RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cq
October 08, 2007 - October 20, 2007
805HL 110.4 hours RV10 4 Sale
_____________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: instrument selection |
In a message dated 10/8/2007 1:06:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
billderou(at)yahoo.com writes:
We enjoy this new capability at an affordable price because the FAA carved
out space for an experimental movement. Very ballsey for a group of government
folks.
Bill, I'm glad you feel this way but the FAA did not carve out
experimental...it was faught for by what became the EAA and its members etc over
the
objections of many in the FAA as we know it today...the FAA did not exist as we
know
it today when experimental became a reality...so please reserve you credit to
the people that made this happen and not to those whom objected to your
rights...
P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
In preparing for an upcoming Iraq deployment I am trying to make my panel decisions
so it can be built while I am gone and ready to be installed by the time
I get home. I was really leaning towards OP tech, especially after having a conversation
with Deems. Now with the sale to Aerosonic I have some concerns about
future experimental support.
I am looking at a solid IFR system with:
Dual screen EFIS
Tru Track Sorcerer/RV10 AP
WAAS capable GPS capable of GPSS and approach
Dual Nav
Dual Com
Traffic and weather capable
Terrain
One of the coms and the standby instruments I intend on tying to an essential buss
tied to the battery.
BMA has promise except they have a fairly basic autopilot and I have heard that
it doesn't integrate well with other autopilots. however this is not confirmed
so don't take my word.
I have been looking at Aspen avionics as well, anyone have any experience with
them or any information not provided on their website.
I am all ears and looking for individual experiences about your panels and why
you chose your systems so that I can make my own informed decision...without starting
a newer version of primer wars!
Also...anyone know of a place to get locks for the baggage door and fuse doors
(3 locks instead of the 2 offered by Vans and Aircraft Spruce) that are also keyed
to the starter switch?
Eric Kallio
40518
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138830#138830
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall & bottom skin Pro-Seal |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
Thanks for the comments. I suspected it was to seal the cabin from gases and that
the normal pro-seal would work. I hate opening a full High Temp Pro-Seal
just for this.
Tomorrow evening is our EAA local chapter meeting and I am going to ask this of
the 2 tech councilors that normally attend. I need to confirm something one
of them said some time ago about RED RTV. I am going to ask about using the
RED RTV as the sealant in this case. It is cheaper, no mixing and no waist. :D
Any one see a problem with this in this specific use?
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138837#138837
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel choices |
Eric,
You pretty much described my panel, dual AFS-3500, MX-20, GTX330, SL-30, GNS-480,
RV-10 AP, PMA 8000, MC 2.25 CDI, Backup AS & ALT, GDL-69A. Accuracy built mine,
I am very happy with them. I get no perks for recommending them. They did
what they said they would do for the costthey quoted me and delivered it when
they said.
FWIW, I was on the fence with OP tech also, from all the correspondence they seem
to still planning on supporting the Experimental market.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 1:38:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Panel choices
In preparing for an upcoming Iraq deployment I am trying to make my panel decisions
so it can be built while I am gone and ready to be installed by the time
I get home. I was really leaning towards OP tech, especially after having a conversation
with Deems. Now with the sale to Aerosonic I have some concerns about
future experimental support.
I am looking at a solid IFR system with:
Dual screen EFIS
Tru Track Sorcerer/RV10 AP
WAAS capable GPS capable of GPSS and approach
Dual Nav
Dual Com
Traffic and weather capable
Terrain
One of the coms and the standby instruments I intend on tying to an essential buss
tied to the battery.
BMA has promise except they have a fairly basic autopilot and I have heard that
it doesn't integrate well with other autopilots. however this is not confirmed
so don't take my word.
I have been looking at Aspen avionics as well, anyone have any experience with
them or any information not provided on their website.
I am all ears and looking for individual experiences about your panels and why
you chose your systems so that I can make my own informed decision...without starting
a newer version of primer wars!
Also...anyone know of a place to get locks for the baggage door and fuse doors
(3 locks instead of the 2 offered by Vans and Aircraft Spruce) that are also keyed
to the starter switch?
Eric Kallio
40518
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138830#138830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
Rick got any pictures?
Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Panel choices
Eric,
You pretty much described my panel, dual AFS-3500, MX-20, GTX330, SL-30,
GNS-480, RV-10 AP, PMA 8000, MC 2.25 CDI, Backup AS & ALT, GDL-69A. Accuracy
built mine, I am very happy with them. I get no perks for recommending them.
They did what they said they would do for the costthey quoted me and
delivered it when they said.
FWIW, I was on the fence with OP tech also, from all the correspondence they
seem to still planning on supporting the Experimental market.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 1:38:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Panel choices
In preparing for an upcoming Iraq deployment I am trying to make my panel
decisions so it can be built while I am gone and ready to be installed by
the time I get home. I was really leaning towards OP tech, especially after
having a conversation with Deems. Now with the sale to Aerosonic I have some
concerns about future experimental support.
I am looking at a solid IFR system with:
Dual screen EFIS
Tru Track Sorcerer/RV10 AP
WAAS capable GPS capable of GPSS and approach
Dual Nav
Dual Com
Traffic and weather capable
Terrain
One of the coms and the standby instruments I intend on tying to an
essential buss tied to the battery.
BMA has promise except they have a fairly basic autopilot and I have heard
that it doesn't integrate well with other autopilots. however this is not
confirmed so don't take my word.
I have been looking at Aspen avionics as well, anyone have any experience
with them or any information not provided on their website.
I am all ears and looking for individual experiences about your panels and
why you chose your systems so that I can make my own informed
decision...without starting a newer version of primer wars!
Also...anyone know of a place to get locks for the baggage door and fuse
doors (3 locks instead of the 2 offered by Vans and Aircraft Spruce) that
are also keyed to the starter switch?
Eric Kallio
40518
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138830#138830
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Schmidt <scottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel choices |
See below, but it sounds like you want Cheltons. They do everything you men
tioned. If you haven't flown behind them yet. Find someone that has them
and get a ride. =0AWhere are you located? The only thing I would add would
be some small backup gauges. airspeed, altimeter, and trutrack AH/turn co
ordinator. =0A =0AScott Schmidt=0Ascottmschmidt(at)yahoo.com=0A=0A----- Origin
al Message ----=0AFrom: Eric_Kallio <scout019(at)msn.com>=0ATo: rv10-list@matr
onics.com=0ASent: Monday, October 8, 2007 2:38:54 PM=0ASubject: RV10-List:
@msn.com>=0A=0AIn preparing for an upcoming Iraq deployment I am trying to
make my panel decisions so it can be built while I am gone and ready to be
installed by the time I get home. I was really leaning towards OP tech, esp
ecially after having a conversation with Deems. Now with the sale to Aeroso
nic I have some concerns about future experimental support. =0A=0AI am look
ing at a solid IFR system with:=0ADual screen EFIS - Cheltons=0ATru Tra
ck Sorcerer/RV10 AP - Works perfect with it. =0AWAAS capable GPS capabl
e of GPSS and approach - Chelton can do this. =0ADual Nav - Buy the WAAS 43
0 and SL-30. Links with Chelton and the autopilot=0ADual Com=0ATraffic and
weather capable - 330 transponder and the Chelton's have weather, or just
add a 496. =0ATerrain =0A=0AOne of the coms and the standby instruments I
intend on tying to an essential buss tied to the battery.=0A=0ABMA has prom
ise except they have a fairly basic autopilot and I have heard that it does
n't integrate well with other autopilots. however this is not confirmed so
don't take my word.=0A=0AI have been looking at Aspen avionics as well, any
one have any experience with them or any information not provided on their
website.=0A=0AI am all ears and looking for individual experiences about yo
ur panels and why you chose your systems so that I can make my own informed
decision...without starting a newer version of primer wars!=0A=0AAlso...an
yone know of a place to get locks for the baggage door and fuse doors (3 lo
cks instead of the 2 offered by Vans and Aircraft Spruce) that are also key
ed to the starter switch? =0A=0AEric Kallio=0A40518=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead thi
s topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138
==========0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson - Home <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | Another RV-10 in the air |
Hi All,
Very pleased to report RV-10 C-FMHP flew it's first flight this afternoon.
Couple snags including a light turn to the left at cruise and a transponder not
reporting altitude
but overall seems to be a great airplane.
Keep smashing those rivets, it's well worth it!
Perry Casson
RV-10 C-FMHP - TTSN 42 min.
Regina, Canada
http://casson.2y.net/rv-10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Another RV-10 in the air |
Perry,
Congratulations!!! I know you are elated over your accomplishment.
On the left turn, before you get too excited about tweaking anything, if
it's very light it could be that it's you causing it and not the airplane if
you have equal fuel in both tanks. If I'm not using the autopilot I am very
sensitive to which tank I burn out of for roll trim and I start with the
left side if solo. Just a consideration of course it could be something
else.
On the transponder, if you have a Garmin 327 I had some issues as well and
was told by the folks at Stein where I bought it the pin in the back that
transfers the altitude data to the XPDR is finicky to say the least. Others
haven't had an issue but getting the pins seated properly might help.
Best of luck with the test hours,
Marcus
40286 - 200 hrs and the bird is finally getting painted.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry Casson -
Home
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 6:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 in the air
Hi All,
Very pleased to report RV-10 C-FMHP flew it's first flight this afternoon.
Couple snags including a light turn to the left at cruise and a transponder
not reporting altitude but overall seems to be a great airplane.
Keep smashing those rivets, it's well worth it!
Perry Casson
RV-10 C-FMHP - TTSN 42 min.
Regina, Canada
http://casson.2y.net/rv-10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Another RV-10 in the air |
Congrats..where are the pictures? I want to see the smile.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Perry Casson -
Home
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 5:00 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Another RV-10 in the air
Hi All,
Very pleased to report RV-10 C-FMHP flew it's first flight this afternoon.
Couple snags including a light turn to the left at cruise and a transponder
not reporting altitude but overall seems to be a great airplane.
Keep smashing those rivets, it's well worth it!
Perry Casson
RV-10 C-FMHP - TTSN 42 min.
Regina, Canada
http://casson.2y.net/rv-10
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel choices |
Heres one prior to install, installed ones were too blurry, need a better camera,
can't afford one now ;)
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 3:18:08 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Panel choices
Rick got any pictures?
Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Panel choices
Eric,
You pretty much described my panel, dual AFS-3500, MX-20, GTX330, SL-30,
GNS-480, RV-10 AP, PMA 8000, MC 2.25 CDI, Backup AS & ALT, GDL-69A. Accuracy
built mine, I am very happy with them. I get no perks for recommending them.
They did what they said they would do for the costthey quoted me and
delivered it when they said.
FWIW, I was on the fence with OP tech also, from all the correspondence they
seem to still planning on supporting the Experimental market.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 1:38:54 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Panel choices
In preparing for an upcoming Iraq deployment I am trying to make my panel
decisions so it can be built while I am gone and ready to be installed by
the time I get home. I was really leaning towards OP tech, especially after
having a conversation with Deems. Now with the sale to Aerosonic I have some
concerns about future experimental support.
I am looking at a solid IFR system with:
Dual screen EFIS
Tru Track Sorcerer/RV10 AP
WAAS capable GPS capable of GPSS and approach
Dual Nav
Dual Com
Traffic and weather capable
Terrain
One of the coms and the standby instruments I intend on tying to an
essential buss tied to the battery.
BMA has promise except they have a fairly basic autopilot and I have heard
that it doesn't integrate well with other autopilots. however this is not
confirmed so don't take my word.
I have been looking at Aspen avionics as well, anyone have any experience
with them or any information not provided on their website.
I am all ears and looking for individual experiences about your panels and
why you chose your systems so that I can make my own informed
decision...without starting a newer version of primer wars!
Also...anyone know of a place to get locks for the baggage door and fuse
doors (3 locks instead of the 2 offered by Vans and Aircraft Spruce) that
are also keyed to the starter switch?
Eric Kallio
40518
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138830#138830
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Angle of Attach Indicator |
| From: | "whd721" <whd721(at)msn.com> |
I would like comments from current users of any AOA system.
The Dynon has a indicator on the screen.
The AOA Pro has a large LCD indicator on the panel.
The AOA Sport has a LED indicator on the panel.
The LRI has a needle indicator on the Gauge.
I have used the LRI and find the needle difficult to see in the last 20' before
touchdown ( altitude, drift, gusts and center line come first). It works as
advertised in flight, but I, for one, am focused outside during landing and never
on the LRI. My old Stall vane with the red light works with peripheral vision.
Do the other Brands work with your peripheral vision and allow an awarness of the
indicated AOA during flare? Where did you locate the indicator?
Thanks for any input.
--------
whd721
RV9A
Beaverton, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138871#138871
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Indicator |
I placed my AOA Sport LED indicator on top of the glareshield. It is in my
field of view while I'm on final. This is a similar setup to the T-38, which I
found worked very well.
-Jim
40134
In a message dated 10/8/2007 8:07:52 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
whd721(at)msn.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "whd721"
I would like comments from current users of any AOA system.
The Dynon has a indicator on the screen.
The AOA Pro has a large LCD indicator on the panel.
The AOA Sport has a LED indicator on the panel.
The LRI has a needle indicator on the Gauge.
I have used the LRI and find the needle difficult to see in the last 20'
before touchdown ( altitude, drift, gusts and center line come first). It works
as advertised in flight, but I, for one, am focused outside during landing
and never on the LRI. My old Stall vane with the red light works with
peripheral vision.
Do the other Brands work with your peripheral vision and allow an awarness
of the indicated AOA during flare? Where did you locate the indicator?
Thanks for any input.
--------
whd721
RV9A
Beaverton, OR
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Horizon 1 to SL wiring |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
For those with GRTs and SL-30 installed, I discovered this during my
final wiring check:
Reference "EFIS Horizon Cable Description (Triple Display Unit EFIS
Single AHRS)" Display Unit 1 - Connector A Description
Pin 2 definition states "Serial Out 1 - Spare - Also connects to
expansion port for ARINC 429 or internal GPS (Available if expansion
port NOT used)"
Pin 20 definition for Serial In 1 is the same.
I have the ARINC 429 Module connected. The pins 2 and 20 definitions
above imply that Serial In/Out 1 are therefore NOT available to me -
they are used to interface to the ARINC Module.
WD-1001-05 specifies the wiring interconnect to the SL30 and indicates
that Pins 2 and 20 connect to the SL-30 WITH the ARINC module installed.
Can't imagine that Serial port 1 drives BOTH the ARINC Module and SL30.
Where is the error, or what am I missing?
Cheers,
Ron
187 still trying to finish
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson - Home <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | Another RV-10 in the air |
>CONGRATULATIONS! I would also like to see pictures, as would most of the other
people on the list
I'm sure. Enjoy it.
[Perry Casson]
Didn't want to waste bandwidth attaching a photo, the following link takes you
to a little web site
that has about 150 of them
http://casson.2y.net/rv-10
>Congrats..where are the pictures? I want to see the smile.
Sorry no rv grin shot, the ground crew got bored waiting for me to land and went
flying themselves
it was such a perfect fall day.
Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Angler was Another RV-10 in the air |
Perry tell us about the flap angle sticker. How did you make it?
see it here:
<http://casson.2y.net/yappa-ng/index.php?album=%2FRV-10%2F&image=Pictures_028.jpg>
Larry Rosen
RV10 #356
Perry Casson - Home wrote:
>
> >CONGRATULATIONS! I would also like to see pictures, as would most of
> the other people on the list Im sure. Enjoy it.
>
> */ /*
>
> */[Perry Casson]/*
>
> */Didnt want to waste bandwidth attaching a photo, the following link
> takes you to a little web site that has about 150 of them /*
>
> */http://casson.2y.net/rv-10/*
>
> */ /*
>
> */>/*Congratswhere are the pictures? I want to see the smile
>
> */ /*
>
> */Sorry no rv grin shot, the ground crew got bored waiting for me to
> land and went flying themselves it was such a perfect fall day./*
>
> */ /*
>
> */Perry/*
>
> */ /*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Perry Casson - Home <pcasson(at)sasktel.net> |
| Subject: | Flap Angler was Another RV-10 in the air |
Perry tell us about the flap angle sticker. How did you make it?
see it here:
<http://casson.2y.net/yappa-ng/index.php?album=%2FRV-10%2F&image=Pictures_028.jpg>
Larry Rosen
RV10 #356
[Perry Casson]
I can take no credit for it, a buddy of mine and I had discussed some kind of marks
on the flaps to
see the angle and he took it from there. He got a protractor out took some measurements
and took it
to a local stripe shop to cut stickers. I'll probably hook up a Mac position sensor
to a Dynon D120
input so I'll have something that will be readable at night but for day use this
is a great
solution.
Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Problems |
I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
Anybody have any ideas?
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Positioning System Problems |
Rene,
Sounds like your wired wrong. I know, no sh*t. The FPS is gounded with the flap
motor gets constant power from the buss then switched power from the switch to
either up, which will continue to raise until the limit is reached and the motor
will stop or down, where the motor will stop at the three predetermined points.
Double check to make sure your not feeding constant power into the up or
down leads. Isolate each power lead and check for a short to ground, make sure
your getting infinity readings on your grounds and not grounding back through
the system somewhere which might show up as a high resistance vs. a good ground.
Other than that remove the FPS altogther does the flap work OK through the
full range? If so it's working OK. Verify the schematic is the correct one,
If I recall and don't hold me to it I believe you use the RV-8 wiring diagram
from FPS to correctly hook up the module for the RV-10.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 9:08:02 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
Anybody have any ideas?
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Problems |
What size of breaker do you have? Are you sure it's a good breaker? What
switch are you using? It does sound like either bad wiring or a bad FPS.
The slow running of the flaps tells me that power is being lost somewhere.
In fact, I wonder if somehow, with the switch in the center, the switch is
grounding the positive wire somehow, which is causing it. Do you have a
DPDT switch or a SPDT switch? With the symptoms you describe, I would say
that maybe in the neutral position, one of the polls is somehow shorting to
ground, which would be the poll that is positive when going down, which
would be negative when going up.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Rene [mailto:rene(at)felker.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:08 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
Anybody have any ideas?
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap Positioning System Problems |
Rene, I believe that you may have a defective FPS. some time ago when I
1st installed the system , I went through a test of it, and found that
the leads didn't respond correctly to a continuity check, or operate
correctly when a battery and switch was connected to them. i contacted
the vendor (show planes?) and they were aware of a problem they had with
one of their 'batches' since they distribute them through others they
couldn't notify customers. but after i described the symptoms, they
asked me to return it and they promptly sent out a replacement, which
worked just fine. IIRC the problem was an internally wiring error.
Judging by your builder number its possible you purchased yours from the
same batch I did.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rene wrote:
>
> I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
> when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
> the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
> keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
> trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
>
> Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Rene'
> 40322
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Problems |
Thanks Deems, Jesse and Rick. When I get back to the hanger tonight I will
do a little more trouble shooting.
I did send Show Planes an e-mail last night explaining my problem, I will
let you know what they say.
Thanks again.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
Rene, I believe that you may have a defective FPS. some time ago when I
1st installed the system , I went through a test of it, and found that
the leads didn't respond correctly to a continuity check, or operate
correctly when a battery and switch was connected to them. i contacted
the vendor (show planes?) and they were aware of a problem they had with
one of their 'batches' since they distribute them through others they
couldn't notify customers. but after i described the symptoms, they
asked me to return it and they promptly sent out a replacement, which
worked just fine. IIRC the problem was an internally wiring error.
Judging by your builder number its possible you purchased yours from the
same batch I did.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Rene wrote:
>
> I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
> when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down
switch,
> the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If
I
> keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
> trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
>
> Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Rene'
> 40322
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
So Avery has one eh? How in the heck did I miss that. I thought I made all
the rounds to check the preferred places.
How many extensions did you end up needing (Avery + how many regular 12") to
get all the ribs under the QB attached bottom skins?
Also where do they caution against using larger than 3/4" hole? I've seen
others use and was thinking about running the Van's nylon conduit and I
think it requires a bit larger than that.
Unfortunately, I'm in So-Cal otherwise I'd take you up on the offer and put
an end to this item!
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomhanaway
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 2:50 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions
I just went through this on my 10 QB wings. The other issue is that any
head that holds a 3/8 shank is bigger than the max 3/4" recommended hole.
Avery tools makes a 12" extension where the size of the head has been cut
down to just fit through the 3/4" hole yet it holds a 3/8" shank. Works
great. Plus, although not necessary for this portion of the project, you
can easily extend the 12" extension with standard 1/4 " extenders since the
shank of the Avery tool is 1/4".
Of course, if you live in South Florida, you're welcome to borrow mine :^)
Tom Hanaway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138717#138717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New trim servo controller |
| From: | "=?utf-8?B?Qm9iIE5ld21hbg==?=" <rcnewman(at)mycingular.blackberry.net> |
Fellow RV builders,
I would like to make you all aware of a new product I am introducing to the
homebuilt community.
We have developed a trim servo controller that eliminates the problems of
run-away trim and inoperative trim conditions.
Our new servo controller is called Safety-Trim and it provides speed control,
direction control, emergency reversing and time limited motion of standard
trim servos, such as the Ray Allen series.
We've been flying Safety-Trim in our Glastar and recently introduced it at
a local EAA fly-in in Toms River, NJ. 1 and 2 axis units are now available.
Please visit. www.tcwtech.com for all the details.
Please contact me off list at: rnewman(at)tcwtech.com
Best regards,
Bob Newman
RV-10. #40176
Glastar N99RN
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
Hi Michael,
What size hole did you end up drilling for the Van's conduit?
Also what did you do if anything to secure the conduit in place?
Thanks!
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Wellenzohn
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:40 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions
Patrick,
I used an extension I got from Avery tools and but a metric Unibit in. I
drilled the holes to the perfect size so that the Vans conduits fitted
nicely once you got it in.
http://www.averytools.com/p-533-6-12-step-drill-extensions.aspx
check out my website
www.wellenzohn.net
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138776#138776
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
Hi John,
I didn't consider that a smaller Unibit might have a smaller shank. Very
helpful!
How did you go about making a template? I was thinking about making a
second conduit run for most of the wire runs and using the one called for in
the plans for the strobe. I'm not quite sure how to make the most effective
template for this. That would certainly simplify things.
But that does help a lot, thank you very much.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 7:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Drillbit extensions
Patrick,
I just finished that step. Instead of enlarging, I put in another set of
holes. Here's how I did it. First, made a template so they would line up. In
the open bays, I used a #30 to start a pilot hole, then followed up with a
unibit to 3/8". This size is perfect for a #4 snap bushing. Instead of the
unibit I got from Avery, I went to the Home Depot Aviation Supply Store and
bought a #1 unibit, which has a 1/4" shank. It was easier to use in my
smaller Sioux drill (it fits in a bay).
For the areas that have been skinned, I started a pilot hole in the wing
root rib using the same template with a #30. I marked the next rib with the
template and then pulled out the 12 inch long #30 I got from Avery. Once the
second rib is drilled, the two holes acted as a guide for the rest. You do
need to pull the inspection port a little further in, but you get the
picture.
Next, I went to the Ace Hardware Aviation Supply Store and bought a metal
cutting 12 inch long 3/8" drill bit. After using the unibit on the wing root
pilot hole, I switched over to the long 3/8" bit and it went like a dream.
Used my hand held cordless set to a high speed because the shank is 3/8".
If you have already skinned everything in, the outer bays could still be
done with the shank extensions you talked about. Using the smaller #1
unibit, you could assemble it in place between each rib. Drill the hole,
disassemble, and repeat. Hope this helps.
John
poneill(at)irealms.com wrote:
> I'm planning to enlarge the wiring run holes in the QB wings in the next
> week or two and I am trying to locate a source for a drill bit extension
> that will accommodate the unibit's 3/8" shank. I can find many 1/4" and
> 7/16" shank extensions, but so far I have found none for a bit with 3/8"
> shank.
>
> The ones I have been looking at are the 12" or 18" extensions (planned on
> using several as required) with Allen head screws to secure the bit in the
> extension. I don't believe an extension for a 7/16" shank would work
> because of the difficulties centering the bit. The last thing I want is a
> crazed unibit wreaking havoc inside the wings.
>
> I know some homegrown solutions were discussed here not long ago, but does
> anyone have a good recommendation or online source for such extensions?
>
> Best Regards,
> Patrick #40715
--------
#40572 Empennage done, starting QB Wings
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138767#138767
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Horizon 1 to SL wiring |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Ron,
Actually serial port 1 is available even though there is an ARINC module
installed (not true when the GPS module is installed). The port is
limited to low speed (19,200 or less) though when the ARINC module is
there. In practical terms this means that about the only thing you
can't use port 1 for (on the DU with the ARINC module) is the XM weather
module.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
(AUS BAeA)
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:18 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring
For those with GRTs and SL-30 installed, I discovered this during my
final wiring check:
Reference "EFIS Horizon Cable Description (Triple Display Unit EFIS
Single AHRS)" Display Unit 1 - Connector A Description
Pin 2 definition states "Serial Out 1 - Spare - Also connects to
expansion port for ARINC 429 or internal GPS (Available if expansion
port NOT used)"
Pin 20 definition for Serial In 1 is the same.
I have the ARINC 429 Module connected. The pins 2 and 20 definitions
above imply that Serial In/Out 1 are therefore NOT available to me -
they are used to interface to the ARINC Module.
WD-1001-05 specifies the wiring interconnect to the SL30 and indicates
that Pins 2 and 20 connect to the SL-30 WITH the ARINC module installed.
Can't imagine that Serial port 1 drives BOTH the ARINC Module and SL30.
Where is the error, or what am I missing?
Cheers,
Ron
187 still trying to finish
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drillbit extensions |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Patrick,
the unibit is I guess 22mm in diameter and I could enlarge the holes slightly so
that the conduit fitted just through with some pulling and bending. It is now
caught in the holes and doesn't move at all so it is not necessary to secure
it.
Michael
(VP-200 arrived :D )
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138986#138986
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
| From: | "Bobby J. Hughes" <bhughes(at)qnsi.net> |
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Aileron deflection |
Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the
measurement between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing
edge when it is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of
control linkages? Is it 1", 2" or so?
Thanks
John 40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is
not painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Just so everyone knows Jan Eggenfellner post turbo testing results on
his news page and this is what Bobby is referring to.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it is
not painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good fuel
burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Chelton Cable Lengths? |
Tim and any others who have installed Cheltons, can you tell me the wiring
lengths from the PFD to GADAHRS, OAT Probe, MSU, etc.?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors |
At this point I think I have most of the electrical wiring in place:
- (2) Main power lines 2AWG and 8AWG for dual R14 dual batt/dual alt scheme
- (3) solenoid control lines for main power and crossfeed solenoids
- (2) shielded lines for left and right wing strobes
- (1) power line for strobe power supply
- (1) power for tail light
- (1) 7 multi conductor bundle for elevator trim
Yet to go are:
- (1) antenna coax for 1 comm anttenna (the other will go in wing tip or
upper fuse
- (2) Van's conduit for future revisions
- (1) for activation of projected new generation ELT (??)
Remaining questions are:
- What do I run for AHRS for projected dual Chelton panel
- Battery Bus - I'm thinking 3 lines for things like clock(?), dome
light and (??)
- Where does the static line run - can't find in plans or in archives
but I'm sure I've seen it before. Does it go thru center or along one
of the sides?
I'm assuming:
- That GPS and transponder anttennas will be forward of seats and/or in
cabin top
- Nav and Marker antennas will be in tips
- Nothing else can be run down the accessible center channel to avoid
interference with control system
All comments welcome.
Bill "filling up the fuselage bottom with systems" Watson
Durham NC #40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
Ok hows yours going Dan? speed that is. Sounds a great plane indeed!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Lloyd, Daniel R.
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 7:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Just so everyone knows Jan Eggenfellner post turbo testing results on
his news page and this is what Bobby is referring to.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all know it
is not painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is installed
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing. Good
fuel burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Tail strobe light wires |
| From: | "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com> |
OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout. Once
I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get routed
before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the guidance
(yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that I'll have to
remove.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Horizon 1 to SL wiring |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks Bob.
Your explanation is supported by the following overnight response from
GRT:
"You can run the SL-30 on serial 1 with the ARINC module. The SL-30 does
not work however if you have the internal GPS module on serial 1.
We have to update that in the Connector Description."
I guess they still have some doco catchup to do - but their customer
support/responsiveness is awesome.
cheers,
Ron
187
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob
(US SSA)
Sent: Tuesday, 9 October 2007 11:10 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring
Ron,
Actually serial port 1 is available even though there is an
ARINC module installed (not true when the GPS module is installed). The
port is limited to low speed (19,200 or less) though when the ARINC
module is there. In practical terms this means that about the only
thing you can't use port 1 for (on the DU with the ARINC module) is the
XM weather module.
Bob #40105
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
(AUS BAeA)
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 8:18 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Horizon 1 to SL wiring
For those with GRTs and SL-30 installed, I discovered this
during my final wiring check:
Reference "EFIS Horizon Cable Description (Triple Display Unit
EFIS Single AHRS)" Display Unit 1 - Connector A Description
Pin 2 definition states "Serial Out 1 - Spare - Also connects
to expansion port for ARINC 429 or internal GPS (Available if expansion
port NOT used)"
Pin 20 definition for Serial In 1 is the same.
I have the ARINC 429 Module connected. The pins 2 and 20
definitions above imply that Serial In/Out 1 are therefore NOT available
to me - they are used to interface to the ARINC Module.
WD-1001-05 specifies the wiring interconnect to the SL30 and
indicates that Pins 2 and 20 connect to the SL-30 WITH the ARINC module
installed.
Can't imagine that Serial port 1 drives BOTH the ARINC Module
and SL30. Where is the error, or what am I missing?
Cheers,
Ron
187 still trying to finish
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files
is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the
intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this
email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has
been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not
the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure
virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this
email to
your computer."
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors |
How about:
Pitch trim for autopilot. TT uses (1) 20AWG power, (1) 20AWG ground,
(6) 22AWG control. (use Stein's pre-twisted bundle
<http://www.steinair.com/wire.htm>
Run an RG-400 for a gps or some other antenna that you may want to add
to the rear of the canopy
Run the static line along with the wire.
Consider pulling some spare twisted pairs. I added a 3 and a 4
conductor. Who knows what I will use them for.
Consider 1 larger wire for the battery feed to a fuse block forward.
Will there be rudder trim in the future? (there's another 7 wires)
For the Chelton MSU (I will mount the GHARDS up front) you need (1) 3
conductor 22AWG shielded, (2) 22AWG power, (4) 22AWG ground
Strobe ground or ground local.
Larry Rosen
#356
MauleDriver wrote:
>
> At this point I think I have most of the electrical wiring in place:
> - (2) Main power lines 2AWG and 8AWG for dual R14 dual batt/dual alt
> scheme
> - (3) solenoid control lines for main power and crossfeed solenoids
> - (2) shielded lines for left and right wing strobes
> - (1) power line for strobe power supply
> - (1) power for tail light
> - (1) 7 multi conductor bundle for elevator trim
> Yet to go are:
> - (1) antenna coax for 1 comm anttenna (the other will go in wing tip
> or upper fuse
> - (2) Van's conduit for future revisions
> - (1) for activation of projected new generation ELT (??)
>
> Remaining questions are:
> - What do I run for AHRS for projected dual Chelton panel
> - Battery Bus - I'm thinking 3 lines for things like clock(?), dome
> light and (??)
> - Where does the static line run - can't find in plans or in archives
> but I'm sure I've seen it before. Does it go thru center or along one
> of the sides?
>
> I'm assuming:
> - That GPS and transponder anttennas will be forward of seats and/or
> in cabin top
> - Nav and Marker antennas will be in tips
> - Nothing else can be run down the accessible center channel to avoid
> interference with control system
>
> All comments welcome.
>
> Bill "filling up the fuselage bottom with systems" Watson
> Durham NC #40605
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
For those that are looking for the performance numbers, I found them here:
<http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/Performance%20Page.htm> to the
middle of the page
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I'm
having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to set the
last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top skin is set
first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in between to the two
rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any bucking bar is too big.
I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at the
moment.
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
Oldie but a goodie Bob,
I used a cold chisel wedged into the trailing edge with the back rivet unde
r the bottom skin and it came out OK, there are several ways but that was m
ine, others may chime in.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 9, 2007 4:58:31 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I
=99m having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how t
o set the last rivet towards the trailing edge.=C2-=C2- The rivet on th
e top skin is set first, but there isn=99t ample room to get my no ho
le in between to the two rivets =C2-(top and bottom) to squeeze and clear
ly any bucking bar is too big.
I=99m sure there must be an obvious solution, I=99m just not se
eing it at the moment.
Thanks,
Bob
====
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Tail strobe light wires |
I would highly recommending using K1000-06 nutplates in place of the pop
rivets on the rudder bottom fairing. You will be glad you did when you have
to get at those wires again. It will also be helpful if you decide to add
rudder trim down the road.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: ddnebert [mailto:doug(at)mapcontext.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires
OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout.
Once I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get
routed before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the
guidance (yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that
I'll have to remove.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
pop rivet with the MK-319-BS - it will be fine structurally.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance,
I'm having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to
set the last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top
skin is set first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in
between to the two rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any
bucking bar is too big.
I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at
the moment.
Thanks,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail strobe light wires |
I would use 04 nut plates and screws.
Vans Wire harness plans have you making a 3/16 hole through the F-1012
Fuselage Bulkhead stack up. Centered between the lower two bolts.
Larry Rosen
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I would highly recommending using K1000-06 nutplates in place of the pop
> rivets on the rudder bottom fairing. You will be glad you did when you have
> to get at those wires again. It will also be helpful if you decide to add
> rudder trim down the road.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> www.saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ddnebert [mailto:doug(at)mapcontext.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:33 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tail strobe light wires
>
>
> OK, so I have the rudder fairing with the obvious spot for the light cutout.
> Once I cut the hole and add a couple of nutplates, where will the wires get
> routed before/during the riveting onto the rudder itself? I don't see the
> guidance (yet) in the directions and don't want to get rivets going that
> I'll have to remove.
>
> --------
> RV-10 Builder #40546
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139037#139037
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Paint scheme |
I wanted to share with the list a way that I found to work on the paint
scheme for your aircraft. Some of the services that I could find when I
googled aircraft paint schemes were pretty expensive ($600). I went out
and found a website that catered to freelance artists. There, I had
people submit bids to help me with my paint scheme. I found a young man
over in Pakistan who did the artwork for less than 10% of that price. I
used the line drawings from Tim's site and sent them for him to color.
Then had him do some artwork on the tail design. Attached is the final
drawing.
The young man's name is Moshin Kahn and his email address is:
mohsinfk(at)yahoo.com
The web site to set up the account (paypal type secured funds
transfer) Guru.com
Fred Williams
40515
guess where I live
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Paint scheme |
Fred,
Looks pretty good! I liked the lines. Here is my version (modified with
the free image editor Paint.NET http://www.getpaint.net)
-Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Paint scheme
I wanted to share with the list a way that I found to work on the paint
scheme for your aircraft. Some of the services that I could find when I
googled aircraft paint schemes were pretty expensive ($600). I went out
and found a website that catered to freelance artists. There, I had
people submit bids to help me with my paint scheme. I found a young man
over in Pakistan who did the artwork for less than 10% of that price. I
used the line drawings from Tim's site and sent them for him to color.
Then had him do some artwork on the tail design. Attached is the final
drawing.
The young man's name is Moshin Kahn and his email address is:
mohsinfk(at)yahoo.com
The web site to set up the account (paypal type secured funds
transfer) Guru.com
Fred Williams
40515
guess where I live
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tail strobe light wires |
| From: | "ddnebert" <doug(at)mapcontext.com> |
Thanks. Larry sent me the pages from section OP37- that must come with the finishing
kit. I'm only on the fuselage but am wanting to finish things up more as
I go. I carefully installed #6 screw nutplates to hold the strobe/position light
to the end of the fairing and will spiral wrap the wires so they can slide
all the way in and out in case of repair. Since they go up to a gap in the front
of the fairing, I think I can snake 'em if I need to. I'll skip the nutplate
suggestion.
--------
RV-10 Builder #40546
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139095#139095
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Flap Positioning System Problems |
Rick thanks for pointing out the obvious....you were right. Here is the
response I got from Show Planes.
Rene',
Do not use the extra relay deck you have installed, the FPS does not require
that even if you are using a reduced current capacity switch. If the toggle
switch has been replaced make sure it operates in the same fashion as the
original. Also make sure the actuator is completely retracted before making
the required set up adjustment.
Let me know if you need further assistance,
Bryan Milani
Well, my sticks are not wired for a powered switch so I just disconnected
the ground return on the normally closed relays and guess what, the flaps
work. Yea. So for all y'all who have not put in your flap positioning
system, you can not ground the control lines on the FPS. They have to be
powered, one at a time for up and down, or disconnected.
Rene'
N423CF
40322 Finish, or something like it......getting close to engine start...
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2007 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
Rene,
Sounds like your wired wrong. I know, no sh*t. The FPS is gounded with the
flap motor gets constant power from the buss then switched power from the
switch to either up, which will continue to raise until the limit is reached
and the motor will stop or down, where the motor will stop at the three
predetermined points. Double check to make sure your not feeding constant
power into the up or down leads. Isolate each power lead and check for a
short to ground, make sure your getting infinity readings on your grounds
and not grounding back through the system somewhere which might show up as a
high resistance vs. a good ground. Other than that remove the FPS altogther
does the flap work OK through the full range? If so it's working OK. Verify
the schematic is the correct one, If I recall and don't hold me to it I
believe you use the RV-8 wiring diagram from FPS to correctly hook up the
module for the RV-10.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com>
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2007 9:08:02 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Flap Positioning System Problems
I hooked up my FPS today and did the final rigging of the flaps.....but,
when I lower the flaps, once I take my finger off the momentary down switch,
the flaps run slowly for about 2/3 seconds and then the breaker trips. If I
keep my finger on the switch the flaps run faster and the breaker does not
trip. The breaker does not trip when I bring the flaps up.
Anybody have any ideas?
Rene'
40322
N423CF
801-721-6080
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection |
John,
This is from memory... Seems about 3" up, 1.5" down.
Anh
N591VU-flying
----- Original Message -----
From: John Dunne
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the measure
ment between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing edge when i
t is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of control linkages? I
s it 1", 2" or so?
Thanks
John 40315
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | fuel tank gotchas for the learning impaired |
We skipped finishing up the tanks with proseal when we had originally got to
that point nearly 8 months ago because it was too cold in the garage.
Summer came around and it was too hot. I figured we were out of excuses and
that we needed to get them done before it was too cold once again. After
two full days this weekend of working with the "Black Death" I am not so
patiently waiting for the proseal to set up before performing the leak test.
I have a couple words of wisdom for those that still have the honor of
finishing up your tanks. Not about the proseal part cause I sucked at that
I am sure but.
1) Before riveting the T-1012 Tank Attach Zee's to the tanks test fit
each of them between the flanges of the wing spars while it's still easy to
run the edges across your scotchbrite wheel. I have been handily taking off
the primer and several thousandths of aluminum from their edges while
carefully filing them thinner so they will slip between the wing spar
flanges.
2) Check the rear most nutplates where the tanks screw into the splice
strip on the outboard leading edge assemblies for clearance from the wing
spar flange. The rear most rivet on the last nutplate was so close to the
flange that I feared it would contact it when the gas tank was fitted. I am
sure if this did happen it would make my wings snap in half in flight one
day so I drilled out the nutplates and replaced them with MS21053-L08's (the
one's with both rivet holes on one side). I figure the rear #40 hole that
is now empty will make my plane that much lighter which I will need to keep
up with the turbo Subie!
3) This is my favorite. When we finished riveting the last of the
rear tank baffle we removed the tanks from the cradle and turned them over
so they were sitting on the bench with the leading edge up. Our hopes were
that the bead of proseal would let gravity help it flow into the seams
around the tank baffle (proseal flow. that's funny). To my horror I heard a
clunking as I rotated it. Be sure you double check that your float arms are
correctly clipped in place before subjecting them to a life without
sunshine. I know they are substandard at best but I am pretty sure they
don't work for s*#t bouncing and sloshing around unattached. So I don't
offend anyone on the list I will just say we.
a) removed the sender and the non-prosealed rubber gasket
b) removed the sender w/o the gasket
c) removed the sender, rubber gasket, and cleaned off the proseal
d) removed the sender and re-coated with fuel lube
e) chiseled away at the TIG weld around the sender
(John Cox - circle your favorite answer)
.rescued the float arm and reinstalled the assembly per a, b, c,
d, (hell no on e) above!
This should save you several hours of cleanup work from not paying enough
attention during the original fitting.
Ben Westfall
#40579
PDX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rvmail(at)thelefflers.com> |
| Subject: | Riveting Question |
Thanks for your comments.
I was starting to come to the same conclusion, since there are a couple of
these already on the bottom.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Riveting Question
pop rivet with the MK-319-BS - it will be fine structurally.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Leffler <mailto:rvmail(at)thelefflers.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Riveting Question
On page 9-14, when attaching the skins to the E-903 counter balance, I'm
having problems figuring out (my complete lack of creativity) how to set the
last rivet towards the trailing edge. The rivet on the top skin is set
first, but there isn't ample room to get my no hole in between to the two
rivets (top and bottom) to squeeze and clearly any bucking bar is too big.
I'm sure there must be an obvious solution, I'm just not seeing it at the
moment.
Thanks,
Bob
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
__________ NOD32 2582 (20071009) Information __________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Chelton Cable Lengths? |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
The answer to this is it would depend, based on where you choose to
install them, my GADHRS is only a couple of feet from the displays and
Tim's are behind his baggage bulkhead.
I think Stein would be better to ask on this as he probably has a
default trim to length he makes for his harness
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Chelton Cable Lengths?
Tim and any others who have installed Cheltons, can you tell me the
wiring lengths from the PFD to GADAHRS, OAT Probe, MSU, etc.?
Thanks.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Mine is the one Jan is using to do the testing. I have not gotten to fly
it since the turbo and intercooler have been installed because it was
completed last weekend, but I have commercial tickets in hand to be
there on Friday, then I can report from an end user experience.
My RV10 is still the only customer built flying with an alternative
engine, but I know there are several getting close with Rotary's and
V-8's
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris and
Susie McGough
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 6:02 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Ok hows yours going Dan? speed that is. Sounds a great plane indeed!
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: Lloyd, Daniel R. <mailto:LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 7:33 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Just so everyone knows Jan Eggenfellner post turbo testing
results on his news page and this is what Bobby is referring to.
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:31 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
without gear leg fairings or intersection fairings and we all
know it is not painted....
Dan
N289DT RV10E flying higher and faster now that the turbo is
installed
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby J.
Hughes
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:06 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers
Dan,
Those are some impressive numbers from your H6 turbo testing.
Good fuel burn and speed at altitude.
Bobby
40116
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron deflection |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
There is also a table of min/max travels in the first few chapters of
the construction manual, you know the ones that also tell you how to do
your weight and balance, and test flights? I do not remember the chapter
number, but the FAA inspector wanted to see this table and then measure
travel on the control surfaces to make sure they met but did not exceed
the recommended values.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
John,
This is from memory... Seems about 3" up, 1.5" down.
Anh
N591VU-flying
----- Original Message -----
From: John Dunne <mailto:acs(at)acspropeller.com.au>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is
the measurement between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron
trailing edge when it is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly
of control linkages? Is it 1", 2" or so?
Thanks
John 40315
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chelton Cable Lengths? |
I don't have any specific wire lengths because I pretty much
just pulled a piece of string-trimmer line from a grass trimmer,
cut to slightly excess length, and then pulled that out to use
as a length template. Then re-pulled the bundle, with the
string trimmer length to use as a future puller. So lengths
I don't have. But, what I do have is an install write-up.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20060531/index.html
I went with the tail installation because behind the panel
I just don't want to take up more room, and I think it's
got to be a pretty electrically noisy place already. So the
AHRS is behind the baggage wall on a shelf. The MSU I could
have put in the wing, which is great if you put it away from
the servos and stuff, but when I put mine in, I figured
it would be easier to wire the MSU to the GADAHRS if they
were somewhat close, and the further aft area of the tail
has worked well magnetically and electrically. It's pretty
cool how when you calibrate the AHRS you can see to extreme
detail the magnetics with all the various live data that
is provided on the diagnostics screen. (This is the
pinpoint, of course) so for me, the majority of wire was
panel to tail, and then OAT was wing to tail. I doubt
you'd find a problem with mounting the MSU in the wing.
The hardest part might be getting everything level...but the
calibration procedure actually allows you to calibrate out
mis-leveling fore and aft too.
Sorry I don't have specific lengths.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> Read with a humorous intent, but Tim, you should know better than that! I
> didn't mean what is the standard because I know there is no standard, but
> for those who have done it, where did you mount your stuff and how long were
> the wires you used? If I can get some ideas of where things were installed,
> then I could measure for wiring runs, but if you also know your lengths,
> that would help too.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> www.saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim(at)MyRV10.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 9:21 AM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Chelton Cable Lengths?
>
>
> Read with a humorous intent, but Jesse, you should know better than
> that! Like Dan said...it all just depends on where you mount
> Everything. You can mount the GADAHRS behind the panel or in the
> tail, you can mount the MSU (magnetometer) in the wing or in the
> tail or any other magnetically ideal spot. The OAT can go where
> you want it (I prefer near a wing access panel at least 3 or 4' outboard
> from the root. So, you need to determine where you want the components.
> The good news is, it's just shielded pairs and triplets so there's
> nothing too fancy about the wiring. I don't think there is any
> "standard" harness to be had.
>
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>> The answer to this is it would depend, based on where you choose to
>> install them, my GADHRS is only a couple of feet from the displays and
>> Tim's are behind his baggage bulkhead.
>> I think Stein would be better to ask on this as he probably has a
>> default trim to length he makes for his harness
>> Dan
>> N289DT RV10E Flying
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jesse Saint
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 09, 2007 5:44 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Chelton Cable Lengths?
>>
>> Tim and any others who have installed Cheltons, can you tell me the
>> wiring lengths from the PFD to GADAHRS, OAT Probe, MSU, etc.?
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Riveting Question |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
I see you already have an answer, but I gave up and used a blind rivet (pop).
John
--------
#40572 Empennage done, starting QB Wings
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139189#139189
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator Code |
=0ADoes anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for fli
ght plan form)?=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Gonzalez" <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Paint scheme |
I like the lines and the color.
I guess one might guess that you live in Texas, but certainly not in Austin.
A cowboy hat on top of the Eiffel tower, humm?
That's not like freedom fries, is it??
JOhn
>From: "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>To: RV 10
>Subject: RV10-List: Aircraft Paint scheme
>Date: Tue, 09 Oct 2007 20:07:16 -0500
>
>I wanted to share with the list a way that I found to work on the paint
>scheme for your aircraft. Some of the services that I could find when I
>googled aircraft paint schemes were pretty expensive ($600). I went out
>and found a website that catered to freelance artists. There, I had people
>submit bids to help me with my paint scheme. I found a young man over in
>Pakistan who did the artwork for less than 10% of that price. I used the
>line drawings from Tim's site and sent them for him to color. Then had him
>do some artwork on the tail design. Attached is the final drawing.
>
>The young man's name is Moshin Kahn and his email address is:
>mohsinfk(at)yahoo.com
>
>The web site to set up the account (paypal type secured funds transfer)
>Guru.com
>
>Fred Williams
>40515
>guess where I live
>
><< plane-side.gif >>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator Code |
Yup..... RV10 ;)
In the olden days, like last year, we had to use HXB, which
is homebuilt experimental, with a B speed range. Now
we can use RV10.
Tim
Roger Standley wrote:
>
> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight plan
> form)?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator Code |
I believe it will be either -hxa or -hxb where the a or b is the
catagory approach speed. I know my slow Glastar is -hxa
>>> taildragon(at)msn.com 10/10/2007 12:48 PM >>>
Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight
plan form)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
Is there an advantage to having the aircraft on jacks to install/mount
the wheel pants? It appears that Van's recommends that approach.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
My reasoning on this is that the weight of the plane sitting on the gear
could/will change the geometry of the wheels (i.e it would move them
outward and potentially induce a twist). Since the installation is aimed
at installing the pants parallel to to the line of thrust. that's a
potential issue. with all of that said after installing the pants and
following the plans as closely as possible, I'm of the opinion that
getting the pants aligned is NOT as precise an activity as you would
hope it to be. The reference marks that the plans have you use are
somewhat arbitrary. And the quality and dimensions of the fiberglass
parts vary. I believe it was Bob Condrey that said 'getting the
pants/fairings aligned is more a crap shoot than a test of skills'.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
David McNeill wrote:
> Is there an advantage to having the aircraft on jacks to install/mount
> the wheel pants? It appears that Van's recommends that approach.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Remaining questions for routing stuff under the floors |
Thanks Larry... Perfect! That helps a lot.
Larry Rosen wrote:
>
> How about:
> Pitch trim for autopilot. TT uses (1) 20AWG power, (1) 20AWG ground,
> (6) 22AWG control. (use Stein's pre-twisted bundle
> <http://www.steinair.com/wire.htm>
>
> Run an RG-400 for a gps or some other antenna that you may want to add
> to the rear of the canopy
>
> Run the static line along with the wire.
>
> Consider pulling some spare twisted pairs. I added a 3 and a 4
> conductor. Who knows what I will use them for.
>
> Consider 1 larger wire for the battery feed to a fuse block forward.
>
> Will there be rudder trim in the future? (there's another 7 wires)
>
> For the Chelton MSU (I will mount the GHARDS up front) you need (1) 3
> conductor 22AWG shielded, (2) 22AWG power, (4) 22AWG ground
>
> Strobe ground or ground local.
>
> Larry Rosen
> #356
>
>
> MauleDriver wrote:
>>
>> At this point I think I have most of the electrical wiring in place:
>> - (2) Main power lines 2AWG and 8AWG for dual R14 dual batt/dual alt
>> scheme
>> - (3) solenoid control lines for main power and crossfeed solenoids
>> - (2) shielded lines for left and right wing strobes
>> - (1) power line for strobe power supply
>> - (1) power for tail light
>> - (1) 7 multi conductor bundle for elevator trim
>> Yet to go are:
>> - (1) antenna coax for 1 comm anttenna (the other will go in wing tip
>> or upper fuse
>> - (2) Van's conduit for future revisions
>> - (1) for activation of projected new generation ELT (??)
>>
>> Remaining questions are:
>> - What do I run for AHRS for projected dual Chelton panel
>> - Battery Bus - I'm thinking 3 lines for things like clock(?), dome
>> light and (??)
>> - Where does the static line run - can't find in plans or in archives
>> but I'm sure I've seen it before. Does it go thru center or along
>> one of the sides?
>>
>> I'm assuming:
>> - That GPS and transponder anttennas will be forward of seats and/or
>> in cabin top
>> - Nav and Marker antennas will be in tips
>> - Nothing else can be run down the accessible center channel to avoid
>> interference with control system
>>
>> All comments welcome.
>>
>> Bill "filling up the fuselage bottom with systems" Watson
>> Durham NC #40605
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
Yes, the gear legs flex when the airplane is on the ground. You want them
in the in-flight position.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wheel pants
Is there an advantage to having the aircraft on jacks to install/mount the
wheel pants? It appears that Van's recommends that approach.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Yes, you have to align them to airflow, and the wheel angel will change
while they are on the ground. Follow the directions or you will have 5
rudders fighting for control of the yaw axis (Two wheelpants, two
gearleg fairings and a rudder)
Dan
N289DT RV10E
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 2:52 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wheel pants
Is there an advantage to having the aircraft on jacks to install/mount
the wheel pants? It appears that Van's recommends that approach.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antenna Selection & Location |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Dear 10-List,
It's time to select my antennas and place them on the plane. Here is my minimum
list of antenna:
Recap ~$Location
CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
CI-105 Transp. $100.00 Belly
CI-102Marker $100.00 Belly
Archer #1VOR $85.00 Internal Win Tip
Archer #1VOR $85.00 Internal Win Tip
GPS GA-35GPS $350.00 Canopy Top
GPS GA-35GPS $350.00 Canopy Top
XM Antenna Included Canopy Top
Geeez, Can you hear me now?
The XM Antenna is included with the purchase of my Garmin GDL-69a receiver.
I am thinking of replacing 1 GA-35 GPS antenna and the XM antenna and buying a combo GPS/XM antenna from Comant (CI 401-460 http://www.comant.com/pdfs/CI_401-460.pdf ) They offer a couple of different models so when Tech Support calls me back I can get their best recommendation. This will eliminate one bump/penetration on my canopy.
Regarding location I reviewed the archives and Tim's Antenna page including Comant's suggested antenna location: http://www.myrv10.com/files/antennas/comant/Comant_Suggested_Antenna_Locations.pdf
My current plan is to place the antennas in these locations:
Shark Blade just aft of the exhaust outlet
Marker Beacon basically between the main gear or aft of the rear bulkhead
2 Comm side by side aft of the main gear but forward of the step
Archer VOR in each wing tip
2 GPS plus 1 XM in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear window ends OR
1 GPS & 1 GPS/XM antenna in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear window
ends
I see Tim has one GPS antenna near the rear bulkhead and one just behind the windscreen.
Tim also has his marker antenna aft of the bulkhead and the Comm antenna
side by side in the location I am proposing.
Other than seeing if I can get Tim to finish my plane...Can I get any comments
on my antenna selection and placement?
Thanks in advance,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 400 hours
RV-10 BPE engine Ships next week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Antenna Selection & Location |
My configuration is similar to yours except I went with the Bob Archer
Marker Antenna.......40" piece of wire out in the wing tip. I am not flying
yet, so can not tell you how they work.
Put my 1 GA-35 on the top right behind the baggage bulkhead. When I rolled
my A/C out in front of the hanger, the Garmin came alive within about 30
seconds......
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 1:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Antenna Selection & Location
Dear 10-List,
It's time to select my antennas and place them on the plane. Here is
my minimum list of antenna:
Recap
~$Location
CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
CI-105 Transp. $100.00 Belly
CI-102Marker $100.00 Belly
Archer #1VOR
$85.00 Internal Win Tip
Archer #1VOR $85.00
Internal Win Tip
GPS GA-35GPS $350.00 Canopy
Top
GPS GA-35GPS $350.00 Canopy
Top
XM Antenna Included Canopy
Top
Geeez, Can you hear me now?
The XM Antenna is included with the purchase of my Garmin GDL-69a
receiver.
I am thinking of replacing 1 GA-35 GPS antenna and the XM antenna
and buying a combo GPS/XM antenna from Comant (CI 401-460
http://www.comant.com/pdfs/CI_401-460.pdf ) They offer a couple of different
models so when Tech Support calls me back I can get their best
recommendation. This will eliminate one bump/penetration on my canopy.
Regarding location I reviewed the archives and Tim's Antenna page
including Comant's suggested antenna location:
http://www.myrv10.com/files/antennas/comant/Comant_Suggested_Antenna_Locatio
ns.pdf
My current plan is to place the antennas in these locations:
Shark Blade just aft of the exhaust outlet
Marker Beacon basically between the main gear or aft of the rear bulkhead
2 Comm side by side aft of the main gear but forward of the step
Archer VOR in each wing tip
2 GPS plus 1 XM in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear window ends
OR
1 GPS & 1 GPS/XM antenna in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear
window ends
I see Tim has one GPS antenna near the rear bulkhead and one just behind the
windscreen. Tim also has his marker antenna aft of the bulkhead and the Comm
antenna side by side in the location I am proposing.
Other than seeing if I can get Tim to finish my plane...Can I get any
comments on my antenna selection and placement?
Thanks in advance,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 400 hours
RV-10 BPE engine Ships next week
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Selection & Location |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
robin1(at)mrmoisture.com wrote:
>
> Other than seeing if I can get Tim to finish my plane...Can I get any comments
on my antenna selection and placement?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 400 hours
> RV-10 BPE engine Ships next week
Hay Hay Hay, hold your horses. Get in line. I got my request in first. [Mr.
Green]
His plane is finished so what does he have to do now?
About the antenna placement, I am about 2 months behind you so I am listening also.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139247#139247
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron deflection |
Thanks Dan, I'll look this up. I was just curious as to what looks
normal in the total deflection, up versus down and also what this
translated to, given aileron rod clearances as has been discussed
numerous times. I'm trying to determine if/when requiring maximum
control deflection, what is the chances of any foulups and any
possibility of ending up over centre on the auto pilot servo linkage.
Also what this means to the control stick clearances in the cockpit.
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: Lloyd, Daniel R.
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 11:06 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
There is also a table of min/max travels in the first few chapters of
the construction manual, you know the ones that also tell you how to do
your weight and balance, and test flights? I do not remember the chapter
number, but the FAA inspector wanted to see this table and then measure
travel on the control surfaces to make sure they met but did not exceed
the recommended values.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DejaVu
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:45 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
John,
This is from memory... Seems about 3" up, 1.5" down.
Anh
N591VU-flying
----- Original Message -----
From: John Dunne
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Aileron deflection
Can someone please tell me ( I need approximate only) what is the
measurement between the wingtip trailing edge and the aileron trailing
edge when it is fully deflected upwards after complete assembly of
control linkages? Is it 1", 2" or so?
Thanks
John 40315
p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
ics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Antenna Selection & Location |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I did the two comms on the belly, transponder in the center forward, Archer VOR's
in each wing tip, and per Checkoways site used 40" of stripped coax for the
marker beacon glassed into a wing tip. I use the GPS antenna that came with the
pinpoint mounted just aft of the cabin top and the portable GPS ant is on the
glare shield to aid in removal. All works well with testing, and am happy.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 3:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Antenna Selection & Location
Dear 10-List,
It's time to select my antennas and place them on the plane. Here is my minimum
list of antenna:
Recap ~$Location
CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
CI-105 Transp. $100.00 Belly
CI-102Marker $100.00 Belly
Archer #1VOR $85.00 Internal Win Tip
Archer #1VOR $85.00 Internal Win Tip
GPS GA-35GPS $350.00 Canopy Top
GPS GA-35GPS $350.00 Canopy Top
XM Antenna Included Canopy Top
Geeez, Can you hear me now?
The XM Antenna is included with the purchase of my Garmin GDL-69a receiver.
I am thinking of replacing 1 GA-35 GPS antenna and the XM antenna and buying a combo GPS/XM antenna from Comant (CI 401-460 http://www.comant.com/pdfs/CI_401-460.pdf ) They offer a couple of different models so when Tech Support calls me back I can get their best recommendation. This will eliminate one bump/penetration on my canopy.
Regarding location I reviewed the archives and Tim's Antenna page including Comant's suggested antenna location: http://www.myrv10.com/files/antennas/comant/Comant_Suggested_Antenna_Locations.pdf
My current plan is to place the antennas in these locations:
Shark Blade just aft of the exhaust outlet
Marker Beacon basically between the main gear or aft of the rear bulkhead
2 Comm side by side aft of the main gear but forward of the step
Archer VOR in each wing tip
2 GPS plus 1 XM in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear window ends OR
1 GPS & 1 GPS/XM antenna in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear window
ends
I see Tim has one GPS antenna near the rear bulkhead and one just behind the windscreen.
Tim also has his marker antenna aft of the bulkhead and the Comm antenna
side by side in the location I am proposing.
Other than seeing if I can get Tim to finish my plane...Can I get any comments
on my antenna selection and placement?
Thanks in advance,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 400 hours
RV-10 BPE engine Ships next week
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator Code |
Unless you are using DUATS. For some reason they still haven't incorporated
the RV10??? I use HXB and then put RV10 in the remarks.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
Yup..... RV10 ;)
In the olden days, like last year, we had to use HXB, which
is homebuilt experimental, with a B speed range. Now
we can use RV10.
Tim
Roger Standley wrote:
>
> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight plan
> form)?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Selection & Location |
I just received my Garmin 430W and the GA-35 is included with it.
This is perfect timing, I was just getting ready to install all the
antenna's and you have exactly what I do.
I attached the latest panel drawing. It is being laser cut and I should
have it later this week. The only change I am going to make is that I no longer
need the three dimmer knobs. We are about to release a smart dimmer module
that will enable the AF-3500 EFIS to control external lighting circuits from
the EFIS.
Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems
N401RH RV-4 (500+ hours)
N402RH RV-10 Mounting Antenna's and trying to get the doors to fit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Selection & Location |
Thanks for the antenna plan - very useful for this builder.
I'm trying to do with less antenna on my ship but with equivalent
function. I'd appreciate thoughts from the list on the following thoughts:
- Most of my flight guidance, including precision approaches, will be
using GPS. At least that's what the autopilot will be using.
- So, I'm planning on a single Nav and that Nav antenna is going in a
wing tip
- Marker beacon use barely fogs a mirror. Even when flying an ILS in
the Maule, the GPS info just trumps it. But I will have the capability
driven by the cheapest, lowest profile antenna I can fabricate -
stripped coax I guess
- I want dual comm but my experience is that I'll use only one for all
flight ops. Sometimes it's nice to use the other one for Clearance
Delivery or something but the more function in the primary comm, the
less the secondary comm is used. Backup is nice and handhelds have
limitations as a backup (management of batteries, anttena setup, and it
has to be on the checklist)
So my minimum has only one assymetrically mounted comm on the belly,
single Nav, secondary Comm and marker in wingtips. Whatever the GPS
units require on the top. And a transponder poking out of the belly in
front somewhere. I haven't gotten much further yet. I think that
will work.
Bill "installing empty conduit" Watson
Durham NC #40605
Robin Marks wrote:
>
> Dear 10-List,
> It's time to select my antennas and place them on the plane. Here is my minimum
list of antenna:
>
> Recap ~$ Location
> CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
> CI-122 Comm $140.00 Belly
> CI-105 Transp. $100.00 Belly
> CI-102 Marker $100.00 Belly
> Archer #1 VOR $85.00 Internal Win
Tip
> Archer #1 VOR $85.00 Internal Win
Tip
> GPS GA-35 GPS $350.00 Canopy Top
> GPS GA-35 GPS $350.00 Canopy Top
> XM Antenna Included Canopy Top
>
> Geeez, Can you hear me now?
> The XM Antenna is included with the purchase of my Garmin GDL-69a receiver.
> I am thinking of replacing 1 GA-35 GPS antenna and the XM antenna and buying a combo GPS/XM antenna from Comant (CI 401-460 http://www.comant.com/pdfs/CI_401-460.pdf ) They offer a couple of different models so when Tech Support calls me back I can get their best recommendation. This will eliminate one bump/penetration on my canopy.
>
> Regarding location I reviewed the archives and Tim's Antenna page including Comant's suggested antenna location: http://www.myrv10.com/files/antennas/comant/Comant_Suggested_Antenna_Locations.pdf
>
> My current plan is to place the antennas in these locations:
>
> Shark Blade just aft of the exhaust outlet
> Marker Beacon basically between the main gear or aft of the rear bulkhead
> 2 Comm side by side aft of the main gear but forward of the step
> Archer VOR in each wing tip
> 2 GPS plus 1 XM in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear window ends
OR
> 1 GPS & 1 GPS/XM antenna in tandem on top of canopy around where the rear window
ends
>
> I see Tim has one GPS antenna near the rear bulkhead and one just behind the
windscreen. Tim also has his marker antenna aft of the bulkhead and the Comm antenna
side by side in the location I am proposing.
>
> Other than seeing if I can get Tim to finish my plane...Can I get any comments
on my antenna selection and placement?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robin
> RV-4 Sold
> RV-6A 400 hours
> RV-10 BPE engine Ships next week
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
In a message dated 10/7/2007 7:30:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com writes:
The AOA, on the other hand, can be used for more than just stall detection,
but I have had trouble with mine. I get error messages which have required
recalibration every few flights, so I've learned not to count on it working.
Recalibration has never failed to clear the errors, but I've gotten tired of
taking the 10 minutes out of my flight to perform the calibration procedure
and stopped using it. (Nothing against AFS, as I haven't taken the time to
report this to them, so I haven't given them a chance to help me fix it yet
).
This is not the norm, I have had my AOA Pro for the last 400 hours (long
before we purchased the AOA company) and have not had to recalibrate it. T
he
most common issue with what you are describing is leaking plumbing. You
should verify the wing ports, static, and pitot. To check the wing ports
do the
following:
1. Disconnect the tubing from the CPU
2. Suck through the Green and Blue tubes, are they clear?
3. Tape over the top wing port hole and suck the blue tube, you
should not get any air.
4. Tape over the bottom wing port hole and suck the green tube, you
should not get any air.
Next thing is to make sure you have a good connection on the red hose to th
e
pitot and the clear tube to the static. We have had some people push the
=C2=BC=9D
tubes in to far on the Tee=99s and block the cross drilled holes for t
he small
tubes.
Rarely is there ever a problem with the CPU and they do work really well.
The last major problem we had was with a customers Lancair 4P, we had the
CPU twice, he checked the plumbing multiple times and it still acted like y
ou
are describing. Finally after assuring me he had checked the plumbing he
flew the plane to Oregon so I could look at it. Guess what? The clear tub
e to
the static system was pinched with a tie strap.
Call me if you need any help any time.
Sincerley,
Rob Hickman cell (503) 701-5042
Advanced Flight Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Selection & Location |
Nice panel layout, Rob. What are those big screens you are using in your
panel? J
You should see them with Terrain and weather :)
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Probe Vs Stall Warning Vane |
Thanks. I'll take a look at those things.
-Jim
In a message dated 10/10/2007 8:46:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
RobHickman(at)aol.com writes:
In a message dated 10/7/2007 7:30:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com writes:
The AOA, on the other hand, can be used for more than just stall detection,
but I have had trouble with mine. I get error messages which have required
recalibration every few flights, so I've learned not to count on it working
.
Recalibration has never failed to clear the errors, but I've gotten tired o
f
taking the 10 minutes out of my flight to perform the calibration procedure
and stopped using it. (Nothing against AFS, as I haven't taken the time to
report this to them, so I haven't given them a chance to help me fix it yet
).
This is not the norm, I have had my AOA Pro for the last 400 hours (long
before we purchased the AOA company) and have not had to recalibrate it. T
he
most common issue with what you are describing is leaking plumbing. You
should verify the wing ports, static, and pitot. To check the wing ports
do the
following:
1. Disconnect the tubing from the CPU
2. Suck through the Green and Blue tubes, are they clear?
3. Tape over the top wing port hole and suck the blue tube, you
should not get any air.
4. Tape over the bottom wing port hole and suck the green tube, you
should not get any air.
Next thing is to make sure you have a good connection on the red hose to th
e
pitot and the clear tube to the static. We have had some people push the
=C2=BC=9D
tubes in to far on the Tee=99s and block the cross drilled holes for t
he small
tubes.
Rarely is there ever a problem with the CPU and they do work really well.
The last major problem we had was with a customers Lancair 4P, we had the
CPU twice, he checked the plumbing multiple times and it still acted like y
ou
are describing. Finally after assuring me he had checked the plumbing he
flew the plane to Oregon so I could look at it. Guess what? The clear tub
e to
the static system was pinched with a tie strap.
Call me if you need any help any time.
Sincerley,
Rob Hickman cell (503) 701-5042
Advanced Flight Systems
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | test patch - plexiglas glued to cabin top |
| From: | "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net> |
I sent an email request to the Van's builder support asking about the use of epoxy
resin to glue the windows to the cabin. Ken Scott replied that they simply
do not know if it will work or not , but that they do know that Weld-On 10 does
work. I built a test sample by mixing west system epoxy and adding chopped
fibers to get a texture that didn't sag under its own weight. I alcohol cleaned
a strip of cabin top (it was trimmed away for the door) and a surplus strip
of side window Plexiglas. Both strips had been scuffed thoroughly with 120 grit
aluminum oxide. I used a liberal amount of epoxy to bond the 1 inch wide
strips for a 6 inch overlap. Light pressure was applied with three clothespin
type clamps. The piece cured for 24 hours at 70 degrees F and today I performed
a test of the sheer strength of the joint. The junction of the epoxy and the
Plexiglas failed when I applied some sharp raps with a light weight ball peen
hammer. I don't have subjective quantitative values for the amount of force
needed to break the joint, but the pieces came apart way too easily for me.
The junction of the epoxy and cabin top didn't fail under extreme chisel torture.
I'll do a similar test when i get my Plexiglas glue.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139344#139344
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator Code |
Hello Bob,
according ICAO your Glastar should be GLST (at least that is what I'm
using since 4 years).
and yes RV10 is in the database, to check
<http://www.icao.int/anb/ais/8643/index.cfm>
br Werner
Bob Newman wrote:
>
> I believe it will be either -hxa or -hxb where the a or b is the
> catagory approach speed. I know my slow Glastar is -hxa
>
>
>
>>>> taildragon(at)msn.com 10/10/2007 12:48 PM >>>
>>>>
>
> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight
> plan form)?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | First Flight N921AC |
Yesterday I flew our RV-10, N921AC, on it's maiden flight. Everything went
well. It was really a thrill. RV grin firmly affixed.
The only problems were an inaccurate fuel measurement (one of three methods)
and the usual rudder trim. Both easy fixes.
My wife flew a plane load of observers in Larry Baker's RV-10. It was nice
to have eight more eyes looking things over.
I'll post videos and details on our web site soon. Right now Phase I
testing takes priority!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
40394 Flying!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | spinner /cowl drop |
Congrats to first flights great stuff.
Those with flying RV10 's with 100 or more hours on there machines have they
noticed any drop of the spinner .
I didnt allow for any movement in our 6 and after 350 hour it didnt move
however the 10 is diferent so any movement guys and gals?
regards Chris 388
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spinner /cowl drop |
Should have looked under engine sag eh.....looks like 3/16 is the average.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 4:14 PM
Subject: RV10-List: spinner /cowl drop
>
>
> Congrats to first flights great stuff.
>
> Those with flying RV10 's with 100 or more hours on there machines have
> they noticed any drop of the spinner .
>
> I didnt allow for any movement in our 6 and after 350 hour it didnt move
> however the 10 is diferent so any movement guys and gals?
>
> regards Chris 388
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)suddenlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N921AC |
Way to go Dave!!! Always happy to see another 10 in the air.
Russ Daves
N710RV - #40043 - 172 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim access plate install |
| From: | "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero> |
Has anyone had installation issues with the elevator trim access
panels? I managed to thread the access panel with trim stop nut onto
the left elevator trim cable okay, but on the right elevator there is no
way there is enough clearance for the access panel and trip stop nut to
rotate around the trim cable housing to thread on.
I thought I could maybe drill out the rivets holding the trim stop nut
onto the access panel, thread the nut on separately, and then use some
small counter-sunk screws and nuts to attach the access panel after the
fact. Any other ideas?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | First Flight N921AC |
Great job, waiting on pictures.
Bob K
Assembling. Still
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 9:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: First Flight N921AC
Yesterday I flew our RV-10, N921AC, on it's maiden flight. Everything went
well. It was really a thrill. RV grin firmly affixed.
The only problems were an inaccurate fuel measurement (one of three methods)
and the usual rudder trim. Both easy fixes.
My wife flew a plane load of observers in Larry Baker's RV-10. It was nice
to have eight more eyes looking things over.
I'll post videos and details on our web site soon. Right now Phase I
testing takes priority!
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
40394 Flying!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | test patch - plexiglas glued to cabin top |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Did you do this same test using the Weld-on 10? I would be interested in
knowing how that one turns out.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of eagerlee
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 1:00 AM
Subject: RV10-List: test patch - plexiglas glued to cabin top
I sent an email request to the Van's builder support asking about the
use of epoxy resin to glue the windows to the cabin. Ken Scott replied
that they simply do not know if it will work or not , but that they do
know that Weld-On 10 does work. I built a test sample by mixing west
system epoxy and adding chopped fibers to get a texture that didn't sag
under its own weight. I alcohol cleaned a strip of cabin top (it was
trimmed away for the door) and a surplus strip of side window Plexiglas.
Both strips had been scuffed thoroughly with 120 grit aluminum oxide. I
used a liberal amount of epoxy to bond the 1 inch wide strips for a 6
inch overlap. Light pressure was applied with three clothespin type
clamps. The piece cured for 24 hours at 70 degrees F and today I
performed a test of the sheer strength of the joint. The junction of
the epoxy and the Plexiglas failed when I applied some sharp raps with a
light weight ball peen hammer. I don't have subjective quantitative
val!
ues for the amount of force needed to break the joint, but the pieces
came apart way too easily for me. The junction of the epoxy and cabin
top didn't fail under extreme chisel torture. I'll do a similar test
when i get my Plexiglas glue.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139344#139344
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trim access plate install |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
I bought the after market ones, I threaded them on and then attached
them with pop rivets, I figured it was easy enough to drill them out as
needed. I was going to install nut plates, but regardless of size I
could get an easy solution. I did think of making a mounting plate for
the anchor to attach to and then put nut plates on that to attach the
cover, then decided it was just easier to pop rivet.
Just my .02
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim access plate install
Has anyone had installation issues with the elevator trim access
panels? I managed to thread the access panel with trim stop nut onto
the left elevator trim cable okay, but on the right elevator there is no
way there is enough clearance for the access panel and trip stop nut to
rotate around the trim cable housing to thread on.
I thought I could maybe drill out the rivets holding the trim stop nut
onto the access panel, thread the nut on separately, and then use some
small counter-sunk screws and nuts to attach the access panel after the
fact. Any other ideas?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Trim access plate install |
I just completed my final assembly and had to drill out the rivets and screw
it on. Had to do it twice, since the first time I could not adjust for the
35 degrees. The second time I used clecos to hold the plate on while I did
the adjustment and then put the rivets back on when I was done.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
40322
801-721-6080
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 6:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim access plate install
Has anyone had installation issues with the elevator trim access panels? I
managed to thread the access panel with trim stop nut onto the left elevator
trim cable okay, but on the right elevator there is no way there is enough
clearance for the access panel and trip stop nut to rotate around the trim
cable housing to thread on.
I thought I could maybe drill out the rivets holding the trim stop nut onto
the access panel, thread the nut on separately, and then use some small
counter-sunk screws and nuts to attach the access panel after the fact. Any
other ideas?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator Code |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
DUATS still does not accept RV10, I had to use HXB when filing via DUATS
on my way to 5T6 this past weekend.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
Yup..... RV10 ;)
In the olden days, like last year, we had to use HXB, which
is homebuilt experimental, with a B speed range. Now
we can use RV10.
Tim
Roger Standley wrote:
>
> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight
plan
> form)?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator Code |
| From: | "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Weird that DUATS doesn't and DUAT does. I didn't have good luck
filing a couple times with Golden Eagle (DUATS), but today I filed
with Voyager (DUAT) and it took it right away and within an hour
I was in air picking up a clearance to Atlanta. I filed as RV10/G.
Pretty nice day. I flew LOP for a while at 9K, and then took a
brief stint at ROP. I gained an easy 10kts over my LOP flight
phase, but it sure changes the range....so a couple minutes I was
kicked back again in the low 160's with flows around 10gph.
Tim
>
>
> DUATS still does not accept RV10, I had to use HXB when filing via DUATS
> on my way to 5T6 this past weekend.
>
>
> Thank You
> Ray Doerr
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:24 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
>
>
> Yup..... RV10 ;)
>
> In the olden days, like last year, we had to use HXB, which
> is homebuilt experimental, with a B speed range. Now
> we can use RV10.
> Tim
>
>
> Roger Standley wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight
> plan
>> form)?
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Trim access plate install |
Just as the other responses I've opted for pop rivets and have had to drill
them out to remove the elevator. Hopefully it's for the last time as the
bird is in the paint shop. One consideration, although I'm not convinced it
will work, is to tap the holes for screws if you have the aftermarket
versions. They are great and I wonder if there's enough material to make
that work since they are a little thicker.
Just a thought, I don't have access to the airplane right now to validate
it.
Marcus
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Dawson-Townsend,Timothy
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 7:31 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Trim access plate install
Has anyone had installation issues with the elevator trim access panels? I
managed to thread the access panel with trim stop nut onto the left elevator
trim cable okay, but on the right elevator there is no way there is enough
clearance for the access panel and trip stop nut to rotate around the trim
cable housing to thread on.
I thought I could maybe drill out the rivets holding the trim stop nut onto
the access panel, thread the nut on separately, and then use some small
counter-sunk screws and nuts to attach the access panel after the fact. Any
other ideas?
TDT
Tim Dawson-Townsend
tdt(at)aurora.aero
617-500-4812 (office)
617-905-4800 (mobile)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator Code |
Tim: Rumor has it that you will be in Maine this coming weekend. If that
is true we would love to take you and yours for a lobstah' dinnah'. We are
free all weekend. Could fly into either AUG or WVL. Home phone is 207 395
2842 and cell is 207 322 6167. Jay Rowe #40301 (working on the cowling).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
To:
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 6:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
>
> Weird that DUATS doesn't and DUAT does. I didn't have good luck
> filing a couple times with Golden Eagle (DUATS), but today I filed
> with Voyager (DUAT) and it took it right away and within an hour
> I was in air picking up a clearance to Atlanta. I filed as RV10/G.
> Pretty nice day. I flew LOP for a while at 9K, and then took a
> brief stint at ROP. I gained an easy 10kts over my LOP flight
> phase, but it sure changes the range....so a couple minutes I was
> kicked back again in the low 160's with flows around 10gph.
>
> Tim
>
>>
>>
>> DUATS still does not accept RV10, I had to use HXB when filing via
DUATS
>> on my way to 5T6 this past weekend.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thank You
>> Ray Doerr
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:24 PM
>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
>>
>>
>> Yup..... RV10 ;)
>>
>> In the olden days, like last year, we had to use HXB, which
>> is homebuilt experimental, with a B speed range. Now
>> we can use RV10.
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> Roger Standley wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight
>> plan
>>> form)?
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
10/11/2007 9:11 AM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Selection & Location |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
RobHickman(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I attached the latest panel drawing.
> Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems
> N401RH RV-4 (500+ hours)
> N402RH RV-10 Mounting Antenna's and trying to get the doors to fit.
Rob,
Did the drawing get deleted? I am not seeing it or any link. Very interested
in seeing it as we talked a couple days ago about all of this.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139511#139511
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Vertical Stabiliser Mounted Whip Type VOR Antenna |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Stabiliser Mounted Whip Type VOR Antenna |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi Pat,
I think Wayne Edgerton has this type of antenna.
check out is pictures
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=32993
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139525#139525
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight N921ACFirst Flight N921AC |
I saw on Van's site or in RVator, I can't remember which, that the
flying RV10's are over 100 now.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers) |
Dan,
I noticed something interesting on Van's personal RV-10 at the homecoming
this year in Independence, OR. He must have flown through some moisture on
the way cause there were some small water spots on the plane.
The fuselage had a distinct line of grime on it about 6 or 8 inches above
the wing root in the exact shape of the wing itself. This gives you a
pretty good indication of the way air flows in that area. I don't know
anything about aerodynamics to comment as to what it means but I thought you
might be interested in this.
Attached is a snippet from a picture I took of Van's plane with the faint
line on it.
-Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel R.
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 5:55 AM
Subject: RE: Call for data (used to be RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo numbers)
I would agree on the WOT and the plate blocking air flow, and this is
not only true on carb engines but also injected engines. The Subaru is
flown wide open throttle, IE we do not set power based on throttle,
rather we change the pitch of the blade to set RPM which in turn
controls the engine/throttle. During take off we watch boost pressure
for the turbo, but once established in a climb we use the prop and leave
the throttle wide open for no restrictions.
It will be very interesting to see the data start to come in for all of
the different 10's. I would think we need to develop a standard spread
sheet that we can publish, and just have each flyer fill in the blanks
for the data. This spreadsheet should be developed by the collective so
we can get what the majority wants to see and we can start graphing
differences between modifications and such.
Myself, I have started to look at designing a molded fairing for the
wing root, that will ease the transition there and attach to the root
gap fairing. I have always been interested in why some airliners have
them and some don't, and have been reading a bunch about them. But still
have no clue on how to determine what is needed to make one flow
correctly. I also have started fairings for flap hinges.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dan's H6Turbo numbers) |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Nice catch this would be interesting to tuft these areas and see what is
going on with it.
THX for the pic
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 11:05 AM
Subject: RE: Call for data (used to be RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo
numbers)
Dan,
I noticed something interesting on Van's personal RV-10 at the
homecoming
this year in Independence, OR. He must have flown through some moisture
on
the way cause there were some small water spots on the plane.
The fuselage had a distinct line of grime on it about 6 or 8 inches
above
the wing root in the exact shape of the wing itself. This gives you a
pretty good indication of the way air flows in that area. I don't know
anything about aerodynamics to comment as to what it means but I thought
you
might be interested in this.
Attached is a snippet from a picture I took of Van's plane with the
faint
line on it.
-Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lloyd, Daniel
R.
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 5:55 AM
Subject: RE: Call for data (used to be RE: RV10-List: Dan's H6Turbo
numbers)
I would agree on the WOT and the plate blocking air flow, and this is
not only true on carb engines but also injected engines. The Subaru is
flown wide open throttle, IE we do not set power based on throttle,
rather we change the pitch of the blade to set RPM which in turn
controls the engine/throttle. During take off we watch boost pressure
for the turbo, but once established in a climb we use the prop and leave
the throttle wide open for no restrictions.
It will be very interesting to see the data start to come in for all of
the different 10's. I would think we need to develop a standard spread
sheet that we can publish, and just have each flyer fill in the blanks
for the data. This spreadsheet should be developed by the collective so
we can get what the majority wants to see and we can start graphing
differences between modifications and such.
Myself, I have started to look at designing a molded fairing for the
wing root, that will ease the transition there and attach to the root
gap fairing. I have always been interested in why some airliners have
them and some don't, and have been reading a bunch about them. But still
have no clue on how to determine what is needed to make one flow
correctly. I also have started fairings for flap hinges.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator Code |
Alaska! That's always been on my 'places to fly' list (August is
usually the better weather month) count me in, assuming I actually
complete this thing before then !! :-\
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
> Speaking of all 49 Mainland states, the SOCAL guys and gals are planning
> a trip for Alaska in early July next year.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alaska 2008 was Aircraft Designator Code |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Serendipity... my parents are planning a summer 2008 Alaska trip and
asked me if I'd like to join up. If I'm flying by then, I'm down to go!
maybe gives me something to shoot fer...
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
Alaska! That's always been on my 'places to fly' list (August is
usually the better weather month) count me in, assuming I actually
complete this thing before then !! :-\
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
> Speaking of all 49 Mainland states, the SOCAL guys and gals are
planning
> a trip for Alaska in early July next year.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator Code |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I sent Duats an Email and they said they have now added the
RV10.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
Mr.Doerr,
Your request to add aircraft type RV10 (Van's) is now available.
Thank you
Robert O. Street
CSC Duats
Asst Database Manager
Chantilly, Va 20151
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 11:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
DUATS still does not accept RV10, I had to use HXB when filing via DUATS
on my way to 5T6 this past weekend.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
Yup..... RV10 ;)
In the olden days, like last year, we had to use HXB, which
is homebuilt experimental, with a B speed range. Now
we can use RV10.
Tim
Roger Standley wrote:
>
> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight
plan
> form)?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator Code |
Deems,
How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to Ala
ska............return to Portland in time for Van's Homecoming..........
..then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a few to bite on that j
ourney!
Dean 805HL
110.4 hours
_____________________________________________________________
Senior Dating Online. Click Now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iig7piSn006Y1fkPcGhQLEJ
ospedsTRGLjT80dvHokeKHTZkY/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator Code |
Great work Ray. I was taking the route through Vans for some reason
thinking it was a FAA thing and got nowhere. Thanks for your effort.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:17 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
I sent Duats an Email and they said they have now added the
RV10.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
Mr.Doerr,
Your request to add aircraft type RV10 (Van's) is now available.
Thank you
Robert O. Street
CSC Duats
Asst Database Manager
Chantilly, Va 20151
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 11:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
DUATS still does not accept RV10, I had to use HXB when filing via DUATS
on my way to 5T6 this past weekend.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator Code
Yup..... RV10 ;)
In the olden days, like last year, we had to use HXB, which
is homebuilt experimental, with a B speed range. Now
we can use RV10.
Tim
Roger Standley wrote:
>
> Does anyone remember the RV-10 Aircraft Designator Code (for flight
plan
> form)?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator Code |
IMHO, having learned to fly in Fairbanks, and spending 22 years there
accumulating ~800 flying hours, August is not the best month to go. Usually
rainier than average. August is duck hunting season, with low fog in river
areas common. June and Sept are the drier months, Sept. has much less
mosquitos competing for the airspace. July and Aug are peak tourist months,
highest prices and competition for motel rooms. Keep an eye on forest fire
predictions as well, as that can cause IFR conditions as much as clouds.
However, whenever you go, keep in mind that typical visibility under
whatever ceiling exists will be 40-80 miles, except under fire smoke
conditions. So low level flying following roads or rivers is safer than
elsewhere, as long as power lines and the rare radio towers are avoided.
Figure last frost around Memorial Day...snow drifts in mountainous areas
well into June. 1st frost and or snow can arrive mid-Sept. Weather along the
Alaska Highway definitely turns nasty by early-mid Oct.
On 10/12/07, Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> Alaska! That's always been on my 'places to fly' list (August is
> usually the better weather month) count me in, assuming I actually
> complete this thing before then !! :-\
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
> Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
> LloydDR(at)wernerco.com>
> >
> > Speaking of all 49 Mainland states, the SOCAL guys and gals are planning
> > a trip for Alaska in early July next year.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dan's H6Turbo numbers) |
Actually, at least for Bendix fuel injected engines, and probably TCM
injection as well, WOT will give you just as good mixing and power, if
not better than throttle back a bit. Reason is that carburetors have a
power enrichment circuit to get a rich enough full power mixture. FI
engines don't need that as they match mixture to airflow very well. Also
fuel is inserted at intake port rather than before the throttle. So
retarding throttle to get out of the enrichment circuit helps mixture
distribution on carbed engines.
Lloyd, Daniel R. wrote:
>
> I would agree on the WOT and the plate blocking air flow, and this is
> not only true on carb engines but also injected engines. The Subaru is
> flown wide open throttle, IE we do not set power based on throttle,
> rather we change the pitch of the blade to set RPM which in turn
> controls the engine/throttle. During take off we watch boost pressure
> for the turbo, but once established in a climb we use the prop and leave
> the throttle wide open for no restrictions.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Stabiliser Mounted Whip Type VOR Antenna |
| From: | "Patrick Pulis" <patrick.pulis(at)seagas.com.au> |
Thanks for that - well done that man.
Regards
Pat
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Wellenzohn [mailto:rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net]
Sent: Friday, 12 October 2007 6:44 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vertical Stabiliser Mounted Whip Type VOR
Antenna
-->
Hi Pat,
I think Wayne Edgerton has this type of antenna.
check out is pictures
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=32993
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139525#139525
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "plevenda(at)jvlv.lv" <paulevenda(at)mac.com> |
Hey fellow builders and flyers. My name is Paul Levenda and I'm a new builder in
AZ. I first of all want to thank all you who have been contributing to this
forum. I had several months to just browse the forum before building, and my head
is swimming in all the great information given by those of you who have blazed
a great trail for us young ones following behind.
My question has to do with the much talked about rudder trim. I have seen Vic's,
and I've seen the other comments on the forum, but I have talked with an A&P
buddy about installing a rudder trim simular to a regular electric trim tab you
see mostly on twins. I am at a stage where my rudder is still in two halves
so I want to look at this possiblilty now. I'm thinking I could cut and build
a trim tab between two sets of stiffeners and then install the Ray Allen servo
as Vic did. I do not want do any thing drastic until I have my A&P friend come
look at my plan, but I wanted to see what thoughts the Matronics group might
have as well.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139699#139699
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Designator CodeAircraft Designator Code |
Hello Dan,
I am planning on flying to Alaska next summer and had originally planned
on making the trip on my own but saw a group that organizes guided
flying trips through Alaska and decided to sign up for that. I figured
I'll get to see a little more of the country side with a lot less work
for me with an experienced guide leading the pack.
Their web site is www.letsflyalaska.com
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "dherring10" <dherring10(at)suddenlink.net> |
Paul,
I installed one just like Vic did but when I was at Sun-n-Fun this year I saw the
one Jesse Saint used on one of his planes. I liked it a little better because
it was smaller and installed lower on the rudder below the elevator. Maybe
Jesse will post some pictures for you if you ask him.
I do know if you are going to install one it will be much easier to do it before
you put the rudder together.
Dwayne Herring
40506
QB fuse (about to start the fiberglass work, Yuk!)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139732#139732
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rene" <rene(at)felker.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder trim input needed |
Look at this ref, but I stole Vic's idea, will let you know how it works
once I am flying.....
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=90306#90306
Rene'
40322
N423CF
Finish......ing
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of plevenda(at)jvlv.lv
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 1:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim input needed
Hey fellow builders and flyers. My name is Paul Levenda and I'm a new
builder in AZ. I first of all want to thank all you who have been
contributing to this forum. I had several months to just browse the forum
before building, and my head is swimming in all the great information given
by those of you who have blazed a great trail for us young ones following
behind.
My question has to do with the much talked about rudder trim. I have seen
Vic's, and I've seen the other comments on the forum, but I have talked with
an A&P buddy about installing a rudder trim simular to a regular electric
trim tab you see mostly on twins. I am at a stage where my rudder is still
in two halves so I want to look at this possiblilty now. I'm thinking I
could cut and build a trim tab between two sets of stiffeners and then
install the Ray Allen servo as Vic did. I do not want do any thing drastic
until I have my A&P friend come look at my plan, but I wanted to see what
thoughts the Matronics group might have as well.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139699#139699
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
You may find your self wondering how good a value you got when you see
how easy flying to Alaska is along the Alaska Highway.
If you like having the details handled by someone else and traveling in
a group, it may be fine. Just remember that the Highway was built to
ferry planes to the Russian front, going to Fairbanks and then handed
off to the Russians. Many of the planes with short range, flown by
WASPs, bless them. So landing spots are frequent, most are paved these
days, there are both low freq NDB airways and victor airways. Highest
elevation on the road is 4500 ft. Weather reporting is the weak link, so
you have to use your own judgment and be willing to turn around, or go
up on top IFR. Yes there are high mountains relatively close to the
route, but really not a factor if you follow the road.
Wayne Edgerton wrote:
> Hello Dan,
>
> I am planning on flying to Alaska next summer and had originally
> planned on making the trip on my own but saw a group that organizes
> guided flying trips through Alaska and decided to sign up for that. I
> figured I'll get to see a little more of the country side with a lot
> less work for me with an experienced guide leading the pack.
>
> Their web site is www.letsflyalaska.com <http://www.letsflyalaska.com/>
> Wayne Edgerton N602WT
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <millstees(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator CodeAircraft Designator Code |
Hello All
I flew my Arrow to Alaska a few years back. My route from Chicago was
Winnepeg - Edmunton - Ft. St. John - Watson Lake - Northway - Fairbanks -
Anchorage - Ketchikan - Vancouver - Chicago. We did lots of side trips,
flying out of Fairbanks and Anchorage. We went in late June, and got back
early July...a total of 65 hours of flying time, and only about 4 hours of
IFR. What a great trip. Getting around was easy; no GPS, just loran which
ended at the Canadian border; in the mountains, we just followed tha
Alaskan Highway. Every airport has a campground attached except Anchorage.
I think I can contribute lots of good tips to anyone interested...especially
the side trips, so whomever is interested, can contact me off line.
Steve Mills N750SM (reserved)
RV-10 40486 Slow-build Eggenfellner E-6T
Naperville, Illinois
Finishing kit
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator CodeAircraft Designator Code
Hello Dan,
I am planning on flying to Alaska next summer and had originally planned on
making the trip on my own but saw a group that organizes guided flying trips
through Alaska and decided to sign up for that. I figured I'll get to see a
little more of the country side with a lot less work for me with an
experienced guide leading the pack.
Their web site is <http://www.letsflyalaska.com/> www.letsflyalaska.com
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "plevenda(at)jvlv.lv" <paulevenda(at)mac.com> |
Thanks for the input. I have viewed a few threads on rudder trim before, but after
doing a search on "Aerotrim", I have found that there has been a lot more
talk on adjustable rudder trim that I missed in the past. Again, a lot of good
information, thanks.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139754#139754
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Why to use Vans fuel filter when using Andair gascolator? |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
I want to use the Andair Gascolator (GAS375) and wonder if the Vans fuel filter
is still required.
How many times do you need to have access to the tunnel? If I want to go with a
center console the access will be rather difficult.
Best regards
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139757#139757
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Why to use Vans fuel filter when using Andair gascolator? |
Micheal, I have a center console as well. I think Scott Schmidt was the
1st to post his solution. (i.e a side tunnel access panel ). Most I've
seen have put them on the copilot side. I had to put mine on the pilot
side due to interference with a fuel return line.
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC05413.html
http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%20The%20Home%20Stretch/slides/DSC05414.html
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I want to use the Andair Gascolator (GAS375) and wonder if the Vans fuel filter
is still required.
>
> How many times do you need to have access to the tunnel? If I want to go with
a center console the access will be rather difficult.
>
> Best regards
> Michael
>
> www.wellenzohn.net
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (fuselage)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139757#139757
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Rudder trim input needed |
We are working on a system exactly like this. Let me know if you come up
with something and I'll do the same.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: plevenda(at)jvlv.lv [mailto:paulevenda(at)mac.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 2:22 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rudder trim input needed
Hey fellow builders and flyers. My name is Paul Levenda and I'm a new
builder in AZ. I first of all want to thank all you who have been
contributing to this forum. I had several months to just browse the forum
before building, and my head is swimming in all the great information given
by those of you who have blazed a great trail for us young ones following
behind.
My question has to do with the much talked about rudder trim. I have seen
Vic's, and I've seen the other comments on the forum, but I have talked with
an A&P buddy about installing a rudder trim simular to a regular electric
trim tab you see mostly on twins. I am at a stage where my rudder is still
in two halves so I want to look at this possiblilty now. I'm thinking I
could cut and build a trim tab between two sets of stiffeners and then
install the Ray Allen servo as Vic did. I do not want do any thing drastic
until I have my A&P friend come look at my plan, but I wanted to see what
thoughts the Matronics group might have as well.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139699#139699
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Why to use Vans fuel filter when using Andair gascolator? |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Does the tunnel have no structural role at all?
Cutting access holes will not make it stronger. And I believe I'd have to show
this a major modification from the original plans to the authorities.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139770#139770
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antenna Selection & Location |
"We are about to release a smart dimmer module that will enable the
AF-3500 EFIS to control external lighting circuits from the EFIS"
being I am one of those getting the dual 3500 please keep us informed on
any updates you make.
Thanks!
Pascal
----- Original Message -----
From: RobHickman(at)aol.com
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antenna Selection & Location
I just received my Garmin 430W and the GA-35 is included with it.
This is perfect timing, I was just getting ready to install all the
antenna's and you have exactly what I do.
I attached the latest panel drawing. It is being laser cut and I
should have it later this week. The only change I am going to make is
that I no longer need the three dimmer knobs. We are about to release a
smart dimmer module that will enable the AF-3500 EFIS to control
external lighting circuits from the EFIS.
Rob Hickman Advanced Flight Systems
N401RH RV-4 (500+ hours)
N402RH RV-10 Mounting Antenna's and trying to get the doors to fit.
| Date: | Oct 13, 2007 |
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Why to use Vans fuel filter when using Andair gascolator? |
I'm sure there is some structural property to the tunnel, however the
sides are unsupported/reinforced, with the doubler installed and the
nutplates & screws holding the dimpled cover in place, Im my not so
humble and non-engineered opinion it is as strong or stronger than the
original. I recall a previous post where someone contacted Van's about
the structural properties of the tunnel. IIRC the response was that it
wasn't much.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Does the tunnel have no structural role at all?
>
> Cutting access holes will not make it stronger. And I believe I'd have to show
this a major modification from the original plans to the authorities.
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (fuselage)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139770#139770
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08 |
Dean, That's got some potential:
Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.
A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!
B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates, duration,
route, etc.)
For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions
1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good
idea if I can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary to make
the trip
2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ?
3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ?
This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and response we
can modify.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Deems,
>
> How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to
> Alaska............return to Portland in time for Van's
> Homecoming............then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a
> few to bite on that journey!
>
> Dean 805HL
>
> 110.4 hours
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Senior Dating Online. Click Now!
> <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iig7piSn006Y1fkPcGhQLEJospedsTRGLjT80dvHokeKHTZkY/>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cram" <johncram(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
So Paul you and kit # 90? If you are new maybe 40790?
John Cram
40569
----- Original Message -----
From: plevenda(at)jvlv.lv<mailto:plevenda(at)jvlv.lv>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 8:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
"plevenda(at)jvlv.lv"
>
Thanks for the input. I have viewed a few threads on rudder trim
before, but after doing a search on "Aerotrim", I have found that there
has been a lot more talk on adjustable rudder trim that I missed in the
past. Again, a lot of good information, thanks.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139754#139754
matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139754#139754>
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
igator?RV10-List>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages |
While doing transition training, the plane we flew was equipped with a
digital EMS. There was a pretty significant delay between the actual
throttle and prop changes made with the controls and the recording and
display of the results on the digital/graphic MP and RPM gages. By
'significant' I mean enough so that If you were attempting to use the
gages in real time to go from full throttle /RPM to cruise settings I
would consistently 'overshoot' the desired setting because of the 'lag'
in these instruments. For small adjustments the 'lag' was not as big an
issue. After 8.1 hours, I got a little better as estimating the
settings and then waiting for the gages to 'catch-up' but I still found
it annoying and distracting.
Mike S. said that ALL EFIS, EMS systems he has flown have the same issue
and it's one of the reasons he prefers steam gages. I'm not flying yet
so I don't know what I'll get with my OP's but I hadn't anticipated the
delay/lag that it looks like I'll probably have.
So for those of you flying, with the Cheltons , GRT's, AFS.
Inquiring minds want to know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08 |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
I'd like to go...put me down as a "2".? Can I make the trip in a Glasair III??
Are most Alaska strips?considered rough fields?? Sounds like fun!
Jeff
-----Original Message-----
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Sent: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 2:28 pm
Subject: RV10-List: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08
?
Dean, That's got some potential: ?
Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.?
?
A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!?
B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates, duration, route,
etc.)?
?
For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions?
?
1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good idea if I
can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary to make the trip?
?
2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ??
?
3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ??
?
This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and response we can modify.?
?
Deems Davis # 406?
'Its all done....Its just not put together'?
http://deemsrv10.com/?
?
?
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:?
>?
> Deems,?
>?
> How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to > Alaska............return
to Portland in time for Van's > Homecoming............then
a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a > few to bite on that journey!?
>?
> Dean 805HL?
>?
> 110.4 hours?
>?
>?
>?
> _____________________________________________________________?
> Senior Dating Online. Click Now! > <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iig7piSn006Y1fkPcGhQLEJospedsTRGLjT80dvHokeKHTZkY/>?
> *?
>?
>?
> *?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages |
In the 200 hours I have on my Grand Rapids EIS I haven't detected any
noticeable lag or delay.
Marcus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages
While doing transition training, the plane we flew was equipped with a
digital EMS. There was a pretty significant delay between the actual
throttle and prop changes made with the controls and the recording and
display of the results on the digital/graphic MP and RPM gages. By
'significant' I mean enough so that If you were attempting to use the
gages in real time to go from full throttle /RPM to cruise settings I
would consistently 'overshoot' the desired setting because of the 'lag'
in these instruments. For small adjustments the 'lag' was not as big an
issue. After 8.1 hours, I got a little better as estimating the
settings and then waiting for the gages to 'catch-up' but I still found
it annoying and distracting.
Mike S. said that ALL EFIS, EMS systems he has flown have the same issue
and it's one of the reasons he prefers steam gages. I'm not flying yet
so I don't know what I'll get with my OP's but I hadn't anticipated the
delay/lag that it looks like I'll probably have.
So for those of you flying, with the Cheltons , GRT's, AFS.
Inquiring minds want to know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Corrosion - To Prime or Not To Prime? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Patrick,
I would agree that the nutplates need something for long term corrosion protection.
I noticed someone mentioned Lithium Grease. I used to use Lithium Grease
on everything on my house on Kauai until I discovered (to my horror) that the
salt air was actually condensing on it and slowly embedding salt crystals into
it. I actually had well greased metal rusting underneath the grease. The crystals
had worked their way down to the metal.
Priming nutplates probably won't do much good, since the screws and other activity
around them will probably do a good job of removing it.
I would suggest Boeshield T-9. It's similar to ACF-50 but it has a waxy consistency.
There is a similar product that I'm pleased with for the regular market
called Bullfrog Rust Inhibitor. I've never looked into it but I wouldn't be surprised
if the Bullfrog product is simply Boeshield T-9.
On the threads, I agree with the others that they need to be clean of any lubricant
that might help them back off. Locktite works great.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse coming
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139821#139821
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aircraft Designator CodeAircraft Designator Code |
| From: | "Lloyd, Daniel R." <LloydDR(at)wernerco.com> |
Yeah I saw a bunch of sites that organize trips and I think it would be
great for a bunch of RV10 drivers to go together, then the SO_CAL RV
list stated to talk about going in July and they want as many RV flyers
as possible. I would recommend any of us that are wanting to go to join
the yahoo group for SO_CAL and piggy back with them. I think it would be
a great time to go and everyone I have talked with loves it.
Dan
N289DT RV10E Flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne
Edgerton
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 9:11 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aircraft Designator CodeAircraft
Designator Code
Hello Dan,
I am planning on flying to Alaska next summer and had originally
planned on making the trip on my own but saw a group that organizes
guided flying trips through Alaska and decided to sign up for that. I
figured I'll get to see a little more of the country side with a lot
less work for me with an experienced guide leading the pack.
Their web site is www.letsflyalaska.com
<http://www.letsflyalaska.com/>
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer |
'08
I would be a 2-3 for a 2 week trip but unfortunately the earliest I could possibly
make it would be a Sept 09. Seriously doubt I'll be ready next year yet.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 1:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08
Dean, That's got some potential:
Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.
A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!
B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates, duration,
route, etc.)
For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions
1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good
idea if I can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary to make
the trip
2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ?
3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ?
This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and response we
can modify.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Deems,
>
> How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to
> Alaska............return to Portland in time for Van's
> Homecoming............then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a
> few to bite on that journey!
>
> Dean 805HL
>
> 110.4 hours
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Senior Dating Online. Click Now!
> <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iig7piSn006Y1fkPcGhQLEJospedsTRGLjT80dvHokeKHTZkY/>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
Paul
Below is a link to Tim Olson's site which has pictures of the rudder trim
system used by Vic Syracuse on his -10.
http://myrv10.com/tips/mods/RudderTrim/index.html
I have shamelessly stolen his design and used it on my -10 (which is still
in bits in my garage). The major difference between Vic's and mine is that I
have placed the servo lower on the rudder and made the trim tab a bit
smaller.
I will l know in about 18 months how well it works.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of plevenda(at)jvlv.lv
Sent: October-13-07 9:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
Thanks for the input. I have viewed a few threads on rudder trim before, but
after doing a search on "Aerotrim", I have found that there has been a lot
more talk on adjustable rudder trim that I missed in the past. Again, a lot
of good information, thanks.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139754#139754
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate Corrosion - To Prime or Not To Prime? |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Try soaking the screws after spraying them with LPS3 in a paper cup
before insertion into the nutplates.
John Cox
40600
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 6:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nutplate Corrosion - To Prime or Not To Prime?
Patrick,
I would agree that the nutplates need something for long term corrosion
protection. I noticed someone mentioned Lithium Grease. I used to use
Lithium Grease on everything on my house on Kauai until I discovered (to
my horror) that the salt air was actually condensing on it and slowly
embedding salt crystals into it. I actually had well greased metal
rusting underneath the grease. The crystals had worked their way down to
the metal.
Priming nutplates probably won't do much good, since the screws and
other activity around them will probably do a good job of removing it.
I would suggest Boeshield T-9. It's similar to ACF-50 but it has a waxy
consistency. There is a similar product that I'm pleased with for the
regular market called Bullfrog Rust Inhibitor. I've never looked into it
but I wouldn't be surprised if the Bullfrog product is simply Boeshield
T-9.
On the threads, I agree with the others that they need to be clean of
any lubricant that might help them back off. Locktite works great.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse coming
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139821#139821
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com> |
Paul
I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the attached pictures
of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer. Hope they help.
--------
Bill (and Jon) Reining
40514
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
Deems and I are working on a rudder trim system that will deploy a flush tab (similar
to airline speed brake) into the slip stream on each side of the rudder.
I have a rough sketch not worthy of posting yet but I'm sure we will keep the
list informed as it develops. One thing for sure, it will be a bunch easier
to so during assembly than after the fact but we are working on the after the
fact version. I already have the aircraft and panel wired for it, it's on the
back burner until I can get the canopy top final riveted. Look for for a good
drawing and some pics in about two weeks. It will use the Ray Allen servo. It
works on paper, just need to carefully start the layout and see where and how
to fit it. The plan is for the control to be tray mounted to allow access to the
servo and linkage and the actual control surfaces will be mounted using hinges,
nutplates and screws. The weight should be equivilent to Vic's setup. Of
course there will be a need to balance the rudder afterwards to make sure there
isn't a flutter issue with the extra weight built into the control surface.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34:28 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
Paul
I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the attached pictures
of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer. Hope they help.
--------
Bill (and Jon) Reining
40514
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
And now for something completely different.
My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The Van's
aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no one has
considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal 177RG uses
a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar fully mechanical
spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that applies
(or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder trim.
The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may be usable
for the rudder trim.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> Deems and I are working on a rudder trim system that will deploy a flush tab
(similar to airline speed brake) into the slip stream on each side of the rudder.
I have a rough sketch not worthy of posting yet but I'm sure we will keep
the list informed as it develops. One thing for sure, it will be a bunch easier
to so during assembly than after the fact but we are working on the after the
fact version. I already have the aircraft and panel wired for it, it's on the
back burner until I can get the canopy top final riveted. Look for for a good
drawing and some pics in about two weeks. It will use the Ray Allen servo. It
works on paper, just need to carefully start the layout and see where and how
to fit it. The plan is for the control to be tray mounted to allow access to
the servo and linkage and the actual control surfaces will be mounted using hinges,
nutplates and screws. The weight should be equivilent to Vic's setup. Of
course there will be a need to balance the rudder af!
> terwards to make sure there isn't a flutter issue with the extra weight built
into the control surface.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34:28 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
> Paul
> I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the attached
pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer. Hope they help.
>
> --------
> Bill (and Jon) Reining
> 40514
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
I am curious if anyone has given any thought to a system that applies forces
to the cables without any external tabs? It seems to me the cables could be
cut into two pieces somewhere in the tailcone or tunnel and some sort of
linkage could be created so that the pedals are always neutral but the rear
half of the cables that are attached to the rudder could be offset such that
they make the rudder move a few degrees either direction.
I have a few ideas of some systems but I don't have a clue as to what would
work or where to start. Just curios what other people have thought of?
-Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Reining
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
Paul
I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the
attached pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer.
Hope they help.
--------
Bill (and Jon) Reining
40514
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
The Rvator had a manual system for the -6 a few years back that involved springs
and pulleys, basically as you turned the knob, it would apply tension to one
or the other spring to move the rudder left or right. It is similar to the RV-10
aileron trim. I drew several different variations but the reason for not doing
it came down to one main reason...adding more potentential failure points
that would or could cause catastrophic rudder failure. Honestly, Vic's system
is very simple, if it fails at any point it shouldn't really be an issue of flight.
I am still sold on that version but will try to reinvent the wheel. The
method we are working on does use springs to keeep the tabs closed, the trim
servo overrides the spring pressure. If it fails it will either keep the trim
at it's last point, or the tab will close. Either way I guesstimate that the forces
will not be significant enough that I can't use my two foot pounds of pressure
to keep it straight.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 12:01:43 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
I am curious if anyone has given any thought to a system that applies forces
to the cables without any external tabs? It seems to me the cables could be
cut into two pieces somewhere in the tailcone or tunnel and some sort of
linkage could be created so that the pedals are always neutral but the rear
half of the cables that are attached to the rudder could be offset such that
they make the rudder move a few degrees either direction.
I have a few ideas of some systems but I don't have a clue as to what would
work or where to start. Just curios what other people have thought of?
-Ben
40579
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Reining
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
Paul
I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the
attached pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer.
Hope they help.
--------
Bill (and Jon) Reining
40514
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
Wish I had read your post first before posting mine William, could have saved me
a few lines in my message. Please share you ideas as they develop. My main concern
was springs that were able to provide enough travel and still maintain
their springyness and not be so strong that they would wear your legs out but
strong enough to hold position on the rudder. I toyed with ways to attach the
system to the cables instead of cutting the cables and installing the aprings
inbetween, what say you?
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:50:27 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
And now for something completely different.
My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The Van's
aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no one has
considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal 177RG uses
a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar fully mechanical
spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that applies
(or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder trim.
The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may be usable
for the rudder trim.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> Deems and I are working on a rudder trim system that will deploy a flush tab
(similar to airline speed brake) into the slip stream on each side of the rudder.
I have a rough sketch not worthy of posting yet but I'm sure we will keep
the list informed as it develops. One thing for sure, it will be a bunch easier
to so during assembly than after the fact but we are working on the after the
fact version. I already have the aircraft and panel wired for it, it's on the
back burner until I can get the canopy top final riveted. Look for for a good
drawing and some pics in about two weeks. It will use the Ray Allen servo. It
works on paper, just need to carefully start the layout and see where and how
to fit it. The plan is for the control to be tray mounted to allow access to
the servo and linkage and the actual control surfaces will be mounted using hinges,
nutplates and screws. The weight should be equivilent to Vic's setup. Of
course there will be a need to balance the rudder !
af!
> terwards to make sure there isn't a flutter issue with the extra weight built
into the control surface.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34:28 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
> Paul
> I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the attached
pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer. Hope they help.
>
> --------
> Bill (and Jon) Reining
> 40514
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marcus Cooper" <coop85(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
FWIW, I too had considered a spring system for the rudder trim. Part of the
problem is it's not a closed loop system so at first look you'd have to have
a system that works both sides. One thing I considered is that since you
usually only have to hold right rudder in you could just but a spring on
that side to hold some tension pulling on the right side at various amounts.
The amount of throw threw me off though and I finally caved and put a tab on
the rudder that I operate through a push/pull cable to a knob in the
cockpit. Honestly it's not the prettiest setup so I may redo it down the
road, but it cost next to nothing and it works great.
Marcus
Picking it up from the paintshop next weekend!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
Wish I had read your post first before posting mine William, could have
saved me a few lines in my message. Please share you ideas as they develop.
My main concern was springs that were able to provide enough travel and
still maintain their springyness and not be so strong that they would wear
your legs out but strong enough to hold position on the rudder. I toyed with
ways to attach the system to the cables instead of cutting the cables and
installing the aprings inbetween, what say you?
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:50:27 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
And now for something completely different.
My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The
Van's aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no
one has considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal
177RG uses a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar
fully mechanical spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that
applies (or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder
trim. The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may
be usable for the rudder trim.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> Deems and I are working on a rudder trim system that will deploy a flush
tab (similar to airline speed brake) into the slip stream on each side of
the rudder. I have a rough sketch not worthy of posting yet but I'm sure we
will keep the list informed as it develops. One thing for sure, it will be a
bunch easier to so during assembly than after the fact but we are working on
the after the fact version. I already have the aircraft and panel wired for
it, it's on the back burner until I can get the canopy top final riveted.
Look for for a good drawing and some pics in about two weeks. It will use
the Ray Allen servo. It works on paper, just need to carefully start the
layout and see where and how to fit it. The plan is for the control to be
tray mounted to allow access to the servo and linkage and the actual control
surfaces will be mounted using hinges, nutplates and screws. The weight
should be equivilent to Vic's setup. Of course there will be a need to
balance the rudder !
af!
> terwards to make sure there isn't a flutter issue with the extra weight
built into the control surface.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34:28 PM (GMT-0800)
America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
> Paul
> I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the
attached pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer.
Hope they help.
>
> --------
> Bill (and Jon) Reining
> 40514
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Yeah, cutting the cables would be an absolute no-no in my book. In one scenario
I'm attaching the mechanism to the rudder pedal assembly, in the other, to the
rudder cables via a "wire rope clip" that allows attachment of an actuator
arm. The secondary effect of this system would be to provide automatic centering
to the rudder. Since this won't require the constant attention like the
pitch trim, this is the reason I'm strongly favoring a fully mechanical system.
One question for those that are flying with a rudder trim; once set how ofter
do you have to change it?
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> Wish I had read your post first before posting mine William, could have saved
me a few lines in my message. Please share you ideas as they develop. My main
concern was springs that were able to provide enough travel and still maintain
their springyness and not be so strong that they would wear your legs out but
strong enough to hold position on the rudder. I toyed with ways to attach the
system to the cables instead of cutting the cables and installing the aprings
inbetween, what say you?
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:50:27 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
> And now for something completely different.
>
> My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The Van's
aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no one
has considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal 177RG
uses a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar fully
mechanical spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
>
> In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that
applies (or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder trim.
The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may be usable
for the rudder trim.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > X-Rcpt-To:
> >
> >
> > Deems and I are working on a rudder trim system that will deploy a flush tab
(similar to airline speed brake) into the slip stream on each side of the rudder.
I have a rough sketch not worthy of posting yet but I'm sure we will keep
the list informed as it develops. One thing for sure, it will be a bunch easier
to so during assembly than after the fact but we are working on the after
the fact version. I already have the aircraft and panel wired for it, it's on
the back burner until I can get the canopy top final riveted. Look for for a good
drawing and some pics in about two weeks. It will use the Ray Allen servo.
It works on paper, just need to carefully start the layout and see where and
how to fit it. The plan is for the control to be tray mounted to allow access
to the servo and linkage and the actual control surfaces will be mounted using
hinges, nutplates and screws. The weight should be equivilent to Vic's setup.
Of course there will be a need to balance the rudder !
>
> af!
> > terwards to make sure there isn't a flutter issue with the extra weight built
into the control surface.
> >
> > Rick S.
> > 40185
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34:28 PM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
> >
> >
> > Paul
> > I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the attached
pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer. Hope they
help.
> >
> > --------
> > Bill (and Jon) Reining
> > 40514
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
I'm not sure I'd agree that it is not a closed system. Simultaneously pushing
right and left rudder will not give you both right an left deflection--but I think
I know what you mean.
Using springs to hold only one direction would require a somewhat large force,
this would be the case for the aileron trim also. Anyway all that is required
is a bellcrank, two pulleys and two springs attached by cables to the forward
side of the inboard rudder pedals . With the bellcrank centered, the springs
will center the rudder. With the bellcrank to one side or the other, the springs
will bias the rudder to one side or the other. There are various ways that
the actuator moving the bellcrank can achieve the required mechanical advantage.
You could even eliminate the actuator by making it ground adjustable fixing
the bellcrank with the center bolt. Some have already added springs to the
forward side of the rudder pedals to eliminate the "free play" of the rudder
pedals.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> 0.28 MAILTO_TO_SPAM_ADDR URI: Includes a link to a likely spammer email
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> FWIW, I too had considered a spring system for the rudder trim. Part of the
> problem is it's not a closed loop system so at first look you'd have to have
> a system that works both sides. One thing I considered is that since you
> usually only have to hold right rudder in you could just but a spring on
> that side to hold some tension pulling on the right side at various amounts.
>
>
> The amount of throw threw me off though and I finally caved and put a tab on
> the rudder that I operate through a push/pull cable to a knob in the
> cockpit. Honestly it's not the prettiest setup so I may redo it down the
> road, but it cost next to nothing and it works great.
>
> Marcus
> Picking it up from the paintshop next weekend!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Sked
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 2:58 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
> Wish I had read your post first before posting mine William, could have
> saved me a few lines in my message. Please share you ideas as they develop.
> My main concern was springs that were able to provide enough travel and
> still maintain their springyness and not be so strong that they would wear
> your legs out but strong enough to hold position on the rudder. I toyed with
> ways to attach the system to the cables instead of cutting the cables and
> installing the aprings inbetween, what say you?
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:50:27 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
> And now for something completely different.
>
> My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The
> Van's aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no
> one has considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal
> 177RG uses a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar
> fully mechanical spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
>
> In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that
> applies (or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder
> trim. The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may
> be usable for the rudder trim.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> > X-Rcpt-To:
> >
> >
> > Deems and I are working on a rudder trim system that will deploy a flush
> tab (similar to airline speed brake) into the slip stream on each side of
> the rudder. I have a rough sketch not worthy of posting yet but I'm sure we
> will keep the list informed as it develops. One thing for sure, it will be a
> bunch easier to so during assembly than after the fact but we are working on
> the after the fact version. I already have the aircraft and panel wired for
> it, it's on the back burner until I can get the canopy top final riveted.
> Look for for a good drawing and some pics in about two weeks. It will use
> the Ray Allen servo. It works on paper, just need to carefully start the
> layout and see where and how to fit it. The plan is for the control to be
> tray mounted to allow access to the servo and linkage and the actual control
> surfaces will be mounted using hinges, nutplates and screws. The weight
> should be equivilent to Vic's setup. Of course there will be a need to
> balance the rudder !
>
> af!
> > terwards to make sure there isn't a flutter issue with the extra weight
> built into the control surface.
> >
> > Rick S.
> > 40185
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34:28 PM (GMT-0800)
> America/Los_Angeles
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
> >
> >
> > Paul
> > I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the
> attached pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer.
> Hope they help.
> >
> > --------
> > Bill (and Jon) Reining
> > 40514
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
Here's the spring bias rudder trim for the Rv-6:
http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/ruddertrim.htm
I've been thinking a lot about this during the build. I really would prefer
some form of spring bias system to avoid changing the balance
characteristics and construction of the rudder. I've thought about it a lot
but have been waiting until I have more of the rudder system installed to
get a better idea of function.
I'm very eager to see if others make any progress with a spring bias trim
system.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40716
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
And now for something completely different.
My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The
Van's aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no
one has considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal
177RG uses a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar
fully mechanical spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that
applies (or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder
trim. The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may
be usable for the rudder trim.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
> X-Rcpt-To:
>
>
> Deems and I are working on a rudder trim system that will deploy a
> flush tab (similar to airline speed brake) into the slip stream on each
side of the rudder. I have a rough sketch not worthy of posting yet but I'm
sure we will keep the list informed as it develops. One thing for sure, it
will be a bunch easier to so during assembly than after the fact but we are
working on the after the fact version. I already have the aircraft and panel
wired for it, it's on the back burner until I can get the canopy top final
riveted. Look for for a good drawing and some pics in about two weeks. It
will use the Ray Allen servo. It works on paper, just need to carefully
start the layout and see where and how to fit it. The plan is for the
control to be tray mounted to allow access to the servo and linkage and the
actual control surfaces will be mounted using hinges, nutplates and screws.
The weight should be equivilent to Vic's setup. Of course there will be a
need to balance the rudder !
af!
> terwards to make sure there isn't a flutter issue with the extra
> weight built into the control surface.
>
> Rick S.
> 40185
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34:28 PM (GMT-0800)
> America/Los_Angeles
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
> Paul
> I am also interested, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the
> attached pictures of the Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this
> summer. Hope they help.
>
> --------
> Bill (and Jon) Reining
> 40514
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_132_416.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
John,
I'll take both the WD-415 and the door guide & pin set if they are still available.
>
> 1. New Rivet head cable attach bracket (WD-415). Dummy me ordered 2 sets. $38
plus $5 shipping.
>
> 2. New Rivet head door guide and pin set. Can't retrofit to mine at this point.
$86 plus $5 shipping.
See you're in Tullahoma, TN. I grew up in Killen, AL, moved to Iowa ~10 years
ago but it's amazing how hearing the names of the small towns in North Alabama
and Southern TN bring back the memories.
Anyway, let me know if these are still available and I'll mail you a check.
Doug
Finishing up the elevator trim.
QB Fuse and QB wings here in about a month.
Hope I can finish out the rest of the tailcone in 2-3 weeks
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140009#140009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
At Van's home coming, there was a 10 builder with a spring bias system usin
g a trim servo motor. It was mounted in the tunnel between the two rear sea
ts, so I didn't get to see the mechanism. The biggest challenge was the inh
erent drag in the rudder system which was too great for the bias springs to
over come. So it was still a work in progress and a very interesting conce
pt.
Vern Smith (#324 cabin top)
> From: rv10(at)sinkrate.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV10-L
ist: Re: Rudder trim input needed> Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2007 12:01:43 -0700> >
m curious if anyone has given any thought to a system that applies forces>
to the cables without any external tabs? It seems to me the cables could be
> cut into two pieces somewhere in the tailcone or tunnel and some sort of>
linkage could be created so that the pedals are always neutral but the rea
r> half of the cables that are attached to the rudder could be offset such
that> they make the rudder move a few degrees either direction. > > I have
a few ideas of some systems but I don't have a clue as to what would> work
or where to start. Just curios what other people have thought of?> > -Ben>
40579> > > -----Original Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matroni
cs.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Rei
ning> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:34 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.co
m> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed> > --> RV10-List messag
e posted by: "Bill Reining" > > Paul> I am also interes
ted, but haven't done anything yet. I did take the> attached pictures of th
e Ray Allen display while at Oshkosh this summer.> Hope they help.> > -----
---> Bill (and Jon) Reining> 40514> > > > > Read this topic online here:> >
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=139849#139849> > > > > Attac
hments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_135_117.jpg> ht
tp://forums.matronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_134_151.jpg> http://forums.ma
tronics.com//files/oshkosh_2007_133_186.jpg> http://forums.matronics.com//f
> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Caf=E9. Stop
by today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Oc
tWLtagline
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
I'm getting to the point in my construction (about to join the
forward and mid-fuse) where I've got to make considerations for the
best installation of the interior... which will most likely be one
from Flightline. How are the side panel and floor coverings
attached? If an adhesive is used, is it safe to put directly on to
alclad, or do you suggest some kind of a primer to go down first?
To date I've done very little priming, but I am considering putting
something down inside the cabin as it's a likely place for spills
(I've got little ones... and a wife that will not travel without
coffee).
Are there specific areas that will not be covered by the interior
kit that I will need to paint?
Is there anything that those of you who have gone before would like
to have done at an earlier stage when access was easier?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
If the door pins are still available I'd love to take them. Does anyone on the
list offer the pin set?
Mine might get delivered in the next 100 month or so. [Wink]
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140026#140026
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)suddenlink.net> |
The Flightline Interior side panels go on with a combination of screws
and velcro.
I installed the Flightline Interior on my RV-10, but after the install I
suggested to Abby that certain modifications be made to her design.
Abby is great to work with, and when you order if you specifically
request certain things she will do it the way you desire. I really like
the interior she provided.
If Abby has not yet incorporated some of my suggestions into her pattern
for the RV-10 interior, I would suggest that you request that Abby:
1. NOT sew the carpet portion of the side panels that cover the
outside rear passenger footwell (goes on with velcro) to the fiberboard
side panel (which goes on with screws) and covers the side panel from in
front of the pilot's seat to the rear of the door.
2. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet at the point the rudder
cables exit the tunnel, down to the floor, so that the tunnel cover
carpet can be removed without disengaging the rudder cables.
3. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet from the bottom of the
pilot's seat belt attachment mount on the tunnel side wall, to the floor
of the rear passenger footwell, so that the tunnel cover carpet can be
removed without removing the seat belt attachment bolts.
Russ Daves
N710RV - 175+ hours
From: Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com>
Subject: Interior
I'm getting to the point in my construction (about to join the
forward and mid-fuse) where I've got to make considerations for
the
best installation of the interior... which will most likely be one
from Flightline. How are the side panel and floor coverings
attached? If an adhesive is used, is it safe to put directly on
to
alclad, or do you suggest some kind of a primer to go down first?
To date I've done very little priming, but I am considering
putting
something down inside the cabin as it's a likely place for spills
(I've got little ones... and a wife that will not travel without
coffee).
Are there specific areas that will not be covered by the
interior
kit that I will need to paint?
Is there anything that those of you who have gone before would
like
to have done at an earlier stage when access was easier?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Russell Daves wrote:
> The Flightline Interior side panels go on with a combination of screws
> and velcro.
>
> I installed the Flightline Interior on my RV-10, but after the install I
> suggested to Abby that certain modifications be made to her design.
> Abby is great to work with, and when you order if you specifically
> request certain things she will do it the way you desire. I really like
> the interior she provided.
>
> If Abby has not yet incorporated some of my suggestions into her pattern
> for the RV-10 interior, I would suggest that you request that Abby:
>
> 1. NOT sew the carpet portion of the side panels that cover the
> outside rear passenger footwell (goes on with velcro) to the fiberboard
> side panel (which goes on with screws) and covers the side panel from in
> front of the pilot's seat to the rear of the door.
>
My entire side carpet and trim piece below the door is secured with
velcro strips for no-screw removal. Abby can get you long rolls
of velcro in a cost effective way if you want to use it to secure
some of the panels.
> 2. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet at the point the rudder
> cables exit the tunnel, down to the floor, so that the tunnel cover
> carpet can be removed without disengaging the rudder cables.
>
I don't believe she cuts the holes for the rudder cables, so
this would be something that the builder could do, to cut a
slit to make this work.
> 3. Provide a split in the tunnel cover carpet from the bottom of the
> pilot's seat belt attachment mount on the tunnel side wall, to the floor
> of the rear passenger footwell, so that the tunnel cover carpet can be
> removed without removing the seat belt attachment bolts.
>
This one wouldn't be a bad mod at all. Ideally you could have
the rear carpet be a little longer, and the front carpet
have a nicely trimmed seam that overlaps the rear by a couple
inches. I'll mention this to her too. Sure is nice though
that there's so little to complain about with her stuff. ;)
As for the areas to paint, there isn't much. You probably
want to paint your door posts, and basically a couple
inches or so around all of the openings, in case an edge gets
exposed, and at the gusset area by the aft corners of the
windshield. You may want to paint your glareshield, even if
you plan to cover it later. You may want to paint the
forward ribs and walls from about the air vents forward.
You'll want to paint the seat pedestals and especially the
face where the stick comes out, and all the brackets
associated with the seats and seat belts. On the rear
seats, you may want to paint the hinge areas.
Beyond that, I don't personally know how bad the corrosion
would be if you got wet carpeting and had it covering
plain alclad. Personally, I Akzo epoxy primed all of the
lower interior to seal it, but YMMV. On the cabin top I
also sanded lightly and sprayed some areas with a
paint/primer/sealer mix...not much, but just to give a good
gluing surface that was less porous for around the edges.
Tim
> Russ Daves
> N710RV - 175+ hours
>
>
>
>
> **
> *Time: *
>
> *From: * */Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com
> >/*
>
> *Subject: * /*_Interior_*/
>
>
>
> I'm getting to the point in my construction (about to join the
> forward and mid-fuse) where I've got to make considerations for the
> best installation of the interior... which will most likely be one
> from Flightline. How are the side panel and floor coverings
> attached? If an adhesive is used, is it safe to put directly on to
> alclad, or do you suggest some kind of a primer to go down first?
>
> To date I've done very little priming, but I am considering putting
> something down inside the cabin as it's a likely place for spills
> (I've got little ones... and a wife that will not travel without
> coffee).
>
> Are there specific areas that will not be covered by the interior
> kit that I will need to paint?
>
> Is there anything that those of you who have gone before would like
> to have done at an earlier stage when access was easier?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
I have dual Garmin 430 radio's and their GMA 347 Audio Panel.
The panel has a split com feature that enables the Pilot to TX/RX on Com
1 while the Co-Pilot can TX/RX on Com 2. I found on our trip to New
Mexico that when the Co-Pilot transmitted on 122.75 for air to air on
Com 2, that I would hear a fairly loud squeal on the Receive on Com 1
when I was listening to Center. Every time you TX in Com 2, Com 1
breaks Squelch and you get a squeal.
I have two bent whip (RAMI AV-17) antenna's on the belly under
the passenger seat which are 3' 4" apart. The Garmin 430's have a
Tramsmit Interlock pin that can be wired to the MIC KEY of the opposite
radio, but if you do this the receiver sensitivity is reduced. Also
when you use the Split Com feature of the Audio Panel, you would not
want the receiver sensitivity to be reduced.
My question is to those that have dual radio's and have used the
split com feature so both the pilot and co-pilot can transmit at the
same time. Are you having similar problems, if not where are your Com
Antenna's mounted? I was thinking if I move one of my Com Antenna's to
the top of the aircraft, that may solve my problem, but I didn't want to
drill holes in the top skin just to find out that I still have the same
issue.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV 40250 (Hobbs=323)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
As the rest of you, I've been mulling this over, as well. I saw an earlier post
concerning the spring system on the firewall in front of the passenger pedals
before, and it seems like the most practical. It's mechanical and is not attached
to the actual rudder cables. It's close to the pilot so an emergency trim
disconnect cable would be easy to install. It could also take the slop out of
the pedals and prevent the rudder from slamming the stops in windy ramp conditions.
Just to start some more dialogue, you can change yaw without the rudder. I'm not
pushing this but a small vane in the airstream can do the same thing. As an
example, you could put a vane on the belly with a simple twist knob. It would
need to be aft of CG to avoid reverse action and the further back the smaller
it could be. Drag would not be a big issue since the device would be reducing
the drag effect of unbalanced flight. Fire away.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse coming
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140073#140073
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer |
'08
Add my name to the Alaska trip. Dates would be sometime in July or August. Seems
like 10-14 days would be about right.
Talked to an experienced Alaska pilot about the runway conditions verses my low
to the ground wheel pants. He said most dirt runways are covered with pea gravel
and after looking at the wheel pants, suggested that I stick to paved runways.
Good news is there are a lot of paved runways. Also, its legal to land
on the highways.
Count me in for 2 souls.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou(at)yahoo.com
N939SB, flying
"RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" wrote:
I would be a 2-3 for a 2 week trip but unfortunately the earliest I could possibly
make it would be a Sept 09. Seriously doubt I'll be ready next year yet.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 1:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer '08
Dean, That's got some potential:
Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.
A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!
B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates, duration,
route, etc.)
For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions
1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good
idea if I can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary to make
the trip
2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ?
3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ?
This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and response we
can modify.
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Deems,
>
> How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to
> Alaska............return to Portland in time for Van's
> Homecoming............then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a
> few to bite on that journey!
>
> Dean 805HL
>
> 110.4 hours
>
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Senior Dating Online. Click Now!
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. |
I have not specifically checked for those symptoms, but in several planes
with bent whips on the belly, also under 4' apart, I have never seen this or
heard of it, so I would look into some other options before moving the
antenna. The other option would be to run a wire to a remote antenna (with
an adequate ground plane) outside the plane and test it on the ground to see
if it makes a difference. Or, you could try putting a metal plate (sheet of
aluminum) between the antennas on the ground and see if that makes any
difference at all.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
-----Original Message-----
From: Doerr, Ray R [NTK] [mailto:Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com]
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature.
I have dual Garmin 430 radio's and their GMA 347 Audio Panel.
The panel has a split com feature that enables the Pilot to TX/RX on Com
1 while the Co-Pilot can TX/RX on Com 2. I found on our trip to New
Mexico that when the Co-Pilot transmitted on 122.75 for air to air on
Com 2, that I would hear a fairly loud squeal on the Receive on Com 1
when I was listening to Center. Every time you TX in Com 2, Com 1
breaks Squelch and you get a squeal.
I have two bent whip (RAMI AV-17) antenna's on the belly under
the passenger seat which are 3' 4" apart. The Garmin 430's have a
Tramsmit Interlock pin that can be wired to the MIC KEY of the opposite
radio, but if you do this the receiver sensitivity is reduced. Also
when you use the Split Com feature of the Audio Panel, you would not
want the receiver sensitivity to be reduced.
My question is to those that have dual radio's and have used the
split com feature so both the pilot and co-pilot can transmit at the
same time. Are you having similar problems, if not where are your Com
Antenna's mounted? I was thinking if I move one of my Com Antenna's to
the top of the aircraft, that may solve my problem, but I didn't want to
drill holes in the top skin just to find out that I still have the same
issue.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV 40250 (Hobbs=323)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Pitot Tube Placement |
Just bought a Piper heated pitot tube and 3 inch extension from a friend
($300). Two questions:
1. Do I need some kind of control to manage pitot heat output in
additon to
an on and off switch?
2. Is placement of the pitot tube critical? I'm thinking of puting it
next
to the stall warning access plate which puts in aft a couple of inches
from
Van's pitot tube placement.
Chuck Weyant
Santa Maria, CA
805 878-1922
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cleary" <john_rv10(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature. |
Ray,
Please see the attached comments from the GNS 430W installation manual re
mandatory use of the TX interlock and placement of com antennas.
Cheers,
John Cleary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doerr, Ray R
[NTK]
Sent: Tuesday, 16 October 2007 12:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Dual Radio's using the Split Com feature.
I have dual Garmin 430 radio's and their GMA 347 Audio Panel.
The panel has a split com feature that enables the Pilot to TX/RX on Com
1 while the Co-Pilot can TX/RX on Com 2. I found on our trip to New
Mexico that when the Co-Pilot transmitted on 122.75 for air to air on
Com 2, that I would hear a fairly loud squeal on the Receive on Com 1
when I was listening to Center. Every time you TX in Com 2, Com 1
breaks Squelch and you get a squeal.
I have two bent whip (RAMI AV-17) antenna's on the belly under
the passenger seat which are 3' 4" apart. The Garmin 430's have a
Tramsmit Interlock pin that can be wired to the MIC KEY of the opposite
radio, but if you do this the receiver sensitivity is reduced. Also
when you use the Split Com feature of the Audio Panel, you would not
want the receiver sensitivity to be reduced.
My question is to those that have dual radio's and have used the
split com feature so both the pilot and co-pilot can transmit at the
same time. Are you having similar problems, if not where are your Com
Antenna's mounted? I was thinking if I move one of my Com Antenna's to
the top of the aircraft, that may solve my problem, but I didn't want to
drill holes in the top skin just to find out that I still have the same
issue.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
N519RV 40250 (Hobbs=323)
9:22 AM
9:22 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages |
I was initially surprised at the latency in the RPM while doing my
transition training with Mike S. as well. However, I have the same AFS AF-2500
engine
monitor in my RV-10 and I have no problem accurately setting RPM and MAP with
it (I really like the system as a whole). I suppose it would be nice to get
a more instantaneous reading, but like anything, you quickly learn to
compensate and it becomes a non-issue. For me, the benefits of my AF-2500 (displays
everything in one place, light weight, takes up very little panel space,
audio warnings etc.) far out weighs a few millisecond delay in displayed RPM.
Just to add some insight: I would guess that the delay comes from filtering
or taking a running average of the signals coming from the tachometer
transducer. There is always lag created in this process, regardless of the size
of
the computer crunching the numbers. There is a trade off between displaying a
smooth signal and the amount time delay. You can shorten the delay, but the
result is a more erratic display. The amount of noise in the signal coming
from the transducer also plays a part. Maybe the guys at AFS can let us know
why they chose the particular set up they currently have?
-Jim
40134
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
In a message dated 10/13/2007 4:06:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
deemsdavis(at)cox.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis
While doing transition training, the plane we flew was equipped with a
digital EMS. There was a pretty significant delay between the actual
throttle and prop changes made with the controls and the recording and
display of the results on the digital/graphic MP and RPM gages. By
'significant' I mean enough so that If you were attempting to use the
gages in real time to go from full throttle /RPM to cruise settings I
would consistently 'overshoot' the desired setting because of the 'lag'
in these instruments. For small adjustments the 'lag' was not as big an
issue. After 8.1 hours, I got a little better as estimating the
settings and then waiting for the gages to 'catch-up' but I still found
it annoying and distracting.
Mike S. said that ALL EFIS, EMS systems he has flown have the same issue
and it's one of the reasons he prefers steam gages. I'm not flying yet
so I don't know what I'll get with my OP's but I hadn't anticipated the
delay/lag that it looks like I'll probably have.
So for those of you flying, with the Cheltons , GRT's, AFS.
Inquiring minds want to know.
(http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
| From: | "plevenda(at)jvlv.lv" <paulevenda(at)mac.com> |
A lot of great information. I am not real educated on the whole spring bias systems
even though I have seen drawings. I have not thought about the balance issues
with a system in the rudder itself either, but one thing I'm gathering is
that it is something many people are wanting to see a solution to. Thanks again
for the good dialog.
As far as my builder number and my status as new builder. My original number was
40733, but I then purchased Ed Wischmeyer's kit, thus taking on his number per
Van's.
--------
Paul Levenda
#40090
N974LV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140172#140172
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
Doug,
You got beaten to the punch. If the buyer falls through, I'll let you know.
My bird is now in pieces in the paint shop......hoping we start primer this
week. Been 6 weeks since it's flown...you'll love it.
grumpy
In a message dated 10/14/2007 10:37:49 P.M. Central Standard Time,
dljinia(at)yahoo.com writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "n277dl"
John,
I'll take both the WD-415 and the door guide & pin set if they are still
available.
>
> 1. New Rivet head cable attach bracket (WD-415). Dummy me ordered 2 sets.
$38 plus $5 shipping.
>
> 2. New Rivet head door guide and pin set. Can't retrofit to mine at this
point. $86 plus $5 shipping.
See you're in Tullahoma, TN. I grew up in Killen, AL, moved to Iowa ~10
years ago but it's amazing how hearing the names of the small towns in North
Alabama and Southern TN bring back the memories.
Anyway, let me know if these are still available and I'll mail you a check.
Doug
Finishing up the elevator trim.
QB Fuse and QB wings here in about a month.
Hope I can finish out the rest of the tailcone in 2-3 weeks
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140009#140009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GenGrumpy(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Extra parts for sale |
Michael,
They're gone (I think).
grumpy
In a message dated 10/15/2007 3:35:20 A.M. Central Standard Time,
rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "Michael Wellenzohn"
If the door pins are still available I'd love to take them. Does anyone on
the list offer the pin set?
Mine might get delivered in the next 100 month or so. [Wink]
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140026#140026
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobHickman(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Question re. Electronic/Digital engine gages |
The latest software on the AF-2500 does speed up the response time.
The new AF-3400 and AF-3500 are much faster.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer |
'08
Unfortunately, the last I checked Northway is still gravel, result of an
earthquake that destroyed the pavement. Unless you have the range to go
from Whitehorse to Fairbanks(you may very well), Northway is the normal
and most low key place to clear customs.
Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> Add my name to the Alaska trip. Dates would be sometime in July or
> August. Seems like 10-14 days would be about right.
>
> Talked to an experienced Alaska pilot about the runway conditions
> verses my low to the ground wheel pants. He said most dirt runways are
> covered with pea gravel and after looking at the wheel pants,
> suggested that I stick to paved runways. Good news is there are a lot
> of paved runways. Also, its legal to land on the highways.
>
> Count me in for 2 souls.
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> billderou(at)yahoo.com
> N939SB, flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
> */"RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" /* wrote:
>
>
> I would be a 2-3 for a 2 week trip but unfortunately the earliest
> I could possibly make it would be a Sept 09. Seriously doubt I'll
> be ready next year yet.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 1:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip
> summer '08
>
>
> Dean, That's got some potential:
>
> Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.
>
> A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!
> B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates,
> duration,
> route, etc.)
>
>
> For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions
>
>
> 1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good
> idea if I can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary
> to make
> the trip
>
> 2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ?
>
> 3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ?
>
> This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and
> response we
> can modify.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
> >
> > Deems,
> >
> > How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to
> > Alaska............return to Portland in time for Van's
> > Homecoming............then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a
> > few to bite on that journey!
> >
> > Dean 805HL
> >
> > 110.4 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > _____________________________________________________________
> > Senior Dating Online. Click Now!
> >
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip summer |
'08
Oh well we just did end of May a trip for 10 days through Alaska with
some Glastar/Sportsman, however we opted more for the outdoor.
You can see some videos here:
<http://www.youtube.com/user/MovieMitch>
the Alaskan Runway gives you an idea about some of the things you could
expect runway wise if you want to try out dirt strips (with a wing
camera), dings on the prop and the taildragger stabilizer were very common!
You will be fine if you opt for the sealed strips only, if you go dirt
strips I would not go with fairings and look for enough prop clearance
and preferable metal props.
Werner
darnpilot(at)aol.com wrote:
> I'd like to go...put me down as a "2". Can I make the trip in a
> Glasair III? Are most Alaska strips considered rough fields? Sounds
> like fun!
>
> Jeff
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sat, 13 Oct 2007 2:28 pm
> Subject: RV10-List: Gathering suggestions/input for an Alaska Trip
> summer '08
>
> >
>
> Dean, That's got some potential:
> Let's see how practical planning a trip like this is.
>
> A. Going as a large group would be a Ton of fun!
> B. The larger the group the more difficult to organize (dates,
> duration, route, etc.)
>
> For starters how about if we begin a poll with these three questions
>
> 1. Who's interested ? (scale 1-3 , 1= somewhat, 2= sounds like a good
> idea if I can arrange my schedule; 3=I'll do what ever necessary to
> make the trip
>
> 2. Length of trip : ( # of day's in Alaska) ?
>
> 3. Dates: (1st arrival day in Alaska) ?
>
> This is only a place to start, depending on the interest and response
> we can modify.
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
>
> ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote:
> >
> > Deems,
> >
> > How is this for a plan.................Fly to Osh 08.........then to
> > Alaska............return to Portland in time for Van's >
> Homecoming............then a short flight HOME. Bet we could get a >
> few to bite on that journey!
> >
> > Dean 805HL
> >
> > 110.4 hours
> >
> >
> >
> > _____________________________________________________________
> > Senior Dating Online. Click Now! >
> <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iig7piSn006Y1fkPcGhQLEJospedsTRGLjT80dvHokeKHTZkY/>
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
>
>
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail
> <http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/index.htm?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000970>!
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I've been wanting to wait a bit and write up a little on tire
balancing and such, because my tires are not at all balanced
and I want to see how much better things gets once they are.
But, I did have a curve to throw into the wheel shimmy thing
we hear about with the RV-10.
First, its ESSENTIAL that you take your nosewheel and re-torque
the axle bolt and the large fork to gear leg nut on the nosewheel
once you hit 40-75 hours. You will find that the required 26lbs of
breakout force has dropped to almost nothing on that large nut.
This will cause a lot of extra shake. Remember that Anh tightened
his 3 full flats to get it back to spec. You will prevent a lot
of problems by using the new nosewheel spacers, and keeping
everything tight for the first 100 hours or more.
But, the curveball is, I think a lot of people who are feeling
shimmy are mis-diagnosing it. I was once told by John that my
main gear was where he saw the shimmy when I taxied. I believed
him, but I also know I feel some in the nose as well. Keep in mind
that none of the tires are balanced yet, and my mains are now
in the process of wearing the outer tread on the opposite side
of the tire.
Well, this weekend I had shimmy on landing and I decided to hold
the nosewheel ALL the way off the ground as I had a perfect CG
balance to do it with, having baggage and rear passengers.
What I found was that I felt my normal shimmy on landing at
35-40kts, but I only had the mains on the ground. Don't ask
me why, just yet, but I can tell you without a doubt that some
of the shimmy people are complaining about is main gear
shimmy, not nose. It may be a while but I'll report back once
I've balanced my tires, and I'll also report back next spring
once I've swapped in new tires and balanced them.
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shimmy comments |
Tim,
I should also mention, which I forgot before, that by tightening the the
large fork to nose gear leg nut it took care of 80% of the need for right
rudder input during cruise. At the end before tightening this nut I had to
give so much right rudder that my foot got tired. Once a gust of wind hit
during cruise I went from right rudder input to left rudder input to center
the ball. After tightening only resting my foot on the pedal was required.
Probably 3-5lbs at most. I decided that rudder trim is not even necessary.
Anh
N591VU - 102 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson" <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 11:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shimmy comments
>
>
> I've been wanting to wait a bit and write up a little on tire
> balancing and such, because my tires are not at all balanced
> and I want to see how much better things gets once they are.
> But, I did have a curve to throw into the wheel shimmy thing
> we hear about with the RV-10.
>
> First, its ESSENTIAL that you take your nosewheel and re-torque
> the axle bolt and the large fork to gear leg nut on the nosewheel
> once you hit 40-75 hours. You will find that the required 26lbs of
> breakout force has dropped to almost nothing on that large nut.
> This will cause a lot of extra shake. Remember that Anh tightened
> his 3 full flats to get it back to spec. You will prevent a lot
> of problems by using the new nosewheel spacers, and keeping
> everything tight for the first 100 hours or more.
>
> But, the curveball is, I think a lot of people who are feeling
> shimmy are mis-diagnosing it. I was once told by John that my
> main gear was where he saw the shimmy when I taxied. I believed
> him, but I also know I feel some in the nose as well. Keep in mind
> that none of the tires are balanced yet, and my mains are now
> in the process of wearing the outer tread on the opposite side
> of the tire.
>
> Well, this weekend I had shimmy on landing and I decided to hold
> the nosewheel ALL the way off the ground as I had a perfect CG
> balance to do it with, having baggage and rear passengers.
> What I found was that I felt my normal shimmy on landing at
> 35-40kts, but I only had the mains on the ground. Don't ask
> me why, just yet, but I can tell you without a doubt that some
> of the shimmy people are complaining about is main gear
> shimmy, not nose. It may be a while but I'll report back once
> I've balanced my tires, and I'll also report back next spring
> once I've swapped in new tires and balanced them.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shimmy comments |
I have also been very suspicious that the nose wheel is creating the need for rudder
trim. Just yesterday I removed the fairing and tightened the big nut. With
the fairing off took the plane for a test flight and now it needed left trim
instead of right trim. Shook it back and forth with rudder deflection and it
centered the ball with feet on the floor.
Apparently too loose is bad and too tight is bad. Has anyone considered adding
a fin to the nose wheel fairing, much like the Piper Archer, that would de-sensitize
the big nut torque?
I am having difficulty understanding why too loose is a problem. This is what
is holding me up from adding the fin.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
DejaVu wrote:
Tim,
I should also mention, which I forgot before, that by tightening the the
large fork to nose gear leg nut it took care of 80% of the need for right
rudder input during cruise. At the end before tightening this nut I had to
give so much right rudder that my foot got tired. Once a gust of wind hit
during cruise I went from right rudder input to left rudder input to center
the ball. After tightening only resting my foot on the pedal was required.
Probably 3-5lbs at most. I decided that rudder trim is not even necessary.
Anh
N591VU - 102 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson"
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 11:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shimmy comments
>
>
> I've been wanting to wait a bit and write up a little on tire
> balancing and such, because my tires are not at all balanced
> and I want to see how much better things gets once they are.
> But, I did have a curve to throw into the wheel shimmy thing
> we hear about with the RV-10.
>
> First, its ESSENTIAL that you take your nosewheel and re-torque
> the axle bolt and the large fork to gear leg nut on the nosewheel
> once you hit 40-75 hours. You will find that the required 26lbs of
> breakout force has dropped to almost nothing on that large nut.
> This will cause a lot of extra shake. Remember that Anh tightened
> his 3 full flats to get it back to spec. You will prevent a lot
> of problems by using the new nosewheel spacers, and keeping
> everything tight for the first 100 hours or more.
>
> But, the curveball is, I think a lot of people who are feeling
> shimmy are mis-diagnosing it. I was once told by John that my
> main gear was where he saw the shimmy when I taxied. I believed
> him, but I also know I feel some in the nose as well. Keep in mind
> that none of the tires are balanced yet, and my mains are now
> in the process of wearing the outer tread on the opposite side
> of the tire.
>
> Well, this weekend I had shimmy on landing and I decided to hold
> the nosewheel ALL the way off the ground as I had a perfect CG
> balance to do it with, having baggage and rear passengers.
> What I found was that I felt my normal shimmy on landing at
> 35-40kts, but I only had the mains on the ground. Don't ask
> me why, just yet, but I can tell you without a doubt that some
> of the shimmy people are complaining about is main gear
> shimmy, not nose. It may be a while but I'll report back once
> I've balanced my tires, and I'll also report back next spring
> once I've swapped in new tires and balanced them.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
&
gt;
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shimmy comments |
Bill DeRouchey wrote:
> I have also been very suspicious that the nose wheel is creating the
> need for rudder trim.
Very well could be.
> Just yesterday I removed the fairing and tightened the big nut. With
> the fairing off took the plane for a test flight and now it needed
> left trim instead of right trim. Shook it back and forth with rudder
> deflection and it centered the ball with feet on the floor.
Seems like it worked .... at least for the tirm problem.
> Apparently too loose is bad and too tight is bad.
Didn't know that too tight was bad except when you're trying to park the
airplane without the help of a towbar. :-P
> Has anyone considered adding a fin to the nose wheel fairing, much
> like the Piper Archer, that would de-sensitize the big nut torque?
It would work to 'straighten' out the nose gear.
> I am having difficulty understanding why too loose is a problem. This
> is what is holding me up from adding the fin.
Too loose generally causes shimmy of the nosewheel on landing. I've
been a Grumman (AA-1B) owner for 35 years, and they have the same
problems with the castering nosewheel and shimmy. This shimmy is the
side/side motion as opposed to a balance problem which is an up/down
motion. The Grumman nose gear has a stack of belleville washers
(they're cupped, not flat) that causes more drag as the big nut is
tightened. The Grumman maintenance book says to apply 25 Lbs of force
sideways at the wheel axle and if it doesn't move, it's tight enough.
That 25 Lvs appears to be a minimum, and 28 to 30 is better.
Since I haven't seen my nosegear yet, I haven't got a clue as to it's
assembly ..... but you can bet I'll use my Grumman experience to get it
right.
I also think some of the ground 'vibrations' are caused by the mains
'walking' fore/aft while taxiing. I've given much thought to replacing
the std. main gear with a spring aluminum gear, but will probably end up
with the std -10 gear. However, by the time I get there, there will be
a whole lot of operational info out there that might cause me to revisit
the idea.
Linn
>
> Bill DeRouchey
> N939SB, flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Baffling Question |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Hi,
does the baffling need to be on top of the rubber gasket or in front of it?
See attached picture.
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140458#140458
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fairings_013_125.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Did anybody have trouble picking up their finish kit in a standard truck
bed? It lists at 8 ft x 4 ft x 27 inches. I'd rather not take the
trailer if I can avoid it.
Fred Williams
40515
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mr Luther Strickland <lljjss22(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
I've also opted for OP technologies. I've been
working with Accuracy Avionics for about 8 months now.
The panel should be ready for me to pick up in the
next few weeks. If anyone is interested in a copy of
the drawings for the panel shoot me a note off line to
LJS2(at)pge.com.
Jearl Strickland #214
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> Patrick O'Neil has also ordered his OP Tech systems.
>
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
> gary wrote:
>
> >
> > I too have an OP tech panel (integrated system) My
> math says that there are
> > 3 of us, but I hear rumors of more folks that have
> chosen OP. If any of you
> > are lurking, speak up and we can compare notes.
> >
> > Gary
> > 40274
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of John W. Cox
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:28 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at
> Oshkosh
> >
>
> >
> > Dwayne, great to have you surface like this. Your
> selections with the
> > help of the gang at Accuracy adds another rung at
> climbing the ladder of
> > RV-10s setting a new kit building standard.
> >
> > I too, think Deems has done his homework and look
> forward to his Phase
> > I, fly off.
> >
> > Your panel is one of the top 10 in my book.
> >
> > John
> > 40600
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of dherring10
> > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:07 AM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
> >
> >
> >
> > George,
> > I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in
> his booth at Oshkosh.
> > John is correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I
> actually have a flying
> > airplane I will feel that I can give advice about
> building to others.
> > Besides there have always been such good answers
> posted by the time I
> > read the questions that in most instances I could
> not add anything. Tim
> > Olsen has told me to respond anyway so maybe I'll
> start now. Here are a
> > couple more pictures of my panel. Some of the
> items and switches Tony
> > and Eric had installed on the panel are not the
> ones that will actually
> > be used. They were just trying to fill the holes
> for the show. Let me
> > know if you have any specific questions that I can
> answer and feel free
> > to contact me offline if you want. I was looking
> at both the Chelton and
> > OP Tech systems and had decided on the Chelton
> until the D2 problems.
> > After Tony and I talked about and I did my own
> research I decided to use
> > the OP Tech. Hoping for good things with the
> buy-out of OP Te!
> > ch by Aerosonics. Besides if Deems was using
> them I knew he had done
> > the homework.
> >
> > I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang
> at Accuracy Avionics
> > have been great to work with. I think they will
> ship the panel to me
> > sometime this month. I wish I was really ready for
> it.
> >
> > dwayne@mid-westglass.com
> >
> > Dwayne Herring
> > 40506
> > QB Fuse
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> >
>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attachments:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
> > http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Stein's wiring kit |
Has anyone purchased Stein's "Master kit"?
http://www.steinair.com/masterkit.htm I am considering purchasing it but
wanted to hear any feedback from others that have or have passed on it.
Obviously the #2 wire is a little short for 10's but what other changes or
additions have people gone with? I have not yet talked to Stein about it
which I am sure he has something to say. Just curious to hear others
feedback.
-Ben
40579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dunne" <acs(at)acspropeller.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Shimmy comments |
Has anyone experienced the wheel shimmy without the wheel spat installed
and a fairly loose torque on the wheel nut?
In other words is the wheel spat centre of balance correctly over the
wheel. Maybe there's too much surface area on the spat occuring behind
the wheel and swinging in the breeze. It wouldn't take much to set up a
wobble on the wheel with a bit of leverage set too far behind it.(The
old supermarket trolley problem) Mind you there's the solution to the
rudder trim....:-)
John 40315
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill DeRouchey
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 2:22 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Shimmy comments
I have also been very suspicious that the nose wheel is creating the
need for rudder trim. Just yesterday I removed the fairing and tightened
the big nut. With the fairing off took the plane for a test flight and
now it needed left trim instead of right trim. Shook it back and forth
with rudder deflection and it centered the ball with feet on the floor.
Apparently too loose is bad and too tight is bad. Has anyone
considered adding a fin to the nose wheel fairing, much like the Piper
Archer, that would de-sensitize the big nut torque?
I am having difficulty understanding why too loose is a problem. This
is what is holding me up from adding the fin.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
DejaVu wrote:
Tim,
I should also mention, which I forgot before, that by tightening the
the
large fork to nose gear leg nut it took care of 80% of the need for
right
rudder input during cruise. At the end before tightening this nut I
had to
give so much right rudder that my foot got tired. Once a gust of
wind hit
during cruise I went from right rudder input to left rudder input to
center
the ball. After tightening only resting my foot on the pedal was
required.
Probably 3-5lbs at most. I decided that rudder trim is not even
necessary.
Anh
N591VU - 102 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Olson"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 11:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Shimmy comments
>
>
>
> I've been wanting to wait a bit and write up a little on tire
> balancing and such, because my tires are not at all balanced
> and I want to see how much better things gets once they are.
> But, I did have a curve to throw into the wheel shimmy thing
> we hear about with the RV-10.
>
> First, its ESSENTIAL that you take your nosewheel and re-torque
> the axle bolt and the large fork to gear leg nut on the nosewheel
> once you hit 40-75 hours. You will find that the required 26lbs of
> breakout force has dropped to almost nothing on that large nut.
> This will cause a lot of extra shake. Remember that Anh tightened
> his 3 full flats to get it back to spec. You will prevent a lot
> of problems by using the new nosewheel spacers, and keeping
> everything tight for the first 100 hours or more.
>
> But, the curveball is, I think a lot of people who are feeling
> shimmy are mis-diagnosing it. I was once told by John that my
> main gear was where he saw the shimmy when I taxied. I believed
> him, but I also know I feel some in the nose as well. Keep in mind
> that none of the tires are balanced yet, and my mains are now
> in the process of wearing the outer tread on the opposite side
> of the tire.
>
> Well, this weekend I had shimmy on landing and I decided to hold
> the nosewheel ALL the way off the ground as I had a perfect CG
> balance to do it with, having baggage and rear passengers.
> What I found was that I felt my normal shimmy on landing at
> 35-40kts, but I only had the mains on the ground. Don't ask
> me why, just yet, but I can tell you without a doubt that some
> of the shimmy people are complaining about is main gear
> shimmy, not nose. It may be a while but I'll report back once
> I've balanced my tires, and I'll also report back next spring
> once I've swapped in new tires and balanced them.
>
> --
> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
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>
>
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>
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>
>
>
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>
>
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>
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>
&
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Stein's wiring kit |
I might recommend doing most of your planning first, even to the point of
planning wiring runs and measuring their length, deciding on wire size and
wire color, and what kind of connections you are going to have on each end.
With a little planning I think you will be better off just ordering the
amount of each wire you think you will need and going from there. If time
isn't crucial, then estimate low and add some (slow shipping) if you need
it. If time important, then estimate a little high and find someone to buy
the extra from you.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: Ben Westfall [mailto:rv10(at)sinkrate.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 3:17 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stein's wiring kit
Has anyone purchased Stein's "Master kit"?
http://www.steinair.com/masterkit.htm I am considering purchasing it but
wanted to hear any feedback from others that have or have passed on it.
Obviously the #2 wire is a little short for 10's but what other changes or
additions have people gone with? I have not yet talked to Stein about it
which I am sure he has something to say. Just curious to hear others
feedback.
-Ben
40579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Don't be bashful Luther, post it here so we can all drool!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
Mr Luther Strickland wrote:
>
> I've also opted for OP technologies. I've been
> working with Accuracy Avionics for about 8 months now.
> The panel should be ready for me to pick up in the
> next few weeks. If anyone is interested in a copy of
> the drawings for the panel shoot me a note off line to
> LJS2(at)pge.com.
>
> Jearl Strickland #214
>
> --- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> Patrick O'Neil has also ordered his OP Tech systems.
>>
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>> gary wrote:
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>> I too have an OP tech panel (integrated system) My
>>>
>> math says that there are
>>
>>> 3 of us, but I hear rumors of more folks that have
>>>
>> chosen OP. If any of you
>>
>>> are lurking, speak up and we can compare notes.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> 40274
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>>>
>> Behalf Of John W. Cox
>>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 6:28 PM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at
>>>
>> Oshkosh
>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>> Dwayne, great to have you surface like this. Your
>>>
>> selections with the
>>
>>> help of the gang at Accuracy adds another rung at
>>>
>> climbing the ladder of
>>
>>> RV-10s setting a new kit building standard.
>>>
>>> I too, think Deems has done his homework and look
>>>
>> forward to his Phase
>>
>>> I, fly off.
>>>
>>> Your panel is one of the top 10 in my book.
>>>
>>> John
>>> 40600
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
>>>
>> Behalf Of dherring10
>>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 10:07 AM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> George,
>>> I just saw your post about my panel Tony had in
>>>
>> his booth at Oshkosh.
>>
>>> John is correct that I am a lurker. Maybe when I
>>>
>> actually have a flying
>>
>>> airplane I will feel that I can give advice about
>>>
>> building to others.
>>
>>> Besides there have always been such good answers
>>>
>> posted by the time I
>>
>>> read the questions that in most instances I could
>>>
>> not add anything. Tim
>>
>>> Olsen has told me to respond anyway so maybe I'll
>>>
>> start now. Here are a
>>
>>> couple more pictures of my panel. Some of the
>>>
>> items and switches Tony
>>
>>> and Eric had installed on the panel are not the
>>>
>> ones that will actually
>>
>>> be used. They were just trying to fill the holes
>>>
>> for the show. Let me
>>
>>> know if you have any specific questions that I can
>>>
>> answer and feel free
>>
>>> to contact me offline if you want. I was looking
>>>
>> at both the Chelton and
>>
>>> OP Tech systems and had decided on the Chelton
>>>
>> until the D2 problems.
>>
>>> After Tony and I talked about and I did my own
>>>
>> research I decided to use
>>
>>> the OP Tech. Hoping for good things with the
>>>
>> buy-out of OP Te!
>>
>>> ch by Aerosonics. Besides if Deems was using
>>>
>> them I knew he had done
>>
>>> the homework.
>>>
>>> I will tell you that Tony, Eric and all the gang
>>>
>> at Accuracy Avionics
>>
>>> have been great to work with. I think they will
>>>
>> ship the panel to me
>>
>>> sometime this month. I wish I was really ready for
>>>
>> it.
>>
>>> dwayne@mid-westglass.com
>>>
>>> Dwayne Herring
>>> 40506
>>> QB Fuse
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>>
>>>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137631#137631
>
>>>
>>>
>>> Attachments:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_2_183.jpg
>>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/panel_1_183.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> browse
>> Subscriptions page,
>> FAQ,
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>
>> Web Forums!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I picked up mine in my Toyota Sequoia. It was very tight and the dog had to share
the front seats with my wife and I, but we did it without anything on the roof
rack. We could have strapped the motor mount up there if necessary. We packed
very carefully and mercifully it was not raining in Aurora. The big gorillas
are the seats, the motor mounts and the cowling. Everything else is manageable.
The new fashionable pink cowling is a bit flimsy for the roof rack and was
my big concern. But it all went inside. On a truck get good tarps to protect
from wind and rain
We also got the FWF kit at the same time
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140578#140578
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Thanks Tim & Jesse,
I'll make it fit fat against the gasket.
Michael
BTW: does anyone have a picture of the Vetterman exhaust hanging?
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140586#140586
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
Michael,
just make sure you hagd a silencer behind the Vetterman otherwise I'm
afraid you will not pass the ICAO chapter 10 noise test requiered for
Europe.
br Werner
Michael Wellenzohn wrote:
>
> Thanks Tim & Jesse,
>
> I'll make it fit fat against the gasket.
>
> Michael
>
> BTW: does anyone have a picture of the Vetterman exhaust hanging?
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (fuselage)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140586#140586
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Werner,
thats one of my big unknowns since there are no noise measurments arount. I talked
to Liese and they offer a system. But I don't have any data about noise emission.
Thanks for the advice!
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140589#140589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Baffling Question |
Michael I will take a pic of exhaust and send in the morning if that is not
to late?
My bafling is against the metal not the gasket also.
regards Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 5:42 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Baffling Question
>
>
> Werner,
>
> thats one of my big unknowns since there are no noise measurments arount.
> I talked to Liese and they offer a system. But I don't have any data about
> noise emission.
>
> Thanks for the advice!
>
> Michael
>
> --------
> RV-10 builder (fuselage)
> #511
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140589#140589
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
The canopy top comes with the QB Fuselage, as well.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse coming
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140601#140601
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Trip Write-up Complete (Atlanta/Orlando) |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Tim,
Good data. By chance have you ever done any cruise numbers without wheel pants?
Since I know I want to take mine to some unimproved strips for some fly fishing,
I would probably be removing the pants.
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140606#140606
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mr Luther Strickland <lljjss22(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
All...
Per Deems request!!
...L. Jearl Strickland #214
--- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
> Don't be bashful Luther, post it here so we can all
> drool!
>
> Deems Davis # 406
> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
> http://deemsrv10.com/
>
> Mr Luther Strickland wrote:
> Strickland
> >
> > I've also opted for OP technologies. I've been
> > working with Accuracy Avionics for about 8 months
> now.
> > The panel should be ready for me to pick up in
> the
> > next few weeks. If anyone is interested in a copy
> of
> > the drawings for the panel shoot me a note off
> line to
> > LJS2(at)pge.com.
> >
> > Jearl Strickland #214
> >
> > --- Deems Davis wrote:
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Patrick O'Neil has also ordered his OP Tech
> systems.
> >>
> >>
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest Trip Write-up Complete (Atlanta/Orlando) |
| From: | "dherring10" <dherring10(at)suddenlink.net> |
Tim,
Another great, motivating, trip write-up. You need to keep them coming mainly to
help Lana realize why I am spending all that money!
Thanks,
Dwayne Herring
40506
Cabin top & doors (Yuck!)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140634#140634
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
Yes, a spring bias system. I've been thinking along the same lines for
several reasons - but haven't even attempted to sketch anything out yet.
I like the idea of not have an extra control surface whether a vane,
brake, or tab. A mechanical setup suggest simplicity but that is not
necessarily the case.
My Maule uses a spring with a T handle on the panel to adjust it. At
some point I'm going to get under the covers and look at that. It has
worked well for me.
The Vans rudder control design seems to present challenges for a bias
spring because of the lack of tension on the system. I'll be installing
that soon and will have a better sense of how that works.
Good dialog - Thanks.
Bill "went fly fishing off Montauk but anxious to get back to it" Watson
Durham #40605
William Curtis wrote:
>
> And now for something completely different.
>
> My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The Van's
aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no one
has considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal 177RG
uses a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar fully
mechanical spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
>
> In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that
applies (or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder trim.
The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may be usable
for the rudder trim.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder trim input needed |
The RV6 manual aileron trim is a spring bias - I modified that design with the
same servo as the elevator trim and put it in the hole where the aileron bellcrank
hides.
I'm thinking of a similar system with a couple of cables going forward, pulleyed
up to a joining point for the springs with a pushrod from the servo to set the
spring bias.
My .02
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
>Sent: Oct 18, 2007 1:53 PM
>To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Rudder trim input needed
>
>
>Yes, a spring bias system. I've been thinking along the same lines for
>several reasons - but haven't even attempted to sketch anything out yet.
>
>I like the idea of not have an extra control surface whether a vane,
>brake, or tab. A mechanical setup suggest simplicity but that is not
>necessarily the case.
>
>My Maule uses a spring with a T handle on the panel to adjust it. At
>some point I'm going to get under the covers and look at that. It has
>worked well for me.
>
>The Vans rudder control design seems to present challenges for a bias
>spring because of the lack of tension on the system. I'll be installing
>that soon and will have a better sense of how that works.
>
>Good dialog - Thanks.
>Bill "went fly fishing off Montauk but anxious to get back to it" Watson
>Durham #40605
>
>William Curtis wrote:
>>
>> And now for something completely different.
>>
>> My rudder trim will require absolutely NO modifications to the rudder. The
Van's aileron trim system uses a spring bias mechanism and I'm surprised no one
has considered using a similar system for the rudder trim. My Cardinal 177RG
uses a mechanical spring bias system and I intend to develop a similar fully
mechanical spring bias spring system for the RV-10.
>>
>> In the Cardinal, the mechanical trim wheel is turned moving an actuator that
applies (or removes) pressure to the rudder pedal assembly to effect rudder trim.
The same spring bias mechanism that is used for the aileron trim may be
usable for the rudder trim.
>>
>> William
>> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Op Tech panel at Oshkosh |
Swwweeeeeeeet!
Deems Davis # 406
'Its all done....Its just not put together'
http://deemsrv10.com/
do not arhive
Mr Luther Strickland wrote:
> All...
>
> Per Deems request!!
>
> ...L. Jearl Strickland #214
>
> --- Deems Davis wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>> Don't be bashful Luther, post it here so we can all
>> drool!
>>
>> Deems Davis # 406
>> 'Its all done....Its just not put together'
>> http://deemsrv10.com/
>>
>> Mr Luther Strickland wrote:
>>
>>>
>> Strickland
>>
>>> I've also opted for OP technologies. I've been
>>> working with Accuracy Avionics for about 8 months
>>>
>> now.
>>
>>> The panel should be ready for me to pick up in
>>>
>> the
>>
>>> next few weeks. If anyone is interested in a copy
>>>
>> of
>>
>>> the drawings for the panel shoot me a note off
>>>
>> line to
>>
>>> LJS2(at)pge.com.
>>>
>>> Jearl Strickland #214
>>>
>>> --- Deems Davis wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Patrick O'Neil has also ordered his OP Tech
>>>>
>> systems.
>>
>>>>
>
> __________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Everybody, thanks for the replies. Web site listed the finish kit at 48
inches wide. The actual box was 49" Just fit inside wheel wells.
Saved hauling the trailer to Dallas and back (200 mi round trip).
Now I need to get all this stuff attached and free up some room in the
shop!.
Fred Williams
40515.
Is osh 08 a dream??
tAirMike wrote:
>
> I picked up mine in my Toyota Sequoia. It was very tight and the dog had to share
the front seats with my wife and I, but we did it without anything on the
roof rack. We could have strapped the motor mount up there if necessary. We packed
very carefully and mercifully it was not raining in Aurora. The big gorillas
are the seats, the motor mounts and the cowling. Everything else is manageable.
The new fashionable pink cowling is a bit flimsy for the roof rack and
was my big concern. But it all went inside. On a truck get good tarps to protect
from wind and rain
>
> We also got the FWF kit at the same time
>
> --------
> OSH '08 or Bust
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140578#140578
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I set a goal when I started 10 months ago to fly to OSH 08. It looks like it is
getting harder to achieve. Engine coming in 60 days. Avionics seems to be the
real bitch of this whole project. Cabin top- doors and windows now
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140722#140722
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
G'day all,
For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs are
typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24 tab blo
ck on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the engine side - i
s 10 enough?
thanks in advance
Ron
187 finishing
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dynon Version 4.0 is now available to the public. |
| From: | "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com> |
Dynon Version 4.0 is now available to the public. Dynon and the
Beta Testers just finished up with all the Beta and Release testing of
this latest load. This version now includes full DSAB which mean you no
longer need the Serial cable between two Dynon products to share
information. So now any OAT connected to any unit can be used for %HP
calculations and well and True Airspeed. Software should now be up on
Dynon's Site.
Thank You
Ray Doerr
40250
N519RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com> |
I used only 1 tab on the engine side of the firewall. That one was for
the
oil pressure switch that connected the Hobbs meter to ground.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
N991RV
-----Original Message-----
G'day all,
For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs
are
typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24 tab
block on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the engine
side -
is 10 enough?
thanks in advance
Ron
187 finishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
Ron,
For a Lyc install, 10 is even way more than you need for the
smaller ground wires. You'll have almost nothing. You
will, however, want to make sure you have a good engine
and engine mount ground strap.
Tim
McGANN, Ron wrote:
> G'day all,
>
> For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs
> are typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24
> tab block on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the
> engine side - is 10 enough?
>
>
> thanks in advance
> Ron
> 187 finishing
>
> "Warning:
> The information contained in this email and any attached files is
> confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
> recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
> attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
> in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
> taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
> however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
> sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
> checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
> your computer."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
Forget the '08 or Bust, just enjoy building and it will get done when it
gets done. Otherwise you will drive yourself and everyone around you nuts.
It is a good plane and worth the wait.
Gary
40274
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 1:42 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Finish kit
I set a goal when I started 10 months ago to fly to OSH 08. It looks like it
is getting harder to achieve. Engine coming in 60 days. Avionics seems to be
the real bitch of this whole project. Cabin top- doors and windows now
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140722#140722
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
On the inside of the cabin, it will depend greatly on how much
you try to pull grounds back for all circuits to use the
single-point ground to prevent ground issues. I filled up
about 48 or more tabs on mine. I think the strip from B&C
was about 5" long or so. It won't hurt to buy oversized on the
ground tab block if you have room for it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Jesse Saint wrote:
> On the engine side I just have the one big ground from the engine to the
> airframe. I dont ground anything else on the front side. The 24 tab
> block should probably cover it on the cabin side.
>
>
>
>
>
> Jesse Saint
>
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>
> www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
>
> Cell: 352-427-0285
>
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* McGANN, Ron [mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, October 19, 2007 6:27 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Ground Tabs
>
>
>
> G'day all,
>
> For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs
> are typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24
> tab block on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the
> engine side - is 10 enough?
>
>
> thanks in advance
> Ron
> 187 finishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Starter Solonoid |
OK all you electrical gurus. I have two starter solonoids from Spruce that
have the two big terminals on each side and two small terminals in the
middle. Neither will activate when I apply 12V across the two small
terminals. In checking resistance I get an open (infinity) between all of
the terminals. I would expect a measured resistance between the two small
terminals and an open between the large terminals until activated.
Any suggestions, I thought I was a faulty unit but I bought these about two
years apart and both act the same. Spruce has no info and gave me the
manufacturer that made it, but they too don't have any info they import it
and it has no wiring info with it.
Gary
40274
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Solonoid |
I think you may find that you'll have your resistance from
a terminal to the case of the solenoid.
You may want to peruse the Aeroelectric site a bit and perhaps
the Van's wiring plans. It's been a while but I think one of
those small terminal is basically just a switch closure that will
be used for an indicator to show the contacts are closed.
I don't think you'll want to put power to that one when it's
closed or you may short something. Attached is a diagram that
should help perhaps, depending on your solenoid.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
gary wrote:
>
> OK all you electrical gurus. I have two starter solonoids from Spruce that
> have the two big terminals on each side and two small terminals in the
> middle. Neither will activate when I apply 12V across the two small
> terminals. In checking resistance I get an open (infinity) between all of
> the terminals. I would expect a measured resistance between the two small
> terminals and an open between the large terminals until activated.
>
> Any suggestions, I thought I was a faulty unit but I bought these about two
> years apart and both act the same. Spruce has no info and gave me the
> manufacturer that made it, but they too don't have any info they import it
> and it has no wiring info with it.
>
> Gary
> 40274
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Starter Solonoid |
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com> |
Check out the Tony Bingelis book "Firewall Forward". It should have
what you need. Or you can look at some of Tony's articles under
Homebuilders Headquarters on the EAA website. Here is a link to an
article with a schematic that looks like it will serve:
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/building/electrical/Developing%
20Your%20Electrical%20System%20Part%202.html#TopOfPage
It shows the starter contactor with the 12 v line from the battery going
to one of the big lugs, a heavy cable going from the other big lug to
the starter, and the starter switch going to one of the little
terminals. The other litle terminal should connect to your starter to
operate the "Bendix". My understanding (which is highly open to
question), is that the way the solenoid works, the starter switch
connects the 12 v current to ground through the coil of the solenoid,
energizing the electromagnet and activating the contactor. So to get
the coil to activate, you need +12V connected to one of the big lugs,
and GND connected to the little lug . At that time, you should see
essentially zero resistance between the two big lugs.
Since you've got two of them, give it a try. If you burn one up, you've
still got a spare.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
#40610
Tailcone complete - waiting on funding to proceed with QB kit
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 9:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter Solonoid
OK all you electrical gurus. I have two starter solonoids from Spruce
that have the two big terminals on each side and two small terminals in
the middle. Neither will activate when I apply 12V across the two small
terminals. In checking resistance I get an open (infinity) between all
of the terminals. I would expect a measured resistance between the two
small terminals and an open between the large terminals until activated.
Any suggestions, I thought I was a faulty unit but I bought these about
two years apart and both act the same. Spruce has no info and gave me
the manufacturer that made it, but they too don't have any info they
import it and it has no wiring info with it.
Gary
40274
_________________________________________________
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify
the sender
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk
- Portuguese
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Ron,
One more data point for you - I just looked and am using 5 tabs on the
engine side of the FW and can't imagine using more. Here's the list:
Oil Temp sensor, Fuel Pressure sensor, 2 hall effect current sensors
(dual electrical bus and I'm monitoring total current draw from each
alternator, and finally 1 for an old fashioned Oil Pressure switch like
you'd use for a hobbs (drives an oil pressure light - I have my EIS
remotely mounted and have all alerting via the EFIS so this is a
backup).
I'm using a GRT EIS if it makes a difference. Grounding sensors on the
cabin side wouldn't be a big deal if you wanted to totally avoid the
connections on the engine side - just more wire to run.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron
(AUS BAeA)
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 6:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Ground Tabs
G'day all,
For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs
are typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24
tab block on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the
engine side - is 10 enough?
thanks in advance
Ron
187 finishing
"Warning:
The information contained in this email and any attached files is
confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended
recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any
attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email
in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been
taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free,
however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the
sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus
checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to
your computer."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Starter Solonoid |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Gary,
The starter solenoid doesn't work like the master. The coil is
connected between the "S" terminal and ground - just apply 12v to the
"S" terminal to engage. The "I" terminal can be used a couple of
different ways - one common way is to indicate that the starter solenoid
is engaged and drive a light with it (+12v when engaged).
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 8:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter Solonoid
OK all you electrical gurus. I have two starter solonoids from Spruce
that
have the two big terminals on each side and two small terminals in the
middle. Neither will activate when I apply 12V across the two small
terminals. In checking resistance I get an open (infinity) between all
of
the terminals. I would expect a measured resistance between the two
small
terminals and an open between the large terminals until activated.
Any suggestions, I thought I was a faulty unit but I bought these about
two
years apart and both act the same. Spruce has no info and gave me the
manufacturer that made it, but they too don't have any info they import
it
and it has no wiring info with it.
Gary
40274
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lessdragprod(at)aol.com |
Just a point of clarification.=C2- (However, this does go back a few years
to what I think I=C2-remember.)
A single ground point refers to the same electrical ground potential, rather
than physically the same point.
Having a 24 tab block on the firewall=C2-back to back with a 10 tab block
on the engine side of the firewall=C2-should be both.
Not having=C2-ground wires=C2-go through the firewall sounds like a good
thing.=C2- However, the tab=C2-connections=C2-are more subject to the
elements (corrosion) on the front side of the firewall and should be protec
ted accordingly.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 6:25 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ground Tabs
=C2-
On the inside of the cabin, it will depend greatly on how much=C2-
you try to pull grounds back for all circuits to use the=C2-
single-point ground to prevent ground issues. I filled up=C2-
about 48 or more tabs on mine. I think the strip from B&C=C2-
was about 5" long or so. It won't hurt to buy oversized on the=C2-
ground tab block if you have room for it.=C2-
=C2-
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
Jesse Saint wrote:=C2-
> On the engine side I just have the one big ground from the engine to the >
airframe. I don=99t ground anything else on the front side. The 24 ta
b > block should probably cover it on the cabin side.=C2-
> > =C2-
> > > > Jesse Saint=C2-
> > Saint Aviation, Inc.=C2-
> > jesse(at)saintaviation.com =C2-
> > www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>=C2-
> > Cell: 352-427-0285=C2-
> > Fax: 815-377-3694=C2-
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
=C2-
> > *From:* McGANN, Ron [mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com]=C2-
> *Sent:* Friday, October 19, 2007 6:27 AM=C2-
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com=C2-
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Ground Tabs=C2-
> > > > G'day all,=C2-
> > For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs >
are typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24 > ta
b block on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the > engine si
de - is 10 enough?=C2-
> > > thanks in advance=C2-
> Ron=C2-
> 187 finishing=C2-
> =C2-
============C2-
============C2-
============C2-
=C2-
________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http
://mail.aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Muffler /Silencer |
| From: | "Michael Wellenzohn" <rv-10(at)wellenzohn.net> |
Is there anyone flying using a muffler /silencer on the -10 which complies with
ICAO chapter 10 noise test?
Michael
www.wellenzohn.net
--------
RV-10 builder (fuselage)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140771#140771
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | linn Walters <pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starter Solonoid |
I hate it when that happens!!! I've seen some 4 terminal solenoids that
used only one of the small terminals and used the case for ground. The
second small terminal isn't tied to anything! Probably has to do with
using one case style for both one and two terminal (or 3/4 if you will)
to cut down on inventory.
Good luck!
Linn
gary wrote:
>
>OK all you electrical gurus. I have two starter solonoids from Spruce that
>have the two big terminals on each side and two small terminals in the
>middle. Neither will activate when I apply 12V across the two small
>terminals. In checking resistance I get an open (infinity) between all of
>the terminals. I would expect a measured resistance between the two small
>terminals and an open between the large terminals until activated.
>
>Any suggestions, I thought I was a faulty unit but I bought these about two
>years apart and both act the same. Spruce has no info and gave me the
>manufacturer that made it, but they too don't have any info they import it
>and it has no wiring info with it.
>
>Gary
>40274
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Another new EFIS entry by the big guys... |
Anyone see this yet? Stein, got any info? Price, availability, selling to
the experimental market? Looks pretty sweet.
http://www.l-3avionics.com/products/smartdeck.aspx
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Starter Solonoid |
Thanks for all the responses. Since my unit is plastic with a metal bracket
for mounting, I totally overlooked the mounting bracket as one of the legs
of the contactor coil. Got it now, Thanks all.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 11:06 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Starter Solonoid
Gary,
The starter solenoid doesn't work like the master. The coil is
connected between the "S" terminal and ground - just apply 12v to the
"S" terminal to engage. The "I" terminal can be used a couple of
different ways - one common way is to indicate that the starter solenoid
is engaged and drive a light with it (+12v when engaged).
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 8:52 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Starter Solonoid
OK all you electrical gurus. I have two starter solonoids from Spruce
that
have the two big terminals on each side and two small terminals in the
middle. Neither will activate when I apply 12V across the two small
terminals. In checking resistance I get an open (infinity) between all
of
the terminals. I would expect a measured resistance between the two
small
terminals and an open between the large terminals until activated.
Any suggestions, I thought I was a faulty unit but I bought these about
two
years apart and both act the same. Spruce has no info and gave me the
manufacturer that made it, but they too don't have any info they import
it
and it has no wiring info with it.
Gary
40274
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Another new EFIS entry by the big guys... |
I was looking at that this morning after the AOPA email newsletter mentioned
it. Looks like some neat stuff. It has some gorgeous graphics.
I was happy to see another 2" attitude indicator option until I saw the $8k
price tag for it. All the "stand by" gear in their price list is in the
$40k plus range so I didn't invest too much time getting excited about it.
But regardless I'm very happy to see new entries in the market.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder
(Michael Sausen)
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 11:30 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Another new EFIS entry by the big guys...
Anyone see this yet? Stein, got any info? Price, availability, selling to
the experimental market? Looks pretty sweet.
http://www.l-3avionics.com/products/smartdeck.aspx
Michael
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Could also have grounds for P-Mags and E-Mags that might go to the FW
instead of engine? Why not just put the small B&C block on the other side
(FW side) of the internal (Cabin side) big block and have plenty? BUT 10
should be plenty!
Bill 7a Ark
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 10:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ground Tabs
Ron,
One more data point for you - I just looked and am using 5 tabs on the
engine side of the FW and can't imagine using more. Here's the list: Oil
Temp sensor, Fuel Pressure sensor, 2 hall effect current sensors (dual
electrical bus and I'm monitoring total current draw from each alternator,
and finally 1 for an old fashioned Oil Pressure switch like you'd use for a
hobbs (drives an oil pressure light - I have my EIS remotely mounted and
have all alerting via the EFIS so this is a backup).
I'm using a GRT EIS if it makes a difference. Grounding sensors on the
cabin side wouldn't be a big deal if you wanted to totally avoid the
connections on the engine side - just more wire to run.
Bob #40105
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of McGann, Ron (AUS
BAeA)
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 6:27 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Ground Tabs
G'day all,
For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs are
typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24 tab
block on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the engine side -
is 10 enough?
thanks in advance
Ron
187 finishing
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Throttle cable lengths with throttle quad option |
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
I am planning on the throttle quadrant and the Accuracy Avionics center console.
Is anyone else going this combination and already hooked up their engine cables?
I am approaching time to order the FF kit and would like to custom order the cables
if I need to add a couple inches to each one to make them fit correctly.
There has been some discussion about lengths due to alternate routing but I don't
remember anything including the AA center console.
Gary Blankenbiller
40674
KF29
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=140838#140838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Thanks for all the responses guys. I have no shortage of ground tabs insid
e the cabin, the 24 tab block is connected to a couple of 25 pin dsubs gang
ed together and connected ala Nuckolls. I'll go with the 10 tab block on t
he engine side.
Jim - what do you use for corrosion protection of the engine side block??
cheers,
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of lessdragprod(at)aol.com
Sent: Sat 20/10/2007 00:45
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ground Tabs
Just a point of clarification. (However, this does go back a few years to
what I think I remember.)
A single ground point refers to the same electrical ground potential, rathe
r than physically the same point.
Having a 24 tab block on the firewall back to back with a 10 tab block on t
he engine side of the firewall should be both.
Not having ground wires go through the firewall sounds like a good thing.
However, the tab connections are more subject to the elements (corrosion) o
n the front side of the firewall and should be protected accordingly.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com>
Sent: Fri, 19 Oct 2007 6:25 am
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ground Tabs
On the inside of the cabin, it will depend greatly on how much
you try to pull grounds back for all circuits to use the
single-point ground to prevent ground issues. I filled up
about 48 or more tabs on mine. I think the strip from B&C
was about 5" long or so. It won't hurt to buy oversized on the
ground tab block if you have room for it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Jesse Saint wrote:
> On the engine side I just have the one big ground from the engine to the
> airframe. I don't ground anything else on the front side. The 24 tab > bl
ock should probably cover it on the cabin side.
> >
> > > > Jesse Saint
> > Saint Aviation, Inc.
> > jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> > www.saintaviation.com <http://www.saintaviation.com>
> > Cell: 352-427-0285
> > Fax: 815-377-3694
> > -----------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> > *From:* McGANN, Ron [mailto:ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, October 19, 2007 6:27 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Ground Tabs
> > > > G'day all,
> > For those that have completed the engine install, how many ground tabs
> are typically required on the engine side of the firewall? I have a 24 >
tab block on the cabin side and plan a smaller 10 tab block on the > engine
side - is 10 enough?
> > > thanks in advance
October 08, 2007 - October 20, 2007
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cq