RV10-Archive.digest.vol-bm
September 07, 2006 - September 26, 2006
> Subject: RV10-List: Build times - time to get restarted?
>
>
> I was one of the first to buy a tail kit (#22), but life intruded and
> after
> some initial progress the kid has been untouched for the last 2 years.
I'm
> now getting the itch to get hack into the project, but I'm wonder if
I've
> bit off more than I can chew.
>
> I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has completed, or nearly
> completed a Quick-Build RV-10, regard times to completion for each of
the
> sub-kits (empecone, wings, etc). Did you try to optimize for lowest
cost
> of
> fastest build time? What major obstacles did you hit? What words of
> advice/encouragement would you offer?
>
> Its getting depressing to see the tail parts hanging there every time
I
> pull
> into the garage. Its time for me to either get my you-know-what in
gear or
> admit to myself that this isn't going to happen and sell the tail kit.
>
> Replies directly to this email _lr_@yahoo.com are welcome.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Larry Rachman
> ISP
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi all, does some body replace the aluminum heat box provide with the kit with
an Stain. steel one,if so please can you share manuf. and model and how you like
it.
Thanks, Hugo #40456
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
This is my washer wrench made from a popsicle stick. It may not be an
original idea but it works.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gommone7(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Washer Wrench |
Thank you Albert,Hugo
>
> From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
> Date: 2006/09/07 Thu PM 01:36:25 EDT
> To:
> Subject: RV10-List: Washer Wrench
>
>
> This is my washer wrench made from a popsicle stick. It may not be an
> original idea but it works.
> Albert Gardner
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
I saw this vendor, EPM.VA Corp., at OSH2006 that had SS heater boxes.
I'm not to that stage yet, but here's a link to there webpage:
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html
John
#40262
Hi all, does some body replace the aluminum heat box provide with the
kit with an Stain. steel one,if so please can you share manuf. and model
and how you like it.
Thanks, Hugo #40456
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Dick Waters engine |
anyone considering a Dick Waters engine should contact me first!!!
cjhukill(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I bought a set from EPM at Oshkosh, they are the same units that Avery sells.
I don't have any installation pix handy but they form & fit identical to the aluminum
units supplied in the kit.
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60266#60266
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PJ Seipel <seipel(at)seznam.cz> |
| Subject: | Instrument tilt? |
*Might be a dumb question, but the instrument panel has a 7.3 degree
tilt. Does that mean I should buy the instruments advertised with 8
degree tilt?
Thanks,
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Dick Waters engine |
Please relate your info in the forum. Having one of his engines in hand
along with a pleasant process definitely needs the other side of the coin.
He said to call him prior to engine run for a phone walk-through. The
engine is also unconditionally guaranteed for one year from first run on the
airplane.
Rob Wright
#392
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dick Waters engine
anyone considering a Dick Waters engine should contact me first!!!
cjhukill(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
The person I will use, Glo Custom Paint, has only painted one 10 and
that is Russ's but he's done a ton of RV's. I'm in the queue at $8,000.
Based on the planes I've seen Grady paint, which is quite a few, he
really does excellent work.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Just got an email from www.skygeek.com. They are selling a Superior oil
quick drain for $15. It is the Curtiss valve for IO540s. FAA PMA
approved and compares to the SAF-DRAIN version for $50.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
Wayne,
Is he priming for you also? $8k seems high if you've already primed and
there is no paint removal like an older plane getting a paint job. Will
you be disassembling and re-assembling the control surfaces? If yes,
then it really seems high.
I know he does good work though.
----- Original Message -----
From: Wayne Edgerton
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
The person I will use, Glo Custom Paint, has only painted one 10 and
that is Russ's but he's done a ton of RV's. I'm in the queue at $8,000.
Based on the planes I've seen Grady paint, which is quite a few, he
really does excellent work.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Window overspray |
| From: | "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com> |
I had some overspray on my windows as well and used the "Scratch Off"
kit that Van's sells. I used the last two steps and it cleaned up very
nicely. In fact it looks like that section is more brilliant than the
rest. I tried water and Cee Bailey's makes a cleaner for these windows
but none of it worked.
Also, I had a small section where my DA sander hit the back window and
the scratch kit fixed it perfectly. So don't sweat it if you make a
little scratch while building or get some overspray. It will clean up.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of KiloPapa
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Window overspray
Read the reply from John Cox in this thread before you use any solvents:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=5024
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
----- Original Message -----
From: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Window overspray
>
> Hi,
>
> A product I had recommended to me by an A&P was DuPont's PrepSol ("5
> Star" brand has the similar product called Wax and Grease Remover.) It
> should be available in the local car paint shop in quarts and gallons.
I
> used it on a Cessna to clean some overspray off and it worked well
> without harming the Plexiglas. I have not used it on Van's windows so
if
> you go this way try it on a scrap first.
>
> Vern (#40324 wings)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | L Aune <lcaune(at)cablelan.net> |
| Subject: | Static Ports / Airspeed Error |
I purchased two static ports from Aircraft Spruce and found them to
be very thick. At least .080" . This seemed to be way too much so I
had them machined down to .035. which looks to be more like
Beeechcraft or others I have seen. Not flying yet so no detailed
specifications on the install yet. I may put a small bead of Proseal
around them.
Len
Fitting doors
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Seat adjustment lever |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr(at)hughes.net> |
This seat adjustment lever is great. Just bought if from Greg, I was to busy trying
to finish to build one myself. His is well made and a good design. So much
better that having to reach beside the seat and pull the lever. Here is his
website, check it out for yourself.
http://www.nwacaptain.com/
Blue Skies
Jim
40383
DAR next saturday (I hope)!!!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60549#60549
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all the
disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I think
he has a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know of one
10 builder who paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's
charging around $6,000 for the RV6's and 8's.
I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent work
and that's Grady.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flywheel to cowling front distance |
Hello Ted,
I will have the Aero Composite three blade but I'm guessing that would
be about the same as the MT for mounting purposes? We used a 1/8"
spacer. I also don't have my propeller yet but Aero Composite sent me a
mount plate to use so I can fit the cowling. Maybe MT can furnish you
one also?
I was just working on it yesterday and the top cowling went on fairly
quickly, I had help.
I've attached a few photo's for you to see what we've done thus far. I'm
installing cam locks and will have them spaced at around 3".
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
I painted my RV-8A - paint alone cost $2500 (I did some hard colors). $6000
for someone to do everything sounds like a really good deal.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (270 hrs)
RV-10 (tail cone)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all the
disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I think he
has a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know of one 10
builder who paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's charging
around $6,000 for the RV6's and 8's.
I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent work and
that's Grady.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Heat selector valve |
I concur completely that Don at Aviacomp is the man to see about
anything for your heating system. At my request, he redesigned the T
that goes in the forward tunnel to direct the heat to the forward
footwell areas, to include a selector valve. It is a drop in replacement
for the original, and with the use of a cable, I can now mix the forward
heat to either side, a must have requirement for my cold blooded other
half, flying partner. It was a true pleasure working with Don on this
very simple, yet useful mod, that Vans should offer in their accessory
catalog. If you need to see a picture, email me cjhukill(at)cox.net
Chris Hukill
fitting the plastic wheelpants, really out of sequence
(cannot believe people actually build whole airplanes out of that stuff!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
That is the reason why Grady O'Neal at GLO Custom Paint is booked up
through July of 2007. I know because an RV-8 I am helping finished up
just booked his paint date and the earliest he could get with Grady was
July 2007!!!!
If you want the best at a reasonable price you really have to plan
ahead. I booked my paint date (currently in Grady's paint booth)
January of 2006. Grady requires a 10% deposit to hold a paint date.
Pictures should be posted by next week.
Russ Daves
N710RV (RV-10 Flying)
----- Original Message -----
From: Carl Froehlich
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
I painted my RV-8A - paint alone cost $2500 (I did some hard colors).
$6000 for someone to do everything sounds like a really good deal.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (270 hrs)
RV-10 (tail cone)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all
the disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I
think he has a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know
of one 10 builder who paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's
charging around $6,000 for the RV6's and 8's.
I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent
work and that's Grady.
Wayne Edgerton #40336
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I looked at
the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal so
all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the now
messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became wall
art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before, of the 6
8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20 minute drive
from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but no down time or
expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus (sp?) I
cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from Vans.
Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend bent at
about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they sent another
one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't even bother to wait
until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just said, "Oh man, I'd better
send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing things
with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am wondering
what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of J-channel waiting
on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the long
pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net> |
| Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
What page of the plans is the cutting of these pieces on so I can b
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I
looked at the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look
right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal
so all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the
now messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became
wall art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before,
of the 6 8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20
minute drive from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but
no down time or expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus
(sp?) I cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from
Vans. Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend
bent at about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they
sent another one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't
even bother to wait until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just
said, "Oh man, I'd better send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing
things with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am
wondering what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of
J-channel waiting on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the
long pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net> |
| Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
What page of the plans are the cutting of the J-Channels on so I don't
make the same mistake.
Rob Hunter
Elevator 40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I
looked at the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look
right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal
so all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the
now messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became
wall art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before,
of the 6 8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20
minute drive from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but
no down time or expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus
(sp?) I cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from
Vans. Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend
bent at about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they
sent another one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't
even bother to wait until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just
said, "Oh man, I'd better send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing
things with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am
wondering what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of
J-channel waiting on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the
long pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
Where is Grady located? Jim
>
> From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2006/09/09 Sat PM 05:00:03 EDT
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
>
> That is the reason why Grady O'Neal at GLO Custom Paint is booked up through
July of 2007. I know because an RV-8 I am helping finished up just booked his
paint date and the earliest he could get with Grady was July 2007!!!!
>
> If you want the best at a reasonable price you really have to plan ahead. I
booked my paint date (currently in Grady's paint booth) January of 2006. Grady
requires a 10% deposit to hold a paint date.
>
> Pictures should be posted by next week.
>
> Russ Daves
> N710RV (RV-10 Flying)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Carl Froehlich
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:32 AM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
>
>
> I painted my RV-8A - paint alone cost $2500 (I did some hard colors). $6000
for someone to do everything sounds like a really good deal.
>
> Carl Froehlich
> RV-8A (270 hrs)
> RV-10 (tail cone)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 7:31 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted?
>
>
> I deliver the plane to him with no primer and walk away. He does all the
disassembling and reassembling. I check around a little bit and I think he has
a fair price for the quality of work that he does. I know of one 10 builder who
paid $14,000 for his paint job, ouch. I think he's charging around $6,000 for
the RV6's and 8's.
>
> I just want someone to paint my plane that I know does excellent work and
that's Grady.
>
> Wayne Edgerton #40336
>
>
> s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
Section 10 Page 5
http://www.myrv10.com/Plans/RV10_Plans_sec10-pg05.html
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Hunter
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
What page of the plans are the cutting of the J-Channels on so I don't
make the same mistake.
Rob Hunter
Elevator 40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 4:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
I did something similar as well with the tailcone J-Channel but x 6. I
trimmed all 12 to length properly with no problems but didn't look that
carefully at the plans to "Trim the ends at a 45 deg angle as shown in
figure 2". After I finished cutting the angle on the last of 12 I
looked at the one in my hand and said... "Huh? That doesn't look
right!"
Sure enough I cut the 45 not from the vertical edge but the horizontal
so all of them came to a point at the corner. When I squared off the
now messed up edges the 6 long ones were now too short.
The messed up 93"ers became the 6 shorter ones. All the others became
wall art. I robbed the wing kit, which I just picked up the day before,
of the 6 8' J-Channel in it. Key word is "PICKED UP". Van's is a 20
minute drive from my place. Still soaked me for $13.75 x 6 = $82.50 but
no down time or expensive freight snafu's.
So the lesson learned is of course read the plans more carefully before
cutting anything (or move closer to Van's).
-Ben
#40579
Tailcone
(Darn there are a lot of rivets! Should be done this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Douglas
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut"
Yeah, I'm in a similar boat with a tailcone J-Channel. Like a doofus
(sp?) I cut one of the 93"ers too short and had to order a new one from
Vans. Naturally it shows up the Friday before a long labor day weekend
bent at about 35 degrees. I called vans the following week and they
sent another one which arrived today so badly bent the driver didn't
even bother to wait until I opened it. Looking at the tube he just
said, "Oh man, I'd better send this back."
Turns out that even PVC pipe is not enough to protect parts from the
shipping people, who apparently spend a good deal of time smashing
things with hammers.
Now I'm headed off to Reno (Dago Red is running this year!) and am
wondering what the chances are that I'll find a decent 8' length of
J-channel waiting on my porch when I get back.
Anyway, let that be a lesson to the guys/girls just starting. Cut the
long pieces first!!
-Brian
#40497
N211BD
Iowa City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint $$Build times - time to get restarted? |
He's located in Roanoke, TX, which is just a little bit north and west
of the DFW airport.
Here is a web address for Northwest Regional where Grady is located.
http://www.nwratx.org/
Wayne Edgerton #40336
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Parking Brake Bracket fro Matco Valve |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
Below are pics of my parking brake valve setup for the Matco Parking Brake valve.
The bracket uses the existing holes in the firewall except for the middle
2 which are filled.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=60787#60787
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05851_107.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05863_609.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05882_138.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05891_551.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05894_348.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05895_815.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Compressor Recommendation |
Hi
I am starting to set up an area in my garage that I can use as a
workshop.
The only power I have in the garage is a single 15 amp circuit. This
powers
a fridge, a freezer as well as lights, power receptacles and the garage
door
opener.
I have a single breaker slot open on my power panel and plan to run an
additional circuit. Assuming I run all my intermittent use tools (band
saw /
drill press) off the new circuit, will the new 15 AMP 110V circuit be
sufficient for a compressor as well. If so can anyone recommend an
appropriate compressor given that I will not be painting? I have read
about
the Husky VT6315 from Home Depot on the list, but am wondering if this
is
overkill for my needs. I have also read that some 15 amp compressors
can
cause breaker trips.
Any guidance most welcome.
Les
RV10 wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation |
Les,
A single 15A circuit will handle a good compressor. I have a single
15A circuit for the compressor I have, which I bought 10 years ago; Its
a 20 Gal. "5 HP" Coleman Black Max oil lubed, belt driven compressor
which then cost me about $500; Prices are very similar today.
I put "5HP" in quotes since its not really 5HP.. The marketing folks did
their spin on it. The 5HP is really the power produced at the moment of
the motor stalling. If it were really 5HP... Lets see: 5HP = 3,728
Watts divided by 115v equals 32.4 AMPS !!!
As for breaker trips, most can be avoided by not using undersized wire
from your breaker panel, and also not using any extension cord.
Watch out for similar "marketing" information when looking for a compressor.
-Jim 40384
Les Kearney wrote:
> Hi
>
>
>
> I am starting to set up an area in my garage that I can use as a
> workshop. The only power I have in the garage is a single 15 amp
> circuit. This powers a fridge, a freezer as well as lights, power
> receptacles and the garage door opener.
>
>
>
> I have a single breaker slot open on my power panel and plan to run an
> additional circuit. Assuming I run all my intermittent use tools (band
> saw / drill press) off the new circuit, will the new 15 AMP 110V
> circuit be sufficient for a compressor as well. If so can anyone
> recommend an appropriate compressor given that I _will not_ be
> painting? I have read about the Husky VT6315 from Home Depot on the
> list, but am wondering if this is overkill for my needs. I have also
> read that some 15 amp compressors can cause breaker trips.
>
>
>
> Any guidance most welcome.
>
>
>
> Les
>
> RV10 wannabe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation |
I bought one from Harbor Freight for $149 that is a 21 Gallon upright with
3HP motor. It's pretty quiet and has worked for me for the past 9 months.
It handles riveting tasks with no problem. If I'm drilling a lot of think
aluminum (like the longerons) it does kick on quite a bit, but it keeps up.
The die grinder slows down some if I'm using a lot. That said, like
everything from Harbor Freight,it's not the greatest quality but it works
just fine (I do love my pop rivet puller from them though).
I thought about investing in a higher quality compressor since I was going
to use it all the time, but I chose to put my money into a great Sioux
drill, two ATS Rivet guns, and Main Squeeze rivet squeezer from Cleveland..
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hein" <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation
>
> Les,
> A single 15A circuit will handle a good compressor. I have a single 15A
> circuit for the compressor I have, which I bought 10 years ago; Its a 20
> Gal. "5 HP" Coleman Black Max oil lubed, belt driven compressor which then
> cost me about $500; Prices are very similar today.
>
> I put "5HP" in quotes since its not really 5HP.. The marketing folks did
> their spin on it. The 5HP is really the power produced at the moment of
> the motor stalling. If it were really 5HP... Lets see: 5HP = 3,728 Watts
> divided by 115v equals 32.4 AMPS !!!
>
> As for breaker trips, most can be avoided by not using undersized wire
> from your breaker panel, and also not using any extension cord.
>
> Watch out for similar "marketing" information when looking for a
> compressor.
>
> -Jim 40384
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>>
>> I am starting to set up an area in my garage that I can use as a
>> workshop. The only power I have in the garage is a single 15 amp circuit.
>> This powers a fridge, a freezer as well as lights, power receptacles and
>> the garage door opener.
>>
>>
>> I have a single breaker slot open on my power panel and plan to run an
>> additional circuit. Assuming I run all my intermittent use tools (band
>> saw / drill press) off the new circuit, will the new 15 AMP 110V circuit
>> be sufficient for a compressor as well. If so can anyone recommend an
>> appropriate compressor given that I _will not_ be painting? I have read
>> about the Husky VT6315 from Home Depot on the list, but am wondering if
>> this is overkill for my needs. I have also read that some 15 amp
>> compressors can cause breaker trips.
>>
>>
>> Any guidance most welcome.
>>
>>
>> Les
>>
>> RV10 wannabe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>*
>>
>>
>>*
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | 113" fuse longeron angle - mark it "don't cut" |
You can splice J-channel with no problem. Butt 2 pieces together and overlap
a splice strip about 5 rivet on each side. Treat it as a repair and use the
FAA Acceptable Methods book.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Les Kearney wrote:
> about the Husky VT6315 from Home Depot on the list, but am wondering if
Hi Les,
FWIW this is the unit I am using. I am running it off a single 15A
circuit with no troubles. I can run a few other small items off the
same circuit at the same time, but nothing much bigger without nuisance
trips. The compressor itself has been great running drills, cut-off
tool, etc. It is also fairly quiet, as compressors go. I'm working in
an attached garage, and with the door closed you can hardly hear the
compressor in the house. I highly recommend it.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Compressor Recommendation |
Hi Everyone
Many thanks for all the informative replies. Based on my review of the
archives and the comments received, I will go with the Husky.
Cheers
Les
RV10 Wannabe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation
Les Kearney wrote:
> about the Husky VT6315 from Home Depot on the list, but am wondering if
Hi Les,
FWIW this is the unit I am using. I am running it off a single 15A
circuit with no troubles. I can run a few other small items off the
same circuit at the same time, but nothing much bigger without nuisance
trips. The compressor itself has been great running drills, cut-off
tool, etc. It is also fairly quiet, as compressors go. I'm working in
an attached garage, and with the door closed you can hardly hear the
compressor in the house. I highly recommend it.
-Dj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Dick Waters engine |
I agree, I bought mine from him and it was exactly as specified. I feel
like I practically stole it from him it was such a good deal. I
immediately
had the key components sent in and checked all were as specified. It
sat in
parts for about two years then was rebuilt and it runs smoother than any
engine I have experience with. Now its sitting in the corner begging me
to
work on the airframe :-) Two other local builders bought their engines
from
him and have had nothing bad to say.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:09 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dick Waters engine
Please relate your info in the forum. Having one of his engines in hand
along with a pleasant process definitely needs the other side of the
coin.
He said to call him prior to engine run for a phone walk-through. The
engine is also unconditionally guaranteed for one year from first run on
the
airplane.
Rob Wright
#392
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 6:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dick Waters engine
anyone considering a Dick Waters engine should contact me first!!!
cjhukill(at)cox.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation |
interestly Homedepot has the VT6315 as 5 HP as well, it's interesting
because the CH VT6315 in the Campbell Hausfeld website states "2HP" for the
compressor, they are the same compressor, I guess putting the "Husky" label
on the compressor gives it a 3HP boost!
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Hein" <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 10, 2006 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation
>
> Les,
> A single 15A circuit will handle a good compressor. I have a single 15A
> circuit for the compressor I have, which I bought 10 years ago; Its a 20
> Gal. "5 HP" Coleman Black Max oil lubed, belt driven compressor which then
> cost me about $500; Prices are very similar today.
>
> I put "5HP" in quotes since its not really 5HP.. The marketing folks did
> their spin on it. The 5HP is really the power produced at the moment of
> the motor stalling. If it were really 5HP... Lets see: 5HP = 3,728 Watts
> divided by 115v equals 32.4 AMPS !!!
>
> As for breaker trips, most can be avoided by not using undersized wire
> from your breaker panel, and also not using any extension cord.
>
> Watch out for similar "marketing" information when looking for a
> compressor.
>
> -Jim 40384
>
> Les Kearney wrote:
>
>> Hi
>>
>>
>> I am starting to set up an area in my garage that I can use as a
>> workshop. The only power I have in the garage is a single 15 amp circuit.
>> This powers a fridge, a freezer as well as lights, power receptacles and
>> the garage door opener.
>>
>>
>> I have a single breaker slot open on my power panel and plan to run an
>> additional circuit. Assuming I run all my intermittent use tools (band
>> saw / drill press) off the new circuit, will the new 15 AMP 110V circuit
>> be sufficient for a compressor as well. If so can anyone recommend an
>> appropriate compressor given that I _will not_ be painting? I have read
>> about the Husky VT6315 from Home Depot on the list, but am wondering if
>> this is overkill for my needs. I have also read that some 15 amp
>> compressors can cause breaker trips.
>>
>>
>> Any guidance most welcome.
>>
>>
>> Les
>>
>> RV10 wannabe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>*
>>
>>
>>*
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
| Subject: | Compressor Recommentation |
Eaton Compressor makes a quality and capable compressor.
Here is the link:
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/504747.htm
Kevin
40494
empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | Compressor Recommentation |
Sure looks like they have the right design philosophy. Are you using one?
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
kilopapa(at)antelecom.net
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 1:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommentation
Eaton Compressor makes a quality and capable compressor.
Here is the link:
http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/504747.htm
Kevin
40494
empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
Hi
Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil free
Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
Noise 82dba
Tank 26 gal
Max Pressure 175 psi
Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
3 year warranty
1.6 running HP motor
Model CPFC2TV3525VP
This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
model in particular)?
Cheers
Les
RV10 Wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
Oil less?
Run away! Run away!
It is pretty loud to boot!
-Jim
Les Kearney wrote:
>
>Hi
>
>Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil free
>Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
>
>Noise 82dba
>Tank 26 gal
>Max Pressure 175 psi
>Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
>3 year warranty
>1.6 running HP motor
>Model CPFC2TV3525VP
>
>This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
>
>Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
>model in particular)?
>
>Cheers
>
>Les
>RV10 Wannabe
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
| Subject: | Compressor Recommentation |
Yes, I bought the 5 HP, 2 Cylinder, 80-Gallon Vertical
model. Performs as described. Heavy duty.
Kevin
40494
empennage
>
>
>Sure looks like they have the right design philosophy. Are
>you using one?
>
>Mike Lauritsen
>Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
>2225 First St.
>Boone, Iowa 50036
>515-432-6794
>mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>kilopapa(at)antelecom.net
>Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 1:41 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommentation
>
>
>Eaton Compressor makes a quality and capable compressor.
>Here is the link:
>
>http://www.eatoncompressor.com/page/page/504747.htm
>
>Kevin
>40494
>empennage
>
>
>==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com> |
| Subject: | Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
That Husky is a great unit - I'd go for that one.
John Testement
jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com
40321
Richmond, VA
Finish kit - wheel fairings, cowl prep
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 6:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
Hi
Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil free
Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
Noise 82dba
Tank 26 gal
Max Pressure 175 psi
Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
3 year warranty
1.6 running HP motor
Model CPFC2TV3525VP
This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
model in particular)?
Cheers
Les
RV10 Wannabe
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
same as the Craftsman #00916778000.
Which received the following review
Product Reviews
Overall Rating: 5 5
August 8, 2006
By toolman from Massachusetts
Reliability: 5 5
Value: 5 5
Performance: 5 5
Durability: 5 5
"It's the absolute best tool i've ever bought in my life.
It run all the air tools."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>
> Hi
>
> Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil free
> Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
>
> Noise 82dba
> Tank 26 gal
> Max Pressure 175 psi
> Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
> 3 year warranty
> 1.6 running HP motor
> Model CPFC2TV3525VP
>
> This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
>
> Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
> model in particular)?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> RV10 Wannabe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
If you absolutely need a vertical than you'll do fine with this but for the
same money, if space allows, I would encourage another Porter-cable- but in
the Craftsman quise the #00919541000,
SCFM Delivery At 40 psi 8.6 SCFM
SCFM Delivery At 90 psi 6.8 SCFM
compared to your choice
SCFM Delivery At 40 psi 5.6 SCFM
SCFM Delivery At 90 psi 5.1 SCFM
same price but the best CFM I have found. Just something to consider.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 3:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>
> Hi
>
> Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil free
> Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
>
> Noise 82dba
> Tank 26 gal
> Max Pressure 175 psi
> Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
> 3 year warranty
> 1.6 running HP motor
> Model CPFC2TV3525VP
>
> This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
>
> Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
> model in particular)?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
> RV10 Wannabe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
Is anybody building an aircraft? The last 50+ emails have been the same
compressor subject.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 5:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>
> If you absolutely need a vertical than you'll do fine with this but for
> the same money, if space allows, I would encourage another Porter-cable-
> but in the Craftsman quise the #00919541000,
>
> SCFM Delivery At 40 psi 8.6 SCFM
> SCFM Delivery At 90 psi 6.8 SCFM
>
> compared to your choice
> SCFM Delivery At 40 psi 5.6 SCFM
> SCFM Delivery At 90 psi 5.1 SCFM
>
> same price but the best CFM I have found. Just something to consider.
>
> Pascal
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 3:53 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>
>
>>
>> Hi
>>
>> Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil free
>> Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
>>
>> Noise 82dba
>> Tank 26 gal
>> Max Pressure 175 psi
>> Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
>> 3 year warranty
>> 1.6 running HP motor
>> Model CPFC2TV3525VP
>>
>> This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
>> model in particular)?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>> RV10 Wannabe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
yes, mostly using the compressors to do so ;-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>
> Is anybody building an aircraft? The last 50+ emails have been the same
> compressor subject.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 5:23 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>
>
>>
>> If you absolutely need a vertical than you'll do fine with this but for
>> the same money, if space allows, I would encourage another Porter-cable-
>> but in the Craftsman quise the #00919541000,
>>
>> SCFM Delivery At 40 psi 8.6 SCFM
>> SCFM Delivery At 90 psi 6.8 SCFM
>>
>> compared to your choice
>> SCFM Delivery At 40 psi 5.6 SCFM
>> SCFM Delivery At 90 psi 5.1 SCFM
>>
>> same price but the best CFM I have found. Just something to consider.
>>
>> Pascal
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
>> To:
>> Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 3:53 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil
>>> free
>>> Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
>>>
>>> Noise 82dba
>>> Tank 26 gal
>>> Max Pressure 175 psi
>>> Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
>>> 3 year warranty
>>> 1.6 running HP motor
>>> Model CPFC2TV3525VP
>>>
>>> This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
>>> model in particular)?
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Les
>>> RV10 Wannabe
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Compressor Recommendation - Redux |
It's obvious that all the problems in the construction of the RV-10 have been solved.
Any of you newbies want to ask about shimming up the nose ribs on the VS
& HS or SOMETHING besides hot, compressed air.
Hey....What kinda primer youse guys and gals using?
Rick S.
40185
click click...thats my relays a working!!!
-----Original Message-----
>From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
>Sent: Sep 11, 2006 3:53 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Compressor Recommendation - Redux
>
>
>Hi
>
>Here I was already to get a Husk compressor when I can across an oil free
>Porter Cable compressor with the following specs:
>
>Noise 82dba
>Tank 26 gal
>Max Pressure 175 psi
>Two stage, direct drive, twin cylinder
>3 year warranty
>1.6 running HP motor
>Model CPFC2TV3525VP
>
>This is also a bit cheaper than the Husky VT6315.
>
>Does anyone have experience with Porter Cable products (and perhaps this
>model in particular)?
>
>Cheers
>
>Les
>RV10 Wannabe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
SERFI is coming up October 6-8, www.serfi.org <http://www.serfi.org/> .
I'll be able to make it in the afternoon on Saturday and what I can on
Friday. I may even be able to fly an Army training helicopter over there
for a while and be an impromptu static display.
I'd love to see some RV-10s there; it was great seeing Vic and Carol's last
year. So here's to plenty of planning time to see some of you completed
guys there.
Rob Wright
#392 Wing tips
Prop to be shipped 12 Oct!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fly-in planning |
| From: | "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwadejr(at)hughes.net> |
Rob, we are planning on being there. We should DAR this Saturday or the next. If
flyoff goes well. We will be there.
Jim Wade
40383
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=61143#61143
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Davenport" <ddavenport5(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 tail kit foe sale |
One of the local builders here in the Fayetteville, NC area bought an
RV10 tail kit and finished all the tail feather work, but has decided to
go in another direction, so we now have a tail kit for sale. The
workmanship is very good. One picture is attached. The firm asking price
is $3200,00. That's less than the cost of the kit tiself, much less
getting it shipped to you.
If you are interested, reply off list and I'll send more pictures, and
we can talk from there.
David Davenport
RV-6 N168DD 228 Hours
ddavenport5(at)nc.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Link McGarity <callsign(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor source?
Thanks,
Link McGarity
RV6/N42GF
RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
Wellington, FL (FD38)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DAVE LEIKAM" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
A pneumatic squeezer is a must to have even at the high price. I have three
different yokes, and I use all of them. I got mine from "Plane Tools." I
wouldn't be without it. They dimple very well also.
Dave Leikam
Muskego, WI
#40496
N89DA
Elevators
----- Original Message -----
From: "Link McGarity" <callsign(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 5:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
>
> Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor source?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Link McGarity
> RV6/N42GF
> RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
> Wellington, FL (FD38)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
Link,
I highly recommend that you purchase one of these tools. I purchased
mine from Avery and it has performed beautifully. I purchased a 3" yoke, a
4" yoke that has a narrow tip for tight spots and the longeron yoke. The 3"
yoke stays on the tool most of the time and the longeron yoke comes in
second when it comes to usage. The narrow tip 4" yoke isn't used as much as
the other two but is definitely worth purchasing. I use it for everything. I
even designed an adapter plate that converts it into a large C-frame
dimpler.
Personally, I couldn't imagine building a metal airplane without this
tool.
Dave Hertner
RV-10 C-GVMH #40164
London, Ontario
Canada CYXU
----- Original Message -----
From: "Link McGarity" <callsign(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 6:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
>
> Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor source?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Link McGarity
> RV6/N42GF
> RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
> Wellington, FL (FD38)
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
You betcha!!
It's worth every penny. I have a 4" no-hole, a 3" regular C and a 2.5" Longeron.
If I did it again I would have gone with a 3" no-hole instead of the 4. The
reason being is you can use the adjustable rivet set with the three but not the
4. Oh yeah, get the adjustable ram/rivet set too. Worth it's weight in shims.
Can't say enough about the value of this tool. I used it to complete all my
aluminum work on the RV-10. I don't have a hand squeezer in my collection of tools.
Buyer beware off E-bay only because of the few stories I have heard about
getting bad ones, but they did manage to get the bad ones rebuilt for some savings
over a new one if your into taking that risk.
I picked mine up at http://www.rivettools.com along with their 20 piece "RV" rivet sets. These are the BEST made sets I ever used and it has all the screw dimple dies you will need as well. My dimple dies are still intact (heard of nubs breaking off some) and I found they make cleaner dimples than many of the cheaper versions if you can call $28-30 cheap! The set is $150.
No affiliation with them just great service and the tool is still going strong.
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: Link McGarity <callsign(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Sep 13, 2006 3:08 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
>
>
>Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor source?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Link McGarity
>RV6/N42GF
>RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
>Wellington, FL (FD38)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
| From: | "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com> |
Hi Link,
I purchased a reconditioned one from the Yardstore at www.yardstore.com.
Have two yokes a standard 3" deep one and a 4" thin nose (has no hole in
the yoke just a flat surface for forming the shop head.) From time to
time I wish I had a longeron yoke. Also an adjustable set holder (it
threads in and out to adjust for working thickness) is a nice touch,
compared to the fixed set holders that you add washers under the set for
adjustment. Both will work though. One thing to keep in mind if you look
into the Yardstore is most of their squeezers come with the fixed set
holder. However the adjustable sets holders are available separately
from Cleveland tools as are new squeezers.
Vern (40324 wings)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Link McGarity
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 3:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor
source?
Thanks,
Link McGarity
RV6/N42GF
RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
Wellington, FL (FD38)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Lauritsen - Work" <mike(at)cleavelandtool.com> |
| Subject: | C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
Cleaveland (that's me) sells them at the following link.
https://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/products.asp?dept=52
In the order of most used yokes there is the 3", 2.5" Flange (longeron), and
4" thin nose. People like the 4" thin because you can reach in a little
further with it and still have the thin nose for other tight areas.
Our adjustable set holder will work with all of the yokes where others only
work with the 1" thick base yokes. Ours also has a 32 pitch thread in the
ram so if you switch from a -3.5 to a -4 rivet it is just a half turn. No
measuring needed.
We will match the competitions price as long as it is the exact same item &
quality.
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike(at)cleavelandtool.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
You betcha!!
It's worth every penny. I have a 4" no-hole, a 3" regular C and a 2.5"
Longeron. If I did it again I would have gone with a 3" no-hole instead of
the 4. The reason being is you can use the adjustable rivet set with the
three but not the 4. Oh yeah, get the adjustable ram/rivet set too. Worth
it's weight in shims. Can't say enough about the value of this tool. I used
it to complete all my aluminum work on the RV-10. I don't have a hand
squeezer in my collection of tools. Buyer beware off E-bay only because of
the few stories I have heard about getting bad ones, but they did manage to
get the bad ones rebuilt for some savings over a new one if your into taking
that risk.
I picked mine up at http://www.rivettools.com along with their 20
piece "RV" rivet sets. These are the BEST made sets I ever used and it has
all the screw dimple dies you will need as well. My dimple dies are still
intact (heard of nubs breaking off some) and I found they make cleaner
dimples than many of the cheaper versions if you can call $28-30 cheap! The
set is $150.
No affiliation with them just great service and the tool is still going
strong.
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: Link McGarity <callsign(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Sep 13, 2006 3:08 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
>
>
>Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor source?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Link McGarity
>RV6/N42GF
>RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
>Wellington, FL (FD38)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I had a hand squeezer from Avery, and loved it, and had great results.
Unfortunately for my check book, a close friend went on vacation and
loaned me his pneumatic squeezer from Avery, and I feel in love with it.
He had to pry it out of my hands when he got back. My wife ordered me
one for a present and included several yokes with it, the 4" no hole, a
standard 3", and the longeron yoke. The two I use most are the 4"
no-hole, and the longeron. I have the adjustable set and have used it
with all of the yokes and it works great. I highly recommend Avery, both
for the quality and for their customer service. I bent the adjustable
set, because of something I did, and they replaced it for no charge.
They are also competitive on their pricing, if you find it elsewhere
cheaper, just call them on the phone and they will work with you.
Dan Lloyd
40269
RV10E N289DT (Reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Link McGarity
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 6:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer
Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor
source?
Thanks,
Link McGarity
RV6/N42GF
RV10/N41GF(rsvd)/#40622
Wellington, FL (FD38)
________________________________________________________________________________
The rates have to be that high to finance all the junk mail. Trolling
for suckers.
Fred Williams
40515
Slow build wings. Top skins on.... stall switch in lt side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | C Type Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer |
Absolutely a must have, IMO. Nothing can give a consistently driven rivet
like a pneumatic squeezer with an adjustable set. I use it on every rivet I
can reach. 90% of the time I leave the longeron head in. I also use it for
dimpling of ribs and stingers and anything I can get at. I have a double ram
squeezer thats capable of up to -6 rivets. Its a bit heavy and I wished I
had bought the single ram lighter version. I dont think I've used it on
anything larger than a -4.
Steve
40205
>
> Anybody using one of these? Best size, type of yokes? Tool vendor source?
>
> Thanks,
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 tail kit for sale - Southeastern NY |
After much consideration and soul-searching, I have decided to put my
tail kit (S/N 400022) up for sale. Rudder, VS completed, HS in
progress. Vans-provided documents included. Fasteners are sorted into
chests of plastic drawers. Builder's log sent via email upon request.
Buyer will need to pick this up in Centerport, NY, about 30 miles east
of NYC. $3000.
Interested parties, please contact me via email.
Larry Rachman
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | SportAir RV Workshop Nov 18/19 Watsonville, CA |
Good News! We are scheduled for a SportAir RV workshop, November 18/19, 2006
at AirCrafters in Watsonville, CA. If you would like to attend, please go to
<http://www.sportair.org/> http://www.sportair.org/ to register, or call EAA
at 1-800-967-5746 for more information.
Please note: The Watsonville workshop is not listed on the SportAir web page
as of this morning at 10:30PDT, but I have received confirmation from EAA
that the workshop is planned and will be announced soon.
Thanks to all those who have expressed interest!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Lurker Flies RV-10 |
I have been lurking on the Yahoo and Matronix RV-10 lists for two
years...couldn't bring myself to commit $100K+ without ever flying an
RV.
Yesterday I had the chance to fly N220RV with Mike Seager in the right
seat. I can sum up the experience with what I said to Mike at the end
of the flight...I gotta get me one of these!
I thought perhaps the thousands of other lurkers out there might
appreciate the observations of this ex-lurker.
I am a 300 hour instrument pilot, current but pretty rusty from not
flying much over the past few years. Even so, after an hour with Mike I
felt pretty comfortable in the 10, and the five landings I made were not
bad, certainly better than my average landing in a spam can. One was in
a 12 knot crosswind..."right rudder, right rudder, MORE right rudder".
Hey, I said I was rusty. Other observations:
Lots of power, even with the 210 hp in 220RV. The 260 hp must be a
rocket.
Much faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying...170 mph at
10 gph at 2500 msl was one of the datapoints I remember.
Stick vs. yoke a non-issue after five minutes. My only stick time was
in a super cub.
Stalls at all the flap and power settings were slight nose drops and
slight buffet...non-events actually. No wing drop at all.
220RV has electric pitch and roll trim on the stick coolie hat. You are
going to love electric trim.
Even though I had a few hours in aircraft with steering by differential
braking, this takes some practice to steer precisely.
Landings procedures in the RV-10 are different than spam cans, and 20
knots faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying. Not
harder, just different than you might be used to. I would not advise
flying the RV-10 for the first time without some transition training,
even if you have thousands of hours. This is my opinion with regard to
safety, not insurance requirements, your mileage may vary. Mike Seager
is an excellent source for transition training; his website is
http://www.rvshirtsnmore.com
There were several pilots taking transition training from Mike prior to
first flights. Thank you for taking the time to answer my endless
questions. Also, thanks to John McMahon for setting up the training in
Portland, TN.
This airplane is responsive yet stable, a fast load hauler yet easy to
fly. Fairly roomy inside yet economical. It is hard to believe you can
get all these features in one airplane.
Lastly, demo flights in the RV-10 cost between $100K and $150K,
depending on your engine and panel selections.
Steve Roberts
Alpharetta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed <ed(at)muellerartcover.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurker Flies RV-10 |
Steve,
Was that 170 mph IAS (indicated air speed) or TAS (true airspeed)?
Thanks
Ed
#40525
Steven Roberts wrote:
> I have been lurking on the Yahoo and Matronix RV-10 lists for two
> years...couldn't bring myself to commit $100K+ without ever flying an RV.
>
> Yesterday I had the chance to fly N220RV with Mike Seager in the right
> seat. I can sum up the experience with what I said to Mike at the end
> of the flight...I gotta get me one of these!
>
> I thought perhaps the thousands of other lurkers out there might
> appreciate the observations of this ex-lurker.
>
> I am a 300 hour instrument pilot, current but pretty rusty from not
> flying much over the past few years. Even so, after an hour with Mike
> I felt pretty comfortable in the 10, and the five landings I made were
> not bad, certainly better than my average landing in a spam can. One
> was in a 12 knot crosswind..."right rudder, right rudder, MORE right
> rudder". Hey, I said I was rusty. Other observations:
>
> Lots of power, even with the 210 hp in 220RV. The 260 hp must be a
> rocket.
>
> Much faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying...170 mph
> at 10 gph at 2500 msl was one of the datapoints I remember.
>
> Stick vs. yoke a non-issue after five minutes. My only stick time was
> in a super cub.
>
> Stalls at all the flap and power settings were slight nose drops and
> slight buffet...non-events actually. No wing drop at all.
>
> 220RV has electric pitch and roll trim on the stick coolie hat. You
> are going to love electric trim.
>
> Even though I had a few hours in aircraft with steering by
> differential braking, this takes some practice to steer precisely.
>
> Landings procedures in the RV-10 are different than spam cans, and 20
> knots faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying. Not
> harder, just different than you might be used to. I would not advise
> flying the RV-10 for the first time without some transition training,
> even if you have thousands of hours. This is my opinion with regard
> to safety, not insurance requirements, your mileage may vary. Mike
> Seager is an excellent source for transition training; his website is
> http://www.rvshirtsnmore.com
>
> There were several pilots taking transition training from Mike prior
> to first flights. Thank you for taking the time to answer my endless
> questions. Also, thanks to John McMahon for setting up the training
> in Portland, TN.
>
> This airplane is responsive yet stable, a fast load hauler yet easy to
> fly. Fairly roomy inside yet economical. It is hard to believe you
> can get all these features in one airplane.
>
> Lastly, demo flights in the RV-10 cost between $100K and $150K,
> depending on your engine and panel selections.
>
> Steve Roberts
> Alpharetta, GA
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McMahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Mike Seager Training (1M5) |
For anyone close that needs some time in the RV-10,we have
some slots open on Sat 16th at Portland,Tn (1M5)..
Just give me a call and I will try to get you in!!!!
John McMahon
Home=615-452-8742
Cell=615-336-2340
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Roberts" <swrpilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurker Flies RV-10 |
Ed,
That was 170 mph indicated. I think MP/RPM was around 23-24 squared, and we
were 2500 msl. As I recall Mike said you could lean to 8-9 gph and still
get 165-170 mph at higher altitudes with the four banger. They will run the
Lycoming lean of peak but not the Continental. The 220RV airspeed indicator
is in mph.
Steve
> Steve,
>
> Was that 170 mph IAS (indicated air speed) or TAS (true airspeed)?
>
> Thanks
> Ed
> #40525
>
> Steven Roberts wrote:
>> I have been lurking on the Yahoo and Matronix RV-10 lists for two
>> years...couldn't bring myself to commit $100K+ without ever flying an RV.
>> Yesterday I had the chance to fly N220RV with Mike Seager in the right
>> seat. I can sum up the experience with what I said to Mike at the end of
>> the flight...I gotta get me one of these!
>> I thought perhaps the thousands of other lurkers out there might
>> appreciate the observations of this ex-lurker.
>> I am a 300 hour instrument pilot, current but pretty rusty from not
>> flying much over the past few years. Even so, after an hour with Mike I
>> felt pretty comfortable in the 10, and the five landings I made were not
>> bad, certainly better than my average landing in a spam can. One was in
>> a 12 knot crosswind..."right rudder, right rudder, MORE right rudder".
>> Hey, I said I was rusty. Other observations: Lots of power, even with
>> the 210 hp in 220RV. The 260 hp must be a rocket.
>> Much faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying...170 mph at
>> 10 gph at 2500 msl was one of the datapoints I remember.
>> Stick vs. yoke a non-issue after five minutes. My only stick time was
>> in a super cub.
>> Stalls at all the flap and power settings were slight nose drops and
>> slight buffet...non-events actually. No wing drop at all. 220RV has
>> electric pitch and roll trim on the stick coolie hat. You are going to
>> love electric trim.
>> Even though I had a few hours in aircraft with steering by differential
>> braking, this takes some practice to steer precisely.
>> Landings procedures in the RV-10 are different than spam cans, and 20
>> knots faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying. Not
>> harder, just different than you might be used to. I would not advise
>> flying the RV-10 for the first time without some transition training,
>> even if you have thousands of hours. This is my opinion with regard to
>> safety, not insurance requirements, your mileage may vary. Mike Seager
>> is an excellent source for transition training; his website is
>> http://www.rvshirtsnmore.com
>> There were several pilots taking transition training from Mike prior to
>> first flights. Thank you for taking the time to answer my endless
>> questions. Also, thanks to John McMahon for setting up the training in
>> Portland, TN.
>> This airplane is responsive yet stable, a fast load hauler yet easy to
>> fly. Fairly roomy inside yet economical. It is hard to believe you can
>> get all these features in one airplane.
>> Lastly, demo flights in the RV-10 cost between $100K and $150K,
>> depending on your engine and panel selections.
>> Steve Roberts Alpharetta, GA
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David M." <ainut(at)hiwaay.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Seager Training (1M5) |
How much $?
David M.
John McMahon wrote:
> For anyone close that needs some time in the RV-10,we have
> some slots open on Sat 16th at Portland,Tn (1M5)..
> Just give me a call and I will try to get you in!!!!
>
> John McMahon
> Home=615-452-8742
> Cell=615-336-2340
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Seager Training (1M5) |
It's $155 an hour + minor travel expenses (~$10 - $20) per student to
cover his hotel. I spent 2.3 hours with him yesterday and just grabbed
another slot on Saturday. There's an article about Mike in SA this
month; I can tell you the article is dead on. He REALLY knows that
RV-10, and is a real joy to fly with!
Brian
40308
David M. wrote:
> How much $?
>
> David M.
>
>
> John McMahon wrote:
>> *For anyone close that needs some time in the RV-10,we have*
>> *some slots open on Sat 16th at Portland,Tn (1M5)..*
>> *Just give me a call and I will try to get you in!!!!*
>> **
>> * John McMahon*
>> * Home=615-452-8742*
>> * Cell=615-336-2340*
>>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lurker Flies RV-10 |
Steve,
It was great chatting with you yesterday! I warned you that it was
gonna cost you more than the $155/hr advertised! Hope to see you join
the ranks soon...
Brian
http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder
Steven Roberts wrote:
> I have been lurking on the Yahoo and Matronix RV-10 lists for two
> years...couldn't bring myself to commit $100K+ without ever flying an RV.
>
> Yesterday I had the chance to fly N220RV with Mike Seager in the right
> seat. I can sum up the experience with what I said to Mike at the end
> of the flight...I gotta get me one of these!
>
> I thought perhaps the thousands of other lurkers out there might
> appreciate the observations of this ex-lurker.
>
> I am a 300 hour instrument pilot, current but pretty rusty from not
> flying much over the past few years. Even so, after an hour with Mike
> I felt pretty comfortable in the 10, and the five landings I made were
> not bad, certainly better than my average landing in a spam can. One
> was in a 12 knot crosswind..."right rudder, right rudder, MORE right
> rudder". Hey, I said I was rusty. Other observations:
>
> Lots of power, even with the 210 hp in 220RV. The 260 hp must be a
> rocket.
>
> Much faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying...170 mph
> at 10 gph at 2500 msl was one of the datapoints I remember.
>
> Stick vs. yoke a non-issue after five minutes. My only stick time was
> in a super cub.
>
> Stalls at all the flap and power settings were slight nose drops and
> slight buffet...non-events actually. No wing drop at all.
>
> 220RV has electric pitch and roll trim on the stick coolie hat. You
> are going to love electric trim.
>
> Even though I had a few hours in aircraft with steering by
> differential braking, this takes some practice to steer precisely.
>
> Landings procedures in the RV-10 are different than spam cans, and 20
> knots faster than the Cessna's and Pipers I have been flying. Not
> harder, just different than you might be used to. I would not advise
> flying the RV-10 for the first time without some transition training,
> even if you have thousands of hours. This is my opinion with regard
> to safety, not insurance requirements, your mileage may vary. Mike
> Seager is an excellent source for transition training; his website is
> http://www.rvshirtsnmore.com
>
> There were several pilots taking transition training from Mike prior
> to first flights. Thank you for taking the time to answer my endless
> questions. Also, thanks to John McMahon for setting up the training
> in Portland, TN.
>
> This airplane is responsive yet stable, a fast load hauler yet easy to
> fly. Fairly roomy inside yet economical. It is hard to believe you
> can get all these features in one airplane.
>
> Lastly, demo flights in the RV-10 cost between $100K and $150K,
> depending on your engine and panel selections.
>
> Steve Roberts
> Alpharetta, GA
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Mcmahon" <rv6(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Seager Training (1M5) |
$192.00 1.5 Hrs
----- Original Message -----
From: David M.
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mike Seager Training (1M5)
How much $?
David M.
John McMahon wrote:
For anyone close that needs some time in the RV-10,we have
some slots open on Sat 16th at Portland,Tn (1M5)..
Just give me a call and I will try to get you in!!!!
John McMahon
Home=615-452-8742
Cell=615-336-2340
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Link McGarity <wv4i(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | C Type Pneumatic Squeezer |
Thanks to all who replied. You saved me a lot of time and probably money.
Rgds,
Link McGarity
RV-6/N42GF(bought flying)
RV-10/N41GF(Rsvd)/#40622/horiz stab
FD38/Wellington, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Gesele <tgesele(at)optonline.net> |
Has anyone used an alternate method of attaching the windows/windscreen to
the cabin cover on the -10? Any comments pro/con specifically relating to
using epoxy for the bonding with an layer of cloth on top to try and prevent
the paint cracking issue would be greatly appreciated.
- Tom Gesele #473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
I gave some serious thought to using Sikaflex which is very popular with
the canopy guys on the 2 seat models. For some reason I ordered the
Weldon when I was batch ordering though so I guess I'll probably go with
that.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Gesele
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 3:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Plexi Attach
Has anyone used an alternate method of attaching the windows/windscreen
to the cabin cover on the -10? Any comments pro/con specifically
relating to using epoxy for the bonding with an layer of cloth on top to
try and prevent the paint cracking issue would be greatly appreciated.
- Tom Gesele #473
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 Window Junction Cracks - Any Advise? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
this is a message about installing the windows that i had saved from
awhile ago. i think this is the way i'll go.
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of David McNeill
Sent: Wed 6/14/2006 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Window Junction Cracks - Any Advise?
Several things I would add to the previous message. Glassing the windows
in requires at least two people. One on the inside to clear the excess
and one on the outside to clear the excess insert the clecoes.
Additionally it helps to have some Teflon release cloth to place over
the edges to create a nice matte finish, absorb excess and a nice smooth
surface for further sanding.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Window Junction Cracks - Any Advise?
Mark,
Mat be too late for you but Davis McNeill provided this tidbit that is
uesed with grat sucess on Glasairs...hopefullu it will help others if
you can't use it.
Rick S.
40185
As provided by David:
Although the procedure takes only about an hour to accomplish per
window, setup and planning is substantially more.. I recommend that you
do one window to get the procs correct and plan to do the windshield on
a day by itself.
(0) tape off the inside and outside flange area of the window using 3M
Fineline (.5 width)
(1) then signstrip blue on the center areas to protect the inside and
outside of the window . Be generous when painting it on as this makes it
easy to pull off.
(2) sand the inside/outside edges of the window in the area of the
flange to roughen the glass for adhesion.
(3) sand the flanges of the lid; CLEAN ALL SANDED EDGES WITH ACETONE
(4) prepare a set of aluminum "fingers" . Strips of .080 1" by 3" ;
with a slight bend in the center. one end gets a #30 hole and the other
is adequately taped. each is numbered. See the picture.
(5) Trim the window to fit the frame and temporarily hold in place
with the NUMBERED "fingers". Clecoes should be place about .50" outside
the window. Drill #30 only through the external layer; NOT THROUGH THE
LID. RETAPE OFF THE EDGES 3M FINELINE TAPE .
(6) prepare a mixture of epoxy with chopped fibers and cabosil.
Consistency should be peanut butter. Potlife should plan to be 30-40
minutes. We refrigerated it to further slow the cure.
(7) putty the lid flanges, wet the window flanges with a small amount
of catalyzed epoxy and place window in frame; holding in place with
"fingers" at the preplanned locations.
(8) inside person should be wiping excess putty away with a 50-50
mixture of mineral spirirts and acetone; outside person should be
smoothing putty on outside flange. excess will be sanded off later. then
PULL THE TAPES BEFORE IT CURES.
(9) allow to cure 24 hours.
(10) Inside lid , flange should be finished . If rough, tape glass and
sand lightly.
(11) outside the lid, RETAPE the edge at the flange line, then cover
the flange with two 1" layers of glass (E-7782?). (Note this was the
Glastar procedure.) Remember to pull the tape before the layered glass
sets up. The windscreen on the RV10 requires a different layering of
glass on the aluminum.
(12) Retape the edge , then sand and fill external flange area for
paint. The sanding can feather into the edge of the tape.
(13) when painted , paint should cover the flange.
(14) MUST BE DONE BEFORE THE MIXTURE CURES. If you accidentally get
epoxy on the Plexiglas during the process, it can be safely removed
using a clean cloth and the 50-50 mixture of mineral spirits and
acetone. Have it handy.
(15) 50-50 mixture is also good for removing any signstrip that does
not come off when finally removing the protective covering before
flight.
http://wiki.matronics.com
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Attach |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Tom,
Use this stuff. After it cures, it stays flexible somewhat. Kitfox uses this
stuff to bond the ribs onto the spar. I use it to bond my skins to the ribs
(and then rivet them the next day). Several of my friends have bonded their
RV8 canopy's to the frame with this product. I will use it to bond my windows
on my RV10. May be better than Sikaflex. Don't know for sure because I have
never used Sikaflex. Picture below.
You can get it at MSC.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=61899#61899
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05931_117.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
Here's another tip....
If you want less sag on your baggage door, use the extruded piano hinge instead
of the one supplied in the kit. The extruded version is 4 times the cost
but is much, much stronger! The supplied version in the kit has the eyelets rolled.
As you can see from the pics, the extrusion has the eyelets closed.
Also, notice in the pictures the gap between eyelets. The extrusion has less
than the rolled version.
I have almost 1000 hours on my RV8 and have replaced 3 eyelets on my cowl piano
hinge so far. Vibration does a number on them. I will install extruded hinges
on my RV10 cowl for sure!
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=61902#61902
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05960_773.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05959_381.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05957_956.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 51% Rule saga continues |
| From: | like2loop(at)aol.com |
" I am trying to be REAL here, the problem is with the FAA who will certificate
multiple builds of the exact same model aircraft to the same (slow learning
/ dim witted) OBAM aircraft owner. The DARs are to blame, the system is flawed,
"
The real problem is people on this "Builders List" complaining about a non-building
issue day after day and clogging my e-mail box full of their mistaken
opinions!!! We are not the FAA and can not change anything by e-mail. Sorry
for beating around the bush.
If the "Professional Builder" is using his brain, he will NEVER buy the kit
or register it in his own name. I know a few guys that do this for a living
for various different kits, and they prefer to think of themselves as "builder
Assist programs", and usually have their client sign paperwork that states that
they are assisting and not being contracted to do all the work in accorardance
with the 51% rule. The actual owner still needs to be present and do some
work..... WHO CARES??? I could care less about who builds what, as long as
the finished plane is airworthy and safe.
They (builder assistants) certainly in most cases will be much better then
i am at building, you have to get better if you assist in the same project over
and over. For many builders this can be very good, as they may lack some
abilities that i may have yet they have enough cash to pay someone to assit them.
Good for them!!! That is a sign of financial success. As for complaining
about the "intent" of the rule, WHO cares? As long as they are NOT violating
the rule and building MY entire plane when i am not looking, it will never
effect me. I like building, some people don't, but yet they value the resulting
plane. I congratulate them for not stuping so low and buying a plane with
dome rivets from Cessna and Piper. Some of you even buy quick build kits...
SO WHAT? I plan to build mine myself and will not bother judging you for hiring
Phillipinos to do your work... even though your cash is going off shore when
there are Americans here that are willing to help
you with your project!!! How's that for a spin on the situation???
Please stop clogging the list with NON building stuff that if it lands in the
hands of the FAA can only serve to light a fire of some beaurocrat that is bored
and may jeopardize all homebuilders if the FAA decides a policy re-write
is needed. I have never seen the FAA do anything helpful to me. Please dont
call the FAA and complain about any issue related to homebuilt builder assitance.
I would suggest you build more and type less.
Repectfully - Steve
Port St. Lucie, FL
RV-10 Builder #40499 Finishing the Elevators....
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools,
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KiloPapa" <kilopapa(at)antelecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Attach |
FYI: Attached is the info sheet from 3M on the Scotch-Weld 2216 mentioned
below.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 7:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Plexi Attach
>
> Tom,
>
> Use this stuff. After it cures, it stays flexible somewhat. Kitfox uses
> this stuff to bond the ribs onto the spar. I use it to bond my skins to
> the ribs (and then rivet them the next day). Several of my friends have
> bonded their RV8 canopy's to the frame with this product. I will use it
> to bond my windows on my RV10. May be better than Sikaflex. Don't know
> for sure because I have never used Sikaflex. Picture below.
>
> You can get it at MSC.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc05931_117.jpg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine inspections? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
hey all -
i'm looking into buying an overhauled engine from a private seller, and
wondered what cost is usually associated with having an engine shop
disassemble and inspect the engine? i'm looking at an 0-540 E4B5 that i
want to change over to fuel injection, and also install electronic
ignition instead of mags. as an ex-drag race engine builder, i have a
pretty good handle on engines in general, but i've never dealt with an
aircraft engine, and would rather have a professional make sure all is
good. any and all advice would be GREATLY appreciated. also the engine
is an O-540 E4B5, which i think is appropriate for the RV-10 from the
research that i did, but if somehow i've misread or misunderstood the
engine identifiers that are comparable, please, someone let me know
before i waste a bunch of money!
thanks in advance!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine inspections? |
| From: | "Tim Dawson-Townsend" <Tdawson(at)avidyne.com> |
$4000 to $5000 for tear-down, inspection, and re-assembly, assuming all
is okay. Don't know on changing ignition or injection.
TDT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Chris Johnston
Sent: Fri 9/15/2006 11:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: engine inspections?
hey all -
i'm looking into buying an overhauled engine from a private seller, and
wondered what cost is usually associated with having an engine shop
disassemble and inspect the engine? i'm looking at an 0-540 E4B5 that i
want to change over to fuel injection, and also install electronic
ignition instead of mags. as an ex-drag race engine builder, i have a
pretty good handle on engines in general, but i've never dealt with an
aircraft engine, and would rather have a professional make sure all is
good. any and all advice would be GREATLY appreciated. also the engine
is an O-540 E4B5, which i think is appropriate for the RV-10 from the
research that i did, but if somehow i've misread or misunderstood the
engine identifiers that are comparable, please, someone let me know
before i waste a bunch of money!
thanks in advance!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Superior's engine build program |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
For any one that is interested in the Superior engine build program similar to
the XP-360, as I am, I contacted them about the possibility of an XP-540 program
at their build center and was very politely told that it wasn't going to happen.
I don't believe they understand the potential market for the 540 series
engines. If anyone else may be interested send them an email at xp360info(at)superiorairparts.com
and maybe if they see enough demand for the engine, we as a community
may see another alternative engine source. It never hurts to ask right.
Eric
40518 SB wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=61935#61935
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | mostly completed -10 for sale |
Just passing a note I saw on another forum for anyone interested.
Mostly complete RV-10 for sale
Posted by: "edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net" edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
edperry64
Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:01 am (PST)
A friend of mine lives in Auburn Wa and is trying to buy a hanger from a
lady whose husband just passed away. He was finishing up a -10 and from
the pictures it looks real nice. Glass cockpit and real clean. Not
flying yet but if anybody's looking for one I will forward the info to
you.
I will be at the airport most of today and will respond later tonight,
Ed Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | 51% Rule saga continues |
John,
>>If only Rick Schrameck was on that committee I could say "Fair and
Balanced". <<
Rick is on the committee, along with those you mentioned (thanks) and:
Frank Paskiewicz, FAA Production and Airworthiness Division, AIR-200
Earl Lawrence, Experimental Aircraft Association
Kim Barnette, FAA Flight Standards Service, AFS-300
Mike Brown, FAA Flight Standards Service, AFS-800
Stephen Buczynski, FAA Aircraft Certification, Van Nuys MIDO
Paul Fiduccia, Small Aircraft Manufacturers Association (SAMA)
Joe Gauthier, Manufacturing DAR
Paul Greer, Airworthiness Law Branch, AGC-210
Donald Lausman, FAA Airworthiness Certification Branch, AIR-230
Matt Tomsheck, FAA Aircraft Certification, Cleveland MIDO
Mikael Via, Glasair
Brian Whitehead, Transport Canada Civil Aviation
Jeremy Monnett, Sonex
It's as good a representation as I could ask for.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior's engine build program |
Eric,
I asked them the same question about a year and a half ago and got the
same response. Sad to see nothing has changed. I am also interested in
doing an engine build, will probably find a local IA and do it with his
help.
BTW: I have not been able to post anything to the list, everything gets
bounced back. If by chance this makes it on the list, is anyone else having
a problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | mostly completed -10 for sale |
Ed,
Can you post some pictures and price info for those of us that don't want
to join the SOCAL Yahoo group? I have a friend that may be interested.
Thanks,
Marcus
4.5 hours to 40 hr testing complete!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 9:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Just passing a note I saw on another forum for anyone interested.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/message/19841;_ylc=X3oDMTJydWgxM
m83BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE4NDQ1OTUEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNjAwMDY1NjE4BG1zZ0lkAzE5O
DQxBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzExNTg0MDcxODg-> Mostly complete RV-10
for sale
Posted by: "edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net"
edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
<http://profiles.yahoo.com/edperry64> edperry64
Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:01 am (PST)
A friend of mine lives in Auburn Wa and is trying to buy a hanger from a
lady whose husband just passed away. He was finishing up a -10 and from the
pictures it looks real nice. Glass cockpit and real clean. Not flying yet
but if anybody's looking for one I will forward the info to you.
I will be at the airport most of today and will respond later tonight,
Ed Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Superior's engine build program |
Do you want an engine before 2010? better try something that already exists
and is tested
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 6:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Superior's engine build program
>
> For any one that is interested in the Superior engine build program
> similar to the XP-360, as I am, I contacted them about the possibility of
> an XP-540 program at their build center and was very politely told that it
> wasn't going to happen. I don't believe they understand the potential
> market for the 540 series engines. If anyone else may be interested send
> them an email at xp360info(at)superiorairparts.com and maybe if they see
> enough demand for the engine, we as a community may see another
> alternative engine source. It never hurts to ask right.
>
> Eric
> 40518 SB wings
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=61935#61935
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need Some Advice |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I had an unfortunate accident this afternoon when one of my Quick Build wings slipped
from it's cradle. As you will see from the images, the inboard leading
edge was dented and the inboard end of the fuel tank was deformed. I would like
to hear some thoughts on recovering from this mistake.
David Maib :(
#40559
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0835.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0836.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0837.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0838.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0839.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0840.JPG
[/img]
--------
David Maib
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62020#62020
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc" <marchudson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Need Some Advice |
David
I wasn't able to see the pictures. You might want to resend them.
Hopefully you will be able to repair the damage. Sorry
to hear about it.
Marc Hudson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Need Some Advice
I had an unfortunate accident this afternoon when one of my Quick Build
wings slipped from it's cradle. As you will see from the images, the inboard
leading edge was dented and the inboard end of the fuel tank was deformed. I
would like to hear some thoughts on recovering from this mistake.
David Maib :(
#40559
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0835.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0836.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0837.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0838.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0839.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0840.JPG
[/img]
--------
David Maib
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62020#62020
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc" <marchudson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | mostly completed -10 for sale |
Ed
Can you send me some info on RV that is for sale?
Thanks Marc Hudson
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 8:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Just passing a note I saw on another forum for anyone interested.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/message/19841;_ylc=X3oDMTJydWgxM
m83BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE4NDQ1OTUEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNjAwMDY1NjE4BG1zZ0lkAzE5O
DQxBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzExNTg0MDcxODg-> Mostly complete RV-10
for sale
Posted by: "edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net"
edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
<http://profiles.yahoo.com/edperry64> edperry64
Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:01 am (PST)
A friend of mine lives in Auburn Wa and is trying to buy a hanger from a
lady whose husband just passed away. He was finishing up a -10 and from the
pictures it looks real nice. Glass cockpit and real clean. Not flying yet
but if anybody's looking for one I will forward the info to you.
I will be at the airport most of today and will respond later tonight,
Ed Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <service(at)snapfish.com> |
| Subject: | Unfortunate Mistake |
I had an accident this afternoon when on of my RV-10 Quick Build wings slip
ped off the cradle. The inboard leading edge was dented and the inboard fue
l tank panel was slightly deformed. I am looking for advice on how to grace
fully recover from this (completely preventable) mistake.
David Maib
#40559
tailcone
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Need Some Advice |
This is awesome! I'm not alone! Sorry for sounding thankful for your plight
but misery loves company.
I logged my event in my builder's log but didn't want to immortalize it that
much so I didn't take any pics.
My wing slipped off the cradle and fell the few inches to the concrete floor
of my shop, denting in the extreme inboard leading edge of the fuel tank,
and pushing in the non-riveted front edge tabs on the inboard rib. This, of
course, broke the QB pro-seal seal bead on the tank.
After calming down (:]), I looked at it and decided that the skin wasn't
compromised. About a 4" segment of the leading edge was just pitted from
the roughness of the concrete floor, and the LE right at the rib was dented
from the impact.
To fix, I used my rivet gun on a rounded block of wood held against the
front edge tabs to push them back into place. In some places I used just
the rivet gun itself (flush head both times) to push the AL back into place.
With the basic airfoil back into shape I used scotchbrite pads to
scuff/smooth the pits in the LE and then just primed it until it gets to the
paint shop to keep corrosion from forming, cuz I bet there was a lot of area
that was gouged past the alclad.
Then I mixed up a generous batch of proseal and resealed around every
conceivable area that could have been compromised from the fall. Done!
Yes my very inboard section of the wing is still a little flat, but after a
root fairing and a good coat of body work and paint there should be no
cosmetic residue. After leak testing my fuel sender/quick drain/fuel pickup
install both tanks were very satisfactory to me.
Rob Wright
#392
L Wing Tip
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 7:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Need Some Advice
I had an unfortunate accident this afternoon when one of my Quick Build
wings slipped from it's cradle. As you will see from the images, the inboard
leading edge was dented and the inboard end of the fuel tank was deformed. I
would like to hear some thoughts on recovering from this mistake.
David Maib :(
#40559
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0835.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0836.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0837.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0838.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0839.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0840.JPG
[/img]
--------
David Maib
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62020#62020
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Unfortunate Mistake |
David,
After checking out your slideshow I personally believe that you have only
cosmetic problems. The leading edge tabs on my rib were literally poking
through the proseal bead; I didn't see that on yours. I think reshaping the
inboard part of the airfoil will be your only necessary fix, but you may
want to check for torn areas in your proseal and reseal them.
Rob
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need Some Advice |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
David - Rob is real close on the complete solution. The other more
distant alternative, new components and a complete rebuild which is time
consuming, expensive and unnecessary.
If you need more clear and concise steps at returning to the original
airfoil and the exact tools (under $15.00) to effect the change, email
me offline to keep the whiners down and I will list out each step for
you. Rob's right about the prosealed tank seam too. There is a little
mold building involved, dent removal, planishing then prime, but it can
be fun and informative (useful when you come to the canopy too).
Repair of hangar rash is an all too common skill with many GA aircraft.
After the recovery, no one should be able to tell a thing. Structurally
it is a non issue.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 7:58 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Need Some Advice
This is awesome! I'm not alone! Sorry for sounding thankful for your
plight
but misery loves company.
I had an unfortunate accident this afternoon when one of my Quick Build
wings slipped from it's cradle. As you will see from the images, the
inboard
leading edge was dented and the inboard end of the fuel tank was
deformed. I
would like to hear some thoughts on recovering from this mistake.
David Maib :(
#40559
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0835.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0836.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0837.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0838.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0839.JPG
/Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0840.JPG
[/img]
--------
David Maib
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62020#62020
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
| Subject: | Using Sikaflex to bond windows |
Here is one of several links I found detailing the use of
Sikaflex 295 UV to bond the windows.
http://www.rv8.ch/search.php?query=sika&type=all&mode=search
Kevin
40494
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mostly completed -10 for sale |
----- Original Message -----
From: terry cronin
To: pascalreid(at)verizon.net
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Forwarding response for those interested:
I will give her your name, and if she gives me more info will send it
your way
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Ed,
Can you post some pictures and price info for those of us that
don't want to join the SOCAL Yahoo group? I have a friend that may be
interested.
Thanks,
Marcus
4.5 hours to 40 hr testing complete!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 9:43 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Just passing a note I saw on another forum for anyone interested.
Mostly complete RV-10 for sale
Posted by: "edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net" edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
edperry64
Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:01 am (PST)
A friend of mine lives in Auburn Wa and is trying to buy a hanger
from a lady whose husband just passed away. He was finishing up a -10
and from the pictures it looks real nice. Glass cockpit and real clean.
Not flying yet but if anybody's looking for one I will forward the info
to you.
I will be at the airport most of today and will respond later
tonight,
Ed Perry
<< IMGP0813.JPG >>
<< BOLLAERT.jpg >>
<< IMGP0808.JPG >>
<< IMGP0809.JPG >>
<< IMGP0810.JPG >>
<< IMGP0811.JPG >>
<< IMGP0812.JPG >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Unfortunate Mistake |
I had made the same mistake on one of my wings. The solution was to wire
brush all of the proseal from the affected area, then I used a plastic
hammer, wood block, fluting pliers, and the rivet gun to get it all back
in shape. The hardest part was getting the rib somewhat straight. It
took around 4-5 hours of repair, and applying a new coat of proseal over
the area.
Here is a pic AFTER the repair, but before the proseal: (I was too
pissed to take pics before the repair, but it looked EXACTLY like yours)
-Jim 40384 (Glad to see I'm not the only one who had this accident! My
wing stand now has foam padded "crash bars")
dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KiloPapa" <kilopapa(at)antelecom.net> |
| Subject: | Alternate window adhesive |
Has anyone used one of the alternate adhesives as discussed on the RV
forums for installing the windows? I am interested in hearing from
those who have actually used an alternate and what they liked or didn't
like of the process.
Kevin
40494
tail/empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <pascalreid(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mostly completed -10 for sale |
Just forwarding Ed's response. I play no part at all in this.
----- Original Message -----
From: edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
To: Pascal
Cc: terry cronin
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
I will forward your message to my friend. He has the contact info.
Neither one of us represent the owner.
Ed Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal
To: edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 2:36 PM
Subject: Fw: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Ed;
Not sure you saw this, just in case.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Ed,
Can you post some pictures and price info for those of us that
don't want to join the SOCAL Yahoo group? I have a friend that may be
interested.
Thanks,
Marcus
4.5 hours to 40 hr testing complete!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 9:43 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Just passing a note I saw on another forum for anyone interested.
Mostly complete RV-10 for sale
Posted by: "edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net" edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
edperry64
Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:01 am (PST)
A friend of mine lives in Auburn Wa and is trying to buy a hanger
from a lady whose husband just passed away. He was finishing up a -10
and from the pictures it looks real nice. Glass cockpit and real clean.
Not flying yet but if anybody's looking for one I will forward the info
to you.
I will be at the airport most of today and will respond later
tonight,
Ed Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Safety Alert WD-415 weldment |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
All,
Here is a repost from Vic Syracuse to the VAF forum. I have not seen
the message on this list but think it is essential reading for all of
us. Thanks Vic for the heads up!
"I thought I should let everyone know that yesterday during a preflight
I noticed that the left trim tab had a little more slop in it than
usual. I took off the trim cable access cover plate, and it came
completely off, meaning the nut was broken from the wd-415 weldment. I
know we have talked in the past about that particular piece not looking
quite sturdy enough, and right now that looks to be the case. I have a
little over 320 hours on the airplane. I did not notice it on my post
flight Sunday, but on my preflight prior to my commute home yesterday.
alk about a miracle, though, and the advantages of the RV community. I
live at Mallard's Landing in Georgia, and so does Aaron Sims, another
RV-10 builder who is not flying yet. Guess who's parts I got to borrow?
So, I am replacing both mine and Aarons with the parts from Dave at
Rivethead-aero.com. Ordered them and 4 new cover plates from Van;s last
night. I would recommend to those of you who are flying that you check
these regularly.
Now, for my opinion on the actual safety if a failure occurs? I think
the trim cables are pretty stiff. I did go ahead and make the 15 minute
flight home with no problem. If both of them broke, we might have a
different story, but that's only conjecture.
Here's the link for the parts:
<http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm>
Vic"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Kraus" <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> |
| Subject: | Safety Alert WD-415 weldment |
When you take it apart, see if the nut is stainless and if the plate is
ferrous steel (use a magnet). I had mine break before flight and
determined that if they are both stainless, you cannot break them. But
there are a bunch of ones out there that are mixed metal and if you try
to bent it, the nut breaks right off.....
We are building a few RV-s at our airport and we checked everyone's
stock. They were mixed. I called Van's and explained my findings,
they replaced them for free but I don't know if they did anything behind
the scenes to fix the issue.
-M
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 6:20 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment
All,
Here is a repost from Vic Syracuse to the VAF forum. I have not seen
the message on this list but think it is essential reading for all of
us. Thanks Vic for the heads up!
"I thought I should let everyone know that yesterday during a preflight
I noticed that the left trim tab had a little more slop in it than
usual. I took off the trim cable access cover plate, and it came
completely off, meaning the nut was broken from the wd-415 weldment. I
know we have talked in the past about that particular piece not looking
quite sturdy enough, and right now that looks to be the case. I have a
little over 320 hours on the airplane. I did not notice it on my post
flight Sunday, but on my preflight prior to my commute home yesterday.
alk about a miracle, though, and the advantages of the RV community. I
live at Mallard's Landing in Georgia, and so does Aaron Sims, another
RV-10 builder who is not flying yet. Guess who's parts I got to borrow?
So, I am replacing both mine and Aarons with the parts from Dave at
Rivethead-aero.com. Ordered them and 4 new cover plates from Van;s last
night. I would recommend to those of you who are flying that you check
these regularly.
Now, for my opinion on the actual safety if a failure occurs? I think
the trim cables are pretty stiff. I did go ahead and make the 15 minute
flight home with no problem. If both of them broke, we might have a
different story, but that's only conjecture.
Here's the link for the parts:
<http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm>
Vic"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
Deems has a few pics of the trim tab weldment on his web site at
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Also, I included a couple of pics of the part already mounted on my trim tab cover.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62165#62165
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03925_125.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03924_100.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming IO-540 300-HP engines? |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
The mount & cowl supplied with the RV-10 will accept parallel valve Lycomings (either
narrow or wide deck). What won't work is an angle valve engine like the
IO-540-K series mentioned. The engines mentioned that are in RV-10s and achieving
greater than 260 HP are all parallel valve models with various mods - higher
compression pistons, cold air induction, etc.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62169#62169
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marc" <marchudson(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | mostly completed -10 for sale |
Ed
Is there any why I can get the phone number of the person selling this
aircraft?
Thanks
Marc
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Just forwarding Ed's response. I play no part at all in this.
----- Original Message -----
From: edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
Cc: terry cronin
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
I will forward your message to my friend. He has the contact info. Neither
one of us represent the owner.
Ed Perry
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal <mailto:pascalreid(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 2:36 PM
Subject: Fw: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Ed;
Not sure you saw this, just in case.
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: Marcus Cooper <mailto:coop85(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Ed,
Can you post some pictures and price info for those of us that don't want
to join the SOCAL Yahoo group? I have a friend that may be interested.
Thanks,
Marcus
4.5 hours to 40 hr testing complete!
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 9:43 AM
Subject: RV10-List: mostly completed -10 for sale
Just passing a note I saw on another forum for anyone interested.
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/message/19841;_ylc=X3oDMTJydWgxM
m83BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzE4NDQ1OTUEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNjAwMDY1NjE4BG1zZ0lkAzE5O
DQxBHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2bXNnBHN0aW1lAzExNTg0MDcxODg-> Mostly complete RV-10
for sale
Posted by: "edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net"
edmondperry(at)sbcglobal.net
<http://profiles.yahoo.com/edperry64> edperry64
Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:01 am (PST)
A friend of mine lives in Auburn Wa and is trying to buy a hanger from a
lady whose husband just passed away. He was finishing up a -10 and from the
pictures it looks real nice. Glass cockpit and real clean. Not flying yet
but if anybody's looking for one I will forward the info to you.
I will be at the airport most of today and will respond later tonight,
Ed Perry
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment |
All,
Remember that when Vic completed his plane the parts available were only
welded on the one side of the nut. Since then the nuts come welded on both
sides. Good judgment always prevails, but with the new welded type there
may be no structural reason to use the extruded aftermarket brackets.
Of course, they would definitely add a degree or two of reliability to early
failure, even if they don't increase the actual safety of the install. For
instance, did Van's perhaps design into the system the ability to overpower
the weld if there were a control binding issue? No way to do that with the
extruded bracket.
Rob Wright
#392
Wing Tips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 7:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment
Guys,
Deems has a few pics of the trim tab weldment on his web site at
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Also, I included a couple of pics of the part already mounted on my trim tab
cover.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62165#62165
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03925_125.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03924_100.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Link McGarity <wv4i(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | HS-1008L/R Brackets |
Take care to note that dimensions on these angled aluminum parts go from
1.5" on the long side end to 1.5" at angle to 1 21/32" at short side
end. Also, note that the flare is only on one side of short angle side,
not both. Not a big deal if caught early. Note that Air Parts has more
AA6-187-3x3, as well as Van's, hi.....
Link McGarity
#40622
Thanks to Deems Davis' site for great pics of these parts (images 1,4,5):
http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-1008L/R Brackets |
Read the plans, measure twice, cut outside the finished called out dimensions and
file to the finished dimensions followed by proper deburring and polishing.
Consider fabricating these parts as the EDUCATIONAL part of building your aircraft.
If you screw up don't make the same mistake twice ;)
Given that, the trim tab brackets suck and short of brazing up the provided ones
I would opt for the nicely machined ones unless I had a mill handy.
Do you think buying these parts will lower your build below the %51 percent mark?
They are somewhat time consuming but when you do finish them they sure are
a small rewarding part of the construction process.
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: Link McGarity <wv4i(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Sep 18, 2006 2:47 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: HS-1008L/R Brackets
>
>
>Take care to note that dimensions on these angled aluminum parts go from
>1.5" on the long side end to 1.5" at angle to 1 21/32" at short side
>end. Also, note that the flare is only on one side of short angle side,
>not both. Not a big deal if caught early. Note that Air Parts has more
>AA6-187-3x3, as well as Van's, hi.....
>
>Link McGarity
>#40622
>
>Thanks to Deems Davis' site for great pics of these parts (images 1,4,5):
>
>http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com> |
The angle head IO-540 can be ruled out as a candidate for the -10
because of the increase in both width and weight. Additionally, don't
expect 290-300 HP from the standard vertical induction (D4A5-C4B5) sump
as the inlet throat is too small requiring the 'smaller' RSA-5, AFP
FM200, or Precision servo, and the inlet air is heated from the oil
temps and is not very efficient, regardless of compression ratio. That
being said, an increase in compression of 9:1 will net you an increase
of about 6-8, possibly 10 HP without any detrimental effect on the
engine. But, increase the compression to say, 9.5:1 and higher, and the
bearing load particularly the rod bearings, increase substantially. This
will affect the TBO of the engine. In a nut shell the higher the
compression, the lower the TBO of the engine. The Cold Air Induction
system that some builders are opting for has a three inch opening
allowing the use of a bigger fuel servo. An engine configured with Cold
Air, RSA-10 or AFP 300 A servo, 9:1 compression can and has dynoed at
290 plus sea level horsepower. The Cold Air Induction won't fit under
the standard Van's cowl because of the plenum chamber depth and inlet
air location, but there is an alternative cowl design in the works
(James Cowl).
Not meaning any disrespect to John as I value his knowledge and input
and have had several very meaningful conversations with him (thanks
John), but there is no significant difference in weight or width between
the old narrow deck and current wide deck cases. The narrow deck cases
of yesteryear have screw in =BD " case studs that were anchored in one
half of the cases. The newer style wide deck cases have shouldered, or
body fit through bolts. Also, the narrow deck cases have a narrower
cylinder stud pattern than the wide decks and require plates under the
cylinder base nuts for rigidity.
I hope this clarifies just a few questions.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
<http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
________________________________
I've stopped 54,091 spam messages. You can too!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James K Hovis" <james.k.hovis(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Some Advice |
If you'd like, send me the pictures directly. Telling people how to fix such
problems is actually what I do for a living ;-).
JKH.
On 9/16/06, dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
>
> I had an unfortunate accident this afternoon when one of my Quick Build
> wings slipped from it's cradle. As you will see from the images, the inboard
> leading edge was dented and the inboard end of the fuel tank was deformed. I
> would like to hear some thoughts on recovering from this mistake.
>
> David Maib :(
> #40559
> /Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0835.JPG
> /Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0836.JPG
> /Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0837.JPG
> /Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0838.JPG
> /Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0839.JPG
> /Users/davidmaib/Desktop/IMG_0840.JPG
> [/img]
>
> --------
> David Maib
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62020#62020
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine inspections? |
| From: | "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com> |
Hi Chris,
There is a lot you can learn about an engine before paying for an
inspection.
1. Get the serial number and call Lycoming with it. They can tell you
any dealing they have had with the engine.
2. Buy a copy of the overhaul and maintenance manual for the engine
(available through Lycoming or at www.escoaircraft.com).
3. Get an ADs list from either Lycoming or the FAA website. See if these
are complied with. Some people will say these are not need because of
being an experimental, but most ADs are for you safety.
4. Go to Lycoming site and make bloody sure the crankshaft is not
affected by the crank AD. This is a BIG ticket item.
5. Ensure the engine doesn't have ECI Classic Cast cylinders. Again,
another big ticket item with an AD on them.
6. Get third party feedback about the overhualer. Also find out if the
overhaul was to new of service limits. Call the EAA chapter in the area
of the overhualer and ask them if they have any experience with them.
7. Ask for copies of the overhaul receipts. Was the engine case line
board? Was the cam and crank reworked, replaced? Is it undersized and by
how much? Are the cylinders new over overhauled?
8. Look through the log and find out how many hours total time and times
it has been overhauled? I have been told three overhauls are about all
that can be expected from a case. But this was one person's opinion.
Check the logs for teardown inspection (read sudden stoppage) or thing
related to prop strikes. Was it repaired correctly after such an event?
9. Look at how long and how the engine has been stored.
10. Also check the engine mounts the RV-10 uses the small holed mounts
#70456.
11. If the engine is mounted and running get a hot compression test and
oil analysis (about $19). Check what the plugs look like. If this isn't
possible get a cold compression test. If the engine is preserved,
neither of these will be meaningful or possible.
12. If possible fly behind it. Check cold oil pressure and hot oil
pressure note the difference between these. Are they within limit for
that specific engine?
13. Try and get the N number for the plane it came out of and look it up
on the NTSB website for possible accident involvement.
And now the disclaimer: This list is not an all inclusive inspection
list and doesn't replace an inspection. But it will help you eliminate
the "also runs" from your list for very little cash. I'm not an IA or an
A&P but I have been in the same position you're in and these are a few
points I have gleaned.
Hope this is helpful,
Vern (40324 wings; left ready to close right maybe another week:)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 8:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: engine inspections?
hey all -
i'm looking into buying an overhauled engine from a private seller, and
wondered what cost is usually associated with having an engine shop
disassemble and inspect the engine? i'm looking at an 0-540 E4B5 that i
want to change over to fuel injection, and also install electronic
ignition instead of mags. as an ex-drag race engine builder, i have a
pretty good handle on engines in general, but i've never dealt with an
aircraft engine, and would rather have a professional make sure all is
good. any and all advice would be GREATLY appreciated. also the engine
is an O-540 E4B5, which i think is appropriate for the RV-10 from the
research that i did, but if somehow i've misread or misunderstood the
engine identifiers that are comparable, please, someone let me know
before i waste a bunch of money!
thanks in advance!
cj
#40410
fuse
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | phil barnette <barnettephillip(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment |
ordered the rivethead extruded parts, as well as several of the other products
he has- will be delivered today, so haven't seen the quality, but other folks
say they're great. After spending several hours on the horizontal stabilizer
attach brackets, then misdrilling one of the holes, $20 for the set of HS brackets
is just the right prove!
phil
RV10
horizontal stabilizer
KSLC
"McGANN, Ron" wrote:
All,
Here is a repost from Vic Syracuse to the VAF forum. I have not seen the message
on this list but think it is essential reading for all of us. Thanks Vic
for the heads up!
"I thought I should let everyone know that yesterday during a preflight I noticed
that the left trim tab had a little more slop in it than usual. I took off
the trim cable access cover plate, and it came completely off, meaning the nut
was broken from the wd-415 weldment. I know we have talked in the past about
that particular piece not looking quite sturdy enough, and right now that looks
to be the case. I have a little over 320 hours on the airplane. I did not
notice it on my post flight Sunday, but on my preflight prior to my commute home
yesterday.
alk about a miracle, though, and the advantages of the RV community. I live at
Mallard's Landing in Georgia, and so does Aaron Sims, another RV-10 builder
who is not flying yet. Guess who's parts I got to borrow?
So, I am replacing both mine and Aarons with the parts from Dave at Rivethead-aero.com.
Ordered them and 4 new cover plates from Van;s last night. I would
recommend to those of you who are flying that you check these regularly.
Now, for my opinion on the actual safety if a failure occurs? I think the trim
cables are pretty stiff. I did go ahead and make the 15 minute flight home with
no problem. If both of them broke, we might have a different story, but that's
only conjecture.
Here's the link for the parts:
<http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm>
Vic"
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Goodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Countersink problem |
Well I went and blew it. I was countersinking the HS 1007 and went too
deep on one hole. The metal is thick enough that it's still good, but
the 1/8" rivet head sits too deep. Is there such a thing as an
oversized flush head rivet? I live 5 minutes from Aircraft Spruce -
would they have anything?
John Goodman
#40572
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
Just for additional info for inquiring minds, I have one of Allen=92s
cold air
inductions on my engine and am using Van=92s standard cowl with some
modification. I am a fiberglass builder of old, Glasair III, and I
don=92t
think that anyone should have any trouble modifying the cowl to make the
cold air induction fit. If you are interested in the specfics of the
mod,
e-mail me and I will fill you in.
Gary
40274
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 9:56 AM
Subject: RV10-List: 300 HP engines
The angle head IO-540 can be ruled out as a candidate for the -10
because of
the increase in both width and weight. Additionally, don=92t expect
290-300 HP
from the standard vertical induction (D4A5-C4B5) sump as the inlet
throat is
too small requiring the =91smaller=92 RSA-5, AFP FM200, or Precision
servo, and
the inlet air is heated from the oil temps and is not very efficient,
regardless of compression ratio. That being said, an increase in
compression
of 9:1 will net you an increase of about 6-8, possibly 10 HP without any
detrimental effect on the engine. But, increase the compression to say,
9.5:1 and higher, and the bearing load particularly the rod bearings,
increase substantially. This will affect the TBO of the engine. In a nut
shell the higher the compression, the lower the TBO of the engine. The
Cold
Air Induction system that some builders are opting for has a three inch
opening allowing the use of a bigger fuel servo. An engine configured
with
Cold Air, RSA-10 or AFP 300 A servo, 9:1 compression can and has dynoed
at
290 plus sea level horsepower. The Cold Air Induction won=92t fit under
the
standard Van=92s cowl because of the plenum chamber depth and inlet air
location, but there is an alternative cowl design in the works (James
Cowl).
Not meaning any disrespect to John as I value his knowledge and input
and
have had several very meaningful conversations with him (thanks John),
but
there is no significant difference in weight or width between the old
narrow
deck and current wide deck cases. The narrow deck cases of yesteryear
have
screw in =BD =93 case studs that were anchored in one half of the cases.
The
newer style wide deck cases have shouldered, or body fit through bolts.
Also, the narrow deck cases have a narrower cylinder stud pattern than
the
wide decks and require plates under the cylinder base nuts for rigidity.
I hope this clarifies just a few questions.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc.
www.barrettprecisionengines.com
<http://www.barrettprecisionengines.com/>
_____
I've stopped 54,091 spam messages. You can too!
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Join the
fight against spam!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
Do you have a photo of the cowling mod?
Thanks,
Kevin
40494
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 300 HP engines
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 16:55:56 -0400
>Just for additional info for inquiring minds, I have one of
>Allens cold air inductions on my engine and am using
Vans
>standard cowl with some modification. I am a fiberglass
>builder of old, Glasair III, and I dont think that
anyone
>should have any trouble modifying the cowl to make the cold
>air induction fit. If you are interested in the specfics
>of the mod, e-mail me and I will fill you in.
>
>Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Countersink problem |
Please let us folks that don't sleep with the plans know what part is the HS
1007? If this a is a spar then the skin dimples need to sit in the counter
sunk hole and the countersinks need to be deeper than the heads of the
rivets anyway.
Make dimples in all the different thicknesses of skin material you'll be
using and then you can use these gauges to determine the correct depth of
your countersunk hole.
Be sure to tighten your countersinker thoroughly before starting as the
depth can change and metal shaving stuck in the unit can change the depth
also.
Again, I don't remember what is HS 1007 so maybe this doesn't apply.
JG. 409 Back from summer soaring to putting on the Tail Feathers to the
cone.
>From: John Goodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Countersink problem
>Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 16:53:17 -0400
>
>
>Well I went and blew it. I was countersinking the HS 1007 and went too deep
>on one hole. The metal is thick enough that it's still good, but the 1/8"
>rivet head sits too deep. Is there such a thing as an oversized flush head
>rivet? I live 5 minutes from Aircraft Spruce - would they have anything?
>
>John Goodman
>#40572
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countersink problem |
John,
You can go up to the next size rivet 5/32" or AN 426-5, Spruce sells them but you
may have a minimum order of .25 pound or something. Depending on how deep
you countersink is it may not be that big of a deal just to go ahead with the
AN4 as called out. There are lots of rivets in that plate to the spar. Going up
one size will give you the most piece of mind.
Rick S.
40185 Waaaaaaaaaay past the HS Spar
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Goodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Sep 18, 2006 4:53 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Countersink problem
>
>
>Well I went and blew it. I was countersinking the HS 1007 and went too
>deep on one hole. The metal is thick enough that it's still good, but
>the 1/8" rivet head sits too deep. Is there such a thing as an
>oversized flush head rivet? I live 5 minutes from Aircraft Spruce -
>would they have anything?
>
>John Goodman
>#40572
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
When I get back in town I will take some pix. I haven't completed the
glassing yet but will send what I have.
GAry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
kilopapa(at)antelecom.net
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 5:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 300 HP engines
Do you have a photo of the cowling mod?
Thanks,
Kevin
40494
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 300 HP engines
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 16:55:56 -0400
>Just for additional info for inquiring minds, I have one of
>Allen's cold air inductions on my engine and am using
Van's
>standard cowl with some modification. I am a fiberglass
>builder of old, Glasair III, and I don't think that
anyone
>should have any trouble modifying the cowl to make the cold
>air induction fit. If you are interested in the specfics
>of the mod, e-mail me and I will fill you in.
>
>Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
I didn't expect such a response. I am presently out of town on business, so
I will describe what I did and then take pix when I get back and get the
stuff complete.
I purchased a Brackett #101 filter assembly from a Cessna 175 and other
aircraft (Spruce). It has sufficient surface area to handle our 260++ Hp.
I made a transitional piece from the servo to the filter by gluing Styrofoam
together to make a solid block that I could carve to the correct shape.
After it is carved and sanded nice and smooth, I glassed it with 4 layers of
glass. After cure I dissolved the foam with lacquer thinner, cleaned up the
inside and cut an alternate air door in the top.
I then cut away the interfering part of Van's cowl to allow me to put the
lower cowl on the airframe. I then hot glued foam on the left, right and
bottom side of the filter outside the present inlet scoop on Vans. I plan
on making a larger exit to handle the high cyl head temps that some have
seen. When I left town I had just glued the foam in place and when I get
back I will carve nice curves on it and glass it in place on the outside.
Then I will remove excess foam on the inside and glass it in place.
Sorry if this sounds confusing. I will take pix and post them when I get
back.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
kilopapa(at)antelecom.net
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 5:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 300 HP engines
Do you have a photo of the cowling mod?
Thanks,
Kevin
40494
----- Original Message Follows -----
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV10-List: 300 HP engines
Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 16:55:56 -0400
>Just for additional info for inquiring minds, I have one of
>Allen's cold air inductions on my engine and am using
Van's
>standard cowl with some modification. I am a fiberglass
>builder of old, Glasair III, and I don't think that
anyone
>should have any trouble modifying the cowl to make the cold
>air induction fit. If you are interested in the specfics
>of the mod, e-mail me and I will fill you in.
>
>Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
Thanks, I am looking forward to seeing what you have done.
Kevin
40494
>
>
>I didn't expect such a response. I am presently out of
>town on business, so I will describe what I did and then
>take pix when I get back and get the stuff complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Will James cowl plug for RV-10 |
I just received several pics of the cowl plug that Will has been working
on for the RV-10 w/ BPE cold air induction, There are too many pics to
include in this post and in deferrance to those wth dial-up. So I'm
posting them at my web site http://deemsrv10.com/ go to the photo
albums and then look for the Will James Cowl folder. (They are being
published as I type this).
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Neil Colliver <neilcolliver(at)maxnet.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: 300 HP engines |
Hi gary
I have ordered the cold air from Barretts, and so am very interested -
please send pics & details of what you did.
Thanks
Neil
On 19 Sep 2006, at 8:55, gary wrote:
>
> Just for additional info for inquiring minds, I have one of Allen=92s
> cold air inductions on my engine and am using Van=92s standard cowl
with
> some modification.- I am a fiberglass builder of old, Glasair III,
and
> I don=92t think that anyone should have any trouble modifying the cowl
> to make the cold air induction fit.- If you are interested in the
> specfics of the mod, e-mail me and I will fill you in.
> -
> Gary
> 40274
> -
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPA
> Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 9:56 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: 300 HP engines
> -
> The angle head IO-540 can be ruled out as a candidate for the -10
> because of the increase in both width and weight. Additionally, don=92t
> expect 290-300 HP from the standard vertical induction (D4A5-C4B5)
> sump as the inlet throat is too small requiring the =91smaller=92
RSA-5,
> AFP FM200, or Precision servo, and the inlet air is heated from the
> oil temps and is not very efficient, regardless of compression ratio.
> That being said, an increase in compression of 9:1 will net you an
> increase of about 6-8, possibly 10 HP without any detrimental effect
> on the engine. But, increase the compression to say, 9.5:1 and higher,
> and the bearing load particularly the rod bearings, increase
> substantially. This will affect the TBO of the engine. In a nut shell
> the higher the compression, the lower the TBO of the engine. The Cold
> Air Induction system that some builders are opting for has a three
> inch opening allowing the use of a bigger fuel servo. An engine
> configured with Cold Air, RSA-10 or AFP 300 A servo, 9:1 compression
> can and has dynoed at 290 plus sea level horsepower. The Cold Air
> Induction won=92t fit under the standard Van=92s cowl because of the
> plenum chamber depth and inlet air location, but there is an
> alternative cowl design in the works (James Cowl).
> -
> Not meaning any disrespect to John as I value his knowledge and input
> and have had several very meaningful conversations with him (thanks
> John), but there is no significant difference in weight or width
> between the old narrow deck and current wide deck cases. The narrow
> deck cases of yesteryear have screw in =BD =93 case studs that were
> anchored in one half of the cases. The newer style wide deck cases
> have shouldered, or body fit through bolts. Also, the narrow deck
> cases have a narrower cylinder stud pattern than the wide decks and
> require plates under the cylinder base nuts for rigidity.
> -
> I hope this clarifies just a few questions.
> -
> Allen Barrett
> BPE, Inc.
> www.barrettprecisionengines.com
> -
> -
> ----
> -
>
> -
>
>
> I've stopped 54,091 spam messages. You can too!
> One month FREE spam protection at www.cloudmark.com
> -
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
Anyone install the CreativAir LED/Strobe combo lights? I'm installing both
the LED/Strobe combo as well as the Van's Ldg Light kit, so looking for
ideas on how to fit it all in there.
Rob Wright
#392
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Will James cowl plug for RV-10 |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Here's a question -
Do you have to be using BPEs cold air induction to use the cowl? May
sound silly, but I get the feeling that the James cowl will cool the
engine better (and look cooler!)
cj
#40410
fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 5:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Will James cowl plug for RV-10
I just received several pics of the cowl plug that Will has been working
on for the RV-10 w/ BPE cold air induction, There are too many pics to
include in this post and in deferrance to those wth dial-up. So I'm
posting them at my web site http://deemsrv10.com/ go to the photo
albums and then look for the Will James Cowl folder. (They are being
published as I type this).
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Panel/Finishing
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Countersink problem |
Check edge distances and if it looks good, plant a -5 rivit in place.. I've
a few in various places where I boogered drilling out a poorly driven -4
rivets.
Fwiw
Steve 40205
Well I went and blew it. I was countersinking the HS 1007 and went too
deep on one hole. The metal is thick enough that it's still good, but
the 1/8" rivet head sits too deep. Is there such a thing as an
oversized flush head rivet? I live 5 minutes from Aircraft Spruce -
would they have anything?
John Goodman
#40572
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Will James cowl plug for RV-10 |
Will already has a cowl made for the RV-10 w/o the Barrett CAS system,
you can see pics of it on his site.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finishing.Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Chris Johnston wrote:
>
>Here's a question -
>
>Do you have to be using BPEs cold air induction to use the cowl? May
>sound silly, but I get the feeling that the James cowl will cool the
>engine better (and look cooler!)
>
>cj
>#40410
>fuse
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
>Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 5:10 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Will James cowl plug for RV-10
>
>
>I just received several pics of the cowl plug that Will has been working
>
>on for the RV-10 w/ BPE cold air induction, There are too many pics to
>include in this post and in deferrance to those wth dial-up. So I'm
>posting them at my web site http://deemsrv10.com/ go to the photo
>albums and then look for the Will James Cowl folder. (They are being
>published as I type this).
>
>Deems Davis # 406
>Fuse/Panel/Finishing
>http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Thunderbolt Factory FFW "Kit" for RV-10 |
I am working with the Lycoming Thunderbolt Experimental Engine Shop to
develop an engine and a firewall forward "Kit" for the RV-10.
They are interested in what the RV-10 builders would want in this "Kit".
Some options are:
IO-540 parallel valve @ 260 to 300+ bhp
IO-580 angle valve @ 315 to 340+ bhp
TIO-540 parallel valve @ 260 to 300+ bhp
TIO-360 angle valve @ 230 to 260 bhp
or......?
They have all the production Lycoming parts to mix and match plus any after
market parts.
They are also working with Sam James on a Cowl & Cooling Plenum to fit the
engine of choice.
What else would you like to see in a factory supplied "Kit"?
Prop, Cooler, Hoses, Mounts, Filter, Sensors, Engine Monitor, Electronic Ign
and/or FI, etc.....
ERic--
40014
FFW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Factory FFW "Kit" for RV-10 |
How about a price less than that of the complete airframe?
-Jim 40384
Eric Parlow wrote:
>
> I am working with the Lycoming Thunderbolt Experimental Engine Shop to
> develop an engine and a firewall forward "Kit" for the RV-10.
>
> They are interested in what the RV-10 builders would want in this "Kit".
>
> Some options are:
> IO-540 parallel valve @ 260 to 300+ bhp
> IO-580 angle valve @ 315 to 340+ bhp
> TIO-540 parallel valve @ 260 to 300+ bhp
> TIO-360 angle valve @ 230 to 260 bhp
> or......?
> They have all the production Lycoming parts to mix and match plus any
> after market parts.
> They are also working with Sam James on a Cowl & Cooling Plenum to fit
> the engine of choice.
> What else would you like to see in a factory supplied "Kit"?
> Prop, Cooler, Hoses, Mounts, Filter, Sensors, Engine Monitor,
> Electronic Ign and/or FI, etc.....
>
> ERic--
> 40014
> FFW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Thunderbolt Factory FFW "Kit" for RV-10 |
I would pretty much want the whole "soup to nuts" FF kit similar to
Van's with the IO-540 parallel valve setup. Would be interested in
seeing the TIO-360 setup as well. Sam James cowl and plenum would be
a big plus!
David Maib
40559
On Sep 18, 2006, at 10:12 PM, Eric Parlow wrote:
I am working with the Lycoming Thunderbolt Experimental Engine Shop
to develop an engine and a firewall forward "Kit" for the RV-10.
They are interested in what the RV-10 builders would want in this "Kit".
Some options are:
IO-540 parallel valve @ 260 to 300+ bhp
IO-580 angle valve @ 315 to 340+ bhp
TIO-540 parallel valve @ 260 to 300+ bhp
TIO-360 angle valve @ 230 to 260 bhp
or......?
They have all the production Lycoming parts to mix and match plus any
after market parts.
They are also working with Sam James on a Cowl & Cooling Plenum to
fit the engine of choice.
What else would you like to see in a factory supplied "Kit"?
Prop, Cooler, Hoses, Mounts, Filter, Sensors, Engine Monitor,
Electronic Ign and/or FI, etc.....
ERic--
40014
FFW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LED Nav Lights |
I have LED/Strobes with Van's landing light kit on N710RV (flying). I
am not very good at posting pictures to Matronics but if you want a
couple contact me direct at dav1111 at cox.net.
Best regards,
Russ Daves
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Wright
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2006 7:28 PM
Subject: RV10-List: LED Nav Lights
Anyone install the CreativAir LED/Strobe combo lights? I'm installing
both the LED/Strobe combo as well as the Van's Ldg Light kit, so looking
for ideas on how to fit it all in there.
Rob Wright
#392
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS-1008L/R Brackets |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
wv4i(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
> Take care to note that dimensions on these angled aluminum parts go from
> 1.5" on the long side end to 1.5" at angle to 1 21/32" at short side
> end. Also, note that the flare is only on one side of short angle side,
> not both. Not a big deal if caught early. Note that Air Parts has more
> AA6-187-3x3, as well as Van's, hi.....
>
> Link McGarity
> #40622
>
> Thanks to Deems Davis' site for great pics of these parts (images 1,4,5):
>
> http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/CNC%20Parts/index.html
Luckily, Van's provides enough AA6... to make one more (g).
John
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62514#62514
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Number of 10 tails? |
The Oregon Aero seats in my finish kit had s/n 314. Do you suppose that
corresponds in any way to the number of finish kits delivered?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Will James cowl plug for RV-10 |
Guys, this is off topic but it is the only way I can get through to the
list. I've been unable to post directly to the list and e-mails to the
webmaster have gone unanswered. The only way to get through is by replying
to previous posts. Any one with suggestions for correcting this problem?
BTW: the James cowl is awesome!
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Number of 10 tails? |
That would be great if there were that many coming on line...
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Number of 10 tails?
The Oregon Aero seats in my finish kit had s/n 314. Do you suppose that
corresponds in any way to the number of finish kits delivered?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Number of 10 tails? |
| From: | "Stovall Todd Lt Col AF/A4RX" <Todd.Stovall(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
John,
I ordered my empacone on the 12th and ABF says it will here on Thursday.
Don't have have a clue as to what my kit number is though. Is it
listed somewhere?
Todd
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 2:42 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Number of 10 tails?
That would be great if there were that many coming on line...
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert
Gardner
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 11:19 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Number of 10 tails?
The Oregon Aero seats in my finish kit had s/n 314. Do you suppose that
corresponds in any way to the number of finish kits delivered?
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
40-422
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can't get through except by replying. |
Jesse,
Nope. Same e-mail address for last five years and no others (
boring ). Can't get through to Matt either. Can't figure it out. Correct
address for matronics in address book, it's worked many times before.
John Hasbrouck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
I have 31 hours on my IO-540 and the oil consumption is very low. Engine monitor
is an EIS 6000 and I have set the cylinder head temp limit to 435F. Problem
is the #1 cylinder is 30F degrees hotter than all the others and will quickly
reach its limit on an 80 degree ambient day climbing at 120mph, 25"/2600 rpm.
Pushing the nose down to 140mph and backing off the power will of course help.
But, its still quite a dance to just keep the temps from increasing and the aircraft
climbing.
The #1 cylinder is always the hottest and the #3 the coldest. From this I assume
the front dam needs to be trimmed down. I talked to another pilot at Vans
Homecoming and the highest CHT he has seen is 360. His high EGT's were also in
the low 1300, whereas I am seeing EGT's of 1525.
Cowling inlet and outlet are purely stock. I do not have the hot tunnel problem.
Climbing at full rich or leaned conservately (~1250 EGT) does not seem to
make much difference.
What is the experience of others flying? Is the temp distribution such that the
#1 is hottest and #3 coolest? Looking at my CHT & EGT is my engine monitor
out of calibration? Is watching the CHT's during climb a normal activity or never
of interest?
Would appreciate your experiences,
Bill DeRouchey
billderou(at)yahoo.com
flying fast, climbing slow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
Bill,
The CHT on cyl. #1 and #2 were running in the 415 - 420 degree range with
the other cyl running under 400 degrees. I took the air dams off and the
CHT on 1 and 2 are now in line with cyl 3, 4 ,5 and 6 at approx 365 - 375
degrees. I had a high EGT on a couple of cyl but after cleaning the
injectors its no longer a problem. EGT's are running well below 1400 so I'm
happy.
I believe Lycoming recommends keeping the CHT under 400 and the EGT under
1400. I have right at 30 hours on my IO-540 also with very low oil
consumption. Oil sample analysis looked good at 25 hour oil change.
Mark
>From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
>Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 17:11:14 -0700 (PDT)
>
>I have 31 hours on my IO-540 and the oil consumption is very low. Engine
>monitor is an EIS 6000 and I have set the cylinder head temp limit to 435F.
>Problem is the #1 cylinder is 30F degrees hotter than all the others and
>will quickly reach its limit on an 80 degree ambient day climbing at
>120mph, 25"/2600 rpm. Pushing the nose down to 140mph and backing off the
>power will of course help. But, its still quite a dance to just keep the
>temps from increasing and the aircraft climbing.
>
> The #1 cylinder is always the hottest and the #3 the coldest. From this
>I assume the front dam needs to be trimmed down. I talked to another pilot
>at Vans Homecoming and the highest CHT he has seen is 360. His high EGT's
>were also in the low 1300, whereas I am seeing EGT's of 1525.
>
> Cowling inlet and outlet are purely stock. I do not have the hot tunnel
>problem. Climbing at full rich or leaned conservately (~1250 EGT) does not
>seem to make much difference.
>
> What is the experience of others flying? Is the temp distribution such
>that the #1 is hottest and #3 coolest? Looking at my CHT & EGT is my engine
>monitor out of calibration? Is watching the CHT's during climb a normal
>activity or never of interest?
>
> Would appreciate your experiences,
> Bill DeRouchey
> billderou(at)yahoo.com
> flying fast, climbing slow
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cylinder head temps |
Bill,
I had very similar CHT issues initially. My #1 cylinder was (and still is) a
bit hotter than the others. I had problems with CHT over temps in a climb.
The first thing I looked at was the entrance vs exit area of the cowl. I've
heard recommendations that the cowl exit area should be 120 to 133% of the inlet
area. This is because the air is being heated and expands on its way
through. I looked at some rough estimates on the stock design and it is somewhere
between 110 and 120% depending on how you estimate it. Therefore, I took the
approach of increasing the exit area to about 133% of the inlet (see my post
titled: My tunnel heat fix for details). Although it did reduce the heat in my
tunnel, the reason for and result of the change was to reduce my CHTs in a
climb.
After the fix I climbed from T/O to 11500' full power at 105 knots and never
saw CHTs above about 420 or so.
I am reluctant to trim the #1 cylinder baffle air dam until I fly in some
cold weather this winter. I don't want to create a winter over cooling problem
while trying to fix a summer over heating problem.
Jim
40134
In a message dated 9/19/2006 8:14:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
billderou(at)yahoo.com writes:
I have 31 hours on my IO-540 and the oil consumption is very low. Engine
monitor is an EIS 6000 and I have set the cylinder head temp limit to 435F.
Problem is the #1 cylinder is 30F degrees hotter than all the others and will
quickly reach its limit on an 80 degree ambient day climbing at 120mph, 25"/2600
rpm. Pushing the nose down to 140mph and backing off the power will of
course help. But, its still quite a dance to just keep the temps from increasing
and the aircraft climbing.
The #1 cylinder is always the hottest and the #3 the coldest. From this I
assume the front dam needs to be trimmed down. I talked to another pilot at
Vans Homecoming and the highest CHT he has seen is 360. His high EGT's were also
in the low 1300, whereas I am seeing EGT's of 1525.
Cowling inlet and outlet are purely stock. I do not have the hot tunnel
problem. Climbing at full rich or leaned conservately (~1250 EGT) does not seem
to make much difference.
What is the experience of others flying? Is the temp distribution such that
the #1 is hottest and #3 coolest? Looking at my CHT & EGT is my engine
monitor out of calibration? Is watching the CHT's during climb a normal activity
or
never of interest?
Would appreciate your experiences,
Bill DeRouchey
_billderou(at)yahoo.com_ (mailto:billderou(at)yahoo.com)
flying fast, climbing slow
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Cylinder head temps |
John or other engine guys,
Can you really overcool an engine? I understand about shock cooling the
insides but keeping your whole engine in a nice cool temperature environment
sounds like a worthwhile goose chase. I'd keep mine at room temperature if
I could help it for tolerances, TBO, etc.
Rob Wright
#392
Dreaming about hooking a big vacuum to the lower cowl........
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cylinder head temps
Bill,
I had very similar CHT issues initially. My #1 cylinder was (and still is) a
bit hotter than the others. I had problems with CHT over temps in a climb.
The first thing I looked at was the entrance vs exit area of the cowl. I've
heard recommendations that the cowl exit area should be 120 to 133% of the
inlet area. This is because the air is being heated and expands on its way
through. I looked at some rough estimates on the stock design and it is
somewhere between 110 and 120% depending on how you estimate it. Therefore,
I took the approach of increasing the exit area to about 133% of the inlet
(see my post titled: My tunnel heat fix for details). Although it did reduce
the heat in my tunnel, the reason for and result of the change was to reduce
my CHTs in a climb.
After the fix I climbed from T/O to 11500' full power at 105 knots and never
saw CHTs above about 420 or so.
I am reluctant to trim the #1 cylinder baffle air dam until I fly in some
cold weather this winter. I don't want to create a winter over cooling
problem while trying to fix a summer over heating problem.
Jim
40134
In a message dated 9/19/2006 8:14:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
billderou(at)yahoo.com writes:
I have 31 hours on my IO-540 and the oil consumption is very low. Engine
monitor is an EIS 6000 and I have set the cylinder head temp limit to 435F.
Problem is the #1 cylinder is 30F degrees hotter than all the others and
will quickly reach its limit on an 80 degree ambient day climbing at 120mph,
25"/2600 rpm. Pushing the nose down to 140mph and backing off the power will
of course help. But, its still quite a dance to just keep the temps from
increasing and the aircraft climbing.
The #1 cylinder is always the hottest and the #3 the coldest. From this I
assume the front dam needs to be trimmed down. I talked to another pilot at
Vans Homecoming and the highest CHT he has seen is 360. His high EGT's were
also in the low 1300, whereas I am seeing EGT's of 1525.
Cowling inlet and outlet are purely stock. I do not have the hot tunnel
problem. Climbing at full rich or leaned conservately (~1250 EGT) does not
seem to make much difference.
What is the experience of others flying? Is the temp distribution such that
the #1 is hottest and #3 coolest? Looking at my CHT & EGT is my engine
monitor out of calibration? Is watching the CHT's during climb a normal
activity or never of interest?
Would appreciate your experiences,
Bill DeRouchey
billderou(at)yahoo.com
flying fast, climbing slow
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Nav
igator?RV10-List
.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
ronics.com/">http://wiki.matronics.com
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tdtpilot(at)aim.com |
ALLCON:
I'm back online! No longer with Avidyne, but I stuck around long enough to get
the employee discount . . .
TDT
40025
tdtpilot(at)aim.com
________________________________________________________________________
Check Out the new free AIM(R) Mail -- 2 GB of storage and industry-leading spam
and email virus protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com> |
tdtpilot(at)aim.com wrote:
> ALLCON:
> I'm back online! No longer with Avidyne, but I stuck around long
> enough to get the employee discount . . .
>
> TDT
> 40025
> tdtpilot(at)aim.com
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> **
> <http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100122638x1081283466x1074645346/aol?redir=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eaim%2Ecom%2Ffun%2Fmail%2F>
*Dang! I was hoping for an inside straight into some Avidyne stuff. :)
-Sean #40303
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Tru Trak Pitch Servo |
Installing my Tru Trak pitch servo, with the mod 2 torque enhanced version
arm with wheel and cable and apart from the lack of installation detail,
(well documented in the archives) I'm missing the centre screw to fix the
wheel in place.
Can anyone who may have this version, tell me how long that screw is and how
is it locked or fixed in place? Tight, Loctite, lock washer, she'll be
right?
John 40315 (finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
Testing to see if this e-mail shows up on the list. I resubscribed but did
not receive a confirmation e-mail.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Baggage door cut out |
Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for a
while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut out.
Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for doublers?
Can't find anything in my plans so far.
John Hasbrouck
#40264 fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LIKE2LOOP(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety Alert WD-415 weldment |
In a message dated 9/17/2006 10:17:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
armywrights(at)adelphia.net writes:
when Vic completed his plane the parts available were only welded on the one
side of the nut. Since then the nuts come welded on both sides. Good
judgment always prevails, but with the new welded type there may be no structural
reason to use the extruded aftermarket brackets.
The all aluminum (after kit market) parts are MUCH thicker, more threads
to grip, no weld to break (or adjacent weak metal) and have a much more solid
base that will accept a countersink and allow the cover plate to be dimpled
and flush riveted. This is a no brainer to buy the part for a few bucks and get
peace of mind and a better part.
Steve
Stephen G. Blank,DDS
RV-10 #40499 Finishing the Elevators
Cessna 170b Flyer
Port St Lucie, FL
772-475-5556 cell
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show cutting an oval
hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the plans show the hole
to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do it and each one gives me
nightmares of a buggered job.
Any suggestions?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
John,
Mine is still in the scrap bin and I only need to build the doors, windows and
fairings. I can't see anywhere in any other parts of the plans that it gets used.
I used the trim package for doublers and such but I always eyed that piece
and held off because I didn't think there was ANYWAY Van's could have just given
me a free SF of aluminum :)
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Hasbrouck <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2006 2:08 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Baggage door cut out
>
>
>Great to have com restored! Been on last assigned heading and alt. for a
>while! The question that I want to ask concerns the baggage door cut out.
>Is there a use for it in the future plans or can I cut it up for doublers?
>Can't find anything in my plans so far.
>
>John Hasbrouck
>#40264 fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting an oval hole |
John,
It's only for the passing of the trim cables and not that critical. I hand drew
mine and just used a uni bit in the middle then nibbled it out with a nibbler
and deburred. you can pass the trim cable through to se if you have any areas
that may hang up. It is fun to route these when your done, actually it's a pain
but I used a clothes hanger to pull it through.
Rick S.
40185
-----Original Message-----
>From: johngoodman <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2006 2:24 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
>
>
>I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show cutting an oval
hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the plans show the hole
to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do it and each one gives
me nightmares of a buggered job.
>Any suggestions?
>
>John
>
>--------
>#40572 Empennage
>N711JG reserved
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com> |
| Subject: | Cutting an oval hole |
John,
Go here ( http://www.jessen-RV10.com ) and go to Empennage, HS, Page 8-7,
then see step #4. Click on the picture to get a better view.
John Jessen
#40328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 2:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cutting an oval hole
-->
I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show cutting an
oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables. the plans show the
hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways to do it and each one
gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
Any suggestions?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage door cut out |
Rick, Tim et. al.
Thanks for the reply. I also found it hard to believe Van would supply
such a nice piece of scrap . On to antenna doublers I go.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cutting an oval hole |
John, in retrospect, this looks a lot worse than it is - like so many
things on the 10.
I found that the left hole needs to be enlarged anyway, to keep from
cutting the trim cable housing. Others probably know better methods,
but I drilled a stater hole, then cut to the line with a carbide burr
on a cheap ($5.00!!) die grinder from Harbor Freight and deburred.
John Ackerman
40458 wings
On Sep 20, 2006, at 2:24 PM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> I'm in the early stages of the Horizontal Stab and the plans show
> cutting an oval hole in two of the leading ribs for the trim cables.
> the plans show the hole to be 1.5" by .5". I can think of lots of ways
> to do it and each one gives me nightmares of a buggered job.
> Any suggestions?
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Empennage
> N711JG reserved
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=62844#62844
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Questions from a beginner |
Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
reading
about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the list
experts. They are:
* I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage floor.
Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of a 3 car
garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down (versus
painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any comments or
recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
* With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
still
represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame dimplier?
* Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they claim
(versus other hand squeezers)?
* I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
squeezers.
Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the use of
pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
* Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
systems
etc) when completing the empennage kit?
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Questions from a beginner |
Hi Les,
I'm in a two car garage, built all thru the wings on just one side, the
fuse needed both halves. See the rest below.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Kearney
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Questions from a beginner
Hi
As an RV10 wannabe, I am close to ordering the empennage kit. In
anticipation of this I have been organizing a garage work space and
reading about the required tools. To that I have a few questions for the
list experts. They are:
=B7 I have been thinking of using epoxy paint on my garage
floor. Application is going to be problematic as I can only do 1 bay of
a 3 car garage. I am wondering if I should be putting a foam pad down
(versus painting) as it will be easier on the feet when working. Any
comments or recommendations as to workspace floor treatment?
I painted my floor with Rustolium garage floor kit, but it takes more
than they say...needed? Not really If I were to do it again I would hire
a pro and have it done with commercial epoxy urethane. I did put down
interlocking floor matts and found them to be very beneficial for the
legs and feet. Picked them up at Sears.
=B7 With a quick build kit does the DRDT-2 hand dimpling tool
still represent a worthwhile advantage over the "standard" c-frame
dimplier?
I used the standard C-frame but everyone I talked to said they love
the DRDT-2. I would go with the DRDT if I were to do it again just for
the noise factor!!!
=B7 Is the Cleaveland Tools "Main Squeeze" as good as they
claim (versus other hand squeezers)?
Don't know, I used a pneumatic squeezer from start to finish and you
would have to pry that from my cold dead hands, it's that good.
=B7 I have read a number of positive posts about pneumatic
squeezers. Again with a QB kit, is this a worthwhile investment? Is the
use of pneumatic squeezers difficult to master?
I'm slow build....I would still get it, sell it in an hour on the RV
list when your done, they are in demand when used and from another RV
builder...that good...really.
=B7 Are their any decisions that I need to make (i.e. lighting
systems etc) when completing the empennage kit?
Lighting? not really but wiring for it yes, static ports and runs.
Others will chime but for the tail if you can do your wiring runs and
put in your rudder cables before the top is on it's easier. I crawled
into mine later..not that big of a deal. Maybe your antennas could be
drilled and doublers put in, strobe power pack mounts if your putting it
in there. lot of little but doable later things.
Cheers
Les
RV wannabe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Carbon Fiber tape |
I was discussing HOW to put the windows in the rV 10 with a guy currentl
y building a Lancair IV retract/pressurized. He suggested putting 1 1/2
inch wide Carbon Fiber tape over the window edges to help prevent them
from cracking. He also said he would put it over the seam between the c
abin cover and fuselage and the cabin cover and empenage. Does any one
have experience with Carbon tape? I knwo West Systems sells some that
is compatitble with their epoxy. Would this be a good idea? What has
everbody used to fill in the seam between the cabin cover and fuselage/e
mpenage? I think Microballoons would eventually crack in these areas.
VIC.........are you seeing any stress cracks on your plane? What did
you use in these areas?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449 Cowling/Baffling
________________________________________________________________________
I was discussing HOW to put the windows in the rV 10 with a guy
currently building a Lancair IV retract/pressurized. He suggested
putting 1 1/2 inch wide Carbon Fiber tape over the window edges to help
prevent them from cracking. He also said he would put it over the
seam between the cabin cover and fuselage and the cabin cover and empen
age. Does any one have experience with Carbon tape? I
knwo West Systems sells some that is compatitble with their epoxy.
Would this be a good idea? What has everbody used to fill i
n the seam between the cabin cover and fuselage/empenage? I
think Microballoons would eventually crack in these areas. V
IC.........are you seeing any stress cracks on your plane? What di
d you use in these areas?
Thanks,
DEAN
40449 Cowling/Baffling
______________________
__________________________________________________
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