RV10-Archive.digest.vol-ca

January 26, 2007 - February 11, 2007



      >invoice with the order, and turnaround time for mine was only a day or
      >two.
      >
      >  
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dsyvert(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 26, 2007
Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Bob, Sorry I can't remember the part number and can't seem to find it. For the servo I'm using the Ray Allen Co. T3-12A like Vic. You need to be aware that the arm is not centered on the servo but offset. This is why you should have the parts before cutting so you can lay it out. As far as the servo arm being perpendicular, both mine and his are. On his it looks like he put his plate parallel to the ground and then attached the servo to plate at an angle so the arm is perpendicular to the trailing edge. Also the servo would be parallel to the trailing edge. I did mine a bit different. I installed the access plate parallel to the trailing edge and not to the ground. Either way works. I'm still putting mine together whereas Vic's flying so I may have a hick up, but I think it will work. Dave Syvertson 40625 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Date: Jan 26, 2007
Thanks for looking....... Now I've got a couple more... In the pictures on Tim's site, Vic has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo. I see from Ray Allen's site tht the difference from the one you used is about a half inch in travel. Is that variance significant? Also, do you have a source for the T adapter that is on the hinge? Am I getting thrown off by the trim cover being parallel to the ground that makes the servo arm not to be perpedicular to the hinge? Thanks to Tim and Jesse for providing the access cover part numbers. Once I get all this information, I'll add to Dave's and Vic's docs and give to Tim so minimize the leg work for those that follow us. bob > > From: Dsyvert(at)aol.com > Date: 2007/01/26 Fri AM 08:50:48 EST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim > > Bob, > > Sorry I can't remember the part number and can't seem to find it. For > the servo I'm using the Ray Allen Co. T3-12A like Vic. You need to be aware > that the arm is not centered on the servo but offset. This is why you should > have the parts before cutting so you can lay it out. As far as the servo arm > being perpendicular, both mine and his are. On his it looks like he put his > plate parallel to the ground and then attached the servo to plate at an angle so > the arm is perpendicular to the trailing edge. Also the servo would be > parallel to the trailing edge. I did mine a bit different. I installed the access > plate parallel to the trailing edge and not to the ground. Either way works. > > I'm still putting mine together whereas Vic's flying so I may have a > hick up, but I think it will work. > > Dave Syvertson > 40625 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electric Rudder Trim
Date: Jan 26, 2007
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Just to further foster the "build it yourself" mantra of late. The "T" adapter is nothing more than 2 pieces of AL bent into opposing "L" shapes and drilled. If you have any scrap AL sheet around (of the proper thickness) you can easily make your own cover plates. I copied the one that came with my kit for use in various places. No sense in paying shipping or the handling charge for something like that. With my hat shelf project I ended up buying a sheet of aluminum from Airparts so I had a bunch left over for things like that. Great company and they are always at OSH. Vic's seems to work fine but I would think you would want at least a total of 1" of travel on the servo. Not completely for the hinge travel but to also allow a little more leeway in adjusting for the installation. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Limbo -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rvmail(at)thelefflers.com Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 9:13 AM Subject: Re: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim Thanks for looking....... Now I've got a couple more... In the pictures on Tim's site, Vic has a Ray Allen T2-7A servo. I see from Ray Allen's site tht the difference from the one you used is about a half inch in travel. Is that variance significant? Also, do you have a source for the T adapter that is on the hinge? Am I getting thrown off by the trim cover being parallel to the ground that makes the servo arm not to be perpedicular to the hinge? Thanks to Tim and Jesse for providing the access cover part numbers. Once I get all this information, I'll add to Dave's and Vic's docs and give to Tim so minimize the leg work for those that follow us. bob > > From: Dsyvert(at)aol.com > Date: 2007/01/26 Fri AM 08:50:48 EST > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Electric Rudder Trim > > Bob, > > Sorry I can't remember the part number and can't seem to find it. For > the servo I'm using the Ray Allen Co. T3-12A like Vic. You need to be aware > that the arm is not centered on the servo but offset. This is why you should > have the parts before cutting so you can lay it out. As far as the servo arm > being perpendicular, both mine and his are. On his it looks like he put his > plate parallel to the ground and then attached the servo to plate at an angle so > the arm is perpendicular to the trailing edge. Also the servo would be > parallel to the trailing edge. I did mine a bit different. I installed the access > plate parallel to the trailing edge and not to the ground. Either way works. > > I'm still putting mine together whereas Vic's flying so I may have a > hick up, but I think it will work. > > Dave Syvertson > 40625 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 26, 2007
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Painting around Window Perimeter
I am getting close to installing windows and I have been wondering, when pa inting, do most people paint the perimeter of the windows and windshield i n order to cover the glue joint? In there any kind of sealer between the w indows and the Cabin Cover? Is the glue visible?=0A=0Athanks=0A=0ANiko=0A4 0188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator movement
Date: Jan 26, 2007
I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it needs to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with the bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do? I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and put a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block. Dave Leikam 40496 ----- Original Message ----- From: Jesse Saint To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 6:41 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Elevator movement That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with the AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull that bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to the pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time, where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on the AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a time to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not that the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get that hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking. BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting in the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling. Also, on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead of a block of wood as Van's suggests, and make sure that when you measure to drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other, because that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having the horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over =BD inch out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say that they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation. Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM To: matronics Subject: RV10-List: Elevator movement Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience? Dave Leikam 40496 http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator movement
Date: Jan 27, 2007
Dave, If one hole was forward of the other I'd suggest trying to adjust ot out with the hinge bearings but that won't help in your situation. ( I don't think ) . Check with Van's. You may still be within spec and not have to do anything. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Lettering for Panels
Date: Jan 27, 2007
Great idea. I just checked out their site and there are a lot of ways to use these guys. Thanks! Jeff Dalton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com> Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 8:22 AM Subject: RV10-List: Lettering for Panels > > > I used Camera Graphics in Oregon to produce rub-off letters. You supply > them with a .doc and .pdf file, they create a master sheet, and then > copy the master to a transfer sheet. My 8-1/2" x 11" sheet cost $65 > including shipping. I was very pleased with the outcome. It has the > same professional appearance as silkscreening. > > You can contact them at 503-234-1967 or email them at > transfers(at)cgpdx.com. Mr. Zell is very good to work with. He sends an > invoice with the order, and turnaround time for mine was only a day or > two. > > From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> > Subject: RV10-List: Lettering for Panels > > I have been wondering how people do lettering in their instument panels. > A > nyone care to volunteer some info?=0A=0ANiko=0A40188 on Cabin Cover > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2007
From: Phil White <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: Door fit - curvature change question
All I have built and hung the first door. When it was a shell without the window, it fit quite well. I glued in the window off the plane, and now find that there is more of a curve to the door, leading to it being 1/4" proud in the vertical center of the window (both front & rear). Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone have suggestions as to how to achieve a better fit now? Would a shim between the hinges and the door, combined with lowering the latch holes in the door frame to stretch the door work, do you think? Phil #40220 (windows + doors in IL) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2007
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: What bolts onto F1011E - rudder cable hold downs?
I'm ready to close up the rear tailcone deck but I'm looking at F1011E and see that 'something' bolts into the 2 nutplates. So far, I just can't find the step or 'thing' that goes there. Should I bolt it in now? Thanks for any help here. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hilger" <ninepapa(at)bendbroadband.com>
Subject: Re: What bolts onto F1011E - rudder cable hold downs?
Date: Jan 27, 2007
Those nutplates are for the clamps to secure tubes that locate the rudder cable. Vans hase you install them in section 38. John ----- Original Message ----- From: "MauleDriver" <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: What bolts onto F1011E - rudder cable hold downs? > > I'm ready to close up the rear tailcone deck but I'm looking at F1011E and > see that 'something' bolts into the 2 nutplates. So far, I just can't > find the step or 'thing' that goes there. > > Should I bolt it in now? > > Thanks for any help here. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Washer installation tool
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Jan 27, 2007
I know I have seen some photo's of a tool made out of a popsicle stick or tongue depresser that is made to help get washers installed on bolts for rod end installations and such. I cannot locate anything using the search feature. Anybody help with this? -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90930#90930 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 27, 2007
Subject: Re: Washer installation tool
I use fishing line that is threaded through everything to initially hold all the washers in place and in the proper order, then I use a 1/8" punch to get everything aligned. Then I remove the fishing line and push the punch out with the bolt. It's not all that easy every time, but that's how I did most of my rod end installations. Jim 40134 In a message dated 1/27/2007 8:53:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dmaib(at)mac.com writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)mac.com" I know I have seen some photo's of a tool made out of a popsicle stick or tongue depresser that is made to help get washers installed on bolts for rod end installations and such. I cannot locate anything using the search feature. Anybody help with this? -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90930#90930 Jim "Scooter" McGrew _http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Washer installation tool
There's one here: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > > I know I have seen some photo's of a tool made out of a popsicle stick or tongue depresser that is made to help get washers installed on bolts for rod end installations and such. I cannot locate anything using the search feature. Anybody help with this? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 27, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Washer installation tool
I was given this suggestion, but have not used it my self. Super glue the edge of the washer to a wire. Use the wire to hold the washer in place. Insert the bolt and then pull the wire off the washer. YMMV Larry dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > > I know I have seen some photo's of a tool made out of a popsicle stick or tongue depresser that is made to help get washers installed on bolts for rod end installations and such. I cannot locate anything using the search feature. Anybody help with this? > > -------- > David Maib > RV-10 #40559 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90930#90930 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nutplate Corrosion - To Prime or Not To Prime?
Date: Jan 28, 2007
From: "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au>
I'm in the process of installing the nut plates onto my spar and am seeking other builders thoughts re priming of the nut plates once installed to inhibit the likelihood of future corrosion. I am using Duralac on each nut plate prior to riveting to inhibit corrosion due to dissimilar metal contact and I have primed the countersinks in the spar flange prior to installing the nut plates. Should I also prime the nut plates themselves once installed on the underside of the spar flanges? Your thoughts, experiences and suggestions would be very much appreciated please. Regards Patrick Pulis #40299 Adelaide, South Australia ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Door fit - curvature change question
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Fooling with other parts of the door is inviting problems with the door operation later. I colecoed my door to the fuselage and glued the window. I think that you have two options, fair the 1/4" even with fuselage if possible, or if it is bad enough redo the window. Fix it, as you will be sorry to face the mismatch every time you fly. Rob. On Jan 27, 2007, at 12:55 PM, Phil White wrote: > > All > I have built and hung the first door. When it was a shell > without the window, it fit quite well. I glued in the window off > the plane, and now find that there is more of a curve to the door, > leading to it being 1/4" proud in the vertical center of the window > (both front & rear). > > Has anyone else experienced this? > > Does anyone have suggestions as to how to achieve a better fit > now? Would a shim between the hinges and the door, combined with > lowering the latch holes in the door frame to stretch the door > work, do you think? > > Phil #40220 (windows + doors in IL) > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Washer installation tool
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Another easy way also is to use a masking tape to hold the washer in place and pull the tape out once the washer is in place and the bolt is inserted. On Jan 27, 2007, at 10:59 PM, Larry Rosen wrote: > > I was given this suggestion, but have not used it my self. > Super glue the edge of the washer to a wire. Use the wire to hold > the washer in place. Insert the bolt and then pull the wire off > the washer. > > YMMV > Larry > > dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: >> >> I know I have seen some photo's of a tool made out of a popsicle >> stick or tongue depresser that is made to help get washers >> installed on bolts for rod end installations and such. I cannot >> locate anything using the search feature. Anybody help with this? >> >> -------- >> David Maib >> RV-10 #40559 >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90930#90930 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jdalton77(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Washer installation tool
Date: Jan 28, 2007
I've been using these funny needlenose pliers I ran across - the end are curved down sharply enabling me to fit them into funny angles. Works for both washers and nuts. -------------- Original message -------------- From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> > > Another easy way also is to use a masking tape to hold the washer in > place and pull the tape out once the washer is in place and the bolt > is inserted. > > > On Jan 27, 2007, at 10:59 PM, Larry Rosen wrote: > > > > > I was given this suggestion, but have not used it my self. > > Super glue the edge of the washer to a wire. Use the wire to hold > > the washer in place. Insert the bolt and then pull the wire off > > the washer. > > > > YMMV > > Larry > > > > dmaib(at)mac.com wrote: > >> > >> I know I have seen some photo's of a tool made out of a popsicle > >> stick or tongue depresser that is made to help get washers > >> installed on bolts for rod end installations and such. I cannot > >> locate anything using the search feature. Anybody help with this? > >> > >> -------- > >> David Maib > >> RV-10 #40559 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Read this topic online here: > >> > >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90930#90930 > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > >
 
I've been using these funny needlenose pliers I ran across - the end are curved down sharply enabling me to fit them into funny angles.  Works for both washers and nuts.

> --> RV10-List message posted by: Rob Kermanj
>
> Another easy way also is to use a masking tape to hold the washer in
> place and pull the tape out once the washer is in place and the bolt
> is inserted.
>
>
> On Jan 27, 2007, at 10:59 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> > --> RV10-List message posted by: Larry Rosen
> >
> > I was given this suggestion, but have not used it my self.
> > Super glue the edge of the washer to a wire. Use the wire to hold
> > the washer in place. Insert the bolt and then pull the wire off
> > the washer.
> >
> > YMMV
> > Larry
> >
> > dmaib(at)mac.com w rote:
> >> --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib@mac.com"
> >>
> >> I know I have seen some photo's of a tool made out of a popsicle
> >> stick or tongue depresser that is made to help get washers
> >> installed on bolts for rod end installations and such. I cannot
> >> locate anything using the search feature. Anybody help with this?
> >>
> >> --------
> >> David Maib
> >> RV-10 #40559
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Read this topic online here:
> >>
> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90930#90930
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> &g t;
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How does this tank test kit work?
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Hello I purchased Vans tank test kit but how should this fuel feed cover is supposed to work? Am I missing something here? Regards Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91096#91096 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20070128_wings_01_503.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Firewall Forward parts list
Here's 2 versions !. This is the version straight as it comes from Van's 2. The second version has the part descriptions cut and pasted into it to help assist. (It also has my deletions to the kit annotated, just ignore those) Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How does this tank test kit work?
Date: Jan 28, 2007
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Unfortunately, almost everything in that kit is useless and doesn't apply to the -10. You will have to improvise most of it. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Limbo -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 2:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work? Hello I purchased Vans tank test kit but how should this fuel feed cover is supposed to work? Am I missing something here? Regards Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91096#91096 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20070128_wings_01_503.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Count me in and thanks for doing this. Nice process and organization. Rob. On Jan 28, 2007, at 7:41 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > Good news, everyone... > > Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my > drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from > the install posted here: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/ > index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions > > Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and > since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate > a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least > 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other > people > were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to > make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to > see if pricing will be any lower. > > My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and > $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) > > Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions > for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them > now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order > them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's > way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be > a small delay before they start making them. > You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's > stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to > cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit > to paying for them. > > What you'll get: > 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so > they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly > replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, > so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. > You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that > will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall > off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm > going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) > MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required > to attach them. > > Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" > and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring > so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and > torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill > out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small > cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. > Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. > > Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to > make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same > time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the > same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round > any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and > done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than > my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, > all complete to your door with the hardware. > > One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going > to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 > states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. > > Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want > them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm > crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and > it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep > the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for > this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably > easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this > because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and > it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your > local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that > we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal > or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because > we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) > If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that > they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're > just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) > > If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not > proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. > > Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. > > -- > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Tim, I will take a set. Thank you so much for all you do for this group of builders. Fantastic! David Maib #40559 struggling with elevator trim (grrrrrr) On Jan 28, 2007, at 6:41 PM, Tim Olson wrote: Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/ index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: EFDsteve(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Thanks, Tim. Please add me to the list for a pair of axle extensions. Steve Weinstock 40230 In a message dated 1/28/2007 6:46:49 P.M. Central Standard Time, Tim(at)MyRV10.com writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_ extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Michael, I tested mine using Dan Checkoway's method, described here: http://www.rvproject.com/20020710.html . It is quite sensitive to atmospheric changes but should give a good feel. Anh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 3:01 PM Subject: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work? > > > > > Hello I purchased Vans tank test kit but how should this fuel feed cover > is supposed to work? Am I missing something here? > > Regards > Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (wings) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91096#91096 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/20070128_wings_01_503.jpg > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Send me a pair if you have a slot left. Dave Leikam 40496 S79 W16389 Woods Rd Muskego, WI 53150 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. > > Good news, everyone... > > Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my > drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from > the install posted here: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions > > Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and > since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate > a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least > 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people > were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to > make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to > see if pricing will be any lower. > > My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and > $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) > > Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions > for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them > now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order > them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's > way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be > a small delay before they start making them. > You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's > stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to > cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit > to paying for them. > > What you'll get: > 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so > they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly > replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, > so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. > You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that > will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall > off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm > going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) > MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required > to attach them. > > Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" > and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring > so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and > torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill > out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small > cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. > Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. > > Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to > make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same > time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the > same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round > any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and > done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than > my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, > all complete to your door with the hardware. > > One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going > to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 > states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. > > Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want > them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm > crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and > it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep > the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for > this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably > easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this > because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and > it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your > local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that > we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal > or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because > we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) > If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that > they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're > just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) > > If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not > proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. > > Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. > > -- > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 28, 2007
Tim, add me to the list. Thanks for doing it. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 5:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_ne w_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 28, 2007
From: "Pierre Levy" <pierre(at)danieljofriel.com>
Tim: I will take a set. Pierre Pierre Levy Builder Number 40690 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 5:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_o f_new_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 28, 2007
=0AHi Tim,=0A=0AI will take a set.=0A=0ARoger=0A#402 91=0A ----- Original Message ----- =0A From: Tim Olson<mailto: Tim(at)MyRV10.com> =0A To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com =0A Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 4:41 PM=0A Su bject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesda Tim(at)MyRV10.com>=0A=0A Good news, everyon e...=0A=0A Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my=0A drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have so me photos from=0A the install posted here:=0A=0A http://www myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_ex tensions<http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Ins tallation_of_new_extensions>=0A=0A Now that I know they work, I 'm going to do something stupid and=0A since some people found hig h machining costs, I'm going to coordinate=0A a group order for ex tensions that look like these. I had at least=0A 2 quotes come ba ck with costs significantly lower than what other people=0A were s aying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to=0A make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to =0A see if pricing will be any lower.=0A=0A My present quot e that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and=0A $24.50ea @ qu antity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively)=0A=0A Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions=0A for yo ur plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them=0A now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order =0A them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's =0A way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be=0A a small delay before they start making them.=0A You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's=0A stupi d, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to=0A cov er the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit=0A to paying for them.=0A=0A What you'll get:=0A 1 PAIR of Ax le entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so=0A they don' t require the large flat washer. They should directly=0A replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts,=0A so you ha ve one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut.=0A You'll als o get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that=0A will be 1 /4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall=0A off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm=0A going t o send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3)=0A MS24665-362 cot ter pins, so you have all of the hardware required=0A to attach th em.=0A=0A Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16"=0A and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring=0A so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/wash er to the extension and=0A torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill=0A out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small=0A cotter pins, install the axle nut s and pin with the large pins.=0A Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw.=0A=0A Since this is something I' m not doing for profit, I'm going to=0A make it easy on myself. T hey'll all be picked up at the same=0A time, and I'll throw them a ll into USPS Priority mail at the=0A same time. I'll split the co sts of everything evenly, and round=0A any costs up to the next hi ghest dollar. When all is said and=0A done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than=0A my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair,=0A all complete to your doo r with the hardware.=0A=0A One exception: Since this isn't for -profit in any way, I'm going=0A to make it easy on myself and lim it it to the US continental 48=0A states only so I can use USPS Pr iority mail.=0A=0A Again, I'll only be doing this group order o ne time, so if you want=0A them, now's the time. After this order , if for some reason I'm=0A crazy enough to do it again, I'd add o n extra cost for the time, and=0A it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep=0A the price down. If for some r eason we can't get 10 people for=0A this order, I won't bother, bu t my gut feeling is that we'll probably=0A easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this=0A because after ins talling them I know they worked well for me, and=0A it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your=0A local machin ist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that=0A we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal=0A or by check after y ou get them. I know everyone will pay up, because=0A we're all ni ce people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;)=0A If yo u pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that=0A the y charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're=0A just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;)=0A =0A If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I wi ll not=0A proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first.=0A=0A Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list.=0A=0A -- =0A Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ======================= ======================0A ======================= ======================= ======================= ======================= ====0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 28, 2007
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
I'm in! cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Tim Olson Sent: Sun 1/28/2007 4:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of _new_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 28, 2007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday
p.m. Wonderful, you're #51! Tim Roger Standley wrote: > > Hi Tim, > > I will take a set. > > Roger > #40291 > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Tim Olson > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Sunday, January 28, 2007 4:41 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by > Wednesday p.m. > > > > > Good news, everyone... > > Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my > drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from > the install posted here: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions > > Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and > since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate > a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least > 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people > were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to > make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to > see if pricing will be any lower. > > My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and > $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) > > Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions > for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them > now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order > them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's > way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be > a small delay before they start making them. > You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's > stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to > cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit > to paying for them. > > What you'll get: > 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so > they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly > replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, > so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. > You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that > will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall > off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm > going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) > MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required > to attach them. > > Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" > and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring > so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and > torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill > out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small > cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. > Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. > > Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to > make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same > time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the > same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round > any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and > done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than > my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, > all complete to your door with the hardware. > > One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going > to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 > states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. > > Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want > them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm > crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and > it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep > the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for > this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably > easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this > because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and > it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your > local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that > we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal > or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because > we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) > If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that > they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're > just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) > > If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not > proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. > > Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. > > -- > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - > ==============================================http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<=======================nbsp; > title=http://forums.matronics.com/ > href="http://fo======================================================= > > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
Subject: Cabin Doors
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Had a lot of fun over the long weekend and managed about 20 or so hours, filing, sanding, cutting, shaping and installing the doors and rear windows. However as I filed, sanded and bevelled the edges down, I started noticing splits or places where the glue hadn't joined in some spots. Having installed the inner and outer shells as one unit on the cabin cover during the gluing process, I did notice some slight distortion to the outer edges when trying to apply pressure to keep both halves together and in contact but I can't say I noticed any problems with the mating of the shell halves on the bench. As both doors ended up with similar problems, I can only say I didn't get enough down pressure on the outer shell edges once positioned in the cabin cover doorway. Where I could, I re-glued but rather than trying to force the shells together where they wouldn't stretch easily; I made some thin fibreglass shims and glued those into any voids. Worked well and can now be filed down to shape again. Just something for those yet to do this step, in order to save a bit of time and grief.. John 40315 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Thank you Michael & Anh, I am just wondering why they sell it this way? Anyway I'll go the alternative route. Thanks for the fast replys Michael http://www.wellenzohn.net -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91236#91236 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
Subject: How does this tank test kit work?
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Hi Michael, I just tested my left tank last night using the test kit, look at: http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=phzme&project=1&categ ory=0&log=27411&row=1 #40355 Henkjan van der Zouw -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Michael Wellenzohn Verzonden: zondag 28 januari 2007 21:02 Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Onderwerp: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work? Hello I purchased Vans tank test kit but how should this fuel feed cover is supposed to work? Am I missing something here? Regards Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91096#91096 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20070128_wings_01_503.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
Subject: How does this tank test kit work?
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Why is it useless? I used it on both tanks recently Henkjan van der Zouw 40355 -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Verzonden: maandag 29 januari 2007 0:54 Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Onderwerp: RE: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work? Unfortunately, almost everything in that kit is useless and doesn't apply to the -10. You will have to improvise most of it. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Limbo -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 2:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work? Hello I purchased Vans tank test kit but how should this fuel feed cover is supposed to work? Am I missing something here? Regards Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91096#91096 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20070128_wings_01_503.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
From: "Hans-Dieter Aue" <Hans.Dieter.Aue(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Yes Tim, add me to the list. Since I'm located in Germany I will try to arrange a delivery spot in US. I will tell you a shipping address soon. Thanks for doing this. Hans-Dieter Aue Germany 40424 N110GH (reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91242#91242 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: RV10-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 01/26/07
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow(at)wancdf.com>
At the recommendation of someone else, I sprayed them with a couple coats of clear. From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Lettering for Panels Dan, How is the lettering protected from scratching/abrasion? Did you seal the letters with anything (clearcoat?) This looks like an excellent option, Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
From: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade(at)msdeltawireless.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Us Too!!! One set. 40383 N369JW 60Hrs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91258#91258 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
From: "reubanks" <reubanks1(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Couldnt view your URL you posted. Below is the error: Henkjan's Van's RV10 PH-ZME RV10 All Notice: Undefined variable: log_date in /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/display_log.php on line 174 Notice: strtotime(): Called with empty time parameter in /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/templates/library/chart_functions.php on line 28 1-29-2007 Unable to find a work log with the specified id or no id was specified. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91266#91266 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Thanks Tim, I will take one set for up to $60. Thank You Ray Doerr CDNI Principal Engineer Sprint PCS 16020 West 113th Street Lenexa, KS 66219 Mailstop KSLNXK0101 (913) 859-1414 (Office) (913) 226-0106 (Pcs) (913) 859-1234 (Fax) Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
You need to cut and paste the entire link, as it got truncated. Dan N289DT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of reubanks Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 9:16 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: How does this tank test kit work? Couldnt view your URL you posted. Below is the error: Henkjan's Van's RV10 PH-ZME RV10 All Notice: Undefined variable: log_date in /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/display_log.php on line 174 Notice: strtotime(): Called with empty time parameter in /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/templates/library/chart_functio ns.php on line 28 1-29-2007 Unable to find a work log with the specified id or no id was specified. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91266#91266 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Henkjan van der Zouw" <henkjan(at)zme.nl>
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
Date: Jan 29, 2007
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=phzme&project=1&categ ory=0&log=27411&row=1 I'm no computer wizz, look at www.zme.nl, click at the kitlog logo, it's the last entry at the log -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens reubanks Verzonden: maandag 29 januari 2007 15:16 Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Onderwerp: RV10-List: Re: How does this tank test kit work? Couldnt view your URL you posted. Below is the error: Henkjan's Van's RV10 PH-ZME RV10 All Notice: Undefined variable: log_date in /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/display_log.php on line 174 Notice: strtotime(): Called with empty time parameter in /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/templates/library/chart_functio ns.php on line 28 1-29-2007 Unable to find a work log with the specified id or no id was specified. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91266#91266 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work? URL truncated
simply, put always the link between <> then it's not truncated :o) Henkjan van der Zouw wrote: > > http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=phzme&project=1&categ > ory=0&log=27411&row=1 > > I'm no computer wizz, look at www.zme.nl, click at the kitlog logo, it's > the last entry at the log > > -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- > Van: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens reubanks > Verzonden: maandag 29 januari 2007 15:16 > Aan: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Onderwerp: RV10-List: Re: How does this tank test kit work? > > > Couldnt view your URL you posted. Below is the error: > > Henkjan's Van's RV10 PH-ZME > RV10 > > All > > > Notice: Undefined variable: log_date in > /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/display_log.php on line 174 > > Notice: strtotime(): Called with empty time parameter in > /home/content/a/e/r/aeroware2/html/users/templates/library/chart_functio > ns.php on line 28 > 1-29-2007 > > > Unable to find a work log with the specified id or no id was specified. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91266#91266 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Baggage door channel
Date: Jan 29, 2007
"The book" has you machine countersink the upper baggage door seal channel for the platenut attach rivets, but it's very thin (0.025, I think). I tried to squeeze a dimple in there with the separated dies from my pop-rivet dimple, and just messed it up. Countersinking was worse - when I tried to get deep enough, I enlarged the hole. Here's an approach that works: Drill #40 the rivet holes as instructed, but continue all the way through the back of the piece. Enlarge the holes in the back to 9/64" to pass the nail head of the pop rivet dimpler. Insert the nail a little way, slip on the female die, and continue as usual. FWIW John Ackerman ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Sorry but I only had one valve, the blue cap and a description in my kit and thats ist. I wonder how you fit this to the standard fuel finger without additional hardware. Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91298#91298 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wow!
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Ok, if Europe is possible too please add me to the list as well! Michael Wellenzohn (Switzerland) LloydDR(at)wernerco.com wrote: > Tim for everyone in Europe and further East I will help with the > packaging and sending. Just send me the list of people and I will make > sure it gets out to them. I think there was one from Germany, and I do > not know how many others, but I can help. > > Dan > N289DT > > -- -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91299#91299 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday
p.m. Thanks Tim. Mauledriver will take one. Bill "finally closed up the trim tabs and riveting the tailcone" Watson Tim Olson wrote: > > Good news, everyone... > > Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my > drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from > the install posted here: ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Tim's good deed
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Hey Tim, When you get a price fot the axle extensions nailed down, let us know. I'll send you my check ASAP. No need for you to hang your but on the line financially. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: forward closeout panel????????????????????
Date: Jan 29, 2007
John, I think Van's sells a closout panel for this area in the wiring harness kit. Others can correct me if I'm wrong. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: forward closeout panel????????????????????
Date: Jan 29, 2007
You only get the left side....at least that is all I got. The directions say to run the wires up and around on the right side. For me it does not matter since I got the interior done by Abbey, but I put the left side panel in anyway. Rene' Felker 40322 N423CF 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hasbrouck Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 11:08 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: forward closeout panel???????????????????? John, I think Van's sells a closout panel for this area in the wiring harness kit. Others can correct me if I'm wrong. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject:
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Hello Deems, Can you contact me off the list or email me a phone number? I would like to talk to you regarding OP Technologies. Thanks, Rob. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Tim's good deed
In a message dated 1/29/07 1:02:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Hasbrouck" Hey Tim, When you get a price fot the axle extensions nailed down, let us know. I'll send you my check ASAP. No need for you to hang your but on the line financially. Tim let us know what the total estimated costs will be not only for the part but the S&H...could be as much as the parts themselves? P ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Countersink W-1006E?
I have a quick question about the "extra hole" referenced on page 13-2 in t he W-1006E part. Should this hole be countersunk? I could not find anythi ng in a future section of the wing assembly that indicates that a rivet wil l be going there. Is there another purpose for the hole or is it simply to orientate the part as described on 13-2? Thanks in advance.=0A=0A--Shawn =0A40366=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A________________________________________________ ____________________________________=0AWant to start your own business?=0AL ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Countersink W-1006E?
Doesn't matter; Nothing goes in that hole. I'd deburr it, but otherwise its not used for anything. -Jim 40384 Shawn Moon wrote: > I have a quick question about the "extra hole" referenced on page 13-2 > in the W-1006E part. Should this hole be countersunk? I could not > find anything in a future section of the wing assembly that indicates > that a rivet will be going there. Is there another purpose for the > hole or is it simply to orientate the part as described on 13-2? > Thanks in advance. > > --Shawn > 40366 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Sucker-punch spam > with award-winning protection. > Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta. <http://us.rd.yaspam.html> > >* > > >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Wow!
Tim, I want a set. I also want to be #100 before JC contacts you. Will sen d address info later but it is on the builders list. Thanks, DEAN ________________________________________________________________________ Interested in getting caught up on today's news? Click here to checkout USA TODAY Headlines. http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=198954&u=http://www.usatoday.com/news/f ront.htm?csp=24

Tim,

I want a set.  I also want to be #100 before JC contacts you.&nb sp;  Will send address info later but it is on the builders list.

Thanks,

DEAN



______________________ __________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Panel Lettering
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
> I remember a recent query (from Niko I think) about panel lettering. > Let me share what I am doing. > > Objectives > I prefer something removeable, rather than engraved or silk screened - > provides greater flexibility in the future and I wanted to do it > myself > I wanted to use materials available locally - importing stuff to > Australia is expensive > I wanted something tough/waterproof. > I wanted flexibility in the design eg use of Visio or a CAD package > > Solution > Placard/label design was done using Visio (but any drawing package > will work) > [As an aside, once the full size label is done, print it onto clear > adhesive label, stick it to the panel and use it as a template to > drill your lamp/switch holes.] > Use a Post Script color laser printer and print a mirror image on the > Bottom side of an overhead transparency. This will mean the print is > on the underside of the slide and the print is protected by the > plastic. > White does not print on most printers, so white lines/text will be > clear on the transparency. Easy, spray a coat of white paint on the > underside of the transparency (ie the same side as the print). > The transparency will usually have a high gloss. Gently scuff the top > surface with a scotch brite pad. Apply a light spray of clear satin > acrylic - gloss gone! > Apply some thin double sided tape leaving the backing on the panel > side > Punch the switch/lamp holes using a hole punch and trim the edges with > a guillotine. > Remove the tape backing and stick onto the panel. > Voila!!! > > I tried this last night and the results are awesome. Infinite > flexibility in placard design, waterproof and wear resistant label, > and it cost me nothing! Attached is an example of one of the labels. > YMMV, but it costs bugger all to give it a try . > > Cheers, > Ron <> > finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Baggage door channel
Date: Jan 29, 2007
I just rememberred what I did about the countersinking for the nutplates. I too felt that the material was too thin to countersink so what I did was to make a piece of hardwood that fit inside the the channel. I thin clamped it down so it would not move then drilled the #40 rivet holes and then countersank them. The idea being that the holes in the hardwood keep the countersinking bit alighned. There was no issue with the bit wondering and the depth of the countersink did not blow out the hole. I reshaped the back of the channel for the smallest die on the pnuematic riveter. It worked out great for me. Turn down the valve on the compressor hose so the pneumatic goes slow because if you are out of alignment, you ruin your part. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James Stribling" <jlstrib(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Hi Tim I will also take a pair. Thanks. James Stribling 4453 Mallard Point Columbus, IN 47201 40140 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_ne w_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuel Return?
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Looking for input and suggestions on plumbing a fuel return. I'm planning ahead and installing it in preparation for a future electronic fuel system. And farther out the diesel engine................. ;-) Both systems will require a fuel return to the tank. With the Subaru's(Eggenfellner) needing this now I assume it's being done already. They have a good instruction page on how to install a return in -6A on their site. ERic-- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Countersink W-1006E?
That's what I needed to know. Thanks.=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AF rom: James Hein =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mond ay, January 29, 2007 3:53:51 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Countersink W-100 Doesn't matter; Nothing goes in that hole. I'd deburr it, but otherwise =0A its not used for anything.=0A=0A-Jim 40384=0A=0AShawn Moon wrote:=0A=0A> I have a quick question about the "extra hole" referenced on page 13-2 =0A> i n the W-1006E part. Should this hole be countersunk? I could not =0A> fin d anything in a future section of the wing assembly that indicates =0A> tha t a rivet will be going there. Is there another purpose for the =0A> hole or is it simply to orientate the part as described on 13-2? =0A> Thanks in advance.=0A>=0A> --Shawn=0A> 40366=0A>=0A> ------------------------------- -----------------------------------------=0A> Sucker-punch spam =0A> with a ward-winning protection.=0A> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta. <http://us.rd.y ==============0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A________________________________________________________________________ ://music.yahoo.com/unlimited ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roy & Debbie" <roy.debbie(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Tim Add my name to the list ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. > > Good news, everyone... > > Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my > drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from > the install posted here: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions > > Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and > since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate > a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least > 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people > were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to > make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to > see if pricing will be any lower. > > My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and > $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) > > Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions > for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them > now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order > them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's > way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be > a small delay before they start making them. > You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's > stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to > cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit > to paying for them. > > What you'll get: > 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so > they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly > replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, > so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. > You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that > will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall > off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm > going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) > MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required > to attach them. > > Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" > and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring > so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and > torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill > out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small > cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. > Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. > > Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to > make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same > time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the > same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round > any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and > done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than > my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, > all complete to your door with the hardware. > > One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going > to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 > states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. > > Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want > them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm > crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and > it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep > the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for > this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably > easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this > because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and > it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your > local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that > we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal > or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because > we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) > If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that > they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're > just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) > > If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not > proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. > > Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. > > -- > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Fuel Return
Eric: I am still in the wing section and bought the same fittings for the vent line. Placed them in the left tank and ran the tube 1/2 way down thru the baffles. That way the return fuel will cool and dump into the middle of the tank. I'd be glad to send a pic of where I put the exit if you want one. Does any body have any information on roll trim? Necessary? Got asked that question and have not run across any information yet. I know a lot of the RV 's have heavy wings and require a trim tab on one of the ailerons. How is that different? When and where should that be installed? Thanks Fred Williams drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com 40515 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Airflow
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Anyone have a schematic on how Airflow's Pump/Filter combo bypasses if clogged/failed? I've written them and will post reply; hopefully someone has it on hand already. Rob Wright #392 Fuse - Gear, controls, waiting for interior paint and a warm day! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Aileron Trim (was Fuel Return)
Van's Aircraft Electric Aileron Trim Kit Complete servo and spring bias assembly for RV-10 Part Number = EA-10 Kit Price = $300.00 <http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1170124155-90-9&browse=airframe&product=ea-kit> The ray allen servo mounts on one of the access panels of the wing and a spring bias system applies the trim force directly to the aileron control push rod. You can Michael Sausen has a good write up in his kitlog 10/29/2005 here <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=0&log=5376&row=188> and here 10/30/2005 <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22&category=0&log=6270&row=186> or from my website here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/Log/Wings/AileronTrim/index.html> Larry Rosen <http://lrosen.nerv10.com Fred Williams, M.D. wrote: > > > Eric: > > I am still in the wing section and bought the same fittings for the > vent line. Placed them in the left tank and ran the tube 1/2 way down > thru the baffles. That way the return fuel will cool and dump into > the middle of the tank. I'd be glad to send a pic of where I put the > exit if you want one. > Does any body have any information on roll trim? Necessary? Got > asked that question and have not run across any information yet. I > know a lot of the RV 's have heavy wings and require a trim tab on one > of the ailerons. How is that different? When and where should that > be installed? > Thanks > > Fred Williams > drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com > 40515 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
From: "AndrewTR30" <AndrewTR30(at)aol.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Tim, add me to the buyers list please. Andrew Rayhill Phoenix -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91484#91484 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2007
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: aileron trim
Thanks for the replies. Fred (pointed in the right direction/wings level) Williams ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Leach" <papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Axle Extensions
Date: Jan 29, 2007
Count me in Tim. Thanks for the work. Rick Leach 40397 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Woods" <rwshooter(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday
p.m.
Date: Jan 30, 2007
I don't even have the emp kit yet and I'm in!! Robb.....192RL reserved ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 9:56 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Wonderful, you're #51! Tim Roger Standley wrote: > > Hi Tim, > > I will take a set. > > Roger > #40291 > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Tim Olson > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Sunday, January 28, 2007 4:41 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by > Wednesday p.m. > > > > > Good news, everyone... > > Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my > drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from > the install posted here: > > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions > > Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and > since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate > a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least > 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other > people > were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to > make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to > see if pricing will be any lower. > > My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and > $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) > > Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions > for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them > now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order > them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's > way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be > a small delay before they start making them. > You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's > stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to > cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit > to paying for them. > > What you'll get: > 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so > they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly > replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, > so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. > You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that > will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall > off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm > going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) > MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required > to attach them. > > Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" > and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring > so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and > torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill > out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small > cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. > Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. > > Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to > make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same > time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the > same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round > any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and > done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than > my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, > all complete to your door with the hardware. > > One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going > to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 > states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. > > Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want > them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm > crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and > it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep > the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for > this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably > easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this > because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and > it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your > local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that > we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal > or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because > we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) > If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that > they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're > just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) > > If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not > proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. > > Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. > > -- > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - > > ==============================================http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List<=======================nbsp; > title=http://forums.matronics.com/ > > href="http://fo======================================================= > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Subject: Re: Wow!
Outstanding. Never can tell how things will go. U have me on the list so here is my info. Doug Preston 2726 Paden Trail Birmingham, AL 35226 #40372 C-205-873-2955 Thanks again. dp ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Doble (Home Office)" <mikedoble(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Tools to Sell
Date: Jan 30, 2007
All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot Dave Leikam.). Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call Avery or Cleveland Tool. Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the tail cone skins without wrinkles. Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel). Mike Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flaring Tool
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Quick question which flaring tool will I need? Any suggestions which are affordable and deliver good quality? Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91549#91549 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tools to Sell
Re the tail skins. The key for me so far is to backrivet as much as possible. I've been using a 12" X 30" X 3/8" steel plate (it doesn't have to be polished or milled flat) along with several pieces of 3/8" packing box plywood. I found that the Cleaveland backrivet set does a *much* better job than the ATS set I started with (see below) The long backrivet set along with a short one helps a lot too. Almost ever rivet forward of the 2 rearmost bulkheads can be back riveted. I haven't done the top skin yet. I plan to use the backrivet set and the backrivet bucking bar from Cleaveland for the top skin - but I'm looking for other advice here. From my previous post on backrivet sets: I've been using the backrivet set from ATS and getting acceptable results. However, I recently had my first opportunity to use a 12" long backrivet from Cleaveland and discovered that it was easier to get good results. The ATS has a thick plastic collar that I had to grind a flat spot on in order to get squarely on the J stiffener rivets. I've hit it twice more with the grinder to ease access on other rivets. The ATS also has a convex face on the set. I found that unless the set was well centered and straight, it was easy to get tilted, concave shop heads. The Cleaveland 12" tool (or whoever's tool they distribute) has a thin plastic collar and I found it fit the J stiffeners very nicely. The face of the set is flatter and it's easier to get square, flat shop heads. I just ordered their normal length backrivet set and understand it is setup the same as the 12". Mike Doble (Home Office) wrote: > > All Im convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot > Dave Leikam). > > Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, Ill call > Avery or Cleveland Tool. > > Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the > tail cone skins without wrinkles. > > Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to > remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel). > > Mike > > Builder 40691. Working on my tail20 hrs so far. > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Flaring Tool
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Over everything else, make sure it is a 37 degree tool. All our fittings are 37 degrees which is different from normal automotive and other applications. That being said the Roloflare from Parker Hannifin is very popular and I like it. I believe it's around a Benjamin from the usual suspects such as: http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TRF37 Michael Sausen -10 #352 limbo -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 7:21 AM Subject: RV10-List: Flaring Tool Quick question which flaring tool will I need? Any suggestions which are affordable and deliver good quality? Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91549#91549 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net>
Tim, I will take a pair. Thanks, Bobby Hughes 40116 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Good news, everyone... Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from the install posted here: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_o f_new_extensions Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to see if pricing will be any lower. My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be a small delay before they start making them. You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit to paying for them. What you'll get: 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required to attach them. Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, all complete to your door with the hardware. One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. -- Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Flaring Tool
Hi Michael, you could for sure borough this tools from another Swiss builder, as this are common tools more or less used for all the aircraft's plumbing. Take care Werner Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > > Quick question which flaring tool will I need? Any suggestions which are affordable and deliver good quality? > > Thanks > Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (wings) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91549#91549 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
From: "reubanks" <reubanks1(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Hi Dan, Yes, I used the entire URL before I sent the reply. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91572#91572 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Flaring Tool
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Great thanks guys for the help. All the shipping costs just hurt though. So far I paid well over 3k $ just for shipping :x Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91573#91573 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Tools to Sell
Mike Call the yardstore (www.yardstore.com <http://www.yardstore.com/> ) as they sell good quality *used* pneumatic squeezers and they stand behind what they sell. Cheers Les Kearney Rv10 # 40643 - Not riveting due to wristus fractus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Doble (Home Office) Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tools to Sell All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot Dave Leikam.). Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call Avery or Cleveland Tool. Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the tail cone skins without wrinkles. Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel). Mike Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wow!
Ok, so I must have missed it somewhere, but what is the issue that the exte nsions address? Hopefully I am not the only person wondering this. I real ly try to keep up, but with the amount of e-mails this list generates I som etimes miss things trying to catch up.=0A=0A--Shawn=0A40366=0A=0A----- Orig inal Message ----=0AFrom: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matron ics.com=0ASent: Monday, January 29, 2007 11:35:12 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-Li m>=0A=0ATime to call it a day. Pretty much spent a lot of time=0Areturning emails and making lists today. You guys are=0Apretty overwhelming. ;) Y ou know, I had wondered if we=0Acould get 20 people together to make the co st low. As=0Ait turns out, today we're at 125....PEOPLE. That's 250=0Amac hined extensions. I am truly amazed. That's almost=0A1/5th of the current kit sales, all wanting parts within=0Aa little over 24 hours. Total costs with my local sales=0Atax will come to just about $4700 at this point, if the=0Aquote stays the same. And after that, there's bolts=0Aand shipping a nd stuff. Whoda thunkit? But, RV guys=0Aare about the most reliable peop le I've met, so as much=0Aas it gets spooky, it's gonna happen. Still, no checks=0Ashould be sent yet. Let's get the total costs figured=0Aout first . With a group this large, I'll have to=0Aquick get an estimate on all the packaging stuff and=0Ajust make sure it all gets covered. I'm hoping that =0Aa large number of people like Paypal, as it sure beats=0Agoing to the ba nk and writing a deposit slip up for=0A125 checks. ;) I checked on paypal fees and if I read=0Ait right, it's 2.9%+ $.30, so it only adds about $1.75 =0Aroughly.=0A=0ASo there's about 36 hours left and I close the doors on=0A the deal and start the gears of procurement and production.=0ATo you guys t his may be a cool way to get some parts....=0Afor me it's turning into a mi nd-blowing experience. ;)=0A=0AI do appreciate all the offers of help. I j ust so far=0Athink if I can just get all of you to send your mailing=0Aaddr esses in so I can complete my spreadsheet fields,=0Ait should go pretty smo othly.=0A=0ASorry that they told me to expect a 2 week timeframe=0Afor manu facture. I'll see if I can get that reduced=0Aif possible.=0A=0AThanks for the support for your positive comments.=0A=0ATim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Fl ========0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A_________________ ___________________________________________________________________=0ANeed a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.=0AAsk your questio n on www.Answers.yahoo.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Cram" <johncram(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tools to Sell
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Good luck getting someone to part with their squeezer. It is a "Charlton Heston" tool. Cold dead hands speech>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: Les Kearney<mailto:kearney(at)shaw.ca> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:25 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tools to Sell Mike Call the yardstore (www.yardstore.com<http://www.yardstore.com/>) as they sell good quality *used* pneumatic squeezers and they stand behind what they sell. Cheers Les Kearney Rv10 # 40643 - Not riveting due to wristus fractus -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Doble (Home Office) Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:03 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Tools to Sell All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot Dave Leikam.). Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call Avery or Cleveland Tool. Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the tail cone skins without wrinkles. Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel). Mike Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far. http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Tools to Sell
Check out Brown Tools
http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?ProductID=767 they have the lowest price I have seen for a new squeezer Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Doble (Home Office) To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 5:03 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tools to Sell All - I'm convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot Dave Leikam.). Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, I'll call Avery or Cleveland Tool. Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the tail cone skins without wrinkles. Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel). Mike Builder 40691. Working on my tail..20 hrs so far. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tools to Sell
Mike,=0A I use the mushroom set with rubber guard that you are referring to. At first I didn't like it because the rubber was to thick and the riv et popped out a little bit. I ended up trimming down the rubber and it wor ks great now. Much easier to do single-person riveting with the rubber "ho lding" the rivet gun in place. Prior to doing that I had sworn off single- person riveting with a bucking bar. I have not used the swivel one so I ca n't comment on that.=0A=0A--Shawn=0A40366=0A=0A----- Original Message ---- =0AFrom: Mike Doble (Home Office) <mikedoble(at)wi.rr.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@mat ronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 7:03:15 AM=0ASubject: RV10-Lis t: Tools to Sell=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAll ' I=92m convinced now th at I need a pneumatic squeezer=0A(thanks a lot Dave Leikam=85).=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0AAny of you that are done want to part with yours??? If=0Anot, I =92ll call Avery or Cleveland Tool.=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0AAlso, there was so me discussion a few weeks ago about how to=0Arivet the tail cone skins with out wrinkles.=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0ADoes anyone know what mushroom set was s uggested for=0Athis? I seem to remember the Cleveland =0Aset with rubber g uard (not the swivel).=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0AMike=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0ABuild er 40691. Working on my tail=85=8520 hrs=0Aso far.=0A =0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =========================0A -======================== ============0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A______________ ______________________________________________________________________=0AIt 's here! Your new message! =0AGet new email alerts with the free Yahoo! To olbar.=0Ahttp://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: How does this tank test kit work?
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Either I got a different kit, or we are looking at things differently, because it worked for me. You put a balloon on the vent fitting and seal it with a rubberband, put the tank fitting in the finger strainer and cap it with the cap that comes in the kit, then put the little valve stem dealy (technical term) in the sump hole, cap the tank with the filler cap and fill with air until the balloon fills up and then check for leaks. Hope this helps. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:54 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work? Unfortunately, almost everything in that kit is useless and doesn't apply to the -10. You will have to improvise most of it. Michael Sausen -10 #352 Limbo -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 2:02 PM Subject: RV10-List: How does this tank test kit work? Hello I purchased Vans tank test kit but how should this fuel feed cover is supposed to work? Am I missing something here? Regards Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91096#91096 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/20070128_wings_01_503.jpg -- 5:02 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Tools to Sell
Try ebay for the pneumatic squeezer. Use this for the search string, including the brackets. (squeezer,squeazer,squeezers,squeazers,squeeze,squeaze) (rivet, rivit) They are tough to find, but you may get lucky. Nothing on ebay now unless you are looking for a Tatco hand squeezer. Larry Rosen N205EN (reserved) Mike Doble (Home Office) wrote: > > All Im convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot > Dave Leikam). > > Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, Ill call > Avery or Cleveland Tool. > > Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the > tail cone skins without wrinkles. > > Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to > remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel). > > Mike > > Builder 40691. Working on my tail20 hrs so far. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday
p.m.
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Tim, Please put me down for 3 sets. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AndrewTR30 Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 10:03 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Tim, add me to the buyers list please. Andrew Rayhill Phoenix -------- Andrew Rayhill RV-10 40078 Phoenix Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91484#91484 -- 5:02 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: Re: IO 540 Performance
Date: Jan 30, 2007
I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540 - D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco. Power curves etc! Dave Emond 40159 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Fuel Return?
Date: Jan 30, 2007
This is how we did it in the tunnel (the line on the right above the brake line is the return line). It can then go out to that tank or can "T" into that line and you will want to pull from the other tank when purging the hot fuel (if you are doing it that way). Has anybody else lined up the fuel system to allow for straight lines connecting the pump, filter and flowscan? Am I missing the reason they are not lined up to start with? Hope this helps. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 6:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Return? Looking for input and suggestions on plumbing a fuel return. I'm planning ahead and installing it in preparation for a future electronic fuel system. And farther out the diesel engine................. ;-) Both systems will require a fuel return to the tank. With the Subaru's(Eggenfellner) needing this now I assume it's being done already. They have a good instruction page on how to install a return in -6A on their site. ERic-- -- 5:02 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Tools to Sell
toolsez on ebay http://stores.ebay.com/Toolsez-1 always has squeezers and guarantee the product for 90 days. They usually sell the squeezers (ab)used for between $255-300 range. There is a Tatco 214 3000 psi squeezer out there ends Feb5 (Sunday). If you're into taking chances this is a decent company to do so with. If I was going to buy a squeezer today (I would not tell everyone about this one ;-) I would bid on the Tatco since it's rare there is anything "new" for sale. But truthfully for a 125K plane I would just get the right tools and buy it new. No used power tools that may just not be smooth anymore for me, and ebay has many of those.. but than again you might just get lucky. You a gambling person? Ebay may be the place for your aircraft tools! Pascal opinion subject to change without notice with the right sales on ebay. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Rosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:28 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tools to Sell > > Try ebay for the pneumatic squeezer. > > Use this for the search string, including the brackets. > (squeezer,squeazer,squeezers,squeazers,squeeze,squeaze) (rivet, rivit) > > They are tough to find, but you may get lucky. Nothing on ebay now unless > you are looking for a Tatco hand squeezer. > > Larry Rosen > N205EN (reserved) > > Mike Doble (Home Office) wrote: >> >> All Im convinced now that I need a pneumatic squeezer (thanks a lot >> Dave Leikam). >> >> Any of you that are done want to part with yours??? If not, Ill call >> Avery or Cleveland Tool. >> >> Also, there was some discussion a few weeks ago about how to rivet the >> tail cone skins without wrinkles. >> >> Does anyone know what mushroom set was suggested for this? I seem to >> remember the Cleveland set with rubber guard (not the swivel). >> >> Mike >> >> Builder 40691. Working on my tail20 hrs so far. >> >> * >> >> >> * > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: IO 540 Performance
I believe Tim Olsen's site has everything you ever need for information. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave & Brenda Emond To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:43 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO 540 Performance I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540 - D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco. Power curves etc! Dave Emond 40159 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: IO 540 Performance
Date: Jan 30, 2007
At Tims web site: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/engine_IO540.html =========================================================== From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za> Date: 2007/01/30 Tue PM 12:43:59 EST Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO 540 Performance I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO 540 - D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco. Power curves etc! Dave Emond 40159 =========================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Return?
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
The one caveat I would like to put out there for Alternative engines users, is that in the Eggenfellner install, and any other that will require a high volume pump, the fuel should be returned to the same tank that it was drawn from, preventing an overflow situation. This is why we use a duplex fuel valve, so it automagically rolls the return line to the correct tank. Dan N289DT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 12:58 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Return? This is how we did it in the tunnel (the line on the right above the brake line is the return line). It can then go out to that tank or can "T" into that line and you will want to pull from the other tank when purging the hot fuel (if you are doing it that way). Has anybody else lined up the fuel system to allow for straight lines connecting the pump, filter and flowscan? Am I missing the reason they are not lined up to start with? Hope this helps. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 6:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Return? Looking for input and suggestions on plumbing a fuel return. I'm planning ahead and installing it in preparation for a future electronic fuel system. And farther out the diesel engine................. ;-) Both systems will require a fuel return to the tank. With the Subaru's(Eggenfellner) needing this now I assume it's being done already. They have a good instruction page on how to install a return in -6A on their site. ERic-- -- 5:02 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Fuel Return?
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Jesse, Does your fuel return have a separate selector? We plan to use the Andair duplex valve (p/n FS 20-20-D2) using -6 lines for both supply and return. We also built a "shelf" off the floor of the tunnel to mount the filter/pump/sensor to. This allowed us to put 2-3" of insulation directly on the tunnel floor under the pump/sensor. Also, we wrapped the brake lines with nylon spiral wrap in the tunnel. After the insulation was packed into the tunnel for a trial fit we found the brake and fuel lines could chafe on the shop heads of the rivets directly below them in the tunnel. Here's a few pictures of the lines, valve, pass-thrus, parking brake, and the center console. ERic-- 40014, N104EP ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Return? Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 12:57:43 -0500 This is how we did it in the tunnel (the line on the right above the brake line is the return line). It can then go out to that tank or can "T" into that line and you will want to pull from the other tank when purging the hot fuel (if you are doing it that way). Has anybody else lined up the fuel system to allow for straight lines connecting the pump, filter and flowscan? Am I missing the reason they are not lined up to start with? Hope this helps. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JmsFrnch(at)aol.com
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Subject: Re: Wow!
Tim Add me in to your extender list Jimmy French 150 Prestwick Drive Davenport FL 33897 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m.
Date: Jan 30, 2007
Of course I will need a pair. Jay Rowe #40301. 151 North Shore Lane, Winthrop, ME 04351 jfrjr(at)adelphia.net. Thanks Tim--just tell me where to send the check. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:41 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. > > Good news, everyone... > > Today I installed the axle extensions that my friend made from my > drawing and they worked out perfectly. I have some photos from > the install posted here: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20070118/index.html#Installation_of_new_extensions > > Now that I know they work, I'm going to do something stupid and > since some people found high machining costs, I'm going to coordinate > a group order for extensions that look like these. I had at least > 2 quotes come back with costs significantly lower than what other people > were saying. My earlier drawing might actually be more expensive to > make than the final product drawing too. I'll have to re-quote it to > see if pricing will be any lower. > > My present quote that I'd go on was: $17.75ea @ quantity 40 and > $24.50ea @ quantity 20. (20 pairs and 10 pairs respectively) > > Now, what I'm going to do it this: If you want these extensions > for your plane, I'm only planning to have one run made up, so get them > now. Let me know by Wednesday night, and Thursday a.m. I'll order > them from the machining company and get the hardware on it's > way to me. They need to get the aluminum stock, so there will be > a small delay before they start making them. > You do not need to send payment right away...Yes, I know, that's > stupid, but I'm planning to write a check for well over $1000 to > cover the production, but only if the buyers are willing to commit > to paying for them. > > What you'll get: > 1 PAIR of Axle entensions, all drilled and tapped, 3-3/8" long so > they don't require the large flat washer. They should directly > replace the original part. You'll also get (3) AN5-6A bolts, > so you have one as a spare, for bolting them to the axle nut. > You'll also get (3) MS24693C298 screws for the outer ends, that > will be 1/4" longer than original so they don't back out and fall > off as easily (mine almost came out...use loctite!) And, I'm > going to send you (3) MS24665-292 cotter pins, and (3) > MS24665-362 cotter pins, so you have all of the hardware required > to attach them. > > Your job: Drill your existing holes on the axle nuts out to 5/16" > and deburr (I deburred mine today because I miss all the deburring > so much ;) ) Then assemble the AN5 bolt/washer to the extension and > torque. Then, use a #40 drill through the guide hole and drill > out the hole and the bolt to #40. Pin them together with the small > cotter pins, install the axle nuts and pin with the large pins. > Then secure the fairing with the 1/4" stainless machine screw. > > Since this is something I'm not doing for profit, I'm going to > make it easy on myself. They'll all be picked up at the same > time, and I'll throw them all into USPS Priority mail at the > same time. I'll split the costs of everything evenly, and round > any costs up to the next highest dollar. When all is said and > done, I'll tell you if the total with shipping is any higher than > my expectations...which would be between $45 and $55 per pair, > all complete to your door with the hardware. > > One exception: Since this isn't for-profit in any way, I'm going > to make it easy on myself and limit it to the US continental 48 > states only so I can use USPS Priority mail. > > Again, I'll only be doing this group order one time, so if you want > them, now's the time. After this order, if for some reason I'm > crazy enough to do it again, I'd add on extra cost for the time, and > it might be harder to get a good list of people together to keep > the price down. If for some reason we can't get 10 people for > this order, I won't bother, but my gut feeling is that we'll probably > easily make the 20 pair (quantity 40) level. I just want to do this > because after installing them I know they worked well for me, and > it'll keep you all from spending a fortune on one-offs from your > local machinist. In the spirit of "no up front money" that > we have today, you can send your payment either via paypal > or by check after you get them. I know everyone will pay up, because > we're all nice people and if you don't, I'll tell the list on you. ;) > If you pay by paypal though, add a little to cover the fees that > they charge. Tips are not required, but will be accepted if you're > just so happy after getting them that you really want to. ;) > > If the price for any reason looks like it'll be over $60, I will not > proceed without contacting everyone who got on the list first. > > Email me at my email address if you want to get on the list. > > -- > Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying > > > -- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 30, 2007
From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>
Subject: Re: IO 540 Performance
I didn't see anything on weight, dry, with or without accessories. Is there much variation between the variants of the parallel valve engine? Pascal wrote: > I believe Tim Olsen's site has everything you ever need for information. > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Dave & Brenda Emond > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, January 30, 2007 9:43 AM > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: IO 540 Performance > > I am looking for a copy of the performance specs for a Lycoming IO > 540 - D4A5, or similar 260hp Lyco. > > Power curves etc! > > Dave Emond > 40159 > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > * > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel finger
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Jan 31, 2007
Hello, quick question. Is it normal that the fuel finger cannot be screwed in all the way? See picture in the link below: Thanks Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91795#91795 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel finger
Date: Jan 31, 2007
Yes, it is a pipe thread and it is tapered. Be careful and do not tighten it too much as you might spread the flange in the tank and crack it! On Jan 31, 2007, at 9:08 AM, Michael Wellenzohn wrote: > > > Hello, > > quick question. Is it normal that the fuel finger cannot be screwed > in all the way? > See picture in the link below: > > > Thanks Michael > > -------- > RV-10 builder (wings) > #511 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91795#91795 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday
p.m.
Date: Jan 31, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Hans, if you schedule allows the wait. I can hold them for your Oregon arrival in May. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hans-Dieter Aue Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 3:38 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV-10 Axle Extension Group Order - Reply by Wednesday p.m. Yes Tim, add me to the list. Since I'm located in Germany I will try to arrange a delivery spot in US. I will tell you a shipping address soon. Thanks for doing this. Hans-Dieter Aue Germany 40424 N110GH (reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91242#91242 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2007
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: manifold pressure connection
John, Does this help? http://www.rvproject.com/20030729.html Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Washer installation tool
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.net>
Date: Jan 31, 2007
David: I used almost all of the ideas you've read about and they worked to varying degrees; they just took a little longer. In a fit of weakness, I bought those ridiculously priced washer wrenches and they're really sweet and work well. If you'd like to borrow them, let me know and I'll run 'em over to you. Bob -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92017#92017 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Feb 01, 2007
Subject: Re: manifold pressure connection
John, Order the 1/4 barb from ACS that replaces Vans in the firewall. You can also get an adapter from any auto store.........they use them for the v acuum lines in cars. Heater lines or winshield washer lines. DEAN 40449 ________________________________________________________________________ Interested in getting caught up on today's news? Click here to checkout USA TODAY Headlines. http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=198954&u=http://www.usatoday.com/news/f ront.htm?csp=24

John,

Order the 1/4 barb from ACS that replaces Vans in the firewall.  You can also get an adapter from any auto store.........they use them f or the vacuum lines in cars.  Heater lines or winshield washer line s.

 

DEAN 40449



______________________ __________________________________________________
Interested in getting caught up on today's news?
Click here to checkout USA TODAY Headlines.


      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Fuel finger
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 01, 2007
Thank you for the information! Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92032#92032 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How does this tank test kit work?
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 01, 2007
Hello Jesse, my issue is actually that the finger strainer has an inside thread as well as the cap. So I guess I am missing the tank fitting? Did it come with the wing kit? Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92033#92033 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Boone" <david555(at)cox.net>
Subject: 600 Hp RV10 on Ebay
Date: Feb 01, 2007
For those interested, There is a RV 10 advertised on Ebay that includes a 600 HP corvette engine with 120 gallon tanks. Item # 180081108309. I think Van could legitimately call this one a Hot Rodder. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2007
From: jimandlaura <jimandlaura(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Return?Fuel Return?Fuel Return?
Linn, As far as I know, the return line is only needed if you have an injected engine with a high pressure electric fuel pump. The electric fuel pump will have an over-pressurization line that needs to be run somewhere, preferably back into one or more tanks. The way Im setting mine up is to run an extra line from my right tank for this purpose. Im not spending $500 bucks just to be able to select my return tank, come on! Anyway, putting a T in your main fuel line is a bad idea. Youre just asking to suck air into your line. Not a good thing! v/r, Jim R jimandlaura(at)peoplepc.com 40191, Finishing ________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 01, 2007
Subject: Re: The project is mine!
In a message dated 2/1/07 9:16:18 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes: --> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters Well guys/gals, yesterday I took delivery of a mostly-built RV-10 kit. Pete Eslick of Leeward Air Ranch built a heck-of-lot of the fast-build kit, and to my unpracticed eye ..... he did some excellent workmanship. His mission changed and my family is the recipient of his hard work. I'm kind of sad for him, but happy for us. It's the mixed emotions kind of thing. Do not feel sorry for Pete, though, as he has some very fine toys to play with ...... a single place Sukhoi, and an L-3 project. The L-3 project is further along than the RV-10 though. By buying a kit mostly done how will this effect your ability to file for a repairman's licenses? P ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Return?Fuel Return?Fuel Return?
I guess I am having difficulty seeing the need. Yes, Continental fuel injection and some others operate with a return line, but Bendix fuel injection systems, at least on the 4 cyl Lycomings do not have any fuel return line, and they work just fine. My Mooney fuel system consists of a Dukes electric high pressure pump in the belly, feeding an AC mechanical high pressure pump on the engine, then going to the Bendix fuel servo. It operates in the 24-28 psi range. From the fuel selector to the fuel distributor there is a single line, with the pumps in series. I suspect that the certified installs of six cylinder Lycomings is very similar. On 2/1/07, jimandlaura wrote: > > Linn, > > As far as I know, the return line is only needed if you have an injected engine with a high pressure electric fuel pump. The electric fuel pump will have an over-pressurization line that needs to be run somewhere, preferably back into one or more tanks. The way I'm setting mine up is to run an extra line from my right tank for this purpose. I'm not spending $500 bucks just to be able to select my return tank, come on! Anyway, putting a T in your main fuel line is a bad idea. You're just asking to suck air into your line. Not a good thing! > > v/r, Jim R > jimandlaura(at)peoplepc.com > 40191, Finishing > > ________________________________________ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Return?Fuel Return?Fuel Return?
Date: Feb 01, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
Just be careful that all of that fuel from your full left tank is not ported overboard from your full right tank when you first turn on the engine. The flow rate on the pumps is quite high and can quickly overfill the tank. Besides the Andair valve just looks cool, as evidenced by people making the anodized handles for the Vans valves to look like the Andair ones. It just makes it easier to use a duplex valve. When you look at accident reports and one of the highest incidents is still fuel starvation, I was not willing to mess with fuel management. For $500 it was worth it to not have to worry about which tank I am drawing fuel from and which tank I am returning it to. With your setup you would always have to start out on the right tank to make room for the fuel from the left tank, and if you forget to switch from left to right, it is pretty likely you will run it over and dump fuel. Just my thoughts, the fuel system is not an area to be manipulated without allot of analysis. Dan N289DT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimandlaura Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:42 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Return?Fuel Return?Fuel Return? Linn, As far as I know, the return line is only needed if you have an injected engine with a high pressure electric fuel pump. The electric fuel pump will have an over-pressurization line that needs to be run somewhere, preferably back into one or more tanks. The way I'm setting mine up is to run an extra line from my right tank for this purpose. I'm not spending $500 bucks just to be able to select my return tank, come on! Anyway, putting a T in your main fuel line is a bad idea. You're just asking to suck air into your line. Not a good thing! v/r, Jim R jimandlaura(at)peoplepc.com 40191, Finishing ________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 600 Hp RV10 on Ebay
Date: Feb 01, 2007
From: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com>
Maybe it's just my eyes, but aren't most of those skins held on with copper clecos? That's a lot of 1/8" rivets, would that really add to the structural integrity? Vern _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Boone Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 5:40 AM Subject: RV10-List: 600 Hp RV10 on Ebay For those interested, There is a RV 10 advertised on Ebay that includes a 600 HP corvette engine with 120 gallon tanks. Item # 180081108309. I think Van could legitimately call this one a Hot Rodder. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: manifold pressure connection
Unless you have a turbo, or the engine isn't running, it is always suction. It is marked as inches of mercury, just like a barometer, so 25" is 4" of suction. Idling at 12" you have about 18" of suction. That is why it should read pretty close to altimeter setting when the engine is stopped. On 2/1/07, Jesse Saint wrote: As I understand it, it's suction, not pressure, and very little > at that. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: good deal of the day
Date: Feb 01, 2007
RV 10 Airplane with 600+Horsepower Item number: 180081108309 I saw this for sale on E-bay. WOW - why am i wasting my time with a 200mph machine when i could have 300mph capability? Paul #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: good deal of the day
Date: Feb 01, 2007
Why didn't the builder rivet this thing together as he went along. Tailcone and fuselage in clecoes and a lot of 1/8" instead of 3/32". Don't understand that. Oh well. Certainly less than 50% completed, wouldn't have any problem qualifying for repairman certificate IMHO. Sell the engine ( didn't see that in the pictures ) and buy something else. Primer anyone? John Hasbrouck #40264 Mine looks like that but without the clecoes. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: good deal of the day
You want 300mph, buy a Lancair IV!! ----- Original Message ----- From: eagerlee To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: good deal of the day RV 10 Airplane with 600+Horsepower Item number: 180081108309 I saw this for sale on E-bay. WOW - why am i wasting my time with a 200mph machine when i could have 300mph capability? Paul #40203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: panel lettering fonts?
Date: Feb 01, 2007
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey all - I perused the archives on this and didn't come up with anything... what fonts are people using for panel lettering and the like? I'm making stuff. Airplane stuff. That needs labels. Cool ones. Also, anyone know what fonts the certified folks use in different aircraft? Mooney, beech, Adam etc? just a shot in the dark. cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Washer installation tool
Date: Feb 01, 2007
Bob, Thank you. When it is time to put the control surfaces back on, we will definitely take you up on your kind offer. David On Jan 31, 2007, at 10:48 PM, Bob Collins wrote: David: I used almost all of the ideas you've read about and they worked to varying degrees; they just took a little longer. In a fit of weakness, I bought those ridiculously priced washer wrenches and they're really sweet and work well. If you'd like to borrow them, let me know and I'll run 'em over to you. Bob -------- Bob Collins St. Paul, Minn. RV Builder's Hotline (free!) http://rvhotline.expercraft.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92017#92017 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Nose Gear Wheelpant/Strut Fairing Clearance
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 02, 2007
Any flying Rv10's out there know if the 1/4" clearance between the nosegear wheelpant and the nosegear strut fairing is enough? Any rub issues from normal use? Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92242#92242 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)AOL.COM
Date: Feb 02, 2007
Subject: Re: Interesting panel-mount handheld GPS comment
Tim posted... I saw this in today's AOPA newsletter: FAA MAY TAKE AWAY PANEL-MOUNT OPTION FOR PORTABLE GPS Think your portable GPS would work great mounted to your old Cessna 172's instrument panel? >From what I see, the LSA folks are creating or mounting portable devices in their panels. I'm not an expert on FAR regs...now CIR's but isn't there an item somewhere about permanent mounted devices needing FAA approval...I think the FAA may have been a little lax in recent years on the LSA crowd since most of them are approved oversea's and with the conventions they must accept what other countries have approved unless safety is compromised. This may be a statement from them (FAA) laying a line in the sand on production products...probably will not affect experimental's, though. P ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Door trim
Date: Feb 02, 2007
I have a question regarding Door trimming. On page 45-10 figures 1,2,3 show the doors being trimmed till they fit just inside the openings on the fuse. I have sanded the hinge side till it fits that way. My question is. Did most of you builders do this while the door was on the hinges and sand away till the fit is correct or is there a better way. Additionally, which came first the fit or the bevel or was the sanding done on a bevel to accomplish both at the same time. Lastly, is the trim bevel shown on this page completely around the door opening. Thanks for your responses or pictures. Tad Sargent (working on the dusty parts) RV10 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting panel-mount handheld GPS comment
Let me take you through the logic of the regs as I understand them..not that any FAA inspector would agree. ;-) Primary reference is Appendix A of FAR 43. The Airgizmo mount could be considered a cover plate for a blank space in a radio rack...clearly a minor modification. Portable devices connected by temporary, quick disconnects, such as cigar lighter socket are clearly NOT installed devices, and are for pilot and passenger amusement and not legal for use in navigation.(that might be debatable for a portable navcom with VOR that meets the VOR check rule. Connecting wiring to said quick disconnect with proper fusing and aircraft quality wiring may be considered a minor mod, although some will argue that it could be major, depending on potential implications to overall electrical system. Assemble all that together, and plug in a portable GPS, and you have 1. a minor modification, 2. a controversy. KM A&P/IA PS: I'll be real interested to see how much, if any discussion there is on this point at my IA renewal sessions next month. On 2/2/07, GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote: > > Tim posted... > > I saw this in today's AOPA newsletter: > > FAA MAY TAKE AWAY PANEL-MOUNT OPTION FOR PORTABLE GPS > Think your portable GPS would work great mounted to your old Cessna > 172's instrument panel? > > From what I see, the LSA folks are creating or mounting portable devices in > their panels. I'm not an expert on FAR regs...now CIR's but isn't there an > item somewhere about permanent mounted devices needing FAA approval...I > think the FAA may have been a little lax in recent years on the LSA crowd > since most of them are approved oversea's and with the conventions they must > accept what other countries have approved unless safety is compromised. > > This may be a statement from them (FAA) laying a line in the sand on > production products...probably will not affect experimental's, though. > > P > > > - The RV10-List Email Forum - > to browse > Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, > much more: > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > the Web Forums! > http://forums.matronics.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Firewalls and proseal
Date: Feb 02, 2007
From: "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com>
Just an FYI: Chapters 27 and 28 mentions using "proseal" to seal the firewall seams. The plans offer no further explanation than this. Proseal is proseal right? No. My Tech. counselor pointed out this is high temperature sealant not the stuff used on the fuel tanks. So just for fun I put a propane torch on a small sample of cured proseal left over from the fuel tanks. This stuff burns almost as well as marshmallows! The fact the can says Flamemaster (Company name) doesn't help clarify things either. I know it's probably 'in the archives.' But unless it was pointed out I would have not known there was a difference. Hope this save someone some grief. Good news it was caught before I used the wrong sealant:-) Vern Smith (#324) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Interesting panel-mount handheld GPS comment
>You do not find that in a hand-held GPS. I don't know about the others, but my GPSMAP 296 has a white ALARM wire that you can hookup to a relay to drive a buzzer, light, or whatever you want. The signal activates whenever a message pops up on the display, such as "GPS SIGNAL LOST" along with about a hundred other messages. The signal does work, but curiously there's no mention of that wire in my 296 manual. -Jim 40384 linn Walters wrote: > > One of the requirements of a panel mounted GPS (I think) is that it > have a separate attachment that warns of signal loss (raim?) that is > in the pilot's view when he scans the instruments. You do not find > that in a hand-held GPS. In fact, your handheld GPS may go TU and you > won't notice for quite a while ...... when you notice that the GPS > airplane is parked somewhere far behind you. Bad news in an IFR > environment. Ranks up there with a gyro compass that dies on ya > because the vacuum pump failed. > Tim is right .... with the FAA, it's all about safety ...... trying to > protect us from ourselves and our penchant for taking the > less-espensive-route (notice I didn't say cheap) and relying on > something that may just not be fully functional when you need it. > > Lets take a handheld radio. You can buy one for a whole lot less than > a panel mount, and it'll be as good or better in it's operation. Even > has a VOR display!!! But it's PORTABLE and it runs on batteries. > Batteries run down and then it's useless. Kinda like my AnywhereMap > on a trip! So you plug it into ships power ...... and the jack fails, > or the cable fails ..... pick any scenario ..... and now you're > stuck. What do you do when your headste mike takes a dump???? Do you > have another mic plugged in that you can use? Have you tried your > hand mic lately??? Most die and are never replaced .... and yeah, I'm > guilty here too. I feel naked when I can't communicate ..... or > navigate ..... > > And back to your GPS ...... do you regularly tune in your VOR receiver > to make sure it's still working??? I'll be a lot of you don't. When > your GPS croaks, it's a bad time to find out your VOR won't tune or > died somehow. > > Just a few things to think about, and I'm not pointing fingers here > ..... if I get a few folks to really think aboout the complacency > thingy ..... I'm happy. > Linn > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Interesting panel-mount handheld GPS comment
Sure, we can make the cockpit safer...ban all portable electronic devices, especially game boys, dvd players and Ipods from aircraft cockpit. Ban cigar lighter receptacles. Put the TC aircraft pilots back to VOR, ADF and Loran until they can afford a certified panel mount GPS. That will really enhance safety. I see it now, kids in back seat, with "are we there yet" syndrome, with nothing but crayons and coloring books, "helping" the pilot's concentration. While we are at it, might as well ban all the panel mount VFR GPS's that have the same shortcomings as the portables. Yup, Uncle is here to protect us from ourselves. On 2/2/07, linn Walters wrote: > > One of the requirements of a panel mounted GPS (I think) is that it have > a separate attachment that warns of signal loss (raim?) that is in the > pilot's view when he scans the instruments. You do not find that in a > hand-held GPS. In fact, your handheld GPS may go TU and you won't > notice for quite a while ...... when you notice that the GPS airplane is > parked somewhere far behind you. Bad news in an IFR environment. Ranks > up there with a gyro compass that dies on ya because the vacuum pump failed. > Tim is right .... with the FAA, it's all about safety ...... trying to > protect us from ourselves and our penchant for taking the > less-espensive-route (notice I didn't say cheap) and relying on > something that may just not be fully functional when you need it. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: [Fwd: RV-List: Re: I've sworn off purge valve installations]
Given past discussions here on purge valves, I'm forwarding from the RV list this important safety information. ---------------------------- Original Message ---------------------------- Subject: RV-List: Re: I've sworn off purge valve installations From: "kahuna" <mike.stewart(at)us.ibm.com> Date: Fri, February 2, 2007 11:21 am -------------------------------------------------------------------------- --> RV-List message posted by: "kahuna" Well here I am again with this topic because I have some new data for you. Last month an RV-4 N360WS, based at my airport, had an engine failure while enroute and landed in a field. Pilot had his 10 yr old son with him. Both are ok. Plane is totaled. FAA has just completed its findings. PURGE VALVE FAILURE. Yep thats right. The pilot/builder did the same thing I did. Mounted and plumbed it without knowing that the little screws had to be safety wired. I was fortunate. HE was not. While he survived his off field, his show quality RV-4 is now in the heap pile. He also did not use his valve except for shut down. So I ask you... What are the chances that this is some isolated problem. 2 guys, from the same field, within a month of each other, with a failure of the purge valve? You still think its edge case? I say to you again, I have sworn them off my planes. Not needed on an RV, adds both complexity and failure modes. And if you have not checked your purge valve for the screws being safety wired, I suggest you get right on it. Sorry to bring this up again, but I feel at least compelled to bring you the data. See ya, Mike [quote="mstewart(at)iss.net"]After my second failure in a couple thousand hours of running fuel injection with pruge valves, I have concluded they are unnecessary and can have multiple failure modes that can bring you down. As many of you know Airflow Performance of Spartanburg SC sells a terrific fuel injection system for all kinds of engines. from boats, to dragsters, to planes. I have had their system on 2 RV's and have had 2 failures in the purge system. The purpose in the purge valve is simple. On a hot start, pull the valve, turn your pump on, and allow the hot vapors out for a few seconds. Close the valve and start your normal hot start procedures. On my RV-6 I had the purge vale return line running into the cockpit and into a tee on the fuel inlet near the tank selector switch. AFP recommends this returning back to the tank, but I felt this to be too complex an installation. One day, while scudding back from SnF, close to home base, with Michelle in the right seat, the engine coughed and would barely run. I managed to limp home. After weeks of troubleshooting, it turned out that I had a crack in a tube FWF on the purge return line. This crack was allowing air into the return line, and hence air into the fuel flow to the engine. After this incident I decided on my next plane, I would NOT put the purge return line into the fuel supply system. This failure could have put me and my wife in the trees. On my 8, I ran the purge return into the left tank vent. Thought being, let the vapors and a little fuel run to the ground. Don't let a line leak here spoil my fuel. So on a trip last week with several RV's and wifes to NYC for a play and a movie, plane died on landing rollout in NJ. ARGH! We finished our weekend getaway with the wife's, but on Sunday I put wife on a Delta flight home and began troubleshooting. What I found was the plane was way lean in running and would barely idle below 1500. I removed the fuel inlet to the servo and there was plenty of fuel going in, but the engine was not getting it. I checked screens and a few other things and no joy. I decided it was the servo not metering the fuel properly. I finally decided I try taking off and climbing to altitude and see if mother nature would richen it with altitude. Sure enough, around 7k' I would get egt's at peak, and at 10k' I could run a little ROP. BUT the fuel flow was +4gph more than normal. H! ow could that be? I dunno, but it was running smooth and I flew her home to Atlanta. Safe in my own hanger, I removed the servo and flow divider and sent it to AFP. Don returned it with no problem found. ARGH! Spent the weekend troubleshooting and found the problem. The Purge valve was leaking internally and some fuel was by passing and going to the return side. Actually a lot of fuel was going to the return. This was causing lean operation and high fuel flow. I have now sent this to AFP for repair. I also suspect that this valve has been sending fuel to the return all along in the past 300 hours. I have gotten from day 1, and unexplained +1.5gph with my boost pump on. In a couple thousand hours of RV injected operation in multiple aircraft, I have not found I needed this purge valve function for hot starts. In fact all I really use it for is to shut down the engine. Hot starts are easily handled with proper technique. I have now sworn off this purge valve madness as it provides no value in an RV and multiple failure modes. Thought some of you might find this information useful. Best, Mike Stewart > [b] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92355#92355 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: A safety reminder.
Date: Feb 02, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Safety reminder for this Spring and beyond from another list. Jeff Edwards Wrote and again is right on target: "Here is how you can reduce your chance of ending up in a pile of aluminum or carbon at the end of the runway 1. train with a qualified instructor every 6 months-- practice makes perfect 2. practice emergency procedures often-- know your procedures cold 3. don't fly into thunderstorms 4. stay instrument proficient (that means real damn good) 5. don't fly the airplane when it is broke 6. don't do anything stupid" Jeff Edwards was a Navy Crash Investigator, now is a private contract investigator on fatal OBAM statistics. He speaks regularly at High Performance Proficiency Training. We just had a remarkable pilot buy another local guys Harmon RV with IO-540 and within moments of flying home (after purchase) to Ohio ran into a fuel starvation issue. He is fine, his new purchase is not. Many probably saw it on the national news. Stay smart... Fly often. Build Wisely John Cox #40600 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
Subject: How to Get the RV-10 Out the Workshop Door
Date: Feb 02, 2007
I need the outside distance from main gear to main gear, assuming the engine, fuselage and tailcone are all attached. This is the likely configuration that will be pushed out the door. I have checked Tim Olsen's excellent site, and have almost all the dimensions, except for this one. That is to say, the engine to tailcone measures 22.5 feet, and the cabin top to the floor measures 80 inches. The greatest width seems to be from wing stub to wing stub, at 57 inches. But then, oops, I forgot about the gear! Hopefully all this will fit through a standard 8 foot wide by 8 foot tall roll-up garage door. Why am I asking? I have to build the workshop, and want to make sure I get it right (did I mention the door has to be on the side of the building, since I live on a hill?) Another question - is it feasible to wait and put the fuselage on the gear once it is out the door? Your data and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tim Olsen, if we get a good number, please add it to your "Work Area Tips and Workspace Requirements" site. Bill (and Jon) Reining 40514 tailcone ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 02, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: How to Get the RV-10 Out the Workshop Door, Door Width,
Garage, main wheel distance Here are a bunch of posts I have saved on garage door requirements. I hope it reads ok, I removed all the author names and removed those words that keep this info out of the @ R C H I V E S Some of you may read your words and if you would like credit just let us know 7'9" on gear with no wheels or tires on. It may spread a little with the weight of the engine. NEXT I think you're right around 8'. I used a 108" wide trailer to haul it to the airport and I had 4 or 6 inches on the outsides of each tire. If you plan for 9' wide, you should definitely have plenty of room. That's not exact, but it should be close. I think when we were measuring the tire-center widths for where to put the ramps to the trailer, it was about 93 or 94" apart. Check the three view drawing (available on Tim's site), it's 7' 4" to the center of the tires.. I have the same issue. Ahhh, you may be right on. In the email I just posted I said we measured 93 or 94" when setting up the ramps. I think that wasn't tire centers, but was the outside edges of the ramps, which would be about right if the tire centers were 88". ANOTHER POST I got this straight from Vans when I started: "The tires are about 90" center to center - it "will fit on a standard 8' wide flatbed The height of the fuse at the cabin is approx 79" - maybe a little more without the weight of the wings." AND ANOTHER We built ours in my oversized single stall garage. Rough dimensions were 13X26 ft with a 10X10 ft work area in the front. The door is 8ft by 6'6" high. We kept the fuselage on temporary gear for as long as we could and had to slide it out the door with the main wheels off. Many pieces were fitted and then removed to be reinstalled later. For example we used a nice summer day to push the tail out the door to mount the VS and HS. Final assembly is taking place in a hangar at the airport. We have pictures if you have a specific question I could answer. NEXT I remember a thread last year about distance between the mains and comments that an 8' door width should be ok. I checked my plans and the A0 orthographic drawing identified as DWG 1 shows a distance of 7'4" (88") between bottom main centres. I measured my door openings and they came in at 94" - no problemo (me thinks). The bad news came tonight. Because of the camber, the maximum distance between the outside edges of the mains is 94.5" (with no weight on the gear). It will fit through if I remove the wheels. I have also read a suggestion to squeeze the legs together using a strap. Can anyone vouch for that method? Some rough geometry suggests the fuse will fit if it is manouvered sideways through the door (rather than straight through) - has anyone had any success? AND A RESPONSE I can vouch both for the straps and for cocking it off to the side a little. The fuse will fit in a standard shipping container (without the rods for the wheel pants), but needs a strap and needs to be turned a little to fit in. Getting out of the garage door should not be too hard if you turn it to the side a little, get one wheel out and then slide it over a little to get the other out. Either or both of these methods should help you get the plane out without taking it off the gear. You will save a max of maybe an inch or two without the wheels on, I think, but it looks like you only need another half an inch. I think one of the above methods should take care of you for just half and inch. AND ANOTHER RESPONSE Sounds like you could get by by removing one main wheel and devising a teporary caster wheel or slide to get it out the door and remount the main. We had to get ours lower and narrower to get it out the door and divised a temporary axle inside the hollow portion of the main gear and put a small wheel on it. Lots of ways to do it. Good luck. HERE IS ONE ON DOOR HEIGHT I could roll the plane in and out of the garage with the wheels and canopy on. My door is also 7' tall. You have 2 to 3 inches of clearance. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV10 Video from Down Under
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 02, 2007
Found this on You Tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM9cqINzolc&mode=related&search Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92507#92507 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: jimandlaura <jimandlaura(at)peoplepc.com>
Subject: Too funny
Man, you guys are have been providing a lot of entertainment this past week. I have a bet going with my wife that someone was going to pass out over all the excitement over these axle extenders. Who's willing to fess up? Some of you have a lot of extra money, I can tell; 125 bones for about six inches of round stock and 500 bones for fuel selector valves, wow! Nice job on Tim for getting the price down, but still $50 is a lot of money to me. I'll just get some 3/4" round stock, drill and tap a couple holes, nothing to it. Remember, we are assembling a four place airplane here, I think we should be able to make a couple axle extenders, IMHO. I'm positive Van's would back me up on that. Jim R 40191, Finishing ________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Too funny
Date: Feb 03, 2007
"There is no problem, that cannot be fixed by infusing large amounts of cash at it while building the first ever Steinway quality/Airbus panel, RV aircraft". But hey isn't that what money is for? Tad ----- Original Message ----- From: "jimandlaura" <jimandlaura(at)peoplepc.com> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 3:26 AM Subject: RV10-List: Too funny > > Man, you guys are have been providing a lot of entertainment this past > week. I have a bet going with my wife that someone was going to pass out > over all the excitement over these axle extenders. Who's willing to fess > up? Some of you have a lot of extra money, I can tell; 125 bones for > about six inches of round stock and 500 bones for fuel selector valves, > wow! Nice job on Tim for getting the price down, but still $50 is a lot > of money to me. I'll just get some 3/4" round stock, drill and tap a > couple holes, nothing to it. Remember, we are assembling a four place > airplane here, I think we should be able to make a couple axle extenders, > IMHO. I'm positive Van's would back me up on that. > > Jim R > 40191, Finishing > > ________________________________________ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <dc71(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: RV10 Video from Down Under
Date: Feb 03, 2007
Pilot is Simon Pike, Australia's most prolific RV builder(well over 20 - not sure of exact number) This plane his 3rd RV10. Chatting to him a few months ago - he thinks the fibreglass work on the 10 takes 50% of the work! Indran -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8 Sent: Saturday, 3 February 2007 12:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Video from Down Under Found this on You Tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM9cqINzolc&mode=related&search Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92507#92507 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RV10 Video from Down Under
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
If this was truly a first flight. The Aussies must have more lax regulations about carrying a second cameraperson aboard the flight. Nice video though. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8 Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 7:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Video from Down Under Found this on You Tube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM9cqINzolc&mode=related&search Zack -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92507#92507 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: RV10 Video from Down Under
Ozzie regulations are identical for all practical purposes to US. We run into problems with instrument quality etc when we want to equip our craft for IFR - CASA (equivalent of FAA down under) is not leniet in it's beaurocratic views and things are done to the letter of the law, not the spirit. I'm sure that this is Simon's second RV-10 - that's what he told me last July. Workmanship is superb and even I, after only one visit, could recognise the fields of Temora on Kaos's video. Well done Simon! Rodger --- "John W. Cox" wrote: > > > If this was truly a first flight. The Aussies must > have more lax > regulations about carrying a second cameraperson > aboard the flight. > Nice video though. > > John Cox > #40600 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On > Behalf Of zackrv8 > Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 7:55 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: RV10 Video from Down Under > > > > Found this on You Tube. > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM9cqINzolc&mode=related&search > > Zack > > -------- > RV8 #80125 > RV10 # 40512 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92507#92507 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > Web Forums! > > > > > ___________________________________________________________ New Yahoo! Mail is the ultimate force in competitive emailing. Find out more at the Yahoo! Mail Championships. Plus: play games and win prizes. http://uk.rd.yahoo.com/evt=44106/*http://mail.yahoo.net/uk ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How to Get the RV-10 Out the Workshop Door
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Date: Feb 03, 2007
I just measured mine at the top of the tire and without the wings on the plane. Distance from center to center at the top of the tire is 89", and edge to edge is 94". Obvisously if you've got the axle extensions on for the wheel pants you'll have to also add that in. Bob #40105 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92627#92627 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
For those who have finished your plane or previous planes. I'm interested in your real life experience regarding whether you've experienced or noticed any sag in your engine since initially mounting it. I've heard that after a hundred or two hundred hours that the engine will settle on the mounts which results in the prop dropping ( 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" , ?????). Is this a real phenomena or an urban airport myth? If its real, how much 'sag' have you experienced? I'm leery of adding a 'fudge factor' not knowing exactly what it should be, and 1/8" tolerance isn't what I'd like to achieve. Am I striving for the holy grail? It seems like there ought to be a better way to ensure things fit after flying for a while I'm in the process of installing my cowl and would like to have it and the spinner mate evenly when it's all said and done. Thanks for any information received Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
Date: Feb 03, 2007
I have looked at this. If there is any sag in N256H, it is 1/8" or less. It is not enough to be very noticeable after 300 hours. YMMV, but this is what I have seen. I would recommend rigging it up about 1/8" or 1/16" to allow for it, but even at this you have to look closely to notice this difference. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question For those who have finished your plane or previous planes. I'm interested in your real life experience regarding whether you've experienced or noticed any sag in your engine since initially mounting it. I've heard that after a hundred or two hundred hours that the engine will settle on the mounts which results in the prop dropping ( 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" , ?????). Is this a real phenomena or an urban airport myth? If its real, how much 'sag' have you experienced? I'm leery of adding a 'fudge factor' not knowing exactly what it should be, and 1/8" tolerance isn't what I'd like to achieve. Am I striving for the holy grail? It seems like there ought to be a better way to ensure things fit after flying for a while I'm in the process of installing my cowl and would like to have it and the spinner mate evenly when it's all said and done. Thanks for any information received Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ -- 11:39 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 03, 2007
Deems, I mounted my spinner bulkhead flush with the top of the cowl on my RV8. I have the regular motor mount rubber (non aerobatic). After 1000 hours and many aerobatic flights up to 4 G's, I have no sag. Of course, my 4 cylinder doesn't weigh as much as the 6 cylinder engines. I plan on mounting my RV10 spinner flush. Zack Deems Davis wrote: > For those who have finished your plane or previous planes. I'm > interested in your real life experience regarding whether you've > experienced or noticed any sag in your engine since initially mounting > it. I've heard that after a hundred or two hundred hours that the engine > will settle on the mounts which results in the prop dropping ( 1/8", > 3/16", 1/4" , ?????). Is this a real phenomena or an urban airport myth? > If its real, how much 'sag' have you experienced? I'm leery of adding a > 'fudge factor' not knowing exactly what it should be, and 1/8" tolerance > isn't what I'd like to achieve. Am I striving for the holy grail? It > seems like there ought to be a better way to ensure things fit after > flying for a while I'm in the process of installing my cowl and would > like to have it and the spinner mate evenly when it's all said and done. > > Thanks for any information received > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92676#92676 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
Date: Feb 03, 2007
Deems, my 7A has had a 360 on the nose for 2 years and 200 hours flying time. I have negligible sag. Make it look good now. You will never notice it again when you get flying. Tad Sargent ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:28 PM Subject: RV10-List: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question > > For those who have finished your plane or previous planes. I'm interested > in your real life experience regarding whether you've experienced or > noticed any sag in your engine since initially mounting it. I've heard > that after a hundred or two hundred hours that the engine will settle on > the mounts which results in the prop dropping ( 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" , > ?????). Is this a real phenomena or an urban airport myth? If its real, > how much 'sag' have you experienced? I'm leery of adding a 'fudge factor' > not knowing exactly what it should be, and 1/8" tolerance isn't what I'd > like to achieve. Am I striving for the holy grail? It seems like there > ought to be a better way to ensure things fit after flying for a while I'm > in the process of installing my cowl and would like to have it and the > spinner mate evenly when it's all said and done. > > Thanks for any information received > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
Wow, This list is great! I also posted the same question on VAF. While there's some difference of opinion, the majority of the real life responses indicated little or no noticeable sag after several hunderd (1600) hours and many years. The other piece of useful information was that if some sag does occur and you want to take it out. a couple of properly sized washers at the annual condition inspection would take care of the problem. So. I've decided to make it fit flush now, and adjust if and when it gets noticable and annoying. THANKS again for all who have replied. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Now if getting the seam tight and straight between the cowl and fuse was just as easy.................................. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Too funny
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
The even funnier thing is that you are saying $50 bucks is allot of money and you are finishing a 10. Don't you know the some money category starts at 4 digits, and allot of money starts at 5 digits? GRIN Dan N289DT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jimandlaura Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 3:27 AM Subject: RV10-List: Too funny Man, you guys are have been providing a lot of entertainment this past week. I have a bet going with my wife that someone was going to pass out over all the excitement over these axle extenders. Who's willing to fess up? Some of you have a lot of extra money, I can tell; 125 bones for about six inches of round stock and 500 bones for fuel selector valves, wow! Nice job on Tim for getting the price down, but still $50 is a lot of money to me. I'll just get some 3/4" round stock, drill and tap a couple holes, nothing to it. Remember, we are assembling a four place airplane here, I think we should be able to make a couple axle extenders, IMHO. I'm positive Van's would back me up on that. Jim R 40191, Finishing ________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
Date: Feb 03, 2007
After 5 years and over 700 hrs, my spinner has sagged about 3/16". I had always thought I would put some washers in to raise it, but when I tried to there were interference problems with the airscoop. Every plane is different - I just left mine the way it is because there wasn't enough room to modify the front of my airbox. If you start out with the spinner flush with the cowl it will still look good even if it sags 1/8". Kevin Belue RV-6A flying RV10 finish ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 6:17 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question > > Wow, This list is great! I also posted the same question on VAF. While > there's some difference of opinion, the majority of the real life > responses indicated little or no noticeable sag after several hunderd > (1600) hours and many years. The other piece of useful information was > that if some sag does occur and you want to take it out. a couple of > properly sized washers at the annual condition inspection would take care > of the problem. So. I've decided to make it fit flush now, and adjust if > and when it gets noticable and annoying. > THANKS again for all who have replied. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > > Now if getting the seam tight and straight between the cowl and fuse was > just as easy.................................. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Perry Casson-home" <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: MT governor arm
Date: Feb 03, 2007
Hi All, It appears the MT governor that came as part of the Vans FWF kit has the arm in the wrong position for the way we mount the control cable. I found an old post saying to loosen the six screws on the governor and rotate the arm assembly. I know nothing about prop governors so I though I'd confirm that this is what the rest of you have done before messing with the governor. Thanks, Perry Casson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: MT governor arm
Yep, just refer to other people's photos for the orientation if you can't visualize it yourself, but it's just that easy. No big deal at all. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Perry Casson-home wrote: > Hi All, > > It appears the MT governor that came as part of the Vans FWF kit has the > arm in the wrong position for the way we mount the control cable. I > found an old post saying to loosen the six screws on the governor and > rotate the arm assembly. I know nothing about prop governors so I > though Id confirm that this is what the rest of you have done before > messing with the governor. > > Thanks, > > Perry Casson > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2007
From: Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
450 hours in an RV-6A. It was a myth until around 250-300 hours. It has n ow sagged about 3/16 to 1/4. =0ASeems to have stopped, but who can tell. Next big annual I plan on putting washers on the bottom mounts.=0A=0ABruce Patton=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@ cox.net>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, February 3, 2007 1 0:28:32 AM=0ASubject: RV10-List: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question=0A=0A=0A--> RV10 -List message posted by: Deems Davis =0A=0AFor those wh o have finished your plane or previous planes. I'm =0Ainterested in your re al life experience regarding whether you've =0Aexperienced or noticed any s ag in your engine since initially mounting =0Ait. I've heard that after a h undred or two hundred hours that the engine =0Awill settle on the mounts wh ich results in the prop dropping ( 1/8", =0A3/16", 1/4" , ?????). Is this a real phenomena or an urban airport myth? =0AIf its real, how much 'sag' ha ve you experienced? I'm leery of adding a =0A'fudge factor' not knowing exa ctly what it should be, and 1/8" tolerance =0Aisn't what I'd like to achiev e. Am I striving for the holy grail? It =0Aseems like there ought to be a better way to ensure things fit after =0Aflying for a while I'm in the proc ess of installing my cowl and would =0Alike to have it and the spinner mate evenly when it's all said and done.=0A=0AThanks for any information receiv ed=0A=0ADeems Davis # 406=0AFinishing - ( A Misnomer ! )=0Ahttp://deemsrv10 == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: MT governor arm
Date: Feb 03, 2007
As Tim mentioned, yes, you just loosen (do not remove) the screws and rotate the whole ring. The governor doesn't actuate until the arm turns in relation to this ring. I wouldn't safety the screws until you run the engine and get your RPM range where you want it, then safety the screws and use the screws on the arm to make small changes. Don't, however, take the arm off the gear and rotate it, because it does directly affect your prop pitch. If you can't get full RPM with the setting from the factory, you can rotate this arm a notch, but a single notch, I think, can make as much as a couple hundred RPM difference. Hope this helps. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry Casson-home Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 8:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: MT governor arm Hi All, It appears the MT governor that came as part of the Vans FWF kit has the arm in the wrong position for the way we mount the control cable. I found an old post saying to loosen the six screws on the governor and rotate the arm assembly. I know nothing about prop governors so I though I'd confirm that this is what the rest of you have done before messing with the governor. Thanks, Perry Casson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "don wentz" <dasduck(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
Date: Feb 04, 2007
Deems, I allowed for sag in my O-360 wood prop RV-6 which it did, about 3/16=94. After 500hrs I changed to a Hartzell heavy prop and it sagged some more, so I re-aligned with the washers between the engine flanges and the =91pucks=92. There are various thicknesses of those washers and it is an easy, effective way to improve the alignment of the spinner to the cowl. Allow for a small amount of sag, and if it sags a bit more than you allowed for, shim it. Don RV-6 980hrs _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Patton Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 5:47 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question 450 hours in an RV-6A. It was a myth until around 250-300 hours. It has now sagged about 3/16 to 1/4. Seems to have stopped, but who can tell. Next big annual I plan on putting washers on the bottom mounts. Bruce 2/3/2007 -- 2/3/2007 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2007
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
Another approach which may slow the aging process is to use stiffer pucks on the upper forward and the lower aft mounts such as Piper recommends for the 260 Commanche. For the Commanche, Lord recommends a mix of -34 and -35 pucks which I installed and are rare. No sag yet but I only have 70 hours on my RV-10. Perhaps Van should be asked to get another opinion. I know he has offered stiffer pucks for aerobatic applications in the past. Bill DeRouchey billderou(at)yahoo.com N939SB, flying don wentz wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} Deems, I allowed for sag in my O-360 wood prop RV-6 which it did, about 3/16. After 500hrs I changed to a Hartzell heavy prop and it sagged some more, so I re-aligned with the washers between the engine flanges and the pucks. There are various thicknesses of those washers and it is an easy, effective way to improve the alignment of the spinner to the cowl. Allow for a small amount of sag, and if it sags a bit more than you allowed for, shim it. Don RV-6 980hrs --------------------------------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Patton Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 5:47 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question 450 hours in an RV-6A. It was a myth until around 250-300 hours. It has now sagged about 3/16 to 1/4. Seems to have stopped, but who can tell. Next big annual I plan on putting washers on the bottom mounts. Bruce -- Release Date: 2/3/2007 -- 2/3/2007 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: non-magnetic anchor nuts
Date: Feb 04, 2007
Does anybody have a source for non-magnetic plate nuts? Hoping... John Ackerman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Another hardware choice?????
Date: Feb 04, 2007
I need to order more nutplates and the special K1100 are the dimpled ones. It seems that Aircraft Spruce And Specialty only carry the non dimpled ones. Van's sells them, but my orders seem to take one and a hafl weeks to get to me eventhough I am only one border away. It's starting to drive me nuts.......plates. Anyone else have a source??? Thanks, John G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Grimstad" <bldgrv10450(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Another hardware choice?????
Date: Feb 04, 2007
John You might try Aerocraft http://www.aerocraftparts.com/Categories.aspx?Category=2e993992-c33b-4a1b-9923-2b58936f4f12 Not sure if they have the dimpled type but they have some bonding nut plates that are interesting. The colored silicon bungee goes through the hole and holds the nut plate up to the surface allowing adhesive attachment to set and keeping the screw hole clear. When your adhesive is dry, just pull out the bungee. Paul Grimstad RV10-40450 fuselage Portland, OR 97219 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 8:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Another hardware choice????? > > I need to order more nutplates and the special K1100 are the dimpled ones. > It seems that Aircraft Spruce And Specialty only carry the non dimpled > ones. Van's sells them, but my orders seem to take one and a hafl weeks to > get to me eventhough I am only one border away. It's starting to drive me > nuts.......plates. > > Anyone else have a source??? > > Thanks, > > John G. 409 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2007
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: non-magnetic anchor nuts
I got mine from Aircraft supply co inc - Dallas. The Alvin Boynton is the head guy there 214-688-0549 214-637-3598 should get you to them....... -----Original Message----- >From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> >Sent: Feb 4, 2007 10:09 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: non-magnetic anchor nuts > > >Does anybody have a source for non-magnetic plate nuts? >Hoping... >John Ackerman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: MT Propeller Bird Impact Test (Video)
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <michael(at)wellenzohn.net>
Date: Feb 05, 2007
Hello group, I just ran across this video which shows the impact of a 4lbs bird (simulated by a jelly ball of similar size, weight and consistency). Natural Composite with 4 lbs bird at 775 fps (Ma = 0.713) (4.1 Mb Filesize) Pretty impressive, check it out. Michael -------- RV-10 builder (wings) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=92951#92951 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2007
Subject: Another hardware choice?????
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Try here:=0AOne lug=0Ahttp://www.bonaero.com/Nuts.htm#MS21053 =0Ah ttp://www.bonaero.com/images/ms21053.GIF=0A=0ATwo Lug=0Ahttp://www .bonaero.com/Nuts.htm#MS21049=0Ahttp://www.bonaero.com/images/ms21049.GI F=0A=0A#8 seems to be the smallest they have however.- I have no ex perience ordering from them either.=0A=0AWilliam=0Ahttp://wcurtis. nerv10.com/=0A=0A----------------------------------------=0A --> RV10-List message posted by: "John Gonzalez" =0A=0AI need to order mo re nutplates and the special K1100 are the dimpled ones. =0AIt seems tha t Aircraft Spruce And Specialty only carry the non dimpled ones. =0AVan' s sells them, but my orders seem to take one and a hafl weeks to get =0A to me eventhough I am only one border away. It's starting to drive me =0Anuts.......plates.=0A=0AAnyone else have a source???=0A=0ATh ======================== ======================== ==============0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Boone" <david555(at)cox.net>
Subject: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console
Date: Feb 05, 2007
I've made the decision to buy an overhead console and an armrest/console that would work with the throttle quadrant. I've contacted Tony at Accuracy Avionics and gotten pictures of his offering. Do you guys have any other recommendations of other products/systems that are available. Thanks David O Boone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question
Date: Feb 05, 2007
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I've heard the 4 bagger guys say 1/4" so I added to that since the 6 cylinder sits out there even further. I setup my Cowl for 3/16" and now with 210 hours on it, it has settled about 1/4", so I would say use 1/4" as your starting point, not 3/16" and you should be good. I am now going to shim behind my mounts with a steel washer to get it bang on. Thank You Ray Doerr 40250 N519RV -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 12:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Prop/Engine "Sag"Question For those who have finished your plane or previous planes. I'm interested in your real life experience regarding whether you've experienced or noticed any sag in your engine since initially mounting it. I've heard that after a hundred or two hundred hours that the engine will settle on the mounts which results in the prop dropping ( 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" , ?????). Is this a real phenomena or an urban airport myth? If its real, how much 'sag' have you experienced? I'm leery of adding a 'fudge factor' not knowing exactly what it should be, and 1/8" tolerance isn't what I'd like to achieve. Am I striving for the holy grail? It seems like there ought to be a better way to ensure things fit after flying for a while I'm in the process of installing my cowl and would like to have it and the spinner mate evenly when it's all said and done. Thanks for any information received Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console
Date: Feb 05, 2007
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Last I heard (couple weeks ago), Tony didn't have a throttle quadrant version of his console available yet. Bob #40105 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Boone Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 1:10 PM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console I've made the decision to buy an overhead console and an armrest/console that would work with the throttle quadrant. I've contacted Tony at Accuracy Avionics and gotten pictures of his offering. Do you guys have any other recommendations of other products/systems that are available. Thanks David O Boone ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Goodyear, AZ
From: "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2007
I will be spending Thursday night in Goodyear and would like to see any RV-10 projects in the area. I will be available Thursday evening and Friday morning. Have rental car, will travel! -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93012#93012 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2007
From: "John N. Strain II" <aircarepros(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console
Overhead console is included in the AC kit from Flightline AC. Also selling overhead seperate for those who aren't sure about ac yet but want the option later. John Strain Flightline AC 541-330-5466 "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Last I heard (couple weeks ago), Tony didnt have a throttle quadrant version of his console available yet. Bob #40105 --------------------------------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Boone Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 1:10 PM Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console I've made the decision to buy an overhead console and an armrest/console that would work with the throttle quadrant. I've contacted Tony at Accuracy Avionics and gotten pictures of his offering. Do you guys have any other recommendations of other products/systems that are available. Thanks David O Boone http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com --------------------------------- TV dinner still cooling? Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 05, 2007
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console
I have communicated with Tony last week regarding console with the quadrant option. He didn't mention anything about it not being available. He said about 1 week lead time which is pretty fast.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A--- -- Original Message ----=0AFrom: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesy stems.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Monday, February 5, 2007 2 :16:00 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Con sole=0A=0A=0ALast I heard (couple weeks ago), Tony didn=92t have a throttle quadrant version of his console available yet.=0A =0ABob #40105=0A =0A=0A =0A=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-se rver(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Boone=0ASent: Monday, February 05, 2 007 1:10 PM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RV10-List: Overhead Co nsole and Armrest/Center Console=0A =0AI've made the decision to buy an ove rhead console and an armrest/console that would work with the throttle quad rant. I've contacted Tony at Accuracy Avionics and gotten pictures of his o ffering. Do you guys have any other recommendations of other products/syste ms that are available. Thanks David O Boone=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A = ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Weather
Date: Feb 05, 2007
Tim, Man it looks like you guys are in a deep freeze. Hope all is well. Mark _________________________________________________________________ FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and sell with people you know ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ronald L Owen" <flywithme(at)hughes.net>
Subject: Re: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console
Date: Feb 05, 2007
I just sent in my throttle quadrant to tony and he said nothing about that kind of turn around time. But mine is bought and paid for, four months ago. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: Niko To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 4:57 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console I have communicated with Tony last week regarding console with the quadrant option. He didn't mention anything about it not being available. He said about 1 week lead time which is pretty fast. Niko 40188 ----- Original Message ---- From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 5, 2007 2:16:00 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console Last I heard (couple weeks ago), Tony didn't have a throttle quadrant version of his console available yet. Bob #40105 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Boone Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 1:10 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Overhead Console and Armrest/Center Console I've made the decision to buy an overhead console and an armrest/console that would work with the throttle quadrant. I've contacted Tony at Accuracy Avionics and gotten pictures of his offering. Do you guys have any other recommendations of other products/systems that are available. Thanks David O Boone ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Weather
Date: Feb 05, 2007
-2 tonight without the windchill here in Dayton. Snow tomorrow. Kids off school today, tomorrow and probably Wednesday. I wondered where winter was and now I know. Compared to here, the panhandle of FL sounds pretty good Jesse... John Hasbrouck #40264 too cold to do anything on the -10 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Subject: Re: Weather
Tim, Vegas at 68 degree's F has the locals moaning louder than your cows are mooing... ;-) P ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Weather
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Can't wait until we get back into the triple numbers again. And yes I did invent the internet. Bob K Missing James McClow _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 5:33 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather Tim, Vegas at 68 degree's F has the locals moaning louder than your cows are mooing... ;-) P ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: non-magnetic anchor nuts
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Thanks to Ralph Capen for putting me on to two sources for non- magnetic hardware. He has been happy with Aircraft Supply in Dallas, the predecessor of a company Called "Action Aerospace" (214-637-3598) although they have changed name and ownership and do not have a web site. Ralph also identified GAHco (http://www.gen-aircraft- hardware.com). These folks have all I need and more, and a helpful web site. Big thanks also to Albert Gardner, who is sending a demo kit of Click Bond fasteners for my education and gratification. What a group! John Ackerman 40458 fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 06, 2007
Subject: Re: Weather
Dan I don't want to be the spell check police but airplane places to park our stuff is spelled with two "a"'s as in "hangar", one puts your coat on a hanger...don't know why but it just is that way: Patrick That is definitely a sign of the times....whoda thunk it, the new builders don't know James... He was this guy we all once new, who was building a 10, did not know what spell check was, liked to post to tell everyone what he did and also take a billion photo's, had a webcam setup in the garage so we could spy on him...then he up and disappeared on us, sold his kit, dropped the back seat idea and converted to one of them there sports models of the RV type. Must have had a mid-life crisis, you know the type, gets a sports car, dyes his hair and trolls for hanger chicks? Has anyone heard from him and his progress on the 7? Because he is not posting on the RV-list either. Dan N289DT ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Weather
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
and see even those of us that use the F7 key can make mistakes! "GRIN" Towing the line in PA, opps that should be toeing the line right? Dan _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 10:34 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Weather Dan I don't want to be the spell check police but airplane places to park our stuff is spelled with two "a"'s as in "hangar", one puts your coat on a hanger...don't know why but it just is that way: Patrick That is definitely a sign of the times....whoda thunk it, the new builders don't know James... He was this guy we all once new, who was building a 10, did not know what spell check was, liked to post to tell everyone what he did and also take a billion photo's, had a webcam setup in the garage so we could spy on him...then he up and disappeared on us, sold his kit, dropped the back seat idea and converted to one of them there sports models of the RV type. Must have had a mid-life crisis, you know the type, gets a sports car, dyes his hair and trolls for hanger chicks? Has anyone heard from him and his progress on the 7? Because he is not posting on the RV-list either. Dan N289DT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Weather
One would hope the chicks are in the hangar rather than on a hanger. 8^)) I prefer a hangar wench, myself. On 2/6/07, GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com wrote: > > Dan I don't want to be the spell check police but airplane places to park > our stuff is spelled with two "a"'s as in "hangar", one puts your coat on a > hanger...don't know why but it just is that way: > > Patrick > That is definitely a sign of the times....whoda thunk it, the new builders > don't know James... > He was this guy we all once new, who was building a 10, did not know what > spell check was, liked to post to tell everyone what he did and also take a > billion photo's, had a webcam setup in the garage so we could spy on > him...then he up and disappeared on us, sold his kit, dropped the back seat > idea and converted to one of them there sports models of the RV type. Must > have had a mid-life crisis, you know the type, gets a sports car, dyes his > hair and trolls for hanger chicks? > Has anyone heard from him and his progress on the 7? Because he is not > posting on the RV-list either. > Dan > N289DT > > - The RV10-List Email Forum - > to browse > Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, > much more: > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > the Web Forums! > http://forums.matronics.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel flow transducer
Date: Feb 06, 2007
I have installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's said to. Now OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone have experience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't want to replumb it unless I need to. Gary Specketer 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel flow transducer
Gary, When you say 'the fuel servo' what are you referring to? I've installed mine in the tunnel in the appropriate Van's designated location. I vaguely recall reading something in the JPI sensor installation information about it being installed between some components, but their installation documentation (from what I can infer) assumes that it's being installed as an add on to an existing certified aircraft. where the installation usually needs to happen forward of the firewall. Who @ OP told you this? They have some new people that may be good at their particular tasks but not necessarily @ building an airplane. Off the top of my head I can't for the life of me think of why leaving it in its present position shouldn't work. The amount of fuel that passes through the transducer is the same if placed there vs. further forward. just my $.02 I'd be interested in learning what you find. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ gary wrote: > > I have installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's said to. > Now OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone have > experience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't want to > replumb it unless I need to. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel flow transducer
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
It's not uncommon for many of the engine monitor vendors to suggest the location upstream of the fuel pumps and servo. It is generally considered more accurate but installs have shown that Van's location is just as good. One of the arguments have always been the heat the transducer would have to endure in the engine compartment but that has also been shown to not make a difference. I plan on installing near the servo. Michael -10 #352 Limbo -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:51 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel flow transducer Gary, When you say 'the fuel servo' what are you referring to? I've installed mine in the tunnel in the appropriate Van's designated location. I vaguely recall reading something in the JPI sensor installation information about it being installed between some components, but their installation documentation (from what I can infer) assumes that it's being installed as an add on to an existing certified aircraft. where the installation usually needs to happen forward of the firewall. Who @ OP told you this? They have some new people that may be good at their particular tasks but not necessarily @ building an airplane. Off the top of my head I can't for the life of me think of why leaving it in its present position shouldn't work. The amount of fuel that passes through the transducer is the same if placed there vs. further forward. just my $.02 I'd be interested in learning what you find. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ gary wrote: > > I have installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's said to. > Now OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone have > experience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't want to > replumb it unless I need to. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Weather
Some of us were present in WI near GB for the real, original ice bowl...IIRC Packers vs Cowboys, circa 1965-66. On 2/6/07, RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote: The Super Bowl would have been a much more interesting game if they would have had it in Green Bay. Ice Bowl II > > 6 below and almost back to t-shirt weather. :-D > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Fuel flow transducer
Date: Feb 06, 2007
OP sent me to JPI who responded to me with "follow the manual". I asked again if It would work in the tunnel. No reply yet. I did misspeak though. The manual wants it between the engine fuel pump and the servo if there are no return lines. Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:51 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel flow transducer Gary, When you say 'the fuel servo' what are you referring to? I've installed mine in the tunnel in the appropriate Van's designated location. I vaguely recall reading something in the JPI sensor installation information about it being installed between some components, but their installation documentation (from what I can infer) assumes that it's being installed as an add on to an existing certified aircraft. where the installation usually needs to happen forward of the firewall. Who @ OP told you this? They have some new people that may be good at their particular tasks but not necessarily @ building an airplane. Off the top of my head I can't for the life of me think of why leaving it in its present position shouldn't work. The amount of fuel that passes through the transducer is the same if placed there vs. further forward. just my $.02 I'd be interested in learning what you find. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ gary wrote: > > I have installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's said to. > Now OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone have > experience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't want to > replumb it unless I need to. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel flow transducer
JPI is known for not being particularly responsive to experimental aircraft. So you may be a while in getting a response. I suppose that by putting it between the engine driven fuel pump and the servo, that you are measuring the flow a step closer to the actual detonation, and any flow restrictions/problems due to the engine driven pump might be registered with the sensor in that location. But if the engine is supposed to burn 11 gph at a certain altitude and power setting, I cant' see where measuring the flow on the other side of the engine driven fuel pump would make a difference. There's only one line that connects them, and if the amount of fuel flowing is different on one side of the pump or the other, there's got to be a leak in the fuel delivery system. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Trying to fit the James Cowl gary wrote: > > OP sent me to JPI who responded to me with "follow the manual". I asked > again if It would work in the tunnel. No reply yet. > I did misspeak though. The manual wants it between the engine fuel pump and > the servo if there are no return lines. > Gary > 40274 > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:51 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel flow transducer > > > Gary, When you say 'the fuel servo' what are you referring to? I've > installed mine in the tunnel in the appropriate Van's designated > location. I vaguely recall reading something in the JPI sensor > installation information about it being installed between some > components, but their installation documentation (from what I can infer) > assumes that it's being installed as an add on to an existing certified > aircraft. where the installation usually needs to happen forward of the > firewall. Who @ OP told you this? They have some new people that may be > good at their particular tasks but not necessarily @ building an > airplane. Off the top of my head I can't for the life of me think of why > leaving it in its present position shouldn't work. The amount of fuel > that passes through the transducer is the same if placed there vs. > further forward. > > just my $.02 I'd be interested in learning what you find. > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > gary wrote: > >> >> I have installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's said to. >> Now OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone >> > have > >> experience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't want to >> replumb it unless I need to. >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel flow transducer
Deems, the standard mechanical diaphram pump can and will develop a leak eventually. There is a drain that is supposed to be a tell tale...if you are on the ground. By having the sensor before that pump, you would measure the engine consumption plus the leak. That would argue for placing the sensor before the pumps. On 2/6/07, Deems Davis wrote: > > JPI is known for not being particularly responsive to experimental > aircraft. So you may be a while in getting a response. I suppose that by > putting it between the engine driven fuel pump and the servo, that you > are measuring the flow a step closer to the actual detonation, and any > flow restrictions/problems due to the engine driven pump might be > registered with the sensor in that location. But if the engine is > supposed to burn 11 gph at a certain altitude and power setting, I cant' > see where measuring the flow on the other side of the engine driven > fuel pump would make a difference. There's only one line that connects > them, and if the amount of fuel flowing is different on one side of the > pump or the other, there's got to be a leak in the fuel delivery system. > > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > Trying to fit the James Cowl > > gary wrote: > > > > OP sent me to JPI who responded to me with "follow the manual". I asked > > again if It would work in the tunnel. No reply yet. > > I did misspeak though. The manual wants it between the engine fuel pump and > > the servo if there are no return lines. > > Gary > > 40274 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis > > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:51 PM > > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel flow transducer > > > > > > Gary, When you say 'the fuel servo' what are you referring to? I've > > installed mine in the tunnel in the appropriate Van's designated > > location. I vaguely recall reading something in the JPI sensor > > installation information about it being installed between some > > components, but their installation documentation (from what I can infer) > > assumes that it's being installed as an add on to an existing certified > > aircraft. where the installation usually needs to happen forward of the > > firewall. Who @ OP told you this? They have some new people that may be > > good at their particular tasks but not necessarily @ building an > > airplane. Off the top of my head I can't for the life of me think of why > > leaving it in its present position shouldn't work. The amount of fuel > > that passes through the transducer is the same if placed there vs. > > further forward. > > > > just my $.02 I'd be interested in learning what you find. > > > > Deems Davis # 406 > > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > gary wrote: > > > >> > >> I have installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's said to. > >> Now OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone > >> > > have > > > >> experience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't want to > >> replumb it unless I need to. > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 06, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel flow transducer
Just for my edumacation, if the diaphragm was ruptured or leaking would that result in more, or less, fuel being 'pulled from the line and 'pushed' to the engine? My guess is that it would be less. Is there a siphon function which would draw some amount of fuel from the fuel pump even if the diaphragm was ruptured? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Kelly McMullen wrote: > > Deems, the standard mechanical diaphram pump can and will develop a > leak eventually. There is a drain that is supposed to be a tell > tale...if you are on the ground. By having the sensor before that > pump, you would measure the engine consumption plus the leak. That > would argue for placing the sensor before the pumps. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical System Critique
Date: Feb 07, 2007
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2007
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Door Gas Strut Attach Bracket
The door Gas Strut Attach Brackets do not fit very well to the Cabin Cover. They need to move considerably inboard to get a good fit which would enta il a lot of trimming of the Cabin Cover.=0A=0AHas this been typical with ot her builders?=0A=0ANiko=0A40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: Door Gas Strut Attach Bracket
Date: Feb 07, 2007
Yes, that is the way mine were. I just cut a notch in the cover big enough for the bracket and enough room to get the bolt in and out. I also built up a pad, of epoxy and fiber, so that the entire bracket made contact with the lid. Rene' Felker 40322 N423CF 801-721-6080 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Niko Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 9:14 AM Subject: RV10-List: Door Gas Strut Attach Bracket The door Gas Strut Attach Brackets do not fit very well to the Cabin Cover. They need to move considerably inboard to get a good fit which would entail a lot of trimming of the Cabin Cover. Has this been typical with other builders? Niko 40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Sean Stephens <sean(at)stephensville.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical System Critique
Date: Feb 07, 2007
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Door Gas Strut Attach Bracket
Here's some pictures of my installation: http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC03436.html http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC03670.html You can page fwd and back to see some other related pics. I really didn't cut the hinge back inside of the cabin top edge, however I did have to file a little off of the back of the atttach bracket where I had an interference with the screw/bolt threads projecting from the hinge. If I had it to do over I would move it slightly inboard as it will also give you more clearance between the strut and the inside of the cabin door when the door is closed. As you can see in the last link pic above it's very close for me. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ Niko wrote: > The door Gas Strut Attach Brackets do not fit very well to the Cabin > Cover. They need to move considerably inboard to get a good fit which > would entail a lot of trimming of the Cabin Cover. > > Has this been typical with other builders? > > Niko > 40188 > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electrical System Critique
From: "Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining(at)wellsfargo.com>
Date: Feb 07, 2007
This is a new product coming out on the market that looks like it may have a lot of appeal. http://www.verticalpower.com/ Jon (and Bill) Reining 40514 - tailcone - still Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93453#93453 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2007
Subject: Fuel flow transducer
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
This has come up a few time and after doing some research it turns out that the absolute *ideal* location from a true flow perspective is between the fuel servo and the distribution.- The second best location in this regard is between the mechanical fuel pump and the fuel servo.- And then the th ird best location from a flow perspective, is in the tunnel at the plans lo cation.- If that was the only concern then you would go with the ideal lo cation, however *ideal* only offers a few ml more accuracy and places the t ransducer in a more harsh environment.- So your accuracy may improve by -.05 of a gal per hour but your transducer will be subject to earlier fai lure due to it being in a harsher environment.- I think the flying RV-10s have show that the tunnel location works well.=0A=0AWilliam- #4023 7=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A=0A----------------------------- ve installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's said to. =0ANow OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone h ave=0Aexperience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't wan t to=0Areplumb it unless I need to.=0A=0AGary Specketer=0A40274 =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel flow transducer
Date: Feb 07, 2007
William, why are the downstream locations more "ideal" than those farther upstream? if the system is leak free, the flow is the same. The fluid is incompressible, so pressure has no effect. What's different? Turbulence? Nah... Temperature - don't think so, but maybe? if so, which location is hotter? more variable? There's an issue of measuring fuel that is recycled to the tanks, but for most of our Lycoming installations (Subies, etc excepted), recycle is zero, except during purge. Is that what the location preference is about? Someone here pointed out that an upstream transducer will measure leaks as well as fuel consumed by the engine. That raises the question of whether you're more interested in fuel remaining (fuel flow out of the tanks) or fuel consumption by the engine. Hmmm. I (and most of us, I'll bet) would really be grateful for any physical explanations adn rationales you've turned up in your researches. Thanks! John Ackerman On Feb 7, 2007, at 11:14 AM, William Curtis wrote: > This has come up a few time and after doing some research it turns > out that the absolute *ideal* location from a true flow perspective > is between the fuel servo and the distribution. The second best > location in this regard is between the mechanical fuel pump and the > fuel servo. And then the third best location from a flow > perspective, is in the tunnel at the plans location. If that was > the only concern then you would go with the ideal location, however > *ideal* only offers a few ml more accuracy and places the > transducer in a more harsh environment. So your accuracy may > improve by .05 of a gal per hour but your transducer will be > subject to earlier failure due to it being in a harsher > environment. I think the flying RV-10s have show that the tunnel > location works well. > > William #40237 > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ > > > I have installed my flow-scan transducer in the tunnel like Van's > said to. > Now OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. > Anyone have > experience with it in the tunnel? Any problems? I really don't want to > replumb it unless I need to. > > Gary Specketer > 40274 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Winter Shop Heat
I hope there's a CO detector somewhere in there... Those heaters tend to eat up all the oxygen in the room, and also produce CO if not operating perfectly.... -Jim 40384 mgeans(at)provide.net wrote: >For those in Jack Frost's territory, > >I was inspired by the builder who's insulated coffee was >freezing in 30 Min to share my setup. > >See forwarded e-mail. If the pictures don't come through, >someone let me know please. > >Matt Geans >Builder Wanna-Be > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel flow transducer
Date: Feb 07, 2007
I faced the same dilemma when installing the transducer on the -9A. The problem with the 2-place RVs is that there really is no good place aft of the firewall to install the transducer. There is no tunnel after all. :-) What I (and others) have done is to place it forward of the firewall between the gascolator and the carburetor. Obviously this would be a bit different for a fuel injected engine. On my installation I had only about 5" of straight tubing where it enters the transducer, which is less than optimal. Operationally the transducer is very accurate unless I have the boost pump on. The boost pump must introduce some pulses into the fuel line and the little turbine in the transducer apparently doesn't like it. The result is that when the boost pump is running it reports about 4gph higher than it does normally. Regards, Mike Schipper RV-9A - N63MS - Flying - www.my9a.com RV-10 - #40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com On Feb 7, 2007, at 2:37 PM, John Ackerman wrote: > William, why are the downstream locations more "ideal" than those > farther upstream? > > if the system is leak free, the flow is the same. The fluid is > incompressible, so pressure has no effect. What's different? > Turbulence? Nah... Temperature - don't think so, but maybe? if so, > which location is hotter? more variable? > > There's an issue of measuring fuel that is recycled to the tanks, > but for most of our Lycoming installations (Subies, etc excepted), > recycle is zero, except during purge. Is that what the location > preference is about? > > Someone here pointed out that an upstream transducer will measure > leaks as well as fuel consumed by the engine. That raises the > question of whether you're more interested in fuel remaining (fuel > flow out of the tanks) or fuel consumption by the engine. Hmmm. > > I (and most of us, I'll bet) would really be grateful for any > physical explanations adn rationales you've turned up in your > researches. > > Thanks! > > John Ackerman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: POH
Date: Feb 07, 2007
What have folks done about a Pilot Operating Handbook? Gary 40274 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2007
Subject: Re: Fuel flow transducer
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
John,The short answer to you first question is that the further you go "do wnstream" the less return or alternate paths where fuel can be returned or be dumped overboard. -That being said, your fourth paragraph hits the nai l on the head.- As with many things, *ideal* depends on your perspective. - If you want to know how much fuel has flowed out of the tanks, then the tunnel is the best location.- If you want to know how much fuel is actua lly being consumed by the engine, then a location AFTER the mechanical fuel pump is best.- So you must decide, what do you want your flow indicator to tell you primarily; how much is flowing out of the tanks or how much is getting to the engine?- Under normal circumstances, the two are almost id entical; however-under certain circumstances more fuel may be flowing out of the tanks (via the main line) than is flowing to the engine.- This ma y occur due to leaks,-faulty mechanical fuel pump, etc.=0AWilliam =0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A=0A--------------------------------- -------=0A From: John Ackerman johnag5b(at)cableone.net=0A=0AWilliam, why are the downstream locations more "ideal" than those farther upstream? - if the system is leak free, the flow is the same. The fluid is incompr essible, so pressure has no effect. What's different? Turbulence? Nah... Te mperature - don't think so, but maybe? if so, which location is hotter? mor e variable? There's an issue of measuring fuel that is recycled to the tan ks, but for most of our Lycoming installations (Subies, etc excepted), recy cle is zero, except during purge. Is that what the location preference is a bout? Someone here pointed out that an upstream transducer will measure l eaks as well as fuel consumed by the engine.-That raises the question of whether you're more interested in fuel remaining (fuel flow out of the tank s) or fuel consumption by the engine. Hmmm.- I (and most of us, I'll bet ) would really be grateful for any physical explanations adn rationales you 've turned up in your researches. Thanks! John Ackerman =0A On Feb 7 , 2007, at 11:14 AM, William Curtis wrote: This has come up a few time and after doing some research it turns out that the absolute *ideal* location f rom a true flow perspective is between the fuel servo and the distribution. - The second best location in this regard is between the mechanical fuel pump and the fuel servo.- And then the third best location from a flow pe rspective, is in the tunnel at the plans location.- If that was the only concern then you would go with the ideal location, however *ideal* only off ers a few ml more accuracy and places the transducer in a more harsh enviro nment.- So your accuracy may improve by-.05 of a gal per hour but your transducer will be subject to earlier failure due to it being in a harsher environment.- I think the flying RV-10s have show that the tunnel locatio n works well.=0A=0AWilliam- #40237=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A=0A----------------------------------------=0A --> RV10-List m essage posted by: "gary" =0A=0AI have installed my flow-scan transduc er in the tunnel like Van's said to.=0ANow OP says it should go between the fuel servo and the spider. Anyone have=0Aexperience with it in the t unnel? Any problems? I really don't want to=0Areplumb it unless I need t o.=0A=0AGary Specketer=0A40274=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 07, 2007
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: The RV Smile - continued
On Saturday, January 27th, RV4 pilot Jack Phillips took RV10 builder, Bill Watson, for his first ride in an RV at Lake Ridge Airport, Durham NC. The aircraft performed as designed, the pilot flew the aircraft with a high degree proficiency, and an RV smile was firmly planted on both the face and mind of the passenger. A little stick time for the pedal-less rear seat passenger only served to deepen the smile. It has been noted that an RV10 doesn't fly like an RV4 (neither do Maules or Pietenpols for that matter). Nonetheless, riveting has resumed with increased vigor at the Lake Ridge birthplace of #40605. Thank You Jack Phillips for passing on the Smile. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 07, 2007
Subject: Re: POH
In a message dated 2/7/2007 6:09:41 PM Central Standard Time, speckter(at)comcast.net writes: What have folks done about a Pilot Operating Handbook? Gary 40274 Some of us have polled our knowledge (or lack of it) to build our own. I'll be happy to share mine with any of the crowd, remembering that mine is tailored for my bird and how I've set it up. Email me at gengrumpy(at)aol.com if you want to see mine. grumpy 40404 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cal Hoffman" <cehoffman(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Heater control hardware
Date: Feb 08, 2007
I know that I've seen it before also. If I could overide the "senior moment" and remember where!! Cal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Deems Davis" <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 9:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Heater control hardware > > Carl, I puzzled with this a couple of weeks ago. I was looking for the > info for installing the cable clamps. I finally found it a couple of > day's after I went ahead and eyeballed it using web pics. It wasn't in > the manual proper, but came on a separate sheet packaged with something > else........ problem is, now I can't now remember where/what......??????? > > Deems Davis # 406 > Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) > http://deemsrv10.com/ > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Heater control hardware
Date: Feb 07, 2007
FF1-3 Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- Cal Hoffman wrote: > Does anyone remember where the hardware installation instructions for > the two heater control ducts are located in the plans? > Cal Hoffman 40119 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Cal Hoffman" <cehoffman(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Heater control hardware
Date: Feb 08, 2007
Thanks, Cal ----- Original Message ----- From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 1:15 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Heater control hardware > > FF1-3 > Albert Gardner > Yuma, AZ > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 600HP RV-10
Date: Feb 08, 2007
Chris, I think that nitrous is already included. The seller is obviously breathing it!!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2007
From: "B. Rig" <brucelas(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: what do you call yourself to ATC?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 08, 2007
Hello all, My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting for several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as a very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following is pretty firmed up: 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). Garmin GTX330 with TIS Garmin SL30 Nav/Com 8000 audio panel Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. New engine, & redundancy in most areas. Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & avionics first). I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family of 4. I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an LLC/corp is this right? How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am misssing. Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously approaching this project. Cheers, -Jim Clark RV-Story DVD in hand and... On the fence... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: L Aune <lcaune(at)cablelan.net>
Subject: Firewall penetration
Date: Feb 08, 2007
I have heard from the Grand Rapids people that some builders have used cannon plugs for their EIS wiring (EGT and CHT) and they have not heard about any great problems. I would like to do the same and am wondering about the cannon plug itself. I know that a temp. difference at any joint can be problematic and was going to go the alumel chromel pin and socket route. Did anybody solder these connections. Feedback would be appreciated. Len in Kelowna Canada 40381. Knee deep in wire. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: what do you call yourself to ATC?
Date: Feb 08, 2007
Damn Lucky Bob K 0<)) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of B. Rig Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:37 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: what do you call yourself to ATC? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List
It's a matter of a 2 seater or 4 seater. Have a family of 4? want to fly 2 of them at once than the 7 won't work, want more camping space; the RV-10 back seat folds down. Going to fly solo everywhere the 7 is more than enough, etc. I would ask yourself what your mission is first than determine the avionics. There is a whole lot of resources on all of this in the EAA Homebuilders link.( http://www.eaa.org/education/homebuilt_aircraft.html ) If your a current EAA member- check out all the stages covered and the FAQ under each. You're going to burn more fuel in the RV-10 simply because it's a slightly larger plane that uses a larger engine, but again..mission. Makes no difference if the RV-7 has better MPG and everything else if you want to carry more than 1 passenger. As far as the repairman's cert- 1 per person per plane: from the EAA site: When a Chapter (or school, club, or partnership) builds an aircraft, only one individual will be considered for a Repairman Certificate for each aircraft built. Typically, the designated project leader will be the one who applies for the Repairman Certificate. The project leader should also be the on who signs for the airworthiness of the aircraft on FAA Form 8130-6 block III. Best of success with this decision. Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Introduction To List > > > Hello all, > > My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your > wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am > finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. > > I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to > undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting for > several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as a > very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. > > First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing > this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: > > First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following > is pretty firmed up: > 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual > AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). > Garmin GTX330 with TIS > Garmin SL30 Nav/Com > 8000 audio panel > Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. > New engine, & redundancy in most areas. > Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. > > I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than > 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR > capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having > to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by > choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick > everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & > avionics first). > > I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing > 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the > RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank > panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to > take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in > this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family > of 4. > > I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an > LLC/corp is this right? > > How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there > any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am > misssing. > > Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded > introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously > approaching this project. > > Cheers, > -Jim Clark > RV-Story DVD in hand and... > On the fence... > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 08, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Jim, add the RV-9 to your evaluation. The wing and tail give similar flight performance as the RV-10 to a cruiser/IFR platform. If you wanted a nimble hot-rod then the RV-7A or RV-7 would be better "Mission Suitable". Read the archives on how the path to having EFIS and multi-screen EFIS was made more difficult by the placement of support ribs, in their design. A little research is going to help you a lot in your decision. The first step is selecting the journey. You are now well on your way. You will find a lot of support in anything you chose. JMHO. Your absolute needs to be balanced with the reality of builders that are now flying the RV-10 which meets your mission. Both the kit and the engine continue to reflect the Time Value of Money. A quick build well help you reach your absolute much sooner. Out of Money. Only one of you will get a Repairman Certificate. Figure that out early. If your partner must have 4 POB then you better do a lean budget and get a firm grip. Fuel burn at 12.5gph at 65% is a good benchmark for fuel consumption. An IO-360 or 400 is not going to push an RV-10. Come on over the grass is always Green and in need of cutting. Help make us 1,000 kits strong. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 5:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Introduction To List Hello all, My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting for several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as a very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following is pretty firmed up: 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). Garmin GTX330 with TIS Garmin SL30 Nav/Com 8000 audio panel Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. New engine, & redundancy in most areas. Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & avionics first). I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family of 4. I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an LLC/corp is this right? How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am misssing. Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously approaching this project. Cheers, -Jim Clark RV-Story DVD in hand and... On the fence... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 08, 2007
Jim, I've always been a fan of Van's aircraft but, at 6' 3", I found the two place RV's tight in the headroom department. The -10 was a better "fit" for me. It impresses me as a great, comfortable cross country plane with room to stretch. I also want to take friends along on occasion and the -10 is obviously better for that mission than the -7. I'm instrument rated but will probably equip my plane simply at first with the option to upgrade. I'm designing the panel with that in mind. A Lycoming IO-360 will burn 10 GPH in cruise. That's what you'd probably use in the -7. The IO-540 in the -10 will burn 12 to 15 GPH in cruise ( check Tim's site for better numbers) multiply the difference by $4.50/gal avgas to get a rough idea if increased fuel costs. Speeds are close enough for either so no advantage one way or the other. When I owned factory built planes I'd figure the total hourly operating cost to be 3X the hourly fuel cost and it seemed to work well for 100 hours/year minimum. Nowadays 4X the hourly fuel cost may be more appropriate. In reality I think you'll fly the -10 for more than the -7 but the mission capablities are greater with the -10. I think the additional cost are worth the greater flexability. Don't jump too quickly (pardon the pun) into the quickbuild options. I'm going standard kits all the way and have progressed very quickly using only the spare time I have after work and weekends. Most of that working on my own. I decided to save the bucks I'd have spent on the quickbuild and put it into other areas of the plane. I'm sure you'll get a lot of advice from the group, just my $.02 worth. John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 08, 2007
I will answer below a little. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Introduction To List Hello all, My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting for several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as a very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. [Jesse Saint] This should not be too hard, considering your comments below on possibly needing more than 2 seats sometimes. I agree with JC that RV-9 should be in consideration possibly before the -7, but I still recommend the -10. First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following is pretty firmed up: 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). Garmin GTX330 with TIS Garmin SL30 Nav/Com 8000 audio panel Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. New engine, & redundancy in most areas. Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. [Jesse Saint] Sounds like a good panel, but you should be able to get going a fair bit cheaper (~$10K) by slimming this down to start with if your budget doesn't allow. I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & avionics first). [Jesse Saint] Where is your neighbor/partner in this area? Depending on what you do for an engine, paint and interior, you should be able to do this if you are careful. I would say that in many areas, including resale, a 25K difference in cost would scream "RV-10" as a choice. It is a very comfortable and practical x-country platform, much easier (from all I have heard) to control in turbulence and very comfortable for just about all sizes of people. The -7 and -9 are great planes, but your mission seems to be a much better fit for the -10, if you can afford it. Even leaving it unpainted and with a fairly bare interior would make sense if you can't spring for it to start with. I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family of 4. [Jesse Saint] Saving initial costs in the panel is the best way to go IMHO, because it is the easiest to add to down the road, especially a little at a time if necessary. The QB will probably save about 500 hours. This is a good place, IMHO, to save 12K and go for the avionics and paint to start with, but it will take longer to get in the air, of course. I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an LLC/corp is this right? [Jesse Saint] Only ONE person can get a repairman certificate for the plane, period. If one of you is an A&P, then he wouldn't need it. How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am misssing. [Jesse Saint] In my experience, maybe contrary to popular belief, the operating costs shouldn't be much different, and actually will be much cheaper in the -10 per seat if you fill them (uh, if you fill the seats than the -7 is out anyway, right?) Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously approaching this project. Cheers, -Jim Clark RV-Story DVD in hand and... On the fence... -- 3:33 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 08, 2007
Family of 4 is your neighbor? Either commit now to $150K split 2 ways or find another partner who wants an RV-7. If you go with the -7 I have a feeling the neighbor will want the -10 halfway through the project and leave you holding the 100% bag. Even taking 1 friend on your stated trips, the -10 will be a nice addition for the large-sized gear you'll have to take, but that's a $30k question you'll have to answer. How much camping/biking gear can you rent locally for $30k over the next 10 years, but that you're not familiar with and changes each time you go? Save money and go with the -10: Use a 2 screen GRT setup with a DA-10 Dynon backup for unrelated redundancy, or at least go with an overhauled motor. You'll save at least $10-20K right there on the motor. Rob Wright -10 QB #392 Trying to stay under $150K with G-900X in the plans (overhauled motor with new cyl's, Hartzell Prop, no other major mods).... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 7:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Introduction To List Hello all, My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting for several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as a very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following is pretty firmed up: 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). Garmin GTX330 with TIS Garmin SL30 Nav/Com 8000 audio panel Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. New engine, & redundancy in most areas. Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & avionics first). I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family of 4. I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an LLC/corp is this right? How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am misssing. Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously approaching this project. Cheers, -Jim Clark RV-Story DVD in hand and... On the fence... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List
I'm with others on cut back on your avionics. I don't believe you mentioned an autopilot. Absolutely get at least a wing leveler or better. Dump the 330 transponder. TIS will slowly go away and there are better, cheaper ways to get traffic. That alone will get you started on an autopilot. Look to other sources than Van's for a custom built engine for less money. Your missions really speak 4 place. You aren't carrying enough baggage to go coast to coast with a pax in a two place with much comfort. Especially not with any form of paper charts. Consider 2 screen rather than three, and some 2 1/4 backup steam gauges..you will lose electrics some time. Consider 496 in a panel mount for nav backup. On 2/8/07, Rob Wright wrote: > > Family of 4 is your neighbor? Either commit now to $150K split 2 ways or > find another partner who wants an RV-7. If you go with the -7 I have a > feeling the neighbor will want the -10 halfway through the project and leave > you holding the 100% bag. > > Even taking 1 friend on your stated trips, the -10 will be a nice addition > for the large-sized gear you'll have to take, but that's a $30k question > you'll have to answer. How much camping/biking gear can you rent locally for > $30k over the next 10 years, but that you're not familiar with and changes > each time you go? > First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the > following is pretty firmed up: > 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably > dual AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). > Garmin GTX330 with TIS > Garmin SL30 Nav/Com > 8000 audio panel > Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. > New engine, & redundancy in most areas. > Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electrical System Critique
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Feb 08, 2007
John, Unless you believe that you'll have a disabling catastophic failure caused by the main battery, you could simplify your system by wiring the two batteries in parallel and eliminate a contactor and switch. It may be hard to properly diagnose and manage such a failure while in flight. And if that type of failure occurred, you'd lose your attitude sources while you diagnosed the problem and switched to the backup batt. It sounds likes you mainly want some extra juice for starting and alternator failure, and if that's the case, wiring the batteries in parallel would take care of that and always be available. -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93860#93860 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List
Jim. congratulations on having made the decision to build your own airplane. Sticking with the RV series of planes will provide you a support system and the benefits of engineering derived from a fleet of flying planes that totals nearly 5000 !. (That's more than either Columbia or Cirus) Doing so you will join a group of motivated,opinionated, and enthusiastic people that do something that others think impossible. Now at the risk of p*****g you off. I think you're going about the decision from the wrong end. It's easy to get enamored with the 'electro whizzies/ (Believe me I know I've got a panel full of them!!!!). BUT----- unless you're going to quit work and build 10 hours a day every day, this project is going to take you at least a couple of years. (I've quit work, work 4-6 hours on the plane every day and ITS STILL going to take me over 2 years to finish!!!!) In that time frame the list of viable/and affordable electro wizzies will very likely change. The neat thing about building these planes is that one of the easiest things to change after you've built the plane is the panel itself. WITHOUT A DOUBT the MOST DIFFICULT thing to change would be to add 2 more seats to a 2 seat airplane!!!!!. So.... Think seriously about whether 2 or 4 seats will suit the type of flying you and your partner will be doing. that's the 1st step to defining your mission. If it's 4 Stop cause you won't find a better 4 place plane than the -10. If its 2, then decide whether Acro is important to you or not, if not look @ a -9, if it is then decide if you want tandem or sidebyside seating. (-7 or -8). then you can move on to the engine/avionics and assorted decisions. I know this isn't the answer you were looking for,...... but you were asking for help! And that's the spirit that this is intended in. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ J > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 600HP RV-10
From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 09, 2007
I heard it was better to wait until after the initial test flights to do the final riveting in case you need to make some adjustments. :? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93886#93886 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: paint shop re. Southeast
Date: Feb 09, 2007
Any suggestions for a good paint shop in the Southeast? I live 1 hour south of Atlanta. Thanks! Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: paint shop re. Southeast
Date: Feb 09, 2007
I am working with a body shop in Covington. I brought him a few parts for him to show me his work and for me to see how/if I can work with him. I will let you know how it goes. Where are you located, I would like to meet you and see your project? Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gorejr(at)bellsouth.net Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: paint shop re. Southeast Any suggestions for a good paint shop in the Southeast? I live 1 hour south of Atlanta. Thanks! Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 09, 2007
From: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda(at)bpaengines.com>
Rob wrote: "or at least go with an overhauled motor. You'll save at least $10-20K right there on the motor." I think you're more likely to save around 5-7K with an engine overhauled to Factory New Limits by a quality shop in stock configuration. I don't see this changing in the near future because the core market is dwindling and a clone manufacturer does not appear on the immediate horizon. You can get one cheaper, but we have recently seen a rash of engines on the market that have been recently overhauled using non-serviceable parts, chromed cylinders, etc. I.E., parts that have been rejected but make their way to the market through less than reputable sources or say a serviceable crank that is .010 rods and mains, which means that at the next overhaul (or possibly a prop strike) it's almost guaranteed that the crankshaft will need to be replaced. If that happens, plan on $5,000 (good used crank) - $15,000 (new) tacked on to your engine repair costs. In fact the Feds recently prosecuted a group of people in Oklahoma City for fraud who were selling IO-540 engines as overhauled, when they were completely unairworthy. They got something like 25 years and the purchasers got left with nothing. If you do go with an overhauled engine, make sure you know exactly what you're getting and check verifiable references. Rhonda Barrett-Bewley Barrett Precision Engines, Inc. Tulsa, OK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: jdalton77(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: 600HP RV-10
Date: Feb 09, 2007
Hey, don't laugh. I read about a guy in a glass plane that did just that. He didn't attach his wing attach bolts with nuts but just glassed over them. It made for a very troubling first test flight. Jeff -------------- Original message -------------- From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com> > > I heard it was better to wait until after the initial test flights to do the > final riveting in case you need to make some adjustments. :? > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=93886#93886 > > > > > > > > > >
Hey, don't laugh.  I read about a guy in a glass plane that did just that.  He didn't attach his wing attach bolts with nuts but just glassed over them.  It made for a very troubling first test flight.
 
Jeff
 
oshare

      
      
      
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Subject: The RV Smile - continued
Date: Feb 09, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
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From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 09, 2007
Jim Welcome! I faced the same choice and went with the -10, but I guess your mission is should be the real driver. Don't forget, the -10 will be more $$$, but ALSO will take quite a bit more time and effort to get in the air. I've never heard the LLC/Corp requirement before, but I do have an S-Corp that owns my Cherokee and my -10. Your panel sounds fantastic. Good luck! Where are you located by the way. I'm in Michigan. Jeff Dalton RV-10 Wings ----- Original Message ----- From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:59 PM Subject: RV10-List: Introduction To List > > > Hello all, > > My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your > wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am > finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. > > I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to > undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting for > several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as a > very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. > > First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing > this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: > > First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following > is pretty firmed up: > 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual > AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). > Garmin GTX330 with TIS > Garmin SL30 Nav/Com > 8000 audio panel > Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. > New engine, & redundancy in most areas. > Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. > > I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than > 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR > capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having > to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by > choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick > everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & > avionics first). > > I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing > 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the > RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank > panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to > take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in > this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family > of 4. > > I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an > LLC/corp is this right? > > How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there > any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am > misssing. > > Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded > introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously > approaching this project. > > Cheers, > -Jim Clark > RV-Story DVD in hand and... > On the fence... > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "tadsargent" <tadsargent(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 09, 2007
Jim I have a 7A and I am building a 10. These aircraft offer vastly different rolls. The 2 seater is for acrobatics and day/night VFR. Where the 10 can be IFR and straight and level flown. As for the $25k difference, well, good luck. You may get away with 60-80 on a 7 but the 10 will exeed 130k for your requirement. Also the 10 has much more fiberglass than any other RV. How are your skills there? It can be learned but get help from other builders, they are more than willing to if asked. This is the best fraternity I have ever had the pleasure of being in. As far as the FAA is concerned I believe only one person can be listed on the repairman Cert. Good luck in either choice. They are both great machines. Tad S. ----- Original Message ----- From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:49 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Introduction To List > > Jim > > Welcome! > > I faced the same choice and went with the -10, but I guess your mission is > should be the real driver. > > Don't forget, the -10 will be more $$$, but ALSO will take quite a bit > more time and effort to get in the air. > > I've never heard the LLC/Corp requirement before, but I do have an S-Corp > that owns my Cherokee and my -10. > > Your panel sounds fantastic. Good luck! > > Where are you located by the way. I'm in Michigan. > > Jeff Dalton > RV-10 Wings > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:59 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Introduction To List > > >> >> >> Hello all, >> >> My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your >> wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am >> finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. >> >> I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to >> undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting >> for several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as >> a very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. >> >> First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing >> this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: >> >> First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following >> is pretty firmed up: >> 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual >> AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). >> Garmin GTX330 with TIS >> Garmin SL30 Nav/Com >> 8000 audio panel >> Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. >> New engine, & redundancy in most areas. >> Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. >> >> I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than >> 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR >> capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having >> to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by >> choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick >> everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & >> avionics first). >> >> I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing >> 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the >> RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank >> panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to >> take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in >> this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family >> of 4. >> >> I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an >> LLC/corp is this right? >> >> How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there >> any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am >> misssing. >> >> Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded >> introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously >> approaching this project. >> >> Cheers, >> -Jim Clark >> RV-Story DVD in hand and... >> On the fence... >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List
Date: Feb 10, 2007
Uhhh... not sure that it takes considerably more time to build a -10. My total time was 2550hrs, slow build, and I considered it to be on the high end compared to some of the numbers that I've heard. This seems reasonably close to the 2-seat models. Don't forget to add unexpected/hidden costs into your estimate. Shipping charges, epoxy, filler, primer, window/winshield glue, tank sealer, headliner, carpet, baggage door lock, are some items off the top of my head but it goes on and on.... mine was around $9K. I think Tim Olson's was $11K at one point during his project. Anh N591VU-22hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: "jdalton77" <jdalton77(at)comcast.net> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:49 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Introduction To List > > > Jim > > Welcome! > > I faced the same choice and went with the -10, but I guess your mission is > should be the real driver. > > Don't forget, the -10 will be more $$$, but ALSO will take quite a bit > more time and effort to get in the air. > > I've never heard the LLC/Corp requirement before, but I do have an S-Corp > that owns my Cherokee and my -10. > > Your panel sounds fantastic. Good luck! > > Where are you located by the way. I'm in Michigan. > > Jeff Dalton > RV-10 Wings > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net> > To: > Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 8:59 PM > Subject: RV10-List: Introduction To List > > >> >> >> Hello all, >> >> My name is Jim Clark and I would like to introduce myself to your >> wonderful online community. I have been lurking for ~10 weeks now and am >> finally brave enough to say hello. I'm addicted. >> >> I, in partnership with a close colleague at work, have decided to >> undertake this monumental project. I have been planning and budgeting >> for several months and am still waffling on what may seem to you guys as >> a very important fundamental decision: which kit RV-7 or RV-10. >> >> First a brief background on my goals/budget for this project. Knowing >> this info may elicit some targeted advice from you folks: >> >> First: although I haven't finalized an airframe decision, the following >> is pretty firmed up: >> 3 screen GRT EFIS / EM / MFD with internal WAAS & 5 Hz & probably dual >> AHRS. (Want the chelton 2/3 screen but can't afford it). >> Garmin GTX330 with TIS >> Garmin SL30 Nav/Com >> 8000 audio panel >> Panel mount GPS & other comm undecided. >> New engine, & redundancy in most areas. >> Cross country from east coast to midwest and occasional CA trips. >> >> I am finishing up my IFR rating and absolutely cannot spend more than >> 150k over the next 2 years. With a strong desire for moderate IFR >> capability and redundancy and nice avionics, I am finding myself having >> to cut costs somewhere. My question is this: Is it crazy to save 25k by >> choosing the RV-7 over the RV-10? I know it seems strange to pick >> everything but the airframe first, but those are my priorities (IFR & >> avionics first). >> >> I want quickbuild and with ~32k worth of avionics, the RV-10 is pushing >> 140k with a new 260 HP. I'd like to hear your thoughts, should I get the >> RV-10 and initially save costs in the avionics area by leaving blank >> panel area on the right side? I am single, but have a strong desire to >> take more than 1 friend along on camping / biking trips. My partner in >> this project is a coworker and luckily also a neighbor. He has a family >> of 4. >> >> I understand to both get Repairman certs we will need to purchase as an >> LLC/corp is this right? >> >> How much more gas / hr do you think the RV-10 is vs the RV-7. Are there >> any other extra OPERATING expenses for the RV-10 over the RV-7 that I am >> misssing. >> >> Thanks in advance for any responses. I apologize for the longwinded >> introduction. I can hardly contain my excitement, but I am cautiously >> approaching this project. >> >> Cheers, >> -Jim Clark >> RV-Story DVD in hand and... >> On the fence... >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: paint shop re. Southeast
Date: Feb 10, 2007
Go to this web address, it might be of help in your paint shop search. http://www.vansairforce.net/paint.htm I'm personally aware of Glo Custom which is at Northwest Regional airport 52F just north of Fort Worth. They do great work and currently charge around $8,000, it may have changed some but I don't think so. The problem is Grady is so good he's booked out over a year I think, so a person needs to get in the queue early on. Wayne Edgerton #40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 10, 2007
someone bid 100,000 on the RV-10 (item # 180081108309) on e-bay. Check out the winner's feedback and see if you can imagine a nightmare deal in the making. It just keeps getting curiouser and curiouser. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: Scott Lewis <rv10(at)internode.on.net>
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!
Hey all, A bit of amateur investigation work here. I make absolutely no claims about its accuracy. Buyers nickname : docrw Google "docrw" finds (among other things): http://www.homebuilt.org/directory/quickie.html Pointing to a David Hiatt (email docrw(at)yahoo.com) as an owner of Super Quickie 2 N3223X which has since been deregistered, but if you do the N-number lookup, his address here corresponds with the location on an Ebay item he has for sale (#250082609702). <http://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/NNumSQL.asp?verified=1&NNumbertxt=3223x> Google "David Hiatt aircraft" finds him as owner (?builder) of Super Quickie 2 N34DQ: <http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/planeDetail.cfm?PlaneID=495> <http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID=260> N-number lookup on N34DQ indicated it has recently been sold. <http://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/NNumSQL.asp?verified=1&NNumbertxt=34DQ> This is a quick summary of a lot of searches. I think this is probably the guy, but as I said, no guarantees. Ain't the internet useful?! Have fun, Scott Lewis RV-6A VH-AFG RV-10 40172 eagerlee wrote: > someone bid 100,000 on the RV-10 (item # 180081108309) on e-bay. Check > out the winner's feedback and see if you can imagine a nightmare deal in > the making. It just keeps getting curiouser and curiouser. > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List - Thanks & Spreadsheet
Date: Feb 11, 2007
Hello again all, Thanks for the responses. I have tried to combine new questions and responses to others questions here to save list traffic... Research is the best part of getting ready for this...I'll bet I already have 300-400 hours and only a DVD from Vans purchased so far... Jesse-Thanks, I appreciate the advice to save on the panel at first. I'll work on trimming that to a minimal IFR platform with glass that can be grown without buying anything in panel that later gets out-ed by something else. Kelly-Thanks, the 32k already included the TruTrak digiflight-II VSGV and a Garmin 496 in the airgizmo mount. Russ-Actually, I was looking at 3 screen Horizon 1 with 2x AHRS (I'm a timid IFR pilot who likes backup). Although this is what I have spending the most time looking at recently...no matter how much I read the cross connects and interconnects in the GRT documentation, I can't get a clear picture of how it would work with: (Horizon1 GRTSport Horizon1) as you have it. Doesn't that limit the HSI from being on the 2nd screen where you want it? I'll probably have lots more questions for you to help me in this area in the coming weeks. Please tell me what is overkill and what makes sense: 3 Horizon (each with a 5H WAAS GPS) & 2 separate AHRS? I see now that you can buy a second AHRS one in the same box for only 1500. Is this any less redundant? Your panel has been one of my "mentors" :). Why did you choose the sport & the middle location instead of position #3 for the sport? Thanks. If I get 2 of the Horizon1's each with internal WAAS 5Hz GPS, I assume I have to run 2 antennas. 3 internal gps's would probably be nuts right? Jeff- I'm located in northern VA. Crazy ebay ad: Noticed the RV7 N-Number of ad posters neighbor/friend is also visible in last picture in ad: N577AZ has address near individual you listed so I think your little investigative work is correct. Attached is a spreadsheet I have spent weeks compiling (will probably spend weeks more refining). I have one set of quantities shown but would be interested in hearing others suggestions to add or subtract specific items. This as it stands indicates price > 140k and that worries me because I'm sure there is at least 10k of hidden costs as indicated by Anh and Tim. I hope this spreadsheet might be useful to someone. If others have spreadsheets / lists such as this it would help me greatly to see them. Where can I save money in this list... :) Thanks, Jim Clark ---Wishing 3 cheltons cost the same as 3 dynons... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List - Thanks & Spreadsheet
Jim Some things to consider adding to your list. 1. Shipping, Not just for QB, but for Empenage, Finishing, FFW, Engine, Avionics, etc. and the 20-50 additional orders that you will place to Van's, Aircraft Spruce, etc. (it adds up!). Easily another $1-2k 2. Heated Pitot (IFR?) $400 3. Wiring. Harnesses; Are you going to do it yourself? Even so you will have hundreds to thousands of dollars in wire, pins,connectors, terminals, circuit breakers, switches, dimmers etc. Do you have the tools to do the wiring crimpers, strippers, pin insertion/removal, solder ? If not add at least a couple hundred more for these. 4. Replacement parts and shipping, you may be the only builder to do it all right the 1st time, but if not you may have to purchase replacement parts, packaging, shipping... (min several hundred $'s 5. Will you prime your aircraft? if so add cost of primer (not cheap) and application tools. Will you paint the interior of your plane? 6. Interior? The front seats that Van's sends do not include even the foam for cushions. Add $1k -$10k 7. Composite/fiberglass supplies epoxy, hardener, cloth, fillers, thickeners, primers, and tools. (Fiberglass dulls/ruins metal working tools very fast) There's more fiberglass on this kit than you would suspect at 1st 8. Do you have an existing shop that is well equipped with tools? (e.g 2 different torque wrenches, compressor, spray gun/s, air hoses, ...), The RV kits are just the additional tools that you will need. You should think seriously about a pneumatic squeezer, or think about extending the timeframe to build. There must easily be 20,000 rivets in the plane. 9. Not sure what you include in Firewall Forward accessories, but Van's kit price exceeds your cost for this and the prop governor. 10. CHT & EGT probes and sensors and wiring harness. 12. A professional paint job After you are flying will likely cost you at least $7-8K. and those that do it for RV's are booked a year out. (You may be able to do it for less if you find someone locally and paint the parts while you're building. but I talked with another builder a couple of nights ago who went this route and it cost him $6-8k) 11. Have you considered the annual operating costs? Insurance alone will likely run you $3-4k When I was at a similar stage in my decision/planning process I thought I could build and fly the plane for $129k. (that was 2 price increase cycles ago) I've blown through that figure considerably, part of the reason was I didn't anticipate some of the above, and the rest of the reasons were decisions I made along the way that consciously added cost. I think that virtually all of the people on this list will tell you that their costs/ final estimates exceeded their original estimates by a significantly greater margin than they originally anticipated. (I finally got to the point where I quit updating my spreadsheet, because I wanted to stay in a state of denial!). Just make sure that your planning/decision process leaves some realistic contingencies available if you miss your original budget. There's too much love and passion that goes into building these things to see it lost/halted part way through the process. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing FWF - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ James S. Clark IV wrote: > Hello again all, > > Thanks for the responses. I have tried to combine new questions and > responses to others questions here to save list traffic... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: Introduction To List - Thanks & Spreadsheet
Date: Feb 11, 2007
James, I didn't see any mention of antennas. Here are some examples for planning... COM $149 x 2 CI-122 NAV $299 x 1 (VOR) CI-157C XPDR $129 x 1 KA-61 -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 9:04 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Introduction To List - Thanks & Spreadsheet Hello again all, Thanks for the responses. I have tried to combine new questions and responses to others questions here to save list traffic... Research is the best part of getting ready for this...I'll bet I already have 300-400 hours and only a DVD from Vans purchased so far... Jesse-Thanks, I appreciate the advice to save on the panel at first. I'll work on trimming that to a minimal IFR platform with glass that can be grown without buying anything in panel that later gets out-ed by something else. Kelly-Thanks, the 32k already included the TruTrak digiflight-II VSGV and a Garmin 496 in the airgizmo mount. Russ-Actually, I was looking at 3 screen Horizon 1 with 2x AHRS (I'm a timid IFR pilot who likes backup). Although this is what I have spending the most time looking at recently...no matter how much I read the cross connects and interconnects in the GRT documentation, I can't get a clear picture of how it would work with: (Horizon1 GRTSport Horizon1) as you have it. Doesn't that limit the HSI from being on the 2nd screen where you want it? I'll probably have lots more questions for you to help me in this area in the coming weeks. Please tell me what is overkill and what makes sense: 3 Horizon (each with a 5H WAAS GPS) & 2 separate AHRS? I see now that you can buy a second AHRS one in the same box for only 1500. Is this any less redundant? Your panel has been one of my "mentors" :). Why did you choose the sport & the middle location instead of position #3 for the sport? Thanks. If I get 2 of the Horizon1's each with internal WAAS 5Hz GPS, I assume I have to run 2 antennas. 3 internal gps's would probably be nuts right? Jeff- I'm located in northern VA. Crazy ebay ad: Noticed the RV7 N-Number of ad posters neighbor/friend is also visible in last picture in ad: N577AZ has address near individual you listed so I think your little investigative work is correct. Attached is a spreadsheet I have spent weeks compiling (will probably spend weeks more refining). I have one set of quantities shown but would be interested in hearing others suggestions to add or subtract specific items. This as it stands indicates price > 140k and that worries me because I'm sure there is at least 10k of hidden costs as indicated by Anh and Tim. I hope this spreadsheet might be useful to someone. If others have spreadsheets / lists such as this it would help me greatly to see them. Where can I save money in this list... :) Thanks, Jim Clark ---Wishing 3 cheltons cost the same as 3 dynons... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Introduction To List - Thanks & Spreadsheet
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Deems - you did a comprehensive and accurate assessment on the pursuit towards reality cost of an RV-10. I might add that the modifications that you made would be found by many as "Wow, I should have done that as well". I think your review is balanced and accurate. Tim might chime in on his final flying cost as well. Even Randy would likely say finishing a flyable RV-10 for Jim's budget number is a long shot. Let me acknowledge that several have done it on the cheap, but for the lack of a nail, corners should not be cut. Choosing IFR makes the budget an entirely different beast than the Day VFR Cruiser this was supposed to be. Jesse could list exactly what things could be considered to leave it "Upgradeable to IFR" well down the road. It won't be a Cirrus but it will fit like a glove and be custom to your needs, while still being much more fiscally realistic to operate. Take the original VANS estimate of cost (2005 dollars), factor in the increases in kit prices since then, add the % increase in engine cost in just the last 36 months. Now project it out another 36 months. You should be within 7% accurate. John Cox "Eyes Wide Open" through the entire process - 25% more than budget is the norm. #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 5:07 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Introduction To List - Thanks & Spreadsheet Jim Some things to consider adding to your list. 1. Shipping, Not just for QB, but for Empenage, Finishing, FFW, Engine, Avionics, etc. and the 20-50 additional orders that you will place to Van's, Aircraft Spruce, etc. (it adds up!). Easily another $1-2k 2. Heated Pitot (IFR?) $400 3. Wiring. Harnesses; Are you going to do it yourself? Even so you will have hundreds to thousands of dollars in wire, pins,connectors, terminals, circuit breakers, switches, dimmers etc. Do you have the tools to do the wiring crimpers, strippers, pin insertion/removal, solder ? If not add at least a couple hundred more for these. 4. Replacement parts and shipping, you may be the only builder to do it all right the 1st time, but if not you may have to purchase replacement parts, packaging, shipping... (min several hundred $'s 5. Will you prime your aircraft? if so add cost of primer (not cheap) and application tools. Will you paint the interior of your plane? 6. Interior? The front seats that Van's sends do not include even the foam for cushions. Add $1k -$10k 7. Composite/fiberglass supplies epoxy, hardener, cloth, fillers, thickeners, primers, and tools. (Fiberglass dulls/ruins metal working tools very fast) There's more fiberglass on this kit than you would suspect at 1st 8. Do you have an existing shop that is well equipped with tools? (e.g 2 different torque wrenches, compressor, spray gun/s, air hoses, ...), The RV kits are just the additional tools that you will need. You should think seriously about a pneumatic squeezer, or think about extending the timeframe to build. There must easily be 20,000 rivets in the plane. 9. Not sure what you include in Firewall Forward accessories, but Van's kit price exceeds your cost for this and the prop governor. 10. CHT & EGT probes and sensors and wiring harness. 12. A professional paint job After you are flying will likely cost you at least $7-8K. and those that do it for RV's are booked a year out. (You may be able to do it for less if you find someone locally and paint the parts while you're building. but I talked with another builder a couple of nights ago who went this route and it cost him $6-8k) 11. Have you considered the annual operating costs? Insurance alone will likely run you $3-4k When I was at a similar stage in my decision/planning process I thought I could build and fly the plane for $129k. (that was 2 price increase cycles ago) I've blown through that figure considerably, part of the reason was I didn't anticipate some of the above, and the rest of the reasons were decisions I made along the way that consciously added cost. I think that virtually all of the people on this list will tell you that their costs/ final estimates exceeded their original estimates by a significantly greater margin than they originally anticipated. (I finally got to the point where I quit updating my spreadsheet, because I wanted to stay in a state of denial!). Just make sure that your planning/decision process leaves some realistic contingencies available if you miss your original budget. There's too much love and passion that goes into building these things to see it lost/halted part way through the process. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing FWF - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ James S. Clark IV wrote: > Hello again all, > > Thanks for the responses. I have tried to combine new questions and > responses to others questions here to save list traffic... > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: VS-1014 Question in Empennage
Date: Feb 11, 2007
After match drilling the holes of both VS-1014 with VS-1003 in the RV-10 empennage kit, I noticed that the last hole on each of the VS-1014 is too close to the end. After countersinking, the edge of the counter sink hole is at the end of the VS-1014. I see three options, with the option two appearing to make the most sense to me. 1. Leave it as is, but with the hole this close, I suspect this will eventually crack and my cause a problem with the VS-1014 doubler down the road. 2. Trim the VS-1014 a little shorter to remove this last hole. This would shorten the piece about 1/4 inch. 3. There is always start over with a new part, but since this is a length issue on a part that I didn't cut, I'm not sure I wouldn't end up in the same boat again. I can forward a picture if necessary. What option would you recommend I take? Thanks, Bob #40684 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: VS-1014 Question in Empennage
Bob, Send me a photo and which page of the plans you are on and I'll try to help you out. I can also send you some photos of my VS construction. -Jim 40384 Bob Leffler wrote: > > >After match drilling the holes of both VS-1014 with VS-1003 in the RV-10 >empennage kit, I noticed that the last hole on each of the VS-1014 is too >close to the end. After countersinking, the edge of the counter sink hole >is at the end of the VS-1014. > >I see three options, with the option two appearing to make the most sense to >me. > >1. Leave it as is, but with the hole this close, I suspect this will >eventually crack and my cause a problem with the VS-1014 doubler down the >road. > >2. Trim the VS-1014 a little shorter to remove this last hole. This would >shorten the piece about 1/4 inch. > >3. There is always start over with a new part, but since this is a length >issue on a part that I didn't cut, I'm not sure I wouldn't end up in the >same boat again. > >I can forward a picture if necessary. > >What option would you recommend I take? > >Thanks, > >Bob >#40684 > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 600HP RV-10
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: lessdragprod(at)aol.com
I didn't realize the RV-10 list were this insensitive. The builder died suddenly from a heart attack. Hopefully his wife isn't seeing your posting about her husbands dream machine. It appears the seller is trying to get out of a bad situation. I thought the "list" was here to help. Perhaps I'm wrong, again. Regards, Jim Ayers -----Original Message----- From: jdalton77(at)comcast.net Sent: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 8:30 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 600HP RV-10 Hey, don't laugh. I read about a guy in a glass plane that did just that. He didn't attach his wing attach bolts with nuts but just glassed over them. It made for a very troubling first test flight. Jeff oshare ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Attach Nutplates
All,=0A I am working on the wing spars and on page 13-4 step 3 I need to machine countersink the nutplate attach rivet holes. That's all fine and dandy but there are two holes for the fuel tank nutplates that are too clos e to the spar step to get the countersink in there. How have you been able to get in there? I am sure I am missing something very obvious. Thanks i n advance.=0A=0A--Shawn=0A40366=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A_________________________ ___________________________________________________________=0AWant to start iness.yahoo.com/r-index ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Attach Nutplates
I just used a deburring bit (100 degree) in an electric screwdriver... Just keep going until the rivet is flush. Takes longer than the microstop, and you need to be careful of the depth, but it works! -Jim 40384 Shawn Moon wrote: > All, > I am working on the wing spars and on page 13-4 step 3 I need to > machine countersink the nutplate attach rivet holes. That's all fine > and dandy but there are two holes for the fuel tank nutplates that are > too close to the spar step to get the countersink in there. How have > you been able to get in there? I am sure I am missing something very > obvious. Thanks in advance. > > --Shawn > 40366 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Never Miss an Email > Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! > <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=43909/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/services?promote=mail> > > >* > > >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Doble (Home Office)" <mikedoble(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 600HP RV-10
Date: Feb 11, 2007
Mr. Ayers: I understand your concern. We ARE trying to help! If and when this RV-10 gets airborne with 600 hp and the design limits of the airframe are exceeded, it will crash. This crash will cause the death of those aboard. It's quite simple. We do not want to see this happen. Please research and understand the design limits of this aircraft before you criticize this list and its members for being insensitive. I could go on, but I'll leave it at this: You're way off base! Mike Doble Builder 40691 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of lessdragprod(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 1:45 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 600HP RV-10 I didn't realize the RV-10 list were this insensitive. The builder died suddenly from a heart attack. Hopefully his wife isn't seeing your posting about her husbands dream machine. It appears the seller is trying to get out of a bad situation. I thought the "list" was here to help. Perhaps I'm wrong, again. Regards, Jim Ayers -----Original Message----- From: jdalton77(at)comcast.net Sent: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 8:30 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: 600HP RV-10 Hey, don't laugh. I read about a guy in a glass plane that did just that. He didn't attach his wing attach bolts with nuts but just glassed over them. It made for a very troubling first test flight. Jeff oshare _____ size=2 width="100%" align=center> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "SteinAir, Inc." <stein(at)steinair.com>
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 11, 2007
Wow....I can't believe all the banter about these planes from literally everyone who has little to NO knowledge themselves. It seems even Jims "understanding" is just flat wrong. The facts are: Predator Aviation was building a custom plane called the "Kymera 750" (aka an RV-10 with a 700+somethingth hp engine) and also the Kymera 440. They Kymera "750" was priced/sold around $300K and the "440" was around $200K. They had to call them a new plane, because Predator Aviation themselves got in trouble selling/advertising turnkey RV-10's (The FAA got in the middle of it some time ago). Predator Aviation/Chris Opperman sold TWO "Kymera 750's or 440's" to individuals who BOTH paid a LOT of money (we're talking hundreds of thousands of $$'s here). Incidentally, both of the buyers / customers are doctors - I know one of them very well and just met the other after this whole debacle. I was building the panel for one of the customers and the other was being built by Predator (supposedly). Chris ordered avionis from me for "both" planes. Predator Aviation constantly send updates to both "customers" complete with pictures, progress reports, etc.. on BOTH planes. Both customers truly believed that each of them was having a plane built by Opperman and relied on his "progress reports" of newly clecoed together pieces as proof of progress. Both customers previous to his "death" last year did not know each other. Both customers didn't spend time on site.


January 26, 2007 - February 11, 2007

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