the Piper Comanche 260.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Sipp
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
I could be wrong and have not checked in a while but I believe Van's
engines are not "certified"ether at least in the sense you could not put
one on a certified airplane.
The primary difference in Van's engines and the Lycoming kit engines
being built by the 5 authorized shops, one of which is Aerosport is that
Van's is built by the factory and the others are assembled at the
authorized assemble shops. Only the 5 designated shops can do this, not
a private party or another shop.
I paid $31,500 base price for the 540 plus a few moods. The price on
the kit engines did go up substantially several weeks ago.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
Van=92s is a certified version of the IO-540. Mattituck is
Lycoming=92s experimental version. I don=92t know on the Aerosport, but
I assume they are also with the experimental. Don=92t know the reason
for the $8K difference between Mattituck and Aerosport. I know BPA
costs more than Mattituck, and you get more services for the price,
which Allen would be happy to explain if you contact him. I don=92t
know almost anything about Aerosport.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 6:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Engine prices
G'day all,
Time to spend some BIG bucks.
Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus Mattitucks
TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession (Electronic
Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to me. I am
totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle . . .
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187
--
5/10/2006
--
5/10/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | QB bagage door seal angle |
RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod AssembliesCould people have a look at
there F10102b bagage door seal angles please my QB is riveted outboard
of the F- 1046 mid fuse longeron instead of 1/16 inboard to line up with
the f-10102a????? Am I missing something?
Also found the F-10102a is to long so will not alow mating with tailcone
as it hits the tailcone longeron!!
I can disasemble both and fix however thought I might check if I am
missing something
regards Chris 40388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Let's not get that started again! A certified engine is a certified
engine. The engine doesn't know what kind of plane it's in, and doesn't
care. You could have a certified factory engine that was installed on a
swamp boat and it's still a certified engine, as long as no one has
changed its parts. Engines and props are certified on their own in
their own right, and then also certified as a combination for a
particular aircraft model. But the base certification of an engine is
only dependent on the engine itself.
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 8:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
I purchased a New engine from Aerosport, which uses, per my
understanding, new certified parts from Lycoming. I was also told that
if I buy a certified engine from Van's that once I mount it on an
experimental plane it will no longer be considered certified. Don't know
for a fact that is true but that's what I was told.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Van's is only authorized to sell as many engines as he has sold kits.
The engines are certified. However, in order to pull them from an
experimental and put it into a certified plane, one of two things would
have to be done. 1) The engine would have to be stock configuration,
absolutely no modifications, experimental processes or components (such
as experimental ignition systems, Precision Silverhawk of AFP fuel
system) and would have to be maintained as a certified engine (i.e.
maintenance by a licensed A&P, all SBs and ADs in compliance) or 2)
Overhauled before installation by a certified repair station to type
certificate limits.
Rhonda
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
The Lycomings as delivered by Van's could be put directly on any
certified aircraft that has that engine on the type certificate. example
is the Piper Comanche 260.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Sipp
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
I could be wrong and have not checked in a while but I believe
Van's engines are not "certified"ether at least in the sense you could
not put one on a certified airplane.
The primary difference in Van's engines and the Lycoming kit
engines being built by the 5 authorized shops, one of which is Aerosport
is that Van's is built by the factory and the others are assembled at
the authorized assemble shops. Only the 5 designated shops can do this,
not a private party or another shop.
I paid $31,500 base price for the 540 plus a few moods. The
price on the kit engines did go up substantially several weeks ago.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
Van's is a certified version of the IO-540. Mattituck
is Lycoming's experimental version. I don't know on the Aerosport, but
I assume they are also with the experimental. Don't know the reason for
the $8K difference between Mattituck and Aerosport. I know BPA costs
more than Mattituck, and you get more services for the price, which
Allen would be happy to explain if you contact him. I don't know almost
anything about Aerosport.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 6:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Engine prices
G'day all,
Time to spend some BIG bucks.
Can anyone please explain why there is such a price
differential between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K,
versus Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
(Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to me.
I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle . . .
thanks in advance,
Ron
#187
--
Date: 5/10/2006
--
Date: 5/10/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Ron:
Let me clarify, the ceramic coated exhaust is not required with the BPE
IO-540-X, it is merely an option. The ceramic coating is designed to
keep radiant heat out of the cowl (there has been significant discussion
of this issue on the lists.) We like the Forsling exhaust, because we
have tested it on our dyno and found that it runs nice and gives a small
hp boost on the engine we ran (a new IO-540-X with 9.5:1 compression and
Barrett's Cold Air Induction.) You can use any exhaust you choose. You
would only need the modified cowl if you decided to run our Cold Air
Induction, which is a performance upgrade. It is my understanding that
the modified cowl is scheduled to be priced very similarly to Van's
standard cowl. The IO-540 without Cold Air does not require any
modifications. Hope this helps clarify.
Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
Tulsa, OK 74115
(918) 835-1089 phone
(918) 835-1745 fax
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
<http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines, yet
Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
'bucks'??
The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw in
the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
expensive proposition.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the engine
builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to update
their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> Time to spend some BIG bucks.
>
> Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle
> . . .
>
> thanks in advance,
> Ron
> #187
>
browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV10-List
Wiki!
HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
support!
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Old Planes at Museum near Grand Canyon |
Tim, you might want to stop here for a break when you come west. Not sure
where it is?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Off Topic: Old Planes at Museum near Grand Canyon |
Tim, you might want to stop here for a break when you come west. Not sure
where it is?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffery J. Morgan" <jmorgan(at)compnetconcepts.com> |
I think that it just representative of the FAA under there current admin
and structure. This is one of the best things that have come along
since GPS, as far as I can see. There situational awareness is huge and
it is disappointing that the project has been put on hold, for what
appears very little reason.
Hopefully reason will step in and maybe AOPA and push a bit hard outside
the FAA to push this safety info back in.
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Clark" <jclarkmail(at)gmail.com> |
Hmmmm.
I read the article and it ***APPEARS*** to me that they are saying " ...
hold on a second, we have some operational issues with how this integrates
with the controllers activities so we are going to tak a month or two to ge=
t
it all sorted out and back online ..".
**IF** this is the case, then it may very well be a **GOOD THING** that the=
y
are making sure it is all sorted out before a big rollout. Otherwise to fix
something later would be REALLY expensive **and** inconvenient.
Let's give the the chance to get it right before we say they have "pulled
the plug".
My comments are not directed at anyone in particular ... just an alternate
view.
James
On 5/11/06, Jeffery J. Morgan wrote:
>
> jmorgan(at)compnetconcepts.com>
>
>
> I think that it just representative of the FAA under there current admin
> and structure. This is one of the best things that have come along
> since GPS, as far as I can see. There situational awareness is huge and
> it is disappointing that the project has been put on hold, for what
> appears very little reason.
>
> Hopefully reason will step in and maybe AOPA and push a bit hard outside
> the FAA to push this safety info back in.
>
> Jeff
>
>
=
=
=
=
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james(at)nextupventures.com .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Dorsey <lnc2bldr(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic: Old Planes at Museum near Grand Canyon |
http://www.planesoffame.org/aircraft.php?site=Valle
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Jessen <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
>Sent: May 11, 2006 8:03 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Off Topic: Old Planes at Museum near Grand Canyon
>
>Tim, you might want to stop here for a break when you come west. Not sure
>where it is?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | seanblair(at)adelphia.net |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
Hey everyone,
I am looking at the Infinity Aerospace Grips and they seem to be what I want.
It looks like several builders have installed these as well. Could you flying
users of this equipment share your impressions and configurations of the buttons/switches?
Also, is there anything you would like to change about the configuration you chose?
Is it difficult to correct this after the installation?
Does the specific right or left hand molding bother you? Would you prefer having
a "neutral" grip?
Thanks!
Sean B.
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LarryRosen(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: QB bagage door seal angle |
I had the same problem with the angle on the fuselage being to long. You can see photos here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/TailconeAttach/index.html>. I had to remove rivits from the QB fuselage to trim the angle to fit.
Larry Rosen
#356
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
> RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod AssembliesCould people have a look at there
> F10102b bagage door seal angles please my QB is riveted outboard of the F- 1046
> mid fuse longeron instead of 1/16 inboard to line up with the f-10102a????? Am
I
> missing something?
>
> Also found the F-10102a is to long so will not alow mating with tailcone as it
> hits the tailcone longeron!!
>
>
> I can disasemble both and fix however thought I might check if I am missing
> something
>
> regards Chris 40388
>
>
From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: RV10-List: QB bagage door seal angle
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 10:39:47 +0000
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_13484_1147367577_1
RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod Assemblies
charsetiso-8859-1">
Could people have a look at there
F10102b bagage
door seal angles please my QB is riveted outboard of the F- 1046 mid
fuse
longeron instead of 1/16 inboard to line up with the f-10102a????? Am I
missing
something?
Also found the F-10102a is to long so
will not alow
mating with tailcone as it hits the tailcone longeron!!
I can disasemble both and fix however
thought I
might check if I am missing something
regards Chris 40388
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_13484_1147367577_1--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
We installed one in N256H and love it. In N415EC we are installing right
and left units. We have the following layout:
Left thumb - rudder trim
Coolie hat - aileron and elevator trim
Right thumb - flaps (momentary down - non-momentary up)
Trigger - PTT of course
Side thumb - Auto Pilot Control Wheel Steering
Pinky - flight timer on first, probably overhead LED panel lights on N415EC
We have the boost pump switch between the throttle and prop knobs, so
without moving your hands you have almost all of the important controls if
something happens. One option for the pinky is a starter solenoid button
so you could restart without moving your hands, especially with the boost
pump next to the throttle.
Hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I am looking at the Infinity Aerospace Grips and they seem to be what I
> want. It looks like several builders have installed these as well. Could
> you flying users of this equipment share your impressions and
> configurations of the buttons/switches?
>
> Also, is there anything you would like to change about the configuration
> you chose? Is it difficult to correct this after the installation?
>
> Does the specific right or left hand molding bother you? Would you prefer
> having a "neutral" grip?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sean B.
> #40225
>
>
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Certification |
In a message dated 5/11/2006 8:07:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
weeav8ter(at)grandecom.net writes:
I was also told that if I buy a certified engine from Van's that once I mount
it on an experimental plane it will no longer be considered certified
If your engine is a certifited engine with a log book, and all the
entries are by an A&P (P), and meet the required specs, then it remains a certified
engine, and can be sold as such and installed on any vertified plane that
specifies that engine.
If you choose to work on your certified engine yourself, like replacing a
jug, or doing the annual, and never have it signed off, it is NO longer a
certified engine. The value will go down. That is only an issue if you want to
sell it to someone for a certified use. So get the appropriate sign offs in a
log book, or dont waste the extra $$$ on a certifeid engine, unless it gives
you peace of mind. Kind of like buying TSO's instruments for an experimental,
they just cost more (maybe better or maybe just the right paper work).
Also, if you got your Airworthiness Certificate with a certified engine,
and then work on it yourself, verify with your FSDO that you dont need to fly
off more time, etc.... The danger comes with insurance.... if you change
something vs what you told them or the category of the engine (from certified to
experimental), they will then attempt to deny payment of any claim, based on
false info, even if it doesnt relate to the claim.
All that said, i want an engine that is zero timed, and i plan to do the
majority of the work myself, that is the whole idea of having an experimental.
I already own a certified plane that limits severely any changes i want to
make and costs more to operate.
Steve
Stephen G. Blank,DDS
RV-10 #40499 Finishing the HS
Cessna 170b Flyer
Port St Lucie, FL
772-475-5556 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
I'd also like to hear from those who've chosen to use some type of wooden
gripe, if anyone has. I'm interested in something simple, hardwood, but
with enough of a "head" to hold a hat switch, and maybe 1 or 2 other
buttons.
John J.
328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
seanblair(at)adelphia.net
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip
Hey everyone,
I am looking at the Infinity Aerospace Grips and they seem to be what I
want. It looks like several builders have installed these as well. Could
you flying users of this equipment share your impressions and configurations
of the buttons/switches?
Also, is there anything you would like to change about the configuration you
chose? Is it difficult to correct this after the installation?
Does the specific right or left hand molding bother you? Would you prefer
having a "neutral" grip?
Thanks!
Sean B.
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB bagage door seal angle |
I helps a QB builder last week attach his tailcone, and he also had the
same issue. Drilled out the rivets attaching the angle and shortened it
and reriveted.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
LarryRosen(at)comcast.net wrote:
>I had the same problem with the angle on the fuselage being to long. You can see photos here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Fuselage/TailconeAttach/index.html>. I had to remove rivits from the QB fuselage to trim the angle to fit.
>
>Larry Rosen
>#356
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
>From: "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
>
>
>>RE: RV10-List: Aileron Pushrod AssembliesCould people have a look at there
>>F10102b bagage door seal angles please my QB is riveted outboard of the F- 1046
>>mid fuse longeron instead of 1/16 inboard to line up with the f-10102a????? Am
I
>>missing something?
>>
>>Also found the F-10102a is to long so will not alow mating with tailcone as it
>>hits the tailcone longeron!!
>>
>>
>>I can disasemble both and fix however thought I might check if I am missing
>>something
>>
>>regards Chris 40388
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> Subject:
> RV10-List: QB bagage door seal angle
> From:
> "Chris , Susie Darcy"
> Date:
> To:
>
>
> To:
>
>
>
> Could people have a look at there F10102b bagage door seal angles
> please my QB is riveted outboard of the F- 1046 mid fuse longeron
> instead of 1/16 inboard to line up with the f-10102a????? Am I missing
> something?
>
> Also found the F-10102a is to long so will not alow mating with
> tailcone as it hits the tailcone longeron!!
>
>
> I can disasemble both and fix however thought I might check if I am
> missing something
>
> regards Chris 40388
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris , Susie Darcy" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: QB bagage door seal angle |
>From Vans
Unfortunately, you have one of the QB fuselages that the
Philippines messed up. Your only option is to remove the parts
that are not assembled according to instructions and fix them. We
have since gotten them to build the baggage door area correctly,
but that doesn't help you. We apologize for their oversight and the
extra work that it has caused you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Sparling" <jhs_61(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Headliner Fabric |
I have been looking at the photographs of John Stewarts RV-10 and would
like to use the headliner fabric he used. Does anyone know where he got it?
His e-mail address? Colors? How to order, etc?
Thanks,
Jack Sparling
#40487
Starting canopy installation
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
I mounted mine on the bottom section of the panel left side for pilot
and co-pilot and right side for rear passengers.
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Standley
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: tunnel heat
How about a valve at the intake? Related question...where are
builders mounting the "Knob" end of the heater cables so they are
accessable but non-interferring in the cabin?
Roger Standley
40291 - panel / fuselage
Do not acrchive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Field Landing |
Just got home from a week long trip for work. Wasn't me, although I
haven't been to my hangar to see if my airplane is still there!! Don't
think it would have been Al Cook (my airport) as I don't think his
fly-off hours are done yet. My last name is actually "Chamberlain" for
who ever cares. Mark (N104ML)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
Cc: seanblair(at)adelphia.net
I have the Infinity grip on my RV-7A and like it a lot, though I had to revise
the Coolie hat wiring. Originally had the fore and aft Coolie hat control pitch
trim, and moving it to the left swapped frequencies on the #1 Comm, while moving
it right swapped frequencies on the #2 Comm. Bad idea -- found I was inadvertently
changing frequencies whenever I changed the pitch trim.
I now have it set up with:
Top left = fuel boost pump
Coolie hat fore/aft = pitch trim. Don't have electric aileron trim so left/right
on Coolie hat doesn't do anything currently.
Top right = flaps. Here the folks at Infinity recommended that down be momentary,
and up be a locking position. I have that, but often find when I shut the
plane down that the up flap motor is still running. On the -10 I am going to
put an Infinity in, but the flap switch will be momentary on in both directions.
Trigger = PTT, like everybody
Thumb button = transponder ident
Pinkie button = A/P disconnect.
It's a very comfortable grip -- in the -7A I have the resting position rotated
45 degrees, so my elbow sits on the elbow rest with my forearm angled about 45
degrees.
(see http://array.ucsd.edu/rv7a/2003-02-16_stickgrip.jpg )
I normally fly the plane with two fingers on the grip (thumb and index finger of
left hand). Only grap a handful of grip for takeoff and landing.
-Dan Masys
#40448 installing autopilot servos and wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
For the problem of a running flap motor I have put a running light next to
the flap switch (DPDT momentary down and switched up). light will indicate
that switch needs to be returned to neutral (center) position
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Cc:
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip
>
> I have the Infinity grip on my RV-7A and like it a lot, though I had to
> revise the Coolie hat wiring. Originally had the fore and aft Coolie hat
> control pitch trim, and moving it to the left swapped frequencies on the
> #1 Comm, while moving it right swapped frequencies on the #2 Comm. Bad
> idea -- found I was inadvertently changing frequencies whenever I changed
> the pitch trim.
>
> I now have it set up with:
>
> Top left = fuel boost pump
> Coolie hat fore/aft = pitch trim. Don't have electric aileron trim so
> left/right on Coolie hat doesn't do anything currently.
> Top right = flaps. Here the folks at Infinity recommended that down be
> momentary, and up be a locking position. I have that, but often find when
> I shut the plane down that the up flap motor is still running. On the -10
> I am going to put an Infinity in, but the flap switch will be momentary on
> in both directions.
>
> Trigger = PTT, like everybody
> Thumb button = transponder ident
> Pinkie button = A/P disconnect.
>
> It's a very comfortable grip -- in the -7A I have the resting position
> rotated 45 degrees, so my elbow sits on the elbow rest with my forearm
> angled about 45 degrees.
> (see http://array.ucsd.edu/rv7a/2003-02-16_stickgrip.jpg )
>
> I normally fly the plane with two fingers on the grip (thumb and index
> finger of left hand). Only grap a handful of grip for takeoff and
> landing.
>
> -Dan Masys
> #40448 installing autopilot servos and wiring
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
Jesse, can you tell me how you installed electric rudder trim. I'm assuming
it's electric if there is a switch on the stick for it. I have been messing
with a tab on my rudder and have finally got a fairly neutral force for
cruise, but the ball is out one way on climb out and out the other in higher
speed descents. Not a big deal, at some point you have to fly these things
like real airplanes, but I was considering building a new rudder and adding
a built in tab with a servo in the tail to drive it. Just curious what you
came up with. Mark.(N104ML)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Off Field Landing |
I heard through unnamed sources that it was an RV-10 involved in an off
field landing near Paso Robles, CA. No injuries (except to a squirrel
hole), some damage to wheel fairings and possibly a gear leg. Name of
pilot not known as they are not affiliated with any list or group.
Apparently, those involved in the investigation ( possibly Vans) are
aware that we all want info about the cause as soon as it is available.
At this point it sounds like it is engine related, not aircraft or
system specific. I'm sure those involved will share any information with
us should it be determined that the cause relates to the design or
construction of the 10 or is operating specific to the 10. Mark.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
We used AeroTrim on both N256H and now on N415EC. They really work well,
and can be installed after the plane is flying. The hardest part is getting
the wire there, but that isn't that bad at all. You just cut a hole in the
skin at the right place, either pop-rivet or nut-plate and screw the trim
servo in, then drill out a few rivets from the trailing edge and rivet the
hinge on. I don't have any pictures on me, sorry. Norm's number is
305-864-3336. We paid about $175, I think, but we bought more than one at a
time. His unit is STC'd for a bunch of planes, as I understand, so make
sure you let him know that you are experimental, and that you only want the
trim and the hinge, not the cheepo little toggle switch or the indicator.
If somebody wanted to go all-out, they could mount the trim under the skin
and then glass over it to make it a little more durable and a little more
flush-looking, but that would make it very hard to remove and service or
replace. We put in 6 #6 nutplates on N415EC (for both aileron and rudder
trims) and will be able to remove them without trouble.
We have over 200hours on N256H and wouldn't fly it without the trims. They
make it so easy to keep it flying clean, no matter how you decide to burn
your fuel, and keep the ball in the center. It's worth the money.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Chamberlain
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip
Jesse, can you tell me how you installed electric rudder trim. I'm assuming
it's electric if there is a switch on the stick for it. I have been messing
with a tab on my rudder and have finally got a fairly neutral force for
cruise, but the ball is out one way on climb out and out the other in higher
speed descents. Not a big deal, at some point you have to fly these things
like real airplanes, but I was considering building a new rudder and adding
a built in tab with a servo in the tail to drive it. Just curious what you
came up with. Mark.(N104ML)
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
I have the CH products gripes. The sales rep is an RV-6 driver. It has all the
same features as most, coolie hat, trigger, pinky and two thumb buttons. One nice
feature is you can set the grip to allow it to swivel so it lines up with
your hand as you bank and pitch. I'm not saying it's spins around freely and all
loose, but the machined stick insert has a machined grove that the set screw
rides in and the tension can be adjusted or locked fully down so there is no
movement. I haven't tried to play with it yet. I read about the feature on a
RV-7 site.
http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/fini
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I love these grips. I had them on my RV-9A on both sides as
well as my RV-10 (not flying yet). I have the left and right hand
version on each side. I mounted them at a 20 degree angle to the
centerline which is what I found to be the neutral position of my
forearm while my elbow rest on my lap. I even made my own circuit
boards that I put a DB15 connector on the wires from this grip and then
I have a db25 connector on the board that interfaces to everything else
in the plane. I have the hat switch run the ailron and elevator trims
via a onboard mosfet drivers. I have a flap toggle switch which is a
momentary on-off-on which the center is off. The other three location
have simple single pole single throw switches that I use for Audio Panel
Com Swap, Radio Act/Stby Swap, Transponder Ident, Auto Pilot disconnect.
This board I made can control three outputs for this gear as well as the
Ailron, Elavator and Flap motors. This is all solid state and no
relays. I then have another board on the co-pilot side that connects to
the pilot side with a 2 wire CAN bus. This is where any button on the
right stick can send commands to the left control to run the motors.
I've talked to the owner of Infinity Aerospace and he wants to
see what I have done and possibly sell them.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250 (First flight in 2 weeks.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
seanblair(at)adelphia.net
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 11:59 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip
Hey everyone,
I am looking at the Infinity Aerospace Grips and they seem to be what I
want. It looks like several builders have installed these as well.
Could you flying users of this equipment share your impressions and
configurations of the buttons/switches?
Also, is there anything you would like to change about the configuration
you chose? Is it difficult to correct this after the installation?
Does the specific right or left hand molding bother you? Would you
prefer having a "neutral" grip?
Thanks!
Sean B.
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Chamberlain" <10flyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
Thanks, I'll look into it! Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Infinity Aerospace Grip |
While were on the grip thing, How did you route your leads from the stick? Did
you drill the curved portion or route them on the outside of the stick. Did anyone
cut their sticks down to their most comfy position? I assume they will be
too long as is, I need to mount a seat to check my length.
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: QB baggage door seal angle |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
--- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its gear?
Jacks? straps? etc?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Who do you buy the modified cowl from? Jim
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/05/11 Thu AM 09:55:06 EDT
> To:
> Subject: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
> Ron:
>
>
>
> Let me clarify, the ceramic coated exhaust is not required with the BPE
> IO-540-X, it is merely an option. The ceramic coating is designed to
> keep radiant heat out of the cowl (there has been significant discussion
> of this issue on the lists.) We like the Forsling exhaust, because we
> have tested it on our dyno and found that it runs nice and gives a small
> hp boost on the engine we ran (a new IO-540-X with 9.5:1 compression and
> Barrett's Cold Air Induction.) You can use any exhaust you choose. You
> would only need the modified cowl if you decided to run our Cold Air
> Induction, which is a performance upgrade. It is my understanding that
> the modified cowl is scheduled to be priced very similarly to Van's
> standard cowl. The IO-540 without Cold Air does not require any
> modifications. Hope this helps clarify.
>
>
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>
> 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>
> Tulsa, OK 74115
>
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> (918) 835-1745 fax
>
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:11 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
> There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines, yet
> Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
> Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
> 'bucks'??
>
> The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw in
> the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
> expensive proposition.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
>
> Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
> are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the engine
> builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
> get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
> not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to update
> their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
> Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> > G'day all,
> >
> > Time to spend some BIG bucks.
> >
> > Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> > between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> > Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> > (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> > me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be gentle
> > . . .
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Ron
> > #187
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
> com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Wiki!
> HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
>
> support!
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
> tribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com> |
Sam James is designing the modified cowl, and the first production cowl
is scheduled to be on display at OSH.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gorejr(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
Who do you buy the modified cowl from? Jim
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/05/11 Thu AM 09:55:06 EDT
> To:
> Subject: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
> Ron:
>
>
>
> Let me clarify, the ceramic coated exhaust is not required with the
BPE
> IO-540-X, it is merely an option. The ceramic coating is designed to
> keep radiant heat out of the cowl (there has been significant
discussion
> of this issue on the lists.) We like the Forsling exhaust, because we
> have tested it on our dyno and found that it runs nice and gives a
small
> hp boost on the engine we ran (a new IO-540-X with 9.5:1 compression
and
> Barrett's Cold Air Induction.) You can use any exhaust you choose.
You
> would only need the modified cowl if you decided to run our Cold Air
> Induction, which is a performance upgrade. It is my understanding
that
> the modified cowl is scheduled to be priced very similarly to Van's
> standard cowl. The IO-540 without Cold Air does not require any
> modifications. Hope this helps clarify.
>
>
>
> Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
>
> Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
>
> 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
>
> Tulsa, OK 74115
>
> (918) 835-1089 phone
>
> (918) 835-1745 fax
>
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:11 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
> There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines,
yet
> Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
> Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
> 'bucks'??
>
> The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw
in
> the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
> expensive proposition.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
>
>
> Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
> are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the
engine
> builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
> get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
> not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to
update
> their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
> Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> McGANN, Ron wrote:
>
> > G'day all,
> >
> > Time to spend some BIG bucks.
> >
> > Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> > between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> > Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> > (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> > me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be
gentle
> > . . .
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Ron
> > #187
> >
>
>
>
>
> browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
>
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
> com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Wiki!
> HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
>
> support!
>
HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
> tribution
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Does the modified cowl have a larger lower opening for the cold induction? Thanks
Jim I think it needs to be 3 1/2 inch diameter.
>
> From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
> Date: 2006/05/12 Fri PM 04:22:31 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RE: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
> Sam James is designing the modified cowl, and the first production cowl
> is scheduled to be on display at OSH.
>
> Rhonda
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gorejr(at)bellsouth.net
> Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 3:13 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
> Who do you buy the modified cowl from? Jim
> >
> > From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
> > Date: 2006/05/11 Thu AM 09:55:06 EDT
> > To:
> > Subject: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >
> > Ron:
> >
> >
> >
> > Let me clarify, the ceramic coated exhaust is not required with the
> BPE
> > IO-540-X, it is merely an option. The ceramic coating is designed to
> > keep radiant heat out of the cowl (there has been significant
> discussion
> > of this issue on the lists.) We like the Forsling exhaust, because we
> > have tested it on our dyno and found that it runs nice and gives a
> small
> > hp boost on the engine we ran (a new IO-540-X with 9.5:1 compression
> and
> > Barrett's Cold Air Induction.) You can use any exhaust you choose.
> You
> > would only need the modified cowl if you decided to run our Cold Air
> > Induction, which is a performance upgrade. It is my understanding
> that
> > the modified cowl is scheduled to be priced very similarly to Van's
> > standard cowl. The IO-540 without Cold Air does not require any
> > modifications. Hope this helps clarify.
> >
> >
> >
> > Rhonda Barrett-Bewley
> >
> > Barrett Precision Engines, Inc.
> >
> > 2870-B N. Sheridan Rd.
> >
> > Tulsa, OK 74115
> >
> > (918) 835-1089 phone
> >
> > (918) 835-1745 fax
> >
> > www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> > <http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
> >
> > ________________________________
> >
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 7:11 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >
> >
> >
> > There's only ~$1K difference between the Vans and Aerosport engines,
> yet
> > Vans is certified. Why would anyone buy an experimental from Aero
> > Sport?? What are the extra 'bangs' that you get for your Aero Sport
> > 'bucks'??
> >
> > The high performance BPA engine looks like a great package, but throw
> in
> > the required ceramic exhaust and a non standard cowl and it becomes an
> > expensive proposition.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> > Sent: Thursday, 11 May 2006 9:25 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Van's price is for a certified Lycoming. the Aero Sport and Mattituck
> > are experimantal (i.e. the name plate on the engine is from the
> engine
> > builder vs Lycoming. They are built from kits that the engine builders
> > get from Lycoming which contain new parts. There was a price increase
> > not too long ago and it has taken some time for the builders to
> update
> > their web sites. I suspect that Mattitucks price is now closer to
> > Aerosport, BPS, G&N etc.
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406
> > Fuse
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> > McGANN, Ron wrote:
> >
> > > G'day all,
> > >
> > > Time to spend some BIG bucks.
> > >
> > > Can anyone please explain why there is such a price differential
> > > between the Vans and Aerosport Power IO540s at ~$42K, versus
> > > Mattitucks TMXIO540 at $34K? I am a 'queer trader' by profession
> > > (Electronic Systems) and this 'black hander' stuff is all voodoo to
> > > me. I am totally ignorant on all engine related issues, so be
> gentle
> > > . . .
> > >
> > > thanks in advance,
> > > Ron
> > > #187
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse Subscriptions page, Chat, FAQ,
> >
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.
> > com/Navigator?RV10-List
> >
> > Wiki!
> > HREF"http://wiki.matronics.com">http://wiki.matronics.com
> >
> > support!
> >
> HREF"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
> > tribution
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Jim, I just went through this as I've ordered The BPA IOP 540-X w/ 9:1
pistons, the CAS system, the John Forsling tuned Exhaust and the James
Cowl/Plemmum. According to Will James, The modified cowl will have a
different shaped opening similar to a 'smiley face' to accommodate the
forward facing Barrett Cold Air Induction system. They pointed me to the
eggenfellner website, and the posted pictures of their new cowl for
their H6 engine. here's the link
http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1866.JPG.
Will has been working with Jan & co developing the new cowl for their 6
cyl engine. He is currently working with an RV10 builder who is getting
close to flying and Allen Barrett (BPA) on the Cold air mod, as I
understand it they have already made at least one cowl that's intended
to be a throw away just for test fit purposes. the plan is to have it
all finalized by OSH and be ready for production cowls from final molds.
btw, the reports on the Forsling ceramic coated exhaust is that you can
hold you hand within 1/2 to 1 inch of the manifolds on a running engine
and not get burned. I'm hoping this will help with the reported tunnel
heating probs, that appear to have their root in the heat build up that
occurs in the Van's cowl. As I've recently learned, the openings in the
Van's cowl are soo large that more air bubbles back out of the cowl
around the prop than goes through the baffles and exits through the cowl
openings in the bottom. It all equals a BIG amount of drag. All of that
warm air bubbling around within the cowl can't be a good thing. The down
side to the Forsling exhaust is that if you live in a cold climate (I
don't, it was 103 here today), you will have a harder time pulling heat
off of the exhaust.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
I just went through that one last weekend - alone! Mine was on a pallet
with numerous sections of the packing foam (Vans supplied) between the
pallet and fuselage. I was able to lift the left side at enough angle to
slide the gear leg in (and out and back in after de-burring). Careful
not to roll over enough to wind up in the floor on the side :-). For the
right side - old fashion jacks and blocks - but that's a little scary
alone. I definitely recommend assistance. A lift to the ceiling would
have been way to easy.
Byron #40253 finishing kit/firewall forward.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: lifting
What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its gear?
Jacks? straps? etc?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Here's another pic link of the eggenfellner cowl:
http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1871.JPG
I also just remembered something additional that plays into this
discussion, that the James cowl requires a 14" prop spinner.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
How high do you lift it? I have a bigger stronger partner than myself
and a 2 ton hydraulic crane so it sounds like will not be a problem if I
get some rated straps and use the crane.
----- Original Message -----
From: Byron Gillespie
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: lifting
I just went through that one last weekend - alone! Mine was on a
pallet with numerous sections of the packing foam (Vans supplied)
between the pallet and fuselage. I was able to lift the left side at
enough angle to slide the gear leg in (and out and back in after
de-burring). Careful not to roll over enough to wind up in the floor on
the side J. For the right side - old fashion jacks and blocks - but
that's a little scary alone. I definitely recommend assistance. A lift
to the ceiling would have been way to easy.
Byron #40253 finishing kit/firewall forward.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 4:07 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: lifting
What methods have been used to lift the fuselage and get it on its
gear? Jacks? straps? etc?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Where could one purchase the eggenfellner cowl? Is this the cowl made by James?
Jim
>
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2006/05/12 Fri PM 10:54:51 EDT
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
> Here's another pic link of the eggenfellner cowl:
> http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1871.JPG
> I also just remembered something additional that plays into this
> discussion, that the James cowl requires a 14" prop spinner.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
The cowl is made by James, I met him at Sun-n-Fun, and he said the RV-10 the
cowl for the Eggenfellner is basically ready to go. I did not ask about a
IO-540 cowl.
Steve Mills
40486 finishing wings
----- Original Message -----
From: <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: Re: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
> Where could one purchase the eggenfellner cowl? Is this the cowl made by
James? Jim
> >
> > From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> > Date: 2006/05/12 Fri PM 10:54:51 EDT
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >
> >
> > Here's another pic link of the eggenfellner cowl:
> > http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1871.JPG
> > I also just remembered something additional that plays into this
> > discussion, that the James cowl requires a 14" prop spinner.
> >
> > Deems Davis # 406
> > Fuse
> > http://deemsrv10.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
I'm sorry I should have been more clear in my post. Will James is making
the cowl for the eggenfellner H6 engine installation, it is specifically
designed for that engine. The pictures shown are of an RV 6/7 I believe
I have no idea what Will is doing for that engine on RV-10's, I suspect
it would be an entirely different cowl and would NOT be the same as an
IO 540. I only mentioned it as a reference to an inquiry about
modifications to accomodate the forward facing Barrett Cold Air System.
The eggenfellner cowl is an EXAMPLE of what the Cold Air system cowl
will look like when complete for the RV-10.
The benefits to the James cowl/plenum are:
1. imporved cooling efficiency
2. reduced drag (their web site cites a 7-10 mph avg speed increase from
their cowl/pressure plenum installation. This appears to be
substantiated by builder results and air race results.)
The Cowl without the pressure plenum is only a partial solution. It's
the combination of the devices that produces the above results
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse
http://deemsrv10.com/
The cowl without
gorejr(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
>Where could one purchase the eggenfellner cowl? Is this the cowl made by James?
Jim
>
>
>>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
>>Date: 2006/05/12 Fri PM 10:54:51 EDT
>>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>>
>>
>>Here's another pic link of the eggenfellner cowl:
>>http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1871.JPG
>>I also just remembered something additional that plays into this
>>discussion, that the James cowl requires a 14" prop spinner.
>>
>>Deems Davis # 406
>>Fuse
>>http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine prices |
Thanks for your reply. Still a little confused. If one wanted to purchase a modified
cowl for a cold induction for the IO-540 for an RV-10 is there a source?
Thanks Jim
>
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2006/05/13 Sat AM 10:15:42 EDT
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
>
>
> I'm sorry I should have been more clear in my post. Will James is making
> the cowl for the eggenfellner H6 engine installation, it is specifically
> designed for that engine. The pictures shown are of an RV 6/7 I believe
> I have no idea what Will is doing for that engine on RV-10's, I suspect
> it would be an entirely different cowl and would NOT be the same as an
> IO 540. I only mentioned it as a reference to an inquiry about
> modifications to accomodate the forward facing Barrett Cold Air System.
> The eggenfellner cowl is an EXAMPLE of what the Cold Air system cowl
> will look like when complete for the RV-10.
>
> The benefits to the James cowl/plenum are:
>
> 1. imporved cooling efficiency
> 2. reduced drag (their web site cites a 7-10 mph avg speed increase from
> their cowl/pressure plenum installation. This appears to be
> substantiated by builder results and air race results.)
>
> The Cowl without the pressure plenum is only a partial solution. It's
> the combination of the devices that produces the above results
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> The cowl without
>
> gorejr(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> >
> >Where could one purchase the eggenfellner cowl? Is this the cowl made by James?
Jim
> >
> >
> >>From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> >>Date: 2006/05/12 Fri PM 10:54:51 EDT
> >>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: FW: RV10-List: Engine prices
> >>
> >>
> >>Here's another pic link of the eggenfellner cowl:
> >>http://eggenfellneraircraft.com/100_1871.JPG
> >>I also just remembered something additional that plays into this
> >>discussion, that the James cowl requires a 14" prop spinner.
> >>
> >>Deems Davis # 406
> >>Fuse
> >>http://deemsrv10.com/
> >>
> >>
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April 29, 2006 - May 13, 2006
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-bd