RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cw
December 11, 2007 - - - - , 20-
efficient
way of dimpling skins. It really works quite well. See attachment.
> Please add your cost/labor savers to the list.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151235#151235
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc03349_451.jpg
>
>
>
>
====================
>
>
>
"http://www.matronics.com/contribution"http://www.matronics.com/contribut
ion
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List"http://www.matronics.com/Na
vig
ator?RV10-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
12/10/2007
2:51 PM
12/10/2007
2:51 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety-Trim Group Buy |
Bob and or Stein: Sign me up for the two axis model. Jay Rowe #40301
jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob-tcw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Group Buy
Dear Fellow RV Builders,
TCW Technologies and SteinAir are pleased to announce a
group buy is now available on our new servo trim controller.
Safety-Trim is an electronic trim servo controller that resolves the
issues with run-away trim conditions plus it provides 2 speed trim
operation as well as greatly simplified switch wiring.
For all the detail please follow this direct link:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=24478
Thank you,
Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
12/10/2007 2:51 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA Pro vs AOA Sport |
As far as I know the only difference is the display, but then I have the 3500 EFIS
so I get the pro display and audio that comes with that system. Drop Rob Hickman
an email ot go to the AFS forum to confirm.The wing kit is identical for
all three versions.
Rick S.
40185
----- Original Message -----
From: "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:12:56 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RV10-List: AOA Pro vs AOA Sport
Group:
is the only difference in the pro vs sport the display?
Doug
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151766#151766
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Question regarding wing root nut plate |
While trying to finish up some of the odd ball QB items remaining to be
done, I ran into a question.
I'm doing the top side nut plates which receive the screws when attaching
the wing root fairing are attached. The forward nut plates all go through
the wing walk doubler and are countersunk. The aft most nut plate #19 hole
is dimpled. I do not see mention of the preparation of the rivet holes for
this nut plate. Should this nut plate be riveted at the same time as the
rest, or is it dealt with later in the plans? If now, are the rivet holes
dimpled and the nut plate dimpled as well or is this prepared differently?
My apologies if I've missed the step in the plans. I've gone through it a
few times already and decided to ask the list for guidance before reading it
again and reviewing the future steps.
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/N690CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety-Trim Group Buy |
In response to Tim's post on a runaway trim issue. When I replaced the
Ray Allen trims recently I had a runaway elevator trim on my first
flight after install. I can attest that a runaway trim is not a fun
deal, even if you're from TX :>} It ran away so fast there was no time
to disconnect it. What happened was I was on climb out and the minute I
hit the up trim the servo went to full stops up. I normally indicate
about 2 or 3 on my elev trim indicator on climb out and it went to 22.
I had to hold full force pushing the stick forward to keep the plane
from trying to go straight up. It took a pretty strong push to hold the
stick forward, in fact I told the person in the right seat to put his
hand on the stick lightly just in case my arm got too tired. The next
issue I was faced with was how the hell am I going to flair this thing
on landing. As I slowed the plane for landing the control forces let up
somewhat, because of the speed reduction, but I still had to keep
forward force on the stick until the last minute and I released a little
to land. Luckily that landing method worked.
I'm not sure a small woman would have been able to hold the forward
force necessary in this situation. Boy I can only imagine what a runaway
aileron trim would take to control.
We ended up replacing the elev trim servo and have had no more problems.
Ray Allen said it wasn't their trim that caused the problem but maybe
how we wired it. I'm not positive what caused it but if you were Ray
Allen what would you say? I think we wired it the same the second time.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Question regarding wing root nut plate |
If you are talking about the upper aft nut plate, I riveted it at the time
and dimpled all the holes.
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Question regarding wing root nut plate
>
> While trying to finish up some of the odd ball QB items remaining to be
> done, I ran into a question.
>
> I'm doing the top side nut plates which receive the screws when attaching
> the wing root fairing are attached. The forward nut plates all go through
> the wing walk doubler and are countersunk. The aft most nut plate #19
> hole
> is dimpled. I do not see mention of the preparation of the rivet holes
> for
> this nut plate. Should this nut plate be riveted at the same time as the
> rest, or is it dealt with later in the plans? If now, are the rivet holes
> dimpled and the nut plate dimpled as well or is this prepared differently?
>
> My apologies if I've missed the step in the plans. I've gone through it a
> few times already and decided to ask the list for guidance before reading
> it
> again and reviewing the future steps.
>
> Best Regards,
> Patrick #40715/N690CT
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Safety-Trim Group Buy |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
What trim servo did you end up with. Was it a replaced Ray Allen?
John J
40328
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Edgerton
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 5:21 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Safety-Trim Group Buy
In response to Tim's post on a runaway trim issue. When I replaced the Ray
Allen trims recently I had a runaway elevator trim on my first flight after
install. I can attest that a runaway trim is not a fun deal, even if you're
from TX :>} It ran away so fast there was no time to disconnect it. What
happened was I was on climb out and the minute I hit the up trim the servo
went to full stops up. I normally indicate about 2 or 3 on my elev trim
indicator on climb out and it went to 22.
I had to hold full force pushing the stick forward to keep the plane from
trying to go straight up. It took a pretty strong push to hold the stick
forward, in fact I told the person in the right seat to put his hand on the
stick lightly just in case my arm got too tired. The next issue I was faced
with was how the hell am I going to flair this thing on landing. As I slowed
the plane for landing the control forces let up somewhat, because of the
speed reduction, but I still had to keep forward force on the stick until
the last minute and I released a little to land. Luckily that landing method
worked.
I'm not sure a small woman would have been able to hold the forward force
necessary in this situation. Boy I can only imagine what a runaway aileron
trim would take to control.
We ended up replacing the elev trim servo and have had no more problems. Ray
Allen said it wasn't their trim that caused the problem but maybe how we
wired it. I'm not positive what caused it but if you were Ray Allen what
would you say? I think we wired it the same the second time.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Trying to keep the belly clean - Air/Oil Separator |
| From: | "tintopranch" <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a new Mattituck 540 and had the same issue. I installed Van's air/oil seperator
and have been very happy with the results. I have about 45hrs on the
seperator and 95 on the engine so far. I had a wolf seperator on my bonanza
for years with good results. I have noticed that the oil does seem to be more
dirty with the seperator than without. But since I can run more oil in the engine
and I change the oil every 50hrs I do not see a problem with it.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=151870#151870
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Question regarding wing root nut plate |
Yup. That's the one. Thanks Dave!
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715/N690CT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 5:32 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Question regarding wing root nut plate
If you are talking about the upper aft nut plate, I riveted it at the time
and dimpled all the holes.
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 6:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Question regarding wing root nut plate
>
> While trying to finish up some of the odd ball QB items remaining to be
> done, I ran into a question.
>
> I'm doing the top side nut plates which receive the screws when attaching
> the wing root fairing are attached. The forward nut plates all go through
> the wing walk doubler and are countersunk. The aft most nut plate #19
> hole
> is dimpled. I do not see mention of the preparation of the rivet holes
> for
> this nut plate. Should this nut plate be riveted at the same time as the
> rest, or is it dealt with later in the plans? If now, are the rivet holes
> dimpled and the nut plate dimpled as well or is this prepared differently?
>
> My apologies if I've missed the step in the plans. I've gone through it a
> few times already and decided to ask the list for guidance before reading
> it
> again and reviewing the future steps.
>
> Best Regards,
> Patrick #40715/N690CT
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
Need advice on wire runs in the engine area. Is it okay to run the
CHT/EGT wires in the same bundle as the lower plug wires as they run
aft? How does one attach that bundle/bundles----with Adel clamps to a
rocker cover screw, or something else? Can all the CHT/EGT lines run
thru the firewall at the same location? Any and all advice/pictures
welcomed. Jay Rowe (about to finish FWF) 40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Jay, I'm not as far on my -10, However, In our Glastar all CHT and
EGT cables are bundled together with the lower spark plug wires and run
aft together to the magnetos, then the cht/egt bundle runs with some
other wires together thru the firewall. 8 years running with no
issues.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Rowe
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 9:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FWF wiring
Need advice on wire runs in the engine area. Is it okay to run the
CHT/EGT wires in the same bundle as the lower plug wires as they run
aft? How does one attach that bundle/bundles----with Adel clamps to a
rocker cover screw, or something else? Can all the CHT/EGT lines run
thru the firewall at the same location? Any and all advice/pictures
welcomed. Jay Rowe (about to finish FWF) 40301
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jay Rowe" <jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com> |
Thanks Bob, I'll follow your lead. Jay
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob-tcw
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 10:11 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: FWF wiring
Jay, I'm not as far on my -10, However, In our Glastar all CHT
and EGT cables are bundled together with the lower spark plug wires and
run aft together to the magnetos, then the cht/egt bundle runs with some
other wires together thru the firewall. 8 years running with no
issues.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jay Rowe
To: RV10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 9:43 PM
Subject: RV10-List: FWF wiring
Need advice on wire runs in the engine area. Is it okay to run
the CHT/EGT wires in the same bundle as the lower plug wires as they run
aft? How does one attach that bundle/bundles----with Adel clamps to a
rocker cover screw, or something else? Can all the CHT/EGT lines run
thru the firewall at the same location? Any and all advice/pictures
welcomed. Jay Rowe (about to finish FWF) 40301
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
12/12/2007 11:29 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I'm just finishing up my tailcone with wings coming in January.
For those that have use a NACA vent to provide an air inlet for the overhead
console, would you recommend installing them at this stage. My assumption
is that it would be much easy cutting the holes prior to riveting the
tailcone together.
My second question is has there been consensus on the best local to place
the vents yet?
I'm also just starting to start looking at NACA sources. Van's has one for
$6.25 and ACS has several, but all are over $30. I was caught off guard
by the price differences. There can't be that much difference in quality.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety-Trim Group BuySafety-Trim Group Buy |
Yes it was a replacement from Ray Allen.
Wayne Edgerton N602WT
What trim servo did you end up with. Was it a replaced Ray Allen?
John J
40328
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Bob:
I bought the ones from Vans'. Order them when you need something else. I
waited until I had the top on to cut the holes. Made up a template of
the NACA hole before I installed the forward vents. Then just traced it
on the skin and used a nibbler to remove the majority of the aluminum.
File to do the rest. I placed the front of the vent 10 inches behind the
rivet line of the bulkhead, centered in between the longerons. No
science involved. On accuracy's web site there is a reference to them
working well. You can wait until later to install them as the top skin
will be off until you are ready.
I have more pics if you need them.
Fred Williams
day job getting in the way of building.
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Im just finishing up my tailcone with wings coming in January.
>
> For those that have use a NACA vent to provide an air inlet for the
> overhead console, would you recommend installing them at this stage.
> My assumption is that it would be much easy cutting the holes prior to
> riveting the tailcone together.
>
> My second question is has there been consensus on the best local to
> place the vents yet?
>
> Im also just starting to start looking at NACA sources. Vans has one
> for $6.25 and ACS has several, but all are over $30. I was caught off
> guard by the price differences. There cant be that much difference in
> quality.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> #40684
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Thanks for the quick response. The picture was very helpful.
I'm assuming that the tray attached to the bulkhead is for your ahrs?
Out of curiosity, what's installed below the naca vent on the left side?
I know the feeling about your day job getting in your way. I took today
and tomorrow off to work on the tailcone and I've already received a half
dozen calls from the office. Time to unplug the phone in the garage. :^)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,
M.D.
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA Vents
Bob:
I bought the ones from Vans'. Order them when you need something else. I
waited until I had the top on to cut the holes. Made up a template of the
NACA hole before I installed the forward vents. Then just traced it on the
skin and used a nibbler to remove the majority of the aluminum.
File to do the rest. I placed the front of the vent 10 inches behind the
rivet line of the bulkhead, centered in between the longerons. No science
involved. On accuracy's web site there is a reference to them working well.
You can wait until later to install them as the top skin will be off until
you are ready.
I have more pics if you need them.
Fred Williams
day job getting in the way of building.
Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I'm just finishing up my tailcone with wings coming in January.
>
> For those that have use a NACA vent to provide an air inlet for the
> overhead console, would you recommend installing them at this stage.
> My assumption is that it would be much easy cutting the holes prior to
> riveting the tailcone together.
>
> My second question is has there been consensus on the best local to
> place the vents yet?
>
> I'm also just starting to start looking at NACA sources. Van's has one
> for $6.25 and ACS has several, but all are over $30. I was caught off
> guard by the price differences. There can't be that much difference in
> quality.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> #40684
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
>
>
__________ NOD32 2721 (20071213) Information __________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
Bob:
It's the power supply for the strobes. Whelen (sp?) . Vans has a
plate that will let you attach it to the stringers.
Dr Fred ( in between patients) Did get the brake parts painted this am.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Sounds like a re-alignment of priorities...so irresponsible for a grown man
.
In between teeth, and wishing I was a kid again with a really big expense a
ccount.
John> From: rv(at)thelefflers.com> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: RE: R
V10-List: NACA Vents> Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 10:46:24 -0500> > --> RV10-Lis
t message posted by: "Bob Leffler" > > Thanks for the q
uick response. The picture was very helpful.> > I'm assuming that the tray
attached to the bulkhead is for your ahrs?> > Out of curiosity, what's inst
alled below the naca vent on the left side?> > I know the feeling about you
r day job getting in your way. I took today> and tomorrow off to work on th
e tailcone and I've already received a half> dozen calls from the office. T
ime to unplug the phone in the garage. :^)> > -----Original Message-----> F
rom: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred Williams,> M.D.> Sent: Thursday, December 1
3, 2007 9:38 AM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject: Re: RV10-List: NACA
Vents> > Bob:> > I bought the ones from Vans'. Order them when you need som
ething else. I> waited until I had the top on to cut the holes. Made up a t
emplate of the> NACA hole before I installed the forward vents. Then just t
raced it on the> skin and used a nibbler to remove the majority of the alum
inum. > File to do the rest. I placed the front of the vent 10 inches behin
d the> rivet line of the bulkhead, centered in between the longerons. No sc
ience> involved. On accuracy's web site there is a reference to them workin
g well.> You can wait until later to install them as the top skin will be o
ff until> you are ready.> > I have more pics if you need them.> > Fred Will
iams> > day job getting in the way of building.> > > Bob Leffler wrote:> >>
> I'm just finishing up my tailcone with wings coming in January.> >> > Fo
r those that have use a NACA vent to provide an air inlet for the > > overh
ead console, would you recommend installing them at this stage.> > My assum
ption is that it would be much easy cutting the holes prior to > > riveting
the tailcone together.> >> > My second question is has there been consensu
s on the best local to > > place the vents yet?> >> > I'm also just startin
g to start looking at NACA sources. Van's has one > > for $6.25 and ACS has
several, but all are over $30. I was caught off > > guard by the price dif
ferences. There can't be that much difference in > > quality.> >> > Thanks,
> >> > Bob> >> > #40684> >> > *> >> >> > *> > -----------------------------
-----------------------------------------> > --> >> > > > > > > __________
================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
Bob,
I am on the road so this is the only photo I have available. We
placed ours just behind the baggage bulkhead. Again no science, just the
shortest distance and it's the same place one of the very first OH
console installers placed his with good results.
We waited till late in the build to add the vents but well before
the canopy was attached. Wait... The canopy still isn't attached. Darn.
If you want to see some detail of our OH console visit:
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv-10/console.htm
Good Luck,
Robin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Van's cowl vs James cowl |
I am wondering whether a few builders can comment on the results that they
have had with the James' cowl.
What I am looking at is the overall quality of the James product vs Van's c
owl or compared to other Van's fiberglass products.
I am not so interested in the speed improvement debate, but quality and whe
ther by using James made more work for the builder because Van's made the F
W package for the Van's cowl.
Also, I believe if I have energy left at the end of my build that I will be
doing a plenum for the engine and I might be interested in molding it for
others and the James has those nice intake rings.
A nice plenum made of 50/50 carbon/kevlar with high temp resin would look c
ool and I could realistically do that...energy remaining.
What did van's credit for not taking the cowl with the finishing kit?
Thanks,
John G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BELTEDAIR(at)aol.com |
Jim there are two drives of ours on Barnstormers. One is 1000. the other 2600
with the engine, both are from good people The one in Texas was sold by his
widow and the guy removed the engine and drive for a Lycoming. The other
belonged to a fellow who died of a heart attack and his son is selling it for
1000.00 Go to Barnstormers.com, punch in search then enter RV6 and they come up.
Jess
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
How much does the overhead console cost bare? When you're all done
installing it with vents and eyeball lights how much does that run?
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 4:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: NACA Vents
I'm just finishing up my tailcone with wings coming in January.
For those that have use a NACA vent to provide an air inlet for the overhead
console, would you recommend installing them at this stage. My assumption
is that it would be much easy cutting the holes prior to riveting the
tailcone together.
My second question is has there been consensus on the best local to place
the vents yet?
I'm also just starting to start looking at NACA sources. Van's has one for
$6.25 and ACS has several, but all are over $30. I was caught off guard
by the price differences. There can't be that much difference in quality.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Westfall" <rv10(at)sinkrate.com> |
| Subject: | Van's cowl vs James cowl |
I asked Van's about the prices a while back (of their cowl) of course I just
deleted it off my spreadsheet cause I decided to stick with the stock cowl.
I am pretty sure it was right at $800 for the cowl and spinner parts. The
tough sell is the spinner kit. If you are going with the hartzell the
larger spinner kit is more than the James Cowl itself.
I haven't heard any reports about improved speed, cooling, or what have you.
Come to think of it I haven't heard any reports about the James Cowl at all!
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Van's cowl vs James cowl
I am wondering whether a few builders can comment on the results that they
have had with the James' cowl.
What I am looking at is the overall quality of the James product vs Van's
cowl or compared to other Van's fiberglass products.
I am not so interested in the speed improvement debate, but quality and
whether by using James made more work for the builder because Van's made the
FW package for the Van's cowl.
Also, I believe if I have energy left at the end of my build that I will be
doing a plenum for the engine and I might be interested in molding it for
others and the James has those nice intake rings.
A nice plenum made of 50/50 carbon/kevlar with high temp resin would look
cool and I could realistically do that...energy remaining.
What did van's credit for not taking the cowl with the finishing kit?
Thanks,
John G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Van's cowl vs James cowl |
| From: | "Eric_Kallio" <scout019(at)msn.com> |
I just received my finish kit estimate yesterday for the same type of setup. I
removed the cowl for a credit of $793.34 for the upper and lower halves and the
inlets. For the removal of the entire spinner kit the credit was $120.00. Hope
this helps.
Eric Kallio
40518...Canopy
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152050#152050
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
I don't have all the pricing yet.
To me cost is secondary. My wife requires a ton of blowing air in her face
when she flies. If installing an overhead vent is what it takes, then
that's a mod that will be done regardless of price. I almost had to
install air conditioning, but she has since relented on that requirement.
There two methods. Several have used a Chevy SUV overhead console or you
can get one from Accuracy Avionics.
http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 6:24 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: NACA Vents
How much does the overhead console cost bare? When you're all done
installing it with vents and eyeball lights how much does that run?
-Ben
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 4:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: NACA Vents
I'm just finishing up my tailcone with wings coming in January.
For those that have use a NACA vent to provide an air inlet for the overhead
console, would you recommend installing them at this stage. My assumption
is that it would be much easy cutting the holes prior to riveting the
tailcone together.
My second question is has there been consensus on the best local to place
the vents yet?
I'm also just starting to start looking at NACA sources. Van's has one for
$6.25 and ACS has several, but all are over $30. I was caught off guard
by the price differences. There can't be that much difference in quality.
Thanks,
Bob
#40684
__________ NOD32 2722 (20071214) Information __________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Height of Fuse stand |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Group:
Roughly, how high off the ground should I make the stand for the QB fuse.
Think I read that the bottom of the fuse is ~27 inches from the ground with wheels
installed so is that about right height. I'm copying the stand that I've
seen attributed to Rick S.
I'm 6'5" so don't want it too low to the ground. Knees don't bend quite as well
as they used to :)
Doug
QB fuse and wings here Monday.....
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152063#152063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Alternative engines |
Here is an interesting read on the alternative engine subject.
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/article2.html
Dave Leikam
40496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
| Subject: | Alternative engines |
Very interesting read ... thanks for posting.
Hope you don't mind but I'm going to post a link to the article on a couple
of other boards ...
g
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternative engines
Here is an interesting read on the alternative engine subject.
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/article2.html
Dave Leikam
40496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Wright <flywrights(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Height of Fuse stand |
no no no. You want something low to the ground while you work on it, unless you
plan to skip to the gear install first. You're going to be climbing in and out
a whole lot and leaning over a bunch before it's up on gear. How tall are
you???!
I used two pallets fastened together with casters on the bottom, and it was still
a little tall. I put a carpet scrap between the pallets and the fuse.
BTW, If you plan to skip to the gear install, make sure you've done any soundproofing
to the subfloor and floor pans under the gear leg brackets. I and others
had to remove them to get the subfloor work done, which in itself involves
a lot of bending and leaning, so you want a short stand anyway.
Rob Wright
#392
buildus interruptus since May, but still here!
----- Original Message ----
From: n277dl <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:15:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Height of Fuse stand
Group:
Roughly, how high off the ground should I make the stand for the QB fuse. Think
I read that the bottom of the fuse is ~27 inches from the ground with wheels
installed so is that about right height. I'm copying the stand that I've seen
attributed to Rick S.
I'm 6'5" so don't want it too low to the ground. Knees don't bend quite as well
as they used to :)
Doug
QB fuse and wings here Monday.....
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152063#152063
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
| Subject: | Alternative engines |
That's a really interesting article. Do you know when it was written?
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 9:25 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Alternative engines
Here is an interesting read on the alternative engine subject.
http://www.prime-mover.org/Engines/GArticles/article2.html
Dave Leikam
40496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
I spent roughly $1500. Came with all the lights and vents. Here's a web
site.
accuracyavionics
Dr Fred.
Ben Westfall wrote:
>
> How much does the overhead console cost bare? When youre all done
> installing it with vents and eyeball lights how much does that run?
>
> -Ben
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Leffler
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 13, 2007 4:14 AM
> *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: NACA Vents
>
> Im just finishing up my tailcone with wings coming in January.
>
> For those that have use a NACA vent to provide an air inlet for the
> overhead console, would you recommend installing them at this stage.
> My assumption is that it would be much easy cutting the holes prior to
> riveting the tailcone together.
>
> My second question is has there been consensus on the best local to
> place the vents yet?
>
> Im also just starting to start looking at NACA sources. Vans has one
> for $6.25 and ACS has several, but all are over $30. I was caught off
> guard by the price differences. There cant be that much difference in
> quality.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> #40684
>
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "orchidman" <gary(at)wingscc.com> |
drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote:
> I spent roughly $1500. Came with all the lights and vents.
>
I believe that price is with them installing all the vents, lights etc. I got
just the overhead with all the parts and it came to $1100 something. I am at
work and don't have the exact amount at hand. I think the overhead unit without
the lights and vents is just under $700.
--------
Gary Blankenbiller
RV10 - # 40674
Fuselage SB
(N410GB reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152115#152115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | heavy wing with fairings |
Someone locally is flying his RV-10 and noticed the following I thought
I would challenge the fliers with:
What I noticed is at faster speeds the heavy right wing is more
noticeable. Need to figure out what is causing the heavy wing as it
relates to the fairings. Any suggestions? Slower speeds not
noticeable.
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PILOTDDS(at)AOL.COM |
There was an earlier post asking about rv-10s with the james cowl.Is anybody
out there actualy flying a 10 with one.How much is that special hartzel
spinner kit?
**************************************
See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: heavy wing with fairings |
| From: | "tintopranch" <mark_sutherland(at)yahoo.com> |
I had a similar issue and agree with Tim. Make sure he is flying with the ball
centered. I is most likely a rudder trim issue which is very common on RVs.
Spruce sells some plastic ones you stick on with double sided tape. Get two
so you can cut them down for the right amount of trim.
--------
MARK SUTHERLAND
RV-10 40292
Flying since June 07
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152127#152127
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Rosen <LarryRosen(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Height of Fuse stand |
Look at William Curtis' web site. He has some fuselage stand options
posted.
<http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/fusestand/index.html>
My fuselage stand is just 2 2x4s with plywood on top, covered with
carpet that run under the wing spar. I then have a 2x4 running parallel
to the fuse on each side with casters (total of 4 casters). I support
the tail with a plastic crate with foam on top.
Larry Rosen
#356
Robert Wright wrote:
> no no no. You want something low to the ground while you work on it,
> unless you plan to skip to the gear install first. You're going to be
> climbing in and out a whole lot and leaning over a bunch before it's
> up on gear. How tall are you???!
>
> I used two pallets fastened together with casters on the bottom, and
> it was still a little tall. I put a carpet scrap between the pallets
> and the fuse.
>
> BTW, If you plan to skip to the gear install, make sure you've done
> any soundproofing to the subfloor and floor pans under the gear leg
> brackets. I and others had to remove them to get the subfloor work
> done, which in itself involves a lot of bending and leaning, so you
> want a short stand anyway.
>
> Rob Wright
> #392
> buildus interruptus since May, but still here!
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: n277dl <dljinia(at)yahoo.com>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:15:09 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Height of Fuse stand
>
> >
>
> Group:
> Roughly, how high off the ground should I make the stand for the QB
> fuse. Think I read that the bottom of the fuse is ~27 inches from the
> ground with wheels installed so is that about right height. I'm
> copying the stand that I've seen attributed to Rick S.
>
> I'm 6'5" so don't want it too low to the ground. Knees don't bend
> quite as well as they used to :)
>
> Doug
> QB fuse and wings here Monday.....
>
> --------
> Doug
> RV7A flying ~500hrs
>
>
> Read this topic
>
>
> Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Illuminated Switches |
Hi
As I plan my panel, I thought it would be nice to use illuminated switches
in some applications. I came across some MilSpec switches but I suspect they
would be very expensive.
Does anyone have a good source for switches that would be appropriate for
panel use (other than the typical toggle switches).
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (Resereved)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Illuminated Switches |
| From: | "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
Look at the Honeywell AML available from Stein for $61.50, and probably others.
LED lighted, and can be color coded and/or engraved. Pricey, but very nice.
Jim Berry
40482
Finishing forever
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152160#152160
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Height of Fuse stand |
| From: | "jim berry" <jimberry(at)qwest.net> |
I prefer to work standing up, rather than be kneeling or bent over. My stand was
48" x48" x 24" high, and on casters. The low point of my fuselage on the gear
and wheels is 27.5" above the ground. At your height if you made a stand 28-29"
high it would simplify attaching the gear and wheels, and might be a more
comfortable working height.
Jim Berry
40482
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152163#152163
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sam Marlow <sam(at)fr8dog.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Illuminated Switches |
I used the small AML 34's my panel. Downside is there about $50.00 each
with engraving.
RV10 panel
Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Hi
>
>
>
> As I plan my panel, I thought it would be nice to use illuminated
> switches in some applications. I came across some MilSpec switches but
> I suspect they would be very expensive.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have a good source for switches that would be appropriate
> for panel use (other than the typical toggle switches).
>
>
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
> Les Kearney
>
> #40643
>
> C-GCWZ (Resereved)
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Parlow <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | AOA in your RV-10? |
Who's using AOA in their RV-10?
See: http://www.advanced-flight-systems.com/Products/AOA/aoa.html
Blue Mountain has integrated AFS's software into EFIS/one Gen 3, but I don'
t have the wing kit installed.
Is the "Wing Kit A" that AFS sells worth the $400 or could made easily?
Does anyone have good pictures of the hardware included in "Wing Kit A"?
ERic--
RV-10, 40014
N104EP
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines |
| From: | Dj Merrill <deej(at)deej.net> |
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Go ahead and post it where ever you like, I found the article by
> chance while Googling around. I have no idea when it was written, but
> I assume it is not too old. It references Toyota's interest in
> building a small 4 seat GA airplane, and I remember hearing about that
> several years ago.
I looked at the page info in Firefox (Tools, Page Info menu under
Linux), and it says this page was last modified on Nov 4, 1997. No idea
if that is really the correct date it was published, though. The
author's info is at the bottom of the web page, so I suppose we could
contact him and see...
It would be interesting to find out about the Toyota research project.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Height of Fuse stand |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Doug,
I've been through a couple iterations of the fuselage stand and you can see mine
and some others here:
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/fusestand/index.html
My stand has two heights. Even at 6'5", I don't think you want a stand at full
height to work on the fuse. My lower height has the fuse belly 12" off the ground.
At this lower height, I still need a step to get in and work on the top.
The drawing at the above link is the most update stand that I think works best.
I'll add the updated pictures shortly.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> Group:
> Roughly, how high off the ground should I make the stand for the QB fuse.
Think I read that the bottom of the fuse is ~27 inches from the ground with
wheels installed so is that about right height. I'm copying the stand that I've
seen attributed to Rick S.
>
> I'm 6'5" so don't want it too low to the ground. Knees don't bend quite as well
as they used to :)
>
> Doug
> QB fuse and wings here Monday.....
>
> --------
> Doug
> RV7A flying ~500hrs
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152063#152063
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Height of Fuse stand |
| From: | "n277dl" <dljinia(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for the input folks. This helps a lot. I'll leave it a little flexible,
keep it simple and play with a couple heights and see what works for my size.
Thanks again. Traveling to Gatlinburg, TN this weekend and will hopefully get
re-started early next week.
Doug
--------
Doug
RV7A flying ~500hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152183#152183
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New GPS & WX |
| From: | darnpilot(at)aol.com |
http://www.bushnell.com/gps/
This is a new Busnell GPS that shows graphical weather and XM Radio, all for $16.95/month.?
While certainly not a full up aviation GPS nor Aviation Weather,
it is a nice little GPS with some neat features, it will show the weather ahead...our
main use as pilots.? The addition of XM radio makes it even better.
I have a 496, but at nearly $60.00/month for WX and radio it is hardly a bargain.?
Has anyone investigated this new device and its capabilities??
TIA
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines |
In a message dated 12/14/2007 1:46:17 PM Central Standard Time,
deej(at)deej.net writes:
It would be interesting to find out about the Toyota research project.
Toyota said about 4 years ago the stopped the 4 place/engine to concentrate
on their jet...which was on show at the last two KOSH's...
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Illuminated Switches |
Hi Jim
It looks like I will be using at AML's. The milspec switches I found were
$400+ each and had some very nice switch guards. I would have been tempted
to use at least one of them but for my bus master but they couldn't handle
the amperage I need. Damn!
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of jim berry
Sent: December-14-07 11:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Illuminated Switches
Look at the Honeywell AML available from Stein for $61.50, and probably
others. LED lighted, and can be color coded and/or engraved. Pricey, but
very nice.
Jim Berry
40482
Finishing forever
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152160#152160
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Basic fiberglass and access covers $695
Fiberglass, air vents, lights and switches (items un-installed) $1,195
Fiberglass, air vents, lights and switches (items installed) $1,495
Fiberglass, air vents, lights, switches and DVD player (items un-installed) $1,575
Fiberglass, air vents, lights, switches and DVD player (items installed) $1,875
http://www.accuracyavionics.com/v1/fiberglassoptions.html
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
>
> drfred(at)suddenlinkmail. wrote:
> > I spent roughly $1500. Came with all the lights and vents.
> >
>
> I believe that price is with them installing all the vents, lights etc. I got
just the overhead with all the parts and it came to $1100 something. I am at
work and don't have the exact amount at hand. I think the overhead unit without
the lights and vents is just under $700.
>
> --------
> Gary Blankenbiller
> RV10 - # 40674
> Fuselage SB
> (N410GB reserved)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152115#152115
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
You sure that was Toyota? I haven't seen a Toyota jet at OSH, not that I see everything each year. Toyota had a POC piston aircraft they were flying for a while but I think they abandoned it. http://www.avweb.com/news/atis/181827-1.html
Honda on the other hand has had a jet at OSH for the past few years. They have
since decided to manufacturer this jet in Greensboro, NC.
http://world.honda.com/HondaJet/
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> In a message dated 12/14/2007 1:46:17 PM Central Standard Time,
> deej(at)deej.net writes:
>
> It would be interesting to find out about the Toyota research project.
>
>
> Toyota said about 4 years ago the stopped the 4 place/engine to concentrate
> on their jet...which was on show at the last two KOSH's...
>
>
>
> **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
> (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative engines |
Sorry Jesse, it's the Honda jet, although I've read that Toyota also has one
under development which is why the dropped their GA program but who knows if
anything is accurate you read these days...including my missive...
P
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian
"FAA". Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You
have to have permission to spit in the air down here.
As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far
is a fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial
wiring to setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if
you have it wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it
changed direction. The flaps allow you to set up, down and two
intermediate positions if you have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen
position sensor), so if you want up, 0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15
and 30, that's no problem. I don't think they have implemented the
trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be possible to
automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back up in
slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an
open pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now
debugging the reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic
mode switching (we are the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP),
but the GPS info from the 430 is already on there to do some of the
mode switching. Each device can be set up to come on automatically in
any mode, including preflight, so you could have it turn on a Garmin
496 during preflight to go ahead and start downloading the weather.
Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the
ease of installation, the great documentation and the quick and
thorough tech support in getting things running. I just wish all of
the possibilities were already implemented in the software. That will
come.
For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one
of their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up
the good work.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
That's great to hear Jesse -
I'm also going to go with the VP setup, and Marc Ausman actually came to
my house last Tuesday (ok...he was already coming to LA, I'm not that
special!) and we went over some of the stuff, and he brought me a dummy
CU box and display faceplate to use for panel planning (refundable
deposit required). Overall, I am incredibly impressed with what he's
doing, and he's a really nice knowledgeable fella as well! He actually
had some great suggestions for my aircraft that weren't related to his
system as well. He's got a RV-7 that he built, so he can kinda relate.
Anyway, more to come!
cj
#40410
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian
"FAA". Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You
have to have permission to spit in the air down here.
As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far is
a fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial wiring to
setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if you have it
wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it changed
direction. The flaps allow you to set up, down and two intermediate
positions if you have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen position
sensor), so if you want up, 0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15 and 30,
that's no problem. I don't think they have implemented the trim
sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be possible to automatically
slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back up in slow flight and
pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for pumps from wingtip
tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an open pin, run a wire
and set it up in the menu. They are right now debugging the reading
from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic mode switching (we are the
first ones running on a Dynon with the VP), but the GPS info from the
430 is already on there to do some of the mode switching. Each device
can be set up to come on automatically in any mode, including preflight,
so you could have it turn on a Garmin 496 during preflight to go ahead
and start downloading the weather.
Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the
ease of installation, the great documentation and the quick and thorough
tech support in getting things running. I just wish all of the
possibilities were already implemented in the software. That will come.
For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one of
their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up the
good work.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
Any thoughts as to cost of the VP-200 vs conventional breakers and
somebody else's engine monitor/analyzer?
On Dec 14, 2007 3:12 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian "FAA".
> Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You have to have
> permission to spit in the air down here.
>
> As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
> hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far is a
> fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial wiring to
> setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if you have it
> wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it changed direction.
> The flaps allow you to set up, down and two intermediate positions if you
> have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen position sensor), so if you want up,
> 0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15 and 30, that's no problem. I don't think
> they have implemented the trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be
> possible to automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back
> up in slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
> pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an open
> pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now debugging the
> reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic mode switching (we are
> the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP), but the GPS info from the
> 430 is already on there to do some of the mode switching. Each device can
> be set up to come on automatically in any mode, including preflight, so you
> could have it turn on a Garmin 496 during preflight to go ahead and start
> downloading the weather.
>
> Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the ease of
> installation, the great documentation and the quick and thorough tech
> support in getting things running. I just wish all of the possibilities
> were already implemented in the software. That will come.
>
> For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one of
> their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up the good
> work.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Alternative engines |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The article appears to be about 10 years old. Cirrus and Thielert have
skewed all the basis. The Continental Diesel has been abandoned. The
Orenda goes way back with Lancairs. The Zoche Diesel is still a research
project and Mooney is long out of this Alternate Engine hunt.
It was fun reading.
John Cox
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dj Merrill
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Alternative engines
Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> Go ahead and post it where ever you like, I found the article by
> chance while Googling around. I have no idea when it was written, but
> I assume it is not too old. It references Toyota's interest in
> building a small 4 seat GA airplane, and I remember hearing about that
> several years ago.
I looked at the page info in Firefox (Tools, Page Info menu under
Linux), and it says this page was last modified on Nov 4, 1997. No idea
if that is really the correct date it was published, though. The
author's info is at the bottom of the web page, so I suppose we could
contact him and see...
It would be interesting to find out about the Toyota research
project.
-Dj
--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV
Glastar Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ
http://deej.net/sportsman/
"Many things that are unexplainable happen during the construction of an
airplane." --Dave Prizio, 30 Aug 2005
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Hmmm
I have a couple of long conversations with Marc Ausman of Vertical Power
over the past couple of weeks. I have decided to use their product after
seeing it at KOSH and reading the online docs.
I like the idea of eliminating the traditional bus / breaker arrangement for
something that is a more sophisticated. One of the nice things about their
system is that it builds in capabilities that would otherwise require
integration of other boxes. Things like trim sensitivity, landing light wig
wags, door alarms / annuciators / low voltage warnings / audible alarms /
etc.
If VP's post sales support is even half of what the pre-sales support is
like, they will be a great company to deal with.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: December-14-07 3:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian "FAA".
Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You have to have
permission to spit in the air down here.
As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far is a
fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial wiring to
setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if you have it
wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it changed direction.
The flaps allow you to set up, down and two intermediate positions if you
have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen position sensor), so if you want up,
0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15 and 30, that's no problem. I don't think
they have implemented the trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be
possible to automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back
up in slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an open
pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now debugging the
reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic mode switching (we are
the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP), but the GPS info from the
430 is already on there to do some of the mode switching. Each device can
be set up to come on automatically in any mode, including preflight, so you
could have it turn on a Garmin 496 during preflight to go ahead and start
downloading the weather.
Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the ease of
installation, the great documentation and the quick and thorough tech
support in getting things running. I just wish all of the possibilities
were already implemented in the software. That will come.
For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one of
their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up the good
work.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Illuminated Switches |
| From: | dougpflyrv(at)aol.com |
HERE ARE SOME ROCKER SWITCHES..........
DP
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/Categories.aspx?Category=38940ec0-b260-4e9f-a23c-b80ff8e89c67
-----Original Message-----
From: Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca>
Sent: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 4:39 pm
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Illuminated Switches
Hi Ted
?
Those are very nice switches. Much nicer
than the usual throw switches. Thanks for the link.
?
Cheers
?
Les
?
PS: Did I see your plane in a recent copy
of COPA?. Where are you based?
?
?
From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On
Behalf Of Ted French
Sent: December-14-07 2:34 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List:
Illuminated Switches
?
Les
?
See:? http://www.action-electronics.com/pdf/gcsw16.pdf
?
Look at the one
at the bottom of this page.? The light is independant of the switch. I
wired mine so the panel lights bring it on fairly dim, but when switched on,
they go full bright. Also available from Stein with white light instead of
green.
?
See my panel
at:? http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/Panel_Feb_26_2007.jpg
?
Do
Not Archive
Ted
French C-FXCS
RV-10?
Flying
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com]On
Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: December 14, 2007 8:34 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Illuminated
Switches
Hi
?
As I plan my panel, I thought it would be
nice to use illuminated switches in some applications. I came across some
MilSpec switches but I suspect they would be very expensive.?
?
Does anyone have a good source for
switches that would be appropriate for panel use (other than the typical toggle
switches).
?
Cheers
?
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (Resereved)
?
?
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
?
?
?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
I am planning to use the VP200 in my plane as well. It is more
expensive than going with traditional breakers and switches, but there
are several upsides. One of which is that the system continues to
improve through software updates as previously mentioned.
I ordered the VP200 back at Oshkosh thinking I would be further along
by now. It really does look cool sitting on my desk. :-)
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Fuselage - www.rvten.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick ONeill" <poneill(at)irealms.com> |
Does the VP-200 include the engine monitor? I thought it simply displayed
data transmitted by an owner provided engine monitor (JPI, etc.).
Best Regards,
Patrick #40715 / N690CT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
Any thoughts as to cost of the VP-200 vs conventional breakers and
somebody else's engine monitor/analyzer?
On Dec 14, 2007 3:12 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian
"FAA".
> Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You have to
have
> permission to spit in the air down here.
>
> As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
> hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far is a
> fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial wiring to
> setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if you have it
> wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it changed
direction.
> The flaps allow you to set up, down and two intermediate positions if you
> have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen position sensor), so if you want
up,
> 0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15 and 30, that's no problem. I don't
think
> they have implemented the trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be
> possible to automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them
back
> up in slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
> pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an open
> pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now debugging
the
> reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic mode switching (we
are
> the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP), but the GPS info from the
> 430 is already on there to do some of the mode switching. Each device can
> be set up to come on automatically in any mode, including preflight, so
you
> could have it turn on a Garmin 496 during preflight to go ahead and start
> downloading the weather.
>
> Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the ease
of
> installation, the great documentation and the quick and thorough tech
> support in getting things running. I just wish all of the possibilities
> were already implemented in the software. That will come.
>
> For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one of
> their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up the
good
> work.
>
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
Is there any sense of how much weight you add with the VP-200?.. and
would it replace the function of the Safety-Trim device?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Dec 14, 2007, at 3:22 PM, Michael Schipper wrote:
>
>
> I am planning to use the VP200 in my plane as well. It is more
> expensive than going with traditional breakers and switches, but
> there are several upsides. One of which is that the system
> continues to improve through software updates as previously mentioned.
>
> I ordered the VP200 back at Oshkosh thinking I would be further
> along by now. It really does look cool sitting on my desk. :-)
>
> Mike Schipper
> #40576 - Fuselage - www.rvten.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Before I had many hours in the soup IFR, I was in favor of as much automaiton in
light aircraft as possible. Now I've kind of taken a more conservative approach
and in addition to the cost of the VP-200, I would only fear the WOPR/Skynet
affect if this box that is hooked into and in control of (almost) everything
should "lose it mind" and go stupid (or smart:-). But that's just me, YMMV.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian
> "FAA". Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You
> have to have permission to spit in the air down here.
>
> As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
> hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far
> is a fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial
> wiring to setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if
> you have it wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it
> changed direction. The flaps allow you to set up, down and two
> intermediate positions if you have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen
> position sensor), so if you want up, 0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15
> and 30, that's no problem. I don't think they have implemented the
> trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be possible to
> automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back up in
> slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
> pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an
> open pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now
> debugging the reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic
> mode switching (we are the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP),
> but the GPS info from the 430 is already on there to do some of the
> mode switching. Each device can be set up to come on automatically in
> any mode, including preflight, so you could have it turn on a Garmin
> 496 during preflight to go ahead and start downloading the weather.
>
> Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the
> ease of installation, the great documentation and the quick and
> thorough tech support in getting things running. I just wish all of
> the possibilities were already implemented in the software. That will
> come.
>
> For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one
> of their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up
> the good work.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
As far as that goes, you can build in a safety net for critical stuff in
the event of the VP going boom. Really easy to do, and there are
diagrams on the VP site showing different ways to go about it. when
it's working, which should be the norm, the automation will be VERY nice
to have. Also, the emergency handling is pretty slick too!
cj
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 4:19 PM
Subject: re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
Before I had many hours in the soup IFR, I was in favor of as much
automaiton in light aircraft as possible. Now I've kind of taken a more
conservative approach and in addition to the cost of the VP-200, I would
only fear the WOPR/Skynet affect if this box that is hooked into and in
control of (almost) everything should "lose it mind" and go stupid (or
smart:-). But that's just me, YMMV.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian
> "FAA". Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You
> have to have permission to spit in the air down here.
>
> As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
> hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far
> is a fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial
> wiring to setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if
> you have it wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it
> changed direction. The flaps allow you to set up, down and two
> intermediate positions if you have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen
> position sensor), so if you want up, 0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15
> and 30, that's no problem. I don't think they have implemented the
> trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be possible to
> automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back up in
> slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
> pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an
> open pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now
> debugging the reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic
> mode switching (we are the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP),
> but the GPS info from the 430 is already on there to do some of the
> mode switching. Each device can be set up to come on automatically in
> any mode, including preflight, so you could have it turn on a Garmin
> 496 during preflight to go ahead and start downloading the weather.
>
> Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the
> ease of installation, the great documentation and the quick and
> thorough tech support in getting things running. I just wish all of
> the possibilities were already implemented in the software. That will
> come.
>
> For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one
> of their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up
> the good work.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
William
I spoke to Marc at VP yesterday on this very point. There are failsafes built in.
For example, if he box had a major brain fart (notice the high tech terminology),
I can still drive my EFIS off the main bus wth the simple throw of an external
switch.
In all seriousness, VP has given thought to failure modes. Given that the system
detects and handles device faults, can automatically implement load shedding
if an aternor fails, I suspect this is a lower risk solution.
Personally, I like the idea of a solid state electrical system rather than th
rats nest of wiring / breakers etc hat I have seen in more traditional a/c.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
----- Original Message -----
From: William Curtis <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com>
Date: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:21 pm
Subject: re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
>
> Before I had many hours in the soup IFR, I was in favor of as
> much automaiton in light aircraft as possible. Now I've
> kind of taken a more conservative approach and in addition to
> the cost of the VP-200, I would only fear the WOPR/Skynet affect
> if this box that is hooked into and in control of (almost)
> everything should "lose it mind" and go stupid (or smart:-
> ). But that's just me, YMMV.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> > We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the
> Ecuadorian
> > "FAA". Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have
> it good. You
> > have to have permission to spit in the air down here.
> >
> > As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are
> interested in
> > hearing, we have it up and running and mostly
> configured. It so far
> > is a fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from
> initial
> > wiring to setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim
> settings, if
> > you have it wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus
> and it
> > changed direction. The flaps allow you to set up, down
> and two
> > intermediate positions if you have an indicator (enter the Ray
> Allen
> > position sensor), so if you want up, 0, 10 and 30 instead of
> up, 0, 15
> > and 30, that's no problem. I don't think they have
> implemented the
> > trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be possible
> to
> > automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them
> back up in
> > slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we
> added for
> > pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy.
> Just pick an
> > open pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are
> right now
> > debugging the reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the
> automatic
> > mode switching (we are the first ones running on a Dynon with
> the VP),
> > but the GPS info from the 430 is already on there to do some
> of the
> > mode switching. Each device can be set up to come on
> automatically in
> > any mode, including preflight, so you could have it turn on a
> Garmin
> > 496 during preflight to go ahead and start downloading the weather.
> >
> > Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the
> functionality, the
> > ease of installation, the great documentation and the quick
> and
> > thorough tech support in getting things running. I just
> wish all of
> > the possibilities were already implemented in the
> software. That will
> > come.
> >
> > For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I
> am one
> > of their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they
> keep up
> > the good work.
> >
> > Jesse Saint
> > Saint Aviation, Inc.
> > jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> > Cell: 352-427-0285
> > Fax: 815-377-3694
>
>
>
>
>
> Lists This Month --
> (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> Click on
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> RV10-List Email Forum -
> _-
> = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Les,
Are you going with the 100 or 200?
I'm still struggling with the price/value of the unit.
Having met Marc and team at Michael Sausen's house before OSH and listening
to him explain the system, it is certainly a great product. I think I
would want to go with the 200, but am having difficulties justifying the
expense to myself, let alone my wife.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
Hmmm
I have a couple of long conversations with Marc Ausman of Vertical Power
over the past couple of weeks. I have decided to use their product after
seeing it at KOSH and reading the online docs.
I like the idea of eliminating the traditional bus / breaker arrangement for
something that is a more sophisticated. One of the nice things about their
system is that it builds in capabilities that would otherwise require
integration of other boxes. Things like trim sensitivity, landing light wig
wags, door alarms / annuciators / low voltage warnings / audible alarms /
etc.
If VP's post sales support is even half of what the pre-sales support is
like, they will be a great company to deal with.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: December-14-07 3:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian "FAA".
Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You have to have
permission to spit in the air down here.
As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far is a
fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial wiring to
setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if you have it
wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it changed direction.
The flaps allow you to set up, down and two intermediate positions if you
have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen position sensor), so if you want up,
0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15 and 30, that's no problem. I don't think
they have implemented the trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be
possible to automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back
up in slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an open
pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now debugging the
reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic mode switching (we are
the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP), but the GPS info from the
430 is already on there to do some of the mode switching. Each device can
be set up to come on automatically in any mode, including preflight, so you
could have it turn on a Garmin 496 during preflight to go ahead and start
downloading the weather.
Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the ease of
installation, the great documentation and the quick and thorough tech
support in getting things running. I just wish all of the possibilities
were already implemented in the software. That will come.
For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one of
their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up the good
work.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
__________ NOD32 2724 (20071214) Information __________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
I agree. After 4000+ and about 10% of that actual IMC without a working
autopilot and a career in information technology, I don't trust someone else
or something else flying the aircraft for me. Hence my 10 has every
appliance on its own breaker (eithor pull or toggle), two batteries and
three ways to get to the batteries. If you use the automation just make sure
that you know what it does for you and how to disconnect it and hand fly
from raw data. Hence it follows if one can't fly an ILS in actual IMC to
minimums, then the automation should not be doing it for you.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William Curtis
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:19 PM
Subject: re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
Before I had many hours in the soup IFR, I was in favor of as much
automaiton in light aircraft as possible. Now I've kind of taken a more
conservative approach and in addition to the cost of the VP-200, I would
only fear the WOPR/Skynet affect if this box that is hooked into and in
control of (almost) everything should "lose it mind" and go stupid (or
smart:-). But that's just me, YMMV.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian
> "FAA". Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You
> have to have permission to spit in the air down here.
>
> As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
> hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far
> is a fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial
> wiring to setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if
> you have it wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it
> changed direction. The flaps allow you to set up, down and two
> intermediate positions if you have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen
> position sensor), so if you want up, 0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15
> and 30, that's no problem. I don't think they have implemented the
> trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be possible to
> automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back up in
> slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
> pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an
> open pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now
> debugging the reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic
> mode switching (we are the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP),
> but the GPS info from the 430 is already on there to do some of the
> mode switching. Each device can be set up to come on automatically in
> any mode, including preflight, so you could have it turn on a Garmin
> 496 during preflight to go ahead and start downloading the weather.
>
> Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the
> ease of installation, the great documentation and the quick and
> thorough tech support in getting things running. I just wish all of
> the possibilities were already implemented in the software. That will
> come.
>
> For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one
> of their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up
> the good work.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Leffler" <rv(at)thelefflers.com> |
Marc does have a document that you can use to calculate the differences.
http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Pricing_Analysis.pdf
I would be interested in seeing if somebody has taken the time to complete
the worksheet to see where it came out.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:47 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
Any thoughts as to cost of the VP-200 vs conventional breakers and
somebody else's engine monitor/analyzer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
Hi Jeff,
The combined weight of the control unit, the display unit, and the
remote switch unit is around 5 pounds. I really don't know how that
would compare to a couple dozen breakers, switches, and wires.
Yes, it has runaway trim protection built in, along with many other
safety features.
There is no built-in engine monitor, but it will take the output from
any GRT-compatible EIS and display the engine data.
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Fuselage - www.rvten.com
On Dec 14, 2007, at 5:45 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> >
>
> Is there any sense of how much weight you add with the VP-200?.. and
> would it replace the function of the Safety-Trim device?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
>
> On Dec 14, 2007, at 3:22 PM, Michael Schipper wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> I am planning to use the VP200 in my plane as well. It is more
>> expensive than going with traditional breakers and switches, but
>> there are several upsides. One of which is that the system
>> continues to improve through software updates as previously
>> mentioned.
>>
>> I ordered the VP200 back at Oshkosh thinking I would be further
>> along by now. It really does look cool sitting on my desk. :-)
>>
>> Mike Schipper
>> #40576 - Fuselage - www.rvten.com
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
I have done the worksheet and I found that either unit saved me about
$1,750 in parts (flap positioning system, trim relays, switches,
breakers, etc.). As Stein told me when I talked to him about it, it
really comes into play a lot when you start calculating the amount of
time it saves. I think that someone who has never wired a plane can
handle doing it with this a LOT easier than the traditional way. When
it comes time to add something, which you will very possibly do even
before you get the plane flying, you can just add that to the
spreadsheet and run a wire from a pin on J3-J6 and set it up in the
menus. It also gives you a lot easier point to start to build the
wiring harness outside the plane as one piece and just slide it in
(minus some of the big wires, of course). I have now wired 3
airframes with this and am very happy with how easy it is to plan-
harness-install. After next weekend anybody who wants to come by X35
for a ground demo, I would be happy to do it.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Dec 14, 2007, at 8:00 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Marc does have a document that you can use to calculate the
> differences.
> http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Pricing_Analysis.pdf
>
> I would be interested in seeing if somebody has taken the time to
> complete
> the worksheet to see where it came out.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
> McMullen
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:47 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
>
>
> Any thoughts as to cost of the VP-200 vs conventional breakers and
> somebody else's engine monitor/analyzer?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
OK, is this the "saving" by spending or are you saying that if you had not installed
the VP-200 you would have installed $8,245 ($6,495+$1,750) worth of wiring,
breakers and devices? This, I find hard to believe. And there is the tell;
this product is a GREAT deal for a reseller. It allows them to add another
high value item to the customer cost that saves THEM the reseller time in wiring.
Don't get me wrong, I think this would also be great for those that have
never or had little or no experience wiring an aircraft also. But you would
have had to have slept through economics class for the VP-200 to save the end
user money over a conventional design. The ket fob and automation features are
compelling however for a VFR aircraft.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
>
> I have done the worksheet and I found that either unit saved me about
> $1,750 in parts (flap positioning system, trim relays, switches,
> breakers, etc.). As Stein told me when I talked to him about it, it
> really comes into play a lot when you start calculating the amount of
> time it saves. I think that someone who has never wired a plane can
> handle doing it with this a LOT easier than the traditional way. When
> it comes time to add something, which you will very possibly do even
> before you get the plane flying, you can just add that to the
> spreadsheet and run a wire from a pin on J3-J6 and set it up in the
> menus. It also gives you a lot easier point to start to build the
> wiring harness outside the plane as one piece and just slide it in
> (minus some of the big wires, of course). I have now wired 3
> airframes with this and am very happy with how easy it is to plan-
> harness-install. After next weekend anybody who wants to come by X35
> for a ground demo, I would be happy to do it.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
> Cell: 352-427-0285
> Fax: 815-377-3694
>
> On Dec 14, 2007, at 8:00 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> >
> > Marc does have a document that you can use to calculate the
> > differences.
> > http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Pricing_Analysis.pdf
> >
> > I would be interested in seeing if somebody has taken the time to
> > complete
> > the worksheet to see where it came out.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
> > McMullen
> > Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:47 PM
> > To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
> >
> >
> > Any thoughts as to cost of the VP-200 vs conventional breakers and
> > somebody else's engine monitor/analyzer?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pascal" <rv10builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: fuel prices along chart |
Here is a neat link someone posted on the SoCal VAF yahoo list that may
come in handy when looking for a cheaper $100 burger location.
http://www.seattleavionics.com/FuelPrices.shtml#FuelPrices
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jesse Saint <jesse(at)saintaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
That is not a savings of $1,750 beyond the cost of the unit, but
rather towards the cost of the unit, according to my calculations. As
I mentioned, "it really comes into play a lot when you start
calculating the amount of time it saves" on wiring. For those who
want to take the time as in many other aspects of the plane, then it
would only be a benefit if they would otherwise pay someone to wire
their plane because they don't feel they are up to the task of wiring
for whatever reason. Yes, it can be a great deal for a reseller/
installer because of the time savings, but I am actually making the
point that would hurt a reseller, that it makes the wiring easy enough
that more people can do it that would otherwise not want to mess with
the wiring, and I know there are a lot of people like that (how many
on the list have done or plan to do all of their wiring except the
standard wiring harnesses for things like radios and other
instruments?). For the completely budget conscious person who is
comfortable doing the wiring, then this is not the way to go. For
them just going with a couple of fuse blocks and half a dozen cheap
switches is the cheapest way to go.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
On Dec 14, 2007, at 9:57 PM, William Curtis wrote:
>
> OK, is this the "saving" by spending or are you saying that if you
> had not installed the VP-200 you would have installed $8,245 ($6,495+
> $1,750) worth of wiring, breakers and devices? This, I find hard to
> believe. And there is the tell; this product is a GREAT deal for a
> reseller. It allows them to add another high value item to the
> customer cost that saves THEM the reseller time in wiring. Don't
> get me wrong, I think this would also be great for those that have
> never or had little or no experience wiring an aircraft also. But
> you would have had to have slept through economics class for the
> VP-200 to save the end user money over a conventional design. The
> ket fob and automation features are compelling however for a VFR
> aircraft.
>
> William
> http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
>
> -------- Original Message --------
>>
>>
>> I have done the worksheet and I found that either unit saved me about
>> $1,750 in parts (flap positioning system, trim relays, switches,
>> breakers, etc.). As Stein told me when I talked to him about it, it
>> really comes into play a lot when you start calculating the amount of
>> time it saves. I think that someone who has never wired a plane can
>> handle doing it with this a LOT easier than the traditional way.
>> When
>> it comes time to add something, which you will very possibly do even
>> before you get the plane flying, you can just add that to the
>> spreadsheet and run a wire from a pin on J3-J6 and set it up in the
>> menus. It also gives you a lot easier point to start to build the
>> wiring harness outside the plane as one piece and just slide it in
>> (minus some of the big wires, of course). I have now wired 3
>> airframes with this and am very happy with how easy it is to plan-
>> harness-install. After next weekend anybody who wants to come by X35
>> for a ground demo, I would be happy to do it.
>>
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> jesse(at)saintaviation.com
>> Cell: 352-427-0285
>> Fax: 815-377-3694
>>
>> On Dec 14, 2007, at 8:00 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Marc does have a document that you can use to calculate the
>>> differences.
>>> http://www.verticalpower.com/docs/Pricing_Analysis.pdf
>>>
>>> I would be interested in seeing if somebody has taken the time to
>>> complete
>>> the worksheet to see where it came out.
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly
>>> McMullen
>>> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:47 PM
>>> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Any thoughts as to cost of the VP-200 vs conventional breakers and
>>> somebody else's engine monitor/analyzer?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
Bob
I am going with the VP200. I am also using an Approach Systems faststack
(see http://www.approachfaststack.com/index.html) to do the wiring
interconnects between the various boxes. Between these two systems, I expect
my wiring chores to be manageable.
My reason for using the VP20 was I wanted to make the power side of the
wiring as simple as possible I saw the unit at KOSH and was very impressed.
I was also impressed that people such as Stein spoke highly of the product.
Stein has a great rep within the -10 community so I give a lot of weight to
his recommendation.
There are a lot of things that are built into the box such as being able to
identify and isolate electrical problems very quickly. The box also handles
failures such as load shedding based on either or IFR or VFR rules if there
is an alternator failure. It will turn the boost pump on if the main fuel
pump fails. It will wig wag lights. If will control trim tab speed based on
the mode of flight. It will allow the trim controls on the co-pilots stick
to be disabled at the push of a button. It will provide audible warnings for
various error conditions such as a door being ajar.
Many of not all of these conditions can be duplicated using other products.
This would require however, the integration of different products which may
be complicated.
I want to do my own wiring and as I readily admit I am a rank amateur at
this, I want it to be as simple and fool/idiot proof as possible.
I also think that the panel will be safer and easier to troubleshoot. In
fact, in most cases I expect that the VP200 will zero in on the problem for
me.
Unlike most -10 builders, I am going the "alterative engine" route and am
installing an Eggenfellner E6TI engine. This means my electrical system
needs to be bullet proof because no electrical system means the fan upfront
stops and I start to sweat. I believe that the VP200 will provide the level
of reliability I want. They have a wiring scheme specific to the Egg engine
which has been "blessed" by Jan Eggenfellner.
As for convincing your wife, I suggest you use my technique - keep in mind
that both my wife and I are accountants (she being far better than me).
Anyway, I just say it is needed "for safety reasons". She then makes some
derogatory remark about my "plane math" and walks away. As far as costs are
concerned, I keep all my receipts in a box. When the C-GCWZ first flies, I
plan to burn the box and forget the cost.
Cheers
Les
#40643
PS: Seriously though. Download the user manual / install manuals for the
VP200 and have a good read. Understand what the VP200 really can do and I
think you will be pleasantly surprised.
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: December-14-07 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
Les,
Are you going with the 100 or 200?
I'm still struggling with the price/value of the unit.
Having met Marc and team at Michael Sausen's house before OSH and listening
to him explain the system, it is certainly a great product. I think I
would want to go with the 200, but am having difficulties justifying the
expense to myself, let alone my wife.
Bob
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les Kearney
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 5:50 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
Hmmm
I have a couple of long conversations with Marc Ausman of Vertical Power
over the past couple of weeks. I have decided to use their product after
seeing it at KOSH and reading the online docs.
I like the idea of eliminating the traditional bus / breaker arrangement for
something that is a more sophisticated. One of the nice things about their
system is that it builds in capabilities that would otherwise require
integration of other boxes. Things like trim sensitivity, landing light wig
wags, door alarms / annuciators / low voltage warnings / audible alarms /
etc.
If VP's post sales support is even half of what the pre-sales support is
like, they will be a great company to deal with.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: December-14-07 3:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: VP-200 Update
We are ready to fly, just awaiting the permission from the Ecuadorian "FAA".
Those of us who live and fly in the US sure have it good. You have to have
permission to spit in the air down here.
As an update on the Vertical Power system that some are interested in
hearing, we have it up and running and mostly configured. It so far is a
fantastic way to handle the electrical system, from initial wiring to
setting flaps and wiring trims. With the trim settings, if you have it
wired backwards, you can just flip it in the menus and it changed direction.
The flaps allow you to set up, down and two intermediate positions if you
have an indicator (enter the Ray Allen position sensor), so if you want up,
0, 10 and 30 instead of up, 0, 15 and 30, that's no problem. I don't think
they have implemented the trim sensitivity option yet, but it will soon be
possible to automatically slow down the trims in cruise and speed them back
up in slow flight and pattern work. Adding circuits, like we added for
pumps from wingtip tanks to the mains, is super easy. Just pick an open
pin, run a wire and set it up in the menu. They are right now debugging the
reading from the Dynon EMS to help with the automatic mode switching (we are
the first ones running on a Dynon with the VP), but the GPS info from the
430 is already on there to do some of the mode switching. Each device can
be set up to come on automatically in any mode, including preflight, so you
could have it turn on a Garmin 496 during preflight to go ahead and start
downloading the weather.
Overall, I am so far very impressed with both the functionality, the ease of
installation, the great documentation and the quick and thorough tech
support in getting things running. I just wish all of the possibilities
were already implemented in the software. That will come.
For the record, I am not affiliated with Vertical Power, but I am one of
their dealers, which I will continue to be as long as they keep up the good
work.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
__________ NOD32 2724 (20071214) Information __________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Composite School - helpful advice please (Doors/Cabin top) |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I am presently fitting my doors. I have the latch pins and gas struts installed
and cannot get the doors to fit perfectly.
The doors fit nice and tight at the top (with some shims) and at the bottom with
the latching pins. (Rivithead set is very slick) But the middle of the door
is unsatisfactory
Essentially the door bows outward in the middle more than the cabin top by about
1/16-1/8 inch. It seems evident that the solution is to build up the cabin top
at the front windshield flange and at the area between the door and the rear
window.
The best advice that I have received so far is from Gus at Van's who suggested
that I saturate foam with epoxy and shape it to the area and then cover it with
a thin coat of fabric saturated with epoxy.
I was also warned not to use ANY polyester/bondo products on the cabin top.
Any advice here will be appreciated
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152296#152296
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Edgerton" <wayne.e(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: heavy wing with fairings |
I had the same situation on mine and in my case I determined that it was
just in need of right rudder trim. I installed a 7" long static rudder
trim piece and the problem went away. So once figured out it was a
simple fix.
Wayne Edgerton
N602WT
Someone locally is flying his RV-10 and noticed the following I
thought
I would challenge the fliers with:
What I noticed is at faster speeds the heavy right wing is more
noticeable. Need to figure out what is causing the heavy wing as
it
relates to the fairings. Any suggestions? Slower speeds not
noticeable.
Pascal
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA in your RV-10? |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
I've got an AOA Pro in my (not quite flying yet) panel. Alex DeDominicis also
has an AOA Pro in his RV-10 that he uses for transition training. I just flew
with him last week and it was great!
The wing kit consists of a pair of UMHW "pressure taps" and the associated tubing.
There isn't really anything special about the taps - they just give you a
way to connect the tubing to the small hole in the upper & lower holes that you
drill in the wing. Upper port also has a fitting for draining any water that
might collect. The tubing is colored 1/8" Tygon. Kit also includes install
instructions, labels for the ports and some other misc. stuff - not sure if
it also includes the switch for flap position or not. There's probably some cost
saving potential but in the end you'd spend a fair amount of time trying to
replicate what AFS sells and wouldn't end up with the same quality.
I personally would consider fabricating my own wing kit any more than I'd fab my
own heated pitot tube.
Bob #40105
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152317#152317
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA in your RV-10? |
| From: | "bcondrey" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Typo - I would NOT fab the AOA wing kit any more than I'd considering fab of a
heated pitot tube instead of buying one.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152318#152318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA in your RV-10? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
Eric,
I have installed two AOAs in my RV-10 still under construction. I looked at all
the options out there and decided on the Dynon heated pitot with AoA. Listed
at $450 but it'll be $600 by the time you buy the Gretz mount and other stuff
(it's still an excellent pitot tube). Obviously that means there will be a Dynon
somewhere on the panel.
The other AOA I purchased is called a Lift Reserve Indicator made by InAir Instruments.
It is purely mechanical and used a round dial gauge that I plan on mounting
on my glareshield. I think I paid $400 for it at Oshkosh.
You probably wonder why two - simple, I was a Navy jet jock many years ago and
learned to trust it above everything else. The Dynon, InAir, and the AFS use the
same principle of differential air pressure. The Dynon and InAir are under
the wing and protected from rain while parked. The AFS uses a hole on top of the
wing which requires a drain port to check during preflight.
I've seen a few airplanes out there with a Vane on the wingtip that would do the
job as well, but I was worried about its susceptibility to damage by people
passing by who couldn't resist turn it.
You can build your own, as well. Here is a site where someone did: http://www.ch601.org/resources/aoa/aoa.htm The principle is real simple: two air ports at different angles to the airstream. If more air is coming through the upper one, you're going fast. You could actually just hook them up to red and green balloons in the cockpit. When the red one gets bigger than the green, you should drop the nose. Calibrating something like that would be funny to watch but you get the drift.
One additional point; the Dynon heated tube gives me IFR capability and the Dynon
EFIS will give me the required aural stall warning. I didn't install the Vans
Stall Warning device because of that.
Hope this helps
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152344#152344
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com> |
| Subject: | Composite School - helpful advice please (Doors/Cabin top) |
If you can trim the edge of the door any more so it fits a little below
grade, that might reduce the 1/8" high to more like 1/16". In other words,
split the difference so the thickest filler is only 1/16, some where the
door is low and some where the top is low. That should be pretty managable.
We ended up putting about that much flox putty around the opening to bring
the level up a bit. We used flox because I was concerned that filler
wouldn't hold up in such a high traffic area.
The best filler for other areas that we've used is Superfil. ACS P/N
09-28250. It's epoxy and it takes a long time to cure (12 hours!) but it
works and lasts great.
Dave Saylor
AirCrafters LLC
140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA
831-722-9141
831-750-0284 CL
www.AirCraftersLLC.com
N921AC 50 hrs, currently at the paint shop
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AirMike
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2007 10:50 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Composite School - helpful advice please (Doors/Cabin
top)
I am presently fitting my doors. I have the latch pins and gas struts
installed and cannot get the doors to fit perfectly.
The doors fit nice and tight at the top (with some shims) and at the bottom
with the latching pins. (Rivithead set is very slick) But the middle of the
door is unsatisfactory
Essentially the door bows outward in the middle more than the cabin top by
about 1/16-1/8 inch. It seems evident that the solution is to build up the
cabin top at the front windshield flange and at the area between the door
and the rear window.
The best advice that I have received so far is from Gus at Van's who
suggested that I saturate foam with epoxy and shape it to the area and then
cover it with a thin coat of fabric saturated with epoxy.
I was also warned not to use ANY polyester/bondo products on the cabin top.
Any advice here will be appreciated
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152296#152296
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
On Dec 14, 2007, at 7:10 AM, Fred Williams, M.D. wrote:
>
> I spent roughly $1500. Came with all the lights and vents. Here's a
> web site.
> accuracy avionics
We bought the whole kit, too. It would have been much cheaper without
the lights, eyeball vents, and switches, but probably no net savings
once you bought all that stuff. OTOH, you could pick the lights and
switches you wanted.
We think we like the lights, but "we shall see" when it comes time to
fly at night.
The vents are particularly nice. Nonetheless we would consider the
bare plenum "next time". Tony at Accuracy may be rethinking the
switches, I think.
Because we're mounting an antenna in the "DVD" area, we've cut in a
couple more access hatches. We also "customized" the area in the
front center to accept grommets for antennae. Turns out we're using
those grommets for other wires because we didn't want to cut into the
structural shell above the pilots' heads for GPS antennae.
Also, in order to fit our particular airplane, the plenum needed to
be completely cut away and re-fitted in the area of the "joggle"
between the thicker and thinner parts of the shell, and at the aft
end we needed to cut off the flange.
We made a "plate" to extend the bulkhead and serve as a doubler for
the SCAT tube fittings at the back of the baggage compartment. This
allowed the corrugated panel to be cut away to fit around the plenum,
and still be removable and replaceable. Photos available offline by
email.
Installing NACA vents with the tail cone, but not the cabin top, in
position was pretty easy. Nobody seems to know an ideal position, so
we just copied what others have used with apparent success. We
mounted them right behind the baggage area, and roughly midway
between the longeron and stiffener.
Marlys and John
40458
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA in your RV-10? |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey John,
The InAir (and Dynon) is a great deal cheaper than the AFS. Does the AFS AOA have
any benefits over InAir?
regards,
cjay
johngoodman wrote:
> Eric,
> I have installed two AOAs in my RV-10 still under construction. I looked at all
the options out there and decided on the Dynon heated pitot with AoA. Listed
at $450 but it'll be $600 by the time you buy the Gretz mount and other stuff
(it's still an excellent pitot tube). Obviously that means there will be a Dynon
somewhere on the panel.
> The other AOA I purchased is called a Lift Reserve Indicator made by InAir Instruments.
It is purely mechanical and used a round dial gauge that I plan on
mounting on my glareshield. I think I paid $400 for it at Oshkosh.
>
> You probably wonder why two - simple, I was a Navy jet jock many years ago and
learned to trust it above everything else. The Dynon, InAir, and the AFS use
the same principle of differential air pressure. The Dynon and InAir are under
the wing and protected from rain while parked. The AFS uses a hole on top of
the wing which requires a drain port to check during preflight.
> I've seen a few airplanes out there with a Vane on the wingtip that would do
the job as well, but I was worried about its susceptibility to damage by people
passing by who couldn't resist turn it.
>
> You can build your own, as well. Here is a site where someone did: http://www.ch601.org/resources/aoa/aoa.htm The principle is real simple: two air ports at different angles to the airstream. If more air is coming through the upper one, you're going fast. You could actually just hook them up to red and green balloons in the cockpit. When the red one gets bigger than the green, you should drop the nose. Calibrating something like that would be funny to watch but you get the drift.
>
> One additional point; the Dynon heated tube gives me IFR capability and the Dynon
EFIS will give me the required aural stall warning. I didn't install the
Vans Stall Warning device because of that.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152444#152444
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AOA in your RV-10? |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the AFS system from my point of view. I
just prefer to have the probes under the wing. The hole on top is a water collection
problem, that's all (easy to put a cover on pitot tubes and LRI probes).
Cost is also a factor. However, I will say that I find most of the cockpit displays
too colorful and complex for my tastes. Too much interpretation of what
the little colored chevrons mean. That's why I like an analog dial - just like
the Navy. The red/amber/green colors originate from the chevron light indicator
that was in the carrier jets (only used for landings). The pilot only saw
(from top to bottom) an inverted red chevron, an amber circle, or a green chevron
(slow changes would show two lights). What the Navy pilot was seeing was
the same thing as the lights on the nose wheel that the LSO (Landing Signal Officer)
saw. In a simple example, he could tell if you were pulling up the nose
without power because the lights would start blinking from amber to amber/red,
or red.
Since you asked, I read through the calibration process of the AFS product and
found it a little complex. Calibration is still required for any of them, but
I liked the InAir the best. Since I didn't want to cut into my QB wings to put
in Van's stall warning, the Dynon system seemed to fill all the squares - a heated
pitot, and an aural stall warning that was based on a system I knew and
trusted. I still wanted a genuine analog dial, so I also chose InAir and put it
on the other wing. The advantage of an analog dial is that I will be able to
calibrate Maneuvering, L over D max, Best Glide, Best Range, etc., and put marks
on the dial face. To give an example, the guy who always won in ACM (air combat
maneuvering - dogfighting) always kept the high g turn right on L over D
Max. Since the gauge was on the upper left of the panel, a savvy Air Force guy
could force you into right turns and take the advantage away, I'm sad to say....
John
cjay wrote:
> Hey John,
>
> The InAir (and Dynon) is a great deal cheaper than the AFS. Does the AFS AOA
have any benefits over InAir?
>
> regards,
>
> cjay
>
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152452#152452
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
I remember reading a post a few weeks ago about this but I don't recal the
location of the problem
I closed up the bottom of one wing today and I am quite surprised to find s
o much oil canning on the skins just aft of the main spar. I used clecos in
every hole and I followed the directions, starting from the location indic
ated and moving forward and inward and outward at the same time. Aside from
a few blemishes, I thought I had done a fairly good job, but compared to w
hat the rest of the quickbuild wing looks like, I would say I am missing so
me thing.
I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft portions of
the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was worried
that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat on
the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.) skin.
Any body want to admit to having a similar finding.
Thanks
JOhn G. 409
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hey John,
Previous post was probably from me. I had oil canning in the VS and rudder
. Tore down and rebuilt the VS - it is now much better. Oil canning in th
e rudder was due to not enough bend applied to the leading edge which place
s too much stress on the skins behind the spar. Removed the LP4-3s and ref
ormed by hand and re-rivetted. Only a small oil can in one panel now. Thi
s is a lesson for those about to build their rudder - once initially formed
, the bend is quite easy to finish by hand forming. Do not try and pull th
e skins together with clecoes and then rivet. Oil canning will result.
I rivetted my bottom wing skins solo. One panel oil cans aft of the main s
par (midway between the outboard inspection holes). The rest are tight as a
drum. I noticed the skins tighten a fair bit as I neared the end of the r
ivetting sequence per plans.
cheers
Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of John Gonzalez
Sent: Sun 16/12/2007 16:06
Subject: RV10-List: oil canning.
I remember reading a post a few weeks ago about this but I don't recal the
location of the problem
I closed up the bottom of one wing today and I am quite surprised to find s
o much oil canning on the skins just aft of the main spar. I used clecos in
every hole and I followed the directions, starting from the location indic
ated and moving forward and inward and outward at the same time. Aside from
a few blemishes, I thought I had done a fairly good job, but compared to w
hat the rest of the quickbuild wing looks like, I would say I am missing so
me thing.
I will say that after I got the J channel rivetted and the aft portions of
the ribs completed, I rivetted the skin at the main spar, as I was worried
that if I kept working forward I would prevent the skin from laying flat on
the spar and it might get hung up on the edge of the forward(L.E.) skin.
Any body want to admit to having a similar finding.
Thanks
JOhn G. 409
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | collision avoidance |
After two near misses in or above the CHD class D within the last three
months, I would like to hear from anyone who uses the Zaon MRX or XRX.
I currently have the MRX and it provides distance and relative altitude
separation. Bearing it lacks. The XRX is supposed to provide all. On
both misses, I believe the MRX got my attention (although I don't
specifically recall) and I spotted traffic between 11:45 and 12:15 at
1/4 mile and eithor <100 above and >100<200 below me. In one instance I
jammed the stick forward and lifted the tool box in the rear from the
floor. On both occasions I was monitoring CHD tower and no advisories
were issued. From what I could tell both of the other aircraft were
missed approachs or departures from CHD. When traveling through or
above CHD class D, I advise "don't expect anything from CHD tower" and
reduce to maneuvering speed. Incidentially I am currently flying the
Glastar but will put some PCAS in my 10 when it flies in 1st quarter.
Ryan TCAD is out (too expensive); Garmin 330 is out (have G327 and mode S is
becoming obsolete).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Statistical Sample |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
It looks from the attached information (which Tim began) that the total
fleet hours are now at 21,000.
If you are willing to update the info or add your flying RV-10 to the
mix, then send me the data and I will add it.
John Cox
#40 <> 600
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeroduct vs. Scat Tubing |
| From: | "Robin Marks" <robin1(at)mrmoisture.com> |
I have been thinking a lot about the oil cooling temp issues for the
-10. Some have chosen to upgraded the oil cooler. I have an interest in
controlling the oil temps by improving the air flow to the box and them
adding a gate in the oil cooler housing that will allow me to restrict
the air flow to the oil cooler in cold weather. (photo attached)
I am considering swapping out the standard Scat Tubing for Silicone
lined high temp Aeroduct hose. I have purchased this hose for my OH
Console to replace the hearting scat tubes. It's nice stuff! My thinking
is that this duct is much smoother and significantly less corrugated
that scat tubing which SHOULD improve airflow to the oil cooler. The
down side is that this ducting is only sold in 12 foot lengths at $150 /
12 feet. I probably need 2 feet.
My other concept is to take two 3" tubes from the baffling (one on each
side of the engine, I prefer this symmetry) and have both of these 3"
tubes feed the oil cooler box. I don't know if I will have room to run a
3" duct from the right side on the engine to the oil cooler mounted in
the typical location.
To further complicate things I will be using the James Cowl & Plenum.
I would appreciate any observations on using the smooth Silicone lined
Aeroduct hose vs. Scat Tube and or comments on two 3" tubes/duct vs. the
one larger tube/duct.
Thanks,
Robin
Thinking of an RV-8A...Mental illness runs in my family.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=3171&action=product&fo
rm_
cat_id=59,7
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> |
I have the XRX that I used in my 182 till I sold it last year to build the new
RV10. So far I am impressed with the unit and probably more important - the company.
The unit is not an excuse for heads down VFR flying. View it as a tool
in your tool box of avionics
I find that the delay is significant on the unit, but being aware of that gives
you a lot of what you need to know anyway. The Xaon people are very nice. My
unit is going back to them this week for a FREE software/firmware upgrade so that
it will link to my GPS496 unit and display on the display of the GPS496. Can
you get a better deal than that for TCAS for less than $2K.
Jason (the president of Xaon) is aways at OSH and is very approachable.
Last year he told me that he would trade my XRX in at full value when they come
out with their hard wired installation. He might even do the same on an MRX to
XRX upgrade.
--------
OSH '08 or Bust
Q/B Kit - Doors/windows/fiberglass stuff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152541#152541
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeroduct vs. Scat Tubing |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Robin, that's a most interesting landing gear leg and brake assembly
(shown).
You will find many advantages to the course you are pursuing. LoPresti
would be please with your acknowledgement on air flow control. Let me
know how much you have left, I would be interested, Too. I am looking
at an improved flow path over the stock configuration.
John Cox
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 11:14 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Aeroduct vs. Scat Tubing
I have been thinking a lot about the oil cooling temp issues for the
-10. Some have chosen to upgraded the oil cooler. I have an interest in
controlling the oil temps by improving the air flow to the box and them
adding a gate in the oil cooler housing that will allow me to restrict
the air flow to the oil cooler in cold weather. (photo attached)
I am considering swapping out the standard Scat Tubing for Silicone
lined high temp Aeroduct hose. I have purchased this hose for my OH
Console to replace the hearting scat tubes. It's nice stuff! My thinking
is that this duct is much smoother and significantly less corrugated
that scat tubing which SHOULD improve airflow to the oil cooler. The
down side is that this ducting is only sold in 12 foot lengths at $150 /
12 feet. I probably need 2 feet.
My other concept is to take two 3" tubes from the baffling (one on each
side of the engine, I prefer this symmetry) and have both of these 3"
tubes feed the oil cooler box. I don't know if I will have room to run a
3" duct from the right side on the engine to the oil cooler mounted in
the typical location.
To further complicate things I will be using the James Cowl & Plenum.
I would appreciate any observations on using the smooth Silicone lined
Aeroduct hose vs. Scat Tube and or comments on two 3" tubes/duct vs. the
one larger tube/duct.
Thanks,
Robin
Thinking of an RV-8A...Mental illness runs in my family.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=3171&action=product&fo
rm_
cat_id=59,7
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The Greenies are Coming |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Nothing fall through the cracks. We let it happen through our own
apathy or failure to clearly communicate our desires. It is a two way
street. One of the authors of our latest fiasco was even a major radio
talk show host and aviator. Oh the blasphemy.
Oregon is now acknowledging that in an effort to please our Left leaning
Governor, Senators and Representatives we would try to keep Oregon as
the farthest left of logical states on the Western Seaboard (and that's
no easy task with California so progressive). Everyone is now willing
to admit the language was poorly written, incompetently researched and
hastily passed.
The lessons for all pilots (Everywhere) is to keep abreast of
legislative trends. This same one is coming to a state near you, sooner
that you're ready for it. Montana took a pre-emptive effort to protect
the supply of Non Ethanol AVGAS throughout their distribution system.
Oregon is trying to correct the widespread damage by leaving a provision
for a new distribution and new sale of 91 octane Non Adulterated MOGAS
for use in aircraft using an EAA or Peterson sponsored STC. The
difficulty is that MOGAS does not stay as a "fresh consumable" as long
as AVGAS. It lacks stabilizers. The supply of this product is not
likely to gain market viability. The new loophole would permit FBO's to
buy another fuel tank, pay another licensing fee, track another fuel
source for sale and then try to find a distributor to bring very small
boutique quantities of this new 91 Octane MOGAS to airports around our
state on a frequent basis. Try to imagine the Supply and Demand model
for very small quantity distribution (less than 5,000 gals) to your
favorite airport.
On a second front, they are redefining the descriptor for AVGAS to
protect its cleanliness and not further disrupt our state based <> aircraft and aviation industries.
We are still trying to jumpstart the Ethanol Industry before Iowa,
Nebraska and the Great Heartland takes away all our business with our
middle eastern brethren. Attached you may read the latest developments
to try and stem the damage that has now been done. Before making cross
country flights, research the grade and availability of your favorite
fuel. Not just its price.
Stay aware of your local legislative issues.
John Cox
#40600
Legislative Affairs for the Oregon Pilots Association
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroduct vs. Scat Tubing |
Kind of a side note as we're talking about cooling and air flow. I took my
cowling off last week and noticed that the aluminum shielding I had applied
to
the bottom cowling had been peeled up just underneath the oil cooler. Now I
can't say for sure, but this seems to indicate that the air is flowing forwa
rd
in this location; probably not the most efficient flow pattern. Possibly
additional louvers in this location may help.
I have the stock oil cooler with a stock installation. You might notice I'v
e
added a few extra louvers on the bottom cowl. I've also added a "dryer vent
"
exhaust on the exit side of the oil cooler (see photo). My hope is this
would help the air exiting the oil cooler to more smoothly mix with the exi
ting
air. I have no hard data to back up whether these were actual improvements
in
air flow; however I'll say that my oil temp and CHTs have become lower and
more manageable with the changes.
-Jim
40134 - Flying
In a message dated 12/16/2007 2:27:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
robin1(at)mrmoisture.com writes:
I have been thinking a lot about the oil cooling temp issues for the -10.
Some have chosen to upgraded the oil cooler. I have an interest in control
ling
the oil temps by improving the air flow to the box and them adding a gate i
n
the oil cooler housing that will allow me to restrict the air flow to the
oil cooler in cold weather. (photo attached)
I am considering swapping out the standard Scat Tubing for Silicone lined
high temp Aeroduct hose. I have purchased this hose for my OH Console to
replace the hearting scat tubes. It=99s nice stuff! My thinking is th
at this duct is
much smoother and significantly less corrugated that scat tubing which SHOU
LD
improve airflow to the oil cooler. The down side is that this ducting is
only sold in 12 foot lengths at $150 / 12 feet. I probably need 2 feet.
My other concept is to take two 3=9D tubes from the baffling (one on
each side
of the engine, I prefer this symmetry) and have both of these 3=9D tu
bes feed
the oil cooler box. I don=99t know if I will have room to run a 3
=9D duct from
the right side on the engine to the oil cooler mounted in the typical
location.
To further complicate things I will be using the James Cowl & Plenum.
I would appreciate any observations on using the smooth Silicone lined
Aeroduct hose vs. Scat Tube and or comments on two 3=9D tubes/duct vs
. the one
larger tube/duct.
Thanks,
Robin
Thinking of an RV-8AMental illness runs in my family.
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I'm about to fit the wingtips to the wing, and I need to determine the
neutral aileron position to align and trim the length of the trailing
edge of the tip with the aileron. Does the neutral position that is set
with the rigging of the wing bellcrank give a true neutral, or does the
aileron need to be set to trail with the flap for a accurate neutral
position? On the RV8, I had to wait until the wing was mounted to the
fuselage, install the flaps and rig to full up, then adjust the aileron
trail to the flap trail to get a true neutral. Am I better off waiting
until this scenario on the 10 as well?
Chris Hukill
(what, more fiberglass!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen(at)earthlink.net> |
On my 6A, I had an airfoil template that I used for the ailerons, flaps
and tip - even prior to inatallation of the wing to the fuse - and it
hasn't needed to be changed since I installed the wing.
I was planning to do the same again......
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Hukill
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: wing tip
I'm about to fit the wingtips to the wing, and I need to determine the
neutral aileron position to align and trim the length of the trailing
edge of the tip with the aileron. Does the neutral position that is set
with the rigging of the wing bellcrank give a true neutral, or does the
aileron need to be set to trail with the flap for a accurate neutral
position? On the RV8, I had to wait until the wing was mounted to the
fuselage, install the flaps and rig to full up, then adjust the aileron
trail to the flap trail to get a true neutral. Am I better off waiting
until this scenario on the 10 as well?
Chris Hukill
(what, more fiberglass!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aeroduct vs. Scat Tubing |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
High pressure and cooler air from the upper plenum escapes through the
oil heat exchanger and collides with the downflow past the cooling fins
on the port side. It is a great example of the burble generated from
the collision of air masses. It may also indicate an adhesion problem
between the film and the lower cowl finish coating.
John Cox
40600 - dreaming
________________________________
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
JSMcGrew(at)aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 4:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Aeroduct vs. Scat Tubing
Kind of a side note as we're talking about cooling and air flow. I took
my cowling off last week and noticed that the aluminum shielding I had
applied to the bottom cowling had been peeled up just underneath the oil
cooler. Now I can't say for sure, but this seems to indicate that the
air is flowing forward in this location; probably not the most efficient
flow pattern. Possibly additional louvers in this location may help.
I have the stock oil cooler with a stock installation. You might notice
I've added a few extra louvers on the bottom cowl. I've also added a
"dryer vent" exhaust on the exit side of the oil cooler (see photo). My
hope is this would help the air exiting the oil cooler to more smoothly
mix with the exiting air. I have no hard data to back up whether these
were actual improvements in air flow; however I'll say that my oil temp
and CHTs have become lower and more manageable with the changes.
-Jim
40134 - Flying
In a message dated 12/16/2007 2:27:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
robin1(at)mrmoisture.com writes:
I ha ve been thinking a lot about the oil cooling temp issues
for the -10. Some have chosen to upgraded the oil cooler. I have an
interest in controlling the oil temps by improving the air flow to the
box and them adding a gate in the oil cooler housing that will allow me
to restrict the air flow to the oil cooler in cold weather. (photo
attached)
I am considering swapping out the standard Scat Tubing for
Silicone lined high temp Aeroduct hose. I have purchased this hose for
my OH Console to replace the hearting scat tubes. It's nice stuff! My
thinking is that this duct is much smoother and significantly less
corrugated that scat tubing which SHOULD improve airflow to the oil
cooler. The down side is that this ducting is only sold in 12 foot
lengths at $150 / 12 feet. I probably need 2 feet.
My other concept is to take two 3" tubes from the baffling (one
on each side of the engine, I prefer this symmetry) and have both of
these 3" tubes feed the oil cooler box. I don't know if I will have room
to run a 3" duct from the right side on the engine to the oil cooler
mounted in the typical location.
To further complicate things I will be using the James Cowl &
Plenum.
I would appreciate any observations on using the smooth Silicone
lined Aeroduct hose vs. Scat Tube and or comments on two 3" tubes/duct
vs. the one larger tube/duct.
Thanks,
Robin
Thinking of an RV-8A...Mental illness runs in my family.
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
________________________________
See AOL's top rated recipes
<http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004> and
easy ways to stay in shape
<http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop00030000000003>
for winter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Chris, Other's will have to chime in, especially those flying. When I
did my wing tips I used the "neutral jig" which sets the aileron neutral
position, checked and aligned the flaps to the ailerons and then set my
wing tip trailing edges to the ailerons. I believe I had the "old
version" of wing tips as they were about 3/4" longer than the aileron,
but none the less, I had to cut the upper and lower wing tip surface at
the trailing edge to pull the wing tip into alignment with the aileron.
I used a long straight edge to align the wing tip to the aileron and
used it as a clamping jig while the resin dried. I remeber cutting
about 3" forward from the trailing edge to give the upper and lower tip
skin some compliance so I could easily align it with the aileron.
When I was done it came out swell.
Here's a picture when it was all done.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil canning. |
| From: | "johngoodman" <johngoodman(at)earthlink.net> |
JOhn,
You got my attention. I'll be closing up my QB wings in a week or two and I've
noticed a little "slop" in the open ribs, especially in the middle, when I tried
to precut the pitot mount hole. I'm guessing about two bays outside the last
inspection port, right?
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152605#152605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> |
I would get it all in the wing rack and get the flaps installed
so they're all the way retracted, and then align the ailerons
to them and then mount the wingtip so it aligns with the flaps
and ailerons. That way when you're in cruise it's all lined
up nicely. If you just did it rough now, chances are it won't
be aligned well later and you may end up with the famous
"droopy aileron" syndrome have to deal with that later.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
Chris Hukill wrote:
> I'm about to fit the wingtips to the wing, and I need to determine the
> neutral aileron position to align and trim the length of the trailing
> edge of the tip with the aileron. Does the neutral position that is set
> with the rigging of the wing bellcrank give a true neutral, or does the
> aileron need to be set to trail with the flap for a accurate neutral
> position? On the RV8, I had to wait until the wing was mounted to the
> fuselage, install the flaps and rig to full up, then adjust the aileron
> trail to the flap trail to get a true neutral. Am I better off waiting
> until this scenario on the 10 as well?
>
> Chris Hukill
> (what, more fiberglass!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Here's one more wingtip picture from the alignment process.
-Bob Newman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com> |
Chris, I found one more picture. This was with the straight edge
clamped to the trailing edge of the aileron and wingtip as the resin
hardened.
-Bob Newman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
Thanks Ron,
I had completed last night the rivetting of the bottom wing skin completing
step 11, section 20-5. As I stated, I noted the large amount of oil cannin
g in the squares aft of the main spar and I stopped. This morning I removed
the rivets that are forward of the J stiffner, all the way to the spar and
the skin released with no seen tweeks.
What I am having trouble understanding is that eventhough the rib flanges h
ave been crimped, the ribs seem to be loaded with pressure and they need to
be pulled into alignment with the skin holes. These pr loads seem to be wh
at is causing the oil canning.
Studing the ribs without the skin indicates that the pulling force each rib
exerts is in the opposite direction from the direction the flange is facin
g. Where the plans have us start is the centerpoint where both rib's pullin
g forces are coming together, directed toward one another(which means loose
skin). Perhaps if I would have proceeded the skin may have gotten tighter
toward the completion of step 12, as you suggested, but I was reluctant to
proceed.
Step 11 really doesn't spell out the order too well in how to rivet the ski
n to the underlying structure. It says nothing about how to proceed forward
of the J stiffner. I presume the entire J stiffner needs to be rivetted pr
ior to moving forward toward the main spar, no clecos forward of the J stif
fner, this allows us to get our hand up under the skin to access the J stif
fner. After it is rivetted, I presume we need to cleco the remaining struct
ure closed and access the interior from the access holes.
Sorry for the long post just don't want to have to drill these rivets out a
gain.
I seems so strange building structures which have these preloads on them an
d then asking another preloaded member to cancel the other out. I seem to n
ever get over this and how we are using controlled collisions to build stru
cture. Next plane will be fiberglass.
Thanks for any suggestions other than quiting,
JOhn G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil canning. |
When you are joining adjacent skins you should trim the edge so that there
is about a .020 gap when clecoed in place; this will allow the riveted skin
to expand to fill the gap. If the skins fit tightly before riveting there
will be excess metal to oil can. You can also see the ridge where the skins
join. Addtionally you can cleco the skin every other hole and lock the skin
in place before making a second pass and finishing the job.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 6:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: oil canning.
-->
JOhn,
You got my attention. I'll be closing up my QB wings in a week or two and
I've noticed a little "slop" in the open ribs, especially in the middle,
when I tried to precut the pitot mount hole. I'm guessing about two bays
outside the last inspection port, right?
John
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152605#152605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jim(at)CombsFive.Com> |
Bob,
That is one sweet workshop!
Jim C
(40192)
===========================================================
From: "Bob-tcw" <rnewman(at)tcwtech.com>
Date: 2007/12/16 Sun PM 08:37:53 EST
Subject: Re: RV10-List: wing tip
Chris, Other's will have to chime in, especially those flying. When I did my
wing tips I used the "neutral jig" which sets the aileron neutral position,
checked and aligned the flaps to the ailerons and then set my wing tip trailing
edges to the ailerons. I believe I had the "old version" of wing tips as they
were about 3/4" longer than the aileron, but none the less, I had to cut
the upper and lower wing tip surface at the trailing edge to pull the wing tip
into alignment with the aileron. I used a long straight edge to align the
wing tip to the aileron and used it as a clamping jig while the resin dried.
I remeber cutting about 3" forward from the trailing edge to give the upper and
lower tip skin some compliance so I could easily align it with the aileron.
When I was done it came out swell.
Here's a picture when it was all done.
-Bob Newman
TCW Technologies
www.tcwtech.com
===========================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GRANSCOTT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their controlled
airspace.
Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or Bravo....
P
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JSMcGrew(at)aol.com |
Tip damage sounds a lot like prop strike. I wouldn't touch it.
-Jim
Jim "Scooter" McGrew
_http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew
In a message dated 12/17/2007 9:08:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV10-List message posted by: linn Walters
It's time to plead ignorance here! I have a good friend trying to
unload a CS prop ..... rarther cheaply. Has minor tip damage :-(
I don't know if it'll be any good on an IO-540 or not.
It's a Hartzell HC 624K-4CF Case # (hub?) 2960 and blades #s FC 7666A2
He just called and eht email was up so I decided to query and then
google Hartzell.
TIA
Linn
do not archive
_ (http://www.mit.edu/~jsmcgrew)
**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
I just got off the phone to Vans, and was told that the rig on the 10 is
to put the flaps all the way up against the hard stops at the rear spar,
which is the reflex position, then rig the aileron to trail with the
flaps, then the tip to the aileron. The bellcrank jig is used only to
center the bellcrank, not to rig the aileron. Thanks to all.
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | speckter(at)comcast.net |
This was hijacked from Van's Airforce
Gary
40274
The Twelve Days of an RV Builders Christmas
Its late. Youre behind. Your spouse is standing there tapping his or her foot because
you havent provided a Christmas list yet. You havent even started a list
because you have been busy working on your RV. (You also havent started your
Christmas shopping because your RV consumes your life but we cant help you out
of that sort of trouble!) You need help. You need a list, and you need it now!
We are here to help!
We offer here an amended version of that old holiday classic saluting the Twelve
Days of Christmas. Not having much use for calling birds or maids a milking,
and being more than a little concerned about the effects on weight and balance
of ten Lords a leaping (do they affect gross weight while in midleap?), we felt
that a more appropriate shopping list needed to be developed especially with
the builder in mind. Maybe by leaving this ditty around the house, a few last
minute presents might be generated.
In an effort to be concise in communications, we will forego the multitude of verses
leading to the final approach fixso here is the twelfth day!
On the twelfth day of Christmas,
my true love sent to me
Twelve silver clecos
leven truss head screws
Ten rolls of duct tape
Nine Scotchbright pads
Eight cans of primer
Seven nylon tie-wraps
Six hi-temp lock nuts
Five bucking bars
Four dimple dies
Three rivet sets
Two quickbuild wings
And a slow-build fuselage
Happy Holidays from Paul and Louise!
__________________
Paul F. Dye
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie" - 630+ Hours!
TMX-0360 (180 HP), Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS panel
VAF #35
EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Nassau Bay, TX
This was hijacked from Van's Airforce
Gary
40274
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/images/icons/icon10.gif" border=0>
The Twelve Days of an RV Builders Christmas
Its late. Youre behind. Your spouse is standing there
tapping his or her foot because you havent provided a Christmas list yet. You
havent even started a list because you have been busy working on your RV. (You
also havent started your Christmas shopping because your RV consumes your
life but we cant help you out of that sort of trouble!) You need help. You need
a list, and you need it now! We are here to help!
We offer here an amended
version of that old holiday classic saluting the Twelve Days of Christmas.
Not having much use for calling birds or maids a milking, and being more than
a little concerned about the effects on weight and balance of ten Lords a
leaping (do they affect gross weight while in midleap?), we felt that a more appropriate
shopping list needed to be developed especially with the builder in
mind. Maybe by leaving this ditty around the house, a few last minute presents
might be generated.
In an effort to
be co
ncise in communications, we will forego the multitude of verses leading to the
final approach fixso here is the twelfth day!
On the twelfth day of Christmas,
my true love sent to me
Twelve silver clecos
leven truss head
screws
Ten rolls of duct tape
Nine Scotchbright pads
Eight cans of
primer
Seven nylon tie-wraps
Six hi-temp lock nuts
Five bucking bars
Four dimple dies
Three rivet sets
Two quickbuild wings
And a slow-build
fuselage
Happy Holidays from Paul and Louise!
__________________
Paul F. Dye
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie" - 630+ Hours!
TMX-0360 (180 HP), Hartzell Blended Airfoil, GRT EFIS panel
VAF #35
EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Nassau Bay, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jay Brinkmeyer <jaybrinkmeyer(at)yahoo.com> |
They are a start up. History shows that you.... a) shouldn't be excited to be first
to deploy and b) don't put down a large deposit. :-)
Cheers,
Jay
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Statistical Sample |
John,
Just back from Stein putting in the SL30.............turned 125 hours.
Got pics of Dynon LOP with all 6 cylinders on our O 540 at several power
settings going to MSP and back cruising at 10000 ft.
Dean
_____________________________________________________________
We support your cause! Click now for great support hosiery!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifpk7t9LyZHBVVAuVAbNJ1
tijSXv2BPMkSCpEzXItjrLkfec/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Statistical Sample |
| From: | dougpflyrv(at)aol.com |
DEAN, WOULD LOVE TO SEE YOUR PICS AND PERFORMANCE FIGURES IF U DON'T MIND SHARING.
THANKS,
DOUG PRESTON
N372RV
-----Original Message-----
From: ddddsp1(at)juno.com <ddddsp1(at)juno.com>
Sent: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 6:31 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Statistical Sample
John,
Just back from Stein putting in the SL30.............turned 125 hours.? Got pics
of Dynon LOP with all 6 cylinders on our O 540 at several power settings going
to MSP and back cruising at 10000 ft.
?
Dean
_____________________________________________________________
We support your cause! Click now for great support hosiery!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence in class E.
On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their controlled
> airspace.
>
>
> Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or Bravo....
>
> P
>
>
> ________________________________
> See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "cjay" <cgfinney(at)yahoo.com> |
This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for traffic awareness.
You are outside of radar control or controllers are too busy to notice;
ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic (altitude, bearing, and direction)
without ATC help.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it yet. Not
cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need an EFIS/MFD that
displays it.
Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
cjay
apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence in class
E.
>
> On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their controlled
> > airspace.
> >
> >
> > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or Bravo....
> >
> > P
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA in your RV-10? |
Just a couple of comments on this. Most people I have talked to have rarely, if
ever, actually had any water in their AFS AOA. It also comes preloaded with
an RV-10 profile so while it does need to be calibrated to your specific aircraft,
it's at least useable out of the box.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: AOA in your RV-10?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the AFS system from my point of view. I
just prefer to have the probes under the wing. The hole on top is a water collection
problem, that's all (easy to put a cover on pitot tubes and LRI probes).
Cost is also a factor. However, I will say that I find most of the cockpit displays
too colorful and complex for my tastes. Too much interpretation of what
the little colored chevrons mean. That's why I like an analog dial - just like
the Navy. The red/amber/green colors originate from the chevron light indicator
that was in the carrier jets (only used for landings). The pilot only saw
(from top to bottom) an inverted red chevron, an amber circle, or a green chevron
(slow changes would show two lights). What the Navy pilot was seeing was
the same thing as the lights on the nose wheel that the LSO (Landing Signal Officer)
saw. In a simple example, he could tell if you were pulling up the nose
without power because the lights would start blinki!
ng from amber to amber/red, or red.
Since you asked, I read through the calibration process of the AFS product and
found it a little complex. Calibration is still required for any of them, but
I liked the InAir the best. Since I didn't want to cut into my QB wings to put
in Van's stall warning, the Dynon system seemed to fill all the squares - a heated
pitot, and an aural stall warning that was based on a system I knew and
trusted. I still wanted a genuine analog dial, so I also chose InAir and put it
on the other wing. The advantage of an analog dial is that I will be able to
calibrate Maneuvering, L over D max, Best Glide, Best Range, etc., and put marks
on the dial face. To give an example, the guy who always won in ACM (air combat
maneuvering - dogfighting) always kept the high g turn right on L over D
Max. Since the gauge was on the upper left of the panel, a savvy Air Force guy
could force you into right turns and take the advantage away, I'm sad to say....
John
cjay wrote:
> Hey John,
>
> The InAir (and Dynon) is a great deal cheaper than the AFS. Does the AFS AOA
have any benefits over InAir?
>
> regards,
>
> cjay
>
--------
#40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived
N711JG reserved
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152452#152452
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | dreaded oil canning lessened |
Tonight I re rivetted the bottom skin all the way to but not including the
last the ribs. I never had a problem aft of the J channel, the skin was tig
ht.
I did as suggested and removed about 1/32" to 1/16" off the edge where the
seem is joining the LE skin. This time I hop scotched each rivet, jumping f
rom rib to rib, one horizontal row at a time. I basically numberred each ve
rtical row of holes with the order I would rivet them in, doing my best to
cancel each rib's spring loaded force out. Because of the access panels and
our ability to get inside the wing, rib flanges are turned out board or in
board in pairs. I never rivetted a pair together.
It seemed to have helped but I am hoping that after I rivet the remaining t
hree out board ribs it will be even tighter as Ron suggested his did.
One thing for certain, I wish I was as proficient at rivetting on the rear
spar area, where I started as I am now. Got a few blemishes up in those are
as.
The small square faced bucking bar worked best with some heave plumbers tap
e wrapped a lot of times, overhanging the the square face by about1/8". Thi
s helps soften the blows form any miss alignment hits, no internal dammage
and it also helps sensory issue of finding your rivet and the center of the
bucking bar face. Lastly, you can push the face of the bucking bar flat ag
ains the face of the interior skin and your rivet is less likey to come com
pletely out. This make keeping the face of the BB parallel to the inside sk
in easier. Tonight I learned how to push the rivet back and forth between t
he bucking bar face and the flush set on the gun and get a real good feel f
or the pressure needed and the center of the bar face by how it rocks on th
e rivet. Interesting little tid bit of info.
The plumbers tape is the real trick
JOhn G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | OAT probe location |
Has anyone installed their OAT probe on a wing? If so, where and how?
I want to make this decision before I close my wings.
Dave Leikam
40496
N89DA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OAT probe location |
| From: | "McGANN, Ron" <ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.com> |
Hi Dave,
I mounted mine in a rubber grommet in the right wing centre inspection plat
e.
cheers,
Ron
187 Moving to the hangar !!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com on behalf of Dave Leikam
Sent: Tue 18/12/2007 16:14
Subject: RV10-List: OAT probe location
Has anyone installed their OAT probe on a wing? If so, where and how? I w
ant to make this decision before I close my wings.
Dave Leikam
40496
N89DA reserved
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William DeLacey <whd721(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AOA in your RV-10? |
Note: The Reserve Lift Indicator is calibrated by flying, stalling, landing
and adjusting the probe--flying, stalling, landing and adjusting - flying,
stalling........
However, once installed it has worked as advertised. My problem is and has
been the indicator needle. I cannot see it in the last twenty feet during
landing. My peripheral vision doesn't pick up the indicator needle( mount
ed on the Glare Shield) when I need it. This may be my problem as I am a l
ow time pilot with a high pilot load during landing.I intend to install the
AOA Sport next, I intend to mount the LED display on the Glare Shield and
monitor the color change with peripheral vision.
> From: rvbuilder(at)sausen.net> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Date: Mon, 17 De
sen.net>> > Just a couple of comments on this. Most people I have talked to
have rarely, if ever, actually had any water in their AFS AOA. It also com
es preloaded with an RV-10 profile so while it does need to be calibrated t
o your specific aircraft, it's at least useable out of the box.> > Michael>
> -----Original Message-----> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [
mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman> Sent
: Saturday, December 15, 2007 7:46 PM> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com> Subject
hngoodman" > > There is absolutely nothing wrong
with the AFS system from my point of view. I just prefer to have the probe
s under the wing. The hole on top is a water collection problem, that's all
(easy to put a cover on pitot tubes and LRI probes). Cost is also a factor
. However, I will say that I find most of the cockpit displays too colorful
and complex for my tastes. Too much interpretation of what the little colo
red chevrons mean. That's why I like an analog dial - just like the Navy. T
he red/amber/green colors originate from the chevron light indicator that w
as in the carrier jets (only used for landings). The pilot only saw (from t
op to bottom) an inverted red chevron, an amber circle, or a green chevron
(slow changes would show two lights). What the Navy pilot was seeing was th
e same thing as the lights on the nose wheel that the LSO (Landing Signal O
fficer) saw. In a simple example, he could tell if you were pulling up the
nose without power because the lights would start blinki!> ng from amber to
amber/red, or red.> > Since you asked, I read through the calibration proc
ess of the AFS product and found it a little complex. Calibration is still
required for any of them, but I liked the InAir the best. Since I didn't wa
nt to cut into my QB wings to put in Van's stall warning, the Dynon system
seemed to fill all the squares - a heated pitot, and an aural stall warning
that was based on a system I knew and trusted. I still wanted a genuine an
alog dial, so I also chose InAir and put it on the other wing. The advantag
e of an analog dial is that I will be able to calibrate Maneuvering, L over
D max, Best Glide, Best Range, etc., and put marks on the dial face. To gi
ve an example, the guy who always won in ACM (air combat maneuvering - dogf
ighting) always kept the high g turn right on L over D Max. Since the gauge
was on the upper left of the panel, a savvy Air Force guy could force you
into right turns and take the advantage away, I'm sad to say....> John> > >
> cjay wrote:> > Hey John,> >> > The InAir (and Dynon) is a great deal che
aper than the AFS. Does the AFS AOA have any benefits over InAir?> >> > reg
ards,> >> > cjay> >> > > --------> #40572 QB Wings, QB Fuse arrived> N711JG
reserved> > > > > Read this topic online here:> > http://forums.matronics.
========================> _
====================> > >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Maib <dmaib(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
I have not installed mine yet, but plan to install it in the next to
most outboard panel on the left wing.
David Maib
40559
On Dec 17, 2007, at 11:44 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
Has anyone installed their OAT probe on a wing? If so, where and
how? I want to make this decision before I close my wings.
Dave Leikam
40496
N89DA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | dreaded oil canning lessened |
I don't know of the plumbers tape but I have found that the following tape
is excellent for holding rivets in place, holding small pieces of baffling
material to the bucking bars and general composite work. It does not leave a
residue and does not stick to fiberglass resin/epoxy.
http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_6090.asp?pricode=wi830
<http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_6090.asp?pricode=wi830&wcw=google>
&wcw=google
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Gonzalez
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 10:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: dreaded oil canning lessened
Tonight I re rivetted the bottom skin all the way to but not including the
last the ribs. I never had a problem aft of the J channel, the skin was
tight.
I did as suggested and removed about 1/32" to 1/16" off the edge where the
seem is joining the LE skin. This time I hop scotched each rivet, jumping
from rib to rib, one horizontal row at a time. I basically numberred each
vertical row of holes with the order I would rivet them in, doing my best to
cancel each rib's spring loaded force out. Because of the access panels and
our ability to get inside the wing, rib flanges are turned out board or in
board in pairs. I never rivetted a pair together.
It seemed to have helped but I am hoping that after I rivet the remaining
three out board ribs it will be even tighter as Ron suggested his did.
One thing for certain, I wish I was as proficient at rivetting on the rear
spar area, where I started as I am now. Got a few blemishes up in those
areas.
The small square faced bucking bar worked best with some heave plumbers tape
wrapped a lot of times, overhanging the the square face by about1/8". This
helps soften the blows form any miss alignment hits, no internal dammage and
it also helps sensory issue of finding your rivet and the center of the
bucking bar face. Lastly, you can push the face of the bucking bar flat
agains the face of the interior skin and your rivet is less likey to come
completely out. This make keeping the face of the BB parallel to the inside
skin easier. Tonight I learned how to push the rivet back and forth between
the bucking bar face and the flush set on the gun and get a real good feel
for the pressure needed and the center of the bar face by how it rocks on
the rivet. Interesting little tid bit of info.
The plumbers tape is the real trick
JOhn G
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
> They are a start up. History shows that you.... a) shouldn't be excited to be
first to deploy and b) don't put down a large deposit.
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
>
All true. New products and companies, particularly those involved in aviation,
should always be viewed with caution -- Caveat Emptor. However, in the case
of Vertical Power, they only bill when ready to ship and they are shipping products
-- this isn't vaporware. I know because I have a VP-200 and a wiring harness
sitting in my workshop. Marc and crew have also been very responsive to
questions and requests for support.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152868#152868
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | bottom wing skin |
After reading this thread about oil canning of the OB bottom skins, I
took a good look at mine, that are clecoed on, but not yet dimpled. I
see considerable oil canning, and the forward edge of the skin is tight
against the forward skin and actually overlapping it slightly in some
areas. I obviously need to trim some off the aft skin, but short of
blazing away with a file, I wonder if anyone knows a way to remove this
material and leave a smooth, strait edge.
I have not put a preload bend in the skin as you would with an
overlapping skin, but I wonder if that would shrink it as well? The
plans don't instruct you to put the preload bend even on the inboard
edge where it overlaps the IB skin, but I assume that's just an
oversight? Any suggestions?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Sked <ricksked(at)embarqmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bottom wing skin |
I passed a file over then polished the leading edge and tank skins=C2-par
t of the skins until they fit against the wing skins. I also put the preloa
d bend on the skind to allow it to lay as flat as possible after they were
riveted.. My wings are in B-21 Chris if you want to take a look someday.
Rick Sked
49185
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill(at)cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 8:12:06 AM (GMT-0800) America/Los_Angeles
Subject: RV10-List: bottom wing skin
After reading this thread about oil canning of the OB bottom skins, I took
a good look at mine, that are clecoed on, but not yet dimpled. I see consid
erable oil canning, and the forward edge of the skin is tight against the f
orward skin and actually overlapping it slightly in some areas. I obviously
need to trim some off the aft skin, but short of blazing away with a file,
I wonder if anyone knows a way to remove this material and leave a smooth,
strait=C2-edge.
I have not put a preload bend in the skin as you would with an overlapping
skin, but I wonder if that would shrink it as well? The plans don't instruc
t you to put the preload bend even on the inboard edge where it overlaps th
e IB skin, but I assume that's just an oversight? Any suggestions?
==============
====
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill DeRouchey <billderou(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
I installed mine on the wing 18" outside the tip of the propeller in an inspection
plate. Drilled a small hole and sealed with Proseal, added a connector for
servicing. No issues.
Bill DeRouchey
N939SB, flying
David Maib wrote:
I have not installed mine yet, but plan to install it in the next to most outboard
panel on the left wing.
David Maib
40559
On Dec 17, 2007, at 11:44 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
Has anyone installed their OAT probe on a wing? If so, where and how? I want
to make this decision before I close my wings.
Dave Leikam
40496
N89DA reserved
http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bottom wing skin |
Chris;
Have you considered a "v" notched deburring tool? Should trim off a
couple thousandths each pass. A good fine file is probably the best .
Also, if you take a sharpie and put and run it and your finger down the
edge before you trim, it gives you a line to thin down to see how much
you took off. I'd just recommend going slow with the a file and then
rounding the edges with the v tool.
Dr Fred.
Chris Hukill wrote:
> After reading this thread about oil canning of the OB bottom skins, I
> took a good look at mine, that are clecoed on, but not yet dimpled. I
> see considerable oil canning, and the forward edge of the skin is
> tight against the forward skin and actually overlapping it slightly in
> some areas. I obviously need to trim some off the aft skin, but short
> of blazing away with a file, I wonder if anyone knows a way to remove
> this material and leave a smooth, strait edge.
> I have not put a preload bend in the skin as you would with an
> overlapping skin, but I wonder if that would shrink it as well? The
> plans don't instruct you to put the preload bend even on the inboard
> edge where it overlaps the IB skin, but I assume that's just an
> oversight? Any suggestions?
> Chris Hukill
> *
>
>
> *
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Carpenter <jeff(at)westcottpress.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bottom wing skin |
Take a long coarse file and run it lengthwise along the edge of the
skin. Finish with the file held at a 45 degree angle along the
inside and outside edges to debur.
Jeff Carpenter
40304
On Dec 18, 2007, at 8:12 AM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> After reading this thread about oil canning of the OB bottom skins,
> I took a good look at mine, that are clecoed on, but not yet
> dimpled. I see considerable oil canning, and the forward edge of
> the skin is tight against the forward skin and actually overlapping
> it slightly in some areas. I obviously need to trim some off the
> aft skin, but short of blazing away with a file, I wonder if anyone
> knows a way to remove this material and leave a smooth, strait edge.
> I have not put a preload bend in the skin as you would with an
> overlapping skin, but I wonder if that would shrink it as well? The
> plans don't instruct you to put the preload bend even on the
> inboard edge where it overlaps the IB skin, but I assume that's
> just an oversight? Any suggestions?
> Chris Hukill
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe location |
On my RV-9A I installed the OAT probe in the left inboard access
panel. It works great and it is removable for inspections and whatever.
There are a few pictures here:
http://www.my9a.com/finish15.asp#090905
Regards,
Mike Schipper
RV-10 #40576 - Fuse - www.rvten.com
0559
On Dec 17, 2007, at 11:44 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
Has anyone installed their OAT probe on a wing? If so, where and
how? I want to make this decision before I close my wings.
Dave Leikam
40496
N89DA reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | bottom wing skin |
As per taking material off the edge that joins to the LE skin, place a stra
ight edge about 1/16" above the edge and mark it with a sharpie. I used a V
ixen file and trimmed about 1/32" off. Rivetting across in horizontal rows
and moving forward as I discussd in the previous post brought the edge tig
ht with no gap.
There is a point where you can take too much material off, remember the dim
pled holes on the skin still have to line up with the countersunk holes in
the spar cap. I noticed that my skin holes were slightly forward of the the
se countersunk holes in the spar cap...so you can go to far and you won't g
ain anything, only a gap in between the skins.
I did not pre bend the skin at the inboard overlap. It layed absolutely fla
t with the inboard skin when rivetted. I don't see how this would take up a
ny slack. All the dimples still need to basically line up.
In my mind it seems that only couteracting these loaded ribs in rivetting o
rder and thinking about how an offset dimple reacts to its dimpled breather
en, is the only way to tighten the skin. The above vixen file does absolute
ly help to a limited extent.
John G.
From: cjhukill(at)cox.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: bottom
wing skinDate: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:12:06 -0800
After reading this thread about oil canning of the OB bottom skins, I took
a good look at mine, that are clecoed on, but not yet dimpled. I see consid
erable oil canning, and the forward edge of the skin is tight against the f
orward skin and actually overlapping it slightly in some areas. I obviously
need to trim some off the aft skin, but short of blazing away with a file,
I wonder if anyone knows a way to remove this material and leave a smooth,
strait edge.
I have not put a preload bend in the skin as you would with an overlapping
skin, but I wonder if that would shrink it as well? The plans don't instruc
t you to put the preload bend even on the inboard edge where it overlaps th
e IB skin, but I assume that's just an oversight? Any suggestions?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Gonzalez <indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | bottom wing skin |
Yes, remeber to de bur the inner and outer edge with your preferred method.
John G
From: cjhukill(at)cox.netTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.comSubject: RV10-List: bottom
wing skinDate: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:12:06 -0800
After reading this thread about oil canning of the OB bottom skins, I took
a good look at mine, that are clecoed on, but not yet dimpled. I see consid
erable oil canning, and the forward edge of the skin is tight against the f
orward skin and actually overlapping it slightly in some areas. I obviously
need to trim some off the aft skin, but short of blazing away with a file,
I wonder if anyone knows a way to remove this material and leave a smooth,
strait edge.
I have not put a preload bend in the skin as you would with an overlapping
skin, but I wonder if that would shrink it as well? The plans don't instruc
t you to put the preload bend even on the inboard edge where it overlaps th
e IB skin, but I assume that's just an oversight? Any suggestions?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | bottom wing skin |
use a sanding block or compositie sanding block
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hukill
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: bottom wing skin
After reading this thread about oil canning of the OB bottom skins, I took a
good look at mine, that are clecoed on, but not yet dimpled. I see
considerable oil canning, and the forward edge of the skin is tight against
the forward skin and actually overlapping it slightly in some areas. I
obviously need to trim some off the aft skin, but short of blazing away with
a file, I wonder if anyone knows a way to remove this material and leave a
smooth, strait edge.
I have not put a preload bend in the skin as you would with an overlapping
skin, but I wonder if that would shrink it as well? The plans don't instruct
you to put the preload bend even on the inboard edge where it overlaps the
IB skin, but I assume that's just an oversight? Any suggestions?
Chris Hukill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Weyant" <chuck(at)chuckdirect.com> |
| Subject: | Strobe and Antenna Wire in Same Conduit |
Has anyone run their Strobe wire and Antenna wire in the same conduit?
Results?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box? |
| From: | "Chris Johnston" <CJohnston(at)popsound.com> |
Hey all -
I was monkeying around with the install of my LSE ignition box and in
the instructions it says:
On 6-cylinder systems, cooling air should be supplied to the box via the
cooling port on the 15-pin connector side of the ignition module. For
6-cyl. systems that do not have a cooling port, contact LSE for this
modification. Cooling is not required for 4-cyl. systems.
I'm wondering how others routed cooling air into this small (3/8" ish)
tube on the side of the unit? any suggestions?
Thanks!
cj
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MauleDriver <MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bottom wing skin |
Chris Hukill wrote:
> snippety snip... I obviously need to trim some off the aft skin, but
> short of blazing away with a file, I wonder if anyone knows a way to
> remove this material and leave a smooth, strait edge....
A word in general about filing skin edges. I know that I didn't have a
clue as to how to easily and quickly file down a skin edge using a file,
particularly a Vixen file (whatever that is). Perhaps everyone else
knows what they are talking about but I think a lot is taken for granted
here. I still am not sure I understand how to properly use a file on a
skin edge but someone took the time to explain via email and the
technique I ended up using really works easily and quickly so I assume
it may be close to the accepted and proper technique.
I place the sheet on a table with the edge overhanging slightly and use
a clamp or two or hold in place. Using a Vixen file from one of the
tool houses, I lay the face of the file on the skin edge. I hold the
file with one hand on the handle and one hand holding the tip. the
length of the file is laid along the skin edge but at a slight angle
(15 degrees maybe) so that my hands don't contact the sheet. Then a
single, smooth stroke from one end to the other. If everything is held
steady, a nice clean cut is made with a significant amount of aluminum
removed. 1,2,or 3 strokes is enough to smooth most edges. Removal of
1/32" may only take 3 or 4 strokes (a wild ass guesstimate since I
haven't measured before - John's technique for measuring sounds correct
to me). Very little dressing is required afterwards to completely
deburr the edge. An edge trimmer will work, or scotchbrite or abrasive
paper for final dressing.
My guess is that just about everyone commenting here knows how to do
this but I know I didn't have a clue until someone clued me in. If
someone wants a photo, send me an email.
Bill "lifetime modeler, woodworker, wing profiler and tinkerer that is
still learning to use basic hand tools while thinking about doing the
QB skins" Watson
Durham NC
40605
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com> |
| Subject: | Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
(Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've heard of
the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff. Simple
Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such a range
of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
Gerry
http://www.n747wg.com
(Haven't opened the box yet.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and
are working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
Washington, DC.
Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
"Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance
system than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a time.
Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
traffic awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers are
too busy to notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic
(altitude, bearing, and direction) without ATC help.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it
yet. Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need
an EFIS/MFD that displays it.
Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
cjay
apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
in class E.
>
> On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
controlled
> > airspace.
> >
> >
> > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
Bravo....
> >
> > P
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
winter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Collision avoidance |
| From: | John Jessen <n212pj(at)gmail.com> |
Speaking of the Zaon to the 496..... Anyone tried this yet? Is the
resultant inset readable? I am seriously considering doing this, but only
if I don't have to spend too much heads down time trying to read a tiny
inset screen. Any experiences?
John J
40328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and are
working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through Washington,
DC.
Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
"Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance system
than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a time.
Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for traffic
awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers are too busy to
notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic (altitude, bearing,
and direction) without ATC help.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it yet.
Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need an
EFIS/MFD that displays it.
Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
cjay
apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
in class E.
>
> On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
controlled
> > airspace.
> >
> >
> > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
Bravo....
> >
> > P
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
winter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
The methodology from the FED and the FAA is to transfer the
infrastructure cost from an aging, (expensive to maintain) radar based
IFR ATC system to one where the main cost is the components that are
funded by the direct user in the aircraft in the ATC system. RSVM and
Mode S were two such maneuvers.
Awaiting Sen Lott's replacement to give direction to FAA funding after
the first of the new year. Then 12 months before everything goes Topsy
with the new 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue habitant. Would love to see a $3K
box as an alternative to the GDL-90. You all built rack mounts for
those, Right?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and
are working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
Washington, DC.
Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
"Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance
system than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a time.
Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
traffic awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers are
too busy to notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic
(altitude, bearing, and direction) without ATC help.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it
yet. Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need
an EFIS/MFD that displays it.
Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
cjay
apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
in class E.
>
> On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
controlled
> > airspace.
> >
> >
> > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
Bravo....
> >
> > P
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
winter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Collision avoidance |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Query Bruce Radke on his Zaon.
John C
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Collision avoidance
Speaking of the Zaon to the 496..... Anyone tried this yet? Is the
resultant inset readable? I am seriously considering doing this, but
only
if I don't have to spend too much heads down time trying to read a tiny
inset screen. Any experiences?
John J
40328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and
are
working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
Washington,
DC.
Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
"Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance
system
than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a time.
Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
traffic
awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers are too busy
to
notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic (altitude,
bearing,
and direction) without ATC help.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it
yet.
Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need an
EFIS/MFD that displays it.
Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
cjay
apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
in class E.
>
> On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
controlled
> > airspace.
> >
> >
> > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
Bravo....
> >
> > P
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
winter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Collision avoidance |
I bought the XRX; it arrives tomorrow. I did learn that , for me, it will be
a standalone unit. To use and see on the GRT screen a serial port IN/OUT is
required. It must be operating at 56KB. On my Sport EFISs, I don't have one
to spare. I will advise the group after a couple of weeks of flying. The MRX
and XRX will sit together on the glare shield of the Glastar. Only the XRX
will sit atop the 10 panel. If they ever provide traffic to the Cheltons I
may have traffic on them.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 3:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Collision avoidance
Speaking of the Zaon to the 496..... Anyone tried this yet? Is the
resultant inset readable? I am seriously considering doing this, but only
if I don't have to spend too much heads down time trying to read a tiny
inset screen. Any experiences?
John J
40328
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and are
working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through Washington,
DC.
Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
"Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance system
than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a time.
Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for traffic
awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers are too busy to
notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic (altitude, bearing,
and direction) without ATC help.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it yet.
Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need an
EFIS/MFD that displays it.
Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
cjay
apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
in class E.
>
> On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
controlled
> > airspace.
> >
> >
> > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
Bravo....
> >
> > P
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
winter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
will solve the rack mount when the need arises. My 30 years in the computer
business (prior to retirement) always showed that a smaller, less expensive
, more capable solution was due out next year. And it was (except when
involving the Feds or FAA). But waiting for that meant I go without now.
Perhaps the XRX only solves 90% of the possible traffic problem (transponder
equipped and operating), my eyeballs and ATC radar (operating IFR) will have
to do the remainder. After that we depend on the probability of two aircraft
not operating in the same ocean of air at the same location and same time.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
The methodology from the FED and the FAA is to transfer the infrastructure
cost from an aging, (expensive to maintain) radar based IFR ATC system to
one where the main cost is the components that are funded by the direct user
in the aircraft in the ATC system. RSVM and Mode S were two such
maneuvers.
Awaiting Sen Lott's replacement to give direction to FAA funding after the
first of the new year. Then 12 months before everything goes Topsy with the
new 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue habitant. Would love to see a $3K box as an
alternative to the GDL-90. You all built rack mounts for those, Right?
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John W. Cox
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and are
working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through Washington,
DC.
Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
"Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance system
than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a time.
Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for traffic
awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers are too busy to
notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic (altitude, bearing,
and direction) without ATC help.
Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it yet.
Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need an
EFIS/MFD that displays it.
Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
cjay
apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
in class E.
>
> On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
controlled
> > airspace.
> >
> >
> > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
Bravo....
> >
> > P
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
winter.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Ackerman <johnag5b(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Solvents. Was:Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
> Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've
> heard of
> the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff...
Generally, organic solvents are to be treated with considerable
respect. i.e. Don't breathe them. Don't get them on your skin. Some
are _relatively_ innocuous, like ethanol. Some are downright
dangerous, like benzene, acetonitrile, and a whole long list of
others. However, _as_organic_solvents_go_, Stoddard solvent does not
strike me as too bad. It's a lot like naphtha paint thinner, but it
evaporates and flashes (catches fire) at a higher temperature and
hence is much safer to use inside buildings. Chemically, it's a
mixture of relatively non-reactive hydrocarbons. Ten to twenty
percent of those hydrocarbons are aromatic (related to benzene and
toluene, etc.), though, and that might reasonably cause some worry,
especially about increasing the likelihood of contracting cancer. A
quick and superficial Google search shows up several sites that
appear to say there's no evidence for increased cancer risk due to
Stoddard solvent exposure. Maybe. caveat emptor. Because of fire
danger, it's a whole lot safer than using gasoline; similar to
kerosene, I'd say. On the whole, it's good stuff, used properly.
If we use solvents, (and, practically speaking, we must) we need each
to set our own standards for exposure limits.
There are OSHA limits that are useful in assessing comparative
toxicity, but who can measure 1 ppm of something in the shop air? Not
me!
Flammability is pretty well known for most solvents. Your insurance
company probably won't approve of most of them for fire reasons.
As a used-to-be chemist, and a cancer survivor (probably caused by
solvents, so they thought at the time) here are some personal
standards. YMMV. It's worth your effort to establish your own. I'm
not suggesting these are even acceptable. Disclaim, disclaim. I have
no connection to anybody selling solvents except to occasionally buy
some at the hardware store.
1. Use gloves every time you handle solvents, except maybe a quick
alcohol wipe. That's triple true for epoxy work. I prefer nitrile
gloves because they slow down most solvents better than other kinds
of gloves that let you retain some finger sensitivity and dexterity.
I think latex is next to useless against the solvents we use.
2. Don't use acetone, MEK, oil and grease remover or lacquer thinner
indoors if you can help it. If you must spray paint indoors, open the
garage doors. Outdoors, keep your snoot away from the vapors and your
skin away from the liquids.
3. _Do not_use gasoline as a solvent indoors, and only very
reluctantly outdoors. Get some Stoddard solvent if you're tempted to
use gasoline. Acetone is a serious fire hazard to, as are many
organic solvents.
4. A well-fitted (yes, fitted) respirator with a fresh activated
carbon cartridge is very good at cutting solvent exposure, but
completely impractical for me because of the difficulty of knowing
the cartridge is effective. I have a supplied-air respirator which
is much more practical and probably more effective, used correctly. I
seldom use either.
5. Wipe up spills immediately, and put solvent-wetted paper towels
where you don't breathe the vapors - outside mostly, sometimes in a
closed container.
Others have posted about Simple Green- the danger in the ordinary
kind is that it contains a chemical base, and will thus expose
aluminum to attack by dissolving its protective oxide layer. Even
painted aluminum will have cracks in the paint, and liquids will
pretty much all wick into cracks and crevices to do their nasty deeds
and will be reluctant to come back out. The reformulated stuff is
allegedly free of the problem.
On Dec 18, 2007, at 3:35 PM, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> (Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
>
> Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've
> heard of
> the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff.
> Simple
> Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such
> a range
> of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
>
> Gerry
> http://www.n747wg.com
> (Haven't opened the box yet.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Wow! You are at the Empacone and you have alredy purchased a VP-200. I wish I
had such confidence in ANY piece of avionics. I'm at the Fuselage/Finish/Firewall
Forward AND panel wiring and I know that I'm gonna install a GNS-430W but
I still haven't ordered it yet. I guess you plan to build really fast.
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
-------- Original Message --------
> All true. New products and companies, particularly those involved in aviation,
should always be viewed with caution -- Caveat Emptor. However, in the case
of Vertical Power, they only bill when ready to ship and they are shipping products
-- this isn't vaporware. I know because I have a VP-200 and a wiring
harness sitting in my workshop. Marc and crew have also been very responsive to
questions and requests for support.
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box? |
| From: | "zackrv8" <zackrv8(at)verizon.net> |
CJ,
I bought a 3 port blower fan from Stein. I will use the other ports for the
Avionics LRU's and one for the Lightspeed.
Zack
--------
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153020#153020
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "William Curtis" <wcurtis(at)nerv10.com> |
Since there is nothing proprietary about ADS-B, how does "Oregon based Garmin"
have a "stranglehold?"
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't matter and those
who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and
> are working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
> Washington, DC.
>
> Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
> "Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance
> system than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a time.
> Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
>
>
> This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
> traffic awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers are
> too busy to notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic
> (altitude, bearing, and direction) without ATC help.
>
> Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it
> yet. Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you need
> an EFIS/MFD that displays it.
>
> Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
>
> cjay
>
>
> apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
> in class E.
> >
> > On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
> controlled
> > > airspace.
> > >
> > >
> > > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
> Bravo....
> > >
> > > P
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
> winter.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
What about good old Windex or 409? I do not know if either of these would
hurt AL however. They are both good, mild grease cutters.
Dave Leikam
40496
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:35 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ?
>
> (Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
>
> Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've heard
> of
> the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff. Simple
> Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such a
> range
> of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
>
> Gerry
> http://www.n747wg.com
> (Haven't opened the box yet.)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
Windex contains ammonia, which is bad for aircraft and plexi. IIRC 409
also is corrosive.
On Dec 18, 2007 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>
> What about good old Windex or 409? I do not know if either of these would
> hurt AL however. They are both good, mild grease cutters.
>
> Dave Leikam
> 40496
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
> To:
>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:35 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ?
>
>
> >
> > (Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
> >
> > Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've heard
> > of
> > the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff. Simple
> > Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such a
> > range
> > of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
> >
> > Gerry
> > http://www.n747wg.com
> > (Haven't opened the box yet.)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DejaVu" <wvu(at)ameritel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
Joe Zac suggested WD-40 sometime back. Works great.
Anh
N591VU-115hrs
In the middile of Condition Inspection
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:23 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ?
>
>
> Windex contains ammonia, which is bad for aircraft and plexi. IIRC 409
> also is corrosive.
>
> On Dec 18, 2007 8:53 PM, Dave Leikam wrote:
>>
>> What about good old Windex or 409? I do not know if either of these
>> would
>> hurt AL however. They are both good, mild grease cutters.
>>
>> Dave Leikam
>> 40496
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf(at)gerf.com>
>> To:
>>
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:35 PM
>> Subject: RV10-List: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ?
>>
>>
>> >
>> > (Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
>> >
>> > Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've
>> > heard
>> > of
>> > the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff. Simple
>> > Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such a
>> > range
>> > of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
>> >
>> > Gerry
>> > http://www.n747wg.com
>> > (Haven't opened the box yet.)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
Use Goop. The hand cleaner they sell at WallMart. The white color can.
Have used it on my 6 for 10+ years without any ill effects. I figure
if it is good enough for your hands, it is good enough for aluminum.
Rob.
On Dec 18, 2007, at 5:35 PM, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> (Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
>
> Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've
> heard of
> the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff.
> Simple
> Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such
> a range
> of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
>
> Gerry
> http://www.n747wg.com
> (Haven't opened the box yet.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Well, yes and no. I'm not usually one for bleeding edge technology, but I'm confident
in this product. Call me crazy. I was actually on a really good build
pace, but had a little detour through Iraq that basically shut me down for a
year. Anyway, I had the extra cash available so I went ahead and made the purchase
as a welcome home present to myself. Now for the rest of my avionics,
I'm like you, I won't commit until I'm actually getting close to being ready to
work on the panel. I seem to change my mind daily as to what I'd like to have
and what my budget can support. [Wink] Seriously, I have settled on a baseline
panel (see attachment) and now I'm just evaluating the new products that
come out to see if they warrant supplanting what I've already chosen.
Cheers!
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153067#153067
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/grt_panel_18_dec_07_550.doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box? |
| From: | "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey(at)baesystems.com> |
Chris,
I made an adapter to reduce the standard 5/8" cooling tube down to 3/8
out of some sort of poly tubing that I found at a home improvement
store. Seemed to work pretty well.
Bob
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Johnston
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:47 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box?
Hey all -
I was monkeying around with the install of my LSE ignition box and in
the instructions it says:
On 6-cylinder systems, cooling air should be supplied to the box via the
cooling port on the 15-pin connector side of the ignition module. For
6-cyl. systems that do not have a cooling port, contact LSE for this
modification. Cooling is not required for 4-cyl. systems.
I'm wondering how others routed cooling air into this small (3/8" ish)
tube on the side of the unit? any suggestions?
Thanks!
cj
www.perfectlygoodairplane.net <http://www.perfectlygoodairplane.net/>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
Todd
Welcome back from Iraq. Your service is appreciated!
As far as panels go, yours is a near clone of what I have in mind. Dual GRT / VP200
/ Trutrak AP / PS Egineering / Garmin everything else.
How are you planning to mount the two boxes over the tunnel? I have contemplated
getting one of the fiberglass consoles but a also considering building something
as well.
What software are you using to layout your panel?
If you are doing your own wiring, check out the FastStack from http://www.approachfaststack.com/.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
----- Original Message -----
From: tsts4 <tsts4(at)verizon.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 5:51 am
Subject: RV10-List: Re: VP-200 Update
>
> Well, yes and no. I'm not usually one for bleeding edge
> technology, but I'm confident in this product. Call me
> crazy. I was actually on a really good build pace, but had
> a little detour through Iraq that basically shut me down for a
> year. Anyway, I had the extra cash available so I went
> ahead and made the purchase as a welcome home present to
> myself. Now for the rest of my avionics, I'm like you, I
> won't commit until I'm actually getting close to being ready to
> work on the panel. I seem to change my mind daily as to what I'd
> like to have and what my budget can support.
> [Wink] Seriously, I have settled on a baseline panel (see
> attachment) and now I'm just evaluating the new products that
> come out to see if they warrant supplanting what I've already chosen.
>
> Cheers!
>
> --------
> Todd Stovall
> 728TT (reserved)
> RV-10 Empacone
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153067#153067
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/grt_panel_18_dec_07_550.doc
>
>
>
>
> Lists This Month --
> (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)
> Click on
> _-
> = -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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| From: | Eric Parlow <ericparlow(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Console above tunnel |
Here's what I have done for the console above the tunnel
ERic--
RV-10, 40014
N104EP
How are you planning to mount the two boxes over the tunnel? I have contemp
lated getting one of the fiberglass consoles but a also considering buildin
g something as well.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: collision avoidance |
| From: | "John W. Cox" <johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com> |
Lack of viable competition creates a stranglehold for most competitors
and hence the customer. More suppliers, constant demand - better
pricing. The GDL-90 is made in Salem, Oregon.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
Since there is nothing proprietary about ADS-B, how does "Oregon based
Garmin" have a "stranglehold?"
William
http://wcurtis.nerv10.com/
"Be who you are and say what you feel because those who mind don't
matter and those who matter don't mind."
-- Dr. Suess
-------- Original Message --------
>
> The ADS-B transmitters were turned on in Salem, Oregon last Monday and
> are working in several eastern seaboard states from Florida through
> Washington, DC.
>
> Someone needs to break the stranglehold on Oregon based Garmin so that
> "Supply and Demand" makes this a more common of a collision avoidance
> system than $7K. The EFIS solution is being solved one RV-10 at a
time.
> Till then, some are using ZAON patched to their GPS screen.
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjay
> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:29 PM
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: collision avoidance
>
>
> This is a scenario where you would be hard pressed to beat ADS-B for
> traffic awareness. You are outside of radar control or controllers
are
> too busy to notice; ADS-B would give you a clear picture of traffic
> (altitude, bearing, and direction) without ATC help.
>
> Unfortunately, most people don't understand it, and no one is using it
> yet. Not cheap enough yet either, the GDL-90 is about $7K and you
need
> an EFIS/MFD that displays it.
>
> Also, ground station coverage is only on the east coast right now.
>
> cjay
>
>
> apilot2(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > And on one of the occasions he said he was above the class D...hence
> in class E.
> >
> > On Dec 17, 2007 6:54 AM, wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/16/2007 1:30:04 PM Central Standard Time,
> > > pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> > > Playing Devils Advocate here ...... you were outside of their
> controlled
> > > airspace.
> > >
> > >
> > > Class D is advisory for traffic not control as in Class Alpha or
> Bravo....
> > >
> > > P
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for
> winter.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152823#152823
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Kearney <kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | RE: Console above tunnel |
Hi Eric
You tunnel mod looks brilliant! Thanks for the pxi and the ideas.
One of the small complaints I heard at KOSH about consoles was that they
could restrict travel of the stick because your leg gets in the way (the
console doesn't allow your leg to move out of the way).
Have you sat in your plane to check range of movement of the stick?
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40643
C-GCWZ (reserved)
_____
From: Eric Parlow [mailto:ericparlow(at)hotmail.com]
Sent: December-19-07 9:14 AM
Cc: kearney(at)shaw.ca
Subject: Console above tunnel
Here's what I have done for the console above the tunnel
ERic--
RV-10, 40014
N104EP
_____
How are you planning to mount the two boxes over the tunnel? I have
contemplated getting one of the fiberglass consoles but a also considering
building something as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Williams, M.D." <drfred(at)suddenlinkmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling tube on lightspeed ignition box? |
zackrv8 wrote:
Zack:
I'm getting ready to start assembly of the panel and associated boxes.
Any chance you could take a pic of your installation? Trying to get
placement of items solidified in my mind.
Thanks
Fred
40515. On the gear, starting wheel pants.
>
> CJ,
>
> I bought a 3 port blower fan from Stein. I will use the other ports for the
Avionics LRU's and one for the Lightspeed.
>
> Zack
>
> --------
> RV8 #80125
> RV10 # 40512
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153020#153020
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ddddsp1(at)juno.com" <ddddsp1(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | RV10 Winter Flying |
Just posted on VAF data from recent flight to SteinAir for those request
ing. Pics show Dynon Lean Mode and all cylinders LOP on O-540.
DEAN
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
| From: | "tsts4" <tsts4(at)verizon.net> |
Les,
I'm going to go with a center console from Accuracy Avionics. I'm also going with
their overhead console as well, with NACA vents in the rear to feed the air
vents.
A far as panel layouts, I've been using ePanel Builder online and Accuracy's 3D
panel wizard. Right now these suffice for the rough order of magnitude that
I'm dealing with at this stage.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=153115#153115
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirk&Laura Groves <groves(at)epix.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Favorite greasy belly cleaner ? |
Good old WD-40
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 18, 2007, at 5:35 PM, "Gerry Filby" wrote:
>
> (Its a little off topic since it relates to my RV-9)
>
> Do you guys have a favorite cleaner for the "greasy belly" ? I've
> heard of
> the Stoddard cleaner which is supposed to be pretty evil stuff.
> Simple
> Green apparently has issues if used on bare aluminum. There's such
> a range
> of products on Spruce that I don't know where to start ...
>
> Gerry
> http://www.n747wg.com
> (Haven't opened the box yet.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LES KEARNEY <Kearney(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: VP-200 Update |
Hi Todd
December 11, 2007 - - - - , 20-
RV10-Archive.digest.vol-cw