RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cb

February 11, 2007 - February 21, 2007



      
      Both customers found out after Oppermans death that in fact there was only
      ONE airplane, and an incomplete one at that.
      
      Both customers fought over who's plane it was (since both of them had paid a
      LOT OF $$'s for their plane).
      
      The "Kymera 750 or 440" was promised to be a super fast, super structurally
      modified (Chris told me many times personally about all his "engineering"
      modifications to the airplane that made it so different from an RV-10).
      
      Quote from their sales brochure says "Airframe Reinforced for high payload".
      
      This whole thing was/is a bloody mess with both guys losing a ton of money.
      Look at the Predator Aviation website if you want the details. They claimed:
      274mph cruise, 2400 nm range, 1850lb usefull load, 120gal fuel capacity and
      750+ hp turbocharged engine.
      
      The only sad thing here is that the current owner of the kit was so ignorant
      (who in the world honestly thinks that plane is even remotely done).  The
      fact is there is about 2% of work done on that plane.....I don't think the
      guy is stupid, just one of the most ignorant people I've ever met.  Who
      thinks they have 9" GRT displays, or a 92" prop, or an 80% completed
      airplane that's barely unpacked from the crate?!?!?!?  I feel bad for anyone
      that now falls for those lies or plain ignorance (I don't know which), just
      like the original two owners fell for Oppermans lies.
      
      As far as picking on a Dead Guy, well.....it turns out he wasn't the most
      ethical, moral, or honest person in the world when it came to customers and
      business.  We all may wonder how in the world people get involved in things
      like that, and at the time of his supposed death when I found out all the
      nasty details from both customers I thought  - - "Who would send that much
      money without getting anything back, etc.. or checking in constantly".
      
      Then, I find myself losing hundreds of thousands of $$'s myself in the
      middle of this D2A/Chelton debacle and I see how easy it is to end up on the
      receiving end of bad deals.
      
      Just my 2 cents as usual!  Sorry if anyone gets offended, but it seems like
      I've seen lots banter here with little to no first hand knowledge of the
      situation.
      
      Cheers,
      Stein.
      
      P.S., I've attached a copy of their sales brochure (if it makes it) for your
      review.  Chris actually thought I'd be crazy enough to try and "resell"
      these things for him...!
        -----Original Message-----
        From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
      lessdragprod(at)aol.com
        Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 2:00 PM
        To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
        Subject: Re: RV10-List: unbelievable!!!
      
      
        I certainly like to see how easy it is for some people WITHOUT ANY
      APPARRENT KNOWLWDGE OF A PROJECT to be critical of another persons dream.
      
        It's my understanding that the builder who had this RV-10 dream machine
      died of a sudden heart attack.
      
        I like your style of picking on a dead guy.  NOT.
      
        Jim Ayers
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!
I think that the tipoff that this *might* be BS is the 2500 mile range with 120 gallons, economy cruise of around 225mph. With these numbers, that means over 11 hour endurance, which equates to *10GPH fuel burn on a 700+HP engine. * As Scotty says: "You cannot change the laws of physics!" Doctors you say? Must be Psychology.... You just can't make this stuff up... -Jim SteinAir, Inc. wrote: > Wow....I can't believe all the banter about these planes from > literally everyone who has little to NO knowledge themselves. It > seems even Jims "understanding" is just flat wrong. The facts are: > > Predator Aviation was building a custom plane called the "Kymera 750" > (aka an RV-10 with a 700+somethingth hp engine) and also the Kymera 440. > > They Kymera "750" was priced/sold around $300K and the "440" was > around $200K. > > They had to call them a new plane, because Predator Aviation > themselves got in trouble selling/advertising turnkey RV-10's (The FAA > got in the middle of it some time ago). > > Predator Aviation/Chris Opperman sold TWO "Kymera 750's or 440's" to > individuals who BOTH paid a LOT of money (we're talking hundreds of > thousands of $$'s here). > > Incidentally, both of the buyers / customers are doctors - I know one > of them very well and just met the other after this whole debacle. I > was building the panel for one of the customers and the other was > being built by Predator (supposedly). > > Chris ordered avionis from me for "both" planes. > > Predator Aviation constantly send updates to both "customers" complete > with pictures, progress reports, etc.. on BOTH planes. > > Both customers truly believed that each of them was having a plane > built by Opperman and relied on his "progress reports" of newly > clecoed together pieces as proof of progress. > > Both customers previous to his "death" last year did not know each other. > > Both customers didn't spend time on site. > > Both customers found out after Oppermans death that in fact there was > only ONE airplane, and an incomplete one at that. > > Both customers fought over who's plane it was (since both of them had > paid a LOT OF $$'s for their plane). > > The "Kymera 750 or 440" was promised to be a super fast, super > structurally modified (Chris told me many times personally about all > his "engineering" modifications to the airplane that made it so > different from an RV-10). > > Quote from their sales brochure says "Airframe Reinforced for high > payload". > > This whole thing was/is a bloody mess with both guys losing a ton of > money. Look at the Predator Aviation website if you want the > details. They claimed: 274mph cruise, 2400 nm range, 1850lb usefull > load, 120gal fuel capacity and 750+ hp turbocharged engine. > > The only sad thing here is that the current owner of the kit was so > ignorant (who in the world honestly thinks that plane is even remotely > done). The fact is there is about 2% of work done on that plane.....I > don't think the guy is stupid, just one of the most ignorant people > I've ever met. Who thinks they have 9" GRT displays, or a 92" prop, > or an 80% completed airplane that's barely unpacked from the > crate?!?!?!? I feel bad for anyone that now falls for those lies or > plain ignorance (I don't know which), just like the original two > owners fell for Oppermans lies. > > As far as picking on a Dead Guy, well.....it turns out he wasn't the > most ethical, moral, or honest person in the world when it came > to customers and business. We all may wonder how in the world people > get involved in things like that, and at the time of his supposed > death when I found out all the nasty details from both customers I > thought - - "Who would send that much money without getting anything > back, etc.. or checking in constantly". > > Then, I find myself losing hundreds of thousands of $$'s myself in the > middle of this D2A/Chelton debacle and I see how easy it is to end up > on the receiving end of bad deals. > > Just my 2 cents as usual! Sorry if anyone gets offended, but it seems > like I've seen lots banter here with little to no first hand knowledge > of the situation. > > Cheers, > Stein. > > P.S., I've attached a copy of their sales brochure (if it makes it) > for your review. Chris actually thought I'd be crazy enough to try > and "resell" these things for him...! > > -----Original Message----- > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]*On Behalf Of* > lessdragprod(at)aol.com > *Sent:* Sunday, February 11, 2007 2:00 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! > > I certainly like to see how easy it is for some people WITHOUT ANY > APPARRENT KNOWLWDGE OF A PROJECT to be critical of another persons > dream. > > It's my understanding that the builder who had this RV-10 dream > machine died of a sudden heart attack. > > I like your style of picking on a dead guy. NOT. > > Jim Ayers > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LessDragProd(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 11, 2007
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!
Hi Stein, Opinions are like belly buttons. Everyone has one. Jim Ayers Build more - Type less. In a message dated 02/11/2007 3:59:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, stein(at)steinair.com writes: Wow....I can't believe all the banter about these planes from literally everyone who has little to NO knowledge themselves. It seems even Jims "understanding" is just flat wrong. (Stuff Cut) Just my 2 cents as usual! Sorry if anyone gets offended, but it seems like I've seen lots banter here with little to no first hand knowledge of the situation. Cheers, Stein. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: Shawn Moon <moons1999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Attach Nutplates
That is what I was thinking about. Thought there might be a better way to do it but I guess not. Thanks for the reply.=0A=0A--Shawn=0A40366=0A=0A--- -- Original Message ----=0AFrom: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>=0ATo: rv10-lis t(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 3:07:17 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Attach Nutplates=0A=0A--> RV10-List message posted by : James Hein =0A=0AI just used a deburring bit (100 degree) in an electric screwdriver... =0AJust keep going until the rivet is flush .=0A=0ATakes longer than the microstop, and you need to be careful of the =0Adepth, but it works!=0A=0A-Jim 40384=0A=0AShawn Moon wrote:=0A=0A> All, =0A> I am working on the wing spars and on page 13-4 step 3 I need to =0A> machine countersink the nutplate attach rivet holes. That's all fine =0A> and dandy but there are two holes for the fuel tank nutplates that are =0A> too close to the spar step to get the countersink in there. How have =0A> you been able to get in there? I am sure I am missing something very =0A> obvious. Thanks in advance.=0A>=0A> --Shawn=0A> 40366=0A>=0A> ------ ------------------------------------------------------------------=0A> Neve r Miss an Email=0A> Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get sta rted! =0A> <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=43909/*http://mobile.yahoo.com/ser ===================0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A =0A___________________________________________________________ _________________________=0AIt's here! Your new message! =0AGet new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.=0Ahttp://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolba r/features/mail/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 11, 2007
You're absolutely right, bellybuttons are prevalent, but Opinions based on fact seem to be in short supply..(just my ill informed opinion) I find myself strangely curious as to the different takes on the many subjects touched on in this group. I really don't mind the banter; I have a quick delete finger. But, I really appreciate when someone steps up and clears the air. In this case its Stein, But I tip my hat to all contributors who educate, inform, and entertain on a daily basis. Steve d 40205 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LessDragProd(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 8:26 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! Hi Stein, Opinions are like belly buttons. Everyone has one. Jim Ayers Build more - Type less. In a message dated 02/11/2007 3:59:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, stein(at)steinair.com writes: Wow....I can't believe all the banter about these planes from literally everyone who has little to NO knowledge themselves. It seems even Jims "understanding" is just flat wrong. (Stuff Cut) Just my 2 cents as usual! Sorry if anyone gets offended, but it seems like I've seen lots banter here with little to no first hand knowledge of the situation. Cheers, Stein. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Electrical System Critique
Date: Feb 11, 2007
Thank you Tim, Larry, Jesse, and Carl for you inputs. My guess is that there are a lot of us deliberating the numerous options and trade offs on the electrical system. I would like to encourage us to get a useful dialog going to sort through the pros and cons of the various approaches. Based on what I have learned, I have changed my approach considerably. I have attached my new design as well as the old design (as a PDF for those who could not open it before). Let's continue to critique the approach for everyone's benefit. Tim made some really good points about having independent power (not on the cranking battery) to the Cheltons, Eng. Monitor and Elect. Ignition for engine start. This caused me to drop the idea of having a 2nd battery available for cranking and use the second battery for start-up avionics and Ebus backup. The main changes I have made are: I am going with one large main battery - Odyssey 925, 25AH; and a smaller 12AH auxiliary battery (much like Tim's). During engine start I will run the Ebus (PFD, Eng Mon and E Ign) off of the Aux battery while cranking from the main battery. After start, I will turn off the Ebus alternate feed, turn on the Avionics switch, and run everything off the main battery. I will run the E Ign. off the aux battery (everything is really running off the alternator during flight anyway). I have moved the pitot heat and the fuel boost pump to the main bus. If the alternator fails I will switch to the Ebus alt feed, manually load shed the main bus (most loads are on switches anyway). And if I need fuel boost or pitot, I can turn the main bus back on. The only downside is if the main battery fails I can only power the Ebus from the aux battery. I took the contactor off the aux battery since the load is under 15A and a contactor would draw 1A during an emergency. I don't have an Aux battery switch (other than the Ebus alt feed switch) since I can't think of a need for one. The Aux battery will be charged through a diode to the main bus and the E. Ign is tied through a breaker. I put the Eng. Monitor on the Ebus since it will be on during start up. I will be using the AFS3400 which gives me full EFIS back up with its own internal battery. Some concerns and questions: I am running #8 from the alternator to the main bus. The wire size chart (AC43.13) says a #8 wire is good for 70A at 10ft. Others are using #6 to go from alternator to the main bus. Do I have a problem? Should I put the smaller aux battery under the flap tunnel or next to the main battery for W&B? What is a good/light 12AH battery? Is the Ebus diode really needed in this design? Should the main battery be grounded locally as well as running to the firewall? Let me know what you think and contribute any ideas for the benefit of all the others who are working through their designs. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA FWF, engine, wiring -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical System Critique
Reply below John Testement wrote: > Thank you Tim, Larry, Jesse, and Carl for you inputs. > > My guess is that there are a lot of us deliberating the numerous options and > trade offs on the electrical system. I would like to encourage us to get a > useful dialog going to sort through the pros and cons of the various > approaches. > I think I have considered every different type electrical design. It went something like this: Dual alternator single battery, single alternator dual battery, duel alternator duel battery, then back to a dual alternator single battery design, which is where I am now. An now with your comments I am considering a small battery just for start up. My plan was to use the internal battery in the AFS-3400 to run the engine monitor during start. All other avionics off. > Based on what I have learned, I have changed my approach considerably. I > have attached my new design as well as the old design (as a PDF for those > who could not open it before). Let's continue to critique the approach for > everyone's benefit. > > ..... > > If the alternator fails I will switch to the Ebus alt feed, Shut off the master battery contactor? > manually load shed the main bus (most loads are on switches anyway). And then turn on the master battery contactor to use the main battery and the standby battery? > And if I need fuel > boost or pitot, I can turn the main bus back on. The only downside is if the > main battery fails I can only power the Ebus from the aux battery. > If you do lose the main battery, won't the alternator still supply power, although in may not be a stable? > ... > > Some concerns and questions: I am running #8 from the alternator to the main > bus. The wire size chart (AC43.13) says a #8 wire is good for 70A at 10ft. > Others are using #6 to go from alternator to the main bus. Do I have a > problem? > I am using AC 43.13-1B Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair table 11-3 DC wire and circuit protector chart. It recommends 8AWG up to 50 amp fuse or breaker and 6AWG for an 80amp breaker and 70amp fuse. But, I am sure the devil is in the details. 11-49 says, "... This chart was prepared for the conditions specified.... In general, the chart is conservative for all ordinary aircraft electrical installations" However Table 11-9 Current carrying capacity and resistance of copper wire. Figure 11-2 does say 8AWG wire and 70 amps. Since the continuous load is not 60 amps I would think 8AWG is not a problem. That being said I am using 6AWG. I would like to know more about the details. > Should I put the smaller aux battery under the flap tunnel or next to the > main battery for W&B? What is a good/light 12AH battery? > Is the Ebus diode really needed in this design? If you find one let me know > > Should the main battery be grounded locally as well as running to the > firewall? > > I think this would give more problems with ground loops. > Let me know what you think and contribute any ideas for the benefit of all > the others who are working through their designs. > > John Testement > jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com > 40321 > Richmond, VA > FWF, engine, wiring > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
Date: Feb 12, 2007
Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve like the "real" planes have? Richard Reynolds ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Richard Reynolds <rvreynolds(at)macs.net>
Subject: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
Date: Feb 12, 2007
OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc. Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve for superior crafted OBAM planes? Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve like the "real" planes have? Richard Reynolds ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
My Real RV10 has an alternate air source, I used the kit for the static system from Safeair, and included the alternate option. But I do not know if the RV10 is real enough for you? Dan N289DT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Reynolds Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 7:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve like the "real" planes have? Richard Reynolds ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
A lot of "unreal" type certificated aircraft are certified for IFR without an alternate static source. Both TC aircraft I have owned fit that description. On 2/12/07, Richard Reynolds wrote: > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > like the "real" planes have? > > Richard Reynolds > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: RE: VS-1014 Question in Empennage
Date: Feb 12, 2007
Just got off the phone with Gus at Van's. His opinion was just to proceed, since dimpling the VS-1003 and countersinking the VS-1014s doesn't weaken the structure. He didn't think there would be an issue with the edge of the counter sink at the upper end of the VS-1014. But quickly added if that bothered me, just to add a doubler on the last two (top) holes to the VS-1014. Boy, did I learn some lessons this weekend! Thanks to all that provided feedback. bob >It appears that my mistake was that I dimpled VS-1003 and VS-1001, then >counter sink VS-1014. >It has been brought to my attention that I should have not done anything to >VS-1014 and just counter sink VS1003 to accept the dimpled skin. >The question that I guess Van's will need to answer is can I just rivet >this, or will it require me to start fresh with new parts. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
Date: Feb 12, 2007
My Cherokee has the same valve for an alternate static source as the fuel quick drain valves. I don't recall their name, but I can look it up when I get home. I paid like $75 dollars to get it from Wentworth, so I was sure to installed the OEM part, but was disappointed when I saw what the valve actually was and could have bought the same valve (although not with the appropriate Piper p/n#) from my FBO for about $10. In looking at the Safeair alternate, while it appears to be quite easy to remove the plug, how easy is it to blindly replace the plug for testing? The valve on my Cherokee can open and close blindy with one finger. The valve is just under the dash by my knee. > > From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> > Date: 2007/02/12 Mon AM 10:02:53 EST > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve > > > My Real RV10 has an alternate air source, I used the kit for the static > system from Safeair, and included the alternate option. But I do not > know if the RV10 is real enough for you? > Dan > N289DT > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard > Reynolds > Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 7:11 AM > To: Email RV; rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve > > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > like the "real" planes have? > > Richard Reynolds > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Engine Mount Hole Alignment to Firewall
I tried to drill the engine mount holes in the firewall this weekend. Afte r drilling the left upper hole first (pilots side) I noticed that the firew all pilot hole on the upper right side is about 3/16 inch off (outboard.) The lower holes are not too bad. I sent an email to Vans asking if I shoul d simply stretch the engine mount frame into place since it appears I can p ull it into place with just my hands (no clamps ). Here is the response. =0A=0A"Since the engine mount weldment moves somewhat when it it =0Aremoved from the jig, we don't expect all the holes to line up. If =0Aafter drill ing the upper left hole, some of the other holes seem to be =0Afairly close , drill them first. Drill the upper right hole last. Don't =0Aforce the m ount into position."=0A=0AI am including this since when I did a search on the archives I found references to forcing the mount into position.=0A=0AFo llowing the recommended procedure it would be interesting if one has to rep lace an engine mount frame. I hope they all move the same amount after rem oval from the jig.=0A=0A=0ANiko=0A40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Feb 12, 2007
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
Try Tony at SAFEAIR1. Dean 40449 ________________________________________________________________________ Interested in getting caught up on today's news? Click here to checkout USA TODAY Headlines. http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=198954&u=http://www.usatoday.com/news/f ront.htm?csp=24

Try Tony at SAFEAIR1.

Dean

40449



______________________ __________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
Hi Richard, hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line. And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication. Werner Richard Reynolds wrote: > OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc. > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > for superior crafted OBAM planes? > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > like the "real" planes have? > > Richard Reynolds > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: LarryRosen(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
Date: Feb 12, 2007
Safe Air 1 has a kit But, I like Werner's approach better. Larry Rosen #356 -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> > Hi Richard, > > hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve > CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line. > > And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication. > > Werner > > Richard Reynolds wrote: > > OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc. > > > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > > for superior crafted OBAM planes? > > > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > > like the "real" planes have? > > > > Richard Reynolds > > > > * > > > > > > * From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 16:50:58 +0000 Content-Type: Multipart/mixed; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_1794_1171301506_1" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_1794_1171301506_1 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------030306060507070609060704" --------------030306060507070609060704 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Richard, hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line. And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication. Werner Richard Reynolds wrote: > OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc. > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > for superior crafted OBAM planes? > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > like the "real" planes have? > > Richard Reynolds > > * > > > * --------------030306060507070609060704 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Richard,

hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line.

And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication.

Werner

Richard Reynolds wrote:
OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc.

Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve for superior crafted OBAM planes?

Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve like the "real" planes have?

Richard Reynolds


      
      
      
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From: "RV_10" <john_rv10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Electrical System Critique
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Hi John, I am also struggling with this design and am probably two steps behind you. I like the way you have laid yours out, combining physical location with the electrical diagram. This helps me conceptualise. My own thoughts are not dissimilar to yours with a couple of variations. I am keen to bullet proof my electrical system so at a conceptual level what I am thinking is as follows:- * Two batteries of equal size so you can change them out alternately and always have a relatively new battery for the avionics/endurance buss. Two 17AH batteries should suffice * Run two fairly equal size busses, one with the main airframe electrics as you have done, the second with the critical to flight safety avionics etc. The critical to flight safety buss might be on two busses, an avionics buss and an endurance buss. To balance out the busses I am considering putting the engine monitor system on the main power buss because I want it for engine start and if I lose a circuit I figure I can live without this for the time it takes to sort out what has happened and what I need to do. If necessary, completing the rest of the flight without it is probably OK if not desirable. As pointed out, most items on the main buss are separately switched, so after things settle you can switch as desired to get back what you can afford to carry. * Set the batteries up so you can choose to run either battery with either circuit. If both batteries are down the back, this creates a problem with added wire weight to my mind, because you need to run three 4AWG wires from the back if you plan to use both batteries to crank, and two 4AWG plus 1 2AWG if you plan to use one battery to crank. We live in Australia so we don't get the freezing conditions where I plan to do most my flying, so I like the idea of using the older battery on the power circuit, using it to crank the engine on its own, and at the first sign of not doing that task well, change that battery out for a new one and rotate batteries. I recognize that this approach won't suit all situations. I would like to put the main battery up the front so I can run very short wires from it to crank the engine, but I am not sure yet whether this is appropriate from a weight and balance perspective. I do like Jesse Saint's logic from a weight and balance perspective with doing this. * Install two alternators which are switched to run either/or, not both because of the complexity associated with trying to get both alternators working at the same time, plus I think it is better redundancy planning this way. * Run one electronic and one mag ignition as you have done, so that in the absolute worse case scenario the engine keeps running on the mag. * No vacuum system because of their weight and inherent unreliability. * Run over voltage protection on both alternators because of the damage that can be done to everything without it. That's about where I am with my thinking at this stage and I am now ready to move to the more detailed planning phase. Would you please post an ACAD version of your layout if you have one? Thanks very much for kicking this thread off, it is very helpful. John Cleary (finishing wings, started fuse) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Testement Sent: Monday, 12 February 2007 1:36 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Electrical System Critique Thank you Tim, Larry, Jesse, and Carl for you inputs. My guess is that there are a lot of us deliberating the numerous options and trade offs on the electrical system. I would like to encourage us to get a useful dialog going to sort through the pros and cons of the various approaches. Based on what I have learned, I have changed my approach considerably. I have attached my new design as well as the old design (as a PDF for those who could not open it before). Let's continue to critique the approach for everyone's benefit. Tim made some really good points about having independent power (not on the cranking battery) to the Cheltons, Eng. Monitor and Elect. Ignition for engine start. This caused me to drop the idea of having a 2nd battery available for cranking and use the second battery for start-up avionics and Ebus backup. The main changes I have made are: I am going with one large main battery - Odyssey 925, 25AH; and a smaller 12AH auxiliary battery (much like Tim's). During engine start I will run the Ebus (PFD, Eng Mon and E Ign) off of the Aux battery while cranking from the main battery. After start, I will turn off the Ebus alternate feed, turn on the Avionics switch, and run everything off the main battery. I will run the E Ign. off the aux battery (everything is really running off the alternator during flight anyway). I have moved the pitot heat and the fuel boost pump to the main bus. If the alternator fails I will switch to the Ebus alt feed, manually load shed the main bus (most loads are on switches anyway). And if I need fuel boost or pitot, I can turn the main bus back on. The only downside is if the main battery fails I can only power the Ebus from the aux battery. I took the contactor off the aux battery since the load is under 15A and a contactor would draw 1A during an emergency. I don't have an Aux battery switch (other than the Ebus alt feed switch) since I can't think of a need for one. The Aux battery will be charged through a diode to the main bus and the E. Ign is tied through a breaker. I put the Eng. Monitor on the Ebus since it will be on during start up. I will be using the AFS3400 which gives me full EFIS back up with its own internal battery. Some concerns and questions: I am running #8 from the alternator to the main bus. The wire size chart (AC43.13) says a #8 wire is good for 70A at 10ft. Others are using #6 to go from alternator to the main bus. Do I have a problem? Should I put the smaller aux battery under the flap tunnel or next to the main battery for W&B? What is a good/light 12AH battery? Is the Ebus diode really needed in this design? Should the main battery be grounded locally as well as running to the firewall? Let me know what you think and contribute any ideas for the benefit of all the others who are working through their designs. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA FWF, engine, wiring -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!
and now we know "the rest of the story" Thanks Stein. ----- Original Message ----- From: SteinAir, Inc. To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 3:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! Wow....I can't believe all the banter about these planes from literally everyone who has little to NO knowledge themselves. It seems even Jims "understanding" is just flat wrong. The facts are: Predator Aviation was building a custom plane called the "Kymera 750" (aka an RV-10 with a 700+somethingth hp engine) and also the Kymera 440. They Kymera "750" was priced/sold around $300K and the "440" was around $200K. They had to call them a new plane, because Predator Aviation themselves got in trouble selling/advertising turnkey RV-10's (The FAA got in the middle of it some time ago). Predator Aviation/Chris Opperman sold TWO "Kymera 750's or 440's" to individuals who BOTH paid a LOT of money (we're talking hundreds of thousands of $$'s here). Incidentally, both of the buyers / customers are doctors - I know one of them very well and just met the other after this whole debacle. I was building the panel for one of the customers and the other was being built by Predator (supposedly). Chris ordered avionis from me for "both" planes. Predator Aviation constantly send updates to both "customers" complete with pictures, progress reports, etc.. on BOTH planes. Both customers truly believed that each of them was having a plane built by Opperman and relied on his "progress reports" of newly clecoed together pieces as proof of progress. Both customers previous to his "death" last year did not know each other. Both customers didn't spend time on site. Both customers found out after Oppermans death that in fact there was only ONE airplane, and an incomplete one at that. Both customers fought over who's plane it was (since both of them had paid a LOT OF $$'s for their plane). The "Kymera 750 or 440" was promised to be a super fast, super structurally modified (Chris told me many times personally about all his "engineering" modifications to the airplane that made it so different from an RV-10). Quote from their sales brochure says "Airframe Reinforced for high payload". This whole thing was/is a bloody mess with both guys losing a ton of money. Look at the Predator Aviation website if you want the details. They claimed: 274mph cruise, 2400 nm range, 1850lb usefull load, 120gal fuel capacity and 750+ hp turbocharged engine. The only sad thing here is that the current owner of the kit was so ignorant (who in the world honestly thinks that plane is even remotely done). The fact is there is about 2% of work done on that plane.....I don't think the guy is stupid, just one of the most ignorant people I've ever met. Who thinks they have 9" GRT displays, or a 92" prop, or an 80% completed airplane that's barely unpacked from the crate?!?!?!? I feel bad for anyone that now falls for those lies or plain ignorance (I don't know which), just like the original two owners fell for Oppermans lies. As far as picking on a Dead Guy, well.....it turns out he wasn't the most ethical, moral, or honest person in the world when it came to customers and business. We all may wonder how in the world people get involved in things like that, and at the time of his supposed death when I found out all the nasty details from both customers I thought - - "Who would send that much money without getting anything back, etc.. or checking in constantly". Then, I find myself losing hundreds of thousands of $$'s myself in the middle of this D2A/Chelton debacle and I see how easy it is to end up on the receiving end of bad deals. Just my 2 cents as usual! Sorry if anyone gets offended, but it seems like I've seen lots banter here with little to no first hand knowledge of the situation. Cheers, Stein. P.S., I've attached a copy of their sales brochure (if it makes it) for your review. Chris actually thought I'd be crazy enough to try and "resell" these things for him...! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lessdragprod(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 2:00 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! I certainly like to see how easy it is for some people WITHOUT ANY APPARRENT KNOWLWDGE OF A PROJECT to be critical of another persons dream. It's my understanding that the builder who had this RV-10 dream machine died of a sudden heart attack. I like your style of picking on a dead guy. NOT. Jim Ayers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pro seal
Date: Feb 12, 2007
I used some proseal from Van's which was sold in the caulking tube style system. I read the instructions several times and for the life of me without any pictures, the directions made aboslutley no sense to me. I ended up shooting the catalyst tube into the main product tube and then expelling it out and hand mixing. The question is how long does it take before a skin starts forming on the product. WHEN i DID THE trailing edges I left everthing for five days. Fortunately I am only glueing the SV vents to the fuse but after two days, it's like it is not setting. How much time is required for a tacky skin to form. John G Greatful for not doing the fuel tanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
It is basically the same thing, breaking the static air line, just one comes with a streamer to pull, or am I missing something? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LarryRosen(at)comcast.net Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 12:32 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX Safe Air 1 has a kit But, I like Werner's approach better. Larry Rosen #356 -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> > Hi Richard, > > hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve > CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line. > > And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication. > > Werner > > Richard Reynolds wrote: > > OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc. > > > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > > for superior crafted OBAM planes? > > > > Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve > > like the "real" planes have? > > > > Richard Reynolds > > > > * > > > > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Happy Anniversary Tim!
Tim; Been a year since that first flight. Happy Anniversary! How about a year in review and what you've learned since that first flight? Pascal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Pro seal
Date: Feb 12, 2007
After you push the catalyst into the main tube, I think you pull/push the handle for about 50 times to get it all mixed up before you push it out of the tube to use it. I'm sure you can mix it outside of the tube since that's the way we do it when we use the canned product. My experience with the stuff is that if the mix is just a little wrong it increases/decreases the curing time but it still cures. The properly mixed stuff should be kind of gray. The tubes are nice for the tanks since the nozzle lets you put down a nice bead inside the tanks but much more expensive than the bulk product. Also, you have to use/throw-away the tube but with the can you can mix up just what you need or, if short, just mix up a dab more. I use the old 1 dab on a popsicle stick to 10 dabs ratio and it works fine. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Pro seal
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
ProSeal is a trademarked product of PPG - DeSoto. FlameMaster makes a similar product which is commonly confusing. Consistency is rated A, B or C. They are mixed by product specification to a cure time of 1/4, 1/2, 1 and 2 hour set. The set process can be retarded by refrigeration. The product has a shelf life as a perishable. When properly mixed, it Does set and Does cure to final consistency. Chewing gum comes to mind. It is paintable. When improperly mixed it does not correctly cure. B is the most often used in aviation. For Line aircraft, B1/4 sets the quickest, B1/2 is most often used for initial construction or Heavy Check (annual inspection) type repairs. When improperly mixed it never becomes compliant and will fail. Spraying it with Isopropyl Alcohol mist allows the operator to smooth the product and provide a finishing touch. We use masking tape to form the sidelines. MEK dissolves it before SET and is not recommended without correct clothing and barrier skin protection. It has many uses, it stinks, it can be messy. A proseal "professional" for the World's Top Regional Airline of 2007. "Proseal... love it or leave it". John, call me on my cellphone 503-453-6016, and I will share all the wisdom of proseal. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: RV10-List: Pro seal I used some proseal from Van's which was sold in the caulking tube style system. I read the instructions several times and for the life of me without any pictures, the directions made aboslutley no sense to me. I ended up shooting the catalyst tube into the main product tube and then expelling it out and hand mixing. The question is how long does it take before a skin starts forming on the product. WHEN i DID THE trailing edges I left everthing for five days. Fortunately I am only glueing the SV vents to the fuse but after two days, it's like it is not setting. How much time is required for a tacky skin to form. John G Greatful for not doing the fuel tanks. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Panel Lettering
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
For those who may be interested in how the labels came out. cheers, Ron finishing ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGANN, Ron Sent: Tuesday, 30 January 2007 8:57 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Panel Lettering I remember a recent query (from Niko I think) about panel lettering. Let me share what I am doing. Objectives I prefer something removeable, rather than engraved or silk screened - provides greater flexibility in the future and I wanted to do it myself I wanted to use materials available locally - importing stuff to Australia is expensive I wanted something tough/waterproof. I wanted flexibility in the design eg use of Visio or a CAD package Solution Placard/label design was done using Visio (but any drawing package will work) [As an aside, once the full size label is done, print it onto clear adhesive label, stick it to the panel and use it as a template to drill your lamp/switch holes.] Use a Post Script color laser printer and print a mirror image on the Bottom side of an overhead transparency. This will mean the print is on the underside of the slide and the print is protected by the plastic. White does not print on most printers, so white lines/text will be clear on the transparency. Easy, spray a coat of white paint on the underside of the transparency (ie the same side as the print). The transparency will usually have a high gloss. Gently scuff the top surface with a scotch brite pad. Apply a light spray of clear satin acrylic - gloss gone! Apply some thin double sided tape leaving the backing on the panel side Punch the switch/lamp holes using a hole punch and trim the edges with a guillotine. Remove the tape backing and stick onto the panel. Voila!!! I tried this last night and the results are awesome. Infinite flexibility in placard design, waterproof and wear resistant label, and it cost me nothing! Attached is an example of one of the labels. YMMV, but it costs bugger all to give it a try . Cheers, Ron <> finishing ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2007
From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pro seal
A tip for thorough mixing is to use a tap in a cordless drill, then insert into the handle. Next best thing to machine mixing and will ensure a good setup. I do recall encountering the same long setup time when I attached my vents. I attributed it to my garage being cold at the time. That's been a while ago and I am certain they're not going to come off easily. Brian #40308 http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rick Leach" <papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Extensions
Date: Feb 12, 2007
First, happy one year Tim and secondly, I received the extensions today. Tell those great little helpers you have that the box making and packaging job was great. Rick Leach ________________________________________________________________________________
From: dogsbark(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Extensions
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Tim, Got mine today too. Looks good. Thanks to you and your family for all the help!!! Expertly packaged....ESD Bubble Wrap and Peanuts. What was the number three written on my box? Is that my serial number? Am I now 40225-3? Thanks, Sean Blair -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Rick Leach" <papadaddyo(at)tampabay.rr.com> First, happy one year Tim and secondly, I received the extensions today. Tell those great little helpers you have that the box making and packaging job was great. Rick Leach
 
Tim,
 
Got mine today too.  Looks good.  Thanks to you and your family for all the help!!!  Expertly packaged....ESD Bubble Wrap and Peanuts. 
 
What was the number three written on my box?  Is that my serial number?  Am I now 40225-3?
 
Thanks,
 
Sean Blair 
 
 

First, happy one year Tim and secondly, I received the extensions today.  Tell those great little helpers you have that the box making and packaging job was great.

 

Rick Leach


      
      
      

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen(at)rcn.com>
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 12, 2007
Predator, indeed. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteinAir, Inc. Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 3:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! Wow....I can't believe all the banter about these planes from literally everyone who has little to NO knowledge themselves. It seems even Jims "understanding" is just flat wrong. The facts are: Predator Aviation was building a custom plane called the "Kymera 750" (aka an RV-10 with a 700+somethingth hp engine) and also the Kymera 440. They Kymera "750" was priced/sold around $300K and the "440" was around $200K. They had to call them a new plane, because Predator Aviation themselves got in trouble selling/advertising turnkey RV-10's (The FAA got in the middle of it some time ago). Predator Aviation/Chris Opperman sold TWO "Kymera 750's or 440's" to individuals who BOTH paid a LOT of money (we're talking hundreds of thousands of $$'s here). Incidentally, both of the buyers / customers are doctors - I know one of them very well and just met the other after this whole debacle. I was building the panel for one of the customers and the other was being built by Predator (supposedly). Chris ordered avionis from me for "both" planes. Predator Aviation constantly send updates to both "customers" complete with pictures, progress reports, etc.. on BOTH planes. Both customers truly believed that each of them was having a plane built by Opperman and relied on his "progress reports" of newly clecoed together pieces as proof of progress. Both customers previous to his "death" last year did not know each other. Both customers didn't spend time on site. Both customers found out after Oppermans death that in fact there was only ONE airplane, and an incomplete one at that. Both customers fought over who's plane it was (since both of them had paid a LOT OF $$'s for their plane). The "Kymera 750 or 440" was promised to be a super fast, super structurally modified (Chris told me many times personally about all his "engineering" modifications to the airplane that made it so different from an RV-10). Quote from their sales brochure says "Airframe Reinforced for high payload". This whole thing was/is a bloody mess with both guys losing a ton of money. Look at the Predator Aviation website if you want the details. They claimed: 274mph cruise, 2400 nm range, 1850lb usefull load, 120gal fuel capacity and 750+ hp turbocharged engine. The only sad thing here is that the current owner of the kit was so ignorant (who in the world honestly thinks that plane is even remotely done). The fact is there is about 2% of work done on that plane.....I don't think the guy is stupid, just one of the most ignorant people I've ever met. Who thinks they have 9" GRT displays, or a 92" prop, or an 80% completed airplane that's barely unpacked from the crate?!?!?!? I feel bad for anyone that now falls for those lies or plain ignorance (I don't know which), just like the original two owners fell for Oppermans lies. As far as picking on a Dead Guy, well.....it turns out he wasn't the most ethical, moral, or honest person in the world when it came to customers and business. We all may wonder how in the world people get involved in things like that, and at the time of his supposed death when I found out all the nasty details from both customers I thought - - "Who would send that much money without getting anything back, etc.. or checking in constantly". Then, I find myself losing hundreds of thousands of $$'s myself in the middle of this D2A/Chelton debacle and I see how easy it is to end up on the receiving end of bad deals. Just my 2 cents as usual! Sorry if anyone gets offended, but it seems like I've seen lots banter here with little to no first hand knowledge of the situation. Cheers, Stein. P.S., I've attached a copy of their sales brochure (if it makes it) for your review. Chris actually thought I'd be crazy enough to try and "resell" these things for him...! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lessdragprod(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 2:00 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! I certainly like to see how easy it is for some people WITHOUT ANY APPARRENT KNOWLWDGE OF A PROJECT to be critical of another persons dream. It's my understanding that the builder who had this RV-10 dream machine died of a sudden heart attack. I like your style of picking on a dead guy. NOT. Jim Ayers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
Hi Daniel, yes, the SafeAir one seems to have a plug with a streamer attached, my DIY one has a CCA-1550 <http://curtissuperiorvalve.com/pipethread.html> which you push and turn to lock open (not visible in my last picture as it it protruding on the bottom of my panel (below the alum. angle visible)). br Werner Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote: > > It is basically the same thing, breaking the static air line, just one > comes with a streamer to pull, or am I missing something? > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > LarryRosen(at)comcast.net > Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 12:32 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX > > Safe Air 1 has a kit > But, I like Werner's approach better. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> > >> Hi Richard, >> >> hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve >> CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line. >> >> And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication. >> >> Werner >> >> Richard Reynolds wrote: >> >>> OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc. >>> >>> Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve >>> for superior crafted OBAM planes? >>> >>> Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve >>> like the "real" planes have? >>> >>> Richard Reynolds >>> >>> * >>> >>> >>> * >>> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "William Condon" <schnooze(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Given that the below is all true, one cannot have any sympathy for the two doctors involved or the former owner of the company. Not only did were the doctors displaying an unbelievable level of foolishness (by giving away huge sums of money to a possible crook), but they were directly threatening the experimental building community, as a whole. I say that because this apparently involved the 'for-hire' building of an experimental aircraft - since the doctors didn't know anything about the scam, they obviously hadn't invested any of their own labor in the building of the aircraft. Of course, to get an airworthiness certificate for this aircraft, the people would have to defraud the FAA. And, when people are out there defrauding the FAA, this will eventual lead to them (the FAA) eating away at the public's right to build its own airplanes. Unless, of course, there is a loophole that I don't know about (where one can pay to have kit airplanes professionally built) - if that is the case, I respectfully withdraw my comments (except for the foolishness / crook part, which still stands). Bill C. Dream - 100%, everything else - 0% US military stationed overseas until 2009 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:34 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! Predator, indeed. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteinAir, Inc. Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 3:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! Wow....I can't believe all the banter about these planes from literally everyone who has little to NO knowledge themselves. It seems even Jims "understanding" is just flat wrong. The facts are: Predator Aviation was building a custom plane called the "Kymera 750" (aka an RV-10 with a 700+somethingth hp engine) and also the Kymera 440. They Kymera "750" was priced/sold around $300K and the "440" was around $200K. They had to call them a new plane, because Predator Aviation themselves got in trouble selling/advertising turnkey RV-10's (The FAA got in the middle of it some time ago). Predator Aviation/Chris Opperman sold TWO "Kymera 750's or 440's" to individuals who BOTH paid a LOT of money (we're talking hundreds of thousands of $$'s here). Incidentally, both of the buyers / customers are doctors - I know one of them very well and just met the other after this whole debacle. I was building the panel for one of the customers and the other was being built by Predator (supposedly). Chris ordered avionis from me for "both" planes. Predator Aviation constantly send updates to both "customers" complete with pictures, progress reports, etc.. on BOTH planes. Both customers truly believed that each of them was having a plane built by Opperman and relied on his "progress reports" of newly clecoed together pieces as proof of progress. Both customers previous to his "death" last year did not know each other. Both customers didn't spend time on site. Both customers found out after Oppermans death that in fact there was only ONE airplane, and an incomplete one at that. Both customers fought over who's plane it was (since both of them had paid a LOT OF $$'s for their plane). The "Kymera 750 or 440" was promised to be a super fast, super structurally modified (Chris told me many times personally about all his "engineering" modifications to the airplane that made it so different from an RV-10). Quote from their sales brochure says "Airframe Reinforced for high payload". This whole thing was/is a bloody mess with both guys losing a ton of money. Look at the Predator Aviation website if you want the details. They claimed: 274mph cruise, 2400 nm range, 1850lb usefull load, 120gal fuel capacity and 750+ hp turbocharged engine. The only sad thing here is that the current owner of the kit was so ignorant (who in the world honestly thinks that plane is even remotely done). The fact is there is about 2% of work done on that plane.....I don't think the guy is stupid, just one of the most ignorant people I've ever met. Who thinks they have 9" GRT displays, or a 92" prop, or an 80% completed airplane that's barely unpacked from the crate?!?!?!? I feel bad for anyone that now falls for those lies or plain ignorance (I don't know which), just like the original two owners fell for Oppermans lies. As far as picking on a Dead Guy, well.....it turns out he wasn't the most ethical, moral, or honest person in the world when it came to customers and business. We all may wonder how in the world people get involved in things like that, and at the time of his supposed death when I found out all the nasty details from both customers I thought - - "Who would send that much money without getting anything back, etc.. or checking in constantly". Then, I find myself losing hundreds of thousands of $$'s myself in the middle of this D2A/Chelton debacle and I see how easy it is to end up on the receiving end of bad deals. Just my 2 cents as usual! Sorry if anyone gets offended, but it seems like I've seen lots banter here with little to no first hand knowledge of the situation. Cheers, Stein. P.S., I've attached a copy of their sales brochure (if it makes it) for your review. Chris actually thought I'd be crazy enough to try and "resell" these things for him...! -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lessdragprod(at)aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 2:00 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! I certainly like to see how easy it is for some people WITHOUT ANY APPARRENT KNOWLWDGE OF A PROJECT to be critical of another persons dream. It's my understanding that the builder who had this RV-10 dream machine died of a sudden heart attack. I like your style of picking on a dead guy. NOT. Jim Ayers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: kilopapa(at)antelecom.net
Subject: Re: Pro seal
Date: Feb 13, 2007
I had a similar slow set time in the cold, dry high desert of SoCal. I called the company and they said each 10 degrees cooler than listed specs would double the set time if I recall correctly. The set time listed is at a specific temp and humidity. Cooler and dryer would certainly affect that. It did finally set for me but took much longer than the listed specs. (It was fresh stock from Van's) Kevin 40494 ----- Original Message Follows ----- From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> Subject: RV10-List: Pro seal Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 10:43:25 -0800 >I used some proseal from Van's which was sold in the >caulking tube style system. > >I read the instructions several times and for the life of >me without any pictures, the directions made aboslutley no >sense to me. I ended up shooting the catalyst tube into >the main product tube and then expelling it out and hand >mixing. > >The question is how long does it take before a skin starts >forming on the product. WHEN i DID THE trailing edges I >left everthing for five days. > >Fortunately I am only glueing the SV vents to the fuse but >after two days, it's like it is not setting. > >How much time is required for a tacky skin to form. > >John G > >Greatful for not doing the fuel tanks. > > >== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
Very nice, and eliminates the possibility of an accidental opening. I wish I had known about these...I like the safe air method, but am worried about where to put the streamer to make it accessible, but reduce accidental pulling. Dan -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 1:13 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX Hi Daniel, yes, the SafeAir one seems to have a plug with a streamer attached, my DIY one has a CCA-1550 <http://curtissuperiorvalve.com/pipethread.html> which you push and turn to lock open (not visible in my last picture as it it protruding on the bottom of my panel (below the alum. angle visible)). br Werner Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote: > > It is basically the same thing, breaking the static air line, just one > comes with a streamer to pull, or am I missing something? > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of > LarryRosen(at)comcast.net > Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 12:32 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX > > Safe Air 1 has a kit > But, I like Werner's approach better. > > Larry Rosen > #356 > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> > >> Hi Richard, >> >> hopefully attached, what I did (on a Glastar) a Curtis Drain Valve >> CCA-1550 together with a T and two elbows to fit the static line. >> >> And I did an inflight check, error is 4 KIAS to high indication. >> >> Werner >> >> Richard Reynolds wrote: >> >>> OK,I 'm sorry, apologize, etc. >>> >>> Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve >>> for superior crafted OBAM planes? >>> >>> Does anyone have a source or suggestion for the alternate air valve >>> like the "real" planes have? >>> >>> Richard Reynolds >>> >>> * >>> >>> >>> * >>> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: The RV Smile - continued
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Hi Bill, Apparently my earlier reply was garbled (was using my wife's computer), so I'll try again. I was very happy to be able to produce the "RV Grin". I thoroughly enjoy flying my RV-4 and will miss it when I sell it (can't afford to own it and the RV-10 both). Now you understand why RV's are such popular airplanes. The RV-10 doesn't fly like an RV-4, but it shouldn't - you don't need or want a cross country cruising airplane to roll at over 140 degrees per second. The RV-10 climbs as well or better than the RV-4 and is faster. Most important it is MUCH more comfortable on a trip. My wife is getting tired of staring at the back of my head whenever we travel in the -4. Now I've got to get cracking on the RV-10. You are way ahead of me - much more so than you should be since your kit was just 5 before mine. Jack Phillips RV-4 N18LR Pietenpol Air Camper NX899JP RV-10 kit # 40610 (N142KW reserved) Finishing the elevators -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 9:24 PM Subject: RV10-List: The RV Smile - continued On Saturday, January 27th, RV4 pilot Jack Phillips took RV10 builder, Bill Watson, for his first ride in an RV at Lake Ridge Airport, Durham NC. The aircraft performed as designed, the pilot flew the aircraft with a high degree proficiency, and an RV smile was firmly planted on both the face and mind of the passenger. A little stick time for the pedal-less rear seat passenger only served to deepen the smile. It has been noted that an RV10 doesn't fly like an RV4 (neither do Maules or Pietenpols for that matter). Nonetheless, riveting has resumed with increased vigor at the Lake Ridge birthplace of #40605. Thank You Jack Phillips for passing on the Smile. _________________________________________________ This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is prohibited. Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!
Dan, Please don't misconstrue what I meant...they have made some changes and are not offering the same concept as they began, that's all I meant to say...I'm sure they are ethical in their approach to helping the RV builder and other builders...as assistance. It seems to me they are now offering total assistance as compared to a "start" assistance before. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Dan, >> how can the FAA be expected to review the employment condition of every person that applies for an airworthiness certificate? << They probably can't, and I don't think they want to. >>and how much additional time will be added to the review/paperwork process? << Well, somebody needs to be looking closer. That will take more time but hopefully not much more. >>... I personally do not think that by having vendors on the committee, we the builders are being looked out for. << The committee co-chairs, Frank Paskiewicz (FAA), Van, and EAA's Earl Lawrence are tremendous builder's advocates. I hope I am too. There is a great respect for the tradition of homebuilding and the consequences of continuing the present course of action are not lost on us. >> who else is on the panel << Kim Barnette, FAA Flight Standards Service, AFS-300 Joe Bartels, Lancair Mike Brown, FAA Flight Standards Service, AFS-800 Stephen Buczynski, FAA Aircraft Certification, Van Nuys MIDO Paul Fiduccia, Small Aircraft Manufacturers Association (SAMA) Joe Gauthier, Manufacturing DAR Paul Greer, Airworthiness Law Branch, AGC-210 Donald Lausman, FAA Airworthiness Certification Branch, AIR-230 Dave Saylor, AirCrafters LLC Rick Schramek, Epic Aircraft Matt Tomsheck, FAA Aircraft Certification, Cleveland MIDO Mikael Via, Glasair Brian Whitehead, Transport Canada Civil Aviation Jeremy Monnett, Sonex Aircraft I welcome any input and will take it all in as we develop our recomendations. Of course we all have a stake in the game but I think this is a very well assembled group, well suited for the task at hand. We are meeting for the third time next week in Bend, OR. Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Question
Date: Feb 13, 2007
I am in the process of sealing the tanks and I have a question about the rubber seal on the fuel level senders. Are these just installed dry, are they lubed with fuellube, or are they sealed with ProSeal? Thanks, Mike Schipper #40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Tank Question
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: "Scott Schmidt" <sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com>
I put proseal on mine when I installed it. Scott Schmidt sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question I am in the process of sealing the tanks and I have a question about the rubber seal on the fuel level senders. Are these just installed dry, are they lubed with fuellube, or are they sealed with ProSeal? Thanks, Mike Schipper #40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
The advice I received at that stage was to use the rubber gasket and also apply ProSeal. The fuel tank design is similar to what Piper has and I kno w of an A&P who only used the gasket with no ProSeal in his Piper and has n o leaks. I used both, however, if I had to do it over I would only use the rubber gasket, as this avoids having to clean up the proseal if you ever h ave to replace the sending unit.=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A----- Original Mess age ----=0AFrom: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>=0ATo: rv10-list @matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 1:29:46 PM=0ASubject: RV1 Schipper =0A=0AI am in the process of sealing the tanks and I have a question about =0Athe rubber seal on the fuel level se nders. Are these just installed =0Adry, are they lubed with fuellube, or a re they sealed with ProSeal?=0A=0AThanks,=0AMike Schipper=0A#40576 - Wings ==== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Conduit Runs
Date: Feb 13, 2007
I'm in the process of running my conduit in the wings and am curious how much conduit I should leave extended beyond the outboard and inboard most ribs? Jeff Carpenter 40304 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Conduit Runs
Jeff, I left about an inch at the tip, this was plent to allow the wiring to go either forward or aft. After the wires left the conduit I secured them with a cushioned clamp on the tip rib. My root wiring is terminated at a 16 pin AMP barrel connector so my conduit terminates at the first rib inboard from the root rib and the wires go to the connector straight from there. If I was running wires right from the fuselage to the wing I would do it the same way as the tip, allow a nice service loop and secure to the root rib with cushion clamps. You would not need too much conduit left outside the rib, just enough to secure it to the rib and allow your wires to travel in your desired direction. I secured the conduit with red silicone prior to cutting it off with a hobby razor saw. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Panel Lettering
Those are some knarley looking graphics Ron...nice bright colors!! Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!
Thanks Bob, not in IL until some time this spring or early summer or I woul d have started the 10 in the fall...don't want to move any more for PA than I need to... P Since you are in IL, you may want to try Grov-Air in Indy. I ran into th e same issues. I wanted to go to Western PA RV Builders too and was disappointed that he stopped conducting the basic class. I attended a ses sion at Grov-Air in December. Troy has built a RV6 and is just finishing the wing s on his RV-10. He=99s also assisting several other builders in his s hop as well. He is also a former United A&P. Bob do not archive ____________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.co m Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:29 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! In a message dated 2/13/07 9:44:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jesse(at)saintaviation.com writes: <>> By the way, I've been in contact with the Western PA RV Builders for the past couple of years--thanks to Dan Checkaway's web site...I'd planned to g o to their facility and do their workshop...apparently they have changed directions. Now they are basically working to help people begin and complete their RV project. Originally it was my impression they were a workshop to try tools and for one to begin the process of the Rear Stab...apparently they are now mor e of a building shop and are booked through 2008...FYI. Patrick do not archive (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: unbelievable
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
I would like to thank Wally at synergy for the 10 day course which my wife and I enjoyed.I would also like to thank the paid workers in the philipines who built the majority of my wings and fuse.Not to mention lancair avionics for my panel.I for one do not want the feds looking over my shoulder deciding if i meet the 51% rule on my 7 project.When we sign our application for airwortiness we sign under penalty of perjury that the aircraft was amateur built for our own purposes.If there are those out there bending the rules and it doesnt effect safety so be it.This may result in safer aircraft.Note the new light sport allows owners to do there own maintanance after a weekend course.I will continue to build my own aircraft because it is cheaper than psycotherapy. ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Anyone have a photo/diagram of fuel routing?
I am looking for two pieces of information: 1. A photo(s) of the fuel lines between the tank and fuselage so I can see the routing there, and 2. A fuel routing diagram if anyone has one. I am trying to figure out where exactly I should put a fuel return in the tanks (Yes, I had my tanks done, and NOW I want a fuel return.... my bad!) I already have an inspection panel in the rear baffle like Dan Lloyd has. Thanks! -Jim 40384, I think I'm starting to love the smell of Proseal... Is that bad? :) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Rudder Trim
Date: Feb 13, 2007
For those that are flying or already installed the Vic Syracuse style rudder trim, I'm trying to determine the vertical placement of the hinge. If I center it on the rudder, the servo would have to go where the rib R-1010D is located. From looking at Vic's pictures, it appears that the hinge may be dropped down four or five inches from the center. I'm trying to determine the impact of the trim not being center on rudder. Is there any impact of if the trim hinge is lower on the rudder trailing edge? What height on the trailing edge of the rudder did you install the rudder? Thanks, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!)
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Jesse Saint wrote: > > Enter the "Two Weeks to Taxi" program. ...which falls under the "FAA blessed 'builder assistance centers'". The FAA has physically inspected the operation at the Glasair Aviation facility and approved the TWT program. I've personally talked to a Sportsman builder that lives nearby that went through the program. It is a VERY busy program, but there is no question in his mind (or in mine after talking to him) that the builder does more than 51% of the operations required by the FAA, and it is well documented so there should not be any problem obtaining the repairman certificate. I was seriously considering the TWT program at one time, and did a lot of personal research on it. There may be some "questionable" builder assist centers out there, but I don't think the TWT program is one of them. -Dj ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve- REDUX
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Try the alt air valve used on a Cirrus SR-20, which can be purchased from a dealer. Part # is long forgotten, but it was about $20. It's plastic, light weight, and has a large lever on it. The lever and valve are two different part #s, if I recall correctly. You can mount it with an Adel clamp. Marc -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94905#94905 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: A&P willing to do annual condition inspection, pre-buy
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2007
Do we anticipate a problem with the RV-10 in the aftermarket? Is there something peculiar about this plane that will prevent certificated mechanics from inspecting or repairing them? I agree that some A&P's will be unwilling - I heard there are shops that WILL NOT work on anything older than 18 years because of liability issues but I believe free market forces will take affect and mechanics will step up to meet demand. Paul #40203 , getting ready to prime/paint interior fuse and tail ############################################ "................As a follow-on to that theory, if the buyer doesn't hold any certificate, then their plane will need to be inspected by an A&P....something that some A&P's may not even be willing to do unless it meets very high standards. In fact, A&P's could be specifically *required* to hold all homebuilts to some very high standards. That would put a crimp in the urge for some buyers to try to buy a ready-made-homebuilt....and instead favor them buying a certified bird. But it helps us by keeping that insurance from rising due to someone who doesn't know the airframe doing improper maintenance. ############################################### Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94914#94914 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Question
Date: Feb 13, 2007
We generally use the rubber seal and then proseal around a little after it is installed. The main reason is to make it easier to remove and fix, replace, tweak or whatever. I'm not saying it will never leak this way, but it is in a place that would be easy to detect a leak and would be easy to fix if there were a leak. Either way works, though. I don't know that they will ever have to be replaced or fixed or tweaked, but there is a chance. Anything that can come apart eventually will come apart for service, IMHO. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Schmidt Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 2:09 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question I put proseal on mine when I installed it. Scott Schmidt sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Schipper Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:30 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Tank Question I am in the process of sealing the tanks and I have a question about the rubber seal on the fuel level senders. Are these just installed dry, are they lubed with fuellube, or are they sealed with ProSeal? Thanks, Mike Schipper #40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com -- 1:23 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Conduit Runs
Date: Feb 14, 2007
I wouldn't leave any more than you need to possibly put something on to keep it from receding. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Carpenter Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 5:44 PM Subject: RV10-List: Conduit Runs I'm in the process of running my conduit in the wings and am curious how much conduit I should leave extended beyond the outboard and inboard most ribs? Jeff Carpenter 40304 -- 1:23 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 14, 2007
http://www.asapmachineryrepair.com/airvalves2.htm I put a similar 3 port valve in my panel. It is simple, accessible, and easy to use. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94958#94958 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2007
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
To bad they need a $75.00 min order. Looks like a good solutin to the alternate air problem. steveadams wrote: > > http://www.asapmachineryrepair.com/airvalves2.htm > > I put a similar 3 port valve in my panel. It is simple, accessible, and easy to use. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94958#94958 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!)
I think that we're making this too complicated, it's clear to me what the purpose and intent if the 51% rule is. I believe it to be a generous rule. i.e. it could have been 100% or 75% or ? It's also clear to me that the 3 week to taxi programs notwithstanding the FAA's review/tacit approval go way beyond the purpose and intent of the 51% rule. there is NO WAY that in 504 hours (3 sleepless weeks) you can build and debug a safe airplane. Judging what is 51% is clearly discretionary. IMO that should be left up to the DAR. If there is a dispute it could be appealed, just like a medical review issue. Seems to me we have the regulations we just need to enable an enforcement of them. IF someone believes that there is a need for an additional Category of certificating, let them petition for it separately similar to the LSA. Don't screw up the existing Experimental class by bastardizing it to accommodate a segment of the market that wants to fit in between the price/performance of fully certified aircraft and run under the guise of being Experimental. These people have more time than money. Let them spend their money wisely and let the insurance underwriters price the risk accordingly as the history develops. Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2007
Subject: unbelievable!!!
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
=0A=0AJohn, =0A=0AAm I misunderstanding something here or are you planning to do the very same thing that you suggest the FAA should step in and legislate?- I though I heard you say this before which is why I w as taken aback when you suggested that the FAA should "clamp down" on these "hired guns."- Is your version of the "shotgun" to offer you advantage b ecause you have been and are accustomed to dealing with the FAA for so long ?=0A=0AWilliam=0Ahttp://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ =0A=0A---------- ------------------------------=0A=0AReturn-Path: Tue Feb 13 17:26:51 2007=0A---- --------------------- - --------------------------------------------------=0AX-Rcpt-To: =0A=0A Dan, you are right there are great shops.- B ut respectfully, you have not seen the Build Assists which allow the owner to drink coffee (hour after hour, days on end, week after week) and watch w hile the paid staff does the work.- Then at the end of the day, they prep the "Builder" in how to explain what was done. - I don't consider you na=EFve, I just think you are a bit Wide Eyed and innocent in the ways of 5 1% violations in today's lucrative market. - By the way, I have every i ntention of setting up shop just as soon as the rules are clarified.- I d o have a dog in this hunt and would be just as happy if the Build Assist re quired FAA monitoring for violation and financial penalties.- When going into a street fight, you don't bring a knife when the other guy has a knife you bring a shotgun - Sean Connery. - =0A=0AJohn=0A=0ADo not Archive =0A----------------------------------------=0A From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matro nics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.=0ASent: Tuesday, February 13, 20 07 8:03 AM=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: un believable!!! - Knowing everyone from down there, this could not be far ther from the truth. The NWPA shop is there to give new builders an introdu ction to metal kit plane building, specifically the RV series. They are gre at people, and do not bend the rules, they help the new builder complete th e emp, and give the builder a solid foundation in correct building practice s and the builder gets to try multiple tools while under instruction. But t o make it clear, it is the builder that does the construction, the shop wil l-HELP, not do,-with the priming and deburring but the builder is doing the majority of the work. This shop is well organized and highly recommend ed by other builders in the area. This is a great way to complete an emp in 7 days and get a solid footing to finish your project. Remember, I do not have an affiliation with them, just know them from being in the area, and highly respecting their efforts for the building community. Dan N289DT ======== =0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
Date: Feb 14, 2007
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
This is super cool. Can you give details? Which part number? did you use the 10-32 threaded one? the MTV-3? I think I want my mtv. And some more info! Thanks cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steveadams Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 5:49 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve http://www.asapmachineryrepair.com/airvalves2.htm I put a similar 3 port valve in my panel. It is simple, accessible, and easy to use. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94958#94958 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: unbelievable!!!)
Date: Feb 14, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Kevin, an excellent assessment but one where you presented a conflict. "Let's have no more new restrictive regulations; Let's create some new regulations for hired guns". For anyone who has not already deleted the read on this topic, you will need to understand exactly what led to the Federal order of review on the 51% rule. Regulations by their nature are RESTRICTIVE. They neither encourage nor promote General Aviation except for the possible exception of increasing operational safety. A Florida gun slinger was jealous of Rick Schramech (of Nevada) inventing a computer conceived, Lancair IV on steroids (The Epic), which could carry 6 POB and use a recycled and mothballed PT-6 powerplant from the former Beech Starship. Rick successfully obtained Oregon Lottery dollars, similar to the same source of dollars that VAN used to move from Forest Grove, OR to Aurora, OR and expand his operations for all of us. Dr. Carl Cadwell, a Pacific NW builder and operator of a Lancair IVP, plucked down the money (more than a million)and brought a team of friends over to build the dreamship in the Epic LT facility in Bend, OR. They thoroughly documented that it was an OBAM project and fully compliant with the existing 51% rule. The jealous Kit Manufacturer in Florida could see where this was going - he called attorneys, he called politicians, he called the EAA and the FAA. Techniques have improved, fast build kits have become a way of completion. This is no longer a fabric and wood industry or a steel tube and simple VFR putter. The list of 51% tasks and those things not considered became Obsolete. Wannabe Builders with money have motivation to fly. Builders with experience and desire for money want to build for profit. No it is not for their education, enjoyment or flying. Electronic Gee Whiz and composite construction along with feature comforts have left Spam Can manufacturers scrambling. The regulations exist today. Produce more than one, get a Production Certificate. Make the second, third and beyond, get a TC. Subject it to production testing, spend millions, invest years, hope people will spend the exorbitant inflated cost - then wait for the market to respond. And oh how it does. The problem has become so perverse that Schrameck has built a major production facility in Canada, a country whose lawyers have not yet totally distorted this pursuit. The Carnahan lawsuit shocked manufacturers. The Lycoming crankcase lawsuit has not helped. In the US of A, you can operate under the radar screen and twist the intent all you want. Get attention, even with one single builder, Dr. Cadwell and the rest is where we are going next week and next month. IMHO, I don't think we need more or new regs. I think as long as the dynamic for gain is present we need to tighten the ability of DARs to grant airworthiness certificates to the violators. Ethics, honesty and intent get distorted due to the large sums a gunslinger can make. I think the OBAM rules should be for single individuals and can identify those who are making multiple copies for gain. Now at this juncture in time it is the manufacturers of kits who are the majority on the committee who will determine Chapter 2 - stay tuned. Oh by the way. Dr. Cadwell is selling his pristine Lancair IVP, won his lawsuit, got his Epic approved under OBAM and is thrilled with the rules that allow him to "Live his Dream". Live your's too, build it yourself. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James K Hovis Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:57 AM Subject: Re: factory built RVs (wasRe: RV10-List: unbelievable!!!) Let me say up front, I think the 51% rule is good and needs to continue as is so those of us who WANT to build a good airplane can continue to do so. Perhaps the key to all this is what reasonable level of Federal oversight can be tolerated without damaging the industry, but keeping the bad players from totally ruining it as stated by others (insurance rates, etc.). Most aircraft experimenters come into the process with an idea (I hope) of what is expected and a willingness to get their hands dirty. By putting in the sweat equity, they deserve the benefits of ownership of their creations such as a fine machine no spam-can company has been willing to take the time and money to develop for the last several years and reduced future maintenance costs. However, I think there is a segment of the population out there that looks at the offerings in the experimental / kitplane market and just drool, but they have NO desire or time to put in the sweat equity needed to get the benefits. That's where the shady operations are getting customers and where the FAA and the 51% committee should focus its efforts. The FAA is somewhat in a quandary, it has a mandate to promote aviation while at the same time protect the safety of the general public. Sometimes those two mandates conflict with each other. I think we can all agree we don't want to see crapily built aircraft out there, but keeping those airplanes out of the air may result in over-regulation that'll kill off a significant portion of the industry. Perhaps a re-shuffling of the regulations might come out that keeps the 51% rule intact for the true builder working for his own education and recreation with the goal of long-term ownership of his creation. Also, let's look at "builder assist". If the guy who bought the kit is actually getting his hands dirty, but having someone looking over the shoulder and helping with rivet bucking etc., he probably should qualify for an "Experimental -Amateur-Built" airworthiness certificate and then a repairman's cert after the project is done. This seems to me is what Jesse's working on and getting the Feds to review. The "pros" doing the help is what maybe the Feds need to review, maybe something similar to a repair station certification. What needs to be addressed is what I mentioned in the first paragraph, that segment of the market who wants to circumvent the 51% rule. Here I suggest a new category for airworthiness that will satisfy the market and help the FAA in performing its two prime mandates. Why can't rules be set-up that would allow a kitplane owner "Joe Sixbanger" to buy a kit from someone like Van's, drop-ship it to, let's say "Bud's Airplane Shop", and "Bud's" crew of aviation professionals build the ship for a fee and get it ready for DAR review and delivery to "Joe"? This would qualify for that new category - "Experimental - Commercial Built". And in order to qualify for "Commercial Build" cert., the shop would have to comply with a set of regulations that maybe falls somewhere in between Production Cert under part 21 and a repair station. But, "Joe" in no way qualifies for a repairman's cert., the airplane would need inspection just like any TC ship. In order to eliminate the danger behind something like the subject aircraft that started this thread, when the DAR reviews the build, he also reviews any deviations from the published kit specs supplied by the original designer and will only sign off if "Bud's" shows that there is legitimate engineering justification behind the modifications. This proposal doesn't require any change nor has any affect on the real home-builder. I'm afraid trying to eliminate the "hired-guns", will end up hurting the entire homebuilt aviation industry. The market is there for the hired-gun, so maybe we should embrace it. Afterall, more good quality kitplanes flying will only help the insurance pool too. Kevin Hovis. RV-10 in the future.... ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 14, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
I am the first that I know of that took a career sabbatical course change, attended A & P school in my time off at 53. Took a job with a World class Regional Airline to learn ropes with 20 and 25 year veterans (who mostly are younger than I)_ and intends to take my 23 years as a DPE and 30+ years as an instructor to a new arena. Living in the heart of Kit Aviation helps with Oregon Aero, EI, VANS, Lancair, Mountain High, OP Technologies, Epic, Max Viz, Artex, UPS now Garmin. I waited a decade for the FAA to change the 60 year old "You are Dead as a Professional Airline Pilot" rule. I intend to serve as an A & P mechanic with IA designation - Long Term, become a respected EAA tech advisor for decades and gain the wisdom and respect of someone like Joe Gauthier. I intend to construct and manage a Builder Assist Facility that is world class in scope and is compliant with the Next Generation of rule interpretation. Yes I was spurred on by all of the former Lancair Employees who without A & P certificates would ask six figures to produce those beautiful flying machines. I have more than fifty frustrated career airline mechanics (from a pool of over 400) who would love to moonlight on an hourly basis and bring their World Class experience in Hydraulics, Avionics, Electrical Distribution, Sheet Metal, Composites, Interiors and yes Topcoat Painting to the OBAM world. Dick VanGrunsven does not see the benefit in what Joe Bartels has accomplished with Lancair Factory Assist... so be it. Risk Aversion has its merits. If you want to build it in your garage by yourself, so be it. Post it on Tim's site so we can all enjoy in your dream. 5,000 aircraft build. Hit me over the head. I am just not going to do it by circumventing the intent of the Regs. Will I build for solely for a paycheck? No way, would I love to assist scores of others, You bet. Have I seen what a few reckless individuals can do to scores of builders, not yet completed, when they skew the insurance underwriters guidelines, you bet. Do I encourage High Performance Proficiency Training like Deem's presented. YOU BET. Where we go from here is totally dependent on what you as builders ask of your committee, respond to the NPRM and tell your elected officials what you want. You are going to get it your way or you are going to get screwed. The laws of physics acknowledge that this mass is growing and IS in motion. Before I invest the hundreds of thousands in the infrastructure, the dust from that whiner in Florida is going to need a long-term published resolution. So far, I have about 6,000 hours invested in Living my Dream. It began long before VAN made that first Prototype flight in the RV-10. The RV-10 is just the finest platform to realize my dream. The road traveled includes a Christen Eagle wood, tube and fabric project, a composite Lancair project and now the best of all worlds the RV-10. And yes my 60'x48'x14' hangar was just completed last week so it is time to challenge Deems' prognosis of a completion date of 2020 before kit 1,000 is finished. William you are mistaken if you think I encourage hired gun OBAM production. I envision something more lofty like what Dan Checkoway has done after building only his first kit. He is now an Expert, an Author, an Instructor and is "Helping others Live their Dreams". You would be in error to confuse me with the other John in Oklahoma. John Cox #40600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 11:38 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! John, Am I misunderstanding something here or are you planning to do the very same thing that you suggest the FAA should step in and legislate? I though I heard you say this before which is why I was taken aback when you suggested that the FAA should "clamp down" on these "hired guns." Is your version of the "shotgun" to offer you advantage because you have been and are accustomed to dealing with the FAA for so long? William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: unbelievable!!!
Date: Feb 14, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Oh yeh, do I need to remind all of you RV-10 builders that you are the youngest, strongest most respected 800 pound Gorillas on the world's playground. I just want to live quietly being a Great Silver in my Ole Age in the lush, rich Rain Forest of the Pacific NW. Happy Valentines... treat your partner right tonight. Celebrate 5,000 flying RVs - together. John Cox the Turbanator #40600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 6:02 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! I am the first that I know of that took a career sabbatical course change, attended A & P school in my time off at 53. Took a job with a World class Regional Airline to learn ropes with 20 and 25 year veterans (who mostly are younger than I)_ and intends to take my 23 years as a DPE and 30+ years as an instructor to a new arena. Living in the heart of Kit Aviation helps with Oregon Aero, EI, VANS, Lancair, Mountain High, OP Technologies, Epic, Max Viz, Artex, UPS now Garmin. I waited a decade for the FAA to change the 60 year old "You are Dead as a Professional Airline Pilot" rule. I intend to serve as an A & P mechanic with IA designation - Long Term, become a respected EAA tech advisor for decades and gain the wisdom and respect of someone like Joe Gauthier. I intend to construct and manage a Builder Assist Facility that is world class in scope and is compliant with the Next Generation of rule interpretation. Yes I was spurred on by all of the former Lancair Employees who without A & P certificates would ask six figures to produce those beautiful flying machines. I have more than fifty frustrated career airline mechanics (from a pool of over 400) who would love to moonlight on an hourly basis and bring their World Class experience in Hydraulics, Avionics, Electrical Distribution, Sheet Metal, Composites, Interiors and yes Topcoat Painting to the OBAM world. Dick VanGrunsven does not see the benefit in what Joe Bartels has accomplished with Lancair Factory Assist... so be it. Risk Aversion has its merits. If you want to build it in your garage by yourself, so be it. Post it on Tim's site so we can all enjoy in your dream. 5,000 aircraft build. Hit me over the head. I am just not going to do it by circumventing the intent of the Regs. Will I build for solely for a paycheck? No way, would I love to assist scores of others, You bet. Have I seen what a few reckless individuals can do to scores of builders, not yet completed, when they skew the insurance underwriters guidelines, you bet. Do I encourage High Performance Proficiency Training like Deem's presented. YOU BET. Where we go from here is totally dependent on what you as builders ask of your committee, respond to the NPRM and tell your elected officials what you want. You are going to get it your way or you are going to get screwed. The laws of physics acknowledge that this mass is growing and IS in motion. Before I invest the hundreds of thousands in the infrastructure, the dust from that whiner in Florida is going to need a long-term published resolution. So far, I have about 6,000 hours invested in Living my Dream. It began long before VAN made that first Prototype flight in the RV-10. The RV-10 is just the finest platform to realize my dream. The road traveled includes a Christen Eagle wood, tube and fabric project, a composite Lancair project and now the best of all worlds the RV-10. And yes my 60'x48'x14' hangar was just completed last week so it is time to challenge Deems' prognosis of a completion date of 2020 before kit 1,000 is finished. William you are mistaken if you think I encourage hired gun OBAM production. I envision something more lofty like what Dan Checkoway has done after building only his first kit. He is now an Expert, an Author, an Instructor and is "Helping others Live their Dreams". You would be in error to confuse me with the other John in Oklahoma. John Cox #40600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 11:38 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: unbelievable!!! John, Am I misunderstanding something here or are you planning to do the very same thing that you suggest the FAA should step in and legislate? I though I heard you say this before which is why I was taken aback when you suggested that the FAA should "clamp down" on these "hired guns." Is your version of the "shotgun" to offer you advantage because you have been and are accustomed to dealing with the FAA for so long? William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
Date: Feb 14, 2007
I was intrigued as well, so a little searching and I found this: http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MTV-2P 1/8" NPT on the back. That should make a really nice alternate air source selector. Price: less than 12 bucks. Mike Schipper #40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com On Feb 14, 2007, at 4:53 PM, Chris Johnston wrote: > > > This is super cool. Can you give details? Which part number? did > you > use the 10-32 threaded one? the MTV-3? I think I want my mtv. And > some more info! > > Thanks > cj > > #40410 > fuse > www.perfectlygoodairplane.net > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steveadams > Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 5:49 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve > > > > http://www.asapmachineryrepair.com/airvalves2.htm > > I put a similar 3 port valve in my panel. It is simple, accessible, > and > easy to use. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94958#94958 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 14, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
Here is the clippard catalog <http://www.clippard.com/downloads/general/PDF_Documents/2006%20Catalog/Catalog%20by%20Section/2-Way%20Control%20Valves.pdf> I was thinking the TV-2SP $9.03 or $9.85 with epdm seals. But the catch $5 handling and $10 shipping. $25 makes a pretty slick alternate air set up. Larry Michael Schipper wrote: > > > I was intrigued as well, so a little searching and I found this: > > http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MTV-2P > > 1/8" NPT on the back. That should make a really nice alternate air > source selector. Price: less than 12 bucks. > > Mike Schipper > #40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com > > > On Feb 14, 2007, at 4:53 PM, Chris Johnston wrote: > >> >> >> This is super cool. Can you give details? Which part number? did you >> use the 10-32 threaded one? the MTV-3? I think I want my mtv. And >> some more info! >> >> Thanks >> cj >> >> #40410 >> fuse >> www.perfectlygoodairplane.net >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of steveadams >> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 5:49 AM >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve >> >> >> http://www.asapmachineryrepair.com/airvalves2.htm >> >> I put a similar 3 port valve in my panel. It is simple, accessible, and >> easy to use. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=94958#94958 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Paul Walter" <pdwalter(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Oil access pannel
Date: Feb 15, 2007
Some time back there was a post that told where onecould purchase a flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would you please give me details of the provider. Thank you P.Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Introduction To List - Thanks & Spreadsheet
Date: Feb 15, 2007
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Jim, I may have missed it in the disussion but insurance is another consideration. The -10 will probably be significantly more expensive to insure; fortunately you get to split that cost too. On the other side one day you will sell your plane. More likely sooner rather than later when in a partnership. If you choose to build a -10 I suspect that you will see more of your initial "investment" back from a -10 than a fully loaded -7(A). (IMHO) Robin RV-4 Sold Flying RV-6A 325 Hours RV-10 in pieces I have an unlimited budget & I expect to exceed it. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Sun-N-Fun
Date: Feb 15, 2007
I plan on attending in N710RV. Russ Daves ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
From: "LarryRosen" <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 15, 2007
Hartwell latches are what most would use. They are not the Cessna style, which have a push button. Hartwell latches are used on Cirrus, Columbia and others. The most economical way to get them surplus at an air show. Here is a link to them at aircraft spruce. -------- Larry Rosen #40356 N205EN (reserved) <http> Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-223#95223 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Sun-N-Fun
From: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade(at)msdeltawireless.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2007
Julie and I will be coming to Sun & Fun in our RV-10 N369JW. We will be camping in the Homebuilt camping area. Not sure what days, will let the weather dictate that. Jim 40383 60 Hrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-225#95225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Static Air System - Alternate Air Valve
From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Feb 15, 2007
CJohnston(at)popsound.com wrote: > This is super cool. Can you give details? Which part number? did you > use the 10-32 threaded one? the MTV-3? I think I want my mtv. And > some more info! > > Thanks > cj > > #40410 > fuse > www.perfectlygoodairplane.net > > -- Mine actually came with my kit (no, I'm not an RV-10 builder), and I'm sure that you can get one cheaper from one of the suppliers listed above. Mine has 2 threaded fittings (static line in and static line out), and an unthreaded opening. In the normal position pressure from the static port just passes through the valve. In the alternate position, the line out is opened to cabin pressure. You could probably also use a valve with a single threaded fitting and T it into the static line. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-228#95228 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/alt_static_2_670.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/alt_static_691.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
Date: Feb 15, 2007
Paul, If you are referring to the Hartwell latches, you can get them from Wicks: http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1456/ index.html Mike Schipper #40576 - Tanks - www.rvten.com On Feb 14, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Paul Walter wrote: > Some time back there was a post that told where onecould purchase > a flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would > you please give me details of the provider. > > Thank you > > P.Walter > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_- > ============================================================ _- > forums.matronics.com_- > =========================================================== > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
Date: Feb 15, 2007
Skybolt camlocs work well. Mark >From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 10:25:19 -0600 > >Paul, > >If you are referring to the Hartwell latches, you can get them from Wicks: > >http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1456/ index.html > >Mike Schipper >#40576 - Tanks - www.rvten.com > > >On Feb 14, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Paul Walter wrote: > >>Some time back there was a post that told where onecould purchase a >>flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would you >>please give me details of the provider. >> >>Thank you >> >>P.Walter >> >>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_- >>============================================================ _- >>forums.matronics.com_- >>=========================================================== >> > _________________________________________________________________ FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and sell with people you know ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave & Brenda Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
Date: Feb 15, 2007
I would advise regular checks of the gaskets, should you choose to go the route of gaskets only. I would hate anyone to suffer the problems I experienced. The gaskets appeared to react with the fuel and swelled. I originally decided against proseal, and went with gaskets only. After developing fuel leaks on both tanks, I have subsequently removed the gaskets and have used proseal on both sender units. Proseal does provide a more permanent fix, with less chance of a fuel leak. Dave Emond 40159 Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2007
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
I noticed Skybolt has a camloc set for the RV10 cowl. Has anyone installed these? Do they work well?=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Original Messag e ----=0AFrom: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com>=0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.c om=0ASent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 12:25:07 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List =0A=0ASkybolt camlocs work well.=0A=0AMark=0A=0A=0A=0A =0A>From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>=0A>Reply-To: rv10-list (at)matronics.com=0A>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oi l access pannel=0A>Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 10:25:19 -0600=0A>=0A>Paul,=0A> =0A>If you are referring to the Hartwell latches, you can get them from Wi cks:=0A>=0A>http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=14 56/ index.html=0A>=0A>Mike Schipper=0A>#40576 - Tanks - www.rvten.com=0A> =0A>=0A>=0A>On Feb 14, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Paul Walter wrote:=0A>=0A>>Some t ime back there was a post that told where onecould purchase a =0A>>flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would you =0A>>please give me details of the provider.=0A>>=0A>>Thank you=0A>>=0A>>P.Walter=0A>> =0A>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_- =0A>>====== ==== _- =0A>>forums.matronics.com_- =0A>>======== ===0A>>=0A>=0A=0A______________________________________________________ ___________=0AFREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo ' buy and se ========= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
Date: Feb 15, 2007
I used the Skybolt camlocs around the fuselage to avoid having to push the piano wire around the curves and piano hinges between the upper and lower cowls. The camlocs worked great. Mark >From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 12:35:18 -0800 (PST) > >I noticed Skybolt has a camloc set for the RV10 cowl. Has anyone installed >these? Do they work well? > >Niko >40188 > > >----- Original Message ---- >From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 12:25:07 PM >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > >Skybolt camlocs work well. > >Mark > > > >From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 10:25:19 -0600 > > > >Paul, > > > >If you are referring to the Hartwell latches, you can get them from >Wicks: > > > >http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1456/ >index.html > > > >Mike Schipper > >#40576 - Tanks - www.rvten.com > > > > > > > >On Feb 14, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Paul Walter wrote: > > > >>Some time back there was a post that told where onecould purchase a > >>flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would you > >>please give me details of the provider. > >> > >>Thank you > >> > >>P.Walter > >> > >>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List_- > >>========== _- > >>forums.matronics.com_- > >>========= > >> > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and se========= _________________________________________________________________ Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2007
From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
Mark,=0A=0ADo you have any pictures of your mounting you can share with the group?=0A=0ANiko=0A40188=0A=0A=0A----- Original Message ----=0AFrom: Mark Ritter =0ATo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 4:54:28 PM=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel >=0A=0AI used the Skybolt camlocs around the fuselage to avoid having to pu sh the =0Apiano wire around the curves and piano hinges between the upper a nd lower =0Acowls. The camlocs worked great.=0A=0AMark=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A>From : Niko =0A>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A>To: rv1 0-list(at)matronics.com=0A>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel=0A>Date: set for the RV10 cowl. Has anyone installed =0A>these? Do they work well ?=0A>=0A>Niko=0A>40188=0A>=0A>=0A>----- Original Message ----=0A>From: Mark Ritter =0A>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A>Sent: Thursd ay, February 15, 2007 12:25:07 PM=0A>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pan sn.com>=0A>=0A>Skybolt camlocs work well.=0A>=0A>Mark=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> > From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>=0A> >Reply-To: rv10-list@m atronics.com=0A> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com=0A> >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel=0A> >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 10:25:19 -0600=0A> >=0A> >Pau l,=0A> >=0A> >If you are referring to the Hartwell latches, you can get the m from =0A>Wicks:=0A> >=0A> >http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_ cat.php/subid=1456/ =0A>index.html=0A> >=0A> >Mike Schipper=0A> >#40576 - Tanks - www.rvten.com=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >=0A> >On Feb 14, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Paul Walter wrote:=0A> >=0A> >>Some time back there was a post that told w here onecould purchase a=0A> >>flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oi l access panel. Would you=0A> >>please give me details of the provider.=0A > >>=0A> >>Thank you=0A> >>=0A> >>P.Walter=0A> >>=0A> >>http://www.matronic =0A>_________________________________________________________________=0A>FR EE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo ' buy and se===== ======0A=0A______________________________________________________ ___________=0AInvite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with W ======= ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The McGough Family" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Front wheel spat
Date: Feb 16, 2007
Did anyone have a problem with the dimentions of fitting front wheel spat. I have measured and rechecked and I cant get that spat to fit as per drawings. >From axle to rear of spat it says 20 5/32 but I am at least 2 inches from that. I have trimmed where thay say at the top. Also to get the verticle 8 5/32 mesure right I have to take that spacer out on the tyre to be able to lower the front down enough? I am wondering if they ave sent the wrong spat. Chris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
Date: Feb 15, 2007
I'll go to work on getting the pictures. Mark >From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 14:47:22 -0800 (PST) > >Mark, > >Do you have any pictures of your mounting you can share with the group? > >Niko >40188 > > >----- Original Message ---- >From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 4:54:28 PM >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > >I used the Skybolt camlocs around the fuselage to avoid having to push the >piano wire around the curves and piano hinges between the upper and lower >cowls. The camlocs worked great. > >Mark > > > >From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 12:35:18 -0800 (PST) > > > >I noticed Skybolt has a camloc set for the RV10 cowl. Has anyone >installed > >these? Do they work well? > > > >Niko > >40188 > > > > > >----- Original Message ---- > >From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 12:25:07 PM > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > > > > > > >Skybolt camlocs work well. > > > >Mark > > > > > > > > > > >From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> > > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 10:25:19 -0600 > > > > > >Paul, > > > > > >If you are referring to the Hartwell latches, you can get them from > >Wicks: > > > > > >http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1456/ > >index.html > > > > > >Mike Schipper > > >#40576 - Tanks - www.rvten.com > > > > > > > > > > > >On Feb 14, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Paul Walter wrote: > > > > > >>Some time back there was a post that told where onecould purchase a > > >>flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would you > > >>please give me details of the provider. > > >> > > >>Thank you > > >> > > >>P.Walter > > >> > > >>http://www.matronic > >_________________________________________________________________ > >FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and se========= > >_________________________________________________________________ >Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with W======= _________________________________________________________________ Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with Windows Live Spaces ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The McGough Family" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Front wheel spat
Date: Feb 16, 2007
Problem solved .....I was measuring against the curve instead of perpendicular. Moral of the story dont do measurements when its stinking hot and the humidity is just about raining in the shed! Anyway simple mistake.......never had that problem on the 6 Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "The McGough Family" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 10:27 AM Subject: RV10-List: Front wheel spat > > Did anyone have a problem with the dimentions of fitting front wheel spat. > I have measured and rechecked and I cant get that spat to fit as per > drawings. >>From axle to rear of spat it says 20 5/32 but I am at least 2 inches from > that. I have trimmed where thay say at the top. > Also to get the verticle 8 5/32 mesure right I have to take that spacer > out on the tyre to be able to lower the front down enough? > I am wondering if they ave sent the wrong spat. > > Chris > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mark Ritter" <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannel
Date: Feb 15, 2007
Niko, This is the best I can come up tonight. I used 1 3/4" .063 strip around the fuse to mount the camloc recepticles. I believe you could use .050 which would bend around the curves much easier. The cutouts between the recepticles reduce weight and make bending the tabs down to fit the slope of the cowling much easier. Mark N410MR >From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 14:47:22 -0800 (PST) > >Mark, > >Do you have any pictures of your mounting you can share with the group? > >Niko >40188 > > >----- Original Message ---- >From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 4:54:28 PM >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > >I used the Skybolt camlocs around the fuselage to avoid having to push the >piano wire around the curves and piano hinges between the upper and lower >cowls. The camlocs worked great. > >Mark > > > >From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 12:35:18 -0800 (PST) > > > >I noticed Skybolt has a camloc set for the RV10 cowl. Has anyone >installed > >these? Do they work well? > > > >Niko > >40188 > > > > > >----- Original Message ---- > >From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 12:25:07 PM > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > > > > > > >Skybolt camlocs work well. > > > >Mark > > > > > > > > > > >From: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> > > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 10:25:19 -0600 > > > > > >Paul, > > > > > >If you are referring to the Hartwell latches, you can get them from > >Wicks: > > > > > >http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1456/ > >index.html > > > > > >Mike Schipper > > >#40576 - Tanks - www.rvten.com > > > > > > > > > > > >On Feb 14, 2007, at 11:33 PM, Paul Walter wrote: > > > > > >>Some time back there was a post that told where onecould purchase a > > >>flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would you > > >>please give me details of the provider. > > >> > > >>Thank you > > >> > > >>P.Walter > > >> > > >>http://www.matronic > >_________________________________________________________________ > >FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and se========= > >_________________________________________________________________ >Invite your Hotmail contacts to join your friends list with W======= _________________________________________________________________ Want a degree but can't afford to quit? Top school degrees online - in as fast as 1 year http://forms.nextag.com/goto.jsp?url=/serv/main/buyer/education.jsp?doSearch=n&tm=y&search=education_text_links_88_h288c&s=4079&p=5116 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Camlocs (was Oil access pannel)
Vic use Cam locs on his 10. I have some photos of his plane from Sun-N-Fun posted here <http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/SunNFun_2006/Vic%20RV10/index.html> These only show them from the exterior. Some installation photos I have been sent from other builders including Mark's are here <.http://lrosen.nerv10.com/Construct/camloc/index.html> Jeff's RV-7a site has some good cam loc info <http://jeffsrv-7a.com/ENGINE.htm> about 1/2 way down in the Cowling Section. Larry #356 Niko wrote: > Mark, > > Do you have any pictures of your mounting you can share with the group? > > Niko > 40188 > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 4:54:28 PM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > > > I used the Skybolt camlocs around the fuselage to avoid having to push > the > piano wire around the curves and piano hinges between the upper and lower > cowls. The camlocs worked great. > > Mark > > > >From: Niko <owl40188(at)yahoo.com> > >Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV10-List: Oil access pannel > >Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 12:35:18 -0800 (PST) > > > >I noticed Skybolt has a camloc set for the RV10 cowl. Has anyone > installed > >these? Do they work well? > > > >Niko > >40188 > > > * > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
Agreed. A cheap and readily available substitute is to cut a scrap piece of plexi to the desired width, wrap one end with ball of duct tape, and grind the other end to a nice sharp point. Gets dull, grind a little more. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Oil access pannelOil access pannel
Date: Feb 16, 2007
I also installed the Sky Bolt cam locks and I just looked up the invoice for them. They have an RV10 kit that I bought and it was 438.68. But because of the spacing I used I had to buy more cam locks. That was another $132. I also had to buy a com lock tool for about $50. So that adds up to about $620 total. I like I how they turned out also. But time will tell how it works out. These are adjustable cam locks so as they become loose over time you can tighten them up. Wayne Edgerton #40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net>
Subject: Re: Camlocs (was Oil access pannel)
Date: Feb 16, 2007
If any of you want photos of the cam lock install just let me know and I can forward them to you. Wayne Edgerton #40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2007
From: Perry Casson-home <pcasson(at)sasktel.net>
Subject: Oil access panel
This hinge with a pair or Hartwell latches looks pretty nice: http://www.justrvparts.com/Oil%20Door%20Hidden%20Hinge.htm Perry Casson _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Walter Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 11:33 PM Subject: RV10-List: Oil access pannel Some time back there was a post that told where onecould purchase a flush moumted Cessna type latch for the oil access panel. Would you please give me details of the provider. Thank you P.Walter ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Camlocs (was Oil access pannel)
Date: Feb 16, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
I would like them and I am sure many others would too. Can you send them to Tim and he can post them under the mods section? Tim is this good? Dan N289DT _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:40 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Camlocs (was Oil access pannel) If any of you want photos of the cam lock install just let me know and I can forward them to you. Wayne Edgerton #40336 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Camlocs (was Oil access pannel)
Date: Feb 16, 2007
I would like to see the pics. Did you use hinges on one side and camlocks? Jim > > From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> > Date: 2007/02/16 Fri AM 10:17:08 EST > To: > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Camlocs (was Oil access pannel) > > I would like them and I am sure many others would too. Can you send them > to Tim and he can post them under the mods section? > Tim is this good? > Dan > N289DT > > _____ > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne > Edgerton > Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:40 AM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Camlocs (was Oil access pannel) > > > If any of you want photos of the cam lock install just let me know and I > can forward them to you. > > Wayne Edgerton #40336 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fuel Guardian
Date: Feb 16, 2007
From: "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com>
Hey Scott - I kept meaning to ask you how your fuel guardian is working for you. do you like it? does it really go off where you thought it would? I think it was 5.5 gallons right? Just wondering cause I copied your install... also, I got a question from another builder about the install, and I couldn't seem to find the page where you explained it. is that still up? Inquiring minds want to know! cj #40410 fuse www.perfectlygoodairplane.net ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: SS fastener galling
Date: Feb 16, 2007
I want to install a magnetometer shelf behind the baggage compartment , bolting it to the longerons with AN3 hardware. I ordered the appropriate stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers; placed the first set in the first hole, and began tightening. The nut tightened up early, long before reaching the end of the threads, and could not be backed off. I finally had to twist hard enough to shear the bolt in order to remove it. Experimenting with a SS bolt held in the shop vise gave the same result - the nut "galled" on the bolt and froze solid. I could not remove the nut except by shearing the bolt. I didn't tighten particularly fast, either, so although there was some friction heating, it was not abnormal. Substituting a regular steel AN365 nut solved the problem - it behaved perfectly normally. Likewise, substituting a steel AN3 bolt for the SS bolt and using a stainless nut gave no problem. A generous coat of Boelube solid wax lubricant allowed the stainless nut and bolt to work together. Now "everybody" in my previous life (high temperature chemical and electrochemical technology) knew better than to use stainless-on- stainless threaded fasteners because of this very same galling phenomenon, but it just did not occur to me that it would be a problem, especially at room temperature. Talk about forgetting lessons learned! Solution: use a steel AN365 nut and accept the miniscule magnetic field it causes. BTW, the nut wighs about 2 g and the bolt about 4 g. I'm thinking that there's not any significant dissimilar metal corrosion problem - the difference is much smaller than steel vs aluminum. Boelube would work for the first few SS-on-SS assembly/disassembly cycles, but it could conceivably dry out or be removed by repeated assembly and disassembly and lose its protective film. Somebody else down the line could also use new SS hardware and not know... FWIW John Ackerman 40458 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: infinity grips
Date: Feb 16, 2007
I have purchased the Infinity grips for my RV-10. The guy who is helping build it is a retired airline pilot. He has a concern that there is so much stuff on the grip that more could go wrong and ergonomics such as moving the hat for trim is awkward. Advised to go with simple wood grips with Push to talk and auto-pilot disconnect only. He knows alot more than I do about flying. Recommendations??? Wood grip suppliers? Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: infinity grips
Date: Feb 16, 2007
Infinity is awesome. People who I know who have tried them out wouldn't think of going back. I haven't heard anybody complain about them at all. Just make sure to angle them towards the outside hand so it is comfortable to hold. Trims are comfortable, everything is at your fingertips (3 trims, flaps, PTT, A/P disc and an extra that could be boost pump through a relay - I hook them up to cockpit lights for night flying). Wouldn't have it any other way. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gorejr(at)bellsouth.net Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: infinity grips I have purchased the Infinity grips for my RV-10. The guy who is helping build it is a retired airline pilot. He has a concern that there is so much stuff on the grip that more could go wrong and ergonomics such as moving the hat for trim is awkward. Advised to go with simple wood grips with Push to talk and auto-pilot disconnect only. He knows alot more than I do about flying. Recommendations??? Wood grip suppliers? Jim -- 5:40 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: CAD Drawings
Date: Feb 16, 2007
Does anybody have a link where I can download CAD drawings of common instrument panel items, like switches, breakers and namely, the standard Mag switch? Is there a library anyway like the Aero Electric one for electrical drawings? By the way, I'm using TurboCAD. I do have a bunch of items that I have drawn myself, which people are welcome to use if they need to. Contact me offline if you need something and I will let you know if I have it. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: infinity grips
Date: Feb 16, 2007
From: "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
It was a toss up for me, and after trying several I really liked the CH products sticks, of course I have been using their joysticks and yokes for many years at home game flying so I could be biased, but I love the ones they made for me. Dan N289DT -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gorejr(at)bellsouth.net Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 7:34 PM Subject: RV10-List: infinity grips I have purchased the Infinity grips for my RV-10. The guy who is helping build it is a retired airline pilot. He has a concern that there is so much stuff on the grip that more could go wrong and ergonomics such as moving the hat for trim is awkward. Advised to go with simple wood grips with Push to talk and auto-pilot disconnect only. He knows alot more than I do about flying. Recommendations??? Wood grip suppliers? Jim ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <noel(at)blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: CAD Drawings
Date: Feb 16, 2007
I hope someone has these I just have to use my calipers and the actual part. Noel _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 8:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: CAD Drawings Does anybody have a link where I can download CAD drawings of common instrument panel items, like switches, breakers and namely, the standard Mag switch? Is there a library anyway like the Aero Electric one for electrical drawings? By the way, I'm using TurboCAD. I do have a bunch of items that I have drawn myself, which people are welcome to use if they need to. Contact me offline if you need something and I will let you know if I have it. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Electrical System Critique
Date: Feb 17, 2007
John, Larry I also liked the idea of 2 same size batteries (17ah) and an annual swap. The concern I ran into was if you use one for cranking and the other for the start-up avionics, I would have only half the cranking power that I would have had with the one 25ah battery. According to Tim, you want to start up your Cheltons as well as your engine monitor before cranking and you do not want to have these or the e. ignition on the cranking battery (will re-boot the Cheltons and this takes some time). If I tie the two 17ah batteries together for cranking then I have tied the avionics to the cranking batteries. This led me to having one larger cranking battery and one smaller battery for start-up avionics, e. ign., and essential bus backup. Is there an option I am missing here? I dropped the idea of a second alternator after discussions with several people. The main reason is that if I have any electrical failure, I am going to land as soon as possible. I do not need a second alternator to take me to the end of my fuel endurance (might be a dangerous temptation to keep going). With 2 quality RG batteries I should get about 1 1/2 hours of backup (plus my AFS3400 internal battery - 1 hr.). This should easily get me to an airport or instrument approach if IFR. The other reason was the cost of the accessory pad back up alternator - about $1,000. I don't want to sound like I am any kind of expert or know the right answer. So please challenge my thinking. Couple of issues I am struggling over now: 1) Lightspeed suggest that you run a 18awg shielded power wire to a breaker and then all the way back to the battery. I am resisting this, thinking of running the shielded wire to the breaker, then the 2nd battery bus at the panel, I am not sure that I will not get ignition noise if I do this. What have others done and what has been your experience with ignition noise? 2) I can't decide if I should put a switch between the 2nd battery and the ebus alternate feed (see attached schematic). 3) Still looking for a good 12-17ah small/light 2nd battery. Thanks for all the inputs John Testement HYPERLINK "mailto:jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com"jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA FWF, engine, wiring _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] Hi John, I am also struggling with this design and am probably two steps behind you. I like the way you have laid yours out, combining physical location with the electrical diagram. This helps me conceptualise. My own thoughts are not dissimilar to yours with a couple of variations. I am keen to bullet proof my electrical system so at a conceptual level what I am thinking is as follows:- * Two batteries of equal size so you can change them out alternately and always have a relatively new battery for the avionics/endurance buss. Two 17AH batteries should suffice * Run two fairly equal size busses, one with the main airframe electrics as you have done, the second with the critical to flight safety avionics etc. The critical to flight safety buss might be on two busses, an avionics buss and an endurance buss. To balance out the busses I am considering putting the engine monitor system on the main power buss because I want it for engine start and if I lose a circuit I figure I can live without this for the time it takes to sort out what has happened and what I need to do. If necessary, completing the rest of the flight without it is probably OK if not desirable. As pointed out, most items on the main buss are separately switched, so after things settle you can switch as desired to get back what you can afford to carry. * Set the batteries up so you can choose to run either battery with either circuit. If both batteries are down the back, this creates a problem with added wire weight to my mind, because you need to run three 4AWG wires from the back if you plan to use both batteries to crank, and two 4AWG plus 1 2AWG if you plan to use one battery to crank. We live in Australia so we don=92t get the freezing conditions where I plan to do most my flying, so I like the idea of using the older battery on the power circuit, using it to crank the engine on its own, and at the first sign of not doing that task well, change that battery out for a new one and rotate batteries. I recognize that this approach won=92t suit all situations. I would like to put the main battery up the front so I can run very short wires from it to crank the engine, but I am not sure yet whether this is appropriate from a weight and balance perspective. I do like Jesse Saint=92s logic from a weight and balance perspective with doing this. * Install two alternators which are switched to run either/or, not both because of the complexity associated with trying to get both alternators working at the same time, plus I think it is better redundancy planning this way. * Run one electronic and one mag ignition as you have done, so that in the absolute worse case scenario the engine keeps running on the mag. * No vacuum system because of their weight and inherent unreliability. * Run over voltage protection on both alternators because of the damage that can be done to everything without it. That=92s about where I am with my thinking at this stage and I am now ready to move to the more detailed planning phase. Would you please post an ACAD version of your layout if you have one? Thanks very much for kicking this thread off, it is very helpful. John Cleary (finishing wings, started fuse) -- 2/16/2007 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you are already passed this particular level of hell. My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the tail fairings and wingtips? I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? -Jim 40384 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Boost Pump & Filter
Date: Feb 17, 2007
This came up yesterday when a list member called me. It is quite a pain in the neck to get all of those little short lines between the filter and pump, then from the pump to the floscan. We realized that it would be easy to rearrange the brackets on the tunnel floor so all 3 of these parts are directly aligned. That way the lines between them are just straight stubs of line with flared ends. Is there a reason that this is not a good idea? It is not a difficult modification, but I want to know if I am missing something. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
You will go through a LOT of West System stuff throughout the project. If I'd have known earlier, I would have ordered at least the mid-sized cans...but instead I had lots of orders of the small sized cans. This was what I started with: Quantity (2) of 105-A (1qt resin) (2) 205-A (hardener), (1) 300 Mini Pump Set A, (1) 403 Microfibers, (1) 406 Colloidal Silica, (1) 410 Microlight. My total was ~ $125. Use 406 for Thickening (white) Use 410 Brown Power Mix like Bondo for Filler You will likely use a lot of 410, and you'll use the 406 a lot when you're working on the canopy, but not the tip fairings. The 403 is not used as often but is a cheap filler. I would at least start with the above list, but maybe up the quantity right away to 2 of the 410's. I think by the time I was all done, I probably used 5 or 6 cans of resin and hardener, probably 1 or 2 403's, at least 2 406's, and 3 or maybe even 4 of the 410's. I'm sure with good efficiency you can finish a plane with less, but I did many batches and did lots of filling on things like the canopy doorposts and stuff that made it turn out nice and smooth. The 410 will be fantastic stuff for filling the fiberglass tips and surface dings. Better than bondo type stuff most of the time. For cloth, you will need some of the E-Glass for under the windshield area, but there isn't a lot of need for other cloths in most cases, unless you're going beyond the plans, which some people do. As far as the slow or fast, I can't remember which step it was, the windshield fairing or the doors, but there was at least one time when it was nice to have the opposite of what I listed above. I think that's 206 if I remember right. But I only had one can of that. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying James Hein wrote: > > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you are > already passed this particular level of hell. > > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the > tail fairings and wingtips? > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? > > -Jim 40384 > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Check this out: http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html Brian #40308 James Hein wrote: > > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you > are already passed this particular level of hell. > > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the > tail fairings and wingtips? > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? > > -Jim 40384 > > > . > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <jim(at)CombsFive.Com>
Subject: Re: Boost Pump & Filter
Date: Feb 17, 2007
Would you worry about thermal expansion of the straight sections putting stress on the connections. At least those runs with bends in them have something to flex slightly. Getting the straight pieces cut exactly the right length might also be tougher to do. Jim C N312F - Finish Kit (Still!) =========================================================== From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> Date: 2007/02/17 Sat AM 11:33:34 EST Subject: RV10-List: Boost Pump & Filter This came up yesterday when a list member called me. It is quite a pain in the neck to get all of those little short lines between the filter and pump, then from the pump to the floscan. We realized that it would be easy to rearrange the brackets on the tunnel floor so all 3 of these parts are directly aligned. That way the lines between them are just straight stubs of line with flared ends. Is there a reason that this is not a good idea? It is not a difficult modification, but I want to know if I am missing something. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 =========================================================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: Bruce Patton <bpattonsoa(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that keeps it fr om being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fib erglass will be applied. Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of t he part when the new glass peals off the old.=0A=0ABruce Patton=0A=0A=0A--- -- Original Message ----=0AFrom: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net>=0A =0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you r@bellsouth.net>=0A=0ACheck this out:=0A=0Ahttp://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglas s/fiberglass.html=0A=0ABrian=0A#40308=0A=0A=0AJames Hein wrote:=0A> --> RV1 0-List message posted by: James Hein =0A>=0A> I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you =0A> are already pas sed this particular level of hell.=0A>=0A> My question is: What "starter ki t" would you recommend for doing the =0A> tail fairings and wingtips?=0A> I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with =0A> i t? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)?=0A>=0A> =========================0A -======================== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Indran Chelvanayagam" <dc71(at)netspace.net.au>
Subject: Crossbow vs Pinpoint
Date: Feb 18, 2007
Guys, as part of the D2A recovery package from Lancair avionics, I've been offered the choice between a Pinpoint and a Crossbow 425EX AHRS (Crossbow is cheaper) I realise that Crossbow had problems with this model, but they claim to have fixed them all On the other hand, Pinpoint is a relatively "new" (and small?) company, with strong ties to D2A. What are the experiences regarding installing & flying these different units? Indran #40228 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Good info there! I might add ...... the rotary cutter can be had from any good crafts store. While you're there, get a box of popsicle sticks ..... works better than the tongue depressors. For squeegees, I use old plastic credit cards, hotel room cards ..... you get the picture. Linn new owner of 40118 rv10builder wrote: > > Check this out: > > http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html > > Brian > #40308 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
The problems with peeling or separating are usually due to not cleaning all the sanding dust after sanding. The epoxies are unlike polyester resins that have wax that rises to the surface and produces the 'shine'. I've not had any problems adding epoxy resin on epoxy rexin without sanding in between. But then I just may have been lucky! :-) Linn Bruce Patton wrote: > That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that keeps > it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to > which the fiberglass will be applied. Without that, you may have a > wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old. > > Bruce Patton > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:48:17 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would > you recommend? > > > Check this out: > > http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html > > Brian > #40308 > > > James Hein wrote: > > > > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you > > are already passed this particular level of hell. > > > > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the > > tail fairings and wingtips? > > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with > > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? > > > > -Jim 40384 > > > > > > > > sp; - The RV10-List Email Forum > -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li - NEW MATRONICS== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Date: Feb 17, 2007
Jim, In addition to what everyone else stated, one of the best tools that you can own while working with fiberglass is a good air sander. After 7 years and many, many paint jobs, I highly recommend the Dual Action (DA)AirVantage sander. It is bullet proof and very easy to use. (http://www.autobodystore.com/tools.htm). A good air sander will knock down the epoxy and fiberglass very easily in no time with the right grit on it. I recommend a box of each...40, 80, 120, 220, and 320. These grits are just for the fiberglass and primer work. Painting is a different story! Zack n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote: > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you are > already passed this particular level of hell. > > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the > tail fairings and wingtips? > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? > > -Jim 40384 -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-754#95754 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: Crossbow vs Pinpoint
Indran, You won't find much on the list yet for experiences from people flying with pinpoints, as I think I and Vic the only ones who are, in an RV-10. There are some other models of aircraft flying the pinpoint though. Having flown them both, I have some experience behind both of them with about 70 hours on the crossbow and 125 on the pinpoint. If Crossbow has all of the bugs completely worked out, which right now I would say still needs the test of time, then I think you could really use either. This isn't to say that I don't trust the product, because they have been much more forthcoming with information in recent months. I just think we need to see it re-develop a track record...different than the one it had previously developed. There's no reason why that unit couldn't be acceptable. The largest more recent problems were caused by issues with the GPS aiding that were supposedly fixed in software, so it very well could be good now. So, lets assume they are both good...then what? Well, the pinpoint will be a bit easier to install and does include some benefits as well. 1) It has a remote magnetometer which allows easier mounting in a magnetically stable location. It is actually quite hard to find a good location for the 425, because the best I could do at the time was above the battery, and it doesn't really get as far out of the area of the battery and AP servo for me to feel as comfortable with it. 2) The pinpoint comes with its own air data computer, and its highly accurate. It has been flown next to a known and tested air data unit in my plane that was also accurate to within 7' of altitude, and the airspeed on the 2 units matches perfectly too. So even if you have a 2nd air data system, you now have multiple systems that you can compare for data. 3) The algorithm within the pinpoint is not at all GPS dependent. In fact, the GPS is not internally connected at all to the AHRS, so you will never develop attitude related issues due to GPS signal loss. I have also tested mine by disconnecting in various ways the pitot and static lines during turning flight and that does not upset it either, so it should be very reliable. 4) The pinpoint does have a superior mounting and alignment software function. You can mount it oriented in any of the 4 directions, so you're not tied to one specific installation, and in fact you can mount it under the panel. And due to it's configuration software on the Chelton, you don't have to be as precise in regards to the level as others. The calibration procedure is accurate and much easier, and can be done without a PC...all from the screen. The downside to the pinpoint is really the delivery. I don't know any of the recent specifics as to shipping time, but I'm sure you could get a Crossbow in short order, where you may wait 30-60 days I'd suppose for the pinpoint. As for your comment about strong ties to D2A, I won't go too into it on this forum, but whereas the pinpoint was perhaps strongly tied to D2A before, that's just because they were the only distributor. In fact, today I would say that there are no companies with "strong ties" to D2A, because Chelton itself is distributing the pinpoint, and they are also involved in suing D2A....so there are no warm fuzzies even by them for the people at D2A. Products are products, and should be judged on their product quality. Politics aren't really things that enhance the ability to choose the right product. There were lots of bad things happening by multiple parties a year ago. At present, I think the real bad eggs are now expunged and what's left is the same products being offered, but from a more reliable source. And Crossbow has really whipped themselves into a good playing team too...so you really can't go too awful wrong today. What you really should do is dig in though on the Chelton EFIS forum at http://www.CheltonEFISpilots.com, because there you should be able to ask these questions and get responses from a much higher number of people who can respond with actual in-flight experience with either. With either system, make sure you do a real "by the book" install and you'll likely have success. The pinpoint just makes the job easier by it's design. Hopefully we'll eventually see a similar unit available by another manufacturer like Crossbow, as the design itself is much easier to work with. For the small price difference today though, I myself would choose the pinpoint if I was in your shoes. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Indran Chelvanayagam wrote: > Guys, as part of the D2A recovery package from Lancair avionics, I've > been offered the choice between a Pinpoint and a Crossbow 425EX AHRS > (Crossbow is cheaper) > > I realise that Crossbow had problems with this model, but they claim to > have fixed them all > On the other hand, Pinpoint is a relatively "new" (and small?) company, > with strong ties to D2A. > > What are the experiences regarding installing & flying these different > units? > > Indran > #40228 > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: Matt Reeves <mattreeves(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Jim, Bruce is right. I built a Lancair and taught my brother all I know about fiberglass for his RV-7A. The number 1 thing to remember is cleanliness. Lance - designer of Lancair always said, "If it ain't clean, it ain't gunna stick." You MUST scratch up good the area that needs to be bonded and I mean with 40-80 grit and then vacuum it good, then acetone or MEK with a clean cloth, then sand 40-80 grit again (because wiping with acetone may have spread dirt or residue into the scratches). Use a paint brush and paint some mixed up resin onto the clean scratched up surface. Not a lot, just enough to get it wet. (This should already be done and waiting) - Fiberglass is a woven cloth. You'll almost always use the weave like small XXX's to get the most strength - what this means when you unravel the roll of fiberglass you get from Aircraft Spruce or wherever, you will cut strips of it on a 45 degree angle - ususally about 2 inches wide - or whatever you need) Do the layup as the link suggests - although I don't use a sponge to saturate, I just pour it on there and spread it out with my paint brush - I think the sponge might offer some contaminates but whatever works. Put plastic on the top and I use a long screw I got from Home Depot but Aircraft Spruce now has a tool that looks like a miniature rolling pin but it's grooved like a screw. Get it. Don't push too hard or not hard enough. You just want to squeeze out excess resin - that's it - if it gets white, you took out too much resin - put more back in. When you apply the sandwich, make sure you peel off the plastic. Sounds stupid but EVERYONE has done it. Use a colored plastic to remind you. When applied, use your long 4-6 inch screw or tool from ACS and push out as many air bubbles as you can without pushing out too much resin. You can do you over and over. If it's starting to cure, and you can't push out anymore, I use a pin to poke the air bubble until it escapes. I had a reaction to West System and switched to Jeffco which Aircraft Spruce sells. It is clear to greenish and has no smell. I like it better. The MOST important thing is the mixing ratio has to be perfect. After you have your mixture, you can do whatever you want with it - saturate the cloth, mix up micro, flox, or whatever. There are no set amounts of the fillers so if you want micro wet and runny, use less - if you want strength and less pinholes, use 90% micro bubbles and 10% cabosil - which looks like sugar but it contains some particles to prevent micro from sagging on vertical surfaces, but it also helps prevent pinholes somewhat. You will always have pinholes. There is some cool new stuff now called rage that is a cool filler guaranteed not to have pinholes but you'll still get a few. You asked about slow and fast hardeners. Use slow until you get the hang of it. But definately the factor on both is temperature. 70-75 is ideal. Never let mixed up resin sit around while you do something else. It will exotherm or boil and gets hot, smokes, and stinks. When you mix it up, get to it. There is no stopping resin from curing so if the phone rings, forget it - even if it's the Million dollar sweepstakes notifying you are a winner! Have a garbage can ready. Acetone will clean up messes pretty good. There's a thousand things I could tell you. Making the layup is just one step. Filling it is a whole other ball game. Never use filler over cured fiberglass without sanding and cleaning just as before - this time using about 120-180 grit. Make sure the clear appearance is gone. Clean with acetone, sand, vacuum and paint wet resin and apply filler. I use a razor blade to push it down into all the holes well without a lot of left over sanding to do. Here's a trick to save you some time. Use peel-ply exactly like a layer of glass. Make sure you have it on the TOP and not the bottom when you apply the layup. When cured, simply peel it off and no sanding or cleaning is necessary to apply more layers of fiberglass OR apply filler - still paint a thin layer of wet resin on it though if you need to fill. When mostly done, ONLY use 3M foam sanding blocks. Spray glue 100-180 grit to it. I'd use at least a 1 foot block and no less than 6 inches. Spray some crappy black spray paint on it - let it dry and sand at 45 degrees and then 90. You are looking for high and low spots. You will sand off high and the paint will show the low. Don't ruin the fiberglass by sanding too low just to get rid of the low spots. Sand and fill those spots with micro - micro/flox if they are deeper. Anyway, I hope this helps a little. My brother Danny (RV-7A) has a nice write up and description of the entire process with good pictures and it has some good pointers. I'll find that and send it to you too. Good luck. WEAR a mask. Matt Reeves Rochester, NY Bruce Patton wrote: That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied. Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old. Bruce Patton ----- Original Message ---- From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:48:17 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Check this out: http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html Brian #40308 James Hein wrote: > > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you > are already passed this particular level of hell. > > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the > tail fairings and wingtips? > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? > > -Jim 40384 > > > sp; - The RV10-List Email Forum -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li - NEW MATRONICS== --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: Matt Reeves <mattreeves(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Here's an AWESOME link I promised. Very well written. Definately applies to RV's too. Have a great day. FINISHING A COMPOSITE AIRPLANE LINK: http://curedcomposites.netfirms.com/finish.html linn Walters wrote: The problems with peeling or separating are usually due to not cleaning all the sanding dust after sanding. The epoxies are unlike polyester resins that have wax that rises to the surface and produces the 'shine'. I've not had any problems adding epoxy resin on epoxy rexin without sanding in between. But then I just may have been lucky! :-) Linn Bruce Patton wrote: That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied. Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old. Bruce Patton ----- Original Message ---- From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:48:17 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Check this out: http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html Brian #40308 James Hein wrote: > > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you > are already passed this particular level of hell. > > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the > tail fairings and wingtips? > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? > > -Jim 40384 > > > sp; - The RV10-List Email Forum -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li - NEW MATRONICS== --------------------------------- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Boost Pump & Filter
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The AC 43.13 gives the reason for angles and bends in rigid tubing (flex tubing as well) as a dampener for Flex and improved connection between two devices that happen to be Inline. When the B nut or the ferrule chafe from vibration, flex or pressure change, it is becomes much easier to understand the directive. John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Boost Pump & Filter This came up yesterday when a list member called me. It is quite a pain in the neck to get all of those little short lines between the filter and pump, then from the pump to the floscan. We realized that it would be easy to rearrange the brackets on the tunnel floor so all 3 of these parts are directly aligned. That way the lines between them are just straight stubs of line with flared ends. Is there a reason that this is not a good idea? It is not a difficult modification, but I want to know if I am missing something. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
In defense of smaller packaging. Reduced contamination, reduced oxidation with the larger lid being open, possible tighter inventor control within the Limitation Date, space management in a small garage. However, knowing what is needed is highly valuable. Thanks for the inventory report. John Cox Dreaming of Flying -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:45 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? You will go through a LOT of West System stuff throughout the project. If I'd have known earlier, I would have ordered at least the mid-sized cans...but instead I had lots of orders of the small sized cans. This was what I started with: Quantity (2) of 105-A (1qt resin) (2) 205-A (hardener), (1) 300 Mini Pump Set A, (1) 403 Microfibers, (1) 406 Colloidal Silica, (1) 410 Microlight. My total was ~ $125. Use 406 for Thickening (white) Use 410 Brown Power Mix like Bondo for Filler You will likely use a lot of 410, and you'll use the 406 a lot when you're working on the canopy, but not the tip fairings. The 403 is not used as often but is a cheap filler. I would at least start with the above list, but maybe up the quantity right away to 2 of the 410's. I think by the time I was all done, I probably used 5 or 6 cans of resin and hardener, probably 1 or 2 403's, at least 2 406's, and 3 or maybe even 4 of the 410's. I'm sure with good efficiency you can finish a plane with less, but I did many batches and did lots of filling on things like the canopy doorposts and stuff that made it turn out nice and smooth. The 410 will be fantastic stuff for filling the fiberglass tips and surface dings. Better than bondo type stuff most of the time. For cloth, you will need some of the E-Glass for under the windshield area, but there isn't a lot of need for other cloths in most cases, unless you're going beyond the plans, which some people do. As far as the slow or fast, I can't remember which step it was, the windshield fairing or the doors, but there was at least one time when it was nice to have the opposite of what I listed above. I think that's 206 if I remember right. But I only had one can of that. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Visit your local TAP plastics store. They have a waste box (near their scale)with a cheap source of PVC, Acrylic, Lexan, Cutting board material and HDPE, Release Film is valuable to buy as well. It is amazing the things that can be made as tools from scrap. It's usually about $0.50 per pound. I have an assortment of cutting board plastic which astounds the guys at work. The word is always the same "Where did you get, That?". When doing composites, there are lots of shortcuts to the Masters or PHD of sanding. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of linn Walters Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 4:58 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Good info there! I might add ...... the rotary cutter can be had from any good crafts store. While you're there, get a box of popsicle sticks ..... works better than the tongue depressors. For squeegees, I use old plastic credit cards, hotel room cards ..... you get the picture. Linn new owner of 40118 rv10builder wrote: > > Check this out: > > http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html > > Brian > #40308 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The best tool is a comfortable fitting face mask. Even if your sander has a discharge bag it can help those respiratory issues at night and down the road. Always wear approved barrier gloves with MEK. Clean prudently and often. We actually wear a Tyvek (painter's) Bunny Suit to keep the waste dust off our daily duds. Of course we cut the booties off cause they are such a pain. We also have a cheap vacuum which has been sacrificed for only composite work. The stuff that comes out is disgusting material you would not want down your windpipe. Don't forget to read Andy Marshall's Book. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8 Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 5:13 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Jim, In addition to what everyone else stated, one of the best tools that you can own while working with fiberglass is a good air sander. After 7 years and many, many paint jobs, I highly recommend the Dual Action (DA)AirVantage sander. It is bullet proof and very easy to use. (http://www.autobodystore.com/tools.htm). A good air sander will knock down the epoxy and fiberglass very easily in no time with the right grit on it. I recommend a box of each...40, 80, 120, 220, and 320. These grits are just for the fiberglass and primer work. Painting is a different story! Zack n8vim(at)arrl.net wrote: > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of you are > already passed this particular level of hell. > > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for doing the > tail fairings and wingtips? > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I order with > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? > > -Jim 40384 -------- RV8 #80125 RV10 # 40512 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p-754#95754 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Matt, after thirty years of car restoration and yes, aircraft painting. I can clearly endorse your below post as a treatise for a "Masters in Fiberglas" in 1,000 words or less (935 to be exact). RV-10 builders should use this as a roadmap to their diploma's as well. They may have a little trouble with visualization of some of the products right now, but in time, they will go Wow, "Matt really knew his stuff". Lance was right, if it's not Clean it won't stick. If the air is too humid, it won't stick. 70-75 the porridge should be just right. That is air temperature and the temperature of the resin. John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Reeves Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 5:53 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Jim, Bruce is right. I built a Lancair and taught my brother all I know about fiberglass for his RV-7A. The number 1 thing to remember is cleanliness. Lance - designer of Lancair always said, "If it ain't clean, it ain't gunna stick." You MUST scratch up good the area that needs to be bonded and I mean with 40-80 grit and then vacuum it good, then acetone or MEK with a clean cloth, then sand 40-80 grit again (because wiping with acetone may have spread dirt or residue into the scratches). Use a paint brush and paint some mixed up resin onto the clean scratched up surface. Not a lot, just enough to get it wet. (This should already be done and waiting) - Fiberglass is a woven cloth. You'll almost always use the weave like small XXX's to get the most strength - what this means when you unravel the roll of fiberglass you get from Aircraft Spruce or wherever, you will cut strips of it on a 45 degree angle - ususally about 2 inches wide - or whatever you need) Do the layup as the link suggests - although I don't use a sponge to saturate, I just pour it on there and spread it out with my paint brush - I think the sponge might offer some contaminates but whatever works. Put plastic on the top and I use a long screw I got from Home Depot but Aircraft Spruce now has a tool that looks like a miniature rolling pin but it's grooved like a screw. Get it. Don't push too hard or not hard enough. You just want to squeeze out excess resin - that's it - if it gets white, you took out too much resin - put more back in. When you apply the sandwich, make sure you peel off the plastic. Sounds stupid but EVERYONE has done it. Use a colored plastic to remind you. When applied, use your long 4-6 inch screw or tool from ACS and push out as many air bubbles as you can without pushing out too much resin. You can do you over and over. If it's starting to cure, and you can't push out anymore, I use a pin to poke the air bubble until it escapes. I had a reaction to West System and switched to Jeffco which Aircraft Spruce sells. It is clear to greenish and has no smell. I like it better. The MOST important thing is the mixing ratio has to be perfect. After you have your mixture, you can do whatever you want with it - saturate the cloth, mix up micro, flox, or whatever. There are no set amounts of the fillers so if you want micro wet and runny, use less - if you want strength and less pinholes, use 90% micro bubbles and 10% cabosil - which looks like sugar but it contains some particles to prevent micro from sagging on vertical surfaces, but it also helps prevent pinholes somewhat. You will always have pinholes. There is some cool new stuff now called rage that is a cool filler guaranteed not to have pinholes but you'll still get a few. You asked about slow and fast hardeners. Use slow until you get the hang of it. But definately the factor on both is temperature. 70-75 is ideal. Never let mixed up resin sit around while you do something else. It will exotherm or boil and gets hot, smokes, and stinks. When you mix it up, get to it. There is no stopping resin from curing so if the phone rings, forget it - even if it's the Million dollar sweepstakes notifying you are a winner! Have a garbage can ready. Acetone will clean up messes pretty good. There's a thousand things I could tell you. Making the layup is just one step. Filling it is a whole other ball game. Never use filler over cured fiberglass without sanding and cleaning just as before - this time using about 120-180 grit. Make sure the clear appearance is gone. Clean with acetone, sand, vacuum and paint wet resin and apply filler. I use a razor blade to push it down into all the holes well without a lot of left over sanding to do. Here's a trick to save you some time. Use peel-ply exactly like a layer of glass. Make sure you have it on the TOP and not the bottom when you apply the layup. When cured, simply peel it off and no sanding or cleaning is necessary to apply more layers of fiberglass OR apply filler - still paint a thin layer of wet resin on it though if you need to fill. When mostly done, ONLY use 3M foam sanding blocks. Spray glue 100-180 grit to it. I'd use at least a 1 foot block and no less than 6 inches. Spray some crappy black spray paint on it - let it dry and sand at 45 degrees and then 90. You are looking for high and low spots. You will sand off high and the paint will show the low. Don't ruin the fiberglass by sanding too low just to get rid of the low spots. Sand and fill those spots with micro - micro/flox if they are deeper. Anyway, I hope this helps a little. My brother Danny (RV-7A) has a nice write up and description of the entire process with good pictures and it has some good pointers. I'll find that and send it to you too. Good luck. WEAR a mask. Matt Reeves Rochester, NY Bruce Patton wrote: That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied. Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old. Bruce Patton ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: "Experimental" Mark Inquiry
I've seen that most builders have placed the "Experimental" on the doors above the windows. I'm interested in seeing if anyone has had any thoughts/plans/conversations/discussions about any other locations? Above the doors on the cabin cover? Aft Bulkhead? (how near is near?) Center Console? /FAR 45.23 Display of marks; (b) When marks that include only the Roman capital letter "N" and the registration number are displayed on limited or restricted category aircraft or experimental or provisionally certificated aircraft, the operator shall also display on that aircraft *near each entrance to the cabin or cockpit, *in letters not less than 2 inches nor more than 6 inches in height, the words "limited," "restricted," "experimental," or "provisional airworthiness," as the case may be./ Appreciate any comments feedback Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/* * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: "Experimental" Mark Inquiry
Date: Feb 17, 2007
We have put them on the top of the rear baggage wall. The DARs have had no problems with that whatsoever. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 9:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: "Experimental" Mark Inquiry I've seen that most builders have placed the "Experimental" on the doors above the windows. I'm interested in seeing if anyone has had any thoughts/plans/conversations/discussions about any other locations? Above the doors on the cabin cover? Aft Bulkhead? (how near is near?) Center Console? /FAR 45.23 Display of marks; (b) When marks that include only the Roman capital letter "N" and the registration number are displayed on limited or restricted category aircraft or experimental or provisionally certificated aircraft, the operator shall also display on that aircraft *near each entrance to the cabin or cockpit, *in letters not less than 2 inches nor more than 6 inches in height, the words "limited," "restricted," "experimental," or "provisional airworthiness," as the case may be./ Appreciate any comments feedback Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/* * -- 5:40 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Thank you all for responding, especially Tim and Matt Reeves; I truly find all the information very helpful indeed. I will probably buy a quart kit to start so I don't have too much material sitting around (I haven't even ordered the fuselage kit yet... need more $$$). I have no idea what a TAP plastics store is, so I'll just do some dumpster diving at work where the prototype shop has all sorts of plastics, lexan, etc. in various thicknesses. One advantage I may have in this particular level of hell is a coworker who seems to LOVE fiberglass work, and actually wants to help with my wingtips! I think he's inhaled too much of the stuff myself (j/k)! I want to do the smal fairings myself to get an idea of what I'm doing first. In other news, I have a fantastic way to mount the tail strobe! I will send a procedure with pictures to Tim and the list when I'm done (should be later today for those chomping at the bit). -Jim 40384 Wing skins all riveted! (noit much left to do... all control surfaces and pushrods are already done) Matt Reeves wrote: > Here's an AWESOME link I promised. > > Very well written. Definately applies to RV's too. > > Have a great day. > > > FINISHING A COMPOSITE AIRPLANE LINK: > http://curedcomposites.netfirms.com/finish.html > > > */linn Walters /* wrote: > > The problems with peeling or separating are usually due to not > cleaning all the sanding dust after sanding. The epoxies are > unlike polyester resins that have wax that rises to the surface > and produces the 'shine'. I've not had any problems adding epoxy > resin on epoxy rexin without sanding in between. But then I just > may have been lucky! :-) > Linn > > Bruce Patton wrote: > >> That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that >> keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part >> that to which the fiberglass will be applied. Without that, you >> may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals >> off the old. >> >> Bruce Patton >> >> ----- Original Message ---- >> From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:48:17 AM >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass >> would you recommend? >> >> >> >> Check this out: >> >> http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html >> >> Brian >> #40308 >> >> >> James Hein wrote: >> > >> > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of >> you >> > are already passed this particular level of hell. >> > >> > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for >> doing the >> > tail fairings and wingtips? >> > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I >> order with >> > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? >> > >> > -Jim 40384 >> > >> > >> > >> > sp; - The RV10-List Email Forum >> -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li - NEW >> MATRONICS== >> >>* * >> > >* > > >* > >** > > >** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Fuel Filter
Date: Feb 18, 2007
Has anyone come up with an alternate placement of the fuel filter. I'd like a location FWF so as not to have to open the tunnel for filter service. ( I'll have a console below the panel over the tunnel ) Any reason it could not be located on the firewall? Use a gascolator instead? The subject was brought up in previous posts but don't remember any posts regarding a solution...john John Hasbrouck #40264 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: cloudvalley(at)comcast.net
Subject: Axle Extensions
Date: Feb 18, 2007
Hello Tim, Ruth and I got our axle extension bolts yesterday . Thanks to you and all who helped, including your cute daughters ! We also can't wait until it's time to install them... Brian and Ruth #40666
Hello Tim,
Ruth and I got our axle extension bolts yesterday . Thanks to you and all who helped, including  your cute daughters !
We also can't wait until it's time to install them...
Brian and Ruth
#40666

      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
Not an alternate placement, But During a recent visit from Al Gardner, he shared that he was planning on installing an access panel similar to the stall warning panel on the bottom of the aircraft so that you could change/remove the filter from the bottom and avoid having gas inside of the tunnel/plane. sounded like something that deserves some consideration. Al you got your ears on??? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ John Hasbrouck wrote: > > Has anyone come up with an alternate placement of the fuel filter. > I'd like a location FWF so as not to have to open the tunnel for > filter service. ( I'll have a console below the panel over the tunnel > ) Any reason it could not be located on the firewall? Use a > gascolator instead? The subject was brought up in previous posts but > don't remember any posts regarding a solution...john > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical System Critique
Date: Feb 18, 2007
Scott - and others, Based on all of great inputs on and off line I am now leaning back towards the 2 PC680 17ah battery scheme. I will allow the 2nd battery to independently run avionics during start up. I would provide the option to tie the 2nd battery to the main battery through a contactor if in a cold situation the main battery cannot start the engine. Once started I can also tie the 2nd battery to the main bus to let it charge. If the 1st battery fails and I need main bus items I can power the main bus from the second battery. Unless I am overlooking something (which I usually do), this seems like the best of all worlds - independent avionics on start, annual rotation of batteries, minimal weight impact, longer ebus backup time. Please give me your reactions - diagram attached. John Testement jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com 40321 Richmond, VA FWF, engine, wiring -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Keadle Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 9:01 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Electrical System Critique All, I have my panel completed from SteinAir, and was planning on running two alternators, because I didn't think that it was possible to charge two batteries simultaneously with one alternator. Is this correct? If not, then I think I could just charge both with one 60amp alternator. Honestly, I could ask Stein, but I'm too embarrassed to aggravate him any further with a question that I probably already asked him several months ago! I am running two seperate busses, each of which is capable of operating the airplane in IFR conditions indefinitely. My thought was that if I were going to count on a "backup" system, then I should be constantly monitoring that system for operational readiness, lest I turn to the "backup" and find that it doesn't work when I really need it (this seems common in the typical small business computer backup, for instance). I am also running dual Lightspeed ignitions, and will run separate physical routing of each wire directly to the battery, in case of a master-solenoid failure, which is actually not that uncommon and pretty much unpreventable. The seperate physical routing is in case of something weird happening to the wire bundle (fire, big toe, AAA from spamcan ground defenses, etc.). I too, am just now realizing the starter/avionics clash for battery power, and trying to decide how to handle the situation. It may be as simple as starting on the "backup" bus, which doesn't have the Chelton's on it, and using a "cranking" style battery on that bus. I would appreciate any suggestions. I have a wiring diagram that I would be happy to share if anyone cared to see it, but it is a hard copy produced by SteinAir, and I'm not quite sure I know how to get it onto the computer. I am copying this message to Stein, so maybe he has a digital copy that he can send to the list. Scott -- ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Whelen A-500A Strobe Installation
Tim, You may put this on your site if you wish. Here's what I did: 1. Start by cutting a 1" hole in the center of the tail fairing where the strobe is supposed to be located. Be careful, the seam in the fiberglass on mine was not exactly in the middle, so don't use it to determine the centerline. 2. Enlarge the hole slightly with a file until the strobe assembly drops in place. 3. Take apart strobe assembly, then enlarge the mounting holes in both the strobe assembly, and the retaining cover carefully to 5/32". Remove material that is toward the outside of the strobe. This is most easilly accomplished by using a step drill by hand, turning the bit half way around, then back a half turn. This is needed so that the head of a 6-32 screw can sit flat on the strobe cover. 4. Mark and drill the mounting holes for the strobe "tabs" in the fiberglass. 5. Take two K1000-06 nutplates, and cut off one of the tabs. 6. Drill the nutplate holes in the fiberglass (see photo for approximate location) 7. Countersink the nutplate rivet holes 8. Make sure the nutplates are trimmed well enough so that they fit properly in the fairing. 9. Using CCR-264SS-3-2 pop rivets, rivet the nutplates in place. 10. Install strobe assembly using two commercially available pan head 6-32 1" long screws. -Jim 40384 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Boone" <david555(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Filter
Date: Feb 18, 2007
John, we returned the original fuel filter to Vans, bought 2 new filters from a "race car" supplier, positioned 1 each under the pilot and copilot seat, installed a valve on the fuel tank side of each filter (to limit the fuel spillage when changing/cleaning the filter). David Boone 40138 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hasbrouck" <jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com> Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 9:41 AM Subject: RV10-List: Fuel Filter > > Has anyone come up with an alternate placement of the fuel filter. I'd > like a location FWF so as not to have to open the tunnel for filter > service. ( I'll have a console below the panel over the tunnel ) Any > reason it could not be located on the firewall? Use a gascolator instead? > The subject was brought up in previous posts but don't remember any posts > regarding a solution...john > > John Hasbrouck > #40264 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: What pop rivet does Van's static port kit use
Listers, Can somebody tell me what pop rivet Vans includes in their static port kit? It looks like an SB-42-BSLF, but I'm not sure. Thanks, Tim Lewis -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 850 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Missing VA-141 Finger Strainer Flanges
Date: Feb 18, 2007
My wing kit inventory paperwork says the VA-141 flanges should have been in BAG 1217. The VA-112 fuel drain flanges were but not the 141's. Does anyone recall where the VA-141's were packaged in their kit? I have looked high and low and then some in my shop for them. Looks like I am missing them and missed it during wing kit inventory. My BAG 1217 has a 2/01/06 date stamp on it. -Ben #40579 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
http://www.tapplastics.com/ dumpster diving is exactly what I was doing, it was just a plastic box and pennies on the dollar. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James Hein Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 5:57 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Thank you all for responding, especially Tim and Matt Reeves; I truly find all the information very helpful indeed. I will probably buy a quart kit to start so I don't have too much material sitting around (I haven't even ordered the fuselage kit yet... need more $$$). I have no idea what a TAP plastics store is, so I'll just do some dumpster diving at work where the prototype shop has all sorts of plastics, lexan, etc. in various thicknesses. One advantage I may have in this particular level of hell is a coworker who seems to LOVE fiberglass work, and actually wants to help with my wingtips! I think he's inhaled too much of the stuff myself (j/k)! I want to do the smal fairings myself to get an idea of what I'm doing first. In other news, I have a fantastic way to mount the tail strobe! I will send a procedure with pictures to Tim and the list when I'm done (should be later today for those chomping at the bit). -Jim 40384 Wing skins all riveted! (noit much left to do... all control surfaces and pushrods are already done) Matt Reeves wrote: > Here's an AWESOME link I promised. > > Very well written. Definately applies to RV's too. > > Have a great day. > > > FINISHING A COMPOSITE AIRPLANE LINK: > http://curedcomposites.netfirms.com/finish.html > > > */linn Walters /* wrote: > > The problems with peeling or separating are usually due to not > cleaning all the sanding dust after sanding. The epoxies are > unlike polyester resins that have wax that rises to the surface > and produces the 'shine'. I've not had any problems adding epoxy > resin on epoxy rexin without sanding in between. But then I just > may have been lucky! :-) > Linn > > Bruce Patton wrote: > >> That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that >> keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part >> that to which the fiberglass will be applied. Without that, you >> may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals >> off the old. >> >> Bruce Patton >> >> ----- Original Message ---- >> From: rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> >> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 8:48:17 AM >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass >> would you recommend? >> >> >> >> Check this out: >> >> http://www.rvpilot.com/Fiberglass/fiberglass.html >> >> Brian >> #40308 >> >> >> James Hein wrote: >> > >> > I am going to finally start the fiberglass work. I know some of >> you >> > are already passed this particular level of hell. >> > >> > My question is: What "starter kit" would you recommend for >> doing the >> > tail fairings and wingtips? >> > I plan on using West Systems Epoxy, but what else should I >> order with >> > it? What cloth? What filler (if any)? What hardener (slow or fast)? >> > >> > -Jim 40384 >> > >> > >> > >> > sp; - The RV10-List Email Forum >> -http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Li - NEW >> MATRONICS== >> >>* * >> > >* > > >* > >** > > >** > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Fuel Filter
Date: Feb 18, 2007
Hi Deems, yes my ears are on-it's my head that's the problem!. As soon as I get the *%!@ headliner glued down I'll post some pics. I like it but since there has been no fuel in the system so far, I don't know if it will allow/minimize any leaks or not when changing the filter. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Filter Not an alternate placement, But During a recent visit from Al Gardner, he shared that he was planning on installing an access panel similar to the stall warning panel on the bottom of the aircraft so that you could change/remove the filter from the bottom and avoid having gas inside of the tunnel/plane. Sounded like something that deserves some consideration. Al you got your ears on??? Deems Davis # 406 Finishing - ( A Misnomer ! ) http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "don wentz" <dasduck(at)comcast.net>
Subject: CAD Drawings
Date: Feb 18, 2007
Jesse, I have my original RV-6 panel dwg that was used to laser cut my panel (back in the old days, when laser cutting was =91new=92 ;-). I=92ll send you some files that are TurboCad compatible. There are cutouts of instruments, radios, nice .8=94 spaced switch/breaker switch banks, etc. The TCad website has =91some=92 electrical symbols available, but most of them are for things we wouldn=92t need. If you have specific questions about the files, feel free to contact me. Anyone else that wants the files, please send me a note offline and I=92ll forward them. Don RV-6 980hrs HYPERLINK "mailto:dasduck(at)comcast.net"dasduck(at)comcast.net Duckworks Aviation LLC _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of noel(at)blueskyaviation.net Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 8:20 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: CAD Drawings I hope someone has these I just have to use my calipers and the actual part. Noel _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 8:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: CAD Drawings Does anybody have a link where I can download CAD drawings of common instrument panel items, like switches, breakers and namely, the standard Mag switch? Is there a library anyway like the Aero Electric one for electrical drawings? By the way, I=92m using TurboCAD. I do have a bunch of items that I have drawn myself, which people are welcome to use if they need to. Contact me offline if you need something and I will let you know if I have it. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. HYPERLINK "mailto:jesse(at)saintaviation.com"jesse(at)saintaviation.com HYPERLINK "http://www.saintaviation.com"www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -- 2/16/2007 -- 2/16/2007 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Date: Feb 18, 2007
I would appreciate hearing peoples comments on the following comparison (archer vs RV10). Don't start laughing yet :) I am doing this for budgetary planning purposes against something that I am familiar with. I would like to know if people think some of these numbers are off the mark. I know people will scream these planes are not even in the same category (mostly in speed, newness, & avionics). Otherwise both are 4 seaters, with only slightly different useful loads. I know people will say its not the aircraft its the buy/build decision, but honestly I would enjoy either process. The following assumptions are used: I am convinced I would LOVE building, not just flying. We do have the time/patience to build. Financing for loan payments (forced home refi due to balloon payment coming due - 6.25% 30 year fixed with cash out to purchase 1/2 of aircraft): Shared ownership/building with each owner purchasing half $4 fuel / gallon Insurance for low time IFR pilot (250 total hours, only 30 complex in a mooney). 200 total hours / year on aircraft (~100 per owner) RV-10: Total Loan Amount $150,000 Total loan payment per month: $924 Hanger / month: %330 a must to protect all the hard work Gallons / hour: 12 Cruise Speed: 165 knots Useful Load: 1180 Seats: 4 Insurance / year: $5000??? Maintenance / year: 1000 parts, free labor?? Fuel Cost / year: 9600 Total / year: 30,642 Total / month: $2554 Total / individual / month: 1277 Cost per flight hour: 153 Available: 3 years from now (but with fun experience of building) Features: NEW everything, owner KNOWs aircraft inside & out 1976 Used Piper Archer II Total Loan Amount 65k Total loan payment per month: $400 Tiedown / month: 85 (tiedown ok for used plane) Gallons / hour: 10 Cruise Speed: 120 knots Useful Load: 1008 Seats: 4 Insurance / year: 2500??? Maintenance / year: 3000 parts/labor Fuel Cost / year: 8000 Total / year: 19322 Total / month: 1610 Total / individual / month: 805 Cost per flight hour: 97 Available: 2 weeks Features: Used, average paint, IFR ready now, dull and boring (not much owner maintenance) Do these look like reasonable numbers? Do the monthly operations costs seem right? I have attached a spreadsheet so those who want to change my numbers may do so. I'd appreciate a copy back of your ideas if you think my numbers should be changed. Especially the insurance figures. What is everyone else paying for insurance with various numbers of piloting hours. Also attached is an updated RV10 budget including many of the hidden costs offered up by list members (others still yet to be included). Thanks in advance, Jim Clark -Trying to figure out how to win the lottery...cowering in expectation of responses to my questions... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Subject: RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Date: Feb 18, 2007
My comments would be.... If you want to be apples to apples, or something like that. Equal up the fuel burn, you can always fly Lean of Peak and reduce power in the RV 10. Insurance costs look a little high for the RV-10, I don't have my final insurance quote.....but it looks like it should be are $3300 for me. Just my .5 cents. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 4:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing) I would appreciate hearing peoples comments on the following comparison (archer vs RV10). Don't start laughing yet :) I am doing this for budgetary planning purposes against something that I am familiar with. I would like to know if people think some of these numbers are off the mark. I know people will scream these planes are not even in the same category (mostly in speed, newness, & avionics). Otherwise both are 4 seaters, with only slightly different useful loads. I know people will say its not the aircraft its the buy/build decision, but honestly I would enjoy either process. The following assumptions are used: I am convinced I would LOVE building, not just flying. We do have the time/patience to build. Financing for loan payments (forced home refi due to balloon payment coming due - 6.25% 30 year fixed with cash out to purchase 1/2 of aircraft): Shared ownership/building with each owner purchasing half $4 fuel / gallon Insurance for low time IFR pilot (250 total hours, only 30 complex in a mooney). 200 total hours / year on aircraft (~100 per owner) RV-10: Total Loan Amount $150,000 Total loan payment per month: $924 Hanger / month: %330 a must to protect all the hard work Gallons / hour: 12 Cruise Speed: 165 knots Useful Load: 1180 Seats: 4 Insurance / year: $5000??? Maintenance / year: 1000 parts, free labor?? Fuel Cost / year: 9600 Total / year: 30,642 Total / month: $2554 Total / individual / month: 1277 Cost per flight hour: 153 Available: 3 years from now (but with fun experience of building) Features: NEW everything, owner KNOWs aircraft inside & out 1976 Used Piper Archer II Total Loan Amount 65k Total loan payment per month: $400 Tiedown / month: 85 (tiedown ok for used plane) Gallons / hour: 10 Cruise Speed: 120 knots Useful Load: 1008 Seats: 4 Insurance / year: 2500??? Maintenance / year: 3000 parts/labor Fuel Cost / year: 8000 Total / year: 19322 Total / month: 1610 Total / individual / month: 805 Cost per flight hour: 97 Available: 2 weeks Features: Used, average paint, IFR ready now, dull and boring (not much owner maintenance) Do these look like reasonable numbers? Do the monthly operations costs seem right? I have attached a spreadsheet so those who want to change my numbers may do so. I'd appreciate a copy back of your ideas if you think my numbers should be changed. Especially the insurance figures. What is everyone else paying for insurance with various numbers of piloting hours. Also attached is an updated RV10 budget including many of the hidden costs offered up by list members (others still yet to be included). Thanks in advance, Jim Clark -Trying to figure out how to win the lottery...cowering in expectation of responses to my questions... ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
Subject: Missing VA - 141 flanges
Ben: You are looking in the correct place. Mine were missing from the kit. Called Vans and they were nice enough to send them to me. No charge. I have kit 40515. Fred Williams Riveting on those fun loving lower wing skins and wishing I was back doing proseal..........not!. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: Matt Reeves <mattreeves(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Thanks for the kind words John!! I'm more than happy to help out anyone who has questions with fiberglass. I'm not an expert, just a guy with an opinion and a hell of a lot of sanding under my belt!! mattreeves(at)yahoo.com John, what's your opinion on Sikkens vs. Imron? I've always used Imron 5 & 6000 and LOVE it but heard Sikkens is more user friendly. I did see an RV-7A painted with Sikkens and buffed to perfection and it was awesome! Just wondering. Have a great day. Matt "John W. Cox" wrote: Matt, after thirty years of car restoration and yes, aircraft painting. I can clearly endorse your below post as a treatise for a Masters in Fiberglas in 1,000 words or less (935 to be exact). RV-10 builders should use this as a roadmap to their diplomas as well. They may have a little trouble with visualization of some of the products right now, but in time, they will go Wow, Matt really knew his stuff. Lance was right, if its not Clean it wont stick. If the air is too humid, it wont stick. 70-75 the porridge should be just right. That is air temperature and the temperature of the resin. John Cox --------------------------------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Reeves Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 5:53 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Jim, Bruce is right. I built a Lancair and taught my brother all I know about fiberglass for his RV-7A. The number 1 thing to remember is cleanliness. Lance - designer of Lancair always said, "If it ain't clean, it ain't gunna stick." You MUST scratch up good the area that needs to be bonded and I mean with 40-80 grit and then vacuum it good, then acetone or MEK with a clean cloth, then sand 40-80 grit again (because wiping with acetone may have spread dirt or residue into the scratches). Use a paint brush and paint some mixed up resin onto the clean scratched up surface. Not a lot, just enough to get it wet. (This should already be done and waiting) - Fiberglass is a woven cloth. You'll almost always use the weave like small XXX's to get the most strength - what this means when you unravel the roll of fiberglass you get from Aircraft Spruce or wherever, you will cut strips of it on a 45 degree angle - ususally about 2 inches wide - or whatever you need) Do the layup as the link suggests - although I don't use a sponge to saturate, I just pour it on there and spread it out with my paint brush - I think the sponge might offer some contaminates but whatever works. Put plastic on the top and I use a long screw I got from Home Depot but Aircraft Spruce now has a tool that looks like a miniature rolling pin but it's grooved like a screw. Get it. Don't push too hard or not hard enough. You just want to squeeze out excess resin - that's it - if it gets white, you took out too much resin - put more back in. When you apply the sandwich, make sure you peel off the plastic. Sounds stupid but EVERYONE has done it. Use a colored plastic to remind you. When applied, use your long 4-6 inch screw or tool from ACS and push out as many air bubbles as you can without pushing out too much resin. You can do you over and over. If it's starting to cure, and you can't push out anymore, I use a pin to poke the air bubble until it escapes. I had a reaction to West System and switched to Jeffco which Aircraft Spruce sells. It is clear to greenish and has no smell. I like it better. The MOST important thing is the mixing ratio has to be perfect. After you have your mixture, you can do whatever you want with it - saturate the cloth, mix up micro, flox, or whatever. There are no set amounts of the fillers so if you want micro wet and runny, use less - if you want strength and less pinholes, use 90% micro bubbles and 10% cabosil - which looks like sugar but it contains some particles to prevent micro from sagging on vertical surfaces, but it also helps prevent pinholes somewhat. You will always have pinholes. There is some cool new stuff now called rage that is a cool filler guaranteed not to have pinholes but you'll still get a few. You asked about slow and fast hardeners. Use slow until you get the hang of it. But definately the factor on both is temperature. 70-75 is ideal. Never let mixed up resin sit around while you do something else. It will exotherm or boil and gets hot, smokes, and stinks. When you mix it up, get to it. There is no stopping resin from curing so if the phone rings, forget it - even if it's the Million dollar sweepstakes notifying you are a winner! Have a garbage can ready. Acetone will clean up messes pretty good. There's a thousand things I could tell you. Making the layup is just one step. Filling it is a whole other ball game. Never use filler over cured fiberglass without sanding and cleaning just as before - this time using about 120-180 grit. Make sure the clear appearance is gone. Clean with acetone, sand, vacuum and paint wet resin and apply filler. I use a razor blade to push it down into all the holes well without a lot of left over sanding to do. Here's a trick to save you some time. Use peel-ply exactly like a layer of glass. Make sure you have it on the TOP and not the bottom when you apply the layup. When cured, simply peel it off and no sanding or cleaning is necessary to apply more layers of fiberglass OR apply filler - still paint a thin layer of wet resin on it though if you need to fill. When mostly done, ONLY use 3M foam sanding blocks. Spray glue 100-180 grit to it. I'd use at least a 1 foot block and no less than 6 inches. Spray some crappy black spray paint on it - let it dry and sand at 45 degrees and then 90. You are looking for high and low spots. You will sand off high and the paint will show the low. Don't ruin the fiberglass by sanding too low just to get rid of the low spots. Sand and fill those spots with micro - micro/flox if they are deeper. Anyway, I hope this helps a little. My brother Danny (RV-7A) has a nice write up and description of the entire process with good pictures and it has some good pointers. I'll find that and send it to you too. Good luck. WEAR a mask. Matt Reeves Rochester, NY Bruce Patton wrote: That is a Masters Degree in dreaded fiberglass. The think that keeps it from being a PhD is he left out the sanding of the part that to which the fiberglass will be applied. Without that, you may have a wonderful mold of the part when the new glass peals off the old. Bruce Patton --------------------------------- Finding fabulous fares is fun. Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Crossbow vs Pinpoint
Last October I sat in a conference room at Crossbow and went over each problem they resolved. All of the problems were of the maturing variety and none pertained to core technical changes. I was quite puzzled by D2A "toss everything out" reactions. I met with Crossbow face-to-face and came away comfortable with their answers and their product and choose Crossbow for my WTD Aviation Technology primary flight display product. Two of these units have been installed to date and both work flawlessly. During 3 years of investigating and installing gyros it was apparent that the numbers you get from the gyro depends greatly on the installation. See the attached photos (yes- we turned the XBow around). By far the best location for the Crossbow is on a reinforced (stiffened) plate attached to the longerons using the same holes where the aft end of the rear shoulder harness cable connects to the longerons. In fact, the shoulder harness cable end was relocated to the plate. This location allows the gyro to be perfectly aligned with the aircraft axis and is magnetically minimized from the pitch servo and the trim servo. Don't let the small size of the trim servo fool you - it casts a magnetic field 20 inches from the unit. Note that the gyro was attached with brass screws. Looking over the possible locations for the gyro GPS antenna its obvious that the best probable location is the forward tip of the vertical stablizer and an easy location is just under the fiberglass fuselage to vertical stab fairing. Out of curiousity, I took the easy route and it has worked without fail. The antenna was aligned with the vertical stab to minimize the RF shadow. A status on my PFD shows when the gyro has locked the GPS constellation and it locks about one minute after I start my taxi from the hanger. Once locked on it has never dropped. If it starts dropping out then I will relocate the antenna to the vertical stab forward tip. The Crossbow gyro has the capability to calibrate its compass for hard iron interferrence. From my previous experience with gyros it was obvious that the Crossbow is very sensitive, so I included the commands necessary to begin and end this procedure into my PFD product. It is a quick and simple procedure that will maximize the accuracy. Now when I look back at D2A they look more like a kool-aid manufacturing company than an avionics distribution company. They slammed Crossbow far beyond sanity and then elevated Pinpoint to angel status - always positioning themselves as heros. Just now, I only believe what I can see and touch on this subject. And what I have seen is that Crossbow is a very good and very serious engineering company with experience producing (in quantity) solid state gyros. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, Flying billderou(at)yahoo.com Indran, You won't find much on the list yet for experiences from people flying with pinpoints, as I think I and Vic the only ones who are, in an RV-10. There are some other models of aircraft flying the pinpoint though. Having flown them both, I have some experience behind both of them with about 70 hours on the crossbow and 125 on the pinpoint. If Crossbow has all of the bugs completely worked out, which right now I would say still needs the test of time, then I think you could really use either. This isn't to say that I don't trust the product, because they have been much more forthcoming with information in recent months. I just think we need to see it re-develop a track record...different than the one it had previously developed. There's no reason why that unit couldn't be acceptable. The largest more recent problems were caused by issues with the GPS aiding that were supposedly fixed in software, so it very well could be good now. So, lets assume they are both good...then what? Well, the pinpoint will be a bit easier to install and does include some benefits as well. 1) It has a remote magnetometer which allows easier mounting in a magnetically stable location. It is actually quite hard to find a good location for the 425, because the best I could do at the time was above the battery, and it doesn't really get as far out of the area of the battery and AP servo for me to feel as comfortable with it. 2) The pinpoint comes with its own air data computer, and its highly accurate. It has been flown next to a known and tested air data unit in my plane that was also accurate to within 7' of altitude, and the airspeed on the 2 units matches perfectly too. So even if you have a 2nd air data system, you now have multiple systems that you can compare for data. 3) The algorithm within the pinpoint is not at all GPS dependent. In fact, the GPS is not internally connected at all to the AHRS, so you will never develop attitude related issues due to GPS signal loss. I have also tested mine by disconnecting in various ways the pitot and static lines during turning flight and that does not upset it either, so it should be very reliable. 4) The pinpoint does have a superior mounting and alignment software function. You can mount it oriented in any of the 4 directions, so you're not tied to one specific installation, and in fact you can mount it under the panel. And due to it's configuration software on the Chelton, you don't have to be as precise in regards to the level as others. The calibration procedure is accurate and much easier, and can be done without a PC...all from the screen. The downside to the pinpoint is really the delivery. I don't know any of the recent specifics as to shipping time, but I'm sure you could get a Crossbow in short order, where you may wait 30-60 days I'd suppose for the pinpoint. As for your comment about strong ties to D2A, I won't go too into it on this forum, but whereas the pinpoint was perhaps strongly tied to D2A before, that's just because they were the only distributor. In fact, today I would say that there are no companies with "strong ties" to D2A, because Chelton itself is distributing the pinpoint, and they are also involved in suing D2A....so there are no warm fuzzies even by them for the people at D2A. Products are products, and should be judged on their product quality. Politics aren't really things that enhance the ability to choose the right product. There were lots of bad things happening by multiple parties a year ago. At present, I think the real bad eggs are now expunged and what's left is the same products being offered, but from a more reliable source. And Crossbow has really whipped themselves into a good playing team too...so you really can't go too awful wrong today. What you really should do is dig in though on the Chelton EFIS forum at http://www.CheltonEFISpilots.com, because there you should be able to ask these questions and get responses from a much higher number of people who can respond with actual in-flight experience with either. With either system, make sure you do a real "by the book" install and you'll likely have success. The pinpoint just makes the job easier by it's design. Hopefully we'll eventually see a similar unit available by another manufacturer like Crossbow, as the design itself is much easier to work with. For the small price difference today though, I myself would choose the pinpoint if I was in your shoes. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Indran Chelvanayagam wrote: > Guys, as part of the D2A recovery package from Lancair avionics, I've > been offered the choice between a Pinpoint and a Crossbow 425EX AHRS > (Crossbow is cheaper) > > I realise that Crossbow had problems with this model, but they claim to > have fixed them all > On the other hand, Pinpoint is a relatively "new" (and small?) company, > with strong ties to D2A. > > What are the experiences regarding installing & flying these different > units? > > Indran > #40228 > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend?
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Imron (DuPont tm) was the rage twenty years ago (oh gosh, it was over 30) when I painted a Frat Fire truck and a bunch of Corvettes. It was the first beer or fuel impervious paint. Due to my affinity for BMWs, I have come to appreciate the Sikkens line. Azko does pretty well as an alternative. For downright common sense and cost, I think both Randy and Tim hit it on the head with PPG White. Randy's was GMC color and Tim's was Base tint. You can't get closer for panel repair after a hangar rash incident. Scott, you can pipe in here about your tail and your Pearl. We have missed your posts... your night shots are beautiful. Two part catalytic or Clear Topcoat sanded with 1500 or 2000 and then three step power buff cannot be beat. But then again it's just an opinion and boy does it take hours (days). I hear Deems chuckle in the background that I just slid back to a completion date in 2021. John ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Reeves Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 8:53 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: What starter materials for fiberglass would you recommend? Thanks for the kind words John!! I'm more than happy to help out anyone who has questions with fiberglass. I'm not an expert, just a guy with an opinion and a hell of a lot of sanding under my belt!! <http://us.i1.yimg.com/us.yimg.com/i/mesg/tsmileys2/04.gif> mattreeves(at)yahoo.com John, what's your opinion on Sikkens vs. Imron? I've always used Imron 5 & 6000 and LOVE it but heard Sikkens is more user friendly. I did see an RV-7A painted with Sikkens and buffed to perfection and it was awesome! Just wondering. Have a great day. Matt "John W. Cox" wrote: Matt, after thirty years of car restoration and yes, aircraft painting. I can clearly endorse your below post as a treatise for a "Masters in Fiberglas" in 1,000 words or less (935 to be exact). RV-10 builders should use this as a roadmap to their diploma's as well. They may have a little trouble with visualization of some of the products right now, but in time, they will go Wow, "Matt really knew his stuff". Lance was right, if it's not Clean it won't stick. If the air is too humid, it won't stick. 70-75 the porridge should be just right. That is air temperature and the temperature of the resin. John Cox ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Crossbow vs Pinpoint
Date: Feb 18, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Bill your comments on brass hardware rather than S. steel is a great post specially for sailors. I am curious about other builders determining where the CG and CL is on their aircraft. Lycoming reports that the CG on their engine is 0.5" below the crankshaft centerline. The human torso has a CG even lower sitting on those Oregon Aero seats. Wouldn't the cross mount to longeron actually be about 3.5" higher than perfection. And is that a determination on magnetic, ferrous and electro-magnetic neutrality? I am considering a further aft and outboard to the starboard, battery tray and was wondering about such things. I am aware that VAN declares 112.3" aft of datum the perfect CG. That would put it right in the middle of Deems Console under his lid. John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Crossbow vs Pinpoint Last October I sat in a conference room at Crossbow and went over each problem they resolved. All of the problems were of the maturing variety and none pertained to core technical changes. I was quite puzzled by D2A "toss everything out" reactions. I met with Crossbow face-to-face and came away comfortable with their answers and their product and choose Crossbow for my WTD Aviation Technology primary flight display product. Two of these units have been installed to date and both work flawlessly. During 3 years of investigating and installing gyros it was apparent that the numbers you get from the gyro depends greatly on the installation. See the attached photos (yes- we turned the XBow around). By far the best location for the Crossbow is on a reinforced (stiffened) plate attached to the longerons using the same holes where the aft end of the rear shoulder harness cable connects to the longerons. In fact, the shoulder harness cable end was relocated to the plate. This location allows the gyro to be perfectly aligned with the aircraft axis and is magnetically minimized from the pitch servo and the trim servo. Don't let the small size of the trim servo fool you - it casts a magnetic field 20 inches from the unit. Note that the gyro was attached with brass screws. Looking over the possible locations for the gyro GPS antenna its obvious that the best probable location is the forward tip of the vertical stablizer and an easy location is just under the fiberglass fuselage to vertical stab fairing. Out of curiousity, I took the easy route and it has worked without fail. The antenna was aligned with the vertical stab to minimize the RF shadow. A status on my PFD shows when the gyro has locked the GPS constellation and it locks about one minute after I start my taxi from the hanger. Once locked on it has never dropped. If it starts dropping out then I will relocate the antenna to the vertical stab forward tip. The Crossbow gyro has the capability to calibrate its compass for hard iron interferrence. From my previous experience with gyros it was obvious that the Crossbow is very sensitive, so I included the commands necessary to begin and end this procedure into my PFD product. It is a quick and simple procedure that will maximize the accuracy. Now when I look back at D2A they look more like a kool-aid manufacturing company than an avionics distribution company. They slammed Crossbow far beyond sanity and then elevated Pinpoint to angel status - always positioning themselves as heros. Just now, I only believe what I can see and touch on this subject. And what I have seen is that Crossbow is a very good and very serious engineering company with experience producing (in quantity) solid state gyros. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, Flying billderou(at)yahoo.com <http://us.f344.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=billderou@yahoo.com> Tim Olson wrote: Indran, You won't find much on the list yet for experiences from people flying with pinpoints, as I think I and Vic the only ones who are, in an RV-10. There are some other models of aircraft flying the pinpoint though. Having flown them both, I have some experience behind both of them with about 70 hours on the crossbow and 125 on the pinpoint. If Crossbow has all of the bugs completely worked out, which right now I would say still needs the test of time, then I think you could really use either. This isn't to say that I don't trust the product, because they have been much more forthcoming with information in recent months. I just think we need to see it re-develop a track record...different than the one it had previously developed. There's no reason why that unit couldn't be acceptable. The largest more recent problems were caused by issues with the GPS aiding that were supposedly fixed in software, so it very well could be good now. So, lets assume they are both good...then what? Well, the pinpoint will be a bit easier to install and does include some benefits as well. 1) It has a remote magnetometer which allows easier mounting in a magnetically stable location. It is actually quite hard to find a good location for the 425, because the best I could do at the time was above the battery, and it doesn't really get as far out of the area of the battery and AP servo for me to feel as comfortable with it. 2) The pinpoint comes with its own air data computer, and its highly accurate. It has been flown next to a known and tested air data unit in my plane that was also accurate to within 7' of altitude, and the airspeed on the 2 units matches perfectly too. So even if you have a 2nd air data system, you now have multiple systems that you can compare for data. 3) The algorithm within the pinpoint is not at all GPS dependent. In fact, the GPS is not internally connected at all to the AHRS, so you will never develop attitude related issues due to GPS signal loss. I have also tested mine by disconnecting in various ways the pitot and static lines during turning flight and that does not upset it either, so it should be very reliable. 4) The pinpoint does have a superior mounting and alignment software function. You can mount it oriented in any of the 4 directions, so you're not tied to one specific installation, and in fact you can mount it under the panel. And due to it's configuration software on the Chelton, you don't have to be as precise in regards to the level as others. The calibration procedure is accurate and much easier, and can be done without a PC...all from the screen. The downside to the pinpoint is really the delivery. I don't know any of the recent specifics as to shipping time, but I'm sure you could get a Crossbow in short order, where you may wait 30-60 days I'd suppose for the pinpoint. As for your comment about strong ties to D2A, I won't go too into it on this forum, but whereas the pinpoint was perhaps strongly tied to D2A before, that's just because they were the only distributor. In fact, today I would say that there are no companies with "strong ties" to D2A, because Chelton itself is distributing the pinpoint, and they are also involved in suing D2A....so there are no warm fuzzies even by them for the people at D2A. Products are products, and should be judged on their product quality. Politics aren't really things that enhance the ability to choose the right product. There were lots of bad things happening by multiple parties a year ago. At present, I think the real bad eggs are now expunged and what's left is the same products being offered, but from a more reliable source. And Crossbow has really whipped themselves into a good playing team too...so you really can't go too awful wrong today. What you really should do is dig in though on the Chelton EFIS forum at http://www.CheltonEFISpilots.com, because there you should be able to ask these questions and get responses from a much higher number of people who can respond with actual in-flight experience with either. With either system, make sure you do a real "by the book" install and you'll likely have success. The pinpoint just makes the job easier by it's design. Hopefully we'll eventually see a similar unit available by another manufacturer like Crossbow, as the design itself is much easier to work with. For the small price difference today though, I myself would choose the pinpoint if I was in your shoes. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Indran Chelvanayagam wrote: > Guys, as part of the D2A recovery package from Lancair avionics, I've > been offered the choice between a Pinpoint and a Crossbow 425EX AHRS > (Crossbow is cheaper) > > I realise that Crossbow had problems with this model, but they claim to > have fixed them all > On the other hand, Pinpoint is a relatively "new" (and small?) company, > with strong ties to D2A. > > What are the experiences regarding installing & flying these different ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Experimental Inquiry
Date: Feb 19, 2007
I am having Experimental put on the side panels below the rear seat arm rests. It is as near the door as if it was put on the door itself when the door is open. Russ Daves N710RV - First flight 7/28/06 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: tubing bender
Date: Feb 19, 2007
I need to order a tubing bender from Avery today, for the brake and fuel lines. Should have orderred it when I orderred my flaring tool! Any recommendations. I see that there are spring type overserts and then there is the break type bender around a radius. Should I get both and what are the differences between the break types? Thanks, John G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: tubing bender
I use the brake type bender (the one with the radius), which has never failed me in the many years I have had it ( I've done more than just the RV lines). The only time when it was a bit cumbersome was when a friend was trying to bend his fuel line that attaches to the tank in his RV-8; There isn't as much room in there to get it in (I managed to get it to work), and this is where I might think the spring type might have been useful. Remember, if you kink a line, don't unkink it; replace it! -Jim 40384 John Gonzalez wrote: > > I need to order a tubing bender from Avery today, for the brake and > fuel lines. Should have orderred it when I orderred my flaring tool! > > Any recommendations. I see that there are spring type overserts and > then there is the break type bender around a radius. Should I get both > and what are the differences between the break types? > > Thanks, > > John G. 409 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: tubing bender
Dave's RV-7A Building log has a good article on tube bending. He recommends the imperial 370-FH. It is a 180 degree bender. The article is here <http://www.dualrudder.com/rv7/tube-bending> Larry Rosen #356 James Hein wrote: > > I use the brake type bender (the one with the radius), which has never > failed me in the many years I have had it ( I've done more than just > the RV lines). > The only time when it was a bit cumbersome was when a friend was > trying to bend his fuel line that attaches to the tank in his RV-8; > There isn't as much room in there to get it in (I managed to get it to > work), and this is where I might think the spring type might have been > useful. > > Remember, if you kink a line, don't unkink it; replace it! > > -Jim 40384 > > John Gonzalez wrote: > >> >> >> I need to order a tubing bender from Avery today, for the brake and >> fuel lines. Should have orderred it when I orderred my flaring tool! >> >> Any recommendations. I see that there are spring type overserts and >> then there is the break type bender around a radius. Should I get >> both and what are the differences between the break types? >> >> Thanks, >> >> John G. 409 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: Rick <ricksked(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Whelen A-500A Strobe Installation
Well I hope the judges don't have to use our tail lights to determne the Lindy, I'd lose!! ;) I just mounted normally in the 1 " hole with two lock nuts and screws, a little vasoline on the screws to keep them from sticking, mixed some thick epoxy flox and buried the nuts in the flox. Rick S. 40185 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: Tim Lewis <Tim_Lewis(at)msm.umr.edu>
Subject: Re: tubing bender
I've found having both is handy. -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 850 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction John Gonzalez wrote: > > I need to order a tubing bender from Avery today, for the brake and > fuel lines. Should have orderred it when I orderred my flaring tool! > > Any recommendations. I see that there are spring type overserts and > then there is the break type bender around a radius. Should I get both > and what are the differences between the break types? > > Thanks, > > John G. 409 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV_10" <john_rv10(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: CAD Drawings
Date: Feb 20, 2007
Hi Jesse, Is it possible for you and the others who have done their electrical diags to put your items onto a common list on Tim's site for all to access? Thank you in advance, John Cleary _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint Sent: Saturday, 17 February 2007 2:23 PM Subject: RV10-List: CAD Drawings Does anybody have a link where I can download CAD drawings of common instrument panel items, like switches, breakers and namely, the standard Mag switch? Is there a library anyway like the Aero Electric one for electrical drawings? By the way, I'm using TurboCAD. I do have a bunch of items that I have drawn myself, which people are welcome to use if they need to. Contact me offline if you need something and I will let you know if I have it. Thanks. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>
Subject: tubing bender
Date: Feb 19, 2007
On one occasion I had to make a tight bend in 3/8" tubing, but both of these type tube benders produced a kink in the tubing. For this one bend I took a short piece of tubing, flared both ends (after putting on the nuts), filled it with sand and then capped off the ends. After making the bend I trimmed the tubing to fit and re-flared. It took about three tries to get it right. If you do this make sure you use air to blow out the sand, followed by a flush. I found the fine grain sand at craft stores to work best. Carl Froehlich -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 3:36 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: tubing bender I've found having both is handy. -- Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD -- 850 hrs RV-10 #40059 under construction John Gonzalez wrote: > > I need to order a tubing bender from Avery today, for the brake and > fuel lines. Should have orderred it when I orderred my flaring tool! > > Any recommendations. I see that there are spring type overserts and > then there is the break type bender around a radius. Should I get both > and what are the differences between the break types? > > Thanks, > > John G. 409 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: Phil White <philwhite9(at)aol.com>
Subject: [Fwd: Partner sought for Chicago area -10 already half-built]
To all: I am building an RV-10 in Downers Grove, IL, and nearing 3 years into the project find my financial situation changing. I am seeking a partner who would like to share ownership and use of an RV-10 while investing only *half* the time and money to arrive at that goal. The project is presently at the point of installing doors and windows. When those are finished, only the gear install remains to complete the airframe. Of course, panel, wiring and engine install will likely take another year or two. If you are interested in learning the details, seeing the project, or merely discussing the possibilities; email or call me, 630/985-1234. Phil White ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: CAD Drawings
Date: Feb 19, 2007
I am uploading some drawings to www.saintaviation.com/downloads for those of you who may want them. There is more stuff uploading, but it will take some time on my slow connection. Please feel free to use what you would like. Let me know if you have any questions or if you find this info useful. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Crossbow vs Pinpoint
John- Its impossible to locate the gyro at the CG of all axis [fuel & people variances?] so the consideration that I use is what is the best location that the unit will provide excellent information. "Perfectly aligned" as I used the phrase is meant to be parallel with each axis. It may be offset from the origin but should not so far to affect the numbers in a meaningful way. So, I recommended the aft gyro location based upon the following criteria and in the following priority: 1. Location that can be "aligned" (parallel) to all three axis as close as possible. 2. Minimum offset from roll axis (Roll axis moves fastest and distance from this origin will create large errors. IE: not out on wing) 3. Area where the magnetism is constant (not near baggage area) 4. Minimum surrounding magnetic fields 5. No strobe, battery, nor navigation wires The value of setting the plate on the longerons is an immediate 2 axis alignment - pitch and roll. By running a string through the length of the cabin yaw orientation can be easily determined. All internal Xbow sensors are aligned physically and by calibration to the mounting holes. A much more difficult mounting would be some inches lower that would align with origin of the roll axis. However, the gain is small compared to the effort - and it now allows the other two axis to vary. Deems- I think you have "pinpointed" the missing piece of the D2A story. Were they making purely emotional decisions? Were they technically clueless and thinking solid state gyros are a commodity? Were they motivated from themselves or another influential third party investing in Pinpoint and it was all a cleverly planned ruse? Yep. When this information becomes public then we will have the whole story. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, flying billderou(at)yahoo.com "John W. Cox" wrote: Bill your comments on brass hardware rather than S. steel is a great post specially for sailors. I am curious about other builders determining where the CG and CL is on their aircraft. Lycoming reports that the CG on their engine is 0.5 below the crankshaft centerline. The human torso has a CG even lower sitting on those Oregon Aero seats. Wouldnt the cross mount to longeron actually be about 3.5 higher than perfection. And is that a determination on magnetic, ferrous and electro-magnetic neutrality? I am considering a further aft and outboard to the starboard, battery tray and was wondering about such things. I am aware that VAN declares 112.3 aft of datum the perfect CG. That would put it right in the middle of Deems Console under his lid. John Cox --------------------------------- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill DeRouchey Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 9:16 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Crossbow vs Pinpoint Last October I sat in a conference room at Crossbow and went over each problem they resolved. All of the problems were of the maturing variety and none pertained to core technical changes. I was quite puzzled by D2A "toss everything out" reactions. I met with Crossbow face-to-face and came away comfortable with their answers and their product and choose Crossbow for my WTD Aviation Technology primary flight display product. Two of these units have been installed to date and both work flawlessly. During 3 years of investigating and installing gyros it was apparent that the numbers you get from the gyro depends greatly on the installation. See the attached photos (yes- we turned the XBow around). By far the best location for the Crossbow is on a reinforced (stiffened) plate attached to the longerons using the same holes where the aft end of the rear shoulder harness cable connects to the longerons. In fact, the shoulder harness cable end was relocated to the plate. This location allows the gyro to be perfectly aligned with the aircraft axis and is magnetically minimized from the pitch servo and the trim servo. Don't let the small size of the trim servo fool you - it casts a magnetic field 20 inches from the unit. Note that the gyro was attached with brass screws. Looking over the possible locations for the gyro GPS antenna its obvious that the best probable location is the forward tip of the vertical stablizer and an easy location is just under the fiberglass fuselage to vertical stab fairing. Out of curiousity, I took the easy route and it has worked without fail. The antenna was aligned with the vertical stab to minimize the RF shadow. A status on my PFD shows when the gyro has locked the GPS constellation and it locks about one minute after I start my taxi from the hanger. Once locked on it has never dropped. If it starts dropping out then I will relocate the antenna to the vertical stab forward tip. The Crossbow gyro has the capability to calibrate its compass for hard iron interferrence. From my previous experience with gyros it was obvious that the Crossbow is very sensitive, so I included the commands necessary to begin and end this procedure into my PFD product. It is a quick and simple procedure that will maximize the accuracy. Now when I look back at D2A they look more like a kool-aid manufacturing company than an avionics distribution company. They slammed Crossbow far beyond sanity and then elevated Pinpoint to angel status - always positioning themselves as heros. Just now, I only believe what I can see and touch on this subject. And what I have seen is that Crossbow is a very good and very serious engineering company with experience producing (in quantity) solid state gyros. Bill DeRouchey N939SB, Flying billderou(at)yahoo.com Tim Olson wrote: Indran, You won't find much on the list yet for experiences from people flying with pinpoints, as I think I and Vic the only ones who are, in an RV-10. There are some other models of aircraft flying the pinpoint though. Having flown them both, I have some experience behind both of them with about 70 hours on the crossbow and 125 on the pinpoint. If Crossbow has all of the bugs completely worked out, which right now I would say still needs the test of time, then I think you could really use either. This isn't to say that I don't trust the product, because they have been much more forthcoming with information in recent months. I just think we need to see it re-develop a track record...different than the one it had previously developed. There's no reason why that unit couldn't be acceptable. The largest more recent problems were caused by issues with the GPS aiding that were supposedly fixed in software, so it very well could be good now. So, lets assume they are both good...then what? Well, the pinpoint will be a bit easier to install and does include some benefits as well. 1) It has a remote magnetometer which allows easier mounting in a magnetically stable location. It is actually quite hard to find a good location for the 425, because the best I could do at the time was above the battery, and it doesn't really get as far out of the area of the battery and AP servo for me to feel as comfortable with it. 2) The pinpoint comes with its own air data computer, and its highly accurate. It has been flown next to a known and tested air data unit in my plane that was also accurate to within 7' of altitude, and the airspeed on the 2 units matches perfectly too. So even if you have a 2nd air data system, you now have multiple systems that you can compare for data. 3) The algorithm within the pinpoint is not at all GPS dependent. In fact, the GPS is not internally connected at all to the AHRS, so you will never develop attitude related issues due to GPS signal loss. I have also tested mine by disconnecting in various ways the pitot and static lines during turning flight and that does not upset it either, so it should be very reliable. 4) The pinpoint does have a superior mounting and alignment software function. You can mount it oriented in any of the 4 directions, so you're not tied to one specific installation, and in fact you can mount it under the panel. And due to it's configuration software on the Chelton, you don't have to be as precise in regards to the level as others. The calibration procedure is accurate and much easier, and can be done without a PC...all from the screen. The downside to the pinpoint is really the delivery. I don't know any of the recent specifics as to shipping time, but I'm sure you could get a Crossbow in short order, where you may wait 30-60 days I'd suppose for the pinpoint. As for your comment about strong ties to D2A, I won't go too into it on this forum, but whereas the pinpoint was perhaps strongly tied to D2A before, that's just because they were the only distributor. In fact, today I would say that there are no companies with "strong ties" to D2A, because Chelton itself is distributing the pinpoint, and they are also involved in suing D2A....so there are no warm fuzzies even by them for the people at D2A. Products are products, and should be judged on their product quality. Politics aren't really things that enhance the ability to choose the right product. There were lots of bad things happening by multiple parties a year ago. At present, I think the real bad eggs are now expunged and what's left is the same products being offered, but from a more reliable source. And Crossbow has really whipped themselves into a good playing team too...so you really can't go too awful wrong today. What you really should do is dig in though on the Chelton EFIS forum at http://www.CheltonEFISpilots.com, because there you should be able to ask these questions and get responses from a much higher number of people who can respond with actual in-flight experience with either. With either system, make sure you do a real "by the book" install and you'll likely have success. The pinpoint just makes the job easier by it's design. Hopefully we'll eventually see a similar unit available by another manufacturer like Crossbow, as the design itself is much easier to work with. For the small price difference today though, I myself would choose the pinpoint if I was in your shoes. Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying Indran Chelvanayagam wrote: > Guys, as part of the D2A recovery package from Lancair avionics, I've > been offered the choice between a Pinpoint and a Crossbow 425EX AHRS > (Crossbow is cheaper) > > I realise that Crossbow had problems with this model, but they claim to > have fixed them all > On the other hand, Pinpoint is a relatively "new" (and small?) company, > with strong ties to D2A. > > What are the experiences regarding installing & flying these different ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: Thane States <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: Headliner Install
Hello to you all. I am new to posting on this site, but I thought I would share something about the headliner install debacle. I will be using the flight line interior from Abby. As many of you know it is difficult to get a good finished look around the windows. Here is what I did: After carefully installing my headliner, trimming around edges, and then using a soldering iron to seal the edges. I used "Style Guard" Door trim, for automobiles, purchased from Pep Boys; 25' roll,(Black) I carefully put it around the window edges, using a putty knife to help it over the edge and keep the fabric from pushing out. I then used a heat gun to set the glue and it turned out beautiful. For the tight corners, I applied some heat to the trim to help it bend around. Once you do this, the glue will want to close up the trim, so again I just ran a putty knife between it to help it over the edge. If anyone would like any further info, I would be happy to share what worked for me. I don't know if anyone else used this technique, but I am very pleased with the result. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Testement" <jwt(at)roadmapscoaching.com>
Subject: Headliner Install
Date: Feb 19, 2007
Can you post some photos? John _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 7:14 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Headliner Install Hello to you all. I am new to posting on this site, but I thought I would share something about the headliner install debacle. I will be using the flight line interior from Abby. As many of you know it is difficult to get a good finished look around the windows. Here is what I did: After carefully installing my headliner, trimming around edges, and then using a soldering iron to seal the edges. I used "Style Guard" Door trim, for automobiles, purchased from Pep Boys; 25' roll,(Black) I carefully put it around the window edges, using a putty knife to help it over the edge and keep the fabric from pushing out. I then used a heat gun to set the glue and it turned out beautiful. For the tight corners, I applied some heat to the trim to help it bend around. Once you do this, the glue will want to close up the trim, so again I just ran a putty knife between it to help it over the edge. If anyone would like any further info, I would be happy to share what worked for me. I don't know if anyone else used this technique, but I am very pleased with the result. "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Navig ator?RV10-List -- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: NACA vent finish kit?
Date: Feb 19, 2007
Quick question...are the front NACA vent intakes in the finish kit ot fuselage? Thanks CHris Lucas #40072 slow build fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net>
Subject: NACA vent finish kit?
Date: Feb 19, 2007
Hi Chris: Mine were in the finishing kit.. I had the same question. Byron #40253 Finishing up stuff waiting on the panel. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 8:40 PM Subject: RV10-List: NACA vent finish kit? Quick question...are the front NACA vent intakes in the finish kit ot fuselage? Thanks CHris Lucas #40072 slow build fuselage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Eric Parlow" <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat
Date: Feb 19, 2007
Who's going? 4th Annual RV Fly-In at I39 in Madison, KY Forecast is for partly sunny and 62. I'm flying from Williamsport, PA in the Archer. ERic-- 40014 N104EP Fiberglass ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2007
From: Thane States <thane2(at)comporium.net>
Subject: Re: Headliner Install
Here are the pictures from my Headliner Installation. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Testement To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 7:40 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Headliner Install Can you post some photos? John ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thane States Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 7:14 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Headliner Install Hello to you all. I am new to posting on this site, but I thought I would share something about the headliner install debacle. I will be using the flight line interior from Abby. As many of you know it is difficult to get a good finished look around the windows. Here is what I did: After carefully installing my headliner, trimming around edges, and then using a soldering iron to seal the edges. I used "Style Guard" Door trim, for automobiles, purchased from Pep Boys; 25' roll,(Black) I carefully put it around the window edges, using a putty knife to help it over the edge and keep the fabric from pushing out. I then used a heat gun to set the glue and it turned out beautiful. For the tight corners, I applied some heat to the trim to help it bend around. Once you do this, the glue will want to close up the trim, so again I just ran a putty knife between it to help it over the edge. If anyone would like any further info, I would be happy to share what worked for me. I don't know if anyone else used this technique, but I am very pleased with the result. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic s.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com -- No virus found in this Edition. -- 2/18/2007 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: NACA vent finish kit?
Date: Feb 19, 2007
Thanks Byron ..I'll go back to sleep...uh building that is. ----- Original Message ----- From: Byron Gillespie To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 9:04 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: NACA vent finish kit? Hi Chris: Mine were in the finishing kit.. I had the same question. Byron #40253 Finishing up stuff waiting on the panel. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 8:40 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: NACA vent finish kit? Quick question...are the front NACA vent intakes in the finish kit ot fuselage? Thanks CHris Lucas #40072 slow build fuselage http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat
Date: Feb 19, 2007
I'm planning on coming down from Dayton in an Arrow (been there the last 4 years and it's a great get together). Bruce 40353 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 9:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat Who's going? 4th Annual RV Fly-In at I39 in Madison, KY Forecast is for partly sunny and 62. I'm flying from Williamsport, PA in the Archer. ERic-- 40014 N104EP Fiberglass ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GenGrumpy(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 19, 2007
Subject: Re: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat
Anybody have more details?? grumpy 40404 In a message dated 2/19/2007 9:53:27 PM Central Standard Time, snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net writes: I'm planning on coming down from Dayton in an Arrow (been there the last 4 years and it's a great get together). Bruce 40353 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 9:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat Who's going? 4th Annual RV Fly-In at I39 in Madison, KY Forecast is for partly sunny and 62. I'm flying from Williamsport, PA in the Archer. ERic-- 40014 N104EP Fiberglass ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Experimental Inquiry
Date: Feb 20, 2007
Wayne asked me to post this. He is having some problems posting: Russ Daves With regards to the discussion on placing the "Experimental" marking on the inside of the plane, here is the FAR that covers this. But having looked at several planes it appear it isn't always followed. Wayne Edgerton #40336 =A7 45.23 Display of marks; general (a) Each operator of an aircraft shall display on that aircraft marks consisting of the Roman capital letter "N" (denoting United States registration) followed by the registration number of the aircraft. Each suffix letter used in the marks displayed must also be a Roman capital letter. (b) When marks that include only the Roman capital letter "N" and the registration number are displayed on limited or restricted category aircraft or experimental or provisionally certificated aircraft, the operator shall also display on that aircraft near each entrance to the cabin or cockpit, in letters not less than 2 inches nor more than 6 inches in height, the words "limited," "restricted," "experimental," or "provisional airworthiness," as the case may be. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "llsbiii3(at)netzero.net" <llsbiii3(at)netzero.net>
Date: Feb 20, 2007
Subject: Re: tubing bender
Take a look at the Imperial 470. It has a smaller radius and will bend a 180. At Aircraft spruce for less than $40. Sherman Butler Idaho Falls.

 

Take a look at the Imperial 470.  It has a smaller radius and will bend a 180.< SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">  At Aircraft spruce for le ss than $40.

 

Sherman Butler

Idaho Falls.


      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2007
From: "James K Hovis" <james.k.hovis(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Experimental Inquiry
Russ / Wayne, The intent here is to give warning to "unsuspecting" passengers that the airplane they are geting into is NOT a TC type aircraft. As long as the required placards are visible to the passengers when they enter the aircraft, they can be applied just about anywhere and the DAR should approve. The reg doesn't mean the placard has to be on the outside of the aircraft. Personally, I'd rather have a placard that said: " This aircraft was built by the person sitting to your left (or ahead/behind as the case may be). If you do not trust that this person built this aircraft correctly or has the capacity to be an effective pilot, then get the hell out of the airplane." Kevin H. On 2/20/07, Russell Daves wrote: > Wayne asked me to post this. He is having some problems posting: > > Russ Daves > > With regards to the discussion on placing the "Experimental" marking on the > inside of the plane, here is the FAR that covers this. But having looked at > several planes it appear it isn't always followed. > > Wayne Edgerton #40336 > > 45.23 Display of marks; general > (a) Each operator of an aircraft shall display on that aircraft marks > consisting of the Roman capital letter "N" (denoting United States > registration) followed by the registration number of the aircraft. Each > suffix letter used in the marks displayed must also be a Roman capital > letter. > > (b) When marks that include only the Roman capital letter "N" and the > registration number are displayed on limited or restricted category aircraft > or experimental or provisionally certificated aircraft, the operator shall > also display on that aircraft near each entrance to the cabin or cockpit, in > letters not less than 2 inches nor more than 6 inches in height, the words > "limited," "restricted," "experimental," or "provisional airworthiness," as > the case may be. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: tubing cutter??
Date: Feb 20, 2007
I should have asked this question yesterday when I asked about the tubing bender. What are people using to cut the tubing. Does anyone make a cutter similar to the ones used in plumbing for cutting copper pipe? I don't seem to see anything advertised, or is it easy enough to cut the tube with a dremel and seperating disk? Suggestions. Thanks, JOhn G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2007
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: tubing bender
John, FWIW, I like the benders (break types?) with long handles ...... more expensive than the 'aviation' benders (which Harbor Freight also sells for smaller ODs) but far easier to get good bends. Check McMaster-carr or Grainger. The 'Springy' benders are for ...... Hmmm, what are they for???? Linn John Gonzalez wrote: > > I need to order a tubing bender from Avery today, for the brake and > fuel lines. Should have orderred it when I orderred my flaring tool! > > Any recommendations. I see that there are spring type overserts and > then there is the break type bender around a radius. Should I get both > and what are the differences between the break types? > > Thanks, > > John G. 409 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2007
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: tubing bender
Great idea, but use sugar instead of sand. It washes out clean!!!! Linn Carl Froehlich wrote: > >On one occasion I had to make a tight bend in 3/8" tubing, but both of these >type tube benders produced a kink in the tubing. For this one bend I took a >short piece of tubing, flared both ends (after putting on the nuts), filled >it with sand and then capped off the ends. After making the bend I trimmed >the tubing to fit and re-flared. It took about three tries to get it right. > >If you do this make sure you use air to blow out the sand, followed by a >flush. > >I found the fine grain sand at craft stores to work best. > >Carl Froehlich > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Tim Lewis >Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 3:36 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV10-List: tubing bender > > >I've found having both is handy. > >-- >Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) >RV-6A N47TD -- 850 hrs >RV-10 #40059 under construction > > >John Gonzalez wrote: > > >> >>I need to order a tubing bender from Avery today, for the brake and >>fuel lines. Should have orderred it when I orderred my flaring tool! >> >>Any recommendations. I see that there are spring type overserts and >>then there is the break type bender around a radius. Should I get both >>and what are the differences between the break types? >> >>Thanks, >> >>John G. 409 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bruce Snyder" <snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat
Date: Feb 20, 2007
There is usually a formation flyover or two. They also have door prizes that are donated from various companies. Donuts and coffee in the morning, Hooters wings for lunch, complete with a few Hooters girls. All for whatever you want to donate. Lots of RVs with the ramp/taxiways full so get there as early as you can, especially if the weather is nice. Bruce 40353 Fuselage _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GenGrumpy(at)aol.com Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 10:55 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat Anybody have more details?? grumpy 40404 In a message dated 2/19/2007 9:53:27 PM Central Standard Time, snyderbd888(at)sbcglobal.net writes: I'm planning on coming down from Dayton in an Arrow (been there the last 4 years and it's a great get together). Bruce 40353 Fuselage -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric Parlow Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 9:21 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV Fly-In, Madison, Ky, I39, This Sat Who's going? 4th Annual RV Fly-In at I39 in Madison, KY Forecast is for partly sunny and 62. I'm flying from Williamsport, PA in the Archer. ERic-- 40014 N104EP Fiberglass ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Date: Feb 20, 2007
Linn, I like the idea on the panel. I'd be interested in hearing more about your panel choices. Tim, sorry for the confusion: no I don't plan to borrow all 150k, but for budgeting I think it is good to plan for the lost earnings that those dollars could be used for if not tied up in an aircraft (or toy). I am interested in cost savings though: Specifically, if an IFR RV-10 is a must (even if using steam gauges), what is the lowest reasonable target figure? I find it very hard to come in at <130. But I have heard several say lower. What am I missing? I have heard the following suggestions which I like very much: Don't paint right away. -Jesse, how does this change if stored outside? Store RV-10 outside (ouch, I don't know if I can live with this). How well will an RV-10 endure VA weather with covers? If I know up front it will be stored outside, any special priming areas I should consider? Save money on engine - don't get new (with conflicting ideas on how much this saves) - various posters Buy steam gauges for first panel (but still IFR), wait to go glass IFR for later if mission/desires dictate. Try to keep panel instruments from first panel revision, useful for 2nd panel down the road. - Linn Go slow build to save...-various John, thanks for your thoughts. I appreciate the comparison with the Archer and like Jesse's idea about fewer wasted pit stops. Bill, thanks for your comparison of the archer. I would be interested if you have any numbers on how much savings can be expected in the maintenance. What would be your yearly numbers for each? What would others consider a minimalist RV-10 IFR panel? Thanks for all your help, Best regards, Jim Clark On Feb 20, 2007, at 4:45 PM, linn Walters wrote: > James, It's really hard to compare a new RV-10 with a '76 Archer. > If you do, the $150K for the comparable RV-10 is way too high ..... > mostly because of the panel comparison. The Archer has older > radios and steam gauges ..... and they can be had comparably cheap > on the used market. I think 100K is a more reasonable figure for > the -10 unless you get really wild with glass panel and avionics. > There's also the auto-pilot in the Archer (if it has one) Vs. a new > GPSS compatible autopilot in the -10. You also need to consider > your mission ..... how you fly. When I started gathering info on > the -10, I looked at a full glass-panel and IFR capable GPS and > autopilot. I've now backed off and am considering an 'Archer > panel' and will build the fancy one ..... IF MY MISSION REQUIRES > IT. Almost all the stuff in the simple panel will be used in a > fancy panel .... with the exception of a few guages. > > You also have to balance your time spent building the RV-10 (which > is going to be much faster) Vs. the slower Archer .... again, a > mission thingy. I didn't look at all the costs .... because I know > nothing of either the Archer or the RV-10. There is also some > value of being able to install just about anything 'new' in your > RV-10 without having to worry about expensive STCs and 337s ...... > which you'll need to get the Archer to the level of the RV-10. > > Sorry I didn't answer your question, but I hope I gave you > something to ponder .... as if you really needed it!!! > Linn > > James S. Clark IV wrote: > >> I would appreciate hearing peoples comments on the following >> comparison (archer vs RV10). Don't start laughing yet :) >> I am doing this for budgetary planning purposes against something >> that I am familiar with. >> I would like to know if people think some of these numbers are >> off the mark. >> I know people will scream these planes are not even in the same >> category (mostly in speed, newness, & avionics). Otherwise both >> are 4 seaters, with only slightly different useful loads. >> I know people will say its not the aircraft its the buy/build >> decision, but honestly I would enjoy either process. >> >> The following assumptions are used: >> I am convinced I would LOVE building, not just flying. We do have >> the time/patience to build. >> Financing for loan payments (forced home refi due to balloon >> payment coming due - 6.25% 30 year fixed with cash out to >> purchase 1/2 of aircraft): >> Shared ownership/building with each owner purchasing half >> $4 fuel / gallon >> Insurance for low time IFR pilot (250 total hours, only 30 complex >> in a mooney). >> 200 total hours / year on aircraft (~100 per owner) >> >> RV-10: >> Total Loan Amount $150,000 >> Total loan payment per month: $924 >> Hanger / month: %330 a must to protect all the hard work >> Gallons / hour: 12 >> Cruise Speed: 165 knots >> Useful Load: 1180 >> Seats: 4 >> Insurance / year: $5000??? >> Maintenance / year: 1000 parts, free labor?? >> Fuel Cost / year: 9600 >> Total / year: 30,642 >> Total / month: $2554 >> Total / individual / month: 1277 >> Cost per flight hour: 153 >> Available: 3 years from now (but with fun experience of building) >> Features: NEW everything, owner KNOWs aircraft inside & out >> >> 1976 Used Piper Archer II >> Total Loan Amount 65k >> Total loan payment per month: $400 >> Tiedown / month: 85 (tiedown ok for used plane) >> Gallons / hour: 10 >> Cruise Speed: 120 knots >> Useful Load: 1008 >> Seats: 4 >> Insurance / year: 2500??? >> Maintenance / year: 3000 parts/labor >> Fuel Cost / year: 8000 >> Total / year: 19322 >> Total / month: 1610 >> Total / individual / month: 805 >> Cost per flight hour: 97 >> Available: 2 weeks >> Features: Used, average paint, IFR ready now, dull and boring >> (not much owner maintenance) >> >> Do these look like reasonable numbers? Do the monthly operations >> costs seem right? >> I have attached a spreadsheet so those who want to change my >> numbers may do so. I'd appreciate a copy back of your ideas if >> you think my numbers should be changed. Especially the insurance >> figures. What is everyone else paying for insurance with various >> numbers of piloting hours. Also attached is an updated RV10 >> budget including many of the hidden costs offered up by list >> members (others still yet to be included). >> >> Thanks in advance, >> Jim Clark >> -Trying to figure out how to win the lottery...cowering in >> expectation of responses to my questions... >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Date: Feb 20, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The minimalist panel is not IFR it is VFR as VAN designed with steam gages. Stay away from induction and control surface icing and get the most out of a minimalist budget. Save panel real estate for the point in time you have the amended perspective. You will be quite pleased. The only big change since it was first introduced is the inflation rate applied , by VAN to the kit components and the drying up of used IO-540 cores as VAN had originally budgeted. Randy used a reconditioned prop and there has been little discussion on the value of that route. Know your mission, do not sell yourself short. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 5:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing) Linn, I like the idea on the panel. I'd be interested in hearing more about your panel choices. Tim, sorry for the confusion: no I don't plan to borrow all 150k, but for budgeting I think it is good to plan for the lost earnings that those dollars could be used for if not tied up in an aircraft (or toy). I am interested in cost savings though: Specifically, if an IFR RV-10 is a must (even if using steam gauges), what is the lowest reasonable target figure? I find it very hard to come in at <130. But I have heard several say lower. What am I missing? I have heard the following suggestions which I like very much: Don't paint right away. -Jesse, how does this change if stored outside? Store RV-10 outside (ouch, I don't know if I can live with this). How well will an RV-10 endure VA weather with covers? If I know up front it will be stored outside, any special priming areas I should consider? Save money on engine - don't get new (with conflicting ideas on how much this saves) - various posters Buy steam gauges for first panel (but still IFR), wait to go glass IFR for later if mission/desires dictate. Try to keep panel instruments from first panel revision, useful for 2nd panel down the road. - Linn Go slow build to save...-various John, thanks for your thoughts. I appreciate the comparison with the Archer and like Jesse's idea about fewer wasted pit stops. Bill, thanks for your comparison of the archer. I would be interested if you have any numbers on how much savings can be expected in the maintenance. What would be your yearly numbers for each? What would others consider a minimalist RV-10 IFR panel? Thanks for all your help, Best regards, Jim Clark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Date: Feb 20, 2007
I will reply below. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com www.saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 8:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing) Linn, I like the idea on the panel. I'd be interested in hearing more about your panel choices. Tim, sorry for the confusion: no I don't plan to borrow all 150k, but for budgeting I think it is good to plan for the lost earnings that those dollars could be used for if not tied up in an aircraft (or toy). [Jesse Saint] Very valid point - always good to include opportunity cost. I am interested in cost savings though: Specifically, if an IFR RV-10 is a must (even if using steam gauges), what is the lowest reasonable target figure? I find it very hard to come in at <130. But I have heard several say lower. What am I missing? [Jesse Saint] I would say that, if you are using a new engine and prop, the $150,000 mark is hard to beat by much, but can probably be done if done very carefully. I have heard the following suggestions which I like very much: Don't paint right away. -Jesse, how does this change if stored outside? [Jesse Saint] First of all, let me say that I don't necessarily highly recommend this, but it is a way to cut down on the initial investment if you can't cut it. It would definitely be my recommendation to go ahead and paint before flying, but it can be done without. If you are going to store it outside, then you would at least want to prime all of the fiberglass with UV protection. Either way, I would recommend getting a decent coat of primer on the whole thing before flying, because it is probably easier to get oil and crud off a coat of primer, even by some sanding, than off the metal and out of the pinholes, rivet holes and seams in the skins. Even if you paint on a fairly crude primer (not professionally applied) which can be sanded down/smooth when you get to final painting time, this would help. Again, I would recommend painting ahead of time if you can spring for it. Store RV-10 outside (ouch, I don't know if I can live with this). How well will an RV-10 endure VA weather with covers? If I know up front it will be stored outside, any special priming areas I should consider? Save money on engine - don't get new (with conflicting ideas on how much this saves) - various posters [Jesse Saint] I know a guy who got a used engine for under $20,000 in great condition, and he tore it down and reassembled it with all new gaskets (it had been sitting a while) and should end up with a good powerplant, but those are not easy to find. Buy steam gauges for first panel (but still IFR), wait to go glass IFR for later if mission/desires dictate. Try to keep panel instruments from first panel revision, useful for 2nd panel down the road. - Linn [Jesse Saint] I would start out with an inexpensive EFIS/EMS (Dynon FlightDEK is a great way to get started), as you will get flight instruments and engine monitoring at less than the price of a half-decent set of steam gauges. You can even decide what you may want in a radio stack later and get the wiring harnesses and trays from someone like Stark, and then add the actual instruments when you have the money. Starting out with an SL-40 and a GTX-327 is a cheap way to get COM and XPNDR, and then the SL-40 can be backup when you add something like a 430, 480 or 530, if you are going to be going that route. Notice that a common VFR panel has the SL-40, GTX-327, GMA-340 and a 296 or 396, along with a Dynon or similar EFIS/EMS. This is a great way to get a very functional panel that can be easily added to. Go slow build to save...-various John, thanks for your thoughts. I appreciate the comparison with the Archer and like Jesse's idea about fewer wasted pit stops. Bill, thanks for your comparison of the archer. I would be interested if you have any numbers on how much savings can be expected in the maintenance. What would be your yearly numbers for each? What would others consider a minimalist RV-10 IFR panel? [Jesse Saint] Dynon FlightDEK or combination of EFIS and EMS Garmin GMA-340 Garmin GNS-430 Garmin G?-106A Garmin SL-40 Garmin GTX-327 TruTrak ADI A couple of cheap Backups Actually, with a good TruTrak autopilot (read SORCERER!!!) and a Garmin 396, this is a very functional and practical IFR package on a budget. My dad has almost this exact panel and has flown a lot of quite hard IFR with no problems. He has the Digiflight II, but the Sorcerer takes that much more guess-work out of flying and leaves the pilot more time for general situational awareness and planning ahead. Yes, those fancy EFIS systems are awesome, but if you are on a budget, this is, IMHO, almost a perfect panel. Thanks for all your help, Best regards, Jim Clark ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "James S. Clark IV" <james.s.clark(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Date: Feb 20, 2007
John, I'm not sure I followed everything in your post, or how it was meant to apply to me. Just to clear things up: I am not interested in a minimalist VFR panel. I will build an IFR plane or I will buy an IFR TC aircraft. I am trying to budget these options with some detail. My mission is quite clear to me: End up with a 4 seat IFR platform that I can use for several years (it doesn't have to be the top of the line or my final configuration for the first few years). This platform may have steam gauges (archer or other) or electronic flight instruments or glass flight instruments (RV10). My question was intended to get people's ideas on a reasonable minimal cost IFR panel for the RV10. It seems that roughly no matter how I cut it: Quickbuild + Shipping + New Engine +FWF = 100k. Avionics + Finishing is where I have choices and drastically different costs. For example one possible IFR option: 2 GRT EFIS 1 + EIS 8000B audio panel GNS480 DigiFlight-IIVSGV SL30 NavCom GTX327 ADI, Alt, AS, Compass The above adds roughly 33k. The remainder in the spreadsheet version 3 I have sent out seem to come to 14k more (including some nice hidden costs that Anh sent out) Naturally, I will do everything within my power and budget not to "sell myself short". Best regards, Jim Clark -Still learning the ropes... On Feb 20, 2007, at 9:39 PM, John W. Cox wrote: > > > The minimalist panel is not IFR it is VFR as VAN designed with steam > gages. Stay away from induction and control surface icing and get the > most out of a minimalist budget. Save panel real estate for the > point in > time you have the amended perspective. You will be quite pleased. The > only big change since it was first introduced is the inflation rate > applied , by VAN to the kit components and the drying up of used > IO-540 > cores as VAN had originally budgeted. Randy used a reconditioned prop > and there has been little discussion on the value of that route. > > Know your mission, do not sell yourself short. > > John Cox > #40600 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. > Clark IV > Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 5:53 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing) > > > > Linn, I like the idea on the panel. I'd be interested in hearing more > about your panel choices. > > Tim, sorry for the confusion: no I don't plan to borrow all 150k, but > for budgeting I think it is good to plan for the lost earnings that > those dollars could be used for if not tied up in an aircraft (or > toy). > > I am interested in cost savings though: Specifically, if an IFR RV-10 > is a must (even if using steam gauges), what is the lowest reasonable > target figure? I find it very hard to come in at <130. But I have > heard several say lower. What am I missing? > > I have heard the following suggestions which I like very much: > Don't paint right away. -Jesse, how does this change if stored > outside? > Store RV-10 outside (ouch, I don't know if I can live with this). How > well will an RV-10 endure VA weather with covers? If I know up front > it will be stored outside, any special priming areas I should > consider? > Save money on engine - don't get new (with conflicting ideas on how > much this saves) - various posters > Buy steam gauges for first panel (but still IFR), wait to go glass > IFR for later if mission/desires dictate. Try to keep panel > instruments from first panel revision, useful for 2nd panel down the > road. - Linn > Go slow build to save...-various > > John, thanks for your thoughts. I appreciate the comparison with the > Archer and like Jesse's idea about fewer wasted pit stops. > > Bill, thanks for your comparison of the archer. I would be interested > if you have any numbers on how much savings can be expected in the > maintenance. What would be your yearly numbers for each? > > What would others consider a minimalist RV-10 IFR panel? > > Thanks for all your help, > Best regards, > Jim Clark > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: PILOTDDS(at)aol.com
Date: Feb 20, 2007
Subject: re: infant ear protectors
When i was at oshkosh another 10 pilot & his wife discussed using dog hearing protectors to protect their infant's ears. Does anyone have a pirep on this technique or any other suggestions to protect a four month old child's ears. The 10 is a family plane, right? 728DD 113 hours and loving it! ************************************** Check out free AOL at of free high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and much more. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2007
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: re: infant ear protectors
We had both kids flying by 5 weeks. The early months were done by using the kid carrier. The part that normally gets the sun shield canopy was covered by a big slab of eggcrate style foam covered in large bath towels. That deadened the sound drastically in the car carrier. When the kids came out to feed, we put a blanket over them. They slept a lot. As they got older, we used a very lightweight pair of hearing protectors designed for construction or shooting. They folded up really small, and thus fit their head too. When they didn't want to wear those, we made them wear "macs ear plugs" that you can get from walmart. After they learned kids music, they liked using ANR headsets to listen to kids songs. We had kids sized headsets initially. Now, I find that the Bose headsets fit young kids great, and are more comfortable for them...but by the time they hit 4 or 5 years they should be ready for nice headsets and plenty of DVD's and music. Traveling with kids is great. Do bring pairs of those foam earplugs that you use in loud commercial situations. I found them very helpful during potty training and diaper changes.... used in the nose. ;) Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying PILOTDDS(at)aol.com wrote: > When i was at oshkosh another 10 pilot & his wife discussed using dog > hearing protectors to protect their infant's ears. Does anyone have a > pirep on this technique or any other suggestions to protect a four month > old child's ears. > The 10 is a family plane, right? 728DD 113 hours and loving it! > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Rob Wright" <armywrights(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Engine Mount Hole Alignment to Firewall
Date: Feb 20, 2007
I have "encouraged" my engine mount into position while installing bolts. I wonder what real problems there could be in that little bit of static tension, as long as it's not using a winch to stretch the thing. I'm thinking that it may reduce the amount of settling that many experience. Rob #392 Cleaning up emails from a week of vacation - need a blackberry! _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Niko Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 10:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Engine Mount Hole Alignment to Firewall I tried to drill the engine mount holes in the firewall this weekend. After drilling the left upper hole first (pilots side) I noticed that the firewall pilot hole on the upper right side is about 3/16 inch off (outboard.) The lower holes are not too bad. I sent an email to Vans asking if I should simply stretch the engine mount frame into place since it appears I can pull it into place with just my hands (no clamps ). Here is the response. "Since the engine mount weldment moves somewhat when it it removed from the jig, we don't expect all the holes to line up. If after drilling the upper left hole, some of the other holes seem to be fairly close, drill them first. Drill the upper right hole last. Don't force the mount into position." I am including this since when I did a search on the archives I found references to forcing the mount into position. Following the recommended procedure it would be interesting if one has to replace an engine mount frame. I hope they all move the same amount after removal from the jig. Niko 40188 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Date: Feb 20, 2007
Jim You are adding unnecessary expenses by wanting more than a good IFR platform.. Price out Dual grand rapids efis, SL30, 300 xl the Gtx 327, drop down in quality to Maybe a 1000II audio, and a lesser auto pilot and you will save a lot of money, and you will have a certified IFR aircraft, that is better than what's in every DC-8 or 707 in the world. 2 cents worth Bob K Panel and fiberglass and wires and oxygen system and a few rivets now and then just to keep in practice. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 7:13 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing) John, I'm not sure I followed everything in your post, or how it was meant to apply to me. Just to clear things up: I am not interested in a minimalist VFR panel. I will build an IFR plane or I will buy an IFR TC aircraft. I am trying to budget these options with some detail. My mission is quite clear to me: End up with a 4 seat IFR platform that I can use for several years (it doesn't have to be the top of the line or my final configuration for the first few years). This platform may have steam gauges (archer or other) or electronic flight instruments or glass flight instruments (RV10). My question was intended to get people's ideas on a reasonable minimal cost IFR panel for the RV10. It seems that roughly no matter how I cut it: Quickbuild + Shipping + New Engine +FWF = 100k. Avionics + Finishing is where I have choices and drastically different costs. For example one possible IFR option: 2 GRT EFIS 1 + EIS 8000B audio panel GNS480 DigiFlight-IIVSGV SL30 NavCom GTX327 ADI, Alt, AS, Compass The above adds roughly 33k. The remainder in the spreadsheet version 3 I have sent out seem to come to 14k more (including some nice hidden costs that Anh sent out) Naturally, I will do everything within my power and budget not to "sell myself short". Best regards, Jim Clark -Still learning the ropes... On Feb 20, 2007, at 9:39 PM, John W. Cox wrote: The minimalist panel is not IFR it is VFR as VAN designed with steam gages. Stay away from induction and control surface icing and get the most out of a minimalist budget. Save panel real estate for the point in time you have the amended perspective. You will be quite pleased. The only big change since it was first introduced is the inflation rate applied , by VAN to the kit components and the drying up of used IO-540 cores as VAN had originally budgeted. Randy used a reconditioned prop and there has been little discussion on the value of that route. Know your mission, do not sell yourself short. John Cox #40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of James S. Clark IV Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 5:53 PM Subject: RV10-List: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing) Linn, I like the idea on the panel. I'd be interested in hearing more about your panel choices. Tim, sorry for the confusion: no I don't plan to borrow all 150k, but for budgeting I think it is good to plan for the lost earnings that those dollars could be used for if not tied up in an aircraft (or toy). I am interested in cost savings though: Specifically, if an IFR RV-10 is a must (even if using steam gauges), what is the lowest reasonable target figure? I find it very hard to come in at <130. But I have heard several say lower. What am I missing? I have heard the following suggestions which I like very much: Don't paint right away. -Jesse, how does this change if stored outside? Store RV-10 outside (ouch, I don't know if I can live with this). How well will an RV-10 endure VA weather with covers? If I know up front it will be stored outside, any special priming areas I should consider? Save money on engine - don't get new (with conflicting ideas on how much this saves) - various posters Buy steam gauges for first panel (but still IFR), wait to go glass IFR for later if mission/desires dictate. Try to keep panel instruments from first panel revision, useful for 2nd panel down the road. - Linn Go slow build to save...-various John, thanks for your thoughts. I appreciate the comparison with the Archer and like Jesse's idea about fewer wasted pit stops. Bill, thanks for your comparison of the archer. I would be interested if you have any numbers on how much savings can be expected in the maintenance. What would be your yearly numbers for each? What would others consider a minimalist RV-10 IFR panel? Thanks for all your help, Best regards, Jim Clark - The RV10-List Email Forum - ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2007
Subject: Re: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Jim, Try to find someone already flying that did what you are trying to do. They are out there. Also, one has to be willing to buy other brands INS TEAD of GARMIN/KING if you wanna truly cuts costs. For example, A nice Garmin 496 is roughly $3500? There are other GPS units that will fit your bill for $1000. SAVINGS = $2500 Also, a Garmin SL30 is $3250 ? A new Icom 200 and a yellow tagged Nav radio can be had for $2250. SA VINGS = $1000. I would love the greatest and latest from Garmin too, but I choose not to pay their PREMIUM price versus other Avionics that do what I need. I flew a Cherokee 140 all day yesterday..............th e newest thing in the IFR panel was a pair of KING 155's. The owner was a happy pilot,,,,,,,,buy to meet your needs and your budget............ NOT to impress your friends and fellow pilots! Dean 40449 ________________________________________________________________________ FREE Reminder Service - NEW from AmericanGreetings.com Click HERE and never forget a Birthday or Anniversary again! http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.americangreetings.c om/products/online_calendar.pd?c=uol5752

Jim,

Try to find someone already flying that did what you are trying to do .  They are out there.  Also, one has to be willing to buy oth er brands INSTEAD of GARMIN/KING if you wanna truly cuts costs.  Fo r example,  A nice Garmin 496 is roughly $3500?   There a re other GPS units that will fit your bill for $1000.  SAVINGS = $2500     Also, a Garmin SL30 is $3250?  A new Icom 200 and a yellow tagged Nav radio can be had for $2250. SAVINGS = $1000.  I would love the greatest and latest from Garmin too, but I choose not to pay their PREMIUM price  versus other Avionics that do what I need.  I flew a Cherokee 140 all day yesterday.......... ....the newest thing in the IFR panel was a pair of KING 155's.  Th e owner was a happy pilot,,,,,,,,buy to meet your needs and your budget. ........... NOT to impress your friends and fellow pilots!

 

Dean 40449



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Date: Feb 21, 2007
From: Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net>
Subject: Re: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
Hello Dean and Jim I only partly agree on that, I did go the cheap route with a KX-125 and a KN75 first, then had to add a KI-106 for glideslope. Then the KX failed shortly after 2 years, they did charge me $1200.- to fix it. The whole setup was much more expensive then if I had gone with am SL-30 straight ahead (you find them used to (but seldom)). The SL-30 has many nice features like 2nd com listen mode, cross reference tracking of 2nd NAV and you can have the display of the glideslop on any Dynon EFIS. I swapped meanwhile the King stuff with an SL-30 and I did not regret, except that I would have saved a lot of money going that route from the start. br Werner ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote: > > Jim, > > Try to find someone already flying that did what you are trying to > do. They are out there. Also, one has to be willing to buy other > brands INSTEAD of GARMIN/KING if you wanna truly cuts costs. For > example, A nice Garmin 496 is roughly $3500? There are other GPS > units that will fit your bill for $1000. SAVINGS = $2500 Also, a > Garmin SL30 is $3250? A new Icom 200 and a yellow tagged Nav radio > can be had for $2250. SAVINGS = $1000. I would love the greatest and > latest from Garmin too, but I choose not to pay their PREMIUM price > versus other Avionics that do what I need. I flew a Cherokee 140 all > day yesterday..............the newest thing in the IFR panel was a > pair of KING 155's. The owner was a happy pilot,,,,,,,,buy to meet > your needs and your budget............ NOT to impress your friends and > fellow pilots! > > > > Dean 40449 > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > *FREE* Reminder Service - *NEW* from AmericanGreetings.com > Click *HERE* and never forget a Birthday or Anniversary again! > <http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=197335&u=http://www.americangreetings.com/products/online_calendar.pd?c=uol5752> > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: IFR RV-10 Budgeting (ongoing)
One does have to be judicious in your choices. The King 145 and 125 were their low end products, which can be observed by their weak power output and lack of features. A used KX155 or one of the finest radios spurned by the market is the Narco MK12D+. Equivalent to a King 165 at thousands less. The SL30 is a fine unit, because Garmin didn't design it. If you can only afford one radio, it would be my choice for a new radio. If you want separate units, the Narco and an Icom will save you money over most other combinations.


February 11, 2007 - February 21, 2007

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cb