RV10-Archive.digest.vol-bl
August 15, 2006 - September 07, 2006
Subject: Re: RV10-List: AN Clocking (again)
Jessie
Where did you get the Fuel/Seal lube?
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 9:30:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jesse(at)itecusa.org writes:
will try to answer in a way that has been recommended and has
worked. When we first started, we would take the fittings to the torque
value, then clock them from there. Yes, this takes a TON of pressure
sometimes, which is not good. In fact, we had some leak when this
happened. It was recommended by a very experience A&P that we use some
kind of thread sealer, Fuel/Seal Lube works great, then just run them on
as tight as we can get them by hand, then clock them from there. We did
this on two oil cooler
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://www.matronics.com/cont
8/14/2006
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8/14/2006
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| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
I didn't see it in their catalogue, do you have a part number? I had used
some that I borrowed from an A&P to seal the fuel sender in another plane and
I
wanted to get some for myself.
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 10:33:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dlm46007(at)cox.net writes:
A lifetime supply is available in a can from Aircraft Spruce. One pound will
last you through all the aircraft you will ever build.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com> |
Aircraft Spruce part number 09-25200. Sealube. $20.80 for a 1 lb can,
which as someone said will be a lifetime supply. I used it liberally on
the last airplane I built and maybe used a couple of tablespoons.
Jack Phillips
#40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
NYTerminat(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel lube
I didn't see it in their catalogue, do you have a part number? I had
used some that I borrowed from an A&P to seal the fuel sender in another
plane and I wanted to get some for myself.
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 10:33:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dlm46007(at)cox.net writes:
A lifetime supply is available in a can from Aircraft Spruce.
One pound will last you through all the aircraft you will ever build.
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This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
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n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
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Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
check
http://aircraft-spruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php
----- Original Message -----
From: NYTerminat(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: fuel lube
I didn't see it in their catalogue, do you have a part number? I had
used some that I borrowed from an A&P to seal the fuel sender in another
plane and I wanted to get some for myself.
Bob
In a message dated 8/15/2006 10:33:15 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dlm46007(at)cox.net writes:
A lifetime supply is available in a can from Aircraft Spruce. One
pound will last you through all the aircraft you will ever build.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KiloPapa" <kilopapa(at)antelecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal. What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com"jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L Aune <lcaune(at)cablelan.net> |
Les
I am a builder from Kelowna working on the doors at present. I am an
AME-M and an AME-S teaching aircraft structures for BCIT. If you
ever get out this way I'll give you a mini start-up course which will
safely get you started on this great project. Drop by or call Len
250-766-5456.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door seal adhesive |
3M Super silicone sealant. NAPA and auto parts stores
carry it, or can order a caulking tube of it. From what
I can tell, it's almost or exactly like regualar GE clear
silicone sealant you could by at the hardware store.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
John Testement wrote:
> I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal.
> What are others having success with?
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
>
> --
> 8/15/2006
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal. What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com"jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
8/15/2006
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NYTerminat(at)aol.com |
Thanks Jack, the confusion is there are other products that sound like the
same thing such as EZ turn lubricant"EZ Turn is the functional equivalent of
fuel lube" P/N 09-00306
In a message dated 8/15/2006 1:12:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com writes:
Aircraft Spruce part number 09-25200. Sealube. $20.80 for a 1 lb can,
which as someone said will be a lifetime supply. I used it liberally on the last
airplane I built and maybe used a couple of tablespoons.
Jack Phillips
#40610
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door seal adhesive |
Just remember that silicone sticks to paint but paint will not adhere to
silicone.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal.
What are others having success with?
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
8/15/2006
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://www.matronics.com/cont
8/14/2006
--
8/14/2006
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting |
Dear Mark & all the RV-10 crowd:
I added the Y vent off the back baffle scat tube flange. I ran scat tube
from the straight exit of the Y vent down to the heat muff and then from the
heat muff to one of the heater vents. I aimed the open Y of the Y Vent
towards the firewall right above the heater boxes. On the left side forward
baffle scat tube flange I ran scat tube from it back to the other heat muff
and then from the heat muff to the other heater vent.
In case somebody hasn't read my other postings about the heater vent
corrective actions they were as follows:
I installed a gasket between the firewall and the heater vents. I installed
RTV around the heater vent opening and door (put wax paper between the RTV
and door) and using the door opening vent cables on the panel closed the
door openings on the heater vents fully closed. After setup of the RTV I
removed the wax paper which now allows the door to seal real good. I then
put RTV all around the outside of the heater boxes and the firewall.
I insulated the inside firewall with foil backed insulation and installed
foil backed insulation on the bottom of the tunnel floor, and 1/2"
soundproofing between the floor panels and the bottom skin.
To date the forward part of the tunnel gets warm but not to hot to lean my
bare leg up against the tunnel (no carpet or covering on either the floor of
the tunnel yet, just bare metal).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>
> Russ,
>
> Did you put a scat tube on the outlet side of the heat muff to dump the
> heat overbroad?
>
> Mark
>
>
>>From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
>>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>>Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 12:08:06 -0500
>>
>>I did one Y vent off the back baffle scat tube flange. I didn't run a
>>hose down to the heater boxes, only aimed the open Y of the Y Vent towards
>>the firewall right above the heater boxes.
>>
>>I am in Lubbock, Texas 3200 msl and daytime temps have been 95-100.
>>
>>Best regards,
>>
>>Russ Daves
>>N710RV Flying
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Rob Kermanj
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:40 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RE: 'Y' for SCAT ducting
>>
>>
>> Did you do this on both vents? What is the result and how hot is it
>> where you normally fly?
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spray ceramic heat barrier |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
Just thought I'd pass along a bit of info... I'm at the point in the
fuse that I'm trying to head off any heat issues (you all know what I
mean) and I ran across this stuff.
http://www.lizardskin.com
I just got off the phone with the guy, and it seems like this stuff will
be helpful. It's not cheap though...$189 a gallon. Heat rejection,
moderate fire protection, insulation. Sounds pretty good. Also,
according to the guy, the weight of the product after drying is 3lbs per
gallon. Pretty good. Also, he says that it will stick fine to epoxy
primer, and stays pliable, no cracking etc. I've ordered a gallon, and
I'm going to test it out a bit and see if it lives up to all the hype.
Oh - don't go ordering the sound control formula - I think the guy said
that stuff weighs somewhere around 13lbs per gallon!
cj
#40401
fuse
finished rolling my fuse skins!! Only had to reorder one :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Door seal adhesive |
I tried GE Silicon II and it did not stick. Also tried 3M super trim
adhesive, and Goop. Maybe I need to scuff the rubber some more.
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com"jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 3:01 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
Plain old Silicone is the only thing that we could get to work.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seal adhesive
I am not having much luck finding a good adhesive for the door seal. What
are others having success with?
John Testement
HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com"jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
--
8/15/2006
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
8/14/2006
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re: AN Clocking (again) |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks to all for the responses - particularly John for stirring the pot
on my behalf.
I spent a fair bit of time researching the matronics archives last night
and the very useful link that Rick provided. Clocking the fittings
while achieving an acceptable torque really does seem to be a bit of
black magic.
One of the more telling pieces of info came from Rick's link to
aeroquip:
"Q: How many times can I reuse my fittings and adapters?
A: Inspect sealing surfaces and threaded connections for signs of
damage. If they appear to be in good condition, they may be reused.
Tapered pipe thread connections are distorted each time they are
reinstalled. Often after 3 or 4 tightening sequences the threads are
stretched or distorted beyond practical reuse. "
If the NPT type threads are distorted after 3-4 tightening cycles, this
suggests to me that you really do need to tighten them a fair bit.
At this stage, I will 'wing it' - as tight as possible while achieving
the required clocking. I was going to use fuel lube, but based on list
feedback, I will give the teflon paste (locktite 565) a try.
cheers,
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spray ceramic heat barrier |
let us know when the day comes that you test this. Looks like a nice
solution.
Thx
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 3:45 PM
Subject: RV10-List: spray ceramic heat barrier
>
> Hey all -
>
> Just thought I'd pass along a bit of info... I'm at the point in the
> fuse that I'm trying to head off any heat issues (you all know what I
> mean) and I ran across this stuff.
>
> http://www.lizardskin.com
>
> I just got off the phone with the guy, and it seems like this stuff will
> be helpful. It's not cheap though...$189 a gallon. Heat rejection,
> moderate fire protection, insulation. Sounds pretty good. Also,
> according to the guy, the weight of the product after drying is 3lbs per
> gallon. Pretty good. Also, he says that it will stick fine to epoxy
> primer, and stays pliable, no cracking etc. I've ordered a gallon, and
> I'm going to test it out a bit and see if it lives up to all the hype.
>
> Oh - don't go ordering the sound control formula - I think the guy said
> that stuff weighs somewhere around 13lbs per gallon!
>
> cj
> #40401
> fuse
> finished rolling my fuse skins!! Only had to reorder one :)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV10Aviator" <mani.ravee(at)us.army.mil> |
Guys, its me, Mani. Lost my ID and had to make a new one. Oh well.
One six right is coming live to a selected cities around the place. In digital
Sony 4x projection. Tickets are available online at the link. Go to tours and
you can buy it online from there. Aviators need to see it. My whole family is
going.
http://www.onesixright.com/
Also enjoy the videos and reading about it.
Mani Ravee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55065#55065
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and
noticed a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and
flap torque tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block
interfaces, the total amount of friction may create significant startup
torque on the flap motor. I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon
based and therefore self lubricating, but is there a recommended way of
reducing the surface friction with the torques tubes? Is lightly
sanding or polishing the paint from the torque tubes or inside of the
bushing, or using an additional lubricant preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
They do go in pretty tight, but that doesn=92t seem to make any
difference on
the functionality of the flaps. I am sure, with the torque on the flap
motor, it is probably better to have them tight and add a little bit of
torque than to have them loose and add the possibility of
vibration/movement
in the system. I would think that the amount of torque in the plastic
blocks would be substantially less than the torque of dropping the flaps
from 0 to 15 or 15 to 30 degrees at 100kts/mph, whichever the max flap
speed
is. We haven=92t used any lubrication or modified the parts at all.
Anybody
else out there with different experiences?
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lubricating UHMW Blocks
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and
noticed
a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and flap torque
tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block interfaces, the total
amount of friction may create significant startup torque on the flap
motor.
I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon based and therefore self
lubricating, but is there a recommended way of reducing the surface
friction
with the torques tubes? Is lightly sanding or polishing the paint from
the
torque tubes or inside of the bushing, or using an additional lubricant
preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
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vig
ator?RV10-List
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8/14/2006
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8/14/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
Ron,
I opted for the light sanding and it seemed to help a lot.
Marcus
40286
First flight (attempt) this Saturday!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lubricating UHMW Blocks
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and noticed
a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and flap torque
tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block interfaces, the total
amount of friction may create significant startup torque on the flap motor.
I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon based and therefore self
lubricating, but is there a recommended way of reducing the surface friction
with the torques tubes? Is lightly sanding or polishing the paint from the
torque tubes or inside of the bushing, or using an additional lubricant
preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Lubricating UHMW Blocks |
Ron, I used a scotchbrite pad on the tube...checked the flap motor with a
12V supply..minimum friction.
John 40315
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Wednesday, 16 August 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lubricating UHMW Blocks
Question for today . . .
I was finishing off the control activation and flaps last night and noticed
a significant amount of friction between the UHMW blocks and flap torque
tubes. Given that there are four such tube/block interfaces, the total
amount of friction may create significant startup torque on the flap motor.
I understand that the UHMW blocks are teflon based and therefore self
lubricating, but is there a recommended way of reducing the surface friction
with the torques tubes? Is lightly sanding or polishing the paint from the
torque tubes or inside of the bushing, or using an additional lubricant
preferred??
thanks in advance (yet again)
Ron
#187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Ganster" <tganster(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | please remove me from the list |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
I am attatching a photo of even another option for vents. These vents are the
most highly styled available and provide more air movement than any of the others
that have been mentioned. They were displayed in the Flightline AC booth
as an upgrade option to our ac systems. They mount thru a skin (overhead or
panel) by drilling a 2.5" hole and are held in place by a threaded fitting that
can accept a 2.5" hose, or they are trimmed to allow for use in an overhead
panel. They fully close off, partially open, and fully open via a telescoping
mechanism and rotate 360' to be able to focus air movement. They are a machined
aluminum part. They sell for $125.00 each.
Flightline AC # is 541-330-5466
John S.
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Cleaveland Tool Sale |
I wanted to announce a rare sale that we are having at Cleaveland
Aircraft
Tool. We try and keep prices reasonable all the time rather than
running
specials, however our inventory level is just too high after the summer
show
season has come to an end. As a result we have decided to have an
"inventory reduction sale" or a give-away sale as I like to call it as
all
of the items are at, near, or below our cost.
Some of the items are:
Clekos (you will never see Wedgeloc brand clekos at this price)
3M wheels
Air Drills
Wire Twisters
Unibits and hole cutter sets
Dimple dies
Many others.
Check out the whole list at
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/specials.asp
be sure to click into the "special pricing" on each item to see the sale
price.
The items will drop off as inventory levels come down so act fast.
Retroactive discounts will not be given for previous orders.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: please remove me from the list- resolution |
Although we are always willing to help with the buildiong, this is one
you'll have to do for yourself.
****************************************
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The Subscribe/Unsubscribe web page is:
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----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Ganster
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 4:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: please remove me from the list
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
Looks like the vent from an old Camaro.
Your post got truncated at the most important part - the price! Don't
leave us in suspense!
TDT
40025
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John N.
Strain II
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
I am attatching a photo of even another option for vents. These
vents are the most highly styled available and provide more air movement
than any of the others that have been mentioned. They were displayed in
the Flightline AC booth as an upgrade option to our ac systems. They
mount thru a skin (overhead or panel) by drilling a 2.5" hole and are
held in place by a threaded fitting that can accept a 2.5" hose, or they
are trimmed to allow for use in an overhead panel. They fully close
off, partially open, and fully open via a telescoping mechanism and
rotate 360' to be able to focus air movement. They are a machined
aluminum part. They sell for
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance for first flight |
The only instance that comes to mind for " required " insurance would be
a lender requiring hull insurance if the plane was collateral for a
loan. Other than that, you're on your own. ( at least here in Ohio ).
The wisdom of "going naked" is different issue though.
John Hasbrouck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Overhead Console - Lighting |
For some others that are utilizing the Chevrolet overhead console, I
have found some decent LED lights that are a perfect retrofit. I wanted
to ditch the factory white ones so began playing around fabricating some
bulbs - they worked great but were time consuming to fabricate. I
checked at my favorite store and found some options to investigate. I
bought 4 Red LED bulbs for the map lights and a blue for the dome light.
I bought several others to try out but these are the best I found. All
look great. The seller on eBay that I used was "velocityled_1" there are
likely others but he was super fast and very professional to deal with.
They are set for 12V automotive application so are already set with
resistors and diode for current protection.
The power draw is 0.05A each - all 5 lights lit up .25A
Eyeball - "VELOCITY LEDS SUPER RED HIGH POWER LED BULB 194 168 158"
- 2 for 8.99+S&H
Console - "SUPER BLUE HIGH POWER LED BULB 211-2 212-2 214-2"
- 1 for 6.99 + S&H (can combine)
Just another custom option.
Byron - #40253 - N253RV assigned - more finishing, wiring, and firewall
forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
$125.00 each
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Looks like the vent from
an old Camaro.
Your post got truncated at the most important part the price! Dont leave us
in suspense!
TDT
40025
---------------------------------
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John N. Strain II
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
Date: Wed, 16 Aug 2006 07:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
I am attatching a photo of even another option for vents. These vents are
the most highly styled available and provide more air movement than any of the
others that have been mentioned. They were displayed in the Flightline AC booth
as an upgrade option to our ac systems. They mount thru a skin (overhead
or panel) by drilling a 2.5" hole and are held in place by a threaded fitting
that can accept a 2.5" hose, or they are trimmed to allow for use in an overhead
panel. They fully close off, partially open, and fully open via a telescoping
mechanism and rotate 360' to be able to focus air movement. They are a machined
aluminum part. They sell for
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Overhead Console |
I have an overhead console from a '95 Chevy Blazer that I've decided not to
use. It is in used condition and looks good, except for a slight cut in the
fabric on one side. I'd like to sell it - $37 including shipping in the US
only, which is what I paid.
Kevin D. Belue
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com> |
| Subject: | Air Vent Recommendation |
You are correct. The small ones need a hole (OD) or 2", the large ones need
a hole (OD) of 2.8" or nearly 3".
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim
Dawson-Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 2:46 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Air Vent Recommendation
So, Stein, you need about 2 inches of panel space for the 1.25 vent and 3
inches of space for the 2 vent?
TDT
40025
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Overhead Console |
Kevin
I will take your console. I will be out of town until Monday. We can
discuss details then.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Belue, Kevin
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 7:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Console
I have an overhead console from a '95 Chevy Blazer that I've decided not to
use. It is in used condition and looks good, except for a slight cut in the
fabric on one side. I'd like to sell it - $37 including shipping in the US
only, which is what I paid.
Kevin D. Belue
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console - Lighting |
another link to LEDs. http://www.superbrightleds.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 3:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console - Lighting
>
> For some others that are utilizing the Chevrolet overhead console, I
> have found some decent LED lights that are a perfect retrofit. I wanted
> to ditch the factory white ones so began playing around fabricating some
> bulbs - they worked great but were time consuming to fabricate. I
> checked at my favorite store and found some options to investigate. I
> bought 4 Red LED bulbs for the map lights and a blue for the dome light.
> I bought several others to try out but these are the best I found. All
> look great. The seller on eBay that I used was "velocityled_1" there are
> likely others but he was super fast and very professional to deal with.
> They are set for 12V automotive application so are already set with
> resistors and diode for current protection.
>
> The power draw is 0.05A each - all 5 lights lit up .25A
>
> Eyeball - "VELOCITY LEDS SUPER RED HIGH POWER LED BULB 194 168 158"
> - 2 for 8.99+S&H
> Console - "SUPER BLUE HIGH POWER LED BULB 211-2 212-2 214-2"
> - 1 for 6.99 + S&H (can combine)
>
> Just another custom option.
>
> Byron - #40253 - N253RV assigned - more finishing, wiring, and firewall
> forward
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Overhead Console |
Ok, John. Contact me off-list when you're ready.
Kevin D. Belue
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Testement [mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 6:56 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Console
>
>
> Kevin
>
> I will take your console. I will be out of town until Monday. We can
> discuss details then.
>
> John Testement
> jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
> 40321
> Richmond, VA
> Finish kit - gear legs and wheels
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Belue, Kevin
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 7:09 PM
> To: 'rv10-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Console
>
>
> I have an overhead console from a '95 Chevy Blazer that I've decided not
to
> use. It is in used condition and looks good, except for a slight cut in
the
> fabric on one side. I'd like to sell it - $37 including shipping in the US
> only, which is what I paid.
>
> Kevin D. Belue
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: door seal (was Overhead Console) |
Thanks Larry, that's what I was trying to find. I actually had found it
from a response from Mark Ritter, but thank you for responding. I also
found out that Alex De Dominicis will be carrying them on his web site
for a liitle bit less than what you can buy them for at AirCraft Door
Seals. Here is Alex's web site address, if anyone is interested. I don't
think they are posted yet be he has them available.
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/aviationtechproducts.html
Alex also does RV10 transition training here in the Dallas/Fort Worth
area if anyone is interested in transition training. I will be doing my
transition training with him. His RV10 has air conditioning for the hot
weather here. Alex is an Air Traffic Controller here in the DFW area.
http://www.rvtraining.com/
Wayne Edgerton #40336
gonna try and start on the wheel pants which everyone says is really
great fun
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: door seal (was Overhead Console) |
Hi again Larry,
I forgot to answer your question on what I found out on price of the
seals.
The people at AIrcraft Door Seals said the seals would be $69.95 per
door and $39.95 for the baggage door. I talked breifly with Alex on my
cell when I was in Lowes yesterday so I can't remember his exact price
but he was in the $56 per door range or something like that. I've got to
call him back on the exact price. He said he should have in posted to
his site real soon.
Wayne Edgerton
#40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Insurance for buildingInsurance for first flight |
HI Michael,
I have mine insured (actually I just noticed underinsured) with Avemco.
I currently have $100,000 coverage and it's costing me $865 a year. My
notes say for $80,000 it would be $708.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: door seal (was Overhead Console) |
My son and I did transition training with Alex. In addition to being a
great guy you will love the A/C. It's going to be 104 today in Austin.
Mark
>From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: door seal (was Overhead Console)
>Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2006 06:48:06 -0500
>
>Thanks Larry, that's what I was trying to find. I actually had found it
>from a response from Mark Ritter, but thank you for responding. I also
>found out that Alex De Dominicis will be carrying them on his web site for
>a liitle bit less than what you can buy them for at AirCraft Door Seals.
>Here is Alex's web site address, if anyone is interested. I don't think
>they are posted yet be he has them available.
>
>http://www.rvtraining.com/html/aviationtechproducts.html
>
>Alex also does RV10 transition training here in the Dallas/Fort Worth area
>if anyone is interested in transition training. I will be doing my
>transition training with him. His RV10 has air conditioning for the hot
>weather here. Alex is an Air Traffic Controller here in the DFW area.
>
>http://www.rvtraining.com/
>
>
>Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
>gonna try and start on the wheel pants which everyone says is really great
>fun
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Insurance for first flight |
| From: | "Lockamy, Jack L" <jack.lockamy(at)navy.mil> |
Most public airports REQUIRE One-Million Dollars of LIABILITY Insurance
before you can 'legally' hangar, tiedown, store or operate your aircraft
on the airport public property. Check with the local Airport Manager.
I had to name my airport on my insurance policy in order for the airport
to be covered in case of a loss. I don't have a million dollars in my
checking account so I had to purchase this coverage from somebody that
does (Falcon Insurance Broker, AIG underwriter).
HULL insurance or as some refer to it as 'collision', is NOT required.
If you have deep pockets and/or can afford to self-insure your $100K
plus RV-10, go for it. Most homebuilders I know can not afford to lose
$100K, therefore we buy insurance. I had the million dollar liability
insurance and NO HULL on my Sonex (N164JL) and had a very unfortunate
crash that I tell others cost me $35K in less than 10 seconds when the
prop hub disconnected from the crankshaft. That was a very big blow to
my savings account and I learned the hard way. It can happen to
anybody. Can you handle the financial loss if it happened to you? My
current aircraft (RV-7A) is FULLY insured with both HULL and LIABILITY!
:-)
I'm no DAR, but I don't believe they 'give a hoot' whether you have
insurance or not.
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 210 hrs.
RV-10 lurker... thinking about it
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <seanblair(at)adelphia.net> |
I just had the opportunity to take a terrific ride in an AT-6 Texan this last weekend.
Complete with all the aerobatics I cared to enjoy. What a blast!!!
We got the G reading to just under 4. The secret to a calm stomach.....half a
Diet Dr. Pepper for breakfast on the way there.
Just out of curiousity.....what are the positive and negative G ratings of the
ten? I haven't seen these published anywhere. I know we won't do the aerobatic
thing in our 10, but out of comparison to my recent experience I want to know.
Thanks,
Sean Blair
#40225
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Andair Fuel Valve. |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
At Oshkosh, I ordered the new Andair valve (FS20X7) (http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html) for my RV10. When I got home, I read Tim Olson's site and the problems he had with clearance with the male AN fittings. So, I sent an email to Andy and told him of the clearance problem on the RV10 with that valve.
I was expecting him to send me a valve with female ends on it so that I could
put my own 90 degree el's on it. Instead, he sent me this. Check out the pics
below.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55380#55380
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05666_742.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05665_474.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05656_278.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05659_993.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hi Len
Many thanks for the very kind offer - I just may make my way out to Kelowna
to see your project. I have made contact with NAIT to see if they have a
programme that will work with my schedule. I would like to take a course in
metal work as I have never done this before.
I have also been toying with taking a SportAir course or perhaps even trying
one of the builder assist centers for the empennage. I would guess that
after 8-10 days of intense work, I should acquire most of the skills
required to complete the airframe. Fiberglass will be another thing!
Cheers
Les Kearney
Edmonton, Alberta
(780) 707-0169
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of L Aune
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 11:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: New to the list
Les
I am a builder from Kelowna working on the doors at present. I am an
AME-M and an AME-S teaching aircraft structures for BCIT. If you
ever get out this way I'll give you a mini start-up course which will
safely get you started on this great project. Drop by or call Len
250-766-5456.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | New Andair Fuel Valve. |
What part number goes with this?
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 8:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel Valve.
Guys,
At Oshkosh, I ordered the new Andair valve (FS20X7)
(http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html) for my RV10. When I got home, I
read Tim Olson's site and the problems he had with clearance with the male
AN fittings. So, I sent an email to Andy and told him of the clearance
problem on the RV10 with that valve.
I was expecting him to send me a valve with female ends on it so that I
could put my own 90 degree el's on it. Instead, he sent me this. Check out
the pics below.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55380#55380
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05666_742.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05665_474.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05656_278.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05659_993.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neal George" <neal(at)appaero.com> |
| Subject: | New Andair Fuel Valve. |
Carl -
The complete part number for the valve pictured is FS20X7T
FS = Fuel Selector
20 = line diameter in 1/2-mm increments (10mm is about 3/8" or AN6)
X = Male AN6 outlet fitting. Female outlet would be "F"
T = 90-deg elbow AN6 inlet fittings. Or "M" for male, "F" for female.
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
Home - 850-515-0640
Cell - 850-218-4838
What part number goes with this?
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New Andair Fuel Valve. |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Yep, that's the best one to use from Andair at the moment. It's more
aesthetically pleasing with the "Y" configuration and much easier to get
lines attached. Check out various entries @:
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=msausen&project=22&cate
gory=1703>
Michael Sausen
-10 #352
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 7:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: New Andair Fuel Valve.
Guys,
At Oshkosh, I ordered the new Andair valve (FS20X7)
(http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html) for my RV10. When I got
home, I read Tim Olson's site and the problems he had with clearance
with the male AN fittings. So, I sent an email to Andy and told him of
the clearance problem on the RV10 with that valve.
I was expecting him to send me a valve with female ends on it so that
I could put my own 90 degree el's on it. Instead, he sent me this.
Check out the pics below.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55380#55380
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05666_742.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05665_474.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05656_278.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05659_993.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Andair Fuel Valve. |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
carl.froehlich(at)cox.net wrote:
> What part number goes with this?
>
> Carl
>
> --
Carl,
My invoice says Part No. FS20X7-T
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55406#55406
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MVP-50 Fuel Flow Transducer |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
If anyone is going to use the MVP-50 from Electronis Intl like I am, you might
save yourself some time and NOT install the fuel-flow transducer bracket in the
tunnel.
EI does NOT use the FlowScan transducer. They use their own that they designed.
They do not want it mounted "rigid." They want it mounted on a flex line
just before the fuel goes into the divider. They told me they reason for that
is that they want fuel "PUSHED" into the Transducer and not possibly "PULLED"
by the engine fuel pump.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55408#55408
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Here is another company with lots of options.
http://autolumination.com/
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron
Gillespie
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 5:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console - Lighting
For some others that are utilizing the Chevrolet overhead console, I
have found some decent LED lights that are a perfect retrofit. I wanted
to ditch the factory white ones so began playing around fabricating some
bulbs - they worked great but were time consuming to fabricate. I
checked at my favorite store and found some options to investigate. I
bought 4 Red LED bulbs for the map lights and a blue for the dome light.
I bought several others to try out but these are the best I found. All
look great. The seller on eBay that I used was "velocityled_1" there are
likely others but he was super fast and very professional to deal with.
They are set for 12V automotive application so are already set with
resistors and diode for current protection.
The power draw is 0.05A each - all 5 lights lit up .25A
Eyeball - "VELOCITY LEDS SUPER RED HIGH POWER LED BULB 194 168 158"
- 2 for 8.99+S&H
Console - "SUPER BLUE HIGH POWER LED BULB 211-2 212-2 214-2"
- 1 for 6.99 + S&H (can combine)
Just another custom option.
Byron - #40253 - N253RV assigned - more finishing, wiring, and firewall
forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jsmcgrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | My Tunnel Heat Fix |
Second try to post this message:
On my first 3 flights the tunnel got very warm. You could still hold your hand
on it (just barely) but it was hot in there. Additionally, the belly of the aircraft
just aft of the cowling was HOT after the flight. Now that I've made some
easy changes the tunnel is cool to lukewarm and there is no appreciable heat
on the belly after flight. I've been flying in 80 to 90+ degree weather with
the heater scat tubing connected.
I heard about the tunnel heat problem a little late and I built only a few preemptive
things into the plane. I put ceramic gaskets behind the heater valves to
keep heat from transfering to the firewall/tunnel. I installed a blast tube
on the firewall forward of the tunnel. And I installed a computer fan in the tunnel
cover just over the fuel pump (this actually made a big difference in tunnel
heat once I turned it on.)
These things didn't fix the problem, but here's what did. I was having CHT and
oil temp overheating problems and one of the things I did to fix this problem
was increase the cowl air exit area to improve air flow. As you can see from the
photo I enlarged one of the louvers and added an additional one - this didn't
make much difference alone. Then I trimmed the aft edge of the "reverse scoop"
forward about an inch (see photo). This increases the exit area, but I think
it also allows the hot air to move down and away from the fuse and disipate
faster.
I'm sure that I added extra drag to my plane, but the engine and tunnel are now
cool.
Jim McGrew
40134 - flying
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Here is another company with lots of options.
http://autolumination.com/
Michael Sausen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Byron
Gillespie
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 5:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console - Lighting
For some others that are utilizing the Chevrolet overhead console, I
have found some decent LED lights that are a perfect retrofit. I wanted
to ditch the factory white ones so began playing around fabricating some
bulbs - they worked great but were time consuming to fabricate. I
checked at my favorite store and found some options to investigate. I
bought 4 Red LED bulbs for the map lights and a blue for the dome light.
I bought several others to try out but these are the best I found. All
look great. The seller on eBay that I used was "velocityled_1" there are
likely others but he was super fast and very professional to deal with.
They are set for 12V automotive application so are already set with
resistors and diode for current protection.
The power draw is 0.05A each - all 5 lights lit up .25A
Eyeball - "VELOCITY LEDS SUPER RED HIGH POWER LED BULB 194 168 158"
- 2 for 8.99+S&H
Console - "SUPER BLUE HIGH POWER LED BULB 211-2 212-2 214-2"
- 1 for 6.99 + S&H (can combine)
Just another custom option.
Byron - #40253 - N253RV assigned - more finishing, wiring, and firewall
forward
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Sean:
It's on page 21 of the final inspection and flight test section of the
builder's manual. As Tim posted +3.8 and -1.9 at a gross weight of 2700
lbs.
There are a couple of paragraphs on G loading and testing. This section has
lots of other good "stuff"; it may not come until you order the finish kit
if you are not that far along.
There is no discussion about "rolling Gs" so you have to assume these limits
are for none rolling conditions only. Pulling near limiting G loads at the
same time as a roll input can easily overstress the down aileron wing.
Any of the aerobatic RVs will fly rings around an AT6, sure miss the RV4.
Bananas are good for breakfast too..they taste the same coming up as going
down.
All the best.
Dick Sipp
40065 finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | My Tunnel Heat Fix |
Jim,
Great fix and I'm glad it worked so well, may end up doing that myself.
The really impressive thing is the nerve to make the changes since they
would be tough to undo. That's the great thing about homebuilts, think of a
fix and act on it. Not everyone would have the conviction to do it though -
great job!
Marcus
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jsmcgrew(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 3:59 PM
Subject: RV10-List: My Tunnel Heat Fix
Second try to post this message:
On my first 3 flights the tunnel got very warm. You could still hold your
hand on it (just barely) but it was hot in there. Additionally, the belly of
the aircraft just aft of the cowling was HOT after the flight. Now that I've
made some easy changes the tunnel is cool to lukewarm and there is no
appreciable heat on the belly after flight. I've been flying in 80 to 90+
degree weather with the heater scat tubing connected.
I heard about the tunnel heat problem a little late and I built only a few
preemptive things into the plane. I put ceramic gaskets behind the heater
valves to keep heat from transfering to the firewall/tunnel. I installed a
blast tube on the firewall forward of the tunnel. And I installed a computer
fan in the tunnel cover just over the fuel pump (this actually made a big
difference in tunnel heat once I turned it on.)
These things didn't fix the problem, but here's what did. I was having CHT
and oil temp overheating problems and one of the things I did to fix this
problem was increase the cowl air exit area to improve air flow. As you can
see from the photo I enlarged one of the louvers and added an additional one
- this didn't make much difference alone. Then I trimmed the aft edge of the
"reverse scoop" forward about an inch (see photo). This increases the exit
area, but I think it also allows the hot air to move down and away from the
fuse and disipate faster.
I'm sure that I added extra drag to my plane, but the engine and tunnel are
now cool.
Jim McGrew
40134 - flying
_____
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Valve Clearance Solution |
I just spoke with the people at Matco about returning my front wheel for
exchange and they said, like a previous poster had said, they will take
it back if it hadn't been mounted yet. The only difference from the last
post is that there is a small fee for returning it. The fee is $18.30
plus you pay the shipping charges. If it's been mounted, like mine was
but the plane had never been moved, they have to evaluate whether they
can accept it back as new or if the have to repair it or not. I couldn't
see a scratch on mine but I'll have to wait and see what they say.
I told the lady, Carolyn, that others said there was no charge if they
hadn't been mounted yet and she told me that she has set up the
receiving on all of these exchanges and they all were or would be
charged the standard fee.
For what ever it's worth.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
front wheel off and going back
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Valve Clearance Solution |
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I'm already deleting a whole bunch of stuff from the finish kit and I
think this will be another item. No sense in paying for it to be
shipped to me, returned, and have another handling fee and shipping fee
assessed. Sure would be nice if Van's would just start using the
correct part. I'm sure Matco has brought this up with them.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 4:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Valve Clearance Solution
I just spoke with the people at Matco about returning my front wheel for
exchange and they said, like a previous poster had said, they will take
it back if it hadn't been mounted yet. The only difference from the last
post is that there is a small fee for returning it. The fee is $18.30
plus you pay the shipping charges. If it's been mounted, like mine was
but the plane had never been moved, they have to evaluate whether they
can accept it back as new or if the have to repair it or not. I couldn't
see a scratch on mine but I'll have to wait and see what they say.
I told the lady, Carolyn, that others said there was no charge if they
hadn't been mounted yet and she told me that she has set up the
receiving on all of these exchanges and they all were or would be
charged the standard fee.
For what ever it's worth.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
front wheel off and going bac
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Valve Clearance Solution |
Since I was one of the first to exchange I believe there was a slight
difference in list price. My total exchange cost $27 including freight
IIRC.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 2:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Wheel Valve Clearance Solution
I just spoke with the people at Matco about returning my front wheel
for exchange and they said, like a previous poster had said, they will
take it back if it hadn't been mounted yet. The only difference from the
last post is that there is a small fee for returning it. The fee is
$18.30 plus you pay the shipping charges. If it's been mounted, like
mine was but the plane had never been moved, they have to evaluate
whether they can accept it back as new or if the have to repair it or
not. I couldn't see a scratch on mine but I'll have to wait and see what
they say.
I told the lady, Carolyn, that others said there was no charge if they
hadn't been mounted yet and she told me that she has set up the
receiving on all of these exchanges and they all were or would be
charged the standard fee.
For what ever it's worth.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
front wheel off and going back
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Re: Installation drawing/picture of TruTrak Auto Pitch Trim |
Does anyone with the TruTrak Auto Pitch Trim have a picture of how the
"Link Trim Sensor" gets installed? The installation manual says "Note:
The link sensor replaces the existing push-rod between the pitch servo
and the control system. This sensor is required for the system to
function; it is part of the fail safe design of the system.", but I
can't figure out how the heck I'm supposed to do that. The link sensor
has a rod end bearing on one end...what do I do with the other end?
I've emailed trutrak, but guess I need to call them as I can't seem to
get a response. This is one case where a picture would be worth a
thousand words.
>
> Thanks,
> PJ
> RV-10 #40032
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
Here's what I am doing for the HTS (Hot Tunnel Syndrome). I made two brackets
that raise up off the bottom floor by 1 inch. They are simple U-brackets made
from .050 2024. The existing cradle brackets are then riveted on and three
holes on each flange are then riveted to the Tunnel side walls.
I have a"KoolMat" insulation layer laying on the floor followed by 1 inch of
closed cell foam I bought from Wicks. The fuel lines will be firesleeved when
I finish making them.
SO much easier working in the Tunnel without the side skins on!
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55650#55650
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05668_130.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05670_402.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05674_261.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05675_183.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The correct spacer for the B&C unit is 1.4".
Bob #40104
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55733#55733
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Filter Adapter |
Also, if you are going to use the 20 amp B&C back up alternator you will
require an angled adapter for the back up alternator.
Larry
bcondrey wrote:
>
> The correct spacer for the B&C unit is 1.4".
>
> Bob #40104
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=55733#55733
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Bobby Hargrave ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Bobby Hargrave
Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
Subject: Sticky Exhaust Valve
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/bphargrave@worldnet.att.net.1.08.19.2006/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Flight aware dot com |
I was fooling around with this website and found it interesting to see
the type of plane Tim has actually been flying. Check it out. See what
the aircraft type comes up for his plane on his last IFR trip.
-Chris
#40072
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
I am using the GP301-12 pre-oiler from Infinity Aerospace ($230.00 plus
shipping).
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/
I obtained the check valve from a local plumbing supply house (don't get the
flapper type) and the hoses were made locally. I mounted the pre-oiler on
the right side firewall down low and ran the inlet line from an extra sump
plug and the outlet line up to the ECI 90 degree adapter drain plug 1/4"
even with the reduced line flow the pre-oiler works great.
Russ Daves
N710RV (Phase II - In Paint Shop)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: A few new photos and items posted
Russ: What pre-oiler are you using?
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: N585MR Flies! |
I also trimed the baffles on one and two.It helped quite a bit they still run
a little hotter than I would like and I adjust climbout accordingly.I ordered
a Sam James plenum and will report the results.When OAT"s are in the 90"s #1
will hit 425 at a climbout of 120kts.Also Alex De dominicis developed louvres
which he reports lowers chts quite a bit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
If you want to save yourself about $100 on these, look around online.
These are common Reverso pumps. JD doesn't even change the part numbers
other than dropping the "H" off the end for high volume. He just sells
them at list price. One example is here:
http://www.marine-electronics-unlimited.com/Reverso+Oil+Gear+Pumps.html
Interestingly enough, they only have a temperature rating of 140F.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russell Daves
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 5:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Pre-Oiler
I am using the GP301-12 pre-oiler from Infinity Aerospace ($230.00 plus
shipping).
http://www.infinityaerospace.com/
I obtained the check valve from a local plumbing supply house (don't get
the flapper type) and the hoses were made locally. I mounted the
pre-oiler on the right side firewall down low and ran the inlet line
from an extra sump plug and the outlet line up to the ECI 90 degree
adapter drain plug 1/4"
even with the reduced line flow the pre-oiler works great.
Russ Daves
N710RV (Phase II - In Paint Shop)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2006 4:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: A few new photos and items posted
Russ: What pre-oiler are you using?
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Franke" <pfranke(at)tpg.com.au> |
| Subject: | First Flights Down Under |
I'll throw another one into the mix. VH-VIO built by Andre Viljoen in
Canberra has been flying for several months now.
Cheers,
Peter F
> VH-ZEG Chris Zeitz - First flew late June/Early July in South Australia.
> VH-TXD Terry Doe in Western AUS
>
> VH-NVL Neville Boyle #40107 in Victoria (and I should have answered my
> earlier question) sorry.
>
> VH-DRS Scott Lewis who was selling his tail kit in South AUS
>
> VH-VDM Douglas Montague in Peakhurst NSW, AUS which I believe is flying
>
> VH-ELU John Jogodnik flying in May, 2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Skybolt adjustable cam locks |
Don't know if any of you have considered cam locks vs hinges for your
cowling. Skybolt has adjustable camlocks for the RV10 and they have a
RV10 kit. The non adjustable camlocks would be a problem because they
would loosen and damage the cowling. With the adjustable one you can
keep them tight by adjusting them as they loosen.
If anyone is interested here is their web site. Look around until you
find the RV section. I'm just now installing mine. We'll see how well
it goes.
http://www.skybolt.com/
Here is their blurb.
VANS RV SERIES AND OTHER KIT PLANE INSTALLATION
Skybolt has perfected the installation of CLoc=AE Fasteners in hundreds
of Vans RV 4,6,7,8,9 and 10 and other kit planes. The Skybolt design
adds functionality and appearance to any cowling. Hinge is the perfect
design for a pop-rivet aircraft. Skybolt CLoc=AE is the perfect design
for a true investment in pride.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
working installing camlocks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Skybolt adjustable cam locks |
Wayne,
I used the Skybolt camlocks around the fuselage and they work great. I went
with the piano hinge to connect the upper and lower cowls along the
horizontal axis. I used the piano hinge because there are no curves along
the sides (pins easy to get in and out) and they makes for a "clean" look.
Mark (N410MR flying)
>From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV10-List: Skybolt adjustable cam locks
>Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2006 08:32:21 -0500
>
>Don't know if any of you have considered cam locks vs hinges for your
>cowling. Skybolt has adjustable camlocks for the RV10 and they have a RV10
>kit. The non adjustable camlocks would be a problem because they would
>loosen and damage the cowling. With the adjustable one you can keep them
>tight by adjusting them as they loosen.
>
>If anyone is interested here is their web site. Look around until you find
>the RV section. I'm just now installing mine. We'll see how well it goes.
>
>http://www.skybolt.com/
>
>Here is their blurb.
>
>VANS RV SERIES AND OTHER KIT PLANE INSTALLATION
>Skybolt has perfected the installation of CLoc Fasteners in hundreds of
>Vans RV 4,6,7,8,9 and 10 and other kit planes. The Skybolt design adds
>functionality and appearance to any cowling. Hinge is the perfect design
>for a pop-rivet aircraft. Skybolt CLoc is the perfect design for a true
>investment in pride.
>
>
>Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
>working installing camlocks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skybolt adjustable cam locks |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr(at)hughes.net> |
Mark I did the same thing!! Adjustable camlock next to the fuselage and hinge on
the half separation. When I realized I was going to have to do a lot of reenforcing
the upper and lover half for the camlocks, I decided to go with the hinge.
Not a lot of room for the camlocks next to the valve covers .I bought the
RV-10 kit from Skybolt and didn't use but half of it. You might just want to
buy enough camlocks just to do the back half.
Finished everything, waiting on panel this week!!!!
Jim
40383
Slow build
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56112#56112
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | almost ready!!!!! |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr(at)hughes.net> |
Panel arriving this week!! A few weeks, should be up!!!! and Flying!!!
Jim & Julie Wade
40383
slow build
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56115#56115
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/imgp0037_119.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | Re: almost ready!!!!! |
Jim & Julie Wade wrote:
>
> Panel arriving this week!! A few weeks, should be up!!!! and Flying!!!
>
> Jim & Julie Wade
> 40383
> slow build
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56115#56115
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/imgp0037_119.jpg
>
That's a very nice looking paint job!
-Sean #40303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: almost ready!!!!! |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr(at)hughes.net> |
Yea Sean that has been one of the hardest jobs. Finally took everything to a friends
body shop and used his paint booth. Did all the priming in my own homemade
booth, Sanded, then took it to paint. We are very happy with the results.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56164#56164
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod(at)hughes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Skybolt adjustable cam locks |
I used the Skybolt camlocs on my RV-7. As I see it the advantage besides
adjusting for wear is adjusting for the thickness of the cowling. Being
a hand laid up fiberglass piece it is not a consistant thickness and the
adjustable camlocs make it easy to set up on the original installation.
I'm happy with thim so far but only have about 30 hours on them so far.
I have not installed the retainers for the outer part that locks into
the airframe yet because I'm still tweaking things.
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 6:32 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Skybolt adjustable cam locks
Don't know if any of you have considered cam locks vs hinges for your
cowling. Skybolt has adjustable camlocks for the RV10 and they have a
RV10 kit. The non adjustable camlocks would be a problem because they
would loosen and damage the cowling. With the adjustable one you can
keep them tight by adjusting them as they loosen.
If anyone is interested here is their web site. Look around until you
find the RV section. I'm just now installing mine. We'll see how well
it goes.
http://www.skybolt.com/
Here is their blurb.
VANS RV SERIES AND OTHER KIT PLANE INSTALLATION
Skybolt has perfected the installation of CLoc=AE Fasteners in
hundreds of Vans RV 4,6,7,8,9 and 10 and other kit planes. The Skybolt
design adds functionality and appearance to any cowling. Hinge is the
perfect design for a pop-rivet aircraft. Skybolt CLoc=AE is the perfect
design for a true investment in pride.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
working installing camlocks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian Douglas" <bsponcil(at)belinblank.org> |
| Subject: | Re: almost ready!!!!! |
Wow the paint came out great! I'm really interested to hear your
perspective on the Blue Mountain stuff once you get flying. Keep us posted.
-Brian
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr(at)hughes.net>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 12:36 PM
Subject: RV10-List: almost ready!!!!!
>
>
> Panel arriving this week!! A few weeks, should be up!!!! and Flying!!!
>
> Jim & Julie Wade
> 40383
> slow build
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56115#56115
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/imgp0037_119.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Window overspray |
| From: | "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com> |
Hi,
A product I had recommended to me by an A&P was DuPont's PrepSol ("5
Star" brand has the similar product called Wax and Grease Remover.) It
should be available in the local car paint shop in quarts and gallons. I
used it on a Cessna to clean some overspray off and it worked well
without harming the Plexiglas. I have not used it on Van's windows so if
you go this way try it on a scrap first.
Vern (#40324 wings)
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus
Cooper
> Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 6:39 PM
>
>
> Some time ago there were some great responses on how to remove
overspray
> from the windows. At the time I was scoffing the idea and didn't save
> what
> would now be some extremely valuable information. Any reposting, or
at
> least the proper search words (no luck on my part), would be deeply
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> 40286 - engine running, dangerously close to inspection time! If I
can
> just
> get all the Gucci panels programmed I'll be in business.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 |
| From: | "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com> |
Hi All,
I've lost the email, but someone asked about ship dates of finishing
kits and if they had the aluminum or stainless spacers (part number
U-1032.) I checked and my kit was packed on 2-6-06 and included the
stainless steel spacers.
Vern (#40324)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Battery Cable Routing |
I'm running the wires and finding the battery cable a puzzle. How have
others routed the cable once you reach the front spar? In the tunnel and
forward, through the firewall to the starter contactor? I'm not even sure
where to mount the starter contactor.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Battery Cable Routing |
I ran mine down the left side of the plane, under the baggage floor in
the back then through the side wall under the door. The starter
contactor bolts to the firewall on the middle left side.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert
Gardner
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Battery Cable Routing
I'm running the wires and finding the battery cable a puzzle. How have
others routed the cable once you reach the front spar? In the tunnel and
forward, through the firewall to the starter contactor? I'm not even
sure where to mount the starter contactor. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Cable Routing |
Al, I'm in the midst of doing the same thing. I grounded my batteries
(dual batteries, dual alt) locally (@ their mounting point. This was
discussed on Aero Electric connection and got Bob Nuckols blessing) and
ran a #2 welding cable forward on the left side (for starter)+ 2 10 AWG
for main batt bus & Aux batt bus. Ran #4 cable forward on the left side
for Main bus + 10 awg for Aux Bus.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finishing/Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>
>I'm running the wires and finding the battery cable a puzzle. How have
>others routed the cable once you reach the front spar? In the tunnel and
>forward, through the firewall to the starter contactor? I'm not even sure
>where to mount the starter contactor.
>Albert Gardner
>Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | GM LS2 Engine - opinions |
I'm a long way from engine selection, but I've been hearing a lot of
good commentary on the GM LS2 engine (used in the 2005 Corvette). The
ones I have seen on aircraft have been derated to a maximum of 4500 RPM
(redline is over 6500 RPM) limiting the HP to 300HP.
The engine new is less than $6k. Of course, all the mods will add up to
closer to $20k altogether.
Opinions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I just received my new wheel from Matco today and already had the spacers so it
was swap time. After reassembly and torque to standard value (160-190 in lbs)
I was dismayed to see the spacers turning with the wheel. Only way this can
happen is that the axle is slighly longer than the wheel/bearing/spacer assembly.
I'm going to call Van's tomorrow to see what they recommend before shaving
a bit off the axle or doing another mod like set screws through the fork, etc.
Seems like with some preload they wouldn't be able to turn at all...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56548#56548
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Cable Routing |
Why not run the battery to buss wire from the hot side of the starter relay
to the primary buss.(less weight and wire) also hook the batteries in
parallel so that either or both may be used to start. The grounding wires
for the master switches need be only #20 to the hot side of the master
contactor for each battery. Remember to put the diodes on the relays to
protect the contactors.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:21 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Battery Cable Routing
>
> Al, I'm in the midst of doing the same thing. I grounded my batteries
> (dual batteries, dual alt) locally (@ their mounting point. This was
> discussed on Aero Electric connection and got Bob Nuckols blessing) and
> ran a #2 welding cable forward on the left side (for starter)+ 2 10 AWG
> for main batt bus & Aux batt bus. Ran #4 cable forward on the left side
> for Main bus + 10 awg for Aux Bus.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Fuse/Finishing/Panel
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Albert Gardner wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>I'm running the wires and finding the battery cable a puzzle. How have
>>others routed the cable once you reach the front spar? In the tunnel and
>>forward, through the firewall to the starter contactor? I'm not even sure
>>where to mount the starter contactor.
>>Albert Gardner
>>Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KiloPapa" <kilopapa(at)antelecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Window overspray |
Read the reply from John Cox in this thread before you use any solvents:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=5024
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window overspray
>
> Hi,
>
> A product I had recommended to me by an A&P was DuPont's PrepSol ("5
> Star" brand has the similar product called Wax and Grease Remover.) It
> should be available in the local car paint shop in quarts and gallons. I
> used it on a Cessna to clean some overspray off and it worked well
> without harming the Plexiglas. I have not used it on Van's windows so if
> you go this way try it on a scrap first.
>
> Vern (#40324 wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Build times - time to get restarted? |
I was one of the first to buy a tail kit (#22), but life intruded and
after some initial progress the kid has been untouched for the last 2
years. I'm now getting the itch to get hack into the project, but I'm
wonder if I've bit off more than I can chew.
I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has completed, or nearly
completed a Quick-Build RV-10, regard times to completion for each of
the sub-kits (empecone, wings, etc). Did you try to optimize for lowest
cost of fastest build time? What major obstacles did you hit? What
words of advice/encouragement would you offer?
Its getting depressing to see the tail parts hanging there every time I
pull into the garage. Its time for me to either get my you-know-what in
gear or admit to myself that this isn't going to happen and sell the
tail kit.
Replies directly to this email _lr_@yahoo.com are welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Larry Rachman
ISP
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Erickson" <john.erickson(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Build times - time to get restarted? |
Larry,
I've got kit #40208 and have also been getting discouraged now and then as I
see guys with slowbuild numbers well after mine flying already. I'm
military, have a couple kids, and while my building hasn't stopped (other
than during a couple deployments), let's just say the wing flaps have taken
me over 9 months so far, and not because the flaps are difficult.
That being said, when I first started building a couple years ago, I set a
goal of flying in 2 - 3 years. Obviously not going to happen. I changed my
goal a year or so ago. I enjoy building. A lot. However, when I try to put
a deadline on the project, it seems to turn from a fun project to a job.
I've decided I'm going to work on it at whatever pace is enjoyable, and it
will fly when it flies. (or as someone on the list said, I'll fly it when I
run out of parts.)
My recommendation. Get the tools out and get your shop set back up. Don't
try to power through building your plane (besides, we're not building
airplanes, we're building hundreds of small projects that end up flying in
close formation). Spend 5 minutes out in the garage doing a little bit.
Spend 4 hours if it feels good (and the family lets you). Just go out there
a couple times a week and say hi to the project. Eventually it will be
done. Don't worry about times for subcomponents or total build because then
you WILL get depressed when, like me, you find it takes longer to build part
X than Joe Bagodonuts took to do the same thing.
Just my $0.02 worth...
John
#40208 Wings (still)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry R
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 6:13 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Build times - time to get restarted?
I was one of the first to buy a tail kit (#22), but life intruded and after
some initial progress the kid has been untouched for the last 2 years. I'm
now getting the itch to get hack into the project, but I'm wonder if I've
bit off more than I can chew.
I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has completed, or nearly
completed a Quick-Build RV-10, regard times to completion for each of the
sub-kits (empecone, wings, etc). Did you try to optimize for lowest cost of
fastest build time? What major obstacles did you hit? What words of
advice/encouragement would you offer?
Its getting depressing to see the tail parts hanging there every time I pull
into the garage. Its time for me to either get my you-know-what in gear or
admit to myself that this isn't going to happen and sell the tail kit.
Replies directly to this email _lr_@yahoo.com are welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Larry Rachman
ISP
__________________________________________________
__________ NOD32 1.1721 (20060823) Information __________
This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the RV-10 |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I just talked w/Tom at Van's and his suggestion is to check spacing with a feeler
gauge and adjust the axle accordingly. He also said that behavior would be
possibly be very different with the wheel off the ground than with full weight
on it.
I guess I'll be measuring and adjusting the front axle length tonight...
On related note - what's the best way to jack up the plane for nose wheel work?
I've been using my engine hoist but assume there's another option for "in the
field" work.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56657#56657
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Build times - time to get restarted? |
Larry,
I purchased tail kit #43 November 1, 2003 (QB Fuse and wings). The plane
was inspected on July 21 and I flew it on July 22, 2006. I worked on the
project two or three days most weeks and didn't let it consume all my free
time. Saving time for the grandchildren, fishing and a little time at the
office around pay day was just as important as finishing the plane. I
wanted to keep the project "fun". Some days you just have to say the hell
with it and go do something else.
Early on I decided not to keep track of my time or cost. It was going to
take what it took and I sure didn't want to set any deadlines. I get enough
of that stuff at my CPA office.
In my case it seemed to be more fun when I could enlist the help of friends
and enjoy a cold one at the end of a day bucking rivets. Most of my
friends will work for beer.
The plane is great and performs as advertised but I really enjoyed the
building. Learning new skills and the sense of accomplishment is what it
was all about for me.
Mark
>From: Larry R <_lr_@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Build times - time to get restarted?
>Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 06:13:28 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>I was one of the first to buy a tail kit (#22), but life intruded and
>after some initial progress the kid has been untouched for the last 2
>years. I'm now getting the itch to get hack into the project, but I'm
>wonder if I've bit off more than I can chew.
>
>I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has completed, or nearly
>completed a Quick-Build RV-10, regard times to completion for each of
>the sub-kits (empecone, wings, etc). Did you try to optimize for lowest
>cost of fastest build time? What major obstacles did you hit? What
>words of advice/encouragement would you offer?
>
>Its getting depressing to see the tail parts hanging there every time I
>pull into the garage. Its time for me to either get my you-know-what in
>gear or admit to myself that this isn't going to happen and sell the
>tail kit.
>
>Replies directly to this email _lr_@yahoo.com are welcome.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Larry Rachman
>ISP
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Battery Cable Routing |
Unless one runs the battery cable in the tunnel, it looks like there is no
place to hide it between the front spar and the firewall. Does anyone have a
picture of what their method of attaching the cable in this area looks like?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Battery Cable Routing |
Speaking of diodes for contactors, I know I read about protecting trim relays from
the same, besides a solid state solution, I've already built the relay terminal
boards, does anyone have a recommendation for diode rectifiers for trim
relays? 1 amp, 50 v (can you oversize the amps?) is my guess and my plan unless
anyone has different ideas. I know I could have purchased the trim relay decks
from a vendor but these were fun to assemble and I saved $3.00. :)
I've heard that you don't need them as well but that goes against all my info I
have found to date
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Build times - time to get restarted? |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr(at)hughes.net> |
I work heat better that cold!!!! Big hanger can't heat well. I have a big water
fan!!!! You know with the water trickling down the back grates. Drops the temp
15 degrees up to 30 feet in front of it. I have worked all summer in 100+ temps
with no problem!!!!
Back to the kit!! How do you eat an elephant?????
One bite at a time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I to went through depressed times. Everyone will!!!!!
Jim
383
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56714#56714
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Battery Cable Routing |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Albert,
Typical routing from the tailcone is under the baggage floor panels (and
along the right side baggage wall behind the panel) and then along the
side walls in the cabin area. The side walls have interior panels that
screw on all the way to the F-1024 bulkheads. The instrument panel is
actually aft of the F-1002 bulkheads so there's only a short span where
they are exposed. If you purchase the electrical kit from Van's they
provide you with a panel that screws onto the longeron in this area to
cover wiring.
For the tunnel area the wiring kit shows the wiring for the fuel flow
and pump running aft and then over to the side using routing similar to
the brake and fuel lines. Flap motor wiring runs aft to the flap torque
tube area and then to the side.
Alternatively, Flightline Interiors' kit provides finished side panels
all the way to the F-1002 bulkheads.
http://my.execpc.com/~erdmannb/rv10.html
This may be true of other providers as well, but wouldn't be difficult
to make.
I've attached a couple of manual pages for reference in case there's a
specific area in question.
Bob #40105
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert
Gardner
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Battery Cable Routing
Unless one runs the battery cable in the tunnel, it looks like there is
no
place to hide it between the front spar and the firewall. Does anyone
have a
picture of what their method of attaching the cable in this area looks
like?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Build times - time to get restarted? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I have had numerous interruptions of weeks at a time due to work related
travel. Frequently it's hard to get restarted but picking a specific
task to work makes getting your arms around it a lot easier. I have
done my plane using slow build versions of the kits. I was too
optimistic for timing on both the wing and fuselage kits - they sat
around for weeks/months before I completed the preceding kit and was
ready to move on.
One thing that is HUGE motivation is a ride in a friends' RV - check out
your local EAA chapter and I'm sure you'll find somebody willing to take
you up.
Bob #40105
Back to engine baffling after a few week break for OSH and work
travel...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
| Subject: | OT: IFR Training With Six-Pack or G1000? |
Soliciting a few opinions from list members...
I recently completed my BFR after a long time off flying. I had the
fortunate opportunity to get a G1000 signoff (school requires 3 hours
training to rent a G1000 equipped plane) at the same time. I really
enjoyed flying behind the G1000 in a 2006 air conditioned 172SP. :) It
was my first EFIS experience.
While I am in buildus interuptus mode I am planning on getting my IFR
ticket. My question to the list is should I go through this with the
G1000 or the standard six-pack? The flight sim which the school uses
has the standard six-pack. And the King DVDs are geared around that
also. But, I can also get the King G1000 DVDs to fill in the gaps.
Has anyone on the list gone through their IFR training with a G1000 that
can offer up advice? How does the checkride differ as far as the
Examiner is concerned? Is it easier to just complete the IFR training
with the six-pack, and then go through the procedures afterward with the
G1000?
One of the reasons I'd like to do it via the G1000 is because the G1000
planes available for rental have air conditioning also, which is a nice
feature here in Phoenix, AZ. :)
One thing that I realize is that I'm fortunate to have a G1000 plane
available as I'm planning on having a glass panel in my -10. I imagine
that time behind a G1000 will help me either way if I go with a Chelton
for example.
Thanks,
-Sean #40303 (plane in IL, me in AZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Jacks (Was Serious Front Axle...) |
Bob,
At the hangar, I use a scissors jack. It compresses to less than 4
inches and will slip under the nose gear. I made a couple split pipe
"jack heads" with a pin on the bottom for the main gear. Drilled a hole
in the plate on top of the scissors jack for the jack head pin. This is
simple and works great when pants and main fairings are removed. The
scissors jack weights a lot so looking for a lighter weight solution to
carry in the plane. What have others done?
Roger
40291
----- Original Message -----
From: bcondrey<mailto:bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 7:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Serious Front Axle Maintenance Issue on the
RV-10
>
I just talked w/Tom at Van's and his suggestion is to check spacing
with a feeler gauge and adjust the axle accordingly. He also said that
behavior would be possibly be very different with the wheel off the
ground than with full weight on it.
I guess I'll be measuring and adjusting the front axle length
tonight...
On related note - what's the best way to jack up the plane for nose
wheel work? I've been using my engine hoist but assume there's another
option for "in the field" work.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56657#56657
atronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56657#56657>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
igator?RV10-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OT: IFR Training With Six-Pack or G1000? |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Sean
I had the same questions when I started to get my IFR cert. I talked
long and hard with several instructors, and while they all told me the
same thing, the glass panel, GPS moving map, EFIS, and HITS that I will
have in the RV10 will make it as easy as possible to fly IFR, but I
still need to be able to fly the needles, in case I am in someone else's
plane, or I chose to sell the 10 and do something else. They told me it
is very easy to transition from standard gauges to glass, but very
difficult to transition from glass back to standard, if you never
learned it that way.
So long story short, I do not think glass or GPS is going away, I made
the decision to learn the harder way and transition to glass when the 10
was done. Besides, I bought a cheap Cherokee 140 to get my ticket in and
will sell it to get my engine when I am done. Rather than renting a high
end plane, buy a cheap, traditional IFR trainer, get your ticket, sell
it, and with the money you save you can put air in the 10.
Just my .02
Dan
RV10E (N289DT)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sean Stephens
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 5:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OT: IFR Training With Six-Pack or G1000?
Soliciting a few opinions from list members...
I recently completed my BFR after a long time off flying. I had the
fortunate opportunity to get a G1000 signoff (school requires 3 hours
training to rent a G1000 equipped plane) at the same time. I really
enjoyed flying behind the G1000 in a 2006 air conditioned 172SP. :) It
was my first EFIS experience.
While I am in buildus interuptus mode I am planning on getting my IFR
ticket. My question to the list is should I go through this with the
G1000 or the standard six-pack? The flight sim which the school uses
has the standard six-pack. And the King DVDs are geared around that
also. But, I can also get the King G1000 DVDs to fill in the gaps.
Has anyone on the list gone through their IFR training with a G1000 that
can offer up advice? How does the checkride differ as far as the
Examiner is concerned? Is it easier to just complete the IFR training
with the six-pack, and then go through the procedures afterward with the
G1000?
One of the reasons I'd like to do it via the G1000 is because the G1000
planes available for rental have air conditioning also, which is a nice
feature here in Phoenix, AZ. :)
One thing that I realize is that I'm fortunate to have a G1000 plane
available as I'm planning on having a glass panel in my -10. I imagine
that time behind a G1000 will help me either way if I go with a Chelton
for example.
Thanks,
-Sean #40303 (plane in IL, me in AZ)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Can and RV-10 be insured for two-seats only? |
I would love to build an RV-10 but the recent post of insurance costing
approx. $3800 a year for full coverage gave me reason to sit back and
pause..... I'm currently paying approx. $1400 p/year for the RV-7A with
full coverage.
Like most, I am sure I would only fly with more than one-passenger rarely
(if at all...). I like the RV-10 for it's cross-country capability and
larger cabin. Therefore, for my type of flying (95% cross-country solo
and/or maybe one passenger...), can an RV-10 be insured for two seats only?
If so, what kind of rates have been quoted with a $100-125K hull value and
the normal $1 million dollar liability policy?
My girlfriend would like to be able to take three suitcases full of shoes so
we really don't have space for passengers! :-)
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A N174JL 220 hrs.
www.jacklockamy.com
jacklockamy(at)verizon.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OT: IFR Training With Six-Pack or G1000? |
Tim Dawson-Townsend wrote:
> a.) Training on a G1000 or Avidyne Entegra would include "partial panel" work
using the conventional "steam gauge" backup instruments.
Yep, but not likely to the same level of competence, because it will be
using a totally different set of instruments than what they fly every
day, requiring much bigger adjustment.
> b.) Using a G1000 or Avidyne Entegra, etc, does not mean radio navigation is
abandoned for GPS. Both systems feature VOR, LOC, and ILS capability, in addition
to RNAV (GPS).
Yes, but no NDB. ;-) Also, minimal use of unaided radio navigation...how
well do they track without a moving map?
> c.) In a parallel vein, training or lots of practice in effectively using your
autopilot of choice in conjunction with whatever system of six-pack/EFIS/GPS/Nav
you have is also important . . .
Traditional training planes are not too likely to have working
autopilots, especially the Cessnas of the late '70s. Better to learn to
handle it all hand flying before you let Otto do it all.
> d). Like it or not, there are folks entering the training stream that are never
going to fly without glass (except maybe VFR).
Also true, and they will have some hard lessons before the kinks are
ironed out. Has happened with every advance in technology.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EFDsteve(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GM LS2 Engine - opinions |
I agree in concept that the LS2 engine might make a good airplane engine,
but in talking to someone who did some extensive research on this topic, when
fitted with the PSRU, the weight and balance become unworkable on the RV-10.
I haven't seen the numbers, though.
If you find a way to make this conversion work, please let us know!
Steve Weinstock
40230
In a message dated 8/22/2006 9:16:26 P.M. Central Standard Time,
jdalton77(at)comcast.net writes:
I'm a long way from engine selection, but I've been hearing a lot of good
commentary on the GM LS2 engine (used in the 2005 Corvette). The ones I have
seen on aircraft have been derated to a maximum of 4500 RPM (redline is over
6500 RPM) limiting the HP to 300HP.
The engine new is less than $6k. Of course, all the mods will add up to
closer to $20k altogether.
Opinions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Manifold pressure hole |
I went to drill the hole in the firewall for the manifold pressure fitti
ng............it says to drill a 3/8" hole. The fitting does NOT go thr
ough the hole because it is too small. What am I not doing right? It a
ppears to me the hole needs to be drilled to 7/16" for the fitting to go
through. Is it a typo in the manual?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449
________________________________________________________________________
I went to drill the hole in the firewall for the manifold press
ure fitting............it says to drill a 3/8" hole. The fitting d
oes NOT go through the hole because it is too small. What am I not
doing right? It appears to me the hole needs to be drilled to 7/1
6" for the fitting to go through. Is it a typo in the manual?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449
______________________
__________________________________________________
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