RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cj
May 31, 2007 - June 16, 2007
There's a range of sizes indicated for the bushing as well as the
tube the bushing fits in to. If you take the bushing and tube down
to the smaller of the size range, you should get adequate thread
showing on the bolt with the washers called out in the plans.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Botttom Skins on wings!
On May 30, 2007, at 7:24 PM, dmaib(at)mac.com wrote:
>
> Installed the aileron bellcrank on the left wing tonight per step 2
> on page 23-4. I did not have any threads showing on the bolt after
> torquing the nut. I removed the nut and changed the washer to a
> thin washer. I now have 2 threads (just barely!) Anybody else
> experience this?
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=115692#115692
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | RV-10 Glide Ratio |
Has anyone done some extensive glide ratio testing in their RV-10?
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Bellcrank |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
My bushings are at the maximum, so I think the advice to take them down to the
minimum is a good way to insure that I have adequate bolt length.
Thanks guys!
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=115799#115799
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LessDragProd(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FS: MT Prop Gov |
Hi All,
Just as a point of reference, Juergen Zahner is the MT governor guru in the
USA. And what he has said is correct for the operation of the P-8xx series
of MT governors.
Just as a point of clarification: installing the correct governor on the
appropriate Lycoming engine means that the governor has been preset at the
factory for that engine.
Installing the MT governor for a narrow deck Lyc. 540 engine on the wide
deck Lycoming 540 engine means that you will have to adjust the governor setting
to get the correct maximum RPM.
With a brand new engine on a brand new aircraft being prepared for its first
flight: This seemed like the wrong time to be fussing with an otherwise
unnecessary governor adjustment.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 05/30/2007 1:09:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
neilcolliver(at)maxnet.co.nz writes:
MT governors.
all P-860-( ) governors are basically the same. The - ( ) number only refers
to the control arm position and the max. rpm of the governor. To change the
control arm, loosen the 6 screws, turn the entire center portion to the
desired position, tighten the 6 screws and safety.
To change max rpm the set screw on the high rpm stop is turned
counterclockwise (out) to increase rpm and clockwise (in) to decrease rpm.
If there is not enough adjustment possible ( 1 turn = 25 rpm) the control
arm must be reset on the spline one notch at the time.
All this can be done on the plane.
Best Regards,
Juergen Zahner
mt-propeller USA, Inc.
ph: 386-736-7762
fax:386-736-7696
Juergen.Zahner@mt-propellerusa.com
www.mt-propellerusa.com
On 26 May 2007, at 16:18, LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
Just for the sake of clarification, the Lyc. IO-540-C4B5 engine has two
different governor gear ratios.
The NARROW deck has a 0.895:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor
P-860-3 or P-420-17.
The WIDE deck has a 0.947:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor P-860-5
or P-420-5.
The cylinders on the NARROW deck engine are mounted with round nuts
having an internal Allen wrench drive.
The cylinders on the WIDE deck engine are mounted with standard hex
nuts.
I have not seen the WIDE deck MT governors being offered for sale by
Van's Aircraft. I have only seen them offer the MT governors designed
for the NARROW deck Lyc. 540 engine.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 05/25/2007 9:26:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wcurtis(at)nerv10.com writes:
>
> Some folks are opting for the PCU5000/X (http://pcu5000.com). It
> supposedly governs better than the MT provided in the FF kit. Someone
> on Vansairforce is doing a group buy of the PCU5000. Since the
> PCU5000X ($1350) is more expensive than the MT ($Van's $1100), this
> may be another case of a solution looking for a problem. Has anyone
> flying had issues with the MT P-860-3?
>
> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?
> t=17279&page=1&pp=10&highlight=pcu
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FS: MT Prop Gov |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
> With a brand new engine on a brand new aircraft being prepared for its first
> flight: This seemed like the wrong time to be fussing with an otherwise
> unnecessary governor adjustment.
Agreed!
Thanks Rhonda, Jim and Juergen!
Has anyone that has done this (adjust the P-860-3 governor in Van's Firewall Forward
kit for use with the WIDE deck engine) have any settings such as how many
turns on the set screw is required for the 2700 RPM?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just as a point of reference, Juergen Zahner is the MT governor guru in the
> USA. And what he has said is correct for the operation of the P-8xx series
> of MT governors.
>
> Just as a point of clarification: installing the correct governor on the
> appropriate Lycoming engine means that the governor has been preset at the
> factory for that engine.
> Installing the MT governor for a narrow deck Lyc. 540 engine on the wide
> deck Lycoming 540 engine means that you will have to adjust the governor setting
> to get the correct maximum RPM.
>
> With a brand new engine on a brand new aircraft being prepared for its first
> flight: This seemed like the wrong time to be fussing with an otherwise
> unnecessary governor adjustment.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 05/30/2007 1:09:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> neilcolliver(at)maxnet.co.nz writes:
>
> MT governors.
>
> all P-860-( ) governors are basically the same. The - ( ) number only refers
> to the control arm position and the max. rpm of the governor. To change the
> control arm, loosen the 6 screws, turn the entire center portion to the
> desired position, tighten the 6 screws and safety.
>
> To change max rpm the set screw on the high rpm stop is turned
> counterclockwise (out) to increase rpm and clockwise (in) to decrease rpm.
> If there is not enough adjustment possible ( 1 turn = 25 rpm) the control
> arm must be reset on the spline one notch at the time.
>
> All this can be done on the plane.
>
> Best Regards,
> Juergen Zahner
> mt-propeller USA, Inc.
> ph: 386-736-7762
> fax:386-736-7696
> Juergen.Zahner@mt-propellerusa.com
> www.mt-propellerusa.com
>
> On 26 May 2007, at 16:18, LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Just for the sake of clarification, the Lyc. IO-540-C4B5 engine has two
> different governor gear ratios.
>
> The NARROW deck has a 0.895:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor
> P-860-3 or P-420-17.
>
> The WIDE deck has a 0.947:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor P-860-5
> or P-420-5.
>
> The cylinders on the NARROW deck engine are mounted with round nuts
> having an internal Allen wrench drive.
> The cylinders on the WIDE deck engine are mounted with standard hex
> nuts.
>
> I have not seen the WIDE deck MT governors being offered for sale by
> Van's Aircraft. I have only seen them offer the MT governors designed
> for the NARROW deck Lyc. 540 engine.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 05/25/2007 9:26:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> wcurtis(at)nerv10.com writes:
> >
> > Some folks are opting for the PCU5000/X (http://pcu5000.com). It
> > supposedly governs better than the MT provided in the FF kit. Someone
> > on Vansairforce is doing a group buy of the PCU5000. Since the
> > PCU5000X ($1350) is more expensive than the MT ($Van's $1100), this
> > may be another case of a solution looking for a problem. Has anyone
> > flying had issues with the MT P-860-3?
> >
> > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?
> > t=17279&page=1&pp=10&highlight=pcu
> >
> > William
> > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
I have been cautiously watching this thread to see how things developed.
Definitely would like to see info from the guys flying to see what
changes were required. My first thought was to change it out - but
having it already on, baffles fit, and sealed around, makes it a less
than desirable situation to pull off.
Thanks in advance for any info
Byron
N253RV assigned - still finishing....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FS: MT Prop Gov
> With a brand new engine on a brand new aircraft being prepared for its
first
> flight: This seemed like the wrong time to be fussing with an
otherwise
> unnecessary governor adjustment.
Agreed!
Thanks Rhonda, Jim and Juergen!
Has anyone that has done this (adjust the P-860-3 governor in Van's
Firewall Forward kit for use with the WIDE deck engine) have any
settings such as how many turns on the set screw is required for the
2700 RPM?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just as a point of reference, Juergen Zahner is the MT governor guru
in the
> USA. And what he has said is correct for the operation of the P-8xx
series
> of MT governors.
>
> Just as a point of clarification: installing the correct governor on
the
> appropriate Lycoming engine means that the governor has been preset at
the
> factory for that engine.
> Installing the MT governor for a narrow deck Lyc. 540 engine on the
wide
> deck Lycoming 540 engine means that you will have to adjust the
governor setting
> to get the correct maximum RPM.
>
> With a brand new engine on a brand new aircraft being prepared for its
first
> flight: This seemed like the wrong time to be fussing with an
otherwise
> unnecessary governor adjustment.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 05/30/2007 1:09:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> neilcolliver(at)maxnet.co.nz writes:
>
> MT governors.
>
> all P-860-( ) governors are basically the same. The - ( ) number only
refers
> to the control arm position and the max. rpm of the governor. To
change the
> control arm, loosen the 6 screws, turn the entire center portion to
the
> desired position, tighten the 6 screws and safety.
>
> To change max rpm the set screw on the high rpm stop is turned
> counterclockwise (out) to increase rpm and clockwise (in) to decrease
rpm.
> If there is not enough adjustment possible ( 1 turn = 25 rpm) the
control
> arm must be reset on the spline one notch at the time.
>
> All this can be done on the plane.
>
> Best Regards,
> Juergen Zahner
> mt-propeller USA, Inc.
> ph: 386-736-7762
> fax:386-736-7696
> Juergen.Zahner@mt-propellerusa.com
> www.mt-propellerusa.com
>
> On 26 May 2007, at 16:18, LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Just for the sake of clarification, the Lyc. IO-540-C4B5 engine has
two
> different governor gear ratios.
>
> The NARROW deck has a 0.895:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor
> P-860-3 or P-420-17.
>
> The WIDE deck has a 0.947:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor
P-860-5
> or P-420-5.
>
> The cylinders on the NARROW deck engine are mounted with round nuts
> having an internal Allen wrench drive.
> The cylinders on the WIDE deck engine are mounted with standard hex
> nuts.
>
> I have not seen the WIDE deck MT governors being offered for sale by
> Van's Aircraft. I have only seen them offer the MT governors
designed
> for the NARROW deck Lyc. 540 engine.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 05/25/2007 9:26:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> wcurtis(at)nerv10.com writes:
> >
> > Some folks are opting for the PCU5000/X (http://pcu5000.com). It
> > supposedly governs better than the MT provided in the FF kit.
Someone
> > on Vansairforce is doing a group buy of the PCU5000. Since the
> > PCU5000X ($1350) is more expensive than the MT ($Van's $1100), this
> > may be another case of a solution looking for a problem. Has
anyone
> > flying had issues with the MT P-860-3?
> >
> > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?
> > t=17279&page=1&pp=10&highlight=pcu
> >
> > William
> > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Byron Gillespie" <bgill1(at)charter.net> |
I have been cautiously watching this thread to see how things developed.
Definitely would like to see info from the guys flying to see what
changes were required. My first thought was to change it out - but
having it already on, baffles fit, and sealed around, makes it a less
than desirable situation to pull off.
Thanks in advance for any info
Byron
N253RV assigned - still finishing....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FS: MT Prop Gov
> With a brand new engine on a brand new aircraft being prepared for its
first
> flight: This seemed like the wrong time to be fussing with an
otherwise
> unnecessary governor adjustment.
Agreed!
Thanks Rhonda, Jim and Juergen!
Has anyone that has done this (adjust the P-860-3 governor in Van's
Firewall Forward kit for use with the WIDE deck engine) have any
settings such as how many turns on the set screw is required for the
2700 RPM?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just as a point of reference, Juergen Zahner is the MT governor guru
in the
> USA. And what he has said is correct for the operation of the P-8xx
series
> of MT governors.
>
> Just as a point of clarification: installing the correct governor on
the
> appropriate Lycoming engine means that the governor has been preset at
the
> factory for that engine.
> Installing the MT governor for a narrow deck Lyc. 540 engine on the
wide
> deck Lycoming 540 engine means that you will have to adjust the
governor setting
> to get the correct maximum RPM.
>
> With a brand new engine on a brand new aircraft being prepared for its
first
> flight: This seemed like the wrong time to be fussing with an
otherwise
> unnecessary governor adjustment.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 05/30/2007 1:09:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> neilcolliver(at)maxnet.co.nz writes:
>
> MT governors.
>
> all P-860-( ) governors are basically the same. The - ( ) number only
refers
> to the control arm position and the max. rpm of the governor. To
change the
> control arm, loosen the 6 screws, turn the entire center portion to
the
> desired position, tighten the 6 screws and safety.
>
> To change max rpm the set screw on the high rpm stop is turned
> counterclockwise (out) to increase rpm and clockwise (in) to decrease
rpm.
> If there is not enough adjustment possible ( 1 turn = 25 rpm) the
control
> arm must be reset on the spline one notch at the time.
>
> All this can be done on the plane.
>
> Best Regards,
> Juergen Zahner
> mt-propeller USA, Inc.
> ph: 386-736-7762
> fax:386-736-7696
> Juergen.Zahner@mt-propellerusa.com
> www.mt-propellerusa.com
>
> On 26 May 2007, at 16:18, LessDragProd(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Just for the sake of clarification, the Lyc. IO-540-C4B5 engine has
two
> different governor gear ratios.
>
> The NARROW deck has a 0.895:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor
> P-860-3 or P-420-17.
>
> The WIDE deck has a 0.947:1 gear ratio and uses the MT governor
P-860-5
> or P-420-5.
>
> The cylinders on the NARROW deck engine are mounted with round nuts
> having an internal Allen wrench drive.
> The cylinders on the WIDE deck engine are mounted with standard hex
> nuts.
>
> I have not seen the WIDE deck MT governors being offered for sale by
> Van's Aircraft. I have only seen them offer the MT governors
designed
> for the NARROW deck Lyc. 540 engine.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 05/25/2007 9:26:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> wcurtis(at)nerv10.com writes:
> >
> > Some folks are opting for the PCU5000/X (http://pcu5000.com). It
> > supposedly governs better than the MT provided in the FF kit.
Someone
> > on Vansairforce is doing a group buy of the PCU5000. Since the
> > PCU5000X ($1350) is more expensive than the MT ($Van's $1100), this
> > may be another case of a solution looking for a problem. Has
anyone
> > flying had issues with the MT P-860-3?
> >
> > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?
> > t=17279&page=1&pp=10&highlight=pcu
> >
> > William
> > http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce |
In case any of you were considering ordering PTI aircraft finishing items from
Aircraft Spruce, you might want to reconsider based on the calamity of errors
I have experienced attempting to do this. PTI looks like they have the right
stuff -- acid wash primer, epoxy primer, topcoat polyurethanes specifically designed
for aircraft. Prices aren't too bad either -- a full set of the above
for an RV-10 in base white plus two trim colors is about $1800 total in materials.
HOWEVER, Aircraft Spruce makes all of these things backorders since they have to
be shipped from the factory (which takes up to 6 weeks between order and even
partial receipt), AND A/S has twice deleted key items from my order (such as,
uh, the catalyst for the polyurethane, and one of the two other-than-white colors)
and not told me. Instead they send a revised invoice that just shows the
items that are on backorder -- you have to look line by line compared to the
original order to see that specific items are not on backorder but in fact have
been silently and completely dropped from the original order. (Not once,
but twice, and when I called them the lady said 'those items are no longer available'
but how can you sell polyurethane paint if the catalyst for it is 'no
longer available'??? And why does the website confirm the order as being available
at all?)
So after waiting a month I have a batch of paint supplies partially delivered that
are not complete and cannot be used to paint an airplane due to absence of
key components, for which I am going to get an RMA and take a 15% return stocking
charge on a special order that they could not deliver.
Having placed, oh perhaps 300 orders with A/S over the past six years of building
two RV's, this is the absolute worst customer non-service gambit I have ever
seen them pull.
So if you actually plan to paint your plane, you'd be a lot better off with a local
supplier of automotive finishes as a source than playing the we-can't-deliver-what-we-advertise
game with Backorder Spruce.
Lemme see, where is that PPG distributor in the neighborhood...
-Dan Masys
#40448 N104LD almost ready to fly if only it could get painted...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce |
If you have not done so I would call and request to talk to the big man, Jim
Irwin or email him direct, he has come on the matronics forums in the past,
and on the -10 forum when were hoping to get bulk alodine from Spruce a few
years back.
I think he would set things straight. He's usually there at the Oshkosh
booth giving out catalogs.
-Chris Lucas
#40072 cabin top...got PTI primer no problem, disappointed to hear this
story
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Masys" <dmasys(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 8:31 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce
>
> In case any of you were considering ordering PTI aircraft finishing items
> from Aircraft Spruce, you might want to reconsider based on the calamity
> of errors I have experienced attempting to do this. PTI looks like they
> have the right stuff -- acid wash primer, epoxy primer, topcoat
> polyurethanes specifically designed for aircraft. Prices aren't too bad
> either -- a full set of the above for an RV-10 in base white plus two trim
> colors is about $1800 total in materials.
>
> HOWEVER, Aircraft Spruce makes all of these things backorders since they
> have to be shipped from the factory (which takes up to 6 weeks between
> order and even partial receipt), AND A/S has twice deleted key items from
> my order (such as, uh, the catalyst for the polyurethane, and one of the
> two other-than-white colors) and not told me. Instead they send a revised
> invoice that just shows the items that are on backorder -- you have to
> look line by line compared to the original order to see that specific
> items are not on backorder but in fact have been silently and completely
> dropped from the original order. (Not once, but twice, and when I called
> them the lady said 'those items are no longer available' but how can you
> sell polyurethane paint if the catalyst for it is 'no longer available'???
> And why does the website confirm the order as being available at all?)
>
> So after waiting a month I have a batch of paint supplies partially
> delivered that are not complete and cannot be used to paint an airplane
> due to absence of key components, for which I am going to get an RMA and
> take a 15% return stocking charge on a special order that they could not
> deliver.
>
> Having placed, oh perhaps 300 orders with A/S over the past six years of
> building two RV's, this is the absolute worst customer non-service gambit
> I have ever seen them pull.
>
> So if you actually plan to paint your plane, you'd be a lot better off
> with a local supplier of automotive finishes as a source than playing the
> we-can't-deliver-what-we-advertise game with Backorder Spruce.
>
> Lemme see, where is that PPG distributor in the neighborhood...
>
> -Dan Masys
> #40448 N104LD almost ready to fly if only it could get painted...
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I have found A/S to be very accomodating in the past. I had a problem with some
sparkplugs that I got last year and they really went out of their way for me.
I do not think that you will need to take the 15% restock if they do not make
good. I would speak to the boss or a supervisor before you bag on them. Finally
there is always the credit card company if any vendor plays hardball with you.
Beware if you do that there are very specific laws and rules that you must
follow including written notice within 90 or 120 days.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=115889#115889
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Closing up the baggage and rear seat area - add to gotcha li |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Note before you close up the baggage area be sure to run that #2 wire and any other
wires/conduit that you will be needing - as well as the pitot- static system
lines. I went ahead and bought the Vans wire kit. It is $600+ - ouch. It
is designed for basic VFR wiring, but I am quite impressed with the kit. It has
cushion clamps brackets and a lot of goodies that obviously enhance safety of
the wiring and save a lot of time on the construction. For a idiot like me the
kit is a god send. After working with the kit for two days I am impressed.
Vans is a bit deficient in marketing the product. It came in a 18# box complete
with the breaker/switches and wires and a ton of misc parts that you will obviously
need. Apparently Tim Olsen has the OP-37 wiring harness plans on his web
site. I also bought the F-10112-L strobe bracket which for $15 is a premier
value. The install is snap and the Whelen unit just screws in with 4 screws -
slick as snot...... vans told me not to get the actual Whelen strobes till I
am closer to flying as the purchase starts the tolling of the one year warranty.
I was also distressed at the lack of inspection ports in the lower baggage floorboards
area. I angled two VA195 wing inspection plates in where the boarding
step bolts are. This saves my ankles during the construction phase and gives me
inspection ports after I am flying. I am used to the Cessnas where there are
inspection plates everywhere.
I am a Q/B builder. Just passed 500 hrs today on the clock. Probably 700 if you
count the research time on the web. I could probably build two of these planes
in 125% of the time that it takes to build one with all the time that I spend
on the web and double checking the plans. Anyway godspeed to all you crazzy
builders out there. This web site is awesome.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=115890#115890
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
Many thanks to Rich, owner of "Aircraft Extras"
http://www.aircraftextras.com/ for his assistance in helping me install
the FPS system in my RV10. This is a great Flap Positioning System for
the complicated flap settings used on the 10. No limit switches to set
or wear out, program once and it's done.
Sam Marlow
Wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Vans mount bracket and ME406 ELT? |
I have a single Vans ELT/Strobe mount and it fits perfectly with the Wheelen
strobe power supply (nice!). Does anyone know what needs to be done to the Vans
mount to hold the Artex ME406 ELT? It's not obvious (at least to me) looking at
photos of the ME406 mounting tray how one would securely mount the tray to the
Vans bracket.
Thanks in advance for replies!
Jay
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims
Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vans mount bracket and ME406 ELT? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Jay,
The ME406 tray has multiple sets of holes is designed to be able to
mount in the same place as either an Ameriking or ACK ELT (to make
retrofit easier). I made a mount that fit an ACK E-01 and the ME406
lines up exactly with those holes. I can get you details when I get
home if you need them.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay
Brinkmeyer
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 12:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Vans mount bracket and ME406 ELT?
I have a single Vans ELT/Strobe mount and it fits perfectly with the
Wheelen
strobe power supply (nice!). Does anyone know what needs to be done to
the Vans
mount to hold the Artex ME406 ELT? It's not obvious (at least to me)
looking at
photos of the ME406 mounting tray how one would securely mount the tray
to the
Vans bracket.
Thanks in advance for replies!
Jay
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
http://sims.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Panel layout and design |
Tim Olson, an awsome page and a huge benefit for a lot of us. Thank-you
for your time and effort and willingness to share such insight.
John 40315
For a good read......
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/panel/Design_Layout.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Panel layout and design |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I wholeheartedly agree. If builders would define their mission, outline
the objectives and apply Tim's process, there would be a lot of valuable
panels out there which inflate the resale value of the whole fleet. The
alternative is to do it with a maverick style and have a panel few
purchasers would ever want bringing down the comparable sales and
affecting the pool of RV-10s for future resale. Worse yet is a panel
that is not intuitive to operate in anything other than VFR day with
unlimited visibility.
Thanks Tim again.
John 40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 2:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Panel layout and design
Tim Olson, an awsome page and a huge benefit for a lot of us. Thank-you
for your time and effort and willingness to share such insight.
John 40315
For a good read......
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/panel/Design_Layout.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vans mount bracket and ME406 ELT? |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I mounted my ELT under the fiberglass fairing in the tail. Fits nice back there.
One of my buddies suggested that I bend the antenna under the fiberglass fairing
also........
As he suggested, putting the antenna vertical my not be all that meaningful as
he said, " who knows what position the plane will be in after a crash." Inside
the fiberglass cone it is probably better protected in a crash.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116002#116002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Friday night, a new issue of Kitplanes in the mail with a P-51 mustang
kit on the cover, then low and behold none other than our own Tim
Olson's N104CD (on page 43) as the feature picture leading into Part 4 -
All About Avionics. (no photo credit of course). Then page 58 on
Completions and he has the good foresight to credit Andrea with her
assistance and attitude. Now that's Flying and Living the Dream. A
fitting close on great decision-making when it comes to functional panel
design and high resale value.
Thanks goes to Stein as well as the definitive source and author.
John Cox
#600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
For those of you not reading Kitplanes. Harbor Freight is having a
three day "sidewalk sale". Check out Item #91201 for making holes for
conduit and other such activities. Was $21.99 now $15.99. An
alternative to Costco Unibits.
ITEM 91201
MANUAL KNOCKOUT PUNCH KIT
Forged, machined and heat treated high carbon steel construction.
Includes: 1/2'', 3/4'', 1'' and 1-1/4'' dies; 7/8'', 1-3/32'',
1-11/32'', and 1-11/16'' hole punches, driving screws and blow mold
carrying case.
Capacity: up to 10 gauge mild steel, aluminum, fiberglass and plastic;
Weight: 2.65 lbs.
ITEM 91201
<http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/wishlist/addItem.do?sku=91201&retu
r
nurl=/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=91201>
<http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/91000-91999/91201.pdf>
John Cox
#600
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Patrick Thyssen <jump2(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vans mount bracket and ME406 ELT? |
Yea but your tail will block out some of the signals and why not turn it on before
you crash if you have time? Call your Elt maker and see What they have to
say.
Look at The AC43 and see what it says about mounting Elt antennas. It's only
your life and the people you carry.
Pat
AirMike wrote:
I mounted my ELT under the fiberglass fairing in the tail. Fits nice back there.
One of my buddies suggested that I bend the antenna under the fiberglass fairing
also........
As he suggested, putting the antenna vertical my not be all that meaningful as
he said, " who knows what position the plane will be in after a crash." Inside
the fiberglass cone it is probably better protected in a crash.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116002#116002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
They also have three other outstanding deals - today only. Sunday
A spray gun with a small (6 oz) resevoir that is perfect for small parts that is
only $7.99
set of mini files that is only $1.99.
I also love their mini SS ruler (6") that has a neat conversion chart on the back
at only $.79
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116124#116124
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wingtip suggestions |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I am finishing up the wings so I can start to inventory the fuse kit and am having
issues with the wingtips. The left wingtip is about 1/2 inch short but it
is straight so I can just lay-up and sand down successive layers of glass. The
right wingtip however is both 1/4 inch short and the trailing edge is about 3/8
inch below the rigged aileron and flap trailing edges. Hopefully I was successful
at attaching the pictures below. Has anyone had this same issue and came
up with a good way to fix it or any suggestions? Otherwise I will probably cut
off the end aft of the tip rib and layup a new trailing edge. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
40518 finishing wingtips and waiting to inventory fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116129#116129
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_outboard_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_inboard_977.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip suggestions |
Eric,
It's difficult to see from the pics attached, and pictures can sometimes
be deceptive. In the picture that looks outboard it appears that the
aileron may have a twist in it and that might account for some of the
misalignment. ? :-\
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip suggestions |
That was my first thought as well. is the aileron twisted or the wing tip?
jae
40533
www.jline.com/rv10
Deems Davis wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
> It's difficult to see from the pics attached, and pictures can
> sometimes be deceptive. In the picture that looks outboard it appears
> that the aileron may have a twist in it and that might account for
> some of the misalignment. ? :-\
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
> http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Lammers <davelammers(at)mchsi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: wingtip suggestions |
Eric,
The following applies to your right (don't know about your left).
I just went through this last week.
Your holes are probably off just a tiny bit (mine were). My guess is
about a half the diameter of the hole. It doesn't take much.
Here is what I did.
Epoxy the holes closed. Sounds like a lot of work but takes about 10
minutes. (one day to harden)
Temporarily install the tip rib (with tape or something). This really
helps!
Now reinstall but this time be much more careful about alignment as you
cleco and drill. I used strap clamps.
It will work out for you just fine. No easy fix.
Good luck.
Dave Lammers
Eric_Kallio wrote:
>
>I am finishing up the wings so I can start to inventory the fuse kit and am having
issues with the wingtips. The left wingtip is about 1/2 inch short but it
is straight so I can just lay-up and sand down successive layers of glass. The
right wingtip however is both 1/4 inch short and the trailing edge is about
3/8 inch below the rigged aileron and flap trailing edges. Hopefully I was successful
at attaching the pictures below. Has anyone had this same issue and came
up with a good way to fix it or any suggestions? Otherwise I will probably
cut off the end aft of the tip rib and layup a new trailing edge. Thanks.
>
>Eric Kallio
>40518 finishing wingtips and waiting to inventory fuselage
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116129#116129
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_outboard_186.jpg
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_inboard_977.jpg
>
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Text inserted by Panda Platinum 2005 Internet Security:
>
> This message has NOT been classified as spam. If it is unsolicited mail (spam), click on the following link to reclassify it: http://127.0.0.1:6083/Panda?ID=pav_48121&SPAM=true
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door Guides/Pins |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Dave has solved the magnetic pick-up problem for Van's door closed warning switch
using the door guides he makes. He inserted a magnet in the "bullet" of the
stainless steel door pin. This allows for the actuation of the magnetic pick-up
switch when mounted on the vertical intercostal.
Notice how the door pins do not extend pass the door edge. You will never scrape
your fuselage with this system! I've tried many times to close the door
with just the forward latch pin and have the aft pin not latch (as many RV10's
do, including Vans demonstrator). Can't happen. The door guides have a "funnel"
female shape so the door pins can guide in smoothly.
If the door only partially closes, the door handle cannot be closed because the
door pins hit the door guides! The door guides "rack" the door where it should
go when in the closed position. Very good safety feature along with the door
light switch.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116196#116196
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07925_527.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07940_196.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07947_135.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | wingtip suggestions |
The trailing edge of your wingtip can easily ride too high or too low if you
don't align it correctly before you drill the holes. Since the fiberglass
is not very thick and is thus not super-rigid, it can actually "twist"
around the radius of the leading edge, which will pull the trailing edge
either up or down accordingly. At least this is my experience. I have
usually seen that the tip is longer than needed, not shorter, but this could
easily be a modification of the mold or a different in the lay-up of the
glass. I agree that you should make sure your flap and aileron don't have a
twist (more likely in the flap), but the tip can run high or low depending
on how it is installed, independent of the aileron/flap rigging.
If you see that the wingtip is not right, then you may want to either
replace it or could probably find a way to re-glass your holes and redo
them. I personally like the hinge installation format as it makes it much
easier to install and remove as compared to 60+ screws, IMHO. Let me know
if this installation interests you and you can probably salvage the wingtip
if this even applies.
I hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 9:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: wingtip suggestions
I am finishing up the wings so I can start to inventory the fuse kit and am
having issues with the wingtips. The left wingtip is about 1/2 inch short
but it is straight so I can just lay-up and sand down successive layers of
glass. The right wingtip however is both 1/4 inch short and the trailing
edge is about 3/8 inch below the rigged aileron and flap trailing edges.
Hopefully I was successful at attaching the pictures below. Has anyone had
this same issue and came up with a good way to fix it or any suggestions?
Otherwise I will probably cut off the end aft of the tip rib and layup a new
trailing edge. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
40518 finishing wingtips and waiting to inventory fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116129#116129
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_outboard_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_inboard_977.jpg
--
12:47 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: wingtip suggestions |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)MSN.COM> |
Dave, I will try to align the rib again. The pics are deceiving a bit. I never
proclaimed to be a photographer. The aileron is straight as an arrow, picture
is a bit off center. A twisted aileron would have gone into the scrap metal pile.
I really had to wrestle with the wingtip to get it as close as it is. It has
a real good twist to it. I will keep trying to reset it and see what happens.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116210#116210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
I looked in the archives and couldn't quite find what I should order
with the wings. I also looked at Tim's site and maybe missed this
somewhere.
-Should I buy the strobes and positions lights now while building the
wings?
-Should I get the options Van's offers? Float fuel sender units, landing
lights?
- Should I get anything else?
I would also like recommendations of places to get things and part
numbers/ links, etc... I know Deems rated the LED lights he got very
highly, he also has a link for it, however that site also says to buy
the power unit and position lights elsewhere. William Curtis has a link
to Strobes n more and I saw a kit for $159..
In summary I am looking for what people bought, the place and part
number and when they actually put them in the wings.
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
I purchased everything from Van's with the wing kit: Aileron trim kit, Float
senders, landing lights, strobe light kits, flap positioning system. They
are all acceptable in my opinion and I am happy with them. Other options might
be more attractive for various reasons, but I have no specific complaints.
I installed the flap positioning system while I still had my fuselage in my
garage. The float senders and aileron trim need to be installed before hanging
the wings; but the landing lights and wing strobes were just about the last
thing I installed prior to DAR inspection (so you have plenty of time to
figure that out).
You might want to consider if you want a heated pitot (I used the Falcon
heated pitot and Gretz aero mount, both from Aircraft Spruce), and start
thinking how the installation will work out before you get to that point in wing
construction.
Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/3/2007 6:24:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rv10builder(at)verizon.net writes:
I looked in the archives and couldn't quite find what I should order with
the wings. I also looked at Tim's site and maybe missed this somewhere.
-Should I buy the strobes and positions lights now while building the wings?
-Should I get the options Van's offers? Float fuel sender units, landing
lights?
- Should I get anything else?
I would also like recommendations of places to get things and part numbers/
links, etc... I know Deems rated the LED lights he got very highly, he also
has a link for it, however that site also says to buy the power unit and
position lights elsewhere. William Curtis has a link to Strobes n more and I saw
a
kit for $159..
In summary I am looking for what people bought, the place and part number
and when they actually put them in the wings.
Thanks!
Pascal
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | wingtip suggestions |
Has anyone suggested heating the tip (heat gun) and pressuring it into
alignment until it cools?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: wingtip suggestions
The trailing edge of your wingtip can easily ride too high or too low if you
don't align it correctly before you drill the holes. Since the fiberglass
is not very thick and is thus not super-rigid, it can actually "twist"
around the radius of the leading edge, which will pull the trailing edge
either up or down accordingly. At least this is my experience. I have
usually seen that the tip is longer than needed, not shorter, but this could
easily be a modification of the mold or a different in the lay-up of the
glass. I agree that you should make sure your flap and aileron don't have a
twist (more likely in the flap), but the tip can run high or low depending
on how it is installed, independent of the aileron/flap rigging.
If you see that the wingtip is not right, then you may want to either
replace it or could probably find a way to re-glass your holes and redo
them. I personally like the hinge installation format as it makes it much
easier to install and remove as compared to 60+ screws, IMHO. Let me know
if this installation interests you and you can probably salvage the wingtip
if this even applies.
I hope this helps.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Eric_Kallio
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 9:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: wingtip suggestions
I am finishing up the wings so I can start to inventory the fuse kit and am
having issues with the wingtips. The left wingtip is about 1/2 inch short
but it is straight so I can just lay-up and sand down successive layers of
glass. The right wingtip however is both 1/4 inch short and the trailing
edge is about 3/8 inch below the rigged aileron and flap trailing edges.
Hopefully I was successful at attaching the pictures below. Has anyone had
this same issue and came up with a good way to fix it or any suggestions?
Otherwise I will probably cut off the end aft of the tip rib and layup a new
trailing edge. Thanks.
Eric Kallio
40518 finishing wingtips and waiting to inventory fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116129#116129
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_outboard_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wingtip_looking_inboard_977.jpg
--
12:47 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
Pascal,
Here is what I purchased while working on the wings.
>From Van's
* Aileron trim
* Flap position system (don't need until way later in the fuse kit)
* Fuel sending units
* Conduit
* Whelen taillight w/strobe
* ELT/Strobe Power Supply mounting kit
* Strobe wiring kit
* Qty 2 HID Duckworks landing lights
>From Others
* LED Nav & Strobe lights from Jeff (same as Deems)
* XPAK604X strobe power supply from Strobes N More. The mounting
holes line up perfectly w/Van's ELT/Strobe mounting kit.
* Gretz pitot mount from gretzaero (haven't yet ordered my pitot still
trying to decide which one).
None of the stuff really would be required to have with the wing kit if you
didn't rivet the bottom skins and waited to close up the fuel tanks you
could add everything listed above at any time. That said though I would
recommend fitting the gretz when you are fitting the bottom skins. The
leading edge landing lights I thought would have been much tougher with the
leading edges installed. If you plan on running conduit through the wing
you want to oversize the holes in the ribs to fit the conduit where Van's
tells you to use the snap in bushings. Although possible to do while
riveted in place it is much easier when the ribs are not attached to any
structure. I drilled the inner rib holes slightly larger than the outside
two ribs as this made it easier to thread the conduit through but still held
tight on the ends. I didn't write down the sizes I used so having the
conduit early to gauge the hole sizes would be a plus.
I'm still on the fence regarding AOA but you might consider that with your
wing kit if you plan on it. I already installed the stall warning mechanism
from Van's but if I were to get an AOA system I doubt I would use Van's
supplied stall warning kit.
Ben Westfall
#40579 Fuse Kit - Firewall
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 3:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What to get with the wing kit recommendations
I looked in the archives and couldn't quite find what I should order with
the wings. I also looked at Tim's site and maybe missed this somewhere.
-Should I buy the strobes and positions lights now while building the wings?
-Should I get the options Van's offers? Float fuel sender units, landing
lights?
- Should I get anything else?
I would also like recommendations of places to get things and part numbers/
links, etc... I know Deems rated the LED lights he got very highly, he also
has a link for it, however that site also says to buy the power unit and
position lights elsewhere. William Curtis has a link to Strobes n more and I
saw a kit for $159..
In summary I am looking for what people bought, the place and part number
and when they actually put them in the wings.
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
Don't forget the proseal :-) It is the only thing you will need to
start. All the rest can wait.
The other items that others have mentioned will be needed more towards
the end of the wing build
Conduit (if you are going that route)
Gretz pitot mount (for a heated pitot tube)
Aileron trim
and then the lighting choices.
For landing lights I chose the the LoPresti boom beams that they
announced this year at S&F (the still do not have them listed on there
web site <http://www.speedmods.com>)
And for strobes and Nav lights I have the Whelen A650 style purchased
from vans. Whelen should be out with a 12 volt LED version with the
same form factor at OSH. I was told that the pricing will be very
similar to the A650. We could only hope.
Nav antennas in the wing tips (get them from Stein)
Marker beacon antenna, just a stripped piece of coax, in one of the tips
Pascal wrote:
> I looked in the archives and couldn't quite find what I should order
> with the wings. I also looked at Tim's site and maybe missed this
> somewhere.
> -Should I buy the strobes and positions lights now while building the
> wings?
> -Should I get the options Van's offers? Float fuel sender units,
> landing lights?
> - Should I get anything else?
>
> I would also like recommendations of places to get things and part
> numbers/ links, etc... I know Deems rated the LED lights he got very
> highly, he also has a link for it, however that site also says to buy
> the power unit and position lights elsewhere. William Curtis has a
> link to Strobes n more and I saw a kit for $159..
>
>
> In summary I am looking for what people bought, the place and part
> number and when they actually put them in the wings.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pascal
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
On Jun 3, 2007, at 8:07 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
For landing lights I chose the the LoPresti boom beams that they
announced this year at S&F (the still do not have them listed on
there web site
Larry, I signed up for the LoPresti boom beams at SNF too. I have not
received them yet and my credit card has not been charged. I emailed
them last week and asked what the status is, but have not gotten an
answer. Do you have any information?
David Maib
40559
Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tru-Trak roll servo |
| From: | "dmaib(at)mac.com" <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
I am looking at the Tru-Trak web site to get a drawing and installation instructions
for my roll servo. I don't have the servo here with me and wonder if any
one can tell me if the RV-10 roll servo is the B servo, the C servo, the D servo,
or the HB servo? :?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116261#116261
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Tru-Trak roll servo |
I am pretty sure it is the C servo.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tru-Trak roll servo
I am looking at the Tru-Trak web site to get a drawing and installation
instructions for my roll servo. I don't have the servo here with me and
wonder if any one can tell me if the RV-10 roll servo is the B servo, the C
servo, the D servo, or the HB servo? :?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116261#116261
--
12:47 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
I saw in the archives Bob Condrey mounted the magnetometer in the
tailcone and the AHRS on a shelf behind the instrument panel. I like
this arrangement but have a question...Bob how did you comply with the
+/- 1/2 degree pitch alignment between the two boxes? What is the 10's
level line? Any other pictures or comments appreciated.
Also wondered if anybody thinks it possible to mount a bent whip in the
tunnel between the rear seats without bothering flight controls. Perhaps
off to one side? I like having access to things down the road, I really
dislike these closed off for good areas.
THanks
Chris Lucas
#40072... skipping all around the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tru-Trak roll servo |
Thanks Jesse. They drawings all look similar, but dimensions vary a bit.
David Maib
On Jun 3, 2007, at 9:20 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
I am pretty sure it is the C servo.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmaib(at)mac.com
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tru-Trak roll servo
I am looking at the Tru-Trak web site to get a drawing and installation
instructions for my roll servo. I don't have the servo here with me and
wonder if any one can tell me if the RV-10 roll servo is the B servo,
the C
servo, the D servo, or the HB servo? :?
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116261#116261
--
12:47 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
I got all my lights from http://www.creativair.com/. HID landing
lights, LED nav lights, wingtip strobes and power supply.
Taillight/strobe from Vans. The HIDs, navs and wingtip strobes all fit
under the wingtip lens. I will be installing them soon. No cutting the
wing.
Dave Leikam
40496
QB wings
----- Original Message -----
From: Pascal
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 4:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What to get with the wing kit recommendations
I looked in the archives and couldn't quite find what I should order
with the wings. I also looked at Tim's site and maybe missed this
somewhere.
-Should I buy the strobes and positions lights now while building the
wings?
-Should I get the options Van's offers? Float fuel sender units,
landing lights?
- Should I get anything else?
I would also like recommendations of places to get things and part
numbers/ links, etc... I know Deems rated the LED lights he got very
highly, he also has a link for it, however that site also says to buy
the power unit and position lights elsewhere. William Curtis has a link
to Strobes n more and I saw a kit for $159..
In summary I am looking for what people bought, the place and part
number and when they actually put them in the wings.
Thanks!
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Bob Nuckolls Seminar |
I just finished a weekend Aeroelectric seminar with Bob Nuckolls at EAA
chapter 1158 in West Bend, WI. I can't say enough about this
experience. Bob's presentation and class were outstanding. Bob is the
kind of guy you would like to sit with for hours picking his brain. His
knowledge and experience with aviation electronics is vast. I recommend
this class to anyone able to attend. I came away with much more
confidence that I would be able to dive into my electrical system and do
a good job. He cleared up many myths and misconceptions about aircraft
wiring methods and backed up all his ideas very clearly. All his
methods are centered on safety, simplicity and also cost saving! I was
surprised at how many things I thought I should have in my system that
Bob showed us are not needed or could be done much simpler and for less
money and safer too! It is obvious that he really loves to pass on all
the experience he has gained and he is very good at it. Thanks Bob for
a great Seminar!
Oh yeah, Chapter 1158 has a beautiful facility and were great hosts for
this event. Thanks EAA 1158!
Dave Leikam
RV-10 40496
Muskego, WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
I mounted my marker beacon antenna between the rear seats. No problem with
pushrod or rudder cable interference. I mounted the bent whip antenna under
the passenger seat. You don't want the bent whip antenna too far aft as it will
get closer to the ground during takeoff rotation and landing flare /
aerobraking the further back you mount it. Pictures attached.
-Jim
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
In a message dated 6/3/2007 10:25:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
toaster73(at)earthlink.net writes:
Also wondered if anybody thinks it possible to mount a bent whip in the
tunnel between the rear seats without bothering flight controls. Perhaps off to
one side? I like having access to things down the road, I really dislike
these closed off for good areas.
THanks
Chris Lucas
#40072... skipping all around the fuselage
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
I don't think between the rear seats is a good place for an antenna. The
control rod is so low there that I think it would be too risky to have
anything sticking up from the belly skin there. One possibility for a bent
whip is to put it under the baggage floor (with nutplates in the skin), just
off center, and then you can either get at it through the lightening holes
or you can put in an access panel. I wouldn't put an access panel under the
rear seat floor because there has to be some structural reason that there
are no lightening holes in that area. Has anybody had any problems putting
them under the front seats, one on either side? I seem to remember someone
mentioning that the gear legs can get in the way. We haven't tested them,
but have very good reception with that arrangement.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
toaster73(at)earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
I saw in the archives Bob Condrey mounted the magnetometer in the tailcone
and the AHRS on a shelf behind the instrument panel. I like this arrangement
but have a question...Bob how did you comply with the +/- 1/2 degree pitch
alignment between the two boxes? What is the 10's level line? Any other
pictures or comments appreciated.
Also wondered if anybody thinks it possible to mount a bent whip in the
tunnel between the rear seats without bothering flight controls. Perhaps off
to one side? I like having access to things down the road, I really dislike
these closed off for good areas.
THanks
Chris Lucas
#40072... skipping all around the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
It does not matter where the level line is, that will be taken care of
during alignment procedures, what does matter is that both are with in
the tolerance difference. The easy way to make sure they are the same is
to take the smart level device and match the degrees it is saying for
both locations. I ordered the smart level from Amazon and got the one
with the 4 foot and 2 foot level bars, then you can swap the tool
between them and use it stand alone. It made setting travel of
elevators/rudders/ ailerons very easy to determine and makes alignment
of both the Dynon and Chelton remote magnetometers a non-issue.
just my .02
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
toaster73(at)earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
I saw in the archives Bob Condrey mounted the magnetometer in the
tailcone and the AHRS on a shelf behind the instrument panel. I like
this arrangement but have a question...Bob how did you comply with the
+/- 1/2 degree pitch alignment between the two boxes? What is the 10's
level line? Any other pictures or comments appreciated.
Also wondered if anybody thinks it possible to mount a bent whip in the
tunnel between the rear seats without bothering flight controls. Perhaps
off to one side? I like having access to things down the road, I really
dislike these closed off for good areas.
THanks
Chris Lucas
#40072... skipping all around the fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
On this note, it may be good for all Dynon customers to know that the Dynon
magnetometer needs to be very close to the same orientation as the unit.
Dynon says that it needs to be within a degree in all directions. Dan, can
you post a picture of your installation on this?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
It does not matter where the level line is, that will be taken care of
during alignment procedures, what does matter is that both are with in the
tolerance difference. The easy way to make sure they are the same is to take
the smart level device and match the degrees it is saying for both
locations. I ordered the smart level from Amazon and got the one with the 4
foot and 2 foot level bars, then you can swap the tool between them and use
it stand alone. It made setting travel of elevators/rudders/ ailerons very
easy to determine and makes alignment of both the Dynon and Chelton remote
magnetometers a non-issue.
just my .02
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
toaster73(at)earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
I saw in the archives Bob Condrey mounted the magnetometer in the tailcone
and the AHRS on a shelf behind the instrument panel. I like this arrangement
but have a question...Bob how did you comply with the +/- 1/2 degree pitch
alignment between the two boxes? What is the 10's level line? Any other
pictures or comments appreciated.
Also wondered if anybody thinks it possible to mount a bent whip in the
tunnel between the rear seats without bothering flight controls. Perhaps off
to one side? I like having access to things down the road, I really dislike
these closed off for good areas.
THanks
Chris Lucas
#40072... skipping all around the fuselage
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I can't take pictures right now because I'm out of town on a biz trip but can take
some next weekend if you don't get your questions answered by then.
The magnetometer is aligned to the center J channel in the tailcone and is mounted
to the adjacent J channels. I made "hangers" out of .032 and made an alum
angle tray that the magnetometer is mount to. The tray was mounted and then
I used plum bobs to align the mount holes for the yaw axis. I went as close to
the top as possible to maximize distance from the AP roll servo and battery
contactors (I have 2). Pitch iand roll axis was rerenced to the longerons and
using a digital level.
The AHRS is mounted on a tray that is attached to the right panel rib between the
subpanel and firewall. It uses the panel rib for yaw axis and and the upper
aluminum firewall structure for roll axis. Pitch axis was set and other axis
confirmed with a digital level.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116379#116379
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Will do, as soon as I mount the wing next week for the final time, right
now they are still in the cradle waiting for the fuse to come back from
paint. What I did was to measure the Dynon as it sits in the panel and
replicated the angel offset with the smart tool and used the remote
mount unit from Safeair to put it out on the last rib of the wing. I
will post the pics next week when I get to the airport.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:32 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
On this note, it may be good for all Dynon customers to know that the
Dynon magnetometer needs to be very close to the same orientation as the
unit. Dynon says that it needs to be within a degree in all directions.
Dan, can you post a picture of your installation on this?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:15 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
It does not matter where the level line is, that will be taken care of
during alignment procedures, what does matter is that both are with in
the tolerance difference. The easy way to make sure they are the same is
to take the smart level device and match the degrees it is saying for
both locations. I ordered the smart level from Amazon and got the one
with the 4 foot and 2 foot level bars, then you can swap the tool
between them and use it stand alone. It made setting travel of
elevators/rudders/ ailerons very easy to determine and makes alignment
of both the Dynon and Chelton remote magnetometers a non-issue.
just my .02
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
toaster73(at)earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 10:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
I saw in the archives Bob Condrey mounted the magnetometer in the
tailcone and the AHRS on a shelf behind the instrument panel. I like
this arrangement but have a question...Bob how did you comply with the
+/- 1/2 degree pitch alignment between the two boxes? What is the 10's
level line? Any other pictures or comments appreciated.
Also wondered if anybody thinks it possible to mount a bent whip in the
tunnel between the rear seats without bothering flight controls. Perhaps
off to one side? I like having access to things down the road, I really
dislike these closed off for good areas.
THanks
Chris Lucas
#40072... skipping all around the fuselage
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sound proofing the 10 ? |
| From: | "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com> |
At Sun-N-Fun I went to a forum on redoing aircraft interiors. The
speaker had a piece of aluminum from a Beech interior where contact
cement was used to attach some foam during the previous interior
installation. Where the contact cement was used, on bare aluminum, sever
corrosion had set in. By contrast the other side of the aluminum was
bright and shiny. His recommendation was to acid etch, alodine and zinc
chromate before applying contact cement to aluminum. He didn't mention
any other primers and I didn't ask. No primer wars just passing
information along.
Vern Smith (#324 fuselage)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hurst
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sound proofing the 10 ?
John,
That's what concerns me. All the references that I've read state that I
should use contact cement (or some state that one side of the insulating
material contains an adhesive) all of which would prevent inspection of
the aluminum structure. And yes I did mean "Approved" in the sense of
the FAR rule. A product that will NOT absorb moisture or odor, is long
lasting and durable. Application for both sound and thermal barrier,
more so on the sound side. As far as weight is concerned, I didn't
think that it would add a considerable amount, possibly 8-10 pounds.
That is just an estimate and I didn't think that it was an issue for my
family. Considering that our total weight is ~ 550 pounds (4 people).
Also, I'm presently looking for the April 2005 Sport Aviation issue to
see what's recommended. It's on the EAA website but not linkable, its on
page 52 Taming the Noise
http://www.eaa.org/benefits/sportaviation/0504_toc.html
John
#40102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <toaster73(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting |
Thanks for the replies. I get the idea now. Pictures are not necessary,
Bob, unless you feel compelled to share.
Jesse, are you saying you have been mounting the bent whip under the front
seats in your planes, with no com problems in flight, at least none detected
thus far via normal operation etc .etc.?
Thanks
Chris
#40072
----- Original Message -----
From: "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 11:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: GRT AHRS and Magnetometer mounting
>
> I can't take pictures right now because I'm out of town on a biz trip but
> can take some next weekend if you don't get your questions answered by
> then.
>
> The magnetometer is aligned to the center J channel in the tailcone and is
> mounted to the adjacent J channels. I made "hangers" out of .032 and made
> an alum angle tray that the magnetometer is mount to. The tray was
> mounted and then I used plum bobs to align the mount holes for the yaw
> axis. I went as close to the top as possible to maximize distance from
> the AP roll servo and battery contactors (I have 2). Pitch iand roll axis
> was rerenced to the longerons and using a digital level.
>
> The AHRS is mounted on a tray that is attached to the right panel rib
> between the subpanel and firewall. It uses the panel rib for yaw axis and
> and the upper aluminum firewall structure for roll axis. Pitch axis was
> set and other axis confirmed with a digital level.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116379#116379
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
I just got of the phone with speed mods and they just got engineering
approval for a modification that tweaked the reflectors and they should
start shipping kits this week.
Larry Rosen
#356
David Maib wrote:
>
> On Jun 3, 2007, at 8:07 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> For landing lights I chose the the LoPresti boom beams that they
> announced this year at S&F (the still do not have them listed on there
> web site
>
> Larry, I signed up for the LoPresti boom beams at SNF too. I have not
> received them yet and my credit card has not been charged. I emailed
> them last week and asked what the status is, but have not gotten an
> answer. Do you have any information?
>
> David Maib
> 40559
> Wings
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim C" <tlc2(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sound proofing the 10 ? |
Early Chris Heinz (Zenithair/Zenair) designs cemented building foam to
the inside of the fuselage to dampen the oil canning noise.
Tim C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sound proofing the 10 ? |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
John - I tried to forward the PDF copy of the article to you but your
server restricts files of such size. I will try to reduce the
resolution.
Vern is dead on with what we see with airframes during our Heavy Checks
"C" checks. Insulation should be able to be easily removed for visual
inspection of corrosion. The lower the insulation, the more it is
exposed to condensate. The natural humidity present in vapor will
condense and have no means of escape. For most builders, it is probably
a trade off they have decided to make. Quieter, cooler and willing to
run the risk of replacing lower skins way down the road. We do see the
condensation run (due to gravity) just like a wet towel on a rack. This
is a secondary reason why wiring should be run high on a sidewall (above
fluid lines) and not run down near the wet insulation under the
flooring.
Boy don't you envy those guys in Arizona, New Mexico and Texas right
now?
On a Cessna 150 that I just completed an annual on. We removed 5 =BD
quarts of water that was setting in the empennage. The drain hole had
plugged and it was amazing the lake of water found in the tail in May.
Drain holes, now there is another road to discuss.
John Cox
#40600
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vern W. Smith
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 2:32 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Sound proofing the 10 ?
At Sun-N-Fun I went to a forum on redoing aircraft interiors. The
speaker had a piece of aluminum from a Beech interior where contact
cement was used to attach some foam during the previous interior
installation. Where the contact cement was used, on bare aluminum, sever
corrosion had set in. By contrast the other side of the aluminum was
bright and shiny. His recommendation was to acid etch, alodine and zinc
chromate before applying contact cement to aluminum. He didn't mention
any other primers and I didn't ask. No primer wars just passing
information along.
Vern Smith (#324 fuselage)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hurst
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Sound proofing the 10 ?
John,
That's what concerns me. All the references that I've read state that I
should use contact cement (or some state that one side of the insulating
material contains an adhesive) all of which would prevent inspection of
the aluminum structure. And yes I did mean "Approved" in the sense of
the FAR rule. A product that will NOT absorb moisture or odor, is long
lasting and durable. Application for both sound and thermal barrier,
more so on the sound side. As far as weight is concerned, I didn't
think that it would add a considerable amount, possibly 8-10 pounds.
That is just an estimate and I didn't think that it was an issue for my
family. Considering that our total weight is ~ 550 pounds (4 people).
Also, I'm presently looking for the April 2005 Sport Aviation issue to
see what's recommended. It's on the EAA website but not linkable, its on
page 52 Taming the Noise
http://www.eaa.org/benefits/sportaviation/0504_toc.html
John
#40102
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tru Trak 2 1/4 ADI |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Since well before Sun-n-Fun they (TT) have been quoting 6 weeks - must be a different
calendar than the rest of us use... I tossed in the towel a couple weeks
ago and am just going to put in a T&B.
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116552#116552
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ignition Harness for sale |
| From: | <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Builders:
Somehow I ended up with an extra Champion ignition harness for the
IO-540. It is model number CH12154E, straight from Aircraft Spruce,
still in the original packaging and everything.
Lists for $438.95 at Aircraft Spruce, I'll sell it for $300 or the best
reasonable offer.
Email me offline at the below address if you are interested.
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
Aurora Flight Sciences
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-401-2522
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What to get with the wing kit recommendations |
Thanks for the information Larry.
David Maib
40559
On Jun 4, 2007, at 5:20 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> I just got of the phone with speed mods and they just got
> engineering approval for a modification that tweaked the reflectors
> and they should start shipping kits this week.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
>
> David Maib wrote:
>>
>> On Jun 3, 2007, at 8:07 PM, Larry Rosen wrote:
>>
>> For landing lights I chose the the LoPresti boom beams that they
>> announced this year at S&F (the still do not have them listed on
>> there web site
>>
>> Larry, I signed up for the LoPresti boom beams at SNF too. I have
>> not received them yet and my credit card has not been charged. I
>> emailed them last week and asked what the status is, but have not
>> gotten an answer. Do you have any information?
>>
>> David Maib
>> 40559
>> Wings
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Guides/Pins |
Zack: Remind me who "Dave" is, and where one can order his door
handle/latch system. Thanks, Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 4:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door Guides/Pins
>
> Dave has solved the magnetic pick-up problem for Van's door closed warning
> switch using the door guides he makes. He inserted a magnet in the
> "bullet" of the stainless steel door pin. This allows for the actuation
> of the magnetic pick-up switch when mounted on the vertical intercostal.
>
> Notice how the door pins do not extend pass the door edge. You will
> never scrape your fuselage with this system! I've tried many times to
> close the door with just the forward latch pin and have the aft pin not
> latch (as many RV10's do, including Vans demonstrator). Can't happen.
> The door guides have a "funnel" female shape so the door pins can guide in
> smoothly.
>
> If the door only partially closes, the door handle cannot be closed
> because the door pins hit the door guides! The door guides "rack" the
> door where it should go when in the closed position. Very good safety
> feature along with the door light switch.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116196#116196
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07925_527.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07940_196.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07947_135.jpg
>
>
> --
> 5:26 PM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door Guides/Pins |
Zack is related to Rivethead aka Full Throttle Concepts which you can
find on the web at <http://www.rivethead-aero.com>
In addition to what is on the web site they are working on the door
guides and door handles for the 10.
Larry
Jay Rowe wrote:
>
> Zack: Remind me who "Dave" is, and where one can order his door
> handle/latch system. Thanks, Jay Rowe
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 4:17 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Door Guides/Pins
>
>
>>
>> Dave has solved the magnetic pick-up problem for Van's door closed
>> warning switch using the door guides he makes. He inserted a magnet
>> in the "bullet" of the stainless steel door pin. This allows for the
>> actuation of the magnetic pick-up switch when mounted on the vertical
>> intercostal.
>>
>> Notice how the door pins do not extend pass the door edge. You will
>> never scrape your fuselage with this system! I've tried many times
>> to close the door with just the forward latch pin and have the aft
>> pin not latch (as many RV10's do, including Vans demonstrator).
>> Can't happen. The door guides have a "funnel" female shape so the
>> door pins can guide in smoothly.
>>
>> If the door only partially closes, the door handle cannot be closed
>> because the door pins hit the door guides! The door guides "rack"
>> the door where it should go when in the closed position. Very good
>> safety feature along with the door light switch.
>>
>> Zack
>>
>> --------
>> RV8 #80125
>> RV10 # 40512
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116196#116196
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07925_527.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07940_196.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc07947_135.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> 5:26 PM
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gjcostigan(at)alphabs.com |
| Subject: | Fuselage Inventory Spreadsheets |
My standard build fuselage is scheduled to ship this week. I wanted to
ask if anyone had excel spreadsheets for the parts inventory and bag
lists? I had them for the wing kit and it really helped to organize
everything and made finding parts much easier. Any last hardware that is
known to be missing or short that I should be ordering? Thanks, George40434
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ShowPlanes Flaps |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey Deems -
Howzit going? I'm getting back in the swing of things after my surgery,
and trying to get a move on with this fiberglass junk. I did have a
specific question for you though...
Does the OP tech unit use the Freeflight GPS exclusively? Are you
waiting for a resolution there? I'm still smarting a bit from that
stuff. After all the D2A fiasco, the Freeflight VFR ONLY thing was just
a slap right in the face. I spoke with them after I figured out that my
cool remote mount GPS unit makes a nicer paperweight than it does an IFR
GPS, and they said that their new unit would be forthcoming. Whatever
that means. What's your status with respect to the GPS piece of your
avionics puzzle? Inquiring minds want to know!
Also, those door latch thingys are cool lookin! And timely! Any news
on when they'll be available? And what about the handle part? I could
try to build them myself on my mill, but I'm finding that I have a new
respect for CNC operations, and I'm limiting myself to only building
stuff that doesn't exist yet! Just adding weeks and months to my build!
I did put up some pics of the CNC stuff. It's here:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/CNC%20Desktop
%20Mill.html
hope all is going well out there! I can't wait for you to run out of
parts already! Cause you know what happens then!
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net - newly updated! Sort of...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | not showplanes flaps...GPS! |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Forgot to change the subject...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ignition Harness for sale |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
Does't it come with the engine from Vans??
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=116670#116670
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ShowPlanes Flaps |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Whoops. Meant to email deems with this directly. Sorry.
c
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ShowPlanes Flaps
Hey Deems -
Howzit going? I'm getting back in the swing of things after my surgery,
and trying to get a move on with this fiberglass junk. I did have a
specific question for you though...
Does the OP tech unit use the Freeflight GPS exclusively? Are you
waiting for a resolution there? I'm still smarting a bit from that
stuff. After all the D2A fiasco, the Freeflight VFR ONLY thing was just
a slap right in the face. I spoke with them after I figured out that my
cool remote mount GPS unit makes a nicer paperweight than it does an IFR
GPS, and they said that their new unit would be forthcoming. Whatever
that means. What's your status with respect to the GPS piece of your
avionics puzzle? Inquiring minds want to know!
Also, those door latch thingys are cool lookin! And timely! Any news
on when they'll be available? And what about the handle part? I could
try to build them myself on my mill, but I'm finding that I have a new
respect for CNC operations, and I'm limiting myself to only building
stuff that doesn't exist yet! Just adding weeks and months to my build!
I did put up some pics of the CNC stuff. It's here:
http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/Perfectlygoodairplane/CNC%20Desktop
%20Mill.html
hope all is going well out there! I can't wait for you to run out of
parts already! Cause you know what happens then!
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net> -
newly updated! Sort of...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ShowPlanes Flaps |
CJ, and anyone else that's interested.....
The OP tech will take input from ANY GPS that can supply it on an RS 232
feed. I also allows for multiple GPS inputs, Each OP Tech display also
comes with it's own built in GPS, the Crossbow AHRS has it's WAAS
'enabled' GPS, and I'm installing the Freeflight Certified WAAS GPS
sensor. (total of 4 hard mounted gps receivers on board) You can select
from the MFD/PFD which GPS you want to be active.The only somewhat
limiting factor is that each GPS needs it's own antenna, and I don't'
really want 4 GPS antennas mounted. I'll use the Freeflight as the
primary and the Crossbow as the backup.
Re Freeflight, - after a long silence while they were undergoing
recertification. they finally said in Feb, they would have Certified
units avail in May. And low and behold, I got a call from Op Tech, May 2
asking me if I still wanted the Freeflight, it arrived 2 day's later!!
(Tru Trak, take notice!!!!!!!). You should not have a problem ordering
and obtaining one in short order.
Caution: the re certified Freeflight cost more than the old certified
sensor.
Re latch's Per recent post from Zack (Dave's Uncle), Dave has now
incorporated the magnet into the 'bullet' enabling the use of Van's door
ajar sensor mod. I have no knowledge of the door handle, as I went
another direction.
Your CNC stuff looks way cool, from an ex-nerd I could see myself tying
up 100's of hours in something like that, better you than me!!!
Deems
working off a smaller parts stash
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage inventory spreadsheet |
Tim;
I don't have a way to import the information. Thanks for offering. I
faxed my copy to you. Hope it helps.
Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | What's up with Tru-Trak servos? |
I have a TT roll in my wing purchased some time ago from Van's. Yesterday I
tried to order the Pitch servo through them and was refused. The explanation
was "we no longer split servo orders from Nav heads because they might not all
work together". (insert lawyer and accountant disclaimer here)
What's up with that? I can see the Nav head technology churning, but
significant changes to servo electronics seem a bit surprising. Am I missing
something? How many -10 builders are in the same boat?
Regards,
Jay
Plumbing brake and fuel lines
P.S. I was able to purchase a TT pitch servo through my new best friends in
Farmington. :-)
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | What's up with Tru-Trak servos? |
Jay,
I would suggest working this through with someone like Stein who specializes
in avionics rather than Van's. Van's sells accessories more as a convenience
than their core business and you are likely to have more options with an avionics
shop.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Brinkmeyer
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 3:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: What's up with Tru-Trak servos?
I have a TT roll in my wing purchased some time ago from Van's. Yesterday I
tried to order the Pitch servo through them and was refused. The explanation
was "we no longer split servo orders from Nav heads because they might not all
work together". (insert lawyer and accountant disclaimer here)
What's up with that? I can see the Nav head technology churning, but
significant changes to servo electronics seem a bit surprising. Am I missing
something? How many -10 builders are in the same boat?
Regards,
Jay
Plumbing brake and fuel lines
P.S. I was able to purchase a TT pitch servo through my new best friends in
Farmington. :-)
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | TruTrak 2-1/4 ADI...the rest of the story |
| From: | "Andrew Barker" <andrew(at)trutrakap.com> |
Well, I have been watching this thread with interest for a few da
ys. I might have even gotten a few phone calls warning me about
it. I know that you all know I monitor the list, so I typically
try to stay out of the discussions. But.since Jesse asked me a q
uestion directly, I must jump in! (Thanks Jesse!)
There are many reasons that the 2" ADI has been delayed as long a
s it has. One of the biggest is me. I personally did all of the
engineering and design of the product. Yes, we already had the
3" version, so schematics were obviously not a problem. Between
all of my normal daily duties, and engineering on other new produ
cts (yes, the EFIS is certainly one of the big ones) the 2" ADI s
imply kept getting bumped back. There are somewhere between 150
and 200 on order right now. We have a few units out right now fl
ying in different aircraft, just making double sure that we (read
"I") didn't do anything stupid. I am not writing this email to
convince you that what we have done is the best move, simply to i
nform you as to where we are. I will not fill you all full of BS
and say that you all are important to me, and I will do everythi
ng I can to make everything right.You all already know that. Wha
t we need to do is get the product out the door, and do it ASAP.
That is what we are working on, and that is what will happen as
soon as it can. It is out of engineering now; we have the produc
tion line setup, and are currently building pre-production units
for testing. I really do appreciate the patience that you all ha
ve had with me on this product. I agree with you all, making pro
mises and not keeping them is very detrimental to a company's rep
utation. I am only hopeful that we have learned from our promisi
ng a product that we can't deliver. I personally apologize to yo
u all.
Now, as to the EFIS, if I could control all of the mouths around
here that make promises, the delivery date would always have been
January 08. I hope that we are ahead of that, but I certainly c
an't make any promises of delivery before that. We are test flyi
ng pre-production units right now.
As Paul Harvey might say, "And now you know.the rest of the story
."
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
Toll Free: 866-TRUTRAK
www.trutrakap.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: TruTrak 2-1/4 ADI...the rest of the story |
Thanks for the response but we would all like to know WHEN (ASAP is way
too vague). A delivery date is especially important to those of us now
in the process of putting our panels together. Jay Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Barker
To: RV10-List(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: RV10-List: TruTrak 2-1/4 ADI...the rest of the story
Well, I have been watching this thread with interest for a few days.
I might have even gotten a few phone calls warning me about it. I know
that you all know I monitor the list, so I typically try to stay out of
the discussions. But.since Jesse asked me a question directly, I must
jump in! (Thanks Jesse!)
There are many reasons that the 2" ADI has been delayed as long as it
has. One of the biggest is me. I personally did all of the engineering
and design of the product. Yes, we already had the 3" version, so
schematics were obviously not a problem. Between all of my normal daily
duties, and engineering on other new products (yes, the EFIS is
certainly one of the big ones) the 2" ADI simply kept getting bumped
back. There are somewhere between 150 and 200 on order right now. We
have a few units out right now flying in different aircraft, just making
double sure that we (read "I") didn't do anything stupid. I am not
writing this email to convince you that what we have done is the best
move, simply to inform you as to where we are. I will not fill you all
full of BS and say that you all are important to me, and I will do
everything I can to make everything right.You all already know that.
What we need to do is get the product out the door, and do it ASAP.
That is what we are working on, and that is what will happen as soon as
it can. It is out of engineering now; we have the production line
setup, and are currently building pre-production units for testing. I
really do appreciate the patience that you all have had with me on this
product. I agree with you all, making promises and not keeping them is
very detrimental to a company's reputation. I am only hopeful that we
have learned from our promising a product that we can't deliver. I
personally apologize to you all.
Now, as to the EFIS, if I could control all of the mouths around here
that make promises, the delivery date would always have been January 08.
I hope that we are ahead of that, but I certainly can't make any
promises of delivery before that. We are test flying pre-production
units right now.
As Paul Harvey might say, "And now you know.the rest of the story."
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
Toll Free: 866-TRUTRAK
www.trutrakap.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
6/5/2007 2:38 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aircraft Spruce" <info(at)aircraftspruce.com> |
| Subject: | Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce |
One of our longtime customers posted a complaint about a delay on an
order for PTI paints from Aircraft Spruce, and we want to report that
the situation has been resolved to our customer's satisfaction. There
was some confusion on our part regarding a few of the PTI products that
were backordered, but that has been corrected and all the PTI products
are shipping directly from the factory to our customer. We have extended
our apology to our customer and assured him that we value his business
and look forward to continuing to serve him during the RV project.
If anyone has a question or concern please do not hesitate to contact us
and we will look into the matter immediately.
Aircraft Spruce Customer Service
custsvc(at)aircraftspruce.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
I think it's both interesting and encouraging that we have at least two three four
large name companies involved in montioring this list, and I'm sure others
as well. It shows the growing force the RV-10 has in the industry as well as
shows the interest that companies are developing products that directly support
it.
Barrett
SteinAir
Tru-Trak
Aircraft S&S
Just a thought. I start packing the shop in a couple of days for a move and am
going to wax philosophical while my hands are idle...
Rob Wright
#392
Canopy
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I just received serial 7001 of the new XM box from GRT. I will have it
running tomorrow in my Glastar and bring to OSH (Thursday to Saturday) in
N48007. My plan is to use the GRT Sport PFD/MFD to backup the Cheltons in my
10 and when necessary as the display for XM weather. I will provide a PIREP
in August after returning from OSH.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce |
It sure is amazing how powerful a tool the internet can be and how people or
companies(corporations) become very accountable when there is a perceived
impact on their business.
Two responses form two seperate businesses in two days, that's pretty good.
Of course there are some that would do the right thing regardless of an
economic impact on their company.
It's a good thing!
>From: "Aircraft Spruce" <info(at)aircraftspruce.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RV10-List: Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce
>Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2007 15:59:24 -0700
>
>To: RV Builders
>One of our longtime customers posted a complaint about a delay on an order
>for PTI paints from Aircraft Spruce, and we want to report that the
>situation has been resolved to our customer's satisfaction. There was some
>confusion on our part regarding a few of the PTI products that were
>backordered, but that has been corrected and all the PTI products are
>shipping directly from the factory to our customer. We have extended our
>apology to our customer and assured him that we value his business and look
>forward to continuing to serve him during the RV project.
>
>If anyone has a question or concern please do not hesitate to contact us
>and we will look into the matter immediately.
>
>Aircraft Spruce Customer Service
>
>custsvc(at)aircraftspruce.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
A few days ago a Citation jet carrying a crew of two and 4 medical
personnel including organ transplant doctors, went down in Lake Michigan
just off shore from Milwaukee, WI shortly after takeoff. The pilot
declared an emergency due to severe control problems and was cleared to
return to MKE. No survivors. First my condolences to the families and
friends. Next, preliminary reports are that the crash may have been due
to "Runaway trim." Our RV-10s have electric trim. Should we or has
anyone installed a trim power disconnect of some sort? I realize that
the forces to overcome full trim on the 10 are not as great as a
Citation, but would this be prudent? After Attending Bob Nuckolls
seminar and hearing his reasons for not installing circuit breakers
which I generally agree with, would this be a reason for a pullable
breaker on this circuit? What do you guys and gals think? Mr.
Nuckolls, how about your thoughts?
Dave Leikam
40496 RV-10
QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
A very tragic accident by all accounts.
I have almost all electric circuits through a Main Bus-E-Bus-Battery Bus
fuse system ala Nuckolls. I made sure that ALL flight controls (trim,
flaps, AP etc) are available on breakers with easy access for quick
power removal.
cheers,
Ron
187 finishing (endlessly)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, 7 June 2007 2:31 PM
To: RV-10 matronics; aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Runaway trim
A few days ago a Citation jet carrying a crew of two and 4
medical personnel including organ transplant doctors, went down in Lake
Michigan just off shore from Milwaukee, WI shortly after takeoff. The
pilot declared an emergency due to severe control problems and was
cleared to return to MKE. No survivors. First my condolences to the
families and friends. Next, preliminary reports are that the crash may
have been due to "Runaway trim." Our RV-10s have electric trim. Should
we or has anyone installed a trim power disconnect of some sort? I
realize that the forces to overcome full trim on the 10 are not as great
as a Citation, but would this be prudent? After Attending Bob Nuckolls
seminar and hearing his reasons for not installing circuit breakers
which I generally agree with, would this be a reason for a pullable
breaker on this circuit? What do you guys and gals think? Mr.
Nuckolls, how about your thoughts?
Dave Leikam
40496 RV-10
QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim C" <tlc2(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: high profile |
I manage around a dozen groups 4500 members last 9 yrs......Jim Irwin
used to drop into my Bearhawk Group when there was a gripe......Once he
replied to a member that was complaining about recent lack of customer
service......Jim, posted a simple reply that he must be mistaken as it
was over 5 yrs since her purchased anything from ACS.....We all Laughed
Quietly.
Tim Cramb
Cold Lk.
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Wright
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: high profile
I think it's both interesting and encouraging that we have at least
two three four large name companies involved in montioring this list,
and I'm sure others as well. It shows the growing force the RV-10 has
in the industry as well as shows the interest that companies are
developing products that directly support it.
Barrett
SteinAir
Tru-Trak
Aircraft S&S
Just a thought. I start packing the shop in a couple of days for a
move and am going to wax philosophical while my hands are idle...
Rob Wright
#392
Canopy
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who
knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
There are only a few pull-able breakers on my panel, the rest of the devices are
protected by fuses. The only pull-able breakers are the alternator, alternator
field, flaps, autopilot and the pitch trim.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/91Panel/index.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-SmarterMail-Spam: BAYESIAN FILTERING
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> A few days ago a Citation jet carrying a crew of two and 4 medical personnel
including organ transplant doctors, went down in Lake Michigan just off shore
from Milwaukee, WI shortly after takeoff. The pilot declared an emergency due
to severe control problems and was cleared to return to MKE. No survivors.
First my condolences to the families and friends. Next, preliminary reports are
that the crash may have been due to "Runaway trim." Our RV-10s have electric
trim. Should we or has anyone installed a trim power disconnect of some sort?
I realize that the forces to overcome full trim on the 10 are not as great
as a Citation, but would this be prudent? After Attending Bob Nuckolls seminar
and hearing his reasons for not installing circuit breakers which I generally
agree with, would this be a reason for a pullable breaker on this circuit?
What do you guys and gals think? Mr. Nuckolls, how about your thoughts?
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496 RV-10
> QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
I have heard 2 stories of how the -10 was inadvertently trimmed nose-up
while the auto-pilot was engaged. The a-p held until it couldn't hold
anymore and then let go, putting the plane in an unusual attitude VERY
quickly. The first one had the original servo and the second was with a
high-torque servo, which was more dramatic. If the first pilot hadn't
mentioned his experience to the second pilot, he said he probably would have
wet his pants, if not more. I put just about everything on a pullable
breaker. Lights and fans and stuff like that, as Tim mentioned, can be on
fuses, but having everything on breakers so you can shed load manually if
you have an alternator failure, which DOES happen, is a good idea. Breakers
cost about $16 each for the good Klixon ones, so 20 of them is going to cost
just over $300, but probably less than $300 more than you would spend on the
alternative. Just being able to shed loads when you are working on settings
with the plane off is well worth it, IMHO.
One thing to keep in mind, though, is that if the trim gets into a situation
like I mentioned above, pulling a breaker will NOT solve the problem, but
will rather make it worse, because with no power you will not be able to get
it back in trim. If your trim system goes bad, gets a short, has a bad
switch or something like that so it starts trimming by itself, then you need
to be able to get rid of the power. I also know of a case where a trim
relay board went bad in one direction, so the plane was trimmed too far one
way and they the pilot couldn't get it back. The trip was only about 30
minutes, but he said his arm was absolutely exhausted by the time he got
there. The -10 has a LOT of trim and is a big plane to pull against the
trim on.
A word to the wise - when flying on a-p, disengage from time to time to trim
the plane, even if you have the trim-sensing servo (which is fantastic, by
the way) and especially if you have aileron and/or rudder trim. Having the
plane trimmed right when you disengage for whatever reason, especially if it
is on an IFR approach, is very important.
In short, you do want a way to kill the trim power quickly if you have
"runaway trim", but if you may have been pushing it accidentally, then
cutting the power will make the problem worse. My suggestion in any case,
cut the power and then assess the situation to see if it was you or some
plane problem.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 1:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Runaway trim
A few days ago a Citation jet carrying a crew of two and 4 medical personnel
including organ transplant doctors, went down in Lake Michigan just off
shore from Milwaukee, WI shortly after takeoff. The pilot declared an
emergency due to severe control problems and was cleared to return to MKE.
No survivors. First my condolences to the families and friends. Next,
preliminary reports are that the crash may have been due to "Runaway trim."
Our RV-10s have electric trim. Should we or has anyone installed a trim
power disconnect of some sort? I realize that the forces to overcome full
trim on the 10 are not as great as a Citation, but would this be prudent?
After Attending Bob Nuckolls seminar and hearing his reasons for not
installing circuit breakers which I generally agree with, would this be a
reason for a pullable breaker on this circuit? What do you guys and gals
think? Mr. Nuckolls, how about your thoughts?
Dave Leikam
40496 RV-10
QB Wings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rob Hunter" <rwhunter(at)integra.net> |
I usually lurk, but you guys finally hit a chord.
I think having a way to disconnect the A/P and electric pitch trim is
very important. Back in the mid sixties my dad was killed in a electric
trim runaway incident in a Lockheed Learstar. The trim went to full
nose down on climb out and the airplane pitched down into the runway
killing all aboard. The circuit breakers were located under the pilot
seat. Imagine trying to get to them during a runaway trim event.
Years later I had a A/P runaway on a C-402. The autopilot disconnect
switches did not stop it. The circuit breaker had to be pulled.
Needles to say I have been able to pull any circuit breaker involving
pitch trim or A/P blindfolded.
The airplane I fly now has the hydraulic disconnect for the pitch trim
in a very convenient place easily accessible by either pilot.
Rob Hunter
Wings
40432
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:09 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Runaway trim
I have heard 2 stories of how the -10 was inadvertently trimmed nose-up
while the auto-pilot was engaged. The a-p held until it couldn't hold
anymore and then let go, putting the plane in an unusual attitude VERY
quickly. The first one had the original servo and the second was with a
high-torque servo, which was more dramatic. If the first pilot hadn't
mentioned his experience to the second pilot, he said he probably would
have wet his pants, if not more. I put just about everything on a
pullable breaker. Lights and fans and stuff like that, as Tim
mentioned, can be on fuses, but having everything on breakers so you can
shed load manually if you have an alternator failure, which DOES happen,
is a good idea. Breakers cost about $16 each for the good Klixon ones,
so 20 of them is going to cost just over $300, but probably less than
$300 more than you would spend on the alternative. Just being able to
shed loads when you are working on settings with the plane off is well
worth it, IMHO.
One thing to keep in mind, though, is that if the trim gets into a
situation like I mentioned above, pulling a breaker will NOT solve the
problem, but will rather make it worse, because with no power you will
not be able to get it back in trim. If your trim system goes bad, gets
a short, has a bad switch or something like that so it starts trimming
by itself, then you need to be able to get rid of the power. I also
know of a case where a trim relay board went bad in one direction, so
the plane was trimmed too far one way and they the pilot couldn't get it
back. The trip was only about 30 minutes, but he said his arm was
absolutely exhausted by the time he got there. The -10 has a LOT of
trim and is a big plane to pull against the trim on.
A word to the wise - when flying on a-p, disengage from time to time to
trim the plane, even if you have the trim-sensing servo (which is
fantastic, by the way) and especially if you have aileron and/or rudder
trim. Having the plane trimmed right when you disengage for whatever
reason, especially if it is on an IFR approach, is very important.
In short, you do want a way to kill the trim power quickly if you have
"runaway trim", but if you may have been pushing it accidentally, then
cutting the power will make the problem worse. My suggestion in any
case, cut the power and then assess the situation to see if it was you
or some plane problem.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 1:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Runaway trim
A few days ago a Citation jet carrying a crew of two and 4 medical
personnel including organ transplant doctors, went down in Lake Michigan
just off shore from Milwaukee, WI shortly after takeoff. The pilot
declared an emergency due to severe control problems and was cleared to
return to MKE. No survivors. First my condolences to the families and
friends. Next, preliminary reports are that the crash may have been due
to "Runaway trim." Our RV-10s have electric trim. Should we or has
anyone installed a trim power disconnect of some sort? I realize that
the forces to overcome full trim on the 10 are not as great as a
Citation, but would this be prudent? After Attending Bob Nuckolls
seminar and hearing his reasons for not installing circuit breakers
which I generally agree with, would this be a reason for a pullable
breaker on this circuit? What do you guys and gals think? Mr.
Nuckolls, how about your thoughts?
Dave Leikam
40496 RV-10
QB Wings
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
Would a circuit like this be useful? Any downside?
Bobby
40116
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Runaway trim |
I think it would add more confusion, because now you can
accidentally reverse the trim too. That's what the
trim switch goes up and down for, so it shouldn't be
needed. Chris's suggestion of 2 switches is a good
enough one for the worry-worts, but if you protect your
wires from chafing and you don't include any funky
microprocessor type stuff in the trim, there shouldn't
be an extreme amount of worry to be had. You still have
to be ready for the possibility, but the standard
system is very simple. As far as dual-switching goes,
you could just as easily add a panel switch to disable
trim so you have active:
pilot only
co-pilot + pilot
no trim
Then in cruise you could disable the trim once you're
set in cruise. But, the problem with this is, when
you NEED the trim, you may find you forgot to activate
it...not good. Now you're more at risk of inadvertently
losing the ability to trim. So I'm just for keeping it
very simple and sticking with the norm....or if someone
invented a dual stick switch, great.
Additionally, for trim speed devices, I'm not a fan of
microprocessor type systems. I think that 3-way airspeed
type switch option is best....fast, or slow, depending on
airspeed. At least then the worst that could happen is that
you have fast or slow trim when you don't want it. The
fast trim would be full 12V power, the slow would be nice
to have as a pulsed DC system. As long as it's just the
power feed coming in, you shouldn't have to worry about
anything actually throwing your trim suddenly out of whack.
Tim
Bobby J. Hughes wrote:
> Would a circuit like this be useful? Any downside?
>
> Bobby
> 40116
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
I've flown in at least two planes when the elevator trim switch was
sticking. One was on my old GlaStar with an Infinity grip, the other was on
a Ray Allen grip with the four buttons for u/d/l/r. In the case of the Ray
Allen grip, the button would get caught under the housing of the grip. They
replaced it free of charge.
There was a GlaStar fatality a few years ago that wasn't explained but
seemed to me like it might have been runaway trim. I tested how long it
would take and how dramatic it would be in my plane. It did take a long
time but once it started to accelerate nose down, the rate seemed to
increase exponentially. The RV-10 elevator trim, with the motor at full
speed, changes much faster than the GlaStar and more suddenly.
As a few have mentioned by the time you notice the problem, cutting power
probably won't help much. Recognizing the problem and recovering smoothly
is the solution. That's easy to say as I type here calmly, but hard to do
with the trees rushing up...
My 10 has a trim C/B switch next to the throttle, flap switch, and A/P
switch. I installed a speed reducer activated by having the flaps being
fully retracted. Another strategy I've seen is to use a momentary normally
open pinkie switch (MNOPS?) in the trim selector ground wire, so it takes
two commands to activate trim. It's a little clumsy but it would prevent
the "atlas on the trim swicth" scenario, or the case of a faulty main
switch, which is not unheard of.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com <http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
40394, wiring, just recieved AF3400EE...sweet!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vern W. Smith" <Vern(at)teclabsinc.com> |
I like it! If I don't have a lap full of stuff I don't feel like I'm
really flying:) If a Ray Allen G207 or G307 grip (or comparable) was
used. The PTT could be moved to one of the positions on the top of the
stick and the momentary switch under the index fingerer could then be
used as the "trim safety switch."
Those planning on using the Advance Flight Systems EFIS have the
additional notification of the trim indicator popping up on the efis
display when the trim activated. Just have to watch for it and recognize
the implications of it appearing in flight.
Vern (#324)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Runaway trim
About this trim stuff - I was reading some flying mag awhile back, and
there's some new airplane out there that has a momentary switch in the
pinky position that you must be holding to actuate the coolie hat for
trim. I was thinking seriously about copying that. The only downside I
can see is the loss of a switch position on the stick, and the very
slight added complexity inline in an important system (very slightly
increasing the possibility of failure - ie one more thing possible to
fail, but highly unlikely). What say you all? I think it'd become
automatic after a couple flights - hold the pinky button down, and
actuate the coolie hat for trim. Then you've done away with all the
accidental bumping, chart nudges and the like, and it also has the added
bonus of being sort of child-proof! Although I'd still go with Tim's
recommendation of having the trim function be switch-off-able on the
co-pilot side. What say you all?
cj
#40410
fuse/finishing/stuff
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Yea - I doubt that I'd use the "trigger" position for anything other
than PTT - I'd probably put the "trim safety switch" under the pinky or
somewhere else (in the case of an infinity grip).
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vern W. Smith
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Runaway trim
I like it! If I don't have a lap full of stuff I don't feel like I'm
really flying:) If a Ray Allen G207 or G307 grip (or comparable) was
used. The PTT could be moved to one of the positions on the top of the
stick and the momentary switch under the index fingerer could then be
used as the "trim safety switch."
Those planning on using the Advance Flight Systems EFIS have the
additional notification of the trim indicator popping up on the efis
display when the trim activated. Just have to watch for it and recognize
the implications of it appearing in flight.
Vern (#324)
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 8:56 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Runaway trim
About this trim stuff - I was reading some flying mag awhile back, and
there's some new airplane out there that has a momentary switch in the
pinky position that you must be holding to actuate the coolie hat for
trim. I was thinking seriously about copying that. The only downside I
can see is the loss of a switch position on the stick, and the very
slight added complexity inline in an important system (very slightly
increasing the possibility of failure - ie one more thing possible to
fail, but highly unlikely). What say you all? I think it'd become
automatic after a couple flights - hold the pinky button down, and
actuate the coolie hat for trim. Then you've done away with all the
accidental bumping, chart nudges and the like, and it also has the added
bonus of being sort of child-proof! Although I'd still go with Tim's
recommendation of having the trim function be switch-off-able on the
co-pilot side. What say you all?
cj
#40410
fuse/finishing/stuff
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Runaway trim |
Several times I've flown in the C 182 G1000 with pilots that try to over
power the AP once it's engaged...and I've had to throw the circuit breaker on the
AP as the automatic trim in motion got going--and in the 182 the auto trim
will run out before it stops when it's trying to correct the additional inputs
on
the AP. At least there is an audible command that tells you that the trim is
working against the inputs by the pilot. After resetting all was well, and
then you look over at the guy that supposed to be PIC and ask them what they
had in mind when they ham fisted the controls, setting off the automatic
trim...duh, was trying to make the plane turn faster than 1/2 standard rate...so
they
grabbed the horns and started yanking...it's not nice watching your nose
pitch up suddenly then fall below the horizon even faster as the auto trim is
rolling trying to correct the physical inputs.
There are three ways to disengage the trim and 7 ways to disengage the AP in
the new C 182's...I'd think that you'd want several disengage options in the
10 also...switches/fuse's/circuit breakers/bus panels...main and sub panels
depending upon your configuration. When the planes come out of the factory, they
have a castle knob on the AP circuit breaker which resides just in front to
left seat and it's located for a right handed pilot on the avionic's bus. If
you just reach out in the dark you can immediately feel that this breaker head
is different from all the others and can quickly pull it, if needed. Maybe
adding this cover on top of the circuit breakers maybe something to consider as
you install your set-ups.
Patrick
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Couple of other options. Aircraft Extras has a airspeed switch that can
be used to reduce trim speed at higher airspeeds thus reducing sensitivity.
You could also just use a switch to do the same thing. Another option wo
uld be to put the standard rocker switches on the panel for the co-pilot an
d a DPDT switch with an off position to select between them. In that case
you have the option of disabling one of them should it be a switch problem
and still have control.
F1-Rocketboy used to sell a trim control unit that would do things like d
isable the copilot controls if the pilot was running trim and I believe als
o watch for runaway trim. For some reason he doesn't have any reference to
his products on his site anymore. Not sure if he stopped selling it but s
ent him an email to find out.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Limbo
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 12:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Runaway trim
I've flown in at least two planes when the elevator trim switch was stickin
g. One was on my old GlaStar with an Infinity grip, the other was on a Ray
Allen grip with the four buttons for u/d/l/r. In the case of the Ray Alle
n grip, the button would get caught under the housing of the grip. They re
placed it free of charge.
There was a GlaStar fatality a few years ago that wasn't explained but seem
ed to me like it might have been runaway trim. I tested how long it would
take and how dramatic it would be in my plane. It did take a long time but
once it started to accelerate nose down, the rate seemed to increase expon
entially. The RV-10 elevator trim, with the motor at full speed, changes m
uch faster than the GlaStar and more suddenly.
As a few have mentioned by the time you notice the problem, cutting power p
robably won't help much. Recognizing the problem and recovering smoothly i
s the solution. That's easy to say as I type here calmly, but hard to do w
ith the trees rushing up...
My 10 has a trim C/B switch next to the throttle, flap switch, and A/P swit
ch. I installed a speed reducer activated by having the flaps being fully
retracted. Another strategy I've seen is to use a momentary normally open
pinkie switch (MNOPS?) in the trim selector ground wire, so it takes two co
mmands to activate trim. It's a little clumsy but it would prevent the "at
las on the trim swicth" scenario, or the case of a faulty main switch, whic
h is not unheard of.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com<http://www.aircraftersllc.com/>
40394, wiring, just recieved AF3400EE...sweet!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | WTB: Van's stock -10 instrument panel (F-1003A) |
Well....I started manually chopping up the stock panel and at this point
am not happy with the lack of precision :-( . Onto the CAD and jet
cutting. Any you folks out there with one of those snazzy after market
panels still have that F-1003A sitting on the shelf you would be willing
to part with at a fair price?
Contact me off list please...
rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net
Brian
#40308
Nashville, TN 37211
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce |
That would be me :). And yes, Aircraft Spruce has been very accommodating in resolving
the problem, which wasn't so much delays as it was items being seemingly
randomly dropped from multiple line orders that included back-ordered items.
Kudos to Jim Irwin on heading up a fine organization.
This was a bit of a diversion from a momentous event this week: after turning page
after page of Van's instructions for building an RV-10 for the past 22 months,
I turned the last page and there were no more pages. The construction on
this puppy is done! Now on to paint, with a nonzero chance this thing will actually
make it to the OSH homebuilt camping area this July!
-Dan Masys
#40448 N104LD
> From: "Aircraft Spruce" <info(at)aircraftspruce.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Beware PTI paint from Aircraft Spruce
>
> One of our longtime customers posted a complaint about a delay on an
> order for PTI paints from Aircraft Spruce, and we want to report that
> the situation has been resolved to our customer's satisfaction. There
> was some confusion on our part regarding a few of the PTI products that
> were backordered, but that has been corrected and all the PTI products
> are shipping directly from the factory to our customer. We have extended
> our apology to our customer and assured him that we value his business
> and look forward to continuing to serve him during the RV project.
>
> If anyone has a question or concern please do not hesitate to contact us
> and we will look into the matter immediately.
>
> Aircraft Spruce Customer Service
>
> custsvc(at)aircraftspruce.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
The pilot of VooDoo was Bob Hannah.
http://www.bobhannah.com/
Kevin
I remember at Reno a few years ago when VooDoo of the P-51's
was coming down right after the start and all of a sudden
pitched up hard and went almost straight up for a few
thousand feet, everyone thought he had a Mayday but he
actually lost his trim tab on the elevator. It actually
blacked him out and he woke up going straight up and was
pinned to floor. Once the plane slowed, he was able to
control it and landed with no issues. The next day he had a
for sale sign on it. The pilot was an ex-motorcycle racer,
can't remember his name right now.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB: Van's stock -10 instrument panel (F-1003A) |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
If no one offers anything, just order and 2' X 4' sheet of 0.63 aluminum from Aicraft
Spruce and trace the old panel on to it to create a new one.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> Well....I started manually chopping up the stock panel and at this point
> am not happy with the lack of precision :-( . Onto the CAD and jet
> cutting. Any you folks out there with one of those snazzy after market
> panels still have that F-1003A sitting on the shelf you would be willing
> to part with at a fair price?
>
> Contact me off list please...
>
> rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net
>
> Brian
> #40308
> Nashville, TN 37211
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Belue" <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Mixture arm problem |
I have a Bendix servo on my IO540-C4B5 engine that has a straight
mixture lever. It's not working out very well because the airbox
interferes with it - even with the cutout. Does anyone know where I can
get an offset mixture arm like most seem to have? The unit has these
numbers:
Model: RSA-5AD1
Serial: 49426
Parts List: 4524213-11
My straight mixture arm has this number on it: 25220U4
I'd appreciate any help with this!
Kevin Belue
RV-6A >700 hrs
RV-10 finish work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture arm problem |
Call Don Rivera @ Airflow Performance, I know they make offset levers
for their fuel controllers, He will be able to tell you if one of theirs
will fit the unit you've got.
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Mixture arm problem |
I was able to get one from aerosport power. Vans recommended them to me.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Belue
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 9:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Mixture arm problem
I have a Bendix servo on my IO540-C4B5 engine that has a straight mixture
lever. It's not working out very well because the airbox interferes with it
- even with the cutout. Does anyone know where I can get an offset mixture
arm like most seem to have? The unit has these numbers:
Model: RSA-5AD1
Serial: 49426
Parts List: 4524213-11
My straight mixture arm has this number on it: 25220U4
I'd appreciate any help with this!
Kevin Belue
RV-6A >700 hrs
RV-10 finish work
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ray Allen Aileron trim servo |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Quick question, what did you use to connect the Ray Allen aileron trim servo to
the cable which comes with the kit from Vans?
Since the cables are so thin crimping doesnt work (at least with the terminals
I have). Did you use a connector?
Please advise (pictures are welcome).
Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117234#117234
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rv10builder <rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: WTB: Van's stock -10 instrument panel (F-1003A) |
Thanks for the responses...a very generous fellow builder on this list
has offered me a panel for the cost of shipping (thank you!). What a
great group of folks this is! :-D
Brian
#40308
http://www.mykitlog.com/rv10builder
rv10builder wrote:
>
> Well....I started manually chopping up the stock panel and at this
> point am not happy with the lack of precision :-( . Onto the CAD and
> jet cutting. Any you folks out there with one of those snazzy after
> market panels still have that F-1003A sitting on the shelf you would
> be willing to part with at a fair price?
>
> Contact me off list please...
>
> rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net
>
> Brian
> #40308
> Nashville, TN 37211
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen Aileron trim servo |
I used a 6 pin Molex but doubled the wire over before crimping it. I used five
individual strands of 26AWG instead of the 5 pin cable as it was easier to run
the individual wires through my plastic conduit.....
Others have used RS232 connectors.
I'll try to find photos at home this weekend......
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
>Sent: Jun 8, 2007 2:06 AM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RV10-List: Ray Allen Aileron trim servo
>
>
>Quick question, what did you use to connect the Ray Allen aileron trim servo to
the cable which comes with the kit from Vans?
>Since the cables are so thin crimping doesnt work (at least with the terminals
I have). Did you use a connector?
>
>Please advise (pictures are welcome).
>
>Regards
>Michael
>
>www.wellenzohn.net
>
>--------
>RV-10 builder (wings)
>#511
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117234#117234
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Ray Allen Aileron trim servo |
Here is one way:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/macservo/macservo.html
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Wellenzohn
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Ray Allen Aileron trim servo
Quick question, what did you use to connect the Ray Allen aileron trim servo to
the cable which comes with the kit from Vans?
Since the cables are so thin crimping doesnt work (at least with the terminals
I have). Did you use a connector?
Please advise (pictures are welcome).
Regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117234#117234
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen Aileron trim servo |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I used a standard DB-9 connector without the external shell.
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/90Electrical/RV10Electrical_v3b.pdf
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> I used a 6 pin Molex but doubled the wire over before crimping it. I used five
individual strands of 26AWG instead of the 5 pin cable as it was easier to
run the individual wires through my plastic conduit.....
> Others have used RS232 connectors.
>
> I'll try to find photos at home this weekend......
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Michael Wellenzohn <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
> >Sent: Jun 8, 2007 2:06 AM
> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: RV10-List: Ray Allen Aileron trim servo
> >
> >
> >Quick question, what did you use to connect the Ray Allen aileron trim servo
to the cable which comes with the kit from Vans?
> >Since the cables are so thin crimping doesnt work (at least with the terminals
I have). Did you use a connector?
> >
> >Please advise (pictures are welcome).
> >
> >Regards
> >Michael
> >
> >www.wellenzohn.net
> >
> >--------
> >RV-10 builder (wings)
> >#511
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Read this topic online here:
> >
> >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117234#117234
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Ray Allen Trim servo |
Michael;
Make sure you add "electrical components held together by Shoe Goo"
under the large "Experimental" on the doors. :-)
Seems like a good way to make a small connector for the servos.
Dr Fred.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Van's Instrument Panel |
| From: | <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
I ordered an extra instrument panel from Van's and it was pretty cheap.
Less than $40, I think. Already nicely cut and drilled.
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Runaway trim |
In a message dated 6/8/2007 9:21:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jesse(at)saintaviation.com writes:
When flying,
especially when on the Sorcerer or other combination systems where you can
use the a/p to fly you to your target altitude, you need to be able to trim
as the a/p tells you to.
Jesse...you mean to tell me that you've got to hand trim the controls when
using the Sorcerer? Even an ol' KAP 140 does all the trimming if you touch the
trim either manually or electric trim...the AP should disengage
automatically...
P
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I have selected an all electric, (no round gauges) panel with a Dynon
100 as a backup. It looks to me to be about as nice a panel as I could
have dreamed.
My questions is am I REQUIRED to have a wet compass?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
In response to your post and Ed's, TruTrak offers an automatic pitch trim
option, but it is not standard. The a/p give you a little indicator on the
screen to trim up or town when it is having to hold pressure in a certain
direction. You DO have to trim for the a/p. It will hold it up to a
certain point, but it is recommended by TruTrak that you trim to take the
load off the system, probably to reduce stress and possibly wear on the
servos. Trimming does not disengage the a/p and should not, with this
feature, as it would completely render the feature useless. As I think I
mentioned, you can engage the a/p just after rotation and don't have to
disengage until almost time to flare, so there is a great need to trimming
in between those times. The Sorcerer will fly to a target altitude, either
using the "Sel" for climb of "Vnav" for descent. It will fly you to your
desired altitude and then level you off. It will climb on IAS or VS and
will descend over a set distance or via VS. I don't know about other a/p's,
but TruTrak is leading the experimental market and their people are from the
certified world, so they know what they are doing, IMHO, regarding trim.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Runaway trim
Jesse...you mean to tell me that you've got to hand trim the controls when
using the Sorcerer? Even an ol' KAP 140 does all the trimming if you touch
the trim either manually or electric trim...the AP should disengage
automatically...
P
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Guys,
For those of you who did not get to the RV10 doors yet, you need to see this
video. Even those of you who have completed your RV10 and are flying around
and are not happy with the way your doors close, you too need to see this.
My brother Jim designed them and my Nephew Dave is producing them. Either make
them yourself, or get them from Dave, but put them in your Ten if you want
to enhance the closing/locking of your RV10 doors.
I first saw the problem with the rear door rod not engaging at Oshkosh last year.
I watched again and again as people got in Van's demonstrator and couldn't
engage the rear door rod without a conscientious effort. I initially made
my door rods as per Vans plan. The door did not "rack" properly when closed and
was even worse when the door was latched.
I know of several other RV10's with this safety problem. The door guides are
just one possible solution. Take a look at this video and see for yourself.
Just remember that the rubber channel is not yet installed. I will not use Vans
supplied rubber channel on my plane. I'm hunting around for something better
that is softer.
The Door Guides are CNC milled and are tapped from the back side so no screw
heads are visible. The screw pattern is the same as Vans. If fact, if you haven't
reached the stage of building your "plastic" door guides that Vans supplies
in the kit, you won't have to drill that big hole through your vertical intercostal
because the door pins don't go that far.
The Door Pins are Stainless Steel, made on a CNC lathe, and have a magnet inserted
in them so you can use Vans magnet switch for the door open warning system.
They screw right into Vans door rods (same threads). You just have to cut
the rods to the length you want.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIDyecpfc30
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117311#117311
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Even though you primary EFIS with magnetometer or backup Dynon may meet the requirement
of a "Magnetic Direction indicator" in FAR 91.205 b(3), why not put one
in for when the crap hits the fan. I've seen Dynon's "lose their minds."
Look to the certified airframe manufactures, even the G1000/Avidyne equipped airplanes
include the basic "round gauge" backups. They are cheap, they are proven.
This is just my personal opinion but the idea of backing up one piece of
experimental avionics with another would make me uncomfortable with anything
but VFR flight.
The SIRs Navigator compass is especially nice: http://www.sirsproducts.com/page3.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> I have selected an all electric, (no round gauges) panel with a Dynon
> 100 as a backup. It looks to me to be about as nice a panel as I could
> have dreamed.
> My questions is am I REQUIRED to have a wet compass?
>
> Robin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Zack,
Very slick. What is the cost?
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117320#117320
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Full Throttle Concepts has done a remarkable video. Take the time to
click on the final link below, the conclusion sells the Rivet Head
product even if you don't conclude the factory doors need immediate
improvement. Class Act!
John Cox -600
On Jun 8, 2007, at 1:09 PM, zackrv8 wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> For those of you who did not get to the RV10 doors yet, you need
> to see this video. Even those of you who have completed your RV10
> and are flying around and are not happy with the way your doors
> close, you too need to see this.
>
> My brother Jim designed them and my Nephew Dave is producing
> them. Either make them yourself, or get them from Dave, but put
> them in your Ten if you want to enhance the closing/locking of your
> RV10 doors.
>
> I first saw the problem with the rear door rod not engaging at
> Oshkosh last year. I watched again and again as people got in
> Van's demonstrator and couldn't engage the rear door rod without a
> conscientious effort. I initially made my door rods as per Vans
> plan. The door did not "rack" properly when closed and was even
> worse when the door was latched.
>
> I know of several other RV10's with this safety problem. The
> door guides are just one possible solution. Take a look at this
> video and see for yourself. Just remember that the rubber channel
> is not yet installed. I will not use Vans supplied rubber channel
> on my plane. I'm hunting around for something better that is softer.
>
> The Door Guides are CNC milled and are tapped from the back side
> so no screw heads are visible. The screw pattern is the same as
> Vans. If fact, if you haven't reached the stage of building your
> "plastic" door guides that Vans supplies in the kit, you won't have
> to drill that big hole through your vertical intercostal because
> the door pins don't go that far.
>
> The Door Pins are Stainless Steel, made on a CNC lathe, and have
> a magnet inserted in them so you can use Vans magnet switch for the
> door open warning system. They screw right into Vans door rods
> (same threads). You just have to cut the rods to the length you want.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIDyecpfc30
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117311#117311
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Lenhardt" <av8or(at)cox.net> |
Doesn't have to be a "wet" compass; only a magnetic one and for the
money of the one mentioned below you can also put in a vertical compass
card to make it easier to read because it's more like a DG you're use
to, plus it's dampened.
http://www.pai700.com/index.html
http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/vertcard_compass1.php
http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/importvc_compass.php
http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/sirs_compass2.php
John Lenhardt
#40262
Roanoke, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: William Curtis
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:24 PM
Subject: re: RV10-List: Wet Compass
Even though you primary EFIS with magnetometer or backup Dynon may
meet the requirement of a "Magnetic Direction indicator" in FAR 91.205
b(3), why not put one in for when the crap hits the fan. I've seen
Dynon's "lose their minds." Look to the certified airframe
manufactures, even the G1000/Avidyne equipped airplanes include the
basic "round gauge" backups. They are cheap, they are proven. This is
just my personal opinion but the idea of backing up one piece of
experimental avionics with another would make me uncomfortable with
anything but VFR flight.
The SIRs Navigator compass is especially nice:
http://www.sirsproducts.com/page3.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> I have selected an all electric, (no round gauges) panel with a
Dynon
> 100 as a backup. It looks to me to be about as nice a panel as I
could
> have dreamed.
> My questions is am I REQUIRED to have a wet compass?
>
> Robin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "Tom Deutsch" <deutscht(at)rhwhotels.com> |
Does anyone other than me have a concern about the strength of the joint
where the "bullet" screws into the aluminum tube?
Tom Deutsch
#40545 75 hrs flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 Doors Video
Full Throttle Concepts has done a remarkable video. Take the time to
click on the final link below, the conclusion sells the Rivet Head
product even if you don't conclude the factory doors need immediate
improvement. Class Act!
John Cox -600
On Jun 8, 2007, at 1:09 PM, zackrv8 wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> For those of you who did not get to the RV10 doors yet, you need
> to see this video. Even those of you who have completed your RV10
> and are flying around and are not happy with the way your doors
> close, you too need to see this.
>
> My brother Jim designed them and my Nephew Dave is producing
> them. Either make them yourself, or get them from Dave, but put
> them in your Ten if you want to enhance the closing/locking of your
> RV10 doors.
>
> I first saw the problem with the rear door rod not engaging at
> Oshkosh last year. I watched again and again as people got in
> Van's demonstrator and couldn't engage the rear door rod without a
> conscientious effort. I initially made my door rods as per Vans
> plan. The door did not "rack" properly when closed and was even
> worse when the door was latched.
>
> I know of several other RV10's with this safety problem. The
> door guides are just one possible solution. Take a look at this
> video and see for yourself. Just remember that the rubber channel
> is not yet installed. I will not use Vans supplied rubber channel
> on my plane. I'm hunting around for something better that is softer.
>
> The Door Guides are CNC milled and are tapped from the back side
> so no screw heads are visible. The screw pattern is the same as
> Vans. If fact, if you haven't reached the stage of building your
> "plastic" door guides that Vans supplies in the kit, you won't have
> to drill that big hole through your vertical intercostal because
> the door pins don't go that far.
>
> The Door Pins are Stainless Steel, made on a CNC lathe, and have
> a magnet inserted in them so you can use Vans magnet switch for the
> door open warning system. They screw right into Vans door rods
> (same threads). You just have to cut the rods to the length you want.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIDyecpfc30
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117311#117311
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
OK I need to make arrangements for OSH and would like to time my stay
(aprox 3 days) to coincide with as many of you as possible. Right now
I'm thinking about Tues 7/24, Wed, and Thurs 7/26. What's everybody
elses plans?
Tim is it time to re open the OSH attendance list on your site?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff. (I swear the fiberglass stuff never ends!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
I won't be offering apologies on the public RV-10 list but the Private
(John Jessen) made Public post was to respond to a deep concern Rick
Sked had about the direction of the list. To you however... I apologize
for the wasted band-width.
I am off Thursday through Sunday, then vacation Sunday night through
Thursday, then off again Friday and Saturday July 19 through the 29th.
My plan is to fly Tana to Chicago for the weekend of Thur/Fri/Sat - July
19,20 and 21. I want to attend the Mike Sausen Barbeque on Sunday the
22nd. I don't know if Tana will attend. Then I am hitting OSH on
Mon/Tues/Wed/Thursday - July 23,24,25 and 26 with a flight home from ORD
on Friday.
Have not yet heard from Cascade Warbirds on the OSH house. I will
contact the owner direct to confirm availability. It is usually $250
for the entire week from Monday through the following Sunday. I always
split by Friday because when using Standby, I might never get home once
the pilgrimage ends. I will have a rental car with a large ice-cooler
in the trunk for snacks and beverages.
Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday are for sure. I have not yet paid Bob
Collins for the RV Barbeque on Wednesday or the VANS on Thursday.
Everything is up in the air.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 11:35 AM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH dates ?
OK I need to make arrangements for OSH and would like to time my stay
(aprox 3 days) to coincide with as many of you as possible. Right now
I'm thinking about Tues 7/24, Wed, and Thurs 7/26. What's everybody
elses plans?
Tim is it time to re open the OSH attendance list on your site?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff. (I swear the fiberglass stuff never
ends!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I'll be there a few days prior to show start and depart Sunday 7/29 AM.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH dates ?
OK I need to make arrangements for OSH and would like to time my stay
(aprox 3 days) to coincide with as many of you as possible. Right now
I'm thinking about Tues 7/24, Wed, and Thurs 7/26. What's everybody
elses plans?
Tim is it time to re open the OSH attendance list on your site?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff. (I swear the fiberglass stuff never
ends!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
Tom,
The "Bullet" or "Door Pin" screws in Vans existing rod with at least an inch
of threads. Once the final length is cut from Vans rod and the Bullet tips do
not extend pass the door edge, you then Lock-Tite them in. The "Pins" are loaded
in shear, not tension. Your fiberglass door will break before then door
pins break off the rod.
Zack
deutscht(at)rhwhotels.com wrote:
> Does anyone other than me have a concern about the strength of the joint
> where the "bullet" screws into the aluminum tube?
>
> Tom Deutsch
> #40545 75 hrs flying
> --
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117344#117344
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
I really don't know the cost. Call Dave at 302-437-6087. He can help you with
that.
Joe
quote="jim berry"]Zack,
Very slick. What is the cost?
Jim Berry
40482[/quote]
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117350#117350
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10(at)jline.com> |
http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/RV
http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/RV10
The above links are to the RV and RV10 Wiki pages on the Matronics
servers. I know Matt Dralle sent an email a while back indicating these
Wiki pages were setup. I only now got around to looking into it. To my
surprise, I found the RV10 pages empty. I hope we can all utilize this
resource more.To this end, I went ahead and updated the RV10 pages with
a first-pass. The beauty of the Wiki system is that anyone can
immediately update and edit content and publish to everyone else in a
collaborative way. (That's the idea, anyway. I just hope spammers do not
get wind of it.)
My main motivation for looking into it, was I knew a Wiki platform would
be a better means of providing useful meaniningful information for
builders. I am fed up with working on some section of the plans, then
while browsing the forums, discovering after-the-fact, that I should
have done something differently. The forums contain a lot of useful
information, but it is not conducive to following along as one is
building to the plans. The forum strength is for real-time discussion on
topics. Its major weakness is that is serves as a poor reference for
followup after the discussion has died. The main matronics wiki page
explains the same thing:
http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page. It is using the same
MediaWiki platform that the well-known http://www.wikipedai.org uses.
I encourage everyone to take a look and add their 2 cents. I still
needed to register a username and password, even though I am subscribed
to the lists. They are independent systems. I am working on the
Fuselage, so I added an "Airframe Gotchas" section, that includes the
Fuselage chapters for now.
Jae
40533
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
One of the things that worries me about a runaway trim, is a statement
to the Australian Transport Safety Bureau regarding a near accident in
an EMB110 just over a year ago.
The Pilot in command (he had a co-pilot as well) said he couldn't let go
of the control column in order to pull the CB. The co-pilot was thus
engaged as well.
http://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/investigation_reports/2005/aair/pdf/a
air200504340_001.pdf
What are the forces required to overcome full nose down or up trim in an
RV-10?
Has anyone tried this?
What is the safest place for the CB placement?
How to reset neutral trim?
It might have just been habit and a hang over from my early training
days, but I was always more comfortable with a trim wheel. Is anyone
doing this?
John 40315 (Finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kdbelue(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture arm problem |
Aircraft Accessories in Oklahoma is sending me an offset mixture arm. Thanks for
all of the replies!
Kevin
---- Kevin Belue wrote:
> I have a Bendix servo on my IO540-C4B5 engine that has a straight mixture lever.
It's not working out very well because the airbox interferes with it - even
with the cutout. Does anyone know where I can get an offset mixture arm like
most seem to have? The unit has these numbers:
>
> Model: RSA-5AD1
> Serial: 49426
> Parts List: 4524213-11
>
> My straight mixture arm has this number on it: 25220U4
>
> I'd appreciate any help with this!
>
> Kevin Belue
> RV-6A >700 hrs
> RV-10 finish work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Need some information CHT probs |
I'm wanting to install the CHT probes, but I can't find any information
as to what to torque them to. (oddly enough I found the info for
torquing the stainless steel bands that hold the EGT probs (45 in lbs).
Also do they get any sealant applied to the threads (anti-seize?)
Anybody got any insight here?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need some information CHT probs |
I put anti-seize on my CHT probes. I'm sure they'll need to be replaced
someday and I wanted them to come back out. I don't remember if I had a spec for
tightening those. I'll check next time I'm at the hangar if someone doesn't
come up with the answer first.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/8/2007 6:14:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis(at)cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
I'm wanting to install the CHT probes, but I can't find any information
as to what to torque them to. (oddly enough I found the info for
torquing the stainless steel bands that hold the EGT probs (45 in lbs).
Also do they get any sealant applied to the threads (anti-seize?)
Anybody got any insight here?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need some information CHT probs |
I put anti-seize on my CHT probes. I'm sure they'll need to be replaced
someday and I wanted them to come back out. I don't remember if I had a spec for
tightening those. I'll check next time I'm at the hangar if someone doesn't
come up with the answer first.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/8/2007 6:14:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis(at)cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
I'm wanting to install the CHT probes, but I can't find any information
as to what to torque them to. (oddly enough I found the info for
torquing the stainless steel bands that hold the EGT probs (45 in lbs).
Also do they get any sealant applied to the threads (anti-seize?)
Anybody got any insight here?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: off list communications |
I quit responding to and asking questions when Rcik Sked made fun of my
speling :-*
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
John,
Your the first person who has questioned the need to reset neutral trim.
The DPDT switch circuit I posted a few days ago will be my method to
address this. Actually I will be using a 4PDT switch to include the roll
trim. A friend of mine and very experienced pilot \ builder had a
runaway trim event a few years ago. He said it was a real challenge to
keep the plane in the air and land. The reversible \ cut-off switch is
his solution and after a little investigation I think it is a better
solution than a breaker. What really sold me was a recent report of a
runaway trim event on the Lancair list. I think it was on one of the
first few test flights. Pilot and plane got down ok but apparently it
took a lot of strength to keep it in the air.
Disclaimer... This is my first experimental aircraft. I am a low time
pilot.... I do not hold a repairman's certificate.....slept at a Holiday
Inn once this year. Oh yes.. I am installing an automobile engine.
Bobby
40116R
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 2:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Runaway Trim
One of the things that worries me about a runaway trim, is a statement
to the Australian Transport Safety Bureau regarding a near accident in
an EMB110 just over a year ago.
The Pilot in command (he had a co-pilot as well) said he couldn't let go
of the control column in order to pull the CB. The co-pilot was thus
engaged as well.
http://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/investigation_reports/2005/aair/pdf/
aair200504340_001.pdf
What are the forces required to overcome full nose down or up trim in an
RV-10?
Has anyone tried this?
What is the safest place for the CB placement?
How to reset neutral trim?
It might have just been habit and a hang over from my early training
days, but I was always more comfortable with a trim wheel. Is anyone
doing this?
John 40315 (Finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Need some information CHT probs |
Torque is not critical. Antisieze is very helpful.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 5:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Need some information CHT probs
I'm wanting to install the CHT probes, but I can't find any information
as to what to torque them to. (oddly enough I found the info for
torquing the stainless steel bands that hold the EGT probs (45 in lbs).
Also do they get any sealant applied to the threads (anti-seize?)
Anybody got any insight here?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Zack,
I was actually on the site yesterday looking for this product.
The video is fantastic, the website is... well if I can say anything
nice I won't say anything at all.
The site does not seem to display the door product or pricing.
Can you inform the list as to the pricing and what is & is not included.
Thanks,
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of zackrv8
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 12:37 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10 Doors Video
Thing nice
Tom,
The "Bullet" or "Door Pin" screws in Vans existing rod with at least
an inch of threads. Once the final length is cut from Vans rod and the
Bullet tips do not extend pass the door edge, you then Lock-Tite them
in. The "Pins" are loaded in shear, not tension. Your fiberglass door
will break before then door pins break off the rod.
Zack
deutscht(at)rhwhotels.com wrote:
> Does anyone other than me have a concern about the strength of the
joint
> where the "bullet" screws into the aluminum tube?
>
> Tom Deutsch
> #40545 75 hrs flying
> --
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117344#117344
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Runaway trim |
| From: | "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com> |
[quote="Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.co"] As a few have mentioned by the time you notice
the problem, cutting power probably won't help much. Recognizing the problem
and recovering smoothly is the solution.
> [b]
Dave, I agree. You need to stop the trim, and probably by the time you stop it,
you are well out of trim. The Vertical Power system shows on the pilot display
when either trim or flaps is running, and will have audio tones as well. There
are no mechanical relays - each flap and trim control circuit uses two solid
state switches in series, so that if one fails you don't have a runaway condition.
We also stop the motor if opposite trim or flap is commanded - so if the
down trim wire shorts for example, you press the up trim button and the motor
stops. Hold this for 3 seconds and the trim switch is disconnected. You can
then run the trim & flaps from the display (using the soft keys) as a backup and
hopefully get the trim back to neutral.
Runaway trim is a very bad condition, and we really wanted to design a system that
makes electric trim safe yet easy to wire. Come by and take a look at OSH.
--------
Marc Ausman
http://www.verticalpower.com
RV-7 IO-390 Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117395#117395
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim C" <tlc2(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Builder Shop Tip |
Woodworking Tip: Note CaddyGetting on in age, returning to the Shop
without one of the things you went out for?
The ANSWER>>>>>> Tim C Cold Lk.
a.. Table Saw
Note Caddy
I like to keep a pencil and paper close at hand for writing quick
notes or hardware needs around the shop. The problem is not always being
able to find the paper and pencil. So I built a small caddy to help me
record and keep track of these notes when I'm working in the shop.
It uses a roll of adding machine paper and contains a paper cutter
and pencil holder for convenience.
The roll of adding machine paper spins on a piece of dowel cut to
fit a slot in the plywood body. You'll want to size the body according
to the width of the paper roll you use.
I made the note caddy out of scrap =BD? plywood. First I cut the
parts to size (see the drawing). Then I took a piece of =BE? plywood and
made three dadoes to form the pencil holder on one side.
A bevel cut across the back piece allows you to hang the note
caddy on a cleat mounted to the wall (see photo at left). It can also be
quickly removed from the cleat when needed.
I added a piece of hardboard to the front for a smooth writing
surface. A piece of hacksaw blade makes a handy way to cut the paper.
And a length of wire on the top holds the paper down and keeps it always
ready for use.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builder Shop Tip |
Very cool. with my current woodworking skills I could have my cabin top sanded
to fit the fuse in the time it'd take me to build one!
Rob Wright
#392
Canopy, buildus interruptus
----- Original Message ----
From: Tim C <tlc2(at)telus.net>
Sent: Friday, June 8, 2007 8:55:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Builder Shop Tip
Getting on in age, returning to the Shop without one of the things you went out
for?
The ANSWER>>>>>> Tim C Cold Lk.
Table Saw
Note Caddy
I like to keep a pencil and paper close at hand for writing quick notes or hardware
needs around the shop. The problem is not always being able to find the
paper and pencil. So I built a small caddy to help me record and keep track of
these notes when I$BCN(B working in the shop.
It uses a roll of adding machine paper and contains a paper cutter and pencil holder
for convenience.
The roll of adding machine paper spins on a piece of dowel cut to fit a slot in
the plywood body. You$BCM(Bl want to size the body according to the width of
the paper roll you use.
I made the note caddy out of scrap $B%9!m(B plywood. First I cut the parts to size
(see the drawing). Then I took a piece of $B%;!m(B plywood and made three
dadoes to form the pencil holder on one side.
A bevel cut across the back piece allows you to hang the note caddy on a cleat
mounted to the wall (see photo at left). It can also be quickly removed from
the cleat when needed.
I added a piece of hardboard to the front for a smooth writing surface. A piece
of hacksaw blade makes a handy way to cut the paper. And a length of wire on
the top holds the paper down and keeps it always ready for use.
__._,_.___
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am migrating to the RV10 from a Cessna 182. I have owned two previous planes,
and installed in both the PAI vertical card compass and plan to do so in this
plane also. It is a superbly reliable and simple instrument - cost $300. I would
not fly without it. I had a total electrical failure in my 182 over the desert
of Nevada (CAVU conditions). My 182 had a vacuum system gyro and DG.
I can assure you that it would be a lot easier to just fly the reciprocal of your
course after a TEF in the RV10 with a PAI. I would not own an airplane without
one. Just for kicks try flying away from a strange airport for 15-20 mikes
then try to get back to that airport with a Wal_Mart compass.... gooood luck
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117440#117440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Just finalized our plans last night. Judy and I will fly out Sun am 7/22
and meet Rick Sked @ ORD, pickup a rental car and then drive up to Mike
Sausen's BBQ. We're all staying at a home that Patrick and I stayed at
last year on the lake about 10 mins from OSH. Well be there thru 7/25 w/
an 8pm flight back to PHX from ORD.
Deems
Judy want to know if Tana is going to stay for some of OSH (She's hoping
so! as 3 day's of shadowing me talking airplanes will be a stretch for her)
John W. Cox wrote:
>
> I won't be offering apologies on the public RV-10 list but the Private
> (John Jessen) made Public post was to respond to a deep concern Rick
> Sked had about the direction of the list. To you however... I apologize
> for the wasted band-width.
>
> I am off Thursday through Sunday, then vacation Sunday night through
> Thursday, then off again Friday and Saturday July 19 through the 29th.
> My plan is to fly Tana to Chicago for the weekend of Thur/Fri/Sat - July
> 19,20 and 21. I want to attend the Mike Sausen Barbeque on Sunday the
> 22nd. I don't know if Tana will attend. Then I am hitting OSH on
> Mon/Tues/Wed/Thursday - July 23,24,25 and 26 with a flight home from ORD
> on Friday.
>
> Have not yet heard from Cascade Warbirds on the OSH house. I will
> contact the owner direct to confirm availability. It is usually $250
> for the entire week from Monday through the following Sunday. I always
> split by Friday because when using Standby, I might never get home once
> the pilgrimage ends. I will have a rental car with a large ice-cooler
> in the trunk for snacks and beverages.
>
> Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday are for sure. I have not yet paid Bob
> Collins for the RV Barbeque on Wednesday or the VANS on Thursday.
> Everything is up in the air.
>
> John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
I also had a PAI vertical card compass in my C182 and occasionally even looked
at it :-). The total electrical failure scenario has a much more elegant and
useful antidote these days than a whiskey compass, and that is a Garmin 396/496,
which automatically switches over to its internal battery (thereby immediately
alerting you that you have an electrical system failure), while giving you
a full navigation and situational awareness display (including weather if you
have that setup), and if needed a little GPS derived six pack of instruments
to replace the ones that are now spinning down due to no juice. This is why my
RV-10 panel has a panel mounted GPS396 immediately next to the dual GRT EFIS
displays. A wonderful little save-your-bacon backup.
-Dan Masys
RV-10 N104LD - registration just received from the FAA yesterday!
RV-7A N747DL
---- AirMike wrote:
>
> I am migrating to the RV10 from a Cessna 182. I have owned two previous planes,
and installed in both the PAI vertical card compass and plan to do so in this
plane also. It is a superbly reliable and simple instrument - cost $300. I
would not fly without it. I had a total electrical failure in my 182 over the
desert of Nevada (CAVU conditions). My 182 had a vacuum system gyro and DG.
>
> I can assure you that it would be a lot easier to just fly the reciprocal of
your course after a TEF in the RV10 with a PAI. I would not own an airplane without
one. Just for kicks try flying away from a strange airport for 15-20 mikes
then try to get back to that airport with a Wal_Mart compass.... gooood luck
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117440#117440
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Sounds like there will be quite a crowd this year! Don't worry about this being
the first visit, a friend of mine will also be attending for the first time.
If all goes well he'll be a freshly minted private pilot. Jay, Sean and I have
all been talking to him and he's also very close to officially joining the
builder's club!
Bob #40105
Finishing: the closer I get the longer my "to do" list gets...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117476#117476
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dan, congratulations on the FAA registration.
That was sort of my question, if I have a full glass primary set up (G900X PFD/MFD)
with a dual battery system AND a Dynon 100 tied into my dual battery system
PLUS the Dynon internal battery = 3 batteries. (belt, suspenders and another
belt) Do I need a wet compass?
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | WTB: Van's stock -10 instrument panel (F-1003A) |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Bryan
Give me a call and we can work something out, as I used Steins panel and
have the stock one left over.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
724-988-9230
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv10builder
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 6:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: WTB: Van's stock -10 instrument panel (F-1003A)
Well....I started manually chopping up the stock panel and at this point
am not happy with the lack of precision :-( . Onto the CAD and jet
cutting. Any you folks out there with one of those snazzy after market
panels still have that F-1003A sitting on the shelf you would be willing
to part with at a fair price?
Contact me off list please...
rv10builder(at)bellsouth.net
Brian
#40308
Nashville, TN 37211
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
William
One thing to realize is that the glass in the new airplanes are not the
primary instruments, rather the old round gauges are the primary and the
glass instruments are the secondary. Counter intuitive I know, but still
is.
Dan
N289DT RV10E E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:24 PM
Subject: re: RV10-List: Wet Compass
Even though you primary EFIS with magnetometer or backup Dynon may meet
the requirement of a "Magnetic Direction indicator" in FAR 91.205 b(3),
why not put one in for when the crap hits the fan. I've seen Dynon's
"lose their minds." Look to the certified airframe manufactures, even
the G1000/Avidyne equipped airplanes include the basic "round gauge"
backups. They are cheap, they are proven. This is just my personal
opinion but the idea of backing up one piece of experimental avionics
with another would make me uncomfortable with anything but VFR flight.
The SIRs Navigator compass is especially nice:
http://www.sirsproducts.com/page3.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> I have selected an all electric, (no round gauges) panel with a Dynon
> 100 as a backup. It looks to me to be about as nice a panel as I could
> have dreamed.
> My questions is am I REQUIRED to have a wet compass?
>
> Robin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I am there Friday before the show. Through Monday after the show. Hope
to see everyone there.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 2:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH dates ?
OK I need to make arrangements for OSH and would like to time my stay
(aprox 3 days) to coincide with as many of you as possible. Right now
I'm thinking about Tues 7/24, Wed, and Thurs 7/26. What's everybody
elses plans?
Tim is it time to re open the OSH attendance list on your site?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff. (I swear the fiberglass stuff never
ends!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim C" <tlc2(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | A Embarrising ELT Story |
Passing this story along.....> Tim Cold Lk.
Have an "Most Embarrassing" story to tell ya all>
This morning Sat Jun 09....I noticed a red/white/ and blue airplane
buzzing my house, about two hours later I had a knock at my front
door.....It was the CAP with hand held receiver pointing at me....They
asked if I had an ELT in my possession...and I said yes I do.
I had pulled it from 299V about three months ago along with the Nav/Com
power supply and UHF Glideslope receiver. seems as the switch had
gotten flipped to the ON position yesterday when I was putting them away
with other parts removed. It was over 20 years old, in my house and
antenna not deployed....and dagum if the battery was still good. It was
a Narco Airtex model 00-10-006 with the magnesium battery...
I would have thought it would have been long gone dead...Replacement
date May 88 about the time aircraft had it's last flight...WRONG !
...Nice bunch of Civil Air Patrol young folks, I was so embarrassed
about the incident, but they thanked me for the exercise, they had
driven here from about 30 miles as well. So the moral to the story is
-------Treat them like a loaded gun....No matter how old they may
be......Like the Thorp....will give the "Bunny" a run for the
money....Too bad they can not make all batteries that good....But I know
these things do not come cheap. Just thought I'd share this with ya.
Tom A
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
I also shared your concern so added a switch to disconnect power to the trim
if required. It's all by itself just above the throttle and I can hit it
pretty quick if required. As to how much force would it take to handle
would depend entirely on how fast you are. I've found the trim rate ideal
for slow speed but pretty sensitive if you are at cruise. My plan is to hit
the switch and slow down as required if it happens. I have not discovered a
means to recenter the trim if it starts to runway.
Marcus
40286
Just passed 150 hours
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Dunne
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 3:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Runaway Trim
One of the things that worries me about a runaway trim, is a statement to
the Australian Transport Safety Bureau regarding a near accident in an
EMB110 just over a year ago.
The Pilot in command (he had a co-pilot as well) said he couldn't let go of
the control column in order to pull the CB. The co-pilot was thus engaged as
well.
http://www.atsb.gov.au/publications/investigation_reports/2005/aair/pdf/aair
200504340_001.pdf
What are the forces required to overcome full nose down or up trim in an
RV-10?
Has anyone tried this?
What is the safest place for the CB placement?
How to reset neutral trim?
It might have just been habit and a hang over from my early training days,
but I was always more comfortable with a trim wheel. Is anyone doing this?
John 40315 (Finishing)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
We'll be arriving 25 Jul and departing Friday morning. Plan on parking in
the camping area.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH dates ?
OK I need to make arrangements for OSH and would like to time my stay
(aprox 3 days) to coincide with as many of you as possible. Right now
I'm thinking about Tues 7/24, Wed, and Thurs 7/26. What's everybody
elses plans?
Tim is it time to re open the OSH attendance list on your site?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff. (I swear the fiberglass stuff never ends!)
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Doors Video |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
robin1(at)mrmoisture.com wrote:
> Zack,
> I was actually on the site yesterday looking for this product.
> The video is fantastic, the website is... well if I can say anything
> nice I won't say anything at all.
> The site does not seem to display the door product or pricing.
> Can you inform the list as to the pricing and what is & is not included.
>
> Thanks,
> Robin
>
> --
Robin,
Dave informed me the price will be $86 for the set. The set includes 4 door
guides (you probably will have to trim the thickness because every door is different)
and 4 door pins. The pins have the same thread pattern as the threads
you already made in Van's existing door rod. They screw right in. You have
to cut the rod to length so as to not let the door pins extend past the door edge.
Then, screw and Lock-Tite them in. There is a magnet imbedded in the door
pin so you will still be able to use Van's existing door warning switch.
Zack
(Yeah, I know his website needs work, I told him about it!)
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117536#117536
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need some information CHT probs |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Deems, Loctite has a Nickel based anti-seize which is good to 2400F
(which is what we use on the turbine sections). That will cover the
1400F that is encountered on the recip - exhaust tubes. I will grab you
a 1/4 oz. sample to try along with those white (non staining) Adels.
John Forsling can advise best on the torque value to install the EGT
probes into his ceramic coated tubes.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 3:10 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Need some information CHT probs
I'm wanting to install the CHT probes, but I can't find any information
as to what to torque them to. (oddly enough I found the info for
torquing the stainless steel bands that hold the EGT probs (45 in lbs).
Also do they get any sealant applied to the threads (anti-seize?)
Anybody got any insight here?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
Hi Robin,
FAR 91.205 says aircraft with standard airworthiness certificates need to have
a "magnetic direction indicator" for both VFR and IFR flight. Although one might
argue 91.205 doesn't apply to experimental aircraft, the simple fact is that
you will be at the mercy of the DAR who does your final inspection, and my
guess is probably the majority of DARs will have the same expectation for homebuilts
and standard aircraft, especially because most of us are building our -10's
for a cross country mission profile that looks like what folks use Cessna's,
Pipers and Mooneys for.
So putting a whiskey (or equivalent vertical card) compass in the panel or somewhere
in the pilot's sight sure seems prudent to me. (Forgot to mention I do
have a wet compass in the panel in addition to all of the fine electronic toys)
(Just got my EAA paperwork approving my application to be a Technical Counselor,
so I need to be clear about when something is just an opinion vs. a real fact.
This posting is just an opinion since I don't frankly know in detail how all
of the regs on this particular issue reference one another. So much to learn...)
-Dan Masys
---- Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Dan, congratulations on the FAA registration.
> That was sort of my question, if I have a full glass primary set up (G900X PFD/MFD)
with a dual battery system AND a Dynon 100 tied into my dual battery system
PLUS the Dynon internal battery = 3 batteries. (belt, suspenders and another
belt) Do I need a wet compass?
>
> Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 Flyoff time |
I wanted to pass on a quick note to those interested in how my DAR
check and Flyoff went. I got DAR approval on Tues at 2:30. We put all
the fairings and inspection covers on and I was in the air at 4:30. I
flew 2.7 hours that day and developed a LOW oil pressure issue. I
called the engine builder on Wednesday to discuss it and he said is
needed a new spring and ball in the pressure adjustment cap. He Fedex
it to me on Thursday at noon. Come to find out what I really needed
was an aluminum SEAT washer that the pressure check ball fits into.
That SEAT came loose and fell out.........which is NOT suppose to
happen. The oil was leaking around the seat and registering LOW
pressure. After fully inspecting the motor to confirm it was NOT
making metal we FLEW a Baron to Omaha, NE to get the new SEAT, flew
home and the landing gear would not go down!!!!!
PLUS it burned 50 Gals. of fuel in 60 minutes. After cranking the
gear down and doing a fly by to verify it was down..........I got the
new seat in the plane. Viola.....66 PSI oil.........winds were 36 mph
45 degrees to the runway...........UP I went. I flew 3.6 hours in very
gusty conditions.........one landing I had full RUDDER and a 48 MPH GS
. I thought my ankle was gonna break with those gusts hitting the
rudder.......then you have to get it taxied with that nose castering in
the wind!
Friday was a good day..............9.0 hours flown..........Saturday
was great also..............flew 9.2 hours for a total of 25 hours in 4
days!!!!!! Oh yea......today we had a HOT mag....the P lead broke off.
I am now gonna go get some sleep.........until SUNRISE...........then I
have a few friends that want a RIDE!
I still find it hard to believe we got this bird flying and done
(painted with wheel pants)in less than 2 years. Oh
yea........VFR........no Wet Compass yet. But I still would buy a good
handheld GPS before a $250 compass (JMHO)
If you are building ,.........keep bucking it is all WORTH IT! This
plane is UNBELEIVABLE in the air! See you all at OSH '07. Thanks
to all on this list who helped with friendly advice and counsel. I also
wanna thank those who MOTIVATED us to build a great plane on a BUDGET.
It can be done and done very respectably. :) Ask me AND Van! I did
spring for seat covers though unlike Vans plastic, over foam, wrapped
in Duct tape.
Dean 40449
Officially a member of the RV10 Flying family. WOW!
_____________________________________________________________
Click here to find single Christians that want to meet you today
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX09yknFM3unOinVLDWDnOZap0su7/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need some information CHT probs |
Just to follow up: my AF2500 engine monitor installation manual specifies
25-30 in-lbs for the CHT probes.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/8/2007 6:29:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com writes:
I put anti-seize on my CHT probes. I'm sure they'll need to be replaced
someday and I wanted them to come back out. I don't remember if I had a spec for
tightening those. I'll check next time I'm at the hangar if someone doesn't
come up with the answer first.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/8/2007 6:14:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis(at)cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
I'm wanting to install the CHT probes, but I can't find any information
as to what to torque them to. (oddly enough I found the info for
torquing the stainless steel bands that hold the EGT probs (45 in lbs).
Also do they get any sealant applied to the threads (anti-seize?)
Anybody got any insight here?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
I know we just had this discussion about a leaky rivet on a fuel tank. I
didn't comment because I thought I was the lucky recipient of leak-free
quickbuild tanks. You'll notice from the attached photo that I was not. Seeing
that
did not make me happy.
Last August I pressure tested my tanks using a pressure gauge from a blood
pressure cuff before installing them. I pumped them up to 35 mmHG (~ 0.67 psi)
and left them for 2-3 days. The pressure did not change so I figured they
were good. After filling them I checked for leaks and didn't see any. I've had
fuel in the tanks for 10 months and flown 85 hours. As I was washing the bugs
off my wing yesterday I found this leak. I'm glad I found it before painting.
I plan on emptying the fuel from the wing and trying the Locktite 290
approach, unless someone has a better suggestion.
-Jim
40134
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen Aileron trim servo |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks for your help.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117611#117611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Should be no argument about part 91 applying to experimentals. ALL of FAR part
91 applies to experimentals, it's the part 23 that does not. As another message
indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass panels, the steam gauges
are primary and the EFIS are secondary. They must have good reason for doing
this and unless one has data showing otherwise, I'd follow their model.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Hi Robin,
>
> FAR 91.205 says aircraft with standard airworthiness certificates need to have
a "magnetic direction indicator" for both VFR and IFR flight. Although one
might argue 91.205 doesn't apply to experimental aircraft, the simple fact is
that you will be at the mercy of the DAR who does your final inspection, and my
guess is probably the majority of DARs will have the same expectation for homebuilts
and standard aircraft, especially because most of us are building our
-10's for a cross country mission profile that looks like what folks use Cessna's,
Pipers and Mooneys for.
>
> So putting a whiskey (or equivalent vertical card) compass in the panel or somewhere
in the pilot's sight sure seems prudent to me. (Forgot to mention I
do have a wet compass in the panel in addition to all of the fine electronic
toys)
>
> (Just got my EAA paperwork approving my application to be a Technical Counselor,
so I need to be clear about when something is just an opinion vs. a real fact.
This posting is just an opinion since I don't frankly know in detail how
all of the regs on this particular issue reference one another. So much to learn...)
>
> -Dan Masys
>
> ---- Robin Marks wrote:
> >
> > Dan, congratulations on the FAA registration.
> > That was sort of my question, if I have a full glass primary set up (G900X
PFD/MFD) with a dual battery system AND a Dynon 100 tied into my dual battery
system PLUS the Dynon internal battery = 3 batteries. (belt, suspenders and another
belt) Do I need a wet compass?
> >
> > Robin
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some information CHT probs |
Thanks Jim, That and some anti-seize.
Deems
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Just to follow up: my AF2500 engine monitor installation manual
> specifies 25-30 in-lbs for the CHT probes.
>
> -Jim
> 40134
> *
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I'll be there from tuesday 24th to saturday 28th. But I will stay 20 mi away in
a college.
Hope to meet you there!
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117647#117647
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The McGough Family" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Flyoff time |
OK flame me guys but you test flew 9 hours a day??? Lucky your alive!
Cogratulations on completion.
Chris
>>
>> I wanted to pass on a quick note to those interested in how my DAR
>> check and Flyoff went. I got DAR approval on Tues at 2:30. We put
all
>> the fairings and inspection covers on and I was in the air at 4:30.
I
>> flew 2.7 hours that day and developed a LOW oil pressure issue. I
>> called the engine builder on Wednesday to discuss it and he said is
>> needed a new spring and ball in the pressure adjustment cap. He
Fedex
>> it to me on Thursday at noon. Come to find out what I really needed
>> was an aluminum SEAT washer that the pressure check ball fits into.
>> That SEAT came loose and fell out.........which is NOT suppose to
>> happen. The oil was leaking around the seat and registering LOW
>> pressure. After fully inspecting the motor to confirm it was NOT
>> making metal we FLEW a Baron to Omaha, NE to get the new SEAT, flew
>> home and the landing gear would not go down!!!!!
>> PLUS it burned 50 Gals. of fuel in 60 minutes. After cranking the
>> gear down and doing a fly by to verify it was down..........I got the
>> new seat in the plane. Viola.....66 PSI oil.........winds were 36
mph
>> 45 degrees to the runway...........UP I went. I flew 3.6 hours in
very
>> gusty conditions.........one landing I had full RUDDER and a 48 MPH
GS
>> . I thought my ankle was gonna break with those gusts hitting the
>> rudder.......then you have to get it taxied with that nose castering
in
>> the wind!
>> Friday was a good day..............9.0 hours flown..........Saturday
>> was great also..............flew 9.2 hours for a total of 25 hours in
4
>> days!!!!!! Oh yea......today we had a HOT mag....the P lead broke
off.
>>
>> I am now gonna go get some sleep.........until SUNRISE...........then
I
>> have a few friends that want a RIDE!
>>
>> I still find it hard to believe we got this bird flying and done
>> (painted with wheel pants)in less than 2 years. Oh
>> yea........VFR........no Wet Compass yet. But I still would buy a
good
>> handheld GPS before a $250 compass (JMHO)
>>
>> If you are building ,.........keep bucking it is all WORTH IT! This
>> plane is UNBELEIVABLE in the air! See you all at OSH '07. Thanks
>> to all on this list who helped with friendly advice and counsel. I
also
>> wanna thank those who MOTIVATED us to build a great plane on a
BUDGET.
>> It can be done and done very respectably. :) Ask me AND Van! I
did
>> spring for seat covers though unlike Vans plastic, over foam, wrapped
>> in Duct tape.
>>
>> Dean 40449
>> Officially a member of the RV10 Flying family. WOW!
>>
>> _____________________________________________________________
>> Click here to find single Christians that want to meet you today
>>
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX09yknFM3unO
inVLDWDnOZap0su7/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Flyoff time |
---- The McGough Family wrote:
> OK flame me guys but you test flew 9 hours a day??? Lucky your alive!
I was looking back in the test flight logs of my RV-7 and in the middle of the
test program I did a couple of days with four 2 hour flights each. Wasn't really
that big a deal since I had a set of test flight cards already made up, and
it was just a matter of pulling out a card, and then 'planning the flight, and
flying the plan'. A fair amount of that time was spent with the TruTrak flying
the plane while I recorded the test findings, and got set up for the next
manuver. With an adequate break between flights on these long June days, 9 hours
wouldn't seem a stretch in a low workload plane like the -10.
-Dan Masys
40448 - painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Dave,
I'm no expert, but I actually did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express last
night, so I'll throw in my .02.
I don't consider the soapy water check a secondary check to be done
if the air pressure leakdown fails...it's more of a primary test.
I did both, at the same time. First, pressurize the tank with the
balloon attached, and then spray it with a diluted concentration
of dish soap and water with a spray bottle. Any bubbles coming
out will grow and should be easy to spot. Check EVERYWHERE.
Then, leave the balloon full and see how it is the next day. If
it is still full, you're done. If it isn't, then you probably
need to do the bubble test again, and you'll most likely find any
problem if there is one. Other than a loose rivet, the air should
leak way easier than the fuel would. If you really want to get
a the bubble test down to a fine level, use helium and that will
easily find its way out any tiny spot, but that's way overkill.
It's interesting to see how the tanks are becoming the downfall
of the QB wings. Personally, I was much much happier to build
the tanks and KNOW how they were built than I would have been
to just buy them pre-built. It would be different if you were
buying from an aftermarket tank builder who would guarantee
them, because they'd take extra pride in their work. IMHO, people
make a little too big a deal out of how awful the tank building
job is...it just isn't that bad.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Dave Leikam wrote:
> OK, I am a short way from testing my QB tanks. If I do an air pressure
> test, and the test fails, how will I find any leaks? Soap?
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
> QB Wings
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
Wouldn't it be nice if we had someone smart enough to do that?
It doesn't take a rocket scientist to look up the vapor pressure of AVGAS
(the ASTM D 910 spec lists a maximum of about 7 psi). That is a lot of pressure
and that is why we have a vent line! I don't believe our tanks ever have to
or could endure that amount of pressure. So, I don't think the amount of
pressure makes too much difference; if there is a hole, air is going to go
through it. That's why I used about 0.5 psi. In my opinion, Tim has got it right
when he suggests using soapy water along with pressure from a ballon as a
primary test.
Jim
40134
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
In a message dated 6/10/2007 11:39:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rvbuilder(at)sausen.net writes:
What if one of you smart MIT types *cough* figure out about how much PSI a
full tank of avgas exerts while compensating for the difference in viscosity
between air and avgas. Should give you a better number to use to approx the
PSI of air for testing the tanks. Hopefully it will lead to more accurate
leak tests.
Just a thought. :-)
Michael
Do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
Not to mention the temperature of the tank itself. The temp inside my hangar
fluctuated from 55F at night to 120F during the afternoon, that naturally
changed the pressure drastically and makes it very hard determine if there is a
leak. Another reason I should have used the soapy water method over the
entire tank.
-Jim
In a message dated 6/11/2007 8:13:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters
Tim Olson wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson
>
> Dave,
SNIP
> Then, leave the balloon full and see how it is the next day. If
> it is still full, you're done. If it isn't, then you probably
> need to do the bubble test again, and you'll most likely find any
> problem if there is one.
SNIP
Keep in mind that normal changes in pressure altitude will change the
size of the balloon. Keep an eye on the local altimeter. You really
wouldn't want to spend a lot of time checking for leaks caused by a high
moving in!!! ;-)
Linn
do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primary instruments |
| From: | <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
William wrote:
"As another message indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass
panels, the steam gauges are primary and the EFIS are secondary. They
must have good reason for doing this and unless one has data showing
otherwise, I'd follow their model."
This is a fallacy. The EFIS systems in such aircraft as Cirrus ARE the
primary instruments, and thus must meet the FAR requirements for them
being within the pilots field of view, etc. The mechanical backup
instruments are often no longer in the "primary" field of view.
One possible confusion in this case was (historically speaking) that
initially the MFD engine instruments on Cirri were not legally the
primary engine indicators, as the MFD was certified to software
certification level D, whereas critical engine parameters demanded a
software certification level C. (so many Cirri have engine instruments
on the MFD, but also mechanical versions in the panel) With the
addition of these critical engine instruments onto the Avidyne PFD
(Level C), that restriction was lifted, and the mechanical engine
instruments disappeared from the production line.
Most EFIS systems do have a "magnetic direction indicator", but the FAA
would never let them certify an airplane without a compass on board.
Nothing in the FAR says you have to have a backup ADI to your EFIS,
either, but expect a lot of grief from the FAA if you tried to certify
that setup for production IFR.
TDT
40025
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV10 Flyoff time |
maybe it was the autopilot which was flying and he had four DVDs to watch.
>From: "The McGough Family" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 Flyoff time
>Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 09:21:19 +1000
>
>OK flame me guys but you test flew 9 hours a day??? Lucky your alive!
>
>Cogratulations on completion.
>
>Chris
>
>
> >>
> >> I wanted to pass on a quick note to those interested in how my DAR
> >> check and Flyoff went. I got DAR approval on Tues at 2:30. We put all
> >> the fairings and inspection covers on and I was in the air at 4:30. I
> >> flew 2.7 hours that day and developed a LOW oil pressure issue. I
> >> called the engine builder on Wednesday to discuss it and he said is
> >> needed a new spring and ball in the pressure adjustment cap. He Fedex
> >> it to me on Thursday at noon. Come to find out what I really needed
> >> was an aluminum SEAT washer that the pressure check ball fits into.
> >> That SEAT came loose and fell out.........which is NOT suppose to
> >> happen. The oil was leaking around the seat and registering LOW
> >> pressure. After fully inspecting the motor to confirm it was NOT
> >> making metal we FLEW a Baron to Omaha, NE to get the new SEAT, flew
> >> home and the landing gear would not go down!!!!!
> >> PLUS it burned 50 Gals. of fuel in 60 minutes. After cranking the
> >> gear down and doing a fly by to verify it was down..........I got the
> >> new seat in the plane. Viola.....66 PSI oil.........winds were 36 mph
> >> 45 degrees to the runway...........UP I went. I flew 3.6 hours in very
> >> gusty conditions.........one landing I had full RUDDER and a 48 MPH GS
> >> . I thought my ankle was gonna break with those gusts hitting the
> >> rudder.......then you have to get it taxied with that nose castering in
> >> the wind!
> >> Friday was a good day..............9.0 hours flown..........Saturday
> >> was great also..............flew 9.2 hours for a total of 25 hours in 4
> >> days!!!!!! Oh yea......today we had a HOT mag....the P lead broke off.
> >>
> >> I am now gonna go get some sleep.........until SUNRISE...........then I
> >> have a few friends that want a RIDE!
> >>
> >> I still find it hard to believe we got this bird flying and done
> >> (painted with wheel pants)in less than 2 years. Oh
> >> yea........VFR........no Wet Compass yet. But I still would buy a good
> >> handheld GPS before a $250 compass (JMHO)
> >>
> >> If you are building ,.........keep bucking it is all WORTH IT! This
> >> plane is UNBELEIVABLE in the air! See you all at OSH '07. Thanks
> >> to all on this list who helped with friendly advice and counsel. I also
> >> wanna thank those who MOTIVATED us to build a great plane on a BUDGET.
> >> It can be done and done very respectably. :) Ask me AND Van! I did
> >> spring for seat covers though unlike Vans plastic, over foam, wrapped
> >> in Duct tape.
> >>
> >> Dean 40449
> >> Officially a member of the RV10 Flying family. WOW!
> >>
> >> _____________________________________________________________
> >> Click here to find single Christians that want to meet you today
> >>
>http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX09yknFM3unOinVLDWDnOZap0su7/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > > > >
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primary instruments |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I don't have access to a Cirrus TCDS but I remember reading an article in Flying
which stated the same thing--that the steam gauges were primary and the EFIS
were supplemental. This was NOT referring to the engine instruments but the
EFIS AI/DG. Now I'll have to go check on that.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> William wrote:
> "As another message indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass
> panels, the steam gauges are primary and the EFIS are secondary. They
> must have good reason for doing this and unless one has data showing
> otherwise, I'd follow their model."
>
> This is a fallacy. The EFIS systems in such aircraft as Cirrus ARE the
> primary instruments, and thus must meet the FAR requirements for them
> being within the pilots field of view, etc. The mechanical backup
> instruments are often no longer in the "primary" field of view.
>
> One possible confusion in this case was (historically speaking) that
> initially the MFD engine instruments on Cirri were not legally the
> primary engine indicators, as the MFD was certified to software
> certification level D, whereas critical engine parameters demanded a
> software certification level C. (so many Cirri have engine instruments
> on the MFD, but also mechanical versions in the panel) With the
> addition of these critical engine instruments onto the Avidyne PFD
> (Level C), that restriction was lifted, and the mechanical engine
> instruments disappeared from the production line.
>
> Most EFIS systems do have a "magnetic direction indicator", but the FAA
> would never let them certify an airplane without a compass on board.
> Nothing in the FAR says you have to have a backup ADI to your EFIS,
> either, but expect a lot of grief from the FAA if you tried to certify
> that setup for production IFR.
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primary instruments |
| From: | "John Kirkland" <jskirkland(at)webpipe.net> |
I don't read Flying magazine (except in while waiting for my AME), I didn't stay
in a Holiday Inn Express, but I do fly a Cessna T182T with G1000. The EFIS is
primary, the three steam gauges, airpspeed, altimeter, and vacuum driven attitude,
are secondary. There are no backups on any of the engine gauges.
--------
RV-10 #40333
N540XP (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117823#117823
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primary instruments |
I'd say the real question is whether the FAA would approve of the
G1000 without the steam gauges. If not, I'd say they are required
equipment and the primary/secondary argument is meaningless. If they
will approve flight with the steam gauges removed or inop, then you
could call them secondary/backup.
On 6/11/07, John Kirkland wrote:
>
> I don't read Flying magazine (except in while waiting for my AME), I didn't stay
in a Holiday Inn Express, but I do fly a Cessna T182T with G1000. The EFIS
is primary, the three steam gauges, airpspeed, altimeter, and vacuum driven attitude,
are secondary. There are no backups on any of the engine gauges.
>
> --------
> RV-10 #40333
> N540XP (reserved)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=117823#117823
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primary instruments |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Page 10 of the attached PDF, which is Cirrus POH page 2-12, is careful
to not call their ever popular EFIS a PFD but rather a MFD. The table
shows primary gauges to be the foundation both for VFR and IFR ops.
Pages 13 and 14 of the PDF which are Cirrus POH Pages 2-15 and 2-16 are
graphically more specific to the question posed.
There is no doubt their panel is great, but it is not Primary which is
the root of the question. FAR 91.205 becomes important for Experimental
aircraft operating in other than VFR Day ops. So for IFR, the magnetic
indication takes on more importance on a well designed panel.
Ironically, in VFR Day ops onboard an Experimental Civil Aircraft, there
is little requirement for most gauges which well trained pilots have
come to rely on. IMHO.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 10:02 AM
Subject: re: RV10-List: Primary instruments
I don't have access to a Cirrus TCDS but I remember reading an article
in Flying which stated the same thing--that the steam gauges were
primary and the EFIS were supplemental. This was NOT referring to the
engine instruments but the EFIS AI/DG. Now I'll have to go check on
that.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> William wrote:
> "As another message indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass
> panels, the steam gauges are primary and the EFIS are secondary. They
> must have good reason for doing this and unless one has data showing
> otherwise, I'd follow their model."
>
> This is a fallacy. The EFIS systems in such aircraft as Cirrus ARE
the
> primary instruments, and thus must meet the FAR requirements for them
> being within the pilots field of view, etc. The mechanical backup
> instruments are often no longer in the "primary" field of view.
>
> One possible confusion in this case was (historically speaking) that
> initially the MFD engine instruments on Cirri were not legally the
> primary engine indicators, as the MFD was certified to software
> certification level D, whereas critical engine parameters demanded a
> software certification level C. (so many Cirri have engine
instruments
> on the MFD, but also mechanical versions in the panel) With the
> addition of these critical engine instruments onto the Avidyne PFD
> (Level C), that restriction was lifted, and the mechanical engine
> instruments disappeared from the production line.
>
> Most EFIS systems do have a "magnetic direction indicator", but the
FAA
> would never let them certify an airplane without a compass on board.
> Nothing in the FAR says you have to have a backup ADI to your EFIS,
> either, but expect a lot of grief from the FAA if you tried to certify
> that setup for production IFR.
>
> TDT
>
> 40025
>
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com> |
So here's my take on this test. We are building a slow build version
of the RV-10 so we took this as an opportunity to test the fuel tanks as
a two part process. This gave us a chance to resolve issues in a more
forgiving maner.
Step 1: As per instructions build a tank up to the point where you
install the back baffle that closes out the tank, but don't put the
back baffle in yet.
Set the tank aside and let the pro-seal dry for a week.
(build the other tank during the down time).
After the pro-seal is curred, place the tank in a set of
jigs with the leading edge pointing down and the rear baffle area facing
up. Support tank at the rib locations (we used three plywood forms
cut to the shape of the tank profile)
Fill the tank with water just below the rivet line for
the rear baffle.
Let it set and check all the rivets in the ribs. If you
have a leak a little bead of water will form around a rivet head. Now
you can easily fix any leaks as you have full access to all the rivets
in the rib sections. (NOTE, DO NOT TRY TO DUMP OUT THE WATER, you can
bend the tank. siphon it out)
Step 2: Once satisfied that the front portion of the tank is leak
free install the rear baffle as per instructions.
Let set a week and then perform the following test:
add a few gallons of water to the tank and then set it on a set of saw
horses with the baffle side down (leading edge up). The water will
cover the entire joint assembled during the close out.
Once satisfied your done.
We did this process to both of our tanks. Then as a belts and
suspenders test. we jiged up the tanks on three saw horse and filled
them full of water up to the filler neck and let them sit for over a
week. Periodic checks of all rivets showed two leak free tanks as the
above two step process predicted.
-Bob Newman
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primary instruments |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
OK, so for Cirrus, the TCDS defers to the POH and the POH states that the steam
gauges are primary and the MFDs (note it does not call them a PFD) is supplemental.
Anyone have a POH or TCDS for the G1000 equipped Cessna to see what it
says, as opposed to the truthiness?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> Page 10 of the attached PDF, which is Cirrus POH page 2-12, is careful
> to not call their ever popular EFIS a PFD but rather a MFD. The table
> shows primary gauges to be the foundation both for VFR and IFR ops.
> Pages 13 and 14 of the PDF which are Cirrus POH Pages 2-15 and 2-16 are
> graphically more specific to the question posed.
>
> There is no doubt their panel is great, but it is not Primary which is
> the root of the question. FAR 91.205 becomes important for Experimental
> aircraft operating in other than VFR Day ops. So for IFR, the magnetic
> indication takes on more importance on a well designed panel.
> Ironically, in VFR Day ops onboard an Experimental Civil Aircraft, there
> is little requirement for most gauges which well trained pilots have
> come to rely on. IMHO.
>
> John
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 10:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: re: RV10-List: Primary instruments
>
>
> I don't have access to a Cirrus TCDS but I remember reading an article
> in Flying which stated the same thing--that the steam gauges were
> primary and the EFIS were supplemental. This was NOT referring to the
> engine instruments but the EFIS AI/DG. Now I'll have to go check on
> that.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> > X-Rcpt-To:
> >
> > William wrote:
> > "As another message indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass
> > panels, the steam gauges are primary and the EFIS are secondary. They
> > must have good reason for doing this and unless one has data showing
> > otherwise, I'd follow their model."
> >
> > This is a fallacy. The EFIS systems in such aircraft as Cirrus ARE
> the
> > primary instruments, and thus must meet the FAR requirements for them
> > being within the pilots field of view, etc. The mechanical backup
> > instruments are often no longer in the "primary" field of view.
> >
> > One possible confusion in this case was (historically speaking) that
> > initially the MFD engine instruments on Cirri were not legally the
> > primary engine indicators, as the MFD was certified to software
> > certification level D, whereas critical engine parameters demanded a
> > software certification level C. (so many Cirri have engine
> instruments
> > on the MFD, but also mechanical versions in the panel) With the
> > addition of these critical engine instruments onto the Avidyne PFD
> > (Level C), that restriction was lifted, and the mechanical engine
> > instruments disappeared from the production line.
> >
> > Most EFIS systems do have a "magnetic direction indicator", but the
> FAA
> > would never let them certify an airplane without a compass on board.
> > Nothing in the FAR says you have to have a backup ADI to your EFIS,
> > either, but expect a lot of grief from the FAA if you tried to certify
> > that setup for production IFR.
> >
> > TDT
> >
> > 40025
> >
> > --
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primary instruments |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
OK, so for Cirrus, the TCDS defers to the POH and the POH states that the steam
gauges are primary and the MFDs (note it does not call them a PFD) is supplemental.
Anyone have a POH or TCDS for the G1000 equipped Cessna to see what it
says, as opposed to the truthiness?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
> Page 10 of the attached PDF, which is Cirrus POH page 2-12, is careful
> to not call their ever popular EFIS a PFD but rather a MFD. The table
> shows primary gauges to be the foundation both for VFR and IFR ops.
> Pages 13 and 14 of the PDF which are Cirrus POH Pages 2-15 and 2-16 are
> graphically more specific to the question posed.
>
> There is no doubt their panel is great, but it is not Primary which is
> the root of the question. FAR 91.205 becomes important for Experimental
> aircraft operating in other than VFR Day ops. So for IFR, the magnetic
> indication takes on more importance on a well designed panel.
> Ironically, in VFR Day ops onboard an Experimental Civil Aircraft, there
> is little requirement for most gauges which well trained pilots have
> come to rely on. IMHO.
>
> John
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Curtis
> Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 10:02 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: re: RV10-List: Primary instruments
>
>
> I don't have access to a Cirrus TCDS but I remember reading an article
> in Flying which stated the same thing--that the steam gauges were
> primary and the EFIS were supplemental. This was NOT referring to the
> engine instruments but the EFIS AI/DG. Now I'll have to go check on
> that.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> > X-Rcpt-To:
> >
> > William wrote:
> > "As another message indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass
> > panels, the steam gauges are primary and the EFIS are secondary. They
> > must have good reason for doing this and unless one has data showing
> > otherwise, I'd follow their model."
> >
> > This is a fallacy. The EFIS systems in such aircraft as Cirrus ARE
> the
> > primary instruments, and thus must meet the FAR requirements for them
> > being within the pilots field of view, etc. The mechanical backup
> > instruments are often no longer in the "primary" field of view.
> >
> > One possible confusion in this case was (historically speaking) that
> > initially the MFD engine instruments on Cirri were not legally the
> > primary engine indicators, as the MFD was certified to software
> > certification level D, whereas critical engine parameters demanded a
> > software certification level C. (so many Cirri have engine
> instruments
> > on the MFD, but also mechanical versions in the panel) With the
> > addition of these critical engine instruments onto the Avidyne PFD
> > (Level C), that restriction was lifted, and the mechanical engine
> > instruments disappeared from the production line.
> >
> > Most EFIS systems do have a "magnetic direction indicator", but the
> FAA
> > would never let them certify an airplane without a compass on board.
> > Nothing in the FAR says you have to have a backup ADI to your EFIS,
> > either, but expect a lot of grief from the FAA if you tried to certify
> > that setup for production IFR.
> >
> > TDT
> >
> > 40025
> >
> > --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
Two things to add.
Water is a bigger molecule than avgas and while it may not leak avgas can.
Don't ask me how I know.
2nd. Drying out the tank can be difficult. Hooking a Vacuum cleaner to
the filler and taping it off, then let it run for a few days should get most
of it.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Newman
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel Leak
So here's my take on this test. We are building a slow build version
of the RV-10 so we took this as an opportunity to test the fuel tanks as
a two part process. This gave us a chance to resolve issues in a more
forgiving maner.
Step 1: As per instructions build a tank up to the point where you
install the back baffle that closes out the tank, but don't put the
back baffle in yet.
Set the tank aside and let the pro-seal dry for a week.
(build the other tank during the down time).
After the pro-seal is curred, place the tank in a set of
jigs with the leading edge pointing down and the rear baffle area facing
up. Support tank at the rib locations (we used three plywood forms
cut to the shape of the tank profile)
Fill the tank with water just below the rivet line for
the rear baffle.
Let it set and check all the rivets in the ribs. If you
have a leak a little bead of water will form around a rivet head. Now
you can easily fix any leaks as you have full access to all the rivets
in the rib sections. (NOTE, DO NOT TRY TO DUMP OUT THE WATER, you can
bend the tank. siphon it out)
Step 2: Once satisfied that the front portion of the tank is leak
free install the rear baffle as per instructions.
Let set a week and then perform the following test:
add a few gallons of water to the tank and then set it on a set of saw
horses with the baffle side down (leading edge up). The water will
cover the entire joint assembled during the close out.
Once satisfied your done.
We did this process to both of our tanks. Then as a belts and
suspenders test. we jiged up the tanks on three saw horse and filled
them full of water up to the filler neck and let them sit for over a
week. Periodic checks of all rivets showed two leak free tanks as the
above two step process predicted.
-Bob Newman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Primary instruments |
In a message dated 6/11/2007 5:32:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
wcurtis(at)nerv10.com writes:
Anyone have a POH or TCDS for the G1000 equipped Cessna to see what it says,
as opposed to the truthiness?
On page 7-10 in the 182T Nav III Skylane it say's...Pilot Panel Layout
...the DGU 1040 Primary Flight Display (PDF), centered on the insturment panel
in
front of the pilot, shows the primary flight instruments during normal
operation."
the it goes on to take about start ups and reversionary mode...
So I'd take it that Cessna believes the PDF contains the primary flight
instruments...
P
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Remove QB tanks to test? |
Thanks for the soap responses everyone. Is it possible to do a good
test without removing the tanks from the wings? Mine are soooo nice and
snug right now. ???????
Thanks for letting me continually pick your brains.
Dave Leikam
40496
QB wing stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com> |
I'll be there Sunday to Saturday in my RV-4, parking in the Van's Air
Force area. I've got to take my wife up to Mackinac Island on
Wednesday, returning Thursday, otherwise we'll be at OSh the whole time.
Looking forward to meeting more RV-10 builders.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
#40610
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marcus Cooper
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 8:19 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: OSH dates ?
We'll be arriving 25 Jul and departing Friday morning. Plan on parking
in the camping area.
Marcus
40286
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 1:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: OSH dates ?
OK I need to make arrangements for OSH and would like to time my stay
(aprox 3 days) to coincide with as many of you as possible. Right now
I'm thinking about Tues 7/24, Wed, and Thurs 7/26. What's everybody
elses plans?
Tim is it time to re open the OSH attendance list on your site?
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff. (I swear the fiberglass stuff never
ends!) http://deemsrv10.com/
_________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Indran Chelvanayagam <dc71(at)netspace.net.au> |
Sorry to correct this misunderstanding,
Water molecule = H2O (small)
Avgas= mixture of multiple different hydrocarbon molecules, all
larger than C4H10 (medium to large)
I'm no physicist, but my guess at the reason that Avgas leaks is
something to do with different surface tension of the two liquids. Or
possible the differing adherence to fuel tank surfaces.
Indran
>
> Water is a bigger molecule than avgas and while it may not leak
> avgas can.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <n1345p(at)suddenlink.net> |
While water is a smaller molecule, hydrogen bonding between molecules forms clumps
of water, making water "wet", instead of dry like fuel.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_bond#Hydrogen_bonds_in_water
mitch
---- Indran Chelvanayagam wrote:
============
Sorry to correct this misunderstanding,
Water molecule = H2O (small)
Avgas= mixture of multiple different hydrocarbon molecules, all
larger than C4H10 (medium to large)
I'm no physicist, but my guess at the reason that Avgas leaks is
something to do with different surface tension of the two liquids. Or
possible the differing adherence to fuel tank surfaces.
Indran
>
> Water is a bigger molecule than avgas and while it may not leak
> avgas can.
--
Learn2fly www.chickashawings.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
And to further complicate matters, the simpler H2O molecule is heavier (more mass
at 8 pounds per gallon) than the more complex gasoline (C8H18) hydrocarbon
molecule at 6 pounds per gallon. As far as the physical size of one molecule
verses another, in the units we are talking about it really insignificant. Now
if I was building filters for biomedical of respiratory systems, that would
be another story. Another interesting thing about H2O is that it is one of the
rare compounds in nature that expands and gets lighter as it gets colder. Ice
takes up about 10% more volume than water. Most everything else shrinks and
gets heavier as they get colder.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> Sorry to correct this misunderstanding,
>
> Water molecule = H2O (small)
> Avgas= mixture of multiple different hydrocarbon molecules, all
> larger than C4H10 (medium to large)
>
> I'm no physicist, but my guess at the reason that Avgas leaks is
> something to do with different surface tension of the two liquids. Or
> possible the differing adherence to fuel tank surfaces.
>
> Indran
>
>
>
> >
> > Water is a bigger molecule than avgas and while it may not leak
> > avgas can.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primary Education |
| From: | <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
"There is no doubt their panel is great, but it is not Primary which is
the root of the question. "
TDT: Gee, I must have been asleep when I was working on Entegra PFD and
MFD certification projects when I was at Avidyne . . .
"is careful to not call their ever popular EFIS a PFD but rather a MFD"
TDT: Well, if they are calling it an MFD, they are probably referring
to the MFD, not the PFD. The Avidyne Entegra system consists of two
distinctly separate boxes, the PFD and the MFD. Different hardware,
different OS, different software, same size screens. As mentioned
earlier, the MFD, due to software certification levels, is NOT a primary
instrument for engine indications, and is not a primary navigation
instrument, either, despite the pretty moving map. Check the
date/revision on that POH, too. Remember, there are at least three
different major TC versions of Cirrus cockpits:
a) Old-school pre-Avidyne with ARNAV MFD
b) Avidyne MFD only with 6-pack
c) Avidyne PFD & MFD with mechanical engine instruments
d) Avidyne PFD & MFD with no mechanical engine instruments
Do you think the FAA would allow the mechanical flight instruments to be
mounted low in the bolster if they were "primary?" That's the main
reason for the difference. All primary flight instruments have to be
within a designated field of view of the pilot's eyepoint.
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald L Owen" <flywithowen(at)gmail.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com> |
Ghost Rider
Blood and Chocolate
--------------------------------------
Subject: Re: Que
memory
rescue me s#3
highlander:search for vengeance
John Hurst wrote:
The Messengers
----- Original Message ----
Subject: Re: Que
war stories
ssi: sexy squad invstigation
John Hurst wrote:
Norbit
Little Brittan Series 2
Hustle Series 1
--------------------------
Subject: Re: Que
hawk is dying
private moments
resistance
John Hurst wrote:
Little Brittan Series one
Subject: Re: Que
shadow walkers
mexican american
fay grim
constellation
foursome
dissapeared
Josh T wrote:
the thirst
the italian
Josh T wrote:
kyle xy S#1
diggers
John Hurst wrote:
Epic Movie - UR
--------------------------------
apocalypto
arthur
venus
sin eater
mistress of spices
John Hurst wrote:
Painted Veil
The Dead Girl
----- Original Message ----
From: John Hurst <johnh38(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 4:25:56 PM
Subject: Re: Que
Pan's Labyrinth 2 disc set
The Kovak Box
Stomp the Yard
Seraphim Falls
----- Original Message ----
From: Josh T <joshgator(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2007 9:40:49 PM
Subject: Re: Que
fur
secret life of words
jump in
because i said so
breaking and entering
tiger and the snow
Josh T wrote:
illegal aliens
sleeping dogs lie
last supper
Josh T wrote:
born to fight
John Hurst wrote:
Alphadog
Dreamgirls
The Hitcher
----- Original Message ----
From: Josh T <joshgator(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2007 9:29:50 PM
Subject: Re: Que
little children
happily never after
the cleaner
flannel pajamas
45
the queen
10 items or less
lost tomb of jesus
caffeine
tsunami (2 discs)
slingshot
wilderness survival for girls
until death
marsh
rcmcmillanfsu(at)aol.com wrote:
Night at the Museum
Harry Potter 2
-----Original Message-----
From: joshgator(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Thu, 19 Apr 2007 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: Que
4/19
succubus
off the black
4/17
george and the dragon
freedom writers
blacktie nights (3 disc)
Notes on a Scandal
Looked at Ntnl. Lampoons: Pucked...tough, tough decision.
Sent: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 12:56 PM
the aura
doomed
life of the party
gamebox 1.0
bobby
aurora borealis
rcmcmillanfsu(at)aol.com wrote:
I'm finishing the babewatch seasons
-----Original Message-----
From: joshgator(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Thu, 5 Apr 2007 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: Que
tried to clean up the list below some... picked up
entourage S#3
3 needles
copying beethoven
-----Original Message-----
From: joshgator(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: Que
i think if we just keep replying to this same email we'll all know whats been picked
up (ie: sublime & candy & comeback season... are all in this email)
lost room (1&2)
king maker
unatural & accidental
attack of the gryphon
Charlotte's WebThe Good ShepherdMoney Power Respect
Tenacious D
Volver
Black X-mas UR
Sent: Tue, 27 Mar 2007 12:35 PM
happy feet
funny money
comeback season
candy
heart of the game
la casa loca
rcmcmillanfsu(at)aol.com wrote:
Rocky
First Born
Blood Diamond
Nativity
something about into the night???
Dukes of Hazard the Beginning
Sent: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 5:52 PM
everyones hero
eragon
lets go to prison
come early morning
american cousins
the hunt
pleasure drivers
the condor
Sent: Thu, 15 Mar 2007 9:12 PM
fast food nation
color of the cross
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:42:41 AM
Wild Camp
Sublime
Ntnl. Lampoons Spring Break
Harsh Times
Don't pick lemons.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
BTW, I got a call from Michelle at TruTrak out of the blue that they are
preparing to start shipping 2 inch ADIs . . .
TDT
40025
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dear List,
I have read & re-read the archives regarding the tunnel heat
issue and I am a bit confused. It seems some people have solved their
heat issue but there doesn't seem to be a consensus as to the proper way
to resolve it and that the "fix" is more like a series of small
corrections rather than just one modification.
From my reading of the archives that heat enters the tunnel
due to a number of reasons:
* Radiant heat from exhaust stack
* Radiant heat from small cowl opening
* Heat leaking in from poorly sealed heater boxes
* Lack of air flow thru tunnel allowing hot air to build
>From what I can tell the most common solutions are:
* Insulated false floor
* Pilots side firewall insulation
* Engine side insulation (stick on or spray on)
* Additional gill vents on the underside of the cowl
* Proper sealing of heater boxes
* Cool air venting of tunnel
Unfortunately my full fuel system is already in place and adding the
false floor would be a challenge at this point. I am considering placing
an OAT sensor in the tunnel to monitor the temps.
One last note: we are planning to use the SJ Cold Induction cowl and
plenum with our BPE Cold Induction IO-540.
Can I get a consensus (metaphysical impossibility on the RV-List) as to
the best way(s) to prevent this issue based on having my fuel system in
place and assuming we will to a top job of sealing the heater boxes?
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
Robin Marks
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 350 Hours
RV-10 Parts, parts, parts N456RV Reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)AOL.COM |
Yes, Todd, but that is at 1 G. Now what if you're pulling 3.8 Gs... it's 1.2
psi... never mind... it doesn't matter... You're right. Keep it simple.
-Jim
In a message dated 6/12/2007 4:58:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
t_agold(at)yahoo.com writes:
I'm no MIT grad, but a 12 inch column of gasoline is about 0.31 psi.
Applying more pressure may actually cause problems. A gas is much harder to seal
than a liquid due to surface tension and the size of the molecule. I just
finished my tanks, but have not tested them yet. I plan on using the
balloon/soapy water test. It's cheap and effective. I just don't see the need
for more
complex methods.
Todd #362
(http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
Robin, I was similarly confused/worried by the reports/solutions
regarding tunnel heat. There are strong feeling about the source and the
solution/s. in the end I reasoned that the biggest heat producer was
forward of the firewall, and the best thing I could do was insulate the
firewall. I ended up putting a fiberfrax thermal barrier between the
original firewall and a 'faux' firewall that I placed on top of it. I
also put a fiberfrax insulation barrier between the heater control boxes
and the firewall's. There is a theory that some of the heat comes from
the exhaust. If you order the John Forsling exhaust with the
'turn-downs' to go with your BPE cold air, the exhaust is extended
further back.aft and away from the bottom of the fuse. here's links to
some pictures.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/DSC03240.html
Click forward and back to see other pictures.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF6%20Exhaust%20System/slides/DSC04747.html
I have the plenum and the James Cowl and I don't seen (and haven't made)
any changes relative to tunnel heat. There are several reports that
adding vents to the bottom of the cowl improves CHT cooling, but none
from anyone with the James cowl/plenum, I'm holding off until I fly to
determine if it's necessary.
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Dear List,
>
> I have read & re-read the archives regarding the tunnel heat issue and
> I am a bit confused. It seems some people have solved their heat issue
> but there doesnt seem to be a consensus as to the proper way to
> resolve it and that the fix is more like a series of small
> corrections rather than just one modification.
>
> From my reading of the archives that heat enters the tunnel due to a
> number of reasons:
>
> Radiant heat from exhaust stack
>
> Radiant heat from small cowl opening
>
> Heat leaking in from poorly sealed heater boxes
>
> Lack of air flow thru tunnel allowing hot air to build
>
> From what I can tell the most common solutions are:
>
> Insulated false floor
>
> Pilots side firewall insulation
>
> Engine side insulation (stick on or spray on)
>
> Additional gill vents on the underside of the cowl
>
> Proper sealing of heater boxes
>
> Cool air venting of tunnel
>
> Unfortunately my full fuel system is already in place and adding the
> false floor would be a challenge at this point. I am considering
> placing an OAT sensor in the tunnel to monitor the temps.
>
> One last note: we are planning to use the SJ Cold Induction cowl and
> plenum with our BPE Cold Induction IO-540.
>
> Can I get a consensus (metaphysical impossibility on the RV-List) as
> to the best way(s) to prevent this issue based on having my fuel
> system in place and assuming we will to a top job of sealing the
> heater boxes?
>
> Thanks in advance for your consideration.
>
> Robin Marks
>
> RV-4 Sold
>
> RV-6A 350 Hours
>
> RV-10 Parts, parts, parts N456RV Reserved
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
Robin,
I had the fuel system in before I heard anyone mention tunnel heat and I
wasn't about to go tearing things out. My suggestion is to wait and see if y
ou
have a problem with your particular set up before you start 'fixing' anythin
g.
You may have read my post about my tunnel heat solutions.
_http://forum.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=13430_
(http://forum.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=13430)
The small fiberglass trimming I did on the aft edge of the "reverse scoop"
under the belly made all the difference for me. Someday I may do some testin
g
to figure out exactly why that made such a change, but for now I'm happy th
at
tunnel heat is not a problem.
So, my vote is: Don't worry about it and keep building.
Good luck.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/12/2007 5:04:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
robin1(at)mrmoisture.com writes:
Dear List,
I have read & re-read the archives regarding the tunnel heat issue and I am
a bit confused. It seems some people have solved their heat issue but there
doesn=99t seem to be a consensus as to the proper way to resolve it an
d that the
=9Cfix=9D is more like a series of small corrections rather than
just one
modification.
>From my reading of the archives that heat enters the tunnel due to a number
of reasons:
=C2=B7 Radiant heat from exhaust stack
=C2=B7 Radiant heat from small cowl opening
=C2=B7 Heat leaking in from poorly sealed heater boxes
=C2=B7 Lack of air flow thru tunnel allowing hot air to build
>From what I can tell the most common solutions are:
=C2=B7 Insulated false floor
=C2=B7 Pilots side firewall insulation
=C2=B7 Engine side insulation (stick on or spray on)
=C2=B7 Additional gill vents on the underside of the cowl
=C2=B7 Proper sealing of heater boxes
=C2=B7 Cool air venting of tunnel
Unfortunately my full fuel system is already in place and adding the false
floor would be a challenge at this point. I am considering placing an OAT
sensor in the tunnel to monitor the temps.
One last note: we are planning to use the SJ Cold Induction cowl and plenum
with our BPE Cold Induction IO-540.
Can I get a consensus (metaphysical impossibility on the RV-List) as to the
best way(s) to prevent this issue based on having my fuel system in place a
nd
assuming we will to a top job of sealing the heater boxes?
Thanks in advance for your consideration.
Robin Marks
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 350 Hours
RV-10 Parts, parts, parts N456RV Reserved
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gorejr(at)bellsouth.net> |
Could you give us some specifics about the fiberfrax thermal barrier? Application
method and supplier? Thanks. Jim
When are you going to be ready to fly? I am waiting on Will James to make my cowl
after several of you folks with Barrett cold air induction and plenum get
some egt and cht #'s.
>
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2007/06/12 Tue PM 04:31:38 EST
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tunnel Heat
>
>
> Robin, I was similarly confused/worried by the reports/solutions
> regarding tunnel heat. There are strong feeling about the source and the
> solution/s. in the end I reasoned that the biggest heat producer was
> forward of the firewall, and the best thing I could do was insulate the
> firewall. I ended up putting a fiberfrax thermal barrier between the
> original firewall and a 'faux' firewall that I placed on top of it. I
> also put a fiberfrax insulation barrier between the heater control boxes
> and the firewall's. There is a theory that some of the heat comes from
> the exhaust. If you order the John Forsling exhaust with the
> 'turn-downs' to go with your BPE cold air, the exhaust is extended
> further back.aft and away from the bottom of the fuse. here's links to
> some pictures.
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2041%20Upper%20Fwd%20Fuse%20Install/slides/DSC03240.html
>
> Click forward and back to see other pictures.
>
> http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20FF6%20Exhaust%20System/slides/DSC04747.html
>
> I have the plenum and the James Cowl and I don't seen (and haven't made)
> any changes relative to tunnel heat. There are several reports that
> adding vents to the bottom of the cowl improves CHT cooling, but none
> from anyone with the James cowl/plenum, I'm holding off until I fly to
> determine if it's necessary.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> Robin Marks wrote:
> >
> > Dear List,
> >
> > I have read & re-read the archives regarding the tunnel heat issue and
> > I am a bit confused. It seems some people have solved their heat issue
> > but there doesn?t seem to be a consensus as to the proper way to
> > resolve it and that the ?fix? is more like a series of small
> > corrections rather than just one modification.
> >
> > From my reading of the archives that heat enters the tunnel due to a
> > number of reasons:
> >
> > Radiant heat from exhaust stack
> >
> > Radiant heat from small cowl opening
> >
> > Heat leaking in from poorly sealed heater boxes
> >
> > Lack of air flow thru tunnel allowing hot air to build
> >
> > From what I can tell the most common solutions are:
> >
> > Insulated false floor
> >
> > Pilots side firewall insulation
> >
> > Engine side insulation (stick on or spray on)
> >
> > Additional gill vents on the underside of the cowl
> >
> > Proper sealing of heater boxes
> >
> > Cool air venting of tunnel
> >
> > Unfortunately my full fuel system is already in place and adding the
> > false floor would be a challenge at this point. I am considering
> > placing an OAT sensor in the tunnel to monitor the temps.
> >
> > One last note: we are planning to use the SJ Cold Induction cowl and
> > plenum with our BPE Cold Induction IO-540.
> >
> > Can I get a consensus (metaphysical impossibility on the RV-List) as
> > to the best way(s) to prevent this issue based on having my fuel
> > system in place and assuming we will to a top job of sealing the
> > heater boxes?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your consideration.
> >
> > Robin Marks
> >
> > RV-4 Sold
> >
> > RV-6A 350 Hours
> >
> > RV-10 Parts, parts, parts N456RV Reserved
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
FiberFrax is a light weight thermal insulation which can withstand temps
to 2400 degrees. It's available in a cloth like blanket aprox 3/32 "
thick. It's applied with its own adhesive. However if anyone wants to
pursue this, I have 2 bottles of adhesive I'd be happy to give away.
Caution the adhesive does NOT work well with Stainless steel, I used it
to put and hold in place while I put the stainless steel sandwich
together w/ rivets.
I 1st became aware of it when building a Long EZ, it was used as an
insulation blanket between the Rear bulkhead/firewall made from marine
plywood and the stainless steel heat/fire shield on the engine side.
Here's a link to Aircraft Spruce site:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fiberfrax.php
There are at lest 2 other alternatives to fiber frax.
Cool Mat
Zyrtex
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
gorejr(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
>
> Could you give us some specifics about the fiberfrax thermal barrier? Application
method and supplier? Thanks. Jim
> When are you going to be ready to fly? I am waiting on Will James to make my
cowl after several of you folks with Barrett cold air induction and plenum get
some egt and cht #'s.
>
>> Fr
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
> When are you going to be ready to fly?
Good question.... Sometime this year hopefully, best guess at this time
OCT. However, there is another RV-10 BPE cold air w/ James cowl/plenum
ahead of me. I just spoke to Gary Foster in OK, a couple of day's ago,
and he's getting VERY close
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
How tight should the nuts be on the brake / fuel line fitting nuts?
Thanks in advance for replies...
Regards,
Jay
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo!
Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
That is a very good question. I have asked this quite a few times and I get a different
answer every time.
>From what I have researched there is no specific torque values. When I toured
Lancair, the engine builder there told me to tighten it until it was snug (you
can feel with when the flared fitting is touching both sides of the fitting
and nut) then go an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Other comments I have received are:
"Just tight enough that it won't leak"
"Just snug it up and check for leaks"
I actually made some fittings on the bench, tightened them up then took them apart
to check for any tearing or excessive deformation and sort of calibrated myself.
I know that it is more important to have a top of the line flaring tool
and to also not over or under flare the tubing.
You may want to call Bart at Aerosport and ask him.
Good Luck.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 7:44:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
How tight should the nuts be on the brake / fuel line fitting nuts?
Thanks in advance for replies...
Regards,
Jay
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo!
Answers - Check it out.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
I think the torque values are listed in my copy of Standard Aircraft
Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians. I don't have access to it right now so
I
can't tell you what it says.
I used those values and ended up with some leaks so I tightened them "Just
tight enough that it won't leak" and then started the practice of "Just snug
it up and check for leaks". With further experience with a particularly
annoying brake line leak, I found "tightening and loosening the nut several times
before torquing it helped to achieve a tight seal". So there is one more
comment to add to the list.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 6/13/2007 12:53:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com writes:
That is a very good question. I have asked this quite a few times and I get
a different answer every time.
>From what I have researched there is no specific torque values. When I
toured Lancair, the engine builder there told me to tighten it until it was snug
(you can feel with when the flared fitting is touching both sides of the
fitting and nut) then go an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Other comments I have received are:
"Just tight enough that it won't leak"
"Just snug it up and check for leaks"
I actually made some fittings on the bench, tightened them up then took them
apart to check for any tearing or excessive deformation and sort of
calibrated myself. I know that it is more important to have a top of the line
flaring tool and to also not over or under flare the tubing.
You may want to call Bart at Aerosport and ask him.
Good Luck.
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 7:44:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
I recently bought a torque wrench for sockets. I don't see how it would
work on a line fitting. Does this require a different type of torque
wrench?
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com wrote:
> I think the torque values are listed in my copy of Standard Aircraft
> Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians. I don't have access to it
> right now so I can't tell you what it says.
>
> I used those values and ended up with some leaks so I tightened them
> "Just tight enough that it won't leak" and then started the practice
> of "Just snug it up and check for leaks". With further experience with
> a particularly annoying brake line leak, I found "tightening and
> loosening the nut several times before torquing it helped to achieve a
> tight seal". So there is one more comment to add to the list.
>
> -Jim
> 40134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
Check out 'crows foot/feet' at you favorite tool supplier. They're open
end wrench extensions designed to be used on a socket wrench.
WRT to torque, depending on how you use them, their use requires some
arithmetic conversion, as they can extend the 'arm' that is applying the
torque.
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> I recently bought a torque wrench for sockets. I don't see how it
> would work on a line fitting. Does this require a different type of
> torque wrench?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
I've been testing my brake lines, as I build them, with a handheld vacuum p
ump. Just plug one end of a line and pull a vacuum at the other with a hand
operated Mitivac. I figure if they will hold a vacuum they should hold bra
ke fluid.
If you go this route, I think Mitivacs are available through a number of so
urces (Aircraft Tool Supply and automotive outlets as well.) I've as heard
the aluminum ones hold up better than the plastic bodies.
Vern Smith (#324 fuselage)> Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2007 16:07:55 -0400> From: La
rryRosen(at)comcast.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List:
arry Rosen > > Is there a way to test the systems p
rior to completion? I have most of > the break lines in, but since the plan
e is not on its gear yet it is not > complete, How do I test it.> > Same wi
th the fuel system. How do I test it with out the fuel tanks?> > Larry Rose
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net>> >> > Jay Brinkmeyer wrote:> >> >> --> RV10-List
message posted by: Jay Brinkmeyer > >> > >>> >> H
ow tight should the nuts be on the brake / fuel line fitting nuts?> >>> > T
ight enough not to leak. :-P . I tighten to 'fairly snug'.> > Linn> > do no
t archive> >> >>> >> Thanks in advance for replies...> >> Regards,> >> Jay>
>>> >>> >>> >> Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from >
>> someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.> >> http://answers.yah
oo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545469> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> > >>> >> >>
=================> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail to go? Get your Hotmail, news, sports and much more! Check out the
New MSN Mobile!
http://mobile.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
Last week I posted a question about my non working G/S in my newly
installed upgraded RV8 panel. Thanks for all the suggestions!. Bob
Archer said I might be "loosely connected" as the problem. Rather than
take offense at this, I asked for an explanation, and he said the BNC
center pin may not be fully seated in the connector. Well the only
connector that was not installed on the bench, but rather behind the
panel, sure enough was loosely connected, a result of the difficult
access. After changing that out, the system works perfectly, that is the
wingtip antenna, with splitter to the G430 VLOC and G/S has a nice
strong signal.
NOW for the really good news. It turns out the TruTrak ADI pilot
autopilot not only flys the GPS approaches just fine, but it flys the
ILS localizer right down the center of the runway. Of course it's really
flying the GPS overlay, but it's the same course, with the same
accuracy. The CDI shows you the LOC, but the ADI Pilot looks at the GPS.
This is perfectly legal to do despite the fact that the TruTrak people
told me it wouldn't fly a GPS approach without roll steering. Of course
they are talking a full procedure turn, or holding pattern entry, but
for vectors to final it'll do the job. So anyone on a tight budget might
want to consider this (G430 and ADI Pilot) solution as a very capable
"punch the summer stratus" system.
Chris Hukill
Back to work on the 10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald L Owen" <flywithowen(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
A set of crows foot wrenches will enable you to do this.
Dan
N289DT RV10E E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
I recently bought a torque wrench for sockets. I don't see how it would
work on a line fitting. Does this require a different type of torque
wrench?
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com wrote:
> I think the torque values are listed in my copy of Standard Aircraft
> Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians. I don't have access to it
> right now so I can't tell you what it says.
>
> I used those values and ended up with some leaks so I tightened them
> "Just tight enough that it won't leak" and then started the practice
> of "Just snug it up and check for leaks". With further experience with
> a particularly annoying brake line leak, I found "tightening and
> loosening the nut several times before torquing it helped to achieve a
> tight seal". So there is one more comment to add to the list.
>
> -Jim
> 40134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald L Owen" <flywithowen(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some information CHT probs |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald L Owen" <flywithowen(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need some information CHT probs |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
I have a TruTrak Digiflight 2 with GPS steering connected to a UPS GX60 approach
certified GPS, and also an SL30 in the panel of my -7A. I commonly fly the
GPS overlay on the ILS to my home airport, while watching the ILS needles from
the SL30, and I think you will find that the GPS guidance isn't always down the
centerline, but always close enough when you break out (even at minimums) so
that you can make a normal landing. GPS retains whatever its native error is
at all positions in the approach path, whereas the ILS course guidance gets
more precise as you approach decision height.
Not a big deal for most approaches but it can be a bit disconcerting the first
time you descend through a low overcast flying an ILS overly and break out expecting
to see the "rabbit" lights directly in front of you, but instead they are
off to one side or the other.
-Dan Masys
40448 paint - (yuk :( )
---- Chris Hukill wrote:
> NOW for the really good news. It turns out the TruTrak ADI pilot autopilot not
only flys the GPS approaches just fine, but it flys the ILS localizer right
down the center of the runway. Of course it's really flying the GPS overlay,
but it's the same course, with the same accuracy. The CDI shows you the LOC, but
the ADI Pilot looks at the GPS. This is perfectly legal to do despite the fact
that the TruTrak people told me it wouldn't fly a GPS approach without roll
steering. Of course they are talking a full procedure turn, or holding pattern
entry, but for vectors to final it'll do the job. So anyone on a tight budget
might want to consider this (G430 and ADI Pilot) solution as a very capable
"punch the summer stratus" system.
>
> Chris Hukill
> Back to work on the 10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
I learned something today about my audio panel. When I fly with 4 people in the
RV-10 I get aircraft noise turning on the headset mic. I have the PS 8000B
and I can tell that the auto-squelch is adjusting the squelch between the front
seats then the back seats, then front seats and it is quite annoying. I read
in the manual about purchasing new mic covers from Oregon Aero to help this
issue and called them too. They said the new mic covers should fix the problem.
You would think that Bose would make a descent mic cover for $1000.
Anyway, if you experience the same issues you may want to look into this. The
covers were $13 each.
http://www.oregonaero.com/p62_2001.html#micmuff
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I'll be there Sun thru Wed. Flying into MSP then a rental car. On a standby list
for a dorm; otherwise a quick run to a big box store for a tent. Hope to meet
some of you guys/gals.
--------
#40572 Empennage done, starting QB Wings
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118471#118471
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Scott,
You want to call Joe Tesini at Bose. 508-766-5998
There is a long story to the Mic's but with the PMA8000
and the Bose headsets the mic can be too hot for and break
squelch too easily. They use a GenTex Mic on the original
headsets, but they have one or two other versions of mic
that they can retrofit on your headset that work better
with that intercom. You can still use the Oregon Aero
Mic Muffs, but the mic will be the fix. I had squelch
breaking (mostly in summer with vents on) last year
around OSH. I bought 4 muffs, and that didn't help.
Then, Joe got all 4 of my Mics swapped and I was able to
get by without the muff. With the kids in the back seat
they don't pay attention to airflows, so they can still
break squelch, so I may put the muffs on again just
because of them. You need to use one on each headset.
But, that info above should get you what you need for
a better fix.
PS, I think mic's with a -3 on the serial plate are the
ones affected.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Scott Schmidt wrote:
> I learned something today about my audio panel. When I fly with 4
> people in the RV-10 I get aircraft noise turning on the headset mic.
> I have the PS 8000B and I can tell that the auto-squelch is adjusting
> the squelch between the front seats then the back seats, then front
> seats and it is quite annoying. I read in the manual about purchasing
> new mic covers from Oregon Aero to help this issue and called them too.
> They said the new mic covers should fix the problem. You would think
> that Bose would make a descent mic cover for $1000.
>
> Anyway, if you experience the same issues you may want to look into
> this. The covers were $13 each.
> http://www.oregonaero.com/p62_2001.html#micmuff
>
> Scott Schmidt
> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kilopapa(at)antelecom.net |
Curtis,
See page 65 of the June issue of Sport Aviation and the
reply by Tech Counselor Sam Buchanan for another take on the
application of Part 91 to aircraft with Experimental
Operating Limitations.
Kevin
40494
>
>
>Should be no argument about part 91 applying to
>experimentals. ALL of FAR part 91 applies to experimentals
>, it's the part 23 that does not. As another message
>indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass panels,
>the steam gauges are primary and the EFIS are secondary.
>They must have good reason for doing this and unless one
>has data showing otherwise, I'd follow their model.
>
>William
>http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>-------- Original Message --------
>>
>> Hi Robin,
>>
>> FAR 91.205 says aircraft with standard airworthiness
>certificates need to have a "magnetic direction indicator"
>for both VFR and IFR flight. Although one might argue
>91.205 doesn't apply to experimental aircraft, the simple
>fact is that you will be at the mercy of the DAR who does
>your final inspection, and my guess is probably the
>majority of DARs will have the same expectation for
>homebuilts and standard aircraft, especially because most
>of us are building our -10's for a cross country mission
>profile that looks like what folks use Cessna's, Pipers and
>> Mooneys for.
>> So putting a whiskey (or equivalent vertical card)
>compass in the panel or somewhere in the pilot's sight
>sure seems prudent to me. (Forgot to mention I do have a
>wet compass in the panel in addition to all of the fine
>> electronic toys)
>> (Just got my EAA paperwork approving my application to be
>a Technical Counselor, so I need to be clear about when
>something is just an opinion vs. a real fact. This posting
>is just an opinion since I don't frankly know in detail how
>all of the regs on this particular issue reference one
>> another. So much to learn...)
>> -Dan Masys
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
Listers,
the time has come, and my whole workshop and airplane and on a Budget truck and
car hauler. I'm really dejected with having to have such a large break in building,
but I know on the other end with my new job I'll be able to work 3 months
straight on it when I'm not on a job. Not to mention that I also won't have
to share a hangar like I've been doing.
Anyway, John J and others who've gone before me in the buildus interruptus and
moving the shop to a new location please keep me in mind, especially while I'm
on the 7 hour drive tomorrow to make it safely and without Jessie's learning
experience of wearing a hole in a wing skin.
Lots of stops to check on things.
Rob Wright
#392
Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing.
http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald L Owen" <flywithowen(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flared fitting sealants AN8xx- |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bottom wing skin rivets |
| From: | "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com> |
I am finishing up the wings on my slow-build -10 wing kit. The instructions for
riveting on the bottom skins seem like it will be awkward, difficult to buck,
even harder to check, and ultimately of questionable quality. Vans recommends
the solid rivets for most of the skins (though the RV-12 uses mostly blind rivets)
but suggested that the MK-139-BS style blind rivets would be comparable.
Does anyone see any harm in using these flush blind rivets on the bottom skins
of the RV-10 wings? Aside from the cost ($80) it seems to me a better quality
and easier solution than the bucked rivets.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118534#118534
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald L Owen" <flywithowen(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | brake/fuel line fittings |
I just wanted to let people know that I have a product called E-Z turn.
They are in 2 oz. canisters. Plenty to do your RV fuel lines, oil lines
and hydrolic lines. I also have 1 lb. cans for those who would like a
life time supply. I will sale these at cost plus shipping. This
product is perfect for that extra added sealing. Aircraft Spruse also
carry's it. If anyone is interested in this product please let me know.
Thanks for the great forum
Ron Owen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing skin rivets |
Nah, it ain't that bad. After riveting a tailcone the wings aren't
too tough. It's much harder to drill out blind rivets in the
future too.
Tim
ddnebert wrote:
>
> I am finishing up the wings on my slow-build -10 wing kit. The instructions for
riveting on the bottom skins seem like it will be awkward, difficult to buck,
even harder to check, and ultimately of questionable quality. Vans recommends
the solid rivets for most of the skins (though the RV-12 uses mostly blind
rivets) but suggested that the MK-139-BS style blind rivets would be comparable.
>
> Does anyone see any harm in using these flush blind rivets on the bottom skins
of the RV-10 wings? Aside from the cost ($80) it seems to me a better quality
and easier solution than the bucked rivets.
>
> --------
> RV-10 Builder #40546
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118534#118534
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
I don't have Bose headsets and my PMA8000 does the same. I don't like that
the squelch is not pilot-controllable.
I think the real fix should be in the audio panel.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mic Noise
>
>
> Scott,
>
> You want to call Joe Tesini at Bose. 508-766-5998
> There is a long story to the Mic's but with the PMA8000
> and the Bose headsets the mic can be too hot for and break
> squelch too easily. They use a GenTex Mic on the original
> headsets, but they have one or two other versions of mic
> that they can retrofit on your headset that work better
> with that intercom. You can still use the Oregon Aero
> Mic Muffs, but the mic will be the fix. I had squelch
> breaking (mostly in summer with vents on) last year
> around OSH. I bought 4 muffs, and that didn't help.
> Then, Joe got all 4 of my Mics swapped and I was able to
> get by without the muff. With the kids in the back seat
> they don't pay attention to airflows, so they can still
> break squelch, so I may put the muffs on again just
> because of them. You need to use one on each headset.
>
> But, that info above should get you what you need for
> a better fix.
>
> PS, I think mic's with a -3 on the serial plate are the
> ones affected.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>> I learned something today about my audio panel. When I fly with 4 people
>> in the RV-10 I get aircraft noise turning on the headset mic. I have the
>> PS 8000B and I can tell that the auto-squelch is adjusting the squelch
>> between the front seats then the back seats, then front seats and it is
>> quite annoying. I read in the manual about purchasing new mic covers
>> from Oregon Aero to help this issue and called them too. They said the
>> new mic covers should fix the problem. You would think that Bose would
>> make a descent mic cover for $1000. Anyway, if you experience the same
>> issues you may want to look into this. The covers were $13 each.
>> http://www.oregonaero.com/p62_2001.html#micmuff
>> Scott Schmidt
>> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing skin rivets |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
I riveted the botom wing last monday and its takes a full day but it works. YOu
can check the quality of the rivets if you press the finger on the shop head
(the one you made) and compare the imprint on your finger with the gauge if you
cant reach in.
YOu might find yourself in a little arkward position when riveting the rear spar,
see picture.
Michael
http://www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118555#118555
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wings_04_3_147.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing skin rivets |
Agree with Tim. You can even do it all by yourself if you have long arms
and can master squeezing the gun with your thumb.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bottom wing skin rivets
>
>
> Nah, it ain't that bad. After riveting a tailcone the wings aren't
> too tough. It's much harder to drill out blind rivets in the
> future too.
> Tim
>
>
> ddnebert wrote:
>>
>> I am finishing up the wings on my slow-build -10 wing kit. The
>> instructions for riveting on the bottom skins seem like it will be
>> awkward, difficult to buck, even harder to check, and ultimately of
>> questionable quality. Vans recommends the solid rivets for most of the
>> skins (though the RV-12 uses mostly blind rivets) but suggested that the
>> MK-139-BS style blind rivets would be comparable. Does anyone see any
>> harm in using these flush blind rivets on the bottom skins of the RV-10
>> wings? Aside from the cost ($80) it seems to me a better quality and
>> easier solution than the bucked rivets.
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 Builder #40546
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118534#118534
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
Rob,
Just remember to take your time and secure everything down twice as good
as you think is needed. My buddy went through a whole med size box of 3" d
rywall screws securing my HS, wings, and fuselage in a 26' Penske truck for
our 19 hour and 1200 mile drive from TX to WI. If the truck has a wood fl
oor don't be afraid to use nails, screws, or whatever to hold things in pla
ce, they won't even notice. I left my wings in the cradles I made with a l
ittle extra padding everywhere. You can't have enough moving blankets. I
managed to get my project all the way up here with no damage in a single 26
' truckload, the workshop however was a whole truck full in itself. ;-) A
s you have seen from others, don't expect to restart building right away.
My hiatus is turning out to be at least a year.
Best of luck,
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Wright
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 8:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: packed up
Listers,
the time has come, and my whole workshop and airplane and on a Budget truck
and car hauler. I'm really dejected with having to have such a large brea
k in building, but I know on the other end with my new job I'll be able to
work 3 months straight on it when I'm not on a job. Not to mention that I
also won't have to share a hangar like I've been doing.
Anyway, John J and others who've gone before me in the buildus interruptus
and moving the shop to a new location please keep me in mind, especially wh
ile I'm on the 7 hour drive tomorrow to make it safely and without Jessie's
learning experience of wearing a hole in a wing skin.
Lots of stops to check on things.
Rob Wright
#392
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Bottom wing skin rivets |
Yep, I second that. It sucks sometimes but can be done. The only help I have
had on the entire kit were a couple items that just can't be done by yourself
like riveting the tail and fuse, part of the upper deck, and a couple of other
spots a guy with ape arms like me just couldn't reach. I did the wings completely
alone.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Limbo
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bottom wing skin rivets
Agree with Tim. You can even do it all by yourself if you have long arms
and can master squeezing the gun with your thumb.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Bottom wing skin rivets
>
>
> Nah, it ain't that bad. After riveting a tailcone the wings aren't
> too tough. It's much harder to drill out blind rivets in the
> future too.
> Tim
>
>
> ddnebert wrote:
>>
>> I am finishing up the wings on my slow-build -10 wing kit. The
>> instructions for riveting on the bottom skins seem like it will be
>> awkward, difficult to buck, even harder to check, and ultimately of
>> questionable quality. Vans recommends the solid rivets for most of the
>> skins (though the RV-12 uses mostly blind rivets) but suggested that the
>> MK-139-BS style blind rivets would be comparable. Does anyone see any
>> harm in using these flush blind rivets on the bottom skins of the RV-10
>> wings? Aside from the cost ($80) it seems to me a better quality and
>> easier solution than the bucked rivets.
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 Builder #40546
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118534#118534
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Bottom wing skin rivets |
It's not that bad if you have patience and one of those telescoping inspection
mirrors. I ended up with a few oops spots when the bar slipped, but it is the
bottom skin and I'll anyone found loitering there with a crucial eye will get a
swift kick in the butt! I'd keep going and save the $80 for a Bob Archer
antenna.
Jay
Slow building and loving it?
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
Give PS Engineering a call and see if they have a solution for your headset / intercom
problem. For awhile I really thought it was just the air in the back
that would hit their face since the vent is located fairly high in relation to
the headset. But finally, the other day I had everyone close their vent and
found that it basically cycled through the headsets.
With just two of us it works perfect. I agree that it would be nice to have at
least the option to manually control the audio panel in situations where there
is lots of air flowing into the aircraft. Sometimes I do laugh at the things
we complain about...... Our noise canceling Bose headsets are being activated
because the auto-squelch feature of the audio panel in our 200 mph aircraft
is not properly functioning. It was disrupting my passengers as they were trying
to watch a DVD movie, The Breakfast Club, on our 1 hour flight from Idaho
Falls last Tuesday that would have taken 3.5 hours in the car. What next, my
in-cockpit weather system is going to act up and stop displaying Nexrad information???
PS Engineering phone number
(865) 988-9800
Scott Schmidt
scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
----- Original Message ----
From: DejaVu <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 9:16:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mic Noise
I don't have Bose headsets and my PMA8000 does the same. I don't like that
the squelch is not pilot-controllable.
I think the real fix should be in the audio panel.
Anh
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 4:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Mic Noise
>
>
> Scott,
>
> You want to call Joe Tesini at Bose. 508-766-5998
> There is a long story to the Mic's but with the PMA8000
> and the Bose headsets the mic can be too hot for and break
> squelch too easily. They use a GenTex Mic on the original
> headsets, but they have one or two other versions of mic
> that they can retrofit on your headset that work better
> with that intercom. You can still use the Oregon Aero
> Mic Muffs, but the mic will be the fix. I had squelch
> breaking (mostly in summer with vents on) last year
> around OSH. I bought 4 muffs, and that didn't help.
> Then, Joe got all 4 of my Mics swapped and I was able to
> get by without the muff. With the kids in the back seat
> they don't pay attention to airflows, so they can still
> break squelch, so I may put the muffs on again just
> because of them. You need to use one on each headset.
>
> But, that info above should get you what you need for
> a better fix.
>
> PS, I think mic's with a -3 on the serial plate are the
> ones affected.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Scott Schmidt wrote:
>> I learned something today about my audio panel. When I fly with 4 people
>> in the RV-10 I get aircraft noise turning on the headset mic. I have the
>> PS 8000B and I can tell that the auto-squelch is adjusting the squelch
>> between the front seats then the back seats, then front seats and it is
>> quite annoying. I read in the manual about purchasing new mic covers
>> from Oregon Aero to help this issue and called them too. They said the
>> new mic covers should fix the problem. You would think that Bose would
>> make a descent mic cover for $1000. Anyway, if you experience the same
>> issues you may want to look into this. The covers were $13 each.
>> http://www.oregonaero.com/p62_2001.html#micmuff
>> Scott Schmidt
>> scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing skin rivets |
| From: | "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com> |
According to my EAA Tech Counselor:
"Per the FAA and my IA rating, you can only substitute a
CherryMax rivet or equivalent for a solid rivet in -4 and larger size.
Note that they run about $.50 each and have a steel core, so special
corrosion protection is appropriate. You can also substitute a machine
screw and lock nut.
In the -3 size I don't of any blind rivets that are "structural"
and readily available."
Well, I've got skinny arms and will give it a try.
I could use recommendations: Do I need to install an Aileron trim servo? I was
planning to put in a roll-axis AP anyway...
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118611#118611
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
FAR Part 91 -General operating and Flight rules; this deals with operation of personal
aircraft in the airspace system and since there is no "experimental" airspace,
I'm not sure how it would NOT apply to experimentals. I have to read
the article to see what his take on it is.
One has only to look at FAR 91.1 & 91.101 - Applicability, to determine that ALL
except balloons & rockets (part 101) and ultralights (part 103) are covered
by it.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> Curtis,
>
> See page 65 of the June issue of Sport Aviation and the
> reply by Tech Counselor Sam Buchanan for another take on the
> application of Part 91 to aircraft with Experimental
> Operating Limitations.
>
> Kevin
> 40494
>
>
> >
> >
> >Should be no argument about part 91 applying to
> >experimentals. ALL of FAR part 91 applies to experimentals
> >, it's the part 23 that does not. As another message
> >indicated, for the certified aircraft with glass panels,
> >the steam gauges are primary and the EFIS are secondary.
> >They must have good reason for doing this and unless one
> >has data showing otherwise, I'd follow their model.
> >
> >William
> >http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
> >
> >-------- Original Message --------
> >>
> >> Hi Robin,
> >>
> >> FAR 91.205 says aircraft with standard airworthiness
> >certificates need to have a "magnetic direction indicator"
> >for both VFR and IFR flight. Although one might argue
> >91.205 doesn't apply to experimental aircraft, the simple
> >fact is that you will be at the mercy of the DAR who does
> >your final inspection, and my guess is probably the
> >majority of DARs will have the same expectation for
> >homebuilts and standard aircraft, especially because most
> >of us are building our -10's for a cross country mission
> >profile that looks like what folks use Cessna's, Pipers and
> >> Mooneys for.
> >> So putting a whiskey (or equivalent vertical card)
> >compass in the panel or somewhere in the pilot's sight
> >sure seems prudent to me. (Forgot to mention I do have a
> >wet compass in the panel in addition to all of the fine
> >> electronic toys)
> >> (Just got my EAA paperwork approving my application to be
> >a Technical Counselor, so I need to be clear about when
> >something is just an opinion vs. a real fact. This posting
> >is just an opinion since I don't frankly know in detail how
> >all of the regs on this particular issue reference one
> >> another. So much to learn...)
> >> -Dan Masys
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Masys <dmasys(at)cox.net> |
I think it was my post to blame for getting this started. The reason I mentioned
the question about applicability is that the FAR section on instruments (91.205)
is entitled:
"Powered civil aircraft with **standard category US airworthiness certificates**:
[emphasis added] Instrument and equipment requirements."
You be the judge, pay your money and take your chances with the DAR...
-Dan Masys
#40448
---- William Curtis wrote:
>
> FAR Part 91 -General operating and Flight rules; this deals with operation of
personal aircraft in the airspace system and since there is no "experimental"
airspace, I'm not sure how it would NOT apply to experimentals. I have to read
the article to see what his take on it is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jason J. Ellingson" <jason(at)ellingson.com> |
When I asked this, I was given:
FAA Order 8130.2F (AIRWORTHINESS CERTIFICATION OF AIRCRAFT AND RELATED
PRODUCTS)
This is what they use to issue Experimental Airworthiness
certificates...
All over it... Whether LSA experimental, Standard Experimental, R&D,
de-militarized, or whatever... Unless you are still in phase I of test
flight, or have an approved exception, you must equip your plane by FAR
19.205 standards for VFR or IFR (whichever you intend to do).
- Jason (thinking about building an RV-10... Own an Ercoupe right now)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Wet Compass
I think it was my post to blame for getting this started. The reason I
mentioned the question about applicability is that the FAR section on
instruments (91.205) is entitled:
"Powered civil aircraft with **standard category US airworthiness
certificates**: [emphasis added] Instrument and equipment
requirements."
You be the judge, pay your money and take your chances with the DAR...
-Dan Masys
#40448
---- William Curtis wrote:
>
> FAR Part 91 -General operating and Flight rules; this deals with
operation of personal aircraft in the airspace system and since there is
no "experimental" airspace, I'm not sure how it would NOT apply to
experimentals. I have to read the article to see what his take on it
is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | tank fitting sealer |
What is everyone using to seal the threads of the fittings in the fuel
tanks? Pro-seal? When sealing up the senders, do you smear the stuff
on the gasket surfaces as well as the screws and flanges?
Dave Leikam
40496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
Hope this sizes correctly. AN torque values at the bottom of attachment and
also on page 9-19 of AC 43.
ON page 7-8 and 7-9 of AC 43 (Acceptable Methods and Techniques) it gives
the conversion formulas. Very easy to set up in a spreadsheet.
Shows Crows foot wrench as a "Short Open End Adapter" on pat 7-8
Crows foot wrenches from Sears and adjust for about 1 & 1/2 inch offset.
Actually should have the conversion formulas in the instructions with your
Torque Wrench.
Hope this helps
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 10:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
-->
A set of crows foot wrenches will enable you to do this.
Dan
N289DT RV10E E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
I recently bought a torque wrench for sockets. I don't see how it would
work on a line fitting. Does this require a different type of torque
wrench?
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com wrote:
> I think the torque values are listed in my copy of Standard Aircraft
> Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians. I don't have access to it
> right now so I can't tell you what it says.
>
> I used those values and ended up with some leaks so I tightened them
> "Just tight enough that it won't leak" and then started the practice
> of "Just snug it up and check for leaks". With further experience with
> a particularly annoying brake line leak, I found "tightening and
> loosening the nut several times before torquing it helped to achieve a
> tight seal". So there is one more comment to add to the list.
>
> -Jim
> 40134
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dan,
I actually think I started this discussion as my panel will have dual independent
EFIS and three sets of batteries. Why would I need a wet compass? Seems from
my reading of the discussion the DAR has final say on certification but the
FAR seems to require one. I figure I will put one in (my only round instrument
on the panel) and live it and call it my Back Up to the third power. No reason
to give an insurance company a reason to deny a claim.
William
Speaking of balloons & rockets (part 101) and ultralights, I was flying my usual
commute today (SBP-BUR-SBP) and came across a large bouquet of balloons at
6,200'. Another one at 6,800' and one more on my return trip at 4,000. Seems graduation
is in full swing.
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 1:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Wet Compass
I think it was my post to blame for getting this started. The reason I mentioned
the question about applicability is that the FAR section on instruments (91.205)
is entitled:
"Powered civil aircraft with **standard category US airworthiness certificates**:
[emphasis added] Instrument and equipment requirements."
You be the judge, pay your money and take your chances with the DAR...
-Dan Masys
#40448
---- William Curtis wrote:
>
> FAR Part 91 -General operating and Flight rules; this deals with operation of
personal aircraft in the airspace system and since there is no "experimental"
airspace, I'm not sure how it would NOT apply to experimentals. I have to read
the article to see what his take on it is.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tank fitting sealer |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
DAve,
I used Proseal for the fuel sender but not on the screws. I did presure test it
and it works fine.
I still have a tiny leak somewhere but not at the fuel senders.
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118699#118699
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remove QB tanks to test? |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Dave,
I removed one tank in order to install the stall warning. It isnt a big deal, however
be carful unscrewing the tank screws on the skin because the are quite
soft and I had to drill one out.
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (wings)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118700#118700
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
That really helps. Thanks for taking the time to scan.
Bill "still prepping for closing up the bottom wing skins" Watson
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> Hope this sizes correctly. AN torque values at the bottom of attachment and
> also on page 9-19 of AC 43.
>
> ON page 7-8 and 7-9 of AC 43 (Acceptable Methods and Techniques) it gives
> the conversion formulas. Very easy to set up in a spreadsheet.
>
> Shows Crows foot wrench as a "Short Open End Adapter" on pat 7-8
>
> Crows foot wrenches from Sears and adjust for about 1 & 1/2 inch offset.
>
> Actually should have the conversion formulas in the instructions with your
> Torque Wrench.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
> Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 10:06 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
>
> -->
>
> A set of crows foot wrenches will enable you to do this.
> Dan
> N289DT RV10E E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
> Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:32 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
>
>
> I recently bought a torque wrench for sockets. I don't see how it would
>
> work on a line fitting. Does this require a different type of torque
> wrench?
>
> JSMcGrew(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>> I think the torque values are listed in my copy of Standard Aircraft
>> Handbook for Mechanics and Technicians. I don't have access to it
>> right now so I can't tell you what it says.
>>
>> I used those values and ended up with some leaks so I tightened them
>> "Just tight enough that it won't leak" and then started the practice
>> of "Just snug it up and check for leaks". With further experience with
>>
>
>
>> a particularly annoying brake line leak, I found "tightening and
>> loosening the nut several times before torquing it helped to achieve a
>>
>
>
>> tight seal". So there is one more comment to add to the list.
>>
>> -Jim
>> 40134
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
If you've got some precision machining equipment and skills, flat is
better, elsewise I think you'll end with a combination approach. i.e.
it's best if you can have a mated surface between the windscreen and the
upper fuse. However, for those, like me, who lack the
skills/patience/knowledge... fill in the blank.... it was necessary to
trowel in some flox to fill the voids.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2045%20Cabin%20Doors%20and%20Transparancies/slides/DSC04378.html
Deems Davis # 406
Baffling / Plenum / Engine Stuff
http://deemsrv10.com/
Cal Hoffman wrote:
> What is the proper technique for the bottom edge of the windshield:
> taper it so that the edge sits flat against the forward fuse or leave
> it at 90 deg to the windshield surface and let it fill in with
> fiberglas or filler??
>
> Cal Hoffman
> 40119 - obviously windshield install
> *=============================
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | RV flyin BOONE, IA |
Just a brief note on the RV flyin at Boone, IA today. I left KAUH at 7
AM with a fellow builder for KPMV to pick up Bruce Bluhm and Bob
Condrey (a full plane). We arrived at KBNW at 9:00AM and got a FRONT
row seat for the ONLY RV-10 at the show. All you other guys were
either in Canada, Niagra Falls, (TIM O) or too busy. Anyway, Adrian
Moses lead a forum on the RV 10 with BOB C. doing a talk on the kit and
options. It was a great day........little warm and muggy but that is
IOWA. We left at 12:05 and were home in GI, NE at 2 pm. I am now
meeting several fliers at KEAR at 6:30pm for Dinner then we will fly
home. I flew 1 hr 45 min to Boone and burned 22.5 gals. I flew 2
hours going home and burned 25.6 Gals. I love this plane. Gotta go
TO for KEAR.
Dean Sombke
N805HL
_____________________________________________________________
Click to find local singles for dating, romance and fun
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?u=http://tagline.untd.us/fc/CAaCX09ymrVmb129rHgC8UuZaPB9jv1V/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | 'Splain it to me, Lucy - Riveting bottom fuse skins |
Hi
I am working on the bottom fuse skins which use all flush rivets. However,
on page 2607, step 3 the holes that match the tabs on the F1034a & F1005a
are not to be dimpled. The plans don't say that these holes are to be
counter sunk which seem to be the only alternative.
Am I missing something? Is this a test? Have I passed?
Cheers
Les
Lost in the fuse
#40643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am trying to install my rudder pedels WD1006R/L and find that the F1039A Rudder
pedal bearing blocks fit very tight restricting the movement of the pedals
which I feel should move quite freely. I have tried to work the uncoated ends
of the pedels down with a die grinder and some rubbing compound, but have not
been sucessful in getting them loose so that the pedals float freely as they hang.
I am very reluctant to try gringing into the delrin/nylon blocks as I am
afraid of leaving abrasive material behind that would make the tighness even worse.
Please give me some suggestions
See you in OSH - hope to meet some of the folks on the list
[/b]
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118776#118776
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dean Van Winkle" <dvanwinkle(at)royell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right |
Mike
I found the same problem in my RV-9A. I finally used a sharp utility knife
to carefully shave out a little excess material in the blocks to slightly
increase the hole diameter.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fus/Finish/FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 6:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder Pedal Bearing Blocks - Too tight ain't right
>
> I am trying to install my rudder pedels WD1006R/L and find that the F1039A
> Rudder pedal bearing blocks fit very tight restricting the movement of the
> pedals which I feel should move quite freely. I have tried to work the
> uncoated ends of the pedels down with a die grinder and some rubbing
> compound, but have not been sucessful in getting them loose so that the
> pedals float freely as they hang. I am very reluctant to try gringing into
> the delrin/nylon blocks as I am afraid of leaving abrasive material behind
> that would make the tighness even worse.
>
> Please give me some suggestions
>
> See you in OSH - hope to meet some of the folks on the list
> [/b]
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=118776#118776
>
>
>
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Imron paint prep question |
| From: | Andy Marshall <Andy.Marshall(at)ni.com> |
Hello,
My sister, the artist, has been asked to paint on top of Imron, and wants
to know:
1. Sand the imron surface or use a chemical etch.
2. Compatible surface paint (will "one shot" or lettering enamel work).
3. What topcoat should be used.
To give you an idea of the artwork she does, feel free to check out
www.tourdefarms.com
Thanks all for your help,
Andy Marshall
National Instruments
319 443 3950 (sent from Blackberry)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | brake / fuel line fittings nut torque |
I just noticed on the scan that I had highlighted the fine and coarse thread
torque tables and the highlight covered up the fine and coarse headings.
Fine thread torque values at the top, coarse in the middle, there is a big
difference. The AN tubing torque values are on the bottom.
Glad it helped but the best thing to do is get a copy of the AC 43. It's
cheap from Avery or Spruce.
Bill S
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of MauleDriver
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 7:23 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: brake / fuel line fittings nut torque
That really helps. Thanks for taking the time to scan.
Bill "still prepping for closing up the bottom wing skins" Watson
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
> Hope this sizes correctly. AN torque values at the bottom of
> attachment and also on page 9-19 of AC 43.
>
> ON page 7-8 and 7-9 of AC 43 (Acceptable Methods and Techniques) it
> gives the conversion formulas. Very easy to set up in a spreadsheet.
>
> Shows Crows foot wrench as a "Short Open End Adapter" on pat 7-8
>
May 31, 2007 - June 16, 2007
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cj