RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cu

November 24, 2007 - November 30, 2007



Date: Nov 24, 2007
Pulled out the TruTrak Pitch Servo yesterday for install in my Ten. I found the "Installation & Users Manual" with no install instructions for the Servo. Am I missing something? Went to the TruTrak website, "Documents & Drawings" and found two photos. That's it. No instructions, no drawings, and no measurements of any kind. Anyone else have this problem. If so, what did you do? Install seems easy enough, but I'd feel better with instructions and they're closed over the Thanksgiving Holidays until Monday. Maybe someone has a copy they can email me? Chuck RV9A (flying) RV10 (70% done, 70% left) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bruce Bluhm <bmbluhm(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: paint prices
Date: Nov 24, 2007
The 10 is a different animal than the two seaters. The large fiberglass co ckpit with its doors and windows makes it diffucult to get a quote without seeing the airplane and discussing what extra fit and prep is desired or re quired for a nice finished plane. The painter who did 805HL (Top Gun Refin ishers) was on our base airport (Aurora, Nebraska) and we worked a deal whe re we would do the finish work and they would stripe and paint the aircraft . They also gave us advice on what still needed to be done for a good resu lt. We thought it was ready to paint when we took it the first time and th ey pointed out some areas where we could improve like pinholes, more unifor m curves, juncture of fiberglass on the fuselage and elevators, etc. After a month and a half of corrections and improvements we painted the plane. So depending on how prepared the plane is for painting and how much of the finishing you want the shop to do and to what finished state you expect the result to be, the price can vary quite a bit. I would definately suggest you talk to a paint shop who has expirence with RV's and go over all of the above after they have looked at the plane before price is discussed. I be lieve this area is much overlooked on our RV's. To the non-builder their i mpression of the airplane is governed mostly by the paint job and the inter ior. It takes another builder to really see the quality or lack of it beyo nd these two items. Bruce 805HL 110hrs From: dlm46007(at)cox.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: paint pricesDate: Fri, 23 Nov 2007 13:31:57 -0700 what kind of quotes and recommendations have 10 builders for aircraft paint ? My plans are a base color of Jetglo matterhorn white and a trim color of Acryglo deep marroon. Design will be basic. I am located AZ so places east of the Mississippi don't compute. Any recommendations for western US. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Hertner" <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
Date: Nov 24, 2007
Chuck, We have all had to muddle through this without clear instructions. The best way I found was to go to Tim Olson's site and get a feeling about how it installs. It is no more complicated than you think it is. You don't use the bracket supplied by Van's. Dave Hertner 40164 Putting Insulation on the Firewall ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 12:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak > > Pulled out the TruTrak Pitch Servo yesterday for install in my Ten. I > found the > "Installation & Users Manual" with no install instructions for the Servo. > Am I missing something? Went to the TruTrak website, "Documents & > Drawings" and found two photos. That's it. No instructions, no drawings, > and no measurements of any kind. Anyone else have this problem. If so, > what did you do? Install seems easy enough, but I'd feel better with > instructions > and they're closed over the Thanksgiving Holidays until Monday. Maybe > someone > has a copy they can email me? > Chuck > RV9A (flying) > RV10 (70% done, 70% left) > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 24, 2007
I'm just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next aircraft? I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the wingtip. Thanks, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 24, 2007
I had a bit of a go round a couple of weeks ago with TT on installation of the pitch servo. To help out I printed an instruction manual. The top tech guy said that he would edit my instructions and get back to me, but he is obviously busy and never got back. The biggest problem that I had is with the spacer that is tooooo long. My next post will be my UNEDITED instructions -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148325#148325 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 24, 2007
From: pilotdds(at)aol.com
I have the wingtip lights supplied by vans,I have found them somewhat lackin g on dark nights for both landing and taxiing.There appears to be a poorly l it area directly in front of the pilot.I have adjusted them to max benefit,T hey are usable but not great in my application. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com> Sent: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 1:22 pm Subject: RV10-List: Landing Light Question I=99m just getting ready to order my wings. =C2- For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on wha t lighting you installed or would you=C2- do the same thing in your next a ircraft? =C2- I=99m debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the wingtip. =C2- Thanks, Bob =C2- - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts! - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -======================== -= - The RV10-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List -======================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! -= --> http://forums.matronics.com -======================== ________________________________________________________________________ Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http ://mail.aol.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 24, 2007
I'm not happy with the wingtip lights myself. If I try to get them to converge toward the center so that the center stripe shows up, the wingtip blocks a lot of the light. I think I will add an additional light either in the cowl or in the leading edge of one wing. The light themselves are bright enough I think but leave a very dark area right in front of the plane. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- I'm just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next aircraft? I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the wingtip. Thanks, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Bill Gipson <gipsowh(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 24, 2007
Check out the Aerosun LED landing lights. I've installed in my 10, yet to fly. www.aeroleds.com From: rv(at)thelefflers.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Land ing Light QuestionDate: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:22:49 -0500 I=92m just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on wh at lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next airc raft? I=92m debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in th e wingtip. Thanks, Bob _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista=AE + Windows Live=99. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_C PC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2007
From: "Eric Ekberg" <etekberg(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Trutrak AP
Just as another datapoint, my alt hold won't turn off either on my VS (or VSG - I don't recall). I read through the manual several times and eventually reached the conclusion that the problem wasn't with me. I've been meaning to investigate further, but haven't gotten around to it. On Nov 22, 2007 7:54 AM, Perry Casson - Home wrote: > Pretty darn sure pressing "Alt" a 2nd time would turn off Alt Hold on my > unit. Not sure what version I'm running but will check later today. > > > Perry > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David McNeill > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 21, 2007 11:29 PM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Trutrak AP > > > I have have the Digiflite II V2.20. The aircraft is not flying; roll servo > harness is in dsub for wing connection. pitch servo harness is connected to > the elevator control horn. When testing the controller, I find that the > units turns on and properly indicates when receiving the GPS signal. The > Problem is that the *ALT Hold* function can not be disengaged without > going into setup mode and and turning off the pitch servo altogether. Is > something wrong with the harness? the unit? or are these strange results in > response to a system only partially connected? TT has updated the software > once already and the aircraft has not left the garage. > > * * > > * * > > *http://www.matronics.com/contribution* > > *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List* > > *http://forums.matronics.com* > > ** > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 25, 2007
Are there any RV's that are flying with the AeroLEDs installed? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gipson Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 10:22 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question Check out the Aerosun LED landing lights. I've installed in my 10, yet to fly. www.aeroleds.com _____ From: rv(at)thelefflers.com Subject: RV10-List: Landing Light Question Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:22:49 -0500 I'm just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next aircraft? I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the wingtip. Thanks, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 25, 2007
Albert, Are you using the standard Van's OP36 kit? Although I would suspect if there are shadowing issues, they would be present in all the other wing tip vendors solutions too. Thanks, bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 9:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question I'm not happy with the wingtip lights myself. If I try to get them to converge toward the center so that the center stripe shows up, the wingtip blocks a lot of the light. I think I will add an additional light either in the cowl or in the leading edge of one wing. The light themselves are bright enough I think but leave a very dark area right in front of the plane. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- I'm just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next aircraft? I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the wingtip. Thanks, Bob __________ NOD32 2684 (20071125) Information __________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Light Question
From: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade2163(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Nov 25, 2007
Lopesti has a kit for the RV10. Fits right in the tip. 1000000 lumins. I fly in and out of an unlit grass strip and the lights are the only reason I can the old lights were useless. The Loprestis light the runway from end to end. Also you can run them all the time, because power draw is minimal and the bulb has a 5000 hour life. Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148368#148368 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 25, 2007
Hmmm...... I can't seem to find these on their web site. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Julie Wade Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 7:55 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Landing Light Question Lopesti has a kit for the RV10. Fits right in the tip. 1000000 lumins. I fly in and out of an unlit grass strip and the lights are the only reason I can the old lights were useless. The Loprestis light the runway from end to end. Also you can run them all the time, because power draw is minimal and the bulb has a 5000 hour life. Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148368#148368 __________ NOD32 2684 (20071125) Information __________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Nov 25, 2007
The Trio servos are the same way. They had a few general suggestions and some photos of RV-6s, but you're on your own. They also gave a pretty good idea on where it fits to the bellcrank. While we are on the subject, I plan on creating a mounting plate that takes advantage of the two outboard bolts that attach the bellcrank bracket to the spar. The problem is the outboard end of the mounting plate needs support as well. I'm reluctant to drill the spar for a pull rivet - any comments? John -------- #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148376#148376 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 25, 2007
The lights are not on the LoPresti web site. Give them a call and they will direct you to them. I tried to install them on my airplane and they would not fit with the SafeAir1 ER tip tanks. They would have been fine without the tip tanks. I know Jim Wade has tip tanks and the LoPresti lights. His was the prototype installation done by LoPresti and I suspect the brackets may be slightly different. The brackets that came with my kit did not match the dimensions of the brackets in the scale drawings, and I am pretty sure that caused my problem. The folks at LoPresti are very good to work with and provide good customer service. David Maib 40559 On Nov 25, 2007, at 7:32 AM, Bob Leffler wrote: Hmmm...... I can't seem to find these on their web site. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim & Julie Wade Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 7:55 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Landing Light Question Lopesti has a kit for the RV10. Fits right in the tip. 1000000 lumins. I fly in and out of an unlit grass strip and the lights are the only reason I can the old lights were useless. The Loprestis light the runway from end to end. Also you can run them all the time, because power draw is minimal and the bulb has a 5000 hour life. Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148368#148368 __________ NOD32 2684 (20071125) Information __________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 25, 2007
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
I don't see pricing for the Boom Beam system on their site. Do anyone know about what they cost? Robin 40570 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2007
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Rivethead Aero
Hi I was trying to access the Rivet Head website and was unable to connect. Does anyone know if there is a problem with Rivethead (aside from there legendary slow response time?) Cheers Les Kearney #40643 - Still singing the section 29 blues (but on the last few bars) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Good flying over vacation
Tim Olson wrote: > > > I'm pretty darn impressed with the climb in the RV-10. When > you're alone, if you keep that nose up and climb at 105-110 kts, > you're going up a pretty steep escalator. I found myself > level at 8500' (ground is about 900 here) at 5 minutes 20 seconds > today, and that wasn't climbing at either Vx or Vy...just > doing a normal non-precision relaxed climb. > > You guys, you're really gonna love your airplanes! > You're killing me! ;-) Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 25, 2007
Pitch Servo Installation RV10 As supplied with torque enhancement rail 1. Confirm that a .20 hole has been drilled in the proper position on the bellcrank per the plans for the RV10. Placement and sizing of this hole is of the utmost importance. 2. If it came with your kit, remove (discard or use for another function) the pitch servo bracket supplied by Vans Aircraft. Use only the pitch servo bracket supplied with the autopilot servo by TruTrak. 3. Place the servo unit on a stable surface and remove the stainless steel screw and nylon washer holding the drive wheel and torque rail to the drive shaft. Carefully set the screw and nylon washer aside. Note the small brass screw on the drive wheel so that you can reposition it in the same position as it is when removed. Carefully pry or lift the drive wheel and torque rail off of the drive shaft. 4. Take the drive wheel rail and torque rail. On the forward edge take the eyebolt and screw the Rod end bearing #MM-3-300 into the torque rail approximately half way, using the supplied standard nut as a locking device. Tighten the nut against the aluminum torque rail. 5. Attach the servo bracket to the airframe per the photo supplied by TruTrak. Please note that bracket is attached to the inside right line of bolts adjacent to the bellcrank. Secure the (3) AN3 bolts and the (1) single AN515-8R8 screw and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. 6. Position the servo motor on the outside of the bracket in such a way as the drive wheel protrudes thru the bracket and the four bolt holes on the bracket line up with the four bolt holes on the servo motor. When you look at the servo unit, the electric motor will be aft and the Connector plug part of the servo will be forward with the connector plug facing outward (away from the bellcrank) 7. Attach the servo motor to the bracket using the four supplied AN3 bolts and the rough washers. Secure the AN3 bolts and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. Safety wire the four bolts at your option. 8. Reposition the drive wheel in the same position as it is when removed. Reattach the stainless steel screw and nylon washer to the drive shaft (now with the attached eyebolt). 9. Secure the rod end to the bellcrank as follows: Insert supplied AN3 bolt through the bellcrank from the pilot side insert aluminum spacer insert rod end bearing insert large cadmium plated washer and secure these pieces with 10-32 lock nut. Torque to the proper value and mark the torqued bolts as before. 10. Check that , when moved, the toque rail clears the two retaining bolts on the upper side of the servo motor. 11. This is a good time to be sure that you have made provision to install/secure the static lines and install any needed security fittings for the wire/s that operate the pitch servo unit. -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148485#148485 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 25, 2007
Yea - he has my money - I hope that I get my door pins. I think that I sent the money in early October. It is concerning that his web site is down -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148488#148488 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 25, 2007
Yes, my wingtips are totally stock. I don't think brighter lights are the answer because of the shadowing issue. I really like to get the center stripe up even at a familiar field. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Albert, Are you using the standard Van's OP36 kit? Although I would suspect if there are shadowing issues, they would be present in all the other wing tip vendors solutions too. Thanks, bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud(at)roadrunner.com>
Subject: RV-10 Total Flight Time - Submit yours
Date: Nov 25, 2007
-----Original Message----- N591VU 110hours N991RV 12 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
From: David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 25, 2007
I think the normal price is about $800 for the complete kit. David 40559 On Nov 25, 2007, at 10:35 AM, Robin Marks wrote: I don't see pricing for the Boom Beam system on their site. Do anyone know about what they cost? Robin 40570 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: paint prices
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 25, 2007
I was quoted ( over the phone) 7K-9K by Kracon in Lincoln, CA They are a respected shop, but it was sight unseen, and a few details in the quote showed that they were unfamiliar with the RV10. Quote required removal and reinstall of control surfaces -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148503#148503 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
Date: Nov 25, 2007
He's slow but I am pretty sure he's always delivered. I recently got my door pin set after about a 3 month wait. -Ben Westfall #40579 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 6:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero Yea - he has my money - I hope that I get my door pins. I think that I sent the money in early October. It is concerning that his web site is down -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148488#148488 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2007
From: Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
step 8: Use loctite on the stainless steel screw. Larry Rosen #356 AirMike wrote: > > Pitch Servo Installation RV10 > As supplied with torque enhancement rail > 1. Confirm that a .20 hole has been drilled in the proper position on the bellcrank per the plans for the RV10. Placement and sizing of this hole is of the utmost importance. > 2. If it came with your kit, remove (discard or use for another function) the pitch servo bracket supplied by Vans Aircraft. Use only the pitch servo bracket supplied with the autopilot servo by TruTrak. > 3. Place the servo unit on a stable surface and remove the stainless steel screw and nylon washer holding the drive wheel and torque rail to the drive shaft. Carefully set the screw and nylon washer aside. Note the small brass screw on the drive wheel so that you can reposition it in the same position as it is when removed. Carefully pry or lift the drive wheel and torque rail off of the drive shaft. > 4. Take the drive wheel rail and torque rail. On the forward edge take the eyebolt and screw the Rod end bearing #MM-3-300 into the torque rail approximately half way, using the supplied standard nut as a locking device. Tighten the nut against the aluminum torque rail. > 5. Attach the servo bracket to the airframe per the photo supplied by TruTrak. Please note that bracket is attached to the inside right line of bolts adjacent to the bellcrank. Secure the (3) AN3 bolts and the (1) single AN515-8R8 screw and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. > 6. Position the servo motor on the outside of the bracket in such a way as the drive wheel protrudes thru the bracket and the four bolt holes on the bracket line up with the four bolt holes on the servo motor. When you look at the servo unit, the electric motor will be aft and the Connector plug part of the servo will be forward with the connector plug facing outward (away from the bellcrank) > 7. Attach the servo motor to the bracket using the four supplied AN3 bolts and the rough washers. Secure the AN3 bolts and torque to the proper value. Mark the torqued bolts with security paint or colored nail polish. Safety wire the four bolts at your option. > 8. Reposition the drive wheel in the same position as it is when removed. Reattach the stainless steel screw and nylon washer to the drive shaft (now with the attached eyebolt). > 9. Secure the rod end to the bellcrank as follows: Insert supplied AN3 bolt through the bellcrank from the pilot side insert aluminum spacer insert rod end bearing insert large cadmium plated washer and secure these pieces with 10-32 lock nut. Torque to the proper value and mark the torqued bolts as before. > 10. Check that , when moved, the toque rail clears the two retaining bolts on the upper side of the servo motor. > 11. This is a good time to be sure that you have made provision to install/secure the static lines and install any needed security fittings for the wire/s that operate the pitch servo unit. > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148485#148485 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: paint prices
As it should. Control surfaces should be painted off the plane and re-balanced before install. Paint does change the balance. On Nov 25, 2007 8:14 PM, AirMike wrote: > - > Quote required removal and reinstall of control surfaces > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 25, 2007
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
Hi Again Does anyone have a phone # for Rivethead. I was planning to order a door pin set. Cheers Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: November-25-07 8:25 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero He's slow but I am pretty sure he's always delivered. I recently got my door pin set after about a 3 month wait. -Ben Westfall #40579 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 6:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero Yea - he has my money - I hope that I get my door pins. I think that I sent the money in early October. It is concerning that his web site is down -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148488#148488 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
Date: Nov 26, 2007
All I can say is check the archives regards Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Les Kearney" <kearney(at)shaw.ca> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 2:57 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero > > Hi Again > > Does anyone have a phone # for Rivethead. I was planning to order a door > pin > set. > > Cheers > > Les > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall > Sent: November-25-07 8:25 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero > > > He's slow but I am pretty sure he's always delivered. I recently got my > door pin set after about a 3 month wait. > > -Ben Westfall > #40579 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike > Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 6:00 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero > > Yea - he has my money - I hope that I get my door pins. I think that I > sent > the money in early October. It is concerning that his web site is down > > -------- > OSH '08 or Bust > Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148488#148488 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2007
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published Dec
1! Dear Listers, The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! On December 1st I post a list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists. Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation for the Lists. As a number of people have pointed out in their Contribution comments, these Lists seems at least as valuable of a building/flying/recreating tool as a typical your magazine subscription! And how interactive is a magazine, after all? Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment about how the Lists have helped you! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Good flying over vacation
Date: Nov 26, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
Deems - Tim did not say Love deflected, it's just implied your was delayed, so think of all that excitement around the corner like dating in high school. Most of us are waiting for your report of the first few dates. John Cox -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 5:41 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Good flying over vacation Tim Olson wrote: > > > I'm pretty darn impressed with the climb in the RV-10. When > you're alone, if you keep that nose up and climb at 105-110 kts, > you're going up a pretty steep escalator. I found myself > level at 8500' (ground is about 900 here) at 5 minutes 20 seconds > today, and that wasn't climbing at either Vx or Vy...just > doing a normal non-precision relaxed climb. > > You guys, you're really gonna love your airplanes! > You're killing me! ;-) Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: paint prices
From: "tintopranch" <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 26, 2007
I got my RV10 painted at Texas Aerocolor (www.texasaerocolor.com) in Brady, TX. They did a great job, he has painted 3 RV10s. I paided $8,500 plus $600 for some fiberglass work around the windows. -------- MARK SUTHERLAND RV-10 40292 Flying since June 07 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148603#148603 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Search the RV10 archives for "TT Pitch Servo Install Directions". I posted the hole location in a follow up email after talking to a TT engineer. The hole location isn't too critical, but don't forget to safety wire the bolts together (thanks Bob). I didn't even see the holes until they were pointed out to me... Regards, Jay fiberglass purgatory Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148618#148618 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2007
From: Nick Gautier <Thomas.N.Gautier(at)jpl.nasa.gov>
Subject: Securing main tank drain valves
All, I'm coming, at last, to the end of the wings and I'm looking at a final installation of the CAV-110 drain valve for the fuel tanks. I ask myself "How do I make sure this little sucker never loosens up and falls out in flight, leaving me high and dry?" Of course I always drain a bit from the tanks on the first flight of the day and after refueling, etc., so you would think any problem would easy to spot before real trouble. But, a tank draining in flight is sort of catastrophic and any loosening with fuel drips, etc. that you fix on the ground is, at best, annoying. So, what's the wisdom of the group? Jesse tells me to use fuel lube and, presumably, then depend on the tapered pipe thread for security. I thought I heard something about using some kind of Loctite here. It's also easy enough to rivet a little tab on the skin behind the drain valve and drill the valve hex for a safety wire. Does anyone EVER have a problem with just tightening against the tapered thread? Also, I'd like to hear what the pros like John Cox think. Regards, Nick Gautier #40363 end of the wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Thanks all who responded. The bellcrank hole position of 2.25" up and .5" aft was all I needed I guess. I did however, already remove the pulley without paying any attention to the location of the brass screw. Now, any ideas on how I'm to get the pulley back into the right/correct position on the shaft? Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: "jayb" <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 7:46 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Lack of Install Instructions TruTrak > > Search the RV10 archives for "TT Pitch Servo Install Directions". I posted > the hole location in a follow up email after talking to a TT engineer. The > hole location isn't too critical, but don't forget to safety wire the > bolts together (thanks Bob). I didn't even see the holes until they were > pointed out to me... > > Regards, > Jay > fiberglass purgatory ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 26, 2007
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
I have seen Bill's AeroLED's and (even though I'm still a ways away) I plan on using the AeroLED 1600's too. They're insanely bright, simple to install, and they only pull 2amps. I'm looking forward to the saving a little bit of weight on smaller wiring. But even with those benefits, the primary selling point for me is the wig-wag functionality. The wig-wag controller is built into the lights and you only need to run 1 extra wire from the lights to the cockpit switch. When you close the switch, the lights begin running in wig-wag mode. No extra boxes, or anything. They're just really bright, simple to install, and very functional. Phil ________________________________ From: Bob Leffler [mailto:rv(at)thelefflers.com] Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 6:39 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question Are there any RV's that are flying with the AeroLEDs installed? From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gipson Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 10:22 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question Check out the Aerosun LED landing lights. I've installed in my 10, yet to fly. www.aeroleds.com ________________________________ From: rv(at)thelefflers.com Subject: RV10-List: Landing Light Question Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:22:49 -0500 I'm just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next aircraft? I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the wingtip. Thanks, Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Subject: Landing Light Question
From: "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
So LED are cool but why pay $325 for one 1600 lumens LED when the standard H3 bulb in the $100 dual kit from Vans puts out 1550 lumens? I'm sure they will last a lot longer however, that's a lot of H3 bulbs to get up to the cost of those LED. Unless you reeeeally need low power consumption or low heat, LED landing and taxi light just don't make sense at those prices and light levels--IMHO. Me, I'll have two standard H3s in the wingtips that can wing-wag and a single HID in the cowl, ala Cirrus. Actually, the recognition lights in the Cirrus wingtips are also LED, but these are recognition, not flood like the HID in the cowling. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ -------- Original Message -------- > X-Rcpt-To: > > Are there any RV's that are flying with the AeroLEDs installed? > > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gipson > Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 10:22 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question > > > > Check out the Aerosun LED landing lights. I've installed in my 10, yet to > fly. > www.aeroleds.com > > > > > _____ > > From: rv(at)thelefflers.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Landing Light Question > Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:22:49 -0500 > > I'm just getting ready to order my wings. > > > > For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on > what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next > aircraft? > > > > I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the > wingtip. > > > > Thanks, > > Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
Approach it like ordering your panel, order it at least 9 months before you need it and cross your fingers. :-) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 9:57 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero Hi Again Does anyone have a phone # for Rivethead. I was planning to order a door pin set. Cheers Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: November-25-07 8:25 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero He's slow but I am pretty sure he's always delivered. I recently got my door pin set after about a 3 month wait. -Ben Westfall #40579 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 6:00 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead Aero Yea - he has my money - I hope that I get my door pins. I think that I sent the money in early October. It is concerning that his web site is down -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148488#148488 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "don wentz" <dasduck(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Bob, I have heard from many RV pilots that they wished they would have used my Leading Edge lights instead of the tip lights, especially due to the 'blanking' issue. This ranges from long-time RV guys with the big tip lights, to the newer 2" tip lights, both guys I know and strangers that I meet at Oshkosh. The LE location prevents light from going where you don't want it (like up) and the shape of the cutout allows it to spread down, to the front and to the sides, where you do want the light. Another benefit to my kits is the great diversity in lamps that can be used. You can start with any one of the kits and be assured of a simple upgrade to newer lamps as they come available or as your needs change. At some point in the future, LED lamps will be a great solution. While they are very bright to 'look at' (making them a good solution for running lights and brake lights, especially with their low power draw), they still don't project enough light over a long distance (as compared to HID). Dollar per Lumen, the HID lights are currently the brightest, they last long, and have a low draw. I understand that the newer tip with the cutout is a very tempting place to put lights, and for some pilot's needs that option is acceptable. For those that want a complete, flexible solution, you may want to take another look at the Duckworks lights. Please feel free to contact me if you have questions. Don Duckworks Aviation LLC _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:47 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question Albert, Are you using the standard Van's OP36 kit? Although I would suspect if there are shadowing issues, they would be present in all the other wing tip vendors solutions too. Thanks, bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert Gardner Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 9:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question I'm not happy with the wingtip lights myself. If I try to get them to converge toward the center so that the center stripe shows up, the wingtip blocks a lot of the light. I think I will add an additional light either in the cowl or in the leading edge of one wing. The light themselves are bright enough I think but leave a very dark area right in front of the plane. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message----- I'm just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next aircraft? I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the wingtip. Thanks, Bob http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com __________ NOD32 2684 (20071125) Information __________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Subject: Landing Light Question
This comment is geared more to the DIY crowd out there, hey we are building experimental aircraft aren't we. If you look around the net a little you can make comparable setups to the Aerosun's for probably $50 in change. If you break down the Aerosun product into individual LED's you end up with 200 lumens per LED for the 1600 and 100 lumens per LED for the 800. A quick check on eBay shows Luxeon 95 Lumen LED's for about $2.95 each plus shipping. So for 8 of these you are looking at about $29.55 + another $15 or so for 10 lenses for them. Again, I spent maybe 5 minutes looking around for current LED prices so I'm sure you can do better if you really hunt a bit. I'm also fairly certain Luxeon is selling LED's up above 150 Lumens each. Not knocking the Aerosuns product, they actually seem reasonably priced given development and the whole packaging. LED's are going to continue to get cheaper and brighter. Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 12:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question So LED are cool but why pay $325 for one 1600 lumens LED when the standard H3 bulb in the $100 dual kit from Vans puts out 1550 lumens? I'm sure they will last a lot longer however, that's a lot of H3 bulbs to get up to the cost of those LED. Unless you reeeeally need low power consumption or low heat, LED landing and taxi light just don't make sense at those prices and light levels--IMHO. Me, I'll have two standard H3s in the wingtips that can wing-wag and a single HID in the cowl, ala Cirrus. Actually, the recognition lights in the Cirrus wingtips are also LED, but these are recognition, not flood like the HID in the cowling. William http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/ -------- Original Message -------- > X-Rcpt-To: > > Are there any RV's that are flying with the AeroLEDs installed? > > > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Gipson > Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 10:22 PM > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question > > > Check out the Aerosun LED landing lights. I've installed in my 10, yet to > fly. > www.aeroleds.com > > > _____ > > From: rv(at)thelefflers.com > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Landing Light Question > Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2007 16:22:49 -0500 > > I'm just getting ready to order my wings. > > > For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on > what lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next > aircraft? > > > I'm debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in the > wingtip. > > > Thanks, > > Bob ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Landing Light Question
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Don, For the most part I really like your product. The were some contradictions in you installation instructions that need to be cleared up as the pictures show one thing but the, directions sa y another, (distances from rivet lines.) Also the distances between the ribs were quite different from what the manual stated and I needed to m ake my own alterations to the lamp trays. I used the second bay between ribs and not the last bay as I wanted more access to the AOA installation in the last bay. The last bay on the 10 also has quite a long span between ribs which would also allow much more of a harmonic to develop with engine and flight vibration. For the most part, nice kit and thanks. John G. 409 From: dasduck(at)comcast.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: Lan ding Light QuestionDate: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 11:05:56 -0800 Bob, I have heard from many RV pilots that they wished they would have used my L eading Edge lights instead of the tip lights, especially due to the 'blanki ng' issue. This ranges from long-time RV guys with the big tip lights, to the newer 2" tip lights, both guys I know and strangers that I meet at Oshkosh. The LE location prevents light from going where you don't want it (like up) and the shape of the cutout allows it to spread down, to the front and to the sides, where you do want the light. Another benefit to my kits is the great diversity in lamps that can be used . You can start with any one of the kits and be assured of a simple upgrade t o newer lamps as they come available or as your needs change. At some point in the future, LED lamps will be a great solution. While the y are very bright to 'look at' (making them a good solution for running lig hts and brake lights, especially with their low power draw), they still don 't project enough light over a long distance (as compared to HID). Dollar per Lumen, the HID lights are currently the brightest, they last lon g, and have a low draw. I understand that the newer tip with the cutout is a very tempting place to put lights, and for some pilot's needs that option is acceptable. For those that want a complete, flexible solution, you may want to take ano ther look at the Duckworks lights. Please feel free to contact me if you have questions. Don Duckworks Aviation LLC From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob LefflerSent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:47 AMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Question Albert, Are you using the standard Van=92s OP36 kit? Although I would suspect if there are shadowing issues, they would be prese nt in all the other wing tip vendors solutions too. Thanks, bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Albert GardnerSent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 9:41 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Landing Light Que stion I=92m not happy with the wingtip lights myself. If I try to get them to con verge toward the center so that the center stripe shows up, the wingtip blo cks a lot of the light. I think I will add an additional light either in th e cowl or in the leading edge of one wing. The light themselves are bright enough I think but leave a very dark area right in front of the plane. Albert Gardner Yuma, AZ -----Original Message-----I=92m just getting ready to order my wings. For those of you that are flying, would you make a different decision on wh at lighting you installed or would you do the same thing in your next airc raft? I=92m debating between the Duckworks HID in the leading edge or a HID in th e wingtip. Thanks, Bob http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator ?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com __________ NOD32 2684 (20071125) Information __________ href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.co m/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: Securing main tank drain valves
Date: Nov 26, 2007
The only problem I ever had with the drain valves was that they were excessively tight, to the point that I could not move the valves to drain fuel from the tanks. Try installing your first drain valve. I think the number of threads and the torque required will give you a better feel that they won't be going anywhere soon. Anh N591VU-115hrs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nick Gautier" <Thomas.N.Gautier(at)jpl.nasa.gov> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 12:54 PM Subject: RV10-List: Securing main tank drain valves > > > > > All, > > I'm coming, at last, to the end of the wings and I'm looking at > a final installation of the CAV-110 drain valve for the fuel tanks. > I ask myself "How do I make sure this little sucker never loosens > up and falls out in flight, leaving me high and dry?" > > Of course I always drain a bit from the tanks on the first flight > of the day and after refueling, etc., so you would think any problem > would easy to spot before real trouble. But, a tank draining in flight > is sort of catastrophic and any loosening with fuel drips, etc. that > you fix on the ground is, at best, annoying. > > So, what's the wisdom of the group? Jesse tells me to use fuel > lube and, presumably, then depend on the tapered pipe thread for > security. I thought I heard something about using some kind of > Loctite here. It's also easy enough to rivet a little tab on the skin > behind the drain valve and drill the valve hex for a safety wire. > Does anyone EVER have a problem with just tightening against > the tapered thread? Also, I'd like to hear what the pros like > John Cox think. > > Regards, > Nick Gautier > #40363 > end of the wings > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Subject: Re: Radio Static Help
Hi, I appreciate all the suggestions regarding my radio static problems. I finally got my hands on another SL-30 unit and slid it into the tray... problem solved. Turns out my brand new SL-30 radio was the culprit. I just got word from Garmin that there was a bad solder joint inside my radio. -Jim 40134 In a message dated 10/29/2007 3:37:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, JSMcGrew(at)aol.com writes: 4 years ago today I placed my order for RV-10 tail kit #40134 as a birthday present to myself. Now, 2500 building and 100 flying hours later, I can say it was a pretty nice gift and well worth it... unfortunately I haven't got all the bugs worked out yet: I've spent the last few weeks trying to track down a problem with radio static on my Garmin SL-30 Nav/Comm. The SL-30 is attached to a Garmin GMA-340 Audio panel. The static itself sounds random (i.e. not obviously uniform like I would expect from an ignition system), however, it is somehow associated with engine throttle setting. The static starts around 2000 RPM and gets progressively worse as throttle increases. On takeoff, it is so bad you can not comprehend any received transmissions. During cruise it appears to be somehow associated with manifold pressure (i.e. throttle setting, not RPM). It makes listening to ATC difficult to impossible. I also think it may be affecting my radio transmissions as well, because when I have a hard time comprehending ATC, they also have a hard time understanding me. This static appears to be only affecting the Comm audio, there is no static on NAV audio reception. I have a belly mounted bent whip VHF antenna and a wingtip VOR antenna. My handheld ICOM VHF radio does not have any static when used inside the cockpit. I have searched various lists for ideas and tried to solve this problem, but I have had no success in changing it at all (for better or worse). Any suggestions for what to try or where to look will be welcome. Below is a list of some things I have tried with no luck. General -Shut off all avionics (except SL-30) and both ignition systems (not both at the same time) --So it doesn't appear to be interference from other electronics Antenna/Coaxial cable -Added ferrite signal filters at various locations along comm coax. -Connected SL-30 to a different comm antenna using a piece of RG-400 (tried various routings to antennas) -Connected SL-30 Comm to VOR antenna (great reception, still static) --So it doesn't appear to be antenna related Power/ground -Ensured engine grounding cables have good contacts on both ends -Apparently new Slick Magnetos have internal suppression and do not need a filter -Separated SL-30 power/ground leads from bundle to reduce potential interference from other wires -Ran SL-30 +12V and ground leads directly to battery -Disconnected serial connection between my SL-30 and EFIS indicator -Connected SL-30 to separate 12V battery sitting on floor of aircraft, disconnected power/ground to GMA-340. Attached ICOM handheld antenna directly to unit (SL-30 completely isolated from aircraft)-reception still has static -Ran ground wire from battery to SL-30 tray -Checked to ensure headseat jacks were isolated from aircraft ground. -Checked the shield connections for tachometer and fuel flow sensor wires I can't think of anything else to try. Again, I'd be happy to hear any suggestions. Thanks. -Jim N312JE Jim "Scooter" McGrew _http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew) Jim "Scooter" McGrew _http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew) **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: Re: Radio Static Help
Great news! Is your SL-30 RoHS compliant? I ask because the lead-free solder tends to be much more brittle than the regular lead-based solder (and tin whiskers are a problem). where I work, in the medical field, we have an exemption (as does the military) - but with everyone EOLing (End Of Life) their components we're being taken along for the ride and have had these problems as well. Its really funny.... lead-free solder was a big problem in the early 1900's. The solder would grow 'tin whiskers <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tin_whiskers>' and short out connections. In the 1940's, it was discovered that you could avoid problems by adding some lead to the tin. Now, in the lead-free craze, brittle connections and tin whiskers are back! The most public result of this problem (documented in "Engineering Disasters 20" (I think its #20, possibly 18 or 19) was the loss of the G4 satellite in 1998 <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galaxy_IV> -Jim 40384 JSMcGrew(at)aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I appreciate all the suggestions regarding my radio static problems. I > finally got my hands on another SL-30 unit and slid it into the > tray... problem solved. Turns out my brand new SL-30 radio was the > culprit. I just got word from Garmin that there was a bad solder joint > inside my radio. > > -Jim > 40134 > > In a message dated 10/29/2007 3:37:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > JSMcGrew(at)aol.com writes: > > 4 years ago today I placed my order for RV-10 tail kit #40134 as a > birthday present to > myself. Now, 2500 building and 100 flying hours later, I can say > it was a pretty nice gift > and well worth it... unfortunately I haven't got all the bugs > worked out yet: > > I've spent the last few weeks trying to track down a problem with > radio static on my > Garmin SL-30 Nav/Comm. The SL-30 is attached to a Garmin GMA-340 > Audio panel. > The static itself sounds random (i.e. not obviously uniform like I > would expect from an ignition > system), however, it is somehow associated with engine throttle > setting. The > static starts around 2000 RPM and gets progressively worse as > throttle increases. > On takeoff, it is so bad you can not comprehend any received > transmissions. During cruise it appears > to be somehow associated with manifold pressure (i.e. throttle > setting, not RPM). It makes > listening to ATC difficult to impossible. I also think it may be > affecting my radio > transmissions as well, because when I have a hard time > comprehending ATC, they > also have a hard time understanding me. This static appears to be > only affecting > the Comm audio, there is no static on NAV audio reception. I have > a belly mounted > bent whip VHF antenna and a wingtip VOR antenna. My handheld ICOM > VHF radio > does not have any static when used inside the cockpit. > > I have searched various lists for ideas and tried to solve this > problem, but > I have had no success in changing it at all (for better or worse). > Any > suggestions for what to try or where to look will be welcome. > Below is a list > of some things I have tried with no luck. > > > General > -Shut off all avionics (except SL-30) and both ignition systems > (not both at the same time) > --So it doesn't appear to be interference from other electronics > > Antenna/Coaxial cable > -Added ferrite signal filters at various locations along comm coax. > -Connected SL-30 to a different comm antenna using a piece of > RG-400 (tried > various routings to antennas) > -Connected SL-30 Comm to VOR antenna (great reception, still static) > --So it doesn't appear to be antenna related > > Power/ground > -Ensured engine grounding cables have good contacts on both ends > -Apparently new Slick Magnetos have internal suppression and do > not need a filter > -Separated SL-30 power/ground leads from bundle to reduce > potential interference from other wires > -Ran SL-30 +12V and ground leads directly to battery > -Disconnected serial connection between my SL-30 and EFIS indicator > -Connected SL-30 to separate 12V battery sitting on floor of > aircraft, disconnected power/ground > to GMA-340. Attached ICOM handheld antenna directly to unit (SL-30 > completely isolated > from aircraft)-reception still has static > -Ran ground wire from battery to SL-30 tray > -Checked to ensure headseat jacks were isolated from aircraft ground. > -Checked the shield connections for tachometer and fuel flow > sensor wires > > > I can't think of anything else to try. Again, I'd be happy to hear > any suggestions. > > Thanks. > > -Jim > N312JE > > Jim "Scooter" McGrew > http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew > > > Jim "Scooter" McGrew > http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Check out AOL Money & Finance's list of the hottest products > <http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001> > and top money wasters > <http://money.aol.com/top5/general/ways-you-are-wasting-money?NCID=aoltop00030000000002> > of 2007. > >* > > >* > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Lassetter" <rblassett(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Grand Rapids Technologies
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Hello All, I just had a positive experience with Grand Rapids Technologies that I thought was worth mentioning. I am helping a fellow with his electrical system in a project aircraft he bought that came with an older model engine monitoring system from Grand Rapids Technologies. An email to the company (after checking their website) got a quick response from Sandy and she is sending an installation/operators manual tomorrow. Excellent customer service in my opinion even though I am kind of a "second hand" customer. Russ Lassetter ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2007
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Rivethead - Aero
HI I send Dave at Rivethead an email and he responded within 2 hours. My door pin order has been placed. He is not sure why his website is down but he will look into it. Cheers Les #40643 C-GCWZ reserved -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman Sent: October-05-07 8:49 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rivethead - Aero Grumpy, I had the same problem last year. He'll eventually get to you and they are beautiful. I keep the old ones right next to my plans to remind me that there are alternatives. John -------- #40572 Empennage done, starting QB Wings N711JG reserved Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=138427#138427 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 26, 2007
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: paint prices
You east coast guys might want to check out "aircraftpainting.com" they painted my RV10. tintopranch wrote: > > I got my RV10 painted at Texas Aerocolor (www.texasaerocolor.com) in Brady, TX. They did a great job, he has painted 3 RV10s. I paided $8,500 plus $600 for some fiberglass work around the windows. > > -------- > MARK SUTHERLAND > RV-10 40292 > Flying since June 07 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148603#148603 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2007
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Total Flight Time - Submit yours
************************************ **** RV-10 total flying hours 55.0 **** (as of approx. 11/22-23/07 **** ************************************ Sam & Dan N540MR ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com>
Subject: Stick grips
Date: Nov 26, 2007
Anyone using CH Products grips? How do you like them? Dave Leikam 40496 closing wings ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net>
Subject: Re: Grand Rapids Technologies
Date: Nov 27, 2007
I echo Russ. I usually give them a call first. Mark, Jeff, and Luke know their products well. My emails to them are usually answered within 24 hrs. Anh N591VU ----- Original Message ----- From: "Russell Lassetter" <rblassett(at)alltel.net> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 9:29 PM Subject: RV10-List: Grand Rapids Technologies > > > > > Hello All, > > I just had a positive experience with Grand Rapids Technologies that I > thought was worth mentioning. I am helping a fellow with his electrical > system in a project aircraft he bought that came with an older model > engine > monitoring system from Grand Rapids Technologies. An email to the company > (after checking their website) got a quick response from Sandy and she is > sending an installation/operators manual tomorrow. > > Excellent customer service in my opinion even though I am kind of a > "second > hand" customer. > > Russ Lassetter > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2007
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] What are "The Lists" and Who's This Matt Dralle?
Dear Listers, Who is Matt Dralle and what exactly are these Lists? Well, I've been working in the information technology industry for nearly 25 years primarily in computer networking design and implementation. I have also done extensive work in web development and CGI design during that time, along with some embedded system development as well. I started the Matronics Email Lists back in 1990 with about 30 fellow RV builders from around the world. Since that time, I have added 63 other kinds of aircraft related Lists to the line up and numerous other List related services such as the Forums, Wiki, Archives and Search Engine just to name a few. For flexibility and reliability, I have chosen to run all of my own servers here locally. Other List-related systems include a 1 Gigabit, fully switched network infrastructure, a commercial-grade Netscreen firewall, a Barracuda spam filter, a local T1 Internet router, and a commercial-grade business T1 Internet connection with full static addressing. The computer servers found here include a quad-processor Xeon Linux server for List web services, a dual-processor Xeon Linux system dedicated to the email processing List functions, and another P4 Linux system serving as a remote storage disk farm for the archives, databases, and for an on-line hard drive-based backup system with 3.2 Terra Bytes of storage! This entire system is protected by three large, commercial-grade uninterrupted power supply (UPS) systems that assure the Lists are available even during a local power outage! Speaking of power, imagine how much electricity it takes to run all of these systems. One month last Summer, I had a staggering $1368 bill for electricity alone! I recently upgraded all of the computer racking infrastructure including new power feeds and dedicated air conditioning for the room that serves as the Computer Center for the Matronics Email Lists. Last year I added another rack to house the MONSTER quad-processor web system that didn't quite fit into the first rack! Here's a composite photo of the List Computer Center before the addition of the second rack: http://www.matronics.com/MattDralle-ListComputerCenter.jpg As you can see, I take running these Lists very seriously and I am dedicated to providing an always-on, 24x7x365 experience for each and every Lister. But building and running this system isn't cheap. As I've stated before, I don't support any of these systems with commercial advertising on the Lists. It is supported 100% through List member Contributions! That means you... and you... and YOU! To that end, I hold a List Fund Raiser each November and ask that members make a small Contribution to support the continued operation and upgrade of this ever-expanding system. Its solely YOUR Contributions that keeps it running! Won't you please take a moment to make a Contribution to support these Lists! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matronics / Matt Dralle PO Box 347 Livermore CA 94551-0347 USA (Please include your email address on the check!) There are some great gifts available with qualifying Contribution levels too! Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Russell Daves" <dav1111(at)suddenlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stick grips
Date: Nov 27, 2007
I have the CH grips installed and I like the feel of the grips. I use the hat button for the elevator trim, the trigger switch for the push to talk, and one of the buttons next to the hat switch for that autopilot disconnect. I initially used the small button under the trigger switch for a Com flip flop switch but had to disconnect it because it was to easy to indivertibly hit without realizing it. I also had a problem with the internal plastic breaking but CH replaced the grips at no charge. I am starting an RV-7 project and when I get ready for stick grips I will probably go with another brand. Russ Daves N710RV ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Stick grips
Date: Nov 27, 2007
I have them but am not yet flying. They seem to be top of the line. Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 11:56 PM Subject: RV10-List: Stick grips Anyone using CH Products grips? How do you like them? Dave Leikam 40496 closing wings ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How to avoid vapor lock: building tips
From: "Bill Reining" <wreining(at)gmail.com>
Date: Nov 27, 2007
My son and RV-10 building partner, Jon, was researching a possible autogas STC for his Citabria 7KCAB at the Petersen website (http://www.autofuelstc.com). Petersen does lots of autogas STCs for various aircraft and engines. Anyway, buried in the site was this guidance, which I thought might be of interest to the RV-10 community: "Homebuilders can improve the fuel system of an airplane under construction in a number of ways to reduce the likelihood of vapor lock. NASA vents incorporated into the vent system help provide positive pressure. Fuel pumps should be installed in the fuel tanks, or as close to the fuel tank as possible, and should be of the maximum pressure and flow rating allowable for the carb. Any 90 fittings should be replaced with 45 fittings, or tubing with very smooth gradual bends. Fittings should be made as tight as possible to prevent air from entering the line. Lines should be secured to prevent vibration & harmonics. Fuel lines in the engine compartment should be insulated to prevent heat from soaking through to the fuel. Fuel lines should not be located in close proximity to hot spots in the engine compartment. Composite materials used for the construction of some homebuilts may react negatively when they come in contact with fuel. The early Vari-eze homebuilts had a tendance for the spar to come apart after fuel tank leaks dribbled fuel onto the spar. Homebuilders should contact the kit manufacturer to see if material used throughout the airplane is compatible with the type of fuel you will be using and to receive other recommendations." -------- Bill (and Jon) Reining 40514 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148894#148894 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-10 Total Flight Time - Submit yours
From: "Jim & Julie Wade" <jwade2163(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Nov 27, 2007
Jim & Julie N369JW 156 Hrs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148921#148921 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 27, 2007
From: prises37340(at)mypacks.net
Subject: Re: paint prices
Hi Mark, do you have a link to some pictures so I can see how your's came out? Dave -----Original Message----- >From: tintopranch <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com> >Sent: Nov 26, 2007 8:26 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: Re: paint prices > > >I got my RV10 painted at Texas Aerocolor (www.texasaerocolor.com) in Brady, TX. They did a great job, he has painted 3 RV10s. I paided $8,500 plus $600 for some fiberglass work around the windows. > >-------- >MARK SUTHERLAND >RV-10 40292 >Flying since June 07 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148603#148603 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: paint prices
Date: Nov 27, 2007
Dave, Attached are a couple of pictures of my RV-10 (N410MR) that Alan painted at Texas Aerocolor. The first photo was taken in Baja at Punta Chivato. A b ig plus for me was that Alan did all the fiberglass finishing. Mark
> Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 18:15:46 -0600> From: prises37340(at)mypacks.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: paint prices> > --> R V10-List message posted by: prises37340(at)mypacks.net> > Hi Mark, do you have a link to some pictures so I can see how your's came out?> Dave> > -----Or iginal Message-----> >From: tintopranch <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com>> >Sent: Nov 26, 2007 8:26 AM> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> >Subject: RV10-List: R utherland(at)yahoo.com>> >> >I got my RV10 painted at Texas Aerocolor (www.tex asaerocolor.com) in Brady, TX. They did a great job, he has painted 3 RV10s . I paided $8,500 plus $600 for some fiberglass work around the windows.> > > >--------> >MARK SUTHERLAND> >RV-10 40292> >Flying since June 07> >> >> > > >> >Read this topic online here:> >> >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtop ========================> _ ====================> > > _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live.Download today it's FREE ! http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_1120 07 /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQEBOgE6AAD/4R41RXhpZgAASUkqAAgAAAAVAA4BAgAgAAAACgEAAA8BAgAY AAAAKgEAABABAgARAAAAQgEAABIBAwABAAAAAQCIiRoBBQABAAAAVAEAABsBBQABAAAAXAEAACgB AwABAAAAAgDEADEBAgAgAAAAZAEAADIBAgAUAAAAhAEAABMCAwABAAAAAgBJAGmHBAABAAAAsAMA AAGkAwABAAAAAABLAAKkAwABAAAAAAAAAAOkAwABAAAAAAABAASkBQABAAAAmAEAAAakAwABAAAA AAAFAAekAwABAAAAAAAHAAikAwABAAAAAAAIAAmkAwABAAAAAAAKAAqkAwABAAAAAAAMAKXEBwAQ AgAAoAEAAHQFAABPTFlNUFVTIERJR0lUQUwgQ0FNRVJBICAgICAgICAgAE9MWU1QVVMgSU1BR0lO 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Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 27, 2007
Anyone know his address and e-mail?? -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149016#149016 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Wow! A Ton of Comments!
Dear Listers, I've been getting a ton of great comments from Listers along with their List Support Contributions lately! I've shared a bunch more below. Please read over some of them and see what your fellow Listers think of the Lists and Forums. There are just a couple more days left before the official end of this year's Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued upgrade and operation of these services. There are still lots of awesome gifts available, so browse the extensive selection and pickup a nice item along with your qualifying Contribution. http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you in advance for your generous support! It is very much appreciated! Best regards, Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ----------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists ----------- In the big picture, you are most certainly saving lives. The fact that you do it at a very good level of service, quality, and simplicity is just icing on the cake. We all owe you a debt of gratitude. Bruce M Can't go a single day without reading my lists. Even when I am overseas. Terry W Best list ever. No comparison. Johann J I get the digest for the two lists I subscribe to each morning -- they go great with my coffee! I can't tell you how much I've learned from this great service... Mark S ..great lists, best on the Net! Robert S It is very nice to enjoy a SPAM free list. Ken L You run a great list. Makes a builder feel like there's lots of help out there for the asking, and it's appreciated. Steve T The list is a very valuable resource. Thomas S You run a good list. James G Thanks for a great forum. Jimmy Y Thanks for a well-maintained list(s). Michael M Great job! Worth every penny! Stephen T Helps me learn and think about issues I didn't know I didn't know. Martin H I find the list very useful... Robert F What you do provides me with daily contact with a passion of my life, aviation. Wendell M ..the list it is very valuable information. Dwayne H ..a great service to homebuilders. Andrew H I have learned quite a lot from reading the Forums. I have been reading at the forum pages and I like the way it works. Ron L [The List] makes a builder feel like there's lots of help out there for the asking, and it's appreciated. Steve T The list service many purposes, not the least of which is motivation to join my fellow RVer in completing my project and getting in the air. John S Thanks for running a great site. Its simplicity is its greatness. Don't know how I would have been successful without it. Timothy F ..terrific service to experimental and general aviation. James F You have a well run operation. I am happy to support what you do. Mark S A wonderful service to the GA community. David M Great list - let's keep it ad-free! Ben C They have been of great help, learning and friendship for all the members Worldwide. Great job of yours, a little idea that grew really big and wonderful. Gary G ..a thoroughly enjoyable and informative List. John W A GREAT LEARNING TOOL!! Dwayne Y This is a very well-run list and it is a valuable resource for the Pietenpol enthusiast. Graham H Thanks for running this great site - helps those of us on the east of the pond keep in touch. Malcolm H Thanks for the major contribution to my continuing education program. Oldbob S I'm just getting started in the building process & find Matronics to be the most valuable site. Scott D Without the information and encouragement from the listers my project would have been sitting in the corner of my shop collecting dust long ago. Now it's almost ready for final assemble and covering. Edward G Great List. No Ads, just RV-10 builders. Keep it going. Rick E Wonderful source of info for building & flying... Graham H The Yak-list is a superb single source to get answers to questions on the operation of these aircraft. Craig W This list is valuable to everyone and your hard work is very much appreciated. Jim S ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Balancing Control Surfaces
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com>
G'day all, I remember reading some posts recently about the need to balance control su rfaces and rebalance after paint. Can somebody point me to some reading ma terial on control surface balancing and how it is achieved on the -10? Doe s it involve adding/removing mass to/from the counterbalance weights on the elevators and rudder?? Is this problematic if the fairings have been inst alled?? thanks in advance Ron 187 finishing "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chris and Susie McGough" <VHMUM(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Balancing Control Surfaces
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Balancing Control SurfacesMatch: #23 Message: #12987 From: "Carl Froehlich" Subject: Elevator Balance Date: Sep 30, 2007 I sent a note to Van's awhile back on elevator balance. When building my RV-8A the instructions told you to trim the counterbalance weights until the elevators were balance, as in statically balances so that the elevators stay horizontal with no force acting on them. The weights in the RV-8A are much larger than the RV-10. Building the RV-10 it is obvious that to achieve this same balance requires much larger counterbalance weights than that supplied with the kit. Van's reply to my question about this was "the elevators will hang trailing edge down" and that there is not need to add the weight to make them statically balanced as in the RV-8A. Recommend just building as per plan. Carl Froehlich RV-8A (350 hrs) RV-10 (wings) Dogwood Airpark (VA42) _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 11:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: Elevator Balance I am confused about the balance of the elevator. The plans say a max of 37.5 in/lbs down. Without having the elevator connected to the controls and trim tabs not connected I measured the balance. It is about 15 in/lbs down. So my questions are: What is the minimum? When should it be measured? I am assuming after all rigging is complete. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Rene' 40322 N423CF Final assembley 801-721-6080 End Msg: #23 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- -- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Return to the Matronics Email List Homepages ----- Original Message ----- From: McGANN, Ron To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 10:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Balancing Control Surfaces G'day all, I remember reading some posts recently about the need to balance control surfaces and rebalance after paint. Can somebody point me to some reading material on control surface balancing and how it is achieved on the -10? Does it involve adding/removing mass to/from the counterbalance weights on the elevators and rudder?? Is this problematic if the fairings have been installed?? thanks in advance Ron 187 finishing "Warning: The information contained in this email and any attached files is confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to your computer." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: James Hein <n8vim(at)arrl.net>
Subject: N289DT preliminary report NYC08LA023
NTSB Identification: *NYC08LA023* 14 CFR Part 91: General Aviation Accident occurred Friday, November 02, 2007 in Greenville, PA Aircraft: Vans Aircraft RV-10, registration: N289DT Injuries: 1 Fatal. This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors. Any errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has been completed. On November 2, 2007, at 0830 eastern daylight time, an amateur built Vans RV-10, N289DT, was substantially damaged when it impacted terrain near Greenville, Pennsylvania. The certificated private pilot was fatally injured. Day visual meteorological conditions prevailed for the local flight that departed Greenville Municipal Airport (4G1), Greenville, Pennsylvania. No flight plan was filed for the personal flight conducted under 14 CFR Part 91. According to a family member, the pilot had driven to the airport to practice "touch and go's" and to make sure everything was functioning properly, prior to a planned afternoon trip in the airplane with his family to Boston, Massachusetts. Witness interviews were conducted by the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) and the Safety Board, and while no one saw the airplane depart 4G1, the airplane was observed by a witness at approximately 0800 traveling in a northwesterly direction at low altitude, moving "fast," and sounding like it was "running strong like a Ford Mustang (turbocharged) Cobra that the witness once owned." At approximately 0825, the airplane was again observed but, this time by multiple witnesses. Descriptions varied between witness statements as to the altitude, direction of flight, and velocity of the airplane; however, the preponderance of witness statements were that the airplane was flying north on the east side of Pennsylvania State Route 58, and seemed to make a circle to the left at approximately 500 feet above ground level (agl). It was next observed to travel in a westerly direction, fly across Route 58 and make another turn to the left with the engine "revving up and down," and losing altitude. When it reached approximately 50-feet agl and was heading east, the airplane rolled wings level and impacted a cornfield in a 35 to 60 degree nose down attitude. A fireball erupted, and the airplane slid approximately 100-feet. It then impacted the shoulder of Route 58, nosed over, and came to rest inverted on the roadway. The amateur built airplane, was a four place, low wing monoplane. It was equipped with a non-certificated Eggenfellner E6T/220, which was a water cooled, fuel injected, turbo-charged, six cylinder engine. The airplane's special airworthiness certificate was issued on July 10, 2007. The pilot held a private pilot certificate, with a rating for airplane single engine land. His most recent FAA third class medical certificate was issued on March 14, 2006. According to his pilot logbook, he had accrued 221.4 total hours of flight experience. A weather observation taken about 23 minutes after the accident at Port Meadville Airport (GKJ), Meadville, Pennsylvania, located about 14 nautical miles northeast of the accident site, recorded the winds as 090 degrees at 4 knots, visibility 10 miles, sky clear, temperature 1 degree Celsius, dew point -2 degrees Celsius, and an altimeter setting of 30.36 inches of mercury. The wreckage was retained by the Safety Board for further examination. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: paint prices
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com>
Can you give us an idea what he charged? Thanks Bob _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 7:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: paint prices Dave, Attached are a couple of pictures of my RV-10 (N410MR) that Alan painted at Texas Aerocolor. The first photo was taken in Baja at Punta Chivato. A big plus for me was that Alan did all the fiberglass finishing. Mark
_____ > Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 18:15:46 -0600 > From: prises37340(at)mypacks.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: paint prices > > > Hi Mark, do you have a link to some pictures so I can see how your's came out? > Dave > > -----Original Message----- > >From: tintopranch <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com> > >Sent: Nov 26, 2007 8:26 AM > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV10-List: Re: paint prices > > > > > >I got my RV10 painted at Texas Aerocolor (www.texasaerocolor.com) in Brady, TX. They did a great job, he has painted 3 RV10s. I paided $8,500 plus $600 for some fiberglass work around the windows. > > > >-------- > >MARK SUTHERLAND > >RV-10 40292 > >Flying since June 07 > > > > > > > > > >Read this topic online here: > > > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148603#148603 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > = > > > _____ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. Share now! <http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_1 1 2007> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Balancing Control Surfaces
Seems 'Vans' is talking out of both sides of their mouth, Ref: the Rvator article on 'flutter' What's the TRUE story? Has anybody that has their airplane painted witnessed the painter balance the elevator/rudder? Is there anyway to balance Aileron? Deems Chris and Susie McGough wrote: > * > *Match: * */#23/* > *Message: * */#12987/* > > *From: * */"Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>/* > > *Subject: * /*Elevator Balance > <http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=25127016?KEYS=balance?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=23?SERIAL=05535527250?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>*/ > > *Date: * */Sep 30, 2007/* > > I sent a note to Van's awhile back on elevator balance. When > building my RV-8A the instructions told you to trim the > counterbalance weights until the elevators were balance, as in > statically balances so that the elevators stay horizontal with no > force acting on them. The weights in the RV-8A are much larger > than the RV-10. Building the RV-10 it is obvious that to achieve > this same balance requires much larger counterbalance weights than > that supplied with the kit. Van's reply to my question about this > was "the elevators will hang trailing edge down" and that there is > not need to add the weight to make them statically balanced as in > the RV-8A. Recommend just building as per plan. Carl Froehlich > RV-8A (350 hrs) RV-10 (wings) Dogwood Airpark (VA42) _____ From: > owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene > Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 11:55 PM Subject: RV10-List: > Elevator Balance I am confused about the balance of the elevator. > The plans say a max of 37.5 in/lbs down. Without having the > elevator connected to the controls and trim tabs not connected I > measured the balance. It is about 15 in/lbs down. So my questions > are: What is the minimum? When should it be measured? I am > assuming after all rigging is complete. Any suggestions would be > appreciated. Rene' 40322 N423CF Final assembley 801-721-6080 > > *End Msg: * */#23 /* > > <http://www.matronics.com/searching/find_msg.cgi?TYPE=pmatch?SERIAL=05535527250?INDEX=25127016?KEYS=balance?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=23> > <http://www.matronics.com/searching/find_msg.cgi?TYPE=pmsg?SERIAL=05535527250?INDEX=25127016?KEYS=balance?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=23> > <http://www.matronics.com/searching/find_msg.cgi?TYPE=nmsg?SERIAL=05535527250?INDEX=25127016?KEYS=balance?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=23> > <http://www.matronics.com/searching/find_msg.cgi?TYPE=nmatch?SERIAL=05535527250?INDEX=25127016?KEYS=balance?LISTNAME=RV10?HITNUMBER=23> > > > * * > > * * > > * * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > * * > *-- Please support this service by making your > Contribution > <http://www.matronics.com/searching/contribution.html> > today! -- * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > * * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *Return to the /Matronics Email List Homepages/ > <http://www.matronics.com/other.html> > * > > * > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* McGANN, Ron > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 28, 2007 10:12 PM > *Subject:* RV10-List: Balancing Control Surfaces > > > G'day all, > > I remember reading some posts recently about the need to balance > control surfaces and rebalance after paint. Can somebody point me > to some reading material on control surface balancing and how it > is achieved on the -10? Does it involve adding/removing mass > to/from the counterbalance weights on the elevators and rudder?? > Is this problematic if the fairings have been installed?? > > thanks in advance > Ron > 187 finishing > > "Warning: > The information contained in this email and any attached files is > confidential to BAE Systems Australia. If you are not the intended > recipient, any use, disclosure or copying of this email or any > attachments is expressly prohibited. If you have received this email > in error, please notify us immediately. VIRUS: Every care has been > taken to ensure this email and its attachments are virus free, > however, any loss or damage incurred in using this email is not the > sender's responsibility. It is your responsibility to ensure virus > checks are completed before installing any data sent in this email to > your computer." > > > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > * > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mark Ritter <mritter509(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: paint prices
Date: Nov 28, 2007
Can't find the invoice but pretty sure it was in the $8,500 - $9,000 range.
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: paint pricesDate: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 06:47:14 -08 00From: bob.condrey(at)baesystems.comTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Can you give us an idea what he charged? Thanks Bob From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark RitterSent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 7:19 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Re: paint prices Dave,Attached are a couple of pictures of my RV-10 (N410MR) that Alan paint ed at Texas Aerocolor. The first photo was taken in Baja at Punta Chivato. A big plus for me was that Alan did all the fiberglass finishing. Mark
> Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 18:15:46 -0600> From: prises37340(at)mypacks.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: paint prices> > --> R V10-List message posted by: prises37340(at)mypacks.net> > Hi Mark, do you have a link to some pictures so I can see how your's came out?> Dave> > -----Or iginal Message-----> >From: tintopranch <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com>> >Sent: Nov 26, 2007 8:26 AM> >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> >Subject: RV10-List: R utherland(at)yahoo.com>> >> >I got my RV10 painted at Texas Aerocolor (www.tex asaerocolor.com) in Brady, TX. They did a great job, he has painted 3 RV10s . I paided $8,500 plus $600 for some fiberglass work around the windows.> > > >--------> >MARK SUTHERLAND> >RV-10 40292> >Flying since June 07> >> >> > > >> >Read this topic online here:> >> >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtop ic.php?p=148603#148603> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >==> > > Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. Share now! _________________________________________________________________ You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i=92m Init iative now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "eagerlee" <eagerlee(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 28, 2007
Did somebody say they were interested in hearing who was planning on using an alternate engine? Or does someone want to chart hours of operation with an alternate engine? Tim's call for hours of operation in RV-10's came through loud and clear but other requests might have been lost. I'm planning on using an Eggenfellner intercooled turbo. Paul Hahn #40203 - inventoried our finishing kit yesterday ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: paint prices
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com>
Mark, Your plane looks beautiful. I probably state the obvious here but one cannot tell the actually quality of a paint job by a photograph. A close up inspection for drips, runs, orange peel, thin & heavy spots etc... is required. Furthermore a quality paint job may not be apparent for years when one plane starts to yellow or peal while another looks showroom. A friend of mine had his 7A painted by a well respected hot rod painter. Looked amazing. After he sold the plane the new owner damaged the aircraft and needed to repaint a wing. The new painter told the new owner that the original paint came off with the tape used to mask the area. Not good! There was obviously an adhesion issue with the original paint job. It seems to me that sticking with a quality aircraft painter and known paints & processes may be the best solution for a long term quality paint job. I would sure hat to spend $9K and have to spend another $9K 4 years later. Or worse yet, fly around with a crappy looking -10. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark Ritter Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 5:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: paint prices Dave, Attached are a couple of pictures of my RV-10 (N410MR) that Alan painted at Texas Aerocolor. The first photo was taken in Baja at Punta Chivato. A big plus for me was that Alan did all the fiberglass finishing. Mark
________________________________ > Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 18:15:46 -0600 > From: prises37340(at)mypacks.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: paint prices > > > Hi Mark, do you have a link to some pictures so I can see how your's came out? > Dave > > -----Original Message----- > >From: tintopranch <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com> > >Sent: Nov 26, 2007 8:26 AM > >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > >Subject: RV10-List: Re: paint prices > > > > > >I got my RV10 painted at Texas Aerocolor (www.texasaerocolor.com) in Brady, TX. They did a great job, he has painted 3 RV10s. I paided $8,500 plus $600 for some fiberglass work around the windows. > > > >-------- > >MARK SUTHERLAND > >RV-10 40292 > >Flying since June 07 > > > > > > > > > >Read this topic online here: > > > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148603#148603 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > = > > > ________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. Share now! <http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_sharelife_1 1 2007> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: How to avoid vapor lock: building tips
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
The president of the Oregon Pilots Association now former president and former editor of Kitplanes magazine (Dave Martin)reported that the Oregon legislature just passed a mandate for 10% ethanol MOGAS which invalidates the Peterson STC. The EAA sent a formal letter of immediate concern for pilots from other states who refuel in Orygun. A post on another matronics site mentioned many such states moving towards E85. Before anyone plans on MOGAS, there needs to be someone listing the difficulties of such a decision. The Peterson/EAA STC was for older engines of lower compression and are not of the same variant as the D4A5. I thing Rhonda and Monty might chime in on what costs would be incurred to do a dyno of an RV-10, Lycoming D4A5 running 50% 100LL Avgas and 50% E85 Mogas like the Rotax do. Anyone game to volunteer their engine? This is no light topic so bring it on. John Cox 40600 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Reining Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 10:42 AM Subject: RV10-List: How to avoid vapor lock: building tips My son and RV-10 building partner, Jon, was researching a possible autogas STC for his Citabria 7KCAB at the Petersen website (http://www.autofuelstc.com). Petersen does lots of autogas STCs for various aircraft and engines. Anyway, buried in the site was this guidance, which I thought might be of interest to the RV-10 community: "Homebuilders can improve the fuel system of an airplane under construction in a number of ways to reduce the likelihood of vapor lock. NASA vents incorporated into the vent system help provide positive pressure. Fuel pumps should be installed in the fuel tanks, or as close to the fuel tank as possible, and should be of the maximum pressure and flow rating allowable for the carb. Any 90 fittings should be replaced with 45 fittings, or tubing with very smooth gradual bends. Fittings should be made as tight as possible to prevent air from entering the line. Lines should be secured to prevent vibration & harmonics. Fuel lines in the engine compartment should be insulated to prevent heat from soaking through to the fuel. Fuel lines should not be located in close proximity to hot spots in the engine compartment. Composite materials used for the construction of some homebuilts may react negatively when they come in contact with fuel. The early Vari-eze homebuilts had a tendance for the spar to come apart after fuel tank leaks dribbled fuel onto the spar. Homebuilders should contact the kit manufacturer to see if material used throughout the airplane is compatible with the type of fuel you will be using and to receive other recommendations." -------- Bill (and Jon) Reining 40514 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148894#148894 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
I will gladly track all forms of alternative powerplants flying. The incident/accident rate and performance should be of value to everyone. John Cox ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of eagerlee Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 9:34 AM Subject: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Did somebody say they were interested in hearing who was planning on using an alternate engine? Or does someone want to chart hours of operation with an alternate engine? Tim's call for hours of operation in RV-10's came through loud and clear but other requests might have been lost. I'm planning on using an Eggenfellner intercooled turbo. Paul Hahn #40203 - inventoried our finishing kit yesterday ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Fwd: Jeppesen Offers Chelton Services
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: gengrumpy(at)aol.com
Jepp has finally sent out their offer for Chelton subscription rates!!!! grumpy N184JM -----Original Message----- From: Captain(at)jeppesen.com Sent: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 12:30 pm Subject: Jeppesen Offers Chelton Services Dear Customers and Dealers, Jeppesen and Chelton Flight Systems are pleased to announce an agreement that will allow you direct access to the Navigation and Obstruction databases from Jeppesen. The new data services will be available on Cycle 0801, effective 17 January 2008. Please see the attachment below. Please complete the form and fax or email your order to Jeppesen for processing. Email: Captain(at)Jeppesen.com Fax: 303-328-4153 We appreciate your business and if you have any questions, please let us know. We would be happy to assist. Jeppesen Sales & Service ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Door - Gas Strut Installation
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 28, 2007
A fellow RV10'er has some problems installing the gas strut opener. There were two issues: 1. Due to the pressure, it twisted the door after it was installed making the careful door fit less perfect than it was prior to strut installation. 2. The Vans suggested dimensions (per the fabricated piece) seem to be too short and the gas strut once installed and fully compressed in the closed position was at it's full limits of closure (and maybe beyond those limits by a couple of 100ths of an inch I am not too worried about the door opening too high, but I am worried about hypercompressing the strut and eventually needing to replace it The Question: What do you think about extending the placement of the door brackets 1/8"to 1/4" lower on the door to counter the potential for the above problem -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149157#149157 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: How to avoid vapor lock: building tips
I believe that the systems attached to the engine (injection mostly) are compatible with alcohol containing fuels. What about out aluminum fuel tanks? -----Original Message----- >From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> >Sent: Nov 28, 2007 1:52 PM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV10-List: How to avoid vapor lock: building tips > > >The president of the Oregon Pilots Association now former president and former editor of Kitplanes magazine (Dave Martin)reported that the Oregon legislature just passed a mandate for 10% ethanol MOGAS which invalidates the Peterson STC. The EAA sent a formal letter of immediate concern for pilots from other states who refuel in Orygun. > >A post on another matronics site mentioned many such states moving towards E85. Before anyone plans on MOGAS, there needs to be someone listing the difficulties of such a decision. The Peterson/EAA STC was for older engines of lower compression and are not of the same variant as the D4A5. > >I thing Rhonda and Monty might chime in on what costs would be incurred to do a dyno of an RV-10, Lycoming D4A5 running 50% 100LL Avgas and 50% E85 Mogas like the Rotax do. Anyone game to volunteer their engine? This is no light topic so bring it on. > >John Cox >40600 > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Reining >Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 10:42 AM >To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com >Subject: RV10-List: How to avoid vapor lock: building tips > > >My son and RV-10 building partner, Jon, was researching a possible autogas STC for his Citabria 7KCAB at the Petersen website (http://www.autofuelstc.com). Petersen does lots of autogas STCs for various aircraft and engines. Anyway, buried in the site was this guidance, which I thought might be of interest to the RV-10 community: > >"Homebuilders can improve the fuel system of an airplane under construction in a number of ways to reduce the likelihood of vapor lock. NASA vents incorporated into the vent system help provide positive pressure. Fuel pumps should be installed in the fuel tanks, or as close to the fuel tank as possible, and should be of the maximum pressure and flow rating allowable for the carb. Any 90 fittings should be replaced with 45 fittings, or tubing with very smooth gradual bends. Fittings should be made as tight as possible to prevent air from entering the line. Lines should be secured to prevent vibration & harmonics. Fuel lines in the engine compartment should be insulated to prevent heat from soaking through to the fuel. Fuel lines should not be located in close proximity to hot spots in the engine compartment. > >Composite materials used for the construction of some homebuilts may react negatively when they come in contact with fuel. The early Vari-eze homebuilts had a tendance for the spar to come apart after fuel tank leaks dribbled fuel onto the spar. Homebuilders should contact the kit manufacturer to see if material used throughout the airplane is compatible with the type of fuel you will be using and to receive other recommendations." > >-------- >Bill (and Jon) Reining >40514 > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=148894#148894 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Emond" <d_emond(at)mweb.co.za>
Subject: Re: RV-10 Total Flight Time - Submit yoursRV-10 Total Flight
Time - Submit yours
Date: Nov 28, 2007
ZU - RVD total 99hrs ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Date: Nov 28, 2007
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Ly coming O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifyEhY3GeIwBB0msdh0etp 03KVkYbajnXDIRxRRsRIqxEGhG/ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 28, 2007
In my 30 years involved in the homebuilding experience most folks choose and alternate engine based on claims made by the engine seller. Many times there is no scientific way to verify those claims, or the engine seller convinces the buyer to be his test bed for a reduced cost of the engine. I have yet to see an installation where the claims were met or exceeded. Whether that be for cost, fuel economy, ease of overhaul, or an endless list of other claims that would make an alternate engine superior to a Lycosaurus. I too would love to see an economical choice besides the old Lycosaurus, but an auto engine, even if converted, is a very different beast than an aircraft engine. There is IMHO not enough volume to pay for the extensive research required to bring an alternative engine to market with scientific testing required to verify its suitability for flight. Even Mooney with all it's $$$ did not have a successful Porsche conversion. Yes it met some goals but not all and to meet the rest of the goals would cost even more $$, pushing it out of the market. So that leaves us the homebuilder to be the test bed for the engine manufacturer. As long as the homebuilder fully understands all that that entails, great. My beef is that in all the cases over the years that I have witnessed an alternative engine install, the builder learned what he didn't know about the process of testing a conversion, way to far into the process for him to change his mind. He would have had to take a huge financial hit. Some folks took the hit, some went on and ended up spending way more than they would have on a Lyc installation. An old time EAA member told me that if you are thinking of buying anything for your aircraft, including an engine, go to Oshkosh and see if there are at least 10 of that item there and at least 8 of the folks are happy with it, if so go buy it. If you buy before that time just to get the newest and latest, you are the test subject. Fully understand that concept of you doing the testing for the manufacturer. It will delay your first flight, it will cost an unknown quantity of $ because the manufacturer does not yet know what breaks and how soon. Just because it runs does not make it durable. Know what you are getting yourself into when you agree to be a pioneer. Thank goodness for pioneers. We need pioneers. I am sure the first folks to cross this great land had no idea how much the trip would cost. Just fully understand what you are signing up for. It is one of those dark little secrets that so many of our fellow builders have been burned trying to push the envelope. I think it is great if you want to be the pioneer, just make the choice to be one, a fully informed choice. Gary Tech Councilor, Flight Advisor, presently building my 4th aircraft. Yes, I am an old fart. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 3:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycoming O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iifyEhY3GeIwBB0msdh0etp03K VkYbajnXDIRxRRsRIqxEGhG/> up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Nov 28, 2007
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
I did some serious looking at the Egg engine back in the end of 2005 whe n he first offered it for the -10. The short version of much research is i t offered long term fuel compatibility and lower fuel expenses at the cost of performance and integration issues along with increased complexity. Als o there is potential savings for upfront costs however the Lycoming will ho ld its value considerably more. You can also expect Jan to be at least a y ear late with his delivery from whatever he initially promises. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 2:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycom ing O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now!<http://thirdpa rtyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iifyEhY3GeIwBB0msdh0etp03KVkYbajnXDIRxRR sRIqxEGhG/> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 28, 2007
Amen. All alternative engine installations require the same amount of engineering analysis and design as certified ones. The builder needs to have the engineering expertise (in which case he pays with his time) or purchase the expertise ( cash) or wing it (risk). If a builder cannot afford a Lycosauus then he can't afford to do an alternate engine properly. I recall when I was purchasing the tail kit that Mistral was offering me a $5000 discount on the engine to bring an flying 10 to OSH the next year. We just laughed, knowing the real costs. During my building partner's visit to Switzerland he visited the factory; the engineers there indicated that they could not fly for more than 30 minutes due to heat problems; yet the peddlers at OSH were trying to sell me an engine for me to 'engineer" into the 10. Incidentally they are still trying to certify this engine in a long term project with Embry Riddle. With alternative engines as it is with all of aviation, "If you can not afford to do it right , you can not afford to do it". _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 2:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? In my 30 years involved in the homebuilding experience most folks choose and alternate engine based on claims made by the engine seller. Many times there is no scientific way to verify those claims, or the engine seller convinces the buyer to be his test bed for a reduced cost of the engine. I have yet to see an installation where the claims were met or exceeded. Whether that be for cost, fuel economy, ease of overhaul, or an endless list of other claims that would make an alternate engine superior to a Lycosaurus. I too would love to see an economical choice besides the old Lycosaurus, but an auto engine, even if converted, is a very different beast than an aircraft engine. There is IMHO not enough volume to pay for the extensive research required to bring an alternative engine to market with scientific testing required to verify its suitability for flight. Even Mooney with all it's $$$ did not have a successful Porsche conversion. Yes it met some goals but not all and to meet the rest of the goals would cost even more $$, pushing it out of the market. So that leaves us the homebuilder to be the test bed for the engine manufacturer. As long as the homebuilder fully understands all that that entails, great. My beef is that in all the cases over the years that I have witnessed an alternative engine install, the builder learned what he didn't know about the process of testing a conversion, way to far into the process for him to change his mind. He would have had to take a huge financial hit. Some folks took the hit, some went on and ended up spending way more than they would have on a Lyc installation. An old time EAA member told me that if you are thinking of buying anything for your aircraft, including an engine, go to Oshkosh and see if there are at least 10 of that item there and at least 8 of the folks are happy with it, if so go buy it. If you buy before that time just to get the newest and latest, you are the test subject. Fully understand that concept of you doing the testing for the manufacturer. It will delay your first flight, it will cost an unknown quantity of $ because the manufacturer does not yet know what breaks and how soon. Just because it runs does not make it durable. Know what you are getting yourself into when you agree to be a pioneer. Thank goodness for pioneers. We need pioneers. I am sure the first folks to cross this great land had no idea how much the trip would cost. Just fully understand what you are signing up for. It is one of those dark little secrets that so many of our fellow builders have been burned trying to push the envelope. I think it is great if you want to be the pioneer, just make the choice to be one, a fully informed choice. Gary Tech Councilor, Flight Advisor, presently building my 4th aircraft. Yes, I am an old fart. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 3:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycoming O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iifyEhY3GeIwBB0msdh0etp03K VkYbajnXDIRxRRsRIqxEGhG/> up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2007
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
ddddsp1(at)juno.com wrote: > > Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a > Lycoming O-540 for the RV10? > > Dean > Hi Dean, A lot of what may be considered advantages are subjective to the opinion of the builder, and some can be duplicated on the Lyc. In my opinion only, here are some items that I perceive to be advantages (others may believe some of these are disadvantages or may not agree with me at all) for installing an Eggenfeller Subaru in my Sportsman: - Electronic ignition, computer controlled timing and "knock" sensing - Fuel injection - Water cooled (no shock cooling) - Significantly reduced vibration (smoother feeling engine) - Single lever engine control (versus separate mixture and throttle) * Note there is still a separate control for prop pitch for both engines * No primer required for the Subaru * No carb heat required for the Subaru - Reduced chance of fuel vapor lock due to the full flow return fuel system - Little to no oil consumption (also, no "dirty belly" after flight) - Quieter - Ability to burn autofuel (and potentially autofuel containing ethanol if the airframe fuel system is designed and implemented properly) - Reduced chance of CO in cockpit (heater works from the water cooling, not associated with the exhaust system, which also makes it safer and more effective in my opinion) - In theory, significantly cheaper overhaul (as far as I know none have had to be overhauled yet that I have read about anyways, and I am unsure of the cost or frequency of overhauling the prop gear reduction unit) - From talking to my insurance company, no difference in the cost of the policy whether I install a Lyc or Eggenfellner Subaru (however, there is an increased cost if I "roll my own" engine package) - From the few Glastars with Egg Subaru engines I have seen sold over the past few years, there does not seem to be any difference in resale cost as compared to those with a Lyc installed (However, I do not know if there would be less people interested in buying it, which might imply that it may take longer to sell. I haven't seen very many for sale, so few data points to go by. This also doesn't say anything about the RV10 market). * Disclaimer - I have been monitoring the Eggenfellner mailing list for about 5 years, and about a month ago placed my order for an H-6 package for my Sportsman. In the past there have been some cooling issues and delayed deliveries, but recently these concerns have been addressed to my comfort level. The cooling seems to be fixed with the proper cowl and vent design, and the deliveries seem to be closer to being on-time. I'll let you know in about 6 months when mine is scheduled to arrive... :-) There are disadvantages as well, but there has been so much chatter about it on this list already that I will just refer you to the archives... :-) Bottom line, for me it is just a personal preference. There are valid opinions on both sides of this topic. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "bob.kaufmann" <bob.kaufmann(at)cox.net>
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 28, 2007
I have to agree that it is both expensive and time consuming to do an alternative engine. There is a lot in the engineering and so far I have a huge group of mistakes, but it is fun. If I was going to sell my airplane some day I'd put a Lyco in it but since I'm building it for me I'll eat the time and energy to do an alternative. I am going with a 20B and have the mount, headers, muffler system, and intake designed. I am missing only the shoebox part of the intake manifold but will fiberglass that up this weekend. I have build new pulleys for the alternator, water pump and engine, and a new alternator bracket, moving it to the right side of the aircraft. I am also wiring and the bundles are getting more organized with the wiring. Bob k Looking to be about 91 % done. :>)) From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of David McNeill Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 2:40 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Amen. All alternative engine installations require the same amount of engineering analysis and design as certified ones. The builder needs to have the engineering expertise (in which case he pays with his time) or purchase the expertise ( cash) or wing it (risk). If a builder cannot afford a Lycosauus then he can't afford to do an alternate engine properly. I recall when I was purchasing the tail kit that Mistral was offering me a $5000 discount on the engine to bring an flying 10 to OSH the next year. We just laughed, knowing the real costs. During my building partner's visit to Switzerland he visited the factory; the engineers there indicated that they could not fly for more than 30 minutes due to heat problems; yet the peddlers at OSH were trying to sell me an engine for me to 'engineer" into the 10. Incidentally they are still trying to certify this engine in a long term project with Embry Riddle. With alternative engines as it is with all of aviation, "If you can not afford to do it right , you can not afford to do it". _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gary Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 2:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? In my 30 years involved in the homebuilding experience most folks choose and alternate engine based on claims made by the engine seller. Many times there is no scientific way to verify those claims, or the engine seller convinces the buyer to be his test bed for a reduced cost of the engine. I have yet to see an installation where the claims were met or exceeded. Whether that be for cost, fuel economy, ease of overhaul, or an endless list of other claims that would make an alternate engine superior to a Lycosaurus. I too would love to see an economical choice besides the old Lycosaurus, but an auto engine, even if converted, is a very different beast than an aircraft engine. There is IMHO not enough volume to pay for the extensive research required to bring an alternative engine to market with scientific testing required to verify its suitability for flight. Even Mooney with all it's $$$ did not have a successful Porsche conversion. Yes it met some goals but not all and to meet the rest of the goals would cost even more $$, pushing it out of the market. So that leaves us the homebuilder to be the test bed for the engine manufacturer. As long as the homebuilder fully understands all that that entails, great. My beef is that in all the cases over the years that I have witnessed an alternative engine install, the builder learned what he didn't know about the process of testing a conversion, way to far into the process for him to change his mind. He would have had to take a huge financial hit. Some folks took the hit, some went on and ended up spending way more than they would have on a Lyc installation. An old time EAA member told me that if you are thinking of buying anything for your aircraft, including an engine, go to Oshkosh and see if there are at least 10 of that item there and at least 8 of the folks are happy with it, if so go buy it. If you buy before that time just to get the newest and latest, you are the test subject. Fully understand that concept of you doing the testing for the manufacturer. It will delay your first flight, it will cost an unknown quantity of $ because the manufacturer does not yet know what breaks and how soon. Just because it runs does not make it durable. Know what you are getting yourself into when you agree to be a pioneer. Thank goodness for pioneers. We need pioneers. I am sure the first folks to cross this great land had no idea how much the trip would cost. Just fully understand what you are signing up for. It is one of those dark little secrets that so many of our fellow builders have been burned trying to push the envelope. I think it is great if you want to be the pioneer, just make the choice to be one, a fully informed choice. Gary Tech Councilor, Flight Advisor, presently building my 4th aircraft. Yes, I am an old fart. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 3:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycoming O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iifyEhY3GeIwBB0msdh0etp03K VkYbajnXDIRxRRsRIqxEGhG/> up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Hi Dean In my opinion, there is no compelling set of *facts* that will convince all engine buyers to go one way or another. To me the issue is one of risk management and a) what risks am I willing to take on and b) how can I mitigate these risks. Aviation is a risky pastime, so we need to do what we can to mitigate the risks. I have about 1,100 hours on a PA28/180C that has an O-360 engine that was overhauled in 1979. Since I have owned the a/c, I have replaced all the jugs (one twice). The last jug I replaced had 400 hours on it when it developed an exhaust port crack. I have had scored cylinders and broken rings. I fly the engine not too hard and usually with a fairly consistent hand on the throttle. In the past, I have spent a lot of time over very inhospitable country (bush) in northern Alberta. My visceral fear is that I will have a catastrophic failure. Over the years I have known two pilots who have had major failures on an O-360. Today I was speaking with a friend (who has many more hours than I) about this. He mentioned that he has had 3 engine failures over the years. The reason I mention these is just to put my views in context. I do not consider Lyc or Cont engines to be God's gift to aviation - they just happen to be the big players. My view is that the apparent reliability of these engines is because of the repetitive inspections that cause failing parts to be replaced before a failure occurs. For example, the A&P at the local flying club says they have a history or replacing jugs on IO540s. So in my view, traditional aircraft engines are risky with the risk being mitigated (notice I did not say eliminated) through a repetitive inspection process. Private owners do annuals and don't fly that much. Commercial ops have more frequent inspections because they fly more. The result is likely the same or similar. So why did I decide on an *alternative* engine? I admit some of the decision is based on faith and a willingness to accept a different type of risk. The key reasons for me are: * a desire to have what I believe is a better engineered engine. A Subaru engine that represents year 2000 engineering principles is a better engine that a state of the art 1940s engine. Better tolerances etc. This link to Ross Farnham's website is fairly eloquent on this matter. http://www.sdsefi.com/air7.html . My opinion is that the engine will not be a risky as a Lyc or Cont engine. * Since Oshkosh 1999 when I saw the Continental diesel mock-up that was to be a replacement for engines similar to my O-360, I have wanted to have an a/c engine that represent the latest technology in terms of electronics, ignition, etc. Again, the Subaru fits this requirement. Even mainstream a/c are now going this route. The Diamond Twinstar has electronic igntition. * There are products in the market that help mitigate the unique risks of a modern engine. Specifically, I plan to use the Vertical Power VP200 system to manage my electrical system. The electrical design for VP200 has been vetted by Jan. Now I have a way to mitigate the electrical risks, a way designed by people far smarter than I * The Subaru will provide very similar performance to the IO540. Perhaps the non turbo version was not as fast as the IO540, but then again that may be because it was flying on a fairly dirty airframe. With a turbo, it will certainly perform better at altitude. * I live in a cold environment (it is -25c today). I like the idea of a water cooled engine and easier starts, no pre-heating and water based heating system. * I like the idea of a well balanced engine that is not vibrating the hell out of avionics and passengers. * I especially like the idea of no more shock cooling, no more burning oil like a tramp steamer and a quieter engine. In my opinion, the engine portion of the firewall forward package is much safer than a traditional a/c engine. Where are the big risks? In my opinion the biggest risk is the PSRU that gears down the crank RPM to a something appropriate for the prop. I know many people have mentioned that they have had problems with earlier versions. I couple of people have kindly shared their experiences on a private basis - which I truly appreciate. So based on what I have learned to date, this seems to be the big risk I need to manage. Worst case, I need to monitor the health of the PSRU and if problems occur, swap it out. For the difference in cost of the engine, I could afford to have a spare PSRU or 3 sitting on shelf in case it was needed. The next biggest risk is electrical failure. As I mentioned above, I plan to use a solid state system to control / monitor my a/c electrical system and I plan to have a redundant battery system. Either way, things can hit the fan and then it will be time to do a dead stick landing. The only way to mange this risk is to know your a/c and stay current. Having a high speed Rosary might help as well. Anyway, I am not trying to convince anyone that my choice is the right one for anyone but me. As John Cox and the oracle it the Indiana Jones ride at Disney says: "Choose Wisely". Unfortunately, no one knows what the wise choice is until after the fact. I reserve the right to be 100% wrong in my choice and intolerably smug if I am right. Cheers Les Kearney #40643 - Still singing the section 29 blues C-GCWZ Reserved _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: November-28-07 1:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycoming O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iifyEhY3GeIwBB0msdh0etp03K VkYbajnXDIRxRRsRIqxEGhG/> up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com>
Subject: vans service bulletin AN426AD4-5
Date: Nov 28, 2007
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/service_letter_soft_rivets.pdf Possible rivet mix up from Sep 1 to Nov 30 (tomorrow?) 2007. -Ben Westfall #40579 (inspecting rivets - :-)) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Door - Gas Strut Installation
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 28, 2007
Since I did not hear from anyone (and I am type A personality) I gave it a shot and installed the gas strut. I dropped the door brackets down exactly 1/4" from the plans and whalla it worked perfectly. The bracket protrudes a bit over the door but the operation is flawless. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149243#149243 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 28, 2007
There are a few things I would like to add to this and I might say that I h ave been thinking about this issue a lot. I have heard all the stories about the certified engines and the need for i nspections and and the need for replacing parts. I don't spend much time at community airports because I am really a glider pilot who flies off a priv ate field. The few times I am at those larger airports( to get my transpond er certified) I have seen aircraft owners at the repair shops coming by to check on there aircraft as it is getting checked or repaired. Some of these owners have some bucks and they look like they are sweating it. I spoke to one Malibu owner and he looked and spoke about the idea that he was going to have to start thinking about the ownership thing really long and hard. I thought to myself about this and had come to a conclusion that I really wi ll not be enjoying this if that guy becomes me. Here in Southern California I think the hourly rate is about $110-$120 and hour. I notice, the repair guys sure talk a lot to each other. No way to set up a flexible spending ac count for the airplane, I'm self employed. This is not to say one engine is going to be more trouble free than the oth er, each system as a hole has its week links, recognizing them and evaluati ng them is the difficult part. One more thing to perhaps consider. My power flying will be taking me routi nely over high terrain, 5-6K with many areas more like 8-9K and occationall y higher still. Being the cross country glider pilot that I am, I will be f lying my RV10 the same way I fly my sailplane, monitoring my glide ability to my next landable spot(I already have so many of them in my database.)Wit h that said, the higher the safer. What a shock it will be going from a gli de of 7 NM per thousand feet to say(7NM devided by 5) and don't forget sett ing up for landing, EEEHHG! One more thing to consider. THERMAL activity and what we call the boundary layer. If you don't want to fly high or can't during the summer months, at least here on the west coast, you will be restricted to flying early mornin gs or late afternoon or evenings, otherwise expect a rough ride on those re ally good soaring days and trust me, they happen more often than you think. I think the passengers would like the higher ride even it they have to wea r a nasal canula. Thinking very hard and looking for the quite in all the noise. Basically, n o answer yet decided. JOhn G. 409 Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 21:14:56 -0700From: kearney(at)shaw.caSubject: RE: RV10 -List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?To: rv10-list@matro nics.com Hi Dean In my opinion, there is no compelling set of *facts* that will convince all engine buyers to go one way or another. To me the issue is one of risk man agement and a) what risks am I willing to take on and b) how can I mitigate these risks. Aviation is a risky pastime, so we need to do what we can to mitigate the risks. I have about 1,100 hours on a PA28/180C that has an O-360 engine that was o verhauled in 1979. Since I have owned the a/c, I have replaced all the jugs (one twice). The last jug I replaced had 400 hours on it when it develope d an exhaust port crack. I have had scored cylinders and broken rings. I fl y the engine not too hard and usually with a fairly consistent hand on the throttle. In the past, I have spent a lot of time over very inhospitable co untry (bush) in northern Alberta. My visceral fear is that I will have a ca tastrophic failure. Over the years I have known two pilots who have had major failures on an O- 360. Today I was speaking with a friend (who has many more hours than I) ab out this. He mentioned that he has had 3 engine failures over the years. Th e reason I mention these is just to put my views in context. I do not consi der Lyc or Cont engines to be God=92s gift to aviation ' they just happen to be the big players. My view is that the apparent reliability of these e ngines is because of the repetitive inspections that cause failing parts to be replaced before a failure occurs. For example, the A&P at the local fly ing club says they have a history or replacing jugs on IO540s. So in my view, traditional aircraft engines are risky with the risk being m itigated (notice I did not say eliminated) through a repetitive inspection process. Private owners do annuals and don=92t fly that much. Commercial op s have more frequent inspections because they fly more. The result is likel y the same or similar. So why did I decide on an *alternative* engine? I admit some of the decisio n is based on faith and a willingness to accept a different type of risk. T he key reasons for me are: a desire to have what I believe is a better engineered engine. A Subaru eng ine that represents year 2000 engineering principles is a better engine tha t a state of the art 1940s engine. Better tolerances etc. This link to Ross Farnham=92s website is fairly eloquent on this matter. http://www.sdsefi.c om/air7.html . My opinion is that the engine will not be a risky as a Lyc o r Cont engine. Since Oshkosh 1999 when I saw the Continental diesel mock-up that was to be a replacement for engines similar to my O-360, I have wanted to have an a/ c engine that represent the latest technology in terms of electronics, igni tion, etc. Again, the Subaru fits this requirement. Even mainstream a/c are now going this route. The Diamond Twinstar has electronic igntition. There are products in the market that help mitigate the unique risks of a m odern engine. Specifically, I plan to use the Vertical Power VP200 system t o manage my electrical system. The electrical design for VP200 has been vet ted by Jan. Now I have a way to mitigate the electrical risks, a way design ed by people far smarter than I The Subaru will provide very similar performance to the IO540. Perhaps the non turbo version was not as fast as the IO540, but then again that may be because it was flying on a fairly dirty airframe. With a turbo, it will cer tainly perform better at altitude. I live in a cold environment (it is -25c today). I like the idea of a water cooled engine and easier starts, no pre-heating and water based heating sy stem. I like the idea of a well balanced engine that is not vibrating the hell ou t of avionics and passengers. I especially like the idea of no more shock cooling, no more burning oil li ke a tramp steamer and a quieter engine. In my opinion, the engine portion of the firewall forward package is much s afer than a traditional a/c engine. Where are the big risks? In my opinion the biggest risk is the PSRU that ge ars down the crank RPM to a something appropriate for the prop. I know many people have mentioned that they have had problems with earlier versions. I couple of people have kindly shared their experiences on a private basis ' which I truly appreciate. So based on what I have learned to date, this seems to be the big risk I need to manage. Worst case, I need to monitor t he health of the PSRU and if problems occur, swap it out. For the differenc e in cost of the engine, I could afford to have a spare PSRU or 3 sitting o n shelf in case it was needed. The next biggest risk is electrical failure. As I mentioned above, I plan t o use a solid state system to control / monitor my a/c electrical system an d I plan to have a redundant battery system. Either way, things can hit the fan and then it will be time to do a dead st ick landing. The only way to mange this risk is to know your a/c and stay c urrent. Having a high speed Rosary might help as well. Anyway, I am not trying to convince anyone that my choice is the right one for anyone but me. As John Cox and the oracle it the Indiana Jones ride at Disney says: =93Choose Wisely=94. Unfortunately, no one knows what the wise choice is until after the fact. I reserve the right to be 100% wrong in my choice and intolerably smug if I am right. Cheers Les Kearney #40643 ' Still singing the section 29 blues C-GCWZ Reserved From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.comSent: November-28-07 1:41 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycom ing O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________Turn up the he at with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! http://www.matronics.com/co ntributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matroni cs.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 28, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
While many people focus on the engine (Auto vs Lyc/Cont) in these discussions and will make a decision based primarily on that point. I believe that the 'alternative' power issue is MUCH larger. Not only is the engine often 'new' and lacking millions of air-hours experience (which is no guarantee, but does provide a factual database for statistical analysis and expectation setting), but frequently and of necessity in most of the alternate power systems also there is a PSRU which is new or new to that engine (what was wrong with version 2? or 3? or X? how many versions will there be after the one you buy/test?), perhaps add in a new propeller? Maybe the propeller controller (electronic/?). Engine mount? Exhaust? Cooling? Electrical? Ignition? Fuel distribution? Turbo/Supercharger? Intercooler? Cowling? Cowl Flaps? Induction air? . . . . I'm sure there are others. From a risk management perspective, when you consider each item individually, for someone WELL VERSED in these technologies the individual risks may indeed be or appear to be manageable. I'm glad there are people in the world that have the skills and are able to do the experienced based engineering/analysis/discovery & experimenting. However when you consider ALL of those things possibly being combined together for the 1st time in an airplane that you are the test pilot of. If / When the power system begins to operate in an unexpected manner, which of us is able to determine _in real time_ the offending component/s? I'm sure that the mathematicians out there could provide real numbers, but when the number of variables increases the risk increases exponentially. Now there are some are well equipped with the technical engineering and test pilot skills to tackle this and find it within their comfort zone, If that's truly the case, good for you, At my advanced age I haven't the time or inclination to gain/acquire the equivalent knowledge. While we build/license and (someday :-\ ) fly our 'RV's as 'experimental' aircraft. IMHO I believe that most of us are not true 'experimenters' but rather 'kit assemblers' I don't mean to demean any of us by that term, but only to point out that in my case the selection of one of Van's designs had a LOT to do with the fact that there were over 5000 of them in the air. vs some other 'kit' mfg. So when you consider an 'alternate' engine also consider ALL of the other things that need to be a part of that power system, and if you're considering getting it as a 'package' because you think someone who is smarter / more experienced / than you has done all of the analysis, engineering, and testing make absolutely certain that whoever you buy it from FULLY discloses each and every component, and exactly how much engineering / testing has been done on ALL of the integrated parts in the package. Someone that really has that training will not hesitate to provide the information and data. A technical entrepreneur will provide anecdotes. When you have that information, assign whatever risk factors you believe in and make your decision, just make it fully informed. The real tragedy would be for someone without the background/skills to make a decision, believing one thing and then finding out, too late they were wrong. Deems Davis # 406 http://deemsrv10.com/ > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Just Two Days Left...
Dear Listers, There are just a couple days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. Over all, participation has been good, but things have been pretty slow this week for some reason. If you've been putting off making your Contribution until the last minute, this is it! The last minute, that is... :-) Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions during this Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today! http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
I wanted to comment on your statement about fuel compatibility and lower fuel expenses on the Egg engine. He is a paragraph I sent to another RV-10 builder that was interested in first hand knowledge of the Egg engine. I had 17 hours on my RV-9A/Egg engine when I had to do a forced landing which resulted in the total destruction of the plane. I didn't have it in me to go back and invest another 1,000 hours to get it flying again, so I built and now fly my RV-10 with the Lycoming IO-540. "One other thing I forgot to mention was Fuel Flow. My friend Nathan, with the RV-9A (2.5 liter non-turbo) is now cruising at 140 - 145 Knots with the third generation gear box. We flew side by side from Oshkosh 2007 straight home to Gardner, Kansas (K34), a 424 nm trip. The trip took 3 hours and I burned 28 Gals on my IO-540 RV-10 with three guys and a gross weight of 2760 lbs while the RV-9A Subaru burned 25 Gals and only had the pilot and a gross weight of 1650. You can see from this that the Subaru is no more efficient then a Lycoming and with the RV-10 being over 1000 lbs heavier, this is almost impossible to improve on. I love to tell people this story which really shows how efficient the RV-10 with the IO-540 (260 HP) can be when you run on the Lean side of Peak." I don't agree with your other comment about lower fuel expense because the RV-10 package from Jan is a Turbo which is requiring you run 100 LL, but then on top of that fuel cost you also have to run the fuel additive to scavenge the lead. This makes it more expensive to run than an IO-540. Thank You Ray Doerr N519RV (40250) 340 hours. ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV Builder (Michael Sausen) Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 3:29 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? I did some serious looking at the Egg engine back in the end of 2005 when he first offered it for the -10. The short version of much research is it offered long term fuel compatibility and lower fuel expenses at the cost of performance and integration issues along with increased complexity. Also there is potential savings for upfront costs however the Lycoming will hold its value considerably more. You can also expect Jan to be at least a year late with his delivery from whatever he initially promises. Michael From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 2:41 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycoming O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! <http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2112/fc/Ioyw6iifyEhY3GeIwBB0msdh0et p03KVkYbajnXDIRxRRsRIqxEGhG/> http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: "Perry, Phil" <Phil.Perry(at)netapp.com>
My position is much like Deems. In this process (especially if my wife is going to continue supporting the project), I am building as reasonably close to a certified airplane as possible. I'm not an experimenter and my airplane isn't an experiment. It's just going to be Experimental so I can have more flexibility. Sure we'll be using some non-certified equipment (autopilot, efis, etc) but even in those categories we're staying in the realm of the well-known. Tru-Trak, Chelton (Maybe GRT), etc. That's how we're approaching it. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Deems Davis [mailto:deemsdavis(at)cox.net] Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 12:33 AM Subject: RV10-List: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems? While many people focus on the engine (Auto vs Lyc/Cont) in these discussions and will make a decision based primarily on that point. I believe that the 'alternative' power issue is MUCH larger. Not only is the engine often 'new' and lacking millions of air-hours experience (which is no guarantee, but does provide a factual database for statistical analysis and expectation setting), but frequently and of necessity in most of the alternate power systems also there is a PSRU which is new or new to that engine (what was wrong with version 2? or 3? or X? how many versions will there be after the one you buy/test?), perhaps add in a new propeller? Maybe the propeller controller (electronic/?). Engine mount? Exhaust? Cooling? Electrical? Ignition? Fuel distribution? Turbo/Supercharger? Intercooler? Cowling? Cowl Flaps? Induction air? . . . . I'm sure there are others. From a risk management perspective, when you consider each item individually, for someone WELL VERSED in these technologies the individual risks may indeed be or appear to be manageable. I'm glad there are people in the world that have the skills and are able to do the experienced based engineering/analysis/discovery & experimenting. However when you consider ALL of those things possibly being combined together for the 1st time in an airplane that you are the test pilot of. If / When the power system begins to operate in an unexpected manner, which of us is able to determine _in real time_ the offending component/s? I'm sure that the mathematicians out there could provide real numbers, but when the number of variables increases the risk increases exponentially. Now there are some are well equipped with the technical engineering and test pilot skills to tackle this and find it within their comfort zone, If that's truly the case, good for you, At my advanced age I haven't the time or inclination to gain/acquire the equivalent knowledge. While we build/license and (someday :-\ ) fly our 'RV's as 'experimental' aircraft. IMHO I believe that most of us are not true 'experimenters' but rather 'kit assemblers' I don't mean to demean any of us by that term, but only to point out that in my case the selection of one of Van's designs had a LOT to do with the fact that there were over 5000 of them in the air. vs some other 'kit' mfg. So when you consider an 'alternate' engine also consider ALL of the other things that need to be a part of that power system, and if you're considering getting it as a 'package' because you think someone who is smarter / more experienced / than you has done all of the analysis, engineering, and testing make absolutely certain that whoever you buy it from FULLY discloses each and every component, and exactly how much engineering / testing has been done on ALL of the integrated parts in the package. Someone that really has that training will not hesitate to provide the information and data. A technical entrepreneur will provide anecdotes. When you have that information, assign whatever risk factors you believe in and make your decision, just make it fully informed. The real tragedy would be for someone without the background/skills to make a decision, believing one thing and then finding out, too late they were wrong. Deems Davis # 406 http://deemsrv10.com/ > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Yes, not just engine, but engine package as in links of the chain. With tha t said, here is an interesting point of view from someone who claims he kno ws statistics...this is just interesting reading. This guy could be Jan Egg enfellner or Dick Cheney for all I know. Don't beleive everything you read on the internet or watch on T.V. This is my disclaimer. www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/alwick/index.html As per fuel economy with the RV10 vs. the Turbo normalizing Subaru, the Lyc oming will win hands down, but undstand what the supposed tradeoffs are, th e turbo normalizer is allowing the engine to burn more fuel for more power at greater altitudes, whether that be climb or more speed is the pilots cho ice and I haven't been in one so I cannot attest to this. But that the case with the turbo normalized Lyco and Continentals which everyone claims is e ven better than a normally aspirated version. JOhn G.> Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2007 23:33:25 -0700> From: deemsdavis(at)cox.net> T o: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RV10-List: Alternate engines vs Altern vis(at)cox.net>> > While many people focus on the engine (Auto vs Lyc/Cont) in these > discussions and will make a decision based primarily on that point . I > believe that the 'alternative' power issue is MUCH larger. Not only i s > the engine often 'new' and lacking millions of air-hours experience > ( which is no guarantee, but does provide a factual database for > statistica l analysis and expectation setting), but frequently and of > necessity in m ost of the alternate power systems also there is a PSRU > which is new or n ew to that engine (what was wrong with version 2? or 3? > or X? how many ve rsions will there be after the one you buy/test?), > perhaps add in a new p ropeller? Maybe the propeller controller > (electronic/?). Engine mount? Ex haust? Cooling? Electrical? Ignition? > Fuel distribution? Turbo/Supercharg er? Intercooler? Cowling? Cowl Flaps? > Induction air? . . . . I'm sure the re are others.> From a risk management perspective, when you consider each item > individually, for someone WELL VERSED in these technologies the > in dividual risks may indeed be or appear to be manageable. I'm glad > there a re people in the world that have the skills and are able to do > the experi enced based engineering/analysis/discovery & experimenting. > However when you consider ALL of those things possibly being combined > together for the 1st time in an airplane that you are the test pilot of. > If / When the po wer system begins to operate in an unexpected manner, > which of us is able to determine _in real time_ the offending > component/s? I'm sure that the mathematicians out there could provide > real numbers, but when the number of variables increases the risk > increases exponentially.> Now there are some are well equipped with the technical engineering and > test pilot skil ls to tackle this and find it within their comfort zone, > If that's truly the case, good for you, At my advanced age I haven't the > time or inclinat ion to gain/acquire the equivalent knowledge. While we > build/license and (someday :-\ ) fly our 'RV's as 'experimental' > aircraft. IMHO I believe t hat most of us are not true 'experimenters' > but rather 'kit assemblers' I don't mean to demean any of us by that > term, but only to point out that in my case the selection of one of > Van's designs had a LOT to do with the fact that there were over 5000 > of them in the air. vs some other 'kit' m fg.> So when you consider an 'alternate' engine also consider ALL of the > other things that need to be a part of that power system, and if you're > c onsidering getting it as a 'package' because you think someone who is > sma rter / more experienced / than you has done all of the analysis, > engineer ing, and testing make absolutely certain that whoever you buy it > from FUL LY discloses each and every component, and exactly how much > engineering / testing has been done on ALL of the integrated parts in > the package. Som eone that really has that training will not hesitate to > provide the infor mation and data. A technical entrepreneur will provide > anecdotes. When yo u have that information, assign whatever risk factors > you believe in and make your decision, just make it fully informed.> The real tragedy would be for someone without the background/skills to > make a decision, believing one thing and then finding out, too late they > were wrong.> > Deems Davis ===============> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Deems Davis wrote: > If / When the power system begins to operate in an unexpected manner, > which of us is able to determine _in real time_ the offending > component/s? I'm sure that the mathematicians out there could provide > real numbers, but when the number of variables increases the risk > increases exponentially. > IMHO I believe that most of us are not true 'experimenters' but > rather 'kit assemblers' I don't mean to demean any of us by that > term, but only to point out that in my case the selection of Hi Deems, I agree with you that most of us are kit assemblers, and I don't think it would matter what type of engine is installed. Most of us are not likely to be able to determine in real time which component might be failing. However, I do not think we need to, and in fact should not even try to do this while in flight. The important thing is to recognize that there is a problem, and get the airplane on the ground in a safe manner as soon as possible. Troubleshooting should be done on the ground, not while in flight, in my opinion. Those that are considering an alternative powerplant are more likely to be the experimenter type, and realize that they will not be able to rely as much on a typical A&P for assistance, but rather are willing to educate themselves and be able to do most of the work themselves. I actually consider this a benefit, not a liability, based on my experiences with some A&Ps in the past... -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
From: "Jon Reining" <jonathan.w.reining(at)wellsfargo.com>
Date: Nov 29, 2007
I feel like every piece of aviation p0rn that I get is predicting the demise of 100LL. Environmentalists are taking on the fact that it contains lead. Refiners are reducing or shutting down production. Cost keeps climbing ($5.51 at Oakland, CA). It just doesn't seem like a rosy picture. My reasoning is that small airplanes are a very small minority to cars. Its going to take a whole lot longer for all the cars out there to be gas free than it is for 100LL to become extinct. Therefore, if we can use the same fuel as cars we'll be in business a whole lot longer. Given that, I would love to make provisions for an IO-540 that can also accept autogas, as well as autogas containing ethanol. Ideal would be to accept both autogas and 100LL and switching back and forth. Has anybody done any research on this? Is anybody else going this route? Any advice to be had? Jon Reining #40514 (along with building partner dad, Bill) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149370#149370 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > > I dont agree with your other comment about lower fuel expense because > the RV-10 package from Jan is a Turbo which is requiring you run 100 > LL, but then on top of that fuel cost you also have to run the fuel > additive to scavenge the lead. This makes it more expensive to run > than an IO-540. > Hi Ray, Just a quick "back of the napkin" figuring (mostly because I am bored at the moment... :-) ): The oil used in the Subaru is less expensive (Valvoline DuraBlend 5w30, about $1-$2 per quart), and is recommended to be changed out every 100 hours (twice that of the Lyc). Ignoring any additional oil consumption that the Lyc may burn in this time, and presuming both engines use 6 quarts of oil, in 100 hours of flying you save about $45 in oil. The Subaru recommended oil filter costs about $9 (K&N Filter: HP-1004) and the Champion oil filter for the Lyc costs about $19. In 100 hours of flying, you save $29. Between the oil and the filter, the Subaru saves you about $74 for every 100 hours of flying. The fuel additive (Decalin) is $28 per 32 ounces, used at 1/2 ounce per 10 gallons of 100LL, so you can treat 640 gallons of fuel with one bottle. Given your example of 28 gals used in 3 hours, you were using 9.3 gals per hour, and over 100 hours that is 930 gallons of fuel. That would take about 1.5 bottles of Decalin fuel additive, costing $42. It is not a huge difference, but you would still save $32 with the Subaru as compared to the Lyc IO-540 over the 100 hours. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net>
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
This is a good link for prospective. Sam #40157, Flying http://www.warmkessel.com/jr/flying/td/jd/55.jsp Jon Reining wrote: > > I feel like every piece of aviation p0rn that I get is predicting the demise of 100LL. Environmentalists are taking on the fact that it contains lead. Refiners are reducing or shutting down production. Cost keeps climbing ($5.51 at Oakland, CA). It just doesn't seem like a rosy picture. > > My reasoning is that small airplanes are a very small minority to cars. Its going to take a whole lot longer for all the cars out there to be gas free than it is for 100LL to become extinct. Therefore, if we can use the same fuel as cars we'll be in business a whole lot longer. > > Given that, I would love to make provisions for an IO-540 that can also accept autogas, as well as autogas containing ethanol. Ideal would be to accept both autogas and 100LL and switching back and forth. > > Has anybody done any research on this? Is anybody else going this route? Any advice to be had? > > Jon Reining #40514 (along with building partner dad, Bill) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149370#149370 > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Excellent points, Deems. I don't understand why people put so much attention towards alternate engines but not towards alternate airfoils, spars, bolts, brakes, etc. (Mr. Harmon excluded!). I guess the engine is a big, juicy target. "1940s technology, tractor ignition", etc., etc. I've seen Lyc/Con and auto coversions fail many times. The "upside" of a Lyc/Con failure is that it's usually pretty well understood and help is readily available. FAA puts its full effort into notifying owners about problems. Lots of people are there to at least sell you parts if not help fix the problem. Too many amatuer builders get into these things without realizing what a huge job it is to make work right. Would any successful alternative engine operators agree that it takes just as long to get the FWF part done as the rest of the plane? How many Lyc/Con operators remove it to put on alternates? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC RV-10 N921AC 50 hours, in paint GlaStar N11KN, LOM engine (same issues)...(SOLD!) >>While many people focus on the engine (Auto vs Lyc/Cont) in these discussions and will make a decision based primarily on that point. I believe that the 'alternative' power issue is MUCH larger. Not only is the engine often 'new' and lacking millions of air-hours experience (which is no guarantee, but does provide a factual database for statistical analysis and expectation setting), but frequently and of necessity in most of the alternate power systems also there is a PSRU which is new or new to that engine (what was wrong with version 2? or 3? or X? how many versions will there be after the one you buy/test?), perhaps add in a new propeller? Maybe the propeller controller (electronic/?). Engine mount? Exhaust? Cooling? Electrical? Ignition? << ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: Simon Barber <simon(at)superduper.net>
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Does anyone have any experience with running alternative fuels, such as AGE85 or straight ethanol in an IO-540? Simon Jon Reining wrote: > > I feel like every piece of aviation p0rn that I get is predicting the demise of 100LL. Environmentalists are taking on the fact that it contains lead. Refiners are reducing or shutting down production. Cost keeps climbing ($5.51 at Oakland, CA). It just doesn't seem like a rosy picture. > > My reasoning is that small airplanes are a very small minority to cars. Its going to take a whole lot longer for all the cars out there to be gas free than it is for 100LL to become extinct. Therefore, if we can use the same fuel as cars we'll be in business a whole lot longer. > > Given that, I would love to make provisions for an IO-540 that can also accept autogas, as well as autogas containing ethanol. Ideal would be to accept both autogas and 100LL and switching back and forth. > > Has anybody done any research on this? Is anybody else going this route? Any advice to be had? > > Jon Reining #40514 (along with building partner dad, Bill) > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149370#149370 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Tim Olson wrote: > > Regarding the "40's technology" of the Lyc...while some > of that's fair and true, some of it isn't. There have > been many improvements along the way. Picking apart > Dj's list (sorry Dj), things like ELECTRONIC IGNITION, > CONTROLLED TIMING, FUEL INJECTION, (EVEN SINGLE-LEVER CONTROL > WITH FADEC), NO PRIMER, NO CARB HEAT, (ABILITY TO BURN > AUTO FUEL) are things that the Lycs have been able to do. Hi Tim, No offense taken! :-) The original e-mail asked about advantages over an O-540, which does not have any of those things. I did mention that some of them could be duplicated on the Lyc. How much would it cost to add all of the above to an O-540? Taken as a collective list, I think we are really talking about adding FADEC. I know this is available for some of the 4 cyl Lycs. Is it available for the O-540? -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Tim Olson wrote: > > To scribble on the back of the napkin further.... > I buy tempest filters for < $14 each from skygeek.com. > Then you can also buy Philips x/c oil for less than > $3/qt at the same time. Early on, my oil consumption > was a total of 1 case used for my engine, from the > start of the change thru 45-50 hours. So 12qts > used ever 50 was common for many cases I used...at > most 13 qts. ($35/case) My fuel burn on x/c trips > averages 10gph, and on local flights ROP it's > about 13-14.5 gph. > That's a good price on oil - I'll have to remember skygeek.com, thanks! I was just looking at Aircraft Spruce and Amazon for typical pricing. So, in 100 hours: Lyc - $70 for oil, $28 for oil filters, totalling $98. H-6 - $30 for oil, $9 for an oil filter, totalling $39. Lyc is about $59 more for oil and filters. At 10gph, you would burn 1000 gallons of 100LL in 100 hours. I think the H-6 is closer to 8.5 - 9 gals per hour, but if we go with the same 10 gph, we would have to use 1.56 bottles of Decalin fuel additive at a cost of $44. Overall, the Lyc would be about $15 more expensive than the Subaru taking into account only the fuel (at the same burn rate), oil, and oil filters. If the H-6 burns 9gph, thus 900 gallons over the 100 hours, you'd save an additional approximate $400 in fuel costs if the 100LL fuel prices stay around $4 per gallon, more if they increase. In the grand scheme of aviation costs, these particular numbers are close enough that I can't see it having a major influence on a purchase decision. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Tim Olson wrote: > > > PS: that's one of the down sides of most alternatives...they > don't provide for redundant ignition. > I totally agree. This has been one of the major niggling points for me. I've looked into this some, and the MTBF of the electronic ignition systems are extremely low. Statistically, the chances of the ignition system failing during my expected flying-lifetime is practically nil. However, I realize statistics are a numbers game, and someone has to be on the bottom end of the bell curve, so there are no guarantees. There is an interesting read on this topic here: http://www.sdsefi.com/air6.html -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Great response Gary. Stated absolutely accurately. You new-to-building-guys read this again, Gary is absolutely correct. Wish you were our Tech Councilor here in Santa Maria, CA Gary, we could use your wisdom. Chuck RV9A slow build flying RV10 70% done, 70% to go! ----- Original Message ----- From: gary To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 1:24 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? In my 30 years involved in the homebuilding experience most folks choose and alternate engine based on claims made by the engine seller. Many times there is no scientific way to verify those claims, or the engine seller convinces the buyer to be his test bed for a reduced cost of the engine. I have yet to see an installation where the claims were met or exceeded. Whether that be for cost, fuel economy, ease of overhaul, or an endless list of other claims that would make an alternate engine superior to a Lycosaurus. I too would love to see an economical choice besides the old Lycosaurus, but an auto engine, even if converted, is a very different beast than an aircraft engine. There is IMHO not enough volume to pay for the extensive research required to bring an alternative engine to market with scientific testing required to verify its suitability for flight. Even Mooney with all it's $$$ did not have a successful Porsche conversion. Yes it met some goals but not all and to meet the rest of the goals would cost even more $$, pushing it out of the market. So that leaves us the homebuilder to be the test bed for the engine manufacturer. As long as the homebuilder fully understands all that that entails, great. My beef is that in all the cases over the years that I have witnessed an alternative engine install, the builder learned what he didn't know about the process of testing a conversion, way to far into the process for him to change his mind. He would have had to take a huge financial hit. Some folks took the hit, some went on and ended up spending way more than they would have on a Lyc installation. An old time EAA member told me that if you are thinking of buying anything for your aircraft, including an engine, go to Oshkosh and see if there are at least 10 of that item there and at least 8 of the folks are happy with it, if so go buy it. If you buy before that time just to get the newest and latest, you are the test subject. Fully understand that concept of you doing the testing for the manufacturer. It will delay your first flight, it will cost an unknown quantity of $ because the manufacturer does not yet know what breaks and how soon. Just because it runs does not make it durable. Know what you are getting yourself into when you agree to be a pioneer. Thank goodness for pioneers. We need pioneers. I am sure the first folks to cross this great land had no idea how much the trip would cost. Just fully understand what you are signing up for. It is one of those dark little secrets that so many of our fellow builders have been burned trying to push the envelope. I think it is great if you want to be the pioneer, just make the choice to be one, a fully informed choice. Gary Tech Councilor, Flight Advisor, presently building my 4th aircraft. Yes, I am an old fart. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ddddsp1(at)juno.com Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 3:41 PM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RE: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Can someone update me on the ADVANTAGES of an Eggenfeller engine vs a Lycoming O-540 for the RV10? Dean _____________________________________________________________ Turn up the heat with a beautiful new home sauna. Click now! http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- 11/29/2007 11:10 AM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
You keep using the E6 as an example, you don't mean to put and E6 into the 10 do you? Don't you mean E6Tor TI. With the turbo using the oil for its bearings, you may need to change the o il more than on a E6. Also consider the reduction drive gear oil. I think this exercise is a little too small to be considerred. Now where is that sushi knife? > Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 13:25:36 -0500> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subje ct: Re: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?> From: yRV10.com>> >> > To scribble on the back of the napkin further....> > I buy tempest filters for < $14 each from skygeek.com.> > Then you can also buy Philips x/c oil for less than> > $3/qt at the same time. Early on, my oil c onsumption> > was a total of 1 case used for my engine, from the> > start o f the change thru 45-50 hours. So 12qts> > used ever 50 was common for many cases I used...at> > most 13 qts. ($35/case) My fuel burn on x/c trips> > averages 10gph, and on local flights ROP it's> > about 13-14.5 gph.> >> Tha t's a good price on oil - I'll have to remember skygeek.com,> thanks! I was just looking at Aircraft Spruce and Amazon for typical> pricing. > > So, i n 100 hours:> > Lyc - $70 for oil, $28 for oil filters, totalling $98.> H-6 - $30 for oil, $9 for an oil filter, totalling $39.> > Lyc is about $59 mo re for oil and filters.> > At 10gph, you would burn 1000 gallons of 100LL i n 100 hours. I think> the H-6 is closer to 8.5 - 9 gals per hour, but if we go with the same> 10 gph, we would have to use 1.56 bottles of Decalin fue l additive at a> cost of $44.> > Overall, the Lyc would be about $15 more e xpensive than the Subaru> taking into account only the fuel (at the same bu rn rate), oil, and oil> filters. If the H-6 burns 9gph, thus 900 gallons ov er the 100 hours,> you'd save an additional approximate $400 in fuel costs if the 100LL> fuel prices stay around $4 per gallon, more if they increase. > > In the grand scheme of aviation costs, these particular numbers are> cl ose enough that I can't see it having a major influence on a purchase> deci sion.> > -Dj> > -- > Dj Merrill - N1JOV> Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #711 8 N421DJ> http://deej.net/sportsman/> > "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an > airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 20 ==> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
It's very simple for me. I am so far removed from truly knowing what I need to know in order not to be anything other than dangerous to myself and others that it's not funny. What's the phrase? I do not even know enough to ask the right questions. Now. That does not mean I'm not learning, but it does mean I understand my limits. Sure, I've rebuilt engines in my day, and done a good job. Also, I'm good with a puzzle, with my hands and am very analytic. But, I'm no engineer and no mechanic with years of experience. So, that leaves me with history. Lycoming engines have history and depth of knowledge. It is a known quantity, and it is something around which this particular airframe was (in some respects) built. I will have enough on my plate to learn what I need and want to learn about, in no particular order: EFIS, Electronic ignition, LOP flying, IFR, GPS, Autopilot, Brake systems, Electric trim, Batteries and alternators, electrical diagrams, fuel systems, constant speed propellers, brake systems, exhaust systems, heating systems, lighting systems, wiring, sealants, fuel systems......... Think that I'll stay with the depth of history, depth of knowledge that exists so I can "safely" enjoy this creation. Then, when I'm done with that part of my education, I might start another project and feel ready for another challenge, perhaps an alternative engine. So, bless your collective hearts, you alternative engine guys and gals, I wish you all the success and will closely follow your progress. Joining you is just not in my personal knowledge space at this time. Thus, my point. This is a great undertaking (some call it a hobby, which I think is a word reserved for model trains), but one that has some serious consequences if not done carefully and with knowledge. If you don't have the ability to know enough to know what questions to ask, I really don't think you should be playing with something that has so many unknowns. I was put off by Jan in the very beginning because he brushed aside, with some bluster, my questions. I do not see Bart or others doing the same. They don't need to. The depth of knowledge is such that they can be silent and I can get the information anyway. They are helpful because of the great people they are, but also because there is competition. They want your business, your respect, and your advocacy. Thus, the learning opportunities are so much greater, and for me, therefore, is the safety. The differences AT THIS TIME are so small (given some very real physics) between the older technologies and the newer, along with their respective FWF packages and the need to learn so great....well, you get the picture. John J 40328 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Saylor Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 9:17 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems? Excellent points, Deems. I don't understand why people put so much attention towards alternate engines but not towards alternate airfoils, spars, bolts, brakes, etc. (Mr. Harmon excluded!). I guess the engine is a big, juicy target. "1940s technology, tractor ignition", etc., etc. I've seen Lyc/Con and auto coversions fail many times. The "upside" of a Lyc/Con failure is that it's usually pretty well understood and help is readily available. FAA puts its full effort into notifying owners about problems. Lots of people are there to at least sell you parts if not help fix the problem. Too many amatuer builders get into these things without realizing what a huge job it is to make work right. Would any successful alternative engine operators agree that it takes just as long to get the FWF part done as the rest of the plane? How many Lyc/Con operators remove it to put on alternates? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC RV-10 N921AC 50 hours, in paint GlaStar N11KN, LOM engine (same issues)...(SOLD!) >>While many people focus on the engine (Auto vs Lyc/Cont) in these discussions and will make a decision based primarily on that point. I believe that the 'alternative' power issue is MUCH larger. Not only is the engine often 'new' and lacking millions of air-hours experience (which is no guarantee, but does provide a factual database for statistical analysis and expectation setting), but frequently and of necessity in most of the alternate power systems also there is a PSRU which is new or new to that engine (what was wrong with version 2? or 3? or X? how many versions will there be after the one you buy/test?), perhaps add in a new propeller? Maybe the propeller controller (electronic/?). Engine mount? Exhaust? Cooling? Electrical? Ignition? << ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: David Hertner <effectus(at)rogers.com>
Subject: Re: Alternate engines vs Alternate power systems?
Hi everyone, This has to be one of my favorite subjects! I have long followed the alternative engine discussion and even went so far as to do some major research into the creation of an alternative engine based on an automotive V8. I agree that there are a number of viable engines out there that would make a good basis for an aircraft engine. I also agree that there is a collective need to come up with a viable alternative to the venerable, high maintenance horizontally opposed air cooled direct drive engine for small propeller driven aircraft. Something that can be swapped with OEM installations. Unfortunately the direction we always look is to the automotive sector for salvation. Even the likes of Theilalert (sp?) have taken automotive diesel technology and converted it for aircraft use. The only people that I see doing the proper type of engine development in the aircraft engine arena and who aren't one of the major players is DeltaHawk and look at the time they have had in trying to bring a new design to market. Unfortunately and fortunately it is going to take a different approach to designing an engine system for aircraft before we see a true alternative to the current offerings. We are planning a long term strategy that will take a new highly efficient compressor technology and develop a Brayton-Cycle engine for small propeller driven aircraft. We plan to develop the engine for land based electrical power generation first so that we can put the countless hours of test time in without putting any lives at risk. We will then start to put together a test plan that installs a thoroughly tested engine in a thoroughly tested airframe. Professional test pilots will conduct the proper engine and aircraft performance tests which will be documented and available to the prospective buyer. This is all about 10 years down the road because that is the time it is going to take to do it right. When it is done though we should have a pure rotation engine system that fits perfectly into the place where an IO-360 and IO-540 would fit. Same mount, same cowl. We'll make no other performance guarantees at this time but it will be comparable or better than the engine it replaces. Otherwise, what's the point? This is how it should be done. Dave Hertner #40164 Wiring and Contemplating hanging the IO-540 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
John Gonzalez wrote: > You keep using the E6 as an example, you don't mean to put and E6 into > the 10 do you? I mean the E6 with the turbo, so E6T. I've always referred to it as the H-6 since that was the original name for it when it first came out. My apologies if I created any confusion. > > With the turbo using the oil for its bearings, you may need to change > the oil more than on a E6. Also consider the reduction drive gear oil. I was referring to the Engine manual (http://www.eggenfellneraircraft.com/ESeriesInstallationGuide.pdf). I do not believe there are any differences in the oil or change frequency (at least that I could find in the manual) between the E6 and the E6T. > > I think this exercise is a little too small to be considerred. Yup, that's the point! :-) I don't think the numbers show any appreciable difference in the overall daily cost of running either powerplant (E6T versus the 540). Engine overhaul costs, PSRU overhaul costs, spark plugs, etc. may have other impacts, but basic fluid costs (fuel and oil) are not likely to have much difference between the two engines on average, even if we include the PSRU gear oil and radiator coolant. At least, not enough difference that it should be used as a major influence on the purchase decision. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Just wanted to post an update that we (Vertical Power) are currently working on support for an additional aux battery and also support for the Subaru engine. If you are installing a second battery on a single bus system, we can monitor and display the voltage of that battery. Additionally, low voltage alarms can be triggered off that battery. We've had good demand from customers who are also installing the Eggenfellner Subaru engine (mostly in -7s and -10s) and we are now working on support for that engine. The system will display coolant temp and gearbox temp. There is also a wiring diagram developed specifically for the unique needs of the Subaru engine (found under support/docs on our web site). You can see a mock up of the Subaru screen here http://www.verticalpower.com/forums/showthread.php?p=727#post727 -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149427#149427 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: "Doerr, Ray R [NTK]" <Ray.R.Doerr(at)sprint.com>
Add in one oil analyses kit for the Lycoming and two for the Subaru, one for engine oil and one for gear oil. Thank You Ray Doerr -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 12:26 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use? Tim Olson wrote: > > To scribble on the back of the napkin further.... > I buy tempest filters for < $14 each from skygeek.com. > Then you can also buy Philips x/c oil for less than > $3/qt at the same time. Early on, my oil consumption > was a total of 1 case used for my engine, from the > start of the change thru 45-50 hours. So 12qts > used ever 50 was common for many cases I used...at > most 13 qts. ($35/case) My fuel burn on x/c trips > averages 10gph, and on local flights ROP it's > about 13-14.5 gph. > That's a good price on oil - I'll have to remember skygeek.com, thanks! I was just looking at Aircraft Spruce and Amazon for typical pricing. So, in 100 hours: Lyc - $70 for oil, $28 for oil filters, totalling $98. H-6 - $30 for oil, $9 for an oil filter, totalling $39. Lyc is about $59 more for oil and filters. At 10gph, you would burn 1000 gallons of 100LL in 100 hours. I think the H-6 is closer to 8.5 - 9 gals per hour, but if we go with the same 10 gph, we would have to use 1.56 bottles of Decalin fuel additive at a cost of $44. Overall, the Lyc would be about $15 more expensive than the Subaru taking into account only the fuel (at the same burn rate), oil, and oil filters. If the H-6 burns 9gph, thus 900 gallons over the 100 hours, you'd save an additional approximate $400 in fuel costs if the 100LL fuel prices stay around $4 per gallon, more if they increase. In the grand scheme of aviation costs, these particular numbers are close enough that I can't see it having a major influence on a purchase decision. -Dj -- Dj Merrill - N1JOV Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
It occurred to me that many RV10 builders reaction to "I'm going with an Subie!" is analogous to the general public's reaction to "you're building a plane... and you are going to fly in it!" Of course the universal answer is, "sure, why not? no problem." Reminds me of soaring's favorite question, "you fly an airplane (sic) without an engine!" etc Bill "RV10 building interupted by a dishwasher install from hell" Watson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
Subject: Re: Is there a call for planned alternate engine use?
From: Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net>
Doerr, Ray R [NTK] wrote: > > > Add in one oil analyses kit for the Lycoming and two for the > Subaru, one for engine oil and one for gear oil. For every 100 hours, the Lyc would use 2 as well as the Subaru (Lyc oil changes every 50 hours, Subaru every 100 hours), so you'd break even here. -Dj -- Dj Merrill Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 http://deej.net/sportsman/ "Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Engine Choices
Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars................. Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings? Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine. Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to snuff, much less the airframe. Thoughts? Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 29, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Choices
This has been on my mind a bit lately as well. If anybody has any ideas on this I'm all ears. Would there be enough cooling airflow with the aircraft tethered on the ground, uncowled? Deems Davis # 406 'Its all done....Its just not put together' http://deemsrv10.com/ Kelly McMullen wrote: > Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars................. > Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before > flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings? > Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new > airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine. > Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that > isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing > out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want > to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to > snuff, much less the airframe. > Thoughts? > Comments? > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
I'm ready to build my battery box and need to modify it to fit dual battery's. Only problem is that I don't know which battery to use. Any suggestions??? How does one decide on which battery is the "right" battery, and where can I find measurements for these batteries so I know how big to make the tray. Thanks, Bill ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser!
Dear Listers, Its November 30th and that means a couple of things. Its my 44th birthday for one, but I'm trying to forget about that... But, it also means that its that last official day of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been drooling over one of the really sweet free gifts that are available this year with a qualifying Contribution, then now is the time to jump on one!! If you've been meaning to make a Contribution, but just keep putting it off, then now is the time! I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want to be known as a person that supported the Lists! Rather than the guy that, er, ah, forgot (or whatever)... :-) I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution so far this year in support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation a float and I don't ever forget it. Hopefully everyone will feel the same. The List Contribution page is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making your Contribution right now: http://www.matronics.com/contribution Thank you all in advance! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Bill, I=A1=AFm about ready to do the same. Most people I believe are using the Odyssey 680. Pictures of Dan Lloyd=A1=AFs solution can be found at: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/DansBatteryBox/index.html Bob Condrey=A1=AFs can be found at: http://www.myrv10.com/tips/mods/DualBatteries/Bob_Condreys_Batteries.jpg Bob=A1=AFs solution appears to be the easiest to construct. Specs are: PC 680 Specs: =A1=A4 Motorcycle / Powersports / Marine / Medium Duty =A1=A4 Ahr (amp hours) @20 hr. rate 17 Ahr =A1=A4 Pulse Discharge (HCA) =A1=A4 5 sec. 680 A =A1=A4 10 sec. 595 A =A1=A4 20 sec. 525 A =A1=A4 HCA @ 80=A8=ACF (27=A8=ACC) 370 A =A1=A4 CA @ 32=A8=ACF (0=A8=ACC) 300 A =A1=A4 CCA 220 A =A1=A4 Reserve Capacity @ 25 A 25 min. =A1=A4 Cycle Life (Deep cycle capability) 400 @ 100% DOD (depth of discharge) =A1=A4 500 @ 80% DOD =A1=A4 Temperature Range -40=A8=ACF (-40=A8=ACC) to 176=A8=ACF (80=A8=ACC) =A1=A4 Resistance at 1 kHz @ 77=A8=ACF 7m =A5=D8 =A1=A4 Short circuit current 1800 A =A1=A4 Terminals Female threaded for M6 stainless bolt =A1=A4 Max. installation torque 50 in-lb. DIMENSIONS =A1=A4 Length 7 =A8=F9 in. 7.27 in. 184.7 mm =A1=A4 Width 3 1/16 in. 3.11 in. 79.0 mm =A1=A4 Height* 6 5/8 in. 6.67 in. 169.4 mm =A1=A4 Weight 15.4 lb. 7.0 kg =A1=A4 *Height is measure to top of terminal Other Features =A1=A4 2 year replacement warranty in powersports, motorcycle and specialty applications =A1=A4 Available with protective metal jacket (PC 680 MJ) =A1=A4 Available with non-corrosive, brass automotive terminal or 5/16=A1=B1 stainless steel stud =A1=A4 Can be mounted in any orientation (not recommended for inverted use) =A1=A4 12 year design life with 6 to 10 year service life =A1=A4 Fully charged out of box =A1=A4 2 year shelf life @ 77=A8=ACF (25=A8=ACC) Bob #40684 From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list- server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill & Tami Britton Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 1:12 AM Subject: RV10-List: Dual battery I'm ready to build my battery box and need to modify it to fit dual battery's. Only problem is that I don't know which battery to use. Any suggestions??? How does one decide on which battery is the "right" battery, and where can I find measurements for these batteries so I know how big to make the tray. Thanks, Bill __________ NOD32 2694 (20071130) Information __________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine)
That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3 hours would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I suppose doing high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts of power, then was shut down immediately might be OK, as an alternative, with full cowling in place. Deems, I know you would not get adequate cooling without the cooling and some forward motion. On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks wrote: > Kelly, Deem, > > You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated with m y > engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the dyno instead of > their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent in my deposit for the > engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4 hours but my contract said 3 so > I asked if they could run it another hour since it was still on the stand . > They said sure=85 for $500/hour. > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Subject: Re: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Here's by dual battery installation. I've built a pair of equipment shelves that attach to the Van's standard battery/ bellcrank center plate. Regarding the batteries. They are both Panasonic LCR SLA type batteries. The main battery is a 28 Amp-hour. The auxilary battery is a 17 amp-hour type. (although a 20 amp-hour is now available in the exact same size). I've used the 28 amp-hour battery in our Glastar for 3 years now and it has worked very well. When I did my search for batteries I was looking for something equivalent to the Concord battery that's been designed to mount in the RV-10 battery tray (Coincidently this is the same size battery mount used in the Glastar). I found that the Panasonic battery is dimmesionally similar to the Concord battery (about 3/4" shorter in lenght, other dimesions the same) and about 75%or less of the cost. Also the Panasonic batteries were available from many distributors. (including Digi-key) Recently I found the 28 amp hour battery for sale in PartsExpress for $74.50 (www.parts-express.com) although I have not tried to order it from them. Panasonic 28 amp-hour (6.50x 4.92x 7.07") model# LC-x1228P Digi-key part # P049-ND $95 Panasonic 17 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-RD1217P Digi-key part #P174-ND $60 Panasonic 20 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-x1220P Digi-key part #P231-ND $75 Regrads, Bob Newman www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: engine breakin
Date: Nov 30, 2007
FWIW My new (1997) Lycoming O360A4M sat in my study until 2003. I ran it for about a total of 20 minutes on the ground prior to a high speed taxi test by the test pilot to confirm ground handling and brakes. thereafter my Glastar was flown by the test pilot for 1.3 hours at high power settings and landed. There are 440 TT on the engine and it uses one quart between oil changes at 35 hour intervals. I will be talking to my Lycoming rep before first flight in my 10 but in initial discussions he indicated that the ground runs should be short and should be used to "remove the set" of the fuel injection unit. I would expect no more than 30 minutes total ground run over about 6 starts. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine)
So how do the engine builders cool the engines when they run them on their test stands for prolonged periods? The BPE dyno is inside IIRC, and I recall numerous pictures of engine 'test cells' where the engine is mounted on a trailer or the back of a truck. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just trying to learn and understand. I think I'll give Rhonda/Allen a shout and see if they've got any suggestions. Anybody know how Aerosport does their test runs? Deems Kelly McMullen wrote: > That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3 > hours would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I > suppose doing high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts > of power, then was shut down immediately might be OK, as an > alternative, with full cowling in place. Deems, I know you would not > get adequate cooling without the cooling and some forward motion. > > On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks > wrote: > > Kelly, Deem, > > You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated > with my engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the > dyno instead of their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent > in my deposit for the engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4 > hours but my contract said 3 so I asked if they could run it > another hour since it was still on the stand. They said sure for > $500/hour. > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Engine Choices
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the best way IMHO. Don't forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know. Gary 40274 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Engine Choices Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars................. Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings? Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine. Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to snuff, much less the airframe. Thoughts? Comments? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Dual battery
Bill, I used dual PC 680's here's a link to some photos : http://deemsrv10.com/album/Sec%2039%20Control%20System/slides/DSC02860.html click forward through a series of 6-7 photos. Deems Davis # 406 'punch' list is down to 2 pages (from 3 1/2) http://deemsrv10.com/ Bill & Tami Britton wrote: > I'm ready to build my battery box and need to modify it to fit dual > battery's. Only problem is that I don't know which battery to use. > Any suggestions??? How does one decide on which battery is the > "right" battery, and where can I find measurements for these batteries > so I know how big to make the tray. > > Thanks, > Bill > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine)
Test stands or dynos they use a "club" prop to move air, and a big pressure plenum over the engine, and possibly some additional big fans to keep cyl temps where they belong. On Nov 30, 2007 6:19 AM, Deems Davis wrote: > > So how do the engine builders cool the engines when they run them on > their test stands for prolonged periods? The BPE dyno is inside IIRC, > and I recall numerous pictures of engine 'test cells' where the engine > is mounted on a trailer or the back of a truck. I'm not trying to be > argumentative, just trying to learn and understand. I think I'll give > Rhonda/Allen a shout and see if they've got any suggestions. Anybody > know how Aerosport does their test runs? > > Deems > > Kelly McMullen wrote: > > That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3 > > hours would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I > > suppose doing high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts > > of power, then was shut down immediately might be OK, as an > > alternative, with full cowling in place. Deems, I know you would not > > get adequate cooling without the cooling and some forward motion. > > > > On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks > > wrote: > > > > Kelly, Deem, > > > > You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated > > with my engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the > > dyno instead of their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent > > in my deposit for the engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4 > > hours but my contract said 3 so I asked if they could run it > > another hour since it was still on the stand. They said sure=85 for > > $500/hour. > > > > > > * > > > > > > * > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Choices
Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult would it be to fabricate? Deems gary wrote: > > Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine > that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to > cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent > the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the > airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can > thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to > sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the > best way IMHO. Dont forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or > other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know. > > Gary > > 40274 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly > McMullen > *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices > > Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars................. > Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before > flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings? > Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new > airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine. > Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that > isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing > out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want > to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to > snuff, much less the airframe. > Thoughts? > Comments? > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com>
Subject: Re: Dual battery
Jesse, I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to my -10. Best regards, Bob Newman www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine)
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "BPA" <BPA(at)bpaengines.com>
Guys, You need to keep your taxi tests (and all ground runs) as short as possible. On the ground there is NOT enough cooling air to keep the CHT's in check. Several 5-10 minute tests are much better than a couple of lengthy runs around the airport. Need to keep CHT's in the 300-330 range while testing. Many a new/overhauled engine have had the jugs removed to 'deglaze' the barrels because of extensive ground running. We test new engines for 1 1/2 hours on our dynamometer. Additional time is required whether it be on the dyno or in the airplane. Keep in mind however that extensive ground running at any time can lead to what we call coked cylinders. When a cylinder gets hot, the oil 'cooks' and adheres itself to the barrel. When this happens, instead of the rings scraping the oil off the barrel (to dissipate the generated heat and to lubricate), the rings hydroplane over the barrel. This leads to blo-by, dirty oil, and a lot of wiping the belly down on your bird. Allen -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:20 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Choices (Taxi Testing New Engine) So how do the engine builders cool the engines when they run them on their test stands for prolonged periods? The BPE dyno is inside IIRC, and I recall numerous pictures of engine 'test cells' where the engine is mounted on a trailer or the back of a truck. I'm not trying to be argumentative, just trying to learn and understand. I think I'll give Rhonda/Allen a shout and see if they've got any suggestions. Anybody know how Aerosport does their test runs? Deems Kelly McMullen wrote: > That is definitely one of the solutions I had in mind. I'd think 3 > hours would be the bare minimum to get the rings somewhat seated. I > suppose doing high speed taxi tests where the engine got a few bursts > of power, then was shut down immediately might be OK, as an > alternative, with full cowling in place. Deems, I know you would not > get adequate cooling without the cooling and some forward motion. > > On Nov 30, 2007 12:13 AM, Robin Marks > wrote: > > Kelly, Deem, > > You can categorize this under too little too late but I negotiated > with my engine builder to run my engine a total of 3 hours on the > dyno instead of their standard 1.5 hours. I did this BEFORE I sent > in my deposit for the engine. I originally thought we agreed on 4 > hours but my contract said 3 so I asked if they could run it > another hour since it was still on the stand. They said sure... for > $500/hour. > > > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: bolt/nut torques
Date: Nov 30, 2007
I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy??? Thanks in advance Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gary" <speckter(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Engine Choices
Date: Nov 30, 2007
I do not have any pix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels. Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the engine shop and measure. Gary 40274 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:45 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Engine Choices Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult would it be to fabricate? Deems gary wrote: > > Most engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine > that catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to > cool them. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent > the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the > airplane and test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can > thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to > sit there and be doing a full engine run for that long but it is the > best way IMHO. Don't forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or > other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know. > > Gary > > 40274 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly > McMullen > *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Subject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices > > Now, to break you away from the alternate engine wars................. > Has anyone considered a way to do taxi testing on your bird before > flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings? > Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test flying a new > airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine. > Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine that > isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxiing > out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't want > to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to > snuff, much less the airframe. > Thoughts? > Comments? > > * > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: engine breakin
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Hi David, Concur on the less than 5 min initial runs. Do you know what he meant by "remove the set" of the fuel injection unit? Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill<mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 5:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: engine breakin FWIW My new (1997) Lycoming O360A4M sat in my study until 2003. I ran it for about a total of 20 minutes on the ground prior to a high speed taxi test by the test pilot to confirm ground handling and brakes. thereafter my Glastar was flown by the test pilot for 1.3 hours at high power settings and landed. There are 440 TT on the engine and it uses one quart between oil changes at 35 hour intervals. I will be talking to my Lycoming rep before first flight in my 10 but in initial discussions he indicated that the ground runs should be short and should be used to "remove the set" of the fuel injection unit. I would expect no more than 30 minutes total ground run over about 6 starts. http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List igator?RV10-List> ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine Choices
From: "RV10 4JF" <ETskypilot(at)aol.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Hi all, I've been lurking here for some time. I am hoping to order a tail kit at Sun n Fun 08. When I overhauled my TSIO-520 I made a hood so I could do an on aircraft engine run-in, check engine parameters and setup the FI pressures. Setting up the pressures is an involved process and time consuming. I made a hood so the engine got proper air flow past the cylinder. In my case, I made it out of plywood and metal flashing from Home Depot. I then set it on my engine baffles and tied it to the engine. It worked pretty well. I followed an article I found on the subject of ground running an engine. I will take a picture tomorrow and see if I can post it. JF Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149634#149634 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Engine Choices
Date: Nov 30, 2007
When you guys get one constructed and go to test it you should have a cam c order running just in case something unexpected happens, like the whole thi ng flies away, hits the windscreen, tumbles over the top of the plane, dama ges the tail cone and then takes out the vertical stabilizer and then lands on the horizontal stab. At least with the film you could send it in to America's funniest home vide os and win the prize and pay for a new plane. JOhn G. 409 Just thinking out load > From: speckter(at)comcast.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: RV1 0-List: Engine Choices> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 09:09:24 -0500> > --> RV10-L ist message posted by: "gary" > > I do not have any p ix. It would not be difficult to make one. It has> straight side walls that go from the rocker covers straight up. It goes> from the rear baffle area arc forward to about 16" above the engine. It has> reinforcement angles to stiffen the larger panels.> > Sorry I don't know more. If I get a chance I will try and go over to the> engine shop and measure.> > Gary> 40274> > --- --Original Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailt o:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Deems Davis> Sent: Fri day, November 30, 2007 8:45 AM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: R eemsdavis(at)cox.net>> > Gary any photos/links of what this 'hood' looks like? How difficult > would it be to fabricate?> > Deems> > gary wrote:> >> > Mo st engine shops have a hood that is mounted on the top of the engine > > th at catches prop air and directs it down through the cylinders to > > cool t hem. It is how they test run the engines they overhaul. I rent > > the hood from the engine shop, install it on my engine while in the > > airplane an d test run it at least 3 hours and more if I can. I can > > thus check all instrumentation at the same time. It is a boring job to > > sit there and b e doing a full engine run for that long but it is the > > best way IMHO. Do n't forget to tie the tail to a large tree, truck, or > > other immoveable object. It will jump over chocks. Ask me how I know.> >> > Gary> >> > 40274 > >> > -------------------------------------------------------------------- ----> >> > *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com > > [mailto:owner-r v10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Kelly > > McMullen> > *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 12:23 AM> > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com> > *Su bject:* RV10-List: Engine Choices> >> > Now, to break you away from the alt ernate engine wars.................> > Has anyone considered a way to do ta xi testing on your bird before > > flying, without worrying about break-in of new rings?> > Seems to me that it would be a lot safer to only be test f lying a new > > airframe, not a new airframe and a freshly built/overhauled engine.> > Definitely would not want to do any taxi testing on an engine t hat > > isn't at least somewhat broken in. Not to keen on the idea of taxii ng > > out with brand fresh engine for first test flight, when you don't wa nt > > to glaze cylinders, and you really don't know if engine is up to > > snuff, much less the airframe.> > Thoughts?> > Comments?> >> > *> >> > *> ====> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Subject: Re: bolt/nut torques
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Bill, The torque value ranges are in Section 5 of the plans, which you would need to add to the driving torque to get the final torque settings. I have two torque wrenches, one that handles around 10-150in/lbs and one that handles foot lbs high enough to torque the wing attach bolts. You will only use the big one a few times, so that might be worth just borrowing, but the small one you will use a LOT, so I would recommend getting a good one. Local stores would probably have them as you mentioned, but don't get a junky one. I got mine from Avery, and not the cheapest one they sell. I believe the one I have is made by the same people that make the Snap-On version, but don't quote me there. It is nice and solid and easy to handle. Most of them should work right out of the box. Calibration needs to be done with equipment that you won't have, but there are probably local shops that can calibrate for you periodically. Again, I think it is worth getting a good small wrench and maybe just planning on borrowing one for the few big bolts that you need to torque. IIRC the 150in/lbs will serve for up to AN5 bolts at least. There aren't very many over that size, just places like engine mount, landing gear, and wing attach. Hope this helps, as it is all from memory. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse(at)saintaviation.com Cell: 352-427-0285 Fax: 815-377-3694 On Nov 30, 2007, at 9:33 AM, Bill & Tami Britton wrote: > I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using > more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque > different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's > any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, > Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland, > etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's > usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench > do I need to buy??? > > Thanks in advance > > Bill Britton > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: bolt/nut torques
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
I got the Avery - it is pre-calibrated and works well. I was told to relieve the tension when it is not in use. I think as Jessie stated that it is made in the same factory as snap-on. I looked far and wide for a 1/4" drive and finally paid the $200 You can get the big ones cheap at Harbor Freight -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149642#149642 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net>
Subject: Re: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4" larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I get them. Thanks again for all the input, Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery > > Jesse, > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will > get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a > RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to > my -10. > > Best regards, > Bob Newman > www.tcwtech.com > > > -- > 11/29/2007 11:10 AM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DOUGPFLYRV(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
_http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm_ (http://www.rivethead-aero.com/rv10_005.htm) **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternate engines
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
There ARE alternative engines out there that have been specifically developed for aircraft. Some examples: Bombardier 'V' engines SMA diesel One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as a viable market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they weren't interested in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said they may work through kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing yet. Of course, these engines aren't cheap either. SMA was $55,000 for just the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with mechanical backup. TDT 40025 I love wheelpants! Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: engine on the ground
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Dawson-Townsend,Timothy" <tdawson-townsend(at)aurora.aero>
Deems wrote: >This has been on my mind a bit lately as well. If anybody has any ideas >on this I'm all ears. Would there be enough cooling airflow with the >aircraft tethered on the ground, uncowled? No. Actually, they make sort of "extended hood" faux cowls to trap more prop blast and direct it down over an engine for ground runs. TDT Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Alternate engines
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com>
I ran into the same dilemma with Hartzell at OSH '07. They will offer the 3 blade composite to us, (now available on the Cirrus G3) only if Richard VanGrunsven offers it as a kit built option through the company. It has all the features of the aluminum Scmitar with less weight, more climb power and less vibration transmission - plus the sex appeal. John Cox - 40600 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:24 AM Subject: RV10-List: Alternate engines There ARE alternative engines out there that have been specifically developed for aircraft. Some examples: Bombardier 'V' engines SMA diesel One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as a viable market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they weren't interested in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said they may work through kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing yet. Of course, these engines aren't cheap either. SMA was $55,000 for just the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with mechanical backup. TDT 40025 I love wheelpants! Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <rv(at)thelefflers.com>
Subject: Re: bolt/nut torques
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Van's put a chart in the manual. It's in the booklet that consisted of the first five chapters. You can get the wrenches anywhere. You tend to get what you pay for. Also, be carefull to ensure whatever wrench you get that the value you need isn't on the end of the range the extend. The closer you get to the end range of the wrench, the less accurate they are. I was lazy and purchased mine from Avery. I also got a digital one with a buzzer, so I don't have to bend over backwards to read the display. > > From: "Bill & Tami Britton" <william(at)gbta.net> > Date: 2007/11/30 Fri AM 09:33:29 EST > To: > Subject: RV10-List: bolt/nut torques > > I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy??? > > Thanks in advance > > Bill Britton > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: bolt/nut torques
Section 5 page 13 has Torques Buy a in-lbs torque wrench through Amazon, or other source, they tend to be less than HD or Lowes Comes calibrated and get whatever size you already use with your tools, 1/4 or 3/8- all the same since you are doing very little torque on the bolts (like 2 ft lbs on AN3 bolts) Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill & Tami Britton To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 6:33 AM Subject: RV10-List: bolt/nut torques I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy??? Thanks in advance Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
From: "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
I ordered door pins and handles, static ports on Oct. 29. Although I got no response to an email, I was pleasantly surprised when UPS delivered everything today. Beautiful workmanship. Jim Berry 40482 N15JB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149679#149679 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead - Aero
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Got my set of door pins today. I am a happy camper (7 wks) -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149681#149681 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rivethead Aero
From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Got my set today - Happy camper (7 wks) :D :D :D :D -------- OSH '08 or Bust Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149682#149682 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: Volunteer needed! We'll fit your composite top, no charge
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Attention fuselage builders! We're finalizing dates for another AirCrafters composite workshop for RVs. Last time we trimmed the top of a willing builder's -10 and did all the fitting so everyone could see how to approach it. I'd like to do the same thing again, so if anyone would like to have their top trimmed and fit free of charge, please get in touch with me. We won't rivet it in place so if you're not quite ready to have it permanently installed, that's OK. I'm considering the weekend of January 26/27, 2008, but I'm flexible. The closer to Watsonville the better; I have a trailer available if needed to get the parts here and back. As soon as we have a top to fit I'll be back with firm dates and details about the class. Any takers? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Vernon Smith <planesmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the insturmen t panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the smaller gel cells us ed in alarm systems seems like a nice backup battery for the EFIS system. Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top) > From: william(at)gbta.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-Li st: Dual battery> Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600> > --> RV10-List me ssage posted by: "Bill & Tami Britton" > > Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really > like the lo oks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some > pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work > something like t hat into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I > think I'll proba bly go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is > 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions > of the 2 batt eries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4" > larger on eac h side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I > get them.> > Thanks again for all the input,> Bill Britton> > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com>> To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.c om>> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual n.com>> >> > Jesse,> > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend> > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pi ctures of side> > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to> > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on> > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will> > get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a> > RV- 10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to> > my -10.> >> > Best regards,> > Bob Newman> > www.tcwtech.com> >> >> >> >> >> ==================> > > _________________________________________________________________ Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate.- Join i n. www.windowslive.com/smile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_oprsmilewlhmtagline ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com>
Bob, nice. Curious about the materials used for the large shelf and the calculated extra weight. John Jessen 40328 _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob-tcw Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 4:32 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery Here's by dual battery installation. I've built a pair of equipment shelves that attach to the Van's standard battery/ bellcrank center plate. Regarding the batteries. They are both Panasonic LCR SLA type batteries. The main battery is a 28 Amp-hour. The auxilary battery is a 17 amp-hour type. (although a 20 amp-hour is now available in the exact same size). I've used the 28 amp-hour battery in our Glastar for 3 years now and it has worked very well. When I did my search for batteries I was looking for something equivalent to the Concord battery that's been designed to mount in the RV-10 battery tray (Coincidently this is the same size battery mount used in the Glastar). I found that the Panasonic battery is dimmesionally similar to the Concord battery (about 3/4" shorter in lenght, other dimesions the same) and about 75%or less of the cost. Also the Panasonic batteries were available from many distributors. (including Digi-key) Recently I found the 28 amp hour battery for sale in PartsExpress for $74.50 (www.parts-express.com) although I have not tried to order it from them. Panasonic 28 amp-hour (6.50x 4.92x 7.07") model# LC-x1228P Digi-key part # P049-ND $95 Panasonic 17 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-RD1217P Digi-key part #P174-ND $60 Panasonic 20 amp-hour ( 7.12x2.99x6.58" ) model # LC-x1220P Digi-key part #P231-ND $75 Regrads, Bob Newman www.tcwtech.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Subject: Information from Delta Hawk...
Our current work on the DeltaHawk engine is focused on final testing of production level parts and the endurance testing of the engine as a unit. That testing has uncovered a couple of issues that were not evident in some of the previous R&D components. A friend of mine was on the Delta Hawk's waiting list, but he was killed in an unrelated accident recently...he built a Velosity and had recently changed to a Lyca engine from the Delta Hawk he's spec'd. Pete was in the process of completing his fly off on the Lyca but then was killed in a tow plane accident, unrelated to experimentals. I did a note to Delta Hawk after cruising their updated site...actually I'd sort of mentally written them off a couple of years ago. Rip seems to indicate that they are continuing to make some progress...their delivering in 2008, sort of reminds me of them delivering in 2006...I hope they are able to make it happen but doubt that it may be of interest to current RV 10 builders...but thought I'd share it with the group as FYI stuff. >From Rip: As part of moving towards production, we changed our casting supplier from an R&D level source to a production level source. Testing has uncovered some unsatisfactory issues with some parts, and modifications have been made to both design and process to resolve the problems. We believe we are close to resolution, although the issue will not be closed until all testing is complete. The result of these issues is a slip to our schedule, with the exact amount of slippage not known until final testing is complete. We will communicate an update to our plan at that time. We still believe we will be shipping engines in the first half of 2008. Thank you for your interest in DeltaHawk engines. If you have further questions, please let me know. Sincerely, Rip Edmundson DeltaHawk Engines, Inc. Racine, Wisconsin USA rip(at)deltahawkengines.com Patrick S **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Subject: Re: Engine Choices
I sent a note to Delta Hawk recently...and got this reply from Rip...fyi for you all...I asked for an update since it's been a few years since I cruised their site and noticed that they had updated it recently...was wondering if they were any closer to building and shipping...seem it's the maybe answer...but I really hope they do deliver in 2008 to someone... Patrick Our current work on the DeltaHawk engine is focused on final testing of production level parts and the endurance testing of the engine as a unit. That testing has uncovered a couple of issues that were not evident in some of the previous R&D components. As part of moving towards production, we changed our casting supplier from an R&D level source to a production level source. Testing has uncovered some unsatisfactory issues with some parts, and modifications have been made to both design and process to resolve the problems. We believe we are close to resolution, although the issue will not be closed until all testing is complete. The result of these issues is a slip to our schedule, with the exact amount of slippage not known until final testing is complete. We will communicate an update to our plan at that time. We still believe we will be shipping engines in the first half of 2008. Thank you for your interest in DeltaHawk engines. If you have further questions, please let me know. Sincerely, Rip Edmundson DeltaHawk Engines, Inc. Racine, Wisconsin USA rip(at)deltahawkengines.com **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Subject: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines
Marc, I'm assuming you have a similar screen for those of us that have an electrical setup similar to the Subie guys but have the Lycosaur. I'm running dual LSE III's so I am just as dependant as the Subies (but I have redundancy) :-). Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of marcausman Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 3:32 PM Subject: RV10-List: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines Just wanted to post an update that we (Vertical Power) are currently working on support for an additional aux battery and also support for the Subaru engine. If you are installing a second battery on a single bus system, we can monitor and display the voltage of that battery. Additionally, low voltage alarms can be triggered off that battery. We've had good demand from customers who are also installing the Eggenfellner Subaru engine (mostly in -7s and -10s) and we are now working on support for that engine. The system will display coolant temp and gearbox temp. There is also a wiring diagram developed specifically for the unique needs of the Subaru engine (found under support/docs on our web site). You can see a mock up of the Subaru screen here http://www.verticalpower.com/forums/showthread.php?p=727#post727 -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149427#149427 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>
Subject: engine breakin
Date: Nov 30, 2007
He indicated that the diaphragms/seals in the injection unit would have taken a set and that the procedure was to rerun the engine at about 1700 rpm while moving the mixture from full rich to idle cutoff alternately about once every two seconds for about 5- 10 times then shutdown. _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Standley Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:22 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: engine breakin Hi David, Concur on the less than 5 min initial runs. Do you know what he meant by "remove the set" of the fuel injection unit? Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: David McNeill <mailto:dlm46007(at)cox.net> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 5:09 AM Subject: RV10-List: engine breakin FWIW My new (1997) Lycoming O360A4M sat in my study until 2003. I ran it for about a total of 20 minutes on the ground prior to a high speed taxi test by the test pilot to confirm ground handling and brakes. thereafter my Glastar was flown by the test pilot for 1.3 hours at high power settings and landed. There are 440 TT on the engine and it uses one quart between oil changes at 35 hour intervals. I will be talking to my Lycoming rep before first flight in my 10 but in initial discussions he indicated that the ground runs should be short and should be used to "remove the set" of the fuel injection unit. I would expect no more than 30 minutes total ground run over about 6 starts. href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref "http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com>
Subject: Re: Dual battery
Bill, I'll be editing the pictures I have and putting them up on my web site this weekend. I'll post the link when it's ready. _Bob Newman www.tcwtech.com >>> william(at)gbta.net 11/30/2007 9:24 AM >>> Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4" larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I get them. Thanks again for all the input, Bill Britton ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery > > Jesse, > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will > get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a > RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to > my -10. > > Best regards, > Bob Newman > www.tcwtech.com > > > -- > 11/29/2007 11:10 AM > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Hartzell composite prop option
don't forget the increased price tag too! If the price were right I would buy it, but sex appeal is not worth paying too much more to have. When I was at AOPA in Palm Springs last year I spoke with Hartzell and asked if they had any idea of performance for a RV-10, the guy kindly told me there wasn't much there for the price difference.. with all that said.. being Van's already has a Hartzell prop option I can't see why they wouldn't consider adding another prop to the options list, would probably be a win-win scenario doing so. John- take a trip over to Van's and see what you can do. ;-) Pascal ----- Original Message ----- From: John W. Cox To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:24 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Alternate engines I ran into the same dilemma with Hartzell at OSH '07. They will offer the 3 blade composite to us, (now available on the Cirrus G3) only if Richard VanGrunsven offers it as a kit built option through the company. It has all the features of the aluminum Scmitar with less weight, more climb power and less vibration transmission - plus the sex appeal. John Cox - 40600 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dawson-Townsend,Timothy Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:24 AM To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Alternate engines There ARE alternative engines out there that have been specifically developed for aircraft. Some examples: Bombardier 'V' engines SMA diesel One obstacle is getting these folks to recognize kitbuilders as a viable market. I talked to SMA a couple years back and they weren't interested in working with kitbuilders. Thielert has said they may work through kit manufacturers in the future, but nothing yet. Of course, these engines aren't cheap either. SMA was $55,000 for just the engine, but it is nice. Electronic control with mechanical backup. TDT 40025 I love wheelpants! Tim Dawson-Townsend Aurora Flight Sciences tdt(at)aurora.aero 617-500-4812 (office) 617-905-4800 (mobile) http://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R V10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Average climb rates of IO-540
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Hey you guys that are already flying their RV10s with the Lycomings. Once y ou have departed your airport area and start doing your slow long accent to cruise altitude, say a eight to twelve thoousand foot climb, considering y ou are all trying to not stress the engine,(No tail walking), trying to kee p temps managable, what climb rate do you use along with power setting. Thanks, JOhn G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: carlos <carlosh@sec-engr.com>
Subject: Re: bolt/nut torques
Here's a couple more places you can get wrenches from.... 1. www.toolsource.com 2. www.emaxaction.com I purchased a CDI torque wrench from www.emaxaction.com in 7/2006. Detailed Description: Maker: CDI Torque Products(a Snap-On Co.) Model: 2502LDIN (0-250 in lb) 3/8" drive, 0-250 in. lb. Dial Torque Wrench Dual Scale, Inch Pounds and Newton meter Certificate of Calibration traceable to N.I.S.T.. Accuracy +/- 4% of indicated value, from 20-100% of full scale. Shipped in molded plastic box. List Price: $221.26 Emax Price: $140.21 (w/ free shipping) This is still a dial wrench and should still have the range to torque all the hardware on the airplane. I hope so anyways! Carlos in AZ Pascal wrote: > Section 5 page 13 has Torques > > Buy a in-lbs torque wrench through Amazon, or other source, they tend > to be less than HD or Lowes > Comes calibrated and get whatever size you already use with your > tools, 1/4 or 3/8- all the same since you are doing very little torque > on the bolts (like 2 ft lbs on AN3 bolts) > > Pascal > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Bill & Tami Britton > *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com > *Sent:* Friday, November 30, 2007 6:33 AM > *Subject:* RV10-List: bolt/nut torques > > I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start > using more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to > torque different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if > there's any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, > Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from > Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque > wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally, > what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy??? > > Thanks in advance > > Bill Britton > > * > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > > * > > * > > > * > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > -- Carlos Hernandez <carlosh@sec-engr.com> Structural Engineers, LLC 2963 W. Elliot Rd. - Suite 3 Chandler, AZ 85224 Phone: 480.968.8600 Fax: 480.968.8608 www.sec-engr.com CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copyingof this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you havereceived this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Holes in the lid
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Here's a heads up, folks We're installing an Avidyne TAS600 active traffic system. The ideal (for antenna performance) place to mount the top traffic antenna (there is also one on the bottom of the fuselage) is on the high point of the fuselage, over the doors. I emailed Van's to ask about the structural suitability of that location, and was told: > On the C-1001 Cabin Cover there are areas of solid laminate, areas > of 1 > inch thick foam core, and areas of 1/4 inch honeycomb core. > Drilling of > holes (except those called for in the RV-10 manual) through any > area of > solid laminate or 1 inch thick core is not allowed as it will > adversely affect the > structural integrity of the cabin cover. Drilling of holes in the > area of 1/4 inch > core is acceptable so long as the edge of the hole(s) is no closer > than 2 > inches from the edge of the honeycomb. Clearly my proposed location was structurally unacceptable. I infer from this that one should not mount even GPS antennae through the foam core. Ken suggested that we > ...mount the antenna further aft so as to be in the area of > honeycomb core. The cabin cover provides roll-over protection to the > occupants in the event of a crash and is, therefore, very much a > structurally > critical component. We are using an overhead plenum that has provision for a DVD player or whatever right behind the foam core area at the front of the honeycomb area. We will put the top traffic antenna right there with a 101/2" X 13" ground plane of 0.025" Al. The 10 1/2" dimension smaller than specified (minimum 11 3/4"), but our top antenna primarily looks fore and aft, and we are told that it will do. Compromises, compromises. Good thing I've worked with engineers my whole life. We shall see how well we can make it work - I expect to post again on this some years in the future when we're flying ;-) It sure is great to get that kind of support! Prompt, too. BTW, we got fantastic support from Avidyne/Ryan, as well. Good thing- this is a tough install for those of us inexperienced with RF devices and avionics in general. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Average climb rates of IO-540
Date: Nov 30, 2007
From: "Randy DeBauw" <Randy(at)abros.com>
John, my wife and I flew to Reno in September. I was climbing through 13,500ft at 1000 ft per min. Full throttle. I don't remember the manifold psi. I chuckle every time I hear the "this prop climbs better". The 10 climbs just fine and I have the old original style Hartzell. Randy 40006 ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:23 AM Subject: RV10-List: Average climb rates of IO-540 Hey you guys that are already flying their RV10s with the Lycomings. Once you have departed your airport area and start doing your slow long accent to cruise altitude, say a eight to twelve thoousand foot climb, considering you are all trying to not stress the engine,(No tail walking), trying to keep temps managable, what climb rate do you use along with power setting. Thanks, JOhn G. 409 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines
From: "marcausman" <marc(at)verticalpower.com>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Michael, Yes, we are working on a software feature now (the hardware has always supported this) that allows you to display the voltage on a second battery. It's the same display as for the subie but with the standard Lycoming gauges. The aux battery feature is independent of the engine type, really. There are two pins on the VP-200 Control Unit that can be used to measure voltage of external things - in your case the aux battery. There is a document called "Dual Lightspeed - How to wire a dual Lightspeed ignition" in the docs section of our web site here: http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html. It shows how to connect the dual LSE to the mag switch, wire the two batteries and wire the aux battery volt meter. It's basically identical to diagram in the LSE manual, and shows how to include the VP-200. How's the new shop? I hope it has a heater.. [Laughing] -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149763#149763 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net>
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Subject: Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines
Glad to hear you are keeping us old Lycosaurs in mind. :-) And I'm really wishing I would have spent more time getting the furnace installed before now! Michael -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of marcausman Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 6:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Support for Aux Battery and Subaru engines Michael, Yes, we are working on a software feature now (the hardware has always supported this) that allows you to display the voltage on a second battery. It's the same display as for the subie but with the standard Lycoming gauges. The aux battery feature is independent of the engine type, really. There are two pins on the VP-200 Control Unit that can be used to measure voltage of external things - in your case the aux battery. There is a document called "Dual Lightspeed - How to wire a dual Lightspeed ignition" in the docs section of our web site here: http://www.verticalpower.com/documents.html. It shows how to connect the dual LSE to the mag switch, wire the two batteries and wire the aux battery volt meter. It's basically identical to diagram in the LSE manual, and shows how to include the VP-200. How's the new shop? I hope it has a heater.. [Laughing] -------- Marc Ausman http://www.verticalpower.com RV-7 IO-390 Flying Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=149763#149763 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: bolt/nut torques
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Bill, maybe these will help. Note pipe and AN values. Bill S 7a Ark _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill & Tami Britton Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:33 AM Subject: RV10-List: bolt/nut torques I'm getting to the point in my build where I'm going to start using more bolt/nut hardware. Where can I find info on how to torque different sizes of hardware down. Also, I need to know if there's any local places to buy a good torque wrench (Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, etc...) or if I need to order one from Avery/Cleveland, etc.... I don't know how to calibrate a torque wrench so if it's usable out of the box it's better. Finally, what size(s) of wrench do I need to buy??? Thanks in advance Bill Britton ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Vern, this is in my 7 but the same concept probably works in the 10. Battery is suspended directly under the AHRS. The bus right beside it is the Aux Bat which feeds separate switches for the EFIS which allows it to be powered on before/while starting or in an emergency but disconnected from the main bus. The Aux Bat also charges from the main bus during normal operations through a D25 diode. As I remember it, the battery is a Panasonic P212 (7ah) recommended on the AE list. Hope this helps. Bill S 7a finishing _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual battery Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the insturment panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the smaller gel cells used in alarm systems seems like a nice backup battery for the EFIS system. Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top) _____ > From: william(at)gbta.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery > Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600 > > > Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really > like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some > pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work > something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I > think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is > 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions > of the 2 batteries or is it acceptable to just build the tray maybe 1/4" > larger on each side so that I know the batteries will fit later on when I > get them. > > Thanks again for all the input, > Bill Britton > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Newman" <rnewman(at)lutron.com> > To: > Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:46 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery > > > > > > Jesse, > > I have more photo's of the tray design and mounting. This weekend > > I was planning on editing those pictures along with the pictures of side > > step bushings I designed and put them up on my web site. I forgot to > > put my strobe power supply on the tray, but it's suppose to be on > > there. I'll add that and put it up with all the pictures. I will > > get to it Saturday and post a link on Sunday. I've been planning a > > RV-10 section of my web site for the purpose of showing modifications to > > my -10. > > > > Best regards, > > Bob Newman > > www.tcwtech.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > 11/29/2007 11:10 A=========== > > > _____ Your smile counts. The more smiles you share, the more we donate. Join in! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Dual battery
Date: Nov 30, 2007
Forgot this one. It shows the rear and front hold down brackets. On the front, it is just a little plate that is bolted in to hold it in place. Flush rivet on the inside. Bill S 7a _____ From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Smith Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 10:43 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Dual battery Has anyone come up with a way to mount a 7ah battery up under the insturment panel or on the backside of the firewall? One of the smaller gel cells used in alarm systems seems like a nice backup battery for the EFIS system. Vern Smith (#324 doors & cabin top) _____ > From: william(at)gbta.net > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Dual battery > Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2007 08:24:58 -0600 > > > Thanks for the information and pictures on the Battery/trays. Bob, I really > like the looks of that accessories tray that you built. If you get some > pictures of it please let me know. This would be a good time to work > something like that into my build. As for the battery tray dimensions, I > think I'll probably go with PC680s. The length is 7.27" and the width is > 3.11". Do I need to buy the batteries and build the box to exact dimensions


November 24, 2007 - November 30, 2007

RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cu