RV10-Archive.digest.vol-br
November 03, 2006 - November 12, 2006
the bulkhead....
However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the phone, and all
are set up.....
Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton to
complete the setup.
But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to finally fly
the RV-10...........It's superb.
I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D, F-16A/B/C/D,
F-117. F-15...
So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers only....responds
beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost like the Thunderbirds
(thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully handling and forgiving airframe.
Try it......you'll like it!
Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
Check 6 - Grumpy
P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
_____
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! |
Congrats Grumpy!
Isn't the A-7D an odd ball in the mix?
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: gengrumpy(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 11:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!!
Please pardon if in insult any of you.
I am pleased to announce that N184JM, RV#40404, Rv-10, achieved first
flight today, 3 Nov06. I got the DAR release from Mel, yesterday (who
did the 2 beautiful birds in CO last year) yesterday. Mel was an
absolute wonderful set of eyes to find things I had overlooked, and
cleared me for flight yesterday. I strongly recommed Mel (Dallas Area)
for any RV-10 clearances!
Let me digress a little about N184JM.
I began work on 184JM in June of 05 with the tail kit. (That's after
my wife DeSha decided I should do this, prodeed by help from old AF
friends.....). I decided to do my build in TX although we live in TN.
Why did we do this???
Our good, long time friend Paul Orf lives in TX, and over several
bottles of Beefeaters he convinced me that we should build this bird in
his hangar facility in TX. He claimed that he had all the tools, so it
would be easy and it wouldn't cost me as much....
So, the tooth fairy said what?????
18 months later, uncountable trips to TX, and wearing thin on my
friends (and after we drained numeroous Beefeters bottles), N184JM flew
on 3 Nov 2006.
Today, I put 2 sorties on her, for a total of about 3.5 hrs total.
Aerosport Power built IO-540 engine, special built 2 bladed prop by
Johnnie Downs, the best prop guy in TX (now in Arkansas).
Minor hiccups (as expected). Panel is from Davd Buckwalter of
Avionice Systems in Leesburg, VA. Dual Cheltons plus GRT 6000 EIS.
Programming manuals from both GRT and Cheltons are the pits. After
lots of time on the phone, get all the bugs worked out. Except the AHRS
from Chelton that has been promised for months now.....all I have is
wires behind the bulkhead....
However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the phone,
and all are set up.....
Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton to
complete the setup.
But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to
finally fly the RV-10...........It's superb.
I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D,
F-16A/B/C/D, F-117. F-15...
So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers
only....responds beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost like
the Thunderbirds (thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully handling and
forgiving airframe.
Try it......you'll like it!
Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
Check 6 - Grumpy
P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine trouble shoots |
DejaVu wrote:
> Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary.
> I would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome
> numbers.
>
> 1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
> with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think?
Right for carb, low by factor of ten for injection.
> 2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal.
> 3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with this?
Not too high. EGT relates to mixture, not power output. You can achieve
same EGT at 1700 as at cruise, but at 1700 it isn't important, because
you are at way below 50 percent power.
> 4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
> inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal?
Yes, you are putting more load on the engine with constant power.
> 5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
> before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on
> the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the
> engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was
> pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct
> direction?
Something else is involved. Adjusting the idle mixture one turn should
not affect your partial power much, but if you have Bendix/Precision
injection 1 full turn is too much. Make adjustments one notch at a time.
Quarter turn is likely what you needed.
> 6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
> Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
> didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring.
>
> BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs.
>
> Anh
> #141
> *
>
>
> *
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Erickson" <john.erickson(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! |
Hah, you think you envy his speed...Congrats Grumpy from another viper
driver...
John "Droopy" Erickson
#40208 Wings
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Wright
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 8:41 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!!
Awesome. It's no race, but I envy your completion speed!
Rob Wright
#392
Tailcone attach
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 10:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!!
Please pardon if in insult any of you.
I am pleased to announce that N184JM, RV#40404, Rv-10, achieved first flight
today, 3 Nov06. I got the DAR release from Mel, yesterday (who did the 2
beautiful birds in CO last year) yesterday. Mel was an absolute wonderful
set of eyes to find things I had overlooked, and cleared me for flight
yesterday. I strongly recommed Mel (Dallas Area) for any RV-10 clearances!
Let me digress a little about N184JM.
I began work on 184JM in June of 05 with the tail kit. (That's after my
wife DeSha decided I should do this, prodeed by help from old AF
friends.....). I decided to do my build in TX although we live in TN. Why
did we do this???
Our good, long time friend Paul Orf lives in TX, and over several bottles of
Beefeaters he convinced me that we should build this bird in his hangar
facility in TX. He claimed that he had all the tools, so it would be easy
and it wouldn't cost me as much....
So, the tooth fairy said what?????
18 months later, uncountable trips to TX, and wearing thin on my friends
(and after we drained numeroous Beefeters bottles), N184JM flew on 3 Nov
2006.
Today, I put 2 sorties on her, for a total of about 3.5 hrs total.
Aerosport Power built IO-540 engine, special built 2 bladed prop by Johnnie
Downs, the best prop guy in TX (now in Arkansas).
Minor hiccups (as expected). Panel is from Davd Buckwalter of Avionice
Systems in Leesburg, VA. Dual Cheltons plus GRT 6000 EIS.
Programming manuals from both GRT and Cheltons are the pits. After lots of
time on the phone, get all the bugs worked out. Except the AHRS from
Chelton that has been promised for months now.....all I have is wires behind
the bulkhead....
However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the phone, and all
are set up.....
Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton to
complete the setup.
But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to finally fly
the RV-10...........It's superb.
I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D, F-16A/B/C/D,
F-117. F-15...
So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers only....responds
beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost like the Thunderbirds
(thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully handling and forgiving airframe.
Try it......you'll like it!
Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
Check 6 - Grumpy
P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
_____
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! |
Congratulations! Short building time, was it a QB Kit?
Rob Kermanj
On Nov 3, 2006, at 11:35 PM, gengrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> Please pardon if in insult any of you.
>
> I am pleased to announce that N184JM, RV#40404, Rv-10, achieved
> first flight today, 3 Nov06. I got the DAR release from Mel,
> yesterday (who did the 2 beautiful birds in CO last year)
> yesterday. Mel was an absolute wonderful set of eyes to find
> things I had overlooked, and cleared me for flight yesterday. I
> strongly recommed Mel (Dallas Area) for any RV-10 clearances!
>
> Let me digress a little about N184JM.
>
> I began work on 184JM in June of 05 with the tail kit. (That's
> after my wife DeSha decided I should do this, prodeed by help from
> old AF friends.....). I decided to do my build in TX although we
> live in TN. Why did we do this???
>
> Our good, long time friend Paul Orf lives in TX, and over several
> bottles of Beefeaters he convinced me that we should build this
> bird in his hangar facility in TX. He claimed that he had all the
> tools, so it would be easy and it wouldn't cost me as much....
>
> So, the tooth fairy said what?????
>
> 18 months later, uncountable trips to TX, and wearing thin on my
> friends (and after we drained numeroous Beefeters bottles), N184JM
> flew on 3 Nov 2006.
>
> Today, I put 2 sorties on her, for a total of about 3.5 hrs total.
> Aerosport Power built IO-540 engine, special built 2 bladed prop by
> Johnnie Downs, the best prop guy in TX (now in Arkansas).
>
> Minor hiccups (as expected). Panel is from Davd Buckwalter of
> Avionice Systems in Leesburg, VA. Dual Cheltons plus GRT 6000 EIS.
>
> Programming manuals from both GRT and Cheltons are the pits.
> After lots of time on the phone, get all the bugs worked out.
> Except the AHRS from Chelton that has been promised for months
> now.....all I have is wires behind the bulkhead....
>
> However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the
> phone, and all are set up.....
>
> Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton
> to complete the setup.
>
> But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to
> finally fly the RV-10...........It's superb.
>
> I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D, F-16A/
> B/C/D, F-117. F-15...
>
> So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
>
> The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers
> only....responds beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost
> like the Thunderbirds (thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully
> handling and forgiving airframe.
>
> Try it......you'll like it!
>
> Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
>
> Check 6 - Grumpy
>
> P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Engine trouble shoots |
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary. I
would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome
numbers.
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with
the boost pump on. A little low don't you think? If it truly is that
number, that would definitely be a little low. My question would be,
=93are
you absolutely sure you have the right sensor and the right sensor
setting
in your engine monitor?=94 Would the engine even start with this low of
fuel
pressure.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. This
doesn=92t seem normal if your fuel pressure is truly 2.2PSI. Again,
check
that fuel pressure sensor.
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with
this?
Try swapping sensors on 1&5 with 2&4 and see if you still get the same
high
readings. If so, then try hooking up the wires for 2 to the sensor for
6
(while it is still in 6) and see if it still reads that high. If so,
then
you either have bad sensors or bad wiring.
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch
as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No clue whatsoever.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before
the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on the fuel
servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the engine to
run
rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was pro'ly too
aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct direction?
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS. Hall
effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch didn't
appear
to make a difference. Will check wiring. The Alt field (as Van=92s
calls it)
switch makes about 3-5 Amps difference in my current draw on the Dynon
ammeter shunt. Are you sure the alternator is working? If not, that
would
account for your low voltage, probably. You shouldn=92t be drawing 4
amps
when the alternator is running, unless your sensor is in a place where
you
would see all current draw in the system not accounting for the amount
of
charging you are getting. We have ours setup between the battery and
the
bus/alternator (it sounds like this is where yours is) and it shows
total/overall current into or out of the battery.
BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs. With or without the pilot? :-)
Anh
#141
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/3/2006
--
11/3/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing and Fuselage Dolly |
Wing and Fuselage DollyI bought two last week when I saw the add. They
also have a 10% off coupon in their most recent mailer - so I got them
for $26.99. Hard to build it for that.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: John W. Cox
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 6:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Wing and Fuselage Dolly
Harbor Freight is offering a 1,000 pound capacity, Model 94778 Dolly
capable of being easily converted into a slick wing dolly or fuselage
rotisserie. Can be used for inverting aircraft fuselage and completing
difficult riveting, interior canopy sanding or instrument wiring tasks -
inverted.
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/94000-94999/94778.pdf price is
$29.99 and worthy of competition to the wood unit displayed on Tim's
site. No affiliation or business dealings, just information - "don't
shoot the messenger".
John Cox
#40600
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
It's a little early for me to commit (still doing elevators), but it looks interesting
to me. Is there any head clearance issue with the back seat passengers?
John
--------
#40572 Empennage - starting Elevators!
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72269#72269
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grumpy's RV-10 Flies!!! |
Congratulations!
I know it is not the highest on your priorities while flying the first
few hours, but how is Accuracy Avionics overhead console working out.
Are you getting enough air?
Larry Rosen
#356
gengrumpy(at)aol.com wrote:
> Please pardon if in insult any of you.
>
> I am pleased to announce that N184JM, RV#40404, Rv-10, achieved first
> flight today, 3 Nov06. I got the DAR release from Mel, yesterday (who
> did the 2 beautiful birds in CO last year) yesterday. Mel was an
> absolute wonderful set of eyes to find things I had overlooked, and
> cleared me for flight yesterday. I strongly recommed Mel (Dallas
> Area) for any RV-10 clearances!
>
> Let me digress a little about N184JM.
>
> I began work on 184JM in June of 05 with the tail kit. (That's after
> my wife DeSha decided I should do this, prodeed by help from old AF
> friends.....). I decided to do my build in TX although we live in
> TN. Why did we do this???
>
> Our good, long time friend Paul Orf lives in TX, and over several
> bottles of Beefeaters he convinced me that we should build this bird
> in his hangar facility in TX. He claimed that he had all the tools,
> so it would be easy and it wouldn't cost me as much....
>
> So, the tooth fairy said what?????
>
> 18 months later, uncountable trips to TX, and wearing thin on my
> friends (and after we drained numeroous Beefeters bottles), N184JM
> flew on 3 Nov 2006.
>
> Today, I put 2 sorties on her, for a total of about 3.5 hrs total.
> Aerosport Power built IO-540 engine, special built 2 bladed prop by
> Johnnie Downs, the best prop guy in TX (now in Arkansas).
>
> Minor hiccups (as expected). Panel is from Davd Buckwalter of
> Avionice Systems in Leesburg, VA. Dual Cheltons plus GRT 6000 EIS.
>
> Programming manuals from both GRT and Cheltons are the pits. After
> lots of time on the phone, get all the bugs worked out. Except the
> AHRS from Chelton that has been promised for months now.....all I have
> is wires behind the bulkhead....
>
> However, once past the GRT and Chelton obligitory time on the phone,
> and all are set up.....
>
> Wonderful displays - BOTH. Can't wait to get my AHRS from Chelton to
> complete the setup.
>
> But, for those of you who really want to know what it's like to
> finally fly the RV-10...........It's superb.
>
> I have a data point or two to reference from.....F-105, A-7D,
> F-16A/B/C/D, F-117. F-15...
>
> So, Grumpy, what the hell are you telling me?
>
> The RV-10 is an outstanding airplane! Flies with fingers
> only....responds beautifully to all inputs. Flies formation almost
> like the Thunderbirds (thrust, not controls.....). Beautifully
> handling and forgiving airframe.
>
> Try it......you'll like it!
>
> Now....who's going to help me with the interior<<<
>
> Check 6 - Grumpy
>
> P.S., Thanks for the checkout, Alex!!!!
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *
>
>
> *
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Console |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
John,
No clearance problems for the rear seat pax. I have been in and out several
times and my head doesn't even come close. When I first tried to stick a DVD
player in it, I did have rear seat pax issues. After talking to Scott Schmidt,
I decided to put my DVD screens/player in the rear of the front seats.
There is plenty of head clearance with this overhead console. As a matter of
fact, there is so much that we are doing another model just a little bit wider
(because there is plenty of headroom).
There is plenty of space underneath the console to hide GPS antennas and such.
I'll take some more pics of the second prototype and post them as soon as I can.
Zack
johngoodman wrote:
> It's a little early for me to commit (still doing elevators), but it looks interesting
to me. Is there any head clearance issue with the back seat passengers?
> John
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72290#72290
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine trouble shoots/Update |
Thanks to all who chimed in. Ran the engine (0SMOH D4A5) again today
with the help of
a local mechanic. Below are updates, only item 3 is still problematic:
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think?
Reprograming the EIS-6000 fixed it.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. Still
the same
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with
this?
Same reading today. The mechanic confirmed CHT's on #2 &4 are also
higher than the rest.
He felt for sure there's a small lint or something inside the #2 and #4
injector lines going
to the fuel distributor on top of the engine. He was surprised that I
don't have a
gascolator. Anyone installed a gascolator? and where is a convenient
place to put it that
gives access for draining. And what kind of filter is that that came
with Van's fuel pump
(Fuel Flow Performance). i.e. do you need a gascolator on top of this
filter?
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No update.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on
the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the
engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was
pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct
direction?
Yesterday I though the engine ran lean. Today the mechanic thought my
engine rans rich.
Minor leaning of the mixture resulted in a small 20rmp rise before the
engine quits.
I couldn't hear the 20rpm difference but he did.
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring.
Loose plug on the back of the alternator. Didn't realize there's a
locking tab on
top of the plug to prevent it from backing out. It read 14.5V/4Amp
today.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 11:03 PM
To: RV10
Subject: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary.
I would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome
numbers.
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think? If it truly is
that number, that would definitely be a little low. My question would
be, =93are you absolutely sure you have the right sensor and the right
sensor setting in your engine monitor?=94 Would the engine even start
with this low of fuel pressure.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal.
This doesn=92t seem normal if your fuel pressure is truly 2.2PSI.
Again, check that fuel pressure sensor.
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with
this? Try swapping sensors on 1&5 with 2&4 and see if you still get the
same high readings. If so, then try hooking up the wires for 2 to the
sensor for 6 (while it is still in 6) and see if it still reads that
high. If so, then you either have bad sensors or bad wiring.
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No clue
whatsoever.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on
the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the
engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was
pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct
direction?
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring. The Alt field
(as Van=92s calls it) switch makes about 3-5 Amps difference in my
current draw on the Dynon ammeter shunt. Are you sure the alternator is
working? If not, that would account for your low voltage, probably.
You shouldn=92t be drawing 4 amps when the alternator is running, unless
your sensor is in a place where you would see all current draw in the
system not accounting for the amount of charging you are getting. We
have ours setup between the battery and the bus/alternator (it sounds
like this is where yours is) and it shows total/overall current into or
out of the battery.
BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs. With or without the pilot? J
Anh
#141
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List -- Release Date:
11/3/2006
--
11/3/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
There should be lots of stuff in the archives addressing these issues.
But, here is some.
*You can see how Deems the static tubing here
<http://www.deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2035%20Access%20covers%20and%20Floor%20panels/index.html>
look at pictures DSC03048, 49 & 50. The only change I would make is I
would put the tee from the two ports in the center, with the outlet up.
__l__
Look here for some photo's from Tim's site.
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html>. Small
kids work well if you wait until after the fuse is attached and the
canopy is on. (Hay Tim remember those days when you were a BUILDER). If
you look close you can see some of the wiring and static lines.
Dan has a tip to use some 1/4" id tubing from a hardware store as an
anti chafe on the tubing. Here:
<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/finishing/20051228/index.html> Some
routings here:
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030210.html>
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030212.html>
<http://www.rvproject.com/20030831.html>
Larry Rosen
#356
Sean Blair wrote:
>
> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing how
> you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax, etc.?
> This would really help.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> (40225)
>
> *
>
>
> *
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eddie G." <silentlight(at)verizon.net> |
I got some info from Sanchem today, but wasn't much help. Do you clean with Safeguard
CC-6100C and then apply AFS gray, or do you apply CC-6100A+B after the
CC-6100C and before AFS?
Thanx...
[quote="Todd.Stovall(at)pentagon."]I just got through priming my VS, Rudder, and
the rear spar to the HS this weekend. I used the AFS gray primer/sealer and
liked the results. My application wasn't perfect, but I honestly believe it
was my technique ( or lack there of) that was the culprit. I chose AFS because
it's water based so lower flammability issues (I'm working in my basement),
lower fumes, and toxicity. I still wore a mask, but no one upstairs complained
and I did have a window and door open with a fan running. I really can't
rank it because I haven't used anything else, but it was easy to apply (Harbor
Freight HVLP gun) and cleanup. I'm going to start smashing rivets tonight
so I'll let you know how it holds up to that process. So I tentatively give
it a thumbs up, but we'll see for sure after I abuse it a little.
FYI, I also chose to go the Sanchem route vs. alodine, again trying to avoid
toxic chemicals to maximum extent possible. This was also easy to use, but it
didn't give me a warm fuzzy that the treatment is actually took. The color
change was pretty uneven in places and on the whole, very light. I followed
the directions to the letter so hopefully all is well, but there's know way
to know for sure.
Todd
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72319#72319
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailcone rear nav light & static system |
Not flying but.....
The only rear nav/strobe light I know of is the Whelen from vans.
Periheliondesign has an expensive ($139) retrofit to convert the nav
light to led here <http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledlights.htm>
Static ports from
Cleaveland,
Vans pop rivet style,
Evans Aviation <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/Other%20Products.htm>
Safe Air 1 <http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm>
See some info on my web site here: <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/options.html>
Larry Rosen
#356
Dave Leikam wrote:
> For those who are flying, what are your opinions for the best choice
> for a static system and rudder lighting? Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> tailcone in clecos
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Sean Blair
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, November 03, 2006 7:55 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: tailcone
>
> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing
> how you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax,
> etc.? This would really help.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> (40225)
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tailcone rear nav light & static system |
Not flying but.....
The only rear nav/strobe light I know of is the Whelen from vans.
Periheliondesign has an expensive ($139) retrofit to convert the nav
light to led here <http://www.periheliondesign.com/ledlights.htm>
Static ports from
Cleaveland,
Vans pop rivet style,
Evans Aviation <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/Other%20Products.htm>
Safe Air 1 <http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm>
See some info on my web site here: <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/options.html>
Larry Rosen
#356
Dave Leikam wrote:
> For those who are flying, what are your opinions for the best choice
> for a static system and rudder lighting? Thanks.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> tailcone in clecos
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Sean Blair
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, November 03, 2006 7:55 AM
> *Subject:* RV10-List: tailcone
>
> Does anyone have good pics of the inside of the tailcone showing
> how you plumbed the static lines, wire runs and/or conduit, coax,
> etc.? This would really help.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Sean Blair
>
> (40225)
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stovall Todd Lt Col AF/A4RX" <Todd.Stovall(at)pentagon.af.mil> |
Eddie,
Clean with the "C", rinse, mix the "A" & "B" 1:1, apply, rinse and let
air dry. Shooting with compressed iar will speed the process, just make
sure you are wearing gloves when handling the parts so you don't
contaminate them. Within 12 hours apply the AFS primer. This is the
same sequense if you were using alumiprep (which I'm going to try next
time vs. the "C" product), alodine, and any Brand-x epoxy primer.
Todd
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Eddie G.
Sent: Sat 11/4/2006 8:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AFS primer
I got some info from Sanchem today, but wasn't much help. Do you clean
with Safeguard CC-6100C and then apply AFS gray, or do you apply
CC-6100A+B after the CC-6100C and before AFS?
Thanx...
[quote="Todd.Stovall(at)pentagon."]I just got through priming my VS,
Rudder, and the rear spar to the HS this weekend. I used the AFS gray
primer/sealer and liked the results. My application wasn't perfect, but
I honestly believe it was my technique ( or lack there of) that was the
culprit. I chose AFS because it's water based so lower flammability
issues (I'm working in my basement), lower fumes, and toxicity. I still
wore a mask, but no one upstairs complained and I did have a window and
door open with a fan running. I really can't rank it because I haven't
used anything else, but it was easy to apply (Harbor Freight HVLP gun)
and cleanup. I'm going to start smashing rivets tonight so I'll let
you know how it holds up to that process. So I tentatively give it a
thumbs up, but we'll see for sure after I abuse it a little.
FYI, I also chose to go the Sanchem route vs. alodine, again trying to
avoid toxic chemicals to maximum extent possible. This was also easy
to use, but it didn't give me a warm fuzzy that the treatment is
actually took. The color change was pretty uneven in places and on the
whole, very light. I followed the directions to the letter so
hopefully all is well, but there's know way to know for sure.
Todd
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72319#72319
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | uneven tire wear |
For the flying 10s: Are the tires wearing evenly? Any uneven wear on the
outboard edges of the mains? Trying to get some idea whether the toein
for the 10 is properly set by the factory legs and pilot holes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Engine trouble shoots/Update |
I've got some thoughts on two of your issues. The gascolator is no factor
and I think very few (if any) are installing them on the -10. My DAR (a
very experienced guy that runs an A&P university) said since our fuel sump
drains are the absolute lowest point in the system then a gascolator
wouldn't be of any benefit. Mostly important for high wing airplanes.
On the prop control movement, I have a thought but it's not based on
anything scientific. I have the same response, although not quite a full
inch before the prop responds. Since the prop is in high RPM and therefore
full flat, it's the throttle that's increasing the RPM, since we stop it at
whatever RPM you do your run-up at, then you are going to have to move the
prop control back far enough to get to the point where it would finally
command less RPM than you already have. Even at 2200 RPM you have to move
it a ways before anything happens since it would happily be allowing
2500-2700 depending on the engine if there was enough power available. Hope
that makes sense. If not, perhaps you can just rest well knowing that it's
all probably just fine. If you get the same response at a full power static
run, then I would say something was amiss.
Marcus
40286 - rapidly approaching 100 hours TT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots/Update
Thanks to all who chimed in. Ran the engine (0SMOH D4A5) again today with
the help of
a local mechanic. Below are updates, only item 3 is still problematic:
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi
with the boost pump on. A little low don't you think?
Reprograming the EIS-6000 fixed it.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. Still the
same
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with this?
Same reading today. The mechanic confirmed CHT's on #2 &4 are also higher
than the rest.
He felt for sure there's a small lint or something inside the #2 and #4
injector lines going
to the fuel distributor on top of the engine. He was surprised that I don't
have a
gascolator. Anyone installed a gascolator? and where is a convenient place
to put it that
gives access for draining. And what kind of filter is that that came with
Van's fuel pump
(Fuel Flow Performance). i.e. do you need a gascolator on top of this
filter?
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first
inch as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No update.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm
before the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on
the fuel servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the
engine to run rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was
pro'ly too aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct
direction?
Yesterday I though the engine ran lean. Today the mechanic thought my
engine rans rich.
Minor leaning of the mixture resulted in a small 20rmp rise before the
engine quits.
I couldn't hear the 20rpm difference but he did.
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS.
Hall effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch
didn't appear to make a difference. Will check wiring.
Loose plug on the back of the alternator. Didn't realize there's a locking
tab on
top of the plug to prevent it from backing out. It read 14.5V/4Amp today.
Anh
#141
----- Original Message -----
From: Jesse Saint <mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org>
Sent: Saturday, November 04, 2006 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header
with exhaust heat wrap. A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the
lower cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes
from the discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap
with great success. It's available at your local auto parts stores like
Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc. They come in various widths and lengths.
He used the 1" x 50' roll for about $35. Here's a weblink to one:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrco
de=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: zackrv8
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
Tim,
Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8,
I wrapped them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these
cables melted and were not able to move.
Zack
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>
> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
> the aluminum tape.
>
> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416
com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 11:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Engine trouble shoots
Ran my engine again today with two new Slicks. Below is the summary. I
would appreciate if anyone can provide insights to the troublesome numbers.
1. Fuel Pressure read 2.2psi at 1700rpm with boost pump off. 2.3psi with
the boost pump on. A little low don't you think? If it truly is that
number, that would definitely be a little low. My question would be, "are
you absolutely sure you have the right sensor and the right sensor setting
in your engine monitor?" Would the engine even start with this low of fuel
pressure.
2. Mags check resulted in about 100rpm drop on both mags. Normal. This
doesn't seem normal if your fuel pressure is truly 2.2PSI. Again, check
that fuel pressure sensor.
3. EGT on only #2 and #4 are high ~1500deg at 1700rpm. What up with this?
Try swapping sensors on 1&5 with 2&4 and see if you still get the same high
readings. If so, then try hooking up the wires for 2 to the sensor for 6
(while it is still in 6) and see if it still reads that high. If so, then
you either have bad sensors or bad wiring.
4. When cycling the prop lever MAP does not decrease during the first inch
as I was pulling the lever back. Is this normal? No clue whatsoever.
5. Pulling the mixture to idle cutoff resulted in no increase in rpm before
the engine quits - engine runs lean. Richened the adjustment on the fuel
servo one full turn in the direction of the "R-->"caused the engine to run
rough and quit after a few seconds at 1700rpm. That was pro'ly too
aggressive an adjustment but did I turn it in the correct direction?
6. Electrical system read 11.7V and -4Amp as measure by GRT EIS. Hall
effect sensor is installed on battery side. Cycling ALT switch didn't appear
to make a difference. Will check wiring. The Alt field (as Van's calls it)
switch makes about 3-5 Amps difference in my current draw on the Dynon
ammeter shunt. Are you sure the alternator is working? If not, that would
account for your low voltage, probably. You shouldn't be drawing 4 amps
when the alternator is running, unless your sensor is in a place where you
would see all current draw in the system not accounting for the amount of
charging you are getting. We have ours setup between the battery and the
bus/alternator (it sounds like this is where yours is) and it shows
total/overall current into or out of the battery.
BTW, she weighed in at 1625lbs. With or without the pilot? :-)
Anh
#141
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-- Release Date: 11/3/2006
--
11/3/2006
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
I used some similar stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for
the group. I was cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding
moisture and causing long term problems for the pipes. As I think about it,
holding moisture on something that gets really stinkin' hot is somewhat
doubtful in my mind but I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or
other concerns about wrapping the pipes.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with
exhaust heat wrap. A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower
cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the
discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great
success. It's available at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto,
Auto Zone, etc. They come in various widths and lengths. He used the 1" x
50' roll for about $35. Here's a weblink to one:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B
<http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=D
EI&mfrpartnumber=010101> &mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: zackrv8 <mailto:zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
Tim,
Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I
wrapped them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these cables
melted and were not able to move.
Zack
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>
> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
> the aluminum tape.
>
> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
For what it's worth: I remember in the literature included with the
Vetterman exhaust system, Larry warned against using automotive pipe wrap on
his
exhausts.
Jim
In a message dated 11/5/2006 8:13:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
coop85(at)bellsouth.net writes:
I used some similar stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for
the group. I was cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding
moisture and causing long term problems for the pipes. As I think about it
,
holding moisture on something that gets really stinkin=99 hot is some
what
doubtful in my mind but I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or
other
concerns about wrapping the pipes.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
____________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-se
rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with
exhaust heat wrap. A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower
cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the
discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great su
ccess. It's
available at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc
.
They come in various widths and lengths. He used the 1" x 50' roll for
about $35. Here's a weblink to one:
_http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode
=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101_
(http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode
=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101)
John Lenhardt
#40262
----- Original Message -----
From: _zackrv8_ (mailto:zackrv8(at)verizon.net)
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 1:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cables and heat
(mailto:zackrv8(at)verizon.net) >
Tim,
Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I
wrapped them in firesleeve. Definetly would be a bummer if these cables me
lted
and were not able to move.
Zack
Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:
> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.
> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark
> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check
> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.
>
> I found one thing and now have a suggestion. My prop governor
> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge
> of the heat muff area. You could tell from the sagging green
> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.
> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok. I'm
> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected
> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel
> sheath. My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape
> to provide some reflection of the heat. I think I should have
> taken one more step though. I have some fiberous, very high
> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick. I should have wrapped
> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with
> the aluminum tape.
>
> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed
> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat
> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around
> a couple areas of his exhaust. He had them near one of
> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for
> protection for the lines. I think this would be a good idea
> in a couple areas. So, as you're assembling the engine area,
> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within
> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.
> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding
> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
_http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416_
(http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416)
www.aeroelectric.com
www.kitlog.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
m/)
l
dersbooks.com/)
(http://www.homebuilthelp.com/)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List)
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Selector Valve Operation |
I have a stock selector valve. Fuel lines were installed by the book,
expecting that the lever would operate pointing upward. i.e. up and
left for left tank, up and right for right tank. I expected that it
would also work with it pointing down and left or right. Well, I only
get good fuel flow with it pointing down/left and down/right. I thought
the design was simply two tunnels in the valve shaft in a "+" shape so
that it would work in any of the four positions. Any idea why it didn't
work pointing upward?
Anh
#141
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cables and heat |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Scooter,
Roger that. I talked to Larry on the phone for about 15 minutes on this very
subject. He is totally against wrapping the pipes and also against coating the
pipes. I can't remember the exact converstaion (it was before LOE 2006), but
it has something to do with the pipes being a heat sink on an aircooled engine.
Zack
quote="ScooterF15"]For what it's worth: I remember in the literature included with
the Vetterman exhaust system, Larry warned against using automotive pipe
wrap on his exhausts.
Jim
In a message dated 11/5/2006 8:13:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, coop85(at)bellsouth.net
writes:
[quote]
I used some similar stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for
the group. I was cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding
moisture and causing long term problems for the pipes. As I think about it,
holding moisture on something that gets really stinkin hot is somewhat doubtful
in my mind but I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or other
concerns about wrapping the pipes.
Thanks,
Marcus
40286
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Cables and heat
Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with exhaust heat wrap.? A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the discoloring of the inside. He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great success. It's available at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc. They come in various widths and lengths. He used the 1" x 50' roll for about $35. Here's a weblink to one: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101 (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101)
John Lenhardt
#40262
>
> ---
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72512#72512
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve Operation |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Deja,
I think the "pointer" end of the fuel slector valve that comes with Van's kits
is supposed to filed down (not totally sure though). The longer "handle" end
becomes your handle AND pointer. Of course, I have an Andair valve and am not
totally sure if this is correct.
Zack
quote="wvu(at)ameritel.net"]I have a stock selector valve. Fuel lines were installed
by the book, expecting that the lever would operate pointing upward.
i.e. up and left for left tank, up and right for right tank. I expected that
it would also work with it pointing down and left or right. Well, I only
get good fuel flow with it pointing down/left and down/right. I thought the
design was simply two tunnels in the valve shaft in a "+" shape so that it would
work in any of the four positions. Any idea why it didn't work pointing
upward?
Anh
#141
> [b]
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72513#72513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net> |
Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is in
the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to just
measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure clearance.. thx
Steve d
40205
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Wow, Cool! New List Feature... [Please Read] |
Dear Listers,
By popular suggestion, I've written a substantial new code module for the Matronics
Email Lists system. Here's how it works...
During each November, I send out quite a few PBS-like "Please make a Contribution
to support your List" emails. Wouldn't it be cool if, once a member made a
Contribution, they didn't have to receive my support pleas anymore for the rest
of that year?
Well, that's exactly what I've written! Following this posting, anyone that makes
a List Contribution in 2006 will no longer receive my Contribution Pleas for
the rest of the year!
The best part is this not only applies to the Realtime distribution, but also the
Digest distribution! For those that have made a Contribution, the Daily Digest
email-version will be invisibly stripped of my requests as well! (Note that
my requests will still be present in the online versions of the Digests, List
Browse, and on the Forum site.)
For those submitting their Contribution by personal Check, please be sure to include
your email address along with your Check as this is what is used to determine
eligibility.
So, in a nutshell, here's how it works:
Make a Contribution = No more "Please Make a Contribution" messages!
How sweet is that? If that's not a great reason to jump on the Matronics Email
List Contribution site and make your donation today, I don't know what is!
Don't forget that there are some totally awesome free gifts to be had along with
your List Contribution this year!! Don't wait a minute longer to support your
Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your Support!!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power. Maintained
1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to 14,000 feet.
Jan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Turbo Subaru |
Hi Jan,
sounds great, what aircraft was it in, what was your TOFF weight?
Thx Werner
EAAINC(at)aol.com wrote:
> We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power.
> Maintained 1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to
> 14,000 feet.
>
> Jan
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aileron throw |
Steve,
I don't have my airplane handy, but I want to point out that I had to cut
around 3 or 4 inches off the top of each stick for clearance reasons. That
makes a big difference in clearance. Make sure that you take that into account
when someone gives you a full left to full right measurement.
Jim
In a message dated 11/6/2006 2:12:47 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
capsteve(at)adelphia.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
Can anyone (rv10) with their wings on tell me how much throw is in
the control stick in the aileron direction? Probably be easiest to just
measure from left sidewall to the stick deflected to the left and the
distance from the left sidewall to the stick with right deflection of
aileron. I'm scratch building a panel and need to ensure clearance.. thx
Steve d
40205
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Baggage Door Hinge |
I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins this we
ekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult to install the d
oor and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks like on my installation
once the door is installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I n
eed to install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door hing
e frame. Is this typicall to what other builders experienced?=0A=0Athanks
=0A =0ANiko=0A40188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org> |
| Subject: | Baggage Door Hinge |
The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks out just
a
little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is all sits flush,
you
will have a very hard time removing the pin, which is what you are
saying, I
think. You might want to check the plans and make sure you didn=92t
misread
the way you were supposed to install it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)itecusa.org"jesse(at)itecusa.org
HYPERLINK "http://www.itecusa.org"www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins this
weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult to install
the
door and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks like on my
installation
once the door is installed one can't pull out the hinge wire. In fact I
need to install the door hinge wire and door prior to riveting the door
hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders experienced?
thanks
Niko
40188
"http://www.aeroelectric.com"www.aeroelectric.com
"http://www.buildersbooks.com"www.buildersbooks.com
"http://www.kitlog.com"www.kitlog.com
"http://www.homebuilthelp.com"www.homebuilthelp.com
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
11/4/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/4/2006
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Good news.
John
>From: EAAINC(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Turbo Subaru
>Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 05:42:55 EST
>
>We flew the turbocharged Subaru H-6 yesterday. Lots of power. Maintained
>1800 fpm to 10,000 feet. The Turbo is sized for 30" to 14,000 feet.
>
>Jan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Niko,
Don't know if my first response went through, Ditto for me, I had to keep the pin
in the hinge to install the door but my install is pretty clean with nice,
small rounded openings top and bottom. I followed the directions to a TEE so I'm
not sure why we are different than others. If in the future I need to remove
the door I'll have to open the top enough to remove the hinge pin. I'm not worried
about wear so much and I polished the hinge parts prior to installing.
I never planned to paint the hinge because of paint peeling/chipping I have seen
on other hinges.
Rick S.
40185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Nikolaos Napoli <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies=0A=0AIt looked like I would have an e
asier time inserting the pin from the bottom rather than the top, however,
obviously this would not be acceptable as the pin could fall out during fli
ght. My hinge does stick out just a slight bit but it sticks out about the
same amount top and bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual talking a
bout this. Well I can always cut the hinge if I need to take it out. Mayb
e a light thinning of the diameter and some lubricating oil would get it in
/out. =0A=0AThanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message --
--=0AFrom: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)itecusa.org>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Baggag
e Door Hinge=0A=0A=0AThe design and the plans have it so the top of the hin
ge sticks out just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It i
s all sits flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin, which is
what you are saying, I think. You might want to check the plans and make
sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were supposed to install it.=0A =0AJe
sse Saint=0AI-TEC, Inc.=0Ajesse(at)itecusa.org=0Awww.itecusa.org=0AW: 352-465-
4545=0AC: 352-427-0285=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.co
m [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos Napol
i=0ASent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM=0ATo: Matronics=0ASubject: RV10
-List: Baggage Door Hinge=0A =0AI was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge
Frame to the Side Skins this weekend and noticed that once I do this it wi
ll be difficult to install the door and get the door hinge wire in place.
It looks like on my installation once the door is installed one can't pull
out the hinge wire. In fact I need to install the door hinge wire and door
prior to riveting the door hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other bu
ilders experienced?=0A =0Athanks=0A =0ANiko=0A40188=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0Aww
w.aeroelectric.com=0Awww.kitlog.com=0A=0A=0A=0A=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/
Navigator?RV10-List=0A =0A-- Release Date: 11/4/2006 =0A=0A--=0ANo virus f
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Gray" <rickgray(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baggage Door Hinge |
OK....here's 2 options that I came up with that will allow EASY removal
of the door with NO RISK of scratching the paint on the airplane:
1-install the cabin side of the hinge with platenuts....when/if you need
to remove the door you simply remove the platenut screws and the door
comes off WITH BOTH SIDES of the hinge....savvy??
2-drill a 3/32 hole in the longeron ABOVE the hinge pin. Make the pin
longer than it needs to be and you can easily remove the pin from INSIDE
the airplane. The small portion of the pin inside can be 'dressed up',
hidden, or covered by the headliner...your choice.....savvy??
Either option above allows you to recess the hinge more than the
plans....read: your hinge is NOT hangin' out in the breeze. Again...NO
CHANCE of scratching airplane paint.
I chose option 2 and am very pleased with the result.
No charge for this one :^).
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - too many projects to list - RV10
nearing completion
http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/
----- Original Message -----
From: Nikolaos Napoli
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
Jesse and Rob thanks yor your replies
It looked like I would have an easier time inserting the pin from the
bottom rather than the top, however, obviously this would not be
acceptable as the pin could fall out during flight. My hinge does stick
out just a slight bit but it sticks out about the same amount top and
bottom. I didn't see anything in the manual talking about this. Well I
can always cut the hinge if I need to take it out. Maybe a light
thinning of the diameter and some lubricating oil would get it in/out.
Thanks
Niko
40188
----- Original Message ----
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)itecusa.org>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2006 10:01:35 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
The design and the plans have it so the top of the hinge sticks out
just a little bit so you can pull the pin from the top. It is all sits
flush, you will have a very hard time removing the pin, which is what
you are saying, I think. You might want to check the plans and make
sure you didn=A2t misread the way you were supposed to install it.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Nikolaos
Napoli
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 9:40 AM
To: Matronics
Subject: RV10-List: Baggage Door Hinge
I was going to rivet the Baggage Door Hinge Frame to the Side Skins
this weekend and noticed that once I do this it will be difficult to
install the door and get the door hinge wire in place. It looks like on
my installation once the door is installed one can't pull out the hinge
wire. In fact I need to install the door hinge wire and door prior to
riveting the door hinge frame. Is this typicall to what other builders
experienced?
thanks
Niko
40188
www.aeroelectric.comwww.kitlog.comhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10
-List
-- Release Date: 11/4/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
11/4/2006
www.aeroelbuildersbooks.com/" target=_blank
rel=nofollow>www.buildersbooks.comwwA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List" target=_blank
rel======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | seat belts and airbags |
I received an email from my AMSAFE contact regarding development of an
airbag system for the RV10. My aircraft is setup for the four point
inertial belts for all four seats. They are considering working with my
aircraft for the airbag solution. After looking at their PDF of their
system it is apparent that the most probable solution would be a three
point airbag system for front seat occupants. Their timeframe for
development is 2nd quarter 2007. Unlike the Cirrus (four point inertial
harness) our seats are not designed to carry the compressed inflator
bottles or the sensors internally. I will keep the list advise if and
when there is any activity.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <mgeans(at)provide.net> |
All,
Since some postings have not always been directly about
building I was reviewing some mail and found this exerpt
that just might let us all forget our stresses for a
moment.
Enjoy,
Matt Geans
Builder Wanna-be
After every Qantas Airlines flight, pilots complete a gripe
sheet which conveys to the mechanics problems encountered
with the aircraft during the flight that need repair or
correction. The form used is a piece of paper on which the
pilot completes the top part listing the problem, which the
mechanics read and then respond in writing on the lower
half of the form what remedial action was taken, so the
pilot on the next flight of that plane can review the
formbefore taking off.
> Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers lack
a sense of humor. Here are some actual logged maintenance
complaints and responses with P = the problem logged by the
pilot, S = the solution and action taken by engineers.
Qantas, by the way, is the only major airline that has
never had an accident.
>
>
> P: Left inside main tyre almost needs replacement.
> S: Almost replaced left inside main tyre.
>
> P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough.
> S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft.
>
> P: Something loose in cockpit.
> S: Something tightened in cockpit.
>
> P: Dead bugs on windshield.
> S: Live bugs on back-order.
>
> P: Autopilot in altitude -hold mode produces a 200 feet
> per minute
> descent.
> S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.
>
> P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
> S: Evidence removed.
>
> P: DME volume unbelievably loud.
> S: DME volume set to more believable level.
>
> P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
> S: That's what they' re there for.
>
> P: IFF inoperative.
> S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
>
> P: Suspected crack in windshield.
> S: Suspect you're right.
>
> P: Number 3 engine missing.
> S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.
>
> P: Aircraft handles funny.
> S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right and be
> serious.
>
> P: Target radar hums.
> S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics.
>
> P: Mouse in cockpit.
> S: Cat installed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Sipp" <rsipp(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: uneven tire wear |
Because of the tilt (camber?) that the main gear assumes in flight, the
outboard portion of the tire always contacts the runway first on
touchdown and spin up. This characteristic of wearing the outboard
portion of main tires is common to all RVs.
More tire life can be had by rotating or "flipping" the tires on the rim
once or twice during the life of the tire.
Dick Sipp
40065
finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: David McNeill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 3:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: uneven tire wear
For the flying 10s: Are the tires wearing evenly? Any uneven wear on
the outboard edges of the mains? Trying to get some idea whether the
toein for the 10 is properly set by the factory legs and pilot holes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |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=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Night before the big election - Flutter Article |
Thank you for the reminder even if your message was only found in the
beginning of your subject. Who could forget!
JOhn G.
>From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV10-List: Night before the big election - Flutter Article
>Date: Mon, 6 Nov 2006 18:35:19 -0800
>
>Great article on Pages 98-101 of the September 2006, addition of Sport
>Aviation. One passage I found of value was What some pilots and
>aircraft owners may not realize is that simply repainting can add
>sufficient weight to unbalance the ruddervators and make them susceptible
>to flutter. We learned in school that all control surfaces ALWAYS get
>balanced after paint.
>
>I continue to take exception to the position that VANS aircraft do not need
>to be balanced and ignoring that Part 147 advise is okay.
>
>Worthy of consideration even if you guys arent posting any
>acknowledgment.
>
>John Cox
>#40600
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your windows
when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to a protective
film.............then wash it off when done painting. Was wondering if
it would provide protection when glueing the window in also..........pro
tect against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
Dean 40449
________________________________________________________________________
Anyone ever used SLIME HS from Sherwin-Williams to protect your
windows when painting your plane? You spray it on and it dries to
a protective film.............then wash it off when done painting.
; Was wondering if it would provide protection when glueing the window i
n also..........protect against accidental drips/runs of Weld-on.
It is a bluish green liquid and comes in a gal. bottle.
Dean 40449
______________________
__________________________________________________
Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today!